diff --git a/resources/LICENSE b/resources/LICENSE deleted file mode 100644 index fdddb29aa..000000000 --- a/resources/LICENSE +++ /dev/null @@ -1,24 +0,0 @@ -This is free and unencumbered software released into the public domain. - -Anyone is free to copy, modify, publish, use, compile, sell, or -distribute this software, either in source code form or as a compiled -binary, for any purpose, commercial or non-commercial, and by any -means. - -In jurisdictions that recognize copyright laws, the author or authors -of this software dedicate any and all copyright interest in the -software to the public domain. We make this dedication for the benefit -of the public at large and to the detriment of our heirs and -successors. We intend this dedication to be an overt act of -relinquishment in perpetuity of all present and future rights to this -software under copyright law. - -THE SOFTWARE IS PROVIDED "AS IS", WITHOUT WARRANTY OF ANY KIND, -EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO THE WARRANTIES OF -MERCHANTABILITY, FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE AND NONINFRINGEMENT. -IN NO EVENT SHALL THE AUTHORS BE LIABLE FOR ANY CLAIM, DAMAGES OR -OTHER LIABILITY, WHETHER IN AN ACTION OF CONTRACT, TORT OR OTHERWISE, -ARISING FROM, OUT OF OR IN CONNECTION WITH THE SOFTWARE OR THE USE OR -OTHER DEALINGS IN THE SOFTWARE. - -For more information, please refer to diff --git a/resources/README.md b/resources/README.md deleted file mode 100644 index c229a7438..000000000 --- a/resources/README.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,28 +0,0 @@ -# osr-resources -OSR resources, library, books, ... - -### Installation - -1. Install [GIT LFS](https://git-lfs.github.com/) 'GIT LFS' enables large files over 50MB. -2. clone repo - -``` -git clone https://gitlab.com/plastichub/osr-resources -``` - -3. In case files are not expanded, run - -``` -git lfs pull -``` - -#### Notes - -- this is CC, we do mine, extract and display data sometime with a special PDF viewer - - -### Tools - -- [ISO (286) fit calculator](https://www.mesys.ch/calc/tolerances.fcgi?lang=en) | [Another Calculator](https://amesweb.info/fits-tolerances/tolerance-calculator.aspx) - - diff --git a/resources/ai/fun/add-students.png b/resources/ai/fun/add-students.png deleted file mode 100644 index 3a66905b4..000000000 --- a/resources/ai/fun/add-students.png +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -version https://git-lfs.github.com/spec/v1 -oid sha256:5f434d62a59d6edcddf4f2d129843ce02caedd9cad36b42b01fc172c10e82c01 -size 1692044 diff --git a/resources/ai/fun/makeit-bigger.png b/resources/ai/fun/makeit-bigger.png deleted file mode 100644 index f8e174a95..000000000 --- a/resources/ai/fun/makeit-bigger.png +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -version https://git-lfs.github.com/spec/v1 -oid sha256:57a5ba044bdef8fb97b52305054b12b40125098bd232756b28820aa7e39d220f -size 2604583 diff --git a/resources/ai/fun/there are no stupid questions.png b/resources/ai/fun/there are no stupid questions.png deleted file mode 100644 index d95b453df..000000000 --- a/resources/ai/fun/there are no stupid questions.png +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -version https://git-lfs.github.com/spec/v1 -oid sha256:ed3b27b87b474c0d109d00bf5a3f023011aefb2f678992076c0bce1fcdae6ddd -size 1785043 diff --git a/resources/articles/africa/Draft SUP Bill 2021.pdf b/resources/articles/africa/Draft SUP Bill 2021.pdf deleted file mode 100644 index df368df1c..000000000 --- a/resources/articles/africa/Draft SUP Bill 2021.pdf +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -version https://git-lfs.github.com/spec/v1 -oid sha256:098b8f78a20baefdad8baba14c5b83cdd4bc2d5650379ab09549a093c9fec0a7 -size 227770 diff --git a/resources/articles/africa/Updated SUP Report 2023 final 130423-12_1.jpg b/resources/articles/africa/Updated SUP Report 2023 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-Policies, Regulations and Laws that Address the
-Harmful Effects of Single-Use Plastics in the East
-African Community
-April 2023
-
-CONTENT
-INTRODUCTION
-COUNTRY CONTEXT
-Rwanda
Kenya
Tanzania
Uganda
Burundi
South Sudan
Democratic Republic of Congo
-REGIONAL CONTEXT
-East African Community (EAC)
Economic Community of West African States (ECOWAS)
-Southern African Development Community (SADC)
-African Union (AU)
European Union (EU)
-INTERNATIONAL CONTEXT
-Existing International Legal Frameworks Governing Plastic Pollution
-Non-Binding Pledges and Campaigns Around Plastic Pollution
-CONCLUSION AND RECOMMENDATIONS
AUTHORS AND CONTRIBUTORS
-State of Affairs: Policies, Regulations and Laws that Address the Harmful Effects of Single-Use Plastics
-in the East African Community (2023)
-2
-
-INTRODUCTION
-Single-use plastics ("SUPs") have permeated every aspect of our consumer-based society.
-SUPs, often referred to as disposable plastics, are commonly used for packaging and
include items intended to be used only once before they are thrown away, such as grocery
bags, food containers and wrapping, bottles, straws, cigarette butts, cups, and cutlery.
-As the quality and properties of most SUPs are
poor, they are difficult to recycle and/or reuse
and they therefore lack significant monetary
value which leads to their [irresponsible]
disposal.
-Notably, half of the plastic produced global y is
designed to be used once and thrown away, and
every year, we throw away a staggering 300
mil ion tonnes according to the United Nations1;
which is nearly equivalent to the weight of the
entire human population.
-These products will take tens if not hundreds of years to degrade and over time they
will have a harmful impact upon the environment, our health, and our economy.
-Harmful Effects of Plastic Pollution
When irresponsibly disposed of, SUPs make their way into the environment where they
block water channels, harm biodiversity, clog drains (causing flooding), and intensify soil
degradation.
-1 UNEP - Beat Pol ution
-State of Affairs: Policies, Regulations and Laws that Address the Harmful Effects of Single-Use Plastics
-in the East African Community (2023)
-3
-
-
-When buried (such as in landfil s), they leech dangerous chemicals which pol ute
groundwater and soil2. When burned (such as in open pits), they emit harmful gases which
have been linked to various diseases such as asthma, cancer, and heart disease3.
-Left exposed, they slowly break down via sun, water, and erosion into smal er particles
known as microplastics, which have been found to enter the air we breathe, the water we
drink, and the food we eat, and consequently the human body. It, therefore, comes as no
surprise that a recent study found the presence of microplastics in human placenta4.
-The impact of plastic pollution on the health, safety and livelihoods of communities
and our environment is catastrophic and expensive - there are significant costs
associated with hospital bil s, environmental cleanups, and repairs of damaged
infrastructure. And we are stil learning just how far-reaching the damage is.
-SUP Regulation in East African Community
-While the data on the extent of plastic pol ution
across the African continent is stil limited, a
significant proportion of African countries have
passed legislation (34 out of 54 African countries)
banning certain SUPs, with varying levels of
implementation5,6.
-These actions are notable, considering that
legislation is a vital instrument in protecting the
rights of citizens, regulating production, and
assigning responsibility.
-2 Plastic planet: How tiny plastic particles are pol uting our soil
3 Plastic bag bans can help reduce toxic fumes
4 Plasticenta: First evidence of microplastics in human placenta
5 34 Plastic Bans in Africa: A Reality Check
6 Overview of Legal and Policy Framework Approaches for Plastic Bag Waste Management in African
Countries
-State of Affairs: Policies, Regulations and Laws that Address the Harmful Effects of Single-Use Plastics
-in the East African Community (2023)
-4
-
-The East African Community (the "EAC"), whose member states are Burundi, Kenya,
Rwanda, South Sudan, Tanzania, Uganda and the Democratic Republic of Congo have each
taken legislative action in relation to certain SUP items (mainly plastic bags) in order to
reduce the detrimental effects of plastic litter.
-Challenges in Relation to Adherence and the Enforcement of Legislation
-While positive legislative steps have been taken across the EAC to address SUPs, and
should be praised, there is both complexity around the application of policy
frameworks as well as inconsistent enforcement of the bans across member states.
-Identified impediments to the adherence and enforcement of legislation include:
- unclear policy frameworks;
a lack of detailed guidelines on SUPs;
a resistance to the implementation of legislation, which can itself be attributed to a
-lack of (i) awareness amongst the public; (i ) financial incentives that encourage
businesses to shift towards alternatives; (i i) col aboration between policy makers
and key stakeholders as part of the implementation process,
- poor regulatory enforcement;
cross-border smuggling of banned items;
a lack of available, affordable, and accessible alternatives to SUPs; and
limited reporting on the successes and chal enges of such legislation.
-These significant gaps should be used as a basis to inform and encourage governments,
citizens, civil society and businesses to col ectively engage and take tangible action towards
harmonising policies and implementation as wel as catalysing innovation.
-Steps Taken at the EAC and the International Community to Address Plastic Pollution
-As we elevate discussion on legislation, it is critical to note that plastic pol ution knows no
borders. Discarded waste plastic is carried across our oceans, seas and lakes, from country
to country, blown by one gust of wind from one region to another. That is why it is
-State of Affairs: Policies, Regulations and Laws that Address the Harmful Effects of Single-Use Plastics
-in the East African Community (2023)
-5
-
-important to not only consider the actions of individual member states in the EAC, but to
push for collaborative and coordinated action in order to achieve full success in
tackling plastic pollution.
-At a regional level at the EAC, there is existing legislation in relation to environment and
natural resources management, pursuant to which EAC members are required to
cooperate and coordinate policies and actions for the protection and conservation of
natural resources and the environment against al forms of degradation and pol ution
arising from developmental activities.
-On this basis, the EAC has come together to pass the Polythene Material Controls Bil , and
despite its slow adoption by the member states, there is potential for increased
environmental leadership by the EAC, in particular to address the proliferation of SUPs and
to align policies and strategies for plastic waste management across al member states.
-But East Africa is just one region among many - most of whom contribute more significantly
to the growing tide of pol ution. This is why discussions around global frameworks and
treaties have become more common when talking about tackling plastic pol ution7.
-According to the Guardian8, "the UN environment assembly (UNEA), which set up the ad
hoc working group (AHEG) on marine plastics in 2017, concluded that the existing
international legal framework governing plastic pol ution, including the Stockholm and the
Basel conventions, is fragmented and ineffective."
-But as of 2023, 175 countries adopted a historic UN resolution `End plastic pol ution:
towards an international legal y binding' instrument to think about a new global
treaty to address plastic pol ution based on a comprehensive approach that
addresses the ful life cycle of plastics9.
-7 Global treaty to regulate plastic pol ution gains momentum
8 Global treaty to tackle plastic pol ution gains steam without US and UK
9 End Plastic Pol ution: towards an international legal y binding instrument
-State of Affairs: Policies, Regulations and Laws that Address the Harmful Effects of Single-Use Plastics
-in the East African Community (2023)
-6
-
-This was supported by strong civil society and citizen support who pushed for a global
legal y binding treaty, with the World Wildlife Fund's Plastics Petition attracting nearly two
mil ion signatures10.
-While this report wil not dive into global treaties, we wil provide an overview of existing
treaties, as we seek to better understand the role that they and regional legislation can play
in the fight against plastic pol ution.
-The Purpose of this Report
-Despite the chal enges in the adherence to and enforcement of legislation, momentum
across the EAC is steadily rising, with increasing awareness, scientific research, and
legislation focused on tackling SUPs and their resulting pol ution.
-This report has been put together by the Flipflopi Project, Sustainable Inclusive Business
Kenya, and Africa Legal Network (ALN), after an assessment of policies and regulations
focused on protecting the environment and/or managing SUPs, across the seven member
states of the EAC.
-The report highlights:
- legislative and regulatory frameworks that have been adopted within the EAC,
the process and progression of laws across each country,
the successes, chal enges, and lessons learned, and
an overview of other regional and global regulations and treaties.
-The purpose of this report is to support increased understanding of existing regulations
relating to SUPs as wel as provide a foundation for the adoption of streamlined legislation
and col aborative action in the EAC to regulate the production of plastics, support the
management of existing waste, and eliminate unnecessary SUPs at a regional level.
-The time is now for further affirmative action to be taken by East African
policymakers in order to preserve the health of our people, environment, and
economy.
-10 Now Is the Time for a UN Treaty on Plastic Pol ution
-State of Affairs: Policies, Regulations and Laws that Address the Harmful Effects of Single-Use Plastics
-in the East African Community (2023)
-7
-
-COUNTRY CONTEXT
-Rwanda
-Single-Use Plastic Bans
-Plastic carrier bags ban
-Came into effect in 2004 for bags of less than 60 microns. In 2008, this ban was extended to al
-polyethylene bags
-Single-Use Plastics ban
-Banned in 2019 with some exceptions.
-Relevant Government Institutions
- Rwanda Utilities Regulatory Authority
- Rwanda Bureau of Standards
- Rwanda Environment Management Authority
- Ministry of Environment
-Rwanda, was the first country in the EAC to implement a ban on plastic bags and SUPs,
acting as a catalyst for the region. The country's economic growth has been driven by a
desire to become a hub for tourism, IT, and finance - each of which is tied to environmental
discourses. This has influenced Rwanda's environmental leadership, with the government
consistently raising the plastic pol ution agenda in the EAC's parliament.
-While the 2008 polythene bag ban was introduced when there were relatively low levels of
environmental awareness among Rwandans, government initiatives such as media
campaigns (radio, TV, print) and community activities (monthly clean-ups) were created to
increase awareness on the environmental impacts of plastic bag pol ution in order to
reduce resistance to the ban.
-Another of the chal enges faced was smuggling of polythene bags from neighbouring
countries, which was tackled through strict border control and inspection, including flight
announcements on the ban.
-State of Affairs: Policies, Regulations and Laws that Address the Harmful Effects of Single-Use Plastics
-in the East African Community (2023)
-8
-
-The limited influence of plastic bag manufacturers in Rwanda is another explanation for the
speed in which the law was passed and implemented. This is especial y significant when
looking at EAC members - such as Kenya and Uganda, who had multiple attempts to
enforce plastic bag bans delayed by an influential manufacturing sector.
-In 2019, Rwanda took the historic step of banning the majority of SUPs (with some
exceptions). The ban gave local businesses three months to shift towards more sustainable
alternatives, leading to an outcry11 regarding the short notice. Factories on the other hand
have been given two years to cease production of SUPs, with this two-year period expiring
in September 2021. It remains to be seen to what extent the factories adhere to this
deadline.
-Rwanda has shown commitment to implementing the ban by rejecting the appeal by
manufacturers of SUPs to extend the grace period given to them to phase out
production of SUPs12.
-Below we will look at the policies and regulations in Rwanda that address
environmental protection and SUPs.
-Vision 2050
Vision 2050 aspires to take Rwanda beyond high income to high living standards. To drive
towards this goal, Rwanda is committed to being a nation that has a clean and healthy
environment that is resilient to climate variability and change and that supports a high
quality of life for its citizens.
-The Constitution of the Republic of Rwanda, 2003
The Constitution of Rwanda was adopted during the referendum of 26th March 2003 and
amended in 2015. It provides the binding legal framework which guided the National
Environment and Climate Change Policy, June 2019. Article 22 assures every citizen of the
right to live in a clean and healthy environment. Article 53 imposes an obligation on every
-11 Rwanda traders count losses after ban on single-use plastics
12 Rwanda: No extension of grace period for single-use plastics
-State of Affairs: Policies, Regulations and Laws that Address the Harmful Effects of Single-Use Plastics
-in the East African Community (2023)
-9
-
-person to protect, safeguard and promote the environment and further provides that the
State wil ensure the protection of the environment.
-The National Environment Policy ("NEP"), 2003
The NEP sets out objectives and fundamental principles for the management of the
environment as wel as institutional and legal reforms in order to provide the country with
a coherent and harmonious framework for the coordination of policies. The NEP also
contains policy statements and strategic options as wel as the necessary arrangements for
the implementation of the policy.
-Ministerial Order of the Minister of Lands, Environment, Forestry, Water and Mines
-relating to the manufacture, importation, trade and use of plastic bags (20 August
-2004)
The 2004 ban prohibited the manufacture, use, importation, or sale of plastic carrier bags
-under 60 microns. In 2008, this ban was extended to al polythene bags.
-Determining the Modalities of Protection, Conservation and Promotion of
Environment in Rwanda (Law No. 04/2005)
Law No. 04/2005 set out the general framework for environmental protection and
management in Rwanda. This law developed national strategies, plans and programmes
aimed at ensuring the conservation and sustainable use of the environment. Article 6 of
Law No. 04/2005 provides that every person in Rwanda has a fundamental right to live in a
healthy and balanced environment.
-Law No. 16/2006
Law No. 16/2006 of 3rd April 2006 establishes and determines the organisation,
functioning, powers and responsibilities of the Rwanda Environment Management
Authority (the "REMA"). REMA is responsible for the national environmental protection,
conservation, promotion and overal management of al matters relating to the
environment and climate change. REMA also advises the Rwandan Government on policies,
strategies and legislation related to the management of the environment.
-State of Affairs: Policies, Regulations and Laws that Address the Harmful Effects of Single-Use Plastics
-in the East African Community (2023)
-10
-
-Law No. 57/2008
The manufacturing, sale, importation, or use of polyethylene bags is prohibited, with
strong fines for manufacturers, dealers and buyers of these plastic bags13.
-However, the law al ows exceptions for polythene bags to be used for the packaging of
meat, chicken, fish and mil ed cassava leaves to facilitate their refrigeration. The law also
states that "the list shal be updated at any time where it is deemed necessary".
-Article 4 of Law No. 57/2008 makes a provision for the Prime Minister to establish a list of
-polythene bags necessary to be used in exceptional cases.
-National Strategy for Transformation ("NST1")
The NST1/Seven Years Government Program (2017 - 2024) sets the priority for a green
economy approach in its Economic Transformation pil ar that promotes "Sustainable
Management of Natural Resources and Environment to Transition Rwanda towards a
Green Economy". Moreover, environment and climate change were highlighted in NST1 as
cross-cutting areas of policy concern which can be positively impacted by a range of
development activities with priority given to agriculture, urbanisation, industries and
energy.
-National Environment and Climate Change Policy, June 2019
This Policy provides strategic direction and responses to the emerging issues and critical
chal enges in environmental management and climate change adaptation and mitigation in
Rwanda. The main policy goal is for "Rwanda to have a clean and healthy environment
resilient to climate variability and change that supports a high quality of life for its society."
-13 Law No. 57/2008
-State of Affairs: Policies, Regulations and Laws that Address the Harmful Effects of Single-Use Plastics
-in the East African Community (2023)
-11
-
-
-Flipflopi co-founder, Ali Abdal a Skanda, during the 2019 Lamu-Zanzibar Expedition | Credit:
-Flipflopi
-Law No. 17/2019
This legislation prohibits the manufacturing, importation, use and sale of plastic carry
bags and SUP items such as straws, food containers, cutlery, and bottles, with the
exception of home compostable plastic items and woven polypropylene14. It repealed
Law No. 57/2008.
-The law also outlines Extended Producer Responsibility, including an environmental levy
on imported SUPs as wel as products packaged in plastic. Furthermore, "every
manufacturer, wholesaler or retailer of plastic carry bags or single-use plastic items must
put in place mechanisms to col ect and segregate used plastic carry bags and single-use
plastic items and hand them over to the recycling plants."
-14 Law No. 17/2019
-State of Affairs: Policies, Regulations and Laws that Address the Harmful Effects of Single-Use Plastics
-in the East African Community (2023)
-12
-
-There is a transition period of three months, al owing retailers to sel off SUP items in
stock or that have been ordered. Additional y, existing factories in Rwanda that are
manufacturing prohibited items have been given two years to comply with the law.
-There also exists a document with guidelines for exemptions which provides clarity on
what is disal owed.15
-15 Guidelines on use of plastic bags
-State of Affairs: Policies, Regulations and Laws that Address the Harmful Effects of Single-Use Plastics
-in the East African Community (2023)
-13
-
-Kenya
-Single-Use Plastic Bans
-Plastic carrier bags ban
-Enacted in 2017.
-Single-Use Plastics ban
-The ban of specific SUP items came into effect in June 2020, but is restricted to protected areas.
-Relevant Government Institutions
- Ministry of Environment and Forestry
- National Environmental Management Authority
- Council of Governors - Water, Forestry and Mining Committee
- Ministry of East Africa Community and Regional Development
-Kenya's decision to implement the bans on plastic bags as wel as SUPs in protected areas
was driven by a strong civil society combined with strong political wil spurred by a need to
cement Kenya's environmental leadership in the region in order to support growth in
economic areas such as tourism.
-After multiple failed attempts to curb plastic bag pol ution through duties, standards, and
pilot projects16, the country instituted the world's strictest plastic bag ban in 2017 which has
to date achieved a success rate of 80%17. Behavioural change campaigns and civic
education were also critical in garnering public support, even as the ban faced the dual
chal enges of a lack of affordable alternatives and smuggling of the banned bags from
neighbouring countries18.
-Furthermore, Kenya's manufacturing companies have a significant and growing influence
within the country. Companies, led by the Kenya Association of Manufacturers ("KAM"),
have protested and delayed various attempts at plastic bans, citing the impact on
livelihoods.
-16 The Kenyan Ban on Plastic Bags: A study of attitudes and adaptation in Nairobi
17 2 years on: say no to plastic bags
18 How smuggling threatens to undermine Kenya's plastic bag ban
-State of Affairs: Policies, Regulations and Laws that Address the Harmful Effects of Single-Use Plastics
-in the East African Community (2023)
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-However, the private sector has made recent efforts to address plastic waste, including the
Framework of Cooperation which includes `Take Back Schemes', the Kenya Plastics Action
Plan, and the Kenya Plastics Pact.
-In 2020, the US oil and plastics industry was accused of attempting to weaken Kenya's laws
on plastics19, as part of bilateral trade talks between both countries. There was a public
outcry within Kenya with many opposed to a change in the country's strong environmental
policies, however, the outcome of the talks is yet to be seen.
-Below we will look at the policies and regulations in Kenya that address
environmental protection and SUPs.
-Environmental Management and Coordination Act, 1999 (the "EMCA")
The EMCA and its associated Waste Management Regulations 2006 is the framework law
guiding waste management in Kenya. The EMCA provides for the establishment of an
appropriate legal and institutional framework for environmental management and
conservation in Kenya. The EMCA also establishes the National Environmental
Management Authority ("NEMA") whose object and purpose is to exercise general
supervision and coordination over al matters relating to the environment and to be the
principal instrument of Government in the implementation of al policies relating to the
environment.
-Vision 2030
The country's development blueprint covers the 22-year period between 2008 and 2030.
Under the social pil ar, the blueprint highlights the need to establish waste management
systems in selected local authorities. Plastic management is also captured as a flagship
project that needs to be addressed urgently through public-private partnerships. Counties
have also al ocated substantial sums of money for waste management including
formulating bil s that mirror national policies for implementation at the local level.
-19 Big Oil accused of asking Trump administration to pressure Kenya on its strict plastics ban
-State of Affairs: Policies, Regulations and Laws that Address the Harmful Effects of Single-Use Plastics
-in the East African Community (2023)
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-Finance Budget, 2007 and Finance Bill, 2008
The 2007 Finance Budget imposed an excise duty of 120% on plastic bags of less than 30
microns. In January 2008, the Finance Bil also banned the importation and manufacture
of plastic bags of less than 30 microns.
-Constitution of Kenya (2010)
In 2010, Kenya adopted a new constitution. Article 42 assures al Kenyans a clean and
healthy environment as a human right, of course with a demand upon al Kenyans to be
responsible to safeguard this right. Article 69 requires the government to eliminate al
processes and activities that degrade the environment, while Schedule 4 devolves waste
management to counties. Both levels of government play a distinct role in tackling plastics.
The national government handles policy formulation while county governments implement
those policies in line with the provisions of the constitution.
-The National Environmental Policy 2013 (the "NEP 2013")
The main goal of the NEP 2013 is better quality of life for present and future generations
through sustainable management and use of the environment and natural resources.
-The NEP 2013 aims to provide a framework for an integrated approach to the sustainable
management of Kenya's environment and natural resources, through the use of innovative
environmental management tools such as incentives, disincentives, total economic
valuation, indicators of sustainable development, strategic environmental assessments,
environmental impact assessments, environmental audits, payment for ecosystem services
and the `pol uter pays principle". To achieve a clean and healthy environment the policy
seeks to discourage and eliminate unsustainable patterns of production and consumption
while instituting intensified awareness creation on the impacts of using non-biodegradable
materials such as SUPs.
-National Solid Waste Management Strategy, 2015
This strategy outlines the framework for better solid waste management, including plastic
waste management, across the major municipalities: Kisumu, Eldoret, Thika, Mombasa, and
Nakuru.
-State of Affairs: Policies, Regulations and Laws that Address the Harmful Effects of Single-Use Plastics
-in the East African Community (2023)
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-
-A resident of Nakuru asking the Kenyan government to ban plastic bags | Credit: James Wakibia
-Gazette Notice No. 2334 and 2356, 2017
On 28th February 2017, the Kenyan Government issued Gazette Notice No. 233420 and
235621 banning the manufacture, importation, and use of plastic carrier bags and flat
bags for commercial and household packaging. With a fine of $40,000 for anyone caught
-manufacturing, sel ing, or using the plastic bag, this is the world's strictest ban on plastic
-bags.
-20 Gazette Notice No. 2334
21 Gazette Notice No. 2356
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-The Draft Environmental Management and Coordination (Plastics Bags Control and
Management) Regulation, 201822
The objective of these regulations is to ensure a clean and healthy environment through
the prevention of pol ution caused by plastic bags and the promotion of alternative
biodegradable packaging materials. The draft regulations require every manufacturer
and importer of plastic bag packaging to propose and uphold a recycling plan to support
the col ection and recycling of plastic brought into the market.
-The plan can be developed individual y or in col aboration with other producers however
it must be submitted to NEMA for publishing and documenting previous activities and
-achievements. The draft regulations also set out a criterion for exemption which provides
that a packaging may not be eligible for exemption if it constitutes as over-packaging, or
if there exists any other feasible non-plastic alternative packaging material.
-Gazette Notice No. 485823
In 2019, Kenya's President announced a ban on SUPs in protected areas including
conservation areas, forests, beaches, national parks, national reserves and any other
designated wildlife protected areas. This ban came into effect in June 2020 through
Gazette Notice No. 4858.
-The fol owing items constitute SUPs which are the subject of the ban:
- Cotton buds;
Cutlery, plates, straws and stirrers;
Bal oons and sticks for bal oons;
Food containers (some fractions of plastic polymer);
Cups for beverages (some fractions of plastic polymer);
Beverage containers (PET bottles);
Cigarette butts;
Bags;
Crisps packets, sweet wrappers, bread bags and confectionery wrappers; and
-22 Draft Environmental Management and Coordination Regulation, 2018
23 Gazette Notice No. 4858
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-in the East African Community (2023)
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-
- Wet wipes and sanitary items.
-President Uhuru Kenyatta visits the Flipflopi dhow during UNEA 4 in Nairobi | Credit: Flipflopi
-2019/20 Budget: Incentives for Plastic Recycling
-The Kenyan government has provided incentives to businesses for plastic recycling. The
2019/2020 budget included an exemption from the 16% VAT for al services offered
including plastic recycling plants and the cost of machinery and equipment to set up
recycling plants. The government also reduced corporate tax from 30% to 15% for the first
5 years for any investor operating a plastic recycling plant.
-Extended Producer Responsibility ("EPR") Regulations, 2021
Kenya's EPR regulations are aimed at al eviating the burden on counties, municipalities,
and taxpayers on managing end-of-life products, by reducing the amount of waste
generated and increasing the rates of recycling.
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-in the East African Community (2023)
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-Under the EPR regulations, producers wil be responsible for the post-consumer lifecycle of
their products, including col ection, sorting, and treatment for recycling or recovery. The
regulation also envisions the establishment of Producer Responsibility Organizations
(PROs) for the defined products including plastics.
-Currently, the revised draft further reinforces the obligation of manufacturers and would
also require producers to carry out a series of additional activities, including raising
awareness on management of post-consumer products that they introduce in the market
and carrying out product life cycle assessment in relation to their products for enhancing
environmental sustainability among others24.
-Draft National Sustainable Waste Management Policy, 2021
The National Waste Management Policy aims to "create an enabling regulatory
environment for Kenya to effectively tackle the waste chal enge by implementing
sustainable, waste management that prioritizes waste minimization and contributes to a
circular economy." The Policy is now strengthened by the newly enacted Sustainable Waste
Management Act 2022 which has established actual structures for sustainable SWM.
-Finance Act 2021
The 2021 Act imposes a 10% excise duty on "articles of plastic" which is lower than the
120% excise duty imposed by preceding Finance Act of 2008.
-Sustainable Waste Management Act 2022
The newly enacted Act commits the government to enact measures to reduce the amount
of waste generated and, where waste is generated, to ensure that waste is reused,
recycled, and recovered in an environmental y sound manner.
-The Act focuses on discarding the linear model and embraces a circular model for waste
generation. The Act is based on eight main principles: the constitutional right to a clean and
healthy environment, the pol uter-pays principle, the precautionary principle, payment for
-24 Kenya Revises Draft Regulations on EPR
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-in the East African Community (2023)
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-ecosystem services, access to info on waste management, the zero-waste principle,
achieving sustainable development goals, and poverty al eviation and job creation
(especial y for youth, women, and the disabled).
-Furthermore, the Act establishes a governance framework through a waste management
council, expands the role of county governments and EPR schemes.
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-in the East African Community (2023)
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-Tanzania
-Single-Use Plastic Bans
-Plastic carrier bags ban
-Zanzibar's ban came into effect in 2006 for bags < 30 microns while the ban on the Tanzania mainland
-came into effect in June 2019
-Single-Use Plastics ban
-Ban on plastic sachets and plastic packaging (with certain exceptions).
-Relevant Government Institutions
- State Ministry for Environment
- Ministry of Industry, Trade, and Investment
- National Environment Management Council
-Tanzania implemented a ban on plastic bags in 2019 nearly a decade after Zanzibar (an
island off mainland Tanzania) introduced a similar ban for bags less than 30 microns.
-While there have been positive responses to the law, there remains limited data on how
widespread its adoption is. Additional y, the Tanzanian government is coming up with EPR
guidelines under the National Solid Waste Management Strategy, and this could reinforce
the management of SUPs and their disposal in the country.
-Below we will look at the policies and regulations in Tanzania that address
environmental protection and SUPs.
-The Constitution, 1977
The Constitution of the United Republic of Tanzania (1977) as amended in 2005, makes it
mandatory to protect each citizen's health. Article 14 states that "every person has the right
to live and to the protection of his life by the society per the law," which has been
interpreted by the High Court of Tanzania to mean that Tanzanians are entitled to a healthy
environment.
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-National Environment Policy ("NEP") 1997
The NEP emphasises sustainable environmental management, security, and equitable use
of resources, raising public awareness, and promoting individual and community
participation in environmental management. The NEP provides a set of principles and
objectives for an integrated and multisectoral approach addressing the totality of the
environment. The NEP also provides for the execution of a range of strategic functions
using policy instruments such as environmental impact assessments, environmental
legislation, economic instruments and environmental standards, and indicators. The policy
is stil being implemented, though there is a scarcity of information on its effectiveness.
-Environment Management Act ("EMA") [as amended], 2004
The EMA requires authorities to put more effort towards promoting the state of the
environment and its associated future threats such as any emission to air, land, or water as
wel as the storage and disposal of non-hazardous and hazardous wastes. The EMA
requires the appointed sectoral, regional, and district environmental management
coordinators to enforce environmental management policies in their geographical
locations, while implementing, monitoring, and evaluating effectiveness. The EMA also
re-established the NEMC which has the mandate to undertake environmental enforcement,
compliance, review and monitoring environmental impact statements, leading research
and raising awareness.
-The Environment Management (Prohibition of Manufacturing, Importation and Use
of Plastic Sachets for Packaging Distilled and other Alcoholic Beverages)
Regulations, 2017
These regulations imposed a total ban on the manufacturing, importation and use of
plastic sachets for packing distil ed and other alcoholic beverages regardless of their
thickness. The regulations also prohibit the registration or issuance of a licence to any
person intending to manufacture or import plastic sachets. Non-compliance with the
regulations may attract a penalty or a term of imprisonment as wel as repatriation,
confiscation and disposal of the plastic sachets.
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-in the East African Community (2023)
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-
-School children in Mwanza hold up signs cal ing for a plastic revolution | Credit: Flipflopi
-Ban on Plastic Carry Bags Regulations, 2018, Zanzibar25
The Zanzibar government official y banned the use of plastic bags less than 30 microns in
2006 through a directive, however the ban was only reflected in legislation in the Plastic
Bags Banning Regulations of 2011. These regulations made importation, manufacturing
and use of plastic bags an offence and on conviction a person can be imprisoned for six
months or pay a heavy fine of or both.
-On 8th June 2018, the Minister of State, Second Vice President's Office of the Government
of Zanzibar introduced the Ban on Plastic Carry Bags Regulations of 2018, which repealed
and replaced the 2011 regulations.The regulations prohibit a person from
-25 Plastic Carry Bags Regulations, 2018
-State of Affairs: Policies, Regulations and Laws that Address the Harmful Effects of Single-Use Plastics
-in the East African Community (2023)
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-manufacturing, importing, storing, sel ing, transporting, supplying, possessing, littering,
burning or using any plastic carry bag in Zanzibar for any purpose whatsoever.
-The National Solid Waste Management Strategy ("NSWMS"), 2018
The NSWMS seeks to establish a common platform for action between relevant
government institutions to systematical y improve waste management in Tanzania. The
strategy lays the framework for improved waste management in the country. This strategy
was developed to have ful y functional and compliant waste management systems in urban
centres, with a goal of protecting human health through enhancing a clean and healthy
environment for al .
-Additional y, Extended Producer Responsibility has been highlighted as one of the
approaches to be taken by the local governments in Tanzania to implement the solid waste
management strategy. Together with the Extended Producer Responsibility, the NSWMS
has also listed other means that can be used to implement the strategy including but not
limited to the introduction of public awareness campaigns and education, and the
establishment of efficiency and value addition in the solid waste management cycle.
-Environmental Management (Prohibition of Plastic Carrier Bags) Regulations, 2019,
Tanzania
Effective June 1, 2019 al plastic carrier bags, regardless of their thickness, were
prohibited from being imported, exported, manufactured, sold, stored, supplied, and
used in Mainland Tanzania26.
-Beverages and other products wrapped in plastic are also prohibited, unless the plastic
wrapping was necessary. The only exceptions to the ban are plastic or plastic packaging
for medical services, industrial products, the construction industry, the agricultural
sector, foodstuffs, and sanitary and waste management.
-26 Plastic Bags Prohibition Regulations Issued
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-In addition, "al suppliers of products contained in plastic bottles are now required to
set-up, operate or participate in a take-back system in col ecting their respective waste
plastic bottles for recycling purposes, and no additional price is to be charged for this
service."
-Ban of Plastic Drinking Straws and Soft Plastic Covers on Water Bottles, 2021
On the 9th of October 2021, the government of Tanzania through the Minister of State in
the vice president's office (Union Affairs and Environment), announced the ban on the
use of plastic drinking straws and soft plastic covers on the caps of water bottles.27
-The effective date for the ban is 12th April 2022 i.e. six months from the date of the
announcement, with the assumption that after that period most of the existing soft
drinks and water bottles wil expire. Products that have not expired wil be al owed to
remain in the market until their expiry date.
-The government further added that after the effective date, the importation of the said
products in Tanzania wil also be banned.
-The National Climate Change Strategy 2021-2026
-This new strategy replaces the 2012 strategy and addresses climate change mitigation
-through various industries including waste management industries which can supplement
-the National Waste Management Strategy 2018
-27 Marufuku Kuzalisha Karatasi Za Plastiki Kwenye Mfuniko Wa Chupa Za Maji-Mhe. Jafo
-Government Bans Use of Plastic Drinking Straws
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-in the East African Community (2023)
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-Uganda
-Single-Use Plastic Bans
-Plastic carrier bags ban
-Announced the ban of plastic carrier bags that are less than 30 microns in 2007,
-and this took effect in 2018.
-Single-Use Plastics ban
-Yet to ban.
-Relevant Government Institutions
- National Environment Management Authority (NEMA)
- Ministry of Water and Environment
- Kampala Capital City Authority
-Uganda's policy to ban SUPs was first announced in 2007. Similar to Kenya, the policy was
met by protests from manufacturers and traders delaying implementation for over a
decade.
-After years of implementation chal enges, the president of Uganda issued a directive in
2018 to enforce the ban on plastic bags (kaveera) that are < 30 microns. However,
implementation is inconsistent and the use of plastic bags remains common.
-An important factor to note is that the country's economic growth over the last few
decades has been largely driven by the manufacturing and construction sectors. The
plastics sector in particular is a core part of the country's manufacturing industry, and the
reluctance to enforce plastic bag bans can be attributed to their influence.
-Some of the push-back from the private sector to this plastic carrier bags ban has revolved
around the impact of the ban on employment and existing investments, and some have
also argued that there is need for the relevant authorities to implement existing waste
management policies rather than implementing strict bans on specific items only, in line
with other East African countries.
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-in the East African Community (2023)
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-
-Most recently, Uganda has been ranked as having the "fourth largest crude oil reserve in
sub-Saharan Africa"28 (oil is a crucial component in making plastic products). The focus on
an oil-based economy and industrialisation poses additional hurdles to Uganda's drive to
protect the environment, and reduces incentives for the country to stand out as
environmental stewards, similar to Kenya and Rwanda.
-With al of this in mind, Uganda made two significant statements in 2021. First, it became
the first landlocked country in the EAC to sign the Clean Seas Pledge (more details on the
pledge can be found later on in this report). Second, in July 2021, the Ugandan
Environmental Minister announced the government's intention to enforce a total ban on
plastic bags, however, the existing law wil first need to be amended.
-Below we will look at the policies and regulations in Uganda that address
environmental protection and SUPs.
-Constitution of the Republic of Uganda, 1995
The Constitution has provisions for enhancing conservation and management of the
environment and natural resources. Under the National Objectives and Directive Principles
of State Policy, Objective XXVII explicitly relates to the protection of the environment. This
objective imposes various obligations on the State including the promotion of sustainable
development and public awareness, the sustainable utilisation of natural resources and the
prevention and minimisation of damage and destruction to land, air and water resources
resulting from pol ution or other causes.
-More specifical y, Article 39 of the Constitution enshrines a constitutional right to a clean
and healthy environment for every Ugandan. Article 17(j) of the Constitution imposes a
duty on every citizen of Uganda to create and protect a clean and healthy environment.
Article 245 of the Constitution further provides that the Ugandan Parliament shal by law,
provide measures intended to protect and preserve the environment from abuse, pol ution
and degradation; to manage the environment for sustainable development; and to
promote environmental awareness.
-28 Oil wealth and development in Uganda and beyond: Prospects, opportunities and chal enges
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-The National Environmental Action Plan (the "NEAP") and the National Environment
Management Policy (the "NEMP"), 1994
Between 1991 and 1994, the Ugandan Government developed the NEAP which provided a
framework for addressing gaps in environmental management as wel as a strategy for
integrating the environment into the national socio-economic development. One of the
outcomes of the NEAP was the formulation of the NEMP. The overal goal of the NEMP is
the promotion of sustainable economic and social development mindful of the needs of
future generations. In addition, the NEMP also provided a basis for the formulation of a
comprehensive environmental legal framework under the 1995 Constitution and the
National Environment Act. The NEMP is currently undergoing a review to align it to the
National Environment Act, 2019 and to address the new and emerging environmental
issues and chal enges that the NEMP in its current form does not emphasise.
-Finance Act, 2009
Section 2 of the 2009 Finance Act prohibits the importation, local manufacture, sale or
use of plastic bags that are less than 30 microns as wel as the "importation, local
manufacture, sale or use of sacks and bags of polymers of ethene and polyethylene with
effect from March 31, 2010". Section 2 of the Finance Act, 2009, was eventual y repealed
by the National Environment Act, 2019.
-The National Environment Act, 2019
Assented to in February 2019, this Act assures the right of Ugandans to a clean and healthy
environment and addresses the rights of nature to exist. In section 97 (1), the Act strongly
prohibits littering and imposes an obligation on citizens and owners of premises to contract
relevant waste col ection agencies. Section 98 provides for Extended Producer
Responsibility (EPR), but without categorical specificity to plastics. Section 52(3) of the Act
also stipulates that waste originators shal minimise waste through the treatment,
reclamation and recycling of waste materials. The Act also provides for the continuation of
the National Environmental Management Authority ("NEMA") as the principal agency in
Uganda, charged with the responsibility of coordinating, monitoring, regulating and
supervising environmental management in Uganda.
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-in the East African Community (2023)
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-Section 76 of the National Environment Act, 201929
This Section specifical y relates to the management of plastic and plastic products.
Section 76 (1) of the Act provides that "the import, export, local manufacture, use or
re-use of categories of plastic carrier bags or plastic products made of polymers of
ethene (polythene) and propylene (polypropylene) is prohibited, except for plastic carrier
bags or plastic products made of polymers of ethene (polythene) and propylene
(polypropylene) of above thirty microns and those listed under Schedule 9."
-The Uganda National Bureau of Standards has the responsibility of enforcing the
prohibition under section 76 (1). Manufacturers or importers of plastic or plastic products
must, as a precondition for continued operation, ensure that recycling is part of that
person's active operations; label the plastics or plastic product; and put in place a
mechanism that is satisfactory to the Minister of Water and Environment to buy back or
remove from the environment plastic and plastic products.
-On 25th October 2021, a new condition of approval was added by the Uganda National
Bureau of Standards, requiring strict compliance with the Act as wel as label ing of plastic
bags.
-The National Environment (Waste Management) Regulations, 2020
The regulations provide rules for the handling and disposal of waste and provide the NEMA
with necessary powers for control of waste management in Uganda and any movement of
waste into, from, or through Uganda, and from to or through any area under the
jurisdiction of any other state.
-The regulations also provide for cleaner production methods; a license for the
transportation of or storage of waste; powers of the environmental inspector; extended
producer responsibility, packaging and label ing of waste; operation of a waste treatment
plant or disposal site; environmental impact assessment; and notification procedures and
prior informed consent.
-29 Section 76 of the National Environment Act, 2019
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-
-Ugandan singer, Sandra Suubi, leads a demonstration in Kampala around plastic pol ution in
-Lake Victoria | Credit: Flipflopi
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-in the East African Community (2023)
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-Burundi
-Single-Use Plastic Bans
-Plastic carrier bags ban
-Enacted in 2018 and took effect in 2020.
-Single-Use Plastics ban
-Yet to ban.
-Relevant Government Institutions
- Ministry of Environment, Agriculture and Livestock
- Ministry of East African Community Affairs, Youth, Sports and Culture
- Burundian Office for the Protection of the Environment
-Burundi passed a law banning plastic bags in 2018, which took effect in 2020. However,
there is limited information on the uptake and impact of this ban.
-Below we will look at the policies and regulations in Burundi that address
environmental protection and SUPs.
-The National Environment Strategy and Action Plan of Burundi, 1997
Developed in 1997, the purpose of this Plan was to ensure the restoration of the
environment, the efficient management of natural resources and the protection and
sustainable management of the environment. One of the principles under the Plan is the
rational use of natural resources. The plan also encourages the state, public and private
operators to take necessary measures to prevent and limit activities that are likely to harm
the environment. The plan also urges them to recover and value usable substances
contained in waste and integrate environmental protection into their projects.
-Law No. 1/010 of 30th June 2000 on the Code of Environment, 2000
This law sets out basic rules to protect and manage the environment against al forms of
degradation, to safeguard and enhance the rational use of natural resources, to fight
against different forms of pol ution and nuisances and thus, improve people's living
conditions while respecting the balance of ecosystems.
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-in the East African Community (2023)
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-Furthermore, Article 45 of The Code deals with water pol ution, prohibits spil s, flows,
discharges, direct or indirect deposits and al acts or facts that are likely to cause or
increase pol ution of the surface or underground water, whatever its origin.
Additional y, Article 120 of The Code demands proper management of waste in order to
lessen its harmful effects on the environment. It further states that producers of such
waste are responsible for its disposal in accordance with the provisions of The Code.
-The Constitution, 2005
The 2005 Constitution of Burundi refers to environmental protection and management in
three provisions, stating that "(i) the government ensures the good management and the
rational exploitation of natural resources of the country, while preserving the environment
and the conservation of these resources for future generations; (i ) the citizens of Burundi
enjoy a right to a clean and healthful environment; and (i i) protection of the environment
and conservation of natural resources shal be subject to specific laws."
-Ministerial Order No. 530/770/720/320/205 of 27 February 2009
This order relates to the development and management of protected areas in the vicinity of
ravines and rivers crossing urban and green spaces. Article 29 of the Order stipulates that
protected areas must be considered in the overal development plan and their
management must go with the development of the riparian human environment, and
participatory management of protected areas must be concerned with improving the
framework.
-Decree No. 100/099 of August 8, 201830
On 13 August 2018, a decree signed by President Pierre Nkurunziza said the country was
prohibiting the "manufacture, importation, marketing, storage, sale and use of al plastic
bags and another plastic packaging" while also promoting the use of materials that do
not harm the environment and preventing any form of pol ution caused by plastic.
This ban gave the country 18 months to prepare for the implementation of the legislation
and was effective in January 2020. The decree noted exemptions "for biodegradable
plastic bags, bags and plastic materials used in medical services, and industrial and
pharmaceutical packaging."
-30 Decree No. 100/099 of August 8, 2018
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-in the East African Community (2023)
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-South Sudan
-Single-Use Plastic Bans
-Plastic carrier bags ban
-Enacted in 2015.
-Single-Use Plastics ban
-Yet to ban.
-Relevant Government Institutions
- Ministry of Environment & Forestry
- Ministry of Trade, Industry and East Africa Community Affairs
-South Sudan does not have a comprehensive environmental legislative framework.
However, there are various laws in place that South Sudan applies for the protection of the
environment and the regulation of plastics.
-While, the policies and regulations are limited, South Sudan's appetite to be at par with
other EAC members is displayed by the government's move to ban plastic carrier bags31.
Fol owing this ban, authorities have stated that plastic pol ution is down by 50% in the
capital of Juba32, however, the country is stil struggling to ful y enforce the ban and mitigate
the pol ution caused by the improper disposal of plastic bags33. Current economic
chal enges have also made implementation of the ban less of a priority.
-Below we will look at the policies and regulations in South Sudan that address
environmental protection and SUPs.
-Vision 2040.
-The vision is "Towards freedom, equality, justice, peace and prosperity for al ".
-31 South Sudan's ban of plastic carrier bags: An empirical move or an emulation?
32 South Sudan's Plastic Bag Ban
33 Plastic pol ution remains biggest environmental problem
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-in the East African Community (2023)
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-The document is expected to strengthen environmental governance by increasing
the capacity and financing for the Ministry of the Environment and Forestry,
which would help to ensure that the country's natural resources are both
protected and used sustainably34.
-The Environmental Protection Act, 2001
This was legislation before South Sudan became independent. While the Act is no longer
legal y binding in South Sudan, it remains an important piece of legislation that is used to
give guidelines in ensuring environmental conservation in the country.
-The Act has the fol owing objectives: i) to protect the environment in its holistic definition
for the realization of sustainable development; i ) to improve the environment and the
sustainable exploitation of natural resources; and i i) to create a link between
environmental and developmental issues, and to empower concerned national authorities
and organs to assume an effective role in environmental protection.
-The Interim National Constitution of South Sudan (the "ICSS"), 2005
Highlights that every person shal have the right to have the environment protected for the
benefit of present and future generations, through reasonable legislative action and other
measures that prevent pol ution and ecological degradation; promote conservation; secure
ecological y sustainable development and use of natural resources while promoting
rational economic and social development so as to protect biodiversity. It also demands
that every person or community shal have the right to a clean and healthy environment.
-Local Government Act (2009)
Under the Local Government Act, waste management is considered as one of the public
services to be provided by local governments along with water supply, sanitation,
electricity, transportation, communication, etc.
-The Transitional Constitution of the Republic of South Sudan, 2011 (the "TCRSS")
Fol owing the vote to secede from Sudan in July 2011, the ICSS was replaced with the
TCRSS. Article 41(1) of the TCRSS specifies that every person or community shal have the
-34 South Sudan: the first outlook environmental report 2018 summary
-State of Affairs: Policies, Regulations and Laws that Address the Harmful Effects of Single-Use Plastics
-in the East African Community (2023)
-35
-
-right to a clean and healthy environment. Article 41(2) imposes an obligation on every
person to protect the environment for the benefit of present and future generations.
-Draft Environmental Protection Bill (2015)
The bil was prepared by the Ministry of Environment and Forestry and has comprehensive
plans that include waste management. The draft Bil aims to protect the environment in
South Sudan and to promote ecological y sustainable development that improves quality of
life. The draft bil also provides for the establishment of an autonomous South Sudan
National Environmental Management Authority to enforce the country's environmental
laws and regulations.
-The National Environment Policy 2015 - 2025
The policy aims to develop laws, regulations, and guidelines that ensure sustainable
management of the environment as wel as the prudent utilization of natural resources.
The policy contains ten chapters including chapters on climate change, management of
resources, corporate social and environmental responsibilities, and environmental
planning.
-Plastic Bag Ban
The ban on the importation and use of plastic carrier bags was enacted in December
2015 by the Ministry of Environment, however, implementation started after the ban in
Kenya.
-State of Affairs: Policies, Regulations and Laws that Address the Harmful Effects of Single-Use Plastics
-in the East African Community (2023)
-36
-
-Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC)
-Single-Use Plastic Bans
-Plastic carrier bags ban
-Enacted in 2021.
-Single-Use Plastics ban
-Ban on plastic sachets and plastic packaging (with certain exceptions).
-Relevant Government Institutions
- Ministry of Environment and Sustainable Development
- Congolese Environmental Agency
- Parliamentary Commission for Environment
-DRC does not have a comprehensive environmental legislative framework. However, there
are various laws in place that apply to the protection of the environment and the regulation
of plastics.
-The Republic of Congo has banned the production, import, sale and use of plastic bags in a
move to fight environmental pol ution as of March 2021. This decree is applied to the sale
of food, water and other plastic beverages in Kinshasa, the capital to curb the pol ution as a
result of plastic food and beverage packaging such as water sachets35.
-Despite the existence of policy, there is little enforcement, as goods with plastic packaging
are imported with little restriction. In fact, plastic waste management is covered by the
National Sanitation Policy (Politique Nationale d'Assainissement, PoNA) as wel , but policies
and plans specific to plastic waste management have not yet been formulated.
-Below we will look at the policies and regulations in DRC that address
environmental protection and SUPs.
-35 Greenpeace Africa reacts to strict measures against water sachets announced in Kinshasa
-State of Affairs: Policies, Regulations and Laws that Address the Harmful Effects of Single-Use Plastics
-in the East African Community (2023)
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-
-National Environmental Action Plan 2002
-Defines al the actions required to implement better environmental management
at national level
-Constitution of the Third Republic, Adopted on 18 February 2006, Article 53 states
that:
"Every person has a right to a healthy environment, which is favourable to his/her ful
development, the environment must be protected and the State must look after the
protection of the environment and the health of the people."
-Environmental Protection Act 2011
-Sets out the fundamental principles relating to the protection of the environment, as wel
as the institutional framework and procedural mechanisms for an environmental
-Decree No. 17/018 of December 30, 2017
-The Decree prohibits the production, importation, marketing, and use of plastic bags,
sachets, films and other plastic packaging for the sale of food, water, and any drink.
-State of Affairs: Policies, Regulations and Laws that Address the Harmful Effects of Single-Use Plastics
-in the East African Community (2023)
-38
-
-REGIONAL CONTEXT
-East African Community (EAC)
-Treaty for the Establishment of the East African Community, 1999
Chapter 19 of the Treaty for
establishment of the East African
Community enjoins the Partner States
to cooperate in al issues of
environmental and natural resources
management, while certain provisions
urge the Partner States to adopt
common environment control
regulations, incentives and standards;
encourage the manufacture and use
of biodegradable pesticides,
herbicides and packaging materials;
and to adopt common environmental
standards for the control of
atmospheric, terrestrial and water
pol ution arising from urban and
industrial development activities.
-East African Protocol on Environmental and Natural Resource Management, 2005
The East African Protocol on Environmental and Natural Resource Management governs
the partner states in their cooperation in the management of the environment and natural
resources within their jurisdiction including transboundary environment and natural
resources.
-State of Affairs: Policies, Regulations and Laws that Address the Harmful Effects of Single-Use Plastics
-in the East African Community (2023)
-39
-
-The East African Community Polythene Materials Control Bill, 2016
-In 2017, the East African Legislative Assembly passed the Polythene Materials Control Bil ,
201636. The Bil has however not been assented to by al the various Heads of State of the
EAC Partner States. The assent of al the Heads of State is required in order for the Bil to be
an Act of the EAC Community.
-The objectives of the Bil are to:
- establish a legal framework for the control of the use of polythene in the
-Community;
- promote the use of environmental y friendly packaging materials;
preserve and promote a clean and healthy environment and land use management
-for sustainable development;
- prevent any type of pol ution caused by polythene materials in lakes, rivers and
-oceans;
- protect infrastructure including drainage systems biodiversity and livestock;
promote recycling; and
brand the East African Community as green and clean.
-The Bil applies to al types of polythene materials (though there is a list of exempted
materials) and states that "the elimination of polythene bags shal be complete in al
Partner States within one year from coming into force of this Act."
-One of the major setbacks of the Kenyan plastic carrier bag ban in 2017 was smuggling
from neighbouring nations. Rwanda experienced the same setback. In this Act, the EAC
tries to address and prevent this from occurring.
-36 East African Community Polythene Materials Control Bil , 2016
-State of Affairs: Policies, Regulations and Laws that Address the Harmful Effects of Single-Use Plastics
-in the East African Community (2023)
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-
-Economic Community of West African States
-(ECOWAS)
-Although there is currently no ECOWAS-wide initiative for SUP waste management, the
majority of countries in the region have sustained partial if not ful bans on SUP37.
-These are outlined below:
-Country
-SUP Policy
-Senegal, Togo, Mali, Mauritania, Côte
-Partial Ban, implemented between 2013 -
-D'ivoire, Niger, Gambia, Burkina Faso,
-2018.
-Guinea-Bissau, Cape Verde, Benin.
-Ghana, Nigeria, Guinea, Liberia, Sierra
-No Policy/Ban. Ghana has a tax.
-Leone.
-In addition, a 2020 article by
Greenpeace reported that "Ministers
for Environmental Protection of the 15
member countries of the regional body
ECOWAS (Economic Community of
West African States) have also decided
to put a ban on the import, production
and marketing of plastic packaging in
the region by 2025.
-The same applies to the ban on the
instal ation of new plastic packaging
production units in the ECOWAS
countries."38
-37 Policies to reduce single-use plastic marine pol ution in West Africa
38 West Africa breaks free from Plastic | Time to celebrate Victories
-State of Affairs: Policies, Regulations and Laws that Address the Harmful Effects of Single-Use Plastics
-in the East African Community (2023)
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-
-Southern African Development Community
-(SADC)
-Similar to ECOWAS, the SADC does not have a regional initiative addressing SUPs, however,
al of its members have announced policies (total bans, partial bans, and levies) to reduce
the number of SUP bags with varying levels of implementation. Out of 16 member states,
10 have implemented their policies, 4 are yet to implement their policies, and 2 have had
their policies revoked.39
-Several countries, including Comoros, Mauritius, and Seychel es, also have additional bans
on specific SUPs.
-The SADC is composed of the
fol owing 16 member states:
Angola, Botswana, Comoros,
Democratic Republic of Congo,
Eswatini (formerly known as
Swaziland), Lesotho,
Madagascar, Malawi, Mauritius,
Mozambique, Namibia,
Seychel es, South Africa, United
Republic of Tanzania (also part
of the EAC), Zambia, and
Zimbabwe.
-39 Single-use plastic bag policies in the Southern African development community
-State of Affairs: Policies, Regulations and Laws that Address the Harmful Effects of Single-Use Plastics
-in the East African Community (2023)
-42
-
-African Union (AU)
-Bamako Convention, 2001
This Convention prohibits and regulates importation and trans-boundary movement and
management of hazardous wastes within African states.
-Having undertaken a gap analysis of the existing legislative and policy framework of
English-speaking, as wel as French and Portuguese-speaking African countries, UNEP has
now produced a set of draft guidelines for African countries for the development of policy
and legislation on plastic pol ution and marine litter40
-40 Draft regional guidelines for the development of legislation and policies on marine litter in africa
-State of Affairs: Policies, Regulations and Laws that Address the Harmful Effects of Single-Use Plastics
-in the East African Community (2023)
-43
-
-European Union (EU)
-The Plastic Bags Directive (Directive (EU) 2015/720)
The Plastic Bags Directive "is an amendment to the Packaging and Packaging Waste
Directive (94/62/EC) and was adopted to deal with the unsustainable consumption and use
of lightweight plastic carrier bags (i.e. plastic carrier bags with a wal thickness below 50
microns), which are one of the top ten littered items in Europe.41"
-Under this directive, Member States are required "to take measures, such as national
reduction targets and/or economic instruments (e.g. fees, taxes) and marketing restrictions
(bans), provided that the latter are proportionate and non-discriminatory."
-The European Union (EU) Directive on the Reduction of the Impact of Certain Plastic
Products on the Environment
-The European Parliament
approved
-the
-SUP
-directive
-in
-201942
-(effective from July 2021) ­
which "provides for a
progressive phase out of
single-use plastics, to be
replaced
-by
-reusable
-products and systems. It
also addresses single-use
plastic items through a
range of complementary
policy measures.
-41 The Plastic Bags Directive
42 European Parliament Passes Single-use Plastic Ban
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-in the East African Community (2023)
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-
-This includes:
- EU-wide bans for 15 items (e.g. plates, cutlery, straws, cups made of expanded
-polystyrene, food and beverage containers made of expanded polystyrene) from 3
July 2021,
- Consumption reduction for food containers and beverage cups, by 2026 compared
-to 2022,
- Fee-modulated Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) schemes for a number of
-items (packets and wrappers, wipes, tobacco products, etc.), including the costs of
clean-up,
- Specific design requirements for beverage containers and bottles, including recycled
-content integration and attachment of the cap to the container,
- Separate col ection of bottles - 77% of bottles put on the market by 2025 and 90% by
-2030,
- Label ing requirements, including on the presence of plastic and impact on the
-environment, for beverage cups, menstrual items, wet wipes and tobacco products.
- Awareness raising measures, on the impacts of single-use plastic on the
-environment and the promotion of reusable alternatives."43
-As of July 2021, several EU countries had made significant strides towards transposing the
directive into law44, however, several others45 were fal ing behind.
-43 Assessment of European countries' transposition of the Single Use Plastics Directive
44 Single-use plastics pol ution: where does Europe stand?
45 Italy reported to EU over plastics law failure
-State of Affairs: Policies, Regulations and Laws that Address the Harmful Effects of Single-Use Plastics
-in the East African Community (2023)
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-
-INTERNATIONAL CONTEXT
-Existing and Potential International Legal
-Frameworks Governing Plastic Pollution
-Towards a global plastics treaty
-In a historic move at UNEA-5, UN Member States endorsed a resolution on March 2, 2022
to end plastic pol ution by forging an international legal y binding agreement by 2024; the
resolution addresses the ful lifecycle of plastic, including its production, design and
disposal, the design of reusable and recyclable products and materials, and the need for
enhanced international col aboration to facilitate access to technology, capacity building
and scientific and technical cooperation.46
-The Intergovernmental Negotiating Committee had the first working session (INC-1) in
Punta del Este, Uruguay during which cal s were made for a human rights-based approach,
a just transition, equity, inclusivity, transparency, human and environmental health, taking
into account the special needs and circumstances of least developed countries, smal island
developing states and vulnerable communities47. Additional issues raised during the
discussions include: the role and responsibility of the private sector on plastic legacy issues;
and the need of infrastructure for sound plastic waste management and a timetable for
negotiations was also proposed.
-The 2nd session, INC-2 wil take place in June 2023 at the United UNESCO Headquarters in
Paris, France. During this session, the agenda is to resume conversations which were not
concluded in Uruguay, and mark the start of more substantive deliberations48, more
specifical y the preparation of an international y legal y binding instrument on plastic
pol ution, including the marine environment.
-46 Historic day in the campaign to beat plastic pol ution
-47 Stakeholder dialogue at INC-1 synthesis report
-48 INC-2 Proposed Agenda
-State of Affairs: Policies, Regulations and Laws that Address the Harmful Effects of Single-Use Plastics
-in the East African Community (2023)
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-
-1978: MARPOL
EAC Signatories: Kenya
-The MARPOL regulations address in Annex V al categories of waste from ship operations
including plastics. Al plastic waste generated during the normal operation of the ship is
strictly banned from discharge in any waters. This includes but is not limited to synthetic
ropes, fishing gear, garbage bags, and ashes from incineration. The regulations for the
prevention of pol ution from ships entered into force international y in 1988. Today, more
than 150 countries are signatories to MARPOL Annex V.
-1989: The Basel Convention
EAC Signatories: Kenya, Uganda, Rwanda, Burundi
-The Basel Convention is an international treaty that was designed to reduce the
movements of hazardous waste between nations, and specifical y to prevent the transfer of
hazardous waste from developed to less developed countries.
-In 2019, the Conference of the Parties to the Basel Convention adopted two important
decisions to address plastic waste, make global trade in plastic waste more transparent
and better regulated, whilst also ensuring that its management is safer for human health
and the environment. These steps have strengthened the Basel Convention as the only
global legal y binding instrument to specifical y address plastic waste. Technical assistance
is provided to assist parties in fulfil ing their obligations.
-A Plastic Waste Partnership (PWP) was also established to mobilise business, government,
academia, and civil society resources, interests, and expertise to improve and promote the
environmental y sound management (ESM) of plastic waste at the global, regional and
national levels and to prevent and minimize its generation. The overal tasks of the PWP
include:
- Advance the prevention, minimization, col ection and environmental y sound
-management of plastic waste;
- Undertake pilot projects which support the delivery of the other overal tasks;
Col ect, analyze and consider possibilities to improve information on transboundary
-movements of plastic waste;
- Encourage and promote relevant innovation, research and development.
-State of Affairs: Policies, Regulations and Laws that Address the Harmful Effects of Single-Use Plastics
-in the East African Community (2023)
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-
-
-Non-Binding Pledges and Campaigns Around
-Plastic Pollution
-Clean Seas Pledge
EAC Signatories: Kenya, Uganda
-The Clean Seas campaign is UNEP's
global campaign devoted to ending
marine plastic pol ution. It ral ies
individuals, civil society groups,
industry and governments to take
concrete actions to reduce marine
litter. Since the campaign was
launched in 2017, more than 60
countries have joined.
-Ocean Plastics Charter
EAC Signatories: Kenya, Rwanda
-The Ocean Plastics Charter was first adopted by Canada, France, Germany, Italy, the UK,
and the EU in 2018. It brings together governments, civil society, and businesses, to take
action towards a sustainable and resource efficient approach to managing plastics.
-Global Partnership on Marine Litter (GPML)
The GPML is a "multi-stakeholder partnership that brings together al actors working to
prevent marine litter and microplastics". By providing a platform for coordination and
knowledge sharing, stakeholders can col aborate to advance solutions to addressing
marine litter.
-State of Affairs: Policies, Regulations and Laws that Address the Harmful Effects of Single-Use Plastics
-in the East African Community (2023)
-48
-
-
-CONCLUSION AND RECOMMENDATIONS
-While EAC members have individual y made
strides towards addressing plastic pol ution,
there remains a pressing need for further
legislative action with respect to addressing the
manufacture, importation, use and sale of not
just plastic bags, but unnecessary SUPs at a
regional level.
-As it stands, there remains a huge gap in
legislative alignment, consistent enforcement,
uniform standards, common language, and clear
targets regarding plastic pol ution and
management in the region. There is a need and
-opportunity to tackle transboundary pol ution and this includes col aboration and
strengthening the commitments of states in the international treaties they ratify, and more
specifical y an East African Regional instrument.
-To approach this monumental challenge, we ask the EAC member states to come
-together to achieve the following:
- establish a legal framework to control the manufacture, importation, use and sale
-of SUPs, that coordinates with existing regulations and agreements;
- al ocate technical and financial support to the framework;
establish monitoring and reporting structures that track progress and ensure
-compliance;
- develop suitable waste management infrastructure;
promote the use of sustainable and reusable products and incentivise circular
-economy businesses and services; and
- lead awareness-raising campaigns to educate consumers and producers, among
-other key stakeholders.
-State of Affairs: Policies, Regulations and Laws that Address the Harmful Effects of Single-Use Plastics
-in the East African Community (2023)
-49
-
-The growth of East Africa's economies offer a range of opportunities to rethink SUPs, by
developing new production and consumption models that take us away from the
destructive nature of `business as usual' and towards actions more closely associated with
our own traditional values ­ where quite simply put: nothing should go to waste.
-Increasing policy frameworks that support more conscious economies while promoting a
just transition - in which policies stimulate economic opportunities relating to SUP
alternatives; protect livelihoods; and ensure inclusive representation in the policy making
process - is critical.
-Now is the time for East Africa to build on the momentum of member states, raise the bar
in the EAC, draw lessons and best practices from around the world, and come together to
outline bold and inspired measures that benefit the health, wel ness, and livelihoods of al
East Africans.
-East Africa lies in an enviable position of taking a stand as environmental leaders tackling
SUPs, and with that spurring global action and agreement on the same. Only when we
make the conscious decision to work together towards a shared vision for East Africa, wil
we begin to see the progress that we so desperately need.
-State of Affairs: Policies, Regulations and Laws that Address the Harmful Effects of Single-Use Plastics
-in the East African Community (2023)
-50
-
-AUTHORS AND CONTRIBUTORS
-The Flipflopi Project is a circular economy movement based in East Africa whose vision is
a world without single-use plastic. Flipflopi showcases alternate uses of waste plastic and
the viability of a circular economy in Africa through education programmes, innovation
hubs and advocacy and governance programmes.
-ALN (Africa Legal Network) is an integrated al iance of the preeminent ful service
corporate law firms in 14 African countries and a regional office in UAE. Together, ALN
firms provide clients with seamless practical and business-focused legal, advisory and
transactional services across Africa. The al iance specialises in blending deep local
knowledge and reach with sector-specific expertise, to successful y guide clients in
navigating local y and across borders.
-Sustainable Inclusive Business Kenya is a neutral platform that works with government,
civil society, academia, businesses, startups, youth and business experts across al sectors
with these focus areas: Circular Economy (Waste, Recycling, and Plastics), Climate Change ­
Food ­ Land ­ Water, People (Employee engagement, workers, work environment, gender,
and youth) and Business Values.
-With special thanks to the Sustainable Manufacturing and Environmental Pollution
(SMEP) Programme and partners - UK Aid and the United Nations Conference for Trade
and Development (UNCTAD) - for their support.
-State of Affairs: Policies, Regulations and Laws that Address the Harmful Effects of Single-Use Plastics
-in the East African Community (2023)
-51
-
- - diff --git a/resources/assets/1200px-Open-source-hardware-logo.svg.png b/resources/assets/1200px-Open-source-hardware-logo.svg.png deleted file mode 100644 index e67b07458..000000000 --- a/resources/assets/1200px-Open-source-hardware-logo.svg.png +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -version https://git-lfs.github.com/spec/v1 -oid sha256:959722200a03345a8dfa422e025ec8ccb82da96fb6a4b59ff6b702b428e5804f -size 78665 diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/-insulate-the-injectionextrusion-barrel/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/-insulate-the-injectionextrusion-barrel/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 0db614a77..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/-insulate-the-injectionextrusion-barrel/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Insulate the Injection/Extrusion barrel - - -Insulation makes the machines more efficient and safe to use. -Easy peasy :) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/-insulate-the-injectionextrusion-barrel/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/-insulate-the-injectionextrusion-barrel/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index b5ec620d0..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/-insulate-the-injectionextrusion-barrel/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,12 +0,0 @@ -### Get ready - - This is a pretty simple upgrade. There are many ways to insulate barrels, but in this example we have gone with using some steel mesh and hand-bent brackets. - -Before you begin, you should have: -- Hammer -- Vice -- Drill -- Steel mesh -- Insulation wool -- Scrap metal (flat bar) -- Nuts & Bolts diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/-insulate-the-injectionextrusion-barrel/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/-insulate-the-injectionextrusion-barrel/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 46b30bbce..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/-insulate-the-injectionextrusion-barrel/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Cut the mesh - - To begin, calculate the circumference you want your insulation cover to wrap around. - -Remember to add a bit extra for the tabs and then cut your mesh with a grinder or tin snips. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/-insulate-the-injectionextrusion-barrel/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/-insulate-the-injectionextrusion-barrel/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 88ff77fc9..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/-insulate-the-injectionextrusion-barrel/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Form the mesh - - Now find something cylindrical to use in order to shape your mesh into the desired shape. We have used a gas tank, but you could use another piece of steel. Get creative! - -Tip: You might need to hammer it a bit smaller after your first shaping because metal often has a ‘springback’ and may be too big. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/-insulate-the-injectionextrusion-barrel/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/-insulate-the-injectionextrusion-barrel/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 58ee31857..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/-insulate-the-injectionextrusion-barrel/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Centering brackets - - These brackets will connect and hold the cover around the barrel. Find a small pipe, around the same size as your barrel, and shape the strips around it. Make sure one bracket has longer tabs to be used for centering. - -Use your hammer to shape the tabs to the shape you want and drill some holes for bolting. You can finally weld or bolt the bigger bracket to the mesh. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/-insulate-the-injectionextrusion-barrel/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/-insulate-the-injectionextrusion-barrel/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 343c98eae..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/-insulate-the-injectionextrusion-barrel/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Fill with fluff - - Now with your cover finished, all you need to do is stuff the cover full of your insulation wool. -Done! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/15m-sheetpress-system---designed-for-disassembly/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/15m-sheetpress-system---designed-for-disassembly/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index a5e9aed09..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/15m-sheetpress-system---designed-for-disassembly/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### 1.5m Sheetpress System - Designed for Disassembly - - -Complete set of blueprints, CAD files and instructions on how to build this upscaled sheetpress system. - --56% larger pressing surface --Designed for easy disassembly --Improved electronics \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/15m-sheetpress-system---designed-for-disassembly/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/15m-sheetpress-system---designed-for-disassembly/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index fea641a9c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/15m-sheetpress-system---designed-for-disassembly/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11 +0,0 @@ -### Download - - Here's a link to the build folder: -https://drive.google.com/drive/u/1/folders/19glmxFnX6oH5BvBAc8NxFk5f-9YG9HNb - -If you're setting up a sheetpress workspace, you should still download our sheetpress workspace starterkit from our academy. Just use this build folder instead of the build folder in the main starterkit. - -And here's a link to our original build video. The design is slightly different but the steps are the same: -https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j3OctDe3xVk - - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/15m-sheetpress-system---designed-for-disassembly/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/15m-sheetpress-system---designed-for-disassembly/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 282c47eb1..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/15m-sheetpress-system---designed-for-disassembly/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Bigger Press = Bigger Sheets - - This system has been upscaled to a 1.5x1.5m pressing surface. This allows you to easily make plastic sheets at the standard 1.2x1.2m size and even a bit bigger. - -This is a 56% increase in capacity so you'll be able to recycle plastic at more than 50% the rate as the V4 press. - - -Note: The press requires 1500x3000 sheets of steel and aluminium to build. It's also quite a bit heavier, so it's no longer possible to handle the parts in this machine without the assistance of a hoist or similar lifting device. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/15m-sheetpress-system---designed-for-disassembly/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/15m-sheetpress-system---designed-for-disassembly/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 61b1e58b2..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/15m-sheetpress-system---designed-for-disassembly/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Designed for Disassembly - - The whole system has been designed to be disassembled for easy packing and transportation. It now fits through a standard door when disassembled. - -The electronics box can also be unplugged and dismounted for transportation. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/15m-sheetpress-system---designed-for-disassembly/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/15m-sheetpress-system---designed-for-disassembly/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2c6b74f22..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/15m-sheetpress-system---designed-for-disassembly/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Improved Electronics - - We've made some changes to the electrical system to better suit the increased power requirements of this larger machine. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/15m-sheetpress-system---designed-for-disassembly/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/15m-sheetpress-system---designed-for-disassembly/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 49ee84e6d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/15m-sheetpress-system---designed-for-disassembly/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Build it, hack it, share it! - - If you have any other ideas, improvements or hacks for this machine - make sure to share them with the community. -You can do this through a how-to, discord or instagram! - -Have fun building :) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/3d-print-a-500w-windturbine-from-recycled-pet/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/3d-print-a-500w-windturbine-from-recycled-pet/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index b9b9d993b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/3d-print-a-500w-windturbine-from-recycled-pet/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### 3D-print a 500W windturbine from recycled PET - - -This tutorial will teach you how to print the parts for a basic windturbine. -A how-to for a more advanced windturbine with follow soon. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/3d-print-a-500w-windturbine-from-recycled-pet/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/3d-print-a-500w-windturbine-from-recycled-pet/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index e0e6209da..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/3d-print-a-500w-windturbine-from-recycled-pet/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Acquire all parts - - Todo \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/3d-print-a-500w-windturbine-from-recycled-pet/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/3d-print-a-500w-windturbine-from-recycled-pet/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2c682fb04..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/3d-print-a-500w-windturbine-from-recycled-pet/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Set-up your slicing software - - We're using SuperSlicer because it has the best thin-edge control, which is important for the leading edge of the blade. It also allows to use multiple infills in one object. - -- 5mm wall thickness -- spar of 1cm: 100%infill -- above the spar: 5% gyroid infill -- under the spar: 18% gyroid infill -- (todo:upload gcode and SuperSlicer 3mf project) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/3d-print-a-500w-windturbine-from-recycled-pet/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/3d-print-a-500w-windturbine-from-recycled-pet/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7656040dd..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/3d-print-a-500w-windturbine-from-recycled-pet/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Print! - - Blades and hub will look like this. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/3d-print-a-500w-windturbine-from-recycled-pet/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/3d-print-a-500w-windturbine-from-recycled-pet/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index b04dc1fb6..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/3d-print-a-500w-windturbine-from-recycled-pet/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Assemble blades and hub - - Use 10mm bolts \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/3d-print-a-500w-windturbine-from-recycled-pet/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/3d-print-a-500w-windturbine-from-recycled-pet/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index a98eff6ac..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/3d-print-a-500w-windturbine-from-recycled-pet/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Balance the propeller - - Make sure that each blade has the same weight to prevent vibrations \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/3d-print-a-500w-windturbine/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/3d-print-a-500w-windturbine/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index f5c5756b9..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/3d-print-a-500w-windturbine/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### 3D-print a 500W windturbine - - -This tutorial will teach you how to print the parts for a basic windturbine. -A how-to for a more advanced windturbine with follow soon. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/3d-print-a-500w-windturbine/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/3d-print-a-500w-windturbine/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index e0e6209da..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/3d-print-a-500w-windturbine/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Acquire all parts - - Todo \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/3d-print-a-500w-windturbine/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/3d-print-a-500w-windturbine/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2c682fb04..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/3d-print-a-500w-windturbine/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Set-up your slicing software - - We're using SuperSlicer because it has the best thin-edge control, which is important for the leading edge of the blade. It also allows to use multiple infills in one object. - -- 5mm wall thickness -- spar of 1cm: 100%infill -- above the spar: 5% gyroid infill -- under the spar: 18% gyroid infill -- (todo:upload gcode and SuperSlicer 3mf project) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/3d-print-a-500wp-windturbine/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/3d-print-a-500wp-windturbine/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index e5782e734..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/3d-print-a-500wp-windturbine/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### 3D-print a 500Wp windturbine - - -This tutorial will teach you how to print the parts for a basic windturbine. -A how-to for a more advanced windturbine with follow soon. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/3d-print-a-500wp-windturbine/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/3d-print-a-500wp-windturbine/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index e0e6209da..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/3d-print-a-500wp-windturbine/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Acquire all parts - - Todo \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/3d-print-a-500wp-windturbine/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/3d-print-a-500wp-windturbine/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2c682fb04..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/3d-print-a-500wp-windturbine/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Set-up your slicing software - - We're using SuperSlicer because it has the best thin-edge control, which is important for the leading edge of the blade. It also allows to use multiple infills in one object. - -- 5mm wall thickness -- spar of 1cm: 100%infill -- above the spar: 5% gyroid infill -- under the spar: 18% gyroid infill -- (todo:upload gcode and SuperSlicer 3mf project) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/3d-print-directly-from-shredded-plastic-flakes/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/3d-print-directly-from-shredded-plastic-flakes/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 27263ee3a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/3d-print-directly-from-shredded-plastic-flakes/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### 3D print directly from shredded plastic flakes! - - -This is a modified version of the Precious Plastic extruder that is optimized for large format 3D printing. It uses a NEMA23 stepper motor so that it can be controlled by existing 3D printing software and control boards. - -You can mount this to any CNC gantry with a few inches of Z. I'm currently using a LowRider2 Gantry by V1engineering.com . - -You can watch a tutorial video here: https://vimeo.com/381749194 \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/3d-print-directly-from-shredded-plastic-flakes/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/3d-print-directly-from-shredded-plastic-flakes/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 12e3f6d4d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/3d-print-directly-from-shredded-plastic-flakes/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Tools you'll need - - You'll need: -- A power drill or impact driver -- A hex driver -- A set of metric hex wrenches -- An 9/32" Drill Bit -- An 1/8" Drill Bit -- A 4mm .70 Tap -- A CNC Gantry with more than 1-2" of Z travel. I'm using a LowRider2. Tutorial on that coming soon. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/3d-print-directly-from-shredded-plastic-flakes/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/3d-print-directly-from-shredded-plastic-flakes/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index d3a057b44..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/3d-print-directly-from-shredded-plastic-flakes/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Gather the parts - - These parts are intended to be easy to source in the United States. Metric/European sizes may be vary, but the base concept should be the same. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/3d-print-directly-from-shredded-plastic-flakes/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/3d-print-directly-from-shredded-plastic-flakes/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index d944cfc4e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/3d-print-directly-from-shredded-plastic-flakes/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Assemble the extruder - - Watch the video (https://vimeo.com/381749194) for step-by-step instructions. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/3d-printed-vortex-to-capture-plastic-waste-/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/3d-printed-vortex-to-capture-plastic-waste-/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 1647b7c73..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/3d-printed-vortex-to-capture-plastic-waste-/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,22 +0,0 @@ -### 3D Printed Vortex to Capture Plastic Waste - - -Simple cyclone filter we use to collect plastic residue we get from cutting and finishing our products. - -Materials: - -Cold silicone -PLA+ -M8 Screws -Bucket -Vacuum hoses - - -Tools: - -3D Printer -Slicer -Drill -Screwdriver - -Original design found in thingiverse https://www.thingiverse.com/lizzydesign/designs \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/3d-printed-vortex-to-capture-plastic-waste-/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/3d-printed-vortex-to-capture-plastic-waste-/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2b58acec2..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/3d-printed-vortex-to-capture-plastic-waste-/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Download files and prep 3D Print - - | \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/8low-cost-laundry-machine-with-water-filter-system-zzz-deleted/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/8low-cost-laundry-machine-with-water-filter-system-zzz-deleted/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index ff909f4f1..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/8low-cost-laundry-machine-with-water-filter-system-zzz-deleted/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### 8Low cost Laundry Machine with water filter system zzz deleted - - -Learn how to modify any laundry machine to enable it for plastic whasing without wasting any water drop. This guide will show you how to modify the electric system and add a water tank with a custom sand filter. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/8low-cost-laundry-machine-with-water-filter-system-zzz-deleted/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/8low-cost-laundry-machine-with-water-filter-system-zzz-deleted/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 5e8cd334a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/8low-cost-laundry-machine-with-water-filter-system-zzz-deleted/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Dissambly, clean the machine - - Dissambly, clean the machine \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/add-interchangable-patterns-to-injection-moulds/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/add-interchangable-patterns-to-injection-moulds/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index ad64e136d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/add-interchangable-patterns-to-injection-moulds/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Add interchangable patterns to injection moulds - - -Using lasercut, cnc milled or handmade plates you can add interchangable text or patterns to injection mould products. Add plastic types or logo's to the products. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/add-interchangable-patterns-to-injection-moulds/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/add-interchangable-patterns-to-injection-moulds/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 82a1bf667..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/add-interchangable-patterns-to-injection-moulds/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Have a mould - - We are adding a part to an existing mould. In this example we use the hexagon tile mould. It's a simple 3 part flat mould held together with boults. Outer size : 15 x 15 cm. The top and bottom plate are 10mm, the center part with hexagon cutout is 4mm. - -We will describe how to do lasercutting and CNC milling. For acces to a lasercutter/cnc milling device you can check with your local Fablab/makerspace, sometimes even high schools or universities. - -For the lasercut add ons we use 4mm acrylic plates (15 x15cm). -For the CNC we used 3mm aluminium plates (15 x 15cm). diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/add-interchangable-patterns-to-injection-moulds/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/add-interchangable-patterns-to-injection-moulds/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 5420bf8b0..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/add-interchangable-patterns-to-injection-moulds/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Design a pattern - - We used software to create different patterns. Make sure the text is mirrored as we are producing a negative. Depending on the technique used you might need a specific export format. - -You can add information (plastic type, production info) as you wish. - -With lasecutting there is virtually no limit in shapes you can cut. Do mind that smaller detail is harder to inject. In our experience 2-3mm is possible with HDPE injection. - -When CNC milling the limit is set by the router bit. As it cuts by turning all corners are smoothed out by the diameter of the router bit. Check the limit of the machine you are using. We used a 1mm router bit. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/add-interchangable-patterns-to-injection-moulds/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/add-interchangable-patterns-to-injection-moulds/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 59af36bc3..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/add-interchangable-patterns-to-injection-moulds/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Create a compatible file - - When lasercutting a 2D file is sufficient. Some software allows to use PNG, AI or other files. - -When CNC milling a 3D file is needed. Using software like Fusion 360 you can change your vector file into a 3D shape. - -In our example we've set the cutting depth to 1.5mm. - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/add-interchangable-patterns-to-injection-moulds/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/add-interchangable-patterns-to-injection-moulds/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8a456358e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/add-interchangable-patterns-to-injection-moulds/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11 +0,0 @@ -### Lasercut - - Depending on the type of cutter used settings will differ. - -Best is to do some test cuts first, changing the speed and intensity of the laser. Acrylic is safe to ut but does smell so dust extraction is advised. - -Make sure the pattern is not cut trough the acrylic plate as it will weaken the texture mould and make it less durable (although its possible for some shapes). - -Make sure the edges are cut through to prevent having to drill and cut manually later on in the proces. - -You can use multiple depths in one mould by assigning different settings to the cutting lines. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/add-interchangable-patterns-to-injection-moulds/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/add-interchangable-patterns-to-injection-moulds/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 75dc26cd0..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/add-interchangable-patterns-to-injection-moulds/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### CNC milling - - Run the file through the software, clamp the material in place and start milling. - -Again it is wise to do some speed tests first. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/add-interchangable-patterns-to-injection-moulds/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/add-interchangable-patterns-to-injection-moulds/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index ee98ffc93..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/add-interchangable-patterns-to-injection-moulds/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Inject - - Add the texture plate to the mould and start injecting. - -Best results when cooling down the mould quickly. - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/affordable-cat-house/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/affordable-cat-house/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 222294f43..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/affordable-cat-house/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Affordable Cat House - - -How to draw custom shapes and designs by hand and then cut in CNC. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/affordable-cat-house/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/affordable-cat-house/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 220cefb44..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/affordable-cat-house/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Draw you design in 1:1 scale - - For this first step, we provided 1:1 scale documents to draw on. Participants then drew their designs. The blue lines are for pocketing (not cutting the material through) and the red lines are for profiling(cutting the material through). \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/affordable-cat-house/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/affordable-cat-house/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index ee07a3e05..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/affordable-cat-house/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Scanning drawings - - In this step, we scanned(took pictures and used a scan filter like CamScanner) the drawings. The important part is to have a high-contrast image. Something like a photocopy. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/affordable-cat-house/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/affordable-cat-house/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7d609f4a1..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/affordable-cat-house/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Converting drawings into CAD - - We used the Rhinoceros 3D application and the Vectorize plugin to import the drawings as lines in Rhino. We then cleaned the lines and simplified all the curves using the rebuild command. This ensured smoother curves with fewer control points. Again the blue lines are for pocketing (not cutting the material through) and the red lines are for profiling(cutting the material through). \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/affordable-cat-house/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/affordable-cat-house/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7bc64e7de..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/affordable-cat-house/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Preparing for CNC - - For this step, we used the VCarve application. We entered the width, length, and thickness of our material. Then we selected the blue lines and chose 'pocketing' and for the red lines we chose 'profiling'. Every machine is different so this step will be different for everyone. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/affordable-cat-house/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/affordable-cat-house/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index db45c98d0..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/affordable-cat-house/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### CNC miling - - This step involves cutting the material according to the designs. For this, we screw four corners of our sheet material to the CNC bed and specify to the CNC machine where are the x, y, and z locations of the corner of the sheet plastic. An important thing to remember is to double-check the cutting pattern from an elevated point (meaning the Z coordinates should be higher than the material) to make sure that the CNC bit is not hitting any of the screws and that the design fits in the sheet nicely and is not offsetted to one side. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/affordable-cat-house/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/affordable-cat-house/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index e4ff42e03..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/affordable-cat-house/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Assembly - - The last step is to assemble all sides of the Affordable Cat Housing using screws. We used two materials; our plastic sheets and OSB panels. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/affordable-cat-housing/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/affordable-cat-housing/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 5afd15446..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/affordable-cat-housing/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Affordable Cat Housing - - -How to draw custom shapes and designs by hand and then cut in CNC. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/affordable-cat-housing/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/affordable-cat-housing/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 220cefb44..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/affordable-cat-housing/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Draw you design in 1:1 scale - - For this first step, we provided 1:1 scale documents to draw on. Participants then drew their designs. The blue lines are for pocketing (not cutting the material through) and the red lines are for profiling(cutting the material through). \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/affordable-cat-housing/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/affordable-cat-housing/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index ee07a3e05..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/affordable-cat-housing/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Scanning drawings - - In this step, we scanned(took pictures and used a scan filter like CamScanner) the drawings. The important part is to have a high-contrast image. Something like a photocopy. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/affordable-cat-housing/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/affordable-cat-housing/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7d609f4a1..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/affordable-cat-housing/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Converting drawings into CAD - - We used the Rhinoceros 3D application and the Vectorize plugin to import the drawings as lines in Rhino. We then cleaned the lines and simplified all the curves using the rebuild command. This ensured smoother curves with fewer control points. Again the blue lines are for pocketing (not cutting the material through) and the red lines are for profiling(cutting the material through). \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/affordable-cat-housing/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/affordable-cat-housing/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7bc64e7de..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/affordable-cat-housing/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Preparing for CNC - - For this step, we used the VCarve application. We entered the width, length, and thickness of our material. Then we selected the blue lines and chose 'pocketing' and for the red lines we chose 'profiling'. Every machine is different so this step will be different for everyone. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/affordable-cat-housing/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/affordable-cat-housing/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index db45c98d0..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/affordable-cat-housing/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### CNC miling - - This step involves cutting the material according to the designs. For this, we screw four corners of our sheet material to the CNC bed and specify to the CNC machine where are the x, y, and z locations of the corner of the sheet plastic. An important thing to remember is to double-check the cutting pattern from an elevated point (meaning the Z coordinates should be higher than the material) to make sure that the CNC bit is not hitting any of the screws and that the design fits in the sheet nicely and is not offsetted to one side. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/affordable-cat-housing/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/affordable-cat-housing/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index e4ff42e03..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/affordable-cat-housing/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Assembly - - The last step is to assemble all sides of the Affordable Cat Housing using screws. We used two materials; our plastic sheets and OSB panels. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/another-cyclette-shredder/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/another-cyclette-shredder/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index b41906c1c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/another-cyclette-shredder/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Another cyclette shredder - - -Inspired by the other manual and bike shredders, I wanted to make one by repurposing an old mechanical "cyclette trainer". \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/another-cyclette-shredder/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/another-cyclette-shredder/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 765c4796c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/another-cyclette-shredder/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### - - \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/another-cyclette-shredder/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/another-cyclette-shredder/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 765c4796c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/another-cyclette-shredder/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### - - \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/another-cyclette-shredder/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/another-cyclette-shredder/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 765c4796c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/another-cyclette-shredder/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### - - \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/automated-sheet-press/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/automated-sheet-press/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 33cf4e0c4..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/automated-sheet-press/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Automated Sheet Press - - -Here we describe some of the adaptations we made to the sheetpress. It is a step towards an automated version. The main goal was to adapt the sheetpress so that it needs minimal time investment. -Our version has a 600x600mm pressing surface. We chose this size to fit our needs: a transportable machine that runs on standard single phase 230V. - -If you want more info, contact us :) - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/automated-sheet-press/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/automated-sheet-press/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7c9a5a238..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/automated-sheet-press/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Structure - - -The basics are derived from the V4 sheetpress, with the same press, same cartridge heaters,... but a downsized steel frame so the pressing surface is 600 x 600 mm. - -We changed the bearings for an alternative with a smooth fit. - - - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/automated-sheet-press/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/automated-sheet-press/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 37cac10d0..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/automated-sheet-press/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Heating: heater configuration - - We chose to create 2 separate loops in every heated plate (Upper and Lower). One is the core or inside loop (5 cartridge heaters), the other is the outside loop (4 heaters). We expect the center loop to have less heat loss so it will shut down sooner/more.  -One of the reasons we made a small version is to be able to use it in our mobile workspace. Reducing power consumption to 230V increases the chance we can plug it in almost anywhere. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/automated-sheet-press/step_10.md b/resources/howtos-oa/automated-sheet-press/step_10.md deleted file mode 100644 index 6b741b202..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/automated-sheet-press/step_10.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Pressing: pneumatic system - - We use pneumatics to operate the jack. It was the cheapest option as we have an air compressor available. Other alternatives would be hydraulic systems. A pneumatic valve, controlled by the system controller let’s air go through when the press needs to be raised. To release the press we installed a servo that can open or close the valve to lower the press (it opens because of its weight)  - -When the timer runs out (sheetmaker) a signal sent by the Raspberry pi tells the Arduino to release the press. This can be manually overruled if needed.  - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/automated-sheet-press/step_11.md b/resources/howtos-oa/automated-sheet-press/step_11.md deleted file mode 100644 index 32b0d0c28..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/automated-sheet-press/step_11.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### pressing: height sensor - - There is a sensor attached to the upper plate measuring the distance to a reflector mounted on the lower plate. The casing is a sliced PVC tube to limit interference. This measurement is sent to the arduino and allows the machine to know the position of the plates, when to add air and when to release. The sensor we used is a Time Of Flight Sensor vl6180.  diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/automated-sheet-press/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/automated-sheet-press/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 76607fe83..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/automated-sheet-press/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Heating: sensor configuration - - We added multiple type K sensors (eighth on each heating plate) to have an accurate heat map so we can identify problems: overheating, broken heaters,... These sensors also make it possible to check how the core and peripheral temperatures are behaving ( warming and cooling speed, fluctuations,...) -Sensors are distributed evenly, not linked to specific heaters. - -How we use this data will be explained in a later step. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/automated-sheet-press/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/automated-sheet-press/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4880f5a2a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/automated-sheet-press/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Heating : Digital PID - - We switched out the original hardware PID's for a software implementation on the machine controller. This allows further automatisation, data logging and a fluent integration in the user control interface. We also can track (monitor) pressing times and (max) temperatures to optimize the machine use.  diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/automated-sheet-press/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/automated-sheet-press/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index b4ebfddcc..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/automated-sheet-press/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### heater and sensor connection - - At the moment the thermocouples are connected to a differential adc, specially made for the raspberry Pi from AB Electronics. To improve the functionality of the sensors, these adc’s will be replaced with a MAX31855. This is an integrated circuit from Maxim Integrated, dedicated to reading type-K thermocouples. The heating elements are divided into 4 circuits, 2 per plate, one outer circuit and one inner. Each circuit is controlled by the raspberry pi through a solid state relay. These relays are made to switch 230v AC and are controllable using a 4v-48v signal. To protect the pi from short circuits to the 230V ac the drive signals for the relays are optically isolated.   diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/automated-sheet-press/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/automated-sheet-press/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index ee2863fc7..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/automated-sheet-press/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Digital interface - - The digital interface runs on a Raspberry Pi that is connected with a touch screen. It is split up into two parts, the server part and the client side. The client side is a website that you can access from the Pi’s browser or from any device that is connected to the wifi on the raspberry Pi. The server is made with Nodejs.  diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/automated-sheet-press/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/automated-sheet-press/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index 87081518c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/automated-sheet-press/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Sheetmaker part 1 - - • The sheet maker page allows users to make an automated sheet. It is possible to select the type of plastic and the required thickness of the sheet. We use metal frames to set thickness and sheet size/shape. Based on these parameters the screen will indicate the weight needed to produce the sheet. The time and temperature needed to make a sheet is also displayed.  -• In the following step it is possible to start the  heating process. This can be done while preparing the sheet on the prep table. The system automatically sets the correct temperature for each plastic type. - \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/automated-sheet-press/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/automated-sheet-press/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index ecfcf2c1c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/automated-sheet-press/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### sheetmaker part 2 - - •  When the plates are up to temperature and the prep sheet is inserted the operator needs to select the press function. This will start the automated pressing and the timer. Every few minutes the system activates to maintain pressure. A notification sound is played in advance to warn operators.  -• While the sheet maker is pressing options for further steps can be chosen : automatic open (to 10cm) when the timer finishes or stay closed. In both cases the heating will be stopped.  -• A sound indicates the timer had run out. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/automated-sheet-press/step_8.md b/resources/howtos-oa/automated-sheet-press/step_8.md deleted file mode 100644 index 87725dbde..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/automated-sheet-press/step_8.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Sheetmaker part 3 - - • When finished you can choose to make the same or go back to the first step.  -• All these steps can be controlled manually on the controls page. Each of the 4 heating circuits can be set to the desired temperature and open or close the press. While the sheet maker is making an automated sheet there is no access to the manual controls .  -• There are 2 heating maps from each plate on the graphs page, this allows users to  monitor each heating element. There are  also 2 graphs: one that displays the average temperature from the last 15 minutes and one that displays the last 2 hours. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/automated-sheet-press/step_9.md b/resources/howtos-oa/automated-sheet-press/step_9.md deleted file mode 100644 index 68ea83b7a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/automated-sheet-press/step_9.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### sheetmaker part 4 - - • The history tab will show you all the sheets that are made with the automated process. It will show the id number, the average temp, the highest temp, the plastic type and how long it was in the press.  - -• The calculator function allows to prepare a following sheet while the machine is in use. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/bamboo-plastic-composite-furniture-bpc/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/bamboo-plastic-composite-furniture-bpc/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index d39b0b3cc..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/bamboo-plastic-composite-furniture-bpc/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Bamboo Plastic Composite Furniture (BPC) - - -Piece of furniture made of BPC Bamboo Plastic Composite panels. a Bench and a Rack made of composite panels with cnc cut. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/bamboo-plastic-composite-furniture-bpc/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/bamboo-plastic-composite-furniture-bpc/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 3c564f460..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/bamboo-plastic-composite-furniture-bpc/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Make the panel - - Prepare the material mold and press the composite into the thermpress, after a few minutes we have a panel. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/bamboo-plastic-composite-furniture-bpc/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/bamboo-plastic-composite-furniture-bpc/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 37d784ac3..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/bamboo-plastic-composite-furniture-bpc/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### MATERIAL COMPOSITE - - Mix the Plastic pieces with the bamboo residues in an extrusor and then pick up parts. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/bamboo-plastic-composite-furniture-bpc/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/bamboo-plastic-composite-furniture-bpc/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 6dc1d5a56..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/bamboo-plastic-composite-furniture-bpc/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### CNC panel to make the bench - - Cut a CNC panel to make the bench, it is a 3 parts bench, after we fix the parts it's quite easy. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/beads-mould---a-lot-of-them/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/beads-mould---a-lot-of-them/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 09301e0d5..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/beads-mould---a-lot-of-them/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Beads mould - a lot of them! - - -Here you will learn how to create moulds with high cavity amounts of small items. In the example we use a moulds for beads. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/beads-mould---a-lot-of-them/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/beads-mould---a-lot-of-them/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index fcdc0cb25..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/beads-mould---a-lot-of-them/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Design for manufacturing - - As a first step you have to make sure that your design meets the requirements of injection moulding (like draft angles) and the way your mould is made as well (like minimum tool diameter). To create this kind of large moulds you need relatively low volume parts, so your part volume * number of parts + runners, sprues, gates is smaller than your capacity of your injection moulding machine. - -In our example one bead only weights 0,8g in Polypropylene so we could fit 50pcs in one single mould! - -Here you find some recommendations that will ease the process: https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/create/injection-moulds. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/beads-mould---a-lot-of-them/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/beads-mould---a-lot-of-them/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2cff7b476..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/beads-mould---a-lot-of-them/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Dream big! - - To achieve this kind of high-number-cavities with our low end machines you have to get a bit creative about part placement in the mould. In comparison to industry-like moulds we are very limited on most machines from our maximum pressure. - - -This requires to use thicker runners (the channel where the plastic flows into the final cavity) than for "industrial" moulds. In most cases a circular design is beneficial for even flow, equal filling of all cavities and to achieve the lowest necessary pressure. - - -It is recommended to ask your mould supplier for simulated tests, so you can be sure that the mould will also work at the end. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/beads-mould---a-lot-of-them/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/beads-mould---a-lot-of-them/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index cafcd08cd..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/beads-mould---a-lot-of-them/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Cut the mould - - Here everything works like for a low-cavity number mould, just everything takes a bit longer and therefore it becomes a bit more costly. - - -However if labour is expensive it is the most efficient way to increase your productivity for manual injection moulding. (Given that the injections/h is a fixed number) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/beads-mould---a-lot-of-them/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/beads-mould---a-lot-of-them/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9f0d8ba9d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/beads-mould---a-lot-of-them/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Inject! - - In the process we have to make sure we use a relative easy flowing material like PP to make sure the material fills all the cavities of the mould and reaches everywhere. - -To preheat the mould to 40-60deg C may help that the plastic flows easily as well as a bit longer heatup-times between the shots. - -You find the CAD files linked above to make your own. - -Or get them made for you over at the Bazar at various cavity numbers. -https://bazar.preciousplastic.com/moulds/injection-moulds/beads-mould/ \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/become-am-authorized-dealer-x/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/become-am-authorized-dealer-x/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2667bc06c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/become-am-authorized-dealer-x/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Become am Authorized Dealer x - - -The Patent Pending "Kwik BagIt Closed-Loop Rewards Recycling System" is proprietry and requires a Non-Disclosure to be signed before all details can be shared. - -In short, we are seeking individuals who are interested in establishing collection sites in your community, working with non-profit groups who will be able to receive payment for their services. - -The following video will give our Mission Statement and why - we are seeking dealers across the globe to develop the business in their local area. - \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/become-am-authorized-dealer-x/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/become-am-authorized-dealer-x/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 0e3ef105f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/become-am-authorized-dealer-x/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Contamination and Co-mingling - - These are 2 of the main reason why MRFs are failing and we have proprietary information that relates to the Patent Pending "Systems" which will be revealed upon signing a nondisclosure with Kwik BagIt - -The attached video link will give a basic understanding. -Contact us for more information \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/become-am-authorized-dealer-x/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/become-am-authorized-dealer-x/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7dff85395..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/become-am-authorized-dealer-x/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Establishing a Non-Profit Group to work with - - The Patent Pending "Kwik BagIt Closed-Loop Rewards Recycling System" is designed to reward the household and commercial businesses as well as the non-profit groups who will also participate in a lucrative revenue-based activity that will be essential to the profit and success of your dealership. Contact us for more details. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/become-am-authorized-dealer-x/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/become-am-authorized-dealer-x/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 102593521..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/become-am-authorized-dealer-x/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Working with Municipalities and Re-Processors - - The Mandate of the Authorized Kwik Bagit Dealers is to - -1. Reduce the amount of unnecessary recyclable plastic and metal material entering the municipal landfills. -2. Improve the quality and quantity of the material that is sent to re-processors in order to make them more profitable -3. Provide the Authorized Dealers with the ability to capitalize on the valuable recyclable material that is commonly tossed in the waste. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/become-am-authorized-dealer-xx/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/become-am-authorized-dealer-xx/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 1ee05df20..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/become-am-authorized-dealer-xx/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Become am Authorized Dealer xx - - -The Patent Pending "Kwik BagIt Closed-Loop Rewards Recycling System" is proprietary and requires a Non-Disclosure to be signed before all details can be shared. - -In short, we are seeking individuals who are interested in establishing collection sites in your community, working with non-profit groups who will be able to receive payment for their services, and creating a profitable business with our "System". This is a ground-floor opportunity and is available anywhere in the world. - -The following video will give our Mission Statement and why - we are seeking dealers across the globe to develop the business in their local area. - \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/become-am-authorized-dealer-xx/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/become-am-authorized-dealer-xx/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index b22ac22bd..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/become-am-authorized-dealer-xx/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Contamination and Co-mingling - - These are 2 of the main reason why MRFs are failing and we have proprietary information that relates to the Patent Pending "Systems" which will be revealed upon signing a nondisclosure with Kwik BagIt. - -The attached video link will give a basic understanding. -Contact us for more information \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/become-am-authorized-dealer-xx/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/become-am-authorized-dealer-xx/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2588b31ab..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/become-am-authorized-dealer-xx/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Establishing a Non-Profit Group to work with - - The Patent Pending "Kwik BagIt Closed-Loop Rewards Recycling System" is designed to reward the household and commercial businesses as well as the non-profit groups who will also participate in a lucrative revenue-based activity that will be essential to the profit and success of your dealership. Contact us for more details. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/become-am-authorized-dealer-xx/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/become-am-authorized-dealer-xx/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 102593521..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/become-am-authorized-dealer-xx/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Working with Municipalities and Re-Processors - - The Mandate of the Authorized Kwik Bagit Dealers is to - -1. Reduce the amount of unnecessary recyclable plastic and metal material entering the municipal landfills. -2. Improve the quality and quantity of the material that is sent to re-processors in order to make them more profitable -3. Provide the Authorized Dealers with the ability to capitalize on the valuable recyclable material that is commonly tossed in the waste. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/become-am-authorized-dealer-xxx/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/become-am-authorized-dealer-xxx/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index ff7ae8a35..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/become-am-authorized-dealer-xxx/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Become am Authorized Dealer xxx - - -The Patent Pending "Kwik BagIt Closed-Loop Rewards Recycling System" is proprietary and requires a Non-Disclosure to be signed before all details can be shared. - -In short, we are seeking individuals who are interested in establishing collection sites in your community, working with non-profit groups who will be able to receive payment for their services, and creating a profitable business with our "System". This is a ground-floor opportunity and is available anywhere in the world. - -The following video will give our Mission Statement and why - we are seeking dealers across the globe to develop the business in their local area. - \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/become-am-authorized-dealer-xxx/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/become-am-authorized-dealer-xxx/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index b22ac22bd..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/become-am-authorized-dealer-xxx/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Contamination and Co-mingling - - These are 2 of the main reason why MRFs are failing and we have proprietary information that relates to the Patent Pending "Systems" which will be revealed upon signing a nondisclosure with Kwik BagIt. - -The attached video link will give a basic understanding. -Contact us for more information \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/become-am-authorized-dealer-xxx/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/become-am-authorized-dealer-xxx/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2588b31ab..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/become-am-authorized-dealer-xxx/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Establishing a Non-Profit Group to work with - - The Patent Pending "Kwik BagIt Closed-Loop Rewards Recycling System" is designed to reward the household and commercial businesses as well as the non-profit groups who will also participate in a lucrative revenue-based activity that will be essential to the profit and success of your dealership. Contact us for more details. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/become-am-authorized-dealer-xxx/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/become-am-authorized-dealer-xxx/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 102593521..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/become-am-authorized-dealer-xxx/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Working with Municipalities and Re-Processors - - The Mandate of the Authorized Kwik Bagit Dealers is to - -1. Reduce the amount of unnecessary recyclable plastic and metal material entering the municipal landfills. -2. Improve the quality and quantity of the material that is sent to re-processors in order to make them more profitable -3. Provide the Authorized Dealers with the ability to capitalize on the valuable recyclable material that is commonly tossed in the waste. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/become-an-authorized-dealer/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/become-an-authorized-dealer/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 01240f9d1..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/become-an-authorized-dealer/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Become an Authorized Dealer - - -The Patent Pending "Kwik BagIt Closed-Loop Rewards Recycling System" is proprietary and requires a Non-Disclosure to be signed before all details can be shared. - -In short, we are seeking individuals who are interested in establishing collection sites in your community, working with non-profit groups who will be able to receive payment for their services, and creating a profitable business with our "System". This is a ground-floor opportunity and is available anywhere in the world. - -The following video will give our Mission Statement and why - we are seeking dealers across the globe to develop the business in their local area. - \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/become-an-authorized-dealer/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/become-an-authorized-dealer/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index b22ac22bd..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/become-an-authorized-dealer/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Contamination and Co-mingling - - These are 2 of the main reason why MRFs are failing and we have proprietary information that relates to the Patent Pending "Systems" which will be revealed upon signing a nondisclosure with Kwik BagIt. - -The attached video link will give a basic understanding. -Contact us for more information \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/become-an-authorized-dealer/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/become-an-authorized-dealer/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2588b31ab..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/become-an-authorized-dealer/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Establishing a Non-Profit Group to work with - - The Patent Pending "Kwik BagIt Closed-Loop Rewards Recycling System" is designed to reward the household and commercial businesses as well as the non-profit groups who will also participate in a lucrative revenue-based activity that will be essential to the profit and success of your dealership. Contact us for more details. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/become-an-authorized-dealer/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/become-an-authorized-dealer/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 102593521..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/become-an-authorized-dealer/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Working with Municipalities and Re-Processors - - The Mandate of the Authorized Kwik Bagit Dealers is to - -1. Reduce the amount of unnecessary recyclable plastic and metal material entering the municipal landfills. -2. Improve the quality and quantity of the material that is sent to re-processors in order to make them more profitable -3. Provide the Authorized Dealers with the ability to capitalize on the valuable recyclable material that is commonly tossed in the waste. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/bench/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/bench/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index d09f43d3c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/bench/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Bench - - -On this tutorial you will learn how to create this solid bench from extrusions. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/bench/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/bench/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 972fe9eac..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/bench/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11 +0,0 @@ -### Cut the beams - - To create a bench you have to cut large and small beams : - -- small beams ( 34 mm square ) - - 500 mm x 20 - -- large beams ( 54 mm square ) - - 500 mm x 4 - - 392 mm x 4 - - 850 mm x 2 \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/bench/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/bench/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 0d8553b47..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/bench/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11 +0,0 @@ -### Drill holes - - Then, you have to drill holes -- on the both sides of the 392mm beams. -- on the both sides of the 850 mm beams. - -Drill two separate holes and then pierce between them to create a single one. The hole must be long enough to insert the nut. Be careful to not broaden it too much. - -TIPS : you can drill the corners with a small drill bit before you drill the big one. - -Next, drill the other beams normally, with a 10mm large bit. You can drill them with a larger bit a few mm deep to drown the head of the bolts. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/bench/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/bench/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 0b55b1df8..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/bench/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Assembling - - Now, you have to create the two square sides of the bench : insert bolts in the drilled holes. Then, assemble the longest beams to create the whole structure of the bench. - -Pre-pierce the 20 small beams and place them on the structure. Return the bench and screw them. - -... AND THAT'S IT ! Good job ! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/bend-plastic-sheets/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/bend-plastic-sheets/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index e80023155..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/bend-plastic-sheets/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Bend plastic sheets - - -Bending plastic is a useful technique that allows turning a flat surface into a three-dimensional shape. It offers a lot of possibilities and works just by applying heat locally and with little force. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/bend-plastic-sheets/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/bend-plastic-sheets/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 956f93aa9..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/bend-plastic-sheets/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Stay safe - - -In order to bend plastic easily you have to apply heat above the melting temperature which can lead to degrading the plastic. If this happens, bad fumes can be released. -So in order to work safer make sure to use a gas mask with ABEK filters to prevent inhaling possibly toxic fumes. Special attention on plastics like PS and PVC. Also when handling with heated elements it’s recommended to wear working gloves. - -Recommended safety equipment: -- ABEK mask -- gloves diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/bend-plastic-sheets/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/bend-plastic-sheets/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 5a12e275f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/bend-plastic-sheets/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Set the right temperature - - A bending machine is a pretty basic machine that relies on two heating elements to warm up the plate just enough to perform a bending without breaking the piece. - -The first step is to set the machine at the right temperature. -We can recommend: -- for PS: 90-100ºC above the melting point, to reduce the exposure timing. -- for HDPE and PP: 50-60ºC above the melting point. These materials take longer to fully heat up and increasing the temperature could burn the surface before melting the inside. Therefore, longer exposure periods tend to give better results. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/bend-plastic-sheets/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/bend-plastic-sheets/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index c0d9d62ce..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/bend-plastic-sheets/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Heating timings - - Once the machine reaches the desired temperature it’s time to place the plate between the two heating elements. In our tests we found that PS usually takes less than 6-10 min, while HDPE takes around 30-40 min for the same sheet thickness (10mm). - -Since PS is way quicker to bend than HDPE or PP we think that bending machines with a heated sword on top that goes inside the material could work better. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/bend-plastic-sheets/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/bend-plastic-sheets/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 670e3cf45..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/bend-plastic-sheets/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Time to bend - - Once the piece is warm enough it’s time to bend. If the piece is soft enough it shouldn’t take much effort to bend it. - -Take in consideration that if the plate is thicker than 10mm some deformation may appear on the sides of plate due compression of the material in the inner part of the radius. This could be solved with a half cut along the bending edge to reduce the amount of material compressed. - -In order to achieve a good bending, hold the piece in the desired position until the plate cools down. If the plate has been heated correctly, it will keep its shape. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/bend-plastic-sheets/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/bend-plastic-sheets/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7b2432ce5..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/bend-plastic-sheets/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### What makes a good bend - - The best condition for a good bend is good material. - -The quality of the plastic sheet affects the result. The more homogeneous the material is (one type of plastic from the same source) the better the bend. If the plate has multiple sources of HDPE flakes, delamination can occur and affect the result. - -The thickness of the material will also affect how much can we bend the plates. Thicker plates may not bend much without mayor deformations. Also, for thicker plates we may consider to reduce the temperature and increase the exposure timing in order to avoid the surface to degrade. - -Have fun bending and exploring new possibilities! :) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/bend-with-the-sheetpress/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/bend-with-the-sheetpress/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index f66a38f98..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/bend-with-the-sheetpress/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Bend with the Sheetpress - - -We have used the sheetpress as a tool for bending plastic sheets, solid surface materials or even extruded beams. The process is quite simple but might require some preparation to get the best results. Below are the steps taken to do this, although there is still room for further improvements! - -Tools needed: -- Sheet press -- Some kind of mould -- Clamps diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/bend-with-the-sheetpress/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/bend-with-the-sheetpress/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index f811692cb..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/bend-with-the-sheetpress/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Make a mould - - To have a consistent result it's best to use a mould for the bending. For bigger projects, sharp corners or intricate shapes a counter mould is recommended! This ensures the sheets is pushed in the right shape. - -It’s also important to keep in mind where the clamps will be placed so make sure there is space for the clamps to grab on to. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/bend-with-the-sheetpress/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/bend-with-the-sheetpress/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 77a00909a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/bend-with-the-sheetpress/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Temperature and timing - - The next step is to decide on temperature and timing. - -The right temperature depends on the plastic type and thickness. You can check in between to see if it bends far enough or experiment with smaller pieces before starting with bigger sheets. - -Below are some of the settings we have worked with. - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/bend-with-the-sheetpress/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/bend-with-the-sheetpress/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8cf4792fc..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/bend-with-the-sheetpress/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Place in the Sheetpress - - We placed the plastic on top of a 3mm sheet of mdf to make sure it doesn’t stick to the press. Once the sheet is in place move the bottom bed to the top so it’s almost closed (see picture). A distance of 1 cm should be ok. - -It is also possible to bend sheets larger than the sheetpress, as long as the bended part fits the press (second image is a 2x1 sheet). \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/bend-with-the-sheetpress/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/bend-with-the-sheetpress/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 32bfd9416..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/bend-with-the-sheetpress/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Bend the sheets! - - After heating up the sheets sufficiently it is time to move it to the mould. This requires some fast handling, since it quickly cools down again. Be sure to have all the clamps within reach! It also helps to do this with two persons. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/beyond-plastic-coaster-from-coffee-waste/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/beyond-plastic-coaster-from-coffee-waste/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index c53b42f34..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/beyond-plastic-coaster-from-coffee-waste/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Beyond plastic: coaster from coffee waste - - -This exponential coffee craze has led us to a staggering amount of coffee ground that is just wasted. Here is how you can turn that waste into something more valuable with all the simple ingredients and also appliances used. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/beyond-plastic-coaster-from-coffee-waste/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/beyond-plastic-coaster-from-coffee-waste/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7c913e81c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/beyond-plastic-coaster-from-coffee-waste/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Prepare all the ingredients - - Prep all the ingredients now as the cooking process occurs quickly. For this particular brick and mold, I use a mixture of 7 tbsp of tapioca starch, 10 tbsp of coffee ground waste, 1 tbsp of vinegar, and 180 ml of water. However, different blends can create different brick characteristics, so try various ratios for different results. The tapioca starch acts as a binding agent while the coffee ground is the “filler†and the dye. Mix all the ingredients well until there are no lumps in the mixture. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/beyond-plastic-coaster-from-coffee-waste/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/beyond-plastic-coaster-from-coffee-waste/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 82d627b4a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/beyond-plastic-coaster-from-coffee-waste/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Cooking process - - This process is fast so get into high gear! Cook the mixture on low heat while constantly stirring it until it thickens. Once the mixture has thickened, turn off the heat, and the cooking process is done. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/beyond-plastic-coaster-from-coffee-waste/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/beyond-plastic-coaster-from-coffee-waste/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 18ebe807e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/beyond-plastic-coaster-from-coffee-waste/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Mold your mixture - - Transfer the thickened mixture to your mold. You can use wax or line the mold using wax paper to help release the mold when it has dried out. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/beyond-plastic-coaster-from-coffee-waste/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/beyond-plastic-coaster-from-coffee-waste/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index fa7f44667..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/beyond-plastic-coaster-from-coffee-waste/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Waiting Game - - Let the mixture dry into a solid piece at room temperature. This process can take from 2 up to 4 days depending on the size of the mold and the thickness of the brick. After it already forms into a solid brick, pull the brick out of the mold and dry it further until the brick is as hard as desired. You can also speed up this process by using an oven to quickly dry the brick. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/bicycle-powered-plastic-shredderreseach/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/bicycle-powered-plastic-shredderreseach/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 6ae1efe37..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/bicycle-powered-plastic-shredderreseach/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Bicycle Powered Plastic Shredder[Reseach] - - -Introduction -So as the past months the picture showing above my Research Output that i’ve been working with its called Bicycle Powered Plastic Shredder😊i started working with it since, i think December🤔 when my Research title that ive submitted and approve by my teacher that is the time when i was started gathering information about how to built it and then when i was looking at some source i found David Hakkens master kit all the needs and information and blueprint are there so Thank You Mr.Dave Hakkens😇 so i use a design of blades that shown in Master kit on how to build a Shredder machine i only use the Blades Design nothing else then i focus on designing my own bicycle shredder i gather more data from other reseacher then as my foundation literature i found Katharinaelleke work at Dave Hakkens Community she design a bicycle powered plastic shredder too😊 then more and more challenge comes to my workplace because of lack of other component that i needed in building it so i have lot of option and finding ways to make it possible to make i also equipment Like Grinder, Impact Drill and Welding Machine😠so the time passes i also incounter lot of difficulties building it because my twin brother have dengue fever and the deadline of the submission of the output is nearly next that week and i have to present it then after that thank God Because my Twin Brother is Safe he is my Group mate in research and we are only two working with it, its almost 3 months gathering and building that Bicycle Powered Plasctic Shredder but yes we make it till the Deadline and Im Happy Becauae they really appriciate it even we are two members only they are proud and thats the Help of you Guys About this Dave Hakkens Community Thank you So Much😇 Godbless us all and this Coming Next will be the Final Defence and im testing it now on Plastic like HDPE and LDPE i will observe on how they Shred, Lets make a World a better place♥ï¸âœ¨ Lets Make Impossible to make it possible🥀 \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/bicycle-powered-plastic-shredderreseach/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/bicycle-powered-plastic-shredderreseach/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index b78fb49b0..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/bicycle-powered-plastic-shredderreseach/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Building a Shredder - - I Construct a blade using master kit of Mr.Dave Hakkens and its made of alluminum only \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/bicycle-powered-plastic-shredderreseach/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/bicycle-powered-plastic-shredderreseach/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 1cfabee17..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/bicycle-powered-plastic-shredderreseach/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Building the Shredder and getting ready to attach it to Bicycle - - This shows how i build the Shredder and modify it thanks to Katharinaelleke at forums of David Hakkens i found her work and i use it as my Foundation literature \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/bicycle-powered-plastic-shredderreseach/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/bicycle-powered-plastic-shredderreseach/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 35bc6cabf..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/bicycle-powered-plastic-shredderreseach/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Testing and Improving - - the work is done it can shred plastic using your two legs powered by mass weight so it can transport more force in Shredder \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/bicycle-shredder-v2/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/bicycle-shredder-v2/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index fb7be7709..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/bicycle-shredder-v2/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Bicycle Shredder V2 - - -In this how-to we’re giving you an overview about the construction of our bicycle shredder. One and a half years ago we made the first video about how to build a bicycle shredder. Since then, we made further adjustments and are now proud to present you the second version of the machine (with a much better documentation). \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/bicycle-shredder-v2/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/bicycle-shredder-v2/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 31df5e78a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/bicycle-shredder-v2/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Get ready! - - In the download package you find a lot of files and drawings. At first sight it might be overwhelming, but don’t be afraid, we’re taking care of you ;-). -In addition to the download-kit, the following steps will give you further information, why the shredder is built the way it is. Furthermore a short introduction video and an assembling video is in the making to get a better understanding about the construction. Stay tuned! - -Download-Link: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/xlts122wcb905q6/AABRgMZTki8gH1NqQ5SvOS-Ia?dl=0 \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/bicycle-shredder-v2/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/bicycle-shredder-v2/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 984460faa..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/bicycle-shredder-v2/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Cutting Mill - - Nearly all low speed shredders we saw in the community or around the internet were huge, heavy or sometimes not even working proper and efficient. Using high speed instead, we have the power of inertia :-). So we decided to shred plastic with human power at high speed. -There are different ways to build the axle. We decided to spend a bit more money on standard parts to reduce costs as machining and post machining on the lathe. That’s why we use those span sockets. However, we are aware that these components are not available in every country in the world. Take a look on the possibilities and competencies around you, it is also possible to manufacture the axle in a different way. - - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/bicycle-shredder-v2/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/bicycle-shredder-v2/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 85bbb5f8d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/bicycle-shredder-v2/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Material Lock - - Shredding plastic with the bicycle shredder - the knives of the cutting mill should run at high speed. To ensure a safe and stable shredding process, we needed a way to get the plastic into the cutting mill without opening it. In the past we worked with several versions of a pipe lock. Finally, we dismissed the pipe lock because of malfunctions. That's why we developed a more classic and simple version of a save hopper. The downside of the new version is the huge size and weight compared to the old one. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/bicycle-shredder-v2/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/bicycle-shredder-v2/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index f50e16907..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/bicycle-shredder-v2/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Sieve and Collection Box - - The sieve and collection box is nothing really special, just bended and welded metal sheets. We recommend using a sieve with holes about 5 - 8 mm in diameter. Very small holes will turn the plastic nearly into dust. Don't go too thin with the thickness of the metal sheet. It is important for stability and the locking system! 1,5 mm are a good size. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/bicycle-shredder-v2/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/bicycle-shredder-v2/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 272c666c9..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/bicycle-shredder-v2/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Friction Wheel - - The friction wheel transfers the speed from the rear wheel to the cutting mill. We use plywood for the wheel because we can mill it with our own cnc machine. Nethertheless there are definitely better materials for the friction wheel, for example something out of plastic. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/bicycle-shredder-v2/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/bicycle-shredder-v2/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 675da24fb..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/bicycle-shredder-v2/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Steel Frame - - Building the steel frame requires proper knowledge and experience in welding and working with metal. If you’re new in the game, look for someone with experience in metalwork.To simplify the welding process we prepared gauges -> plywood sheets to keep the right distances between the steel tubes and some big 45° angles. - -Before welding everything make sure everything is drilled and milled into the steel tubes. Afterwards it's a bit tricky to get them to the right places! - -Another advice: welding the m16 nuts; make sure the two nuts are in one alignment. That's important to clamp the rear-wheel right in place. We take a long steel bar (14mm in diameter). diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/bicycle-shredder-v2/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/bicycle-shredder-v2/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2b24048a8..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/bicycle-shredder-v2/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Height Adjustment - - The height adjustment is one of the fastest things you can realise :-). -For the turning knob we welded a small steel strip on a clamping ring. The rest of it are just ready-to-use standard parts. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/bicycle-shredder-v2/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/bicycle-shredder-v2/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index ae1f4f7ea..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/bicycle-shredder-v2/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Wheel Mount - - The wheel-mount is a lot of lathe work but not too complex! -For the turning knob we lasered a part out of a thick metal sheet and welded it on a nut. Instead of a lasered part you can realise the turning knob as well by some steel strips and an angle grinder. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/bicycle-shredder-v2/step_8.md b/resources/howtos-oa/bicycle-shredder-v2/step_8.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8149b101a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/bicycle-shredder-v2/step_8.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,13 +0,0 @@ -### Safety Add-ons - - -Workshops with different kinds of people are our daily business. That is why we care a lot about safety! -To ensure an easy and understandable handling, a good way is to use our color system. -- Green: Everybody can touch/use it. -- Orange: The team can touch/use it. -- Red: Keep your body away from it, it's f***ing dangerous! -In addition to the color system we use common warning signs and tips and tricks written on the machine. - -Furthermore we build safety add-ons, such as the belt protection and the shaft protection. - -If you have ideas how to make the machine safer and better, feel free to share it with us and the community! diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/bike-pedals--grips-mould/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/bike-pedals--grips-mould/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 6db1734cd..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/bike-pedals--grips-mould/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Bike Pedals & Grips Mould - - -In this How-To I describe how I made the mold. -Injecting the pedal is fast but making the mold takes time. I suggest you to mill the mold if you have the possibility because I welded the mold and this is time consuming. You can download the 3D model and make your own version. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/bike-pedals--grips-mould/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/bike-pedals--grips-mould/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index d07d78b99..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/bike-pedals--grips-mould/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,20 +0,0 @@ -### Tools - - - Injection machine -- angle grinder (cutting and grinding discs) -- vise -- flat file, round file (opional: small grinder rotary tool like Proxxon or Dremel) -- drill press -- clamps (at leaste 3) -- welding machine (only for pedals) & welding clothes -- radius scriber (a marker works well too) -- protection glasses -- respirator with A1 P1 filter (hot plastic fumes and particles filter) -- safety gloves -- ear protection -- sanding paper (grit size around 80) (optional: electric sander) -- measuring tape -- square edge -- M6, M8 thread tap -- drill bit 4.3; 6.4; 6.8; 8.4; 11; 20 ; 22.5 mm (if you don't have the 22.5, use your round file like I did) -- tweezers (optional, for ball bearings assembly) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/bike-pedals--grips-mould/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/bike-pedals--grips-mould/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 60e48d4b7..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/bike-pedals--grips-mould/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,14 +0,0 @@ -### Material for the grips - - Plastic waste: I made experiments with polystyrene (PS) and polyethylene (PE). PS looks more strong but I had only black one so the presented objects are made of PE. The pedal volume is 145 cm^3 and the grip 84 cm^3. - -For the grips: - -- metal tube (internal diameter = diameter you want for the grips, big ones are more comfortable. I chose 35mm. Lenght = lenght you want for the two grips - 3 mm. I have 2 x 130 mm so my grips are 127 leght) -- metal sheet (steel 4 mm thick; 180 x 60 mm) -- threaded rod (M6 x 450; M8 x 150 mm) -- 6 nuts M6 -- metal cylinder (diameter 22.3 length 111 mm) (standard handlebar have diameter 22 mm so take just a little bit more) -- 1 bolt M8 x 20 -- 1 washer M20 -- 1 nut M8 \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/bike-pedals--grips-mould/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/bike-pedals--grips-mould/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 381746dca..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/bike-pedals--grips-mould/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Material for the pedals - - - metal sheet (steel 4mm thick; 120 x 240; 26 x 700 mm) -- welding rod (2 or 3 mm) -- 3 bolts M6 x 10 (any size would works but you need the corresponding drill bits) -- 2 pedal axles with ball bearings, washers and nuts -- wood (for positioning during welding, optional) (pedal size) -- 4 bolts and nuts M4 x 40 (only length matter) -- 24 setscrews M6 x 8 \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/bike-pedals--grips-mould/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/bike-pedals--grips-mould/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index f1550b1a8..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/bike-pedals--grips-mould/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,12 +0,0 @@ -### Grip mold: cut the parts - - Cut the tube at the length you want for your grips (mine are 130 mm). -Cut four hexagones with side length 33 mm. -In each of them, drill three holes in the corners. -In the first one, drill another hexagone with 10 mm side length in the center. -In the second one, drill a 5 mm hole in the center. -In the third one, drill a 22.5 mm hole in the center. -In the fourth one, drill a 8 mm hole in the center. -Cut three M5 and one M8 threaded rods at 150 mm. -Cut the cylinder at the length you want (111 mm for me). -Make a M8 x 20 threaded hole at the center of one cylinder side. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/bike-pedals--grips-mould/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/bike-pedals--grips-mould/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 86dd452c8..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/bike-pedals--grips-mould/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11 +0,0 @@ -### Pedal mold: cut the parts - - Cut two squares 120 x 120 mm in the metal sheet. -Make holes in the four corners (4.3 mm in my case). -Scribe the pedal shape on one square face. -Drill the injection hole where you want it(I chose diameter 5, in the center). -Cut a band of 26 mm height and at least 300 length and another of 26 (precisely) x 340 (at least). -Cut the 300 band in 15.6 (2x); 24 (2x); 18 (2x); 33 (2x); 25 (2x); 43.4 (1x). -Cut the 340 band in 40 (2x); 56 (4x); 27.7 (1x). -Cut also six small pieces in order to wedge the mold part together (5 x 10 mm). -Cut three more to make the triangle and trapeze center (25 x 7 (2x); 4 x 35 (1x)). \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/bike-pedals--grips-mould/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/bike-pedals--grips-mould/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index dde09a538..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/bike-pedals--grips-mould/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Make the Pedal Mold: Weld It - - Before welding you need to add an angle (around 2 degrees) on each vertical face of the wooden parts (triangle, trapezes and pedal). This will ease the extracting process. I accomplished this with the sanding machine. - -Weld the pedal perimeter: Clamp the wooden pedal on your welding surface and clamp the edges you want to weld (cf. picture). Continue with the other parts always ensuring that your parts are well against the ground. It was my first arc welding job and you can notice the poor result but it doesn't matter, it just extend the grinding time. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/bike-pedals--grips-mould/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/bike-pedals--grips-mould/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index 27ba191b4..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/bike-pedals--grips-mould/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,15 +0,0 @@ -### Inject the Grips - - Turn the heater on. -Assemble the cylinder with the basis hexagon (Nbr. 4). -Add the three threaded rod. -Add the washer around the cylinder. -Add the tube. -Add the top hexagon with the injecting hole (Nbr. 2). -Add the top hexagon with the hexagonal hole (Nbr. 1). -Secure it with the nuts. -Start filling the machine with plastic. -Wait 5 min. -inject. - -Remove the grip using the M8 threaded rod and nut. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/bike-pedals--grips-mould/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/bike-pedals--grips-mould/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index 1823d4fe3..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/bike-pedals--grips-mould/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Inject the Pedals - - Heat the machine. -Fill with old plastic. -Inject. -Open the mold. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/bike-pedals--grips-mould/step_8.md b/resources/howtos-oa/bike-pedals--grips-mould/step_8.md deleted file mode 100644 index c79779b7d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/bike-pedals--grips-mould/step_8.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Finish and Assembly - - Secure the pedal in the jig. -Mount the 11 mm drill bit and align it with the pedal center. -Secure the jig to the drill. -Drill through all the pedal. -Mount the 20mm drill bit. -Drill the bike side of the pedal 8 mm depth. -Flip the pedal. -Drill the outer part of the pedal 15 mm depth (measured from the flat face, not the top triangle). \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/boards-made-from-marine-litter/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/boards-made-from-marine-litter/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 117dfde51..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/boards-made-from-marine-litter/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Boards made from marine litter - - -Creation and manufacture of boards or panels using as raw material recycled polypropylene plastic and fishing nets recovered by fishermen from the coast of Spain. - -Learn more about creation and manufacture of products with this material here https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/products-made-from-marine-litter - - -This is a project developed jointly with Vertidos Cero Association and AIMPLAS. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/boards-made-from-marine-litter/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/boards-made-from-marine-litter/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 27ea25cec..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/boards-made-from-marine-litter/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Mares Circulares - - Mares Circulares is a network project launched in 2018 with a triple objective: to clean up the coasts, protected areas and seabed of Spain and Portugal, promote recycling and boost the circular economy. - -We have used some 5,200 kilos of garbage caught by volunteer fishermen in their nets when the debris was floating in the water. - -The non-PET plastic was then sent to the Instituto Tecnológico de Plástico (AIMPLAS), whose technology was able to transform it into usable material through various processes. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/boards-made-from-marine-litter/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/boards-made-from-marine-litter/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index a0341381c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/boards-made-from-marine-litter/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Preparation of material - - The processed marine litter and fishing nets arrive in our workshop clean and crushed, ready to be used in the heat press. - -We mix it with the base material (polypropylene) taking care about the desired proportions and quantities. It depends of texture/color we look for or thickness we need. - -Before take the plastic on the sheetpress we use a kind of industrial dryer to remove moisture. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/boards-made-from-marine-litter/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/boards-made-from-marine-litter/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index c738029ab..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/boards-made-from-marine-litter/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Manufacture of boards - - After having the material dry and mixed it's ready to take it to sheetpress. - -Our sheetpress has been the result of our own work, we reused a carpentry press and modified to include the entire heating and automation system. - -For the elaboration of boards this sheetpress allows us to manufacture boards of 220cm x 90cm and from 1cm to 3cm of thickness. - -This machine reaches an average temperature of 180° centigrade to melt the plastic. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/boards-made-from-marine-litter/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/boards-made-from-marine-litter/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9b81dc8b1..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/boards-made-from-marine-litter/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Final details - - As with any plastic processing process, the resulting parts have a surplus on the edges that has to be removed. - -When we take the board out of the sheetpress we must try to have a large space to store them without deforming or bending. - -With this type of boards we have the possibility to manufacture countless products, decorative, furniture and much more. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/brick-mould/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/brick-mould/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index d448c3eb3..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/brick-mould/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Brick mould - - -Recycled plastic has the potential to replace more conventional and wasteful building materials such as hollow blocks. In this How-to, you will learn how to assemble the mould for the extruded plastic brick, ready for production. - -This brick was developed with the Extrusion Pro machine. -Learn here how to build it: \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/brick-mould/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/brick-mould/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9181e06f1..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/brick-mould/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Download templates to send for fabrication - - Download the laser cut kit. Then send for fabrication at your local laser cutting service. Note there are three bricks, one full brick and one two-third brick and a one-third brick. All of these are required to build a complete wall. - -Before sending to downloaded dwg files to your metal laser cutting service ensure they understand that your drawings are in MM. - -Each brick has tolerances included, but may be specific to your supplier. Before ordering, check that the tolerances conform. In this brick, we use a tolerance of 0.5mm. - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/brick-mould/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/brick-mould/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index c830063a7..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/brick-mould/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Delivery of laser cut parts - - Upon delivery, you should receive various pieces with varying thicknesses. It is good practice to check your parts immediately (compare with drawing) in case any errors have been made. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/brick-mould/step_10.md b/resources/howtos-oa/brick-mould/step_10.md deleted file mode 100644 index 00388d458..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/brick-mould/step_10.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Prepare the male mould (Part C) - - The male part of the mould is the final section but is probably the most complicated to assemble. Take these stages slow. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/brick-mould/step_11.md b/resources/howtos-oa/brick-mould/step_11.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7162d4f95..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/brick-mould/step_11.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Weld each hump individually - - The main section comes in many parts that we are going to tackle one at a time. The first is the humps. There are two and they are identical. Clamp them together and weld them along the seams. Preserving the corners. - -Like in step 8, use an angle grinder and sander to achieve round and smooth corners. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/brick-mould/step_12.md b/resources/howtos-oa/brick-mould/step_12.md deleted file mode 100644 index 6a85c647b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/brick-mould/step_12.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Weld the base - - Using part CA5 align parts CE5 and CF5, clamp and weld. Avoid welding CA5 at this point. - -You should be left with a perfect frame to attach the two humps too. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/brick-mould/step_13.md b/resources/howtos-oa/brick-mould/step_13.md deleted file mode 100644 index d7fe79b03..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/brick-mould/step_13.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Welding the humps to the base - - Now place the humps on top of the base frame and clamp them tight together. - -First weld around the outside, then turn the mould over and weld the point where the two humps meet to avoid plastic leaking in the future. - -Finish by grinding and sanding the welds again for a smooth surface and round edges. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/brick-mould/step_14.md b/resources/howtos-oa/brick-mould/step_14.md deleted file mode 100644 index 70fbeedcd..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/brick-mould/step_14.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Adding the support structure - - Take part CA5 and clamp to the base, Tack welding on the inside only baring in mind that parts CB5, CC5 and CCD will be placed inside. Once all parts are placed inside weld all accessible ribs in full. Clamping like previous steps. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/brick-mould/step_15.md b/resources/howtos-oa/brick-mould/step_15.md deleted file mode 100644 index 5039cf671..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/brick-mould/step_15.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Add the quick release nozzle - - Take part DA10 and place it onto the surface of AD5 in the marked out space. Use an 8mm drill bit to ensure perfect alignment of the holes and weld only on the shortest of the two sides. Then place part DB5 ensuring it fits with your extrusion adapter. (See Extrusion Adapter How To). Again welding only the top sections. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/brick-mould/step_16.md b/resources/howtos-oa/brick-mould/step_16.md deleted file mode 100644 index e17863d94..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/brick-mould/step_16.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Adding bolt release mechanism - - To ensure we can always take the mould apart we need to install a set of bolts that prevent the mould from being stuck together. To do this, we disassemble the top section of the mould (Part A). Taking part AD5x1, thread a bolt through the bottom of the two 12mm holes and tighten the nut until it is placed firmly on the surface of the part. Then weld the nut that is on the top surface of the mould, ensuring no weld touches the nut. - -Repeat with this process with part AA5. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/brick-mould/step_17.md b/resources/howtos-oa/brick-mould/step_17.md deleted file mode 100644 index 5c5c96ee3..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/brick-mould/step_17.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Fully assemble - - Fully assemble all parts, connecting A to B using bolts. and you should be left with something like this. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/brick-mould/step_18.md b/resources/howtos-oa/brick-mould/step_18.md deleted file mode 100644 index 6b21b16b0..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/brick-mould/step_18.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Paint - - The mould is almost ready. Depending on if you purchased a Stainless Steel mould or Mild steel, you may want to combat rust with a nice coat of paint. - -You will need something that can handle high temperatures above 300c, we use paint for fireplaces or engine parts. Spraying only the external surfaces of the mould. To protect the inside of the mould we use light rubbing of oil after every use. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/brick-mould/step_19.md b/resources/howtos-oa/brick-mould/step_19.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8349fc25e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/brick-mould/step_19.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Ready to make bricks!? - - Well done, now you’re ready to extrude! - -Find advice for the extruding process in the How-to “Extrude into closed mouldsâ€: -👉 https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/extrude-into-a-closed-mould - -And learn how to "Build brick structures": -👉 https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/build-brick-structures diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/brick-mould/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/brick-mould/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2f99b7d81..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/brick-mould/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Preparation of parts - - Before assembling your mould for welding, all rough edges created by the laser cutting will need to be removed so the mould can be assembled tightly. To do this we used a handheld sander however this can easily be done with a Dremel or by hand with a file. Take extra care not to damage the sharp corners of the metal. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/brick-mould/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/brick-mould/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index ccb58a16d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/brick-mould/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Assembly - - The mould comes in 3 key parts. The female top section of the mould requires no welding and is made of interlocking parts that are bolted together. The male lower section is completely welded. Each piece is also named very specifically to help you order and assemble. These names will also be engraved onto the mould to help you assemble. - -For example AB5x2. - “A†- First letter defines what part group it belongs to. -“B†- Second letter defines which part it is in that group. -“5†- First number defines the thickness of the metal in mm the part is made from. -“x2†- Specifies the number of pieces required per order to complete the mould. - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/brick-mould/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/brick-mould/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 1b2a257a6..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/brick-mould/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Assembly of the top section (Part A) - - Each corner requires 1 bolt and 3 nuts. The bolt should be 45-50 mm long, the nuts are 10mm. Place 6 bolts through the top plate (AD5) and add an additional two nuts to each. This should be followed by the interlocking parts (AB5 & AC5) followed by the bottom plate (AA5). The ideal distance of the two plates (AA5 & AD5) is 20 mm. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/brick-mould/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/brick-mould/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 970bbf8fd..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/brick-mould/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Put sides together (Part B) - - It is easiest to weld the supporting ribs (BB5, BC5, BE5 & BF5) to the 4 side plates before assembling the sides. To do this place the main plate on the welding table and clamp the ribs individually as you weld. Ensuring the main plate remains flat and does not warp. You will need to use (BG5) to ensure even spacing at the top and bottom. - -Repeat these steps for the other 3 sides. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/brick-mould/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/brick-mould/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index b921773a3..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/brick-mould/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Internal welding - - Once all of the ribs have been tacked, turn the plates over and weld (while clamped) the groves. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/brick-mould/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/brick-mould/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index c3966678e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/brick-mould/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Smoothing the inside - - Once cooled, grind away the welds ensuring the surface on the inside is completely smooth. Take care to not over grind the weld. Then sand the surface removing any finer imperfections. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/brick-mould/step_8.md b/resources/howtos-oa/brick-mould/step_8.md deleted file mode 100644 index d9470b4ae..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/brick-mould/step_8.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Putting the sides together - - Once all 4 sides have been sanded on the inside, place them together as seen in the diagram and weld them together. A clamp may be useful in this process. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/brick-mould/step_9.md b/resources/howtos-oa/brick-mould/step_9.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7da7e3222..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/brick-mould/step_9.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Adding the bottom and top frame - - Once all 4 sides have been welded. Place part number (BG5) on the bottom and part (BI5) on the top. This may need a gentle hammering to fit, but must not be forced otherwise it may bend. - -Once in place clamp together. Ensuring the inside surface is smooth and weld any external surface. - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/broom-hanger-mould/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/broom-hanger-mould/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4c3090590..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/broom-hanger-mould/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Broom hanger mould - - -A clamp to hang brooms and mops in the wall. Here are the steps to make its mold for the injection machine. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/broom-hanger-mould/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/broom-hanger-mould/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 604389616..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/broom-hanger-mould/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Get your materials and prepare the work - - Make sure you have all your materials ready and go through the attached drawings and steps to understand the full picture of the process. This will help you to work more efficiently and accurate. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/broom-hanger-mould/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/broom-hanger-mould/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 11074f724..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/broom-hanger-mould/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Make the connection piece - - With all the parts in the bag, let’s start cutting the steel pipe nipple (no. 7) in half to make the mold nozzle. -Get the metal sheet (no. 8) and turn a hole in the center with a diameter to fit one half of the steel pipe nipple in tightly. -Weld the parts no. 7 and no. 8 together. Then chamfer the welded edge on the lathe. - -(Drawings page 3-5) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/broom-hanger-mould/step_10.md b/resources/howtos-oa/broom-hanger-mould/step_10.md deleted file mode 100644 index 43fb46c20..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/broom-hanger-mould/step_10.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Make end caps - - Fix each cap (no. 4) in place and drill four 5mm diameter holes. All through the cap and 25mm deep into the female and male mold parts. Tap each hole of the female and male parts with a ¼†thread. -On the caps, re-drill the holes up to ¼†and fix them with the bolts (no. 12). - -(Drawings page 13) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/broom-hanger-mould/step_11.md b/resources/howtos-oa/broom-hanger-mould/step_11.md deleted file mode 100644 index d56790fc3..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/broom-hanger-mould/step_11.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Cut the sides for the closing screws - - Final step! With the hand saw, cut slots (two per side) for the bolts to fit in and out more easily. For closing the mold, four bolts and butterfly nuts (no. 13-14) will be used. - -(Drawings page 14) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/broom-hanger-mould/step_12.md b/resources/howtos-oa/broom-hanger-mould/step_12.md deleted file mode 100644 index 98268924c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/broom-hanger-mould/step_12.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Mould done! - - And you’re done! Here is your broom hanger mold, it's time to inject. -Flexible plastics like HDPE and PP work better for the broom hangers as they won't crack during use. - -To open the mold, us a flat screwdriver to pull apart the parts gently. To take out the plastic product, use the flat screwdriver or a putty knife to open and release it from the male mold. It's easier if you do this process when the plastic part is still hot, but remember to close it back to its original shape after releasing. - - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/broom-hanger-mould/step_13.md b/resources/howtos-oa/broom-hanger-mould/step_13.md deleted file mode 100644 index f35bc5c83..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/broom-hanger-mould/step_13.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Happy hanging :) - - To install the broom hanger on the wall, drill a hole and fix it with a wall plug and a screw. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/broom-hanger-mould/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/broom-hanger-mould/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index c164a51ab..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/broom-hanger-mould/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Make the female mold - - Now we’ll make the female mold. Take the aluminium block (no. 1) and drill a 1†deep hole in the center of face A of the block. Start with smaller bits until you reach the inch. Then, mill face B to open a channel of 1†wide. Use a round point bit to get a better quality finish. - -(Drawings page 6) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/broom-hanger-mould/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/broom-hanger-mould/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4782a1f1e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/broom-hanger-mould/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Plastic entrance hole - - For the plastic entrance, drill a 5mm hole through the center of your female mold. - -(Drawings page 6) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/broom-hanger-mould/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/broom-hanger-mould/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8765d2761..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/broom-hanger-mould/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Male mold part 1 - - The male mold is made of three parts. Get your aluminium parts no. 2, 3 and 5 ready and start with the aluminium rod (no. 5). Mill one side of the rod to a height of 3,17mm and a width of 14,19mm. - -(Drawings page 7) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/broom-hanger-mould/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/broom-hanger-mould/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 6cb9d12bf..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/broom-hanger-mould/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Male mold part 2 - - Now, get part no. 3 and mill one face on an angle of 15°. Then, mill the other face to an opposite angle of 15°, until the width of the narrow face matches the face of part 5 (see last image). That should be 14,19mm in the narrower face and 21mm in the wider face. - -(Drawings page 7) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/broom-hanger-mould/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/broom-hanger-mould/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index 69ba0b610..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/broom-hanger-mould/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Male mold assembly - - To assemble the male mold, align the center of the previous parts with the center of part no. 2, press with clamps and drill two 3/16†deep holes. -On part no. 5, drill flat countersinks for the screws (no. 9) head. -Fix the three parts with the button head screws, washers and nuts (no. 9-11). - -(Drawings pages 8-9) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/broom-hanger-mould/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/broom-hanger-mould/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8c476850a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/broom-hanger-mould/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Drill the conical guides holes - - Align in place the female and the male parts of the mold and fix them with a small press or locking pliers. Apply the the hole positions from the drawings to the face of part no. 2 and drill two 9,5mm diameter holes. Drill through no. 2 and 1cm deep into no.1. - -(Drawings page 10) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/broom-hanger-mould/step_8.md b/resources/howtos-oa/broom-hanger-mould/step_8.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4fc51464d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/broom-hanger-mould/step_8.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Conical guides - - Turn your round metal bar (no. 6) to create the conical guides and saw a channel on one side to let the air flow out when inserting. With a vice or a hammer, insert the conical guides into part no.1. - -(Drawings page 11) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/broom-hanger-mould/step_9.md b/resources/howtos-oa/broom-hanger-mould/step_9.md deleted file mode 100644 index aeac8898d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/broom-hanger-mould/step_9.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Connect the mould - - Fix the nozzle, the female and the male parts with a small press or locking pliers, and drill four 9/32†holes through the corners of both parts. -Close the mold and turn the ends to get an even surface between the male and the female parts. - -(Drawings page 12) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/buckle_making-film/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/buckle_making-film/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 841f710a4..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/buckle_making-film/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Buckle_Making film - - -Precious Plastic and NoPlasticSunday have collaborated to create this buckle. The buckle and its mold will be openly shared as open-source, allowing everyone to freely use them. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/buckle_making-film/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/buckle_making-film/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 5e9f1290b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/buckle_making-film/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Product Modeling - - We conducted research on the structure of a buckle tightly interlocked and proceeded with 3D modeling to create a form suitable for injection molding. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/buckle_making-film/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/buckle_making-film/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 103e54389..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/buckle_making-film/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### 3D Printing Mock-up - - We make a physical-sized prototype using 3D printing to verify the functionality of the product. After confirming the 3D printed prototype, we proceed with mold production. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/buckle_making-film/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/buckle_making-film/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 821d3a612..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/buckle_making-film/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Injection Mold Design - - We design the mold for the product to be injected. We inspect the structure to ensure there are no issues with deforming the injected material. Typically, molds consist of two parts, but depending on the form, they might be made with three or more parts. We place and form the runners, which are the pathways through which plastic is injected into the mold, according to the product's specifications. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/buckle_making-film/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/buckle_making-film/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4e8249fb7..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/buckle_making-film/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Inject Mold Making - - We use QDM molds made of aluminum material. Using CNC machines, we process aluminum to create the molds. After making the molds, we conduct injection tests and sometimes undergo modifications as needed. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/buckle_making-film/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/buckle_making-film/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index d31889892..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/buckle_making-film/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Recycled Plastic Injecting - - NoPlasticSunday sorts discarded plastic waste by color, crushes it, and turns it into material. We've created 20 sample colors for recycled plastic. We prepare for injection by blending materials based on desired color combinations. -Setting the machine at around 250 degrees, we press a button to inject the plastic into the mold. After the cylinder goes down, we wait for about 5 to 10 seconds before removing the mold to make sure the plastic fill the mold. -As we pening the mold, we can see buckles injected with a colorful marbled pattern of recycled plastic. After removing the plastic from the mold, we trim the runners. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-bicycle-powered-shredder/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-bicycle-powered-shredder/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 81ca5c9e6..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-bicycle-powered-shredder/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Build a bicycle powered shredder! - - -In this How-to, you will learn how we constructed our bicycle powered plastic shredder, and how you can built your own! Not only does it give you a relatively cheap way to shred plastic at zero operating costs, but it also gives you freedom from the electrical grid, all while keeping you fit and healthy! - -In step 1 you will find a detailed construction plan and all the files necessary. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-bicycle-powered-shredder/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-bicycle-powered-shredder/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 79b078bec..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-bicycle-powered-shredder/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Open the construction manual - - Via this link: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1m8Bq35N_N-nw5llw7T16WAWR9GLb5i_L?usp=sharing , you can find a very detailed construction plan and bill of materials, along with technical drawings, laser cutting files and more. This should be more than enough for you to build your own bicycle powered shredder :) - - -We could not use the supporting files tab, since our files exceeded the maximum file size amount. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-bicycle-powered-shredder/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-bicycle-powered-shredder/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 05daddcd1..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-bicycle-powered-shredder/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Built or buy the shredder box - - Precious Plastics has very detailed plans on how to built a shredder box. On the Precious Plastics Bazar you can also buy one. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-bicycle-powered-shredder/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-bicycle-powered-shredder/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 968551197..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-bicycle-powered-shredder/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Built the custom axle - - With this custom flywheel and axle, you can create forward momentum to shred the plastic. The flywheel will also provide a perfect base to connect the gears talked about in step 5. All the cutting files and the technical drawings can be found in the files in step 1. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-bicycle-powered-shredder/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-bicycle-powered-shredder/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index feea892fb..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-bicycle-powered-shredder/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Shredder stand and container - - Built the shredder stand, which will provide a raised platform for the shredded pieces to fall out, and for safety reasons. In the construction plan we explained how you could optimise this stand, since we encountered some problems with ours. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-bicycle-powered-shredder/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-bicycle-powered-shredder/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index ed09e5f2b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-bicycle-powered-shredder/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Attaching everything together - - We tried to maxime the power output, through two ratio transmissions, which come to a total of 1:4.6. This will deliver 4.6 more power at the expense of lower rotational speed. A large gear is attached to shredder box and a large crankset is attached to the custom flywheel. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-bicycle-powered-shredder/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-bicycle-powered-shredder/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index cf3d02605..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-bicycle-powered-shredder/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Let's start shredding plastic! - - Now with the finished result, let's start shredding some plastic! and lose a few pounds along the way :) - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-fishing-canoe/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-fishing-canoe/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2cda75fe9..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-fishing-canoe/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Build a Fishing Canoe - - -YAP YAP! -At the Flipflopi Project we piloted a first of its kind heritage boat building course, using waste plastic as the major construction material. As a major practical project the students built a local fishing dhow “Dau la Mwao†which is a very commonly used vessel and a doable size for a short boat building course. - -This how-to shows the process and learnings we made along the way â›µï¸ \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-fishing-canoe/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-fishing-canoe/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index b2e6d5ef6..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-fishing-canoe/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### First things first - - First sit back and watch the full process so you can get an idea :) - -Boatbuilding is a skill that needs a lot of practice and experience, but with this video and the following how-to steps, you might actually be able to build your own! â›µï¸ - -Let's see! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-fishing-canoe/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-fishing-canoe/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 619687a8a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-fishing-canoe/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Design Considerations - - For this boat, we took an example and measurement of an existing traditional fishing canoe and made designs for moulds to fabricate the required parts. - -Although we could design very differently (potentially more efficiently) with plastic, we decided to stick as much as possible to the original design, as this enables boatbuilders to use their traditional building approach and helps to teach and maintain their boatbuilding heritage. - -For efficient use of materials, our moulds were designed with multi-use in mind (so the L-shape rib can be used as an L-shape bracket to reinforce different parts in a bigger dhow, or a “Muli†mould was long enough to serve for the canoe as well as the slightly bigger Taxi dhow). Note, that this also resulted in heavier parts than necessarily required. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-fishing-canoe/step_10.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-fishing-canoe/step_10.md deleted file mode 100644 index 15c308dc3..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-fishing-canoe/step_10.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Farkumu - - Materials -- V-shape ribs "Farkumu" (2x) - -- The V-shape beam sits on the Bitana. To join them, make a lap joint between Bitana and Farkumu. -- Join them with a bolt through the keel \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-fishing-canoe/step_11.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-fishing-canoe/step_11.md deleted file mode 100644 index bd38bd12f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-fishing-canoe/step_11.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,14 +0,0 @@ -### Kinara (top hull) - - -THIS STEP TAKES A LOT OF TIME TO MAKE THE HULL FIT WELL. - -Material: 9x1,5" x 10pcs - -Start with Kinara (top plank) -- mark and cut the bevel according to Muli -- place plank in place and clamp it (we use our local technique "kisongo") -- if necessary, adjust the ribs, so they are aligned nicely -- fix in place with screws -- take the second piece, repeat fitting and cut a Z-joint to join the pieces -Do this on both sides, so the Kinara is all around the top. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-fishing-canoe/step_12.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-fishing-canoe/step_12.md deleted file mode 100644 index 19b9497bc..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-fishing-canoe/step_12.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Wajihi (rest of hull) - - Materials: 9x1.5" planks (6pcs) - -- finish the other rows with the same process -- in contrast to top plank (kinara), you can use a bevel joint between the planks instead of Z-joint --alternate the position of your joints as otherwise it creates a week point where all the joints are - -MAKE SURE ALL PLANKS ARE FITTED TIGHTLY, SO THERE IS AS LITTLE GAP AS POSSIBLE. -(you can use a saw in between to cut of uneven corners) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-fishing-canoe/step_13.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-fishing-canoe/step_13.md deleted file mode 100644 index e318454f3..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-fishing-canoe/step_13.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,17 +0,0 @@ -### Top locking - - Next step is to lock everything well in place with side strips and crossing beams - -Material: -- Tampisi: 2x3" planks (4pcs) -- Fundo la mongoti (crossing beam for the mast): 9x2" -- Fundo la nyuma (back crossing beam): 9x1.5" - -Process: -- we cut a step into the ribs to make the tampisi and firari sit flush on the sides -- place the tampisi onto the step and fix in place with screws -- place a the "fundo la mongoti" on top of the tampisi at 1/3 of the keel from the front -- place "fundo la nyuma" on top of the tampisi in the back (where desired) -- make lap joints between Tampisi + Fundos and bolt them together - - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-fishing-canoe/step_14.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-fishing-canoe/step_14.md deleted file mode 100644 index 528bb9717..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-fishing-canoe/step_14.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,16 +0,0 @@ -### Staha - - Staha is to reinforce the Muli to Kinara (and to provide sitting area and storage) - -Used materials: -- 9x1,5" plank -- 2x4" plank - -Process: -FRONT STAHA -- cut the top of the muli so its extending the line of the top plank -- place a 2x4" beam to support in a right angle to the center line as support -- cut planks to cover the front triangle of the boat - -BACK STAHA -- we simply fitted 2 planks to make a sitting base (and left a hole as it can be useful to fix ropes etc.) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-fishing-canoe/step_15.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-fishing-canoe/step_15.md deleted file mode 100644 index 39f58db4e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-fishing-canoe/step_15.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,16 +0,0 @@ -### Firari + Dufani - - Firari and Dufani are the top to finish off the top edges and reinforce the structure once more. - -Materials: Dufani (5x1", 4pcs), Firari (2.5x1", 4pcs) - -Process Firari: -- position the Firari at the top of the mataruma (and shave them so the Dufani can sit levelled) -- try to keep the distance between tampisi and firari parallel -- join the planks with a bevel joint and screw them in place - -Process Dufani: -- start by cutting the angle in the front so it attaches well into the front/back corner -- for bending the plank, go "pole pole" (slowly slowly): - clamp the first foot (30cm) and screw it in place, then bend the plank, screw the next foot, etc. until it is completely bent -- do the same from the other end and meet in the center with a bevel joint \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-fishing-canoe/step_16.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-fishing-canoe/step_16.md deleted file mode 100644 index 5fdf03e96..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-fishing-canoe/step_16.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Finish the base - - Time to turn your dhow upside down to finish the base! - -Important! -Don't forget to create a water channel on both sides for the water to pass through. (see photo) - -Cut your planks according to the shape of your base, and make sure to fit them with as little as gap as possible. - -Screw them onto the ribs. Base is done :) diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-fishing-canoe/step_17.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-fishing-canoe/step_17.md deleted file mode 100644 index 79df27991..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-fishing-canoe/step_17.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11 +0,0 @@ -### Finishing & Sealing - - Now last step remaining is to finish and seal the dhow, so no water can enter inside. - -- shave the excess corners of the planks to smoothen the surface of the hull -- we used the traditional corking with cotton and hit it inbetween the gaps of the planks with the "chembeo" -- to finalise, we topped up the kalafati with melted plastic with a heat gun to seal it completely (it's like plastic welding) -- with the plastic welding we also sealed the screws and other gaps - -NOTE: The plastic welding was done very low-tech and is to be tested! -We hope to test a proper plastic welding tool soon for the sealing of the hull and will share the results :) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-fishing-canoe/step_18.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-fishing-canoe/step_18.md deleted file mode 100644 index aebc6e6ef..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-fishing-canoe/step_18.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Testing & finalising hull - - Big moment! When you're done with the hull and first round of sealing, it's time to test: - -- turn the boat around -- launch it in the water (or fill it with water) -- observe where the water is passing through gaps to find any leakage -- finalise the sealing on those points \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-fishing-canoe/step_19.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-fishing-canoe/step_19.md deleted file mode 100644 index e54733181..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-fishing-canoe/step_19.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Rigging / Powering - - Alright, you're basically done! - -You can now decide how you want to power your boat: -With a motor, paddles, or a sail? - -We are sailors, so we obviously put a sail, with a rudder. (The mast and boom are traditional ones out of wood) -Additional bonus if you use a sail: Make it an eye catcher and use the opportunity to create awareness ✨ \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-fishing-canoe/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-fishing-canoe/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 759aeb7b1..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-fishing-canoe/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Mould making - - The custom moulds were designed in CAD and the drawings (you can find them in the download files) were sent to the be plasma cut out of 4mm steel sheets. - -The sides of the moulds were designed with alignment steps, to make assembly easier (due to an unclean cutting of the plasma cutter this resulted in a lot of manual post-processing work and unclean edges though). - -The rest was fabricated in-house: Assembling, bending, welding, drilling and bolting. To avoid swelling of the mould under pressure, reinforcement brackets were added to the sides. - -NOTE: For future welding jobs, we would cut the sides of the metal parts straight (without alignment steps), unless we are 100% sure about the quality of the cutting. This simplifies the process and even allows us to fabricate completely in-house, making the process more affordable at the same time. - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-fishing-canoe/step_20.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-fishing-canoe/step_20.md deleted file mode 100644 index b2fb9d1fa..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-fishing-canoe/step_20.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### SAIL AND INSPIRE - - Now go out there, inspire others, tell them the story (and to join the fight against plastic pollution), and enjoy! - -If you get to this point or it inspires you to do something similar, please let us know, we'd be so happy (you can tag us on social media with @​​​​​​​theflipflopi) - -Oh, and always have something with you to bale out water - even if no water is coming in from the bottom, it might be coming in with the waves :) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-fishing-canoe/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-fishing-canoe/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index b0db45f65..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-fishing-canoe/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Extruding - - To extrude / inject into these parts you will need quite a fast and powerful Extruder, as they have quite a big volume. We are using an industrial extruder, but an Extruder Pro (Precious Plastic Design) could also work (to be tested!). - -With our extruder, we filled the parts in about 10-15min with 15-20kg of plastic. As we noticed a lot of shrinkage and air pockets in the material, we adjusted the process and continued injecting plastic for 1-2 more minutes once the plastic came out the relief holes (indicating that the mould was full) to achieve more compression. - -We used 100% HDPE for our parts. - -LEARNING: Make sure to check the quality of your parts to know if you need to adjust anything in the process. The weight is a good indication for the likeliness of airpocket inside. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-fishing-canoe/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-fishing-canoe/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 634510eec..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-fishing-canoe/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,18 +0,0 @@ -### Get ready for boat building! - - Time to prepare all your materials and tools for boat building. This is what you'll need: - -Plastic material: -- Custom parts for the L-ribs, V-rib and front/back "muli" -- Lumber for the base, hull and interior (ideally min. 3m long) -You don't have to choose exactly the same sizes - have a look what you have available that can be strong enough - -Fixings: screws and bolts, corking cotton - -Tools: -- standard working tools: saws, chisels, drill, screwdrivers, ruler, square -- traditional dhow/boat making tools (see image) -- heat gun (or welding gun) / melting machine - -Space: Use a flat space with smooth floor to make it easy to collect the plastic dust / particles. - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-fishing-canoe/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-fishing-canoe/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index a801a1d49..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-fishing-canoe/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,17 +0,0 @@ -### Utako and Levelling - - First very important step is to level your keel ("Utako") as all your next steps will be based and relying this straightness and level. - -Material used: -- Keel Plank (9x2", 16ft long) -- Base logs (5x5") - -Levelling tools: Spirit Level and Hose pipe - -Process: -- divide the keel length into 5 and put a log at every fifth -- place the keel and make sure all is level -- fix the keel to the base with nails (or pegs) on both sides -- mark the center line on your keel, to align all coming parts to your center - -Note: Plastic planks can sometimes have a bend or twist. You can help bring them on one level by adding weight. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-fishing-canoe/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-fishing-canoe/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index a913a5ee4..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-fishing-canoe/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,16 +0,0 @@ -### Front and back Mulis - - Materials used: Mulis (2x) and temporary supporting poles ("Mabunda") - -Process: -- mark the center line on the front and back side of your muli -- if your muli is a bit warped, shape it on both long sides, so that its straight and symmetric -- cut a ribbet according to the size of your planks -- choose the angles for your Mulis to sit on the keel (we chose 45° in the front, and 70° in the back) -- cut the base of your muli according to the needed angle -- mark the shape of the Mulis on your keel and chisel it out (about 1/2" deep) and join them -- support the Mulis by adding Mabundas on the sides and the end -- use your Kabiru (plumb bob) to ensure your Mulis are straight and aligned to the center -- to fix the mulis in place, drill a hole through Muli and keel and join with a nut an bolt - -Note: We used silicone between the surfaces and cotton around the bolt to seal the joint. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-fishing-canoe/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-fishing-canoe/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index 72e38e823..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-fishing-canoe/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,13 +0,0 @@ -### Front and back Bitana - - The Bitana is a bracket reinforcement to hold the Muli to the Keel. - -Materials: -- L-shape rib pieces (2x) - -Process: -- shape the Rib piece to fit the angle of the Muli to the keel -- make it tapered so the planks can go alongside -- drill and bolt it to the Muli and the Keel - -Do this on the front and the back side. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-fishing-canoe/step_8.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-fishing-canoe/step_8.md deleted file mode 100644 index b693dd1d0..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-fishing-canoe/step_8.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,17 +0,0 @@ -### Define the boat shape - - You can choose different widths depending on how you want to use the boat. To be able to transport people comfortably, we chose the width to be a quarter of the length. It helps to choose the width according to the planks you have available. - -Materials: -- "Mapande" (wooden poles) -- thin and long easily bending piece of wood/plastic for temporary "kinara" (top plank of the hull) - -Process: -- attach Mapande at the widest point of the dhow -- create the rough shape with thin planks -- use a rope (or ruler/tape measure) to confirm equal width between both sides -- put rest of Mapande in place on the remaining base beams -- fixate your temporary "kinara" on the Mapande to keep the shape -- secure the position with "Mitindikani" - horizontal poles to keep the distance - - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-fishing-canoe/step_9.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-fishing-canoe/step_9.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7ffc38356..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-fishing-canoe/step_9.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,14 +0,0 @@ -### Mataruma (Ribs) - - Materials: -- L-shape ribs (14x) - -Process: -- place your ribs in place (in pairs) with equal distances to each other (we chose a distance of 12" between the pairs) -- if the parts vary in weight, make sure you distribute them so the weight is balanced (front/back, left/right) -- now cut the longer pieces according to the shape -- use a square to make sure the ribs sit in a right angle to the keel -- if there is warping/uneven sides of your pieces, use a shoka or saw to make them sit alongside nicely -- bolt the ribs to the keel -- place mitindikani (crossing poles) to keep the ribs in place - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-flipflopi-boat/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-flipflopi-boat/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 72c73ad0d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-flipflopi-boat/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Build a 'Flipflopi' boat - - -The Flipflopi is a sailing boat made from 100% recycled plastic and flip-flops collected from the streets and beaches in Kenya. - -Here we want to share how it was made and what we learned on the way. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-flipflopi-boat/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-flipflopi-boat/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index a60dfcd47..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-flipflopi-boat/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Intro - - First off, this boat is a first of its kind, a prototype. The processes we used were done for the first time and are not perfect (far from that!). So don’t take this as a guide to copy identically but more as something to learn from and and to get inspired :) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-flipflopi-boat/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-flipflopi-boat/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 5562cad58..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-flipflopi-boat/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Get a boatbuilder - - Okay, so it all started with finding a local boat builder, who was confident and visionary enough to believe that we could build a boat from a totally different material than what they were used to. - -Ali Skanda, from Lamu, was our man and gathered his boatbuilder team to apply their knowledge to a new material. - -We definitely recommend finding someone who knows how to build boats, so you can focus on learning how to use plastic for already existing processes, instead of trying to learn another complex skill on top of that! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-flipflopi-boat/step_10.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-flipflopi-boat/step_10.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9f022141d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-flipflopi-boat/step_10.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Things we learned - - It was a big process with a lot of learning, and yes, the result is a functional boat - but the process was quite rough with a lot of space for improvement. - -On the way we also made more tests and analysed the properties of the materials. -You can find a report here: -tinyurl.com/flipflopi-material-analysis - -And the document we shared in Step 1 has everything with more details as well :) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-flipflopi-boat/step_11.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-flipflopi-boat/step_11.md deleted file mode 100644 index e4553fe4e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-flipflopi-boat/step_11.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,13 +0,0 @@ -### Join us! â›µï¸ - - We already reached hundreds of thousands locally and globally with our expedition and the story around the boat. It's a great tool to reach people in a positive way to push good changes. - -So, we'll be building a much bigger boat which can sail longer distances and reach millions! There is still a lot to improve and figure out for a boat of that size! But as Ali Skanda says: "Kila kitu inaweze kana." - Everything is possible :) - -Hope this was insightful or at least a bit inspiring 🙃 - -Want to get involved? âœ‰ï¸ theflipflopi@​gmail.com -Or become a supporter (yay!) 👠-https://www.patreon.com/theflipflopi - -And if you end up building a similar boat, make sure to share it! (@​theflipflopi) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-flipflopi-boat/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-flipflopi-boat/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index c50db7d34..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-flipflopi-boat/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Make a plan - - With Ali Skanda we made a plan and designed the boat, to get an idea of the required components and joineries. - -The goal originally was (and still is), to build a boat which would be big enough to travel the message to fight single-use plastic and plastic pollution around the world. - -Here some of the sketches to get an overview of the parts. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-flipflopi-boat/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-flipflopi-boat/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 3dc83b17a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-flipflopi-boat/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Test manufacturers & materials - - As the approach was to have everything made locally in Kenya, a big challenge was (still is) to find collaborations with recycling manufacturers who deliver quality materials, reliably. - -We started at at point where they were mixing plastic types together or even add sawdust or sand (as a “stiffenerâ€) and it’s already a success to have them working with only one type of plastic, without anything else mixed in. Part of this was getting material samples and testing joineries which would be used in the boat. - -Starting with samples can save you a lot of time and costs, before ordering a bigger amount of materials. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-flipflopi-boat/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-flipflopi-boat/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index aeef1730a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-flipflopi-boat/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Start building - - With the processes more or less figured out, we started producing the recycled parts for a 24m boat - They were HUGE. - -The quality was very rough, but it was good to see that it was possible. And as this hasn’t been done before and was going to be a big investment, we decided to make a smaller 10m prototype first. - - So in the next step you'll see how we actually made the Flipflopi Dogo (“dogo†= “small†in Kiswahili). \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-flipflopi-boat/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-flipflopi-boat/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index ab6b862a2..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-flipflopi-boat/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### The big parts - - The production of the BIG PARTS like keel and ribs was one of the biggest challenges. We managed to work with what we could get, with a lot of space for improvements! - -We collaborated with the closest plastic recycling manufacturer Regeneration Africa in Malindi, where they usually produce fencing posts and tiles. - -Here is an overview of their process. (second image). We made over 30 metal moulds for different boat parts which were filled this way, using HDPE which is the most common and easiest type to collect separately (after PET). - -Sam and his team were a huge help to explore and figure out different processes and materials! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-flipflopi-boat/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-flipflopi-boat/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index ab83c0fdf..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-flipflopi-boat/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### The planks - - For the planks we collaborated with other manufacturers in Nairobi, which also produce fencing posts as well as other construction material. - -It's a quite common practice there to mix in sawdust to make the material stiffer and cheaper to produce (but that material mix also breaks much easier than pure plastic). It took a couple of attempts, but in the end we managed to get the 100% recycled plastic planks. - -These planks were produced with professional, industrial machines, but could definitely be made with the Precious Plastic Extrusion Pro as well! -(Extrusion Pro: https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/build/extrusionpro) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-flipflopi-boat/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-flipflopi-boat/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index 0a35392ae..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-flipflopi-boat/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### The flip-flop sheets - - 40% of all the waste collected on the beaches were flip-flops. This is where the project got its name from and why flip-flops were an obligatory element of this boat. - -So we covered the whole boat with sheets of recycled flip-flops, giving it a very colourful look and adding an extra protective layer (the whole boat feels like a big yoga mat :)) - -The sheets were made by local flipflop artist James who cuts the flip-flops into pieces, glues them together and sands them to an even sheet. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-flipflopi-boat/step_8.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-flipflopi-boat/step_8.md deleted file mode 100644 index fd858d9c7..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-flipflopi-boat/step_8.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### The boat build - - Time to build the boat! Starting with the keel, the ribs and connection parts, then making the hull with the extruded planks, and finishing with the colourful Flipflop sheets. - - Other than using this new material, the boatbuilders made the boat in their traditional way, meaning that they used very basic tools (every screw was inserted with a hand drill and a screwdriver!). - -This is obviously something we won't be able to teach you here - that's what you need a boatbuilder for! :) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-flipflopi-boat/step_9.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-flipflopi-boat/step_9.md deleted file mode 100644 index 471330c5e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-flipflopi-boat/step_9.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Sail and inspire! - - Alright, now we only had to add (second hand) parts from other sailing boats like the mast, boom, sail and ropes. And were finally ready to do what the boat was meant to be for: Sailing around Kenya to create awareness around the problem and inspire local communities to be part of a positive change! - -On our first expedition the boat sailed smoothly for more than 500km from the north of Kenya to Zanzibar, carried its passengers safely while creating excitement and fascination everywhere we went! - -â—ï¸IMPORTANT: Definitely test and check your boat if it's seaworthy! You'll be responsible for your passengers and yourself, and don't want to risk your lives 🙠\ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-geodesic-dome/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-geodesic-dome/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 854e893da..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-geodesic-dome/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Build a geodesic dome - - -The Geodesic Dome is a lightweight structure using a minimum of materials. It is constructed by triangular elements, which are structurally rigid and splitting the stress evenly. Usually, it is used for greenhouses or temporary structures. - -Step 1-6: Prepare your components (1-2 days) -Step 7-11: Assemble the structure (1-2 hours) diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-geodesic-dome/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-geodesic-dome/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 19d59b3f6..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-geodesic-dome/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,14 +0,0 @@ -### Design your structure - - -First of all, decide how big your dome should be and calculate the required sizes of the elements. Consider that the diameter of the structure equals double of its height. - -There are several tools on the internet to help calculating the size of each individual beam. This is the one we used: -http://www.domerama.com/calculators/2v-geodesic-dome-calculator/ -You can put in your dome size and it will calculate the required beam lengths for you. - -In any case, we have to shorten the lengths a bit so that they work with our joints. -Short beams: - 64.5mm -Long beams: - 73.4mm - -In this example, we are making a 2.5m high dome (5m diameter). diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-geodesic-dome/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-geodesic-dome/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 56524b093..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-geodesic-dome/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Make the moulds for your joints - - To build a geodesic dome, we will need 6 pieces of 5-way joints and 20 pieces of 6-way joints. Those pieces will be injected, so we first have to make the required moulds for the injection machine. Take the 3D model from the download kit and cnc-mill it yourself or send it to a specialist to mill it for you. - -Then drill the holes for the injection point and for the bolts to close the mould. - -👉 https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/create/injection-moulds \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-geodesic-dome/step_10.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-geodesic-dome/step_10.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4ec847cc7..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-geodesic-dome/step_10.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Assemble (Part 3) - - For the third level, connect 5x 6-way-joints to the second level. Use longer beams for connecting to a 6-way-joint and short beams for connecting to a 5-way. - -For the fourth and last level, simply connect the remaining 5-way-joint with the 5 short beams. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-geodesic-dome/step_11.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-geodesic-dome/step_11.md deleted file mode 100644 index c91e0d6d3..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-geodesic-dome/step_11.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Explore the possibilities! - - Your Geodesic Dome is done! - -Feel free to play around with this structure like removing some beams to create an entrance, or trying out other variations of the construction. - -You could also use other materials (like recycled plastic) for your beams or add surfaces in the triangle spaces. - -Have fun exploring! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-geodesic-dome/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-geodesic-dome/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index e8a13b85e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-geodesic-dome/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Prepare your plastic - - Make sure you have your material ready before starting to inject. For the joints, both HDPE and PP work for the dome due to their flexibility and strength. However, PP is recommended as it is easier to inject. PS and PET are not recommended as they are brittle. Consider that the weight of one joint is about 130g, so you will need a bit more than 3.5kg for all pieces. Use around 150g PP each time to prevent lack of pressure and loss from leak out. - -Tip: Try to use finely shredded plastic to reach the injection machine’s full capacity. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-geodesic-dome/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-geodesic-dome/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 399c68623..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-geodesic-dome/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,13 +0,0 @@ -### Inject the joints - - Ready to inject! Set the temperature of the tube to 240°C and the nozzle to 230°C. The following workflow will take 12-15 mins per piece: -1 - Insert plastic to the hopper -2 - Heat up the plastic (8-9 min) -3 - Attach the mould -4 - Inject plastic -5 - Take the mould out of the machine - -Repeat this process for each joint. Ongoing, while you're waiting for one mould to cool down, you can prepare the other mould for the next injection process. - -If needed, here are some tips for injecting: -👉 https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/work-with-the-injection-machine diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-geodesic-dome/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-geodesic-dome/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 007aa21aa..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-geodesic-dome/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Finish your joints - - To finish the joinery, cut the extra material generated by the injection channel. Use a knife to clean the edges if needed. Then drill the M6 holes according to the marks on the joinery parts. - -P.S. Always keep the plastic flakes for future use during the process! diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-geodesic-dome/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-geodesic-dome/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4e8a8bbc9..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-geodesic-dome/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Prepare the beams - - Take your beams (we used 20mm x 30mm) and cut them to the required lengths and amounts. -For our 2.5 m high dome, we need: -A: 1302 mm x 30 -B: 1472 mm x 35 -If you decided for another dome size, take the dimensions you’ve calculated. - -Once you have all your beams cut into the right size, drill M6 holes at both ends of all the beams. Place the hole in the middle of the width and 20 mm from the edge. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-geodesic-dome/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-geodesic-dome/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index 53b9bd122..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-geodesic-dome/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Get ready for assembly - - Now that you have all the components you can build your structure. - -Gather the following tools and metal parts for for assembling: -- 2x 10 mm spanner -- 130x Bolts - M6 x 40 mm -- 130x Nuts - M6 -- 260x Washers -- Hand Drill with M6 Drill Bit \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-geodesic-dome/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-geodesic-dome/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index daf66bc47..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-geodesic-dome/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Assemble (Concept) - - Finally it's time to assemble! Basically, the dome is made out of 6 pentagons which are connected with their edges. The raised plate in the 6-way-joint is connecting to the 5-way-joint, the rest is connecting to another 6-way piece. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-geodesic-dome/step_8.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-geodesic-dome/step_8.md deleted file mode 100644 index 14a1640b4..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-geodesic-dome/step_8.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Assemble (Part 1) - - There are various ways to assemble, so feel free to try out your own. -In this example, we'll start with the bottom level of the structure. Connect 10x 6-way-joints with 10x long beams into a decagon. Pay attention to keep all joints in the right direction. - -6-way-joints: pink -5-way-joints: blue diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-geodesic-dome/step_9.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-geodesic-dome/step_9.md deleted file mode 100644 index ba6057980..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-geodesic-dome/step_9.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Assemble (Part 2) - - For the second level, connect 5x 5-way-joinery with 2x short beams and connect 5x 6-way-joints with 2x long beams to the first level. The 5-way-joints and 6-way-joints should be alternating. Then, connect all the joints on the second level with shorter beams. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-house/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-house/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 345d12fef..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-house/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Build a house - - -Lorem Ipsum is simply dummy text of the printing and typesetting industry. Lorem Ipsum has been the industry's standard dummy text ever since the 1500s, when an unknown printer took a galley of type and scrambled it to make a type specimen book. It has survived not only five centuries, but also the leap into electronic typesetting, remaining essentially unchanged. It was popularised in the 1960s with the release of Letraset sheets containing Lorem Ipsum passages, and more recently with desktop publishing software like Aldus PageMaker including versions of Lorem Ipsum. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-house/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-house/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index ee0a14a41..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-house/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Why do we use it? - - It is a long established fact that a reader will be distracted by the readable content of a page when looking at its layout. The point of using Lorem Ipsum is that it has a more-or-less normal distribution of letters, as opposed to using 'Content here, content here', making it look like readable English. Many desktop publishing packages and web page editors now use Lorem Ipsum as their default model text, and a search for 'lorem ipsum' will uncover many web sites still in their infancy. Various versions have evolved over the years, sometimes by accident, sometimes on purpose (injected humour and the like). \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-house/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-house/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 80437654d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-house/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Where does it come from? - - Contrary to popular belief, Lorem Ipsum is not simply random text. It has roots in a piece of classical Latin literature from 45 BC, making it over 2000 years old. Richard McClintock, a Latin professor at Hampden-Sydney College in Virginia, looked up one of the more obscure Latin words, consectetur, from a Lorem Ipsum passage, and going through the cites of the word in classical literature, discovered the undoubtable source. Lorem Ipsum comes from sections 1.10.32 and 1.10.33 of "de Finibus Bonorum et Malorum" (The Extremes of Good and Evil) by Cicero, written in 45 BC. This book is a treatise on the theory of ethics, very popular during the Renaissance. The first line of Lorem Ipsum, "Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet..", comes from a line in section 1.10.32. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-house/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-house/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index ac8190bdb..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-house/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Where can I get some? - - There are many variations of passages of Lorem Ipsum available, but the majority have suffered alteration in some form, by injected humour, or randomised words which don't look even slightly believable. If you are going to use a passage of Lorem Ipsum, you need to be sure there isn't anything embarrassing hidden in the middle of text. All the Lorem Ipsum generators on the Internet tend to repeat predefined chunks as necessary, making this the first true generator on the Internet. It uses a dictionary of over 200 Latin words, combined with a handful of model sentence structures, to generate Lorem Ipsum which looks reasonable. The generated Lorem Ipsum is therefore always free from repetition, injected humour, or non-characteristic words etc. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-mini-injector/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-mini-injector/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4769058c4..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-mini-injector/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Build a Mini Injector - - -This small addon for a drill press can enable you to try out injection moulding on a very low budget. It enables you to turn your plastic waste into cool products. - -The only tools you will need for this project is a drill press and a metal hacksaw. -Most parts can be purchased from your local hardware store. - -Download the files here: https://github.com/FriedrichKegel/Mini-Injector \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-mini-injector/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-mini-injector/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8ebd31052..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-mini-injector/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Test 1 - - Read the full project documentation here: https://hackaday.io/project/175030-mini-injector \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-mini-injector/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-mini-injector/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7c49e4c9d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-mini-injector/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### 2 - - Read the full project documentation here: https://hackaday.io/project/175030-mini-injector \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-mini-injector/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-mini-injector/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index fe61d15e5..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-a-mini-injector/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### 3 - - Read the full project documentation here: https://hackaday.io/project/175030-mini-injector \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-brick-structures/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-brick-structures/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index b2bd74c3d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-brick-structures/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Build brick structures - - -Recycled bricks are a great way of recycling large amounts of plastic. So what's better than building your own recycled plastic bike shed or another similar structure? - -This How-to is split up into the following sections: -Step 1 - 2 Intro -Step 3 - 6 Fixed structure -Step 7 - 19 Build walls -Step 20 - 26 Make the roof diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-brick-structures/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-brick-structures/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8618e91cb..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-brick-structures/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Before you start - - Before you start, this how-to pulls on a slightly different set of skills than some of the other guides and assumes you have a basic understanding of construction/building/architecture. If any of the elements of the guide are vague, we recommend you query the wider internet as most of these techniques are based on standard building methods. -In this how-to, you are going to an assortment of materials, but the basics are plastic bricks, timber planks (of various dimensions), screws, expansion bolts and threaded bar. The main tools you will need are a drill, rubber mallet and saw. - -If you have the capacity, you could also change the timber for plastic beams. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-brick-structures/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-brick-structures/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 953729228..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-brick-structures/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Fixed or mobile unit? - - Recycled bricks are fairly lightweight, so in some cases, you may want to build a mobile/moveable object. Before starting you will need to decide this. If you choose a mobile structure you can skip Steps 2-6. - -Learn here how to make the brick 👉 https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/make-extruded-plastic-bricks \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-brick-structures/step_10.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-brick-structures/step_10.md deleted file mode 100644 index 983104658..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-brick-structures/step_10.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Placing bricks - - Your first layer can now be placed in tandem with adding the second layer. It is easiest to start in one corner and go from there adding Limiters incrementally. Bricks can easily be hammered together and no special tool is required for this, but we recommend a rubber mallet to prevent damage to the bricks. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-brick-structures/step_11.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-brick-structures/step_11.md deleted file mode 100644 index de2d6a1d5..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-brick-structures/step_11.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### End bricks - - There are 2 types of bricks required to build a wall, and a 3rd optional giving you more control over your design: single, double and triple brick. - -To create a straight edge you will need at least the single brick. this is placed just like all the other bricks. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-brick-structures/step_12.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-brick-structures/step_12.md deleted file mode 100644 index a6ebe7205..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-brick-structures/step_12.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Build your wall - - Now continue to build your wall, hammering bricks in place layer by layer, ensuring each brick is tightly hammered together. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-brick-structures/step_13.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-brick-structures/step_13.md deleted file mode 100644 index 88a2bf3ac..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-brick-structures/step_13.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Framing the wall - - Now that you have reached your desired height you may need to attach columns. To do this we cut the wood to a desired length and then screw to the timber base or bricks ensuring the column is straight with a spirit level. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-brick-structures/step_14.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-brick-structures/step_14.md deleted file mode 100644 index c2778a56a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-brick-structures/step_14.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Topping the wall - - Next, you will need to top the wall with timber. To do this drill 11mm holes at the same spacing as previously done to the concrete of bottom frame, sliding the timber over the exposed threaded bar. - -Your dimensions for the timber should also be the same as the floor if your structure is even. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-brick-structures/step_15.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-brick-structures/step_15.md deleted file mode 100644 index cf3b0c90a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-brick-structures/step_15.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Connecting the top plate - - Next you will need to connect the top plate together using screws and depending on the screw length you may need to drill a hole into the wood to allow the screws to join the wood. This will ensure the top plate acts as a single unit and will be strong enough when we tighten down the structure in the following steps. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-brick-structures/step_16.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-brick-structures/step_16.md deleted file mode 100644 index adb05dcdd..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-brick-structures/step_16.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Clamping the bricks together - - Next step is to clamp the bricks together ensuring they cannot move. To do this you will need to add an additional washer and nut to the threaded bar, tightening the wood down until either the washer sinks into the wood or a good level of resistance is felt to the nut. This step should also increase the strength of the wall and its stability. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-brick-structures/step_17.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-brick-structures/step_17.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9230a5ab2..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-brick-structures/step_17.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Attaching the top of the beams - - Next step is screw in the tops of the columns to the newly added wood, now that we have bolted the structure down. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-brick-structures/step_18.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-brick-structures/step_18.md deleted file mode 100644 index 49d5696c5..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-brick-structures/step_18.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Framing & covering the brick teeth (sides) - - Now that the man structure is clamped we need to add some framing. Here we are using 18mm by 100mm planks, screwed into our frame. Pilot holes were drilled first to avoid cracking. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-brick-structures/step_19.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-brick-structures/step_19.md deleted file mode 100644 index dac995231..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-brick-structures/step_19.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Framing & covering the brick teeth (top) - - We continue this method around the top, covering the exposed elements of the bricks, and aligning the timber clamping structure perfectly with the bricks. This work requires accurate measurements to look good, so take your time here. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-brick-structures/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-brick-structures/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index de6e229e0..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-brick-structures/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Locate a concrete slab (Fixed structure) - - To ensure a strong foundation for our structure, we will need to locate or make a concrete foundation. We will not explain how to make one here but you should be able to find comprehensive guides online. - -In this How-to we used the concrete slab of our workspace, which is at least 30cm thick. Depending on your structure 15cm could be utilised. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-brick-structures/step_20.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-brick-structures/step_20.md deleted file mode 100644 index 81beb0d7c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-brick-structures/step_20.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Adding roof frame structure (top beam) - - The reason we kept the columns longer than the rest of the structure is to allow us to attach a beam to support the roof. The length of this beam should be the same as the space between the columns at the floor (assuming your structure is square). - -For this step ensure your beam is level and 2 screws are placed diagonally on each column to secure it. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-brick-structures/step_21.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-brick-structures/step_21.md deleted file mode 100644 index cdeec6999..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-brick-structures/step_21.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Make roof frame structure - - The newly installed beam will help support the roof trusses. These trusses should overhang the walls, but this will depend on your structure and roofing type. For the bike shed you will need 3, each with a notch cut to ensure good contact is made with the existing timber. To do this we used a ruler to create the desired cut and then cut it with a jigsaw. The end of the truss is also cut at an angle, this is an optional step. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-brick-structures/step_22.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-brick-structures/step_22.md deleted file mode 100644 index 57a9f13c9..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-brick-structures/step_22.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Attach roof frame structure - - Each of the trusses need to be screwed in and evenly distributed. We screw in at an angle to lock the structure in place. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-brick-structures/step_23.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-brick-structures/step_23.md deleted file mode 100644 index ad50ce719..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-brick-structures/step_23.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Attach roof frame structure - purlins - - The purlins are 2 x 2 pieces of timber that will connect directly to the roofing material. Due to the length of timber, we had access to we had to join them in the middle. We overhung them from the trusses by 20cm. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-brick-structures/step_24.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-brick-structures/step_24.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2ff887a9c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-brick-structures/step_24.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Adding roof sheets - - Next, you will need to add the roofing sheets to complete the structure. In this how-to we used a recycled roofing sheet that is a little thicker than galvanized, but most other sheeting materials will work (But its best to be sustainable in your choice!). - -To do this we lay the sheets overlapping them and making sure they are straight. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-brick-structures/step_25.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-brick-structures/step_25.md deleted file mode 100644 index 52dfbc06d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-brick-structures/step_25.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Fixing roofing sheet - - Next, you will need to use the relevant roofing screws to attach the roof to the timber. The number of screws and locations depend on your roofing material type and it is best to consult with your roofing supplier on these details. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-brick-structures/step_26.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-brick-structures/step_26.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8e47b6fe9..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-brick-structures/step_26.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Finished! - - Done, you are now finished! - -The best thing about the recycled plastic bricks, other than the fact they are made from precious recycled plastic, is the possibilities. We have attached a few images of options, and look forward to seeing your designs! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-brick-structures/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-brick-structures/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2eaa0f5eb..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-brick-structures/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Marking holes - - Before drilling the holes into the concrete, you need to know roughly where you are going to place your bricks. Each brick is approximately 29cm in length, and we need to place an anchor every 4 bricks (approx 1.2m apart), on corners and also at the ends of the structure. The holes also need to be located so that they go through the hollow section of the brick. The location of these holes depends on your final object, and cannot be moved halfway through the process so take extra time to make sure you get this step correct by maybe laying out your first layer before starting. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-brick-structures/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-brick-structures/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index ad284737f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-brick-structures/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Drilling your holes - - Drilling holes into concrete requires an impact hammer and a masonry drill bit. In this case, we used a 14mm drill bit for a 10mm bolt (next step). Make sure to wear respiratory protection if inside as this can potentially be a dusty job. Always wear protective glasses to protect your eyes. - -The depth you drill is dependant on the size of your expansion bolt. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-brick-structures/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-brick-structures/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index ee82ea110..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-brick-structures/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Inserting expansion bolts - - Expansion bolts are what we use in this how-to guide, but there are other options available including epoxy. -With the expansion bolt, we gently hammer in the bolt until flush with the concrete and then tighten until it can no longer be removed from the hole. -After this point, the steps are the same as a mobile unit. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-brick-structures/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-brick-structures/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index d437117d1..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-brick-structures/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Layout your base (Mobile unit) - - In this Step, you are creating the bottom layer that will be connected to the top layer holding the bricks together. If you have bolted your structure to the ground you can skip this step, unless you want to create a layer of wood between the concrete and the first layer of bricks. (Which we did for our 2019 Dutch Design Week exhibit: see photo). - -This first layer of wood needs to be exactly the same length as your bricks on the first layer and screwed together to create a single unit. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-brick-structures/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-brick-structures/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4e84dbd2a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-brick-structures/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Drilling holes into the base - - We now need to drill holes for our threaded bar, and counter sink the nuts into the base of the wooden frame at about 1.2m intervals, ensuring extras are placed at the corners and ends of the wall . To do this we use a spade head bit with the same diameter as our 10mm washers and then drill the 11mm holes for the threaded bar to pass through. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-brick-structures/step_8.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-brick-structures/step_8.md deleted file mode 100644 index 82a476fc9..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-brick-structures/step_8.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Placing threaded bar - - Now we need to attach the threaded bar to our base structure. This threaded bar needs to be longer than planned wall height. You may need to weld multiple pieces together and if you have a bolt in the concrete, you will need to weld the threaded bar to your bolt. - -For the timber, version place a nut and washer on both sides clamping the threaded bar in place. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-brick-structures/step_9.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-brick-structures/step_9.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2a0f061bf..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-brick-structures/step_9.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Placing limiters - - To ensure the bricks do not slip off the wooden substructure, we create small spacers which are exactly the same dimension of the base of the brick. These spacers should be located near/on bolts and near corners. - -These can be screwed into place. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-easy-to-wash-chicken-coop-from-bottle-caps/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-easy-to-wash-chicken-coop-from-bottle-caps/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8343d55dc..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-easy-to-wash-chicken-coop-from-bottle-caps/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Build easy-to-wash chicken coop from bottle caps - - -Recycled plastic sheets are an excellent choice for creating chicken coops, as they are easy to clean and less likely to harbor parasites such as poultry red mites. Let me tell you how we built ours! -You can download the plans we've made, watch the various stages in the Youtube video, and of course subscribe to my channel to find out about future projects! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-easy-to-wash-chicken-coop-from-bottle-caps/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-easy-to-wash-chicken-coop-from-bottle-caps/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index b6ab5f895..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-easy-to-wash-chicken-coop-from-bottle-caps/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Watch that amazing Youtube video first ! - - In this video, I show you all the production stages of this chicken coop made from recycled plastic sheets. -Watching the video first will give you a complete overview of what we're going to make, and make the rest easier! -Take this opportunity to subscribe to my channel if you like this type of content - your support helps me enormously! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-easy-to-wash-chicken-coop-from-bottle-caps/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-easy-to-wash-chicken-coop-from-bottle-caps/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index d007bc6f9..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-easy-to-wash-chicken-coop-from-bottle-caps/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Download the files provided above - - In these files, you will find the plans of the henhouse as we built it, in .PDF but also .DXF format so that you can view and modify them with an opensource program such as LibreCAD. -The wooden structure was designed to be covered with 100*100*1cm panels made with the most widely used version of the Precious Plastic sheetpress. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-easy-to-wash-chicken-coop-from-bottle-caps/step_10.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-easy-to-wash-chicken-coop-from-bottle-caps/step_10.md deleted file mode 100644 index 940fca23b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-easy-to-wash-chicken-coop-from-bottle-caps/step_10.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Add the last elements - - If this is not yet done, add the interior perch, the automatic door for the chickens (we chose an Omlet brand door, which we bought second-hand). -Again, adapt to what you find or already have! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-easy-to-wash-chicken-coop-from-bottle-caps/step_11.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-easy-to-wash-chicken-coop-from-bottle-caps/step_11.md deleted file mode 100644 index 526b0a8c2..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-easy-to-wash-chicken-coop-from-bottle-caps/step_11.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Time to celebrate ! - - Invite some chicks and have an eggs-traordinary party! -Please send me pictures of your creation if you decide to build a chicken coop similar to ours ! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-easy-to-wash-chicken-coop-from-bottle-caps/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-easy-to-wash-chicken-coop-from-bottle-caps/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index df44c5e8b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-easy-to-wash-chicken-coop-from-bottle-caps/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Collect around 120 000 bottle caps - - Collecting such a large quantity of caps can be a real challenge, so I'm going to tell you how I do it personally. -I work with an association that collects the caps from schools, stores, public places, etc. before sorting them by color. I pay for this collection and sorting service, as it saves me dozens of hours of work! - -Try to find such associations in your neighborhood! In our area, many collect bottle caps and sell them to recycling companies to finance humanitarian activities: dogs for the blind, wheelchairs for the disabled, etc... - -For this project, we needed 240 kilos of bottle caps. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-easy-to-wash-chicken-coop-from-bottle-caps/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-easy-to-wash-chicken-coop-from-bottle-caps/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 1e89a7c6e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-easy-to-wash-chicken-coop-from-bottle-caps/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11 +0,0 @@ -### Shred & wash your bottle caps - - SHREDDING - -I use a V4 pro shredder to shred the caps 4 times, until I get the right size of shred for my needs. - -WASHING (and DRYING) - -I find that washing is more effective when done after grinding, rather than before. So I put my shredded plastic in heavy-duty cotton canvas bags, which I seal carefully with reusable zip-ties. I then wash them in domestic washing machines, with a filtration and water recovery system. Filtration prevents the loss of microplastics into the environment, while water recovery enables the washing machines to operate in a closed cycle, reusing the same water many times over, for a multitude of washes, before being renewed. - -I then dry the bags of shredded material in tumble dryers (powered by solar panels) to obtain perfectly dry, moisture-free shredded material. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-easy-to-wash-chicken-coop-from-bottle-caps/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-easy-to-wash-chicken-coop-from-bottle-caps/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 84b40f88d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-easy-to-wash-chicken-coop-from-bottle-caps/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Create your sheets using the sheetpress - - Using the method explained in a previous "How-To" ( https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/continuously-produce-sheets- ), you should be able to make between 6 and 8 sheets per day. - -For this project, we needed 24 panels, including 4 yellow ones for the nesting box. - -So you could be finished after 3-4 intense days, good job! - -(Don't mind the pink ones, they were for another project in our daughter's room!) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-easy-to-wash-chicken-coop-from-bottle-caps/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-easy-to-wash-chicken-coop-from-bottle-caps/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index bc194252b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-easy-to-wash-chicken-coop-from-bottle-caps/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,12 +0,0 @@ -### Build the wooden structure and the roof - - Build the wooden structure following the plans provided in this “How-Toâ€. - -Of course, you will have to adapt to your own location and your available materials. - -In our case, we had Trespa panels in stock (from my partner's ordering error for a previous professional project) so we used them for the floor and ceiling. -If you don't want to buy Trespa panels, you can adapt the structure and also use recycled plastic panels instead. - -The roof of the henhouse was insulated and then covered with corrugated iron sheets. - -As you will see in the plans, we wanted to provide a small storage space next to the chickens' living room in order to be able to store equipment there. It is accessed from the outside and not the inside of the henhouse. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-easy-to-wash-chicken-coop-from-bottle-caps/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-easy-to-wash-chicken-coop-from-bottle-caps/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index 410090271..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-easy-to-wash-chicken-coop-from-bottle-caps/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Cut and add your recycled plastic sheets - - It's time to dress the interior and exterior walls of your chicken coop! - -Be very careful when cutting your panels, do it in a place that allows you to collect/vacuum up all the plastic dust created by the cuts, so that this plastic does not end up in the environment. -To attach the panels, you will need to pre-drill (recover any plastic waste that falls!) before screwing to the wooden structure. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-easy-to-wash-chicken-coop-from-bottle-caps/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-easy-to-wash-chicken-coop-from-bottle-caps/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index eaf6c8a7f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-easy-to-wash-chicken-coop-from-bottle-caps/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Allow space between your panels ! - - We made the "mistake" of not providing space between the panels, which does not allow them to expand properly when it is very hot, and some panels can end up a little bulging. - -To avoid this, it can be good to allow 0.5cm-1cm of space between the panels. - -Depending on the season in which you build your henhouse, and the temperature differences that you may have in your country (between summer and winter), you could notice big changes in the expansion of your panels, this is normal, but you must anticipate them during construction! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-easy-to-wash-chicken-coop-from-bottle-caps/step_8.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-easy-to-wash-chicken-coop-from-bottle-caps/step_8.md deleted file mode 100644 index f24caa3af..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-easy-to-wash-chicken-coop-from-bottle-caps/step_8.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Create your doors and windows - - Our doors and windows have a steel structure, which has been painted (with the family!). -We first used putty to glue the panels to the steel structure, but it didn't work well. -We therefore opted for a mechanical solution. - -Personally, we decided to add a metal mesh to the windows to prevent the intrusion of martens or rats. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-easy-to-wash-chicken-coop-from-bottle-caps/step_9.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-easy-to-wash-chicken-coop-from-bottle-caps/step_9.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4d62510f8..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-easy-to-wash-chicken-coop-from-bottle-caps/step_9.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Now, the nests ! - - Then build your nests, always using the plans and adapting them to your needs. -Be creative and don't be afraid to go for a different color! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-the-flipflopi-boat/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-the-flipflopi-boat/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 60877409f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-the-flipflopi-boat/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Build the 'Flipflopi' boat - - -The Flipflopi is a sailing boat made from 100% recycled plastic and flip-flops collected from the streets and beaches in Kenya. - -Here we want to share how it was made and what we learned on the way. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-the-flipflopi-boat/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-the-flipflopi-boat/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index b45864fc7..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-the-flipflopi-boat/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Intro - - First off, this boat is a first of its kind, a prototype. The processes we used were done for the first time and are not perfect (far from that!). So don’t take this as a guide to copy identically but more as something to learn from and and to get inspired :) - -If you want to dive more into details, see more photos, and test results, have a look at the document here: -👉 https://drive.google.com/file/d/1NZgn58G6XC_cCiG8W5toE4hkAw53BlPY/view?usp=sharing \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-the-flipflopi-boat/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-the-flipflopi-boat/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 82adda057..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-the-flipflopi-boat/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### We got a boatbuilder - - Okay, so it all started with finding a local boat builder, who was confident and visionary enough to believe that we could build a boat from a totally different material than what they were used to. - -Ali Skanda, from Lamu, was our man and gathered his boatbuilder team to apply their knowledge to a new material. - -We definitely recommend finding someone who knows how to build boats, so you can focus on learning how to use plastic for already existing processes, instead of trying to learn another complex skill on top of that! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-the-flipflopi-boat/step_10.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-the-flipflopi-boat/step_10.md deleted file mode 100644 index 533af181f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-the-flipflopi-boat/step_10.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Things we learned - - It was a big process with a lot of learning, and yes, the result is a functional boat - but the process was quite rough with a lot of space for improvement. - -On the way we also made more tests and analysed the properties of the materials. -You can find a report here: -https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Qf6IKGYNRBJ3DJkxxsOehNt4faN2SPxk/view?usp=sharing - -And the document we shared in Step 1 has everything with more details as well :) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-the-flipflopi-boat/step_11.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-the-flipflopi-boat/step_11.md deleted file mode 100644 index 3c1668eed..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-the-flipflopi-boat/step_11.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,14 +0,0 @@ -### Join us for the big boat! :) - - We already reached hundreds of thousands locally and globally with our expedition and the story around the boat. It's a great tool to reach people in a positive way to push good changes. - -So, we'll be building a much bigger boat which can sail longer distances and reach millions! -There is still a lot to improve and figure out for a boat of that size! But as Ali Skanda says: -"Kila kitu inaweze kana." - Everything is possible :) - -Hope this was insightful or at least a bit inspiring 🙃 - -Want to get involved? âœ‰ï¸ theflipflopi@gmail.com -Or become a supporter (yay!) 👠https://www.patreon.com/theflipflopi - -And if you end up building a similar boat, make sure to share it! (@theflipflopi) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-the-flipflopi-boat/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-the-flipflopi-boat/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index c7e081973..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-the-flipflopi-boat/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### We made a plan - - With Ali Skanda we made a plan and designed the boat. -The goal originally was (and still is), to build a boat which would be big enough to travel the message to fight single-use plastic and plastic pollution around the world. - -Here some of the sketches to get an overview of the boat components. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-the-flipflopi-boat/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-the-flipflopi-boat/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index c943bbbf5..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-the-flipflopi-boat/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Test local manufacturers - - As the approach was to have everything made locally in Kenya, a big challenge was (still is) to find collaborations with recycling manufacturers who deliver quality materials, reliably. - -We started at at point where they were mixing plastic types together or even add sawdust or sand (as a “stiffenerâ€) and it’s already a success to have them working with only one type of plastic, without anything else mixed in. - -Part of this was getting material samples and testing joineries which would be used in the boat. - -Starting with samples can save you a lot of time and costs, before ordering a bigger amount of materials. - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-the-flipflopi-boat/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-the-flipflopi-boat/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 19dc2f54f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-the-flipflopi-boat/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### We started - - With the processes more or less figured out, we started producing the recycled parts for a 24m boat! They were HUGE!
 - -The quality was very rough, but it was good to see that it was possible. And as this hasn’t been done before and was going to be a big investment, we decided to make a “smaller†9m prototype first. - -So in the next step you'll see how we actually made the Flipflopi Dogo (“dogo†= “small†in Kiswahili). \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-the-flipflopi-boat/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-the-flipflopi-boat/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 14e6be0ee..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-the-flipflopi-boat/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### The big parts - - The production of the BIG PARTS like keel and ribs was one of the biggest challenges. We managed to work with what we could get, with a lot of space for improvements! - -We collaborated with the closest plastic recycling manufacturer Regeneration Africa in Malindi, where they usually produce fencing posts and tiles. - -Here is an overview of their process. (second image). -We made over 30 metal moulds for different boat parts which were filled this way, using HDPE which is the most common and easiest type to collect separately (after PET). - -Sam and his team were a huge help to explore and figure out different processes and materials! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-the-flipflopi-boat/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-the-flipflopi-boat/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index 517581df6..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-the-flipflopi-boat/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### The planks - - For the planks we collaborated with other manufacturers in Nairobi, which also produce fencing posts as well as other construction material. -
 -It's a quite common practice there to mix in sawdust to make the material stiffer and cheaper to produce (but that material mix also breaks much easier than pure plastic). It took a couple of attempts, but in the end we managed to get the 100% recycled plastic planks. - -These planks were produced with professional, industrial machines, but could definitely be made with the Precious Plastic Extrusion Pro as well! (More info here: https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/build/extrusionpro) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-the-flipflopi-boat/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-the-flipflopi-boat/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index 0dc843b11..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-the-flipflopi-boat/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### The flipflop sheets - - 40% of all the waste collected on the beaches were flipflops. -This is where the project got its name from and why flipflops were an obligatory element of this boat. - -So we covered the whole boat with sheets of recycled Flipflops, giving it a very colourful look and adding an extra protective layer (the whole boat feels like a big yoga mat :)) - -The sheets were made by local flipflop artist James who cuts the flipflops into pieces, glues them together and sands them to an even sheet. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-the-flipflopi-boat/step_8.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-the-flipflopi-boat/step_8.md deleted file mode 100644 index d4172ed00..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-the-flipflopi-boat/step_8.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11 +0,0 @@ -### The boat build - - Time to build the boat! -Starting with the keel, the ribs and connection parts, -then making the hull with the extruded planks, -and finishing with the colourful Flipflop sheets. - -Other than using this new material, the boatbuilders made the boat in their traditional way, meaning that they used very basic tools (every screw was inserted with a hand drill and a screwdriver!). - -This is obviously something we won't be able to teach you here - that's what you need a boatbuilder for! :) - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-the-flipflopi-boat/step_9.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-the-flipflopi-boat/step_9.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8c8508d00..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-the-flipflopi-boat/step_9.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Sail! - - Alright, now we only had to add (second hand) parts from other sailing boats like the mast, boom, sail and ropes. And were finally ready to do what the boat was meant to be for: Sailing around Kenya to create awareness around the problem and inspire local communities to be part of a positive change! - -On our first expedition the boat sailed smoothly for more than 500km from the north of Kenya to Zanzibar, carried its passengers safely while creating excitement and fascination everywhere we went! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-your-own-filament-cooling-system-/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-your-own-filament-cooling-system-/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 1b6beff65..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-your-own-filament-cooling-system-/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,14 +0,0 @@ -### Build your own filament cooling system - - -In this how to we will show you how you can assemble your JARVIS Airpath cooling system in 6 easy steps - -In tis folder you will find: -1. Airpath parts.(pdf) -2. Airpath 3D printed parts.(zip) - -You can check out our JARVIS Airpath video here: -https://youtu.be/6Ae6oDKhqiE - -Feel free to visit our website :) -https://www.qitech.de/en/industries \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-your-own-filament-cooling-system-/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-your-own-filament-cooling-system-/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9ae9303b1..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-your-own-filament-cooling-system-/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Preparation of the gondolas - - -First, prepare the 4 gondolas by pressing the included magnets into the upper holes. Later, the clips, which also carry magnets, will be attached to them. Make sure that all the magnets in the gondolas are oriented in the same polarity so that the magnet clips will be attracted to them later from the opposite polarity. - -The clips have 2 holes on the inside for the magnets. Insert the magnets in the correct orientation so that the magnet clips are attracted to the gondolas. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-your-own-filament-cooling-system-/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-your-own-filament-cooling-system-/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 23cc75c81..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-your-own-filament-cooling-system-/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Attachment of the gondolas to the aluminum profile - - -Next, we will attach the 4 gondolas to the aluminum profiles. For this, you will need 16 T-nuts, 16 screws of size M5 x 8, both aluminum profiles, the 4 gondolas, and an Allen key of size 3. - - -Make sure that the front side is the one where the labeling and display are visible and accessible. On the aluminum profiles, there is a hole for the front side. - -Slide the T-nuts into the aluminum profile. The rounded side should face downwards, while the flat side should face upwards. Attach the gondolas to the aluminum profiles using the screws. Pay attention to the order as shown in the illustration. The outer gondolas have a logo that faces outward, while the inner ones have labeling. Ensure that the gondolas do not extend beyond the aluminum profiles. The aluminum profiles should protrude about 2 mm outward. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-your-own-filament-cooling-system-/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-your-own-filament-cooling-system-/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8de66b45c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-your-own-filament-cooling-system-/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Insertion of fans - - -Now you can flip the JARVIS Airpath over, as you need to screw in the fans here. Insert the fans into the system, making sure that the tips of the cones are facing inward and the cables for the display are pulled out through the hole in the aluminum profile. Ensure that the fans rotate without touching the cables. Screw the grilles and fans onto the gondola. - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-your-own-filament-cooling-system-/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-your-own-filament-cooling-system-/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9e93104e9..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-your-own-filament-cooling-system-/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Attaching the support feet - - -To screw the feet securely, you will need 4 T-nuts, 4 hard plastic washers, 4 rubber feet, 4 screws in size M5 x 14, and an Allen key in size 4. - -The JARVIS Airpath is placed on the rubber feet. The hard plastic washers are positioned between the rubber feet and the aluminum profile. Screw two support feet into the aluminum profile. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-your-own-filament-cooling-system-/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-your-own-filament-cooling-system-/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index fb3d4e032..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-your-own-filament-cooling-system-/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Attaching the control box - - -Now you will attach the control box. For this, you will need 4 T-nuts and 4 screws in size M5 x 8. - -Insert the T-nuts into the aluminum profile and screw the control box onto the front side. Make sure to route the power cables through the hole into the box. - - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-your-own-filament-cooling-system-/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-your-own-filament-cooling-system-/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2b2adddcd..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-your-own-filament-cooling-system-/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,14 +0,0 @@ -### Completion of the control box - - -You now need the control cover, the display box, the DC jack, 4 set screws, an Allen wrench size 2.5, and a small screwdriver size 0.35 / 2.5. - -Open the display box and remove the green start button from the palette. - -Now, attach the display to the control cover. The black border on the display should face downward. Insert the fan control through the smaller hole. Insert the green start button through the larger hole and place it back into the palette. On the inside, first secure the buttons with the thin metal ring, and then tighten the nut. - -Attach the DC jack through the side hole of the control box. Thread the cables through the hole into the box. - -Before closing the box, screw the cables into the designated terminals. The black cables go into the "-" symbol, and the red cables go into the "+" marking. - -Secure the control box to the display cover using the set screws. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-your-own-filament-cooling-system/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-your-own-filament-cooling-system/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 064f4756e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-your-own-filament-cooling-system/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Build your own filament cooling system - - -In this how to we will show you how you can assemble your JARVIS Airpath cooling system in 6 easy steps - -You can check out our JARVIS Airpath video here: -https://youtu.be/6Ae6oDKhqiE - -Feel free to visit our website :) -https://www.qitech.de/en/industries \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-your-own-filament-cooling-system/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-your-own-filament-cooling-system/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9ae9303b1..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-your-own-filament-cooling-system/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Preparation of the gondolas - - -First, prepare the 4 gondolas by pressing the included magnets into the upper holes. Later, the clips, which also carry magnets, will be attached to them. Make sure that all the magnets in the gondolas are oriented in the same polarity so that the magnet clips will be attracted to them later from the opposite polarity. - -The clips have 2 holes on the inside for the magnets. Insert the magnets in the correct orientation so that the magnet clips are attracted to the gondolas. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-your-own-filament-cooling-system/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-your-own-filament-cooling-system/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 23cc75c81..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-your-own-filament-cooling-system/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Attachment of the gondolas to the aluminum profile - - -Next, we will attach the 4 gondolas to the aluminum profiles. For this, you will need 16 T-nuts, 16 screws of size M5 x 8, both aluminum profiles, the 4 gondolas, and an Allen key of size 3. - - -Make sure that the front side is the one where the labeling and display are visible and accessible. On the aluminum profiles, there is a hole for the front side. - -Slide the T-nuts into the aluminum profile. The rounded side should face downwards, while the flat side should face upwards. Attach the gondolas to the aluminum profiles using the screws. Pay attention to the order as shown in the illustration. The outer gondolas have a logo that faces outward, while the inner ones have labeling. Ensure that the gondolas do not extend beyond the aluminum profiles. The aluminum profiles should protrude about 2 mm outward. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-your-own-filament-cooling-system/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-your-own-filament-cooling-system/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9815daa59..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-your-own-filament-cooling-system/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Insertion of fans - - -Now you can flip the JARVIS Airpath over, as you need to screw in the fans here. Insert the fans into the system, making sure that the tips of the cones are facing inward and the cables for the display are pulled out through the hole in the aluminum profile. Ensure that the fans rotate without touching the cables. Screw the grilles and fans onto the gondola. - - -To screw the feet securely, you will need 4 T-nuts, 4 hard plastic washers, 4 rubber feet, 4 screws in size M5 x 14, and an Allen key in size 4. - -The JARVIS Airpath is placed on the rubber feet. The hard plastic washers are positioned between the rubber feet and the aluminum profile. Screw two support feet into the aluminum profile. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-your-own-filament-cooling-system/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-your-own-filament-cooling-system/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9e93104e9..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-your-own-filament-cooling-system/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Attaching the support feet - - -To screw the feet securely, you will need 4 T-nuts, 4 hard plastic washers, 4 rubber feet, 4 screws in size M5 x 14, and an Allen key in size 4. - -The JARVIS Airpath is placed on the rubber feet. The hard plastic washers are positioned between the rubber feet and the aluminum profile. Screw two support feet into the aluminum profile. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-your-own-filament-cooling-system/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-your-own-filament-cooling-system/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index fb3d4e032..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-your-own-filament-cooling-system/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Attaching the control box - - -Now you will attach the control box. For this, you will need 4 T-nuts and 4 screws in size M5 x 8. - -Insert the T-nuts into the aluminum profile and screw the control box onto the front side. Make sure to route the power cables through the hole into the box. - - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/build-your-own-filament-cooling-system/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/build-your-own-filament-cooling-system/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2b2adddcd..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/build-your-own-filament-cooling-system/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,14 +0,0 @@ -### Completion of the control box - - -You now need the control cover, the display box, the DC jack, 4 set screws, an Allen wrench size 2.5, and a small screwdriver size 0.35 / 2.5. - -Open the display box and remove the green start button from the palette. - -Now, attach the display to the control cover. The black border on the display should face downward. Insert the fan control through the smaller hole. Insert the green start button through the larger hole and place it back into the palette. On the inside, first secure the buttons with the thin metal ring, and then tighten the nut. - -Attach the DC jack through the side hole of the control box. Thread the cables through the hole into the box. - -Before closing the box, screw the cables into the designated terminals. The black cables go into the "-" symbol, and the red cables go into the "+" marking. - -Secure the control box to the display cover using the set screws. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/calculate-your-sheet-parameters/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/calculate-your-sheet-parameters/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index c4a728395..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/calculate-your-sheet-parameters/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Calculate Your Sheet Parameters - - -This tool will help you operate a Precious Plastic sheetpress and calculate the parameters (time, material weight, and temperature). \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/calculate-your-sheet-parameters/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/calculate-your-sheet-parameters/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index b712b6cf2..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/calculate-your-sheet-parameters/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Create a copy of the document - - This document is locked so that everyone can view it. To create a workable version, make sure you're signed into your google account and then create a copy that you can store in your own google drive. Then you'll be able to edit the document. - -Make sure to *not* to request edit access! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/calculate-your-sheet-parameters/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/calculate-your-sheet-parameters/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 434e94dc7..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/calculate-your-sheet-parameters/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Enter your specific parameters - - Navigate to the "Calculator" page of the google sheet. At the top in the blue boxes, enter the dimensions of the sheets that you are making. Next select from the dropdown in cell B9 what type of plastic you are working with. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/calculate-your-sheet-parameters/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/calculate-your-sheet-parameters/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8fc9d6490..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/calculate-your-sheet-parameters/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Check the results! - - Great - now you can check the results for your sheet. - -See the bottom half of the "calculator" page to see: -- How much plastic you should put into your mold -- What temperature you should set your machine too -- How long you should melt for \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/calculate-your-sheet-parameters/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/calculate-your-sheet-parameters/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index cca903ed6..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/calculate-your-sheet-parameters/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Adjust the assumptions based on your learnings - - The assumptions in this document are based on our experience using our machine. All machines, conditions, and plastic is different. You can adjust your assumptions based on your experience after giving it a few trials. - -You can adjust the assumption parameters by navigating to the "assumptions" tab on the bottom of the sheet. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/carabiner-mould-cnc-vs-lasercut/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/carabiner-mould-cnc-vs-lasercut/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 25f186a35..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/carabiner-mould-cnc-vs-lasercut/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Carabiner mould (CNC vs. lasercut) - - - A carabiner is a useful token that can be given away after an injection moulding workshop at Precious Plastic. Its small size allows you to make up to 6 pieces in one mould, and no assembly needed after injection. - -Each of them will come out with a different marbling pattern, making them unique and memorable! diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/carabiner-mould-cnc-vs-lasercut/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/carabiner-mould-cnc-vs-lasercut/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index c912f3733..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/carabiner-mould-cnc-vs-lasercut/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### CNC or laser cut? - - CNC moulds are precise and allow you to have a better surface finish rounded corners, also they are lightweight, durable and fast to unmould, since you can make products with draft angles, so it's ideal for bigger productions. However they can be very expensive and not super accessible. - -On the other hand, the laser cut version of this product will make you save some money and very probably is going to be easier for you to find someone to make this job for you! However steel density is 3 times higher than aluminum which makes it harder to work with, also it'll have less details, as you will only get the outline of the carabiner therefore the edges will be sharper. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/carabiner-mould-cnc-vs-lasercut/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/carabiner-mould-cnc-vs-lasercut/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index cf7516b60..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/carabiner-mould-cnc-vs-lasercut/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### CNC - Prepare the file - - First of all, decide if you want to customise your carabiners or not. If you are already investing in the CNC cutting, it can make sense to take advantage and add some cool engravings. - -To make it even more functional, you can add your logo, web page and even the plastic type you will use (PP in this case), so then you’ll not need to stamp it afterwards, one step less! To know more about tips and tricks for CNC moulds go to the academy section. - -Here some tips on how to make injection moulds: -👉 https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/create/injection-moulds - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/carabiner-mould-cnc-vs-lasercut/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/carabiner-mould-cnc-vs-lasercut/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 419b7a312..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/carabiner-mould-cnc-vs-lasercut/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### CNC - Mould - - After you customise you mould, you will be ready to send it to cnc. After you receive it, you’ll need to finish some details be able to use it with the injection machine. To know more about how to prepare your mould to use it with the injection machine, go to te link below. - -Here some tips for using the Injection machine: -👉 https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/work-with-the-injection-machine \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/carabiner-mould-cnc-vs-lasercut/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/carabiner-mould-cnc-vs-lasercut/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 77f8c63c7..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/carabiner-mould-cnc-vs-lasercut/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### CNC - Prepare your material - - The material we are going to use for this product is Polypropylene, because of its flexibility. This is very important to make these carabiners functional. - -Try to use one source of PP as a base to make it as pure a possible (at least 70%) and then add a couple of colorful flakes from other source (also PP) to make it fun. - -To fill up this mould you will need around 100 grams, I would recommend you to always fill up the barrel to be able to inject with more pressure! diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/carabiner-mould-cnc-vs-lasercut/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/carabiner-mould-cnc-vs-lasercut/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4bd3e90f5..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/carabiner-mould-cnc-vs-lasercut/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### CNC - Inject and finish - - After injecting you should be able to take the carabiners from the mould just by twisting them. - -Then you just need to remove the leftovers from the twisting process with a cutter. - -Now your carabiners are ready to use! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/carabiner-mould-cnc-vs-lasercut/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/carabiner-mould-cnc-vs-lasercut/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 09e236dd1..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/carabiner-mould-cnc-vs-lasercut/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Laser cut - Prepare the file - - Download the file and send it to laser cut in steel, it’s important to ask for the middle plate (n°2) in 6 mm thick steel. This will determine the thickness of the final product. - -The top and bottom plate (1 and 3) should be cut with 8-10 mm thick steel (the thicker the better, but also heavier!) to make the mould stronger and avoid bending while injecting. - -(If you have other ways to reinforce moulds keeping it lighter, go for it! And don't forget to share (: ). - -If you are good with the grinder you can also cut these two by yourself or just send everything to lasercut! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/carabiner-mould-cnc-vs-lasercut/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/carabiner-mould-cnc-vs-lasercut/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7d0890773..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/carabiner-mould-cnc-vs-lasercut/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Laser cut - Finish the mould - - After receiving your laser cut order you will probably need to sand the middle plate. - -Depending on how dirty the cut is, either use the grinder or just do it by hand with sanding paper. - -After this, weld the nozzle. It goes exactly to the center of the top plate with a 5 mm hole, so you can drill a bigger hole with the diameter of the nozzle. - -Now close the mould, remember to tighten the bolts very well and your are ready to go! diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/carabiner-mould-cnc-vs-lasercut/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/carabiner-mould-cnc-vs-lasercut/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index 6e4452e99..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/carabiner-mould-cnc-vs-lasercut/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Laser cut - Inject and finish - - -Time to inject! - -To separate the middle plate from the top plate, hammer a bolt into the nozzle, you will be able to support the top and middle part with two pieces of wood to do this step, as you can see in the first picture (that's why the middle one is sligthly smaller). - -Afterwards tap the channels gently to take everything out from the mould. You can use something like a bolt for this. - -Whenever it's out, twist the carabiner from the channel and finish it with a cutter. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/carabiner-mould-cnc-vs-lasercut/step_8.md b/resources/howtos-oa/carabiner-mould-cnc-vs-lasercut/step_8.md deleted file mode 100644 index 6ada83516..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/carabiner-mould-cnc-vs-lasercut/step_8.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Mark your products! - - Last but not least, stamp your carabiners! - -This is one of the most important steps and at the same time, the most forgotten. It’s very important to stamp your plastic in order to be able to recycle it in the future if its needed. - -You can either engrave it by hand with a dremel directly into your mould or make a stamp which you can also use for other products. - -Here you can find a tutorial on how to make a simple wire stamp: -👉 https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/make-a-simple-stamp-from-copper-wire \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/carabiner-mould-cnc-vs-lasercut/step_9.md b/resources/howtos-oa/carabiner-mould-cnc-vs-lasercut/step_9.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9baf8a5ff..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/carabiner-mould-cnc-vs-lasercut/step_9.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Done! - - And here you go, you got your first bunch of carabiners! -Have fun with them and use them to inspire people about the hidden value of plastic waste :) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/chain-mould/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/chain-mould/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index abaaf4dc7..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/chain-mould/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Chain mould - - -This is a mold for making closed-links chains. It was made together with @@{rrguoBLGigPW35rVXqCoPTQdjh13:johannplasto} (https://community.preciousplastic.com/u/johannplasto) - -We decided to make the chains closed so that they could hold more weight than the opened ones. This mold was specifically made for making phone chains and due to the different ways a phone can be grabbed, we felt this was the safest way to go! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/chain-mould/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/chain-mould/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 5fd24fcfc..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/chain-mould/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,16 +0,0 @@ -### Download and mill the mold - - In the zip. folder you'll find: - -- Chain mold top part STEP file -- Chain mold bottom part STEP file -- Chain mold top part blueprint -- Chain mold bottom part blueprint - -This is quite a complex mould, it's an 8 part mold, so make sure to find the right manufacturer for it! - -Here are a few things to consider: -- You'll need x4 of the bottom part and x4 of the top part. -- There are threads needed in the mould (it's not possible to make a hole through, because there is the geometry of the chain on the way). -- You'll need steel or aluminium 7050 or aluminium 7075. -- Each link includes the Polypropylene logo because we made them with this material. Make sure to change the logo if you are planning on using a different kind of plastic. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/chain-mould/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/chain-mould/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 76d177595..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/chain-mould/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Inject - - Inject your first set of links and then use them as "inserts" in the mold to inject around them, then keep on doing the same until you reach the desired chain lenght. This mould will allow you to create 4 very strong chains at the time. - -You can also use this how-to as inspiration to make other products that could be made with this method :) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/chain-mould/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/chain-mould/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index aefb87ab1..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/chain-mould/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Get creative! - - There's multiple posibilities when it comes to chains! You can use them for making handles, eyewear straps, phone charms, space dividers and more! - -You can also make the links smaller or bigger, depending on the application :) - -Please tag @​​​​​madplastic_ and @@{rrguoBLGigPW35rVXqCoPTQdjh13:johannplasto} on IG if you decide to replicate this mold, we would love to see the results! - -Happy melting 😊 \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/chess-pieces-/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/chess-pieces-/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 98d90b483..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/chess-pieces-/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Chess pieces - - -Using acrylic modules, you can create chess pieces out of recycled plastic. You can make 3d standing pieces as well as the board all with reusing plastic. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/chess-pieces-/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/chess-pieces-/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2427d85ee..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/chess-pieces-/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Design - - You should get pictures of chess pieces online and then add them to Illustrator. In Illustrator, you would make it sho only the outline is visible so the laser cutter can cut the piece's shape, leaving room for the injection molding. You would need the edit the bottom to add spaces. This is so you can create a base for the chess pieces and make them stand easily. You would do this for every shape. I added two or more chess pieces of chess pieces to every module to save acrylic. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/chess-pieces-/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/chess-pieces-/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index b1a3fbc05..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/chess-pieces-/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Creation - - After all your designs are done, you need to export, save them as an AI file, and export them onto glow forge for the laser cutter. You need to add acrylic to the laser cutter and then remove all the mold. Before moving the modules, make sure that the laser cutter fully passes through all of the pieces to save acrylic. If it did not pass through, make an outline to go through them again. After cutting the pieces, you add them to the injection molding machine. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/chess-pieces-/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/chess-pieces-/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7cc9853ef..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/chess-pieces-/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Complete product - - When you add the modules to the plastic machine, you must apply force and create the module. You would need to do this with every piece. After this, you would add the base to make the chess pieces functional. You would need to make two complete sets, one white and one black. After this, you will have your final product. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/chess-pieces/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/chess-pieces/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 699ab97b5..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/chess-pieces/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Chess pieces - - -Using acrylic modules, you can create chess pieces out of recycled plastic. You can make 3d standing pieces as well as the board all with reusing plastic. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/chess-pieces/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/chess-pieces/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2427d85ee..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/chess-pieces/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Design - - You should get pictures of chess pieces online and then add them to Illustrator. In Illustrator, you would make it sho only the outline is visible so the laser cutter can cut the piece's shape, leaving room for the injection molding. You would need the edit the bottom to add spaces. This is so you can create a base for the chess pieces and make them stand easily. You would do this for every shape. I added two or more chess pieces of chess pieces to every module to save acrylic. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/chess-pieces/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/chess-pieces/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index b1a3fbc05..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/chess-pieces/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Creation - - After all your designs are done, you need to export, save them as an AI file, and export them onto glow forge for the laser cutter. You need to add acrylic to the laser cutter and then remove all the mold. Before moving the modules, make sure that the laser cutter fully passes through all of the pieces to save acrylic. If it did not pass through, make an outline to go through them again. After cutting the pieces, you add them to the injection molding machine. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/chess-pieces/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/chess-pieces/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7cc9853ef..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/chess-pieces/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Complete product - - When you add the modules to the plastic machine, you must apply force and create the module. You would need to do this with every piece. After this, you would add the base to make the chess pieces functional. You would need to make two complete sets, one white and one black. After this, you will have your final product. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/clothes-hanger-mould-25116/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/clothes-hanger-mould-25116/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 69098284c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/clothes-hanger-mould-25116/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Clothes Hanger Mould - - -This one is a CNC machined mould, so find your favorite CNC provider and prepare to inject lots of hangers! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/clothes-hanger-mould-25116/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/clothes-hanger-mould-25116/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 04ba2c1a6..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/clothes-hanger-mould-25116/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Download the files - - Into the files you'll find: - -- General drawings -- .IGES files -- .STEP files -- Parasolid files -- Solidworks editable file \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/clothes-hanger-mould-25116/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/clothes-hanger-mould-25116/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index ac0eb9e3f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/clothes-hanger-mould-25116/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Machine your mould - - For the mould you will need two aluminum blocks of 430mm by 255mm by 25mm. - -Find your CNC favorite machinist and send them the files. - -You can choose to make it with the hole to add your logo or you can leave it flat (both files are in the download) - -If you want to go further, you can change the dimentions or any other part of the design with the editable SW file. Don't forget to share all the new ideas! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/clothes-hanger-mould-25116/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/clothes-hanger-mould-25116/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 81158591a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/clothes-hanger-mould-25116/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Select the nozzle - - According to your machine nozzle, select the type of flange you will use to connect the mould. - -For a conical nozzle, it is a flat 6mm flange with a bevel to recieve the nozzle. With slots to stay aligned with the screw heads. It is not fixed to the mold, only pressed with the jack between the mold and the nozzle. - -For a screw nozzle, you have to weld the pipe connector to the flange and fix the flange to the mold with the closing screws. - -Feel free to addapt the design to your needs or propose a better solution :) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/clothes-hanger-mould-25116/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/clothes-hanger-mould-25116/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4f8f5a3b4..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/clothes-hanger-mould-25116/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Add the logo - - If you choosed to make the mold with logos, add the engraved sheet to the mould. - -This example is a metal sheet engraved by acid metal etching. A process commonly used in the printing industry. - -Cut and file the sheet to it's final size and embed it inside the hole. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/clothes-hanger-mould-25116/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/clothes-hanger-mould-25116/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 767ed3671..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/clothes-hanger-mould-25116/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Inject your hangers! - - Heat up your machine, add the plastic in the color mixture you love and inject your hangers! - -The final wheight is around 81 grams. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/clothes-hanger-mould/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/clothes-hanger-mould/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 69098284c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/clothes-hanger-mould/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Clothes Hanger Mould - - -This one is a CNC machined mould, so find your favorite CNC provider and prepare to inject lots of hangers! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/clothes-hanger-mould/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/clothes-hanger-mould/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 765c4796c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/clothes-hanger-mould/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### - - \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/clothes-hanger-mould/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/clothes-hanger-mould/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 765c4796c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/clothes-hanger-mould/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### - - \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/clothes-hanger-mould/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/clothes-hanger-mould/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 765c4796c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/clothes-hanger-mould/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### - - \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/cnc-plastic-sheets-into-products/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/cnc-plastic-sheets-into-products/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index ce5e035d0..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/cnc-plastic-sheets-into-products/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### CNC plastic sheets into products - - -In this how to, I will show you our process to cut HDPE Sheets using a X-Carve CNC. - -Here is the full video in spanish with subtitles https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4LrrFz802To \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/cnc-plastic-sheets-into-products/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/cnc-plastic-sheets-into-products/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 322b4308d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/cnc-plastic-sheets-into-products/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Meassure the plastic sheet - - For this step we need to meassure our plastic sheet: Height, Width and Thickness. Our X-Carve machine works with the CAM Software EASEL, for me, the easiest software for CNC milling out there. - -The cool thing about Easel (https://easel.inventables.com/) is that you can "simulate" you actual material and THEY EVEN HAVE HDPE 2-Colors in their cutting material lists!! - - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/cnc-plastic-sheets-into-products/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/cnc-plastic-sheets-into-products/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7165a4d49..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/cnc-plastic-sheets-into-products/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Secure sheet - - Using the CNC clamps from the X-Carve, secure the sheet to the table, \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/cnc-plastic-sheets-into-products/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/cnc-plastic-sheets-into-products/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2cf28a7fa..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/cnc-plastic-sheets-into-products/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Choosing a file to cut - - Now we go to our illustrator, such as Inkscape to design a vector file or download and open source one frome https://thenounproject.com/. - -We download the SVG file, which is an open source vector format and import it to Easel. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/cnc-plastic-sheets-into-products/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/cnc-plastic-sheets-into-products/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 89ce1955e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/cnc-plastic-sheets-into-products/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Follow the cutting Wizzard - - Now with the file we can choose the width we want to carve/cut and then we go to cut and start the wizzard: -- We check that the sheet is fixed. -- We also specify the cutting bit, we are using a 1/8 flat flute bit. -- We tell the machine where the coordinate 0-0 is, which we always choose as the down left corner. -- We raise the bit, turn on the Router!!! - -AND PUM THE MAGIC BEGINS!! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/cnc-plastic-sheets-into-products/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/cnc-plastic-sheets-into-products/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 75477e7dc..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/cnc-plastic-sheets-into-products/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Cutting HDPE vs other material - - Normaly we cut wood, acrylic and aluminum in the CNC. Moving to plastic wasn't hard at all, it's impressing how easy the router -cuts through HDPE. It's quicker than cutting wood and 10 times than aluminum. - -The main problem we have with the HDPE sheets is that we don't always have even surfaces, because of our sheet making process, resulting in uneven cuts and engravings. - -That's why we sometimes do a first pass with the router "cleaning" the surface of the sheet and trying to mill an even surface. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/cnc-plastic-sheets-into-products/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/cnc-plastic-sheets-into-products/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 3b7a95320..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/cnc-plastic-sheets-into-products/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Post-production and show case - - You take now your glasses or object and postprocess them and of course show it to your friends, family and so on. - - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/coaster-from-coffee-waste/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/coaster-from-coffee-waste/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 63aeae519..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/coaster-from-coffee-waste/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Coaster from coffee waste - - -This exponential coffee craze has led us to a staggering amount of coffee ground that is just wasted. Here is how you can turn that waste into something more valuable with all the simple ingredients and also appliances used. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/coaster-from-coffee-waste/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/coaster-from-coffee-waste/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7c913e81c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/coaster-from-coffee-waste/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Prepare all the ingredients - - Prep all the ingredients now as the cooking process occurs quickly. For this particular brick and mold, I use a mixture of 7 tbsp of tapioca starch, 10 tbsp of coffee ground waste, 1 tbsp of vinegar, and 180 ml of water. However, different blends can create different brick characteristics, so try various ratios for different results. The tapioca starch acts as a binding agent while the coffee ground is the “filler†and the dye. Mix all the ingredients well until there are no lumps in the mixture. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/coaster-from-coffee-waste/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/coaster-from-coffee-waste/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 82d627b4a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/coaster-from-coffee-waste/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Cooking process - - This process is fast so get into high gear! Cook the mixture on low heat while constantly stirring it until it thickens. Once the mixture has thickened, turn off the heat, and the cooking process is done. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/coaster-from-coffee-waste/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/coaster-from-coffee-waste/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 18ebe807e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/coaster-from-coffee-waste/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Mold your mixture - - Transfer the thickened mixture to your mold. You can use wax or line the mold using wax paper to help release the mold when it has dried out. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/coaster-from-coffee-waste/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/coaster-from-coffee-waste/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index fa7f44667..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/coaster-from-coffee-waste/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Waiting Game - - Let the mixture dry into a solid piece at room temperature. This process can take from 2 up to 4 days depending on the size of the mold and the thickness of the brick. After it already forms into a solid brick, pull the brick out of the mold and dry it further until the brick is as hard as desired. You can also speed up this process by using an oven to quickly dry the brick. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/coin-for-mould-design/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/coin-for-mould-design/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index f9e8d509c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/coin-for-mould-design/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Coin for Mould Design - - -Advantages: -*Implement the Precious Plastic plastic type coin directly into your mold. -*Get a good embossing quality. -*Never forget to tag the type of plastic on your product. -*Save time. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/coin-for-mould-design/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/coin-for-mould-design/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 14417ae47..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/coin-for-mould-design/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Order the coins & check - - Visit the Precious Plastic bazar and search for "coins" or just hop here: -https://bazar.preciousplastic.com/extras/precious-plastic-stamps/ - -Check the dimensions. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/coin-for-mould-design/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/coin-for-mould-design/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 788effaf5..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/coin-for-mould-design/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Design the pocket - - Pocket-Diameter a bit bigger than the coin: 20,4mm (2.4mm) - -Depth: 2,94mm (2.94mm) - -Make sure to add a drilling under the coin if the coin is not inserted at the mould parting surface. - -You can also make the pocket-depth smaller, so you will see the ring of the coin better. - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/coin-for-mould-design/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/coin-for-mould-design/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9ede6602c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/coin-for-mould-design/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Insert & inject - - Choose the correct plastic type coin, insert, produce & let the part in the mould cool down. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/collect-more-of-one-plastic-type/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/collect-more-of-one-plastic-type/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index e61d5703b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/collect-more-of-one-plastic-type/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Collect more of one Plastic Type! - - -Want to collect more of a certain type of plastic for a specific project? - -Find out how we do it here 🙂 \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/collect-more-of-one-plastic-type/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/collect-more-of-one-plastic-type/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 73765bc20..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/collect-more-of-one-plastic-type/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11 +0,0 @@ -### Decide which Plastic you need - - If you are wanting to do an HDPE2 based project, don't ask the community for HDPE2... - -...🤔 - -...instead find out which products used locally are made from HDPE2 😀 - -For us, this would be milk cartons, lids and breakfast cereal inner bags 😠- -Then ask for these...on social media, local Post Office notice board or a shop window! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/collect-more-of-one-plastic-type/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/collect-more-of-one-plastic-type/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index bbbf5ef35..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/collect-more-of-one-plastic-type/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11 +0,0 @@ -### Another type of plastic? - - Once you have completed that project... - -...it's time for another type and another project 🙂 - -PP05...just ask for Contact Lense covers and cases... - -Or Chinese type pots... - -Or even chocolate & sweet wrappers 😀 \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/collect-more-of-one-plastic-type/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/collect-more-of-one-plastic-type/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index b945dbf1e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/collect-more-of-one-plastic-type/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11 +0,0 @@ -### How about another Project? - - While you wait for enough materials to come in for your projects... - -Why not try out a different perspective 🤔 - -Use plastic for an artwork project to brighten up your workspace 😃 - -Happy sorting 😊💖 - -Recycle Today to Save Tomorrow ðŸŒðŸŒž \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/collecting-plastic-in-arugam-bay-sri-lanka/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/collecting-plastic-in-arugam-bay-sri-lanka/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4796bca5f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/collecting-plastic-in-arugam-bay-sri-lanka/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Collecting plastic in Arugam Bay, Sri Lanka - - -Here we outline how we created an intervention into a booming tourist destination. As tourism related waste production diminished collection from the local population it is important to intervene and set up better collection mechanisms. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/collecting-plastic-in-arugam-bay-sri-lanka/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/collecting-plastic-in-arugam-bay-sri-lanka/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 24d3b1637..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/collecting-plastic-in-arugam-bay-sri-lanka/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Arugam Bay - - We’re based in Arugam Bay, a small town of only 150 people on the east coast of Sri Lanka. The little town’s economy is mainly based on tourism with seasonal fishing but lacks proper waste management. During tourist season tourism related businesses demand all waste management capacity of the municipality so even more locals than usual resort to burning their plastic waste. Also businesses were burning large piles of plastic bottles as tourists consume such a vast amount of it. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/collecting-plastic-in-arugam-bay-sri-lanka/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/collecting-plastic-in-arugam-bay-sri-lanka/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 937f2db79..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/collecting-plastic-in-arugam-bay-sri-lanka/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### What is Wasteless Arugam Bay (WLAB) - - We started WLAB in 2018 after we secured part of the financing through a USAID grant. We offer resource management, plastic collection, educational programs in schools and transform plastic waste into products. You know, the Precious Plastic jam! In total we are 3 full time employees. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/collecting-plastic-in-arugam-bay-sri-lanka/step_10.md b/resources/howtos-oa/collecting-plastic-in-arugam-bay-sri-lanka/step_10.md deleted file mode 100644 index 3d19bf1a6..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/collecting-plastic-in-arugam-bay-sri-lanka/step_10.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Volumes - - We collect about 1 ton a month. Which is a fraction of what is out there waiting to be recycled. Especially tricky is to collect from the local population. We could probably collect more than 4 tons a month of just PET! The problem is that collection is expensive and PET prices are low :( diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/collecting-plastic-in-arugam-bay-sri-lanka/step_11.md b/resources/howtos-oa/collecting-plastic-in-arugam-bay-sri-lanka/step_11.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2c5408b46..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/collecting-plastic-in-arugam-bay-sri-lanka/step_11.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Sorting - - Once the collected bottles come into our workspace we spend a considerable amount of time separating the bottle caps from the PET bottles placing them in the appropriate bags and containers. This job is done by one of our staff, sometimes tourists join in and lend us a hand. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/collecting-plastic-in-arugam-bay-sri-lanka/step_12.md b/resources/howtos-oa/collecting-plastic-in-arugam-bay-sri-lanka/step_12.md deleted file mode 100644 index 908a62f36..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/collecting-plastic-in-arugam-bay-sri-lanka/step_12.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Baling - - In order to maximise transport we bale all our PET bottles so we can transport them more efficiently and maximise our shipping. One bales consist of 700 - 800 bottles and weighs around 23 Kg. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/collecting-plastic-in-arugam-bay-sri-lanka/step_13.md b/resources/howtos-oa/collecting-plastic-in-arugam-bay-sri-lanka/step_13.md deleted file mode 100644 index a291d91c4..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/collecting-plastic-in-arugam-bay-sri-lanka/step_13.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Products - - With the PE bottle caps collected we make a variety of products including key rings, surf wax combs, buttons and buckles. These products are used within our company, sold to privates, or to fair trade wholesalers. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/collecting-plastic-in-arugam-bay-sri-lanka/step_14.md b/resources/howtos-oa/collecting-plastic-in-arugam-bay-sri-lanka/step_14.md deleted file mode 100644 index 62b7d71a5..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/collecting-plastic-in-arugam-bay-sri-lanka/step_14.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### The money bit - - We collect the bottles for free from the hotels and resorts (I know we should really charge them for the service, even more since we also supply the collection bins for free, lesson learned:)). While the collected PET is sold back to the industry for 55 Sri Lankan Rupees per kg (about 0.26 €). The products we make from the bottle caps are our high margin items for sure. The more value addition we can create the better the margin, bulk selling just the raw material is a very low margin operation and needs a decent scale. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/collecting-plastic-in-arugam-bay-sri-lanka/step_15.md b/resources/howtos-oa/collecting-plastic-in-arugam-bay-sri-lanka/step_15.md deleted file mode 100644 index 31411fcf8..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/collecting-plastic-in-arugam-bay-sri-lanka/step_15.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Connecting with the industry - - The good thing in Sri Lanka is that we have state of the art recycling companies that can process PET into recycled polyester yarn. The not so good thing is that the company pretty much has the monopoly on PET so it is tricky to get the best price without competition. (The same counts for glass. Only one buyer is available so they can set the price pretty much.) diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/collecting-plastic-in-arugam-bay-sri-lanka/step_16.md b/resources/howtos-oa/collecting-plastic-in-arugam-bay-sri-lanka/step_16.md deleted file mode 100644 index c987e17da..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/collecting-plastic-in-arugam-bay-sri-lanka/step_16.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11 +0,0 @@ -### The 3 most important things to start - - We’ve been running this operation for 2 years. It might feel a little daunting to start at the beginning. However, you don’t need to start a full operation from day one. The most essential things to start are: -- a dedicated team, -- a space, -- and most importantly: a good target area. - -For a collection operation the aim has to be to collect as much as possible with as little driving as possible. Tourist areas are ideal we believe as lots of waste is being generated by lots of people in a limited space. - -Hope this helps you getting started! -To end with, enjoy the video showing how we work :) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/collecting-plastic-in-arugam-bay-sri-lanka/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/collecting-plastic-in-arugam-bay-sri-lanka/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 3bfe67a79..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/collecting-plastic-in-arugam-bay-sri-lanka/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Our strategy - - Our strategy is to mainly collect clean PET bottles from the local population and businesses. The collected PET bottles are sold back to the industry while we keep the PE caps for our own recycling production. Sporadically we also run and assist beach cleanups. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/collecting-plastic-in-arugam-bay-sri-lanka/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/collecting-plastic-in-arugam-bay-sri-lanka/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 00ae39b91..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/collecting-plastic-in-arugam-bay-sri-lanka/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Our space - - We work in a big space in the centre of Arugam Bay. The space consists of two 20ft shipping containers and has easy access to the main road where lots of tourists wander around between a mojito and a surf session. This offers great visibility for us to educate everyone about the problem and the alternatives. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/collecting-plastic-in-arugam-bay-sri-lanka/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/collecting-plastic-in-arugam-bay-sri-lanka/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index d06af0198..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/collecting-plastic-in-arugam-bay-sri-lanka/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Focus on tourists - - We decided to focus on collecting plastic from the tourism related industry as they have such a vast amount of PET bottles which happen to be in high demand by the recycling industry in Sri Lanka to be turned into recycled polyester yarn. Also, the handling is relatively easy as the bottles are clean and the bottle caps are great for the Precious Plastic machines. Also it solves the problem of PET bottles clogging up waste management that has to go to landfill. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/collecting-plastic-in-arugam-bay-sri-lanka/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/collecting-plastic-in-arugam-bay-sri-lanka/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index d881da797..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/collecting-plastic-in-arugam-bay-sri-lanka/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Provide alternatives - - Our water refill system is public and anyone can refill for free. In the end we don’t really want to collect all these bottles! A tourist destination without any plastic bottles would be much better than a tourist destination that has a good collection for a vast amount of PET bottles \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/collecting-plastic-in-arugam-bay-sri-lanka/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/collecting-plastic-in-arugam-bay-sri-lanka/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index 6de34b52b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/collecting-plastic-in-arugam-bay-sri-lanka/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Bins - - We’ve distributed over 60 bins across town to various hotels, restaurants, resorts, mosques and shops. We’ve given them out free of charge but in hindsight we would rather hand them out with a deposit. A nice paint job also helps sending the message. Our bins have a big sticker indicating the plastic we collect and also has a message that encourages people to search for alternatives. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/collecting-plastic-in-arugam-bay-sri-lanka/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/collecting-plastic-in-arugam-bay-sri-lanka/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index 468119576..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/collecting-plastic-in-arugam-bay-sri-lanka/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Benefits for partners - - As tourists and hotels become more and more aware of the plastic waste problem, it is becoming increasingly crucial for businesses to look like they are doing something. For this reason it is incredibly easy to convince business owners to have our bins. However, we found it crucial to have credible staff member approaching the businesses, trusting that we are trying to do better things. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/collecting-plastic-in-arugam-bay-sri-lanka/step_8.md b/resources/howtos-oa/collecting-plastic-in-arugam-bay-sri-lanka/step_8.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9332892fb..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/collecting-plastic-in-arugam-bay-sri-lanka/step_8.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Transport - - To collect and transport our resources we wanted to have a fun and eye catching means of transport. We’ve tuned up a traditional tuk tuk with some amazing illustrations from a local artist. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/collecting-plastic-in-arugam-bay-sri-lanka/step_9.md b/resources/howtos-oa/collecting-plastic-in-arugam-bay-sri-lanka/step_9.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2b26c12e3..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/collecting-plastic-in-arugam-bay-sri-lanka/step_9.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Daily collection - - Every week we go out with our tuk tuk to collect the plastic from the different sites. During peak season we drive and collect every day as the amount peaks drastically with tourists arriving. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/compression-machine-21/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/compression-machine-21/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index e97f57417..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/compression-machine-21/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Compression machine 2.1 - - -This upgrade will make your compression machine way more efficient and streamlined. Off you go! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/compression-machine-21/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/compression-machine-21/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7cde676cc..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/compression-machine-21/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Get ready - - One of the main challenges with the V2 of our compression machine: It's a rather slow process if compared with the injection or extrusion. This is particularly true because the plastic is first heated, then compressed and cooled in the oven- lots of waiting time. Good for experimenting but not feasible if you want to run a production. - -With this upgrade the compression area (carjack) is shifted underneath the machine, this way the machine can run continuously. With this change you can now compress and cool one mould while you're heating up a second one. Besides being more productive and efficient this upgrade makes the machine easier to build as you don’t need to install the compression mechanism inside the oven. Take note of the drawings. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/compression-machine-21/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/compression-machine-21/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 6e44493a9..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/compression-machine-21/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Cut and weld metal - - Use the schematics to measure and cut your metal. Your oven may be a different size, so make sure you adjust the measurements where necessary. -Weld all your parts together and paint. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/compression-machine-21/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/compression-machine-21/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 157566f48..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/compression-machine-21/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Add the oven - - Take your desired oven and fasten it to the machine. If it already works then you could leave it as is, or you can install a PID controller which might give you slightly more control. -Tip: It’s never a bad idea to add more insulation which will make your machine more energy efficient. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/compression-machine-21/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/compression-machine-21/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index f54fbd2ac..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/compression-machine-21/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Melt your plastic! - - You can now use your oven for plastic recycling! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/construction-of-green-walls-with-recycled-plastic/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/construction-of-green-walls-with-recycled-plastic/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index c46a407f4..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/construction-of-green-walls-with-recycled-plastic/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Construction of green walls with recycled plastic - - -The trend towards the use of sustainable materials in various sectors of the consumer market has produced a large number of alternatives that can be used to contribute to the reduction of the environmental impact generated by their manufacture, use and durability. Such is the case of recycled plastic plates, which can replace those materials made with overexploited raw materials, offering advantages in the face of various factors such as climate and pollution, which generally affect the functioning capacity of living walls. commonly placed in outdoor spaces. -In the local market it is possible to identify various products and materials that allow the construction of living walls, however, in a significant number of them the use of traditional materials was detected, which brings with it difficulties in their operation, duration and adaptability, without have the sustainable criterion that will allow increasing the delivery of value to the local consumer market. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/construction-of-green-walls-with-recycled-plastic/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/construction-of-green-walls-with-recycled-plastic/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 0dd1ad346..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/construction-of-green-walls-with-recycled-plastic/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### First you need to have the recycled plastic plate - - According to the drawn pieces you need to cut them in a CNC cutting machine, the following images are the development of the gutter and the frame. - -Note. Reduces and cuts are needed to be considered in the drawings to be cut to later assemble the pieces. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/construction-of-green-walls-with-recycled-plastic/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/construction-of-green-walls-with-recycled-plastic/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index d1b8c46a2..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/construction-of-green-walls-with-recycled-plastic/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Join the pieces - - You have to bend the gutters and put a screw in them to maintain the shape of the gutter. You need to have 4 gutters per frame. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/construction-of-green-walls-with-recycled-plastic/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/construction-of-green-walls-with-recycled-plastic/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index adc96518c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/construction-of-green-walls-with-recycled-plastic/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Install the wall - - Once the gutters and frames you want are assembled, it is time to install them on the wall. - -1.-You need to place some anchors in the wall to support the green wall -2.-The frame begins to be attached to the wall -3.-Adjus the screw with a screwdriver so that it is fixed \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/construction-of-green-walls-with-recycled-plastic/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/construction-of-green-walls-with-recycled-plastic/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 16701eb97..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/construction-of-green-walls-with-recycled-plastic/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Modules installed - - The number of modules that are desired are installed. - -1.-Installed modules -2.-The plants begin to be put in the gutters -3.-Finally you finish the installation of your green wall \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/continuously-produce-sheets/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/continuously-produce-sheets/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9f9792dee..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/continuously-produce-sheets/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Continuously Produce Sheets - - -How to continuously produce sheets in a full “work day" or “work week†scenario using the Precious Plastic Sheetpress system to achieve a semi-mass-production scale output. - -Filled with lots of optimization and efficiently tips and tricks we have learned over the years! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/continuously-produce-sheets/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/continuously-produce-sheets/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 743c152fc..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/continuously-produce-sheets/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Check your setup - - First, check if you have the right safety equipment: You will need gloves, a mask, safety glasses and ventilation. - -As well as a sheetpress you will also need: a cooling press, prep table and sliding tools. (👀 https://tinyurl.com/3epj9222) - -To continuously produce sheets you will need a minimum of three pairs of mould sheets and one frame for each sheet you plan to make per day. It is a good idea to have a spare set of moulds in case any get damaged. The best beams to use for the mould frames are T beams as they are strong, light and cut the edge of the sheet nicely. We used 3mm Aluminium sheets for the mould as they are strong, light, conduct heat fast and do not stick to the plastic. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/continuously-produce-sheets/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/continuously-produce-sheets/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 51be69a7e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/continuously-produce-sheets/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,14 +0,0 @@ -### Write a timetable - - The heating and cooling time are typically the same. - -To estimate the heating and cooling times you can use the equation: 5 mins + (3*mm) as a rough starting point. This is only an estimated so make sure to test and optimize before a full day. - -You can offset each of the three transitions (1. Load in to sheetpress, 2. transfer into cooling press 3. Unload, demould and store) by half the cooling time (In this example 40 mins / 2 = 20 mins) to give you two nice big windows of time. - -You can use one of the windows to demould the sheet and one of the windows to prepare the next sheet. - -To make sure you don't miss any of the steps you can use a simple kitchen timer as a reminder. - - - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/continuously-produce-sheets/step_10.md b/resources/howtos-oa/continuously-produce-sheets/step_10.md deleted file mode 100644 index 011ecc8dd..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/continuously-produce-sheets/step_10.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Store the sheet - - Lift the sheet and lay it on top of the flat wooden strips you prepared earlier. -It is important to be very gentle with the sheet as you move it, any bends or twists at this stage increase the chances of it to warp later. - -Place the next row of wooden strips on top of the sheet perpendicular to the last. - -If you have one available, place a flat heavy sheet on top of the strips to keep them weighed down - in our case we used a spare heating plate. - -Check your timetable for when the next sheet has to be transferred to the cooling press. Once it has been transferred (Same as step 9), move the prep table back in front of the sheetpress ready to prepare the next sheet. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/continuously-produce-sheets/step_11.md b/resources/howtos-oa/continuously-produce-sheets/step_11.md deleted file mode 100644 index 6a8618de4..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/continuously-produce-sheets/step_11.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Repeat! - - You can now repeat steps 4-11 until your day is finished. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/continuously-produce-sheets/step_12.md b/resources/howtos-oa/continuously-produce-sheets/step_12.md deleted file mode 100644 index 82d21d277..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/continuously-produce-sheets/step_12.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Move to long term storage - - After the sheets are fully cooled, they can be moved into their long term storage. We recommend to let them cool down for a minimum of 12 hours (so the next morning whilst the press is heating up might be a good opportunity to do this). - -When transferring to long term storage, you can remove the wooden strips and stack the sheets ontop of eachother. Again, if you have one available, place a flat heavy sheet on top of the sheets to keep them weighed down. - -Don't forget to stamp them before you move on! (Check out here to find out How-to: https://tinyurl.com/3ymuf4wh) - -If they have any rough edges, you can clean them using either a knife or deburring tool. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/continuously-produce-sheets/step_13.md b/resources/howtos-oa/continuously-produce-sheets/step_13.md deleted file mode 100644 index d14e9eb9c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/continuously-produce-sheets/step_13.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Enjoy pressing and sharing! - - Make sure to share some pictures of your beautiful sheets, and products you make from them, on Discord, Facebook and Instagram (be sure to tag us in your posts and stories so we can share them too! @realpreciousplastic) when you come up with useful new techniques, machine hacks or products, make a How-to, upload it to our community platform and share it with the world! Remember what makes a community strong is that we are all working on this together, collaboratively, not competitively 😉 If you share it will encourage others to share also, which will help you and everyone else too! - -Happy pressing, keep sharing! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/continuously-produce-sheets/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/continuously-produce-sheets/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2f76d2599..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/continuously-produce-sheets/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Turn on your system - - One way to make sure you don't forget ventilation is to attach it to the same switch as the outlet for the sheetpress so it's impossible to turn on the sheetpress without the ventilation being on. - -Turn on the sheet press 45mins before your first sheet is due to go in, with the pressing plates closed, to allow it to heat up. Set the PID controller to match the type of plastic you are melting, if you are not sure you can check our “Melting temperatures†poster in the download kit or on the academy. - -Now that the press is on, you should wear a mask whilst in the space. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/continuously-produce-sheets/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/continuously-produce-sheets/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9893beb0f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/continuously-produce-sheets/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Prepare the mould - - Place one mould sheet on to the prep table. You can leave the other mould sheet flat on the ground with the side that will contact the plastic facing up. - -Apply a light layer of silicone to the mould sheets. We can highly recommend using a paint roller for this. We keep the paint roller in an airtight box to keep it free of dust. Try and find a sponge roller like in the picture, not one that has hair as they will break off and stick to the mould. - -Place the mould frame in the middle of the mould sheet on the prep table. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/continuously-produce-sheets/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/continuously-produce-sheets/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 844a225f6..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/continuously-produce-sheets/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Add your plastic - - Weigh your plastic - you can use a bucket on a bathroom scale, or hang one from a travel scale. To make it easy we found a bucket that matches the amount of plastic. -Tip: For 1sqm sheet it's 1kg of plastic (for most types) per 1mm of thickness +5%. - -Once weighed, pour the plastic into the mould frame. It’s important to spread the plastic as evenly as possible to reduce warping. To make sure it’s level, place two beams on each side of the mould, then rest a beam between them and drag it back and forth to flatten the surface. - -Finish preparing the mould by adding the second mould sheet. -Check your timetable for when the sheet is due to go into the sheetpress. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/continuously-produce-sheets/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/continuously-produce-sheets/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 060c78fbb..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/continuously-produce-sheets/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Press the sheet - - Open the sheetpress by releasing the jack. Most jacks release valve which opens using the pumping rod. - -Using the sliding tool, transfer the mould into the sheetpress. It’s important to slide it straight otherwise it will catch on the side frame. - -Now close the sheetpress (here we used pneumatic jacks with an air compressor to make it easy and fast). -Watch the spring to tell when the press is closed, if it's fully compressed, stop pressing. - -You should check the spring every 10 minutes, pressing when needed. Make sure the mould stays in the middle. Check your timetable for when the sheet has to be transferred. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/continuously-produce-sheets/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/continuously-produce-sheets/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index c79dcf165..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/continuously-produce-sheets/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Use the melt time to prepare - - Whilst the sheet is melting, you can use the time to prepare the place where the sheet will be stored. - -The sheets will be placed directly on strips of wood so that each side remains exposed to the uniform ambient temperature. Each successive sheet will be placed on top of the previous with more strips of wood perpendicular to the last. All of these strips of wood should have the same thickness to prevent uneven storage. - -You can also prepare the second sheet on the prep table (Same as steps 4-5). In preparation for the next sheet make sure that the cooling press is open. (It opens the same way as the sheetpress). diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/continuously-produce-sheets/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/continuously-produce-sheets/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index 263073161..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/continuously-produce-sheets/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Transfer the sheets - - Two minutes before the mould is due to be transferred from the sheetpress to the cooling press, apply pressure using the jack one last time, fully. During this two minutes scrape off any overflow from the mould to keep the transfer process clean. - -Once the melting time has completed, open the sheetpress. Using the sliding tool slide the sheet from the sheetpress into the cooling press. -Make sure to wear gloves. If you need to pull it from the other side you can use pliers to grip the edge of the bottom mould sheet allowing it to be moved. Do not pull the top mould sheet as it can open the mould. - -Close the cooling. Once the coldpress is fully closed, close the sheetpress to keep the heat. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/continuously-produce-sheets/step_8.md b/resources/howtos-oa/continuously-produce-sheets/step_8.md deleted file mode 100644 index f6c4e7e53..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/continuously-produce-sheets/step_8.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Transfer the next sheet - - Check your timetable for when the next sheet is due to go into the sheetpress. -Open the sheetpress and then using the sliding tool, transfer the mould into the sheetpress and close the sheetpress (same as in step 6). - -Check your timetable for when it is time to unload from the cooling press, demould and store the first sheet. You can prepare by moving the prep table in front of the cooling press. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/continuously-produce-sheets/step_9.md b/resources/howtos-oa/continuously-produce-sheets/step_9.md deleted file mode 100644 index ce018e6ad..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/continuously-produce-sheets/step_9.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Unload and demould the sheet - - Once the cooling time has completed, open the cooling press and slide the mould onto the prep table. - -Lift the top mould sheet off the mould and place it to one side. It should lift off without any resistance but if it's stuck, you may need to use a bit of force. Try not to bend it! If you lever it, make sure to use something that won't scratch the surface of the mould sheet (like a plastic beam or the overflow from a previous sheet). - -Gently try and remove the sheet from the bottom plate. If it has not stuck, it should slide freely on the mould sheet. If it has, use the same method as above to gently remove it. If it is stuck inside the frame you can leave it inside until full cooled. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/contribute-to-open-source-projects/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/contribute-to-open-source-projects/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7de6c906b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/contribute-to-open-source-projects/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Contribute to open source projects - - -Getting started with contributing to open source projects may seem a little daunting so we wrote a quick guide. This focuses on GitHub based projects as it is a core bit of software for collaborating on open source projects. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/contribute-to-open-source-projects/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/contribute-to-open-source-projects/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2690186b5..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/contribute-to-open-source-projects/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Find a project - - First find a project. You can take a look at some of our open source projects as we have many and are very welcoming to all collaborators. One army has many open source projects and from experience they are very welcoming too! - -https://github.com/onearmy - -https://github.com/darigovresearch/ diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/contribute-to-open-source-projects/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/contribute-to-open-source-projects/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 38044f78c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/contribute-to-open-source-projects/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Readme & contributing guide - - Take a look at the read the readme & contributing guidelines. These can give you guidance on what is expected from a pull request in order for it to be merged back. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/contribute-to-open-source-projects/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/contribute-to-open-source-projects/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index fe43ef353..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/contribute-to-open-source-projects/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### View the issues - - See the open issues to see if there’s anything you can do. We recommend finding something that is quick and simple to fix, particularly if it’s the first time you’re contributing to a project. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/contribute-to-open-source-projects/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/contribute-to-open-source-projects/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index c324027b3..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/contribute-to-open-source-projects/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Sign in/Sign up - - Make an account for the service provided or sign in if you have one already, just follow the steps in the UI and you should be fine. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/contribute-to-open-source-projects/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/contribute-to-open-source-projects/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index e9298485a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/contribute-to-open-source-projects/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Fork the repository - - This is done by clicking the fork button while signed in on the repository you’re interested in contributing to. You’ll know it’s yours as you’ll have your account name in the URL and at the top of the page. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/contribute-to-open-source-projects/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/contribute-to-open-source-projects/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 0ab06ed2a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/contribute-to-open-source-projects/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Make changes - - This can be done in the browser or on your local computer. - -In the browser you can edit the files by clicking on the file name & then the edit button. It will open a new page where you can edit it & preview the changes. If you’re uploading many files you can use the upload button & drag and drop them. You’ll need to add a message for what changes you’re making in the bottom of the page. - -To edit on your local computer you will need to clone your repository, make the updates locally, commit to the repository & push back to the server. If you’re working on a GitHub project if you want to work on it locally we recommend using the desktop app as it is quite intuitive and open source too! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/contribute-to-open-source-projects/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/contribute-to-open-source-projects/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index 6378f52a7..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/contribute-to-open-source-projects/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Make a pull request - - Follow any templates or guidelines that’s in the repository, give it a name that is understandable and a small succinct descriptions of the fixes or changes you’ve made. You can reference any issues by putting the issue number and it will automatically link it to the relevant issue for context. You may need to iterate based on the auto-generated tests (if they have any) or feedback given by the original repository maintainers. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/contribute-to-open-source-projects/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/contribute-to-open-source-projects/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index fa96d38fb..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/contribute-to-open-source-projects/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,15 +0,0 @@ -### Wait for it to be Merged - - Now hopefully it will be merged by the repository maintainers and you will have officially contributed to open source! - -If you need more details do take a look at the video that this how-to is based off. - -Check out the One Army GitHub page for repositories you can contribute to! - -https://github.com/onearmy - -If you need some wider context on other open source projects you can take a look at our website and our GitHub as well! - -https://www.darigovresearch.com/ - -https://github.com/darigovresearch/ diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/cool-stool/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/cool-stool/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4eaed7647..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/cool-stool/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Cool stool - - -In this tutorial you will learn how to create a stool from extrusions. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/cool-stool/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/cool-stool/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 1f1a55539..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/cool-stool/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Cut the beams - - To create a bench you have to cut 34 mm square beams : - -- 660 mm x4 ( feet) -- 340 mm x6 ( seat base ) -- 180 mm x8 - -Prepare a few small round extrusions to use them as trunnions. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/cool-stool/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/cool-stool/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 3ad8814c2..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/cool-stool/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Drill holes - - Then, you have to drill holes on the both sides of the 180mm beams. - -Drill two separate holes and then pierce between them to create a single one. The hole must be long enough to insert the nut. Be careful to not broaden it too much. - -TIPS : you can drill the corners with a small drill bit before you drill the big one. - -Next, drill the other beams with a 10mm large bit. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/cool-stool/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/cool-stool/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index d24e08029..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/cool-stool/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Assembling - - Now, you have to assemble the structure using bolts ! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/cool-stool/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/cool-stool/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index d17a98c3a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/cool-stool/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Seat base - - Drill the seat base beams with a bit as large as your trunnions. Then do it again with a larger bit a few mm deep to drown the head of the bolts. -You can now assemble the seat base using a mallet and a thermal stripper. The beams must be solidly attached. -You can sand down it if you want to make it perfect. - -Good job ! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-bench-with-2x4-beams/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-bench-with-2x4-beams/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 69d6ee52d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-bench-with-2x4-beams/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Create a bench with 2x4 beams - - -This how-to will showcase how to create a bench using 2x4 extruded beams. Once complete, your bench will consist of over 80 pounds of plastic waste! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-bench-with-2x4-beams/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-bench-with-2x4-beams/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index fade8c6e2..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-bench-with-2x4-beams/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,14 +0,0 @@ -### Prepare your material and equipment - - This process will require a few tools and equipment. These include: --V4 Extruder --2x4 mold( measurements= 1.5"x3.5"x6') --Roughly 85 lbs of shredded PP plastic --Cooling tank --Miter Saw --Drill --Drill Bits --Deck Screws - -Once you have all your material and equipment you're ready to get started! - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-bench-with-2x4-beams/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-bench-with-2x4-beams/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 52f9b6f73..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-bench-with-2x4-beams/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Prep - - In this step we want to make sure all of our plastic is as clean as possible, sorted by type ( and color if preferred), and shredded to desired flake size. For our bench we used all PP (#5) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-bench-with-2x4-beams/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-bench-with-2x4-beams/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 28a0c3879..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-bench-with-2x4-beams/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Extrude - - Now that all of our plastic is prepped it is ready to be extruded into beams. We set our extruder temps to 240 degrees Celsius for our PP plastic with good results. At this point the mold should now be attached. Once temps have been set, you can begin extruding at 45-50 rpms. Keep a close eye on the hopper ensuring it stays filled. Once all 6 feet of the mold has been filled it can be disconnected from the extruder and dropped in a cooling tank with cold water for about 20 min. After the plastic has solidified it can be removed from the mold. Repeat this step until you have 8 six foot beams. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-bench-with-2x4-beams/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-bench-with-2x4-beams/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index e2ec32f4b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-bench-with-2x4-beams/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Cut - - Now the beams need to be trimmed and cut to size. First, the beams will need to have the ends trimmed of any protruding plastic. - -Once trimmed, the beams will need to be cut using a chop saw to the measurements listed: -(4) 5’4†beams (Benchtop) -(1) 60†beam (Ground Support) -(4) 16†beams (Legs) -(6) 15†beams (Braces) -(2) 11 1/4†beams diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-bench-with-2x4-beams/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-bench-with-2x4-beams/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 3cf84327a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-bench-with-2x4-beams/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Staging - - Now that we have all our pieces made and cut to size we can begin assembly - -Now, Lay out your 4 longest beams next to each other to stage your bench top. Each beam should have roughly a quarter inch of spacing between them. Now add your braces along the ends of the benchtop \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-bench-with-2x4-beams/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-bench-with-2x4-beams/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 43fdd34a0..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-bench-with-2x4-beams/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Assemble - - At this point in the process we can begin attaching the beams using 2.5 inch deck screws. These holes should be pre-drilled with pilot holes to prevent cracking \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-bench-with-2x4-beams/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-bench-with-2x4-beams/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index 3bd9be289..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-bench-with-2x4-beams/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Attaching legs - - This is when the bench will start to take shape. While assembling we recommend doing so on a tarp to collect any shavings created by drilling to be re-used. - -Take your 16 inch beams and stage them as the legs on all four corners. Drill pilot holes and attach with screws. - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-bench-with-2x4-beams/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-bench-with-2x4-beams/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index d1b658421..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-bench-with-2x4-beams/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Attaching supports and braces - - Now that we have our bench top and legs, all that’s left is to brace and support the structure. Take your 15 inch beams and place them between the legs to create braces between them. Then take your 11 1/4 inch beams to create a support perpendicular to the bench, attaching the bench top to the 60 inch beam which will run across the bottom of the bench on the ground \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-bench-with-2x4-beams/step_8.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-bench-with-2x4-beams/step_8.md deleted file mode 100644 index 462a916f3..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-bench-with-2x4-beams/step_8.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Enjoy! - - Now you can find a great location to install your new bench whether it be in your backyard or local park! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-bowl-using-a-laser-cut-mould/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-bowl-using-a-laser-cut-mould/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index ff679f70d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-bowl-using-a-laser-cut-mould/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Create a bowl using a laser cut mould - - -Mathijs will show you how to create an iconic recycled bowl using a lasercut moud. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-bowl-using-a-laser-cut-mould/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-bowl-using-a-laser-cut-mould/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index c268b3d03..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-bowl-using-a-laser-cut-mould/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,14 +0,0 @@ -### Gather everything you need - - Before you start get all your gear ready: - -- Plastic (PP or PS) -- Lasercutted Metal -- Welding machine -- Sanding machine -- Sanding paper -- Compression machine -- Spray paint -- Knife -- Plastic Type Stamp - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-bowl-using-a-laser-cut-mould/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-bowl-using-a-laser-cut-mould/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2e9f3fbba..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-bowl-using-a-laser-cut-mould/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Watch this video tutorial - - Watch this video tutorial to learn step-by-step how to laser cut the mould, weld it together, polish it and create your bowl. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-bowl-using-a-laser-cut-mould/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-bowl-using-a-laser-cut-mould/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 484e56c6a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-bowl-using-a-laser-cut-mould/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Done & Share - - After watching this video you should understand the basics of how to work with lasercut moulds. You can reproduce the bowl or try to make other precious products. We’re looking forward to seeing what you can come up with. Make sure to share back your new creations so the community can learn from you. Tag #preciousplastic on social media, create a new how-to or send us an email. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-lamp-with-translucent-hdpe/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-lamp-with-translucent-hdpe/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index ee19413d2..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-lamp-with-translucent-hdpe/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Create a lamp with translucent HDPE - - -Hello, we created a little lamp in order to explore the properties of translucent HDPE. By carefully sorting shredded samples of transparent and coloured bottle cups you can achieve the "liquid like" effect you can appreciate in the picture. It's all about the colours you choose, you can come up with many different tasty plastic juices. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-lamp-with-translucent-hdpe/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-lamp-with-translucent-hdpe/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index c49b43123..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-lamp-with-translucent-hdpe/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Sorting and Shredding - - Grab some HDPE bottle cups from your local collection point. In order to create the liquid-light effect you see on the lamp you will need transparent cups and coloured cups. Choose according to your preferences. Sprinkling a little bit of shredded coloured plastic into your mixture will already dye and obscure the final result. Be patient and sort peacefully, enjoy the therapeutic exercise of shredding plastic. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-lamp-with-translucent-hdpe/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-lamp-with-translucent-hdpe/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index bf32cf759..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-lamp-with-translucent-hdpe/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Injection moulding - - As you can appreciate in the first picture, the light bulb is standing in between two discs. So, now its time to create the discs by injection moulding. Notice that we have used a mould with a thin wall thickness, 3 millimeters. On the other hand, check out the melting temperatures for HDPE at the Academy. Try different colour combinations. Less than 30 grams are needed per disc, so adding 3 or 4 grams of colour will already "obscure" your plastic juice. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-lamp-with-translucent-hdpe/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-lamp-with-translucent-hdpe/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8bdc26cec..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-lamp-with-translucent-hdpe/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Laser cut - - The clamp that holds both discs is made out from wood. We were able to use a laser cut machine at a public makerspace in our city to create a set of wooden pieces. The wood used for this design is 1 cm thick and you can find the CAD drawing at the download package. The clamp has been designed to hold a specific lamp holder and bulb. Feel free to adjust the drawing for the lamp holder you can find at your local electricity supplies storehouse. Later on, the wooden pieces were spray painted. -On the other hand, notice that a little square shaped indentation needs to be cut from the disc so that it pins and assembles to the wooden part. This way you can exchange different discs without glueing them to the wooden part. The aim is to create different lighting effects. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-lamp-with-translucent-hdpe/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-lamp-with-translucent-hdpe/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index cfd51bc99..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-lamp-with-translucent-hdpe/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Assembling the light and finding a place for it. - - Assembling the lamp should not take you much time, theoretically everything should fit tightly. If your final result is too shaky, consider using some glue to reinforce your structure. -Now you can place it at your bedsite table or on your working desk, even hanging it is an option. Let us know if you decide to make one, we'd love to see your results. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-notebook-with-sugar-cane-paper-and-pp/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-notebook-with-sugar-cane-paper-and-pp/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 286922ee4..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-notebook-with-sugar-cane-paper-and-pp/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,15 +0,0 @@ -### Create a Notebook with sugar cane paper and PP - - -How to create a notebook with sugar cane paper and precious plastic sheets with a personalized touch - -You will need: -- A 2mm sheet -- Sugar cane paper -- A Jig saw -- Something to mark on the sheet -- A hole saw -- Some rivets -- 10mm elastic -- A 5/32" drill -- A press \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-notebook-with-sugar-cane-paper-and-pp/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-notebook-with-sugar-cane-paper-and-pp/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 001c88143..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-notebook-with-sugar-cane-paper-and-pp/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Create marks on your sheet - - First, you will need to choose or make a 2mm sheet; in our case, we will be using 520mm x 520mm x 2mm sheets that we made. - -Once you have chosen the sheet that you are going to use, go ahead and place marks on it with the desired size of the covers of your notebook (you can use a marker or a cutter); as a pro tip, if you are going to make a lot of them as we are going to do, you can make a template to make your life easier. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-notebook-with-sugar-cane-paper-and-pp/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-notebook-with-sugar-cane-paper-and-pp/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index c3d43ec21..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-notebook-with-sugar-cane-paper-and-pp/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Cut the sheet - - With the jigsaw, start cutting through the marks you previously made; we like to use a blade suited for cutting metal; it leaves the best results. Also, be aware of your safety, so always use protective glasses and gloves, and press the sheet into the cutting table, so nothing moves. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-notebook-with-sugar-cane-paper-and-pp/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-notebook-with-sugar-cane-paper-and-pp/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index fa39e74d3..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-notebook-with-sugar-cane-paper-and-pp/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Clean the covers - - Using a small knife, you can clean the edges of the covers for a smooth result. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-notebook-with-sugar-cane-paper-and-pp/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-notebook-with-sugar-cane-paper-and-pp/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 3756e5f13..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-notebook-with-sugar-cane-paper-and-pp/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Open holes - - Since our notebook has an elastic band and an illustration, we need to open holes in the cover. Use a 5/35" drill for the elastic band in the back cover, and a 2" hole saw for the front one. You can pile up a bunch of covers for the drill, but with the hole saw, it is best to do it one by one, so the remaining circle is easier to take off the hole saw. As a safety measure, always press the covers and wear gloves and glasses. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-notebook-with-sugar-cane-paper-and-pp/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-notebook-with-sugar-cane-paper-and-pp/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 1fecfe5b5..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-notebook-with-sugar-cane-paper-and-pp/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Put the elastic on back cover - - Use the rivets to put the elastic on the back cover. The rivet we are using has 2 parts, so place the elastic and then each of the rivet parts on them. - -If you don't have a riveting machine, you can always use a hammer to close the rivet. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-notebook-with-sugar-cane-paper-and-pp/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-notebook-with-sugar-cane-paper-and-pp/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 1cb8112c2..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-notebook-with-sugar-cane-paper-and-pp/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Cut the paper to desired size - - If you are making a particular size notebook, cut the paper into the proper size; in our case, we use letter-size paper to make half-letter paper \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-notebook-with-sugar-cane-paper-and-pp/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-notebook-with-sugar-cane-paper-and-pp/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index 1ad710594..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-notebook-with-sugar-cane-paper-and-pp/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Fix everything for assembly - - Prepare the covers and sheets for assembly; if you want a printed sheet, this is the best time to do it. - -Since we do not have the equipment to ring the notebooks, we use a third party for the process. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-notebook-with-sugar-cane-paper-and-pp/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-notebook-with-sugar-cane-paper-and-pp/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8893499da..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-notebook-with-sugar-cane-paper-and-pp/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### And last but not least... - - Remember to stamp your products so everybody knows what they are made from and we can keep recycling. - -Now enjoy your brand new Precious Plastic notebook!! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-notebook-with-sugar-cane-paper/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-notebook-with-sugar-cane-paper/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index e49c3a12a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-notebook-with-sugar-cane-paper/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Create a notebook with sugar cane paper - - -Srurt \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-notebook-with-sugar-cane-paper/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-notebook-with-sugar-cane-paper/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 0a82de373..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-notebook-with-sugar-cane-paper/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Strhyr - - Srthrthrth \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-peg-board/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-peg-board/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index a97bb04eb..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-peg-board/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Create a Peg Board - - -This method uses a heat press machine and an aluminum mold to make plastic board, which is then formed into perforated board. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-peg-board/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-peg-board/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 18d43952c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-peg-board/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Prepare heat press machine and aluminum frame - - Heat press machine...commercially available heat press machine for iron-on printing. The one I am using has a 350x350(mm) heat surface. -Aluminum frame...I found a supplier online that sells and processes aluminum sheet metal and placed an order. 230x300x4(mm) rectangular frame with 5mm radius on the corners. This aluminum frame is sandwiched between two aluminum sheets (2 mm) and pressed. - -Steps 1 and 2 are based on "Zero Plastic Australia's Sheet Machine" by Zero Plastic Australia. Please refer to this one too! - -https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/zero-plastic-australias-sheet-machine diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-peg-board/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-peg-board/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 5dcae305e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-peg-board/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Create a plastic sheet - - Aluminum sheet - Teflon sheet - Milled plastic & aluminum frame - Teflon sheet - Aluminum sheet -The materials are set in the heat press machine in a sandwich condition like the above. At this time, it is recommended to spray the aluminum frame thoroughly with silicone spray. For this aluminum frame, roughly 350-400g of milled plastic is required. - -After setting the materials and closing the heat press, heat the machine at 180°C for 30-40 minutes. During this time, keep increasing the pressure of the heat press to the maximum. Apply heat and pressure evenly, rotating and flipping the whole aluminum sandwich sheet during the process. - -Then turn off the press and allow the plastic to cool and harden in place while keeping the pressure applied. After at least four hours, and ideally overnight, the plastic should be nice and flat. - -Once the plastic has cooled and hardened, peel it off from the frame, cut off the unnecessary parts with scissors, and your plastic sheet is ready! diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-peg-board/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-peg-board/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 04a25cf00..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-peg-board/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Drill Holes - - Prepare a peg board for guides. I used "Design Board 30cm x 20cm (natural x white): 110 yen" from Daiso. The size of the holes is 5 mm and the hole spacing is 25 mm. - -Stack the peg board on the plastic board and fix it with clamps to prevent it from moving. Aim at the center of the perforated board and drill guide holes 2 mm in diameter. - -After the guide holes are drilled, remove the perforated board and fix only the plastic board to the workbench. Replace the drill with one of 5 mm diameter and drill the actual holes as per the guide holes. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-peg-board/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-peg-board/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index dc2df47bd..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-peg-board/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Finish with Sanding - - After all holes are drilled, remove the remaining plastic debris around the holes. If there are too many burrs on the surface, use an orbit sander to finish the surface. If you apply up to about #2000, the color of the plastic will be bright. - -And voila! The plastic pegboard is now complete! - -If you have any question regarding this How-to, please contact pebbles.recycleplastic@​gmail.com ;-) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-perforated-board/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-perforated-board/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index a45d5c08e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-perforated-board/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Create a Perforated Board - - -This method uses a heat press machine and an aluminum mold to make plastic board, which is then formed into perforated board. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-perforated-board/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-perforated-board/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 18d43952c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-perforated-board/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Prepare heat press machine and aluminum frame - - Heat press machine...commercially available heat press machine for iron-on printing. The one I am using has a 350x350(mm) heat surface. -Aluminum frame...I found a supplier online that sells and processes aluminum sheet metal and placed an order. 230x300x4(mm) rectangular frame with 5mm radius on the corners. This aluminum frame is sandwiched between two aluminum sheets (2 mm) and pressed. - -Steps 1 and 2 are based on "Zero Plastic Australia's Sheet Machine" by Zero Plastic Australia. Please refer to this one too! - -https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/zero-plastic-australias-sheet-machine diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-perforated-board/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-perforated-board/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 5dcae305e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-perforated-board/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Create a plastic sheet - - Aluminum sheet - Teflon sheet - Milled plastic & aluminum frame - Teflon sheet - Aluminum sheet -The materials are set in the heat press machine in a sandwich condition like the above. At this time, it is recommended to spray the aluminum frame thoroughly with silicone spray. For this aluminum frame, roughly 350-400g of milled plastic is required. - -After setting the materials and closing the heat press, heat the machine at 180°C for 30-40 minutes. During this time, keep increasing the pressure of the heat press to the maximum. Apply heat and pressure evenly, rotating and flipping the whole aluminum sandwich sheet during the process. - -Then turn off the press and allow the plastic to cool and harden in place while keeping the pressure applied. After at least four hours, and ideally overnight, the plastic should be nice and flat. - -Once the plastic has cooled and hardened, peel it off from the frame, cut off the unnecessary parts with scissors, and your plastic sheet is ready! diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-perforated-board/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-perforated-board/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 04a25cf00..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-perforated-board/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Drill Holes - - Prepare a peg board for guides. I used "Design Board 30cm x 20cm (natural x white): 110 yen" from Daiso. The size of the holes is 5 mm and the hole spacing is 25 mm. - -Stack the peg board on the plastic board and fix it with clamps to prevent it from moving. Aim at the center of the perforated board and drill guide holes 2 mm in diameter. - -After the guide holes are drilled, remove the perforated board and fix only the plastic board to the workbench. Replace the drill with one of 5 mm diameter and drill the actual holes as per the guide holes. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-perforated-board/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-perforated-board/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index dc2df47bd..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-perforated-board/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Finish with Sanding - - After all holes are drilled, remove the remaining plastic debris around the holes. If there are too many burrs on the surface, use an orbit sander to finish the surface. If you apply up to about #2000, the color of the plastic will be bright. - -And voila! The plastic pegboard is now complete! - -If you have any question regarding this How-to, please contact pebbles.recycleplastic@​gmail.com ;-) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-profile/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-profile/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index cbb1d2390..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-profile/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Create a profile - - -This is how you create a profile on this platform. It's pretty straightforward. As being one if the first users here we want to give you some guidance :) - -With the current status of development, we recommend doing this on a computer, not on a phone. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-profile/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-profile/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 6901cc704..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-profile/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Create an account. - - Go to the right top and join the platform. Pick the username of your workspace. -And verify your mail. If you don't receive an email, try out without it, it might work anyway. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-profile/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-profile/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index bbbabdf2a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-profile/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Change your settings - - Go to the top right corner to find your settings. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-profile/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-profile/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 31f8f83c4..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-profile/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Choose your focus - - Choose your focus. Most likely you are a workspace or machine shop (since all the other ones are new for the platform). It might be hard to choose. Here you can find some more information on how to choose. - -Info: Currently it’s not possible to select multiple focus activities - if you are active in more areas (collection + shredding), create one account for each. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-profile/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-profile/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 1392300a6..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-profile/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Define what kind of workspace - - For the launch of V4 we are going to have more focussed workspaces. Here you can choose what you are. If you are not sure or use multiple machines, you are probably a mixed. - -Info: You will always be able to change this choice in the future, in case you change your focus. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-profile/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-profile/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 810de546f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-profile/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Fill in your information - - This is the information which will be shown on your profile. - -Add a photo: of your machines, workspace or products. Please don't only use your logo, it's much more useful and more fun to see your machines. - -And write a little text about your project: Write about which machines you're running and which activities you're doing. The more complete you make this, the better! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-profile/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-profile/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 6a40602ed..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-profile/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Your map pin - - This is the part where you add your pin to the map. -We will use your image from the step above. You only need to add a short text to give other people a quick understanding of what you’re doing. - -Info: Currently there is still a bug in the map that doesn't show your exact location but 2 blocks away (working on it!) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-profile/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-profile/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index 5d7c1724d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-profile/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Publish and give feedback - - Have a look. Edit your profile if you want to make it look better. -If you had any difficulties with this process, send us your feedback (bottom right corner), so we can try to improve it :) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-shut-off-for-the-beam-mould/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-shut-off-for-the-beam-mould/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index e77632a5d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-shut-off-for-the-beam-mould/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Create a shut off for the beam mould - - -Making a shut off for the beam mould to prevent plastic flowing out after disconnecting from the extrusion machine. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-shut-off-for-the-beam-mould/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-shut-off-for-the-beam-mould/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9f8667847..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-shut-off-for-the-beam-mould/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### The problem of plastic flowing out of the mould - - When working with the extrusion machine and fine tuning the process we wanted to address the outflow of plastic when the mould has filled and you unscrew it from the nozzle of the extrusion machine. We have a cooling gutter close by so the mould goes within a second or 2 in the water. Still the overpressure in the mould makes the molten plastic flow out quickly. -Its extra waste and it takes time and effort to remove it. We came up with this: \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-shut-off-for-the-beam-mould/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-shut-off-for-the-beam-mould/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index e08f51483..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-shut-off-for-the-beam-mould/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Make a third plate - - To be able to close of the beam mould from the extrusion machine while still connected to it, make use of an extra steel plate. This plate has the same dimensions and hole pattern as the 2 other plates. -Depending of your hole pattern, think of the best way to create a strip that, if cut out, can slide over the injection hole. We made an arrow shape to create a fixed stopping point. - - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-shut-off-for-the-beam-mould/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-shut-off-for-the-beam-mould/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 965bc65f3..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-shut-off-for-the-beam-mould/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Make a smart hole pattern - - After you cut out the slide strip you can attach the 2 symmetrical parts to your nozzle plate and tag weld them to it (see pic 1). Give the arrow slide a center hole thats inline with the nozzle plate hole. This is your reference point. For us it worked best to go 4cm each way of the center point to create two holes. One 4mm close to the arrow head and the other 20mm on the other side. When the arrow slide is in its open position the 20mm and the nozzle hole are inline (See pic 3). In this position you can drill the 4mm hole all the way trough the nozzle plate. Use any kind of pin to secure the arrow slide in place so the big holes are aligned. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-shut-off-for-the-beam-mould/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-shut-off-for-the-beam-mould/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 983991b4a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-shut-off-for-the-beam-mould/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Ready to rumble! - - Now its time to put everything together. One extra 4mm hole needs to be drilled trough your beam mould plate. This way the security pin goes trough all 3 plates when in the open position. Time to start extruding! We have the end of the mould welded shut with only a 5mm pressure releave hole. This is also the indicator when the mould has filled. We let the extruder run a little bit after that to put some pressure on the beam. After stopping the extrusion machine, pull the pin and tap the arrow slide shut with a hammer. Now you can unscrew the mould relaxed and gently let in cool in whatever way work best for you. -After cooling down, remove the nozzle plate. The beam should slide out or its needs a few taps at the back! -Minimal waste and ready fast for the next beam. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-sign-with-a-detailed-graphic/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-sign-with-a-detailed-graphic/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 58821c2d4..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-sign-with-a-detailed-graphic/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Create a sign with a detailed graphic - - -How to design and create a sign using injection molds. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-sign-with-a-detailed-graphic/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-sign-with-a-detailed-graphic/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 0b6e9754a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-sign-with-a-detailed-graphic/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Creating the oultine box and the design - - I am making a recycling sign, but the design can be substituted for anything. I made my outline using adobe illustrator. The first cut has to be the base of the sign, so make this how big you want the sign to be. The second cut will be the graphic that the sign will have. Some important notes for the graphic are that the final thing has to be reversed, and if you are going to include text, make sure it is a stencil font, or some letters may not come out properly. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-sign-with-a-detailed-graphic/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-sign-with-a-detailed-graphic/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index e31faa8d8..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-sign-with-a-detailed-graphic/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Stacking the mold - - When you cut the two pieces out, it does not matter what order you stack them in. Inject the plastic and you now have a plastic sign. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-sports-medal-with-clear-acrilic-inlay/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-sports-medal-with-clear-acrilic-inlay/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 073e9cfe5..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-sports-medal-with-clear-acrilic-inlay/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Create a Sports Medal with Clear Acrilic Inlay - - -Create stylish injection molded medals with engraved acrylic inlays. In our case we used PP for the plastic and 3mm clear acrylic off-cuts. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-sports-medal-with-clear-acrilic-inlay/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-sports-medal-with-clear-acrilic-inlay/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4c0295696..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-sports-medal-with-clear-acrilic-inlay/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Create mold designs using 2D CAD program - - We used Adobe Illustrator. Create a design for the acrylic inlay, one for the logo outline, and one for the pocket into which we will place the acrylic inlay. Make sure to include a small extension indicator (see photo) to your pocket and acrilic inlay to help the correct orientation of the logo within the mold \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-sports-medal-with-clear-acrilic-inlay/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-sports-medal-with-clear-acrilic-inlay/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 95d2303c2..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-sports-medal-with-clear-acrilic-inlay/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Stack the molds in the correct order. - - Place the engraved acrilic logo inlay into the pocket mold then place the medal outline mold on top. Put this stack between the top and bottom steel molds which connect to injection machine. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-sports-medal-with-clear-acrilic-inlay/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-sports-medal-with-clear-acrilic-inlay/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index da21a2831..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-a-sports-medal-with-clear-acrilic-inlay/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Inject, attach ring and ribbon - - Inject the plactic into the mold. In our case we used gray pp flakes for the silver medal. Remove the injected product. Drill a hole, attach a ring and a ribbon of choice. Done! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-an-extruded-lamp/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-an-extruded-lamp/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 24ab2c20d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-an-extruded-lamp/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Create an extruded lamp - - -We'll show you how to make a lamp using the extrusion machine and a very simple mould. -Simple, beautiful, functional. - -Workspace: KOUN, Morocco diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-an-extruded-lamp/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-an-extruded-lamp/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index c7ff9b1d5..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-an-extruded-lamp/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,13 +0,0 @@ -### Prepare your materials - - For the mould we need: -- two cylindrical wooden elements (size as you prefer) -- threads and bolts (amount depends on the size of your lamp) -- paper sheets: one corrugated and one softer type - -For the lampshade: -- shredded plastic, HDPE recommended - -To finish the lamp: -- another wooden circle as support -- bulb socket and cable \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-an-extruded-lamp/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-an-extruded-lamp/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index dca9d6e4d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-an-extruded-lamp/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Assemble the mould - - Once you’ve got all the components, it’s time to assemble the mould. Pick the length you prefer for your lamp. Connect the 2 wooden circles with each other using the 6 rods, and tighten all together. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-an-extruded-lamp/step_10.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-an-extruded-lamp/step_10.md deleted file mode 100644 index 5b2a493a9..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-an-extruded-lamp/step_10.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Connect it all - - Time to connect it all together. Get the cable connector with the lamp and close it together. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-an-extruded-lamp/step_11.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-an-extruded-lamp/step_11.md deleted file mode 100644 index d3db2e35e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-an-extruded-lamp/step_11.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Finished! - - And we're done :) -Lamp is ready to be sold or make your living room shine from recycled plastic! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-an-extruded-lamp/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-an-extruded-lamp/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 723b3d636..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-an-extruded-lamp/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Wrap the mould in paper - - We need to create a smoother skin on the mould for the plastic to lay on. We use one corrugated sheet of paper to give the structural strength for the plastic not to collapse. On top of this first layer, we lay a second paper layer which is smoother to give a clean finishing to the product. Again, size depends on your product but generally it should cover the area between the two round elements. We use paper because plastic does not stick to it. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-an-extruded-lamp/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-an-extruded-lamp/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4cce56dd4..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-an-extruded-lamp/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Mark the mould 
 - - To help you being consistent with size over time, mark the highest point where you want the extruded plastic to reach. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-an-extruded-lamp/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-an-extruded-lamp/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 3bfa00536..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-an-extruded-lamp/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Extrusion time - Make the base - - Get your recycled plastic ready and load it into the extrusion machine. - -Wait for the plastic filament to come out and start overlaying multiple plastic strings. First we build a solid base for the lamp: We overlap 9 lines of plastic. Make sure each line melts into the previous one so they stick well onto each other. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-an-extruded-lamp/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-an-extruded-lamp/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 62cadeeb1..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-an-extruded-lamp/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Extrusion time - Make the pattern - - Once the base is nicely laid out we start creating the actual lamp’s pattern by moving the mould up and down like in the pictures below. You can get creative with the patterns created but generally you will want to create enough of a structure for the lamp to support itself. - -When you’re happy with the pattern you can cut the end of the extrusion line and glue it nicely to the rest of the product. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-an-extruded-lamp/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-an-extruded-lamp/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index 920d648c4..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-an-extruded-lamp/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Wait and cool - - Once we’re done with extruding, we let it cool down. Make sure it is well cold before removing it from the mould, otherwise the plastic will shrink unpredictably and ruin your final product. -We cool it by simply letting it rest for 20-30 mins. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-an-extruded-lamp/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-an-extruded-lamp/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4d2804f24..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-an-extruded-lamp/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Remove the mould - - The lamp is designed to have one of the circles as the base of the lamp. So, when disassembling the mould, only remove the top circular wooden element and the metal rods and bolts. - -We can now remove the paper from inside of the lamp. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-an-extruded-lamp/step_8.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-an-extruded-lamp/step_8.md deleted file mode 100644 index 86f41cdba..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-an-extruded-lamp/step_8.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Ready, almost - - Now we’re left with the core of the lamp made of the wooden base plus the beautiful plastic patterns. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-an-extruded-lamp/step_9.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-an-extruded-lamp/step_9.md deleted file mode 100644 index 3a6590c54..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-an-extruded-lamp/step_9.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Electronic support - - Let's make the lamp functional! -First, we make another wooden circle to support the cables and electronics. Drill two guides in the wood to allow the cables to stay in the right place. - -Then get the cables through the holes and connect the socket to the wooden support. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-bottle-top-earrings/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-bottle-top-earrings/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index ce80d751b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-bottle-top-earrings/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Create bottle top earrings - - -An easy technique to transform bottle tops into cool colourful earrings. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-bottle-top-earrings/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-bottle-top-earrings/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 45a270c33..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-bottle-top-earrings/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,17 +0,0 @@ -### Prepare your materials - - First off, you will need to source your plastic! You can find plastic bottles pretty much anywhere, and all you need are the lids. If you can get a pair of the same, so that you can make a nice matching set. You will also need some shredded plastic of the same material (generally HDPE, or PP) in a complementary colour to the bottle tops. - -Materials needed (for one pair of earrings) -- 2 bottle tops -- some shredded plastic of the same material -- 2 earring hooks or rings (depending on your preference) - -Required tools: -- 2 smooth tiles for melting the plastic -- oven -- drill (or another tool for making a hole in the material) - -Safety recommendations: -- heat resistant gloves -- respirator mask \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-bottle-top-earrings/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-bottle-top-earrings/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 96a7c47b9..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-bottle-top-earrings/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Get ready for melting - - Set your oven to preheat at 170°C. -Whilst it’s warming up, set down one of your tiles and lay out the bottle tops with even and sufficient spacing to allow for the caps to melt without fusing to one another. With your coloured shreds, put a little sprinkling of plastic into each bottle top. This will create a nice aesthetic to the finish! You will not need to add much, as the pressed material should be relatively thin. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-bottle-top-earrings/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-bottle-top-earrings/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 42c7dea2d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-bottle-top-earrings/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Transfer tiles to the oven - - Once the oven is preheated, it’s time to put your tiles in and watch the plastic melt! Both tiles will need to be heated, one with the bottle tops prepared (as in the previous step) and the other should be heated for pressing. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-bottle-top-earrings/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-bottle-top-earrings/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 5bbe83e0d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-bottle-top-earrings/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Check on the melting progress - - Now your tops and tiles are heating in the oven, there is a little time to wait. With our oven we leave the tops for 30 minutes. During this time, you could already prepare another batch of earrings (see step 2). After 10 minutes, check on the melting progress of your bottle tops. - -Some oven strengths vary, so you might need have to adjust the melting temperature or time for the best result. Below, you can see how the bottle tops looked after 10 minutes, and then how the looked when ready for pressing, after 30 minutes in the oven. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-bottle-top-earrings/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-bottle-top-earrings/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2a0d73f7c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-bottle-top-earrings/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Press your earrings - - After the bottle tops are sufficiently melted, put on your respirator mask, and heat resistant gloves. Remove the two tiles from the oven one by one. First, lay down the tile with your melted material on a flat and heat resistant surface, then immediately place the second tile on top of it, with the smooth side facing down. - -For pressing, you will need to give a little pressure to the tiles. But not too much, otherwise the material will become too thin, and the bottle tops may spread and fuse together. Be mindful of this and press carefully. - -The plastic will need some time to cool, for this you should leave the two tiles as they are, one on top of the other. If you prepared another batch, now is the time to put it into the oven (step 3). If not, you have a few minutes to make yourself a cup of tea :) diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-bottle-top-earrings/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-bottle-top-earrings/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 564a372a4..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-bottle-top-earrings/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Finish the plastic - - Once the tiles have cooled (around 10 minutes) you can separate them and reveal your freshly pressed plastic discs. With practice, they should come out nearly perfectly round, but if some don't have the desired shape, now is the time to finish them. This can be done by sanding or cutting to achieve the desired outcome. Alternatively, you can select the best and save the rest for re-shredding. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-bottle-top-earrings/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-bottle-top-earrings/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index d564420ba..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-bottle-top-earrings/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Finish the earrings - - Now the discs are at the desired shape and size, all that’s left to do is to drill a hole and attach your earring hook or hoop. We used a drill press for this process, but you can use regular drill, or another tool to form a small hole in the plastic. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-bottle-top-earrings/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-bottle-top-earrings/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8f7b07516..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-bottle-top-earrings/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Finished! - - Once the earring element is attached, these beauties are ready to wear! Simply put them on, and enjoy. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-checkers-pieces-with-recycled-plastic/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-checkers-pieces-with-recycled-plastic/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 951263913..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-checkers-pieces-with-recycled-plastic/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Create Checkers Pieces With Recycled Plastic - - -Create stylish injection molded checker pieces with engraved designs of your choice. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-checkers-pieces-with-recycled-plastic/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-checkers-pieces-with-recycled-plastic/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 982f75211..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-checkers-pieces-with-recycled-plastic/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Create mold designs using 2D CAD program - - We used Adobe Illustrator. You can either create your own design or use any design that you find that could be used as the design in the checkers piece. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-checkers-pieces-with-recycled-plastic/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-checkers-pieces-with-recycled-plastic/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8c0d69df5..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-checkers-pieces-with-recycled-plastic/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Stack the molds in the correct order. - - Place the engraved pieces and lay them into the pocket mold then place the medal outline mold on top. Put this stack between the top and bottom steel molds which connect to the injection machine. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-checkers-pieces-with-recycled-plastic/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-checkers-pieces-with-recycled-plastic/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index fe1ddb9d8..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-checkers-pieces-with-recycled-plastic/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Inject/Color - - Inject the colors, -Inject the plastic into the mold. I used black and white as the colors of my pieces. Place onto your chess/checkers board. -Done! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-marble-from-plastic-bags/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-marble-from-plastic-bags/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index be90180bb..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-marble-from-plastic-bags/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Create marble from plastic bags - - -Sonja will show you a simple technique to make blocks that look like marble made from recycled bags. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-marble-from-plastic-bags/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-marble-from-plastic-bags/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 635bf24ca..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-marble-from-plastic-bags/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,17 +0,0 @@ -### Gather everything you need - - Before you start get all your gear ready: -- Respirator mask -- Gloves -- Scalpello -- Lots of plastic PE bags from shopping or supermarkets -- Respirator mask -- Shredder machine or scissors -- Basic mould -- Scrap metal bowl -- Compression machine -- Sanding machine -- Planner (if available) -- Plastic Type Stamp - - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-marble-from-plastic-bags/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-marble-from-plastic-bags/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 0749b9ead..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-marble-from-plastic-bags/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Watch this video tutorial - - Watch this video tutorial to learn step-by-step how to make the plastic dough, transform it into a block and eventually polish it nicely. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-marble-from-plastic-bags/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-marble-from-plastic-bags/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index ed0643f61..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-marble-from-plastic-bags/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Done & Share - - After watching this video you should understand the basics of this low-tech technique You can reproduce the blocks or try to make other products. We’re looking forward to seeing what you can come up with. Make sure to share back your new creations so the community can learn from you. Tag #preciousplastic on social media, create a new how-to or send us an email. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-precious-jewellery-from-shredded-cd-cases/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-precious-jewellery-from-shredded-cd-cases/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 1149fee77..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-precious-jewellery-from-shredded-cd-cases/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Create precious jewellery from shredded CD cases - - -Marta will show you a simple technique to turn old cd cases into precious jewellery. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-precious-jewellery-from-shredded-cd-cases/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-precious-jewellery-from-shredded-cd-cases/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index f04239052..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-precious-jewellery-from-shredded-cd-cases/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11 +0,0 @@ -### Gather everything you need - - Before you start get all your gear ready: --Respirator mask --Lots of cd cases (PS) --Basic square mould --Sanding paper --Drill --Compression machine --Dremmel --Plastic Type Stamp \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-precious-jewellery-from-shredded-cd-cases/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-precious-jewellery-from-shredded-cd-cases/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index e83be7d6d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-precious-jewellery-from-shredded-cd-cases/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Watch this video tutorial - - Watch this video tutorial to learn step-by-step how to inject the jewels and polish them. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-precious-jewellery-from-shredded-cd-cases/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-precious-jewellery-from-shredded-cd-cases/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index ac035dd78..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-precious-jewellery-from-shredded-cd-cases/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Done & Share - - After watching this video you should understand the basics of this technique. You can reproduce the rings or try to make other precious products. We’re looking forward to seeing what you can come up with. Make sure to share back your new creations so the community can learn from you. Tag #preciousplastic on social media, create a new how-to or send us an email. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-shredder-machine-in-the-farm/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-shredder-machine-in-the-farm/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7a7e6b5a9..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-shredder-machine-in-the-farm/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Create Shredder Machine in the Farm - - -Create a little shredder machine in a little farm in the city. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-shredder-machine-in-the-farm/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-shredder-machine-in-the-farm/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 04a3d975b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-shredder-machine-in-the-farm/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,16 +0,0 @@ -### Download - - First off, click on the Download button above to check out all the files for this machine! -In this folder you will find: - -- 3D CAD (.step and .f3d) - -- Laser cut files (.dxf) - -- Blueprints (.pdf) - -- Schematics - -- BOM - -And every details that you need for create you machine. So come on, downlad the file. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-shredder-machine-in-the-farm/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-shredder-machine-in-the-farm/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index e21389c78..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-shredder-machine-in-the-farm/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,13 +0,0 @@ -### Build a Shredder Machine - - There are a few required skills and machinery you'll need to have if you’re building this machine. -- General metalworking (cutting, drilling) -- Welding -- Soldering, -- Turning (machining on a lathe) -- Laser cutting -- General electrical work (wiring safety switch, temperature controllers…) -- Motor electrical work (wiring motor, contactor, overload protection…) -- Programming (VFD if you use one) -- Advanced assembly work (require specific tools, measurement instruments and tolerances knowledge to align and assemble) -- Painting \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-shredder-machine-in-the-farm/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-shredder-machine-in-the-farm/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index c9b7c4745..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-shredder-machine-in-the-farm/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Take a box - - - Download the file for create shredder box -- Follow every single steps for create the box -- Get help from a blacksmith -- Be patient -- assemble every sigle pieces of shredder box \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-shredder-machine-in-the-farm/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-shredder-machine-in-the-farm/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index ef92d900c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-shredder-machine-in-the-farm/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Give the soul - - - now you cane buy electric motor -- use the bazar of Precious Plastic -- connect the wires with the switch -- connect the motor with the box -- and now push the on botton -- now the soul is alive! very welllll!!! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-shredder-machine-in-the-farm/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-shredder-machine-in-the-farm/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 25823e245..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-shredder-machine-in-the-farm/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Create the frame - - - now you need a frame -- you can reuse recyclable material like iron -- you can create the base for the shredder machine -- the piano for put on the shredder machine -- you cane create the funnel to put the plastic to shred -- it is important to be able to weld every piece well \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/create-shredder-machine-in-the-farm/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/create-shredder-machine-in-the-farm/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index b072bebee..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/create-shredder-machine-in-the-farm/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### We are ready to go - - - now you can assembled every pieces -- you can color every pieces like you want -- and now you can clik on -- please be carefull -- always clean the machine -- use protection \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/creating-beams-out-of-hdpe-plastic-bags/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/creating-beams-out-of-hdpe-plastic-bags/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index efa64f326..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/creating-beams-out-of-hdpe-plastic-bags/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Creating Beams out of HDPE plastic bags - - -In this guide, I will walk you through the steps to make HDPE plastic bags into beams. This process is also done without fancy machinery such as a shredder or injection machine. If you have access to a long clamp I recommend following the steps at the bottom to make a better beam. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/creating-beams-out-of-hdpe-plastic-bags/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/creating-beams-out-of-hdpe-plastic-bags/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 991f0f290..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/creating-beams-out-of-hdpe-plastic-bags/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,25 +0,0 @@ -### Making bags into denser plastic for melting. - - In this step, I will walk you through the steps to prepare your plastic bags. - -Materials Needed: -• Textile Iron or panini press -• Wax Paper -• HDPE Plastic Bags -• Preferably a carbon activator gas mask. -Steps: - -Step 1: Take a single bag and fold it in half long ways. - -Step 2: Role the bag as best you can so it’s thin enough to fit into the beam later on. -Note: The bag will shrink considerably, so don’t spend too much time folding it. - -Step 3: Put wax paper under and above the folded bag. - -Step 4: Do 2-3 quick passes with the iron while applying minimal pressure. This should be less than 10 seconds for each side. If you uses a panini press just press down. - -Step 5: Flip and repeat - -Step 6: Let your semi-firm plastic bag cool under a heavy object so it’s unable to curl up, this will make it easier to push into the mold later. - -Note: A single standard-size bag fills about 0.4 inches in a 1-inch by 1-inch beam so ensure you have a considerable amount of bags processed before the next step. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/creating-beams-out-of-hdpe-plastic-bags/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/creating-beams-out-of-hdpe-plastic-bags/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 0c6d4bc9e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/creating-beams-out-of-hdpe-plastic-bags/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,18 +0,0 @@ -### Creating your mold/beam. - - Your beam/mold will need a quick-release mechanism so you can remove it before your plastic cools overtop preventing access to the bottom. In this step, I will show the steps needed to accomplish this. - -Materials needed. -• Metal grinder -• Preferably a hot rolled steel beam. -• A small metal scrape to be used as a slider and bottom of your mold. -• Eye protection -Steps: - -Step 1: Measure 1/16th of an inch on one side of the beam and draw a marking for your cut. If your beam is aluminum or extremely thin you may want to consider increasing this distance but beware further in you go harder it will be to remove your plastic beam. - -Step 2: Flip the beam around and repeat step 1. - -Step 3: Use the metal grinder to cut the slots on both sides so that the scrap metal can slide through. Ensure your cuts align with each other, if not your slider may not fit. - -Step 4: Choose a scrap metal piece that can be cut to size and fit accordingly to leave a limited number of gaps and provide a tight fit. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/creating-beams-out-of-hdpe-plastic-bags/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/creating-beams-out-of-hdpe-plastic-bags/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 82fb0add8..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/creating-beams-out-of-hdpe-plastic-bags/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,13 +0,0 @@ -### Melting plastic into a Beam using a clamp. Part 1 - - This method is considerably easier than the manual method and will give you a much denser beam. I highly suggest this method if you have a 5+ foot clamp. - -Materials Needed: -• Outdoor fire pit or an alternate heat source that can reach constant temperatures above 250 Celsius. -• Carbon activator gas mask -• Mold – Out of my three mold attempts the hot rolled steel tube worked the best. Local hardware stores carry these for about 25 USD. -• Heat resistance gloves -• Pushing stick – Some sort of solid wood or metal with the same inner dimensions as your beam. -• Fire-making materials, lighter wood, etc. -• Pliers -• +-5 foot metal clamp \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/creating-beams-out-of-hdpe-plastic-bags/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/creating-beams-out-of-hdpe-plastic-bags/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index c26f5a974..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/creating-beams-out-of-hdpe-plastic-bags/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Melting plastic into a Beam using a clamp. Part 2 - - Steps -Step 1: Insert metal peace at the bottom of the mold and ensure it's secure but removable with pliers. This is your quick-release mechanism to open the bottom up for removal later. - -Step 2: Load a few plastic bags into the mold and compress them with the push stick before starting a fire, I recommend adding more bags using the clamp technique than the manual technique because of the difficulty of adding bags later. - -Step 3: Create a fire that can consistently burn; have wood near to stock the fire for at least 30 minutes if problems arise. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/creating-beams-out-of-hdpe-plastic-bags/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/creating-beams-out-of-hdpe-plastic-bags/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 473702d16..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/creating-beams-out-of-hdpe-plastic-bags/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11 +0,0 @@ -### Melting plastic into a Beam using a clamp. Part 3 - - Step 4: Hold the beam over the fire without the push stick in and wait for it to heat up. - -Step 5: After you have given the plastic enough time to heat up push in the push stick and secure it in the clamp. - -Step 6: Tighten the clamp to compress the beam. This process will have to be repeated multiple times to make your beam solid. - -Note: You may have reset your clamp depending on the type your using todo so slide the stationary side closer to give more compression length. - -Note: If needed your able to add more plastic bags after the first compression and continue doing so to get your desired length. I don't recommend any length over 10 inches because it will get increasing more difficult to remove. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/creating-beams-out-of-hdpe-plastic-bags/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/creating-beams-out-of-hdpe-plastic-bags/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 27d83693c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/creating-beams-out-of-hdpe-plastic-bags/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,12 +0,0 @@ -### Removing the beam with the clamp technique - - With this method, you should be able to remove the beam directly after formation and before it cools, either with force or by using the clamp without the stopper at the bottom. - -Step 1: Remove the stopper from the bottom with a pair of pliers. - -Step 2: Try and remove the beam by pressing the push stick in while applying consistent force. -Note: If this works congratulations you are done! If not, no worries continue reading. - -Step 3: Put your beam back into the rig just like before but without the stopper at the bottom. - -Step 4: Tighten your clamp in while the plastic is still hot, once it starts to move you can take the mold out of the beam and finish the process with the push stick. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/creating-beams-out-of-hdpe-plastic-bags/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/creating-beams-out-of-hdpe-plastic-bags/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index ed3bd4733..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/creating-beams-out-of-hdpe-plastic-bags/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,12 +0,0 @@ -### Melting the prepared plastic into a beam. Part 1 - - Now that you have built your mold and prepared your plastic bags we can start melting your bags into beams! The manual method will have much more air pockets than using the newly invented clamping technique, so if you have access to a 5+ foot metal clamp I encourage you to try the process above. - -Materials Needed: -• Outdoor fire pit or an alternate heat source that can reach constant temperatures above 250 Celsius. -• Carbon activator gas mask -• Mold – Out of my three mold attempts the hot rolled steel tube worked the best. Local hardware stores carry these for about 25 USD. -• Heat resistance gloves -• Pushing stick – Some sort of solid wood or metal with the same inner dimensions as your beam. -• Fire-making materials, lighter wood, etc. -• Pliers \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/creating-beams-out-of-hdpe-plastic-bags/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/creating-beams-out-of-hdpe-plastic-bags/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index 24bf5c782..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/creating-beams-out-of-hdpe-plastic-bags/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Melting the prepared plastic into a beam. Part 2 - - Step 1: Insert metal piece at the bottom of the mold and ensure it's secure, but removable with pliers. This is your quick-release mechanism to open the bottom for removal later. - -Step 2: Load a few plastic bags into the mold and compress with the push stick before starting a fire. -Note: Be careful not to fill the entire mold up, or more than eight bags at once. You will need to hand compress these as best you can to ensure your final product is solid. - -Step 3: Create a fire that can consistently burn; have wood near to stock the fire for at least 30 minutes in case problems arise. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/creating-beams-out-of-hdpe-plastic-bags/step_8.md b/resources/howtos-oa/creating-beams-out-of-hdpe-plastic-bags/step_8.md deleted file mode 100644 index 0afb3ddeb..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/creating-beams-out-of-hdpe-plastic-bags/step_8.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Melting the prepared plastic into a beam. Part 3 - - Step 4: Hold mold over the fire and rotate, have your push stick ready to compress in a few moments. If the fire is well built it will only take about 30 seconds to become a malleable substance. - -Step 5: Compress the plastic using the push stick. Be sure to apply as much pressure as possible; the more force you can exert the better; this will determine the density of your product. - -Step 6: Slowly add extra plastic strips while compressing the beam using the push stick between each one until you’re satisfied with the length. -Note: I recommend adding about an inch extra to compensate for thermal expansion and the removal process. - -Step 7: Once the beam is properly compressed use pliers to remove the slider acting as a stop at the bottom and attempt to remove it with the push stick. If the beam is stuck I suggest letting it cool in the mold and later heating the beam up just enough to loosen it. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/creating-beams-out-of-hdpe-plastic-bags/step_9.md b/resources/howtos-oa/creating-beams-out-of-hdpe-plastic-bags/step_9.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7b0d89403..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/creating-beams-out-of-hdpe-plastic-bags/step_9.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,12 +0,0 @@ -### Removing the beam with the clamp technique - - With this method, you should be able to remove the beam directly after formation before it cools either with force or by using the clamp without the stopper at the bottom. - -Step 1: Remove the stopper from the bottom with a pair of pliers. - -Step 2: Try and remove the beam by pressing the push stick in while applying consistent force. -Note: If this works congratulations you are done! If not, no worries continue reading. - -Step 3: Put your beam back into the rig just like before but without the stopper at the bottom. - -Step 4: Tighten your clamp in while the plastic is still hot, once it starts to move you can take the mold out of the beam and finish the process by hand. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/creation-of-hdep-sheet-with-just-one-plate/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/creation-of-hdep-sheet-with-just-one-plate/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index ebbb2166a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/creation-of-hdep-sheet-with-just-one-plate/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Creation of HDEP sheet with just one plate - - -Making a hdep sheet can become more complicated as the project progresses, due to the unforeseen events that can occur when handling the plastic in one way or another, but ingenuity helps to find solutions to these dilemmas, reaching a good level of development, even if it is a university project. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/creation-of-hdep-sheet-with-just-one-plate/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/creation-of-hdep-sheet-with-just-one-plate/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 35d52b634..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/creation-of-hdep-sheet-with-just-one-plate/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Collecting the plastic - - Gathering supplies is easy as we are surrounded by this material. All kinds of containers, lids, toys, etc... are made of hdep. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/creation-of-hdep-sheet-with-just-one-plate/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/creation-of-hdep-sheet-with-just-one-plate/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index d8aecf72e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/creation-of-hdep-sheet-with-just-one-plate/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Cut the plastic into smaller pieces. - - To be able to melt the plastic it is advisable to first convert it into small pieces of plastic, for this if it is done at home you can use a blender, but if the pieces fly into the blender beaker, you can achieve a good result with a scissors and a lot of force. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/creation-of-hdep-sheet-with-just-one-plate/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/creation-of-hdep-sheet-with-just-one-plate/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 39bc5d2f1..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/creation-of-hdep-sheet-with-just-one-plate/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Melt the plastic - - To melt the hdpe you need a temperature higher than 135 degrees Celsius, which is possible to achieve with a hot plate, hair iron, or clothes iron if you don't have a heat gun or something more sophisticated. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/creation-of-hdep-sheet-with-just-one-plate/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/creation-of-hdep-sheet-with-just-one-plate/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index a75b34a91..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/creation-of-hdep-sheet-with-just-one-plate/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Outcome - - In this way, we will obtain a little homogeneous sheet but which serves to demonstrate and exemplify what an industrial process of plastic transformation can be like, making a simple approach from home. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/cut-out-shapes-out-of-plastic-sheets-with-a-cnc-/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/cut-out-shapes-out-of-plastic-sheets-with-a-cnc-/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4ba624044..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/cut-out-shapes-out-of-plastic-sheets-with-a-cnc-/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Cut out shapes out of plastic sheets with a CNC - - -In this how to, I will show you our process to cut HDPE Sheets using a X-Carve CNC. - -Here is the full video in spanish with subtitles https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4LrrFz802To \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/cut-out-shapes-out-of-plastic-sheets-with-a-cnc-/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/cut-out-shapes-out-of-plastic-sheets-with-a-cnc-/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 55f025239..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/cut-out-shapes-out-of-plastic-sheets-with-a-cnc-/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Measure the plastic sheet - - For this step we need to measure our plastic sheet: Height, Width and Thickness. Our X-Carve machine works with the CAM Software EASEL, for me, the easiest software for CNC milling out there. - -The cool thing about Easel (https://easel.inventables.com/) is that you can "simulate" your actual material and THEY EVEN HAVE HDPE 2-Colors in their cutting material lists!! - - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/cut-out-shapes-out-of-plastic-sheets-with-a-cnc-/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/cut-out-shapes-out-of-plastic-sheets-with-a-cnc-/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7165a4d49..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/cut-out-shapes-out-of-plastic-sheets-with-a-cnc-/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Secure sheet - - Using the CNC clamps from the X-Carve, secure the sheet to the table, \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/cut-out-shapes-out-of-plastic-sheets-with-a-cnc-/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/cut-out-shapes-out-of-plastic-sheets-with-a-cnc-/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2cf28a7fa..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/cut-out-shapes-out-of-plastic-sheets-with-a-cnc-/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Choosing a file to cut - - Now we go to our illustrator, such as Inkscape to design a vector file or download and open source one frome https://thenounproject.com/. - -We download the SVG file, which is an open source vector format and import it to Easel. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/cut-out-shapes-out-of-plastic-sheets-with-a-cnc-/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/cut-out-shapes-out-of-plastic-sheets-with-a-cnc-/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 89ce1955e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/cut-out-shapes-out-of-plastic-sheets-with-a-cnc-/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Follow the cutting Wizzard - - Now with the file we can choose the width we want to carve/cut and then we go to cut and start the wizzard: -- We check that the sheet is fixed. -- We also specify the cutting bit, we are using a 1/8 flat flute bit. -- We tell the machine where the coordinate 0-0 is, which we always choose as the down left corner. -- We raise the bit, turn on the Router!!! - -AND PUM THE MAGIC BEGINS!! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/cut-out-shapes-out-of-plastic-sheets-with-a-cnc-/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/cut-out-shapes-out-of-plastic-sheets-with-a-cnc-/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 3b7a95320..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/cut-out-shapes-out-of-plastic-sheets-with-a-cnc-/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Post-production and show case - - You take now your glasses or object and postprocess them and of course show it to your friends, family and so on. - - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/cut-out-shapes-out-of-plastic-sheets-with-a-cnc-/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/cut-out-shapes-out-of-plastic-sheets-with-a-cnc-/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 93a096f2d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/cut-out-shapes-out-of-plastic-sheets-with-a-cnc-/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Hack it and try it yourself - - You can try this project with other types of CNC machines, even manual Routers or manual saw, as I did on this video: https://youtu.be/gxkcffQD3eQ, but the important thing is that you share what you do and help this community to grow!!! - -Share your ideas and comments! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/cut-out-shapes-out-of-plastic-sheets-with-a-cnc/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/cut-out-shapes-out-of-plastic-sheets-with-a-cnc/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index b81cc510b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/cut-out-shapes-out-of-plastic-sheets-with-a-cnc/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Cut out shapes out of plastic sheets with a CNC - - -In this how to, I will show you our process to cut HDPE Sheets using a X-Carve CNC. - -Here is the full video in spanish with subtitles https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4LrrFz802To \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/cut-out-shapes-out-of-plastic-sheets-with-a-cnc/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/cut-out-shapes-out-of-plastic-sheets-with-a-cnc/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 322b4308d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/cut-out-shapes-out-of-plastic-sheets-with-a-cnc/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Meassure the plastic sheet - - For this step we need to meassure our plastic sheet: Height, Width and Thickness. Our X-Carve machine works with the CAM Software EASEL, for me, the easiest software for CNC milling out there. - -The cool thing about Easel (https://easel.inventables.com/) is that you can "simulate" you actual material and THEY EVEN HAVE HDPE 2-Colors in their cutting material lists!! - - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/cut-out-shapes-out-of-plastic-sheets-with-a-cnc/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/cut-out-shapes-out-of-plastic-sheets-with-a-cnc/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7165a4d49..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/cut-out-shapes-out-of-plastic-sheets-with-a-cnc/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Secure sheet - - Using the CNC clamps from the X-Carve, secure the sheet to the table, \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/cut-out-shapes-out-of-plastic-sheets-with-a-cnc/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/cut-out-shapes-out-of-plastic-sheets-with-a-cnc/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2cf28a7fa..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/cut-out-shapes-out-of-plastic-sheets-with-a-cnc/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Choosing a file to cut - - Now we go to our illustrator, such as Inkscape to design a vector file or download and open source one frome https://thenounproject.com/. - -We download the SVG file, which is an open source vector format and import it to Easel. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/cut-out-shapes-out-of-plastic-sheets-with-a-cnc/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/cut-out-shapes-out-of-plastic-sheets-with-a-cnc/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 89ce1955e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/cut-out-shapes-out-of-plastic-sheets-with-a-cnc/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Follow the cutting Wizzard - - Now with the file we can choose the width we want to carve/cut and then we go to cut and start the wizzard: -- We check that the sheet is fixed. -- We also specify the cutting bit, we are using a 1/8 flat flute bit. -- We tell the machine where the coordinate 0-0 is, which we always choose as the down left corner. -- We raise the bit, turn on the Router!!! - -AND PUM THE MAGIC BEGINS!! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/cut-out-shapes-out-of-plastic-sheets-with-a-cnc/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/cut-out-shapes-out-of-plastic-sheets-with-a-cnc/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 3b7a95320..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/cut-out-shapes-out-of-plastic-sheets-with-a-cnc/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Post-production and show case - - You take now your glasses or object and postprocess them and of course show it to your friends, family and so on. - - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/cut-plastic-jigsaw/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/cut-plastic-jigsaw/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 3136dd443..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/cut-plastic-jigsaw/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Cut plastic: Jigsaw - - -The jigsaw is one of the most accessible professional tools to cut. It’s also one of the more versatile ones offering straight cuts to curves and even the possibility to make inner holes. Here we’re going to explain some tips for applying this technique on plastic. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/cut-plastic-jigsaw/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/cut-plastic-jigsaw/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 00f7c76bb..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/cut-plastic-jigsaw/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Stay safe - - When talking about safety we are only referring to precautions about working specifically with plastic, as it’s our thing. We assume that working with the jigsaw needs a certain level of expertise so please take all the precautions related with how the tools work. - -When cutting with the jigsaw there is danger of overheating and melting the plastic. If this happens some bad fumes could be released. - -Special attention on plastics like PS and PVC! So in order to work safer make sure to use a gas mask with ABEK filters to prevent inhaling possible toxic fumes. An easy way to identify them is to check if the filter has four colour lines (brown, grey, yellow & green). \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/cut-plastic-jigsaw/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/cut-plastic-jigsaw/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index ae1f1db51..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/cut-plastic-jigsaw/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Collect the chips - - While cutting plastic with this tool, lots of chips will end up flying around the machine. - -Try to keep your working area clean and collect the chips as they can be used for further recycling. Like this you help reducing the amount of waste generated in your workspace and you save the chips from ending up as micro plastic in our environment! :) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/cut-plastic-jigsaw/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/cut-plastic-jigsaw/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 1c5404b2e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/cut-plastic-jigsaw/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11 +0,0 @@ -### Choose the right blade - - When selecting the blade several factors have to be taken in account. - -Type: We prefer using High-Carbon Steel blades (HCS) and High-Speed Steel blades (HSS) for these jobs. - -Teeth per inch (TPI): For brittle materials like PS will need a relatively big amount of TPI, around 10-13, in order to allow a safe and clean cut. A smaller amount will make the work faster but rougher. -For tough plastics like HDPE and PP we don’t need that many TPI, around 6 is good. An excessive amount of teeth will make it unnecessarily harder. - -Shape/Blade direction: The blade can point upward or downwards. It produces a smoother cut on the side of the piece that it’s cutting towards. And sometimes in brittle materials can produce chipping on the other side. -We recommend to use blades like the ones in the image, where the cutting angle of the teeth is negative or close to zero. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/cut-plastic-jigsaw/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/cut-plastic-jigsaw/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 3700cf0df..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/cut-plastic-jigsaw/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Cutting settings - - With our jigsaw we can choose between 5 different levels of cutting speed. For cutting plastic we want to set the speed high enough to cut easily but not low enough to prevent the plastic from melting. That’s why we set it on 4. - -For the orbital action cutting we set it at 1 or 2 for pieces up to 10mm for PS, and for pieces up to 20mm for HDPE and PP. Higher orbital actions will make the job faster and easier but won’t always guarantee a clean cut. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/cut-plastic-jigsaw/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/cut-plastic-jigsaw/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 13ffba466..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/cut-plastic-jigsaw/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Secure the piece firmly - - Vibrations will make the job unsafe and the cut inaccurate. - -Therefore make sure to clamp the piece firmly to the workbench. Use clamps with a rubberised jaw to prevent any scratches or marks on the sheet. - -Cut close to the workbench, to avoid as much vibration as possible and enable a stable cut. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/cut-plastic-jigsaw/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/cut-plastic-jigsaw/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index da56f4d74..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/cut-plastic-jigsaw/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Add coolant if needed - - With thicker pieces (> 10mm) the material sometimes keeps melting while cutting, no matter what blade and setting you use. - -In this case, adding cooling while cutting the piece helps. We like using an air compressor, which blows fresh air to the blade so it doesn’t overheat too easily. - -Using both machines at the same time may be a bit difficult though, so make sure to ask for help if needed. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/cut-plastic-jigsaw/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/cut-plastic-jigsaw/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4571cd156..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/cut-plastic-jigsaw/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### What makes a clean cut - - Generally, when cutting plastic, the biggest issue comes with overheating the material. That generates undesired melting. - -With the right blade and cutting settings you can avoid overheating. The explained settings proved useful for us and should be a good starting point, but it might slightly change with different plastic types and tools - so feel free to test it out yourself! :) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/cut-plastic-with-the-table-saw/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/cut-plastic-with-the-table-saw/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 34c0365f2..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/cut-plastic-with-the-table-saw/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Cut plastic with the table saw - - -The table saw is the best way to achieve straight cuts through a plate or a beam. However in order to achieve a clean cut in plastic there are few considerations we will explain here. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/cut-plastic-with-the-table-saw/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/cut-plastic-with-the-table-saw/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index a86c779f6..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/cut-plastic-with-the-table-saw/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Take the right precautions first. - - When talking about safety we are only referring to precautions about working specifically with plastic, as it’s our thing. We assume that working with the table saw needs certain level of expertise so please take all the precautions related with how the machine works. - -When cutting with the table saw there is danger of overheating and melting the plastic. If this happens some bad fumes could be released. So in order to work safer make sure to use a gas mask with ABEK filters to prevent inhaling possible toxic fumes. Special attention on plastics like PS and PVC. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/cut-plastic-with-the-table-saw/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/cut-plastic-with-the-table-saw/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 62d76ee49..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/cut-plastic-with-the-table-saw/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### What makes a clean cut - - When cutting, the blade removes small layers of plastic, which we call chips. A circular blade is made out of multiple small blades, which are called teeth. It could happen that due to the speed and force needed in the process some chips got melted damaging both the piece and the blade. - -So in order to avoid overheating, several factors have to be taken into account and finding the right blade and using the right cutting settings play an important role. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/cut-plastic-with-the-table-saw/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/cut-plastic-with-the-table-saw/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 49d87fe83..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/cut-plastic-with-the-table-saw/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Choose the right blade - - -When choosing a blade one important feature is the tooth configuration (drawing). That’s the shape of each teeth and that’s going to affect how the material is removed. After trying different blades we have conclude that a tooth configuration like this is more versatile as it works the best on HDPE, PP and PS. But If this specific blade is not provided by any of your local dealers try a Triple chip grind (TCG) as it would work pretty good for HDPE and PP. - -Also the cutting angle (âˆ) is going to define the way the material is going to be removed. This is the angle at which the blade is going to enter our piece. When working with plastic the cutting angle must be negative or at least 0º to reduce the stress while cutting and prevent chips from melting. Moreover, it’s important to keep your blades sharpened in order to guarantee the best result. - -Another important point is the number of teeth (Z) and that depends on how thick is the piece we want to cut. For a Ø300mm blade: -- A high number of teeth (84-96) works good for thicknesses up to 25mm. -- For thicker solid pieces we’ll need a blade with less teeth (72). The reason why is that we’ll need more space between tooth in order to remove the increased amount of material. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/cut-plastic-with-the-table-saw/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/cut-plastic-with-the-table-saw/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 864085ffa..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/cut-plastic-with-the-table-saw/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Cutting speed - - Usually while working with wood we set the machine to up to 4500 rpm. For plastic it is not the case. - -Much slower cutting speed (around 3000rpm) combined with a fast feeding will give the best results. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/cut-plastic-with-the-table-saw/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/cut-plastic-with-the-table-saw/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index f47be9728..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/cut-plastic-with-the-table-saw/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Blade height - - How high above the plate we place the blade could have a huge impact on the result. When working with plastic, less teeth cutting at the same time seems to create less heat and it tends to give cleaner cuts. - -That’s why we recommend to leave a significant distance between the plate and the top of the blade \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/cut-plastic-with-the-table-saw/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/cut-plastic-with-the-table-saw/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 958f6fc5e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/cut-plastic-with-the-table-saw/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Reduce the vibrations - - Give the piece enough stability to embrace the cut without vibrations. This will not only guarantee a safer job but will also give you the best results. - -You can do so by clamping the piece to the table and placing your hands safely where the clamp cannot reach. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/cyclette-shredder/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/cyclette-shredder/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7ac0ba92a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/cyclette-shredder/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### CYCLETTE SHREDDER - - -Bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/cyclette-shredder/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/cyclette-shredder/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index c9fc4fb35..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/cyclette-shredder/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### FRAME - - Bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/cyclette-shredder/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/cyclette-shredder/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 59ea44757..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/cyclette-shredder/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### SHREDDER BOX - - Bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/cyclette-shredder/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/cyclette-shredder/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index b7c2f468e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/cyclette-shredder/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### CUSTOMIZING - - Bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla bla \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/design-an-injection-mould/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/design-an-injection-mould/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 903a40b11..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/design-an-injection-mould/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Design an injection mould - - -An experience review designing a broom hanger mold: These are some steps to design a mold for the injection machine. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/design-an-injection-mould/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/design-an-injection-mould/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 73e3362b1..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/design-an-injection-mould/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Measure existing dimensions - - Be sure to get things accurate from the beginning! If your product is designed to fit with an existing object, take all of the measures from it, so that you start from the right point. For this broom hanger, I measured the diameters of different brooms and mops, ranging from 21-24mm. As the product will be a clamping system, I’ll use the smaller measurement of 21mm as a reference. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/design-an-injection-mould/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/design-an-injection-mould/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 219a4cdbe..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/design-an-injection-mould/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Sketch out your product idea - - It can be difficult to get an idea down on paper in the beginning, but it’s equally hard to formulate your design without a drawing. Let’s start with your imagination. Register on paper all the details that you can think of to create a good design. -Especially consider important aspects like the wall thickness. Influencing factors for this will include -A) The required injection pressure, -B) required flexibility of the product itself, and -C) resistance and durability of the material - -For this purpose, I use previous products I’ve developed to examine and compare the material. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/design-an-injection-mould/step_10.md b/resources/howtos-oa/design-an-injection-mould/step_10.md deleted file mode 100644 index f56a406a5..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/design-an-injection-mould/step_10.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Document it - - The design should conclude in drawings and a part list. Think on the step by step of the machining to identify the critical procedures (for example, when parts should be machined together to get an accurate fitting; or, how they will be fixed to the machine) and register all that information in the drawings. - -Do the part list for all the raw materials to work as a shopping list. Include dimension and quantity. (Remember to buy the raw parts a bit longer than the final parts. Between 5 and 10mm will be enough to fix the parts in the machines and adjust to the final measure). diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/design-an-injection-mould/step_11.md b/resources/howtos-oa/design-an-injection-mould/step_11.md deleted file mode 100644 index 396d87be6..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/design-an-injection-mould/step_11.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Turn it into reality - - Now that you have the design for your mold it's time to actually build it and make your product. -You can find the building process of this broom hanger in this How-to "Make a broom hanger" (https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/make-a-broom-hanger) or use these tips to come up with your own idea :) - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/design-an-injection-mould/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/design-an-injection-mould/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index d0dd86a53..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/design-an-injection-mould/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,13 +0,0 @@ -### “Mold†your idea - - What will define your product shape? As this broom hanger will be made with the injection machine, I have to think in an enclosed mold. With the product idea I’ve drawn before, I start designing the mold, looking for the best solution for each of these 6 Mold Design - -Criteria: -1) Define the product shape, -2) Use standard measures, -3) Receive the plastic and connect the mold, -4) Open after injection and eject the product, -5) Adjust and closure, and -6) Simplify the machining process. - -I’ll explain each in the next steps. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/design-an-injection-mould/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/design-an-injection-mould/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index ca8a7a892..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/design-an-injection-mould/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Define the product shape - - This is thinking on what shapes are going to create the cavity inside the mold. For this product, there are basically three pieces: -A cylinder (part 1) for the space of the broomstick, -concentric with a circular tube (part 2) which contains the outside of the hanger, -and a block (part 3) to cut the inner space and create the opening. - -With this, I’m starting to think in the standard bars and/or tubes I will use. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/design-an-injection-mould/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/design-an-injection-mould/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index b839f5527..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/design-an-injection-mould/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Use standard measures - - In my country (Colombia) the material dimensions mostly come in Inches (metal bar sections, steel planks thicknesses…), so are easier and cheaper to find. Adapting your measurements to the standard ones will avoid paying for excess material that you will then have to pay to remove. -So for the inner cylinder, I’ll use a ¾ inch rod (19,05mm), close enough to the 21mm of the broomstick. For the outer wall, I’ll use a 1 inch tube (25,4mm), so the thickness of the broom hanger will be approximately â…› inch (3.17mm). -Explore your local metal market and find which measures fit better for you! diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/design-an-injection-mould/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/design-an-injection-mould/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 6ec854dd3..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/design-an-injection-mould/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Plastic flow and mold connection - - Think about how the plastic will flow inside the mold. The path has to be as short as possible and with enough space for the plastic to flow throughout the entire mold. -For the entrance, I usually drill a ¼ inch hole with a maximum of 10mm height. The location should be in the center, so that the plastic can be distributed equally in each direction inside the mold. For the broom hanger, I chose to fill the mold from the center of its body. -To connect the mold to the injection machine, half of a standard ½ inch pipe nipple is used. Welded to a flange that can be attached to the mold (hopefully) with the closing screws. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/design-an-injection-mould/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/design-an-injection-mould/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index 6a984ef26..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/design-an-injection-mould/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Open after injection and expluse the product - - As the plastic solidifies into the product, you have to be able to open the mold and take it out. This means that the mold must split into several parts to release the product. But, a less number of parts means an easier to assemble, more steady and cheaper mold. So keep it simple! For the broom hanger, as the product works as a hook, I’m thinking of three pieces: two to form the exterior of the hanger, which splits in half to release the product; and another one to form the interior that will receive the broomstick, and will be released at the end pulling it out just as it will release the broom. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/design-an-injection-mould/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/design-an-injection-mould/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index c64d490e7..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/design-an-injection-mould/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Adjust and close - - One thing is to align the mold parts accurately and the other is to ensure that it withstands injection pressure without opening or displacing. To adjust and align, I use male/female guides between the parts so they will fit in place and support the injection pressure. Conic dowels are ideal and are a great help during the mold assembly to hold everything in place. To close the mould and bear the injection pressure, I use through screws that hold the mold parts tightly. I drill the mold holes a bit wider than the screws (for ¼†screws, I drill a 5/16†hole) so the disassembly will be easier even if a mould part gets displaced during the injection process. It is also a great idea to open the screw hole side, so the screw can be taken out by the side, only by loosening the bolts a bit and avoiding to have to loosen them completely. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/design-an-injection-mould/step_8.md b/resources/howtos-oa/design-an-injection-mould/step_8.md deleted file mode 100644 index 26ae210cc..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/design-an-injection-mould/step_8.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Simplify the machining process - - Design your products with basic shapes. Cubes, Cylinders, Cones and Straight Lines are shapes easy to create with manual lattes and mills. Concentric, aligned and perpendicular figures improve the machining process. Minimalism in the design results in minimalism in the process. Also, design with standard measures. Holes of the size of a drilling bit, canals of the width of a milling cutter can be done faster and with more precision. So the broom hanger product is going to be basically a straight plastic tube with an opening on one side. This means straight lines milling and circular holes to create all the mold parts. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/design-an-injection-mould/step_9.md b/resources/howtos-oa/design-an-injection-mould/step_9.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8818c7b5e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/design-an-injection-mould/step_9.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Use the PC tools - - We’re looking for more accuracy than we can create on paper, so to get the real dimensions of the cuts and machining, now we can model our mold using CAD software. At this point we are continuing on our process from the previous step, just with a different tool. Using CAD we can model different versions of the mold and shape new or improved versions, stemming from the 6 Mold Design Criteria. - -Here some of the decisions I made during the process and mold design: -- The best location for the injection point is in the middle of the body of the product. -- To avoid the risk of pressure opening the mold, the injection point is better in a solid part than at the joining of the mold. -- The flange with the nipple connector should be attached over a flat face of the mold with the same closing screws. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/design-moulds-for-sunglasses/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/design-moulds-for-sunglasses/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 09dc4a2cd..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/design-moulds-for-sunglasses/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Design moulds for sunglasses - - -At Esfèrica we’ve been working to understand how to uphold the value of waste plastics for the past 5 years. Today, our project FOS Barcelona offers eyewear made with local waste and moulds for others to fabricate them in their area, in an effort to enhance distributed design. - -Here we’ll guide you through aspects we learned on our way. - -1: What you need -2-5: Design sunglasses -6-10: Design mould \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/design-moulds-for-sunglasses/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/design-moulds-for-sunglasses/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 506c27e29..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/design-moulds-for-sunglasses/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### What you need - - To make all the process yourself, you will need: -1. A clear mind about the model you want to create. -2. A computer and some experience working with CAD software. -3. A good CNC milling machine or a manufacturing partner. -4. An injection machine. - -Ok. Let’s dive into the steps then. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/design-moulds-for-sunglasses/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/design-moulds-for-sunglasses/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9c0cac157..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/design-moulds-for-sunglasses/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### DESIGN THE SUNGLASSES - - When designing eyewear you can go wild, and reach few, or start with the classics, and reach many. It only depends on your intentions to choose one way or another. - -Once you have a target chosen, you will need to make decisions regarding a couple of components, which we’ll go through in the next steps. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/design-moulds-for-sunglasses/step_10.md b/resources/howtos-oa/design-moulds-for-sunglasses/step_10.md deleted file mode 100644 index b71d95ea3..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/design-moulds-for-sunglasses/step_10.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Logos and inscriptions - - To end your product, it is interesting to get awesome inscriptions on it and make sure whomever receives your product knows who made it. Two main options here: - -1: Mill a logo or inscription of your brand, limiting the production to one brand name, but being able to have high quality inscriptions without extra efforts or time. The image shows the moulds we made for Experiencia Emprendedora from Argentina. - -2: Using the awesome Samsara’s method of pressure-marking your logos and inscriptions on the surfaces. The quality won’t be as high, but it will allow you to use the mould for a variety of projects and brands, while you establish yours (if that is your plan). - -Photo credits: samsaratrc \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/design-moulds-for-sunglasses/step_11.md b/resources/howtos-oa/design-moulds-for-sunglasses/step_11.md deleted file mode 100644 index 31453af98..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/design-moulds-for-sunglasses/step_11.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### GET READY TO INJECT THOUSANDS! - - Once you understand the process fully, it’s time to tailor to your needs, your machines, moulds and products so you can reach the targets you set. Automating part of your process might be a good idea once you start selling regularly. -And don’t forget to pay a lot of attention to the colour formulas for your products, it’s fun! diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/design-moulds-for-sunglasses/step_12.md b/resources/howtos-oa/design-moulds-for-sunglasses/step_12.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4d25c4164..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/design-moulds-for-sunglasses/step_12.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### EMBRACE DISTRIBUTED DESIGN - - At FOS we aim to help projects and people to be able to make the eyewear we’ve designed in their local ecosystems, hence making possible for us to stop shipping products individually and by airmail, which is a HUGE contradiction. For this, we’ve created packages that include knowledge and moulds for anyone to be able to start selling eyewear made out of plastic waste ANYWHERE. - -Distributed design is a powerful concept that needs to become a standard. We’re still far from that, but this is our contribution, so if you are interested in those packages, check our profile out. :) - -WEB: https://www.fosbarcelona.com/ -IG: https://www.instagram.com/ -BAZAR: https://bazar.preciousplastic.com/esferica diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/design-moulds-for-sunglasses/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/design-moulds-for-sunglasses/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index a2703eb67..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/design-moulds-for-sunglasses/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Sunglasses model - Hinges - - Metal hinges: There are several metal hinges options in the market, being the most common riveted - fixed with rivets -, in mould - placed in the mould before every injection -, screwed in - inserted after the injection and fixed using screws -, and fused - inserted after injection using heat -. -Of all of them, the easiest to detach from the product once its lifespan is over, is the screw-in models and that is the reason we choose to use this one. - -Plastic hinges: See next step diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/design-moulds-for-sunglasses/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/design-moulds-for-sunglasses/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 70463a067..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/design-moulds-for-sunglasses/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Sunglasses model - Hinges - - Plastic hinges: Made in the mould. This is the most sustainable choice. No materials mixtures and durability that might go beyond eyewear with metal hinges, if designed properly. The downside is the quality perception, a key point when developing products that need to sell, and a parameter that many times has no connection to actual quality, but rather with the different perceptions around materials and products present in each corner of the world. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/design-moulds-for-sunglasses/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/design-moulds-for-sunglasses/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 0a489e55a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/design-moulds-for-sunglasses/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Sunglasses model - Lenses - - There is a wide variety of lenses in the market. Again, depending on your target and the type of eyewear you want to make you will choose one type or another. The main ones are the following, although there are many others for specific applications: - -Polycarbonate: Lenses for sports and action eyewear due to its resistance. -CR-39 (polymer): The most used type of lenses. -Mineral lenses: The glass lenses that are used less and less due to their weight and the fact that they break when falling. The main advantage is its scratch resistance. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/design-moulds-for-sunglasses/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/design-moulds-for-sunglasses/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 5ff960b9e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/design-moulds-for-sunglasses/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Sunglasses Model - Base - - Depending on the type of eyewear you will want the frame to have a bigger curvature to cover as much face as possible, or a completely flat frame, to follow the lastest of the fashion trends ;) - -The Base value is what is used to define this curvature. The higher the base number, the smaller the diameter of the curvature of the frame will be. Base nine is used for sport eyewear, which offers a pretty tight fit to protect the eyes as much as possible, whereas a base 2 is used for fashion eyewear where the frame is almost flat. - -Our Classic model used to be base 6. Our new models are base 4. - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/design-moulds-for-sunglasses/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/design-moulds-for-sunglasses/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index 230743e1e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/design-moulds-for-sunglasses/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### DESIGN THE MOULD - - When designing moulds to make eyewear with Precious Plastic machinery you need to make a fine exercise of balancing costs and mould quality. -For a really good finished product with little post processing needed, high quality inscriptions and outstanding surface finishes, you will have to spend €€€. -For testing purposes you can mill the mould way faster and with simpler machines, saving quite a chunk. -It is vital to understand that it doesn’t make sense to make moulds that are as good as industrial moulds for the obvious reason that they will then be almost as expensive as industrial moulds! -We went for a high quality mould that will require a small amount of postprocessing. - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/design-moulds-for-sunglasses/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/design-moulds-for-sunglasses/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index 93c194ea1..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/design-moulds-for-sunglasses/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Parting lines - - If you go for a cheaper mould, then go for parting lines in the edge of the parts, making it easy to post process and to achieve good final results. - -If you go for a good mould, place them either way, since they will be good enough for you not to post process them or simply polish them slightly. In this case, design choices might be the parameters that will help you decide. The images you see show how to slightly hide the parting line by adding a round up, which will make the mould slightly more expensive (especially if you do this on small features that could want a few tool changes and a lot more time) or how to keep it simple. - - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/design-moulds-for-sunglasses/step_8.md b/resources/howtos-oa/design-moulds-for-sunglasses/step_8.md deleted file mode 100644 index 3b5b9ea5b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/design-moulds-for-sunglasses/step_8.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Closing system: How complex? - - Closing system: How complex? -A closing system that allows for faster productions can be very costly. The clamping pressure in an injection mould is vital for good results and mould life. It is, however, not easy to find a system that allows for constant mould change and high enough pressures, evenly distributed, at a low price. -Using simple screws is a good solution for a smaller budget: It’s cheap and offers a perfect clamping pressure if they are placed right. However, it will be slower to open and close the mould. -Our recommendation is to start with screws, understand your real needs, and work from there. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/design-moulds-for-sunglasses/step_9.md b/resources/howtos-oa/design-moulds-for-sunglasses/step_9.md deleted file mode 100644 index 163cfed19..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/design-moulds-for-sunglasses/step_9.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Surface finishings - - Depending on budget and intentions you can leave the tool paths, or bead blast or polish them. - -1: Leaving the tool paths is the cheapest option. You can always play with the cutting direction to make patterns - the result can be pretty interesting. - -2: Bead blasting is the cheapest way to have an even surface in a mould. With this, however, it is not possible to get a shiny finish. There are several standards for bead blasting, varying for different parts of the world. Your manufacturing partner will be able to guide you through them. - -3: Polishing offers the evenest result. As it is made by hand, it is also the most expensive one. Look for the grade you need. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/desktop-hand-table-extruder-/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/desktop-hand-table-extruder-/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index a7ff271bf..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/desktop-hand-table-extruder-/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,14 +0,0 @@ -### Desktop hand table extruder - - -Desktop extruder for home use. It has a socket for fastening with clamps to the table. Transparent case walls allow you to see the components. Has a surface for pre-drying plastic. - -In this folder you will find: -1) 3D CAD (.SLDPRT) -2) Photo set assembling extruder. - -This extruder is designed for small batch production as well as public presentations. This is completely my development, but feel free to make changes to it at your discretion. - -Fill in the plastic, twist the handle and "voila!" new eco-friendly recycled product! - -Suitable for working with plastic at melting temperatures up to 300 degrees. I built it for 220 volts (you can adapt it for yourself). \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/desktop-hand-table-extruder-/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/desktop-hand-table-extruder-/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7f66c3dea..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/desktop-hand-table-extruder-/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Order electronics for a project - - It will most likely take time to ship, so it's best to start there. REX-100 and solid state relay with thermocouple can often be found as a kit. For heating, I used 2 ring heaters. Also, add a switch at the back. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/desktop-hand-table-extruder-/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/desktop-hand-table-extruder-/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4e00a4b86..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/desktop-hand-table-extruder-/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Decide on the materials - - Various materials were used for the project: - -for the base of the mechanism, the base and small parts - structural steel 2 mm; -for walls - plexiglass 2 mm; -for handles - wood or plastic; -for the roof - sheet steel 0.4 mm. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/desktop-hand-table-extruder-/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/desktop-hand-table-extruder-/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index b0c8c1098..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/desktop-hand-table-extruder-/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Save files for laser cutting - - Check with the local manufacturer in what format they need to transfer files for laser cutting and bending and convert the files to this format. Usually in the format .dxf, .cdr or .dwg - -Thin sheet steel for the roof can be cut and bent by hand. I recommend cutting the rest exactly according to the dimensions of the drawing automatically. This will save you time and give excellent quality at a reasonable price. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/desktop-hand-table-extruder-/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/desktop-hand-table-extruder-/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index a265c1ba4..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/desktop-hand-table-extruder-/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Order cutting of materials - - You may not have to buy cutting materials yourself, they will already be in the plexiglass steel cutting service. This is beneficial, you will not be left with pieces of unused material. - -With a heated pipe, it's a little more complicated. You can thread a regular pipe or weld a pre-threaded flange to a pipe. I chose the second option. It requires welding and post-processing, but if you do not have the necessary tools, this is not a bad option. -Also, it will be necessary to make a cut in the pipe for the funnel. Its walls will be cut with a laser, they will remain to be welded. - -Instead of a professional auger, I used a large 28x350 mm wood twist drill. -Used paint to prevent corrosion. Also, wires will be needed to connect the electronics. Detailed instructions for connecting the kit used are available online. -Clamps are required to attach to the table. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/desktop-hand-table-extruder-/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/desktop-hand-table-extruder-/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 68ecea8b1..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/desktop-hand-table-extruder-/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Add the design you like - - I wanted this machine to be beautiful. Add design elements to your liking to make the device a pleasure to work with. And… done! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/dog-feeder-with-plastic-sheets/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/dog-feeder-with-plastic-sheets/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index e2c6fae41..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/dog-feeder-with-plastic-sheets/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Dog feeder with plastic sheets - - -A dog feeder is like a box that allows your pet to eat at a comfortable height. In this case, I use a compression method to create plastic sheets." diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/dog-feeder-with-plastic-sheets/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/dog-feeder-with-plastic-sheets/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index b8fd0f5df..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/dog-feeder-with-plastic-sheets/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,20 +0,0 @@ -### Make a plastic sheets - - We need three plastic sheets (1cm thickness) -Top: 27 x 27 cm -Front Base: 27 x 17 cm -Lateral base: 25x 17 cm - - -. -. -. -. -. -. -. -. -. -. -. -. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/dog-feeder-with-plastic-sheets/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/dog-feeder-with-plastic-sheets/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7f0f23090..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/dog-feeder-with-plastic-sheets/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Plastic sheet cuts - - We have to cut three 23 cm circles, one for the plate and two for the base legs - -For this step we use a milling machine \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/dog-feeder-with-plastic-sheets/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/dog-feeder-with-plastic-sheets/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index da4478c6a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/dog-feeder-with-plastic-sheets/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,19 +0,0 @@ -### Base Legs cut - - Here we have to cut to the sheets in half - -In this case we use a bench saw -. -. -. -. -. -. -. -. -. -. -. -. -. -. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/dog-feeder-with-plastic-sheets/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/dog-feeder-with-plastic-sheets/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index d1cca076f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/dog-feeder-with-plastic-sheets/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Armed and glued - - Assemble, glue and screw. - -You can view all steps here https://youtu.be/JEMyVYD8e2o?si=iBw7vc3n7JW14OE0 - - - -With the leftovers circles you can make wall clocks. - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/dog-feeder-with-plastic-sheets/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/dog-feeder-with-plastic-sheets/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 6425f52fe..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/dog-feeder-with-plastic-sheets/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,54 +0,0 @@ -### The whole procces here - - -. -. -. -. -. -. -. -. -. -. -. -. - -. -. -. -. -. -. -. -. -. -. -. -. - -. -. -. -. -. -. -. -. -. -. -. -. - -. -. -. -. -. -. -. -. https://youtu.be/JEMyVYD8e2o?si=iBw7vc3n7JW14OE0 -. -. -. -. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/double-face--2-colours--plastic-sheet-/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/double-face--2-colours--plastic-sheet-/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index c38343c1a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/double-face--2-colours--plastic-sheet-/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Double Face ( 2 colours ) Plastic Sheet - - -How to build your double face sheet press in easy steps. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/double-face--2-colours--plastic-sheet-/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/double-face--2-colours--plastic-sheet-/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 038453682..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/double-face--2-colours--plastic-sheet-/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Material Preparation - - Make sure that your mould is clean and that you have used silicon to avoid plastic sticking to it. - -First step is to select two colours and weigh the material according to your mould size. In this case, our sheet is 1400g, so we used the scale to weigh 700g from organde and 700g from blue flakes \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/double-face--2-colours--plastic-sheet-/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/double-face--2-colours--plastic-sheet-/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2ffcb6652..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/double-face--2-colours--plastic-sheet-/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Melt your plastic by layers - - Place all the one coloured flakes into the moulds and melt it at low temperature ( around 160 C using our oven). The temperature should not be so high since we are not yet using the cover mould on top. - -Once the first layer is homogeneously melted, put the other layer ( in our case, blue) on top of the melted layers and cover it with the top mould. Attention: try to be quick in this procedure to avoid that the first layer cools off too fast and create a surface division. - -Put it back into the oven until the new layer is also melted ( around 15min in our oven). Here we raised a bit the temperature to 180 - 190 C. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/double-face--2-colours--plastic-sheet-/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/double-face--2-colours--plastic-sheet-/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2c85fbbfa..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/double-face--2-colours--plastic-sheet-/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Finalize your sheet - - After the oven, make sure you press the mould in the sheet press to remove all bubbles and ensure a smooth surface! - -After pressing and cooling, your sheet is ready! Explore the several creative things you can do with such sheets such as double-face shelves, stools, tables and so on! ;) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/double-face-plastic-sheet-/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/double-face-plastic-sheet-/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 3c2e7ba69..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/double-face-plastic-sheet-/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Double Face Plastic Sheet - - -How to build your double face sheet press in easy steps. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/double-face-plastic-sheet-/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/double-face-plastic-sheet-/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 038453682..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/double-face-plastic-sheet-/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Material Preparation - - Make sure that your mould is clean and that you have used silicon to avoid plastic sticking to it. - -First step is to select two colours and weigh the material according to your mould size. In this case, our sheet is 1400g, so we used the scale to weigh 700g from organde and 700g from blue flakes \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/double-face-plastic-sheet-/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/double-face-plastic-sheet-/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2ffcb6652..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/double-face-plastic-sheet-/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Melt your plastic by layers - - Place all the one coloured flakes into the moulds and melt it at low temperature ( around 160 C using our oven). The temperature should not be so high since we are not yet using the cover mould on top. - -Once the first layer is homogeneously melted, put the other layer ( in our case, blue) on top of the melted layers and cover it with the top mould. Attention: try to be quick in this procedure to avoid that the first layer cools off too fast and create a surface division. - -Put it back into the oven until the new layer is also melted ( around 15min in our oven). Here we raised a bit the temperature to 180 - 190 C. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/double-face-plastic-sheet-/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/double-face-plastic-sheet-/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2c85fbbfa..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/double-face-plastic-sheet-/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Finalize your sheet - - After the oven, make sure you press the mould in the sheet press to remove all bubbles and ensure a smooth surface! - -After pressing and cooling, your sheet is ready! Explore the several creative things you can do with such sheets such as double-face shelves, stools, tables and so on! ;) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/drill-and-screw-through-plastic/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/drill-and-screw-through-plastic/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index c0e07202d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/drill-and-screw-through-plastic/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Drill and screw through plastic - - -When screwing through plastic, several factors have to be taken into account. Here we will explain a few steps and tips to make the job easier. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/drill-and-screw-through-plastic/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/drill-and-screw-through-plastic/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 58c2203c5..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/drill-and-screw-through-plastic/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Stay safe - - When talking about safety we are only referring to precautions about working specifically with plastic, as it’s our thing. We assume that working with the drill press needs a certain level of expertise so please take all the precautions related with how the tool works. - -When using the drill, special attention must be taken when working with plastics such as PS or ABS. There is a danger of overheating the material locally and accidentally releasing bad fumes. So in order to work safer make sure to use a gas mask with ABEK filters to prevent inhaling possibly toxic fumes. An easy way to identify them is to check if the filter has four colour lines (brown, grey, yellow & green). diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/drill-and-screw-through-plastic/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/drill-and-screw-through-plastic/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 3f0d89beb..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/drill-and-screw-through-plastic/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Collect the valuable offcuts - - Processes like drilling create a lot of small plastic pieces. Try to collect all the offcuts you generate since they can be used perfectly as pellets for your further projects - and that also saves them from ending up as microplastic in the environment! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/drill-and-screw-through-plastic/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/drill-and-screw-through-plastic/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 6c3d30af6..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/drill-and-screw-through-plastic/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Pre-drill - - In order to avoid any deformation and the possibility to break the piece we recommend to pre-drill a hole with a slightly smaller diameter than the screw (e.g. for a 3mm wood screw you’ll pre-drill a 2mm hole). This is especially needed for holes which are closer than 8mm to the edge and when working with PS in general. - -
Setup: -The best way to drill through plastic is a combination of a metal drill bit and setting the machine at high speed. Special attention while working with brittle plastics like PS since one of the sides generally ends up chipped. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/drill-and-screw-through-plastic/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/drill-and-screw-through-plastic/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 25c2c15e8..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/drill-and-screw-through-plastic/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Countersink the hole - - Depending on the type of screw you choose you can use a countersink bit to countersink one side of the hole. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/drill-and-screw-through-plastic/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/drill-and-screw-through-plastic/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index c3fb61632..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/drill-and-screw-through-plastic/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Threading the hole - - When working with bolts, you might want to thread the inside of the whole. Plastic materials fully embrace this technique. -For tough materials like HDPE and PP this is not urgently needed though, as just screwing in the bolt is often enough to hold it pretty tight. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/dry-materials-for-higher-quality-products/Step_3.jpg b/resources/howtos-oa/dry-materials-for-higher-quality-products/Step_3.jpg deleted file mode 100644 index a76644aa4..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/dry-materials-for-higher-quality-products/Step_3.jpg +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -version https://git-lfs.github.com/spec/v1 -oid sha256:69d7b5d63bb93a63cfe6f713209e84ef26c061b926fa7bd1b937b29a64fe90b2 -size 90432 diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/dry-materials-for-higher-quality-products/Step_3_2.jpg b/resources/howtos-oa/dry-materials-for-higher-quality-products/Step_3_2.jpg deleted file mode 100644 index 8b14d4dca..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/dry-materials-for-higher-quality-products/Step_3_2.jpg +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -version https://git-lfs.github.com/spec/v1 -oid sha256:fa32cb12437104029a8c5d551120fed25e68ede7b16f7dcb6a2bb895a58993c9 -size 96602 diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/dry-materials-for-higher-quality-products/Step_4_.jpg b/resources/howtos-oa/dry-materials-for-higher-quality-products/Step_4_.jpg deleted file mode 100644 index 7da8f52de..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/dry-materials-for-higher-quality-products/Step_4_.jpg +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -version https://git-lfs.github.com/spec/v1 -oid sha256:f6d14d4fea4ae81b39b0833151b88b2f02e2f700b5af642ba3e692e9d1831a1c -size 114021 diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/dry-materials-for-higher-quality-products/Step_4_1.jpg b/resources/howtos-oa/dry-materials-for-higher-quality-products/Step_4_1.jpg deleted file mode 100644 index 8d1664df6..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/dry-materials-for-higher-quality-products/Step_4_1.jpg +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -version https://git-lfs.github.com/spec/v1 -oid sha256:e779fb76d8e8953b1f2ed9ac155e4e427f93931819a2b86182d60239162a67fb -size 103027 diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/dry-materials-for-higher-quality-products/Step_5.jpg b/resources/howtos-oa/dry-materials-for-higher-quality-products/Step_5.jpg deleted file mode 100644 index d1c891446..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/dry-materials-for-higher-quality-products/Step_5.jpg +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -version https://git-lfs.github.com/spec/v1 -oid sha256:166b13cb0ec64f85f97e71e3753532ceb3959aa768c6c9d5c63ed17360ad9316 -size 115309 diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/dry-materials-for-higher-quality-products/Step_5_2.jpg b/resources/howtos-oa/dry-materials-for-higher-quality-products/Step_5_2.jpg deleted file mode 100644 index 6bbb05826..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/dry-materials-for-higher-quality-products/Step_5_2.jpg +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -version https://git-lfs.github.com/spec/v1 -oid sha256:5eb2ea525c87462c651fac9457bb697f0c680eee3047b31cbd8fb22beca4c440 -size 95356 diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/dry-materials-for-higher-quality-products/Step_6.jpg b/resources/howtos-oa/dry-materials-for-higher-quality-products/Step_6.jpg deleted file mode 100644 index 666e80628..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/dry-materials-for-higher-quality-products/Step_6.jpg +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -version https://git-lfs.github.com/spec/v1 -oid sha256:a17736a6fba372ff2305163e78b8ed8232de280369526f2c81c744537cd3e4fa -size 124121 diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/dry-materials-for-higher-quality-products/Step_6_2.jpg b/resources/howtos-oa/dry-materials-for-higher-quality-products/Step_6_2.jpg deleted file mode 100644 index ed8918a33..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/dry-materials-for-higher-quality-products/Step_6_2.jpg +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -version https://git-lfs.github.com/spec/v1 -oid sha256:ecf9a4958d812a9243df3d5658c6905ea34cf62646b4397ac1e17db9ecd9a011 -size 121334 diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/dry-materials-for-higher-quality-products/Step_7.jpg b/resources/howtos-oa/dry-materials-for-higher-quality-products/Step_7.jpg deleted file mode 100644 index a13be97d7..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/dry-materials-for-higher-quality-products/Step_7.jpg +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -version https://git-lfs.github.com/spec/v1 -oid sha256:e968130d7c8e0892ae7f6cf6ff58b8522ded1be65a375240f3ee083f9662e76f -size 128707 diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/dry-materials-for-higher-quality-products/Step_last.jpg b/resources/howtos-oa/dry-materials-for-higher-quality-products/Step_last.jpg deleted file mode 100644 index 747f666fb..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/dry-materials-for-higher-quality-products/Step_last.jpg +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -version https://git-lfs.github.com/spec/v1 -oid sha256:d530da7bff1a76e9ded7ab20b7eb5a69b3d37a6cfa89ad5283046ab17a83db06 -size 134616 diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/dry-materials-for-higher-quality-products/Step_last_2.jpg b/resources/howtos-oa/dry-materials-for-higher-quality-products/Step_last_2.jpg deleted file mode 100644 index 3839e1b4f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/dry-materials-for-higher-quality-products/Step_last_2.jpg +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -version https://git-lfs.github.com/spec/v1 -oid sha256:244b9887634c3dc44f1494d1ce19f4e4f614e9fa32e75c2b1937c84e45172d7d -size 81823 diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/dry-materials-for-higher-quality-products/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/dry-materials-for-higher-quality-products/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 75042605d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/dry-materials-for-higher-quality-products/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Dry materials for higher quality products - - -When you want to make products using more advanced Materials (e.g. industrial waste), drying your granulate is a necessary step. -We will show you how to dry your granulate before extrusion cheaply and effectively, which is especially important if you want to make high quality products like 3d printing filament. - -You can check out our How-To video here: -https://youtu.be/dkm_gXxX2pk \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/dry-materials-for-higher-quality-products/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/dry-materials-for-higher-quality-products/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 042718b6b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/dry-materials-for-higher-quality-products/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### When and why to dry - - There are two main types of polymers, polar and nonpolar. Nonpolar Materials usually don't need to be dried. Exposing nonpolar materials (HDPE/PP etc.) to water is like putting oil in water. Almost every other commercial polymer has some level of polarity and therefore can absorb a certain amount of moisture from the air. Many materials are dried only to optimize surface appearance, too much moisture can lead to cosmetic defects known as splay or silver streaking. Other polymers are damaged if they are processed with too much moisture. These materials chemically react with the moisture (hydrolysis), resulting in a reduction in material strength. Check out the material overview below. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/dry-materials-for-higher-quality-products/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/dry-materials-for-higher-quality-products/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index b3645774f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/dry-materials-for-higher-quality-products/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Different drying methods - - There are several different DIY methods to dry polymeres; you can use an oven, a dehydrator or a vacuum dryer. -But In this How-To we will focus on a self-built drybox with silica gel, because this method delivers the best results while being cheap, easy and energy efficient. One of the problems we encountered with the oven is overheating the plastic, resulting in a big mess. We tried replacing the silica gel with a household dehydrator, but they are not designed to achieve this kind of low humidity levels needed to effectively dry plastic. We also included a temperature table for different polymers. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/dry-materials-for-higher-quality-products/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/dry-materials-for-higher-quality-products/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 916cdc6ad..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/dry-materials-for-higher-quality-products/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Make and airtight plastic box - - To make our drybox, we simply use a plastic box that we upgrade with some window seals to make it airtight. Simply, glue them to the rim of the box. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/dry-materials-for-higher-quality-products/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/dry-materials-for-higher-quality-products/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 37611b660..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/dry-materials-for-higher-quality-products/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Get Silica Gel - - You might already know silica gel from a shoebox for instance. It comes in small bags in order to keep the inside dry by absorbing any moisture. Silica gel works perfectly with polymers as well so just put around 2 kilograms in the plastic box. There is no particular amount you have to use, but the more you have in the box the less often you need to take them out and dry them. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/dry-materials-for-higher-quality-products/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/dry-materials-for-higher-quality-products/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index c8b6fe1fb..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/dry-materials-for-higher-quality-products/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Get a hygrometer - - A hygrometer comes in handy to check the humidity inside the drybox. It is convenient to use a transparent box so you can keep track of the drying process at all time. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/dry-materials-for-higher-quality-products/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/dry-materials-for-higher-quality-products/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 0dbb9aff3..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/dry-materials-for-higher-quality-products/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Place granulate inside the box - - Using a microplastic bag (we use one from Guppyfriend) to place the material inside of the drybox will save you time and space. It keeps everything in place while the humidity can get out. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/dry-materials-for-higher-quality-products/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/dry-materials-for-higher-quality-products/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7400e3190..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/dry-materials-for-higher-quality-products/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Check the results - - The simplest method to measure how much moisture has been absorbed is weighing the granulate beforehand and afterwards. -Unfortunately, if you are using hot air to dry granulat, volatiles are released from the sample, also reducing the weight. Therefore the weight loss does not exactly equal the loss of moisture so the measurement is imprecise. The professional approach involves making accurate moisture measurements in the drying hopper. This is possible using measurements of dielectric properties in real time. sensors are very expensive though. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/dry-materials-for-higher-quality-products/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/dry-materials-for-higher-quality-products/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index b22a4e1d0..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/dry-materials-for-higher-quality-products/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Renew the silica gel - - After a while, you will notice that the silica gel reaches its maximum capacity of water that it can absorb. Simply put it in the oven for one or two hours at about 100°C/212°F and it will be as good as new. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/dry-materials-for-higher-quality-products/step_8.md b/resources/howtos-oa/dry-materials-for-higher-quality-products/step_8.md deleted file mode 100644 index 3170a1637..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/dry-materials-for-higher-quality-products/step_8.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Bonus tip - - Rapid changes in the Temperature lead to surface moisture. -If a cold drink placed outside in the hot summer, you will notice that water starts condensing on the surface. -This also is the case for polymers. We had many problems because we took plastic from the cold, damp garage to the warm production area. This resulted in a lot of surface moisture that produced bubbles and inconsistencies in our 3D-Printing Filament. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/dumbbells-made-from-marine-litter/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/dumbbells-made-from-marine-litter/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index cb4cee421..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/dumbbells-made-from-marine-litter/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Dumbbells made from marine litter - - -Manufacture of dumbbells for exercise from recycled polypropylene plastic and fishing nets recovered by fishermen from the coast of Spain. -We present two important processes, at first the creation of panels with a sheetpress. And then the cutting and manufacturing of product, in this case dumbbells. -This is a project developed jointly with Vertidos Cero Association. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/dumbbells-made-from-marine-litter/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/dumbbells-made-from-marine-litter/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 520728ef4..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/dumbbells-made-from-marine-litter/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Preparation of material - - • The fishing nets arrive in our workshop clean and crushed, ready to be used in the heat press. - -• We mix it with the base material (polypropylene) taking care about the desired proportions and quantities. - -• Then we use a kind of industrial dryer to remove moisture. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/dumbbells-made-from-marine-litter/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/dumbbells-made-from-marine-litter/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 305e69d4e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/dumbbells-made-from-marine-litter/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Manufacture of boards - - • After having the material dry and mixed it's ready to take it to sheetpress. - -• For the elaboration of boards we use a sheetpress that allows us to manufacture boards of 220cm x 90cm and from 1cm to 3cm of thickness. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/dumbbells-made-from-marine-litter/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/dumbbells-made-from-marine-litter/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index fb4b5ae82..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/dumbbells-made-from-marine-litter/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Cutting and machining of boards - - • Having a predefined design, we take the material to be machined on CNC cutting machine. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/dumbbells-made-from-marine-litter/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/dumbbells-made-from-marine-litter/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9f18dc3a5..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/dumbbells-made-from-marine-litter/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Manufacture of the handle of dumbbells - - • Having a predefined design, we take the material to be machined on CNC cutting machine. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/ease-molds-handling/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/ease-molds-handling/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 576d5de7c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/ease-molds-handling/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Ease molds handling - - -Up to this point, to move a mold, we used kind of a shovel to push it from a workstation to another. A rather tedious and imprecise method. - -In this tutorial, we will show you how we made the handling of our molds easier using lightweight materials and a winch to pull them around. - -- Easier and less tiring method. -- Can be done by a single person. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/ease-molds-handling/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/ease-molds-handling/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index fba216b7c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/ease-molds-handling/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Installing a winch - - We decided to use a manual winch (Einhell TC-WI500) to pull molds instead of pushing them. -The winch has been installed on a wall behind the Coldpress, 1m50 above ground, routhly 30cm above the preparation table in our case. Feel free to adapt these dimensions to your machines. - -Note that our 3 workstations are all lined, and both Setup Table and Coldpress equipped with wheels and brakes. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/ease-molds-handling/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/ease-molds-handling/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index a1b699546..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/ease-molds-handling/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Link winch and mold - - Let’s focus on the link between the winch’s cable and the mold. - -We changed the conception and the format of our mold’s sheets. They now are 120*125cm so our linking system can outreach the hot plates of the Sheetpress once the mold is installed. - -Our linkage system is made of 2 cables on edges of the mold sheets forming loops. The witch's cable tip is looped the same way. A steel rod can go through these 3 loops to pull together the mold and cable, as you can see on the picture. You can note the presence of grooves in which the cables get stuck, to prevent them from slipping along the rod. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/ease-molds-handling/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/ease-molds-handling/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index f37bf15ae..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/ease-molds-handling/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Transfers and handling - - Once the mold is filled, sitting on the setup table and the Sheetpress is at working temperature, we unwind the winch letting the cable through the Coldpress and the Sheetpress, before attaching it to the mold. Then, we wind the cable around the winch to pull the mold into the Sheetpress. - -Once the mold is ready to be cooled down, we push the Coldpress close and pull in the mold. - -Once the Coldpress loaded with a mold, the cable cannot go through it. -- To load a mold into the Sheetpress, let it above the Coldpress. -- To unload a mold into the Coldpress, detach the cable, let it through and reattach it. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/ease-molds-handling/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/ease-molds-handling/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index faa32b955..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/ease-molds-handling/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### General tips - - To limit friction, we equipped the setup table with a plastic sheet (instead of a wooden surface). - -When doing any transfer, we recommend letting the starting table slightly above the arrival one to avoid any collision and lower friction (around 2cm) - -Having your workstations lined right on the cable’s axis eases transfers and avoid the molds from spinning when t is being pulled. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/easily-hands-free-connect-moulds-to-the-injector/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/easily-hands-free-connect-moulds-to-the-injector/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index abf1ff03c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/easily-hands-free-connect-moulds-to-the-injector/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Easily (hands-free) connect moulds to the injector - - -Screw-on moulds, clamping beds and other methods such as car jacks take time and more effort with your hands to connect moulds to the injector. This method using a motorcycle stand provides enough travel to clamp the mould against the injector and enables the power of your legs to be used keeping your hands free. -This method also enables heavier moulds or other accessories such as clamps to be lifted easily. Perhaps leading to reduced bolting for clamping the mould itself up! - -This method works for the conical style injection nozzles and chamfered style moulds. The machines we use are from PlasticPreneur in this guide. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/easily-hands-free-connect-moulds-to-the-injector/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/easily-hands-free-connect-moulds-to-the-injector/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2213a2f46..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/easily-hands-free-connect-moulds-to-the-injector/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### One video to explain it all... - - See attached a video explaining the process and parts required. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/easily-hands-free-connect-moulds-to-the-injector/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/easily-hands-free-connect-moulds-to-the-injector/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 903d0957f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/easily-hands-free-connect-moulds-to-the-injector/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Find yourself a bike stand - - We found our first one locally on Facebook Marketplace, you could try workshops that work on bikes - they might have some old ones. -Otherwise, the internet is your friend and you can find them pretty easily by searching "motorcycle stand" or "dirtbike stand". \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/easily-hands-free-connect-moulds-to-the-injector/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/easily-hands-free-connect-moulds-to-the-injector/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 3ee098f1b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/easily-hands-free-connect-moulds-to-the-injector/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### (if wall-mounted) Make it taller - - We used 4 pieces of 3x2 in each corner of the flat plate of the stand finished with a flat piece of wood on top to create a higher bed for the moulds to sit on. This could easily be made of metal and be differently shaped if required. -We find the gap in the middle of the pillars is useful for storing the 'height-raising blocks'. - -You might find you have enough height already or you can add wooden blocks to raise it up if required when using a floor-based injection moulder. - -One modification to this design would be to make the pillars shorter and then add a car jack on top. This alleviates the need to use different thickness wooden blocks depending on what mould you are using as you could use the car jack (with a plate on top) to change the general height you want to work out, then use the bike stand to get the extra travel you need to interface with the nozzle. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/easily-hands-free-connect-moulds-to-the-injector/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/easily-hands-free-connect-moulds-to-the-injector/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index f8d42c67b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/easily-hands-free-connect-moulds-to-the-injector/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Modify the lever system - - We found that out of the box this lever is quite high for your leg to use it multiple times in the day. If you're looking for a good workout, perhaps keep it as is. -For us, we wanted something easier to work with all day and we found simply flipping the arm that slots on works brilliantly. - -We drilled an extra hole in the rod that comes out of the base, and corresponding holes in the arm that slots on. This way, we could put and M8 bolt through them and clamp it on. -The extra bolt behind the arm is to stop it pivoting back too far so you can always step on it confidently without it slipping away! - -You could create a different system to this which would perhaps be more ergonomic or aesthetic, get creative! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/easily-hands-free-connect-moulds-to-the-injector/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/easily-hands-free-connect-moulds-to-the-injector/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index f498c3f9b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/easily-hands-free-connect-moulds-to-the-injector/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Watch the video - - Please watch the video as everything is explained much better there! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/el-tornillo-motor-injection-machine/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/el-tornillo-motor-injection-machine/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 3f7956005..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/el-tornillo-motor-injection-machine/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### El Tornillo Motor Injection Machine - - -This injection machine runs with a motor to save some labor and output more pressure to make more detailed products. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/el-tornillo-motor-injection-machine/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/el-tornillo-motor-injection-machine/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index bf678c197..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/el-tornillo-motor-injection-machine/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,19 +0,0 @@ -### Machine description - - Machine design: -Motor Injection Machine - -Machine size: -Heigth: 195CM; Wide: 50CM; Large: 50CM - -Machine cost: -In Colombia, Bill Of Material = COP$4,700,000 - -What makes your machine different to others: -This machine has a motor that will apply the pressure (versus a hand powered lever on older versions). It can be considered an upgrade to Precious Plastic Basic Injection Machine, available on the academy. - -Compatible with: -This machine is suitable for injection moulds. - -Type of plastic: -PP, HDPE, LDPE, PS \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/el-tornillo-motor-injection-machine/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/el-tornillo-motor-injection-machine/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index a99217a44..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/el-tornillo-motor-injection-machine/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11 +0,0 @@ -### Tools needed - - To build this machine, you will need: - --- Turning (machining on a lathe) --- Milling (machining on a mill) --- General metalworking (cutting, drilling) --- Welding --- Advanced assembly work (require specific tools, measurement instruments and tolerances knowledge to align and assemble) --- General electrical work (wiring safety switch, temperature controllers…) --- Motor electrical work (wiring motor, contactor, overload protection…) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/el-tornillo-motor-injection-machine/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/el-tornillo-motor-injection-machine/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index c10295afb..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/el-tornillo-motor-injection-machine/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,13 +0,0 @@ -### Build the machine! - - Watch this video to find out how to build this machine! - -0:00 Before you start -3:09 Motor Injection Machine intro -3:36 Chapter I: Build the frame -7:12 Chapter II: Build the mould area -8:25 Chapter III: Build the piston system -14:39 Chapter IV: Build the heating barrel -17:51 Chapter V: Electrical wiring -18:56 Chapter VI: Connect the motor -20:10 Chapter VII: Assembly \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/el-tornillo-motor-injection-machine/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/el-tornillo-motor-injection-machine/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 693a55490..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/el-tornillo-motor-injection-machine/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,16 +0,0 @@ -### Inject! - - How to use the machine -1. Turn on the machine and fill the barrel with plastic. -2. For the first injection, wait 25 minutes since the machine was turned on and filled. -3. Place the mould over the jack surface and press it against the nozzle tightly. -4. Turn on the motor to move down the piston, pushing the molten plastic inside the mold until the belt starts slipping in the pulley. -5. Turn off the motor and wait around 5 seconds maintaining the piston pressure. -6. Then turn the motor backwards to move the piston up -7. For continuous injections refill the barrel before removing the mold from the nozzle -8. Remove the mold by lowering the jack -9. Open the mold and take out the injected part -10. Close the mold and repeat the process from step 3 - -Recommendations -For this machine, you will need molds that have a connical nozzle connection or create an adapter to fit with you mold nozzle. This machine can create a lot of pressure so you will be able to inject products with very thin walls. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/el-tornillo-motor-injection-machine/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/el-tornillo-motor-injection-machine/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 02d745995..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/el-tornillo-motor-injection-machine/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Buy on the Bazar - - So this is how you make a Motor Injection Machine! - -If you cannot replicate the machine or simply want to buy some of the other machines or moulds I create, make sure to visit my Bazar shop 🤑 ! - -https://bazar.preciousplastic.com/machines/injection/injection-fully-built/motor-injection-machine/ \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/el-tornillo-motor-injection-machine/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/el-tornillo-motor-injection-machine/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 02d745995..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/el-tornillo-motor-injection-machine/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Buy on the Bazar - - So this is how you make a Motor Injection Machine! - -If you cannot replicate the machine or simply want to buy some of the other machines or moulds I create, make sure to visit my Bazar shop 🤑 ! - -https://bazar.preciousplastic.com/machines/injection/injection-fully-built/motor-injection-machine/ \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/extended-precious-plastic-font-/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/extended-precious-plastic-font-/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index d800a22de..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/extended-precious-plastic-font-/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Extended Precious Plastic Font - - -Modified precious plastic font including all the accents, special letters (ñ, ç, ó, ò, ô, ö,...) initially thought for spanish speaking countries but can easily be modified using https://www.glyphrstudio.com/ in case any other characters are missing. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/extended-precious-plastic-font-/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/extended-precious-plastic-font-/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2117fb1ef..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/extended-precious-plastic-font-/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Download - - Download the zip file to your device from this how to. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/extended-precious-plastic-font-/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/extended-precious-plastic-font-/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8fc5b69c1..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/extended-precious-plastic-font-/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Unzip files with winzip (any other will also do!) - - - Right-click on the folder you want to open. From the dropdown, you'll see the option 'Open with WinZip. ... - -- Alternatively, right-click on the "extract files option." Another dropdown menu will appear. - -- This will prompt you to choose the folder or destination you want to extract your zipped file. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/extended-precious-plastic-font-/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/extended-precious-plastic-font-/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index e6009f54e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/extended-precious-plastic-font-/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Install on your device - - Double click on the font file and follow instructions. - -ENJOY!!! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/extpro---12/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/extpro---12/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index a72cc84f6..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/extpro---12/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### EXTPRO - 1.2 - - -The Extruder PRO 1.2 is an iteration based on the Extruder Pro 1.0 -(https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/build/extrusionpro) - -This version of the Extruder PRO (1.2) solves 2 main problems: Safety and transportability. How? By following the CE safety requirements (European standards) and designing it to be easily disassembled. - -In this how-to you'll find the download files and the requirements to build and run this machine yourself :) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/extpro---12/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/extpro---12/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 10fb50250..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/extpro---12/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,13 +0,0 @@ -### Download package - - First off, check out the Grabcad link above to download all the files for this machine! - -In this folder you will find: -- 3D CAD (.step and .f3d) -- Lasercut files (.dxf) -- Blueprints (.pdf) -- Schematics -- BOM -.. and more :) - -You can see a preview of all the files (in case you are just curious 👀) and you'll also be able to download them for manufacturing 🔧 \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/extpro---12/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/extpro---12/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index c9d59dc54..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/extpro---12/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,21 +0,0 @@ -### Build - - These are the required skills and machinery you or your machine builder will need to have access to: - -- General metalworking (cutting, drilling) -- Welding -- Turning (machining on a lathe) -- Milling (machining on a mill) -- Laser cutting -- General electrical work (wiring safety switch, temperature controllers…) -- Motor electrical work (wiring motor, contactor, overload protection…) -- Programming (PID, VFD…) -- Advanced assembly work (require specific tools, measurement instruments and tolerances knowledge to align and assemble) -- Painting - -âš™ï¸ Machinery / specific tools needed: -- Grinder, chop saw, MIG/MAG or TIG, drill press -- Lathe and milling machine (can be manual) -- 5 axis lathe (for the screw only, it can also be found on the bazar) -- Laser cutting (this can easily be subcontracted around the world) -- Torque wrench and bearing mounting tool diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/extpro---12/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/extpro---12/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index f2d9d23e4..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/extpro---12/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,16 +0,0 @@ -### Run, Maintain, Create and Sell :) - - READY TO EXTRUDE? -To run and maintain this machine properly and safely, make sure to have a look at its MANUAL: -👉 https://workbench.grabcad.com/workbench/projects/gclFqc10H64oV0FSbs9r_laSRi6bkfuw-UcN3e_50Lf2sm#/space/gc4hrPwsLAnipCxVXwLTNv9WDkwt9QLA4V-ogeG36KPlRR/link/3452554 - -Start creating! -You'll be able to produce a large variety of products like beams, bricks or filament for 3D printing or weaving baskets etc. -Have a look at the How-to's to find inspiration for extrusion moulds or products: -👉 https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to?tags=DJN99ErXz8FHy035YdMO - -Buy and sell on the Bazar! -On the Precious Plastic Bazar you can buy moulds or machine parts for this machine - or sell your own creations and machines! -👉 bazar.preciousplastic.com - -Happy melting! 🤗 \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-a-bird-feeder/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-a-bird-feeder/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 555e934e4..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-a-bird-feeder/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Extrude a Bird Feeder - - -Bird feeder made with recycled plastic and Precious Plastic extruder. - -You can visit our blog and watch the video: -https://menorplastic.com/disenamos-el-mejor-comedero-para-pajaros-con-plastico-reciclado/ \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-a-bird-feeder/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-a-bird-feeder/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index c7449489b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-a-bird-feeder/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Select plastics - - Crush the plastic that we are going to use (preferably HDPE) and fill extruder. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-a-bird-feeder/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-a-bird-feeder/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 0f4c6b503..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-a-bird-feeder/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Pick some cardboard - - Use cardboard of toilet paper or similar. Put some cloth inside. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-a-bird-feeder/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-a-bird-feeder/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index b71c81ca9..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-a-bird-feeder/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Rolling plastic - - We will slowly roll the plastic on the cardboard. Change direction to make it resistant. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-a-bird-feeder/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-a-bird-feeder/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 58dac92cb..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-a-bird-feeder/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Demolding - - We let it cool and take out the cardboard slowly. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-a-bird-feeder/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-a-bird-feeder/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 30ce9c3be..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-a-bird-feeder/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Feed it - - Done! You have a bird feeder ready to use. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-a-stackable-tray/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-a-stackable-tray/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index a67071b56..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-a-stackable-tray/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Extrude a stackable tray - - -This mould was initially designed to make a clock with a Precious plastic Extruder, but can also provide an excellent base to produce stackable trays and stools. - -The mould is CNC machined from aluminium. We filled it with PP, PS and PEHD. This time, we use PP. - -Buy our products on the precious plastic bazar \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-a-stackable-tray/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-a-stackable-tray/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 1948355bf..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-a-stackable-tray/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Grease the mould - optionally - - Before the first use, you can grease the mould. We use silicon oil in order to prevent the adhesion of the final product to the mould. -Repeat the operation each time the mould starts to catch on, and remove the excess with a tissue. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-a-stackable-tray/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-a-stackable-tray/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index c4d2deef0..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-a-stackable-tray/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Serial of tests - - For each kind of plastic or deposit, you'll have to produce a serial of tests. - -For example : We currently need 850g of PP to fulfill the mould and obtain a perfect product. - -However, as the density and type of plastic used can change, you’ll have to test & learn the appropriate amount of plastic needed on your own. (See following pictures, trials with PS). \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-a-stackable-tray/step_10.md b/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-a-stackable-tray/step_10.md deleted file mode 100644 index 72df254d3..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-a-stackable-tray/step_10.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### And now... - - Repeat ! -With experience, you can produce a tray each 10 min. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-a-stackable-tray/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-a-stackable-tray/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 983678db0..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-a-stackable-tray/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Start your production - - Once the right amount of plastic is found, you can start your own production ! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-a-stackable-tray/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-a-stackable-tray/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 72fc5ed63..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-a-stackable-tray/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Close the mould - - Start with closing the empty mould. 4 screws (1 location out of 2) are sufficient. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-a-stackable-tray/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-a-stackable-tray/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index b16a77d65..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-a-stackable-tray/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Prepare your plastic - - Prepare the exact amount of plastic (850g PP for us) diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-a-stackable-tray/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-a-stackable-tray/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 72dc3e8a3..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-a-stackable-tray/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Connect the closed mould to the machine - - We used a lifter to hold the mould and then 2 screws to connect it to the nozzle of the extruder. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-a-stackable-tray/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-a-stackable-tray/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index 31e7c515e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-a-stackable-tray/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Time to extrude ! - - Always wear Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) and never leave the machine running unattended. -Start the extruder at maximum speed (60Hz). -Routinely keep an eye on your shredded plastic to check that the conveying isn’t blocked. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-a-stackable-tray/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-a-stackable-tray/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index 095d1bac6..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-a-stackable-tray/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Removing the mould - - Once all the plastic ran into the machine, wait a moment before switching off the motor and removing the mould. -While doing this, use thick welding gloves to remove the hot mould. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-a-stackable-tray/step_8.md b/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-a-stackable-tray/step_8.md deleted file mode 100644 index 94f39a36d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-a-stackable-tray/step_8.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Opening the mould - - It’s crucial to remove it while the plastic is still warm to prevent the plastic from shrinking and sticking to the male part of the mould. -Unscrew the mould. Then, we like to use thick and strong screwdrivers to prize open the mould. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-a-stackable-tray/step_9.md b/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-a-stackable-tray/step_9.md deleted file mode 100644 index 538d300af..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-a-stackable-tray/step_9.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Extract the piece - - It can be hard to release the product. We use a pliers to easily extract the piece. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-big-parts-with-help-of-the-sun/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-big-parts-with-help-of-the-sun/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index ea4ecdce9..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-big-parts-with-help-of-the-sun/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Extrude big parts with help of the sun - - -Here we'll show you how we made massive beams with a Precious Plastic extruder and solar heated moulds, as part of the research & development process to make the big parts for a recycled plastic sailing boat â›µï¸ - -It's not perfect, but includes a lot of learnings which we wanted to share! In case you want to copy it, make sure to have a proper look at all the documents and videos, and feel free to get in touch :) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-big-parts-with-help-of-the-sun/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-big-parts-with-help-of-the-sun/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 595f21745..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-big-parts-with-help-of-the-sun/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### INTRO - - The Flipflopi is a project in Kenya which uses a colourful recycled plastic sailboat to inspire and push solutions for plastic pollution. - -After we proofed the concept with our 9m prototype (here the how-to: https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/build-a-flipflopi-boat), we're now in the research & development process of manufacturing the massive parts for a 24m long recycled plastic dhow. - -These parts will require massive moulds which will take a long time to be filled up. To keep the plastic hot during that process and achieve evenly melted parts, we are working on ways to HEAT THE MOULDS. - -And as there is a lot of sun in Kenya, we are trying to do it with the sun. 🌞 \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-big-parts-with-help-of-the-sun/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-big-parts-with-help-of-the-sun/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index a2753eec9..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-big-parts-with-help-of-the-sun/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,15 +0,0 @@ -### OVERVIEW - - Here is an overview of the setup and requirements. - -This is what we worked with: - -- Precious Plastic Extrusion Pro (you can build it yourself or get it from the bazar) -- Solar module (designed and built in-house, see next step) -- Mould for a 15x20x120cm beam -- Connection piece to connect Extruder to the mould -- Big home made wrench -- Shredded plastic (we used HDPE/PP) -- Colza oil - -And, as this is a solar powered setup, we also need a space with good sun exposure, but ideally protected from wind. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-big-parts-with-help-of-the-sun/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-big-parts-with-help-of-the-sun/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8ce7d6c76..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-big-parts-with-help-of-the-sun/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,18 +0,0 @@ -### THE SOLAR MODULE - - Alright, so for the solar module: We customised it for this shape and process, so it's a bit specific, but we thought either way it's good to learn :) - -MATERIALS USED -- 30x30x3mm steel square tube -- wheels -- 120x240x0.6cm steel sheet -- 120x240x0.1cm steel sheet -- mirror foil (budget version) / Alanod reflective material -- nuts & bolts - -PROCESS -1. Frame: Cut, drill and weld the square tube and attach wheels so it's more mobile. -2. Parabolic mirror: Lasercut and assemble the parts out of the 0.6cm steel, fit everything together well and apply your reflective material. - -If you want to try out exactly this version, you can find the 3D-model and the cutting files in the download package at the beginning. -Also watch the Video (especially from 3:00 onwards) to get a better idea of how it looks and is assembled! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-big-parts-with-help-of-the-sun/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-big-parts-with-help-of-the-sun/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9b7a99c6b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-big-parts-with-help-of-the-sun/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,15 +0,0 @@ -### THE MOULD - - We extruded a 15x20x120cm beam, but made the solar module so you can exchange moulds of different sizes. - -You can find the lasercut files of this exact mould in the download package. - -To connect it to the extruder, you will also need a connection piece, which you can screw onto your extruder as well as on your mould. -See photo 2 how it should look like. - -In case you don't have a big enough wrench (like us) to turn that connection piece: We just quickly made one out of a thick steel sheet :) - -P.S.: We chose to lasercut the moulds because more precise, but if you're good at metal work you can obviously do it manually as well. - - ---> image of mould, of connection piece and of wrench \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-big-parts-with-help-of-the-sun/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-big-parts-with-help-of-the-sun/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index bffbdfc24..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-big-parts-with-help-of-the-sun/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### THE EXTRUDER - - As the parts are big, the plan eventually is to do this with an industrial extruder. -But as we had to work with limited resources, we decided to run first tests with the Precious Plastic Extruder Pro (made from Plastiki Rafiki in Nairobi). - -It's possible to use it, but not ideal as it simply comes with the limitation of speed and production volume, which just means that it takes longer to fill the mould. (The speed we could use here was 50 RPM) - -But we still wanted to show that it's possible because it's pretty cool actually :) - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-big-parts-with-help-of-the-sun/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-big-parts-with-help-of-the-sun/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2511f9747..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-big-parts-with-help-of-the-sun/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,18 +0,0 @@ -### MELT WITH THE SUN - - What we needed for one beam with this setup: -- a full sunny day -- space to change directions -- a lot of time -- about 35kg shredded plastic -- colza oil (or whatever you use to avoid the plastic from sticking to the mould) -- probably a sun hat - -Process: -- Oil the mould and attach it to the solar unit -- Connect the solar unit to the Extruder -- Position your setup so that the sunlight gets directed directly onto the mould -- Start extruding -- Change the position every hour or so, if you want to use the full potential of the sunlight - -With the rather small scale Extruder it took us 7h to fill the mould - so the process had to be planned well between sunrise and sunset. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-big-parts-with-help-of-the-sun/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-big-parts-with-help-of-the-sun/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index 16cbcc380..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-big-parts-with-help-of-the-sun/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,12 +0,0 @@ -### EXPLORE, IMPROVE & SHARE - - Now, this was the very beginning of this R&D, here some thoughts. - -- Solar heating works! -- It's not perfect (yet). -- You need a lot of sun. -- It saves energy and is fun. -- You can use the solar module for many more things: We made potatoes, pizza, chocolate cakes! - - -If you explore more plastic melting with solar, please get in touch, we would love to learn from your tests - and maybe you can even help us to make those big boat parts in Kenya :) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-different-textures/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-different-textures/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 79571541b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-different-textures/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Extrude different textures - - -We used the extruder to make a bench, shelving unit and beams. We already covered the qualities about the beam made from Polystyrene in a separate how to here: - -In this How to you will learn how we achieved the different textures for the shelf and bench. - - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-different-textures/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-different-textures/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4039ba451..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-different-textures/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Start by gathering your tools - - For this technique you will need -- your Extrusion machine -- a beam mould and the tools to attach it -- and shredded plastic - what else? :) - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-different-textures/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-different-textures/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2d3c4509c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-different-textures/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Stay safe - - When melting plastic, bad fumes can be released. In order to work safer, make sure to use a breathing mask with ABEK filters to prevent inhaling possibly toxic fumes. Special attention on plastics like PS (polystyrene) and PVC. Also when handling with heated elements and plastic we recommend to wear working gloves. - -Recommended safety equipment: -- ABEK mask -- gloves diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-different-textures/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-different-textures/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 634db5a7a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-different-textures/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Textured beam, material - - In step 3 - 6 we will talk you through how to embrace the natural textured effect you can achieve when using the extruder machine. We used HDPE / PP for a textured beam to make an outdoor bench, using the same process of extrusion, with the intention of making a textured pattern on the surface, which you can achieve easily with HDPE / PP. The choice of keeping the textured effect which is a natural occurrence from the extrusion process suits outdoor furniture well, therefore we used this to our advantage. - -So first things first: Start by shredding your material from medium to small shreds. The easiest way to measure how much material you will need is to test the first mould, and weigh the outcome thats the weight of the material that you will need each time. - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-different-textures/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-different-textures/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index a672c7e9d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-different-textures/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Cool mould - - Now you have your material ready you are nearly ready to extrude. Next turn on the extruder to ___ degrees. Before you start extruding obviously make sure your mould is on correctly. Once heated and mould on, your ready to extrude! Start by putting your material in one bit at a time, try to avoid putting too much in at once. Keep an eye out to make sure the hopper always has material in it. Your mould is better if it’s cooler to achieve the texture because it’s the rapid cooling that creates this effect. So depending on the room temperature, unless your mould is somewhere in the burning sun or sauna, it should be cool enough! You can cool it down by placing it into a water container. - -Pro Tip: make sure if your washing the material before putting it into the extruder, always dry it out first because the steam created when extruding can cause the material to sink and create hollow, weaker areas. - - - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-different-textures/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-different-textures/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9f3d8e307..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-different-textures/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Explore textures extrusion speed - - The speed can also affect the outcome: slower speed, deeper texture, faster less texture and the pattern is slightly different also. We have shown you an example of how we made the texture for the bubblegum bench, this is just one way of achieving this particular texture. In the pictures you can see different textures achieved by playing with the settings. -Make sure to check the related how to's to know more about the technique. - -Related links: -How to make a bench with beams 👉 https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/make-a-bench-with-beams - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-different-textures/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-different-textures/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 38cc43fcf..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-different-textures/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Smooth beam material - - Another one of our products has a different aesthetic to the outdoor bench: the indoor modular shelving unit made with PP (Polypropylene). In step 6 - 8 we will talk you through how to achieve a smooth finish with no extra sanding needed to be done to do this. Using recycled PP for extrusion has many advantages, it doesn’t shrink as much as HDPE in the mould and is also flexible, these qualities work well for the shape and texture achieved. - -Like the same as before prepare your material, shred, weigh and organise. And remember to make sure its dry! - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-different-textures/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-different-textures/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index f7196835a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-different-textures/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Process heated mould - - Now how to make it smooth… using a slightly higher temperature than firstly Coat your mould with silicone oil for quicker release before screwing it onto the end of the extruder. The key to a smooth beam is heating the mould, you can do this in many ways which you choose depends on the size of your mould. Using heating elements or preheating in an oven will work. Preheat the mould in the oven for 30 mins at over 100 degrees, then extrude using the same process as stage 4. If your mould is really long or narrow, you will need heating elements, or use a heat gun at the end to maintain the temperature as if your mould cools too quickly, you will experience a change in texture on the surface, or mould may deform due to rapid material cooling. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-different-textures/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-different-textures/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index ba4c8539d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-different-textures/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Explore the possibilities! - - So now you have had an insight from our experience how to achieve these two textures, but keep in mind that the beauty of using recycled plastic is that the outcome of each product is unique in its own way each product will come out differently. It really takes some time and testing to get used to the sensitivities of these methods so be sure to test and get stuck in! - -We also would advise to keep documenting your results. If you altered the temperature, speed, material or the size of your mould. All these variables when changed around will affect the outcome. Labelling your material outcomes and collating a material library can also really help to have a reference when designing. - - -Get experimenting! - - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-into-a-closed-mould/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-into-a-closed-mould/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4284f7a7a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-into-a-closed-mould/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Extrude into a closed mould - - -The extrusion machine provides continuous flow which means with the right mould we can create much larger objects than possible with the injection, while also allowing us to create products faster. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-into-a-closed-mould/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-into-a-closed-mould/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 3b7a8e94d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-into-a-closed-mould/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Getting ready - - To follow this How-To you will need an extrusion machine, a closed mould (like this brick mould) and lots of shredded plastic. - -Related links: -Make the brick mould 👉 https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/make-extruded-plastic-bricks -More about the Extrusion Pro machine 👉 https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/build/extrusionpro \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-into-a-closed-mould/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-into-a-closed-mould/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index cf73312d5..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-into-a-closed-mould/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Prepare the mould - - Make sure the internal of your mould is free of rust and remains a smooth surface by lightly coating it with oil or grease (Silicone Oil is perfect). For a smooth surface, it also helps a lot to preheat the mould (especially the nozzle part) before extruding plastic into it. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-into-a-closed-mould/step_10.md b/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-into-a-closed-mould/step_10.md deleted file mode 100644 index ef39c10ca..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-into-a-closed-mould/step_10.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Cooling - - Because we removed the product while it was hot, we need to ensure that the product doesn't warp after being released from the mould. To do this we place it on a jig that restricts the shrinkage. For several bricks, we made several jigs, because it takes time for the bricks to cool down. We keep distance between the jigs, so air can flow between the hot bricks, which helps cooling. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-into-a-closed-mould/step_11.md b/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-into-a-closed-mould/step_11.md deleted file mode 100644 index d3ac7eaf3..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-into-a-closed-mould/step_11.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Repeat! - - Want to make more? Good, now all you need to do is repeat steps 5 to 9! Obviously the process can vary with different moulds and we would love to hear and learn from your experiences of this process. - -What next? -Check this link and learn how to "Build brick structures": -👉 https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/build-brick-structures \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-into-a-closed-mould/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-into-a-closed-mould/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index fda3ed257..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-into-a-closed-mould/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Join the mould - - Closed moulds will come in two or more parts. In this example, the brick mould uses two parts. Clamp firmly together, we use locking pliers for this mould, which are quick to release while also acting as a good safety to release excess pressure. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-into-a-closed-mould/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-into-a-closed-mould/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2a7d7cba0..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-into-a-closed-mould/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Understanding extruding times - - Depending on the specs of your extrusion machine and the type of mould the time to fill it up will vary. For the V4 brick mould on the V4 extrusion, it takes exactly 4min. However 20 seconds either side can result in underfilled mould or even a burst one. So it’s very important to get this timing right! - -One way to figure this out: Extrude at the speed you intend to work with, without a mould for 10sec, cutting the plastic and then extruding for a further 30sec collecting and weighing the result. - -Make sure to run the test again if you decided to change the size of plastic granules, or the type of plastic you are extruding as it will affect your extrusion speed. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-into-a-closed-mould/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-into-a-closed-mould/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 0eee732b8..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-into-a-closed-mould/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Calculation Example - - Our result was 0.4kg (multiply by 2 to get feed rate per min) so 0.8kg/min but because this was unpressurised we need to reduce the result by about 25%. 0.6kg/min meaning on the first extrusion test we shouldn’t let it run for longer than 2.5min before checking its progress and repeating the process adding 10second intervals until we find the exact right time. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-into-a-closed-mould/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-into-a-closed-mould/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 381f0c930..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-into-a-closed-mould/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Measuring extruder pressure - - We also invested in a pressure sensor that screwed onto the end of our barrel. This gave us accurate readings on if the pressure built up too high and kept us safe. These are not cheap (2,800euro) but worth the money if you intend on making lots of products. - - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-into-a-closed-mould/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-into-a-closed-mould/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index 99bcf3ab1..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-into-a-closed-mould/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Extruding - - After connecting your mould to the extrusion ensure that you stay clear of the nozzle while the machine is running. Always wear Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) and never leave the machine running unattended. Routinely checking your mould for signs of over filling and blockage. While also making sure the extruder has a constant batch of plastic granules. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-into-a-closed-mould/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-into-a-closed-mould/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index 10cbecc7b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-into-a-closed-mould/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Removing the mould - - Once the mould is full/set time has passed, wait a moment before removing the mould to allow any build up in pressure to defuse within the barrel. 15-30sec. This will protect you from being potentially sprayed with hot plastic. While doing this remember your PPE and use thick welding gloves to remove the hot mould. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-into-a-closed-mould/step_8.md b/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-into-a-closed-mould/step_8.md deleted file mode 100644 index 5e3080721..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-into-a-closed-mould/step_8.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Cooling the mould - - Depending on your mould and product we recommend placing the mould in a bath of water to cool the plastic allowing quicker removal. Depending on your mould you may want to leave it in water for a while. However, in this case, it’s crucial to remove it while the plastic is still warm to prevent the plastic from shrinking and sticking to the male part of the mould. So for hollow objects, be aware of this shrinkage! - -The water will get very warm over time so its best to change it regularly or use a large body of water. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-into-a-closed-mould/step_9.md b/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-into-a-closed-mould/step_9.md deleted file mode 100644 index 61f114e32..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/extrude-into-a-closed-mould/step_9.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Opening the mould - - We like to use thick and strong screwdrivers to prize open the mould. With the brick, we need two slowly leveraging it open at the same time on either side. We also created a rig made of wood to rest the mould on to allow us to hammer through the brick from the top, which forces it away from the two parts. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/faceshield-mould/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/faceshield-mould/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index d1d85dc6e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/faceshield-mould/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11 +0,0 @@ -### Faceshield mould - - -With the current, global situation of COVID-19 we face many challenges. - - -One challenge is the short pass and access to safety equipment. - -With our machines in place the batch production of products like a Face Shield can start immediately. - -With this Mould you are able to produce around 120 Shields per day, with one person and one machine. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/faceshield-mould/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/faceshield-mould/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index bdead9d25..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/faceshield-mould/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Order the laser cut parts - - In the Downloadkit you can find all the DXF Files for lasercutting the parts. - -I used 6mm steel for the top, bottom and one of the insert plate. -The other insert plate is made out of 5mm steel so that you can make the holes in the foil with an office punch. - -If you are planing to make a bigger production, there is also a CNC Mould attached. -U can skip to step 4, if u are using the CNC Mould. -For the CNC Mould you can use 20 - 25mm aluminium. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/faceshield-mould/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/faceshield-mould/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 6a829c04a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/faceshield-mould/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Cut the thread - - Cut M6 threads in the 5mm holes on the insert plates. - -You also can drill up the two 5,8mm holes for the metal pin with a H6 reamer in the injection Plate. - - -Then you can drill up the holes in the other insert plate so 6.1 mm - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/faceshield-mould/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/faceshield-mould/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index efa266fe0..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/faceshield-mould/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Assemble - - Mount the plates with M6x12mm screws. -On the Injection insert plate you have to sand away the screws, since the plate is a little bit thinner. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/faceshield-mould/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/faceshield-mould/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index a8f32963d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/faceshield-mould/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Mount the Metal Pins - - Depending on the pins you get you have to cut them to be shorter than 11mm. -We use H6x20mm pins and cut them to length. - -Punch in the metal pins with a hammer, ore glue them in place if you don´t have a reamer. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/faceshield-mould/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/faceshield-mould/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index c922010d5..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/faceshield-mould/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Drill the bevel - - Since we have a spring clamp system on our plasticpreneur machines, we just have to make a bevel to the mould. - -If you are workingg with precious plastic noozle system u have to weld on an adapter. -Feel free to change my design if needed. - -U can use a flat screwdriver to seperate the mould again. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/faceshield-mould/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/faceshield-mould/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 6def5c00e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/faceshield-mould/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,15 +0,0 @@ -### Finish it - - We allways like to sandblust our moulds to have them nice and clean. - -If you are producting the shields for a medical use, make sure, your mould is perfectly clean! - -All you need now are some M6x30 screws an some nuts to screw the mould together an you are yeady to go. - - - - - - -CNC Mould from Industriedesigner Silke Grimmelmann und Adrian Heymann. - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/faceshield-mould/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/faceshield-mould/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9b4f33d55..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/faceshield-mould/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,13 +0,0 @@ -### Cut the Faceshield - - There is also a cutting plan for the shiled in the download kit. - -We used 0,2 to 0,5mm PET Foil. -2 liter PET bottles also work great. - -You can use a laser or a scissors to cut it. - -The holes are designt to can be made with an office puncher. - - -To mount the shield on your face you can use a rubber or an buttonhole tape. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/faceshield-mould/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/faceshield-mould/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9de9e80a7..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/faceshield-mould/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Spread the Vision - - As Part of the Precious Plastic Community we love to share our ideas. - -Feel free to share, to explain people the process. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/faceshield-mould/step_8.md b/resources/howtos-oa/faceshield-mould/step_8.md deleted file mode 100644 index d20de7e10..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/faceshield-mould/step_8.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,14 +0,0 @@ -### Fight the Virus - - If you don´t have acces to a lasercutter or a cnc machine, you also can buy the mould in the bazar. -https://bazar.preciousplastic.com/moulds/injection-moulds/faceshield-mould-plasticpreneur-clone/ -https://bazar.preciousplastic.com/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=312 - -If you have any problem with the design, feel free to contact me. -Email: florian@doingcircular.com - -Send us pictures from your finished products on Instagram ;) -https://www.instagram.com/plasticpreneur/ - - -STAY HOME & STAY SAFE! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/faceshield-with-extrusion-die-and-a4-clear-sheet/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/faceshield-with-extrusion-die-and-a4-clear-sheet/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index c7b555ba1..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/faceshield-with-extrusion-die-and-a4-clear-sheet/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Faceshield with extrusion die and A4 clear sheet - - -We make a face shield from basic elements and the extrusion machine. Face shields are critically lacking in many countries affected by COVID-19. You need up to 22 per patient. We need a DIY way of making these and making these fast.. -Remember face shields are only a complement to googles and masks and are meant to reduce the viral charge. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/faceshield-with-extrusion-die-and-a4-clear-sheet/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/faceshield-with-extrusion-die-and-a4-clear-sheet/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 1abd0d290..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/faceshield-with-extrusion-die-and-a4-clear-sheet/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Make a nozzle to attach to the extruder. - - The nozzle needs to have a relatively large entry and a tapering end. -The best is to have some bars to cool down a bit the plastic and funnel it towards the exit. -To activate the nozzle we heat it up with hot air gun -The outside plates are only 1mm apart -You can also do it without nozzle but it is even more complicated to control the thickness and elasticity of the future band -https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BTiQqPFE9vs \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/faceshield-with-extrusion-die-and-a4-clear-sheet/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/faceshield-with-extrusion-die-and-a4-clear-sheet/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8bdc0b603..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/faceshield-with-extrusion-die-and-a4-clear-sheet/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Extrude the stripe - - This is a delicate part and needs improvement as you need to pull the plastic out so that the thickness and flow is even. Make your motor rotate at the slowest speed possible. -Because of changes in the thickness and rate of cooling your stripe might twist -We heat it up back with the hot air gun and pass it inside our metal mangle. This will straighten the band. Don#t expect miracles, you will keep the concave shape. Although in the end it makes no difference with our design -Based on the work on the Badger shield -https://www.delve.com/assets/documents/OPEN-SOURCE-FACE-SHIELD-DRAWING-v1.PDF -We can see that ideally the contact with the head should be 13"/ 33 cm. Cut to length -Here we have used HDPE from ocean plastic we regularly recover on the local beaches. We recommend HDPE as it is easier to source and also low temperature to melt. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/faceshield-with-extrusion-die-and-a4-clear-sheet/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/faceshield-with-extrusion-die-and-a4-clear-sheet/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 3cd3f12a3..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/faceshield-with-extrusion-die-and-a4-clear-sheet/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Punch holes for the attachment - - The best for the attachment is an elastic band for clothes but we didn't have any so made with a rope like in the example of https://menorplastic.com/tutorial-para-fabricarte-tu-protector-facial-casero/ -however to avoid making knots and for an easy attachment you can simply punch a set of holes -A square wood chisel size 10 is perfect for that. -You have to make 3 sets of 2 holes and one set of 3 holes at one end (could be two if you use rope) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/faceshield-with-extrusion-die-and-a4-clear-sheet/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/faceshield-with-extrusion-die-and-a4-clear-sheet/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2b1306b54..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/faceshield-with-extrusion-die-and-a4-clear-sheet/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### lace the plastic band - - Follow the right order for comfort, according to drawing -The 2-hole design allows to tighten at any size of head quickly. -The third hole design is to pass the elastic band in a very secure latch. -You can also make a similar knot as in the third figure for easier adjustment. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/faceshield-with-extrusion-die-and-a4-clear-sheet/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/faceshield-with-extrusion-die-and-a4-clear-sheet/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index b0029654a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/faceshield-with-extrusion-die-and-a4-clear-sheet/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11 +0,0 @@ -### Staple the screen - - Try to center the screen with your attachment then staple from one end. -3 staples suffice one on each end and one in the middle, going progressively from one side to the other. -Keep the staples open until the screen is really tight on the plastic stripe you extruded. You can repunch the screen to tighten if needed. -The plastic sheets can be sourced from overhead or like here from a lamination machine where we stuck two ends together. - -The shield is only to be used in extreme cases where no other alternatives are possible. However it takes on most of the designs of approved PPE with a minimum of resource - -You can get more details and updates if you follow this link. We cannot update both websites at the same times at the moment. Sorry for the inconvenience -https://www.plasticatbay.org/2020/03/29/plasticbay-faceshield-design \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/figurine-farm-animals/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/figurine-farm-animals/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index c108723f2..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/figurine-farm-animals/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Figurine Farm Animals - - -My How-To will help explain how to make small little animal figurines that are fun for kids to play with and enjoy. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/figurine-farm-animals/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/figurine-farm-animals/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index d98f130d8..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/figurine-farm-animals/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Creating a silhouette on Illustrator - - The first step is to find a silhouette of an animal on Google and upload it to Illustrator. Adjust the legs on your animals so that the bottom of the feet all line up. This will help the animal stand when it is molded. Then copy and paste the adjusted animal so that you have three versions of your animal. Using the erase tool on your first animal, erase the head, tail, front, and back leg. On your second animal, erase the head, tail, and legs that you didn't erase on your first animal, keeping the legs that you erased from the first animal. Finally, on your third animal, erase both legs and the bottom part of the animal. This will be the middle piece of your animal once it is molded. Additionally, when you place your animal outline in a square so it can be set, on the third animal, make sure you add additional cuts so the piece can pull apart. Then cut out your details in acrylic using a laser cutter and inject your plastic. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/figurine-farm-animals/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/figurine-farm-animals/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 0170d1088..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/figurine-farm-animals/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Injection the plastic - - The next step is to transfer your Illustrator pdf into Glowforge. Make sure that your animals fit within the frame of the cut-out, and then cut out your animals. I recommend cutting the animals out of cardboard a few times to test out your design and using hot glue to stick the cardboard pieces together. This way, you can make sure that your animal works and stands before you use plastic and acrylic to make your design, so you don't waste any extra material. Once you are happy with your cardboard design, put acrylic into the laser cutting machine and then cut your animals and their molds out! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/figurine-farm-animals/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/figurine-farm-animals/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index e90857dc1..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/figurine-farm-animals/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Injecting your animal, and pulling it apart - - Once you inject your plastic into your mold, allow it to cool down, and then pull it apart to expose the animal in the middle. Then make sure your animal can stand; if not, go back into Illustrator and make sure the feet are level or the correct feet were removed. Suppose this is your first time doing this. In that case, I recommend making cardboard versions of the animals and just hot gluing the pieces together to ensure your design works correctly before injecting plastic into it. Then your design is complete, and you can enjoy the animals or gift them to a friend. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/flowerpot-mould/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/flowerpot-mould/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9ecb655c8..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/flowerpot-mould/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Flowerpot Mould - - -Here we share some files to make your own flowerpots with the injection machine. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/flowerpot-mould/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/flowerpot-mould/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index df465bddc..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/flowerpot-mould/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Make your own mould or get it over at the Bazar! - - You find the CAD files linked above to make your own. - -Or get them made for you over at the Bazar. - -https://bazar.preciousplastic.com/moulds/injection-moulds/beads-mould-clone/ \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/flowerpot-mould/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/flowerpot-mould/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7a1e8801b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/flowerpot-mould/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Tricks for the mould part ejection - - Removing the parts can be sometimes a bit hard. There are two ways to ease up the process a lot. - - -1.) Pressurized Air - drill a very small hole (<1mm) into the inside piece of the mould followed by a larger hole from the other side. -After you injected a piece use a blow gun of an air compressor to pop out the parts easily. If done right the plastic won't flow beyond the small hole. - - -2.) Add a bolt instead of pressurized air to the inside piece of the mould and cut a thread inside. Then after injecting you can screw in the bolt and the parts will fall out easily. This way you stay mobile for workshops out in the open ;) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/flowerpot-mould/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/flowerpot-mould/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index e99e88919..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/flowerpot-mould/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Plant some nice flowers - - Altough small you can get some nice assemblies of flowers or cactus in them :) - -Inspired by the design of El Tornillo (https://tinyurl.com/ElTornilloTaller) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/from-waste-to-value/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/from-waste-to-value/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index d5950e01a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/from-waste-to-value/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,13 +0,0 @@ -### From Waste to Value - - -We focus on Biodegradable and Non-Bio Degradable Waste materials into the process to become a good quality of products. -Eco Fiber Board 4x8x1 sizes -Eco Concrete Blocks -Eco Concrete Board -Eco Decorative Board -Eco Decorative Blocks -Eco Free Cast Product -Eco Furniture Products -Anti Soil Erosion products -Bio Gas Plant \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/from-waste-to-value/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/from-waste-to-value/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index a2430cc27..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/from-waste-to-value/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Eco fiber board - - From Bio Degradable Waste Materials 4x8x1 sizes this is the solution to the problem of our environment \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/from-waste-to-value/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/from-waste-to-value/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8c418e8e9..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/from-waste-to-value/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Eco Concrete Blocks - - From the Non-Bio Degradable Waste materials into the process of machine to become a good quality of products \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/from-waste-to-value/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/from-waste-to-value/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8904bc84f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/from-waste-to-value/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Bio Gas Plant - - This Bio Gas Plant can generate a 300 tanks daily and many more thousands of tanks of LPG Gas. -It can create a opportunity to the people who are in jobless \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/fuel-from-recycled-pet-bottles/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/fuel-from-recycled-pet-bottles/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index b9237d9a1..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/fuel-from-recycled-pet-bottles/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Fuel from recycled PET bottles - - -Readapting an alcohol distiller, shredded PET water bottles can be converted into gasoline-like fuel, by pyrolysis of PET: calcium hydroxide mixture. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/fuel-from-recycled-pet-bottles/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/fuel-from-recycled-pet-bottles/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index a137392f9..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/fuel-from-recycled-pet-bottles/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Pyrolysis of PET water bottles - - This process require a basic chemical knowledge. Pyrolysis is a well-known strategy for waste treatment: plastic, biomass, motor oil, waste cooking oil, exhausted tyres are processed in this way since long time. Pyrolysis is a simple process where plastic is decomposed back into a crude-oil like product. - -A 11 L steel container is filled with 500 g shredded PET water bottles and 1.5 kg of calcium hydroxide, sealed and heated on a gas burner for 2-3 h circa. The oil collected is washed with water, then filtered many times through cotton. The product is crude pyrolytic oil. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/fuel-from-recycled-pet-bottles/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/fuel-from-recycled-pet-bottles/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 1679d9847..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/fuel-from-recycled-pet-bottles/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Distillation of crude pyrolitic oil - - The crude oil obtained is distilled simply. Fraction below 75 Celsius is discarded, the 78 - 80 Celsius recovered: this is mainly pure benzene, an high value hydrocarbon, commonly used as solvent. - -The remaining can be distilled more to get other fractions or used as gasoline directly into electrical generators. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/geodesic-dome-mould/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/geodesic-dome-mould/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 5f745097d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/geodesic-dome-mould/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Geodesic dome mould - - -The Geodesic Dome is a lightweight structure using a minimum of materials. It is constructed by triangular elements, which are structurally rigid and splitting the stress evenly. Usually, it is used for greenhouses or temporary structures. - -Step 1-6: Prepare your components (1-2 days) -Step 7-11: Assemble the structure (1-2 hours) diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/geodesic-dome-mould/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/geodesic-dome-mould/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 19d59b3f6..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/geodesic-dome-mould/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,14 +0,0 @@ -### Design your structure - - -First of all, decide how big your dome should be and calculate the required sizes of the elements. Consider that the diameter of the structure equals double of its height. - -There are several tools on the internet to help calculating the size of each individual beam. This is the one we used: -http://www.domerama.com/calculators/2v-geodesic-dome-calculator/ -You can put in your dome size and it will calculate the required beam lengths for you. - -In any case, we have to shorten the lengths a bit so that they work with our joints. -Short beams: - 64.5mm -Long beams: - 73.4mm - -In this example, we are making a 2.5m high dome (5m diameter). diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/geodesic-dome-mould/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/geodesic-dome-mould/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 56524b093..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/geodesic-dome-mould/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Make the moulds for your joints - - To build a geodesic dome, we will need 6 pieces of 5-way joints and 20 pieces of 6-way joints. Those pieces will be injected, so we first have to make the required moulds for the injection machine. Take the 3D model from the download kit and cnc-mill it yourself or send it to a specialist to mill it for you. - -Then drill the holes for the injection point and for the bolts to close the mould. - -👉 https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/create/injection-moulds \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/geodesic-dome-mould/step_10.md b/resources/howtos-oa/geodesic-dome-mould/step_10.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4ec847cc7..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/geodesic-dome-mould/step_10.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Assemble (Part 3) - - For the third level, connect 5x 6-way-joints to the second level. Use longer beams for connecting to a 6-way-joint and short beams for connecting to a 5-way. - -For the fourth and last level, simply connect the remaining 5-way-joint with the 5 short beams. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/geodesic-dome-mould/step_11.md b/resources/howtos-oa/geodesic-dome-mould/step_11.md deleted file mode 100644 index c91e0d6d3..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/geodesic-dome-mould/step_11.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Explore the possibilities! - - Your Geodesic Dome is done! - -Feel free to play around with this structure like removing some beams to create an entrance, or trying out other variations of the construction. - -You could also use other materials (like recycled plastic) for your beams or add surfaces in the triangle spaces. - -Have fun exploring! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/geodesic-dome-mould/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/geodesic-dome-mould/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index e8a13b85e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/geodesic-dome-mould/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Prepare your plastic - - Make sure you have your material ready before starting to inject. For the joints, both HDPE and PP work for the dome due to their flexibility and strength. However, PP is recommended as it is easier to inject. PS and PET are not recommended as they are brittle. Consider that the weight of one joint is about 130g, so you will need a bit more than 3.5kg for all pieces. Use around 150g PP each time to prevent lack of pressure and loss from leak out. - -Tip: Try to use finely shredded plastic to reach the injection machine’s full capacity. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/geodesic-dome-mould/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/geodesic-dome-mould/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 399c68623..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/geodesic-dome-mould/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,13 +0,0 @@ -### Inject the joints - - Ready to inject! Set the temperature of the tube to 240°C and the nozzle to 230°C. The following workflow will take 12-15 mins per piece: -1 - Insert plastic to the hopper -2 - Heat up the plastic (8-9 min) -3 - Attach the mould -4 - Inject plastic -5 - Take the mould out of the machine - -Repeat this process for each joint. Ongoing, while you're waiting for one mould to cool down, you can prepare the other mould for the next injection process. - -If needed, here are some tips for injecting: -👉 https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/work-with-the-injection-machine diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/geodesic-dome-mould/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/geodesic-dome-mould/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 007aa21aa..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/geodesic-dome-mould/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Finish your joints - - To finish the joinery, cut the extra material generated by the injection channel. Use a knife to clean the edges if needed. Then drill the M6 holes according to the marks on the joinery parts. - -P.S. Always keep the plastic flakes for future use during the process! diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/geodesic-dome-mould/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/geodesic-dome-mould/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4e8a8bbc9..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/geodesic-dome-mould/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Prepare the beams - - Take your beams (we used 20mm x 30mm) and cut them to the required lengths and amounts. -For our 2.5 m high dome, we need: -A: 1302 mm x 30 -B: 1472 mm x 35 -If you decided for another dome size, take the dimensions you’ve calculated. - -Once you have all your beams cut into the right size, drill M6 holes at both ends of all the beams. Place the hole in the middle of the width and 20 mm from the edge. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/geodesic-dome-mould/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/geodesic-dome-mould/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index 53b9bd122..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/geodesic-dome-mould/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Get ready for assembly - - Now that you have all the components you can build your structure. - -Gather the following tools and metal parts for for assembling: -- 2x 10 mm spanner -- 130x Bolts - M6 x 40 mm -- 130x Nuts - M6 -- 260x Washers -- Hand Drill with M6 Drill Bit \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/geodesic-dome-mould/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/geodesic-dome-mould/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index daf66bc47..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/geodesic-dome-mould/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Assemble (Concept) - - Finally it's time to assemble! Basically, the dome is made out of 6 pentagons which are connected with their edges. The raised plate in the 6-way-joint is connecting to the 5-way-joint, the rest is connecting to another 6-way piece. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/geodesic-dome-mould/step_8.md b/resources/howtos-oa/geodesic-dome-mould/step_8.md deleted file mode 100644 index 14a1640b4..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/geodesic-dome-mould/step_8.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Assemble (Part 1) - - There are various ways to assemble, so feel free to try out your own. -In this example, we'll start with the bottom level of the structure. Connect 10x 6-way-joints with 10x long beams into a decagon. Pay attention to keep all joints in the right direction. - -6-way-joints: pink -5-way-joints: blue diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/geodesic-dome-mould/step_9.md b/resources/howtos-oa/geodesic-dome-mould/step_9.md deleted file mode 100644 index ba6057980..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/geodesic-dome-mould/step_9.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Assemble (Part 2) - - For the second level, connect 5x 5-way-joinery with 2x short beams and connect 5x 6-way-joints with 2x long beams to the first level. The 5-way-joints and 6-way-joints should be alternating. Then, connect all the joints on the second level with shorter beams. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/get-a-business-collecting/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/get-a-business-collecting/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 49068f863..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/get-a-business-collecting/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Get a business collecting - - -This is an example of how you can reach out to businesses and explain to them why, how and what you can do for them as a Collection Point. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/get-a-business-collecting/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/get-a-business-collecting/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index d331186b0..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/get-a-business-collecting/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Get to know your surroundings - - It’s time that the businesses in your surroundings, get to know you as a Collection Point. Researching in your local industry and how you are able to contact the businesses, would be a great start. If there is a Precious plastic community builder in the area you could ask him/her for any help. - -Another option can be that you organize a meetup this makes you able to reach out to different businesses at the same time. You can have a look at the how to - organize a precious plastic meetup to make this happen. - -Tip: Adding all the businesses to one list will give you a good overview of what they are + their contact details. We made an example of how this could look like, you can find it in the download kit. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/get-a-business-collecting/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/get-a-business-collecting/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index c8f141b18..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/get-a-business-collecting/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Prepare your meeting - - During your first meeting, you will briefly tell the business what, why and how you are running a Collection Point. Keep in mind that there is a possibility that the people that you will have the meeting with, don’t know anything about plastic pollution or precious plastic. Bringing something to visualize the Precious Plastic Universe can help you explain the story better. - -You are able to find a presentation in the download kit. This will help you give a clear explanation of what a Collection Point is, does and how it fits into the precious plastic universe. You can add something related to the company that you're going to, this will make them feel more related to the plastic problem. - -Tip: Practice the presentation a couple of times to feel more confident during your meeting. - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/get-a-business-collecting/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/get-a-business-collecting/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 1a8f38104..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/get-a-business-collecting/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Start contacting - - It’s time to start contacting businesses, go through the list of local businesses and see how you are able to contact them, this can be for example by mail, social media, phone or by a visit on location and asking for the manager. - -Visiting the businesses and asking for the manager does take more time but it makes a big difference if they have seen you already once. Sometimes you are lucky and the manager is available straight away. Make sure that you are prepared for this and take your chance. - -Tip: Start with small businesses to get used to the way of communicating before you go to the big ones. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/get-a-business-collecting/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/get-a-business-collecting/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 637b66cc2..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/get-a-business-collecting/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Reach out - - When there is a possibility to arrange a meeting, you are now able to go to one of these businesses and present your collection point to them. This is an exciting moment. Keep in mind that you want them to start collecting plastic for you. - -A nice way to check if the business has plastic for you to recycle is to have a look together through their collected plastic (plastic packaging) from a week. Most businesses need the same materials weekly which also means the same packaging. If you have the time, explain why you can collect some plastic and why some not. - -Tip: Do not only tell your story but also listen well to their experiences with their plastic waste and their needs. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/get-a-business-collecting/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/get-a-business-collecting/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 89dd3a396..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/get-a-business-collecting/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Agree on the conditions - - After the meeting, you will give the business time to think about the collaboration. After a couple of days, you can arrange a new meeting or visit them again to sign an agreement/little paper that says, what you are going to pick up and when. This is nice from both sides to know what to expect. You can download and example template above. But feel free to change and edit to your local needs. - -Tip: Find the right timing to get back in touch. Don’t wait too long but also don’t be too impatient. - -Idea: You can give the business a sticker/sign to show everyone that they are part of the precious plastic universe. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/get-a-business-collecting/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/get-a-business-collecting/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8b0f57b27..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/get-a-business-collecting/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Start collecting - - Finally, it’s time to take care of your weekly/monthly pick up. Do a little check, when you receiving the collected plastic. If everything is collected in the way you did agree on (the right types, clean and label-free) you can take it to your Collection Point. The way of transporting the collected plastic depends on what suits your local environment. When everything works smoothly you can start collecting from multiple businesses and grow your collection network. - -Tip: Ask every now and then if everything is still fine and if you can do something to make your collaboration better. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/get-funding/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/get-funding/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9337a5d91..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/get-funding/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Get funding - - -Funding is the part where most of us has struggled with. But once you get over this mountain, you soon can start recycling! Let's learn about ways of funding, and how to make your funding successful! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/get-funding/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/get-funding/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2e1248dad..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/get-funding/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11 +0,0 @@ -### Introduce yourself - - Say hello locally in nearby community point, or internationally in our Discord channel. - -Listen to people who successfully started a recycling business. - -If they started their business in a condition(type, location, budget)like you, they might be more helpful than this how-to:) - -This how-to is very general, so if you find another method, Share back! - -https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/universe/contribute \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/get-funding/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/get-funding/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 17a9078ab..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/get-funding/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Fill out the Action Plan - - The Action Plan is about boiling down your business idea into the most important components, so you can see all of the moving parts interacting together. A common issue we see within our community are people trying to do too many things at once - this tool will help you prioritize! - -You can find the Action Plan in the Download Kit or learn more in the Academy -👉 http://tiny.cc/business-actionplan \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/get-funding/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/get-funding/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 3cf5d5e46..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/get-funding/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Fill out the Calculator - - This financial forecasting tool isn’t an exact science but gives you a starting point for how much money you need to start, how many products and services you need to sell per month in order to be profitable, and how long it’s going to take to pay back your initial investment. It works with any kind of business-related to Precious Plastic! - -You can find the Workspace Calculator in the Download Kit or learn more in the Academy: -👉 http://tiny.cc/workspace-calculator \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/get-funding/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/get-funding/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 5eac52cb6..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/get-funding/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Fill out the Business Plan - - The Business Plan template has two purposes: firstly, to clarify the idea for your and for your team, and secondly to communicate this idea clearly to potential funding and/or partners. This can be useful for grant applications, preparation for a bank loan or perhaps to take to an investor. Even if you are planning to get funding online, you can attach this document to convince more. - -For more explanation check out the video in the Academy: -👉 http://tiny.cc/business-plan-calculator \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/get-funding/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/get-funding/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index cdaf8a976..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/get-funding/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Choose ways of funding - - This is the part it can vary a lot in your settings. Talk with community point or online on Discord to choose. - -We recommend you to Google some funding tips. - -Never hesitate to try, because that try might be successful! - -Also, consider giving products as a pledge for funding. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/get-funding/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/get-funding/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index fd3da6bda..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/get-funding/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Get started! - - You are almost there! - -Buy machines, moulds, or machines to make machines, and start recycling or support recycling! - -Don't forget to share back with us, on Discord or on Forum, so that we can improve! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/glue-hdpe--pp-with-2-component-adhesives/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/glue-hdpe--pp-with-2-component-adhesives/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index d498061f1..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/glue-hdpe--pp-with-2-component-adhesives/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Glue HDPE & PP with 2-component adhesives - - -2-component adhesives can offer a strong bonding and they are easy to use. On the other hand they are extremely wasteful since they usually come in single-use packaging. - -We generally don't recommend glueing parts together as it will make the disassembly harder at the end of the product’s life. So check out other joining techniques first! -If this is still needed, here some guidelines. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/glue-hdpe--pp-with-2-component-adhesives/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/glue-hdpe--pp-with-2-component-adhesives/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 76f122638..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/glue-hdpe--pp-with-2-component-adhesives/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Stay safe - - While handling with 2-component adhesives it’s safe to use an ABEK mask and safety glasses in order to prevent nose, eyes and throat from irritations. Also gloves are needed to avoid any direct contact with the adhesives. Preferably it’s better to work in an open and well ventilated space to avoid gases to accumulate. - -Recommended safety equipment: -- ABEK mask -- safety glasses -- gloves \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/glue-hdpe--pp-with-2-component-adhesives/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/glue-hdpe--pp-with-2-component-adhesives/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index a077d47a3..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/glue-hdpe--pp-with-2-component-adhesives/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Which is the best Adhesive? - - First off: Using 2-component adhesives is very wasteful and its use should be avoided as much as possible. Please first consider to use screws, snapping unions, or even change the design or the material. - -But we want to show which adhesive offers the best performance in case you see no other option. - -Among the world of 2-component adhesives there are several types: epoxy, methyl methacrylate, polyurethane... We found that methacrylate adhesives work best for bonding plastic. These can especially be useful when trying to bond PP and HDPE which are generally difficult to bond with other solutions. - -Of course the composition of the adhesive will change depending on the brand. Based on our experiences we recommend to use the Permabond Structural Adhesive TA4605. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/glue-hdpe--pp-with-2-component-adhesives/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/glue-hdpe--pp-with-2-component-adhesives/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 0f0f4868f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/glue-hdpe--pp-with-2-component-adhesives/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Clean surface - - Before applying the adhesive make sure to clean the surfaces with a non-aggressive product like IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol) cleaner and a Scotch Brite or similar to remove any dirt or release agent left from the mould. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/glue-hdpe--pp-with-2-component-adhesives/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/glue-hdpe--pp-with-2-component-adhesives/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 5e44dacbc..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/glue-hdpe--pp-with-2-component-adhesives/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Apply the adhesive - - First we have to make the mixture. Usually this adhesive comes with a single-use mixer nozzle, but it can also be made by hand, with a flat stick. - -Once the mixture is homogeneous we can apply that to the surface we previously cleaned and place carefully the other piece on top. The advantage of this adhesive is that you have time to move your pieces to their precise position, since it takes 5-10 min to start working. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/glue-hdpe--pp-with-2-component-adhesives/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/glue-hdpe--pp-with-2-component-adhesives/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 0f4cf090e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/glue-hdpe--pp-with-2-component-adhesives/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Apply pressure - - Once the piece is in the right position, we have to apply pressure (preferably with a clamp) and leave it 24h till it’s fully curated (at 23ºC). If the temperature is lower it will take longer to curate, with each -8ºC the curating time doubles. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/glue-hdpe--pp-with-2-component-adhesives/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/glue-hdpe--pp-with-2-component-adhesives/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 33a1d013b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/glue-hdpe--pp-with-2-component-adhesives/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Recommended applications - - This method is quite specific and expensive to get. We suggest to only use this adhesive when a really strong bonding is needed between same materials like PP or HDPE. - -Oh, and better try to avoid mixing materials with this or other permanent solutions to keep your materials as recyclable as possible. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/glue-with-a-heat-gun-hdpe--pp/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/glue-with-a-heat-gun-hdpe--pp/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 20d654abb..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/glue-with-a-heat-gun-hdpe--pp/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Glue with a heat gun (HDPE & PP) - - -Hot melt adhesives don’t offer the same performance as 2-components-adhesives, but they provide an accessible, quick and wasteless solution for those applications with no need for a high performance bonding. - -We generally don't recommend glueing parts together as it will make the disassembly harder at the end of the product’s life. So check out other joining techniques first! If this is still needed, here some guidelines. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/glue-with-a-heat-gun-hdpe--pp/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/glue-with-a-heat-gun-hdpe--pp/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index ef15fd10b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/glue-with-a-heat-gun-hdpe--pp/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Stay safe - - While handling a glue gun, basically we are melting glue, therefore gloves are needed in order to avoid any direct contact with the hot glue. Also, it’s better to work in an open and well ventilated space to avoid gases to accumulate. And even though it’s not obligatory it’s always recommendable to wear a mask. - -Safety recommendations: -- gloves -- ventilated space, mask diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/glue-with-a-heat-gun-hdpe--pp/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/glue-with-a-heat-gun-hdpe--pp/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index e2c0e2852..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/glue-with-a-heat-gun-hdpe--pp/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Choose the right glue sticks - - Through testing we found that hot melt adhesives based on ethylene vinyl acetate copolymer (yellowish) work best for PP and HDPE. Also hot melt adhesives based on acylate (white) could work, but only for HDPE. - -Of course the composition of the glue will vary depending on the brand. In our research the following BÃœHNEN hot melts worked well: -- A21325.1 (for PP) -- A20364.1 and J2169 (for HDPE) diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/glue-with-a-heat-gun-hdpe--pp/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/glue-with-a-heat-gun-hdpe--pp/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 57ba69a7f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/glue-with-a-heat-gun-hdpe--pp/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Prepare the surfaces - - It’s known that hot melts don’t offer a very strong bonding, so to maximize the contact area and improve the grip we recommend to scratch the surfaces where the joinery will be made. - -Before applying the hot melt make sure to clean the surfaces you are going to glue together with a non-aggressive product like IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol) cleaner and a Scotch Brite or similar to remove any dirt or release agent left from the mould. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/glue-with-a-heat-gun-hdpe--pp/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/glue-with-a-heat-gun-hdpe--pp/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index d95ee285f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/glue-with-a-heat-gun-hdpe--pp/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Apply the hot melt - - Put the stick into the glue gun and wait until the machine is hot enough to melt it. Make sure you have all your pieces handy. Apply the hot melt on the first piece, then directly place the other piece on top and apply pressure (clamping preferred). - -You want to glue the pieces together while the glue is still hot (< 25s). So make sure you have everything ready because you have very little time for error correction. Once you put them together, in a few seconds both pieces will get glued. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/glue-with-a-heat-gun-hdpe--pp/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/glue-with-a-heat-gun-hdpe--pp/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 098725810..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/glue-with-a-heat-gun-hdpe--pp/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Recommended applications - - Hot melts are generally accessible and easy to apply, but they offer a relatively weak bonding. But other than being a downside they can actually be a nice technique for designs which require a more temporary fix or assembly. - -(Another very functional application: This adhesive can help making other joinery methods watertight by sealing the surface.) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/handling-molds-easily/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/handling-molds-easily/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2070f44cc..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/handling-molds-easily/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Handling molds easily - - -In this tutorial, we will explain how to facilitate the handling of the molds, using a winch to pull them. -This modification, relatively simple to carry out allows : -- an accurate and straight move -- only one people diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/handling-molds-easily/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/handling-molds-easily/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 195d453cd..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/handling-molds-easily/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### 1 - Setting the winch - - The manual winch (Einhell TC-WI500) has been wall mounted behind the Coldpress, 30cm above the prepairing table. -Please notice the alignment of our 3 stations, and that the prepairing table and the Coldpress are equiped with wheels and brakes. - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/handling-molds-easily/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/handling-molds-easily/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 3f998f5a0..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/handling-molds-easily/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### 2- Connecting the winch - - We resized the sheet metal to 120x125 cm to host the hanging system. - -1- We drilled the sheets metal to host a buckle made with a steel cable - -2- The cable tip of the winch has also been buckled - -3- Notches were engraved in a metal bar, to match with the 3 buckled cables. - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/handling-molds-easily/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/handling-molds-easily/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index fca1cea16..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/handling-molds-easily/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### 3- Handling (1) - - 1- Moving the mold from the preparation table to the sheetpress - -Unroll the winch from the wall unto the preparation table, passing through the coldpress and the sheetpress. Use the metal bar to connect the buckles of the winch and the metal sheet ones. - -Make the preparation table roll next to the sheetpress - -Wind the winch to pull the mold in the sheetpress. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/handling-molds-easily/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/handling-molds-easily/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2a5df4fe4..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/handling-molds-easily/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### 3- Handling (2) - - 2- Moving the mold from the sheetpress to the coldpress : - -As soon as the heating cycle is over, make the coldpress roll next to the sheetpress, then wind the winch again to unload the mold onto the coldpress. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/handling-molds-easily/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/handling-molds-easily/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 5d8add4af..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/handling-molds-easily/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### 4- Tips and tricks - - To avoid rubbing and to facilitate the mold transferring : - -the preparation table has been coated with a polypropylene plate (instead of wood). - -When loading the mold between 2 tables, we suggest to raise the 1st table 2 cm higher than the second. - -keep the stations aligned with the winch cable to avoid rotating the mold when pulling. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/handplane-laser-cut-mould-with-inserts-/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/handplane-laser-cut-mould-with-inserts-/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index f55c18f0e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/handplane-laser-cut-mould-with-inserts-/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Handplane laser cut mould with inserts - - -Here you'll learn how to make a more complex laser cut mould, in order to avoid post production processes like bending, drilling and cutting. Now we are going to make a handplane for bodysurfing, but you can apply this technique to any other product! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/handplane-laser-cut-mould-with-inserts-/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/handplane-laser-cut-mould-with-inserts-/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2e658fad8..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/handplane-laser-cut-mould-with-inserts-/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Laser cut - - Download the laser cut files and send them to you local laser cutting company. Make sure to ask if they offer bending services to see if they can do it for you straight away or if you have to take your laser cut plates to bend somewhere else. In the download file, you'll also find the bending angle and line. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/handplane-laser-cut-mould-with-inserts-/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/handplane-laser-cut-mould-with-inserts-/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index a260c271b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/handplane-laser-cut-mould-with-inserts-/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Bending - - After you receive your plates already bent, they will not fit perfectly because the middle plate has a different thickness from the top and bottom ones, therefore they have different bending radius, but that's not a problem! -Place the 3 plates together and with the help of some M8 bolts and the very stong 4 mm washers we previously laser cut, use them to align the plates together, making sure the chamfered corners are all on the same side. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/handplane-laser-cut-mould-with-inserts-/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/handplane-laser-cut-mould-with-inserts-/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 37215b92c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/handplane-laser-cut-mould-with-inserts-/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Clamping - - On the picture N°1 you'll see how the plates will look like, so to make them fit together we will need to use a vise, like you can see on the picture N°2. You'll need to clamp it as hard as you can, until you see the 3 plates fitting together as you can see on the picture N°3. Repeat the same on the other side. After this, tighten up all the bolts as hard as you can, this will help to bend back any deformation that might have happened during the clamping. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/handplane-laser-cut-mould-with-inserts-/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/handplane-laser-cut-mould-with-inserts-/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7e406e9cc..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/handplane-laser-cut-mould-with-inserts-/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Inserts - - We have 3 types of inserts in this mould in order to avoid post production processes: -1) Coin insert: This one is made in order to have a space to place a Precious Plastic stamp to mark the plastic type we will use for this product -2) Slots inserts: These inserts will avoid the need of a milling machine or dremel in order to create the slots for the handplane's straps. With this inserts, after injecting, you'll only have to remove the excess material with a cutter. -3) Bolt inserts: The use of botls as inserts will avoid drilling after injecting in order to be able to include the elastic that's going to secure your wrist with the handplane. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/handplane-laser-cut-mould-with-inserts-/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/handplane-laser-cut-mould-with-inserts-/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 1fa1f127b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/handplane-laser-cut-mould-with-inserts-/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Coin and Slots inserts - - For the coin and slots inserts, first we need to cut the inserts from the set. Generally laser cut companies can't cut such small pieces individually because they easily get lost, so we do it like this and cut it ourselves. We also included more than what we need, just in case something goes wrong when cutting them! -After cutting you need to sand carefully the connections between the pieces. Remember to test in the cavities while sanding, so you don't sand more than what's needed. Generally if the piece fits tight, it's easier to adjust the depth and then welding. -You might need to file down a bit the hole for the stamp, to make sure it fits perfectly, they are not all EXACTLY the same. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/handplane-laser-cut-mould-with-inserts-/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/handplane-laser-cut-mould-with-inserts-/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index c72ddea88..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/handplane-laser-cut-mould-with-inserts-/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Bolt inserts - - You will receive the plate with two 3 mm holes, so you'll need to drill through with a 3.3 mm drill bit to be able to make a M4 thread. Now the mould its ready to include the bolts inserts in it, make sure you have x2 M4 bolts to be able to put them in place before injecting. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/handplane-laser-cut-mould-with-inserts-/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/handplane-laser-cut-mould-with-inserts-/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9f4129909..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/handplane-laser-cut-mould-with-inserts-/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Finish the mould - - After you weld all the inserts in place and make the thread for the bolts (Tip: make sure the thickness of the slots inserts it's less than 4 mm) now you can proceed to weld the nozzle. We kept the nozzle entrance small in order to pop out the handplane from the mould easier. If you drill this hole bigger, it'll get much harder to take it out of the mould and probably the finishing is not going to be as good. -If you want to have a better surface finishing of your product, we recommend you to polish the plates in order to make it smooth and shiny! The smoother the mould is, the smoother your product will be! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/handplane-laser-cut-mould-with-inserts-/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/handplane-laser-cut-mould-with-inserts-/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index f32ed4843..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/handplane-laser-cut-mould-with-inserts-/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Inject and finish - - Before closing the mould, insert the stamp of the plastic type you are going to use in the cavity. Then close the mould with the M8 bolts using the laser cut washers. Make sure you tighten the bolts as hard as you can. Try to keep the mould with the nozzle side up while doing this, so that the stamp you placed in the cavity won’t move or fall inside the mould. -Now take the M4 bolts and screw them from the bottom. This you have to do it just by hand, screw it until you cannot go any further. -After injecting, the first thing you have to do (before opening the mould) is to unscrew the M4 bolts (VERY IMPORTANT), otherwise you wont be able to open the mould. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/handplane-laser-cut-mould-with-inserts-/step_8.md b/resources/howtos-oa/handplane-laser-cut-mould-with-inserts-/step_8.md deleted file mode 100644 index 16669f7de..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/handplane-laser-cut-mould-with-inserts-/step_8.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Test it! - - Finish the handplane by cleaning the slots with a cutter and then add the straps and elastic (If the plastic is too hard, heat up the cutter with a lighter). -Now you are ready to go to the beach with your friends and test your brand new recycled handplane! Have fun :D \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/hands-free-door-opener-mould/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/hands-free-door-opener-mould/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index e5ad65dcd..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/hands-free-door-opener-mould/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Hands-Free Door Opener Mould - - -With this How-to you can make your mould to inject a "hands free" door handle - to help stop the spread of COVID-19! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/hands-free-door-opener-mould/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/hands-free-door-opener-mould/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 52c603664..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/hands-free-door-opener-mould/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Download and mill the moulds - - Attached you can find the CNC-files I created based on the 3D files provided by Materialise. -(https://www.materialise.com/en/hands-free-door-opener/technical-information) - -Download the files, CNC cut your aluminium mould and add required screws to close the mould. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/hands-free-door-opener-mould/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/hands-free-door-opener-mould/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 743f7190d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/hands-free-door-opener-mould/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11 +0,0 @@ -### Inject and assemble - - Once you injected your parts with your injection machine, you can assemble the product. - -You'll need: -- The two injected parts -- 2x M4 screws and Nuts -- 1x bike tube for in between - -You can find more instructions for assembly here: -https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=163&v=95aPYlXShTY&feature=emb_logo \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/hands-free-door-opener-mould/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/hands-free-door-opener-mould/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index a2920bb95..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/hands-free-door-opener-mould/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Use it! - - Do less harm, use your arm :) - -Oh, and If you prefer to buy the mould, you can order it from me on the bazar: -https://bazar.preciousplastic.com/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=281 - - - - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/hands-free-door-opener/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/hands-free-door-opener/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8cbd828fe..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/hands-free-door-opener/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Hands-Free Door Opener - - -With this How-to you can make your mould to inject a "hands free" door handle - to help stop the spread of COVID-19! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/hands-free-door-opener/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/hands-free-door-opener/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 52c603664..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/hands-free-door-opener/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Download and mill the moulds - - Attached you can find the CNC-files I created based on the 3D files provided by Materialise. -(https://www.materialise.com/en/hands-free-door-opener/technical-information) - -Download the files, CNC cut your aluminium mould and add required screws to close the mould. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/hands-free-door-opener/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/hands-free-door-opener/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 743f7190d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/hands-free-door-opener/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11 +0,0 @@ -### Inject and assemble - - Once you injected your parts with your injection machine, you can assemble the product. - -You'll need: -- The two injected parts -- 2x M4 screws and Nuts -- 1x bike tube for in between - -You can find more instructions for assembly here: -https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=163&v=95aPYlXShTY&feature=emb_logo \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/hands-free-door-opener/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/hands-free-door-opener/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index a2920bb95..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/hands-free-door-opener/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Use it! - - Do less harm, use your arm :) - -Oh, and If you prefer to buy the mould, you can order it from me on the bazar: -https://bazar.preciousplastic.com/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=281 - - - - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/hdpe-dowel-nuts-for-break-down-furniture/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/hdpe-dowel-nuts-for-break-down-furniture/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index bacea06ad..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/hdpe-dowel-nuts-for-break-down-furniture/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### HDPE Dowel Nuts for Break Down Furniture - - -I use an induction stovetop to heat up a steel pipe and cast HDPE plastic to make threaded inserts (the Threaded Beavers). I enjoy making furniture out of pallet wood and dowel nuts are helpful to help create knock down joints. They don't make them larger than 1/2" in diameter. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/hdpe-dowel-nuts-for-break-down-furniture/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/hdpe-dowel-nuts-for-break-down-furniture/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index b7a1d910b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/hdpe-dowel-nuts-for-break-down-furniture/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,24 +0,0 @@ -### Obtain tools and materials - - Tools to melt plastic: - -Amazon induction plate: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-1800W-Portabl... -Cast Iron Pan: https://www.amazon.com/Lodge-Griddle-Pre-seasoned... -or stainless steel plate adapter: https://www.amazon.com/9-45inch-Diffuser-Stainles... -Propane torch: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Bernzomatic-WK2301-Pr... -Scrap conduit (1" Inner diameter) - -Plastic Materials: -Milk jugs -construction hard hats -bottle caps. - -Safety tools: -3M respirator -Safety glasses -Silicon Gloves: https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Grip-Silicone-Prof... -Wood for bench: - -Laminated pallet wood for the legs -half lapped pallet wood for the backrest -3/4" pallet plywood \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/hdpe-dowel-nuts-for-break-down-furniture/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/hdpe-dowel-nuts-for-break-down-furniture/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index e3ca26bcc..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/hdpe-dowel-nuts-for-break-down-furniture/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Cut up or shred the HDPE - - I'm just getting started in recycling HDPE so I'm manually cutting up plastic with a scissors and some power tools. I think I may buy a cheap blender to shred the plastic into smaller pieces. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/hdpe-dowel-nuts-for-break-down-furniture/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/hdpe-dowel-nuts-for-break-down-furniture/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 435b87a44..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/hdpe-dowel-nuts-for-break-down-furniture/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Melt HDPE - - Melt the plastic using a ferrous/magnetic pan on an induction top. I set my temperature to 400 degrees F and it seems to melt quickly. - -I had a scrap cylinder of steel which I was also able to heat up on the induction plate and it helped with rolling out the plastic into a sheet. - -See the video link here at ~3:00 mark where I start melting plastic. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/hdpe-dowel-nuts-for-break-down-furniture/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/hdpe-dowel-nuts-for-break-down-furniture/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7a2c65658..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/hdpe-dowel-nuts-for-break-down-furniture/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### CAST HDPE - - I heated up a conduit/steel pipe (1" interior diameter) placed it on a hot piece of metal, then I slowly added the melted HDPE into the pipe. I used a spare bolt to shove more plastic in and would heat up the pipe if I thought it cooled to much. - -After filling the pipe, I use a clamp and some 1" diameter plywood in the conduit to really get high compression in the conduit. I'm trying to keep the density of this HDPE as high as possible. - -After clamping, the HDPE will tend to shrink so I'll tighten the clamps as the plastic & pipe cools. - -Adding smaller pieces and compressing down frequently seem to get the best results but I haven't mastered this process yet. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/hdpe-dowel-nuts-for-break-down-furniture/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/hdpe-dowel-nuts-for-break-down-furniture/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 339422f17..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/hdpe-dowel-nuts-for-break-down-furniture/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Cut, Drill, & Tap the HDPE - - After the HDPE cools inside the conduit/pipe, I found it to be easy to remove the casted plastic. I ended up cutting into 1" long cylinder with a handsaw then cut the cylinder in half. - -I drilled a hole into the center, and tapped the hole using a 3/8" x 16 N.C. tap and followed the tap with the actual bolt I used. - -To make the bolt easier to enter the hole, I also used a countersink at the bolt entrance holes. - -One of the surprising discoveries to me was how strong the thread held. Even using my impact driver, I didn't seem to strip the thread. I also installed some bolts adding a nut on the flat side of the Threaded Beaver and I'll check the differences as the temperature changes. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/hdpe-dowel-nuts-for-break-down-furniture/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/hdpe-dowel-nuts-for-break-down-furniture/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 924ef78e3..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/hdpe-dowel-nuts-for-break-down-furniture/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Use the Threaded Beavers - - Since I was in prototype mode, I measured roughly where the threaded beaver was going to go and used a 1" forstener bit to make a 1" diameter mortise into the stretcher piece of wood. Using a 7/16" longer drill bit, I drilled into the end grain roughly in the center of the stretcher. - -For 2x wood getting connected to the stretcher piece of wood, I countersunk a hole for the hex head bolt and washer to sit nicely in. This is not necessary but I thought it make this bench look a little bit higher end. - -This bench structure I made was really just the bones of my bench, I cut some plywood for the seat and back rest which covers the structure. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/hdpe-dowel-nuts-for-break-down-furniture/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/hdpe-dowel-nuts-for-break-down-furniture/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index 854341d2d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/hdpe-dowel-nuts-for-break-down-furniture/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Help me! - - Please give me suggestions and comments as I'm just starting to build with recycled HDPE. I'd like to focus on using cheap or readily available tools like an induction top to process the material. - -Thank you for reading and I hope that you can learn something from my current process. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/heat-shield-for-injection-and-extrusion-machines/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/heat-shield-for-injection-and-extrusion-machines/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index f2f94735c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/heat-shield-for-injection-and-extrusion-machines/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Heat Shield for Injection and Extrusion Machines - - -Increase the safety and appearance of your injection and extrusion machine \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/heat-shield-for-injection-and-extrusion-machines/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/heat-shield-for-injection-and-extrusion-machines/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 83576be68..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/heat-shield-for-injection-and-extrusion-machines/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Build your heat shield - - The YouTube video shows it better. As everyone's machines are different measurements, this is not included here, but should be self explanatory in the video. - -We used round stainless steel tubing at 4 inch size. However you can also use square tube. As long as your tube is long enough to fit over the heater bands and insulation without direct contact. - -For insulation we use 5 meters of muffler insulation. - -We secured the tubing with m6 bolts and tapped the tubing. You can use other size bolt or even machine screws. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/hello-world/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/hello-world/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 68e14424c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/hello-world/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Hello World - - -Testing \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/hello-world/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/hello-world/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 48f14ec0a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/hello-world/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Test - - Test \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/host-an-educational-carnival-game-booth-xxx/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/host-an-educational-carnival-game-booth-xxx/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index def4725d0..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/host-an-educational-carnival-game-booth-xxx/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Host an Educational Carnival Game Booth xxx - - -For many years, our charity organization has been taking part in local Expos, Events, and Faires using a "Carnival Game Booth" concept, rather than trying to SELL our handcrafted wares. Our first educational game was in 2014. It folks which items were recyclable, or not, in accordance with our local municipality's recycling system. We used a simple ring-toss and gave out our crafts as prizes! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/host-an-educational-carnival-game-booth-xxx/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/host-an-educational-carnival-game-booth-xxx/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index cb1de50c4..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/host-an-educational-carnival-game-booth-xxx/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Create a Fun Recycling Ed Game - - Think of one or more safe fun carnival games and adapt the items and themes in the game to teach a little something about the plastics rescue or recycling process. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/host-an-educational-carnival-game-booth-xxx/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/host-an-educational-carnival-game-booth-xxx/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index cb0714b07..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/host-an-educational-carnival-game-booth-xxx/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Request an Event Booth - - Rather than pay a high "vendor" booth fee, and then try to compete with other artisans at selling your token-priced items at craft fairs or street markets; consider asking if your Educational Ecology Game can be in the recreational, educational, environmental, or community section of your local expo, fair, or farmer's market. Some event coordinators MIGHT offer you a free or reduced booth fee rate, simply because of the "entertainment" or "educational" value of your game for the event's visiting attendees. Attendees can be encouraged to bring their clean recyclables to the event, as an option for earning a "free play" and winning a tiny token-prize or sticker. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/host-an-educational-carnival-game-booth-xxx/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/host-an-educational-carnival-game-booth-xxx/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 27ffa56ee..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/host-an-educational-carnival-game-booth-xxx/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Set Your Game-Play Price-Point - - Donors or Buyers who want to play for more than a tiny token or sticker can be given the option to pay/donate to play until they win. - Choose a game-play price-point that matches the cost and value of the medium and larger prizes you will provide. Make sure that EVERYONE who donates or pays to play your game wins a medium or larger-sized prize of appropriate value for what they paid or donated. - -You can also set easier or harder targets; for the chance at winning premium prizes too. OR; you can allow folks to play again and then trade back in multiple smaller prizes - for one larger prize of the cumulative price/value - before they walk away from your game! - -Everyone is a winner! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/host-an-educational-carnival-game-booth/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/host-an-educational-carnival-game-booth/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index f0f9af299..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/host-an-educational-carnival-game-booth/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Host an Educational Carnival Game Booth - - -For many years, our charity organization has been taking part in local Expos, Events, and Faires using a "Carnival Game Booth" concept, rather than trying to SELL our handcrafted wares. Our first educational game was in 2014. It folks which items were recyclable, or not, in accordance with our local municipality's recycling system. We used a simple ring-toss and gave out our crafts as prizes! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/host-an-educational-carnival-game-booth/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/host-an-educational-carnival-game-booth/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index cb1de50c4..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/host-an-educational-carnival-game-booth/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Create a Fun Recycling Ed Game - - Think of one or more safe fun carnival games and adapt the items and themes in the game to teach a little something about the plastics rescue or recycling process. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/host-an-educational-carnival-game-booth/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/host-an-educational-carnival-game-booth/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index cb0714b07..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/host-an-educational-carnival-game-booth/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Request an Event Booth - - Rather than pay a high "vendor" booth fee, and then try to compete with other artisans at selling your token-priced items at craft fairs or street markets; consider asking if your Educational Ecology Game can be in the recreational, educational, environmental, or community section of your local expo, fair, or farmer's market. Some event coordinators MIGHT offer you a free or reduced booth fee rate, simply because of the "entertainment" or "educational" value of your game for the event's visiting attendees. Attendees can be encouraged to bring their clean recyclables to the event, as an option for earning a "free play" and winning a tiny token-prize or sticker. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/host-an-educational-carnival-game-booth/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/host-an-educational-carnival-game-booth/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 27ffa56ee..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/host-an-educational-carnival-game-booth/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Set Your Game-Play Price-Point - - Donors or Buyers who want to play for more than a tiny token or sticker can be given the option to pay/donate to play until they win. - Choose a game-play price-point that matches the cost and value of the medium and larger prizes you will provide. Make sure that EVERYONE who donates or pays to play your game wins a medium or larger-sized prize of appropriate value for what they paid or donated. - -You can also set easier or harder targets; for the chance at winning premium prizes too. OR; you can allow folks to play again and then trade back in multiple smaller prizes - for one larger prize of the cumulative price/value - before they walk away from your game! - -Everyone is a winner! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/how-it-all-started/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/how-it-all-started/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4e38eb299..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/how-it-all-started/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### How it all started - - -SparkLiv has been scoping Plastic Recycling for last few months. After lots of discussions, research and hard work we have finally build our products and launched it in the market. Sharing our journey through this video. -Since we are based in Northern part of India, this video is in Hindi language with English subtitles. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/how-it-all-started/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/how-it-all-started/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2391655a2..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/how-it-all-started/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Create Workspace, spreading awareness, collecting - - How it all started. Our journey started with Precious Plastic starter kits. And today we have already launched the products in the markets. -Happy to work for the health of the Planet \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/how-it-all-started/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/how-it-all-started/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index e555ec21d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/how-it-all-started/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Created drop off, Sorted plastic waste, extruded - - We sorted all the waste collected and extruded into beams \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/how-it-all-started/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/how-it-all-started/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 015a782b0..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/how-it-all-started/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Built furniture and home decor items - - Created a website and social media accounts. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-build-mini-press-/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-build-mini-press-/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 6f3703371..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-build-mini-press-/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### How to build mini press - - -Tutorial how to build mini press for compression moulding. -For making this simple machine you need welding machine, access to laser cutting machine, drilling machine and basic assembly skills. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-build-mini-press-/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-build-mini-press-/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 0d7821afd..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-build-mini-press-/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Video tutorial - - All steps are mentioned in video tutorial. -Click the yellow download button above to go to the direct link to open source blueprints and CAD files. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-build-mini-press-/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-build-mini-press-/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index ce7e8c511..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-build-mini-press-/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,14 +0,0 @@ -### What can you make with press? - - With this standard size frame it is possible to press sheets with area 37x37cm. - -Max. recommended mould height is 80mm - -I have already produced: - -- sheets 37x37cm, thickness 3, 5, 20mm -- coasters -- clock -- clipboard -- sheets which was latter used for CNC cutting - design of lamp, animal models. - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-build-mini-press-/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-build-mini-press-/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7646e61b3..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-build-mini-press-/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Is it possible to buy it? Yes - - Full machine: -https://bazar.preciousplastic.com/machines/sheetpress/sheet-press-kits/mini-press/ - - -Laser cutted parts for pressing plates: -https://bazar.preciousplastic.com/machines/sheetpress/sheet-press-parts/laser-cutted-parts-for-mini-press/ diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-build-mini-press-/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-build-mini-press-/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 6ea7271ee..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-build-mini-press-/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### More information - - Next upgrades and tips for compression moulding you can find on Youtube, or Instagram: -https://linktr.ee/plastmakers - -I hope it can help you with plastic recycling. - -Tom \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-create-and-mount-protection-masks/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-create-and-mount-protection-masks/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 289b84990..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-create-and-mount-protection-masks/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### How to create and mount protection masks - - -This is the process of making protection masks using an injection machine and some basic materials as elastic bands and transparent plastic sheets. -You can find all the documentation here: -https://plasticprecioslasafor.org/opcovid19en \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-create-and-mount-protection-masks/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-create-and-mount-protection-masks/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 12212a752..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-create-and-mount-protection-masks/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Download mold file and mill it - - You can download the files here: https://plasticprecioslasafor.org/opcovid19en - -Then you should find a company with CNC machines who can mill the mold for you. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-create-and-mount-protection-masks/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-create-and-mount-protection-masks/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 6c740c329..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-create-and-mount-protection-masks/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Start injecting your masks! - - Once you receive the mold you can start injecting, you can use hdpe or pp \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-create-and-mount-protection-masks/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-create-and-mount-protection-masks/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 608e1d556..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-create-and-mount-protection-masks/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Make the holes to the screen and attach it to the mask - - Follow the guide to make the holes in your A4 sized sheet. -They should be made at 3.1 cm, 10.2 cm, 19.3 cm and 26.4 cm; and between 1,5 to 2cm wide. We recommend using a vertical drill to make the holes to all your sheets much faster. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-create-and-mount-protection-masks/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-create-and-mount-protection-masks/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index bad312b4c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-create-and-mount-protection-masks/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### add the eslastic band - - The last step is adding the eslastic band to your mask, it needs to be tight enough to hold the mask in place but not to tight to hurt when wearing it for long hours. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-create-sheets-with-filament-spools/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-create-sheets-with-filament-spools/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index bb7ab13c5..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-create-sheets-with-filament-spools/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### How to create sheets with filament spools - - -While 3D printing itself may not generate waste, one of the by-products of production are the spools. After years of accumulating spools, we've successfully recycled a key waste product from 3D printing that used to end up in the trash. For each sheet, 34 spools are given new life, making them suitable for use in various applications, including furniture, product design and other amazing ideas. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-create-sheets-with-filament-spools/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-create-sheets-with-filament-spools/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9a52ccc9f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-create-sheets-with-filament-spools/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Shredding coils - - The first step consists of dividing the coils by material type, usually PP and PS, and shredding them. In this case with an industrial shredder, which achieves a uniform texture of approximately 5 mm per particle. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-create-sheets-with-filament-spools/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-create-sheets-with-filament-spools/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index a13964bb5..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-create-sheets-with-filament-spools/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Mounting the plate - - The next step is to assemble the mould. For this purpose, a thin sheet of metal greased with natural wax is placed in the mould. This is followed by a structure of the desired shape and width. In this case the mould is 60 x 60 cm square and has a thickness of 2 cm. In this case the amount of material used is 8 kg. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-create-sheets-with-filament-spools/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-create-sheets-with-filament-spools/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 409d56dff..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-create-sheets-with-filament-spools/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Heating the plate - - Once the material is inside, it is covered with another sheet of metal to prevent it from sticking to the press, which is also waxed. Finally, the press is turned on and heated at 230ºC for 45m or until the plastic starts to overflow. Once the 45 min are over, until it cools down. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-make-an-automated-injection-molding-machine/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-make-an-automated-injection-molding-machine/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index c32f932c0..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-make-an-automated-injection-molding-machine/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### How-to make an automated injection molding machine - - -This how-to contains information on how we built a low-cost, automated injection molding machine. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-make-an-automated-injection-molding-machine/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-make-an-automated-injection-molding-machine/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2db2f970d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-make-an-automated-injection-molding-machine/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,17 +0,0 @@ -### Download the SmartInjector.zip - - Download and read carefully the Guide.pdf - -It contains the most important informations and gives you an idea how the information on the machine in the folder is structured. - -The package contains: - -- CAD -- Parts list -- Blueprints -- An examplary program -- A Circuit diagram -- Additional pictures -- ... - -we decided to rather put a little bit more information than to few. So dont be scared when we are going a bit into the details :) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-make-an-automated-injection-molding-machine/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-make-an-automated-injection-molding-machine/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index bbf6881cc..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-make-an-automated-injection-molding-machine/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Check out the design - - Before you consider building this machine, make sure that it is within your capabilities. -It is much more complex than a normal injection or extrusion machine. - -In the download is a very detailed CAD of the current state. The machine is not completely perfect yet. We still keep on improving it. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-make-an-automated-injection-molding-machine/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-make-an-automated-injection-molding-machine/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 049571a6d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-make-an-automated-injection-molding-machine/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Replicate and do even better;) - - If you want to accept the challenge, then build the machine yourself. - -It is not perfect yet and we added a troubleshooting section in the download with details on what has to be improved. -If you have good Ideas and you made improvements with your machine, please let us know and share back :) - -Cheers, SOTOP-Recycling \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-make-and-use-100-recycled-skateboard-rails/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-make-and-use-100-recycled-skateboard-rails/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 3a4b1aeef..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-make-and-use-100-recycled-skateboard-rails/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### HOW TO MAKE AND USE 100% RECYCLED SKATEBOARD RAILS - - -Deck rails have been used by skateboarders since the 80’s to (1) help boards slide better on handrails, coping, curbs, etc., and (2) to protect board graphics. These recycled rails succeed at both of those things, but offer something that skateboarding has never seen before: a set of deck rails that is made from 100% post-consumer waste. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-make-and-use-100-recycled-skateboard-rails/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-make-and-use-100-recycled-skateboard-rails/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index d5a9b5e55..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-make-and-use-100-recycled-skateboard-rails/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Order / Make the Mold (~$500) - - You can buy my mold, or my mold design from the precious plastic bazar or my website (links below), or design a version yourself. -(with anything Precious Plastic related that sells on my website, I donate 5% of the sales to https://preciousplastic.com/support) - -https://bazar.preciousplastic.com/moulds/injection-moulds/aluminum-mold-for-recycled-skateboard-deck-rails/ -https://bazar.preciousplastic.com/moulds/injection-moulds/3d-model-cad-for-mold-for-recycled-skateboard-deck-rails/ \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-make-and-use-100-recycled-skateboard-rails/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-make-and-use-100-recycled-skateboard-rails/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index a8784c616..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-make-and-use-100-recycled-skateboard-rails/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Having the Mold Made! - - If you buy my mold, then you’ll receive it in about 4 weeks. - -If you buy my mold design, then you’ll immediately receive the file, but you’ll still need to have the mold made, which leaves two options: - - Make it yourself - - Send it to someone to make the mold: - - Your local CNC machinist - - Whoever is the most local mold maker to you on the Precious Plastic Bazar diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-make-and-use-100-recycled-skateboard-rails/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-make-and-use-100-recycled-skateboard-rails/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 45ded9beb..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-make-and-use-100-recycled-skateboard-rails/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Reycled Used Plastic - - Collect used plastic to shred and shred it, or buy pre-shredded plastic: - -https://bazar.preciousplastic.com/machines/shredder/ -https://bazar.preciousplastic.com/raw-material/plastic/ - -(I’ve found that type #2 HDPE has worked best for me for durability and boardsliding, but I’d love to hear what other people find if another plastic type works better/differently for them) diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-make-and-use-100-recycled-skateboard-rails/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-make-and-use-100-recycled-skateboard-rails/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index e652c8c62..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-make-and-use-100-recycled-skateboard-rails/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Get Injection Machine (~$1.5K) - - Buy or build an injection machine - -https://bazar.preciousplastic.com/machines/injection/ -https://youtu.be/qtZv96ciFIU - -(also, I realize that an extruder might be a better Precious Plastic machine for this product. That said, I can’t afford an extruder, so I’ve been using the injection machine. I’d love to hear any feedback if someone out there makes these rails with an extruder.) diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-make-and-use-100-recycled-skateboard-rails/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-make-and-use-100-recycled-skateboard-rails/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 720711fcb..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-make-and-use-100-recycled-skateboard-rails/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Education! - - Learn how to use your new injection machine and mold and get a better understanding of plastics: - -https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/ -https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/work-with-the-injection-machine - -When going through this educational step, if you have any questions feel free to email me at preciousplasticpasadena@gmail.com \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-make-and-use-100-recycled-skateboard-rails/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-make-and-use-100-recycled-skateboard-rails/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 042c389e4..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-make-and-use-100-recycled-skateboard-rails/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Screws! - - Screws are needed to attach the rails to the bottom of a skateboard. Order screws that fit the rails and work with skateboard decks (this took a lot of trial and error to figure out which screws work best). - -Here's the options I found that work best: - - Order these: https://www.mcmaster.com/91555A101/ - - If you’re not able to order through McMaster, find screws that match the image attached to this step. - -I recommend using a plain non-powered phillips head screwdriver to screw the rails onto a board and not strip out the wood. But an electric drill can work if you’re delicate. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-make-and-use-100-recycled-skateboard-rails/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-make-and-use-100-recycled-skateboard-rails/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index 651716da5..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-make-and-use-100-recycled-skateboard-rails/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### SKATE & DESTORY - - Make your own recycled rails, and anything else that you can think of to have injection molds made of! And happy recycling! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-make-the-perfect-recycled-sheet/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-make-the-perfect-recycled-sheet/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7718703fd..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-make-the-perfect-recycled-sheet/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### How to make the perfect recycled sheet - - -How we make our sheets from our studio in Costa Rica. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-make-the-perfect-recycled-sheet/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-make-the-perfect-recycled-sheet/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 377a68c97..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-make-the-perfect-recycled-sheet/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Tools and equipment needed - - To create a great sheet, you will need: -- A sheet press -- A cooling press -- Moulds + mould frame -- Good source of clean, sorted plastic -- A dedicated team of plastic enthusiasts! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-make-the-perfect-recycled-sheet/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-make-the-perfect-recycled-sheet/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 04fb4c932..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-make-the-perfect-recycled-sheet/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Create the sheet - - We've made a video with Precious Plastic that talks about how we make our sheets! Give it a watch :) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-make-the-perfect-recycled-sheet/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-make-the-perfect-recycled-sheet/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 71da74f1e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-make-the-perfect-recycled-sheet/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Outcomes - - Once you have your sheet, take a minute to admire it, and then create your product or sell it to your clients. There's plenty of products that can be made and our clients have done really awesome things with our materials. Check out our website or out Instagram for our latest products - www.trs.cr @​​​​​trs.cr \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-make-the-perfect-sheet/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-make-the-perfect-sheet/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index ba4d2e381..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-make-the-perfect-sheet/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### How to make the perfect sheet - - -How we make our sheets from our studio in Costa Rica. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-make-the-perfect-sheet/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-make-the-perfect-sheet/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 29c0e9e8e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-make-the-perfect-sheet/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Tools and equipment needed - - To create a great sheet, you will need: -- A sheet press -- A cooling press -- Moulds + mould frame -- Good source of clean, sorted plastic -- Patience -- A good, dedicated team \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-make-the-perfect-sheet/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-make-the-perfect-sheet/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 48bba0f39..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-make-the-perfect-sheet/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Create the sheet - - Watch this video to find out how we create our sheets. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-make-the-perfect-sheet/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-make-the-perfect-sheet/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index ceef4732e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-make-the-perfect-sheet/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Outcomes - - Once you have your sheet, take a minute to admire it, and then create your product or sell it to your clients. There's plenty of products that can be made - Check out our website for our latest products - www.trs.cr \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-officially-register-your-business-in-the-uk/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-officially-register-your-business-in-the-uk/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2e3dc444d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-officially-register-your-business-in-the-uk/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,12 +0,0 @@ -### How to officially register your business in the UK - - -Note: This is applicable for the UK only!! - -You might be asking: How do I officially register my business in the UK? Well, you can browse the web and you'll find a lot of information on the internet. Trust me, there is so much out there, it can be quite overwhelming - not to mention the hours you would be spending researching and reading. - -That's why I've written this 'How-to' as there are a few things to think about before starting the registration process at Companies House. I've started my first business in 2019, everything was new to me and I didn't really know where to start and I just dived right in. I've gone back and forth and eventually got there. But if you have everything ready, the registration process goes smooth and quickly. - -Hence, I've prepared a list of steps below, which is structured in a way that it can be easily followed in a sequential way. - -So, let’s get started. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-officially-register-your-business-in-the-uk/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-officially-register-your-business-in-the-uk/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 0f9246b3f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-officially-register-your-business-in-the-uk/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,14 +0,0 @@ -### Picking your company name - - There are three general options: -- Pick a name in line of what your business is all about -- Use your own name(s) to some fashion -- Look online for inspirations - -If your company name reflects on your product or the product you might have, be generic enough because if you change your business direction later on, the name might not be suitable anymore. A company name can be officially changed but you might be known with your chosen name and do not want to change it. - -Once you picked your name, make sure it has not been taken already. Check ‘Company name availability checker’ on the UK government website: https://find-and-update.company-information.service.gov.uk/company-name-availability - -Also, check if a brand name/trademark already exists or if the name is already protected otherwise - here are some useful links: https://www.gov.uk/search-for-trademark, and https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/ip-basics/ip-basics - -Once this is clarified, you can move on to the next steps \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-officially-register-your-business-in-the-uk/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-officially-register-your-business-in-the-uk/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 3fbaf35ee..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-officially-register-your-business-in-the-uk/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Get a bespoke email address - - Once you finalised your business name, you might want to obtain a domain name for your business email address - -This is not mandatory for the registration, but it somehow gives the business credibility, offers brand consistency, separates your business emails from private emails, it looks more professional, and might be used later on to set up new staff accounts - -Note that for the registration of your business, you will need to supply an email address. If you want to use your private email address in the first instance, that’s not a problem as the email address will not be made public on Companies House. There are no issues changing the email address at Companies House later - -For bespoke email addresses, there are several options to choose from, such as free business email addresses (be a bit careful with some of them), or you can pick a company dealing with business email addresses including an inbox (comes with a small fee, they do checks, you can go for 'co.uk' or 'com'). \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-officially-register-your-business-in-the-uk/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-officially-register-your-business-in-the-uk/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index d96608c0e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-officially-register-your-business-in-the-uk/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Get a Registered Office Address - Page 1 of 2 - - You will need to supply Companies House with a registered office address. Note that this address will be made public and everyone in the world can see it. There are no objections to use your home address, but for privacy purposes, this is not advisable. - -You can change your registered office address at Companies House later on, but note that any changes are also made public. In other words, if you supply your private address and change it later, your previous private address will still be visible in the changes. Please be very aware of that. - -On how to obtain a registered office address, here are the options: -- Check online for companies supplying registered office addresses – there is a fee for that -- Use the address of your accountancy firm, if you have one (ask first), that may also come with an additional fee -- Use your private address (not advisable) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-officially-register-your-business-in-the-uk/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-officially-register-your-business-in-the-uk/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 56fb6c22e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-officially-register-your-business-in-the-uk/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Get a Registered Office Address - Page 2 of 2 - - If you choose to obtain a registered office address with a company and are not quire sure which address you would like to have, here is another thought: - -Look at a company in the UK you like or admire with which you want to have something in common, check out their details at Companies House – here is the link to Companies House: https://find-and-update.company-information.service.gov.uk/ - -If you then copy & past their registered office address and check online, it will tell you which registered office address company they have been using, providing they didn't use the address from their accountancy firm or their own postal address (a lot of large companies do that) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-officially-register-your-business-in-the-uk/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-officially-register-your-business-in-the-uk/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 69821bd3a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-officially-register-your-business-in-the-uk/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Final steps prior to company registration - - To see how a company appears at Companies House, go on their website: https://www.gov.uk/government/organisations/companies-house. - -Click on ‘Find company information’, and click on ‘start now’ and type in any company name you want to have a look at. A list of company names will most likely come up, just click on the one you want to see - -Have a look on what is displayed (Overview), what documents are disclosed publicly (Filing history), and the name of the registered officers (People) - -That way you’ll get a feel for what you will have to think about before starting with the registration process. This will also give you an indication on what is made public to everyone. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-officially-register-your-business-in-the-uk/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-officially-register-your-business-in-the-uk/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index d7f8abb02..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-officially-register-your-business-in-the-uk/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,13 +0,0 @@ -### Registration at Companies House - - After all of the preparation, we’re finally there!!! - -Search on the internet for ‘Companies House’ – or, here is the general link: https://www.gov.uk/government/organisations/companies-house - -Click on ‘Set up a company’ and you’ll see a step-by-step list which you’ll need to follow - -Note: there is a registration fee of £13 (as per 2024) after you filled everything in, which needs to be paid right away. You can use your own private bank account as this is a one off payment - -After the payment is complete, you’ll receive an email informing you of your registration and telling you what to expect next. - -Note: this is not the final confirmation!! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-officially-register-your-business-in-the-uk/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-officially-register-your-business-in-the-uk/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index 1f1834d23..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-officially-register-your-business-in-the-uk/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### After you finished your registration - - First of all, congratulations!!! You’ve done it!!! This is a quite a big step!! - -You’ll receive another email from Companies House a few days later congratulating you to the formation of your company and confirming that you are now registered. Attached to their email would be the ‘Certificate of incorporation’ and the ‘Memorandum of association’. If these documents are not attached, they can be retrieved by signing into the WebFiling service and selecting ‘My Recent Filings’ - -Just a heads-up, now that you are a new business owner, there are many new tasks you will have to complete, such as: -- Confirmation Statements (annually, filed to Companies House; this is very simple) -- Annual accounts, corporation tax and company tax returns (annually, filed to HMRC; this might not be so simple) -- Self-Assessment (HMRC supplies very good advise on that, but it’s generally simple enough) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-officially-register-your-business-in-the-uk/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-officially-register-your-business-in-the-uk/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index 569af1ec7..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-officially-register-your-business-in-the-uk/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Business Bank Account - - Depending on how you’ve set up your business, you might be required to have a business bank account. Or you may want to have a business bank account to separate your business finances from your private finances - -There are the usual high street banks but also private banks as alternatives to high street banks. It is worth looking around as the fee structure varies and is often not transparent - -Just a caution, this might take a while. Be patient \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-officially-register-your-business-in-the-uk/step_8.md b/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-officially-register-your-business-in-the-uk/step_8.md deleted file mode 100644 index 41b453c64..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-officially-register-your-business-in-the-uk/step_8.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,17 +0,0 @@ -### More Information - - In case you need more information, ask me: monika@​replastify.co.uk - -You can also visit me in Berkshire (UK) if you are around. - -I am in the process of building my own shredder from scratch (I'm not an engineer!!!) - so this will be challenging. But I'm very much looking forward to finish things off. I've already completed my welding course and am about to attend a machining course. - -I found a workshop in which I can do all of the work and they do supply training as well and are at hand. This is really useful - and, they are nice guys. I'm so glad I have found them. - -I'll be soon more active with Precious Plastic, but am busy with so many things. Well, I'll do one thing after the next. - -By the way, I most recently registered my company Replastify (Precious Plastic) Limited. You can check me out on Companies House. - -I wish you all the best. - -Monika \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-teach-about-plastic-recycling/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-teach-about-plastic-recycling/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 177ebeb6d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-teach-about-plastic-recycling/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### How to teach about plastic recycling - - -Based on my learning by doing experience I made a package with basic information that can help individuals, schools and NGOs. You can find tips how teach about recycling technologies, circular economy and other processing possibilities. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-teach-about-plastic-recycling/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-teach-about-plastic-recycling/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index ab59e2ebd..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-teach-about-plastic-recycling/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Start with WHY.. - - In the modern and industrial European country such as Czech Republic was in 2020 recycled only 30% of plastic material, 39% was burned as a certified fuel and remaining ended up somewere else. People can collect it but do not know how to reuse it. -In my opinion, problem is in the ignorance. - -I believe that education with real examples can increase awarness about lowering consumption of single use plastic, reusing and recycling. Young generation should know about plastic more information that I learned as a teenager. - -We have an ability to choose how our future World will look like. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-teach-about-plastic-recycling/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-teach-about-plastic-recycling/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 777291829..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-teach-about-plastic-recycling/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Download package - - Total package has 1.1 GB. Its not possible to upload it on this how-to page. - -You can download it for free from Google drive link: - -https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1Mwp2PZPxX7lRY0rVgQ_F8svFhY6AAQRr?usp=sharing - -You edit materials, share and use as you want. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-teach-about-plastic-recycling/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-teach-about-plastic-recycling/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 1aed3b376..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-teach-about-plastic-recycling/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,38 +0,0 @@ -### Choose activity you want to do - - As an example I prepared content for 3 different activites that you can do. It was designed according to my experience for machines and tools I use. - -AFTER SCHOOL ACTIVITY FOR KIDS: - -+ many topics described on detal -+ regular basis -+ more time for creative activities -+ space for development -+ individual approach - -- suitable only for small group -- requires a facility and equipment - -PRESENTATION AT SCHOOL: - -+ larger impact -+ demonstration technology on site -+ cheaper than regular hobby club -+ presentation at school - - -- a brief overview about problem -- not enough time to explain everything - -WORKSHOP FOR PUBLIC: - -+ individual approach -+ creative and education activities -+ participants make their own product -+ providing advices how to join pp -+ single afternoon activity - -- suitable for small groups -- requires a facility and equipment - - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-teach-about-plastic-recycling/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-teach-about-plastic-recycling/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9c0f4f118..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-teach-about-plastic-recycling/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,12 +0,0 @@ -### More information - - In case you need more information, ask me: info@plastmakers.com - -You can also visit me in Liberec (Czech Republic) or book for a workshop/ presentation at your event. - -All news and new projects I also publish on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/plastmakers/ - -I wish you all the best. - -Tom - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-to-do/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-to-do/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 185605ebf..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-to-do/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### How To To Do - - -1 \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-to-do/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-to-do/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index e732fee8f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/how-to-to-do/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### 1 - - 1 \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 6cd7861ef..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### 日本ã®ãƒ—ラ製å“ã®ç¨®é¡žã®è¦‹åˆ†ã‘æ–¹ - - -日本ã¯è«¸å¤–国ã¨ã¯é•ã„ã€ã€Œãƒ—ラマークã€ã¨ã„ã†ä¸€ã¤ã®ãƒžãƒ¼ã‚¯ã§ç´ æã®è¡¨è¨˜ãŒæ¸ˆã¾ã•ã‚Œã¦ã„ã‚‹ã“ã¨ãŒå¤šãã‚ã‚Šã¾ã™ã€‚ãã®ãŸã‚ã€ã“ã®ãƒ—ラスãƒãƒƒã‚¯ãŒãƒ—ラã®ä¸­ã§ã‚‚何ã®ç¨®é¡žãªã®ã‹ï¼Ÿã²ã¨ç›®ã§è¦‹åˆ†ã‘ã‚‹ã“ã¨ãŒé›£ã—ã„時ãŒã‚ã‚Šã¾ã™ã€‚ -ãã“ã§ã€Precious PlasticãŒå…¬é–‹ã—ã¦ã„ã‚‹ç´ æã®è¦‹åˆ†ã‘æ–¹ã®ä»–ã«ã€ã“ã†ã„ã†æ–¹æ³•ã‚‚ã‚ã‚Šã¾ã™ã‚ˆã¨ã„ã†æƒ…報をã¾ã¨ã‚ã¦ã¿ã¾ã—ãŸã€‚ \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/human-powered-shredder/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/human-powered-shredder/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 09dbf4caf..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/human-powered-shredder/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Human powered shredder - - -The Precious Plastic machines are open source, which means you can adapt it to your requirements. So if you don't have or don't want to use a motor, there are other more 'humane' ways to power the shredder! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/human-powered-shredder/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/human-powered-shredder/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 14653f57f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/human-powered-shredder/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11 +0,0 @@ -### Disclaimer - - Before we start, let us mention that this guide is supposed to be informative, only for you to be inspired about the possibilities of machine design. - -We're not responsible for the design or (mal)functioning of your machine, please seek professional help when needed. - -Always follow safety recommendations and practices when building machinery and using tools. - -Design, build and hack this machine at your own risk! - -The pictures and 3D models in this guide are from particular one-off designs, not to be taken literally as they may not make sense for your requirements. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/human-powered-shredder/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/human-powered-shredder/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8e8356dcf..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/human-powered-shredder/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,13 +0,0 @@ -### User Requirement Specifications - - Or URS for short is just a fancy way of saying 'identify and define the characteristics of what you want to make'. In other words, before you build the machine, these decisions will have an influence in the design: - -- How to power it. You can use a motor (single phase or three phase?), human power (hand-cranked or pedal powered?), animal power (a little hamster in a wheel?), other natural source of energy (wind or hydro power? nuclear? dark matter?) - -- How much use it's going to get. If you plan on using it once a month, perhaps it makes sense to keep it cheap and simple (hand cranked power). If you plan to use it for a few hours a day, you might want something other than your arms to power it. - -- What materials do you have available? If you have a salvaged motor maybe it can be adapted. Or if you have an exercise bike that you don't use anymore, you have half the work done for you. - -- What skills and processes do you have available? If you can weld, the standard design of the machines would work for you. If like me, you can't, you'll have to outsource the task to someone else (which can cost you more than you'd like) or redesign it. - -- Is it going to be used off-grid? If access to electricity is difficult then that's going to drive the design to a non-electric one. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/human-powered-shredder/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/human-powered-shredder/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index e776bb581..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/human-powered-shredder/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11 +0,0 @@ -### To weld or not to weld - - If you can't weld steel, or don't have access to it, there are other techniques that you can use for the frame: - -- Steel sections can be fastened with nuts and bolts. You save the welding time, but need to drill holes instead. - -- You can use aluminium extrusion T-slot profiles instead, which are easy to bolt and work with. - -- Be careful if you use wood as an structural element. Some parts of the shredder may be subject to strong forces that wood may not resist. - -As for the shredder itself, it can be modified so that it doesn't need welding, but would require a different technique: precision engineering (holes and dimensions need to be very accurate and perfectly square) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/human-powered-shredder/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/human-powered-shredder/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 03ac9c5d3..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/human-powered-shredder/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11 +0,0 @@ -### Reduce the speed, increase the torque - - The key in the shredder performance is to make it turn with high torque. That will allow it to shred thicker plastics (1-3 mm) easily. So what we want to do is reduce the speed we apply to the machine and transform it into torque. There are several techniques for power transmission: - -- A gearbox. In a very compact unit, we can reduce the speed in ratios of up to 100:1. Usually they have a wormgear internally, so it will block in case of a clog and it won't back-drive. - -- Pulleys and belts. The benefit of these are that they can transmit power but they can also slip, which can be good when there's a clog in the shredder. - -- Gears - -- Chains and sprockets \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/human-powered-shredder/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/human-powered-shredder/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 1aa17f3e6..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/human-powered-shredder/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### I believe I can FLYWHEEL - - The magic of the flywheels is that it gives the machine inertia: When it's turning, it keeps the machine moving with little input. Remember to put it on the 'fast' side of your mechanism. - -The factors that influence the efficiency of the flywheel is its weight, shape and speed. Usually a disc or wheel works best, a distribution of weight away from the axis helps. The faster it moves, the better it is at mantaining rotation with little effort. - -Think of the exercise bike in the picture: the flywheel on the front will keep turning even if you're not pedalling. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/human-powered-shredder/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/human-powered-shredder/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index ed3dab666..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/human-powered-shredder/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Safety first! (and last) - - Make sure to incorporate guards and covers so that fingers can't reach any moving parts at any points, minimizing the risks of injury \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/in-the-process-of-building-one/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/in-the-process-of-building-one/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 04eac6d29..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/in-the-process-of-building-one/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### In the process of building one - - -Following the initial precious plastic models, I modeled in SolidWorks with most of the detail, a manual vertical desktop injection molding machine that does not require welding processes. Its injection capacity is approximately 60 grams and the voltage is 110Volts. -I am about to start the assembly and testing process. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/in-the-process-of-building-one/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/in-the-process-of-building-one/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 0cff44678..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/in-the-process-of-building-one/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### PARTS and tools for assembly. - - First at all, it is important and nice to set all the parts up required to start to assembly the injector machine. Some of this parts have been milled or cut with special tools like lathes or water pressure machine, however manufactured process has been very simple and drawings are provided with all detailed. There are 20 parts and 19 screws with washer and nuts. No welding is required. One 5/16" Allen key and \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/in-the-process-of-building-one/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/in-the-process-of-building-one/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 070b9576b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/in-the-process-of-building-one/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Base assembly - - Base assembly requires 4 square tubes, 4 plates, 4 bended plates 90 degrees. 10 screws with nut 3/8". Allen key an wrench. First, its important to form an H shape with the tubes, then guide the screws through the holes. Tight up and done. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/in-the-process-of-building-one/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/in-the-process-of-building-one/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 676bc70a6..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/in-the-process-of-building-one/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Barrel holder, clamps and barrel - - In the same way, use screws and nuts to set up the triangle plate which holds the clamps and thus, the holds the barrel. Every part and perforation is made for 3/8 inches screw. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/in-the-process-of-building-one/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/in-the-process-of-building-one/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index dbe55103c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/in-the-process-of-building-one/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Long linkage mechanism - - Long linkage mechanism. Here use the two longest links and install them with the help of two 2 x 3/5" Allen screws, double washer and nuts. Do not tight too much because this is a movable part. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/in-the-process-of-building-one/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/in-the-process-of-building-one/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 46591607c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/in-the-process-of-building-one/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Shaft and handler. - - Finally, Shaft for injection purpose and handler need to be installed. First insert the shaft into the barrel. It can be held with a screw. Make sure the nozzle is installed too. Then, screw the handler bar to the mechanical link and use the short mechanical link to held the shaft. As mention before, use 3/8 Allen screw an Allen key for all the assembly process. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/inj---21-/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/inj---21-/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index ef861889e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/inj---21-/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### INJ - 2.1 - - -The Injection machine 2.1 is an iteration based on the Injection machine 1.0 -(https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/build/injection) - -This latest version of the Injection machine (2.1) solves 2 main problems: Safety and transportability. How? By following the CE safety requirements (European standards) and designing it to be easily disassembled. - -In this how-to you'll find the download files and the requirements to build and run this machine yourself :) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/inj---21-/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/inj---21-/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 30431f745..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/inj---21-/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,13 +0,0 @@ -### Download - - First off, here is your download package for this machine! - -In this folder you will find: -- 3D CAD (.step and .f3d) -- Lasercut files (.dxf) -- Blueprints (.pdf) -- Schematics -- BOM -... and more :) - -You can see a preview of all the files (in case you are just curious 👀) and you'll also be able to download them for manufacturing 🔧 \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/inj---21-/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/inj---21-/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 372d07cd3..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/inj---21-/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,14 +0,0 @@ -### Build - - These are the required skills and machinery you or your machine builder will need to have access to: - -- General metalworking (cutting, drilling) -- Welding -- Turning (machining on a lathe) -- Laser cutting -- General electrical work -- Painting - -âš™ï¸ Machinery / specific tools needed: -- Grinder, chop saw, MIG/MAG or TIG, drill press -- Laser cutting (this can easily be subcontracted around the world) diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/inj---21-/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/inj---21-/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index d3d465fec..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/inj---21-/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,16 +0,0 @@ -### Run, Create and Sell :) - - READY TO INJECT? - -To run and maintain this machine properly and safely, make sure to have a look at its MANUAL: 👉https://workbench.grabcad.com/workbench/projects/gc1ARUvHuvC7gQZoMaKhsrV8dDsgcDAuXxzQvqiUt1Pdbz#/space/gcSHWnHrM8DLz5SZ3AqkpeoWfCMk6iJExA2weUOFnzhZ9j/link/3452555 - -Start creating! -You'll be able to produce a large variety of products like tiles, pots, sunglass frames and more. -Have a look at the How-to's to find inspiration for injection moulds or products: -👉https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to?tags=JVpo3tdEqbk8G787hAZH - -Buy and sell on the Bazar! -On the Precious Plastic Bazar you can buy moulds or parts for this machine - or sell your own creations and machines! -👉 bazar.preciousplastic.com - -Happy melting! 🤗 \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/inject-a-plate-/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/inject-a-plate-/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2538d8875..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/inject-a-plate-/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,12 +0,0 @@ -### Inject a plate - - -In this awsome "How To" you will make an aluminium mould for injecting a plate (3mm thickness) from recycled plastic. - -Can be used for serving dry food like nuts or for objects :) -Should not be used for eating purposes - only if you apply a correct coating or lacquer! - -Check out the real life plate execution here: https://www.youtube.com/watch? v=YzjTm3FRLVY&t=5s - -This product rocks! -*special thanks to Paul Denney! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/inject-a-plate-/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/inject-a-plate-/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index e03abaf87..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/inject-a-plate-/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,13 +0,0 @@ -### Get ready - - Tools needed: -- CNC, tools to cut (cutting plier), drill and welder - Mask with ABEC filter, gloves, glasses -- scale, sanding paper, polishing paste (for metal) - 4 bolts of 8m width, min length 9 cm + nuts -- 2 metal dowel pins (6m example) -- 8m + 6m drill bit -- wrenches -- 2 aluminium blocks 26x26x4cm, -- metal sheet min 15x15x0.5cm -- plumbing connector 1 inch, -- Precious Plastic stamp for your plastic type -Machines needed: Injection machine and a shredder (or shredded plastic) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/inject-a-plate-/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/inject-a-plate-/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7624b1ae2..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/inject-a-plate-/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### The mould - - As we will make this plate with the injection machine, we need to make the mould for it. It will be made of 3 parts: Bottom and top part out of aluminium. And next is the connector part made from steel. -The top and bottom part will be CNC-milled out of two blocks of aluminium while we’ll make the connector part manually. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/inject-a-plate-/step_10.md b/resources/howtos-oa/inject-a-plate-/step_10.md deleted file mode 100644 index a4e4db645..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/inject-a-plate-/step_10.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Discover your creation - - Keep the handle bar down. Quickly unscrew your mould from the injection barrel, and re-plug the connection point on the injector, so that no plastic leaks out. By applying water you can speed up the cooling process. When the mould is cooled open the two sides of your mould by unscrewing the bolts. Use a hammer and pin (like your bold for example), to hammer out the plate through the nozzle connector on the top. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/inject-a-plate-/step_11.md b/resources/howtos-oa/inject-a-plate-/step_11.md deleted file mode 100644 index eec0b568c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/inject-a-plate-/step_11.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Finish the plate - - Cut away the excess material at the injection point with some sharp plier. Sand the uneven areas to give it a clean finish. For this you can use a machine or your bare hands(if you dare to). - - -*Disclaimer: -Due to no full possible verification of the plastics sources -do not eat food from this plate unless you applied a lacquer to the surface. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/inject-a-plate-/step_12.md b/resources/howtos-oa/inject-a-plate-/step_12.md deleted file mode 100644 index 725be808c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/inject-a-plate-/step_12.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Label your plastic! Stamp the plate! - - Ideally, at this point you should add a plastic type symbol to your product to show what plastic is made from! -This is important so that later on people know which type it is, and it can be recycled again. -There are different techniques you can use to stamp your material. -Here we used the Precious Plastic stamps (You can get them online on the Bazar). - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/inject-a-plate-/step_13.md b/resources/howtos-oa/inject-a-plate-/step_13.md deleted file mode 100644 index fadb4f5f0..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/inject-a-plate-/step_13.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,15 +0,0 @@ -### Finish like a heroe - - Grab yourself a well earned beer (or tea for the under 18’s...), and admire your work! -For any questions contact me on hoogewerfthomas@gmail.com. - -Or send a photo of your creation to me ;) - -Check out the real life plate execution in Panama! -https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YzjTm3FRLVY&t=5s - -*special thanks to Paul Denney! - -*****Disclaimer***** -Due to no full possible verification of the plastics sources -do not eat food from this plate unless you applied a lacquer to the surface. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/inject-a-plate-/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/inject-a-plate-/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 914b9309f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/inject-a-plate-/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### CNC your top and bottom parts - - Let’s start with the CNC part. -Download the attached STEP file and CNC-mill them into the 2 separate aluminium blocks both equal sized of minimum size 26cm x 26cm x 4cm. (Note: The standard Precious Plastic Injection machine limits the max width for moulds to 28cm). - -The step file includes 6 reference points to be milled. These points make it easy to manually drill on the exact location of the aluminium blocks. If you are not lucky enough to have access to a CNC milling machine, you can send the files to a CNC cutting company (consider that this will be more expensive and will probably take longer). - -Once the mould is cut, polish the mould to achieve a high quality surface for your product. You can do that yourself or ask the CNC cutting company to polish the mould for you. - -*special thanks to Friedrich diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/inject-a-plate-/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/inject-a-plate-/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 535b5427e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/inject-a-plate-/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Drill the holes in the aluminium mould - - Now the mould parts need holes. We have to make 2 types of holes. Total will be 6. (the injection hole comes later) - -First we drill 2 halfway holes on both inner sides of the aluminium blocks to fit 2 metal dowel pins in there. These pins make sure your mould is always aligned straight when you are injecting. (see first image) Drill the hole size according to the dowel pin size you have. I used 6m width. Drill the holes on both sides half way. -After opening and closing the mould more often the opening and closing will become more easy. - -Then 4 holes are needed to connect and close the mould with bolts and nuts. Drill 4 holes on the 4 corners of the aluminium blocks. Use the pre marked drill indicators ór close the mould straight diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/inject-a-plate-/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/inject-a-plate-/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9c2c6a2c7..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/inject-a-plate-/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Drill the injection hole - - Using a 13mm bit, drill a hole in the center of the bottom mould part. This is where the plastic will flow into the mould, out of the injection machine. The center drill indicator is also included in the STEP file. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/inject-a-plate-/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/inject-a-plate-/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index c686408b2..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/inject-a-plate-/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Make the connector plate - - To make the connection plate, we need a square steel sheet of 150cm x 150cm (minimum 0.5cm thick) and a nozzle which fits your injection machine (here: 1/2 inch - BSP - type). Check the connection types of the injector. https://youtu.be/qtZv96ciFIU?t=255 -Mark the center points for the holes according to the drawing and drill the holes. -Then place the nozzle on top of the 13mm hole and weld it to the plate. Make sure to place it exactly in the center, this will help screwing the mould to the injector easily, and make the plastic flow through more fluently. -This part needs to align perfectly to the rest of the mould and the injection machine, so try to work as precisely as possible. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/inject-a-plate-/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/inject-a-plate-/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index f4bab1f79..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/inject-a-plate-/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Sand the mould edges - - The mould will be more user friendly if you sand the hard edges away, as CNC cut aluminum can be very sharp. Optionally, I would advise that you add an inclined edge to the bottom part of the mould, this will make it much easier to open and close the mould. -It is important that the inside of the mould is sanded and polished for a clean finish of the product. This will make the difference between a high quality product and a rough one. Use a wooden block with sanding paper to keep your sanding straight. Start with 120 grain size and double the amount with each step (120, 240, 440 etc. all the way up to 2000). - -Use a cloth to clean your mould from aluminium dust. Don’t blow it out of the mould this is very bad for your lungs! After, use metal grained steel wool and then fine steel wool. The last step is to polish your mould with an additional clean cloth and polishing paste. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/inject-a-plate-/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/inject-a-plate-/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index 77e887fea..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/inject-a-plate-/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Assemble the mould - - You are now done with the mould’s preps and can assemble all the parts together. First connect the top and bottom part, using the dowel pins to help you with alignment and bolts and nuts to tighten all together. Then you can connect the connector plate to the top and bottom part of the mould. You’re now good to go. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/inject-a-plate-/step_8.md b/resources/howtos-oa/inject-a-plate-/step_8.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8e0eadb19..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/inject-a-plate-/step_8.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Get yo plastic! - - Use PP, HDPE, LDPE or PS (you probably will have most success with PP or LDPE). -The maximum amount that can be used for the standard injector is 150g. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/inject-a-plate-/step_9.md b/resources/howtos-oa/inject-a-plate-/step_9.md deleted file mode 100644 index 566e0d911..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/inject-a-plate-/step_9.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### oh man! Injection time! - - Fully fill the injector with material, but be careful not to overfill as this can lead to plastic glueing to the hopper or outside of the injector. Set your temperature based on the correct melting temperatures for your plastic type. It’s good to make the lower heating element slightly hotter than the upper, to avoid solidification of the plastic. -Move the injector lever up and down to push the material deeper into the barrel. Afterwards add more material, and leave the handle bar down to keep pressure on the plastic. After around 15 min heating lift the handle bar up and open the injector. Cut away the first drip of plastic from the barrel (might still contain some unmelted plastic), and directly screw your mould to the injector. -Wear a protective mask and eye cover, as well as heat resistant gloves during this part of the process. Safety first. -Inject your plastic by pulling down with all the pressure that you can manage, to create one continuous injection. You will need to maintain pressure for 30 seconds. Do not press in parts! If you are not sure that your strength and weight are enough, you can ask someone to help you in applying force to the injection. - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-faceshield/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/injection-faceshield/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index e7ca869f7..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-faceshield/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11 +0,0 @@ -### Injection Faceshield - - -With the current, global situation of COVID-19 we face many challenges. - - -One challenge is the short pass and access to safety equipment. - -With our machines in place the batch production of products like a Face Shield can start immediately. - -With this Mould you are able to produce around 120 Shields per day, with one person and one machine. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-faceshield/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/injection-faceshield/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index bdead9d25..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-faceshield/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Order the laser cut parts - - In the Downloadkit you can find all the DXF Files for lasercutting the parts. - -I used 6mm steel for the top, bottom and one of the insert plate. -The other insert plate is made out of 5mm steel so that you can make the holes in the foil with an office punch. - -If you are planing to make a bigger production, there is also a CNC Mould attached. -U can skip to step 4, if u are using the CNC Mould. -For the CNC Mould you can use 20 - 25mm aluminium. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-faceshield/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/injection-faceshield/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 6a829c04a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-faceshield/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Cut the thread - - Cut M6 threads in the 5mm holes on the insert plates. - -You also can drill up the two 5,8mm holes for the metal pin with a H6 reamer in the injection Plate. - - -Then you can drill up the holes in the other insert plate so 6.1 mm - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-faceshield/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/injection-faceshield/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index efa266fe0..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-faceshield/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Assemble - - Mount the plates with M6x12mm screws. -On the Injection insert plate you have to sand away the screws, since the plate is a little bit thinner. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-faceshield/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/injection-faceshield/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index a8f32963d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-faceshield/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Mount the Metal Pins - - Depending on the pins you get you have to cut them to be shorter than 11mm. -We use H6x20mm pins and cut them to length. - -Punch in the metal pins with a hammer, ore glue them in place if you don´t have a reamer. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-faceshield/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/injection-faceshield/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index c922010d5..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-faceshield/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Drill the bevel - - Since we have a spring clamp system on our plasticpreneur machines, we just have to make a bevel to the mould. - -If you are workingg with precious plastic noozle system u have to weld on an adapter. -Feel free to change my design if needed. - -U can use a flat screwdriver to seperate the mould again. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-faceshield/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/injection-faceshield/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 6def5c00e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-faceshield/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,15 +0,0 @@ -### Finish it - - We allways like to sandblust our moulds to have them nice and clean. - -If you are producting the shields for a medical use, make sure, your mould is perfectly clean! - -All you need now are some M6x30 screws an some nuts to screw the mould together an you are yeady to go. - - - - - - -CNC Mould from Industriedesigner Silke Grimmelmann und Adrian Heymann. - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-faceshield/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/injection-faceshield/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9b4f33d55..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-faceshield/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,13 +0,0 @@ -### Cut the Faceshield - - There is also a cutting plan for the shiled in the download kit. - -We used 0,2 to 0,5mm PET Foil. -2 liter PET bottles also work great. - -You can use a laser or a scissors to cut it. - -The holes are designt to can be made with an office puncher. - - -To mount the shield on your face you can use a rubber or an buttonhole tape. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-faceshield/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/injection-faceshield/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9de9e80a7..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-faceshield/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Spread the Vision - - As Part of the Precious Plastic Community we love to share our ideas. - -Feel free to share, to explain people the process. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-faceshield/step_8.md b/resources/howtos-oa/injection-faceshield/step_8.md deleted file mode 100644 index d20de7e10..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-faceshield/step_8.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,14 +0,0 @@ -### Fight the Virus - - If you don´t have acces to a lasercutter or a cnc machine, you also can buy the mould in the bazar. -https://bazar.preciousplastic.com/moulds/injection-moulds/faceshield-mould-plasticpreneur-clone/ -https://bazar.preciousplastic.com/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=312 - -If you have any problem with the design, feel free to contact me. -Email: florian@doingcircular.com - -Send us pictures from your finished products on Instagram ;) -https://www.instagram.com/plasticpreneur/ - - -STAY HOME & STAY SAFE! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine---designed-for-disassembly/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine---designed-for-disassembly/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index f74c92474..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine---designed-for-disassembly/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Injection Machine - Designed for disassembly - - -Injection machine designed to be disassembled, easy to transport and ship. It now fits in a 1000x200x200 mm box when disassembled and weighs less than 30 kg. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine---designed-for-disassembly/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine---designed-for-disassembly/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index afbf5ad2c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine---designed-for-disassembly/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,20 +0,0 @@ -### Download - - Click the yellow download button (above) to get the following files: -- 3D .step files -- Laser cut files .dwg -- Bill of materials. -- Aseembly guide. - -To build this machine you'll need to have access to: -- Metal laser cut -- Grinder -- Welding machine -- Drill press -- Basic tools: spanners, allen keys, screwdivers, etc. - -If you're setting up a Injection workspace, you should still download our Injection Starterkit from our Academy. -Also, here you'll find some links to the videos and how tos for running an Injection Workspace: - -👉 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Iu6vh75Th2M -👉 https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/work-with-the-injection-machine \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine---designed-for-disassembly/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine---designed-for-disassembly/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9a03dc604..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine---designed-for-disassembly/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Designed for disassembly - - The machine has been designed to be disassembled for easy packing and transportation. It now fits in a 1000x200x200 mm box when disassembled. - -The electronics box it's the same, but we added some powercon connectors for the heating elements and kettle plug for the power supply, so that it can also be unplugged and dismounted for transportation. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine---designed-for-disassembly/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine---designed-for-disassembly/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 49ee84e6d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine---designed-for-disassembly/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Build it, hack it, share it! - - If you have any other ideas, improvements or hacks for this machine - make sure to share them with the community. -You can do this through a how-to, discord or instagram! - -Have fun building :) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-21-inj---21/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-21-inj---21/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index a583d9c40..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-21-inj---21/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Injection machine 2.1 (INJ - 2.1) - - -The Injection machine 2.1 is an iteration based on the Injection machine 1.0 -(https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/build/injection) - -This latest version of the Injection machine (2.1) solves 2 main problems: Safety and transportability. How? By following the CE safety requirements (European standards) and designing it to be easily disassembled. - -In this how-to you'll find the download files and the requirements to build and run this machine yourself :) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-21-inj---21/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-21-inj---21/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 30431f745..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-21-inj---21/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,13 +0,0 @@ -### Download - - First off, here is your download package for this machine! - -In this folder you will find: -- 3D CAD (.step and .f3d) -- Lasercut files (.dxf) -- Blueprints (.pdf) -- Schematics -- BOM -... and more :) - -You can see a preview of all the files (in case you are just curious 👀) and you'll also be able to download them for manufacturing 🔧 \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-21-inj---21/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-21-inj---21/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 372d07cd3..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-21-inj---21/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,14 +0,0 @@ -### Build - - These are the required skills and machinery you or your machine builder will need to have access to: - -- General metalworking (cutting, drilling) -- Welding -- Turning (machining on a lathe) -- Laser cutting -- General electrical work -- Painting - -âš™ï¸ Machinery / specific tools needed: -- Grinder, chop saw, MIG/MAG or TIG, drill press -- Laser cutting (this can easily be subcontracted around the world) diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-21-inj---21/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-21-inj---21/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 5046eaea9..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-21-inj---21/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,12 +0,0 @@ -### Run, Create and Sell :) - - To run and maintain this machine properly and safely, make sure to have a look at its MANUAL: 👉https://workbench.grabcad.com/workbench/projects/gc1ARUvHuvC7gQZoMaKhsrV8dDsgcDAuXxzQvqiUt1Pdbz#/space/gcSHWnHrM8DLz5SZ3AqkpeoWfCMk6iJExA2weUOFnzhZ9j/link/3452555 - -You'll be able to produce a large variety of products like tiles, pots, sunglass frames and more. -Have a look at the How-to's to find inspiration for injection moulds or products: -👉https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to?tags=JVpo3tdEqbk8G787hAZH - -On the Precious Plastic Bazar you can buy moulds or parts for this machine - or sell your own creations and machines! -👉 bazar.preciousplastic.com - -Happy melting! 🤗 \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-automatic-connection-upgrade-/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-automatic-connection-upgrade-/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index c59edffe9..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-automatic-connection-upgrade-/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Injection Machine Automatic Connection Upgrade! - - -This How-To will show you how to upgrade your injection machine and molds to make your injection process faster, safer, and more efficient! -This trick works on any injection mold that have a threaded connection to the machine nozzle. Install a brass garden hose connector and voilà! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-automatic-connection-upgrade-/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-automatic-connection-upgrade-/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9a9fbeabf..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-automatic-connection-upgrade-/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,22 +0,0 @@ -### The problems with injection - - The injection machine is a great tool to raise awareness about plastic pollution and demonstrate the plastic recycling process. -However if you need to produce many parts, the process can be a little slow and difficult. - -Here are the main problems in my opinion: - --Molds are hard to attach to the machine ---> Often get clogged up by molten plastic, making the assembly difficult and require cleaning between each cycle - --Unmolding takes time---> Threaded mold connectors create undercut shapes, making unmolding difficult - - -Here are the specifications that the upgrade system must achieve: - -1- Allow molds to be attached and detached from the machine in 1 movement -2- Reduce uncomfortable position for the operator -3- Reduce production waste -4- Be usable with gloves easily -5- Reduce cycle time -6- Do not require cleaning between each cycle - -The trick is to use a brass garden hose connector, available in gardening and home improvement store, to easily connect your mold ans be more efficient! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-automatic-connection-upgrade-/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-automatic-connection-upgrade-/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 3bd63d6f1..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-automatic-connection-upgrade-/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,18 +0,0 @@ -### Bill of materials: - - You'll need : - -x1 1 inch female brass garden hose connector with EXTERNAL threads (picture n°2) -x2 1/2" inch male brass garden hose connector (or any other size depending on what fits on your mold), with INTERNAL threads (picture n°3) -x1 1/2" inch brass endcap (picture n°1) -You'll find all of this in your local hardware/gardening store. - -1 - 14mm long piece of M14 threaded rod (or a 14mm diameter round stock (Edit: for this tutorial I used M 14 threaded rod because the exterior diameter is the right size for the application, but you can use any other 14mm round stock you have on hand, the exterior threads are not needed) - -1- 10mm drill bit -A drill and a vise - -ATTENTION: Buy the right hardware for your particular machine and mold! Check dimensions - -Metric to inch equivalent: -1/2 " = 15x21 threads \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-automatic-connection-upgrade-/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-automatic-connection-upgrade-/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 61a5a4125..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-automatic-connection-upgrade-/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Spacer fabrication - - The first step is to fabricate a spacer: basically a 14mm diameter cylinder with a 10 mm hole in the middle (see plans below). -You can use M14 threaded rod a screw as it is easily available, but a 14 mm round stock is ok. - -Using a drill and a vise, drill a 10 mm hole trough the hole spacer. - -Make sure your spacer fits nicely in both the male connector and the 1/4 inch adaptor to prevent leakage later on. - - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-automatic-connection-upgrade-/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-automatic-connection-upgrade-/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 17c1fb6b5..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-automatic-connection-upgrade-/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,24 +0,0 @@ -### Assembly steps - - I-Modify your mold - - - - 1- Place the spacer inside your mold's ½ inch connector, it should fit inside snugly and fill the most of the empty space. - - 2- Screw the male brass connector on top of it - - 3- Drill with the 10 mm drill trough all the parts to enlarge the hole diameter up to 10 mm. - - Be careful to drill right in the center, otherwise you can damage the threads. - -You'll have to repeat those steps for each one of your molds (once the mold have been used, it is inconvenient to remove the male connector and spacer inside, it is easier to fit all your molds with male connectors) - - -II- Assemble your plug: - - - Simply take the second male connector and screw it to the end cap --> Here's your new plug :) (Picture n°1) - -III- Modify your injection machine - - -Unscrew the current threaded nozzle of your machine and replace it with the brass female connector! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-automatic-connection-upgrade-/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-automatic-connection-upgrade-/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index e266bea40..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-automatic-connection-upgrade-/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,15 +0,0 @@ -### Instructions for operation - - 1 - Prepare your mold as usual and heat up your machine - -2- When you are ready to inject, remove the plug by simply lifting the female connector exterior ring (picture n°2) - -3-Push your mold up into the connector, it will automatically latch onto it and make a nice "click" sound - -4- Inject your mold - -5- To remove the mold, just lift the female connector exterior ring and get your mold, then place the plug back inside. - -6-Repeat :) - -Using this method, I was able to pull out about 15 injections/ hour, which is way more than I used to. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-automatic-connection-upgrade-/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-automatic-connection-upgrade-/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 72797d777..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-automatic-connection-upgrade-/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### No more undercut shapes! - - The piece of rod is here to fill the void inside the male connector. The molten plastic can then flows through the 10 mm round channel, and the sprue can be pulled out from the mold easily (Picture N°1) - -ATTENTION: Don't forget the spacer, otherwise you are going to have a bad time unmold (picture n°2). \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-automatic-connection-upgrade/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-automatic-connection-upgrade/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 02d6470c0..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-automatic-connection-upgrade/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Injection Machine Automatic Connection Upgrade - - -This How-To will show you how to upgrade your injection machine and molds to make your injection process faster, safer, and more efficient! -This trick works on any injection mold that have a threaded connection to the machine nozzle. Install a brass garden hose connector and voilà! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-automatic-connection-upgrade/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-automatic-connection-upgrade/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9a9fbeabf..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-automatic-connection-upgrade/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,22 +0,0 @@ -### The problems with injection - - The injection machine is a great tool to raise awareness about plastic pollution and demonstrate the plastic recycling process. -However if you need to produce many parts, the process can be a little slow and difficult. - -Here are the main problems in my opinion: - --Molds are hard to attach to the machine ---> Often get clogged up by molten plastic, making the assembly difficult and require cleaning between each cycle - --Unmolding takes time---> Threaded mold connectors create undercut shapes, making unmolding difficult - - -Here are the specifications that the upgrade system must achieve: - -1- Allow molds to be attached and detached from the machine in 1 movement -2- Reduce uncomfortable position for the operator -3- Reduce production waste -4- Be usable with gloves easily -5- Reduce cycle time -6- Do not require cleaning between each cycle - -The trick is to use a brass garden hose connector, available in gardening and home improvement store, to easily connect your mold ans be more efficient! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-automatic-connection-upgrade/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-automatic-connection-upgrade/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 3bd63d6f1..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-automatic-connection-upgrade/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,18 +0,0 @@ -### Bill of materials: - - You'll need : - -x1 1 inch female brass garden hose connector with EXTERNAL threads (picture n°2) -x2 1/2" inch male brass garden hose connector (or any other size depending on what fits on your mold), with INTERNAL threads (picture n°3) -x1 1/2" inch brass endcap (picture n°1) -You'll find all of this in your local hardware/gardening store. - -1 - 14mm long piece of M14 threaded rod (or a 14mm diameter round stock (Edit: for this tutorial I used M 14 threaded rod because the exterior diameter is the right size for the application, but you can use any other 14mm round stock you have on hand, the exterior threads are not needed) - -1- 10mm drill bit -A drill and a vise - -ATTENTION: Buy the right hardware for your particular machine and mold! Check dimensions - -Metric to inch equivalent: -1/2 " = 15x21 threads \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-automatic-connection-upgrade/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-automatic-connection-upgrade/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 61a5a4125..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-automatic-connection-upgrade/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Spacer fabrication - - The first step is to fabricate a spacer: basically a 14mm diameter cylinder with a 10 mm hole in the middle (see plans below). -You can use M14 threaded rod a screw as it is easily available, but a 14 mm round stock is ok. - -Using a drill and a vise, drill a 10 mm hole trough the hole spacer. - -Make sure your spacer fits nicely in both the male connector and the 1/4 inch adaptor to prevent leakage later on. - - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-automatic-connection-upgrade/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-automatic-connection-upgrade/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 17c1fb6b5..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-automatic-connection-upgrade/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,24 +0,0 @@ -### Assembly steps - - I-Modify your mold - - - - 1- Place the spacer inside your mold's ½ inch connector, it should fit inside snugly and fill the most of the empty space. - - 2- Screw the male brass connector on top of it - - 3- Drill with the 10 mm drill trough all the parts to enlarge the hole diameter up to 10 mm. - - Be careful to drill right in the center, otherwise you can damage the threads. - -You'll have to repeat those steps for each one of your molds (once the mold have been used, it is inconvenient to remove the male connector and spacer inside, it is easier to fit all your molds with male connectors) - - -II- Assemble your plug: - - - Simply take the second male connector and screw it to the end cap --> Here's your new plug :) (Picture n°1) - -III- Modify your injection machine - - -Unscrew the current threaded nozzle of your machine and replace it with the brass female connector! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-automatic-connection-upgrade/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-automatic-connection-upgrade/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index e266bea40..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-automatic-connection-upgrade/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,15 +0,0 @@ -### Instructions for operation - - 1 - Prepare your mold as usual and heat up your machine - -2- When you are ready to inject, remove the plug by simply lifting the female connector exterior ring (picture n°2) - -3-Push your mold up into the connector, it will automatically latch onto it and make a nice "click" sound - -4- Inject your mold - -5- To remove the mold, just lift the female connector exterior ring and get your mold, then place the plug back inside. - -6-Repeat :) - -Using this method, I was able to pull out about 15 injections/ hour, which is way more than I used to. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-automatic-connection-upgrade/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-automatic-connection-upgrade/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 72797d777..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-automatic-connection-upgrade/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### No more undercut shapes! - - The piece of rod is here to fill the void inside the male connector. The molten plastic can then flows through the 10 mm round channel, and the sprue can be pulled out from the mold easily (Picture N°1) - -ATTENTION: Don't forget the spacer, otherwise you are going to have a bad time unmold (picture n°2). \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-connection-upgradedraft/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-connection-upgradedraft/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index f0d703a37..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-connection-upgradedraft/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Injection Machine Connection Upgrade![draft] - - -This How-To will show you how to upgrade your injection machine and molds to make your injection process faster, safer, and more efficient! -This trick works on any injection mold that have a threaded connection to the machine nozzle. Install a brass garden hose connector and voilà! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-connection-upgradedraft/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-connection-upgradedraft/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9a9fbeabf..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-connection-upgradedraft/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,22 +0,0 @@ -### The problems with injection - - The injection machine is a great tool to raise awareness about plastic pollution and demonstrate the plastic recycling process. -However if you need to produce many parts, the process can be a little slow and difficult. - -Here are the main problems in my opinion: - --Molds are hard to attach to the machine ---> Often get clogged up by molten plastic, making the assembly difficult and require cleaning between each cycle - --Unmolding takes time---> Threaded mold connectors create undercut shapes, making unmolding difficult - - -Here are the specifications that the upgrade system must achieve: - -1- Allow molds to be attached and detached from the machine in 1 movement -2- Reduce uncomfortable position for the operator -3- Reduce production waste -4- Be usable with gloves easily -5- Reduce cycle time -6- Do not require cleaning between each cycle - -The trick is to use a brass garden hose connector, available in gardening and home improvement store, to easily connect your mold ans be more efficient! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-connection-upgradedraft/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-connection-upgradedraft/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 3bd63d6f1..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-connection-upgradedraft/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,18 +0,0 @@ -### Bill of materials: - - You'll need : - -x1 1 inch female brass garden hose connector with EXTERNAL threads (picture n°2) -x2 1/2" inch male brass garden hose connector (or any other size depending on what fits on your mold), with INTERNAL threads (picture n°3) -x1 1/2" inch brass endcap (picture n°1) -You'll find all of this in your local hardware/gardening store. - -1 - 14mm long piece of M14 threaded rod (or a 14mm diameter round stock (Edit: for this tutorial I used M 14 threaded rod because the exterior diameter is the right size for the application, but you can use any other 14mm round stock you have on hand, the exterior threads are not needed) - -1- 10mm drill bit -A drill and a vise - -ATTENTION: Buy the right hardware for your particular machine and mold! Check dimensions - -Metric to inch equivalent: -1/2 " = 15x21 threads \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-connection-upgradedraft/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-connection-upgradedraft/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 61a5a4125..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-connection-upgradedraft/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Spacer fabrication - - The first step is to fabricate a spacer: basically a 14mm diameter cylinder with a 10 mm hole in the middle (see plans below). -You can use M14 threaded rod a screw as it is easily available, but a 14 mm round stock is ok. - -Using a drill and a vise, drill a 10 mm hole trough the hole spacer. - -Make sure your spacer fits nicely in both the male connector and the 1/4 inch adaptor to prevent leakage later on. - - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-connection-upgradedraft/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-connection-upgradedraft/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 17c1fb6b5..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-connection-upgradedraft/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,24 +0,0 @@ -### Assembly steps - - I-Modify your mold - - - - 1- Place the spacer inside your mold's ½ inch connector, it should fit inside snugly and fill the most of the empty space. - - 2- Screw the male brass connector on top of it - - 3- Drill with the 10 mm drill trough all the parts to enlarge the hole diameter up to 10 mm. - - Be careful to drill right in the center, otherwise you can damage the threads. - -You'll have to repeat those steps for each one of your molds (once the mold have been used, it is inconvenient to remove the male connector and spacer inside, it is easier to fit all your molds with male connectors) - - -II- Assemble your plug: - - - Simply take the second male connector and screw it to the end cap --> Here's your new plug :) (Picture n°1) - -III- Modify your injection machine - - -Unscrew the current threaded nozzle of your machine and replace it with the brass female connector! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-connection-upgradedraft/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-connection-upgradedraft/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index e266bea40..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-connection-upgradedraft/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,15 +0,0 @@ -### Instructions for operation - - 1 - Prepare your mold as usual and heat up your machine - -2- When you are ready to inject, remove the plug by simply lifting the female connector exterior ring (picture n°2) - -3-Push your mold up into the connector, it will automatically latch onto it and make a nice "click" sound - -4- Inject your mold - -5- To remove the mold, just lift the female connector exterior ring and get your mold, then place the plug back inside. - -6-Repeat :) - -Using this method, I was able to pull out about 15 injections/ hour, which is way more than I used to. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-connection-upgradedraft/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-connection-upgradedraft/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 72797d777..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-connection-upgradedraft/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### No more undercut shapes! - - The piece of rod is here to fill the void inside the male connector. The molten plastic can then flows through the 10 mm round channel, and the sprue can be pulled out from the mold easily (Picture N°1) - -ATTENTION: Don't forget the spacer, otherwise you are going to have a bad time unmold (picture n°2). \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-quick-connect-upgrade/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-quick-connect-upgrade/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index c20e264c2..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-quick-connect-upgrade/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Injection Machine Quick Connect Upgrade - - -This How-To will show you how to upgrade your injection machine and molds to make your injection process faster, safer, and more efficient! -This trick works on any injection mold that have a threaded connection to the machine nozzle. Install a brass garden hose connector and voilà! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-quick-connect-upgrade/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-quick-connect-upgrade/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 5b7e13be1..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-quick-connect-upgrade/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,20 +0,0 @@ -### The problems with injection - - The injection machine is a great tool to raise awareness about plastic pollution and demonstrate the plastic recycling process. -However if you need to produce many parts, the process can be a little tedious and wasteful: - --Threaded Connection ---> Often get clogged up by molten plastic, making the assembly difficult and require cleaning between each cycle - --Hard to demold ---> Mold connector creates undercut shapes and is hard to demold - -Here are the specifications that the upgrade system must achieve: - -1- Allow molds to be attached and detached from the machine in 1 movement -2- Reduce uncomfortable position for the operator -3- Reduce production waste -4- Be usable with gloves easily -5- Reduce cycle time -6- Revoke the need for a plug -7- Do not require cleaning between each cycle - -The trick is to use a brass garden hose connector, available in gardening and home improvement store, to easily connect your mold ans be more efficient! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-quick-connect-upgrade/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-quick-connect-upgrade/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 1fb69825a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-quick-connect-upgrade/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11 +0,0 @@ -### Bill of materials: - - You'll need : - -1 - ¾ inch female brass garden hose connector with threads -2 - ½ inch male brass garden hose connector (or any other size depending on what fits on your mold), with INSIDE threads -1- ½ inch brass endcap -1 - 1 cm long piece of M14 threaded rod (or a 14mm diameter round) -1- 10mm drill bit - -ATTENTION: Buy the right hardware! See pictures diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-quick-connect-upgrade/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-quick-connect-upgrade/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4fb3ce35f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-quick-connect-upgrade/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,13 +0,0 @@ -### Assembly - - For this step you will need a drill and a vise or even better a drill press . - -1- Drill a 10 mm hole trough the piece of M14 threaded rod - -2- Place this part inside your mold ½ connector, it should fit inside and fill the space. - -3- Screw the male connector on top of it - -4- Drill with the 10 mm drill trough all the parts to enlarge the hole diameter. - -5- Take the second male connector and screw it to the endcap --> Here's your new plug :) . \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-quick-connect-upgrade/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-quick-connect-upgrade/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index c231872e1..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-quick-connect-upgrade/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### No more undercut! - - The piece of rod is here to fill the space inside the ½ inch connector. The molten plastic then flows trough the 10 mm round channel, and the sprue can be pulled out from the mold easely! -If you forget the spacer \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-x-hydraulic-log-splitter/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-x-hydraulic-log-splitter/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index ca88cace5..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-x-hydraulic-log-splitter/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Injection Machine X Hydraulic Log Splitter - - -This 'how-to' overviews our injection mould machine hack and contains a walk-through of our process. - -It's worth noting: THIS MACHINE IS DANGEROUS and it was built to help us produce parts with thick walls that required a lot of pressure and may not but suitable for all workshops. - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-x-hydraulic-log-splitter/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-x-hydraulic-log-splitter/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index e6946dccd..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-machine-x-hydraulic-log-splitter/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,29 +0,0 @@ -### What you'll need - - Barrel: - -• as per PP download kit -• Steel to weld barrel to machine -• Nuts, bolts and washers x 4 - -Injection Rod: - -• as per PP download kit -• bored out to fit M12 thread -• Steel to weld and slot over splitting knife - -Hopper: - -• your design, 3D printed or laser cut - -Electrics: -• as per PP download kit -• load cell or something to monitor the pressure if required - -Log splitter: - -• 2200W 5t Electric Log Splitter. -Here is the link the the version we purchased -https://www.bunnings.com.au/homelite-2200w-5t-electric-log-splitter_p0044725 - - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-wall-mount/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/injection-wall-mount/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index bcac60893..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-wall-mount/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Injection wall mount - - -The version 2 of our injection machines comes with a basic frame that keeps it standing. Easy peasy. However, how cool would that be to mount your injection machine on the wall? \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-wall-mount/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/injection-wall-mount/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7f28a504b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-wall-mount/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Get ready - - We have created a simple wall mount so you don’t need to make the entire bottom half of the frame. Moreover, this mount makes the machine way more stable and solid. Nothing moves. However, keep in mind that it doesn’t fit every place and you can’t move it around anymore. You can find the technical drawing in our download-kit. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-wall-mount/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/injection-wall-mount/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 58d315b1e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-wall-mount/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Cut, drill, weld and paint - - Follow the dimensions shown in the download files and cut your materials to size. Once cut you can drill the parts as needed. - -With your parts ready, position them together and weld. - -After welding you can add some paint for a better look and extended life. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-wall-mount/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/injection-wall-mount/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 270786e3e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/injection-wall-mount/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Mount your machine - - Now you can connect your bracket to the wall and hang your injection machine. Be sure to put it in the right place. - -Done :) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/innovative-sustainable-pieces-of-furniture-/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/innovative-sustainable-pieces-of-furniture-/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index bf11ea5d5..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/innovative-sustainable-pieces-of-furniture-/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Innovative sustainable pieces of furniture - - -Piece of furniture made of BPC Bamboo Plastic Composite panels. a Bench and a Rack made of composite panels with cnc cut. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/innovative-sustainable-pieces-of-furniture-/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/innovative-sustainable-pieces-of-furniture-/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 3c564f460..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/innovative-sustainable-pieces-of-furniture-/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Make the panel - - Prepare the material mold and press the composite into the thermpress, after a few minutes we have a panel. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/innovative-sustainable-pieces-of-furniture-/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/innovative-sustainable-pieces-of-furniture-/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7722beab4..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/innovative-sustainable-pieces-of-furniture-/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### MATERIAL COMPOSITE - - Mix the Plastic pieces with the bamboo residues in an extrusor, wait for half an hour and then pick up parts. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/innovative-sustainable-pieces-of-furniture-/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/innovative-sustainable-pieces-of-furniture-/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index e3d9e061a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/innovative-sustainable-pieces-of-furniture-/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### CNC panel to make the bench - - Cut a CNC panel to make the bench, it is a three parts bench, after we have fixed the parts, it's quite easy. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/insulate-the-injectionextrusion-barrel/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/insulate-the-injectionextrusion-barrel/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 635558ded..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/insulate-the-injectionextrusion-barrel/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Insulate the Injection/Extrusion barrel - - -Insulation makes the machines more efficient and safe to use. -Easy peasy :) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/insulate-the-injectionextrusion-barrel/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/insulate-the-injectionextrusion-barrel/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index b5ec620d0..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/insulate-the-injectionextrusion-barrel/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,12 +0,0 @@ -### Get ready - - This is a pretty simple upgrade. There are many ways to insulate barrels, but in this example we have gone with using some steel mesh and hand-bent brackets. - -Before you begin, you should have: -- Hammer -- Vice -- Drill -- Steel mesh -- Insulation wool -- Scrap metal (flat bar) -- Nuts & Bolts diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/insulate-the-injectionextrusion-barrel/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/insulate-the-injectionextrusion-barrel/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 46b30bbce..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/insulate-the-injectionextrusion-barrel/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Cut the mesh - - To begin, calculate the circumference you want your insulation cover to wrap around. - -Remember to add a bit extra for the tabs and then cut your mesh with a grinder or tin snips. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/insulate-the-injectionextrusion-barrel/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/insulate-the-injectionextrusion-barrel/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 88ff77fc9..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/insulate-the-injectionextrusion-barrel/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Form the mesh - - Now find something cylindrical to use in order to shape your mesh into the desired shape. We have used a gas tank, but you could use another piece of steel. Get creative! - -Tip: You might need to hammer it a bit smaller after your first shaping because metal often has a ‘springback’ and may be too big. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/insulate-the-injectionextrusion-barrel/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/insulate-the-injectionextrusion-barrel/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 58ee31857..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/insulate-the-injectionextrusion-barrel/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Centering brackets - - These brackets will connect and hold the cover around the barrel. Find a small pipe, around the same size as your barrel, and shape the strips around it. Make sure one bracket has longer tabs to be used for centering. - -Use your hammer to shape the tabs to the shape you want and drill some holes for bolting. You can finally weld or bolt the bigger bracket to the mesh. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/insulate-the-injectionextrusion-barrel/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/insulate-the-injectionextrusion-barrel/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 343c98eae..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/insulate-the-injectionextrusion-barrel/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Fill with fluff - - Now with your cover finished, all you need to do is stuff the cover full of your insulation wool. -Done! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/interconnecting-zephyr-block-mould/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/interconnecting-zephyr-block-mould/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 748fc39d6..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/interconnecting-zephyr-block-mould/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Interconnecting Zephyr Block Mould - - -Here we'll show you how to make our Zephyr Block, designed in Melbourne, Australia! Interlocking to create all sorts of structures while making use of heaps of plastic destined for landfill. - -In the folder you will find: -1. Steel sheet parts (.DXF) -2. Mould core (.STP) -3. Part identification guide \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/interconnecting-zephyr-block-mould/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/interconnecting-zephyr-block-mould/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index d9b7522a3..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/interconnecting-zephyr-block-mould/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,19 +0,0 @@ -### Mould production - - What you’ll need: - -- Approx. 800x500mm sheet of 10mm steel -- 2 x machined steel/alloy core elements -- Welder -- Deburring tool - -- Bolts for fabrication: -M8 x 20mm (8) -M10 x 20mm (2) -M12 x 25mm (4) - -- Nuts, Bolts & Washers for manufacturing: -M10 x 110mm (10) -M10 Washers (20) -M10 Nuts or Wingnuts (10) -½″ BSP Nut (stainless steel) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/interconnecting-zephyr-block-mould/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/interconnecting-zephyr-block-mould/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index e5f3306f0..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/interconnecting-zephyr-block-mould/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Making the parts - - Using the DXF file above, cut each of the 14 pieces from 10mm steel. Using the sheet for engraving, mark the insides of each plate, and on the edges of each tab to guide putting the mould together. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/interconnecting-zephyr-block-mould/step_10.md b/resources/howtos-oa/interconnecting-zephyr-block-mould/step_10.md deleted file mode 100644 index c716c9d9b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/interconnecting-zephyr-block-mould/step_10.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### How we made it: Bricks for a community garden - - A video overview of how we turned 91,500 discarded plastic bottle caps into recycled blocks for a community garden. Give it a watch :) - \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/interconnecting-zephyr-block-mould/step_11.md b/resources/howtos-oa/interconnecting-zephyr-block-mould/step_11.md deleted file mode 100644 index d3582e89f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/interconnecting-zephyr-block-mould/step_11.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Explore the possibilities - - Build to your heart's content through the creation of a wide variety of structures - think office partitions, furniture, garden beds and more - whilst diverting large volumes of plastic from landfill. - -Get inspired by how we used ours to build a community garden! Read the full Case Study here: https://www.plastic.org.au/pages/case-study-bedford-park \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/interconnecting-zephyr-block-mould/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/interconnecting-zephyr-block-mould/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index a7c5d5200..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/interconnecting-zephyr-block-mould/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11 +0,0 @@ -### Connecting mould components - - The circle and square pieces plus the two core components need to be permanently affixed to the following panels: - -- Connect the steel circles to the panels, as per the part identification guide using M10 x 20 bolts. The circles are movable but are key to ensuring that each brick fits over each other, check before filling the mould. - -- Affix the alloy cores to each top panel, as indicated in the identification guide using M12 x 25mm bolts. - -- Attach the smaller square plate to the part labeled 5/E (outer); and the larger square plate to the circle end of the 2/B/3/C core panel (outer), using the M8 x 20mm bolts. - -- Finally, weld the ½″ BSP nut (stainless steel) to the 1/A panel, to aid your connection to your extruder. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/interconnecting-zephyr-block-mould/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/interconnecting-zephyr-block-mould/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 6f5ff9892..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/interconnecting-zephyr-block-mould/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Prepare material - - The mould requires about 1.5 kilograms of shredded HDPE, so have this ready to be fed into your hopper. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/interconnecting-zephyr-block-mould/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/interconnecting-zephyr-block-mould/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 352124ed0..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/interconnecting-zephyr-block-mould/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Prepare machine - - Affixing your fitting to your extruder, turn on the machine to melt the plastic you are using. - -When ready, feed into the hopper. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/interconnecting-zephyr-block-mould/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/interconnecting-zephyr-block-mould/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index abb53d70a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/interconnecting-zephyr-block-mould/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Prepare the mould + other required items - - While waiting for the plastic to melt, assemble the mould by laying one of the base plates down, and putting each tabbed end into its corresponding hole. One side connects numbers (1-10) or letters (A-J). Tighten each corner with your M10 bolts, washer and nut/wingnut. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/interconnecting-zephyr-block-mould/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/interconnecting-zephyr-block-mould/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index 761366a22..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/interconnecting-zephyr-block-mould/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Attach the mould - - Connect your mould to the extruder securely. The mould should be sitting up vertically (rather than laying flat). \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/interconnecting-zephyr-block-mould/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/interconnecting-zephyr-block-mould/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2e3d9f964..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/interconnecting-zephyr-block-mould/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Fill the mould - - Running a machine at 180°C, at a speed of 35hz, the mould will fill in approximately 6 minutes. Watch the vent at the back of the mould for the first bubble of plastic to appear, and turn off the machine and remove the mould. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/interconnecting-zephyr-block-mould/step_8.md b/resources/howtos-oa/interconnecting-zephyr-block-mould/step_8.md deleted file mode 100644 index b6b13e154..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/interconnecting-zephyr-block-mould/step_8.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Opening the mould - - Using heatproof gloves, open the mould by laying it on one of its plates and undoing each bolt/ nut. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/interconnecting-zephyr-block-mould/step_9.md b/resources/howtos-oa/interconnecting-zephyr-block-mould/step_9.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7c3224c7e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/interconnecting-zephyr-block-mould/step_9.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Cool the product - - Once removed from the mould, drop into a water bath to speed up the cooling process. - \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/interlocking-brick-mould/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/interlocking-brick-mould/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 0af3f3030..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/interlocking-brick-mould/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Interlocking brick mould - - -Here we'll show you how to make a brick using the injection machine and the mould we designed in Chiangmai, Thailand. A beautiful, functional model. - -From: BOPE, Thailand \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/interlocking-brick-mould/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/interlocking-brick-mould/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 43b98ee6f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/interlocking-brick-mould/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Get ready - - What you need: Injection machine, mould making tools -This is our workspace in Chiangmai. :) diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/interlocking-brick-mould/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/interlocking-brick-mould/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 6d32f2997..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/interlocking-brick-mould/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Idea and first drawing - - We wanted to develop a product that can have many functions. So we decided to figure out a shape that can be adapted or compliment one another to get a variety of uses. Finally we decided to draw a curved shape. The idea of this shape is to be attached to each other like a Lego. You can use this design as a plant pot or connect it as a partition and build a wall. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/interlocking-brick-mould/step_10.md b/resources/howtos-oa/interlocking-brick-mould/step_10.md deleted file mode 100644 index 6088f5354..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/interlocking-brick-mould/step_10.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Finish the product - - Last finishes. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/interlocking-brick-mould/step_11.md b/resources/howtos-oa/interlocking-brick-mould/step_11.md deleted file mode 100644 index c9ab555d7..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/interlocking-brick-mould/step_11.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Explore the possibilities! - - You can use this for Flower Pots. Or You can make more & more for a partition or the wall. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/interlocking-brick-mould/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/interlocking-brick-mould/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 43319f3a1..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/interlocking-brick-mould/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Make the 3D drawing - - First of all, we would like to tell you that our mould design is highly detailed and takes a lot of time to craft. The mould should be made from aluminum with CNC machine. To be easy for you all, please download our mould design above. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/interlocking-brick-mould/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/interlocking-brick-mould/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index c9bc85100..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/interlocking-brick-mould/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Machining the mould - - Using the Sketchup file above to make the mould. We used the CNC Machine from a local manufacturer in Chiangmai. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/interlocking-brick-mould/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/interlocking-brick-mould/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index ad9f9aed4..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/interlocking-brick-mould/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Prepare for injecting - - Tools you need for injecting: -Wrench -Bolt x 8 pieces -Nut x 8 pieces -Bolt & Nut for locking x 1 set -Electric drill -Cutter diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/interlocking-brick-mould/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/interlocking-brick-mould/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index c9fe02e4d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/interlocking-brick-mould/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Prepare your material - - Prepare your shredded plastic. For this product we use PP. For one brick you will need around 300 gram. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/interlocking-brick-mould/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/interlocking-brick-mould/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index 1f0852e26..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/interlocking-brick-mould/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Injection time! - - Turn on the Injection machine (180°C) and wait for it to heat up. -When the temperature is ready, you can put the shredded PP into the Machine. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/interlocking-brick-mould/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/interlocking-brick-mould/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index 93ce003d4..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/interlocking-brick-mould/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Prepare the mould - - While waiting for the plastic to melt, you can assemble the mould. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/interlocking-brick-mould/step_8.md b/resources/howtos-oa/interlocking-brick-mould/step_8.md deleted file mode 100644 index 912d6079a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/interlocking-brick-mould/step_8.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Press - - When both your machine and the mould are ready, connect the mould to the injection machine. Then press it! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/interlocking-brick-mould/step_9.md b/resources/howtos-oa/interlocking-brick-mould/step_9.md deleted file mode 100644 index 6d991dd97..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/interlocking-brick-mould/step_9.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Detach the mould - - Wait for the moudl to cool down. Then detach and carefully open the mould to take out your freshly baked recycled plastic brick! -Remove the injection channel with a little scissor or knife \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/jaloer-hijaoe/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/jaloer-hijaoe/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 646d7bc85..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/jaloer-hijaoe/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Jaloer Hijaoe - - -I just started the Jaloer Hijaoe community with a garbage bank where I exchanged plastic with 1 tree seedling \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/jaloer-hijaoe/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/jaloer-hijaoe/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index ebea0074f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/jaloer-hijaoe/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Plastic waste = 1 tree seed - - the plastic trash that you exchange will be processed into a handicraft through the Jaloer Hijaoe waste bank \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/jewelry-making-with-iron/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/jewelry-making-with-iron/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 6cabd37a8..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/jewelry-making-with-iron/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,22 +0,0 @@ -### Jewelry making with iron - - -A guide by PRECIOUS PLASTIC BREMEN! - -We show you how you can make beautiful jewelry from shredded plastic using simple household resources. ---- -The tutorial was designed to be carried out as a workshop and initially tested by an 11 year old girl. - -You just need -- an iron -- a little bit of (shredded) plastic -- baking paper -- wooden sticks (e.g. from ice cream) -- cardboard -- table or ironing board -- Heavy object or screw clamps -- A timer -- A scissors -- hooks, rings, ribbons - -You can download a guide in German \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/jewelry-making-with-iron/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/jewelry-making-with-iron/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 078fd62d5..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/jewelry-making-with-iron/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Arranging - - Arrange wooden sticks on a smooth surface and baking paper. If necessary, place cardboard underneath. If you use a table than cardboard is necessary so that the table does not turn brown from the heat. -The mould cannot be larger than the iron! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/jewelry-making-with-iron/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/jewelry-making-with-iron/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index e14bf45dd..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/jewelry-making-with-iron/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Pouring - - Pour shredded plastic into the mold. Make sure there is enough! Be careful that the plastic is insight of the mould. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/jewelry-making-with-iron/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/jewelry-making-with-iron/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index cc2c0b6dd..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/jewelry-making-with-iron/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Distributing - - Distribute the shredded plastic well in the mold. Note that the plastic reaches until the wooden sticks. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/jewelry-making-with-iron/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/jewelry-making-with-iron/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index d354c737d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/jewelry-making-with-iron/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Covering - - Cover the mould with the plastic with baking paper. Make sure that the paper is big enough to cover the hole plastic. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/jewelry-making-with-iron/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/jewelry-making-with-iron/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 781659866..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/jewelry-making-with-iron/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Hot pressing - - Press with a very hot iron for about 5 minutes on each side until the plastic melts. You don‘t have to press with your hand all the time, but in any case at the beginning. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/jewelry-making-with-iron/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/jewelry-making-with-iron/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2c25119d0..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/jewelry-making-with-iron/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Cold pressing - - Press the melted plastic between two boards until it cools. It is possible to place a heavy object on top. Or you can also use screw clamps. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/jewelry-making-with-iron/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/jewelry-making-with-iron/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index 3a6f5d097..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/jewelry-making-with-iron/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Removing sticks - - Remove the wooden sticks. Sometime it's not so easy. You can also use a scissors. (Be careful with microplastics!) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/jewelry-making-with-iron/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/jewelry-making-with-iron/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index 0f58e40c0..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/jewelry-making-with-iron/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Cutting - - The plastic plate is ready... -Cut out the desired shape with sharp scissors (be careful with microplastic!) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/jewelry-making-with-iron/step_8.md b/resources/howtos-oa/jewelry-making-with-iron/step_8.md deleted file mode 100644 index 12aa3e04f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/jewelry-making-with-iron/step_8.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Stinging holes - - Using a hot needle or other method you can sting the necessary holes in the plastic. Using a drill is also possible (be careful with microplastic!) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/jewelry-making-with-iron/step_9.md b/resources/howtos-oa/jewelry-making-with-iron/step_9.md deleted file mode 100644 index 3ffec523e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/jewelry-making-with-iron/step_9.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Earrings, pendants, keychains - - For earrings: attach metal rings and hooks and add additional beads if desired. -For pendants: attach metal rings and ribbons -For keychain: attach metal rings and keyring - - -We hope you have fun upycling and creating! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/joost-arbor-press/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/joost-arbor-press/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index e65782cfe..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/joost-arbor-press/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Joost Arbor Press - - -Joost's Arbor Press is a machine based on the original design of the Injection machine made by Precious Plastic -(https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/build/injection) - -This machine solves two main problems: Ergonomics, that was directly affecting the user experience and therefore productivity and the pressure, which was bringing a big limitation for what we could make with this machine. - -In this how-to you'll find the download files and the requirements to build and run this machine yourself :) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/joost-arbor-press/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/joost-arbor-press/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 69d3032b8..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/joost-arbor-press/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Download - - First off, here is your download package for this machine! - -In this folder you will find: -- 3D CAD (.step and .f3d) -- Lasercut files (.dxf) -- Blueprints (.pdf) -- Schematics -- BOM \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/joost-arbor-press/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/joost-arbor-press/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index ad39fb4e0..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/joost-arbor-press/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,16 +0,0 @@ -### Build - - These are the required skills and machinery you or your machine builder will need to have access to: - -- General metalworking (cutting, drilling) -- Welding -- Turning (machining on a lathe) -- Milling (machining on a mill) -- Laser cutting -- General electrical work (wiring safety switch, temperature controllers…) -- Painting - -âš™ï¸ Machinery / specific tools needed: -- Grinder, chop saw, MIG/MAG or TIG, drill press -- Lathe, mill (CNC) -- Laser cutting (this can easily be subcontracted around the world) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/joost-arbor-press/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/joost-arbor-press/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 27ad9a084..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/joost-arbor-press/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Inject! - - - We recommend to place your machine in a leveled floor and it's even better if you can screw the machine to the floor too for more stability. -- Always make sure to wear the safety equipment when running this machine (high heat resistant gloves, goggles, gas mask and safety clothing), also a well ventilated area is highly recommended. -- When purchasing moulds, make sure they come with chamfered nozzle (not threaded) so that they can fit nicely with the cap nut used for the nozzle. - - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/joost-arbor-press/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/joost-arbor-press/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 287c169ed..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/joost-arbor-press/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,16 +0,0 @@ -### Create, share back and Sell :) - - Start creating! -You'll be able to produce a large variety of products like tiles, pots, sunglass frames and more. -Have a look at the How-to's to find inspiration for injection moulds or products: -👉 https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to?tags=JVpo3tdEqbk8G787hAZH - -Buy and sell on the Bazar! -On the Precious Plastic Bazar you can buy moulds or parts for this machine - or sell your own creations and machines! -👉 bazar.preciousplastic.com - -And if you replicate this machine and improve it, dont forget to share back! :) or if you have question on how to build it, join us on Discord 👉 https://discord.com/invite/rnx7m4t - -If you want to know about the design process take a look at this video 👉 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jWbkIa0ncIU - -Happy melting! 🤗 \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/jump-rope-handles-mould/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/jump-rope-handles-mould/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 3b8785fbd..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/jump-rope-handles-mould/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Jump rope handles mould - - -Jump rope is a nice tool for keeping fit. This mould allows making a jump rope handle. It is intended for the injection machine and is quite easy in operation. - -Depending on the injection machine arrangement, some modifications to the mould might be needed. - -Local price ±120 EUR \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/jump-rope-handles-mould/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/jump-rope-handles-mould/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index eaac6bbcb..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/jump-rope-handles-mould/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Download - - The design consists of 4 lasercut plates, a pipe and an insert. The files include all necessary formats to order the mould from a local fabrication. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/jump-rope-handles-mould/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/jump-rope-handles-mould/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 38ef3bac4..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/jump-rope-handles-mould/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Manufacture - - The pipe and the insert require metal machining - lathe work. This were ordered from a local fabrication. Drawings included. -The plates are lasercut. - -The thicker plates hold the pipe and insert. One of the thicker plates attaches the insert with a bolt. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/jump-rope-handles-mould/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/jump-rope-handles-mould/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 984a13d79..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/jump-rope-handles-mould/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,15 +0,0 @@ -### Inject the handles - - The injection moulding process starts with preparation of the machine, the material and the mould. - -Material suitability: -PP [5] - fills the mould nicely and with no problems. -HDPE [2] - more viscous and requires higher injection pressure. From our experience very challenging to work with this mould. - -The mould needs to have a proper adapter/connection method. We use a car jack to push the mould inlet onto the injection nozzle. - -Some lubrication is needed on the insert bit. If the product is left to cool for too long on the insert, it tends to shrink and get stuck on the insert. The best way to release is to use rubberized gloves and pull in the twisty/rotating manner. - -Follow-up: the injection point needs to be clipped off with pliers/ knife and a hole should be drilled at the end with a drill bit 6-8mm in diameter. It is easier to drill from the inside of the jump rope handle with a longer drill bit. - -To finish the jump rope, we use 6mm rPET paracord type rope (recycled). \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/key-hanger/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/key-hanger/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index e77bf4b02..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/key-hanger/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Key Hanger - - -It is an ideal key holder to use with carabiners. -At its ends you can hang glasses, keys, chinstraps. -It is attached to the wall with screws. -We start from a 5mm HDPE sheet. -*in the how to section, you can find how to make a recycled plastic sheet with various methods. Otherwise, in the bazaar or in the precious plastic network you can find someone to buy from. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/key-hanger/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/key-hanger/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index cbd2ba7be..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/key-hanger/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Ready set go - - Download the attached .dxf file and choose a 5mm thick sheet. Cut with cnc router. -*If this is your first time, we recommend using a 1-edged 4mm diameter mill for cuts. To make the bending, it is ideal to use a composite aluminum bending mill at a max depth of 3 mm diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/key-hanger/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/key-hanger/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8eeb731d1..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/key-hanger/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Folded - - Release all the pieces of the sheet and fold using a heat gun. Heat the area on both sides and push using a wooden rod or some other material that does not stick to the hot piece. Prior to this, make the wooden mold as seen in the image to cool, making two cuts the width of the key hanger. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/key-hanger/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/key-hanger/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index e8f0c448b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/key-hanger/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Placement - - Make two holes in the wall and use the necessary fixing elements according to the material to be drilled. First the part with the perforations must be fixed to the wall and then the second part must be embedded. -To place the horizontal we must thread from one of the sides, through one of the inserts. -Clever! The horizontal piece that holds the keys will not come off because it has a small grimace that prevents displacement. Enjoy the key hanger diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/lamp/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/lamp/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2bb369335..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/lamp/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Lamp - - -In this tutorial you will learn how to create a lamp from a small plastic sheet, round injections and injections ! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/lamp/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/lamp/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index e9f3ad607..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/lamp/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Cut and sand down - - First, cut the basement with a jigsaw. You can find the file of the plane above 👆. You can sand down it. -Secondly, prepare the injected pieces for the lampshade : cut the excess plastic and sand down it. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/lamp/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/lamp/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index c1c965dc2..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/lamp/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Crate the lampshade - - Sand down the pieces if they need it and assemble ! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/lamp/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/lamp/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 36e17a330..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/lamp/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Assemble the basement with the - - Fold the sheet with a folding machine. Drill and make a slot in a round extrusion and assemble it with the basement. -Assemble the lampshade with the basement using clamps and two extruded plastic trunnions. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/lamp/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/lamp/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 6814dafc1..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/lamp/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Put the bulb ! - - Put the bulb on the lampshade and turn on the light ! - -TIPS : we decided to add some PET thread to consolidate the structure of the lampshade and we heated it slowly with a heat gun. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/lampshade-from-recycled-bottle-cap/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/lampshade-from-recycled-bottle-cap/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8393aa73f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/lampshade-from-recycled-bottle-cap/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Lampshade from Recycled Bottle Cap - - -We will show you how to bend a recycled plastic sheet from the sheet press without heat or mold. - -This technique is inspired by a woodworking technique called ‘kerfing’. Kerfing is a wood bending method done without water or steam. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/lampshade-from-recycled-bottle-cap/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/lampshade-from-recycled-bottle-cap/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7b9f4651d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/lampshade-from-recycled-bottle-cap/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Prepare all the materials and tools - - Here’s what you need: -- The HDPE plastic board that you’re going to bend: - - 30 cm x 10,5 cm, 5 mm (thickness)
 - - ⌀9,5 cm, 5 mm (thickness) 
 -- A portable sanding machine
 -- A soldering iron
 -- A table saw -- Rope
 diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/lampshade-from-recycled-bottle-cap/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/lampshade-from-recycled-bottle-cap/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 03bf5af7d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/lampshade-from-recycled-bottle-cap/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Score the plastic - - First, we’re using the table saw to score the plastic. Cut 3 mm in depth while keeping a 5 mm distance between each cut. Make sure you’re scoring the board perpendicular to the direction of the bend. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/lampshade-from-recycled-bottle-cap/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/lampshade-from-recycled-bottle-cap/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2caade821..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/lampshade-from-recycled-bottle-cap/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Thin out the end sides of the plastic board - - Thin out the end sides of the plastic board using a portable sanding machine so that the sides will fit better in the next step. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/lampshade-from-recycled-bottle-cap/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/lampshade-from-recycled-bottle-cap/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index a40be3264..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/lampshade-from-recycled-bottle-cap/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Bend it - - Now bend it carefully! Use a rope to tighten it in place. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/lampshade-from-recycled-bottle-cap/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/lampshade-from-recycled-bottle-cap/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 394168eb0..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/lampshade-from-recycled-bottle-cap/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Weld the end pieces of plastic - - With the help of a soldering iron, weld the end pieces of plastic together. Make sure you do it well. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/lampshade-from-recycled-bottle-cap/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/lampshade-from-recycled-bottle-cap/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 997530bb1..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/lampshade-from-recycled-bottle-cap/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Smooth out the welded part - - Now back to the sanding machine again. Smooth out the welded part to get that nice and evenly joint. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/lampshade-from-recycled-bottle-cap/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/lampshade-from-recycled-bottle-cap/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index 15af31469..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/lampshade-from-recycled-bottle-cap/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Done! - - And voilà! Your beautiful, eco-friendly lampshade is done. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/lampshade-from-recycled-bottle-caps/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/lampshade-from-recycled-bottle-caps/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index abf62da36..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/lampshade-from-recycled-bottle-caps/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Lampshade from Recycled Bottle Caps - - -We will show you how to bend a recycled plastic sheet from the sheet press without heat or mold. - -This technique is inspired by a woodworking technique called ‘kerfing’. Kerfing is a wood bending method done without water or steam. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/lampshade-from-recycled-bottle-caps/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/lampshade-from-recycled-bottle-caps/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7b9f4651d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/lampshade-from-recycled-bottle-caps/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Prepare all the materials and tools - - Here’s what you need: -- The HDPE plastic board that you’re going to bend: - - 30 cm x 10,5 cm, 5 mm (thickness)
 - - ⌀9,5 cm, 5 mm (thickness) 
 -- A portable sanding machine
 -- A soldering iron
 -- A table saw -- Rope
 diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/lampshade-from-recycled-bottle-caps/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/lampshade-from-recycled-bottle-caps/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 03bf5af7d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/lampshade-from-recycled-bottle-caps/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Score the plastic - - First, we’re using the table saw to score the plastic. Cut 3 mm in depth while keeping a 5 mm distance between each cut. Make sure you’re scoring the board perpendicular to the direction of the bend. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/lampshade-from-recycled-bottle-caps/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/lampshade-from-recycled-bottle-caps/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2caade821..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/lampshade-from-recycled-bottle-caps/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Thin out the end sides of the plastic board - - Thin out the end sides of the plastic board using a portable sanding machine so that the sides will fit better in the next step. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/lampshade-from-recycled-bottle-caps/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/lampshade-from-recycled-bottle-caps/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index a40be3264..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/lampshade-from-recycled-bottle-caps/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Bend it - - Now bend it carefully! Use a rope to tighten it in place. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/lampshade-from-recycled-bottle-caps/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/lampshade-from-recycled-bottle-caps/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 394168eb0..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/lampshade-from-recycled-bottle-caps/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Weld the end pieces of plastic - - With the help of a soldering iron, weld the end pieces of plastic together. Make sure you do it well. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/lampshade-from-recycled-bottle-caps/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/lampshade-from-recycled-bottle-caps/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 997530bb1..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/lampshade-from-recycled-bottle-caps/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Smooth out the welded part - - Now back to the sanding machine again. Smooth out the welded part to get that nice and evenly joint. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/lampshade-from-recycled-bottle-caps/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/lampshade-from-recycled-bottle-caps/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index 15af31469..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/lampshade-from-recycled-bottle-caps/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Done! - - And voilà! Your beautiful, eco-friendly lampshade is done. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/laser-cut-electronic-box/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/laser-cut-electronic-box/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index bcaa6e0c9..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/laser-cut-electronic-box/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Laser cut electronic box - - -The original machines have a metal box where all the electronics are stored in. It’s quite basic and easy to make, especially since you are already working with metal. However, it takes quite some time to build. - -This How-to will show you a simple upgrade. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/laser-cut-electronic-box/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/laser-cut-electronic-box/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index d94eac5c4..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/laser-cut-electronic-box/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Get ready - - An easier and quicker way to make the box is to lasercut it on 3mm plywood or MDF, which also lowers the chances of short circuits. -Bear in mind that this is more expensive than doing it by yourself. - -Each face of the box is lasercut and connected with some nut and bolts, super simple. - -We've also added mounting holes for all the electronics inside the drawing which makes it easy and quick to connect everything in the right place. - -The laser cut parts can leave quite some rough burn-marks, we recommend to sand them when you receive them, looks way better. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/laser-cut-electronic-box/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/laser-cut-electronic-box/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 58ef45fbb..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/laser-cut-electronic-box/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Laser cut the parts - - Download the lasercut files from the top of this page and send them to your local laser cutter (or cnc) to get the parts cut. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/laser-cut-electronic-box/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/laser-cut-electronic-box/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 19d3a86c3..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/laser-cut-electronic-box/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Sand your parts - - It can make a world of difference if you take the time to sand the rough cut parts. It will help remove the burn marks and soften the overall look - unless that’s what you’re going for. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/laser-cut-electronic-box/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/laser-cut-electronic-box/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 32ce2cdb9..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/laser-cut-electronic-box/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Assemble and install - - With that done, you can now use nuts and bolts to fasten the box together and install all the wiring. - -Mount it to the machine and enjoy recycling! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/laser-cut-stainless-steel-hopper/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/laser-cut-stainless-steel-hopper/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 136912f3b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/laser-cut-stainless-steel-hopper/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Laser cut stainless steel hopper - - -This how-to explains how to easily create a hopper for the 2.1 shredder, using laser cut stainless sheet. -Since most shredders requires laser cut parts, you can add the shredder cutout to the list! -This design requires no welding, and can be completed in less that a day with on a angle grinder, a vise and a few rivets. -It features a laser cut plexiglass lid, so that you can see what's happening. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/laser-cut-stainless-steel-hopper/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/laser-cut-stainless-steel-hopper/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9b47071c3..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/laser-cut-stainless-steel-hopper/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Cut the parts - - Send the files to your local laser cutting shop. This design requires 1.5 mm thick stainless steel (more durable than regular steel, but it can work just fine), and 3 mm thick plexyglass. For plexyglass, it can maybe be laser cut in your local fablab too! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/laser-cut-stainless-steel-hopper/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/laser-cut-stainless-steel-hopper/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index ddfe1f21e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/laser-cut-stainless-steel-hopper/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Prepare the folds - - Once the laser cutting is done, you need to mark the dotted lines using a angle grinder and a thin cutting disc (1.5 mm thick is good). -Grind through half the thickness of the stainless sheet to ease up the bending process. -Small advice: when grinding the small bend line (for the mounting brackets), make sure the grind ABOVE the line (and not below), otherwise the mounting brackets will not be flush with hopper top, and will let plastics leak all over. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/laser-cut-stainless-steel-hopper/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/laser-cut-stainless-steel-hopper/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4f809092c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/laser-cut-stainless-steel-hopper/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Bend the sheet and rivet - - Bend the sheet along the line you marked. If you have a sheet bended it's way easier! -Clamp the sheet in a solid vise, and bend use pliers to bend along the lines. -It is easier to start with the large bends, and then proceed to the bends for attachment on the hopper. -Small advice here: if you feel too much resistance while bending, stop and mark the bends a little deeper so that you obtain a nice bend. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/laser-cut-stainless-steel-hopper/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/laser-cut-stainless-steel-hopper/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 6901209b9..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/laser-cut-stainless-steel-hopper/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Bending the lid - - For ease of use I added line along the fold lines during laser cutting the plexiglass. -To bend the lips, I secured the part in a vise just on the futur bend line, and used a heat gun on medium heat at about 20 cm on the plexiglass until the angle is 90 °. Beware of not get too close with the heatgun otherwise you'll create bubble on the surface. I recommend to train on a scrap piece of plexiglass (or laser cut multiple lids) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/laser-cut-stainless-steel-hopper/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/laser-cut-stainless-steel-hopper/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index bce0c1b8a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/laser-cut-stainless-steel-hopper/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Here you go! - - You now have a functional, aircraft lookin' hopper for your shredder! I sanded mine with 230 grint sand paper to even out the surface, and added a small hinge on the back for the lid: \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/layout-your-plastic-/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/layout-your-plastic-/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4aeb4a591..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/layout-your-plastic-/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Layout your plastic - - -Most of the people don’t even realize how much plastic waste they create. The throw-away culture makes it happen that you leave this waste behind. This makes us, in a lot of moments, just skipping the moment of actually taking a look at what we throw away. - -By laying all the collected plastic waste out and sorting it in categories it will give a clear overview. This can be done at a Collection Point or even after a cleanup. Lay it out and explain/talk/share with the people around you. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/layout-your-plastic-/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/layout-your-plastic-/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 1bfd4aab1..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/layout-your-plastic-/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Choose your categories - - The first step of this how-to is, choosing a couple of categories that you want to sort the plastic in. This can be only the ones that you will recycle yourself or the most common ones PETE, HDPE, PVC, LDPE, PP, PS, and others. You can even add a section with “to dirty†or “to mixedâ€. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/layout-your-plastic-/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/layout-your-plastic-/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 43f99ca14..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/layout-your-plastic-/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Measure the space that is needed - - By letting someone in the local area collect their plastic waste for a week or 2, you will know how much space you will need to lay this out in the layout. Layout their collected plastic in the categories that you choose. Start to measure the outlines per category and the outline of the whole layout. - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/layout-your-plastic-/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/layout-your-plastic-/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 250b5de22..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/layout-your-plastic-/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Choose a good spot - - Now the size of the layout is clear we can go to find the right spot to place the layout. It’s nice to have enough space around the layout to be able to move and take pictures. It will make sense to keep the layout close to the collection bags, so the visitor can after seeing his plastic, throw it into the bags to be recycled. - -Tip: You can also make it to the wall and play with shelves to make it easier to take photos of. It can be done in lots of different ways to be creative and share your results with the community. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/layout-your-plastic-/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/layout-your-plastic-/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 1a2a079e0..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/layout-your-plastic-/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Mask the outlines - - It’s the moment to mask the tape on the floor. Follow the measurements that you wrote down earlier. Line out the rectangles by using a measuring tape/90-degree corner and paste the masking tape on the lines. Make sure that you press all the tape nicely, so it doesn’t come off too easily. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/layout-your-plastic-/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/layout-your-plastic-/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 645a70d50..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/layout-your-plastic-/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Make a sign for every category - - In this step, it’s time to visualize each category by an illustration or written sign. This can be done on a piece of paper (something temporary) or being painted on the floor (something permanent). Make sure that you choose a color that has good contrast with the background, this will make the layout clear even when people take photos from far. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/layout-your-plastic-/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/layout-your-plastic-/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index e38ef970e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/layout-your-plastic-/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Take a step back and look - - Finally, the moment is there to use this plastic layout tool. You can use it for example, when a collector comes in your Collection Point and he/she has time to listen to some more information about plastic. Explain how to separate the collected plastic by the categories. - -Tip: Give a hand where needed, it’s fun to do this together. - -After sorting you can both take two steps backward and look at the overview of the laid out plastic. Start a little conversation about the result and the differences in the products that you see. It's your moment to shine with all your knowledge about plastic, go for it and share :) If there is even more time you can give some plastic-free examples to reduce plastic use. - -Tip: Let the collector take a photo of the overview to share on, for example, social media. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/lets-make-plastic-rope/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/lets-make-plastic-rope/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9ac9c3591..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/lets-make-plastic-rope/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Let's Make Plastic Rope! - - -Let's make plastic rope! With a bit of patience -- and some handmade passion -- you can create colorful rope from single-use plastic bags. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/lets-make-plastic-rope/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/lets-make-plastic-rope/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index ae7869d77..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/lets-make-plastic-rope/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Plastic rope in 5 easy steps! - - Let's make Plastic Rope in five easy steps! - -1. Collect -2. Clean -3. Cut -4. Combine -5. Create diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/lets-make-plastic-rope/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/lets-make-plastic-rope/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index dc73542db..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/lets-make-plastic-rope/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### DIY Plastic Rope Video - - Take a look at the documents above -- or check out this video for our step-by-step process on how to make your own plastic rope ... and then experiment with your own creative inspiration! - -PRO TIP: Once you have created your rope, roll it into balls of 10-100 meters. Then you can experiment with making bracelets or keychains (3-5 meters), bags (20-50 meters), wall hangings (50-100 meters), rugs (100-500 meters) and more. Simply do an online search for traditional macrame patterns -- anything you can create with regular rope, you can experiment with plastic rope! - -Have fun! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/lets-make-rope-from-single-use-plastic-bags/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/lets-make-rope-from-single-use-plastic-bags/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index fa09754f2..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/lets-make-rope-from-single-use-plastic-bags/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Let's Make Rope from Single-Use Plastic Bags! - - -Let's make plastic rope! With a bit of patience -- and some handmade passion -- you can create colorful rope from single-use plastic bags. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/lets-make-rope-from-single-use-plastic-bags/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/lets-make-rope-from-single-use-plastic-bags/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2d2df5431..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/lets-make-rope-from-single-use-plastic-bags/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,15 +0,0 @@ -### Recycled plastic rope in 5 easy steps! - - Let's make recycled plastic rope in five easy steps! - -1. Collect -2. Clean -3. Cut -4. Combine -5. Create - -Take a look at the PDF -- or check out the video for our step-by-step process on how to make your own plastic rope ... and then experiment with your own creative inspiration! - -PRO TIP: Once you have your rope, roll it into balls of 10-100 meters. Then you can experiment with making bracelets or keychains (3-5 meters), bags (20-50 meters), wall hangings (100-300 meters) and more. Simply do an online search for traditional macrame patterns -- anything you can create with regular rope, you can experiment with plastic rope! - -Have fun! diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/little-shredder-machine-for-little-farm/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/little-shredder-machine-for-little-farm/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index bc5c72bdf..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/little-shredder-machine-for-little-farm/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Little shredder machine for little farm - - -A little shredder machine created in a little city farm \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/little-shredder-machine-for-little-farm/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/little-shredder-machine-for-little-farm/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 99151a5c6..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/little-shredder-machine-for-little-farm/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Create the frame - - - First of all is important create the frame; -- you can use recyclable material like iron; -- you need a welding machine; -- create a cart as in phoso for supporting your machine; -- creates a funnel to insert the plastic. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/little-shredder-machine-for-little-farm/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/little-shredder-machine-for-little-farm/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index eeaf304d8..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/little-shredder-machine-for-little-farm/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Give the soul - - Now is the moment to create the soul for your machine: - -- you can buy a motor or create like the guidelines in the site web precious plastic; -- is important follow the directions on the guidelines; -- but the motor on the cart; -- connects the motor with cables to a switch; -- connects the motor with gears to the Shredder box. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/little-shredder-machine-for-little-farm/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/little-shredder-machine-for-little-farm/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index e0bf1bf8e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/little-shredder-machine-for-little-farm/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Shredder box - - Now you need a shredder box: - -- You can buy a shredder box at the preciuous plastic bazar; -- or you can create a shredder box; -- download the guidelines; -- you need a blacksmith to cut and create each piece; -- at the end you have to assebled every pieces and create a shredder box. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/little-shredder-machine-for-little-farm/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/little-shredder-machine-for-little-farm/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index c31dcfe09..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/little-shredder-machine-for-little-farm/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11 +0,0 @@ -### Put everything in the pot! - - Now it’s time to assemble everything: - -- please follow the guidelines; -- is important assemble every pieces in the right way; -- you can color every pieces; -- is important use protection; -- create a workspace for you machine; -- be quiet and patience in every moment; -- the game is done! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/log-splitter-injector-upgrade/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/log-splitter-injector-upgrade/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index ba762c69e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/log-splitter-injector-upgrade/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Log splitter injector upgrade - - -Need a little more power, or just feeling lazy? We've upgraded our PP injection mould machine using a 5T log splitter - this has made a world of difference to our production capabilities. In these videos, we discuss how we did it, as well as our process for creating thick parts. - -Note: THIS UPGRADE IS DANGEROUS! Please take care with hydraulic machinery. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/log-splitter-injector-upgrade/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/log-splitter-injector-upgrade/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4b7410459..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/log-splitter-injector-upgrade/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,12 +0,0 @@ -### How we built it - - Here, we're covering the upgrade to the Injection Machine. - -You'll need: -• A Precious Plastic injection machine -• A 5T log splitter -• Ability to cut steel, weld and drill holes -• Hopper (see .zip file attached) - -Below is the direct link to the particular log splitter we used: -www.bunnings.com.au/homelite-2200w-5t-electric-log-splitter_p0044725 \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/log-splitter-injector-upgrade/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/log-splitter-injector-upgrade/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 71d2b839d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/log-splitter-injector-upgrade/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### How we use it - - In this video, we walk you through how we use our hydraulic injection moulding machine. We designed this machine to assist us in creating larger, thicker and 'trickier' products. - -As safety is a concern, it may be helpful to include something to monitor pressure within the barrel. Initially, we were using a load cell, however as it reduced our stroke length, we are now either adding vents to our moulds or dosing the barrel with the correct amount of plastic for each shot. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/log-splitter-injector-upgrade/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/log-splitter-injector-upgrade/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index ff6cabed3..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/log-splitter-injector-upgrade/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,12 +0,0 @@ -### Build your own! - - This machine may not suit all workshops, however it has certainly been worth it's weight in gold for us! - -If you plan on upgrading your machine, here are a few things to try: -• Monitor pressure. We used a load cell (see second image) in our first version, however it shortened our stroke length and we are now weighing each shot -• Change the orientation to suit your workshop. -• Create a quick release that will work on a moving barrel (and share the How-To!) - -Finally, be careful. We do not accept any responsibly for loss or damages - this 'How-To' is intended to be educational not instructional. - -Follow us @​​​​​​​​​​​​​​preciousplasticmelbourne and tag us in your upgrade! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/low-cost-stool-mould/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/low-cost-stool-mould/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 302f04830..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/low-cost-stool-mould/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Low cost stool mould - - -In this how to we want to share with you how to prepare a stool with a low cost mould. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/low-cost-stool-mould/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/low-cost-stool-mould/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 862ca7eff..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/low-cost-stool-mould/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Source Material, mould and machine - - Before starting you need to decide on which plastic to use and how to get it. We usually use PP or HDPE which we collect locally in Berlin at our workspace. -We use a simple cake tin for the prototype stool mould. As a machine we use a small oven, converted to a compression machine. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/low-cost-stool-mould/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/low-cost-stool-mould/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index e25846029..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/low-cost-stool-mould/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Melt the seat - - Fill the cake tin with your granulated material to the top and but it into the oven. Keep in the oven for about an hour, otherwise the inside of the seat won´t melt. -Take out of the oven and let cool down for another hour. Once cooled down, open the cake tin and take out your seat. - -If the top of your seat is not even, use an electric planer. make sure you collect the excess plastic flakes to use later. - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/low-cost-stool-mould/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/low-cost-stool-mould/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 33c595117..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/low-cost-stool-mould/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Fix legs - - First we experimented with wooden legs. However, it is hard to fix them properly to the seat. That´s why in the end we decided to use metal legs that we simply screw below the seat. Still looks great! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/low-cost-stool-using-cake-mould/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/low-cost-stool-using-cake-mould/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 6f56e6b1f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/low-cost-stool-using-cake-mould/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Low cost stool using cake mould - - -In this how to we want to share with you how to prepare a stool with a low cost mould. It is a simple cake tin instead of an engineered mould that works pretty well. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/low-cost-stool-using-cake-mould/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/low-cost-stool-using-cake-mould/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4bf698b3a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/low-cost-stool-using-cake-mould/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Sourcing the material - - Before starting you need to decide on which plastic to use and how to get it. We usually use PP or HDPE which we collect locally in Berlin at our workspace. If you don´t have access to plastic flakes you can find it in the bazar: - -https://bazar.preciousplastic.com/raw-material/plastic/pp-yellow-free-shipping-berlin-shredded-clean-post-consumer-clone/ diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/low-cost-stool-using-cake-mould/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/low-cost-stool-using-cake-mould/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index fe3c04659..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/low-cost-stool-using-cake-mould/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Mould making - - The problem with customised engineered moulds is that they come at a high price especially at the current situation. That is why we use a simple cake tin for the prototype stool mould as you can see in the picture. We simply got it at the supermarket and it works perfectly fine. - -Attention: -Check if the bottom of the cake tin is even or not. It will later on shape the top of your stool. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/low-cost-stool-using-cake-mould/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/low-cost-stool-using-cake-mould/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2ca5c2282..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/low-cost-stool-using-cake-mould/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Machine - oven - - As a machine we use a small oven, converted to a compression machine. Simply put the mould in. We heat the oven up to 250° for PP. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/low-cost-stool-using-cake-mould/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/low-cost-stool-using-cake-mould/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index d774369be..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/low-cost-stool-using-cake-mould/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Melt the seat - - Fill the cake tin with your granulated material to the top and put it into the oven. Keep in the oven for about an hour, otherwise the inside of the seat won´t melt. -Take out of the oven and let cool down for another hour. Once cooled down, open the cake tin and take out your seat. - -Since the top of your seat won´t be even with this technique you will have to equalize it. Therefore, you can use an electric planer. make sure you collect the excess plastic flakes to use later. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/low-cost-stool-using-cake-mould/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/low-cost-stool-using-cake-mould/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index a72734cb1..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/low-cost-stool-using-cake-mould/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Fix legs - - First we experimented with wooden legs. However, it is hard to fix them properly to the seat. That´s why in the end we decided to use metal legs that we simply screw below the seat. Still looks great! - -For that buy the legs at your local hardwire shop or order online. The legs come with screws. Place the legs equally distributed at the evened bottom of the seat and fix them with the screws. - -Turn around & take a seat - your beautiful new stool is ready! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/low-cost-washing-machine-with-water-filter-system/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/low-cost-washing-machine-with-water-filter-system/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4e8f5666e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/low-cost-washing-machine-with-water-filter-system/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Low cost Washing Machine with water filter system - - -Learn how to modify any laundry machine to enable it for plastic washing without wasting any water drop. This guide will show you how to modify the electric system and add a water tank with a custom 3d printed sand filter. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/low-cost-washing-machine-with-water-filter-system/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/low-cost-washing-machine-with-water-filter-system/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 1ad3ed710..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/low-cost-washing-machine-with-water-filter-system/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,13 +0,0 @@ -### Check the video to see if the solution fits you! - - I've been experimenting to achieve the following hack with the idea to build the most simple, universal and cheap laundry machine. The design is based in the gravity force, so the water can run through the system with that force and the small 40W power of the outlet pump (that every laundry machine has). This is the best solution for small workspaces with a flow of 20-50 kg day using short washing programmes, for sure if you manage more than that you can build multiple machines or build the one of the mate -> https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/wash-plastic-washing-machine - -Video -> https://youtube.com/shorts/2LW2zV2ksLE?feature=share - -***Complete guide available in the main download link*** -Content of the folder: -1- Guide with more information + BOM (everything in one .pdf) -2- STL files for the filter and the support (.stl files) -The folder will be updated when new info/changes are implemented to the guide. - -ENJOY!! diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/low-cost-washing-machine-with-water-filter-system/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/low-cost-washing-machine-with-water-filter-system/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 765ec8dc9..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/low-cost-washing-machine-with-water-filter-system/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Dissambly, clean the machine - - Make sure before starting the process to pour out the water inside the machine. - -1º Remove the top and the back plate -2º Take apart the water input system and the cleaning box -3º Clean the pump and the drum \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/low-cost-washing-machine-with-water-filter-system/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/low-cost-washing-machine-with-water-filter-system/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 60d645892..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/low-cost-washing-machine-with-water-filter-system/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,12 +0,0 @@ -### Making holes and assembly of the hack - - I'm using a 55L container from Ikea ~10€. I've tried two containers from cheaper shops and both are now broken. You a need a good plastic to support the pressure of the contained water and the stress of making the holes. - -For the assembly, we need two pipes bushing of 1", one is for the water inlet and the other water outlet. -1-Hole should be centred with the drum inlet -2-Hole in the container -3-Hole for the water input - -After the holes are made it is time to play with the wiring, you'll require some welding skills if you want a reliable results. I'm using security connectors and heat shrink covers to avoid water damage or electrocution. - -For the assembly, I've mounted the Contactor in the back wall with a fastening clip. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/low-cost-washing-machine-with-water-filter-system/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/low-cost-washing-machine-with-water-filter-system/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index f05380a06..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/low-cost-washing-machine-with-water-filter-system/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Make the electric set up - - Before making the assembly, make sure that the valve is corrected positioned and it's working fine. -Use some teflon for the connections of the valve with the pipe adapter. - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/low-cost-washing-machine-with-water-filter-system/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/low-cost-washing-machine-with-water-filter-system/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index f28075d56..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/low-cost-washing-machine-with-water-filter-system/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Build and assembly the filter and filter support - - Print the required files. -Between components put the nets. -Make required holes for the filter support, attach the filter and connect to the water system! Ready for testing. -Fill the filter with sand until the main body is 1/4 covered. - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/low-cost-washing-machine-with-water-filter-system/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/low-cost-washing-machine-with-water-filter-system/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9ee68e344..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/low-cost-washing-machine-with-water-filter-system/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Attach the auxiliar container and test - - Fill the main container, make sure you've attached the aux container. Fit an extra manual valve to avoid the water go to the incorrect path. -Test it and fix water leaks! - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-3d-printed-injection-mould/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-3d-printed-injection-mould/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4c3afc318..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-3d-printed-injection-mould/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Make a 3D-printed injection mould - - -3D-printed molds are a great way to test highly detailed mold designs before investing in more expensive CNC-milled aluminum molds. 3D-printed molds can last for up to 100 shots, however results vary depending on variables like plastic temperature, injection pressure, and clamping method. A downside of 3D-printed molds is that they’re made from photocured resin, so they can’t be reused or recycled at the end of their life. They’re also quite brittle when compared to aluminum, which means small features in the mold design have a tendency to break more easily. For that reason, 3D-printed molds’ utility is limited to prototyping and small batch productions. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-3d-printed-injection-mould/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-3d-printed-injection-mould/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index a6a86929c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-3d-printed-injection-mould/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### 3D Model - - To begin, you need a 3D model, which you can create using a 3D modeling software such as Fusion360. Molds are also available from various designers online. The Daily Spork mold is available for download above. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-3d-printed-injection-mould/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-3d-printed-injection-mould/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 5ae1e7128..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-3d-printed-injection-mould/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### 3D print the mold using hi-temp resin - - Once you have the 3D model, print it using a resin that’s able to withstand the high heat of the injection molding machine. The most common resin available is FormLabs’ Hi Temp resin which can withstand temperatures up to 269 degrees celsius. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-3d-printed-injection-mould/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-3d-printed-injection-mould/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 5b2fa6ddd..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-3d-printed-injection-mould/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Shred plastic - - While the mold is printing, you can prepare your plastic by cleaning and shredding it. If you’re making Daily Sporks, be sure to use food-grade plastic which is marked with the food-grade symbol. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-3d-printed-injection-mould/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-3d-printed-injection-mould/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 507635652..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-3d-printed-injection-mould/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### UV cure the mold - - Once the mold is printed, it needs to be cured so that it fully hardens and is able to withstand the injection machine’s high heat. The easiest (and least wasteful) way to do this is by leaving the mold out in the sun for about an hour or so. As the mold cures, its color will change from yellow to orange. Once the mold has cured, remove its support structures using clippers and a file. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-3d-printed-injection-mould/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-3d-printed-injection-mould/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 872f05985..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-3d-printed-injection-mould/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Assemble mold - - With the plastic shredded and mold cured, it’s now time to assemble the mold for injection. This can be done as pictured, using a combination of clamps. Designs may vary though, so do what makes sense for your particular molds (using pins is another common method). Generally it’s a good idea to put plastic into the injection machine beforehand so that it can begin to melt while you assemble the mold. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-3d-printed-injection-mould/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-3d-printed-injection-mould/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index be458dec5..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-3d-printed-injection-mould/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Inject plastic into the mold - - Once the mold is assembled, press down on the injection lever to see if melted plastic comes out of the nozzle (Usually it takes about 10 minutes to fully melt). Once the plastic is melted, place the injection nozzle in the mold entry and inject the plastic into the mold. A nice feature of 3D printed molds is their translucency, which makes it easier to tell when the mold is completely filled. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-3d-printed-injection-mould/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-3d-printed-injection-mould/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index 963f40c54..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-3d-printed-injection-mould/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Let cool - - After the plastic has been injected, remove the mold and let it cool before opening. Cooling times vary depending on the thickness of the object. For something like the Daily Spork, a minute or two should do the trick. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-3d-printed-injection-mould/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-3d-printed-injection-mould/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index b6e6f3160..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-3d-printed-injection-mould/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Disassemble mold - - Once the plastic is cool, disassemble the mold and remove the part. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-3d-printed-injection-mould/step_8.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-3d-printed-injection-mould/step_8.md deleted file mode 100644 index 58626c048..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-3d-printed-injection-mould/step_8.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Remove sprue and trim flash - - With your new part made, remove the sprue and any flash. This can be done using a variety of methods depending on the design. The Daily Spork’s sprue can be easily snapped off by hand. Flash (excess material) can be removed using a deburring tool or a small knife. If using a knife, be sure to cut away from yourself :-) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-3d-printed-injection-mould/step_9.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-3d-printed-injection-mould/step_9.md deleted file mode 100644 index 950729d77..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-3d-printed-injection-mould/step_9.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Enjoy your new object - - For more info about the process, check out FormLabs’ white paper on the topic here: https://formlabs.com/media/upload/injection-molding-from-3d-printed-molds.pdf \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9372cbb1d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Make a bench - - -Piece of furniture made of BPC Bamboo Plastic Composite panels. a Bench and a Rack made of composite panels with cnc cut. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 3c564f460..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Make the panel - - Prepare the material mold and press the composite into the thermpress, after a few minutes we have a panel. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7722beab4..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### MATERIAL COMPOSITE - - Mix the Plastic pieces with the bamboo residues in an extrusor, wait for half an hour and then pick up parts. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index e3d9e061a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### CNC panel to make the bench - - Cut a CNC panel to make the bench, it is a three parts bench, after we have fixed the parts, it's quite easy. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-bpc/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-bpc/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8b3922dde..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-bpc/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Make a bench BPC - - -Piece of furniture made of BPC Bamboo Plastic Composite panels. a Bench and a Rack made of composite panels with cnc cut. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-bpc/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-bpc/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 3c564f460..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-bpc/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Make the panel - - Prepare the material mold and press the composite into the thermpress, after a few minutes we have a panel. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-bpc/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-bpc/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7722beab4..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-bpc/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### MATERIAL COMPOSITE - - Mix the Plastic pieces with the bamboo residues in an extrusor, wait for half an hour and then pick up parts. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-bpc/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-bpc/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index e3d9e061a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-bpc/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### CNC panel to make the bench - - Cut a CNC panel to make the bench, it is a three parts bench, after we have fixed the parts, it's quite easy. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-from-bamboo-and-recycled-plastic-/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-from-bamboo-and-recycled-plastic-/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 62e6d12f5..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-from-bamboo-and-recycled-plastic-/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Make a bench from bamboo and recycled plastic - - -Piece of furniture made of BPC Bamboo Plastic Composite panels. a Bench and a Rack made of composite panels with cnc cut. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-from-bamboo-and-recycled-plastic-/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-from-bamboo-and-recycled-plastic-/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 3c564f460..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-from-bamboo-and-recycled-plastic-/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Make the panel - - Prepare the material mold and press the composite into the thermpress, after a few minutes we have a panel. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-from-bamboo-and-recycled-plastic-/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-from-bamboo-and-recycled-plastic-/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7722beab4..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-from-bamboo-and-recycled-plastic-/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### MATERIAL COMPOSITE - - Mix the Plastic pieces with the bamboo residues in an extrusor, wait for half an hour and then pick up parts. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-from-bamboo-and-recycled-plastic-/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-from-bamboo-and-recycled-plastic-/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index e3d9e061a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-from-bamboo-and-recycled-plastic-/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### CNC panel to make the bench - - Cut a CNC panel to make the bench, it is a three parts bench, after we have fixed the parts, it's quite easy. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-from-dendrocalamus-asper/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-from-dendrocalamus-asper/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index baf0cf7be..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-from-dendrocalamus-asper/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Make a bench from dendrocalamus asper - - -Piece of furniture made of BPC Bamboo Plastic Composite panels. a Bench and a Rack made of composite panels with cnc cut. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-from-dendrocalamus-asper/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-from-dendrocalamus-asper/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 3c564f460..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-from-dendrocalamus-asper/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Make the panel - - Prepare the material mold and press the composite into the thermpress, after a few minutes we have a panel. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-from-dendrocalamus-asper/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-from-dendrocalamus-asper/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7722beab4..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-from-dendrocalamus-asper/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### MATERIAL COMPOSITE - - Mix the Plastic pieces with the bamboo residues in an extrusor, wait for half an hour and then pick up parts. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-from-dendrocalamus-asper/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-from-dendrocalamus-asper/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index e3d9e061a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-from-dendrocalamus-asper/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### CNC panel to make the bench - - Cut a CNC panel to make the bench, it is a three parts bench, after we have fixed the parts, it's quite easy. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-with-beams/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-with-beams/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 1133d6427..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-with-beams/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Make a bench with beams - - -The technique of extruding angled beams provides many applications in furniture design. In this How-To, we will take you through the steps of making a bench from angled PP beams and wood. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-with-beams/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-with-beams/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index e1be5392c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-with-beams/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,13 +0,0 @@ -### Get ready - - Okay, before jumping into the building process make sure you're ready to make this How-to. -As the bench is made with extruded beams, you’ll need to make or find an extrusion machine to produce the beams, or otherwise commission a workspace to make them for you :) For the rest you will need access to a wood and metal workshop. - -To make the beams you will need a 80x80x3mm square tube for the mould and around 10kg plastic.. - -Other materials needed for the bench: -- 6mm threaded rod -- 10mm Barrel nuts -- Wood -- 4x70mm wood screws -- Tamper-proof nuts (optional) diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-with-beams/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-with-beams/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 6a6bede35..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-with-beams/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Make your moulds - - Let's start with making the moulds for our angles beams! Make sure you're familiar with the process of the How-to "Make angled beams" as this step is based on that process. For this bench, two moulds will be needed to make the four components. - -Take your 80x80x3mm metal tube, cut it to the measurements shown in the image and weld the mounting brackets. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-with-beams/step_10.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-with-beams/step_10.md deleted file mode 100644 index 29ec18f57..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-with-beams/step_10.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Prepare the wood - - With your parts done, you can now continue with your wooden planks (or other material) for the seating. In this case we’ve gone with pine cut into 8x strips of 28x60x1500. This has then been drilled, sanded and oiled for the finish. These planks will be mounted to the plastic bench via wood screws. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-with-beams/step_11.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-with-beams/step_11.md deleted file mode 100644 index 093baab38..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-with-beams/step_11.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Time to assemble - - With the wood prepared, you can begin assembling the bench together. Use some wood to create an equal spacing between all the planks and fasten them to the plastic with screws. We have used 4x70mm wood screws. - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-with-beams/step_12.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-with-beams/step_12.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7a34569fa..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-with-beams/step_12.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Add the reinforcement - - Depending on the material you have used, you may need to reinforce the seat. In this case a short section of a 25x25mm plastic beam has been fastened to the middle of the seat. However, wood will work just fine or perhaps another material. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-with-beams/step_13.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-with-beams/step_13.md deleted file mode 100644 index 675180751..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-with-beams/step_13.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Take a seat! - - Congratulations! Your bench is complete. You can now sit back and enjoy or possibly disassemble and pack it for a lucky customer :) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-with-beams/step_14.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-with-beams/step_14.md deleted file mode 100644 index adb47f1fd..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-with-beams/step_14.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Go all in with plastic! - - You can also make this bench entirely with plastic beams and play around with colours and textures. Note that the plastic is softer than wood and may need extra support. - -And don't forget to stamp your plastic parts, so it's clear which plastic type is used here :) diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-with-beams/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-with-beams/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 5f1c15de3..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-with-beams/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Prepare your material - - Let's start making the angled beams. Get your cleaned and sorted plastic shredded into a size that works well with your extrusion machine. PP and HDPE should work quite well for this product (PS is probably to brittle for a furniture like that). - -(In this case we used PP and made a mixture of yellow and orange (1:4) to achieve a zesty orange.) - -Pro tip: Let your plastic dry fully before melting it, as moisture can cause a large air pockets in your part. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-with-beams/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-with-beams/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 66862e271..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-with-beams/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Extrude your parts - - For many reasons your machine may differ to the one we’re using at the workspace here in Eindhoven, so take care with your settings and use the experience you’ve had with PP. In this case, we set our machine to temperatures (from hopper to nozzle) 235°C, 245°C, 250°C. While running the machine at 102rpm it took 15 minutes for each part, letting one cool while extruding the next. - -In this case we went for the textured beams - have a look at the How-to below to decide what texture you want. - -Related links: -Extrude different textures 👉 https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/extrude-different-textures \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-with-beams/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-with-beams/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index b95a67506..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-with-beams/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Finish the beams - - After having produced your beams you can now begin preparing them for the bench. Use the -measurements and angles as pictured. Note that the parts may be textured and probably have shrunk in the process of cooling. Each part will be slightly different so take care to match the parts while measuring so they are the same. It is also helpful to de-burr the parts after they have been cut to define the edges. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-with-beams/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-with-beams/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index fa42c6469..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-with-beams/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Cut grooves - - In this step we will create the grooves into which part A will be held within Part B. Find the exact position to cut by laying your parts as they should fit and use a straight line to find the spot. Rough dimensions have been shown. To begin, set the saw blade to a depth of 10mm. Take care on the first two outer cuts as you’d like to hold a tight tolerance. Follow these by making more cuts in between to remove as much material as possible. Finish by clamping the part down and working at it with a chisel. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-with-beams/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-with-beams/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index 285cc08ec..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-with-beams/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Test fit and refine - - Due to the nature of this recycling process, you cannot count on every part being exactly the same. So now is the opportunity to test fit and refine the grooves for that perfect, solid fit. Ideally partA should fit snug within part B, tight enough to hold itself. - -Tip: Use a heat gun to smooth and finish your plastic once your grooves fit well. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-with-beams/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-with-beams/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9c0c172b7..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-with-beams/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Drill thread rod holes - - In this step we are going to be drilling the 6.5mm holes that will house the 6mm threaded rod. Begin by marking the midpoint and ‘true’ angle of Part A through part B. Follow this line around the corner to find the centre point and mark it. The lines on the side can be used to position the piece under the drill bit with a vice clamp. - -Take care to align drill and marker lines as closely as possible and drill through. We can then use this hole to mark the point on Part A for drilling. As before, position the piece under the drill press, align the bit with the edge of the part and drill. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-with-beams/step_8.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-with-beams/step_8.md deleted file mode 100644 index 94df90d14..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-with-beams/step_8.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Drill barrel nut holes - - Insert the threaded rod into the hole you have made and take note of how deep the rod goes. Use this measurement to define where you want the barrel nut to anchor the rod. Place your part under the drill and make a 10mm hole for your 10mm barrel nut. Do not drill this hole all the way through. A smaller hole can be made through the beam that you can use to remove the barrel nut in future. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-with-beams/step_9.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-with-beams/step_9.md deleted file mode 100644 index cd7d1ab9c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bench-with-beams/step_9.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Cut thread and assemble - - With all the holes drilled, insert the barrel nuts, align and screw the thread. From this we can cut the rod to the exact length for that clean finish. Then it’s just a matter of sliding the parts together, adding a washer and tightening the nuts! - -We’ve used ‘tamper-proof’ nuts in this case to prevent any fiddling with the fit in the future. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bent-laser-cut-mould-with-inserts-/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bent-laser-cut-mould-with-inserts-/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index bc7d1aeb4..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bent-laser-cut-mould-with-inserts-/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Make a bent laser cut mould with inserts - - -Here you'll learn how to make a more complex laser cut mould, in order to avoid post production processes like bending, drilling and cutting. Now we are going to make a handplane for bodysurfing, but you can apply this technique to any other product! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bent-laser-cut-mould-with-inserts-/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bent-laser-cut-mould-with-inserts-/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2e658fad8..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bent-laser-cut-mould-with-inserts-/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Laser cut - - Download the laser cut files and send them to you local laser cutting company. Make sure to ask if they offer bending services to see if they can do it for you straight away or if you have to take your laser cut plates to bend somewhere else. In the download file, you'll also find the bending angle and line. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bent-laser-cut-mould-with-inserts-/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bent-laser-cut-mould-with-inserts-/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index a260c271b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bent-laser-cut-mould-with-inserts-/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Bending - - After you receive your plates already bent, they will not fit perfectly because the middle plate has a different thickness from the top and bottom ones, therefore they have different bending radius, but that's not a problem! -Place the 3 plates together and with the help of some M8 bolts and the very stong 4 mm washers we previously laser cut, use them to align the plates together, making sure the chamfered corners are all on the same side. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bent-laser-cut-mould-with-inserts-/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bent-laser-cut-mould-with-inserts-/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 37215b92c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bent-laser-cut-mould-with-inserts-/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Clamping - - On the picture N°1 you'll see how the plates will look like, so to make them fit together we will need to use a vise, like you can see on the picture N°2. You'll need to clamp it as hard as you can, until you see the 3 plates fitting together as you can see on the picture N°3. Repeat the same on the other side. After this, tighten up all the bolts as hard as you can, this will help to bend back any deformation that might have happened during the clamping. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bent-laser-cut-mould-with-inserts-/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bent-laser-cut-mould-with-inserts-/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7e406e9cc..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bent-laser-cut-mould-with-inserts-/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Inserts - - We have 3 types of inserts in this mould in order to avoid post production processes: -1) Coin insert: This one is made in order to have a space to place a Precious Plastic stamp to mark the plastic type we will use for this product -2) Slots inserts: These inserts will avoid the need of a milling machine or dremel in order to create the slots for the handplane's straps. With this inserts, after injecting, you'll only have to remove the excess material with a cutter. -3) Bolt inserts: The use of botls as inserts will avoid drilling after injecting in order to be able to include the elastic that's going to secure your wrist with the handplane. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bent-laser-cut-mould-with-inserts-/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bent-laser-cut-mould-with-inserts-/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 1fa1f127b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bent-laser-cut-mould-with-inserts-/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Coin and Slots inserts - - For the coin and slots inserts, first we need to cut the inserts from the set. Generally laser cut companies can't cut such small pieces individually because they easily get lost, so we do it like this and cut it ourselves. We also included more than what we need, just in case something goes wrong when cutting them! -After cutting you need to sand carefully the connections between the pieces. Remember to test in the cavities while sanding, so you don't sand more than what's needed. Generally if the piece fits tight, it's easier to adjust the depth and then welding. -You might need to file down a bit the hole for the stamp, to make sure it fits perfectly, they are not all EXACTLY the same. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bent-laser-cut-mould-with-inserts-/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bent-laser-cut-mould-with-inserts-/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index c72ddea88..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bent-laser-cut-mould-with-inserts-/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Bolt inserts - - You will receive the plate with two 3 mm holes, so you'll need to drill through with a 3.3 mm drill bit to be able to make a M4 thread. Now the mould its ready to include the bolts inserts in it, make sure you have x2 M4 bolts to be able to put them in place before injecting. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bent-laser-cut-mould-with-inserts-/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bent-laser-cut-mould-with-inserts-/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9f4129909..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bent-laser-cut-mould-with-inserts-/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Finish the mould - - After you weld all the inserts in place and make the thread for the bolts (Tip: make sure the thickness of the slots inserts it's less than 4 mm) now you can proceed to weld the nozzle. We kept the nozzle entrance small in order to pop out the handplane from the mould easier. If you drill this hole bigger, it'll get much harder to take it out of the mould and probably the finishing is not going to be as good. -If you want to have a better surface finishing of your product, we recommend you to polish the plates in order to make it smooth and shiny! The smoother the mould is, the smoother your product will be! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bent-laser-cut-mould-with-inserts-/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bent-laser-cut-mould-with-inserts-/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index f32ed4843..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bent-laser-cut-mould-with-inserts-/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Inject and finish - - Before closing the mould, insert the stamp of the plastic type you are going to use in the cavity. Then close the mould with the M8 bolts using the laser cut washers. Make sure you tighten the bolts as hard as you can. Try to keep the mould with the nozzle side up while doing this, so that the stamp you placed in the cavity won’t move or fall inside the mould. -Now take the M4 bolts and screw them from the bottom. This you have to do it just by hand, screw it until you cannot go any further. -After injecting, the first thing you have to do (before opening the mould) is to unscrew the M4 bolts (VERY IMPORTANT), otherwise you wont be able to open the mould. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bent-laser-cut-mould-with-inserts-/step_8.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bent-laser-cut-mould-with-inserts-/step_8.md deleted file mode 100644 index 16669f7de..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bent-laser-cut-mould-with-inserts-/step_8.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Test it! - - Finish the handplane by cleaning the slots with a cutter and then add the straps and elastic (If the plastic is too hard, heat up the cutter with a lighter). -Now you are ready to go to the beach with your friends and test your brand new recycled handplane! Have fun :D \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bowl-with-kitchen-molds/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bowl-with-kitchen-molds/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index dfc4fa86d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bowl-with-kitchen-molds/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Make a bowl with kitchen molds - - -Making a bowl just squeezing the melted plastic in kitchen molds to get objects like vase, fruit bowl or organizer. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bowl-with-kitchen-molds/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bowl-with-kitchen-molds/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 65a10e289..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bowl-with-kitchen-molds/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,14 +0,0 @@ -### Preparation - - Get your stuff together to start: - -2 stainless steel bowls (same size or 1 smaller than other) -pair of gloves -scale -oven in 190ºC -plastic PP5 -backet with water - -1.weigh the plastic more or less the half height of the bigger bowl (it's different from size to size) and reserve; -2.add 100g into the bigger bowl and put in the oven at 190°C; -3.wait to melt at the bright point (+-5 minutes) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bowl-with-kitchen-molds/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bowl-with-kitchen-molds/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index b6620dae6..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bowl-with-kitchen-molds/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Layering - - The secret not to burn the plastic is add layers, so discover how many is needed in your mold adding 100g at a time; - -When you finish the amounted plastic reserved, put the other bowl on top and take to the oven for the last 5/10 minutes. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bowl-with-kitchen-molds/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bowl-with-kitchen-molds/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index a26845221..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bowl-with-kitchen-molds/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Press and cool - - After add all the layers and take out the oven, you must have a nice melted plastic to smash; - -Take the kit bowls and press each other to squeeze the plastic to fill the space between the bowls; - -Equalize the balance to make an even bowl and put it straight into the bucket with water; - -Wait 5 minutes to demold the plastic bowl, make some finish if needed and it is ready to go! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bowl-with-kitchen-molds/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bowl-with-kitchen-molds/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 5951b7755..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-bowl-with-kitchen-molds/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Use it - - Enjoy your 100% recycled piece as you like it! - -Some ideas are use it as a fruit bowl, plant pot or as an organizer. - -=) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-box-from-3d-printing-scraps/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-box-from-3d-printing-scraps/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index a0c43cb1a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-box-from-3d-printing-scraps/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Make a Box from 3D Printing Scraps - - -Did you know you can take your failed prints and print scraps and melt them down to make things? In this “how to†you will be making a bowl from a melted sheet of PLA. This process is hot and includes high temperature in order to melt and mold the plastic effectively. In this, we will use a Cricket EasyPress and a Chandler Tool Heat gun. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-box-from-3d-printing-scraps/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-box-from-3d-printing-scraps/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index a4fdefc75..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-box-from-3d-printing-scraps/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,12 +0,0 @@ -### Gathering Supplies and Safety Gear - - You will need: -- Heat resistant glove/Oven mitts -- Clippers/Wire Cutters -- Safety Goggles -- PLA Scraps -- Cricket EasyPress (or similar that goes up to 400°F) -- Chandler Tool Heat gun (or a heat gun that can go over 400°F) -- a cookie sheet -- parchment paper -Although parchment paper is generally good with high heat, it still scorches. The scorching looks darker and yellow. When the paper gets scorched, you can replace it with a new one. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-box-from-3d-printing-scraps/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-box-from-3d-printing-scraps/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9ca6ae808..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-box-from-3d-printing-scraps/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Breaking Down The Scraps - - Some scraps may be too large for the easy press to melt. If this is the case, grab the clippers and a pair of safety goggles. Use clippers to break down the plastic. - -If the clippers cannot break down the plastic, I suggest using a spatula with a sharp edge and a mallet. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-box-from-3d-printing-scraps/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-box-from-3d-printing-scraps/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index f90ae06c7..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-box-from-3d-printing-scraps/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Melting the Basic Shape - - Turn on the EasyPress and set the temperature to 400°F and the time to 30 seconds. As it heats up, get your 3D printing scraps out. -Grab the cookie sheet and lay a sheet of parchment paper on it. Take larger scraps (this is a good time to use failed prints) and lay them in an arrangement of a plus sign. The plus sign will allow us to bend the walls up easier than making a square. -Lay another layer of parchment paper on top of the scraps. When the EasyPress is done heating up, hold the EasyPress down on the second layer of parchment paper and (for the Crickets) press the Cricket Button to start the timer. For non-cricket users, hold the press down for 30 seconds to a minute. For larger objects, such as failed prints, you need to press the button for the timer twice. -You can melt the PLA down till you reach your desired thickness of the sheet. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-box-from-3d-printing-scraps/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-box-from-3d-printing-scraps/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 04f97074a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-box-from-3d-printing-scraps/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Melting and Cutting the Sheet - - After you melt the big scraps, you can use medium sized and smaller scraps to fill in the gaps. You can also add more to the shape if the larger pieces fail to fill in the ideal area. For the smaller pieces, less time is required but you can keep melting the plastic and adding more scraps to the desired area until it's filled in. - -If you want the edges of the box to be straight, you can use a spatula while the PLA is still hot and press into the sheet where you want the edge to be. - -When done, you can put the Cricket EasyPress away and let the plastic cool to the point of stiffness. - -When it's done cooling and safe to touch you can wear goggles and use the clippers to snap off the plastic at the line created by the spatula. When you cut it, the plastic may snap off and go flying. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-box-from-3d-printing-scraps/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-box-from-3d-printing-scraps/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 369e13c58..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-box-from-3d-printing-scraps/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Molding the Sheet - - Wear heat resistant gloves or oven mitts. - -In this step, we will use a Chandler Tool Heat Gun but any heat gun that can reach or goes over 400°F will work. - -In the area where you want to bend the plastic so that it's upright and forms something like a 90° angle, move the heat gun in a line. Do this motion back and forth until the plastic can bend. Bend the plastic so that it's upright, hold that position till it cools and does not move back. - -Repeat this for the rest of the sides. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-box-from-3d-printing-scraps/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-box-from-3d-printing-scraps/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7a7badc9a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-box-from-3d-printing-scraps/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Melting the Corners - - For the corners, use the heat gun along the corners of the walls. When they are easily malleable, press the two ends of the wall together and hold till it cools and becomes stiff. - -Repeat for the other corners. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-box-from-3d-printing-scraps/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-box-from-3d-printing-scraps/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index 942da988a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-box-from-3d-printing-scraps/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Make Handles - - This is like step 5, except that you bend the top parts of the side walls down. - -Use the heat gun on the area where you want the part to bend. Hold until the handle is stiff. Repeat on the other side. - -And your box is complete! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-broom-hanger/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-broom-hanger/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 0671208d7..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-broom-hanger/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Make a broom hanger - - -A clamp to hang brooms and mops in the wall. Here are the steps to make its mold for the injection machine. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-broom-hanger/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-broom-hanger/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 604389616..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-broom-hanger/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Get your materials and prepare the work - - Make sure you have all your materials ready and go through the attached drawings and steps to understand the full picture of the process. This will help you to work more efficiently and accurate. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-broom-hanger/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-broom-hanger/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 11074f724..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-broom-hanger/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Make the connection piece - - With all the parts in the bag, let’s start cutting the steel pipe nipple (no. 7) in half to make the mold nozzle. -Get the metal sheet (no. 8) and turn a hole in the center with a diameter to fit one half of the steel pipe nipple in tightly. -Weld the parts no. 7 and no. 8 together. Then chamfer the welded edge on the lathe. - -(Drawings page 3-5) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-broom-hanger/step_10.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-broom-hanger/step_10.md deleted file mode 100644 index 43fb46c20..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-broom-hanger/step_10.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Make end caps - - Fix each cap (no. 4) in place and drill four 5mm diameter holes. All through the cap and 25mm deep into the female and male mold parts. Tap each hole of the female and male parts with a ¼†thread. -On the caps, re-drill the holes up to ¼†and fix them with the bolts (no. 12). - -(Drawings page 13) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-broom-hanger/step_11.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-broom-hanger/step_11.md deleted file mode 100644 index d56790fc3..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-broom-hanger/step_11.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Cut the sides for the closing screws - - Final step! With the hand saw, cut slots (two per side) for the bolts to fit in and out more easily. For closing the mold, four bolts and butterfly nuts (no. 13-14) will be used. - -(Drawings page 14) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-broom-hanger/step_12.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-broom-hanger/step_12.md deleted file mode 100644 index 98268924c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-broom-hanger/step_12.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Mould done! - - And you’re done! Here is your broom hanger mold, it's time to inject. -Flexible plastics like HDPE and PP work better for the broom hangers as they won't crack during use. - -To open the mold, us a flat screwdriver to pull apart the parts gently. To take out the plastic product, use the flat screwdriver or a putty knife to open and release it from the male mold. It's easier if you do this process when the plastic part is still hot, but remember to close it back to its original shape after releasing. - - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-broom-hanger/step_13.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-broom-hanger/step_13.md deleted file mode 100644 index f35bc5c83..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-broom-hanger/step_13.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Happy hanging :) - - To install the broom hanger on the wall, drill a hole and fix it with a wall plug and a screw. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-broom-hanger/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-broom-hanger/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index c164a51ab..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-broom-hanger/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Make the female mold - - Now we’ll make the female mold. Take the aluminium block (no. 1) and drill a 1†deep hole in the center of face A of the block. Start with smaller bits until you reach the inch. Then, mill face B to open a channel of 1†wide. Use a round point bit to get a better quality finish. - -(Drawings page 6) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-broom-hanger/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-broom-hanger/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4782a1f1e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-broom-hanger/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Plastic entrance hole - - For the plastic entrance, drill a 5mm hole through the center of your female mold. - -(Drawings page 6) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-broom-hanger/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-broom-hanger/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8765d2761..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-broom-hanger/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Male mold part 1 - - The male mold is made of three parts. Get your aluminium parts no. 2, 3 and 5 ready and start with the aluminium rod (no. 5). Mill one side of the rod to a height of 3,17mm and a width of 14,19mm. - -(Drawings page 7) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-broom-hanger/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-broom-hanger/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 6cb9d12bf..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-broom-hanger/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Male mold part 2 - - Now, get part no. 3 and mill one face on an angle of 15°. Then, mill the other face to an opposite angle of 15°, until the width of the narrow face matches the face of part 5 (see last image). That should be 14,19mm in the narrower face and 21mm in the wider face. - -(Drawings page 7) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-broom-hanger/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-broom-hanger/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index 69ba0b610..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-broom-hanger/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Male mold assembly - - To assemble the male mold, align the center of the previous parts with the center of part no. 2, press with clamps and drill two 3/16†deep holes. -On part no. 5, drill flat countersinks for the screws (no. 9) head. -Fix the three parts with the button head screws, washers and nuts (no. 9-11). - -(Drawings pages 8-9) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-broom-hanger/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-broom-hanger/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8c476850a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-broom-hanger/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Drill the conical guides holes - - Align in place the female and the male parts of the mold and fix them with a small press or locking pliers. Apply the the hole positions from the drawings to the face of part no. 2 and drill two 9,5mm diameter holes. Drill through no. 2 and 1cm deep into no.1. - -(Drawings page 10) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-broom-hanger/step_8.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-broom-hanger/step_8.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4fc51464d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-broom-hanger/step_8.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Conical guides - - Turn your round metal bar (no. 6) to create the conical guides and saw a channel on one side to let the air flow out when inserting. With a vice or a hammer, insert the conical guides into part no.1. - -(Drawings page 11) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-broom-hanger/step_9.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-broom-hanger/step_9.md deleted file mode 100644 index aeac8898d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-broom-hanger/step_9.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Connect the mould - - Fix the nozzle, the female and the male parts with a small press or locking pliers, and drill four 9/32†holes through the corners of both parts. -Close the mold and turn the ends to get an even surface between the male and the female parts. - -(Drawings page 12) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-camicleta/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-camicleta/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 06ef2aa6a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-camicleta/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,16 +0,0 @@ -### Make a "camicleta" - - -The Camicleta is a learning bike that does not have pedals, recommended for children between 18 months and 5 years old. - -Materials: -- 2 sheets of 35 x 35 cm, thickness 10mm. -- 2 12-inch wheels. -- Screws -- Bolts -- Nuts. -- Washers -- Wooden stick for the handlebars. Diameter 22mm. Length 35cm - -In this folder you will find: -CNC cut files (.dxf) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-camicleta/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-camicleta/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 324754bdb..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-camicleta/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Cut the sheets - - Take the 2 sheets, and with a CNC Router make the cuts and recesses shown in the attached file. -For a better finish, round the edges of the pieces. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-camicleta/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-camicleta/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 99b483b91..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-camicleta/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Do the folding - - Take pieces 1A and 1B and fold (with a heat gun) at 25°, mirroring one piece to the other. -As shown in the picture. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-camicleta/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-camicleta/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 0e5205614..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-camicleta/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Threaded inserts - - Take part 2A and 2B and place the threaded inserts with the help of the heat gun. -As shown in the picture. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-camicleta/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-camicleta/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 179479c45..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-camicleta/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Seat assembly - - We proceed to assemble the seat, taking the piece 4 and fitting in it the pieces 5A and 5B. Take piece 3 and assemble it with the seat at an angle of approximately 80°. Fix with screws. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-camicleta/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-camicleta/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index ca4342f78..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-camicleta/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Fork assembly - - We proceed to assemble the fork from pieces 7A and 7B, fitting them with pieces 6A and 6B. Fix with screws. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-camicleta/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-camicleta/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index bfb85eb62..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-camicleta/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### More assembly - - Now, we will proceed to assemble all these parts, we will take the pieces 2A and 2B that we will join to form the frame of the Camicleta. -Place the corresponding bolts, washers and nuts. -Adjust the seat height according to preference, before adjusting the side. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-camicleta/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-camicleta/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index fb809e886..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-camicleta/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Final steps! - - Connect the assembled fork to the frame via an axle and adjust. -Fit the handlebar through the holes. -Finally, fit the wheels with their respective axles. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-carabiner-cnc-vs-lasercut/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-carabiner-cnc-vs-lasercut/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 1ba83205f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-carabiner-cnc-vs-lasercut/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Make a carabiner (CNC vs. lasercut) - - - A carabiner is a useful token that can be given away after an injection moulding workshop at Precious Plastic. Its small size allows you to make up to 6 pieces in one mould, and no assembly needed after injection. - -Each of them will come out with a different marbling pattern, making them unique and memorable! diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-carabiner-cnc-vs-lasercut/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-carabiner-cnc-vs-lasercut/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index c912f3733..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-carabiner-cnc-vs-lasercut/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### CNC or laser cut? - - CNC moulds are precise and allow you to have a better surface finish rounded corners, also they are lightweight, durable and fast to unmould, since you can make products with draft angles, so it's ideal for bigger productions. However they can be very expensive and not super accessible. - -On the other hand, the laser cut version of this product will make you save some money and very probably is going to be easier for you to find someone to make this job for you! However steel density is 3 times higher than aluminum which makes it harder to work with, also it'll have less details, as you will only get the outline of the carabiner therefore the edges will be sharper. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-carabiner-cnc-vs-lasercut/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-carabiner-cnc-vs-lasercut/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index cf7516b60..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-carabiner-cnc-vs-lasercut/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### CNC - Prepare the file - - First of all, decide if you want to customise your carabiners or not. If you are already investing in the CNC cutting, it can make sense to take advantage and add some cool engravings. - -To make it even more functional, you can add your logo, web page and even the plastic type you will use (PP in this case), so then you’ll not need to stamp it afterwards, one step less! To know more about tips and tricks for CNC moulds go to the academy section. - -Here some tips on how to make injection moulds: -👉 https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/create/injection-moulds - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-carabiner-cnc-vs-lasercut/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-carabiner-cnc-vs-lasercut/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 419b7a312..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-carabiner-cnc-vs-lasercut/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### CNC - Mould - - After you customise you mould, you will be ready to send it to cnc. After you receive it, you’ll need to finish some details be able to use it with the injection machine. To know more about how to prepare your mould to use it with the injection machine, go to te link below. - -Here some tips for using the Injection machine: -👉 https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/work-with-the-injection-machine \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-carabiner-cnc-vs-lasercut/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-carabiner-cnc-vs-lasercut/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 77f8c63c7..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-carabiner-cnc-vs-lasercut/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### CNC - Prepare your material - - The material we are going to use for this product is Polypropylene, because of its flexibility. This is very important to make these carabiners functional. - -Try to use one source of PP as a base to make it as pure a possible (at least 70%) and then add a couple of colorful flakes from other source (also PP) to make it fun. - -To fill up this mould you will need around 100 grams, I would recommend you to always fill up the barrel to be able to inject with more pressure! diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-carabiner-cnc-vs-lasercut/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-carabiner-cnc-vs-lasercut/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4bd3e90f5..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-carabiner-cnc-vs-lasercut/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### CNC - Inject and finish - - After injecting you should be able to take the carabiners from the mould just by twisting them. - -Then you just need to remove the leftovers from the twisting process with a cutter. - -Now your carabiners are ready to use! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-carabiner-cnc-vs-lasercut/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-carabiner-cnc-vs-lasercut/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 09e236dd1..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-carabiner-cnc-vs-lasercut/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Laser cut - Prepare the file - - Download the file and send it to laser cut in steel, it’s important to ask for the middle plate (n°2) in 6 mm thick steel. This will determine the thickness of the final product. - -The top and bottom plate (1 and 3) should be cut with 8-10 mm thick steel (the thicker the better, but also heavier!) to make the mould stronger and avoid bending while injecting. - -(If you have other ways to reinforce moulds keeping it lighter, go for it! And don't forget to share (: ). - -If you are good with the grinder you can also cut these two by yourself or just send everything to lasercut! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-carabiner-cnc-vs-lasercut/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-carabiner-cnc-vs-lasercut/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7d0890773..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-carabiner-cnc-vs-lasercut/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Laser cut - Finish the mould - - After receiving your laser cut order you will probably need to sand the middle plate. - -Depending on how dirty the cut is, either use the grinder or just do it by hand with sanding paper. - -After this, weld the nozzle. It goes exactly to the center of the top plate with a 5 mm hole, so you can drill a bigger hole with the diameter of the nozzle. - -Now close the mould, remember to tighten the bolts very well and your are ready to go! diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-carabiner-cnc-vs-lasercut/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-carabiner-cnc-vs-lasercut/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index 6e4452e99..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-carabiner-cnc-vs-lasercut/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Laser cut - Inject and finish - - -Time to inject! - -To separate the middle plate from the top plate, hammer a bolt into the nozzle, you will be able to support the top and middle part with two pieces of wood to do this step, as you can see in the first picture (that's why the middle one is sligthly smaller). - -Afterwards tap the channels gently to take everything out from the mould. You can use something like a bolt for this. - -Whenever it's out, twist the carabiner from the channel and finish it with a cutter. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-carabiner-cnc-vs-lasercut/step_8.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-carabiner-cnc-vs-lasercut/step_8.md deleted file mode 100644 index 6ada83516..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-carabiner-cnc-vs-lasercut/step_8.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Mark your products! - - Last but not least, stamp your carabiners! - -This is one of the most important steps and at the same time, the most forgotten. It’s very important to stamp your plastic in order to be able to recycle it in the future if its needed. - -You can either engrave it by hand with a dremel directly into your mould or make a stamp which you can also use for other products. - -Here you can find a tutorial on how to make a simple wire stamp: -👉 https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/make-a-simple-stamp-from-copper-wire \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-carabiner-cnc-vs-lasercut/step_9.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-carabiner-cnc-vs-lasercut/step_9.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9baf8a5ff..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-carabiner-cnc-vs-lasercut/step_9.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Done! - - And here you go, you got your first bunch of carabiners! -Have fun with them and use them to inspire people about the hidden value of plastic waste :) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-chair-with-bent-sheets/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-chair-with-bent-sheets/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index f3ecb4a1c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-chair-with-bent-sheets/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Make a chair with bent sheets - - -The technique of bending plastic sheets offers great applications in furniture design. In this How-to, we will explain how to build a chair from bent PS sheets and a steel frame. - -It’s split up in two parts: -Step 1-7: Making the jigs and moulds -Step 8-27: Building the chair diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-chair-with-bent-sheets/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-chair-with-bent-sheets/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index ed41fc403..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-chair-with-bent-sheets/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11 +0,0 @@ -### Get ready - - Okay, so before jumping into the building process, get an overview of what you need to follow this How-to. - -To make the moulds and metal parts, you will need access to a wood and metal workshop. -You can find the exact amounts and dimensions of materials in the attached parts list. - -As the chair is made with a plastic sheet, you’ll need to get plastic sheets or a sheet press to make the sheet (link to sheet press video) and an oven to heat it for bending. - -Related links: -How to bend plastic sheets 👉 https://tinyurl.com/bendsheets \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-chair-with-bent-sheets/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-chair-with-bent-sheets/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index de5818576..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-chair-with-bent-sheets/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Print your plans - - Let’s start with preparing the plans to make the jigs and moulds for the chair. Print all the provided plans and templates. Pay attention to set the scale to 100% in the print dialogue! diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-chair-with-bent-sheets/step_10.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-chair-with-bent-sheets/step_10.md deleted file mode 100644 index ece7c792e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-chair-with-bent-sheets/step_10.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Bend the metal legs - - For bending the legs (parts C+D), cut them to size and put them in the bending jig to mark the position of the first radius. Then bend the tube to the corresponding angle and repeat that step for every corner. The leg angle jig helps you to obtain more precision. -Once you are done make sure the leg is still planar and correct any deformation by clamping and bending the piece straight. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-chair-with-bent-sheets/step_11.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-chair-with-bent-sheets/step_11.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9ba1e93ff..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-chair-with-bent-sheets/step_11.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Weld the legs - - Notch the rear legs with the angle grinder, position them in the jig and tack them with the welding machine. Be careful not to set the wooden jig on fire! -Take the legs out of the jig to finish the weld. - -â˜ï¸ Melting metal can get really warm, so reduce the welding time in the jig to the minimum and have common fire safety measures handy. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-chair-with-bent-sheets/step_12.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-chair-with-bent-sheets/step_12.md deleted file mode 100644 index 062d14a1a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-chair-with-bent-sheets/step_12.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Trim the legs - - Put the legs back to the jig and cut them roughly where the jig ends. The final alignment will be done after assembly. Mark the position where to cut at the top end and trim with precision, as this is final. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-chair-with-bent-sheets/step_13.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-chair-with-bent-sheets/step_13.md deleted file mode 100644 index 3384d646b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-chair-with-bent-sheets/step_13.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Make the cross-braces - - Next up it’s time to bend the seat cross-braces (parts E+F). Cut them in length approximately in a 35° angle and mark the position of the indicated holes with a center punch. - -Then bend them to the shape of the jig by clamping or hammering. This step requires a bit of experience, but it doesn’t need to be perfectly precise, as you will have the opportunity to make corrections once the seat is screwed together. - -Now drill and countersink the previously marked holes, approximately perpendicular to the curvature. Take your tube/round bar for the cross-brace (part G) and notch it as shown in step 11. - -Put everything aside for welding during the assembly. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-chair-with-bent-sheets/step_14.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-chair-with-bent-sheets/step_14.md deleted file mode 100644 index 72d9ead9b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-chair-with-bent-sheets/step_14.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Backrest connector: Drill the blind holes - - Put the backrest on its positive mould and drill 12mm holes on the center marks (Step 6). Start perpendicular to the curvature and slowly move to orthogonal. - -The outcome should be a blind hole, going as deep as possible without breaking the inside of the backrest. From the moment when the drill is orthogonal and the entire height of the drill bit is cutting, dive at least 7mm into the plastic to have enough space for the locking pins. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-chair-with-bent-sheets/step_15.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-chair-with-bent-sheets/step_15.md deleted file mode 100644 index 0814c53f1..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-chair-with-bent-sheets/step_15.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Backrest connector: Drill the locking pin holes - - Clamp the backrest in a cross table on the drill press to drill the holes for the locking pins (part J). Make sure that the face of the backrest is perpendicular to the drill press table. - -Avoid clamping the piece too tightly as it might crack, hence support the backrest on both sides with two pieces of identical thickness to prevent it from tipping to one side. Precision is crucial in this step! - -Chose a drill around 0.5-1mm smaller than the diameter of the locking pins. Now align the x-axis to the center of the blind holes (step 13) and the y-axis to the middle of the material thickness. Drill until passing the blind holes and further in as much as possible. This is crucial to make the connecting plugs shake proof in both directions. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-chair-with-bent-sheets/step_16.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-chair-with-bent-sheets/step_16.md deleted file mode 100644 index 59eb7e2a7..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-chair-with-bent-sheets/step_16.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Backrest connector: Make the plugs - - Up next, cut two connector plugs (part H) from 12mm solid steel, each 24mm long. Stick the plugs in the blind holes and mark the position of the locking pins with a drill. - -Then take it off and move to the drill press. Choose a diameter slightly bigger than the locking pin and countersink the top side. Drill a M5 center hole (Ø4.2mm), 6mm from the other end of the plug and tap it. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-chair-with-bent-sheets/step_17.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-chair-with-bent-sheets/step_17.md deleted file mode 100644 index c344780bb..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-chair-with-bent-sheets/step_17.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Backrest connector: Assemble the plugs - - Before you put everything together, enlarge the previously drilled locking pin holes to a diameter about 0.2 mm smaller than the diameter of the locking pins. The hole should be narrow enough to hold the pin tightly, but not too tight, as PS easily cracks with too much tension. (You might have to do some test samples to find the right size.) - -After drilling, mark the immersion depth of the drill bit on your locking pins to see how far you can hammer them in without cracking the material. Finally, stick the plugs into the blind holes, hammer the locking pins in and cut the excess off. Use a file to smoothen and align the ends to the plastic edge. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-chair-with-bent-sheets/step_18.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-chair-with-bent-sheets/step_18.md deleted file mode 100644 index 47ebc266a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-chair-with-bent-sheets/step_18.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Backrest connector: Let the frame immerse - - To make the steel tube of the frame immerse nicely into the backrest, you can make a hole with a hole saw made from the same tube: Cut some teeth into the tube end with an angle grinder and file them a little. Then find or make a fitting shaft that fits into your cordless drill’s chuck, weld it on the tube and maybe use a lathe to achieve a straight rotation axis. - -Put your connecting plugs in place and use them to guide your hole saw while you’re cutting a smooth slot. Remember that PS melts quickly, so give the tool some cooling time and sharpen the teeth regularly. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-chair-with-bent-sheets/step_19.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-chair-with-bent-sheets/step_19.md deleted file mode 100644 index 81422bf1c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-chair-with-bent-sheets/step_19.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Drill holes for bolts - - Take the position of the tapped holes from the connector plugs and transfer them to the tube. After that, drill holes (Ø6mm) on the inner median of the tube’s bending radius. They will later hold together the frame and the connector plugs. It’s nice to use countersunk screws, they will make the joint invisible. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-chair-with-bent-sheets/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-chair-with-bent-sheets/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4525e61d6..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-chair-with-bent-sheets/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Cut your parts - - Before cutting to the exact shape, it’s easier to prepare simple wooden parts for the guides. - -Take the part list and the drawings and prepare all the wooden parts (number 1-14) needed for jigs and moulds. Make sure to put the corresponding part number on each piece, so you don’t mix them up later. Also mark the center line on parts 4 and 6-8. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-chair-with-bent-sheets/step_20.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-chair-with-bent-sheets/step_20.md deleted file mode 100644 index 3ea120fe3..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-chair-with-bent-sheets/step_20.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Assemble the frame - - Start by sticking the frame into the assembly jig, then attach the backrest with the connector plugs onto the frame. Weld the cross-braces (both seat and rear) to the legs and use the jigs to align everything accurately. Now it will pay off if you put effort into precise jigs! - -After welding, grind all the beats and make them look beautiful. -Remember: Grinder and paint make you the welder you ain't! :) diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-chair-with-bent-sheets/step_21.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-chair-with-bent-sheets/step_21.md deleted file mode 100644 index 07caee9a3..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-chair-with-bent-sheets/step_21.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Stamp your product - - Make sure to stamp every plastic part with its plastic type before it leaves your workspace! -You can use a simply heated metal wire or specially engraved stamps from the bazar. For the stamps, heat them up and clamp them to your plastic part. - -Related links: -👉 https://tinyurl.com/wirestamp -👉 bazar.preciousplastic.com diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-chair-with-bent-sheets/step_22.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-chair-with-bent-sheets/step_22.md deleted file mode 100644 index e07bf2fdc..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-chair-with-bent-sheets/step_22.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Put everything together - - Yeah, assembly time! -Put the backrest back in place. Then, enlarge the two pre-drilled holes in the seat and attach the frame with screws. While doing so, make sure that the seat’s alignment is straight. - -For the other four screws, clamp the cross-brace to the seat, pre-drill holes and screw it together. It’s recommended to use euro screws (the ones you know from attaching hinges to a cupboard), as they give a solid halt in the plastic. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-chair-with-bent-sheets/step_23.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-chair-with-bent-sheets/step_23.md deleted file mode 100644 index 495665964..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-chair-with-bent-sheets/step_23.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Alignment - - Now it’s time to cut the legs to the final length. Use scrap wood or wedges to make the frame stand sturdy on a plane surface without shaking. The height of the seat should be 440mm in the front and 430mm in the back. If this is not the case (most probably), set a height gauge to the difference between the as-is and to-be and mark all four legs. Then cut them off nicely along the carved lines. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-chair-with-bent-sheets/step_24.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-chair-with-bent-sheets/step_24.md deleted file mode 100644 index 910a4c43a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-chair-with-bent-sheets/step_24.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Finish the frame - - As plain steel easily rusts, we recommend giving the frame a nice finish. You can use various methods like a paint and brush, spray paint or powder coating. Have a look what method suits your available materials and capabilities best. In this case we used Montana Gold 7090 Coke spray paint. - -Remove the plastic parts for painting and put them back on once the paint is dry diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-chair-with-bent-sheets/step_25.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-chair-with-bent-sheets/step_25.md deleted file mode 100644 index 23641fd10..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-chair-with-bent-sheets/step_25.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Add pipe plugs - - Pipe plugs can help to protect both the chair and the floor from getting damaged by adding a soft layer in between. - -As it might be tricky to find the perfect fitting for the angled legs, we attached an STL-file for fitiing plugs. So if you have access to a 3D printer you can easily print them yourselves (preferably with recycled filament). The letter on the inside should be aligned as shown in picture 2. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-chair-with-bent-sheets/step_26.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-chair-with-bent-sheets/step_26.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4960475a0..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-chair-with-bent-sheets/step_26.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Make it live long! - - Congratulations, you made it! Enjoy and take care of your new chair. - -This chair is designed to be disassembled easily. So in case a part breaks or you want to change something, just unscrew the seat from the frame, unbolt the backrest and take it off. And lastly, hit the metal plug with a hammer to break the backrest apart (here we recommend wearing safety glasses to protect your eyes). - -Once you have all materials separate again, they can be reused or recycled for new products. Make sure to bring them to your local Precious Plastic workspace or recycle in another responsible way :) diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-chair-with-bent-sheets/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-chair-with-bent-sheets/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index ed232c23f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-chair-with-bent-sheets/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Laminate the drawings - - Cut the drawings along the dashed lines. Use a ruler and a sharp knife and work precisely. Then attach the drawings to your prepared wooden parts. If there are several drawings for one part, start from A and go on in alphabetical order. - -Apply spray glue on the back of one sheet, align it according to the instructions on the drawings and apply it evenly by pushing with your hands from the middle outwards. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-chair-with-bent-sheets/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-chair-with-bent-sheets/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 54cd7b7ff..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-chair-with-bent-sheets/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,13 +0,0 @@ -### Build the jigs - - Leg alignment: Cut the parts (1-3 and four wedges), drill the holes and screw everything together as shown in the drawings. - -Leg bending: Transfer the measurements from the plan to part 4, cut the required wooden pieces and screw them in place. - -Bending angle: Cut according to drawings (or adapt to your bending device) - -Cross-brace: Drill the 18mm tube holes, then saw along the cutting line. Make sure to stay on the hatched side! Assemble by screwing parts 5 in place. - -Sheet shape: Pre-drill holes and cut parts according to the drawing, then sand them smooth. - -Put some extra effort into the precision during this phase, as all the flaws made here are hereditary. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-chair-with-bent-sheets/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-chair-with-bent-sheets/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index dc49fda2c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-chair-with-bent-sheets/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Build the mould - - The last thing is to build the mould to bend the plastic sheet. You can find the building process for this mould in the How to make a mould to bend sheets 👉 https://tinyurl.com/mouldbendsheets \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-chair-with-bent-sheets/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-chair-with-bent-sheets/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2e9efad5d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-chair-with-bent-sheets/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Mould done! - - Great job, you should now have all the jigs, moulds and guides to start manufacturing the chairs! If you take care of them, you can use them over and over again. Take a break, step back and admire your work and effort! diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-chair-with-bent-sheets/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-chair-with-bent-sheets/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7878fb097..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-chair-with-bent-sheets/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Cut your plastic - - Finally we can start making our chair! -Begin with cutting the 14mm PS sheets for your seat and backrest to the dimensions in the part list. For a first rough shape, transfer the shape of the wooden jig to the plastic sheet with a thick marker and cut along that line with the jigsaw (more info about this process in the How to cut plastic: jigsaw 👉 https://tinyurl.com/cutjigsaw - -â—ï¸In this process, you’ll probably create a lot of plastic dust. Please be conscious and try to save it from going into the environment. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-chair-with-bent-sheets/step_8.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-chair-with-bent-sheets/step_8.md deleted file mode 100644 index 48737d2b8..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-chair-with-bent-sheets/step_8.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Smoothen the edges - - To refine the cut, screw the jig (through the pre-drilled holes) into the intended bottom side of your plastic sheet. Equip your router with a flush trim bit and set the height so that the bearing runs along the jig (shown in the image). Go against the rotation with a medium-low speed. And finally, use the router again to fillet the inner edges, for a better sitting comfort. - -Before removing the jig from the plastic, don’t forget to transfer the vertical centerline from the jig to the plastic parts as indicated in the drawings. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-chair-with-bent-sheets/step_9.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-chair-with-bent-sheets/step_9.md deleted file mode 100644 index 881f65315..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-chair-with-bent-sheets/step_9.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Bend the plastic sheets - - Time to bend! Learn the basics in the How-to “Bend sheets†and make sure to Stay safe when melting plastic. -Heat up your oven to 190°C and heat your sheets (parts A+B) for about 7min. Turn it half way through to ensure a more even heat distribution. We recommend using Teflon fabric or baking paper to prevent the plastic from sticking to the oven. - -When soft enough for bending, put the sheet into its mould and align it in the center and along the fence. After pre-bending by hand, put the upper part of the mould on top and make it snap into place. After a couple of minutes it should be cooled down and ready to be taken out of the mould. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-climbing-brush/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-climbing-brush/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 90c3ee9a4..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-climbing-brush/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Make a climbing brush - - -Make a climbing brush by kneading plastic dough and woodworking skills, to create a unique pattern. - -No shredder / other Precious Plastic is needed, just an oven needed. However, some powered tools like a sander, jaw saw, router, will make things much easier. - -If you find any improvement can be done, please leave comments or contact us on Instagram or Facebook to let us know. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-climbing-brush/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-climbing-brush/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 3ea225076..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-climbing-brush/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,15 +0,0 @@ -### Preparation - - For this project, the following tools are needed: -- Oven -- Oven tray -- Teflon Paper x2 -- Gloves (oven use) -- Mould, at least (W)30 x (L)250 x (H)20 -- Plastic (HDPE) -- White Glue -- Saw (jaw saw, band saw, etc.) -- Sander (40, 80, 120, 240, 400, 800 and 1000 grit are used) -- Polisher with a wool pad -- Soldiering Iron -- Woodworking Router diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-climbing-brush/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-climbing-brush/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 808a16471..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-climbing-brush/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Preparing Plastic (HDPE) Pieces - - For this project, we need to use HDPE, we had tested with PP but it is very hard to knead. Make sure the plastics are clean and all the labels are removed nicely. Cut them into pieces (size is not a big matter) and sort them by colour. - -The amount of plastic needed is determined by the size of the mould. For every 1cm3 of volume, a gram of plastic is needed. In our case, ~850g of HDPE is required. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-climbing-brush/step_10.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-climbing-brush/step_10.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4d84a11e0..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-climbing-brush/step_10.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Fine Sanding and Polishing - - When the shape of the brush is formed, keep sanding until 1000 girts. Then polish the brush with a wool pad at high speed. If any stretches appear, sand it again. - -Wax may also be used while polishing but not necessary. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-climbing-brush/step_11.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-climbing-brush/step_11.md deleted file mode 100644 index f43675953..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-climbing-brush/step_11.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Mill the Brush Head and Drill the Hole - - Glue the area to be a mill on the brush, and mill the brush with a router. 1-2 mm of the brush edge is kept. 10-15mm is the minimum depth of the hole, it will hold the firmness of the brush hair. - -Otherwise, drilling holes also works for the brush but insert time of the hair will greatly increase. - -Drill an M3-M5 hole at the end of the brush, for adding rope to the brush. - -REMINDER: Protect the brushes with masking tape. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-climbing-brush/step_12.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-climbing-brush/step_12.md deleted file mode 100644 index 90a849b3d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-climbing-brush/step_12.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Insert the Hair - - To insert the hair, epoxy is used sadly (Please tell me if there are any better ways). Fill up the area with 3-5 mm of epoxy and start putting the hair until no room left. - -Let the epoxy set. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-climbing-brush/step_13.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-climbing-brush/step_13.md deleted file mode 100644 index 243690f70..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-climbing-brush/step_13.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Cut the Hair - - Since the tip of the brush will consume mush faster, keep around 20 mm for the tip and 15 mm on another way. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-climbing-brush/step_14.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-climbing-brush/step_14.md deleted file mode 100644 index f120ff4fd..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-climbing-brush/step_14.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Go Climbing - - There is no reason to make a climbing brush but do not climb! Go to your climbing GYM or to the crag and start brushing the holes with your new brush! - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-climbing-brush/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-climbing-brush/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index a9b456ece..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-climbing-brush/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Melting the Plastic - - Stack up the plastic sheet on the oven tray with a Teflon sheet in between. If the plastics could not properly stack on the tray, put them into another volume with a Teflon sheet. - -Set the oven to 180-190 degrees Celsius, and ‘bake’ the plastic for around 25-30mins, until the plastics are all melted. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-climbing-brush/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-climbing-brush/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 842ae18e4..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-climbing-brush/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Stack, Cut and Knead - - Take out the plastic, definitely want a pair of thick gloves, then stack them up, cut off, fold them… Play with it and find your own way to stack multiple layers of colour in the plastic dough. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-climbing-brush/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-climbing-brush/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index c8214e0bc..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-climbing-brush/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Melt and Repeat - - After a few minutes, the ‘dough’ should be cool down, and it wouldn’t be able to knead. Put it back into the oven, melt it again and repeat until you are happy with the pattern. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-climbing-brush/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-climbing-brush/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 374b1d919..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-climbing-brush/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Forming Shape - - When you are satisfied with the ‘dough’, fit it into the mould and press it with something heavy. Wait for it to cool down. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-climbing-brush/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-climbing-brush/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index cb424f776..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-climbing-brush/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Cut the Block - - If you have a bigger mould, cut an around 30mm x 250mm x 25mm strip with a saw. -Cut it with a wood cutting blade will be fine. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-climbing-brush/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-climbing-brush/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index cb6b69185..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-climbing-brush/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Glue the Outline and cut it out - - Print the outline of the brush in 1:1 scale, and glue it onto the strip with white glue. If the surface is not flat and hard to glue, sand it with the sander. Then cut the outline out, offset 2-3mm for further sanding. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-climbing-brush/step_8.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-climbing-brush/step_8.md deleted file mode 100644 index 45a4bc159..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-climbing-brush/step_8.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Sanding into Desired Shape - - Sand the plastic into the desired shape, 40, 80, 120 girts of sandpaper is used. Both belt sander and hand sander are used, but either one is ok. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-climbing-brush/step_9.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-climbing-brush/step_9.md deleted file mode 100644 index 6c1501706..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-climbing-brush/step_9.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Fill Holes - - If there are any holes in the brush, fill them with leftover materials with a soldering iron. Then cut off the excessed plastic with a cuter and sand it again. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-coin-bottle-opener-mould/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-coin-bottle-opener-mould/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 99e382ace..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-coin-bottle-opener-mould/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Make a Coin Bottle Opener Mould - - -In this How-To you will get access to the necessary information to create your own Coin Bottle Opener. - -The opener is designed around a 10 Swiss cent piece. You can change the parameters in the Fusion file to fit the mould to your own coin. - -This model may be used as free giveaways/workshop products and similar. Please get in touch with the designer before you want to sell the openers or moulds. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-coin-bottle-opener-mould/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-coin-bottle-opener-mould/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 489f2c02a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-coin-bottle-opener-mould/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Download the file and adapt the parameters - - The opener is designed around a 10 Swiss cent piece. - -Change the parameters to fit the dimensions of your coin. Important to do this very carefully. If dimensions not correct the mould can leak, as it will not close properly and a little gap will remain (if the coin is too wide), or plastic will flow on the coin, covering it (if the coin is too thin). - -Adapt the parameters necessary for CNC milling. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-coin-bottle-opener-mould/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-coin-bottle-opener-mould/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 01ad8c8f4..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-coin-bottle-opener-mould/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### CNC milling - - Adapt the parameters to fit the CNC milling process. Please seek for advice to someone in your community that has experience, or order the mould from a Precious Plastic Workshop through the Bazar. - -Material: aluminium/steel \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-coin-bottle-opener-mould/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-coin-bottle-opener-mould/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index d91b4891a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-coin-bottle-opener-mould/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Feedback from our experience - - Material of mould: aluminium. We have been using the mould for 5 years, it has scratches now, but overall works very well. With steel you should have a longer lasting mould. - -Plastic used: Polypropylene (works perfectly) - -Colors: nice to have a color mix. Works great with transparent. People love black/white mix. - -Injection: quite easy as the mould is not too thin on any part. Mould rarely requires heating due to compact shape and no thin parts. Important to press enough as otherwise in the bottom the plastic will not adhere nicely to the mould, leaving an unfinished touch" \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-cyclette-shredder/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-cyclette-shredder/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 934c3b332..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-cyclette-shredder/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Make a Cyclette Shredder - - -In this step-by-step guide, we'll walk you through the process of building your very own plastic shredder powered by a bicycle. -The cyclette shredder is perfect for shredding small objects, like caps or bottles, but it's not recommended to run your recycle operations with it. - -So the best way to use the cyclette shredder would be in educational workshops and events, as it is a fun, engaging and interactive machine. - -*For the first 6 months the build files will be available to Precious Plastic supporters â™¥ï¸ on Patreon \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-cyclette-shredder/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-cyclette-shredder/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index da7f35ee3..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-cyclette-shredder/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,16 +0,0 @@ -### Become a supporter to download â™¥ï¸ - - We're thrilled to announce the release of the Cyclette Shredder machine, a collaboration between Precious Plastic and Precious Plastic Torino ðŸ¤ â™¥ï¸ -This is a major milestone for the community! - -Open sourcing a whole new machine doesn't come free unfortunately, the total costs was around 600€ (materials, time and transportation). For 6 months (until February 2024), the full blueprint of the machine will be available to Precious Plastic supporters on Patreon. After, it will be free and open source on this how-to. Forever. For anyone. - -Precious Plastic Supporter? -You can become a Precious Plastic supporter on Patreon for 7,5€ per month to support our work at https://www.patreon.com/one_army - -This will also give you: -- â™¥ï¸ badge on the community -- early access (Youtube, posts, downloads) -- voting power -- social media crediting (Youtube & IG), -- A badge and sticker \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-cyclette-shredder/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-cyclette-shredder/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index c189b6387..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-cyclette-shredder/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Tools needed - - The tools needed to build your cyclette shredder are: - -- Old Cyclette (ATALA): you can find one in second hand stores -- Steel Laser cutted parts for the frame -- Plexiglass laser cutted for protection and the box above -- Bicycle chain and gear -- A shredder block -- Other stuff to customize (bike pedal, bike knob, spray paint) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-cyclette-shredder/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-cyclette-shredder/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index c13a66c90..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-cyclette-shredder/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Frame - - You will need to remove: -1. All the plastic parts for cleaning + any other parts you would like to customize. -2. The metal part shown in the picture, and you will not use it again -3. The speed cable shown in the picture, and you will not use it again \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-cyclette-shredder/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-cyclette-shredder/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 3cf50d622..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-cyclette-shredder/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Building the Cyclette Shredder - - We've made a video with Precious Plastic that talks about how Precious Plastic Torino makes the cyclette shredder! - -Give it a watch :) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-cyclette-shredder/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-cyclette-shredder/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index b4f008ee0..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-cyclette-shredder/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Outcome & customizing - - Feel free to paint it as you like, you can get inspired by the pictures below! - - - -Happy shredding :) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-decorative-plaster-mould-soft-plastics/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-decorative-plaster-mould-soft-plastics/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 77c9f1ca3..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-decorative-plaster-mould-soft-plastics/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Make a decorative plaster mould (soft plastics) - - -Learn how to make a decorative plaster mould to use for soft plastics. There are two parts to this process. Stay tuned to learn how to work with plaster and then plastic in a decorative way. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-decorative-plaster-mould-soft-plastics/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-decorative-plaster-mould-soft-plastics/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 52a6c7d62..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-decorative-plaster-mould-soft-plastics/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,17 +0,0 @@ -### Create your plaster mould - - The first step is to collect your materials; -- scissors -- mixing stick -- liquid craft glue -- spray glue -- leafy material -- laminated cardboard or wood -- 4 laminated ply pieces -- plymer clay -- dust mask -- plaster -- water -- mixing containers -- soapy water -- brush \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-decorative-plaster-mould-soft-plastics/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-decorative-plaster-mould-soft-plastics/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index ac692adc9..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-decorative-plaster-mould-soft-plastics/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,14 +0,0 @@ -### Melt your plastic - - What you will need; - -- soft plastic -- oven -- baking paper -- oven tray --chemical & heatproof gloves --resperator mask & cartridges -- plank of wood -- drill -- screws -- hanging wire diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-decorative-plaster-mould-soft-plastics/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-decorative-plaster-mould-soft-plastics/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 224bc27e6..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-decorative-plaster-mould-soft-plastics/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Happy Melting! - - Plaster is a very cheap and versatile material, use it to make as many moulds as you like! Seriously......go crazy. Here are some examples of how different colours and shapes can give you a fantastic piece to and on your wall. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-dog-feeder/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-dog-feeder/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index d97572798..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-dog-feeder/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Make a dog feeder - - -A dog feeder is like a box that allows your pet to eat at a comfortable height. In this case, I use a compression method to create plastic sheets \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-dog-feeder/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-dog-feeder/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index f7dfc66ea..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-dog-feeder/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11 +0,0 @@ -### Make a plastic sheets - - We need 3 sheets -Top: 27 x27 cm - -Front base: 27x17 cm -Lateral base 25x17 cm - -Thickness sheet: 1 cm - -Poliestirene \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-dog-feeder/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-dog-feeder/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index f1fe3ff28..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-dog-feeder/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Plastic sheet cuts - - We have to cut three circles, one for the plate base, and two for the legs base. - -23 cm Circles - -In this case, We use a milling machine \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-dog-feeder/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-dog-feeder/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 1ea8c8545..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-dog-feeder/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Cut the sheets in half - - We have to cut the shets. -Here we use a bench saw machine -Is importantly to use all a personal protection elements to work safely \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-dog-feeder/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-dog-feeder/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index ff4fbec5d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-dog-feeder/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Assembled,glued and screwed - - Is time to assemble the dog feeder. It is advisable glue and screw to avoid breakage - -The whole process you can find on @​​​​marsinplast \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-durable-tote-bag-from-plastic-bags/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-durable-tote-bag-from-plastic-bags/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index caf2420d6..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-durable-tote-bag-from-plastic-bags/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Make a durable tote bag from plastic bags - - -Bjorn will show you a very simple technique to turn plastic bags into flat sheets (like fabric) to create a tote bag. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-durable-tote-bag-from-plastic-bags/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-durable-tote-bag-from-plastic-bags/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index a8a618b8c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-durable-tote-bag-from-plastic-bags/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Gather everything you need - - Before you start get all your gear ready: -- Respirator mask -- Lots of plastic PE bags from shopping or supermarkets -- Baking paper -- Cotton sheet -- Iron -- Sewing machine \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-durable-tote-bag-from-plastic-bags/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-durable-tote-bag-from-plastic-bags/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 862cf0a77..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-durable-tote-bag-from-plastic-bags/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Watch this video tutorial - - Watch this video tutorial to learn step-by-step how to transform lots of shopping bags into a more durable and cool tote bag. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-durable-tote-bag-from-plastic-bags/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-durable-tote-bag-from-plastic-bags/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 871c8c211..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-durable-tote-bag-from-plastic-bags/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Done & Share - - After watching this video you should understand the basics of this simple technique. You can reproduce the tote bag or try to make other products. We’re looking forward to seeing what you can come up with. Make sure to share back your new creations so the community can learn from you. Tag #preciousplastic on social media, create a new how-to or send us an email. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-face-shield-with-a-pet-bottle/Step_-_get_elastic_Band.PNG b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-face-shield-with-a-pet-bottle/Step_-_get_elastic_Band.PNG deleted file mode 100644 index f821befd1..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-face-shield-with-a-pet-bottle/Step_-_get_elastic_Band.PNG +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -version https://git-lfs.github.com/spec/v1 -oid sha256:061ac0a04440e388feec3662f13e2d00476c247033c1e55a145ff8ca3a87831a -size 78608 diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-face-shield-with-a-pet-bottle/Step_0-_How_to_make_a_Face_Shield.PNG b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-face-shield-with-a-pet-bottle/Step_0-_How_to_make_a_Face_Shield.PNG deleted file mode 100644 index cebdbb078..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-face-shield-with-a-pet-bottle/Step_0-_How_to_make_a_Face_Shield.PNG +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -version https://git-lfs.github.com/spec/v1 -oid sha256:9f83e79f5f855a4dcc34679a74965ec95d283960df09d58188acb57ed8848d47 -size 78443 diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-face-shield-with-a-pet-bottle/Step_3-Prapare_bottle_3_cut_allong_the_middle.PNG b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-face-shield-with-a-pet-bottle/Step_3-Prapare_bottle_3_cut_allong_the_middle.PNG deleted file mode 100644 index 91f88cbb9..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-face-shield-with-a-pet-bottle/Step_3-Prapare_bottle_3_cut_allong_the_middle.PNG +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -version https://git-lfs.github.com/spec/v1 -oid sha256:b2f4ba2765524b792423d32e9188b0176e43745bcff5b16ecb4129e8b9aeb0ee -size 62621 diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-face-shield-with-a-pet-bottle/Step_3-prapare_bottle.PNG b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-face-shield-with-a-pet-bottle/Step_3-prapare_bottle.PNG deleted file mode 100644 index 077f76526..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-face-shield-with-a-pet-bottle/Step_3-prapare_bottle.PNG +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -version https://git-lfs.github.com/spec/v1 -oid sha256:7f3a080d1ad96910ec7f8a1098acd4a120be7646751426481e211d30be75dd09 -size 64402 diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-face-shield-with-a-pet-bottle/Step_3_pepare_bottle_bottom_part.PNG b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-face-shield-with-a-pet-bottle/Step_3_pepare_bottle_bottom_part.PNG deleted file mode 100644 index e0297c4e7..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-face-shield-with-a-pet-bottle/Step_3_pepare_bottle_bottom_part.PNG +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -version https://git-lfs.github.com/spec/v1 -oid sha256:493129611b6911fbddd8d1ae6207e3489cf185950b54c14e4b1ed7d55fc2043c -size 47620 diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-face-shield-with-a-pet-bottle/Step_4-_Connect_bottom_part.PNG b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-face-shield-with-a-pet-bottle/Step_4-_Connect_bottom_part.PNG deleted file mode 100644 index d7d787605..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-face-shield-with-a-pet-bottle/Step_4-_Connect_bottom_part.PNG +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -version https://git-lfs.github.com/spec/v1 -oid sha256:259b82848727272f79363506a924cac443fcc7f36fc82338a20583a67ddc4b2c -size 66447 diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-face-shield-with-a-pet-bottle/Step_4-_Connect_top_part.PNG b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-face-shield-with-a-pet-bottle/Step_4-_Connect_top_part.PNG deleted file mode 100644 index d8e61a425..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-face-shield-with-a-pet-bottle/Step_4-_Connect_top_part.PNG +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -version https://git-lfs.github.com/spec/v1 -oid sha256:f8bde638716561b9d1ef0ccc64b0facab16d7647cf6aec660e1be30fad2b9c4c -size 51591 diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-face-shield-with-a-pet-bottle/Step_4_-_Hot_fuse.PNG b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-face-shield-with-a-pet-bottle/Step_4_-_Hot_fuse.PNG deleted file mode 100644 index bbf241632..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-face-shield-with-a-pet-bottle/Step_4_-_Hot_fuse.PNG +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -version https://git-lfs.github.com/spec/v1 -oid sha256:319f24297de3ea43071cf6875565c98d0ea238ac7aff1ef3a0ae78e18c89d0a6 -size 68345 diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-face-shield-with-a-pet-bottle/Step_5_Use_Nail_sissors.PNG b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-face-shield-with-a-pet-bottle/Step_5_Use_Nail_sissors.PNG deleted file mode 100644 index 29a26986e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-face-shield-with-a-pet-bottle/Step_5_Use_Nail_sissors.PNG +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -version https://git-lfs.github.com/spec/v1 -oid sha256:0e139fa9d9972d8dba96f024b741cb99b7b33fba05a4df80cd3c92e58750eb18 -size 75847 diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-face-shield-with-a-pet-bottle/Step_5_cutting.PNG b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-face-shield-with-a-pet-bottle/Step_5_cutting.PNG deleted file mode 100644 index 313ac40b6..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-face-shield-with-a-pet-bottle/Step_5_cutting.PNG +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -version https://git-lfs.github.com/spec/v1 -oid sha256:e2769d35931446ef4373e783e8ffa3c39e4e9a2ce2afd3ddf9bbf2b3b3492ff9 -size 70094 diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-face-shield-with-a-pet-bottle/Step_6_attach_Elastic_Band.PNG b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-face-shield-with-a-pet-bottle/Step_6_attach_Elastic_Band.PNG deleted file mode 100644 index 2f3e144fa..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-face-shield-with-a-pet-bottle/Step_6_attach_Elastic_Band.PNG +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -version https://git-lfs.github.com/spec/v1 -oid sha256:6ffc6623f8812385c6111cdb978458cd6c8758db9eef74cd83543241711727f7 -size 63888 diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-face-shield-with-a-pet-bottle/Step_7_desinfecting.PNG b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-face-shield-with-a-pet-bottle/Step_7_desinfecting.PNG deleted file mode 100644 index 46880cfb4..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-face-shield-with-a-pet-bottle/Step_7_desinfecting.PNG +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -version https://git-lfs.github.com/spec/v1 -oid sha256:17ece686b18396b609c45c1ae0847a5b6195244e181b61f69572dcd1beaeb2ca -size 68511 diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-face-shield-with-a-pet-bottle/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-face-shield-with-a-pet-bottle/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4dbcb3f0c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-face-shield-with-a-pet-bottle/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Make a Face Shield with a PET bottle - - -There is a global shortage of protective equipment, not even the people are currently keeping our society running. But everyone with a 3D-Printer can help and manufacture face shields for the people who are working in the front line. With this Design you can make Faceshields with a and recycle a PET bottle. - -We made a Video about the assembly to: - -https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6u6y6gD17rk&feature=youtu.be \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-face-shield-with-a-pet-bottle/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-face-shield-with-a-pet-bottle/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 29f2dafd3..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-face-shield-with-a-pet-bottle/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Print Parts - - 3D-Print the Top and bottom part of the shield. Download the Files for free from Thiniverse or Prusa or use the files in the zipped folder you can download here. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-face-shield-with-a-pet-bottle/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-face-shield-with-a-pet-bottle/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9240222fe..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-face-shield-with-a-pet-bottle/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Get elastic Band - - You can use normal white elastic band like in our Video, but elastic band with button holes works best. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-face-shield-with-a-pet-bottle/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-face-shield-with-a-pet-bottle/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index e006687be..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-face-shield-with-a-pet-bottle/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Prepare bottle - - First of all, you need to wash out the bottle and then cut off the top and bottom parts. Finally cut along the side of the bottle so you can bend the Plastic open. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-face-shield-with-a-pet-bottle/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-face-shield-with-a-pet-bottle/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 994f289ca..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-face-shield-with-a-pet-bottle/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Connect 3D-Printed parts - - Start off with the bottom part. Fold open the PET bottle and press it into the the slit. The use the soldering iron to melt the PET and the printed parts in 3 Points that are visible from the inside. - -The Next step is to attach the top part. First, use a edding to mark where to make holes in the bottle. Then use the soldering iron to melt these holes. After attaching the top part you can use the soldering iron the melt the plastic together for additional stregth. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-face-shield-with-a-pet-bottle/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-face-shield-with-a-pet-bottle/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index f96de378b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-face-shield-with-a-pet-bottle/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Round off corners - - Use nail scissors to round off corners at the bottom of the PET shield. If you don't have nail scissors you can also use normal scissors. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-face-shield-with-a-pet-bottle/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-face-shield-with-a-pet-bottle/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index f0b2a018a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-face-shield-with-a-pet-bottle/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Attach elastic band - - First, cut about 16-20cm of elastic band. Tie the elastic band around the two holders on both sides and make sure they are secure. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-face-shield-with-a-pet-bottle/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-face-shield-with-a-pet-bottle/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index 753452e9c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-face-shield-with-a-pet-bottle/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Disinfect - - Use Disinfectant and wipe over the inner side of the shield to kill off any bacteria. PRUSA has made and is constantly updating a Sterilisation Guide. Be sure to check it out for more information. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-face-shield-with-a-pet-bottle/step_6_-_attached_band.PNG b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-face-shield-with-a-pet-bottle/step_6_-_attached_band.PNG deleted file mode 100644 index b9c306c55..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-face-shield-with-a-pet-bottle/step_6_-_attached_band.PNG +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -version https://git-lfs.github.com/spec/v1 -oid sha256:0d8d3a0ef2af2b64ca2b67c85497d86fd82bd05445f2cebfdbd1fa1381f73cee -size 53922 diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-face-shield-without-mould/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-face-shield-without-mould/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index dfdf3682e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-face-shield-without-mould/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Make a face shield (without mould) - - -We use the extruder to make the structure of a protective mask, without molds. For this, three strips of 55 Cm, ​​40 Cm and 28 Cm are made. For the protective screen we have used an old folder. - -https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BTiQqPFE9vs \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-face-shield-without-mould/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-face-shield-without-mould/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 0e56ac97b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-face-shield-without-mould/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Beginning - - We use the extruder to make the strips that will hold the mask. In case of you don´tt have an extruder you can use the strap of a bag or an old belt. And we will use an old folder for the screen. We will cut the transparent part and then join it to the resulting structure. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-face-shield-without-mould/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-face-shield-without-mould/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 38763a173..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-face-shield-without-mould/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### We make a strips - - We make a 55 cm long and 1 cm wide strip with the extruder, once the strip has cooled, we surround the head with it to mark where we will close it.and we will use an old folder for the screen. We will cut the transparent part and then join it to the resulting structure. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-face-shield-without-mould/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-face-shield-without-mould/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 3e752b5ee..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-face-shield-without-mould/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### We make the holes - - Then we make two holes through which we pass a string to close it. In our case we have used a fishing line that we collected on the beach. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-face-shield-without-mould/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-face-shield-without-mould/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index c14149c5a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-face-shield-without-mould/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### We make the rest of strips - - We make two other strips, one 40 cm and the other 28 cm. The 40cm screen will display the mask. The 28 Cm will serve to better hold the mask to the head. The holes in the two strips will be made to join them later \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-face-shield-without-mould/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-face-shield-without-mould/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index b700933c1..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-face-shield-without-mould/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Assembly - - The structure will be mounted with the three strips and then the screen will be put on with a little tie or a bridle. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-face-shield-without-mould/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-face-shield-without-mould/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index d764ceed6..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-face-shield-without-mould/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Well done! - - You made your own face shield \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-flat-nozzle-for-the-extrusion-machine/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-flat-nozzle-for-the-extrusion-machine/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index bf4d72d9f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-flat-nozzle-for-the-extrusion-machine/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Make a flat nozzle for the Extrusion Machine - - -The flat nozzle is a great addition to the extrusion machine. It enables one to cover greater surface with less plastic, increasing production time and new avenues for larger, watertight products. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-flat-nozzle-for-the-extrusion-machine/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-flat-nozzle-for-the-extrusion-machine/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index ac6d528a9..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-flat-nozzle-for-the-extrusion-machine/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,12 +0,0 @@ -### Gather materials and tools - - To make a flat nozzle you will need: - -- 26mm (1") Round Tube. *It must fit into your extruder head. -- 5mm x 5mm Square bar. 100mm will be enough -- File -- Sander -- Vise -- Angle grinder or Metal saw -- Welding machine -- BSPT Thread cutter diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-flat-nozzle-for-the-extrusion-machine/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-flat-nozzle-for-the-extrusion-machine/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 41a870f3a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-flat-nozzle-for-the-extrusion-machine/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Thread your pipe - - Now that you have your tools and materials ready, it's time to start making! To start the process we will need to clamp the length of pipe into a vise and make a thread with the thread cutter. Some pressure is needed to start the cut, so it can be useful starting in the vertical position so that you can use gravity to assist. Remember to use some oil to keep the cut smooth and your teeth sharp. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-flat-nozzle-for-the-extrusion-machine/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-flat-nozzle-for-the-extrusion-machine/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 19719f27c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-flat-nozzle-for-the-extrusion-machine/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Cut pipe and bar - - After threading the tip of pipe, we can cut it to a length that suites your machine. In this example 60mm was cut to allow room for the heating element and final sizing. -While we're at it, we can cut two pieces of the square bar that will be used to make the mouth of the nozzle. It's important to cut the bar slightly wider than the tube. Leaving ~5mm extra on either side. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-flat-nozzle-for-the-extrusion-machine/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-flat-nozzle-for-the-extrusion-machine/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2d35a6d02..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-flat-nozzle-for-the-extrusion-machine/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Bend the pipe - - To get the plastic flowing smoothly into into its new flat shape, we'll need to taper the pipe from a circle into an oval. We do this by putting the edge of the nozzle into the vise and slowly apply pressure. It's easy to over-do it here, so take it slow and check regularly. Try to avoid bendnig on the seam if your pipe has one and it can help to put a nut over or some wood inside the thread area to avoid deformation of thread. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-flat-nozzle-for-the-extrusion-machine/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-flat-nozzle-for-the-extrusion-machine/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 6f361bdac..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-flat-nozzle-for-the-extrusion-machine/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Soften the edges - - During the cuts and bending your parts, they can get a bit rough. It's important to remove any excess material and round all your edges with a sander or a file. This will help your parts fit together well and make handling your nozzle more comfortable. A crucial spot to focus on is the section that has just been bent because it has most likely deformed. This is where the two pieces of bar will be welded, so getting it flat is a good idea! diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-flat-nozzle-for-the-extrusion-machine/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-flat-nozzle-for-the-extrusion-machine/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 36813b3b8..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-flat-nozzle-for-the-extrusion-machine/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Weld the mouth - - This is the last step in the process and is crucial to do your best. You should choose how wide you want the nozzle to be and find an object to maintain that distance. In this example an old angle grinder disc has been used as a spacer. The two pieces have been held together with a clamp and tacked to the pipe on the short edges. Once you have those in place, you can then seal up the long edges and finish the nozzle. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-flat-nozzle-for-the-extrusion-machine/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-flat-nozzle-for-the-extrusion-machine/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8833cfa8c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-flat-nozzle-for-the-extrusion-machine/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### 'Strude some flat noods - - With your nozzle all finished, it's time to extrude around your meticulous mould and create those epic objects from your imagination. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-handplane-simple-mould/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-handplane-simple-mould/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9ddefce98..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-handplane-simple-mould/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Make a handplane (simple mould) - - -How to make a simple mold for injection molding out of metal sheet or existing metal forms. As an example we will focus on a bodysurf handplane fabrication. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-handplane-simple-mould/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-handplane-simple-mould/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index c9bc945b2..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-handplane-simple-mould/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### PLAN YOUR DESIGN - - You can build a very simple mold directly from metal plate or existing metal. The first step is to design your object to stay simple while functional, and to define the use of your product in order to most efficiently reduce its complexity. Taking the bodysurf handplane as an example: it’s main purpose is to increase the surface of your hand while bodysurfing, the second purpose is to give some hook in the wave. The first purpose can be achieved by a big enough plank while the second can be achieved by fins, channels or simply a concave hull. This last option is the simplest to achieve without a complex CNC mold. -It’s beneficial to carry out research into similar industrial products. We researched available handplanes, and (surprise) they looked much the same as our design, with some complex additions that didn’t make any difference to us while testing. We would suggest that you should not try to exactly replicate industrial products, nor take too much inspiration from them. Use them to verify your ideas, once your thinking process is complete. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-handplane-simple-mould/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-handplane-simple-mould/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 73d5859c1..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-handplane-simple-mould/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### LIMITATIONS & TESTING - - As complex shapes will be hard to achieve without complex machinery, you will have to finish your product by hand. With our handplanes we simplify everything as much as possible, to reduce this post-injection finishing time and material waste. Simplification is key. -For the purpose of testing our design, we carried out trials with compressed plastic plates, cut to different shapes and then bent to different diameter concaves. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-handplane-simple-mould/step_10.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-handplane-simple-mould/step_10.md deleted file mode 100644 index 0519da909..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-handplane-simple-mould/step_10.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### SELECT THE PLASTIC - - We decided to work with PolyPropylene (PP) on this project as we had plenty available in various colors. HDPE should also work well, but PS may not be flexible enough for this use. Once the plastic is cleaned and sorted by type and color, you can shred it and fill the injection machine with these granules. The handplanes weigh 200g so we chose to fill the machine with at least 250g of plastic, to have enough to maintain the pressure. On our machine, 20 minutes with 200°C on the top and 220°C on the bottom of the barrel works fine. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-handplane-simple-mould/step_11.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-handplane-simple-mould/step_11.md deleted file mode 100644 index 964b35049..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-handplane-simple-mould/step_11.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### INJECT & COOL - - Once the plastic is heated, you should remove the injection barrel plug and screw the mold on as quickly as possible. We generally remove the first drop of melted plastic in doing so, as it is often colder. -Injection should be done as fast as possible. Once the injector is pushed to its maximum, we maintain the pressure for 30 seconds, then unscrew the mold and immediately drop it into water. The plastic is under pressure inside the mold and will tend to leak out once unscrewed, but the water will cool the plastic, maintaining the pressure inside during the cooling process. For this product we leave the mold for 2 minutes in the water, and then 15 minutes outside before unscrewing it and extracting a freshly made handplane. This time can be used to refill the injection barrel to optimise production. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-handplane-simple-mould/step_12.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-handplane-simple-mould/step_12.md deleted file mode 100644 index 6822b7a4f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-handplane-simple-mould/step_12.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### FINISH THE PRODUCT - - Without CNC it is difficult to make complex forms, and using our molding method we could not obtain completely finished products, the final plastic form has to be finished by hand. This finishing takes approximately 45 minutes per handplane. With the 30 minutes required by the injection (if done in series) and 45 minutes of cleaning, sorting and shredding the plastic, this handplane requires about 2 hours of work. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-handplane-simple-mould/step_13.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-handplane-simple-mould/step_13.md deleted file mode 100644 index 70b2dac3a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-handplane-simple-mould/step_13.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### SHAPING THE RAILS - - The edges of a surfboard or handplane are called rails. We start by chamfering the top edges at 45° with a band sanding machine. On the bottom â…” of the handplane the chamfer removes ½ of the thickness. On the top â…“ the chamfer removes only â…“ of the thickness. In the same area, we made a smaller 45° chamfer of â…™ of the thickness. The transition should be smooth and visually checked consistently during the shaping. Working with a chamfer allows you to visualise the line to keep your rounding straight. We then finalize the rounding with a blade. This way you produce a bright surface without the need for fine polishing. This process only creates shavings, which can be remelted to go towards another handplane. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-handplane-simple-mould/step_14.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-handplane-simple-mould/step_14.md deleted file mode 100644 index d2c9640d8..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-handplane-simple-mould/step_14.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### DRILLING THE STRAP HOLES - - Once the rails are shaped, we are able to use the template attached to position the strap holes. If you want to make it perfectly adapted to your hand, your wrist should be on the bottom rail, and the inner holes should be spaced by the distance between your pointer and little finger + 10mm. The adjacent holes should be separated by 10mm and the length of the holes will be your strap width. To drill them, we first drill two 4mm round holes on both sides, and then join them with a dremel and a cutting disk. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-handplane-simple-mould/step_15.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-handplane-simple-mould/step_15.md deleted file mode 100644 index a8cdc5cbf..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-handplane-simple-mould/step_15.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### MOUNT THE STRAP - - We sew an adjustable buckle on to the strap and then pass it through the holes. The leash is 700mm long, with a bowline to attach it to the handplane and a hangman’s knot around the wrist. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-handplane-simple-mould/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-handplane-simple-mould/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 5667ef7c0..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-handplane-simple-mould/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### FIND THE BEST MATERIAL - - In this example we will focus on the handplane mold. As we defined that the most important parameter will be the concave mould, we needed to find a metallic piece corresponding to this concave diameter. Our testing showed us that Ø600mm would give the optimal concave, which then brings us to two options: Find a nominal OD600 pipe in a scrapyard, or ask a boilermaker to roll a plate to this diameter. Here we went for the second option as it was the easiest to find in our area. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-handplane-simple-mould/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-handplane-simple-mould/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 21a52691a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-handplane-simple-mould/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### CHOOSE YOUR WIDTH & THICKNESS - - We used a stainless steel plate as this would require less finishing (see finishing chapter - step 9), and is compatible with a steel casted plug for welding purposes (see welding chapter - step 7). Using a black steel plate is also completely fine and will work the same. -The plate width should correspond to your handplane length. Here, the handplane is 250mm long, so a 300mm width plate will be fine to allow space for drilling the bolt holes (see drilling chapter - step 8). For thickness, we observed within our testing that 4mm would be the minimum necessary to handle injection pressure. For this mold we decided on 5mm, as we wanted our handplane to be 5mm thick (see cutting chapter - step 5). \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-handplane-simple-mould/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-handplane-simple-mould/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 0bfce3db9..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-handplane-simple-mould/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### MOULD EXPLAINED - - This mold is made from three plates: the top plate with the nozzle welded, the spacer with the outline of the handplane cut, and the bottom part left untouched. Our pieces are 25mm width as the handplanes are 20mm width. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-handplane-simple-mould/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-handplane-simple-mould/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4bb074431..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-handplane-simple-mould/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### CUT THE SPACER - - First you should draw an outline on the middle plate that will become the spacer. You can draw your own shape (half ellipse 250*200mm shapes works well, but feel free to be creative!). We first used a grinder with a cutting disk to cut as close as possible to the drawn line, then with a flap disk to get closer. Finally we used a dremel with a metal reamer to reach the desired precision. To be sure that the shape was symmetrical, we drew on to paper using our freshly cut spacer as a guide. Then, by folding the paper in two along a longitudinal line, we could see clearly that both side were identical and correct. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-handplane-simple-mould/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-handplane-simple-mould/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index a16224747..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-handplane-simple-mould/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### WELD THE NOZZLE - - As we are working the original Precious Plastic injection machine, we welded a ½’ nozzle on the top plate. The nozzle should be made from steel to be weldable, and grinded flat. If your plate is stainless steel you should use a stainless steel wire metal as it will be a dissimilar material weld. Type 308 or 309 should be your first choice, but type 304 or 316 will do the job (and easier to find). \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-handplane-simple-mould/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-handplane-simple-mould/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8021d3a9f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-handplane-simple-mould/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### BUILD THE MOLD - - We drilled the injection with a 5mm drill bit, this hole should be drilled in the middle of the nozzle and done after welding to ensure a good alignment. All other drilling was made with a 8,5mm drill bit and should be done on all three plate at the same time to ensure good alignment. The three plates can be bolted together as the drilling is ongoing. We would recommend one drill every 50-100mm to secure the sealing. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-handplane-simple-mould/step_8.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-handplane-simple-mould/step_8.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8acebb63f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-handplane-simple-mould/step_8.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### FINISH AND ASSEMBLE - - If you choose to go for a black steel plate then you will need to sand it to remove the scale. Only the surfaces in contact with your plastic need to be sanded. You can start with a 220 grain then go progressively to 400, 600, 800, 1000 and 1500. Sanding your metal will also protect it from rusting as water will easily flow over the surface (see injection chapter - step 12). Now the mold is finished and only needs to be bolted together! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-handplane-simple-mould/step_9.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-handplane-simple-mould/step_9.md deleted file mode 100644 index 64a78b4b3..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-handplane-simple-mould/step_9.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### MODIFY INJECTION MACHINE - - Our handplane requires more plastic to be injected than the current PP machine allows. We modified and built a larger injection barrel. You can see in another documentation this process. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-jointed-tray/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-jointed-tray/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 698094bd2..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-jointed-tray/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Make a Jointed Tray - - -Working with sheets to make valuable objects with wood joint techniques. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-jointed-tray/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-jointed-tray/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 1b313dbc4..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-jointed-tray/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### 3D Modelling the product - - In this case we used Solidworks to model and render the product so we could export the necessary patterns and to render the product so the client could see it and approve it. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-jointed-tray/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-jointed-tray/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index d5237c7b1..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-jointed-tray/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Print the patterns - - They are the key to make it accurate cuts and thereby good joints. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-jointed-tray/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-jointed-tray/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9397ab51d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-jointed-tray/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Make sheet and make rough cuts - - Once you make the sheet, we made it in PLA, cut it so you get the five pieces necessary to make de product. Depending on the cutting tool you could make it more or less accurate. We make them with a not so precise endless saw, so the were rough cuts and then we improved the edges with a router. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-jointed-tray/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-jointed-tray/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index b3a85d98b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-jointed-tray/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Transfer the patterns and cut - - Fists transfer all the markings to the pieces and start cutting, the key here to cut a little less than necessary and then try the joint, cut more and repeat this process until it's a perfecto fit. Besides de cutting, we used a lime to get more soft edges and little dimensional changes. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-jointed-tray/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-jointed-tray/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8f4b891c8..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-jointed-tray/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Final assembly and welding - - Once you have all nice and fitted, with a heat gun and a spatula we weld locally some joint so the entire tray stays always nice and sturdy. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-jointed-tray/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-jointed-tray/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4c7d26ba0..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-jointed-tray/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Finally, nice set up & photos - - Contextualise and details :) - -More photos here: -https://www.instagram.com/p/CCjX6kUAuLU/ \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-kitchen-knife-from-recycled-plastic/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-kitchen-knife-from-recycled-plastic/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 11a4c3b71..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-kitchen-knife-from-recycled-plastic/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,19 +0,0 @@ -### Make a kitchen knife from recycled plastic - - -With this mould you are able to inject 3 ergonomic knife handles. The mould is designed for different blade sizes up to 2cm wide. - -With a handle weight of 25g your injection machine need to inject 75g to fill the mould. With the Precious Plastic injection machine with a capacity of about 100g this is not a problem. - -For the blades you need to 3D-Print inserts that matches the blades at the right spot. The plastic type Polypropylene is recommended for this product and is also milled into the mould. Also the "Precious Plastic" branding is milled in. - -If you don´t have blades available you can order them also at the Precious Plastic Bazar. - -The product design, the mould design and the insert design for the Precious Plastic blades are opensource, so you are able recreate the mould or change it to your needs. - -If you are just interested in the knifes you can order them on the bazar. - -If you need help with the mould or the inserts let me know. - -Happy recycling! -Thomas @@{rrguoBLGigPW35rVXqCoPTQdjh13:johannplasto} \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-kitchen-knife-from-recycled-plastic/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-kitchen-knife-from-recycled-plastic/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index a932190ff..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-kitchen-knife-from-recycled-plastic/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,15 +0,0 @@ -### Mill the Mould - - Download the .stp-files and the blueprints for the mould for CNC milling. - -Metal examples for CNC Milling: - -Aluminium: -Aluminium - 7050 -Aluminium - 7075-T6 -Aluminium - 7075-T651 - -Steel: -Mild steel 1045 - -CNC mill the mould accourding to the blueprint and insert 8x10mm Dowel pins. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-kitchen-knife-from-recycled-plastic/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-kitchen-knife-from-recycled-plastic/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index de613062f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-kitchen-knife-from-recycled-plastic/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Get your blades - - You can use blades up to 2cm wide (at the insert spot) or order the Precious Plastic blades on the Precious Plastic Bazar. These are high quality & super sharp blades from Solingen (Germany). Material: Stainless steel 1.4116 \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-kitchen-knife-from-recycled-plastic/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-kitchen-knife-from-recycled-plastic/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 6d3caa3d0..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-kitchen-knife-from-recycled-plastic/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### 3D-Print the inserts - - If you use the Precious Plastic blades you can download the .stl-file of the insert for 3D-Printing. -If you use other blades use the .stp-file of the insert and change it to your needs. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-kitchen-knife-from-recycled-plastic/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-kitchen-knife-from-recycled-plastic/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index d5c5b0f5e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-kitchen-knife-from-recycled-plastic/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Assemble the mould - - Slide the inserts on the blades and align them into the mould so they fit the right spot of the handle (see the picture). -Close the mould with M8x40 screws. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-kitchen-knife-from-recycled-plastic/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-kitchen-knife-from-recycled-plastic/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4252301b6..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-kitchen-knife-from-recycled-plastic/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Inject - - Fill the injection machine with about 100g Polypropylene, heat up for 10-12min, check the viscosity of the outcoming plastic, if everything is alright inject fast and hold a strong pressure for about 30sec. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-kitchen-knife-from-recycled-plastic/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-kitchen-knife-from-recycled-plastic/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index fe7b1909b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-kitchen-knife-from-recycled-plastic/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Deassemble & Finishing - - Unscrew the mould, use the demoulding pockets to open the mould if necessary, knock out the sprue, cut the runners and finish the handle with a knife and flame. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-kitchen-knife-from-recycled-plastic/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-kitchen-knife-from-recycled-plastic/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index 500dee349..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-kitchen-knife-from-recycled-plastic/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Video - - Check out the story behind the knife and see the process of making the knife in the Johannplasto workshop. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-lamp-with-beams/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-lamp-with-beams/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 0619760b5..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-lamp-with-beams/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Make a lamp with beams - - -Ambient light made with the technique of extruded beam. Embracing the qualities of translucent polystyrene, giving what was once old CD cases a new life. - -To make this lamp you will need a groove in your beam to place the LED stripe inside. - -This How-to will explain: -Step 1-10: How to make two parts extrusion mould -Step 11-17: How to assemble the lamp diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-lamp-with-beams/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-lamp-with-beams/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 465163414..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-lamp-with-beams/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,16 +0,0 @@ -### Get ready - - Check out the attached material list and get your materials ready for the mould and making the lights. - -Equipment: -- Metalworking tools/workspace -- Extrusion machine -- shredded PS - -A quick tip: make sure you make your mold longer than your lamp length! The extreme ends are always on a low quality so it’s easier to cut them off. I would say at least 5 cm longer on each side. - - -Related links: -Extrude beams 👉 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zNGuuSKE1pY -Make glass-like beams 👉 https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/make-glass-like-beams - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-lamp-with-beams/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-lamp-with-beams/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index fcda08e50..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-lamp-with-beams/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Choose your design - - In our case, we wanted to obtain an ambient light. - -After making a few tests we decided to cut the oval beam we found in the scrapyard to obtain a smaller profile and so allow the light to spread more equally. - -Mark the height you want with a metal marking tool, then you can cut the beam with an angle grinder. Make sure to be accurate. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-lamp-with-beams/step_10.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-lamp-with-beams/step_10.md deleted file mode 100644 index 024362015..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-lamp-with-beams/step_10.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11 +0,0 @@ -### Gather lamp components - - To make this lamp your will need: - -- LED stripe 1m -- metal wires to hang your lamp (In this case 2 per lamp) with their connectors. -- power controller -- cable -- laser cut metal bar to cover LED -- 2 mm bolts 8mm long -- BEAM diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-lamp-with-beams/step_11.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-lamp-with-beams/step_11.md deleted file mode 100644 index c785af2aa..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-lamp-with-beams/step_11.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Metal bar - - To cover the LED stripe and hang the beam from the ceiling, we designed a metal bar that holds the pieces together. -We made drawings for lasercutting, for a better finish. - -You will need to engrave the central lines to stick the LED stripe exactly in the middle, the sidelines to facilitate the bending, cut 5mm holes on each side where you will let the light cable pass through and cut 2.5mm grove which will allow to slot the metal cable through. - -If you lasercut we recommend to send more than one piece as the unit price will get cheaper. -You can find the CAD file attached above. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-lamp-with-beams/step_12.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-lamp-with-beams/step_12.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2aba5f60a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-lamp-with-beams/step_12.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Cut your beam - - After extracting your beam from the mold cut the right length that will match your metal plate. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-lamp-with-beams/step_13.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-lamp-with-beams/step_13.md deleted file mode 100644 index 1399a8585..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-lamp-with-beams/step_13.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Bend the plate - - Place the plate in the metal device along the line previously engraved and bend it with a hammer. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-lamp-with-beams/step_14.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-lamp-with-beams/step_14.md deleted file mode 100644 index afd319d82..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-lamp-with-beams/step_14.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Prepare the beam and the bar - - Before assembling everything together with 3mm bolts you will need to drill 3mm holes on both sides of the beam matching with the bar’s holes previously laser cut. You do this by clamping the beam together with the metal plate already bent. - -After that take them apart and thread 3mm holes on the bar to fit the bolts. Finish off the beam, sand the edges and the sides so now you can insert the 4mm bolts on the sides to check if they match. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-lamp-with-beams/step_15.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-lamp-with-beams/step_15.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8d5be45be..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-lamp-with-beams/step_15.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Assemble - - Once the 2 components are ready you can stick the LED to the metal bar, letting the metal cable first, and then the light cable passing through the holes. - -Assemble the plate and the beam with the 3mm bolts and put a 5mm screw on the side with no light cable. This will prevent the metal cable from escaping. - -Now solder the LED cable to the power controller! diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-lamp-with-beams/step_16.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-lamp-with-beams/step_16.md deleted file mode 100644 index b0d01d8b5..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-lamp-with-beams/step_16.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,13 +0,0 @@ -### Play with the colours :) - - You're done! - -Depending on your LED strip you can now program your light, intensity, color, etc. with Arduino. - -A guide explaining how to program the board can be found here: https://fablab.ruc.dk/ioglow/ -You can find the relevant Arduino code in the download files. - -Once your board is programmed then you can change the LED settings from your phone connecting to the board’s wifi. - -Well done you made it! -Plugin your light and hang it to your ceiling! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-lamp-with-beams/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-lamp-with-beams/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 87d9a8ee5..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-lamp-with-beams/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Prepare central bar - - Cut the central metal bar to the right length. - -Mark the centerline on the top of the bar and colour the sides, to help you send the right angle. - -Make the 2-degree draft with a belt sander after setting the table with the right angle. Once you can’t see the color anymore means you sanded the entire surface. - -This draft is really important! It will help you extracting your beam from the mould and preventing from cracking your piece as in this case we are working with polystyrene, which has the minimum shrinkage (0.4/0.7%) and it becomes quite difficult to extract from the mould. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-lamp-with-beams/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-lamp-with-beams/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index a6060184f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-lamp-with-beams/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Cut the rest of the material - - Grab the 2 metal bars and cut them as long as the first piece. - -Cut the sheet to the right length and width so it fits the u-profile and the bars on top of it. - -Now cut the mounting brackets that will connect the mould to the nozzle. - -Related link: -Extrude beams 👉 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zNGuuSKE1pY \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-lamp-with-beams/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-lamp-with-beams/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index ce5299266..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-lamp-with-beams/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Drill the metal bar - - Now that we have all the materials cut it’s time to start building our first part mould! - -Mark where you will drill the holes along the central bar, place it at the center of your sheet and tap weld the edges so it won’t move. - -Clamp the pieces in the device so they are ready to drill. Placing a wooden block under the sheet will help to block the pieces while drilling. - -Drill 3,3 mm holes along the bar (one each 100mm should be enough). Now you can remove the spot weld from the bar and enlarge the 3,3mm holes to 4mm holes on the sheet only. Finally, thread the holes on the bar to M4. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-lamp-with-beams/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-lamp-with-beams/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9ce0b051b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-lamp-with-beams/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Fix the bar to the sheet - - Clean and sand the bottom of the bar so it’s ready to insert the 4mm bolts to fix the metal bar on the sheet. Once it’s fixed you don’t have to remove it anymore. You will need the bolts to stick out of the bar so you can grind them off and make the top surface really flat and polish as this will show on your beam. - -This metal bar will define the groove where you can insert the LED stripe plus it will prevent a big amount of manual work! You could also mill it by hand but it takes a long time and creates lots of microplastic! - -To prevent the plastic to flow inside the bar you could place silicon on the side. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-lamp-with-beams/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-lamp-with-beams/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index 21740bf68..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-lamp-with-beams/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Weld the metal bars to the u profile - - The order in which you make this mold is quite important as having the sheet ready will help you welding the bars and the U profile in the right place. - -Set the components on the welding table, clamp the 2 metal bars on the top of the sheet, (the bars will lock the beam in the middle) make sure to clamp everything properly. - -Firstly, tap weld the bars to the sheet (this will help you block the pieces), then you can start welding the bars along with the U profile stay, 50mm alternating each side, doesn’t need to be welded all length. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-lamp-with-beams/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-lamp-with-beams/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index 27ac9c1a7..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-lamp-with-beams/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Drilling holes - - Mark where you want the holes with a center pin along with the sidebars. - -Before removing the tap welds, we are gonna drill 8mm holes along with the sidebars and the sheet to fit 8mm bolts. -It’s important to keep everything clamped together so we are sure the holes will match after disassembling and reassemble the 2 parts molds! - -Now you can grind off the taps weld and take the 2 parts mould apart. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-lamp-with-beams/step_8.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-lamp-with-beams/step_8.md deleted file mode 100644 index 530b2c15a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-lamp-with-beams/step_8.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11 +0,0 @@ -### Welding mountain brackets - - As the next step, we are going to weld the mounting brackets to both sides of the mold. Before doing that make sure the brackets match with your plate and the center of your beam matches the center of the plate. - -You can find all the information you need to make a plate here: - -Related link: -Extruded beams 👉 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zNGuuSKE1pY - -Let’s proceed: Drill the holes on the brackets before welding. -We recommend to weld along the entire sheet's surface. The first welds were too small and the plastic flew out of the mold, so as pictures show, we had to weld another piece on top of the previous ones. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-lamp-with-beams/step_9.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-lamp-with-beams/step_9.md deleted file mode 100644 index 69c4fad37..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-lamp-with-beams/step_9.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11 +0,0 @@ -### Finishing up - - You made it! Before extruding make sure you clean both parts of the mold and put silicon oil to facilitate the extraction of the beam. -Assemble the 2 parts mould with nuts and bolts and connect your mold to the nozzle. - -For better finishing, we recommend preheating your mould with heating elements or in the oven, or both! - -Now it’s time to extrude and test your mould! - -Relevant links: -Make glass-like beams 👉 https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/make-glass-like-beams \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-light-switch/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-light-switch/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 710587110..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-light-switch/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Make a light switch - - -Moulds to make the push botton and the frame for a light switch. -Short video of the making: https://youtu.be/kEQ9AIqLBkM \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-light-switch/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-light-switch/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index c356c130c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-light-switch/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Mill or print the moulds - - The moulds were designed for the resin print, if you want to mill the molds out of aluminium, you may have to make a few changes, or get in contact and I can help you. -For the botton mould you need 4x M8x50 screws, for the frame mould you need 4x M8x40 screws. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-light-switch/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-light-switch/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 55e51e8a3..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-light-switch/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Inject - - Assmeble the mould, inject, deassemble and do the afterwork. -Use polypropylene, this plastic type is safer for electronic enclosures than HDPE. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-light-switch/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-light-switch/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 1924fb53e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-light-switch/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Mount it on the wall - - Use a Schneider Elso 111600 switch, turn off the fuse and install the electronics.' -Use 2 small screws to mount the frame and the switch to the wall. -Press the push botton on the switch, turn on the fuse and be happy with a light switch from recycled plastic waste. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-lightswitch-and-socket/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-lightswitch-and-socket/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index a0a750d9d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-lightswitch-and-socket/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Make a lightswitch and socket - - -Making decorative objects and handcrafts is one thing, but is recycled plastic capable of replacing industrially manufactured and standardized components? The lightswitch and socket proof that! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-lightswitch-and-socket/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-lightswitch-and-socket/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7843dc7f2..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-lightswitch-and-socket/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Make the moulds: CNC - - Those pieces will be injected, so you need the moulds and access to an Injection machine. - -For the mould-making, download the files above and CNC-mill it yourself or send it to a mould maker. - -In the latter case, make sure to communicate clearly if your part is designed as the resulted part or already oversized to compensate for shrinkage. The file attached above is the actual size of the end result, so you need to scale it depending on your material. For the PP we used we scaled the model up by 2,6%. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-lightswitch-and-socket/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-lightswitch-and-socket/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 6179108f0..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-lightswitch-and-socket/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Make the moulds: Sliders - - The lightswitch cover needs holes for sliders to achieve a snap connector feature which shapes an undercut. - -Drill the corresponding holes perpendicular to the unmoulding direction and use a tightly fitting pin (e.g. the back of the drill or a parallel pin) as slider. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-lightswitch-and-socket/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-lightswitch-and-socket/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index b35143924..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-lightswitch-and-socket/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Preparations - - Due to the very thin walled diaphragm injection gate, preheating the lightswitch frame’s mould makes the process of injecting easier. The amount of plastic needed for all parts is about half a barrel, but rather work with a full barrel to ensure enough pressure. - -As the mould is quite intricate and detailed, a plastic with good flow characteristics is required. - -e injected PP on 270/280°C (barrel/nozzle), but a few tests might be necessary to calibrate your machine. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-lightswitch-and-socket/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-lightswitch-and-socket/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2bb3ee328..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-lightswitch-and-socket/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Inject the parts - - Time to inject. The plastic should be evenly molten to easily spread within the mould, so it might run out of the nozzle just because of gravity. Use a plug that’s screwed into the nozzle and remove it right before you start injecting. - -Act fast and keep the pressure for a couple of seconds before lifting the lever. This will prevent sink marks as the plastic is cooling down under pressure. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-lightswitch-and-socket/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-lightswitch-and-socket/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 3f619d547..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-lightswitch-and-socket/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Unmould your parts - - Once injected, you can take out the sliders and open the mould. You don’t need to wait additionally for the plastic to cool down, the time it takes to open the mould is a sufficient cooldown time. - -Especially the lightswitch cover sits pretty tightly in the mould and levering with a spatula is needed. It helps much to lift the part evenly from each side to eject the parts. - -Take care that you don’t scratch the mould cavity with metal tools. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-lightswitch-and-socket/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-lightswitch-and-socket/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index bee2fa0a2..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-lightswitch-and-socket/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Finish - - Break the injection point along the predetermined breaking points. If necessary use a knife to shave off excess material. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-lightswitch-and-socket/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-lightswitch-and-socket/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index e7356b803..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-lightswitch-and-socket/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Mount it and love it! - - Your parts are ready! - -Keep in mind that this product is in direct contact with high voltage electricity, so don’t try to mount it yourself unless you’re qualified. - -Should one of the parts break, you can simply shred and melt it again, or bring it to another Precious Plastic workspace where they can recycle the plastic. :) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-mould-to-bend-sheets/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-mould-to-bend-sheets/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 1239f3aac..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-mould-to-bend-sheets/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Make a mould to bend sheets - - -Bending plastic sheets is a relatively easy technique, at least compared to metal and wood. Once you have a mould you can use it over and over again to get the exact same shape. This specific how-to aims to build a simple mould from plywood and sheet metal for bending sheets in one direction. Steps 1-4 guide you through the design and preparation process, while steps 5-14 explain how to build the actual mould. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-mould-to-bend-sheets/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-mould-to-bend-sheets/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 17643b760..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-mould-to-bend-sheets/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Prototyping - - It’s kind of obvious, but first things first: before making a proper mould, you should figure out what exactly you want to achieve. It’s easy to build a rough prototype from plywood or cardboard to test proportions and ergonomics. So right after sketching out your design, go and test it. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-mould-to-bend-sheets/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-mould-to-bend-sheets/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8da605bb1..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-mould-to-bend-sheets/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### 3D modelling - - Take all the measurements you derived from your prototype and feed it to CAD. For curvatures, take a quick photo, place it in CAD, scale it to the right size and rebuild the curve from there. -The mould consists of two parts, the positive and the negative half that encapsulate your desired part from both sides. The bending surface is a 1mm sheet metal screwed onto cross-sections cut from plywood. The surface offset of both halves should be set to the material thickness of your plastic sheets. -See the attached .step file for an example mould. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-mould-to-bend-sheets/step_10.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-mould-to-bend-sheets/step_10.md deleted file mode 100644 index e93aaa750..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-mould-to-bend-sheets/step_10.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Making the negative mould: trim - - In case the sheet metal exceeds the curvature’s length, you can easily grind it off. It’s crucial that the flat wedges of both halves come nicely together, otherwise the offset is not right and might deform your plastic sheet. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-mould-to-bend-sheets/step_11.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-mould-to-bend-sheets/step_11.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4c51b4ab6..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-mould-to-bend-sheets/step_11.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Cut guides - - When it comes to the bending, you’re handling a 200°C hot piece of malleable plastic, so you really want to make it as quick as possible. A guide can help you to align the piece within the mold. In this case we simply use the off-cuts from step 5. Cut them to the right length and remove the screws from the mould on both halves where you want to put the guide. The sheet metal will still stay in shape thanks to the tension. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-mould-to-bend-sheets/step_12.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-mould-to-bend-sheets/step_12.md deleted file mode 100644 index acd28217e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-mould-to-bend-sheets/step_12.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Attach guides - - Then mark the position of the screws, pre-drill and countersink the holes. Screw through the holes and the sheet metal into the cross-section using countersunk screws. Again, the screws should fully immerse in the material as the opposite half must not interfere with them. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-mould-to-bend-sheets/step_13.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-mould-to-bend-sheets/step_13.md deleted file mode 100644 index e0e672c50..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-mould-to-bend-sheets/step_13.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Ready to bend some sheets! - - Good job, you’re done! For the usage of your brand new mould, check out 👉 tiny.cc/bend-plastic-sheets. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-mould-to-bend-sheets/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-mould-to-bend-sheets/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index f9d8f04aa..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-mould-to-bend-sheets/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Making the drawings: 3D to vector - - The aim of the drawing is to transfer the precise measurements and curvatures from your CAD model to a physical mould. A good way to do that is to make 2D drawings, print them, laminate them onto plywood and cut them with a bandsaw or jigsaw. While you’re making the drawings for each part, try to anticipate how you are going to use those drawings. A smart way of avoiding a large format print is to figure out how to put together several standard sized prints. Anyways, you cannot rely on the printer to align your print perfectly on the page, so add an alignment line on every drawing. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-mould-to-bend-sheets/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-mould-to-bend-sheets/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 662b811f9..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-mould-to-bend-sheets/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Making the drawings: layout - - Besides that, every sheet should contain some sort of part number or description, not to mix them up later. When moving from one application to another or while printing, pay extra attention to always maintain the same scale! -Use dashed or colored lines for different purposes (e.g. cutting, aligning, centerline …) and hatched areas for offcuts. The lines you print should be as thin as possible and use pure CMYK tones (e.g. 0 0 0 100 for black). This will avoid imprecise lines due a potential registration misalignment in the printer. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-mould-to-bend-sheets/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-mould-to-bend-sheets/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index bd379f22d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-mould-to-bend-sheets/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Preparing the material - - Get all the dimensions from your CAD model and cut all parts at the same time to speed up the process. Drill holes parallel to the long edge of the sheet metal with half the cross-sections material thickness as an offset. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-mould-to-bend-sheets/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-mould-to-bend-sheets/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index b0b00fa07..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-mould-to-bend-sheets/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Cutting the cross-sections - - Cut the drawings as you planned before. Use a ruler and a sharp knife and work precisely. Then take the previously cut plywood parts and laminate them with the drawings. If there are several drawings for one part, starting from the center. Apply spray mount on the back of one sheet, align it according to the instructions and sweep from the middle outwards. -Drill holes for the jigsaw to dive in and cut along the lines. Keep in mind what you want to keep and what’s going to be off-cut. Smoothen the edges with sandpaper. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-mould-to-bend-sheets/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-mould-to-bend-sheets/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index ef16d54af..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-mould-to-bend-sheets/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Assembling the frames - - Screw together as you planned before. In most of the materials you should pre-drill to avoid cracking! Hence it’s a lot faster to use two cordless drills at the same time. Don’t put the wedges to the positive mould, you will need them in step 9. -As well attach some guides like aluminium L-bar to the corners in order to align the two halves more easily later. While doing so, place both halves on top of each other to make sure the whole frame is square. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-mould-to-bend-sheets/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-mould-to-bend-sheets/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index c234fc5e2..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-mould-to-bend-sheets/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Making the positive mould: screws - - Mark the centerline on the sheet metal, align it to the frame and attach it with screws. Then bend it downwards around the curvature and fix it every once in a while. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-mould-to-bend-sheets/step_8.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-mould-to-bend-sheets/step_8.md deleted file mode 100644 index a9df0ec63..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-mould-to-bend-sheets/step_8.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Making the positive mould: wedges - - As soon as you’re close to the end, you can use the previously cut pieces to wedge the sheet metal in place. Fix those wedges with care as they are under a constant tension and might flip out. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-mould-to-bend-sheets/step_9.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-mould-to-bend-sheets/step_9.md deleted file mode 100644 index 039064a09..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-mould-to-bend-sheets/step_9.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Making the negative mould: screws - - The process is pretty much the same as for the positive mould, you start as well from the middle. Here, you just have to clamp the sheet metal down first and attach it in the middle. Then again, go outwards, the only difference is that no wedges are necessary. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-mould-to-extrude-beams/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-mould-to-extrude-beams/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2f7e45e44..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-mould-to-extrude-beams/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Make a mould to extrude beams - - -Beams make great use of the extrusion machine as they can be strong and enable you to create very unique patterns and colours. This guide will show you how to make a mould which can be easily translated to any size of beams. - -(Update: We also added a lasercut version, see step 7!) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-mould-to-extrude-beams/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-mould-to-extrude-beams/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index ec0e8f5b0..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-mould-to-extrude-beams/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,14 +0,0 @@ -### Get ready - - This type of beam mould consists of a plate that is screwed onto the nozzle and a beam mould that can be easily attached and detached for fast production. So far this has been the go-to method for beam production because it's possible for one plate to be used with different beams. - -To make a beam mould you will need: -- Metal tube (Preffereably with a wall thickness of 3mm or more) -- Angle iron -- Metal sheet (3mm or more) -- Threaded pipe or fitting (BSPT size of your nozzle) -- Angle grinder / Metal saw -- Welding machine -- File -- Drill -- M8 or M10 nuts & bolts diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-mould-to-extrude-beams/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-mould-to-extrude-beams/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index cfd43aa84..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-mould-to-extrude-beams/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Cut beam - - After planning your mould and gathering your materials, it's time to cut them up. Cutting your metal tube is simple enough - make it as long as you want your beam. Take note that the longer your beam, the harder your machine will need to work to fill the entire mould. - -Pro tip: It's important to remove any burrs and file the edges here, as this will ensure a better fit in the stages to come. Cut a thin slice extra to use as a template to use in the step 4. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-mould-to-extrude-beams/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-mould-to-extrude-beams/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index d972a6d4d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-mould-to-extrude-beams/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Make mounting brackets - - For connecting the beam to the plate we need to make mounting brackets.. angle iron works well for this. All you need to do is cut angle iron into sections of 30-40mm and drill a hole in one side to fit your bolts. For larger beams use bigger, thicker angle iron. - -Pro tip: This is a relatively simple process.. so you can save some time here by making lots of brackets in different sizes at once. When you need to make more moulds in future you'll thank yourself for that little extra you put in. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-mould-to-extrude-beams/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-mould-to-extrude-beams/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7eb04c634..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-mould-to-extrude-beams/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Cut and plan plate - - We can now begin with the plate. Use the size of your beam section to plan the rough size of your mounting plate. Cut a shape from your sheet that will fit your beam mould as well as the brackets cut in step 3. - -Pro Tip: Use the thin section of your beam from step 2 as a template for marking the position of your brackets and their holes. - -Cut the sheet, drill the holes. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-mould-to-extrude-beams/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-mould-to-extrude-beams/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8c6669b3c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-mould-to-extrude-beams/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Welding the mould - - Next we're going to weld it all together. One of the easiest ways to go about this is to attach the brackets to the plate with bolts. You can then clamp the brackets to the beam and tack them together. It's important that you only weld the brackets to the beam. - -Then position where you want your plastic to enter the mould and weld the threaded nozzle to the to other side of the plate. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-mould-to-extrude-beams/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-mould-to-extrude-beams/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 38a53ea60..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-mould-to-extrude-beams/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Finishing up - - After the fitting and welding its time to finish up. The last step in the process is to make sure yout plastic flows smoothly out your machine into the mould, and most importantly, be easily removed! For this we need to remove all 'undercuts' by drilling two holes into the plate. The first hole will be the same size as the inside of the nozzle piece. - -This should yeild one straight hole all the way through.. but if thats not enough, or you still find there are some undercuts, you can use a larger bit to open the plate more on the beam side. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-mould-to-extrude-beams/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-mould-to-extrude-beams/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index 3977d6076..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-mould-to-extrude-beams/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Lasercut version! - - If you have access to a lasercut service, there is also the possibility of doing this beam mould much faster! - -We added a .zip file with drawings you can use or send to a lasercut company to cut your parts. -These plates are going to replace the use of brackets for making the beam mould. - -After you receive the plates you'll need to place them on the beam by gently tapping them with a rubber hummer, making sure it's perpendicular and flush with the beam. To check this you can put the nozzle plate in front of it to make sure it's not in an angle. - -After this you can proceed to weld everything in place. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-mould-to-extrude-beams/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-mould-to-extrude-beams/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index 76f94335e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-mould-to-extrude-beams/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,15 +0,0 @@ -### Explore the possibilities! - - Now you can extrude! -There is a lot to explore, you can get some inspiration in other How-to's! - -For example: - -Make glass like beams -👉 https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/make-glass-like-beams - -Extrude different textures -👉 https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/extrude-different-textures - -Make T-shaped beams -👉 https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/make-a-t-shape-beam- \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-no-touch-tool-with-3d-printed-mould/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-no-touch-tool-with-3d-printed-mould/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index c55cd485a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-no-touch-tool-with-3d-printed-mould/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Make a No Touch Tool with 3D printed mould - - -Create a tool for interacting with high contact areas such as door handles, pin pads, and light switches so your hands don't have to... helping prevent Covid-19 contamination spread! -Made from 3D printed nylon for a quick turnaround of moulds to address the problem as soon as possible. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-no-touch-tool-with-3d-printed-mould/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-no-touch-tool-with-3d-printed-mould/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8617c262f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-no-touch-tool-with-3d-printed-mould/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Make or buy the mould - - Nylon was used for the mould as it's melting temperature is much higher than that of LDPE which we use to make the No Touch Tools. We are conscious of consuming virgin plastic but using 3D printed moulds means we're only using the exact amount of plastic required (opposed to CNC Machining sheets of polycarbonate for example). Although metal moulds are ideal for longevity and quality, they do come with a higher carbon footprint and cost. The nylon moulds have so far had over 100 injections with little wear and are holding up very well for a fraction of the cost of a metal mould. - -We printed the moulds using an Ultimaker 3 3D printer. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-no-touch-tool-with-3d-printed-mould/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-no-touch-tool-with-3d-printed-mould/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index b4211512d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-no-touch-tool-with-3d-printed-mould/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Make a clamp for the mould - - We used plates of metal either side of the mould to apply an even pressure but also wick away some of the heat. You could design bolt slots in the mould halves to clamp them directly. -Initially our moulds had through-bolts which was of course silly and we quickly moved to a significant 10mm steel plate either side of the mould clamped together with M10 bolts. This setup becomes really slick as you can slide the moulds out of the clamp easily, separate the part and slot it back together when complete. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-no-touch-tool-with-3d-printed-mould/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-no-touch-tool-with-3d-printed-mould/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index e9d9a7e21..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-no-touch-tool-with-3d-printed-mould/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Inject into the mould - - We use LDPE sourced from wheel nut indicators (Checkpoints) which is vibrantly coloured and very nice quality to work with. It injects nicely between 160-170*C. -For each tool we put 40g of plastic into the injection moulder - accounting for some leakage at the beginning to ensure the plastic is flowing nicely and over-spill at the end to ensure the mould is 100% filled. -We inject the plastic relatively slowly by hand and hold the pressure once the mould is filled (indicated by when it overflows at the top). Using nylon moulds means that the injected plastic is insulated so it doesn't cool quickly so wants to escape if you don't hold the pressure after injecting. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-no-touch-tool-with-3d-printed-mould/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-no-touch-tool-with-3d-printed-mould/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 90b910a0a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-no-touch-tool-with-3d-printed-mould/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Leave to cool and separate - - After injecting, leave the moulds clamped to cool for 3 minutes before releasing the No Touch Tool from the mould. If you take out the part too early, it may be soft and you risk deforming it. -Equally, don't leave it in longer than 6 minutes as the shrinkage may cause it to hug the sides which makes it much harder to release! - -Unclamp the mould, peel the part from the mould and leave the moulds to cool (being a plastic mould, it keeps warm for longer which can cause issues over multiple injections). A fan can help this process. - -Using multiple moulds and clamps here enables you to get quick cycle times - you can be injecting the next tools whilst the previous ones cool for example. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-no-touch-tool-with-3d-printed-mould/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-no-touch-tool-with-3d-printed-mould/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index dfcbcc8d8..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-no-touch-tool-with-3d-printed-mould/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Finishing - - Cut away the sprue using a sharp knife. -Cut away any flashing that may have occurred. -Drill a hole for a keyring in the bottom. -Attach a retractable lanyard which helps keep the tool keep out of pockets and reduce contamination risk but remains close to hand. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-no-touch-tool-with-3d-printed-mould/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-no-touch-tool-with-3d-printed-mould/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index d7ead28e9..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-no-touch-tool-with-3d-printed-mould/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Finished! - - Keep your hands away from high-contact surfaces and use the tool instead! - -Stay safe out there. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-no-touch-tool-with-3d-printed-mould/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-no-touch-tool-with-3d-printed-mould/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index 124cf6ec6..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-no-touch-tool-with-3d-printed-mould/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11 +0,0 @@ -### Bonus: Speed up the process - - To meet demand or lower the price point of the tools, there are a number of ways you can speed up the process: - -1. Heat the plastic before putting into the injector like Qi-Tech -https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/rapid-fire-method-for-injection--300-face-shields-a-day -You can also use an oven to pre-heat the shreds rather than an extruder. -2. Use multiple moulds. -This enables you to have some products cooling whilst you inject others. -3. Fill the injection tube for multiple shots. -If you can load your injector with multiple 40g shots of plastic, this will enable you to inject multiple shots at a time. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-padded-stool-using-cleanup-trash/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-padded-stool-using-cleanup-trash/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 25176eefd..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-padded-stool-using-cleanup-trash/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Make a padded stool using cleanup trash - - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-padded-stool-using-cleanup-trash/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-padded-stool-using-cleanup-trash/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 765c4796c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-padded-stool-using-cleanup-trash/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### - - \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-padded-stool-using-cleanup-trash/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-padded-stool-using-cleanup-trash/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 765c4796c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-padded-stool-using-cleanup-trash/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### - - \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-padded-stool-using-cleanup-trash/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-padded-stool-using-cleanup-trash/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 765c4796c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-padded-stool-using-cleanup-trash/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### - - \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-pee-pee-urinal/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-pee-pee-urinal/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 30f218678..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-pee-pee-urinal/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,15 +0,0 @@ -### Make a Pee Pee Urinal - - -I am a flat pack design utility add on to the streets. The urinal is a quick solution to the need of urinal at parks and streets spots that has become a urinating spot, - -In the attached folder you will find: - -3D File (.skp) - -Laser cut files (.dxf) - -Blueprints (.pdf) - -Manual - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-pee-pee-urinal/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-pee-pee-urinal/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 24403f107..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-pee-pee-urinal/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### DownTake sheet of 12mm thickness - - Take sheet of 12mm thickness -The sheet has to be of 12mm for the exact grooving composition, 2 sheets of size 4ftx 4ft. If your sheet thickness varies then 12mm please adjust the grooves in cad file \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-pee-pee-urinal/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-pee-pee-urinal/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 818f4c3af..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-pee-pee-urinal/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Get cad file in CNC machine - - The cad file is supposed to be converted in cnc machine file format and let the machine do its job, The file can be accessed in auto CAD or CDR. The metric systemm of file is Feet and Inches. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-pee-pee-urinal/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-pee-pee-urinal/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 71b3fd882..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-pee-pee-urinal/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Buff the edges - - Next step is to clean the edges and buff it for further smoothness, The grooves are to be maintained the same sizes mentioned in the manual through out \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-pee-pee-urinal/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-pee-pee-urinal/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4a6ad2e2a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-pee-pee-urinal/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Assemble the product - - Assemble the product as mentioned in the following document. It may take 2-3 people to assemble the product because the sheets are delicate and often intent to break at corners if not handled properly. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-quick-release-for-the-extrusion-machine/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-quick-release-for-the-extrusion-machine/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 43d850323..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-quick-release-for-the-extrusion-machine/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Make a quick release for the extrusion machine - - -The extrusion machine has the capacity to extrude a lot of plastic very quickly, but what if you wanted to make smaller or bigger items that can’t be screwed on to the barrel. This is why we developed the low tech sliding quick release for all your extrusion needs. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-quick-release-for-the-extrusion-machine/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-quick-release-for-the-extrusion-machine/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 5cfbbe704..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-quick-release-for-the-extrusion-machine/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Prepare your pieces - - First off, in this how-to precision is key. We recommend you to take extra care and time making this nozzle adapter. Once ready, this adapter should fit with all of your future products. Prepare the materials you need. Bear in mind that these items are a rough guide and you can use similar items that you may have available to the same effect. - -In this How-to we will use: -A: 2x 5mm plates (65mm x 70mm) -B: 2x 20mmx 3mm angle bar (70mm) -C: 2x 5mm strips (70mm x 25mm) -D: 20mm Galvanised Union -E: Scrap pieces of metal (approx 20mm x 20mm) diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-quick-release-for-the-extrusion-machine/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-quick-release-for-the-extrusion-machine/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 920d37520..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-quick-release-for-the-extrusion-machine/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Rounding the corners - - Angle bars tend to come with rounded internal corners but we need a snug fit for 1 of our metal plates (part A). To do this we use a grinder to round the edges of the sides (longer edges) so that the plate and the angle bar sit together smoothly. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-quick-release-for-the-extrusion-machine/step_10.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-quick-release-for-the-extrusion-machine/step_10.md deleted file mode 100644 index c8fa80c98..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-quick-release-for-the-extrusion-machine/step_10.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Smoothing the sliding mechanism - - Almost ready! Now the only thing remaining is to ensure that the mechanism slots together with ease. You will no longer be able to adjust the nozzle portion, however, the sliding part can be sanded, ground, and polished to ensure a smooth surface is achieved. - -The result should be a mechanism that slides into and out of the nozzle with ease but should not be loose. Both plates need to pressed firmly together for the system to work. Test out where the plate gets a bit stuck and then adjust the sides by grinding, sanding and polishing them. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-quick-release-for-the-extrusion-machine/step_11.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-quick-release-for-the-extrusion-machine/step_11.md deleted file mode 100644 index e95ff8627..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-quick-release-for-the-extrusion-machine/step_11.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Welding it to your mould - - Once a smooth motion is achieved, you can weld this piece to your mould permanently. Take care to not block the movement with fresh welds. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-quick-release-for-the-extrusion-machine/step_12.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-quick-release-for-the-extrusion-machine/step_12.md deleted file mode 100644 index 6f4419500..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-quick-release-for-the-extrusion-machine/step_12.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11 +0,0 @@ -### DONE! - - Great you are ready to extrude! - -To use the quick release you have to screw the female section onto your extruder, ensuring you are able to slide in from the top. - -When in place you are ready to extrude. - - -You can find a full guide which includes the usage of the quick release in the How to “Extrude into a closed mouldâ€. -👉 https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/make-a-quick-release-opening-system-for-injection-moulds \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-quick-release-for-the-extrusion-machine/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-quick-release-for-the-extrusion-machine/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index e2fa2fcf1..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-quick-release-for-the-extrusion-machine/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Welding the angle bars - - Once both sides are grounded take the second plate (part A) and 2 angle bars (parts B) and clamp them together as seen in the picture. A snug fit is required and the angle bars must be pressed firmly and evenly against the plates. - -Tack weld the angle bars to the recently added flat plate (the one without the rounded edges). Take this opportunity to make sure that the rounded corner plate can still be removed. It will be tight, that is ok - too loose would be a problem. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-quick-release-for-the-extrusion-machine/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-quick-release-for-the-extrusion-machine/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 92c89648a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-quick-release-for-the-extrusion-machine/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Strip weld - - With both plates in place, and you are confident everything is still tight and fully aligned fully weld the previous tacks welds. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-quick-release-for-the-extrusion-machine/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-quick-release-for-the-extrusion-machine/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index fa5bac19a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-quick-release-for-the-extrusion-machine/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Adding stoppers - - Now take the two small pieces of metal strips (part E) and place them onto one of the ends of your quick release (either side works as long as they are both on the same sides). These pieces will act as a limiter ensuring the future extrusion hole lines up every time. Once aligned weld the stoppers to the angle bar and non-moveable plate. - -You may need to clean up the edges with an angle grinder after but this is optional. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-quick-release-for-the-extrusion-machine/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-quick-release-for-the-extrusion-machine/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 0b9b42ef2..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-quick-release-for-the-extrusion-machine/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Welding strips - - If you are able to source 10mm steel, then you can skip this step. If not you will need to weld together the two 25mm x 5mm strips (part C). Ensuring they are tightly pressed together. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-quick-release-for-the-extrusion-machine/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-quick-release-for-the-extrusion-machine/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7885c12da..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-quick-release-for-the-extrusion-machine/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Connecting the strip to the metal body - - Place the strip metal piece on to the plate not welded to the angle bar. No part of the strip should touch the angle bar. Then weld on the top and bottom ensuring that you weld the strip to only one plate, so you can still slide the mains parts independently. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-quick-release-for-the-extrusion-machine/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-quick-release-for-the-extrusion-machine/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index 6726daf29..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-quick-release-for-the-extrusion-machine/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Drilling extrusion hole - - With all the parts tightly together now, drill a hole in the centre of the welded metal strip. ø10mm is recommended but depends on your planned product input diameter. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-quick-release-for-the-extrusion-machine/step_8.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-quick-release-for-the-extrusion-machine/step_8.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9f3552b19..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-quick-release-for-the-extrusion-machine/step_8.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Welding the nozzle - - Now on the main plate is welded to the angle bar, add your nozzle adapter (part D) to attach the quick release to our extrusion. We used a ½ inch galvanised union, but find the one which fits your extrusion machine. (Note that brass will not work here since you cannot weld brass to steel.) - -The union is cut in half and then placed on the centre of the hole. The nozzle is then welded ensuring that no welds touch/damage the threads. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-quick-release-for-the-extrusion-machine/step_9.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-quick-release-for-the-extrusion-machine/step_9.md deleted file mode 100644 index bb21dc962..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-quick-release-for-the-extrusion-machine/step_9.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Expanding the nozzle hole - - Now that the nozzle is welded, we need to ensure the nozzle channel is smooth and uniform To do this we remove the sliding portion of the quick release leaving only the nozzle portion of the quick release. We then choose a drill bit that will take a fraction of a millimetre off the inside of the nozzle and make our original hole larger using a drill press. - -This will ensure a clean passage for our plastic when we extrude and allow us to clean any blockages. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-quick-release-opening-system-for-injection-moulds/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-quick-release-opening-system-for-injection-moulds/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 633e060de..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-quick-release-opening-system-for-injection-moulds/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Make a quick release opening system for injection moulds - - -Injecting is a slower process compare to the other machines, generally it takes from 10 to 15 min to inject a product. That's why we've been looking for different alternatives to make this process as fast as possible, even for very simple steps like opening and closing. When you inject 3-5 times is not that bad to screw in and out 4-6 bolts, but when you need to do the same step 50 times, to save a couple of seconds each time, it's a lot! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-quick-release-opening-system-for-injection-moulds/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-quick-release-opening-system-for-injection-moulds/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8cbf4bc3e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-quick-release-opening-system-for-injection-moulds/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Get ready - - Before you start, gather the materials and tools you need to make the quick release system: - -Materials: 4 bike skewers (standard thread thickness: 5mm). -You can use more depending on the type of mould you have, i would recommend you to use at least 4. - -Tools: ruler, M5 die, safety glasses, marker. -And for cutting and sanding, you can either use. a hand saw, file adna sanding paper or a grinder with cutting and sanding disc diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-quick-release-opening-system-for-injection-moulds/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-quick-release-opening-system-for-injection-moulds/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index b4a78601d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-quick-release-opening-system-for-injection-moulds/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Prepare your clamps - - The principle of this system is that you press the mould parts together with self-made clamps. - -Let’s start with adapting the quick release wheel bike clamps. - -Measure the length of the threaded part, then put the clamp through your mould and apply the measured length with a marker. This is how much you need to cut off to fit the mould thickness, so you can tighten it up properly. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-quick-release-opening-system-for-injection-moulds/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-quick-release-opening-system-for-injection-moulds/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index d9f861c71..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-quick-release-opening-system-for-injection-moulds/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Cut the clamps - - Cut your clamp to your needed length (with a hand saw or angle grinder) and then soften the sharp edges. - -This is very important so to screw in the nut easily without damaging its thread. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-quick-release-opening-system-for-injection-moulds/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-quick-release-opening-system-for-injection-moulds/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8a3702ac0..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-quick-release-opening-system-for-injection-moulds/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Remake the thread - - Take your M5 die to re-make the thread. It should be the same length as it was previously (measured in Step 3). You can even make it slightly longer (max. 5 mm), to ensure that the mould will close very tightly. - -Cool, so now you have your clamps ready. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-quick-release-opening-system-for-injection-moulds/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-quick-release-opening-system-for-injection-moulds/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4294e3bca..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-quick-release-opening-system-for-injection-moulds/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Slots in the mould - - To make it easier to attach and detach the clamps from the mould, you can make slots in your mould. - -You can include them in the cnc/laser cut file of your mould or you can also cut them yourself with an angle grinder. - -The slots should be around 6 mm wide to make it easy to slide the clamp in and out. (If for some reason it becomes wider, use bigger washers in between to fix the clamps). diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-quick-release-opening-system-for-injection-moulds/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-quick-release-opening-system-for-injection-moulds/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index ac0ae8709..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-quick-release-opening-system-for-injection-moulds/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Close and open the mould - - That’s it, now you have all the parts you need. - -To close the mould, slide the clamps into the slots, and screw them in until you can tighten them enough to easily tighten and loosen with the clamps. - -Ready to inject! diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-quick-release-opening-system-for-injection-moulds/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-quick-release-opening-system-for-injection-moulds/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index 432fbc995..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-quick-release-opening-system-for-injection-moulds/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Quick release system for the injection machine - - To make the process even faster, you can also add a quick release system for the machine! - -Learn how to make the quick release system: -👉 https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/make-a-quick-release-for-the-extrusion-machine - -Happy injecting! :) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-raincoat-with-plastic-bags/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-raincoat-with-plastic-bags/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 3ad612617..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-raincoat-with-plastic-bags/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Make a raincoat with plastic bags - - -From plastic foils to a rain jacket. In this tutorial I will explain how to collect plastic foils, melt them together, sew and put it all together to create your own jacket for rainy days. - -Step 1-9: Preparing the materials -Step 10-16: Sewing your jacket \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-raincoat-with-plastic-bags/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-raincoat-with-plastic-bags/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9d72d22a1..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-raincoat-with-plastic-bags/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,17 +0,0 @@ -### Gather your materials - - In order to make a jacket from plastic foils, you will first need to gather your tools and materials. These are: - -Materials
 -- plastic foils (see step 3), enough to make four large sheets (70cm x 170cm)
 -- natural fabric such as cotton for the lining
 -
- a heat resistant sheet material such as teflon fabric as a base for ironing/pressing
 -- baking paper which will also be used for ironing/pressing -- optionally: fastening of some sort for the raincoat (buttons, zip etc) - -Tools -
- iron or thermo press
 -- sewing machine, thread and scissors - -Safety recommendations -- respirator mask to prevent the inhalation of plastic fumes! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-raincoat-with-plastic-bags/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-raincoat-with-plastic-bags/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 1ace2a837..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-raincoat-with-plastic-bags/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Choose your measurements - - You will need to work out the required measurements for the jacket. The template below will provide you with a plan for taking and recording these measurements. 
 -(A) length of the arm -(B) length from shoulder to shoulder -(C) length from shoulder to the neck centre -(D) body width -(E) desired length of the raincoat \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-raincoat-with-plastic-bags/step_10.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-raincoat-with-plastic-bags/step_10.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8dccc57b3..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-raincoat-with-plastic-bags/step_10.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Construct the shoulders - - The construction of the jacket should start with the shoulders. Sew together your back and two front pieces (see step 8), as shown in the image below. Make sure to leave enough space for the attachment of the hood! This is where we will use the 2cm that we added for sewing. The join of the fabric should match the template exactly and the excess material from the join should only be visible from the interior of the jacket. We will trim this later. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-raincoat-with-plastic-bags/step_11.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-raincoat-with-plastic-bags/step_11.md deleted file mode 100644 index e489c260f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-raincoat-with-plastic-bags/step_11.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Finish the edges of your sleeves - - Now we will process one edge (the edge that will form the wrist opening) of each sleeve. Fold the material, and using the 2cm that we added for sewing, create a finished edge for the sleeve. If you are unsure, the illustration below should clarify how this will work. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-raincoat-with-plastic-bags/step_12.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-raincoat-with-plastic-bags/step_12.md deleted file mode 100644 index 1dc28fb06..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-raincoat-with-plastic-bags/step_12.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Connect sleeves and shoulders - - The open sleeve pieces should now be connected to our shoulder construction, the joint. can be seen in the illustration below. As with steps 11 and 12, use the 2cm allowance to create the join exactly to the template measurements. Any excess will only be seen from the interior. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-raincoat-with-plastic-bags/step_13.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-raincoat-with-plastic-bags/step_13.md deleted file mode 100644 index 1420d7a0e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-raincoat-with-plastic-bags/step_13.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Sew the side seams - - Fold your current construction so that the cotton side is exposed, and sew along the side seams of the raincoat; remembering to use the 2cm that you added as a sewing excess. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-raincoat-with-plastic-bags/step_14.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-raincoat-with-plastic-bags/step_14.md deleted file mode 100644 index 777283742..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-raincoat-with-plastic-bags/step_14.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Create and attach the hood - - The hood consists of three parts, two sides and one central connecting piece. They are sewn together as shown in the illustration below. Remember as always, to sew from the inside of the garment and to use the 2cm of allowance that you have in your join. Once constructed, the hood can be attached to the body of the raincoat. The construction and attachment of the hood can be tricky, so if you have any issues with exposed stitching we will fix this in the next step. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-raincoat-with-plastic-bags/step_15.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-raincoat-with-plastic-bags/step_15.md deleted file mode 100644 index ddfe2c812..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-raincoat-with-plastic-bags/step_15.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Finish the raincoat - - Finishing the raincoat could be different depending on how/if you choose to fasten the front. In any case, finishing should begin with sewing clean any unfinished seams (the bottom edge for example). - -The process should then finish with any fastenings that you choose to incorporate; this could be buttons, poppers, a zip, or any alternatives that you can think of. -Now it’s ready to wear! diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-raincoat-with-plastic-bags/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-raincoat-with-plastic-bags/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 10405ec8e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-raincoat-with-plastic-bags/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Collect and select your foils - - This part will be a combination of your own design choice, as well as what plastic material is available around you. Collect your waste foils, which can include plastic bags and any small plastic foils, wrappers, and packaging. Try to make sure that you are using the same type of material (LDPE, HDPE, PP etc.). - -Now, use some artistic flair! From what you have, select a colour palette that you will work with. Your raincoat will have a much nicer finish if you ensure that any colours/patterns work well together. If you’re happy to use any combination of colours, then the coat will still be functional. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-raincoat-with-plastic-bags/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-raincoat-with-plastic-bags/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 0e5fa01db..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-raincoat-with-plastic-bags/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Make your base - - Find the biggest plastic sheet you have, and make a base out of it. Foils from construction waste are often large and good for this purpose. If you don’t have something such as this to hand, then you can cut down the sides of a bag and spread it out flat on your working surface. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-raincoat-with-plastic-bags/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-raincoat-with-plastic-bags/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index ed7b285f7..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-raincoat-with-plastic-bags/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Create a collage with your material - - Using your plastic bags and films, create a collage on top of your base sheet. This can be created however you like; from a methodical design of strips and shapes, to a more random spread of the films. This will create the design for the material that will form your finished raincoat. Reserve a little of the plastic to form a test piece (see step 6). \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-raincoat-with-plastic-bags/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-raincoat-with-plastic-bags/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 62392f03b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-raincoat-with-plastic-bags/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Try out your fusing technique - - â—ï¸Put on your respirator mask on! - -Layer a few pieces of your reserved plastic one above the other, as a test sample. Turn on your iron and set to the highest temperature. (If you are using a thermo press you may need apply different temperature settings). Lay your sample piece on top of the teflon fabric, and put a piece of baking paper on top to avoid the plastic from sticking to your iron or press. Now iron the sample piece to see how the material fuses together. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-raincoat-with-plastic-bags/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-raincoat-with-plastic-bags/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4cbbaf54d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-raincoat-with-plastic-bags/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Make your fused sheet - - Once you are comfortable with your tests, go ahead and fuse together your big sheets, remembering to use teflon fabric below, and your baking parchment paper as an ironing surface above. You will need to make at least four big sheets, around 70cm x 170cm. - -💡 Fix holes: Once complete, look over your fused plastic sheets and find any holes or parts which are not fully melted or secure. You can fix these now with your iron/press and any scraps of plastic that you have left, but be very careful not to deconstruct the material when heating the sheets again. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-raincoat-with-plastic-bags/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-raincoat-with-plastic-bags/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9c3ee7c04..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-raincoat-with-plastic-bags/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Finalise your measurements - - Come back to the template that we used in step 2. Apply your measurements to the following template, and decide on a size for measurement (F), the diameters of the hood. You can decide on this by drawing and cutting the hood construction pieces first with paper, and finding a desired size. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-raincoat-with-plastic-bags/step_8.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-raincoat-with-plastic-bags/step_8.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8a1fe86b6..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-raincoat-with-plastic-bags/step_8.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Cut the materials - - From your fused sheets you will now need to cut the template pieces (see step 8) for the construction of your raincoat. 1 back piece, 2 front pieces, 2x sleeves, and 3 parts for the hood. Add 2cm on the sides of each piece to allow room for sewing. If you are lacking material to cut the template, you may need to extend one or more of your sheets. - -After doing this, cut the same template again from your cotton (again allowing 2cm on every side). This will form the lining of the raincoat. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-raincoat-with-plastic-bags/step_9.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-raincoat-with-plastic-bags/step_9.md deleted file mode 100644 index 1652e9c7a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-raincoat-with-plastic-bags/step_9.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Sew the outer and lining together - - Using your cut plastic sheets, and the matching cotton pieces, sew the two templates together so that the outer and lining are attached to one another. This will help the process of further working with the material, and make it easier to create your raincoat. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-recycled-phone-cover-using-cnc-milling/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-recycled-phone-cover-using-cnc-milling/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 449515f62..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-recycled-phone-cover-using-cnc-milling/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Make a recycled phone cover using CNC milling - - -Jerry will show you an advanced technique to create a CNC mould to produce phone cases from recycled plastic. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-recycled-phone-cover-using-cnc-milling/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-recycled-phone-cover-using-cnc-milling/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 925f629a1..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-recycled-phone-cover-using-cnc-milling/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Gather everything you need - - Before you start get all your gear ready: - -- Respirator mask -- Big block of aluminium -- 3D Design software -- CNC machine -- Injection machine -- Plastic Type Stamp \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-recycled-phone-cover-using-cnc-milling/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-recycled-phone-cover-using-cnc-milling/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9bed749a2..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-recycled-phone-cover-using-cnc-milling/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Watch this video tutorial - - Watch this video tutorial to learn step-by-step how to make the 3D mould, CNC it and inject a recycled phone case using the Precious Plastic Injection machines. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-recycled-phone-cover-using-cnc-milling/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-recycled-phone-cover-using-cnc-milling/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index f8e466496..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-recycled-phone-cover-using-cnc-milling/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Done & Share - - After watching this video you should understand the basics of making a mould using CNC milling. You can reproduce the phone case or try to make other products. We’re looking forward to seeing what you can come up with. Make sure to share back your new creations so the community can learn from you. Tag #preciousplastic on social media, create a new how-to or send us an email. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-recycling-bin-64007/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-recycling-bin-64007/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 79c9e0366..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-recycling-bin-64007/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Make a recycling bin - - -Making a plastic recycling bin with recycled plastic panels. This is an easier method with standard aluminum tubes. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-recycling-bin-64007/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-recycling-bin-64007/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4a0b47e92..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-recycling-bin-64007/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,12 +0,0 @@ -### Prepare materials - - Prepare material according to the size and design of the recycling bin. - -In our case: - -- 30x30 alumimum tube 935mm x8 -- 30x30 alumimum tube 316mm x8 -- 30x30 alumimum tube 300mm x12 -- Corner fixing clips x50 -- Corner fixing plate x50 -- legs x8 \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-recycling-bin-64007/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-recycling-bin-64007/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index ca85029ad..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-recycling-bin-64007/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Assemble the frame - - Assemble the frame, with the corner fixing clips and avoiding the corners for mounting the panels afterward. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-recycling-bin-64007/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-recycling-bin-64007/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 0ac2235cd..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-recycling-bin-64007/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Mount the panels - - After the frame is done, fix the panel onto the frame with screws and corner fixing plate. - -We use 12mm thick PP sheets and use CNC milling to cut into the right shapes. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-recycling-bin-64007/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-recycling-bin-64007/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 340d82b9b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-recycling-bin-64007/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Legs and doors - - Add legs to the bottom of the bin for uneven floor. - -Lastly, assemble the doors with door hinges, and add locks or magnets to keep them close. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-recycling-bin/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-recycling-bin/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 79c9e0366..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-recycling-bin/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Make a recycling bin - - -Making a plastic recycling bin with recycled plastic panels. This is an easier method with standard aluminum tubes. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-recycling-bin/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-recycling-bin/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4a0b47e92..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-recycling-bin/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,12 +0,0 @@ -### Prepare materials - - Prepare material according to the size and design of the recycling bin. - -In our case: - -- 30x30 alumimum tube 935mm x8 -- 30x30 alumimum tube 316mm x8 -- 30x30 alumimum tube 300mm x12 -- Corner fixing clips x50 -- Corner fixing plate x50 -- legs x8 \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-recycling-bin/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-recycling-bin/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index ca85029ad..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-recycling-bin/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Assemble the frame - - Assemble the frame, with the corner fixing clips and avoiding the corners for mounting the panels afterward. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-recycling-bin/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-recycling-bin/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 0ac2235cd..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-recycling-bin/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Mount the panels - - After the frame is done, fix the panel onto the frame with screws and corner fixing plate. - -We use 12mm thick PP sheets and use CNC milling to cut into the right shapes. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-recycling-bin/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-recycling-bin/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 05cb7c328..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-recycling-bin/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Legs and doors - - \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-ruler-mould-with-inkscape/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-ruler-mould-with-inkscape/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index eaf0a2e9e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-ruler-mould-with-inkscape/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Make a ruler mould with Inkscape - - -Educational resources are not equally distributed across the world so you might as well recycle plastic and make products that are useful tools for learning and creating at the same time. In this how-to you will learn how to use Inkscape to make a laser cut ruler mould for injection moulding! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-ruler-mould-with-inkscape/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-ruler-mould-with-inkscape/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4dff72377..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-ruler-mould-with-inkscape/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Download Inkscape - - -Go to https://inkscape.org/ and select the distribution you need for your operating system --Follow the instructions for the installation guide - --For reference intermediary files and the final file which was made by doing the steps in this tutorial is attached to the how-to so you can test to see if you can reproduce the final product on your own or adapt it to your needs \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-ruler-mould-with-inkscape/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-ruler-mould-with-inkscape/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index cfdd5224f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-ruler-mould-with-inkscape/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Create a blank document - - -Open Inkscape and it should open a new document for you --You can adjust the document size by clicking File > Document Properties --We chose A4 for this project but you can adjust this to your needs --Save it down in a place you can find later \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-ruler-mould-with-inkscape/step_10.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-ruler-mould-with-inkscape/step_10.md deleted file mode 100644 index c5fabc5c2..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-ruler-mould-with-inkscape/step_10.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Make top mould - - -Select all of the center mould using the selection tools and duplicate it again --Now move it down like in the previous step so that the edges are touching --Now you can delete the center rectangle and replace it with a circle for the nozzle of the injection machine that you have \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-ruler-mould-with-inkscape/step_11.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-ruler-mould-with-inkscape/step_11.md deleted file mode 100644 index 005bf3df5..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-ruler-mould-with-inkscape/step_11.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Export, laser cut & inject - - -You can now save it down as an .svg by clicking File > Save as --Save it somewhere you will find it later --You can now import it into the CAM (computer Aided Manufacturing) software for your laser to etch the rulers, inner rectangle & id code of the bottom plate and cut out all the other lines --Now you will need to tap the threads and you can now injection mould it using the injection machine --See the video by Kunststoffschmiede on the Dave Hakkens Community Channel for details on how to do this with Plexiglas \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-ruler-mould-with-inkscape/step_12.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-ruler-mould-with-inkscape/step_12.md deleted file mode 100644 index b4eac2ff9..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-ruler-mould-with-inkscape/step_12.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,16 +0,0 @@ -### Spread the Love - - -Open source is not Open source if you don't share the source & files --You can put it on GitHub or other places like GitLab as well --Feel free to share your work with us on our social media - -At Darigov Research we specialise in open source hardware, software and education to help people tackle global issues in their local community. - -If you wish to support us in the work that we do consider donating or joining us on Patreon - -Donate - https://www.darigovresearch.com/donate -Patreon - https://www.patreon.com/darigovresearch - -Website - https://www.darigovresearch.com/ -Youtube Channel – https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCb34hWA6u2Lif92aljhV4HA -Twitter, GitHub, Instagram - @​​​​darigovresearch \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-ruler-mould-with-inkscape/step_13.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-ruler-mould-with-inkscape/step_13.md deleted file mode 100644 index c182002db..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-ruler-mould-with-inkscape/step_13.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Get started - - We've been building Precious Plastic machines since V2 of the machines so we're very passionate about the great work that has been done so far and where this community will grow to! - -If you're interested in purchasing a machine or interested in inquiring about our services for any research and development purposes do take a look at the products we are selling on the Bazar or message us directly! - -https://bazar.preciousplastic.com/darigov-research-limited/ diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-ruler-mould-with-inkscape/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-ruler-mould-with-inkscape/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4a49e190f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-ruler-mould-with-inkscape/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Generate the ruler - - Vector Ruler Generator is a free and open source tool to generate rulers for etching/laser cutting into various materials - --Go to https://robbbb.github.io/VectorRuler/ --On our ruler we wanted both centimetres and inches and to be roughly 15 cm long --Select the parameters you want and save them down somewhere you can find them with understandable file names so you know which one's which diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-ruler-mould-with-inkscape/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-ruler-mould-with-inkscape/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8f9c7c532..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-ruler-mould-with-inkscape/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Import the files - - -Click File > Import and select the file --You will see a dialogue screen with some details --Then click OK and you should see the files now --Then repeat for the other ruler \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-ruler-mould-with-inkscape/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-ruler-mould-with-inkscape/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 0e4c66c98..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-ruler-mould-with-inkscape/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Resize the rulers - - Because it may not import correctly into the software we will need to resize it to be accurate and adjust it for laser cutting. We will be doing this using guides in Inkscape - --To create a guide click on the ruler on the left hand side and drag to the right --You should now see a blue guide, double click on it and set it to 150 mm and click enter --Then resize the ruler so that the left hand side touches the line of the document and the right hand touches the guide --Then repeat for the inch ruler with the guide set to 6 inches \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-ruler-mould-with-inkscape/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-ruler-mould-with-inkscape/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index c58d631be..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-ruler-mould-with-inkscape/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Adjust for laser cutting - - If you are laser cutting a mould you need to ensure that the text is flipped so it reads correctly when you inject the part - --Select the part you wish to flip --Then click on the "Flip selected objects horizontally" button on the top of the page --You can also use the "Rotate selection 90°" buttons to adjust as necessary \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-ruler-mould-with-inkscape/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-ruler-mould-with-inkscape/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index 94bcf20b3..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-ruler-mould-with-inkscape/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Add plastic identifier - - Noting what plastic the rulers you are making will be made from is important because then the person in the future who is recycling it will know what temperatures to use. These can be found in the download kit for Precious Plastic or you can download them from the files attached to this How-to. - --Import the symbol you need in the same way you done with the ruler files --It will then give you some import settings --We selected "rough" precision to keep the file size down and because we know that the detail will be sufficient for laser cutting --Now align it and place it where you want it to be - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-ruler-mould-with-inkscape/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-ruler-mould-with-inkscape/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index bbda00a39..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-ruler-mould-with-inkscape/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Add cut outs for the ruler - - -To add a rectangle for the outline of the ruler click the Rectangle icon in the left menu --You can now draw it around the rulers and select the specific height and width from the top menu --You may need to adjust the alignment of the rectangles so that the rulers are visible --Select the item and click the "Lower selection to bottom" icon from the top of the screen --Repeat for the outer border of the mould \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-ruler-mould-with-inkscape/step_8.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-ruler-mould-with-inkscape/step_8.md deleted file mode 100644 index a0e536fdc..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-ruler-mould-with-inkscape/step_8.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Add fastening items - - You'll now need to add holes for wing nuts and bolts or quick release clamps. - --Select the circle icon in the left menu --Draw a circle in the rough location --You can adjust the x & y radius from the top menu --Now select it and duplicate it by pressing CTRL + D --Now hold CTRL and move it to the right (holding control means it will snap to be aligned in the x or y axis of where it was before) --Now select both top holes and duplicate them and do the same to create the bottom two holes \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-ruler-mould-with-inkscape/step_9.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-ruler-mould-with-inkscape/step_9.md deleted file mode 100644 index 5d4581587..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-ruler-mould-with-inkscape/step_9.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Make center mould - - -Select all of the items using the selection tool or by pressing CTRL + A --Now duplicate all the objects pressing CTRL + D --Now hold CTRL and move the duplicated objects to be just below it to avoid wasted material when laser cutting --Now you can delete the rulers and the material logo by selecting it and pressing delete \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-shelf-with-sheets--beams/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-shelf-with-sheets--beams/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index a894c91c7..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-shelf-with-sheets--beams/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Make a shelf with sheets & beams - - -Contrary to popular belief, plastic is durable and tough enough to be used as a supporting material as well! - -Here we show how you can make a shelf completely made of recycled plastic sheets and beams. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-shelf-with-sheets--beams/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-shelf-with-sheets--beams/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 6a3dbeed5..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-shelf-with-sheets--beams/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,14 +0,0 @@ -### Get ready - - Before you start, make sure you have everything that you need: -4x T-shape beams -5x plastic sheets 100cm x 40cm -40x Metal pins 12 mm x 6 mm -80x M5 screws -2x Tension Wires (3,5 m each) - -General plastic working tools - -Related links: -How to make T-shape beams 👉 https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/make-a-t-shape-beam- -How to make plastic sheets 👉 https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/build/sheetpressrun \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-shelf-with-sheets--beams/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-shelf-with-sheets--beams/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 23f2f82be..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-shelf-with-sheets--beams/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Drilling the beams - - Now that we have our beam ready, we need to drill 12 mm holes on the leg of the T. The first hole will be 7,6 cm from the floor. The distance between the next holes will be 42,5 cm, as the template. Here you will insert the metal pins. - -Between this hole and the corner of the T beam, you drill a 3 mm holes, to pass the tension wires, to hold the four beams together and tigh. In our design we drilled the four corners of the second shelf, and the back corners of the fourth shelf. - -Take a look on the edges of the beam, you may need a knife to shape the sharp edges. Remember to stay safe and use a mask and glasses here. - -Feel free to change the heights of the shelves. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-shelf-with-sheets--beams/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-shelf-with-sheets--beams/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index c949df1f5..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-shelf-with-sheets--beams/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Making the pins - - Cut 6 cm from the round metal bar and mill it on one side, so you get a flat surface to drill two 4,2 mm holes, 1 cm away from the edges, each. Then make a M5 thread. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-shelf-with-sheets--beams/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-shelf-with-sheets--beams/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index eabc5ea29..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-shelf-with-sheets--beams/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Make the shelves - - Let’s continue with the sheets. - -Print the shape of the shelves which are provided in the download files. Create a template on a MDF sheet and use it to copy this shape five times on your plastic sheets. - -Cut it roughly with the jigsaw and route the edges with the help of the template. Drill and countersink the holes. - -Remember to wear a mask and glasses here! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-shelf-with-sheets--beams/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-shelf-with-sheets--beams/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9409c43b2..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-shelf-with-sheets--beams/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Assembling - - With the five 12 mm holes made on the four beams, you can insert the metal pins. - -Start with the two back beams on the floor, for assembling the first shelf (bottom one) and tighten the screws from the shelf into the metal pins. - -Repeat this process with the five shelves. - -After connecting the five shelves to the two back beams, you can insert the two front beams, and tighten the screws from the shelves into the metal pins. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-shelf-with-sheets--beams/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-shelf-with-sheets--beams/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 265c3611d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-shelf-with-sheets--beams/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Tension Wire - - Time to apply our two tension wires for some more stability. Have a look at the drawing from the download files as a reference. - -Lift the shelf from the floor, and pass one the first tension wire through A, B and C. Then connect A to C. - -Take the second tension wire and pass it through 1, 2 and 3. Then connect 1 to 3. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-shelf-with-sheets--beams/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-shelf-with-sheets--beams/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9d0179c45..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-shelf-with-sheets--beams/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### You’re done - - Alright, you're done! -Time to enjoy your new precious shelf. - -Oh, and in case something breaks, make sure you bring the plastic parts to a Precious Plastic Workspace nearby or recycle in another reponsible way. :) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-silicone-mould-for-soft-plastics/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-silicone-mould-for-soft-plastics/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 5b13741c7..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-silicone-mould-for-soft-plastics/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Make a Silicone Mould for Soft Plastics - - -This tutorial will show you how to cast an object in silicone to use with soft plastics. Casting with silicone will allow you to remake intricate, delicate or unusual objects in plastic. - -You can get as experimental as you wish casting simples items such as a vase or something as extreme as a tree! Don’t worry you will be able to use this mould over and over again. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-silicone-mould-for-soft-plastics/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-silicone-mould-for-soft-plastics/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index fbd7b017a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-silicone-mould-for-soft-plastics/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,15 +0,0 @@ -### Gathering the Tools - - Before we begin make sure you have the right tools. - -You will need: -Casting silicone (equal part 1:1) -Measuring jug -Plastic stirrer -Take-away container (recycled of course!) -Clay -Knife -Your chosen object - -For this tutorial I have used 500ml of silicone for an object which measures (h)10x(w)2.5x(l)3cm. -Make sure you have a clean work space and all your tools are ready. Silicone sets fast and can be costly to waste \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-silicone-mould-for-soft-plastics/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-silicone-mould-for-soft-plastics/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 93bee4a99..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-silicone-mould-for-soft-plastics/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Preparing Your Object - - First clean your object of dirt or dust. - -Using clay place a small strip to the back of your object making sure the object sits flat when placed down—this will become the entry for your plastic once the mould is complete. - -Be sure to cover any wholes and neaten the edges with a knife cutting away any excess. -Place the object facing upwards onto the take-away container lid. - -Now you are ready to build the walls of your mould box. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-silicone-mould-for-soft-plastics/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-silicone-mould-for-soft-plastics/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index b635cba8d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-silicone-mould-for-soft-plastics/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Making the Mould Box - - As take-away containers usually have uneven bases cut out the bottom of the container using a knife. You should be left with the container edges, the bottom and the lid. The container edges will be used as the walls of the box, the bottom will be used as an additional wall and the lid will become the bottom of your box. - -Place the walls of the container over the lid and object. Leave a 2-3cm gap between the object and the walls. If the walls are too far from the object use the additional wall (the cut out bottom) as an insert to get closer to the object. -The closer you are to your object the less silicone you waste! diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-silicone-mould-for-soft-plastics/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-silicone-mould-for-soft-plastics/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 5505dde7b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-silicone-mould-for-soft-plastics/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Sealing the Mould Box - - Once you have the right area around the object we need to seal the base of the walls with clay so the silicone does not escape. - -Roll the clay into a ball and then into thin noodles. Press the noodles along the edges off your walls inside and out. The mould box should now be silicone tight! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-silicone-mould-for-soft-plastics/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-silicone-mould-for-soft-plastics/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 6bf5b8d96..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-silicone-mould-for-soft-plastics/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Preparing and Mixing the Silicone - - The hardest part is over! Now it's time to prepare the silicone for pouring. - -Preparation: -Line up the measuring jug, the silicone bottles (A) and (B), the stirrer and the mould box. Remember you must work fast before the silicone sets so you must have everything ready to go. -Mixing: -Add 250ml of part A into the measuring jug, then add 250ml of B. This should equal 500ml of silicone in the jug. -Now quickly mix the silicone with your stirrer. Be sure that the mixture is thoroughly mixed otherwise your silicone will not set properly. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-silicone-mould-for-soft-plastics/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-silicone-mould-for-soft-plastics/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 02d2fcc77..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-silicone-mould-for-soft-plastics/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Pouring the Silicone & Clean Up - - Pouring: -Concentrate on the highest point and the centre of the object—pour directly onto the most detailed section first, then moving around the object making sure the silicone reaches every part of the surface and the object is evenly coated. -Leave the silicone to set (approx 30 mins) - -Cleanup: -Leave the excess silicone on your jug and stirrer. Let it to dry fro 30 mins. Once dry the silicone can be pealed off leaving the jug and stirrer perfectly clean. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-silicone-mould-for-soft-plastics/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-silicone-mould-for-soft-plastics/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index 36702dcc1..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-silicone-mould-for-soft-plastics/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Releasing the Mould - - -After 30mins or after the silicone stops being sticky you may release your mould. To do this you must remove the clay from the edges of your container and silicone mould. Once the clay is removed from the container and the silicone, stretch the sides of the mould to remove the object. - -Keep the clay and the plastic container as you may use them again. - -Once the Object is removed you are ready to use the mould! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-silicone-mould-for-soft-plastics/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-silicone-mould-for-soft-plastics/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8a2993030..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-silicone-mould-for-soft-plastics/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,13 +0,0 @@ -### Using the Mould - - Once the mould is released you are ready to begin using it. - -Please note; this mould is suitable for soft plastics. This mould is best when plastic is hand-pressed into the mould. Be sure that you are using heat and chemical resistant gloves when handling the plastic. - -For this mould I have reused plastic from another project to melt and press into my mould. -You may need to sand or cut off some messy edges to complete the look you want. - -Silicone will capture any surface as will your plastic when being moulded so go big or go home! - - -Note: I have only used soft plastics (LDPE & HDPE) with this technique but please feel free to experiment. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-simple--efficient-500mm-x-300-mm-sheet/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-simple--efficient-500mm-x-300-mm-sheet/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 0757e696a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-simple--efficient-500mm-x-300-mm-sheet/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,17 +0,0 @@ -### Make a simple & efficient 500mm x 300 mm sheet - - -This is Zero Plastics Australia's Large craft sheet design, In our opinion a must need for any workspace. - -MATERIALS NEEDED: -Sheet press -800grams granulated plastic -1 aluminum frame -2 aluminum base plates -Stanley knife and paint scraper (this will help you to gently pry apart the aluminum plates. - -Cooking - 20-30 mins -Cooling - 20-30 mins -Tidy up - 5-10 mins - -Zero.plastics.australia@gmail.com \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-simple--efficient-500mm-x-300-mm-sheet/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-simple--efficient-500mm-x-300-mm-sheet/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 3b80331b9..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-simple--efficient-500mm-x-300-mm-sheet/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Preparing the mould - - You need 2 base plates and one aluminum frame (we highly recommend having a thick border, the frame will bend less easily) -Lay 1 base plate and the aluminum frame down, fill evenly with the plastic granules, then lay the second base plate on top, like a sandwich before closing. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-simple--efficient-500mm-x-300-mm-sheet/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-simple--efficient-500mm-x-300-mm-sheet/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index b12c765b4..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-simple--efficient-500mm-x-300-mm-sheet/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Preparing the machine - - Turn your machine on. Temperature depends on plastic used, however we use HDPE. - -Once temperature reaches 200 degrees, close the machine as tightly as you can, until you hear a click. This might take some fiddling with the knob at the top. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-simple--efficient-500mm-x-300-mm-sheet/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-simple--efficient-500mm-x-300-mm-sheet/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 0b9cc7061..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-simple--efficient-500mm-x-300-mm-sheet/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Melting the plastic - - Melting takes 20-30 minutes. Once completed, pull the aluminum plates out and set aside on the concrete, we lay another slab of concrete on top for compression. (extra weight doesn't hurt) Let it sit for 30 minutes to cool. Be patient with this, because doing it sooner can cause issues. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-simple--efficient-500mm-x-300-mm-sheet/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-simple--efficient-500mm-x-300-mm-sheet/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8b849c335..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-simple--efficient-500mm-x-300-mm-sheet/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Tidy up - - This is where the paint scraper is needed. Place it into the gap and gently pry the plates apart. please do test mould release and other ways, if you find a better way please let us know. -You can use the Stanley knife to gently carve out the sheet if it gets stuck. -Then take your time to gently carve the borders to clean up your sheet. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-simple--efficient-500mm-x-300-mm-sheet/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-simple--efficient-500mm-x-300-mm-sheet/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index f7ded191b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-simple--efficient-500mm-x-300-mm-sheet/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,13 +0,0 @@ -### Experiment with colours - - Now that your done, experiment with colours and patterns. - -Give us a like on -Facebook https://www.facebook.com/ZeroPlasticsAustralia -and -Instagram @Zeroplasticsaustralia -and if you have any questions send us an email at Zero.plastics.australia@gmail.com - -Thanks and happy recycling! - -www.zeroplasticsaustralia.com \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-simple-stamp-from-copper-wire/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-simple-stamp-from-copper-wire/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2fda02181..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-simple-stamp-from-copper-wire/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Make a simple stamp from copper wire - - -It is very important to mark your products with their specific plastic type, so they can be recycled better. There are several ways to do this. Here we show a very simple technique to make your own stamps with a copper wire. - -(Alternatively you can also buy plastic type stamps on the Precious Plastic bazar) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-simple-stamp-from-copper-wire/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-simple-stamp-from-copper-wire/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index c4f90b847..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-simple-stamp-from-copper-wire/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Get ready - - Let's start with getting our materials and tools ready. -To make the stamps, you will need: -- Wire/cables -- Cutter (Workshop knife) -- Pliers to bend and cut -- File to soften corners -- Soldering Iron - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-simple-stamp-from-copper-wire/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-simple-stamp-from-copper-wire/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 433ce2694..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-simple-stamp-from-copper-wire/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Stay safe - - When you use your new stamp make sure to wear a mask as toxic fumes can arouse. In general when handling the iron be careful to not burn yourself and a workshop knife also can be quite dangerous. So stay safe. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-simple-stamp-from-copper-wire/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-simple-stamp-from-copper-wire/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index c6e14680e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-simple-stamp-from-copper-wire/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Get your wire - - Copper offers very good heat transportation and works the best for the stamps. We can get this from some cables, which are made with hard copper wire. This means there is one massive string of copper and not many small ones. Check your offcut area or visit your local scrap yard, if you can’t find them, you can also buy normal copper rods. Strip your cable carefully from the plastic with the knife and you are ready to move on. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-simple-stamp-from-copper-wire/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-simple-stamp-from-copper-wire/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 72ea948d4..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-simple-stamp-from-copper-wire/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Bend your wire - - Now bend the copper in your desired shapes. Use your pliers to support the bending and squeezing. Make sure to include 2 cm of wire orthogonally from your later or symbol to fix later in your iron. - If you feel adventurous you can also carefully solder copper pieces together, but we didn’t experiment with that, as we heat up the copper later, which can weaken the bond. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-simple-stamp-from-copper-wire/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-simple-stamp-from-copper-wire/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8bd7ee849..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-simple-stamp-from-copper-wire/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Make a library of shapes and letters - - We found it makes sense to create everything you could need in advance so you are well prepared for marking your plastic. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-simple-stamp-from-copper-wire/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-simple-stamp-from-copper-wire/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index a9b435a58..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-simple-stamp-from-copper-wire/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Get your iron ready - - We are using a very basic 65W soldering iron and didn’t need to change much. Your iron needs a bolt on the side to keep the copper wire in place. We had already a hole in it to fix the tip, which we just opened a little more and threaded it to M4 for a better grip. Get a short M4 bolt and you are good to go. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-simple-stamp-from-copper-wire/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-simple-stamp-from-copper-wire/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index a1fa445a6..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-simple-stamp-from-copper-wire/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Stamping - - Now you are ready to stamp. The copper shows through a slight changing of color very good when it is hot enough to stamp. This shouldn’t take more than a few seconds. Carefully press the copper on the plastic and see how it melts your work into it. Don’t apply too much pressure as the copper gets very soft when warm and can bend. Different materials need different handling so always when using something new have a piece for testing on hand. - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-simple-stamp-from-copper-wire/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-simple-stamp-from-copper-wire/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index c34c17e0c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-simple-stamp-from-copper-wire/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Happy stamping! - - Easy and fast way to mark your plastic, as you should NEVER give out plastic without labeling. Let us know how it went for you and if you discovered something new. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-squat-stool/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-squat-stool/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index b30dc22a2..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-squat-stool/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Make a Squat Stool - - -I am a flat pack design utility add on to existing toilets using english WC's to heal correcting the posture which improves the internal architecture of human body and heals many of stomach related disfunctions, improves the digestion system. -Me realized in the young generation of today's to correct the posture of using WC the way it was suppose \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-squat-stool/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-squat-stool/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index e482393a5..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-squat-stool/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Take sheet of 12mm thickness - - The sheet has to be of 12mm for the exact grooving composition, and size can be of 4ftx 4ft. If your sheet thickness varies then 12mm please adjust the grooves in cad file \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-squat-stool/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-squat-stool/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 12d6c8bf2..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-squat-stool/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Get cad file in CNC machine - - The cad file is supposed to be converted in cnc machine file format and let the machine do its job, \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-squat-stool/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-squat-stool/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 845e68193..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-squat-stool/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Buff the edges - - Buff the edges for a cleaner finish \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-squat-stool/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-squat-stool/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4bea31448..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-squat-stool/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Assemble the product - - assemble the product as mentioned in the following document. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-stool-with-upcycled-petg-3d-print-waste/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-stool-with-upcycled-petg-3d-print-waste/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 84f04d876..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-stool-with-upcycled-petg-3d-print-waste/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Make a stool with upcycled PETG 3D print waste - - -In this How-To we'll teach you how to transform 3D print waste in design objects, using a shredder, a sheetpress and a CNC \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-stool-with-upcycled-petg-3d-print-waste/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-stool-with-upcycled-petg-3d-print-waste/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 3a30061dc..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-stool-with-upcycled-petg-3d-print-waste/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Collect plastic - - First of all you have to collects all the plastic waste that came from your 3D print like supports or corrupted prints -Divide it in type of plastic like PLA, PETG, ABS etc... \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-stool-with-upcycled-petg-3d-print-waste/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-stool-with-upcycled-petg-3d-print-waste/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index ed2961f37..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-stool-with-upcycled-petg-3d-print-waste/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Begin to shredd - - At this point you have to shred the material and collect it. Decide how many times to pass it from the shredder according to the size you want to collect \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-stool-with-upcycled-petg-3d-print-waste/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-stool-with-upcycled-petg-3d-print-waste/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 28da59a64..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-stool-with-upcycled-petg-3d-print-waste/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Now it's time for the sheetpress - - Now we place all our chopped plastic in the 1X1MT mold, we put it into the sheetpress and we create our upcycled plastic sheet \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-stool-with-upcycled-petg-3d-print-waste/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-stool-with-upcycled-petg-3d-print-waste/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 33e5f41c6..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-stool-with-upcycled-petg-3d-print-waste/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Time for the CNC - - Now we put our 1X1MT sheet, cutted in 35X35CM pieces under the CNC and we create rouded pieces with a diameter of 30CM \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-stool-with-upcycled-petg-3d-print-waste/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-stool-with-upcycled-petg-3d-print-waste/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 3c5b0111f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-stool-with-upcycled-petg-3d-print-waste/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Work is done - - Now all that remains is to drill the recycled plastic discs to be fixed to a metal base, and here is our stool \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-stool-with-woodworking-techniques/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-stool-with-woodworking-techniques/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 408e651cf..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-stool-with-woodworking-techniques/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Make a stool with woodworking techniques - - -Learn how to make a stool only using woodworking techniques. Cutting HDPE is one of the techniques that gives the most shiny outcome without any extra steps. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-stool-with-woodworking-techniques/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-stool-with-woodworking-techniques/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 5ceab4a71..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-stool-with-woodworking-techniques/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,13 +0,0 @@ -### Get ready - - Okay, so before jumping into the building process, get an overview of what you need to follow this How-to. - -First, download the files attached at the top of this How-to and check the part list to know exactly which tools and materials are needed. - -You can make this stool applying basic woodworking tools and techniques. - -It's made entirely out of a plastic sheet, so you’ll need to get one first or make one if you have a sheetpress :) - -Related links: -How to make sheets 👉 https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/build/sheetpressrun -Find sheets on the Bazar👉 bazar.preciousplastic.com \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-stool-with-woodworking-techniques/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-stool-with-woodworking-techniques/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index e52dddafe..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-stool-with-woodworking-techniques/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Overview of the product - - The assembly of this stool works with tight fittings (aka tolerances). The part of the legs that goes through the stool top have to be 0.9mm bigger than the hole. This in combination with the properties of the material will make a really tight fit. - -In our case we are using a 28mm thick sheet, so the dimension of the holes has to be 27.1mm. Make sure to first check the thickness of your sheet and adapt the 3D model of the wood jigs to your needs. In the download files you’ll find the dimensions that are susceptible of change marked in red. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-stool-with-woodworking-techniques/step_10.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-stool-with-woodworking-techniques/step_10.md deleted file mode 100644 index 6142fb49c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-stool-with-woodworking-techniques/step_10.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Align legs - - Next step is to make the stool even. - -Use a level to know whether the stool sits straight or not and put wooden shims until it does. Once you are happy with how it feels, use a height caliper to mark all the legs at the same height. - -fter doing that, cut them straight with a blade or sand them till you are happy with the result. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-stool-with-woodworking-techniques/step_11.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-stool-with-woodworking-techniques/step_11.md deleted file mode 100644 index 5b6858caa..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-stool-with-woodworking-techniques/step_11.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Stamping - - Before calling this piece done we have to make sure we mark it with the proper material code. In our case we are stamping it with the number 2 - HDPE. This is crucial later on to be able to identify what is it made of and what can be done with it. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-stool-with-woodworking-techniques/step_12.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-stool-with-woodworking-techniques/step_12.md deleted file mode 100644 index 69f290663..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-stool-with-woodworking-techniques/step_12.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Make it live long! - - Congratulations, you made it! Enjoy and take care of your new stool. - -This stool is designed to be disassembled easily. So in case a part breaks or you want to change something, just remove that piece and replace it with a new one. - -Also the top can be always polished to make it shiny again. Even though the scratches can give a cool look over time. - -If the piece cannot be reused or refurbished make sure to bring them to your local Precious Plastic workspace or recycle it in another responsible way :) diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-stool-with-woodworking-techniques/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-stool-with-woodworking-techniques/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index c828ec5c0..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-stool-with-woodworking-techniques/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Laser cut jigs - - Once we have double checked the dimensions, we are going to create the patterns we’ll use to mark and cut the different parts of the stool. One for the top and another one for the legs. As we could do this repeated times is recommended to make them out of wood. In this case we will use 9mm plywood, but could be up to 12mm. - -One way of cutting this jigs is by using a laser cutter. This is a precise and affordable technique that will guarantee high precision (<0.2mm tolerance). diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-stool-with-woodworking-techniques/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-stool-with-woodworking-techniques/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index c702de4b0..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-stool-with-woodworking-techniques/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Transfer lines to the plastic sheet - - The next step is to decide where to cut in our plastic sheet. Depending on the quality of your plastic sheet you’ll do this differently. - -You should strive for an efficient usage of the material. But if the quality of your sheet has a huge deviation in the thickness you may need to find a good spot first. - -In the download files you can find one example where the legs are placed parallely in order to guarantee the same thickness when assembling. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-stool-with-woodworking-techniques/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-stool-with-woodworking-techniques/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index a39edb6c2..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-stool-with-woodworking-techniques/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Cut roughly with the jigsaw all the parts - - Once we have the piece marked we just have to cut on the other side of the line with the jigsaw. At this point the cut doesn’t has to be super precise since we are going to use the handrouter afterwards. Just remember to leave enough space (around 8-10mm) from the edge of the mark in order to avoid that the jigsaw deviation caused by the thickness affects the final piece. - -If working on plastic with this tool is new to you, check the How-to "Cut with the Jigsaw†where you can find several tricks to cut plastic easier. -👉 https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/cut-plastic-jigsaw \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-stool-with-woodworking-techniques/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-stool-with-woodworking-techniques/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4ebe896ad..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-stool-with-woodworking-techniques/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Finish the legs - - Use double sided strong tape to put the jigs on top making sure we have enough space to cut out all over the contour. You will use a combination of table router and manual handrouter in order to cut the whole safely. In both cases make sure the bearing is aligned with the height of the wooden jig, so it follows it’s form. - -Once you finish with the leg, you can remove the jig by using a spatula before milling the edges with the 6mm radius counter bit. The result should be 4 legs with a perfect 90º cut and some smooth rounded parts. Check the downloading kit to know where to do it exactly. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-stool-with-woodworking-techniques/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-stool-with-woodworking-techniques/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index d0a6befc4..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-stool-with-woodworking-techniques/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Make the top - - We’ll repeat a similar process to make the stool top. - -First we’ll fix the jig on top with double sided tape, you want to put enough so the jig doesn’t move later when pushing the tool against it. - -Using the handrouter for all the process first we’ll cut the outside and the four holes with the long bit, and later we’ll round the edges of all the contour of the stool as well as one of the small sides of the holes. - -Check the download files to know exactly where to do it. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-stool-with-woodworking-techniques/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-stool-with-woodworking-techniques/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index 419097245..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-stool-with-woodworking-techniques/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Finish the legs - - There’s one dimension that is on purpose bigger than needed. The reason why is so we can adjust it to the perfect size so it fits just tight. In order to do that we’ll have to measure the bigger length in one of the holes we just made in the stool top. - -Then we’ll grab the legs and cut or sand down with a file the front so the final piece measures 0.8mm longer than the hole. -Example: if the hole measures 95.8mm we want the piece to measure 96.6mm - -It is recommended to do it patiently since on this step we are defining partly how tight the piece is going to join. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-stool-with-woodworking-techniques/step_8.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-stool-with-woodworking-techniques/step_8.md deleted file mode 100644 index 0a626caae..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-stool-with-woodworking-techniques/step_8.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Assembly - - For the assembly it should be easy to situate the legs by hand and carefully hamer it till it fits on the position. - -You will notice that the legs stick out a bit from the top, these parts should get removed and we’ll show you how in the next step. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-stool-with-woodworking-techniques/step_9.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-stool-with-woodworking-techniques/step_9.md deleted file mode 100644 index 6f9659bbc..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-stool-with-woodworking-techniques/step_9.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Finish top - - First use a flexible japanese saw in order to remove the part from the leg that sticks out from the top. Bend it and try to avoid deep scratches on the top. Once the majority of the material is removed you can use a chisel to take out the rest and making it as even and flat as possible. - -Finally you can sand the top going from 400 to 1200. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-t-shape-beam-/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-t-shape-beam-/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 0fb795665..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-t-shape-beam-/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Make a T-shape beam - - -Showcasing the process of creating custom shaped moulds for the extrusion machine. In this How-to we will look into making a mould for a T-shaped profile. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-t-shape-beam-/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-t-shape-beam-/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 6f4f7cf67..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-t-shape-beam-/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,15 +0,0 @@ -### Tools and equipment required - - To make the mould you will require: - -2x L angle iron 60 x 60mm, 190cm long -1x 100mm M.S flat 190cm long -3x 12 x 12mm M.S rods 190cm long -Sheet metal ( minimum 3mm or more preferable ) -5mm x30mm nut and bolt -6mm x 30mm nut and bolt -Threaded pipe or fitting (BSPT size of your nozzle) - -Angle Grinder / Metal saw -Welding machine -Drill Press / Drilling machine diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-t-shape-beam-/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-t-shape-beam-/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index f55040b45..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-t-shape-beam-/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Creating a template - - Before we start work on the mould it will be good to create a template of the beam size we need to help make the mould making process easier. For the template we can use 12mm and 6mm thick MDF or plywood . Find the parts for the template in the image below (all pieces are 190cm longs) diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-t-shape-beam-/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-t-shape-beam-/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 0466ff73f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-t-shape-beam-/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Part I of mould - - Now that we have the template ready we can start making the mould. Let’s place the part 1 of the template on the table and place the 100mm M.S Flat into the template. Next we can place part 2 aligned to the outer edges. Now place the 2 M.S rods and part 3 of the template into the slots. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-t-shape-beam-/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-t-shape-beam-/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index de3295f05..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-t-shape-beam-/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Fix mould part 1 - - Make sure to clamp the metal pieces and template, then drill 6mm holes every 15 cm for the first half and every 25 cm in the second half, on both the square rods. (Note: we add more screws in the first half as more pressure is built up here during extrusion and to prevent leakage) - -Now we can remove part 1 and 2 of the template and fasten on the nuts and bolts. Weld the outer joint of the square rods and the flat. (note: weld in shorter stretches and alternate with gaps to prevent the mould from deforming) diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-t-shape-beam-/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-t-shape-beam-/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 555e46bb5..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-t-shape-beam-/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Mould part 2 - - Now that we have the bottom part we can move on to the second part of the mould. Place part 3 of the template back into the mould then place the 2 L angles on top and the square rod in between them and fasten down with clamps. - -Drill 5mm holes every 30cm and fasten with nuts and bolts. Weld the portion between the square rod and the L angle to seal the mould for the whole length. (Again, weld in shorter stretches and alternate with gaps to prevent the mould from deforming) diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-t-shape-beam-/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-t-shape-beam-/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 6c9da1539..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-t-shape-beam-/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Weld the mould - - Now that we have the two parts of the mould, we will use the holes of part 1 of the mould to drill holes into L angles, to be able to attach the two parts of the mould. Once all the holes are drilled, we can fasten them with M6 x 30mm bolts and nuts. - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-t-shape-beam-/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-t-shape-beam-/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index d8681b40b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-t-shape-beam-/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Make mounting brackets and nozzle - - Cut 3 pieces of sheet metal (minimum 3mm thick) that are to be welded onto the mould so that we can connect the mould to the nozzle. Now we can weld them onto the mould. Now we need a sheet of metal for the nozzle plate. You can take the outer size of the mounting bracket and you will get the size required. Now we need to weld the BSPT onto the nozzle plate (note: place the BSPT in the junction of the T to get the best flow and results for your beam). Drill a hole in the nozzle plate to the size of the BSPT and 4 holes to connect the mounting plate and nozzle plate. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-t-shape-beam-/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-t-shape-beam-/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index f89acedb9..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-t-shape-beam-/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Explore the possibilities! - - Finally, the mould is ready, well done! Have fun extruding custom shaped and long beams. For best results extrude with a hot mould using heating elements or an oven. This technique of mould building opens up a door for many more custom shapes and sizes with regular fabrication. - -Related links: -How to extrude different textures 👉 https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/extrude-different-textures -How to build a shelving system with T beams 👉 https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/make-a-shelf-with-sheets--beams - -Have fun exploring! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-wall-hook/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-wall-hook/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index fdbb527ec..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-wall-hook/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,14 +0,0 @@ -### Make a wall hook - - -Wall hooks are mainly used to hang clothes. But this design allows you to hang your jackets, kitchen clothes, towel. It has a very versatile and simple design in order to serve as much places and uses as possible. - -Find attached the files for the mould, the tool to make the holes in the right place and the original hook design. - -Here you can find the video of Project Kamp where we make the whole proccess of recycling our waste (From 8:12 till 21:59) - -https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9aI_vgMyJfU&ab_channel=ProjectKamp - -If you don´t have the capacity or just don´t want to make your own mould you can buy it in the bazar in the following link: - -https://bazar.preciousplastic.com/moulds/injection-moulds/hook-mould-1-6-cavities \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-wall-hook/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-wall-hook/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index b09a18dac..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-wall-hook/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Make your mould - - This mould is design to be manufacture with aluminum machined with a CNC machine. You can find the files in this How-To \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-wall-hook/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-wall-hook/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 5ba6a0b06..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-wall-hook/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Collect your plastic and shredd it - - It is time to collect your plastic! Remember to not mix plastics. In our case we are gonna use PP, but this product can be injected with HDPE too. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-wall-hook/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-wall-hook/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index c24e80049..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-wall-hook/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Inject - - It is time to inject! In our case we use a classic V3 Injection machine with the 1/2" nozzle. But you can use any other variation of injection machines, the mould is quite flexible to be used with other machines and can handle different pressures. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-wall-hook/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-wall-hook/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 143046ee9..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-wall-hook/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Drill the holes - - Once your hooks are injected you have to drill some holes in order to screw your hooks to the wall. - -For this we provide you with an .STL file for a template to drill the holes always in the same position. - -In our case we have used 4x30 screws for the wall so we use a 3.5mm drill and a 8.3mm countersink - -TIP: Make sure you are drilling straight in the hole \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-wall-hook/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-wall-hook/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 29f62cc6f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-wall-hook/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Install your hook - - In our case we used 4x30 screws for wood, but you can adapt this dimension to your needs. For adjusting screw size you should also adjust your drill/countersink sizes. - -We are installing our hook on thick wood surfaces but you can choose to install it wherever you want! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-wall-hook/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-wall-hook/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index e9da60d10..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-wall-hook/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11 +0,0 @@ -### Share with the world - - Now it is time to share with the world your hooks and inspire other to make it! - -When sharing them please credit the following workspaces - - -Hook design by: Fair Enough (@@{7Jon7qP2jiQYRvfFK3flPxwnh1A2:fair-enough}) Instagram @ ​fairenough.studio -Mould design by: Easymoulds (@@{cDfWqCI0NidOCidP26qeYhBntpQ2:easymoulds}) Instragram @ easymoulds - -Thanks for copying and recycle as much waste as you can into these hooks! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-wall-peg/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-wall-peg/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4b0d881f0..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-wall-peg/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Make a Wall Peg - - -Here you will find the 3D model and blueprints to create the wall peg mold! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-wall-peg/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-wall-peg/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 55df99c00..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-wall-peg/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Get your materials and prepare the work: - - Make sure you have all your materials ready and go through the drawings and steps to understand the full picture of the process. This will help you to work more efficiently and accurate. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-wall-peg/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-wall-peg/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8273101d8..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-wall-peg/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Cut the nozzle nipple: - - With all the parts in the bag, let’s start cutting the steel pipe nipple (no. 7) in half to make the mold nozzle. (Drawings page 3). \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-wall-peg/step_10.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-wall-peg/step_10.md deleted file mode 100644 index 5c07bd0e5..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-wall-peg/step_10.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Cut the metal sheet - - From a thin metal sheet, cut part no. 6 and cut its corners to prevent injuries. With four nails, hammer it in the center of no. 5. (See drawings pages 11-12) diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-wall-peg/step_11.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-wall-peg/step_11.md deleted file mode 100644 index 972954062..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-wall-peg/step_11.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Drill the screw holder hole - - Drill a ⅛†hole in the center of parts no. 5 and 6. Insert a screw to create the thread in the wood. (See drawings pages 10-11-12) diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-wall-peg/step_12.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-wall-peg/step_12.md deleted file mode 100644 index 6d28dc146..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-wall-peg/step_12.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Done! - - And you’re done! Here is your Wall Peg mold. -Remember to put a new screw in the wooden mold base every time you are going to inject. If you forget, the hole will be filled with plastic and won’t work. But don’t worry! Drill it again and you are done. -To open the mold, take off the bolts sideways, then cut the plastic at the entrance and pull apart the mold parts. Then, unscrew the peg off the wooden part and you have your peg ready.. -Since the plug has some volume, it will take time to cool down and the outgoing screw will be soft. Avoid tilting it and make sure it is in the right position. -It will work with all the plastics and it is very easy and smooth to inject. Just explore and find your favorite plastics and mixtures. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-wall-peg/step_13.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-wall-peg/step_13.md deleted file mode 100644 index a01f399c6..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-wall-peg/step_13.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Happy hanging :) - - To install the peg on the wall, drill a hole and fix it by hand with a wall plug. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-wall-peg/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-wall-peg/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 57703bf68..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-wall-peg/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Make the nozzle flange: - - Get the steel disc (no. 3) and turn a hole in the center with diameter to fit in tightly one half of the steel pipe nipple (part no. 7). (See drawings page 4) diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-wall-peg/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-wall-peg/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 61e957e5a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-wall-peg/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Turn the nozzle guide - - Turn one face of the flange to create a 3†diameter guide to fit the mold body no. 1: (See drawings page 4) diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-wall-peg/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-wall-peg/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index afe7c6c78..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-wall-peg/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Weld the nozzle - - Weld no. 3 and no. 7 together. Then chamfer the welded edge on the lathe: (See drawings page 5) diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-wall-peg/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-wall-peg/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4038b2251..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-wall-peg/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Drill the base center hole - - Get disc no. 4 and drill a 9/32†hole in the center. (See drawings page 6) diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-wall-peg/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-wall-peg/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index 1f28904ed..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-wall-peg/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Drill and cut the screw holes - - Drill four holes in the border of discs no. 3-4 and cut its sides. (See drawings pages 4-6) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-wall-peg/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-wall-peg/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index b08043bec..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-wall-peg/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Drill the base fixing holes - - Drill four more 3/16†holes in disc no. 4. (See drawings page 6) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-wall-peg/step_8.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-wall-peg/step_8.md deleted file mode 100644 index ccfe112c7..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-wall-peg/step_8.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Get your CNC turned parts - - To get that curved, smooth and shiny surface for the cavity of the mold, get the parts no. 1-2 and the 3D files, and take them to the best CNC lathe workshop in town. They will handle the different file extensions, but for any doubts, the drawings will make everything clear. (See drawings pages 7-8-9) diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-wall-peg/step_9.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-wall-peg/step_9.md deleted file mode 100644 index 624564b8c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a-wall-peg/step_9.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Make the mold base - - Get part no. 5 and cut its corners tangent to a 3†circle (diameter of part no. 2). (See drawings page 10) diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a4-size-clipboard/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a4-size-clipboard/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 5e4cab58d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a4-size-clipboard/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Make A4 size clipboard - - -Make original clipboard from recycled plastic material. Board size is 315x230 mm thickness 5mm, 4x radius R8 in corners. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a4-size-clipboard/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a4-size-clipboard/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7dfac5f5f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a4-size-clipboard/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Prepare your mould - - I share with you 3D data and blueprints for personal use. -Material steel, thickness 5mm. -You can also buy mould or mini press on Bazar. - -Recommended mould fasterners: -M6x45 (at least 4 pieces) -M6 washers -M6 nuts \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a4-size-clipboard/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a4-size-clipboard/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 30ef8dc5b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a4-size-clipboard/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,13 +0,0 @@ -### Prepare material + mould - - I have already tested HDPE, PP or PLA with good results. -You can play with different colours and bottle cap design. :) -You need between 320 - 350 g / clipboard. - -Before testing new material type, make a note/ picture how many material did you use. It will help you with future production. - -Clean mould from impurities, dust or remaining plastic particles from previous production. (I use smooth sand paper) -To avoid sticking use mould release or oil. -Make sure your oil will not get to its smoke point: -https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Template:Smoke_point_of_cooking_oils -I recommend oil with smoke point above 230 deg. Celsius \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a4-size-clipboard/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a4-size-clipboard/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 3c5a264da..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a4-size-clipboard/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,15 +0,0 @@ -### Baking + pressing - - I use IKEA Görlig electric oven. -Set up temperature according to your material type. -For HDPE and PP I use temperature 225 deg Celsius. -I put mould in the oven for 35 min. -Set up timer. - - -Attention - use heat resistent gloves when you operate with mould from oven :) - -After baking process, press mould. -Cooling process take 20 - 30 min. -If you open mould earlier, there is risk of deformation. - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a4-size-clipboard/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a4-size-clipboard/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 84f9ac074..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a4-size-clipboard/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,13 +0,0 @@ -### Postprocessing - - Cut out edges with knife, -You can sand surface. -Drill 2 holes M4 (size and location of holes depends on your clip design). -I prefer screw type rivets - you do not need special tools and you can make easy and quick change board design with clip. - -Rivet size: - -A: 4mm -B: 6mm -C: 10mm -S: 4mm diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a4-size-clipboard/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-a4-size-clipboard/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 49bfe2c08..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-a4-size-clipboard/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Follow Plastmakers - - To provide more open source content, I will be happy for share, subscribe, like, follow or comment. <3 - -More information: https://linktr.ee/plastmakers - -Thank you. - -Tom \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-alphabet-magnets-from-pla-scraps/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-alphabet-magnets-from-pla-scraps/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 3ae297d93..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-alphabet-magnets-from-pla-scraps/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Make Alphabet Magnets from PLA Scraps - - -In this “How To†you will be making Alphabet magnets out of PLA scraps from 3D prints. This process will require the use of an oven. This process will reach temperatures of 400°F so safety gear is needed. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-alphabet-magnets-from-pla-scraps/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-alphabet-magnets-from-pla-scraps/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 816c7811e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-alphabet-magnets-from-pla-scraps/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,13 +0,0 @@ -### Gather Supplies and Safety Equipment - - You will need: -Small PLA Scraps - - Clippers - - Safety Glasses - - Oven Mitts - - Silicon Mold that can withstand up to 450°F - - Cookie sheet - - Magnetic tape - - Exacto knife - - Sanding paper - - An oven \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-alphabet-magnets-from-pla-scraps/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-alphabet-magnets-from-pla-scraps/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index a7cb4aa43..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-alphabet-magnets-from-pla-scraps/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Filling the Mold - - Before filling the mold, put the mold on the cookie sheet to avoid spilling the scraps. Put on the safety glasses and use the clippers to break down the PLA scraps enough so that they fit in the mold. The scraps can go flying when you clip them. Try to fill the mold completely. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-alphabet-magnets-from-pla-scraps/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-alphabet-magnets-from-pla-scraps/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index e559242db..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-alphabet-magnets-from-pla-scraps/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Melt the PLA - - When done filling the mold with plastic, bring the cookie sheet with the mold on it to the oven. Set the oven temperature to 400°F and bake. We waited about 30 minutes for the plastic to melt, however, the oven we were using was very old so time may vary. Make sure to keep an eye on the plastic. When the plastic is melted, use oven mitts to take the cookie sheet out of the oven. Place the cookie sheet on a heat-safe surface such as the stovetop or another oven mitt. Wait for the cookie sheet to cool before moving on to the next step. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-alphabet-magnets-from-pla-scraps/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-alphabet-magnets-from-pla-scraps/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 31ef38fcd..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-alphabet-magnets-from-pla-scraps/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Repeat Steps 2 & 3 - - The mold may not be filled up enough, so clip some more scraps, put it in, and ugh so clip some more scraps and put it in the mold and melt again. Repeat till the mold is filled. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-alphabet-magnets-from-pla-scraps/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-alphabet-magnets-from-pla-scraps/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index b1c18efb4..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-alphabet-magnets-from-pla-scraps/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Pop the Letters Out and Put the Magnets On - - After the mold has fully cooled down, pop the letters out of the mold. Get the sandpaper and sand down the backs of the letters to make them flat enough for the magnets. - -When the backs are flat, roll out some magnetic tape and lay the letters on the sticky side of the tape. Use the Exacto knife to cut the magnetic tape off. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-aluminum-casted-moulds/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-aluminum-casted-moulds/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index f68b32d55..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-aluminum-casted-moulds/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Make aluminum casted moulds - - -Johe will show you the aluminum casting techniques to make moulds and make recycled plastic wall grips.Casting your own moulds from aluminum is quite a labour intensive process but the materials and resources needed are quite basic and not expensive. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-aluminum-casted-moulds/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-aluminum-casted-moulds/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 0aef9db73..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-aluminum-casted-moulds/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,15 +0,0 @@ -### Gather everything you need - - Before you start get all your gear ready: -- Respirator mask -- Plastic (PP or PS) -- Aaluminium waste -- Rrocket stove -- Charcoal -- Cclay -- Foundry sand -- Plaster -- Sanding paper -- Drill -- Injection machine -- Plastic Type Stamp diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-aluminum-casted-moulds/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-aluminum-casted-moulds/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 641c15a41..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-aluminum-casted-moulds/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Watch video tutorial - - Watch this video tutorial to learn how to make aluminum casted moulds to make organic products and recreate real objects. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-aluminum-casted-moulds/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-aluminum-casted-moulds/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 29d47643a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-aluminum-casted-moulds/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Done & Share - - After watching this video you should understand the basics of aluminium casting. You can reproduce the wall grips or try to make other products. We’re looking forward to seeing what you can come up with. Make sure to share back your new creations so the community can learn from you. Tag #preciousplastic on social media, create a new how-to or send us an email. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-adaptable-sorting-system/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-adaptable-sorting-system/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index dac8d0f47..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-adaptable-sorting-system/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Make an adaptable sorting system - - -Make a sorting system that can adapt! if you have more plastic from one type just move the tabs to suit your needs! - - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-adaptable-sorting-system/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-adaptable-sorting-system/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index f53758c44..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-adaptable-sorting-system/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Cuting the panels- CNC machine - - In this step, you can send the files we provide to be cut on a CNC machine or laser cutting machine. Be aware, these files were made in proportion to our material thickness of 25mm so all the joints match, if you change this measurement make sure you change it in the file too. -In our case, we only cut the outline on the machine but you can use this machine to do all the bevels and number engraving too. - - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-adaptable-sorting-system/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-adaptable-sorting-system/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index a80dd3812..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-adaptable-sorting-system/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Plastic type- LaserCut - - After cutting all the panels use the files with the numbers and laser cut them, make sure you align it well because each divider panel as a number on both sides, the best corner to align it from is the top highest corner. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-adaptable-sorting-system/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-adaptable-sorting-system/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 5ce389ded..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-adaptable-sorting-system/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Cuting and Finishing - - In this step, we cut the front, bottom, and back panels. -Also in this step, you can start finishing all of the parts and sanding to give a smooth touch. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-adaptable-sorting-system/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-adaptable-sorting-system/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8bd226a31..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-adaptable-sorting-system/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Mounting all the pieces - - After sanding everything you can assemble it with screws. First, you attach the sides and the bottom then you just fit the divisors as it suits your needs. - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-adaptable-sorting-system/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-adaptable-sorting-system/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index ef3efaa98..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-adaptable-sorting-system/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### ALL DONE!! - - Now you can organize your plastic much more easily! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-automated-injection-machine/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-automated-injection-machine/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index f74565068..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-automated-injection-machine/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Make an automated injection machine - - -This how-to contains information on how we built a low-cost, automated injection molding machine. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-automated-injection-machine/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-automated-injection-machine/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2db2f970d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-automated-injection-machine/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,17 +0,0 @@ -### Download the SmartInjector.zip - - Download and read carefully the Guide.pdf - -It contains the most important informations and gives you an idea how the information on the machine in the folder is structured. - -The package contains: - -- CAD -- Parts list -- Blueprints -- An examplary program -- A Circuit diagram -- Additional pictures -- ... - -we decided to rather put a little bit more information than to few. So dont be scared when we are going a bit into the details :) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-automated-injection-machine/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-automated-injection-machine/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index bbf6881cc..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-automated-injection-machine/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Check out the design - - Before you consider building this machine, make sure that it is within your capabilities. -It is much more complex than a normal injection or extrusion machine. - -In the download is a very detailed CAD of the current state. The machine is not completely perfect yet. We still keep on improving it. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-automated-injection-machine/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-automated-injection-machine/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 10e034320..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-automated-injection-machine/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Replicate and to even better - - If you want to accept the challenge, then build the machine yourself. - -It is not perfect yet and we added a troubleshooting section in the download with details on what has to be improved. -If you have good Ideas and you made improvements with your machine, please let us know and share back :) - -Cheers, SOTOP-Recycling \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-automated-injection-molding-machine/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-automated-injection-molding-machine/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index d775276c6..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-automated-injection-molding-machine/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Make an automated injection molding machine - - -This how-to contains information on how we built a low-cost, automated injection molding machine. Unfortunately the folder is way to big for uploading it here. - -We added a link to our dropbox, where you can download the folder :) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-automated-injection-molding-machine/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-automated-injection-molding-machine/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 5c1bac8a5..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-automated-injection-molding-machine/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,23 +0,0 @@ -### Download the folder - - Download and read carefully the Guide.pdf. - -Link: - -https://www.dropbox.com/sh/bvus8maneewhxhk/AACpXCwufQSTb2FyYe8HFChFa?dl=0 - -IMPORTANT! The machine is still work in progress and not perfect yet. We added a troubleshooting chapter in the download with details on what has to be improved. - -The Guide.pdf contains the most important informations and gives you an idea how all the info is structured. - -The package contains: - -- CAD -- Bill of material (BOM) -- Blueprints -- Program -- Circuit diagram -- Additional pictures -- ... - -We decided to rather put a little bit more information than to few. So dont be scared when we are going a bit into the details :) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-automated-injection-molding-machine/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-automated-injection-molding-machine/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9dbda3ca2..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-automated-injection-molding-machine/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Check out the design - - Before you consider building this machine, make sure that it is within your capabilities. - -It is much more complex than a normal injection or extrusion machine. - -In the download folder there is a very detailed CAD of the current state :) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-automated-injection-molding-machine/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-automated-injection-molding-machine/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 95533e76f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-automated-injection-molding-machine/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11 +0,0 @@ -### Replicate and do even better;) - - If you want to accept the challenge, then build the machine yourself. - -In this video you see how we can already work with it :) - -https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Eq9IbetsLB4&t=2s - -If you have good Ideas and you made improvements with your machine, please let us know and share back! - -Enjoy, SOTOP-Recycling :) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-hdpe-knife/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-hdpe-knife/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index f50ab5972..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-hdpe-knife/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Make an HDPE Knife - - -We show you how to make this 'reverse knife' (metal scales and plastic blade) using at-home techniques and processes. The knife is 'sharpened' but cannot hold an edge the same way a metal blade can. However it works perfectly fine for cake, fruit and vegetables. A commenter on our YouTube video also said it would be perfect for cutting lettuce as metal knives make the cut edge turn brown quickly! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-hdpe-knife/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-hdpe-knife/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index f6eb214aa..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-hdpe-knife/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Knife Design - - We aimed for a 'santoku' style knife and drew a few different designs out. We actually asked our Instagram followers to pick the one they liked the best! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-hdpe-knife/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-hdpe-knife/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4b610e55d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-hdpe-knife/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Prepare the Plastic and Mould - - Fort this design we wanted a black and white marble effect so we used these bottles (the product is called 'Fortisip') which are white but with a black core. We cut them up into thin strips ready for melting (all the plastic we have stored has already been washed and dried). - -The mould is a simple stacked plywood construction with varnished inner faces to prevent sticking. We don't go into detail about that here but check out our HDPE Stool video on our YouTube channel where we show the mould construction in more detail. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-hdpe-knife/step_10.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-hdpe-knife/step_10.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4b1397e07..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-hdpe-knife/step_10.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Making HDPE Pins - - We wanted the pins to match the blade, so we figured we would try and make out own out of some of the leftover HDPE. We cut a long, thin piece and then used a chisel to take off the corners. We then held this in our drill and used some sandpaper to turn this into a long dowel that we could then cut into pieces for our pins. - -It was the first time we tried this and it worked great! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-hdpe-knife/step_11.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-hdpe-knife/step_11.md deleted file mode 100644 index 6b908b6f4..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-hdpe-knife/step_11.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Fixing the Pins - - We inserted the pins into the handle and used a heat gun to soften the plastic until it could be pressed firmly against a hard surface. This was to get it roughly in place so it didn't matter if it wasn't perfect. Once we had done this for all 3 pins, we gently heated up both sides of each of the 3 pins (being VERY careful not to heat up the plastic blade!) and clamped it as tight as possible in a vice. Remember it will shrink as it cools, so keep tightening it every 5-10 mins! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-hdpe-knife/step_12.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-hdpe-knife/step_12.md deleted file mode 100644 index 26590e6fb..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-hdpe-knife/step_12.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Sand the Pins Flush - - We VERY carefully sanded the pins flush to the surface of the aluminium scales. The low melting temperature of HDPE means that it warps incredibly easily so we kept is cool by dunking it in a bucket of water every few seconds. The pins turned out awesome though! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-hdpe-knife/step_13.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-hdpe-knife/step_13.md deleted file mode 100644 index b5a101889..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-hdpe-knife/step_13.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Final Shaping on the Blade - - We refined the shape of the plastic blade using the belt grinder and spindle sander. We also draw on our bevel line and sanded to this using the belt grinder. - -This was tricky as the plastic turns very 'paper-y' as it gets towards a sharp point. So we didn't try to make it too thin otherwise it could have potentially split on the very edge. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-hdpe-knife/step_14.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-hdpe-knife/step_14.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4218023f1..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-hdpe-knife/step_14.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Final Finishing. - - HDPE finishes really well straight off of a sharp tool. To really bring out the marble effect, we took a razor blade to 'scrape' the surface of the plastic. This left a great finish and required no more sanding. - -To finish the handle we wet sanded up to 2,000 grit with wet and dry paper. We then used a product called Micro Mesh to take it from 2,000 to 20,000 grit which gave it a great finish. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-hdpe-knife/step_15.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-hdpe-knife/step_15.md deleted file mode 100644 index 70a91b222..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-hdpe-knife/step_15.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Test it out! - - We asked our Patrons what they would like to see us cut with the knife and the 2 overwhelming responses were CAKE and A TOMATO! So that's exactly what we did! The blade actually cut them both surprisingly well, however it did struggle to get through the sugary crust on the banana cake (it tasted great though!) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-hdpe-knife/step_16.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-hdpe-knife/step_16.md deleted file mode 100644 index e50da8b54..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-hdpe-knife/step_16.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Watch the Video! - - Most of the images were taken as screen captures from the video we produced. If you want to watch it then it is linked below. Would be great to hear what you think! - -We hope this How-To was helpful! - -Matt & Jonny -Brothers Make \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-hdpe-knife/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-hdpe-knife/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4942cd8b4..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-hdpe-knife/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Melt the HDPE - - We use a flat plate sandwich toaster to melt HDPE. We will occasionally use a small toaster oven as well, but this is mostly for larger melts where we need to keep a bigger mass of plastic hot. For this project we were aiming for around 8mm in thickness for the blade so the sandwich toaster can cope fine on its own. - -When melting, the plastic will shrink a lot so keep adding more every few minutes, taking care not to introduce any air bubbles. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-hdpe-knife/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-hdpe-knife/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8a679b1ec..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-hdpe-knife/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Fold and Twist - - To maximise the marbling effect and to further reduce air bubbles, we like to pick up the plastic so that we can fold and twist it. Be extremely careful whenever handling molten plastic. We wear 2 pairs of gloves when doing this. The outer pair are called 'silicone oven mitts' and are the best gloves we have tried for doing this. - -When folding and twisting be very careful make sure you are not introducing any more bubbles. Once you are happy, put it back in the sandwich toaster (HDPE cools rapidly and it needs to be as hot as possible before transferring to the mould!) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-hdpe-knife/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-hdpe-knife/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 3a9a9f18e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-hdpe-knife/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Press the Sheet - - Once the plastic is hot enough, transfer it into the mould, put on the top plate and get it into the sheet press. We are using our DIY 2-tonne bottle jack press. We also have a video of how to make this on our YouTube channel. - -Leave to cool overnight. The HDPE will shrink as it cools so we like to come back every 5-10 minutes to add more pressure for the first hour or so. That way you will end up with the flattest sheet possible with no warping. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-hdpe-knife/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-hdpe-knife/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index def7292fe..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-hdpe-knife/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### De-Mould and Apply Template - - The sheet often pops right out of the mould but occasionally we need to gently persuade it with some pliers. Once the sheet is out we cut off any flashing (saving to reuse again of course!) and stick on the chosen template design. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-hdpe-knife/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-hdpe-knife/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index b3461a039..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-hdpe-knife/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Cut out the Blade - - We like to use the scroll saw for this as it creates much less waste. Wherever possible we keep as much of the waste produced for future projects. The cut edges gives a glimpse of the marble effect on the blank! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-hdpe-knife/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-hdpe-knife/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index f50aac4cf..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-hdpe-knife/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Start the Aluminium Scales - - We used 8mm aluminium plate for the scales. We traced the template onto the metal and cut out 2 pieces with an angle grinder. We also marked out the 3 hole positions for the pins and centre-punched these. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-hdpe-knife/step_8.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-hdpe-knife/step_8.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4a786516b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-hdpe-knife/step_8.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Drill and Shape the Scales - - We drilled the 3 pin holes and used some brass rod with a small amount of superglue to hold the 2 scales together. This way when we are shaping on our grinder they both come out exactly the same. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-hdpe-knife/step_9.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-hdpe-knife/step_9.md deleted file mode 100644 index 188ef1dfa..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-hdpe-knife/step_9.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Transfer the Holes to the HDPE - - Once we were happy with the shape of the scales, we tapped out the pins and carefully lined up the handles with the plastic blade. This was clamped in position and we then drilled through to get the exact locations onto the plastic. We also added a deep countersink to the outer faces of each of the aluminium scales. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-interlocking-brick/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-interlocking-brick/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 0c00deb05..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-interlocking-brick/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Make an interlocking brick - - -Here we'll show you how to make a brick using the injection machine and the mould we designed in Chiangmai, Thailand. A beautiful, functional model. - -From: BOPE, Thailand \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-interlocking-brick/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-interlocking-brick/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 43b98ee6f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-interlocking-brick/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Get ready - - What you need: Injection machine, mould making tools -This is our workspace in Chiangmai. :) diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-interlocking-brick/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-interlocking-brick/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 6d32f2997..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-interlocking-brick/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Idea and first drawing - - We wanted to develop a product that can have many functions. So we decided to figure out a shape that can be adapted or compliment one another to get a variety of uses. Finally we decided to draw a curved shape. The idea of this shape is to be attached to each other like a Lego. You can use this design as a plant pot or connect it as a partition and build a wall. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-interlocking-brick/step_10.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-interlocking-brick/step_10.md deleted file mode 100644 index 6088f5354..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-interlocking-brick/step_10.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Finish the product - - Last finishes. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-interlocking-brick/step_11.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-interlocking-brick/step_11.md deleted file mode 100644 index c9ab555d7..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-interlocking-brick/step_11.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Explore the possibilities! - - You can use this for Flower Pots. Or You can make more & more for a partition or the wall. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-interlocking-brick/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-interlocking-brick/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 43319f3a1..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-interlocking-brick/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Make the 3D drawing - - First of all, we would like to tell you that our mould design is highly detailed and takes a lot of time to craft. The mould should be made from aluminum with CNC machine. To be easy for you all, please download our mould design above. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-interlocking-brick/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-interlocking-brick/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index c9bc85100..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-interlocking-brick/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Machining the mould - - Using the Sketchup file above to make the mould. We used the CNC Machine from a local manufacturer in Chiangmai. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-interlocking-brick/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-interlocking-brick/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index ad9f9aed4..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-interlocking-brick/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Prepare for injecting - - Tools you need for injecting: -Wrench -Bolt x 8 pieces -Nut x 8 pieces -Bolt & Nut for locking x 1 set -Electric drill -Cutter diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-interlocking-brick/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-interlocking-brick/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index c9fe02e4d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-interlocking-brick/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Prepare your material - - Prepare your shredded plastic. For this product we use PP. For one brick you will need around 300 gram. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-interlocking-brick/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-interlocking-brick/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index 1f0852e26..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-interlocking-brick/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Injection time! - - Turn on the Injection machine (180°C) and wait for it to heat up. -When the temperature is ready, you can put the shredded PP into the Machine. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-interlocking-brick/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-interlocking-brick/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index 93ce003d4..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-interlocking-brick/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Prepare the mould - - While waiting for the plastic to melt, you can assemble the mould. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-interlocking-brick/step_8.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-interlocking-brick/step_8.md deleted file mode 100644 index 912d6079a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-interlocking-brick/step_8.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Press - - When both your machine and the mould are ready, connect the mould to the injection machine. Then press it! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-interlocking-brick/step_9.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-interlocking-brick/step_9.md deleted file mode 100644 index 6d991dd97..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-interlocking-brick/step_9.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Detach the mould - - Wait for the moudl to cool down. Then detach and carefully open the mould to take out your freshly baked recycled plastic brick! -Remove the injection channel with a little scissor or knife \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-under-glass-coaster/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-under-glass-coaster/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8398b5c4b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-under-glass-coaster/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Make an under glass coaster - - -This How-to explains how to create a beautiful under glass coaster from a HDPE sheet (20mm). \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-under-glass-coaster/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-under-glass-coaster/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index d1146934a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-under-glass-coaster/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Cut the squares - - Start by cutting perfect equal squares 10 cm apart. The more precise they are, the more beautiful your coasters will. - -Make sure that you have a plastic sheet thick enough to be able to hollow out the circle that will accommodate the food of the glass. You need about 5 mm so use a sheet of at least 1cm thick \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-under-glass-coaster/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-under-glass-coaster/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 0904ef8ec..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-under-glass-coaster/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Hollow the circle (1) - - Now that you have your squares, you need à lathe machine to do your hollow circles. - -Wedge your square well in the clamping elements and make a first hole in the center of 5 mm deep. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-under-glass-coaster/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-under-glass-coaster/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 1e79a08c8..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-under-glass-coaster/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Hollow the circle (2) - - Now that you have your center hole you can start to do the rest of the circle. - -Make sure to stop digging when you have 5 mm of edge left on each side. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-under-glass-coaster/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-under-glass-coaster/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 38b8c7136..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-under-glass-coaster/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### smooth it out - - With a polishing machine, round the 4 angles and smooth the faces if necessary. - -Also round the edge of the hollow circle \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-under-glass-coaster/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-under-glass-coaster/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 692d82a88..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-an-under-glass-coaster/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Final result - - Now you can drink a glass on a magnificent under glass coaster :) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-angled-beams/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-angled-beams/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 509efdcb8..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-angled-beams/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Make angled beams - - -Beams make great use of the extrusion machine as they can be used for a big variety of objects and purposes. Adding an angle to the mould offers a strong and time saving solution to produce pieces with corners. -Here we will show you how to make the mould. - -To learn the basics about making regular beams first, have a look at the How to “Make a mould for extruding beams†-(https://alpha.onearmy.world/how-to/make-a-mould-for-extruding-beams) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-angled-beams/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-angled-beams/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 1edc660c9..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-angled-beams/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,12 +0,0 @@ -### Gather materials and tools - - To make a beam mould you will need: -- Metal tube (wall thickness preferably 3mm or more) -- Angle iron -- Metal sheet (3mm or more) -- Threaded pipe or fitting (BSPT size of your nozzle) -- Angle grinder or metal saw -- Welding machine -- File -- Drill -- M8 or M10 nuts and bolts diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-angled-beams/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-angled-beams/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7ec8d555e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-angled-beams/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Cut tubes - - In this technique you cut the mould in the same way as you would cut beams for a mitre joint: i.e. if you want an angle of 90° for your beam, make two 45° cuts. -Once you know which one you need, it’s time to cut your metal tubes to your desired angle. It’s important to make the cut as clean and straight as possible to avoid big gaps when the mould is assembled. Finish up your cuts with a file to ensure your edges are smooth for the next steps to come. - -Tip: Consider where the weld seam is on your piece of metal tube as it will l leave a mark on your plastic beam. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-angled-beams/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-angled-beams/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index d536abafb..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-angled-beams/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Make connecting brackets - - Now we will need brackets to connect the two tube pieces with each other as well as the mould to the mounting plate. -(This is where you’ll be thanking yourself if you already prepared extra ones in earlier mould productions.) - -All you need to do is cut your angle iron into sections of 30-40 mm and drill a hole in one side to fit your bolts. For larger beams use bigger, thicker angle iron. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-angled-beams/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-angled-beams/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 32bf40baf..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-angled-beams/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Cut a mounting plate - - To connect the mould to the nozzle, we need a mounting plate. If you don’t have a fitting size handy, cut a metal sheet to a size that will fit your beam mould as well as the brackets you prepared in Step 3, and drill the holes for your brackets. - -Tip: Use a tube offcut from Step 2 to plan the position of your brackets and their holes. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-angled-beams/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-angled-beams/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 047a313ac..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-angled-beams/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Weld mounting brackets - - With your parts cut and ready, it’s time to weld. -As described in Step 5 of Make a mould for extruding beams, weld together the brackets to the beam mould and the nozzle to the mounting plate. - -To the attach the brackets that will hold together the two parts of the angled beam, lay both parts on a flat surface and plan where you want the brackets to sit. It can be helpful to start with the brackets bolted together and overlay one side (as shown on the image), so that they can function as an alignment. -Once everything sits in the right position, tack the brackets to the beam and repeat the process on the other side. Once all your parts are tacked into position, weld it all up! -Tip: By aligning the brackets with the angle of your cut, and adding a bit of space between the brackets you can achieve a well sealed joint. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-angled-beams/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-angled-beams/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index c38b3791c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-angled-beams/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Make it ready to extrude - - Alright, your mould is basically ready to go. Bolt it all together and have a look inside to make sure that there are no large gaps. -Then you can start shooting that plastic inside! - -Tip for extruding: Stop your plastic before it erupts out the end. If there is too much plastic overflowing, it will be hard to demould later. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-angled-beams/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-angled-beams/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index 5cd1c448b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-angled-beams/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Explore new possibilities - - This technique opens up a new world of possibilities. It can be especially valuable in cases when being used instead of joining two pieces with a screw or another mechanism. Saves time and materials, and enables an easier disassembly and recyclability. :) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-beam-jewelry--key-rings/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-beam-jewelry--key-rings/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index bc745da89..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-beam-jewelry--key-rings/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Make beam jewelry / key rings - - -This how to explain the simple process of polishing a piece of PS BEAMS to a shining and beautiful jewelry or key ring! You will need for this a machine to cut slice of the beames and then different polishing grains. It is better to have an electric polishing machine.. you will get better result with the transparency and the shine :-) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-beam-jewelry--key-rings/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-beam-jewelry--key-rings/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 50e058af8..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-beam-jewelry--key-rings/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Cut the beames - - The first step is to cut the beams, you can cut slices or little blocks as you want. Slices are better for earrings or necklaces and little blocks are better for key ring. Be sure to cut a slice a little thicker than the desired final thickness because when you polish it will become thinner. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-beam-jewelry--key-rings/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-beam-jewelry--key-rings/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 13e72a703..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-beam-jewelry--key-rings/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Sculpt the slice - - Step 2 will be to sculpt the slice to obtain the desired shape. You can sculpt it with an electric polishing machine or with different idea, it is up to you :-) I will sculpt it in a round shape to do earrings. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-beam-jewelry--key-rings/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-beam-jewelry--key-rings/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index be7377ee5..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-beam-jewelry--key-rings/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Polishing step - - Now that you have your shape, you can start polish it. Make sure you start with the thickest grain and end with the finer grain. The thinner it is, the smoother and more transparent the surface will become. Dont forget to do polish the edges as well so that they are rounded and soft to the touch \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-beam-jewelry--key-rings/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-beam-jewelry--key-rings/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index ee84c4541..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-beam-jewelry--key-rings/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Finishes step - - Ok now you have your little pebble smooth to the touch and almost transparent and shining. The last step is to polish it with cotton, so for that you will have to use patinas on your cotton. it will give you a great shining and a perfect transparency. -You have now your earrings (or necklace or key ring) ends! -All you have to do next is make small holes in it to pass your accessories, I use a screwdriver with a small metal bit. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-beam-jewelry--key-rings/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-beam-jewelry--key-rings/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index b1d51eec6..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-beam-jewelry--key-rings/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Final result - - This if a few exemple of what you can do and how it will look when its completely done :-) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-bike-pedals--grips/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-bike-pedals--grips/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 988bdbd3a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-bike-pedals--grips/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Make Bike Pedals & Grips - - -In this How-To I describe how I made the mold. -Injecting the pedal is fast but making the mold takes time. I suggest you to mill the mold if you have the possibility because I welded the mold and this is time consuming. You can download the 3D model and make your own version. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-bike-pedals--grips/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-bike-pedals--grips/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index d07d78b99..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-bike-pedals--grips/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,20 +0,0 @@ -### Tools - - - Injection machine -- angle grinder (cutting and grinding discs) -- vise -- flat file, round file (opional: small grinder rotary tool like Proxxon or Dremel) -- drill press -- clamps (at leaste 3) -- welding machine (only for pedals) & welding clothes -- radius scriber (a marker works well too) -- protection glasses -- respirator with A1 P1 filter (hot plastic fumes and particles filter) -- safety gloves -- ear protection -- sanding paper (grit size around 80) (optional: electric sander) -- measuring tape -- square edge -- M6, M8 thread tap -- drill bit 4.3; 6.4; 6.8; 8.4; 11; 20 ; 22.5 mm (if you don't have the 22.5, use your round file like I did) -- tweezers (optional, for ball bearings assembly) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-bike-pedals--grips/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-bike-pedals--grips/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 60e48d4b7..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-bike-pedals--grips/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,14 +0,0 @@ -### Material for the grips - - Plastic waste: I made experiments with polystyrene (PS) and polyethylene (PE). PS looks more strong but I had only black one so the presented objects are made of PE. The pedal volume is 145 cm^3 and the grip 84 cm^3. - -For the grips: - -- metal tube (internal diameter = diameter you want for the grips, big ones are more comfortable. I chose 35mm. Lenght = lenght you want for the two grips - 3 mm. I have 2 x 130 mm so my grips are 127 leght) -- metal sheet (steel 4 mm thick; 180 x 60 mm) -- threaded rod (M6 x 450; M8 x 150 mm) -- 6 nuts M6 -- metal cylinder (diameter 22.3 length 111 mm) (standard handlebar have diameter 22 mm so take just a little bit more) -- 1 bolt M8 x 20 -- 1 washer M20 -- 1 nut M8 \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-bike-pedals--grips/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-bike-pedals--grips/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 381746dca..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-bike-pedals--grips/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Material for the pedals - - - metal sheet (steel 4mm thick; 120 x 240; 26 x 700 mm) -- welding rod (2 or 3 mm) -- 3 bolts M6 x 10 (any size would works but you need the corresponding drill bits) -- 2 pedal axles with ball bearings, washers and nuts -- wood (for positioning during welding, optional) (pedal size) -- 4 bolts and nuts M4 x 40 (only length matter) -- 24 setscrews M6 x 8 \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-bike-pedals--grips/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-bike-pedals--grips/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index f1550b1a8..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-bike-pedals--grips/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,12 +0,0 @@ -### Grip mold: cut the parts - - Cut the tube at the length you want for your grips (mine are 130 mm). -Cut four hexagones with side length 33 mm. -In each of them, drill three holes in the corners. -In the first one, drill another hexagone with 10 mm side length in the center. -In the second one, drill a 5 mm hole in the center. -In the third one, drill a 22.5 mm hole in the center. -In the fourth one, drill a 8 mm hole in the center. -Cut three M5 and one M8 threaded rods at 150 mm. -Cut the cylinder at the length you want (111 mm for me). -Make a M8 x 20 threaded hole at the center of one cylinder side. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-bike-pedals--grips/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-bike-pedals--grips/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 86dd452c8..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-bike-pedals--grips/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11 +0,0 @@ -### Pedal mold: cut the parts - - Cut two squares 120 x 120 mm in the metal sheet. -Make holes in the four corners (4.3 mm in my case). -Scribe the pedal shape on one square face. -Drill the injection hole where you want it(I chose diameter 5, in the center). -Cut a band of 26 mm height and at least 300 length and another of 26 (precisely) x 340 (at least). -Cut the 300 band in 15.6 (2x); 24 (2x); 18 (2x); 33 (2x); 25 (2x); 43.4 (1x). -Cut the 340 band in 40 (2x); 56 (4x); 27.7 (1x). -Cut also six small pieces in order to wedge the mold part together (5 x 10 mm). -Cut three more to make the triangle and trapeze center (25 x 7 (2x); 4 x 35 (1x)). \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-bike-pedals--grips/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-bike-pedals--grips/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index dde09a538..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-bike-pedals--grips/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Make the Pedal Mold: Weld It - - Before welding you need to add an angle (around 2 degrees) on each vertical face of the wooden parts (triangle, trapezes and pedal). This will ease the extracting process. I accomplished this with the sanding machine. - -Weld the pedal perimeter: Clamp the wooden pedal on your welding surface and clamp the edges you want to weld (cf. picture). Continue with the other parts always ensuring that your parts are well against the ground. It was my first arc welding job and you can notice the poor result but it doesn't matter, it just extend the grinding time. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-bike-pedals--grips/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-bike-pedals--grips/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index 27ba191b4..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-bike-pedals--grips/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,15 +0,0 @@ -### Inject the Grips - - Turn the heater on. -Assemble the cylinder with the basis hexagon (Nbr. 4). -Add the three threaded rod. -Add the washer around the cylinder. -Add the tube. -Add the top hexagon with the injecting hole (Nbr. 2). -Add the top hexagon with the hexagonal hole (Nbr. 1). -Secure it with the nuts. -Start filling the machine with plastic. -Wait 5 min. -inject. - -Remove the grip using the M8 threaded rod and nut. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-bike-pedals--grips/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-bike-pedals--grips/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index 1823d4fe3..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-bike-pedals--grips/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Inject the Pedals - - Heat the machine. -Fill with old plastic. -Inject. -Open the mold. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-bike-pedals--grips/step_8.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-bike-pedals--grips/step_8.md deleted file mode 100644 index c79779b7d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-bike-pedals--grips/step_8.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Finish and Assembly - - Secure the pedal in the jig. -Mount the 11 mm drill bit and align it with the pedal center. -Secure the jig to the drill. -Drill through all the pedal. -Mount the 20mm drill bit. -Drill the bike side of the pedal 8 mm depth. -Flip the pedal. -Drill the outer part of the pedal 15 mm depth (measured from the flat face, not the top triangle). \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-blueprints-in-freecad/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-blueprints-in-freecad/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index aacb48466..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-blueprints-in-freecad/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Make Blueprints in FreeCAD - - -Whether you're making moulds, building machines or other work making Blueprints is a key tool to communicate your ideas to builders, colleagues and manufacturers. FreeCAD is an amazing bit of free open source software to make 3d models and much more that is available on all platforms. It has a Blueprint feature built in and this How-Tt will show you how to use it to make Blueprints of your own! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-blueprints-in-freecad/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-blueprints-in-freecad/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7232fd878..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-blueprints-in-freecad/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Download FreeCAD - - -Go to https://www.freecadweb.org/downloads.php and select the distribution you need for your operating system --Follow the instructions for the installation guide \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-blueprints-in-freecad/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-blueprints-in-freecad/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index e2e498a4d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-blueprints-in-freecad/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Import 3D Model - - -We took this model from the starter kit but you can also use a part that you have designed yourself in FreeCAD --Create a new empty document by clicking the new document button in the menu --Click File > Import then select the file you wish to use \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-blueprints-in-freecad/step_10.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-blueprints-in-freecad/step_10.md deleted file mode 100644 index 80193cd62..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-blueprints-in-freecad/step_10.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Cleanup - - -As this is open source work we will need to remove the default text from the template --While we're at it we can also remove the details table on the right hand side --We done this by using a blank white .png file and using it as a mask --Select the "Insert Bitmap from file" button and use the masks provided in this tutorial - -You'll need to put it in the right position & adjust for the size - -This is done by adjusting the parameters after clicking it in the left hand panel \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-blueprints-in-freecad/step_11.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-blueprints-in-freecad/step_11.md deleted file mode 100644 index f05bacdaf..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-blueprints-in-freecad/step_11.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Add the license - - -We will fill in the license of the starter kit and we need to note what was done for this blueprint --We added it by using another annotation as shown before \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-blueprints-in-freecad/step_12.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-blueprints-in-freecad/step_12.md deleted file mode 100644 index 77a77b645..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-blueprints-in-freecad/step_12.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Export - - -There are many file formats that you can export to such as SVG, DXF & PDF --SVG & DXF formats have their own buttons that you can click in the top menu --If you wish to export to PDF just right click anywhere on the page and click "Export PDF" --Save it somewhere you will find it later \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-blueprints-in-freecad/step_13.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-blueprints-in-freecad/step_13.md deleted file mode 100644 index 1d66eede1..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-blueprints-in-freecad/step_13.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,16 +0,0 @@ -### Spread the Love - - -Open source is not Open source if you don't share the source & files --You can put it on GitHub or other places like GitLab as well --Feel free to share your work with us on our social media - -At Darigov Research we specialise in open source hardware, software and education to help people tackle global issues in their local community. - -If you wish to support us in the work that we do consider donating or joining us on Patreon - -Donate - https://www.darigovresearch.com/donate -Patreon - https://www.patreon.com/darigovresearch - -Website - https://www.darigovresearch.com/ -Youtube Channel – https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCb34hWA6u2Lif92aljhV4HA -Twitter, GitHub, Instagram - @​​​​darigovresearch \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-blueprints-in-freecad/step_14.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-blueprints-in-freecad/step_14.md deleted file mode 100644 index 01d416200..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-blueprints-in-freecad/step_14.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Get Started - - We've been building Precious Plastic machines since V2 of the machines so we're very passionate about the great work that has been done so far and where this community will grow to! - -If you're interested in purchasing a machine or interested in inquiring about our services for any research and development purposes do take a look at the products we are selling on the Bazar or message us directly! - -https://bazar.preciousplastic.com/darigov-research-limited/ \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-blueprints-in-freecad/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-blueprints-in-freecad/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 991784e9a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-blueprints-in-freecad/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Select the TechDraw Workspace - - -FreeCAD has various workspaces which has different buttons and are used for different use cases --The one we need is the TechDraw workspace as it is used for create --All you need to to do is select it from the dropdown at the top of the application \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-blueprints-in-freecad/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-blueprints-in-freecad/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 5014d28ed..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-blueprints-in-freecad/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Generate a blank template - - -FreeCAD already comes prepared with various Blueprint sizes and standards --You can select it by clicking the folder icon in the TechDraw workspace and select the type --Or you can select the default one by clicking the "Insert new default Page" button in the TechDraw workspace --You can also make your own as it takes an SVG format so you can adapt it to your needs \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-blueprints-in-freecad/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-blueprints-in-freecad/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4a97a7914..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-blueprints-in-freecad/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Import perspective view - - -Select the item you wish to do a blueprint of in the view by left clicking the item --Then holding CTRL & clicking on the page in the side menu --Click on the "Insert Projection View" button --Open the Page and you will see the drawing in the page by --You can adjust the rotation, scaling & which views are visible from the side menu --Click "OK" in the task menu to confirm your choice --If it's not updating click the refresh button in the top menu --The good thing about doing it this was is that the blueprint and any dimensions you add should update if you update the base model \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-blueprints-in-freecad/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-blueprints-in-freecad/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 0ecfb3d42..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-blueprints-in-freecad/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Add Linear Dimensions - - -Select two points by holding CTRL and clicking on the two points you need --Click the horizontal or vertical dimension buttons & adjust location of the dimension to your needs --Adjust the location so the dimension is legible --Repeat till all relevant information is present \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-blueprints-in-freecad/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-blueprints-in-freecad/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index 063e763da..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-blueprints-in-freecad/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Add Diameter Dimensions - - -Select the circle you wish to add a diameter to --Click on the Diameter dimension button --Adjust the location so the dimension is legible --Repeat for all circles in your drawing \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-blueprints-in-freecad/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-blueprints-in-freecad/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index 24bc2e45a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-blueprints-in-freecad/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Add Angle Dimensions - - -Click the "Insert Annotation" button in the TechDraw workspace --You can adjust the text & text size in the left hand panel --We have added the names of each of the views as the frame titles are not visible on export \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-blueprints-in-freecad/step_8.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-blueprints-in-freecad/step_8.md deleted file mode 100644 index dd1371908..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-blueprints-in-freecad/step_8.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Add Annotations - - -Click the "Insert Annotation" button in the TechDraw workspace --You can adjust the text & text size in the left hand panel --We have added the names of each of the views as the frame titles are not visible on export diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-blueprints-in-freecad/step_9.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-blueprints-in-freecad/step_9.md deleted file mode 100644 index bbe7af57c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-blueprints-in-freecad/step_9.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,13 +0,0 @@ -### Add Blueprint Details - - -There is always a section in blueprints explaining the details of the drawing --You can see by the green boxes what is editable in the template --Click the green box within each section and it will open a modal window for you to fill in the text - -Don't forget to add --Who made it --When it was made --What the dimensions of the notations are --What the scale of the view is --What version number it is --If there are multiple sheets explaining the file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-buttons-from-ocean-rope/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-buttons-from-ocean-rope/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7e74731b6..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-buttons-from-ocean-rope/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Make buttons from Ocean Rope - - -As a coastal Precious Plastic workshop it's not a surprise to us that some of our prototyping focuses on plastics collected on Norfolk beach cleans. Ocean rope is a common find for beach cleaners around the 100 miles of Norfolk coastline and was one of our earliest experiments manufacturing from beach finds. - -We pick out the rope from local finds that carries the characteristics of polypropylene rope... ropes that aren't stretchy, are often brittle and crunchy to the touch and commonly a light aqua blue. We're sharing this video on World Ocean Day because as a coastal workshop we feel a particular responsibility for removing plastic from the ocean and turn into things that should never be in the sea again. Plastic isn't the solution for future plastic, to tackle future plastic production we need significant curbs on production. Our work focuses on education and recycling existing plastic while campaigning for more robust policy to reduce production at the source. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-buttons-from-ocean-rope/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-buttons-from-ocean-rope/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index e00475a26..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-buttons-from-ocean-rope/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Source some ocean rope - - A potentially obvious step, but one we thought it was worth mentioning all the same. When we were approached by beach clean groups in Norfolk they were desperate to find somewhere to donate their plastics to avoid them going into landfill or being incinerated. We have worked with Norfolk beach clean groups for over 12 months now and they pick up a lot of rope from the Norfolk coastline every month. - -If you're in a coastal location, reach out to any organised groups that you can find. They're likely to welcome the opportunity of having their plastic recycled, because they're generally people who have a very deep love and sense of responsibility for marine conservation and ensuring litter doesn't end up in the wrong place. - -If you're not a coastal Precious Plastic workshop then it could be worth seeking out beach clean groups in other parts of the country as a source, though we'd be inclined to encourage you to find plastics that are local to you. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-buttons-from-ocean-rope/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-buttons-from-ocean-rope/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index f66e1a19d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-buttons-from-ocean-rope/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Sort and inspect your rope - - Sorting and inspecting your rope is an important step ahead of cleaning. At this step you're looking to identify the polypropylene (PP) rope and remove anything like duct tape, zip ties or alike that are attached to the rope and won't be removed by cleaning. - -Identifying polypropylene (PP) ocean rope is relatively easy though not a guarantee of a correct material identification. Polypropylene (PP) ropes are clearly plastic, with some characteristic features that when followed we find to provide us with enough rope and up until now has always avoided contamination. We look for ropes that aren't stretchy, are often brittle and crunchy to the touch and commonly a light aqua blue. We've found that ocean rope is also commonly black, or yellow and white, though we find the light blue is easiest to identify. - -Remove anything like duct tape, zip ties or alike that are attached to the rope using scissors. General dirt will be removed by the cleaning step that comes next. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-buttons-from-ocean-rope/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-buttons-from-ocean-rope/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 362e3cc75..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-buttons-from-ocean-rope/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Clean and dry the rope - - Cleaning and drying the rope is straightforward enough. We use a laundry bag, a washing machine and an airing cupboard. Ideally the washing machine would be part of a circular system that filters the waste water before feeding it back into the machine to avoid microplastics escaping. - -We use a regular 40 degree centigrade (104 degrees fahrenheit) with an unfragranced detergent. - -Our approach to drying the plastic again makes use of regular household or workshop features. We tend to leave the rope in the laundry bag and place the bag in either an airing cupboard overnight or on a windowsill on a sunny day. In our experience after an afternoon or a night in one of these spots the rope should feel dry. If not, rearrange the rope so that different pieces are on top and leave it for a further afternoon or evening. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-buttons-from-ocean-rope/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-buttons-from-ocean-rope/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 79d6f646e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-buttons-from-ocean-rope/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Shred your rope - - We've found shredding ocean rope to be a completely different experience to shredding a hard plastic like a DVD case or a soft drink bottle lid. Some of the ocean rope we've received from beach cleans has been as thick as 36mm, so we decided to use our bigger commercial shredder rather than our smaller Precious Plastic shredder. We'd recommend that you review the thickness of the rope you're looking to shred and the power of your shredder and act accordingly. - -The other observation we made when shredding rope is that only a small amount of it falls through to the collection bin under the blades. It may be that if we'd shredded our rope for longer this would have been different. We'd be curious to hear other experiences from the Precious Plastic community. So we shredded our rope for a shorter period, collected the shredded rope from the collection bin underneath and then carefully removed the shredded rope from the shredder with gloves after unplugging the machine. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-buttons-from-ocean-rope/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-buttons-from-ocean-rope/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 36b60d47f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-buttons-from-ocean-rope/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Select your mould and machine and apply heat - - Now that you have your material ready for manufacture, it's time to select your mould and machines. -We use our Sustainable Design Studio large button mould with our ocean rope, heating the mould in a mini oven before use. This time when we used our mould we spotted a very light area of corrosion on the inner face of the mould which we removed with a very fine sand paper. - -Put your PPE on, we're using a double charcoal activated face mask and heat resistant gloves. Ventilate your space. Sometime we use a fume extractor for this though when shouting this video we were able to open the double doors of our workshop space to create an air flow. Heat your mini oven to your desired temperature. We chose to heat our mini over and our mould to 200 degrees centigrade (390 degrees Fahrenheit). \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-buttons-from-ocean-rope/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-buttons-from-ocean-rope/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index bc7161c20..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-buttons-from-ocean-rope/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Prepare the Arbour Press for use - - Set up your Arbour Press or injection moulding machine in a clear ventilated space on a firm surface and switch on. -We're running our Arbour Press at 265 degrees centigrade (500 degrees Fahrenheit). - -Loading your injection moulder with shredded rope is different to loading it with shredded hard plastics like shredded DVD cases or soft drink bottle lids. Rather than pouring granules into the hopper the shredded rope needs more careful introduction to the machine. Wearing heat resistant gloves we drop shredded rope into the hopper and then using a metal rod start guiding it into the chamber. The final step is the use the shaft of the Arbour Press to move it down into the body of the Arbour Press ready for injecting. - -When preparing the press for the first injection of the day we leave the Arbour Press for a good 20 minutes once the plastic is in and the temperature is settling down. Shredded rope could easily have more air held within it than shredded hard plastics. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-buttons-from-ocean-rope/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-buttons-from-ocean-rope/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index f880552d0..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-buttons-from-ocean-rope/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Mould your ocean rope buttons - - Once the mould is up to temperature and the Arbour Press has settled with its ocean rope ready for deliver into the mould, remove the mould from the mini oven. Ensuring there is space on the work bench to place the mould once it's full and space to move safely around the Arbour Press lower the jack, control the flow of molten plastic and place the mould under the nozzle. When ready engage the mould with the nozzle of the Arbour Press and apply pressure to inject the plastic into the mould. - -At this point we find it important to be really observant of the mould and the pressure in the level that's delivering the molten plastic. When using this mould on this occasion we observed a small amount of condensation leave the mould mid injection and a firm piece of resistance once the mould was full. - -We released a bit of pressure on the level that delivers the molten plastic, dropped the mould on the jack and places the full mould onto the workbench, checking the Arbour Press could be left. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-buttons-from-ocean-rope/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-buttons-from-ocean-rope/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2e83c7ed9..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-buttons-from-ocean-rope/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Opening the mould and finishing your buttons - - During this final step we try to manage our anticipation and stay present in our process. We review the state of the plastic inside the mould based on any visible plastic at the point where the nozzle injected it. This generally means we leave the mould for a few minutes before starting the take the steps to open it. - -Wearing gloves to protect against the heat, and injury on the mould should the spanner slip, we carefully remove the bolts holding the mould together. Laying the mould on the workbench we use a tool to prise the mould open. - -Sometimes the buttons are easily removed. Sometimes there are buttons clinging more firmly to the mould where the plastic has cooled and shrink around mould elements. If you're going to lever the buttons out of the mould, do it would great care as any scratches made on the buttons aren't easy to remove. We try to lever stubborn buttons our with any remaining sprue and a small flat head screwdriver. Finish buttons by trimming off any mould marks. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-christmas-ornaments-from-bottle-caps/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-christmas-ornaments-from-bottle-caps/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index fc3c56f14..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-christmas-ornaments-from-bottle-caps/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,16 +0,0 @@ -### Make Christmas Ornaments from Bottle Caps - - -Turn your plastic waste into some cute Christmas Ornaments that you can use for decoration or to hang on your gifts. Let`s make Christmas less trashy! - -What you will need: - -- Bottle caps -- A panini press with a flat surface -- Silicone gloves -- Baking paper -- Eye protection -- Respiration mask -- a fret saw (manual or electrical) -- sharp knife or razor blade -- cookie cutters or paper stencil \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-christmas-ornaments-from-bottle-caps/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-christmas-ornaments-from-bottle-caps/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index d6664994c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-christmas-ornaments-from-bottle-caps/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Sort your bottle caps - - First you need to sort your bottle caps to make sure they are all the same kind of plastic. You can use either a batch of HDPE or PP bottle caps. You can usually find the recycling category on the inside of the bottle cap: number 2 for HDPE and number 5 for PP. - -If they are not labeled, you can also identify them by squeezing them a bit. You will notice that HDPE caps are a bit more flexible and PP are a bit more rigid. Caps from milk jugs are usually made from HDPE whereas some caps for soda bottle are sometimes PP. If in doubt, through it out! Otherwise, you risk to contaminate your batch. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-christmas-ornaments-from-bottle-caps/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-christmas-ornaments-from-bottle-caps/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 1159e5d4e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-christmas-ornaments-from-bottle-caps/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Wash your bottle caps - - Once sorted, you need to wash the caps that you want to use. You can either soak them in a sink and clean them manually with a brush. If you plan to recycle quite a lot of caps, it will be more efficient to put them into a clothes bag and throw them into the washing machine, choosing a short washing cycle. Let them dry completely and you are ready for the next step. - -Also, think about what colors you want your ornaments to be. We chose red and white as base colors and added some green highlights to give the ornaments a Christmassy touch. But of course, it`s totally up to you what color you like your ornaments to be – and up to what colors you may have available. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-christmas-ornaments-from-bottle-caps/step_10.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-christmas-ornaments-from-bottle-caps/step_10.md deleted file mode 100644 index 39caa187c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-christmas-ornaments-from-bottle-caps/step_10.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Drill a hole and add a string - - You are nearly ready now. Just drill a small hole into the top of your ornament so you can add a string. The size of the hole depends on the thickness of your string. - -We re-used strings that we had collected over the past years. That way, your Christmas ornaments are 100% upcycled and zero new materials were needed to create them. - -That`s it, your ornaments are ready. Well done and congratulations to help cut down on the trash that is produced during Christmas time. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-christmas-ornaments-from-bottle-caps/step_11.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-christmas-ornaments-from-bottle-caps/step_11.md deleted file mode 100644 index 61c0f86ac..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-christmas-ornaments-from-bottle-caps/step_11.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Gift the ornament to a friend - - This step is optional, of course. By gifting your cute upcycled ornaments to friends or family, you can help to spread the important message that it`s not necessary to buy new things to decorate for Christmas. By making ornaments from bottle caps, you make great use of a precious material that would otherwise be burnt or end up in a land fill. And you create a hand made ornament that was crafted with love and care for our planet. - -Merry Christmas, -Maria & Nike from IN MOCEAN diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-christmas-ornaments-from-bottle-caps/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-christmas-ornaments-from-bottle-caps/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index a92fd0a82..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-christmas-ornaments-from-bottle-caps/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### First layer of bottle caps - - Plug in your panini press and let it heat up. Make sure you are using one with a flat surface in order to get a flat plastic sheet for your ornaments. Once the panini press is hot, place a baking sheet on the press. We usually work with Teflon baking sheets because you can reuse them more often and they don`t tear apart. - -Now place your bottle caps on the panini press. It does not matter which way round you place them, they will melt just the same. Now cover the bottle caps with a second baking sheet and close the panini press. - -It helps the melting process, if you place something heavy on top of the panini press. This can be some bricks or heavy books, whatever you may have available. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-christmas-ornaments-from-bottle-caps/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-christmas-ornaments-from-bottle-caps/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index ab5eb9b27..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-christmas-ornaments-from-bottle-caps/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Second or third layer - - Once your bottle caps are melted, you can add one or two more layers on top of it in the same way you did in Step 2. This depends a bit on how thick you want your ornaments to be. We went for 3 to 4mm thickness for the plastic sheet. You will need to melt 2 to 4 layers of bottle caps for that, depending a bit on the size of your caps. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-christmas-ornaments-from-bottle-caps/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-christmas-ornaments-from-bottle-caps/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index ae62114fa..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-christmas-ornaments-from-bottle-caps/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Create a beautiful batik desig - - Now you should have a layer of melted bottle caps. You can either use the sheet right away or you can create a pretty batik design. To create that, put on some silicone gloves, roll the warm plastic into a sausage and then twist it around. This step is totally up to your own creativity. You can pull the warm plastic to stretch it, then fold it together and twist it again until you reach your desired design. -If the plastic hardens in the process, you can always re-heat it in the press to make it moldable again. - -Now you have a lump of plastic that needs to be melted again in order to make a flat sheet from it. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-christmas-ornaments-from-bottle-caps/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-christmas-ornaments-from-bottle-caps/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4895c5a06..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-christmas-ornaments-from-bottle-caps/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Make a flat sheet - - Place the plastic lump inside the panini press and heat it up. Once the plastic starts to get soft, you can start applying pressure to the panini press again. We found that it helps to sit on top of it (careful not to burn yourself) and wiggle around a bit to make sure the plastic stretches out far enough. - -You can also remove the plastic from the press and use a rolling pin, but we found that sitting on top of the press works much better because you are not removing the plastic from the heat source. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-christmas-ornaments-from-bottle-caps/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-christmas-ornaments-from-bottle-caps/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index fbcbe60de..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-christmas-ornaments-from-bottle-caps/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Let it cool down - - Open the press every now and then to check if you have reached the desired thickness of the sheet. Once it`s to your liking, switch off the press and let the sheet cool down. Make sure to leave something heavy on top of the press, otherwise your plastic will deform in the cooling process. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-christmas-ornaments-from-bottle-caps/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-christmas-ornaments-from-bottle-caps/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index c6ee2b49b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-christmas-ornaments-from-bottle-caps/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Draw your ornaments onto sheet - - Once your sheet has cooled down, it`s time to get creative. Grab a pen that writes on plastic and draw your ornaments on the plastic sheet. We used cookie cutters for some of them but we also made some stencils from paper. - -When choosing your design, try to think about the sawing process: the more difficult or filigree your design is, the harder it will be to cut it out. Maybe start with something simple and then work your way towards more complicated designs. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-christmas-ornaments-from-bottle-caps/step_8.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-christmas-ornaments-from-bottle-caps/step_8.md deleted file mode 100644 index f6474feed..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-christmas-ornaments-from-bottle-caps/step_8.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Cut out the ornaments - - Now it`s time to cut. For this step, you need a fretsaw. This can be a manual one or an electrical one, both work. We used an electrical one because it makes the process a little easier. But it`s also possible with a manual one, you just need a bit more patience. -Move the saw along the lines that you drew on the plastic sheet and voilà: you have your Christmas Ornament. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-christmas-ornaments-from-bottle-caps/step_9.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-christmas-ornaments-from-bottle-caps/step_9.md deleted file mode 100644 index 914d9b0e0..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-christmas-ornaments-from-bottle-caps/step_9.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Clean the edges - - Use a sharp knife or razor blade to clean the edges of your ornament. We found that this works better than using sanding paper and it also produces less micro plastic. - -Remember: You don`t want to create additional pollution with your crafting, so make sure you always collect all the little plastic pieces that get cut off during your creative process. The great thing: you can throw them back on the panini press for your next batch! diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-christmas-ornaments-from-upcycled-bottle-caps/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-christmas-ornaments-from-upcycled-bottle-caps/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 374af440e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-christmas-ornaments-from-upcycled-bottle-caps/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,16 +0,0 @@ -### Make christmas ornaments from upcycled bottle caps - - -Turn your plastic waste into some cute Christmas Ornaments that you can use for decoration or to hang on your gifts. Let`s make Christmas less trashy! - -What you will need: - -- Bottle caps -- A panini press with a flat surface -- Silicone gloves -- Baking paper -- Eye protection -- Respiration mask -- a fret saw (manual or electrical) -- sharp knife or razor blade -- cookie cutters or paper stencil \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-christmas-ornaments-from-upcycled-bottle-caps/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-christmas-ornaments-from-upcycled-bottle-caps/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index d6664994c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-christmas-ornaments-from-upcycled-bottle-caps/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Sort your bottle caps - - First you need to sort your bottle caps to make sure they are all the same kind of plastic. You can use either a batch of HDPE or PP bottle caps. You can usually find the recycling category on the inside of the bottle cap: number 2 for HDPE and number 5 for PP. - -If they are not labeled, you can also identify them by squeezing them a bit. You will notice that HDPE caps are a bit more flexible and PP are a bit more rigid. Caps from milk jugs are usually made from HDPE whereas some caps for soda bottle are sometimes PP. If in doubt, through it out! Otherwise, you risk to contaminate your batch. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-christmas-ornaments-from-upcycled-bottle-caps/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-christmas-ornaments-from-upcycled-bottle-caps/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 1159e5d4e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-christmas-ornaments-from-upcycled-bottle-caps/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Wash your bottle caps - - Once sorted, you need to wash the caps that you want to use. You can either soak them in a sink and clean them manually with a brush. If you plan to recycle quite a lot of caps, it will be more efficient to put them into a clothes bag and throw them into the washing machine, choosing a short washing cycle. Let them dry completely and you are ready for the next step. - -Also, think about what colors you want your ornaments to be. We chose red and white as base colors and added some green highlights to give the ornaments a Christmassy touch. But of course, it`s totally up to you what color you like your ornaments to be – and up to what colors you may have available. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-christmas-ornaments-from-upcycled-bottle-caps/step_10.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-christmas-ornaments-from-upcycled-bottle-caps/step_10.md deleted file mode 100644 index 39caa187c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-christmas-ornaments-from-upcycled-bottle-caps/step_10.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Drill a hole and add a string - - You are nearly ready now. Just drill a small hole into the top of your ornament so you can add a string. The size of the hole depends on the thickness of your string. - -We re-used strings that we had collected over the past years. That way, your Christmas ornaments are 100% upcycled and zero new materials were needed to create them. - -That`s it, your ornaments are ready. Well done and congratulations to help cut down on the trash that is produced during Christmas time. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-christmas-ornaments-from-upcycled-bottle-caps/step_11.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-christmas-ornaments-from-upcycled-bottle-caps/step_11.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8ac25db15..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-christmas-ornaments-from-upcycled-bottle-caps/step_11.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Gift the ornament to a friend - - This step is optional, of course. By gifting your cute upcycled ornaments to friends or family, you can help to spread the important message that it`s not necessary to buy new things to decorate for Christmas. By making ornaments from bottle caps, you make great use of a precious material that would otherwise be burnt or end up in a land fill. And you create a hand made ornament that was crafted with love and care for our planet. - -Merry Christmas, -Maria & Nike from IN MOCEAN -in-mocean.org \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-christmas-ornaments-from-upcycled-bottle-caps/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-christmas-ornaments-from-upcycled-bottle-caps/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index a92fd0a82..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-christmas-ornaments-from-upcycled-bottle-caps/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### First layer of bottle caps - - Plug in your panini press and let it heat up. Make sure you are using one with a flat surface in order to get a flat plastic sheet for your ornaments. Once the panini press is hot, place a baking sheet on the press. We usually work with Teflon baking sheets because you can reuse them more often and they don`t tear apart. - -Now place your bottle caps on the panini press. It does not matter which way round you place them, they will melt just the same. Now cover the bottle caps with a second baking sheet and close the panini press. - -It helps the melting process, if you place something heavy on top of the panini press. This can be some bricks or heavy books, whatever you may have available. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-christmas-ornaments-from-upcycled-bottle-caps/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-christmas-ornaments-from-upcycled-bottle-caps/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index ab5eb9b27..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-christmas-ornaments-from-upcycled-bottle-caps/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Second or third layer - - Once your bottle caps are melted, you can add one or two more layers on top of it in the same way you did in Step 2. This depends a bit on how thick you want your ornaments to be. We went for 3 to 4mm thickness for the plastic sheet. You will need to melt 2 to 4 layers of bottle caps for that, depending a bit on the size of your caps. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-christmas-ornaments-from-upcycled-bottle-caps/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-christmas-ornaments-from-upcycled-bottle-caps/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index ae62114fa..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-christmas-ornaments-from-upcycled-bottle-caps/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Create a beautiful batik desig - - Now you should have a layer of melted bottle caps. You can either use the sheet right away or you can create a pretty batik design. To create that, put on some silicone gloves, roll the warm plastic into a sausage and then twist it around. This step is totally up to your own creativity. You can pull the warm plastic to stretch it, then fold it together and twist it again until you reach your desired design. -If the plastic hardens in the process, you can always re-heat it in the press to make it moldable again. - -Now you have a lump of plastic that needs to be melted again in order to make a flat sheet from it. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-christmas-ornaments-from-upcycled-bottle-caps/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-christmas-ornaments-from-upcycled-bottle-caps/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4895c5a06..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-christmas-ornaments-from-upcycled-bottle-caps/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Make a flat sheet - - Place the plastic lump inside the panini press and heat it up. Once the plastic starts to get soft, you can start applying pressure to the panini press again. We found that it helps to sit on top of it (careful not to burn yourself) and wiggle around a bit to make sure the plastic stretches out far enough. - -You can also remove the plastic from the press and use a rolling pin, but we found that sitting on top of the press works much better because you are not removing the plastic from the heat source. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-christmas-ornaments-from-upcycled-bottle-caps/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-christmas-ornaments-from-upcycled-bottle-caps/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index fbcbe60de..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-christmas-ornaments-from-upcycled-bottle-caps/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Let it cool down - - Open the press every now and then to check if you have reached the desired thickness of the sheet. Once it`s to your liking, switch off the press and let the sheet cool down. Make sure to leave something heavy on top of the press, otherwise your plastic will deform in the cooling process. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-christmas-ornaments-from-upcycled-bottle-caps/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-christmas-ornaments-from-upcycled-bottle-caps/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index c6ee2b49b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-christmas-ornaments-from-upcycled-bottle-caps/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Draw your ornaments onto sheet - - Once your sheet has cooled down, it`s time to get creative. Grab a pen that writes on plastic and draw your ornaments on the plastic sheet. We used cookie cutters for some of them but we also made some stencils from paper. - -When choosing your design, try to think about the sawing process: the more difficult or filigree your design is, the harder it will be to cut it out. Maybe start with something simple and then work your way towards more complicated designs. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-christmas-ornaments-from-upcycled-bottle-caps/step_8.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-christmas-ornaments-from-upcycled-bottle-caps/step_8.md deleted file mode 100644 index f6474feed..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-christmas-ornaments-from-upcycled-bottle-caps/step_8.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Cut out the ornaments - - Now it`s time to cut. For this step, you need a fretsaw. This can be a manual one or an electrical one, both work. We used an electrical one because it makes the process a little easier. But it`s also possible with a manual one, you just need a bit more patience. -Move the saw along the lines that you drew on the plastic sheet and voilà: you have your Christmas Ornament. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-christmas-ornaments-from-upcycled-bottle-caps/step_9.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-christmas-ornaments-from-upcycled-bottle-caps/step_9.md deleted file mode 100644 index 914d9b0e0..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-christmas-ornaments-from-upcycled-bottle-caps/step_9.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Clean the edges - - Use a sharp knife or razor blade to clean the edges of your ornament. We found that this works better than using sanding paper and it also produces less micro plastic. - -Remember: You don`t want to create additional pollution with your crafting, so make sure you always collect all the little plastic pieces that get cut off during your creative process. The great thing: you can throw them back on the panini press for your next batch! diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-clock-from-recycled-plastic/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-clock-from-recycled-plastic/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index fdbfefa7e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-clock-from-recycled-plastic/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Make clock from recycled plastic - - -Making clock is not difficult and you are able to recycle about 300g per clock in less than 2 hours. With creative design can be clock nice present for your friends or family. These hand made products can be done with electric oven, mini press and a simple compression mould. Clock diameter is 30 cm with thickness of 5mm. Material cost is about 6 EUR/ clock. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-clock-from-recycled-plastic/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-clock-from-recycled-plastic/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 88fdd0440..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-clock-from-recycled-plastic/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Prepare your mould - - You can get laser cutted mould on Precious Plastic bazar: -https://bazar.preciousplastic.com/moulds/compression-moulds/clock-compression-mould/ - -I understand that transporting mould can be costly for countries, especially outside Europe. -Therefore, I can provide you with 3D files in STP format, plans as PDF + plans in DXF format. -If you have access to a laser cutting machine and are only interested in files, send me a message and we can discuss the possibilities -Why don't I release all the models for free now? Because I need money for further development :) -And now let's start .. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-clock-from-recycled-plastic/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-clock-from-recycled-plastic/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 75bace252..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-clock-from-recycled-plastic/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,13 +0,0 @@ -### Prepare material + mould - - I have already tested HDPE, PP or PLA with good results. -You can play with different colours and bottle cap design. :) -You need between 270 - 350 g / clock (depends on material density) - -Before testing new material type, make a note/ picture how many material did you use. It will help you with future production. I use technological sheet uploaded as PDF/ Excel. - -Clean mould from impurities, dust or remaining plastic particles from previous production. (I use smooth sand paper) -To avoid sticking use mould release or oil. -Make sure your oil will not get to its smoke point: -https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Template:Smoke_point_of_cooking_oils -I recommend oil with smoke point above 230 deg. Celsius \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-clock-from-recycled-plastic/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-clock-from-recycled-plastic/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 63d30cf5d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-clock-from-recycled-plastic/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,14 +0,0 @@ -### Baking + pressing - - I use IKEA Görlig electric oven. -Set up temperature according to your material type. -For HDPE and PP I use temperature 225 deg Celsius. -I put mould in the oven for 50 min. -Set up timer. - - -Attention - use heat resistent gloves when you operate with mould from oven :) - -After baking process, press mould. -Cooling process take 20 - 30 min. -If you open mould earlier, there is risk of deformation. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-clock-from-recycled-plastic/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-clock-from-recycled-plastic/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 6055f81e3..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-clock-from-recycled-plastic/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11 +0,0 @@ -### Postprocessing - - Cut out edges with knife, -You can sand surface. -Drill hole in the middle according to size of your clock mechanism. -List of components and tools for clock assembly that I use - available in supporting material. -I buy them from Czech company. -On back side of clock there is small square frame which fits to the clock mechanism I use. -You can modify mould as you want. I prefer to fix position of clock mechanism to prevent its rotation. -I do not recommend sanding of surface if you use plate with numbers (area around numbers can be difficult to sand). -Nice advantage is different colours of clock hands, you can combine different colours. :) diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-clock-from-recycled-plastic/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-clock-from-recycled-plastic/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 49bfe2c08..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-clock-from-recycled-plastic/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Follow Plastmakers - - To provide more open source content, I will be happy for share, subscribe, like, follow or comment. <3 - -More information: https://linktr.ee/plastmakers - -Thank you. - -Tom \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-extruded-plastic-bricks/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-extruded-plastic-bricks/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index d292d4fcd..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-extruded-plastic-bricks/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Make extruded plastic bricks - - -Recycled plastic has the potential to replace more conventional and wasteful building materials such as hollow blocks. In this How-to, you will learn how to assemble the mould for the extruded plastic brick, ready for production. - -This brick was developed with the Extrusion Pro machine. -Learn here how to build it: \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-extruded-plastic-bricks/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-extruded-plastic-bricks/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9181e06f1..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-extruded-plastic-bricks/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Download templates to send for fabrication - - Download the laser cut kit. Then send for fabrication at your local laser cutting service. Note there are three bricks, one full brick and one two-third brick and a one-third brick. All of these are required to build a complete wall. - -Before sending to downloaded dwg files to your metal laser cutting service ensure they understand that your drawings are in MM. - -Each brick has tolerances included, but may be specific to your supplier. Before ordering, check that the tolerances conform. In this brick, we use a tolerance of 0.5mm. - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-extruded-plastic-bricks/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-extruded-plastic-bricks/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index c830063a7..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-extruded-plastic-bricks/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Delivery of laser cut parts - - Upon delivery, you should receive various pieces with varying thicknesses. It is good practice to check your parts immediately (compare with drawing) in case any errors have been made. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-extruded-plastic-bricks/step_10.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-extruded-plastic-bricks/step_10.md deleted file mode 100644 index 00388d458..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-extruded-plastic-bricks/step_10.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Prepare the male mould (Part C) - - The male part of the mould is the final section but is probably the most complicated to assemble. Take these stages slow. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-extruded-plastic-bricks/step_11.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-extruded-plastic-bricks/step_11.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7162d4f95..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-extruded-plastic-bricks/step_11.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Weld each hump individually - - The main section comes in many parts that we are going to tackle one at a time. The first is the humps. There are two and they are identical. Clamp them together and weld them along the seams. Preserving the corners. - -Like in step 8, use an angle grinder and sander to achieve round and smooth corners. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-extruded-plastic-bricks/step_12.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-extruded-plastic-bricks/step_12.md deleted file mode 100644 index 6a85c647b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-extruded-plastic-bricks/step_12.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Weld the base - - Using part CA5 align parts CE5 and CF5, clamp and weld. Avoid welding CA5 at this point. - -You should be left with a perfect frame to attach the two humps too. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-extruded-plastic-bricks/step_13.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-extruded-plastic-bricks/step_13.md deleted file mode 100644 index d7fe79b03..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-extruded-plastic-bricks/step_13.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Welding the humps to the base - - Now place the humps on top of the base frame and clamp them tight together. - -First weld around the outside, then turn the mould over and weld the point where the two humps meet to avoid plastic leaking in the future. - -Finish by grinding and sanding the welds again for a smooth surface and round edges. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-extruded-plastic-bricks/step_14.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-extruded-plastic-bricks/step_14.md deleted file mode 100644 index 70fbeedcd..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-extruded-plastic-bricks/step_14.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Adding the support structure - - Take part CA5 and clamp to the base, Tack welding on the inside only baring in mind that parts CB5, CC5 and CCD will be placed inside. Once all parts are placed inside weld all accessible ribs in full. Clamping like previous steps. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-extruded-plastic-bricks/step_15.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-extruded-plastic-bricks/step_15.md deleted file mode 100644 index 5039cf671..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-extruded-plastic-bricks/step_15.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Add the quick release nozzle - - Take part DA10 and place it onto the surface of AD5 in the marked out space. Use an 8mm drill bit to ensure perfect alignment of the holes and weld only on the shortest of the two sides. Then place part DB5 ensuring it fits with your extrusion adapter. (See Extrusion Adapter How To). Again welding only the top sections. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-extruded-plastic-bricks/step_16.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-extruded-plastic-bricks/step_16.md deleted file mode 100644 index e17863d94..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-extruded-plastic-bricks/step_16.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Adding bolt release mechanism - - To ensure we can always take the mould apart we need to install a set of bolts that prevent the mould from being stuck together. To do this, we disassemble the top section of the mould (Part A). Taking part AD5x1, thread a bolt through the bottom of the two 12mm holes and tighten the nut until it is placed firmly on the surface of the part. Then weld the nut that is on the top surface of the mould, ensuring no weld touches the nut. - -Repeat with this process with part AA5. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-extruded-plastic-bricks/step_17.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-extruded-plastic-bricks/step_17.md deleted file mode 100644 index 5c5c96ee3..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-extruded-plastic-bricks/step_17.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Fully assemble - - Fully assemble all parts, connecting A to B using bolts. and you should be left with something like this. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-extruded-plastic-bricks/step_18.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-extruded-plastic-bricks/step_18.md deleted file mode 100644 index 6b21b16b0..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-extruded-plastic-bricks/step_18.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Paint - - The mould is almost ready. Depending on if you purchased a Stainless Steel mould or Mild steel, you may want to combat rust with a nice coat of paint. - -You will need something that can handle high temperatures above 300c, we use paint for fireplaces or engine parts. Spraying only the external surfaces of the mould. To protect the inside of the mould we use light rubbing of oil after every use. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-extruded-plastic-bricks/step_19.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-extruded-plastic-bricks/step_19.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8349fc25e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-extruded-plastic-bricks/step_19.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Ready to make bricks!? - - Well done, now you’re ready to extrude! - -Find advice for the extruding process in the How-to “Extrude into closed mouldsâ€: -👉 https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/extrude-into-a-closed-mould - -And learn how to "Build brick structures": -👉 https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/build-brick-structures diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-extruded-plastic-bricks/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-extruded-plastic-bricks/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2f99b7d81..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-extruded-plastic-bricks/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Preparation of parts - - Before assembling your mould for welding, all rough edges created by the laser cutting will need to be removed so the mould can be assembled tightly. To do this we used a handheld sander however this can easily be done with a Dremel or by hand with a file. Take extra care not to damage the sharp corners of the metal. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-extruded-plastic-bricks/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-extruded-plastic-bricks/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index ccb58a16d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-extruded-plastic-bricks/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Assembly - - The mould comes in 3 key parts. The female top section of the mould requires no welding and is made of interlocking parts that are bolted together. The male lower section is completely welded. Each piece is also named very specifically to help you order and assemble. These names will also be engraved onto the mould to help you assemble. - -For example AB5x2. - “A†- First letter defines what part group it belongs to. -“B†- Second letter defines which part it is in that group. -“5†- First number defines the thickness of the metal in mm the part is made from. -“x2†- Specifies the number of pieces required per order to complete the mould. - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-extruded-plastic-bricks/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-extruded-plastic-bricks/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 1b2a257a6..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-extruded-plastic-bricks/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Assembly of the top section (Part A) - - Each corner requires 1 bolt and 3 nuts. The bolt should be 45-50 mm long, the nuts are 10mm. Place 6 bolts through the top plate (AD5) and add an additional two nuts to each. This should be followed by the interlocking parts (AB5 & AC5) followed by the bottom plate (AA5). The ideal distance of the two plates (AA5 & AD5) is 20 mm. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-extruded-plastic-bricks/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-extruded-plastic-bricks/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 970bbf8fd..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-extruded-plastic-bricks/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Put sides together (Part B) - - It is easiest to weld the supporting ribs (BB5, BC5, BE5 & BF5) to the 4 side plates before assembling the sides. To do this place the main plate on the welding table and clamp the ribs individually as you weld. Ensuring the main plate remains flat and does not warp. You will need to use (BG5) to ensure even spacing at the top and bottom. - -Repeat these steps for the other 3 sides. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-extruded-plastic-bricks/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-extruded-plastic-bricks/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index b921773a3..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-extruded-plastic-bricks/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Internal welding - - Once all of the ribs have been tacked, turn the plates over and weld (while clamped) the groves. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-extruded-plastic-bricks/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-extruded-plastic-bricks/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index c3966678e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-extruded-plastic-bricks/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Smoothing the inside - - Once cooled, grind away the welds ensuring the surface on the inside is completely smooth. Take care to not over grind the weld. Then sand the surface removing any finer imperfections. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-extruded-plastic-bricks/step_8.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-extruded-plastic-bricks/step_8.md deleted file mode 100644 index d9470b4ae..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-extruded-plastic-bricks/step_8.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Putting the sides together - - Once all 4 sides have been sanded on the inside, place them together as seen in the diagram and weld them together. A clamp may be useful in this process. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-extruded-plastic-bricks/step_9.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-extruded-plastic-bricks/step_9.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7da7e3222..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-extruded-plastic-bricks/step_9.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Adding the bottom and top frame - - Once all 4 sides have been welded. Place part number (BG5) on the bottom and part (BI5) on the top. This may need a gentle hammering to fit, but must not be forced otherwise it may bend. - -Once in place clamp together. Ensuring the inside surface is smooth and weld any external surface. - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-glass-like-beams/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-glass-like-beams/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 6cb8688b9..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-glass-like-beams/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Make glass-like beams - - -Creating with recycled plastic offers a big variety of colours and transparencies. -In this how-to we will show how you can transform discarded Polystyrene into a beam with a glass like colour and finish. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-glass-like-beams/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-glass-like-beams/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2de22a2c4..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-glass-like-beams/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11 +0,0 @@ -### Get ready - - Alright so before starting, here some basics to check out and prepare first. - -For this technique you will need: -Machines: Shredder (or already shredded plastic), Extrusion machine, Oven -Tools: Scissors / Knife, Pliers, Weighing scales and two containers, Silicone oil, Clamps, Spanner -Materials: Polystyrene and pigment - -If you haven't extruded beams before, learn more in the How-to "Make a mould for beams". -(https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/make-a-mould-for-extruding-beams) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-glass-like-beams/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-glass-like-beams/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 5efb4b474..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-glass-like-beams/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Stay safe - - When melting plastic, bad fumes can be released. In order to work safer, make sure to use a breathing mask with ABEK filters to prevent inhaling possibly toxic fumes. Special attention on plastics like PS (polystyrene) and PVC. Also when handling with heated elements and plastic we recommend to wear working gloves. - -Recommended safety equipment: ABEK mask, gloves and glasses \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-glass-like-beams/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-glass-like-beams/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 0dd7fa161..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-glass-like-beams/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Prepare your polystyrene - - Selecting the right material is crucial when it comes to aesthetics. What properties does the material have, what colour is it? -As PS stays transparent in the recycling process, it has the perfect quality to make a light. Collect your clean PS, which is typically found in old CD and cassette cases. Make sure to shred enough, the required amount will vary depending on the size of your mould. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-glass-like-beams/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-glass-like-beams/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2c4d79703..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-glass-like-beams/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Prepare your colour - - Now we use pigment to add colour to the transparent polystyrene. You can find it online (search for 'pigment for polystyrene'), but do check out if you can find it in a local shop. Using pigment has the advantage that it keeps the translucency of your material. If you only have access to coloured PS plastic, you will probably not get the same effect (unless the plastic is also translucent), so this will need some testing. -
Start by cutting one pellet of pigment into smaller pieces. The pigment we use (___) has a really strong affect so you only need a small amount to mix with. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-glass-like-beams/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-glass-like-beams/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 51034e00b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-glass-like-beams/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Weigh your quantities - - Controlling your quantities is important to get your desired colour and effect. You can weigh a piece of a previously made beam to get an idea of the required total weight. -Weighing out the quantities of your materials into separate containers will enable you to have more control of your result. - -In the next steps we will show the mixtures and results of two processes: -Mixing clear PS with pure pigment (Step 7) -Mixing clear PS with a PS-pigment-mix (Step 8) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-glass-like-beams/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-glass-like-beams/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 206bd55ed..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-glass-like-beams/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Get ready for extruding - - Alright, let’s get everything ready to melt! -First, turn on the extruder and set the temperature to 230°C. -And then there are a few tricks to prepare your mould for a smoother process and outcome. We recommend to coat the inside of the mould with silicone oil to help getting the beam out of the mould after it cooled down. And in order to achieve a smooth material surface it helps to heat up your mould with a heat gun or warm it up in an oven for around __ minutes before attaching it to the preheated extruder. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-glass-like-beams/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-glass-like-beams/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index cfe207d23..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-glass-like-beams/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Extrude (1) - Concentrated colours - - Time to melt! -Mixture: 95% clear PS, 5% blue cut-up pigment - -Put your clean PS in your extruder hopper and sprinkle the smashed pigment in evenly. Do not add all of your mix in at once, gradually sprinkle making sure there’s enough mixture in the hopper. Keep an eye on the other end of the mould and stop the extruder as soon as you see material approach the end. - -It will come out as a strong concentrated colour. To create a cloudy pastel colour, we will mix this material again in a further process (Step 8). - -Note: Collect your excess material and squish it flat before it hardens, so it will be easier to shred it again for further processes. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-glass-like-beams/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-glass-like-beams/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index d53e71267..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-glass-like-beams/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Extrude (2) - Cloudy colours - - Now we use the re-shredded excess material from the previous process which makes the colour more cloudy. In this example we used the following mixture: -Mixture: 70% clear PS
, 30% shredded PS-pigment-mix - -Start by putting your clear PS into the extruder followed by the PS-pigment-mix. You can experiment with adding more colour by putting pigment back into this mixture to create dynamic colour tones and patterns. - -P.S. Keep collecting your left over material to melt it again, this is the stuff that will make your material glass-like. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-glass-like-beams/step_8.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-glass-like-beams/step_8.md deleted file mode 100644 index 872da6965..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-glass-like-beams/step_8.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Explore the possibilities! - - Et voilá , this is how you create beams and materials with magical colours, transparencies and patterns. As the mixing process is hard to control, achieving exactly the same outcome is unrealistic. But the beauty of melting plastic this way is that each piece will be unique! The transparency of PS offers itself perfectly for lighting, like shown in our how-to "Make a lamp from PS"

. - -But the further possibilities of this material can be taken into many other directions.
 -Have fun exploring! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-great-beam-patterns/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-great-beam-patterns/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 607ca8f5d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-great-beam-patterns/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Make great beam patterns! - - -People ask me occasionally how to get beautiful patterns in the beams and the funny thing is that zero technical tricks are used to make that happen! The used technique for making beams is exactly the way Precious Plastic does it, using a simple steel pipe as a mold and let the extruder do the work :-) -Here is what you can try to get the same results! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-great-beam-patterns/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-great-beam-patterns/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 6c86553a0..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-great-beam-patterns/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Prepare your blends carefully - - In order to create patterns with nice layers, you need at least 2 colors. It doesn't really matter if you work with PP or PE, I haven't seen differences while working with these two. Keep the color mixes seperate. I mixed the dark blue that I used here with transparant flakes because it's a nice 'filler'. You will need less dark blue to create the same output because the color pigments are often very strong. So if you add 1kg transparant to 1kg dark blue, you get 2kg dark blue without loss of color quality. -The white used here is pure white. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-great-beam-patterns/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-great-beam-patterns/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index ffb85b259..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-great-beam-patterns/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Time to do the cooking! - - Insert a few scoops in your extruder, turn the machine on and see if it comes out fully melted. Install your (cold) mold and turn on the machine again. For the first color I would go for 3 scoops in total ( minus the leftover already in the hopper). When the hopper is almost empty, toss in 2 scoops of your second color. Repeat this step while playing with the quantities until the mold is full. Time to remove to cool down a bit. I noticed the advice of cooling the mold in water to prevent plastic of running out, but that hardly happens in here so I never do that. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-great-beam-patterns/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-great-beam-patterns/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 6bb8b0bec..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-great-beam-patterns/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Unboxing and see what came out - - Time to check out what the mix did! :-) When you start cutting the beam into little bits you will see an interesting changing of the pattern and my best explanation would be the following: The first color inserted sticks to the wall/surface of the mold and cools down a little. The core stays fluid and gains acces for the second color to pass trough. changing the input color again and again will create multiple layers in your beam. See next step for theory part 2 :-) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-great-beam-patterns/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-great-beam-patterns/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 584b2f0bb..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-great-beam-patterns/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Theory part 2 & proces video - - Another important theory is that... further in the mold, the plastic will be less hot so pressure is being build up more in order to let the plastic flow. The further away from the inlet, the patterns start to get very interesting and that's all created by differences in temperature flows and pressure. Especially with the square tube is this super interesting because of the corners where the flow will slow down more. I assume round tube will only create circle patterns. - -Check out the video to see the making of a Chessboard with these amazing beams. Thank you for reading and enjoy your pattern creating! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-jewellery/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-jewellery/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 461c69c6c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-jewellery/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Make jewellery! - - -In this how-to, we'll explain how to make accessories using a heatpress and different drills. We used plastic scraps and leftovers from other projects or created new sheets with whole bottle caps and/or plastic flakes. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-jewellery/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-jewellery/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4e554208b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-jewellery/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,12 +0,0 @@ -### Choose your plastic - - You can use HDPE or PP for making these accesories. Some options of plastic you can use: - -1. Re-use old scraps from past projects (e.g. from thin plastic sheets) or bits of plastic that come out when drilling into it. -2. Make a new sheet from bottlecaps (no need to shred) -3. Shredded flakes (+also combined with bottlecaps) - -Other necessary things: -1. macramé thread or other, for necklaces and bracelets -2. earring rings - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-jewellery/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-jewellery/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index b6f314edf..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-jewellery/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,20 +0,0 @@ -### Make a thin plastic sheet - - You can use a heatpress or an oven for this step. - -Heatpress: -1. Put bottle caps (by themselves or with shredded flakes inside them/around them) between two layers of baking paper. Press at 190C for about 1 min, up to 5 min. - -2. Let the plastic cool down under a heavy flat surface, for about 10-15min to ensure a better result. - -3. Repeat step 2 - -Oven: -1. Choose the plastic you want to use, melt on a metal tray at 190C for about 10-15 min, or until all the plastic is molten. - -2. Use a press to flatten the tray, and let cool down for at least 1 hour for better results. - -3. Repeat step 2 - - -*Keep in mind that the products will be more comfortable to wear if the plastic sheets are thinner. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-jewellery/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-jewellery/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 85a3bb40a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-jewellery/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### If using scraps from past projects: - - 1. You've chosen the bits you like the most, so now you can cut them in the shape you want, and sand the edges with a sanding sponge or stick. - -2. Drill a small hole on the piece: you will use it for the ring of an earring, or thread for a necklace, for example. - -3. Insert earring ring or other material you'd like to use. If you use these small rings, make sure to pull them as shown on image one, rather than image two. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-notepad-covers--springs/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-notepad-covers--springs/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 233cb5e33..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-notepad-covers--springs/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Make notepad covers & springs - - -How to make small sheets and springs to assemble a notepad \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-notepad-covers--springs/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-notepad-covers--springs/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index fcd8d2436..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-notepad-covers--springs/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Prepare your mix - - Select, weight, and mix the colors you want, we used PP shredded bottle caps. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-notepad-covers--springs/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-notepad-covers--springs/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7c8c42913..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-notepad-covers--springs/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Make the springs - - Fill the injection machine and wait for the plastic to start flowing, with a small nozzle and a constant weight applied on the machine, use a wooden rod to "screw" the filament around it, make it as long as you want, we recommend using a wooden rod because the plastics sort of sticks and makes it easier to form the spring. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-notepad-covers--springs/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-notepad-covers--springs/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index ba592c99c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-notepad-covers--springs/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Make the covers - - Remove the small nozzle from the injection machine and extrude some plastic on a flat sheet, press it against another sheet in a press, wait for it to cool and remove the plastic sheet, cut it to shape, make the holes and assemble the notebook. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-notepad-covers--springs/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-notepad-covers--springs/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 1ac4398bf..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-notepad-covers--springs/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Enjoy your recycled booklet - - Try different combinations, you can make the springs out of the same mixture of however you want :) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-outdoor-furniture-with-beams/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-outdoor-furniture-with-beams/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 0eb17f8cc..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-outdoor-furniture-with-beams/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Make outdoor furniture with beams - - -We extrude the mix of all the different kinds of plastic to sticks and screw them together to furniture. For our chairs you need stickd with hard parts for the legs of the chair and a soft part in the middle. -HARD ..mix LDPE HDOE PP PS -SOFT .mix LDPE HDPE EVA flip flops \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-outdoor-furniture-with-beams/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-outdoor-furniture-with-beams/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index ae77f761c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-outdoor-furniture-with-beams/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Extruding sticks - - We use the mix of plastic found on the beach or in the environment, about 40 % LDPE, 20% HDPE, 20 % PP, 10 % shrunk EPS and a small amount of shredded PET, aluminium coa. ted chips bags, EVA , but no PVC .... we accept some downgrading which is possible for a bit lower quality in this way. -My friend Toan Nguyen has developed the first extruders built in Vietnam. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-outdoor-furniture-with-beams/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-outdoor-furniture-with-beams/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index d007ab30d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-outdoor-furniture-with-beams/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Prepare your pieces - - Choose a furniture design (you can just copy an existing piece of furniture which is made out of wood) and prepare the pieces you need to build it. - -In most furniture it's enough to use straight beams, but you can also bend the sticks so you have round elements. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-outdoor-furniture-with-beams/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-outdoor-furniture-with-beams/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 74b1bb2b8..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-outdoor-furniture-with-beams/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Screw the parts together - - If you have all your parts ready you just need to screw them together like you would do with wood. -Then your furniture is done! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-outdoor-furniture-with-beams/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-outdoor-furniture-with-beams/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9081dc85e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-outdoor-furniture-with-beams/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Make more! - - In this way we can process lots of plastic and all kinds. -We build outdoor shelves, tables ... -and publish on our Youtube channel PACIFIC BEAUTY plastic. - -You can see more about this process in this video: -https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_0Kbeaz63OY - -Have fun! :) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-plaster-moulds-for-large-products/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-plaster-moulds-for-large-products/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 716fb88e7..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-plaster-moulds-for-large-products/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Make plaster moulds for large products - - -Here, we outline the process of making and using plaster moulds. It’s a great low tech way of making larger, more complex products. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-plaster-moulds-for-large-products/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-plaster-moulds-for-large-products/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index a4513e27c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-plaster-moulds-for-large-products/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,15 +0,0 @@ -### Consider pros and cons - - Before you start, it is important to note that there are some drawbacks to using this process. Plaster moulds are not long lasting - so this may not make sense as a common way to process plastic. - -However, it is a great way to inject large, solid products and can be used as a prototyping technique. For example - if you want to test the shape of a mould before it is milled into a block of aluminium. - -You’ll need: --Extruder machine --Shredded plastic --Casting plaster --Mould release --A model or object to replicate --Melamine or plywood --Heat gun --Paint, chopped fibreglass, shellac (optional) diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-plaster-moulds-for-large-products/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-plaster-moulds-for-large-products/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 6c27e0b11..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-plaster-moulds-for-large-products/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Make a model to replicate - - You’ll need a model or object to cast your plaster mould around. This could be anything - a model you made, a 3D print, your favourite toy. Consider how many parts your mould requires. Our product required a two part mould. - -In this case, the desired shape was cut out of foam using a home made hot wire and hand sanding. - -Pay close attention to the surface finish - if there are any small bumps or dents, these will show in the final product. If you care about this - keep sanding, filling and painting. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-plaster-moulds-for-large-products/step_10.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-plaster-moulds-for-large-products/step_10.md deleted file mode 100644 index 838b81662..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-plaster-moulds-for-large-products/step_10.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### That's it! - - A little time consuming but a nice low tech mould making technique. It will never replace machined moulds, but can definitely be useful for prototyping larger, more organic shapes. -Here’s our final product - a stool made from old polypropylene chairs. But the possibilities are endless. - -One thing that you could change is the contrast between the plastics you feed into the extruder. In this case, the colour choices were quite similar so there isn’t much contrast. This is something that can definitely be controlled depending on the look you are going for. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-plaster-moulds-for-large-products/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-plaster-moulds-for-large-products/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index d4d55a8f8..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-plaster-moulds-for-large-products/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Make a box to cast your mould - - Make a box around your model and ensure everything is sealed and secure (you don't want your model floating up when you pour the plaster). For the box, melamine works really well but you can also use plywood. - -You might also want to use a mould release (vaseline works!) to make sure the plaster releases more easily. - -Some reference pins are also handy to make sure the moulds line up with each other later on. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-plaster-moulds-for-large-products/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-plaster-moulds-for-large-products/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index b24183fb2..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-plaster-moulds-for-large-products/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Mix and pour the plaster - - Mix the casting plaster according to the manufacturer specifications. In this case, chopped fibreglass was added to the mix to increase the mould durability. - -Pour the mix into the box - as a general rule, pour it to twice the height of the model. - -As soon as you pour the mix, spend a few minutes taping the box with a hammer to make sure any air pockets rise to the surface. - -Allow the plaster to cure for a couple of days before you demould. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-plaster-moulds-for-large-products/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-plaster-moulds-for-large-products/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index e633c0dcc..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-plaster-moulds-for-large-products/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Air dry and seal - - Now that you have both parts of your mould, it is best to let them air dry for a couple of days. You’ll feel when they’re touch dry (and they’ll be much lighter) - this means you are ready to progress. - -As an extra step - you can add a layer of shellac on the plaster surfaces. When it cures, you can then add a mould release (silicone oil or vaseline). This will ensure plastic does not stick to your mould and you can use it again. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-plaster-moulds-for-large-products/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-plaster-moulds-for-large-products/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 97036576d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-plaster-moulds-for-large-products/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Drill injection + relief holes - - Ok, time to prepare the mould for your machine. Clamp the parts of your mould together so that they align. In this case, a large hole was drilled to connect to the extruder machine. - -Some smaller holes were also drilled in various locations to act as indicators that the plastic has reached that point. They also help to prevent a build up of pressure. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-plaster-moulds-for-large-products/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-plaster-moulds-for-large-products/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7d81516f4..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-plaster-moulds-for-large-products/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Heat your mould - - Since this is a slow injection moulding process, you’ll need to make sure the inside of the mould stays hot the whole time. This can be done a number of ways - in this case, large holes were drilled to circulate hot air through the mould from two heat guns. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-plaster-moulds-for-large-products/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-plaster-moulds-for-large-products/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index 6236ac99c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-plaster-moulds-for-large-products/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Inject (using the extruder) - - Ok, you’re almost ready to inject. Start heating your plaster mould. While that’s heating, fire up your extruder and prepare your plastic. When your mould is hot, you can start injecting. This could take anywhere from a few minutes to a few hours depending on the size of your product. In this case, the injection process took about 2.5 hours to fill the mould. - -When plastic has reached all of your reference points (those little holes you drilled earlier) that means your product is fully injected. At this point, turn off your heat guns and extruder. You also need to plug all of the holes to maintain pressure inside the mould. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-plaster-moulds-for-large-products/step_8.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-plaster-moulds-for-large-products/step_8.md deleted file mode 100644 index 5f68bed65..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-plaster-moulds-for-large-products/step_8.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Demould - - You'll have to wait a while for everything to cool down at room temperature. The plaster will insulate the heat so this could take up to 12 hours depending on the size of your product. - -Demould your product and be careful to preserve your mould so you can use it again! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-plaster-moulds-for-large-products/step_9.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-plaster-moulds-for-large-products/step_9.md deleted file mode 100644 index e14de2688..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-plaster-moulds-for-large-products/step_9.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Post processing - - If you've done everything properly, there will only be minimal post processing required. This involves cutting off the injection point and the relief channels. - -You can also clean up the part line. We recommend doing this with a knife so you can recycle the shavings again! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-plastic-injection-with-solar-power/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-plastic-injection-with-solar-power/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index be7b0bd82..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-plastic-injection-with-solar-power/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Make Plastic Injection with Solar Power - - -Today volks.eco and PlastOK are proud to share with you a solution to inject some precious plastic parts using only solar and human power. -We believe this method will spread further the precious plastic concept and increase the potential use of plastic waste anywhere in the world. -This is our first step in the solar precious plastic experience. -Don’t forget your sunscreen, sunglasses and enjoy ! - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-plastic-injection-with-solar-power/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-plastic-injection-with-solar-power/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index e5cf35778..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-plastic-injection-with-solar-power/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,13 +0,0 @@ -### Prepare the setup - - You need : - --To find a sunny place --Volks.eco solar concentrator --Hydraulic Jack press --Iron injection load --Shredded plastic --Injection mold --Cup of water --Oven gloves --Clamp diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-plastic-injection-with-solar-power/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-plastic-injection-with-solar-power/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index a97963f5f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-plastic-injection-with-solar-power/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Load the cartridge - - Load the shredded plastic inside the iron cartridge. - -Compress as much as you can the needed amount of plastic depending on the volume of your part, inside the cartridge. - -Lock with ½ cap end your cartridge. - -Load the cartridge inside the concentrator. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-plastic-injection-with-solar-power/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-plastic-injection-with-solar-power/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index d00fb8019..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-plastic-injection-with-solar-power/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Heating the Cartridge - - Wait the time necessary depending on the sunlight exposure (between 30 and 60 min). - -You can use a temp prob inside of the heated tube to manage the temperature of the cartridge. - -There is a lot to learn with this method and a lot of inputs to bring on the table. - -If you are motivated, you can scale plastic recycling to another level. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-plastic-injection-with-solar-power/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-plastic-injection-with-solar-power/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7e3a99b2a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-plastic-injection-with-solar-power/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11 +0,0 @@ -### Screw cartridge & mold - - âš ï¸ The cartridge will be really hot, USE GLOVES ! - -Remove the two end cap of the hot cartridge. - -Plunge one extremity of the tube in the cup of water. - -By putting the end of the tube in the water, you will make a hard plastic piece that will push the melted plastic inside of the mold. - -NB : Preheating the mold helps a lot to obtain a nice finished part, above 60°C. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-plastic-injection-with-solar-power/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-plastic-injection-with-solar-power/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 3c23ce9ed..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-plastic-injection-with-solar-power/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Inject manually - - Inject the plastic inside the mold, the quicker your can, the better it is. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-plastic-injection-with-solar-power/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-plastic-injection-with-solar-power/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index b35c534f4..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-plastic-injection-with-solar-power/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Extract the injected part - - Be sure to have cooled down the mold (put in cold water) before extracting your injected part. - -Now you have a nicely injected finished part made only with human and solar power ! - - - - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-plastic-yarn-plarn-from-a-plastic-carry-bag/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-plastic-yarn-plarn-from-a-plastic-carry-bag/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index efc57783f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-plastic-yarn-plarn-from-a-plastic-carry-bag/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Make plastic yarn (plarn) from a plastic carry bag - - -With this technique we will get a single, continuous, seamless strand of yarn without any joining knots. - -All you will need is a plastic bag, a pair of scissors and any object that can be used as a weight (your mobile phone will do!). - -Once you have this yarn you can apply any handcrafted technique - knitting, crochet, weaving, macramé or braiding! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-plastic-yarn-plarn-from-a-plastic-carry-bag/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-plastic-yarn-plarn-from-a-plastic-carry-bag/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index baab3a008..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-plastic-yarn-plarn-from-a-plastic-carry-bag/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Video Tutorial - - This video explains the entire process. - -Once you watch it, you can follow the detailed steps below to make your yarn. - -Enjoy! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-plastic-yarn-plarn-from-a-plastic-carry-bag/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-plastic-yarn-plarn-from-a-plastic-carry-bag/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 599df04db..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-plastic-yarn-plarn-from-a-plastic-carry-bag/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11 +0,0 @@ -### Cutting off the Seam - - Image 1: - -Let's consider the plastic bag to be made up of the seam, the body and the handles. Knowing these terms will help us during the process of making the yarn. - - -Image 2: - -Start by flattening the plastic bag and removing all the creases. -Cut off the seam. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-plastic-yarn-plarn-from-a-plastic-carry-bag/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-plastic-yarn-plarn-from-a-plastic-carry-bag/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 0c097aa2b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-plastic-yarn-plarn-from-a-plastic-carry-bag/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,18 +0,0 @@ -### Folding the Bag - - Image 3: - -You will notice that your bag has 2 flaps or folds. -(Most plastic bags have it, but if yours doesn't, then Image 3 and Image 4 do not apply.) - - -Image 4: - -Take the flap that is away from you and fold it in, towards you. - - -Image 5: - -Now, fold the bag in half, not all the way to the end but leaving a margin of about 3 to 5 cm. -Fold it a couple of times more. -If your plastic bag is thick, you can fold it a fewer times so that it is easier to cut. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-plastic-yarn-plarn-from-a-plastic-carry-bag/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-plastic-yarn-plarn-from-a-plastic-carry-bag/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 6da4e4cc5..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-plastic-yarn-plarn-from-a-plastic-carry-bag/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,12 +0,0 @@ -### Cutting the Strips - - Image 6: - -Place a weight at the end of the bag, on the handles. -We will be cutting parallelly along the length of the bag, not all the way till the end but until the margin. -Make cuts all the way until the handles. Cut the handles off. - -Note: -- Make cuts roughly at an equal distance from each other to get a yarn of uniform thickness. -- You can cut the yarn as thick as you like depending on your project. In the video, I have cut the yarn about 1.5 cm apart which is good to crochet with with a 3 mm hook. If you would like to make something chunkier, you can cut it 5 - 8 cm apart. Of course, the thickness of the yarn also depends on the thickness of the bag, so just play around! - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-plastic-yarn-plarn-from-a-plastic-carry-bag/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-plastic-yarn-plarn-from-a-plastic-carry-bag/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index c85a608ba..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-plastic-yarn-plarn-from-a-plastic-carry-bag/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,22 +0,0 @@ -### Making the Diagonal Cuts - - Image 7: - -Unfold the strips of the bag. - - -Image 8: - -Open out & unfold the margin area. - - -Image 9: - -Instead if cutting parallelly, we will be cutting diagonally so that we get a continuous spiral. -Start by cutting the the first end off, the cut that is towards you. -Now cut from the 2nd cut towards you to the 1st cut on the other side, away from you. -Keep doing this until you reach the end. Cut the last end off. - - -And the yarn is ready, hooray! -Ball it up or wind it around a bobbin. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-ps-glue-yourself/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-ps-glue-yourself/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 57becd4c2..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-ps-glue-yourself/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Make PS glue yourself - - -PS dissolves in acetone creating a thick mixture that could be used as a gap filler or as a glue. In this case we will use D-Limonene, a natural solvent which creates strong chemical bonding on PS. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-ps-glue-yourself/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-ps-glue-yourself/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 3adbe3a56..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-ps-glue-yourself/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,20 +0,0 @@ -### Get your materials - - For this process we will need the following materials and equipment. - -Materials needed to make the glue: -- D-limone -- EPS (Styrofoam) -- glass jar with lid - -Materials/tools needed for application: -- IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol) cleaner -- Scotch Brite (or similar) -- stick or brush to spread -- clamp to press together -- stick to stir - -Recommended safety equipment: -- ABEK mask -- gloves -- safety glasses \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-ps-glue-yourself/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-ps-glue-yourself/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 05ba6d4d8..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-ps-glue-yourself/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Take the right precautions first - - When making the glue it’s recommendable to work in a well ventilated space, preferably in a fume hood. -D-Limonene is hazardous as an irritant in cases of eye contact, skin contact, and inhalation, so make sure to use an ABEK mask, safety glasses and gloves in order to prevent irritations. - -For safety, before working with D-limonene, read the SDS sheet from the packaging. D-Limonene is flammable in presence of open flames and sparks. It must be kept away from flames at all times, however a mix of. PS and d-limonene is not flammable. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-ps-glue-yourself/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-ps-glue-yourself/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index ea3d04be6..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-ps-glue-yourself/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,13 +0,0 @@ -### Make the mixture - - Get your glass jar (here is where we are going to contain the glue so make sure to use a jar that allows you to access the glue comfortably afterwards) - -Put in D-Limonene (approx 25ml) -Add EPS (Styrofoam) until it forms a thick translucent glue -The right amount is 16g for 25ml of D-limonene (Density: 0.8411 g/cm3). That makes a ratio in g of 0.74 (eps/d-limonene). - -Once the EPS is mostly dissolved, immediately close the jar. D-Limonene is a solvent that evaporates in contact with the air, so make sure it’s airtight. - -Finally let the mixture rest 24h to get a consistent glue. D-limonene by itself takes a long time to fully dissolve EPS but this research explains how to shorten the drying time and at the same time increase its viscosity diluting the solution with water. - -The resulting optimal glue contains 2g polystyrene, 2ml water, 0.2g lecithin and 4ml D-Limonene. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-ps-glue-yourself/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-ps-glue-yourself/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index e7328c6fc..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-ps-glue-yourself/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Apply the mixture - - Once the glue is ready and before applying it, make sure to clean the surfaces you are going to glue together. Use a non-aggressive product like IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol) cleaner and a Scotch Brite (or similar) to remove any dirt or release agent left from the mould. - -Use a stick or an old brush to spread the adhesive on the surfaces and clamp the parts together. - -Leave them curating for around 24h, at ambient temperature (around 15º-20º) to be sure that the parts are completely glued. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-ps-glue-yourself/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-ps-glue-yourself/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 83cd77e63..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-ps-glue-yourself/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Store - - Make sure to store it really airtight. Shelf-life can range from 3-6 months. - -But the glue can remain without much change for months granted if it’s well sealed. It might be useful to add some water if planned to leave for a long time as the glue might harden. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-some-colorful-plant-pots/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-some-colorful-plant-pots/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9b9498bd0..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-some-colorful-plant-pots/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Make some Colorful Plant Pots - - -Let's try to recycle some plastic into beautifully colorful plant pots. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-some-colorful-plant-pots/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-some-colorful-plant-pots/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index fb93f691c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-some-colorful-plant-pots/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Requirements - - To create our pots, we need the following things & tools: - -* Leftover plastics (sorted by type and color) -* Silicone molds -The molds we used are intended for concrete casting, but as silicone is quite heat resistant, they work perfectly well with up to 200°C, sometimes even more. Just search for "Concrete silicone mold" on Amazon, eBay, Aliexpress, or wherever you like to shop online. -* An oven, like the compression oven. We won't use the actual compression part, just the heat. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-some-colorful-plant-pots/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-some-colorful-plant-pots/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8b3ae1a21..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-some-colorful-plant-pots/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Preparing Your Plastic - - We need to have the plastic in small enough pieces so we can fill our silicone moulds. If you have a shredder, use that. If you don't, use a hammer (on brittle plastic), shears, bandsaws, whatever works to get them down in size. It doesn't need to be super small, since it will melt into the mould, and you can experiment with patterns of colors, depending on the size of the pieces you put in. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-some-colorful-plant-pots/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-some-colorful-plant-pots/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 6a2f0983b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-some-colorful-plant-pots/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Filling Up the Molds - - With your plastic properly prepared, squeeze in as much as you can into your silicone molds. Think of some funky color combinations. Here we're going for a mix of green/yellow and blue/red. - -Ideally, the plastic can collapse in onto itself while melting, and not drip outside of your mold. That just means there's less for you to worry about while it's in the oven. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-some-colorful-plant-pots/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-some-colorful-plant-pots/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 405783956..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-some-colorful-plant-pots/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Filling the Oven - - With your oven preheated at the target temperature for your type of plastic, it's time to pop the filled molds into the heat. - -We're using PLA, with a temperature of 170-180°C. This might be different for your oven also, so start a little on the cool side and work your way up. The Precious Plastic Download Pack has a good reference poster for some other common types of plastics. For 3D printing plastics, check out the datasheets by your filament supplier. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-some-colorful-plant-pots/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-some-colorful-plant-pots/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index f5b313fb6..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-some-colorful-plant-pots/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Melting, Squishing, Refilling - - Now you need to keep a constant eye on your molds. Especially if they're stacked quite full, always look for plastic trying to drip over the sides. In that case, take out the mold (wear welding gloves), and push the plastic back into the mold using a flat-head screwdriver. - -The same process is also helpful to compact bigger pieces of softened plastic down into the mold (like in the first picture here). - -Keep adding new material to slowly fill up the mold, keeping your color scheme and pattern in mind. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-some-colorful-plant-pots/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-some-colorful-plant-pots/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 28b82cfbe..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-some-colorful-plant-pots/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Cooldown - - With the molds filled up, it's time to take them out of the oven and let them cool down. Again make sure to wear proper gloves while doing so. - -I like to still pop some of the air bubbles with a screwdriver before letting the pots cool. The longer the molds are in the oven, the less air bubbles you'll have, but they're hard to avoid completely with a process like this. - -One thing we're still experimenting with is adding a 2-3mm metal sheet on top of the mold while it cools. This helps with a more consistent top/bottom, but sometimes leads to some deformation of the piece itself. Just try it out for yourself. - -Let the molds cool down completely, ideally overnight. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-some-colorful-plant-pots/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-some-colorful-plant-pots/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index 92e90f085..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-some-colorful-plant-pots/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Demolding - - With the molds and the plastic properly cooled, it's time to get your pots out of their molds. The silicone is quite flexible, so you turn the mold in on itself to release the pot. But it's also easy to rip the molds in tight corners, so try to be a bit careful there. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-some-colorful-plant-pots/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-some-colorful-plant-pots/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index 35974170b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-some-colorful-plant-pots/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Marking the Plastic Type - - To ensure your pots can be recycled again, you have to mark it with the type of plastic it is. Ideally you would print the recycling triangle on there with the appropriate number and text, and there are special sets of branding irons to do exactly that at home. - -But a much simpler way is to use some of these punching letters you would usually use on sheet metal and punch the type into the bottom of your pots. Like so. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-some-colorful-plant-pots/step_8.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-some-colorful-plant-pots/step_8.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4316b6c4f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-some-colorful-plant-pots/step_8.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Fill Them Up With Plants - - Now it's time to find some small plants and fill up your pots. Get some succulent cuttings from a friend and grow your own tiny plants. Or get some at the gardening store, if you're in a hurry like I was. But growing them yourself is much more rewarding, for sure. - -Don't forget to water them, right after replanting, and continuously as well. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-flipflopi-boat/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-flipflopi-boat/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 1be752d68..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-flipflopi-boat/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Make the Flipflopi boat - - -The Flipflopi is a sailing boat made from 100% recycled plastic and flipflops collected from the streets and beaches in Kenya. - -Here we want to share how it was made and what we learned on the way. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-flipflopi-boat/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-flipflopi-boat/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 999d47f87..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-flipflopi-boat/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Intro - - Okay, so first off, this boat is a first of its kind, a prototype. The processes we used were done for the first time and are not perfect (far from that actually!). So don’t take this as a guide to copy identically but more as something to learn and get inspired from :) - -If you want to dive more into details, see more photos, and test results, have a look at the document here: -👉 https://drive.google.com/file/d/1NZgn58G6XC_cCiG8W5toE4hkAw53BlPY/view?usp=sharing \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-flipflopi-boat/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-flipflopi-boat/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index aae15b633..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-flipflopi-boat/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### We got a boatbuilder - - Okay, so it all started with finding a local boat builder, who was confident and visionary enough to believe that we could build a boat from a totally different material than what they were used to. - -Ali Skanda, from Lamu, was our man and gathered his boatbuilder team to apply their knowledge to a new material. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-flipflopi-boat/step_10.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-flipflopi-boat/step_10.md deleted file mode 100644 index 533af181f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-flipflopi-boat/step_10.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Things we learned - - It was a big process with a lot of learning, and yes, the result is a functional boat - but the process was quite rough with a lot of space for improvement. - -On the way we also made more tests and analysed the properties of the materials. -You can find a report here: -https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Qf6IKGYNRBJ3DJkxxsOehNt4faN2SPxk/view?usp=sharing - -And the document we shared in Step 1 has everything with more details as well :) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-flipflopi-boat/step_11.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-flipflopi-boat/step_11.md deleted file mode 100644 index ded25f3cd..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-flipflopi-boat/step_11.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,12 +0,0 @@ -### Join us for the big boat! :) - - We already reached hundreds of thousands locally and globally with our expedition and the whole story around the boat. It's a great tool to reach people in a positive way to push better solutions. - -So, we'll be building a much bigger boat which can sail longer distances and reach millions! -There is still a lot to improve and figure out for a boat of that size! But as Ali Skanda says: -"Kila kitu inaweze kana." - Everything is possible :) - -Hope this was insightful or at least a bit inspiring 🙃 - -Want to get involved? âœ‰ï¸ theflipflopi@gmail.com -Or become a supporter (yay!) 👠https://www.patreon.com/theflipflopi \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-flipflopi-boat/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-flipflopi-boat/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 595a6c2d7..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-flipflopi-boat/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### We made a plan - - With Ali Skanda we made a plan and designed the boat. -The goal originally was (and still is), to build a boat which would be big enough to travel the message against single-use plastic overseas. - -Here some of the sketches to get an overview of the boat components. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-flipflopi-boat/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-flipflopi-boat/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 933563dfb..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-flipflopi-boat/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### We tested manufacturers - - As the approach was to have everything made locally in Kenya, a big challenge was (still is) to find collaborations with recycling manufacturers who deliver quality materials, reliably. - -We started at at point where they were mixing plastic types together or even add sawdust or sand (as a “stiffenerâ€) and it’s already a success to have them working with only one type of plastic, without anything else mixed in. - -Part of this was getting material samples and testing joineries which would be used in the boat. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-flipflopi-boat/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-flipflopi-boat/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index f0ca23120..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-flipflopi-boat/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### We started - - With the processes more or less figured out, we started producing the recycled parts for a 24m boat! They were HUGE! - -The quality was very rough, but it was good to see that it was possible. And as this hasn’t been done before and was going to be a big investment, we decided to make a “smaller†9m prototype first. - -So in the next step you'll see how we actually made the Flipflopi Dogo (“dogo†= “small†in Kiswahili). \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-flipflopi-boat/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-flipflopi-boat/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 14e6be0ee..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-flipflopi-boat/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### The big parts - - The production of the BIG PARTS like keel and ribs was one of the biggest challenges. We managed to work with what we could get, with a lot of space for improvements! - -We collaborated with the closest plastic recycling manufacturer Regeneration Africa in Malindi, where they usually produce fencing posts and tiles. - -Here is an overview of their process. (second image). -We made over 30 metal moulds for different boat parts which were filled this way, using HDPE which is the most common and easiest type to collect separately (after PET). - -Sam and his team were a huge help to explore and figure out different processes and materials! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-flipflopi-boat/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-flipflopi-boat/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4bcabc77b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-flipflopi-boat/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### The planks - - For the planks we collaborated with other manufacturers in Nairobi, which also produce fencing posts as well as other construction material. - -It's a quite common practice there to mix in sawdust to make the material stiffer and cheaper to produce (but that material mix also breaks much easier than pure plastic). It took a couple of attempts, but in the end we managed to get the 100% recycled plastic planks. - -These planks were produced with professional, industrial machines, but could definitely be made with the Precious Plastic Extrusion Pro as well! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-flipflopi-boat/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-flipflopi-boat/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index 0dc843b11..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-flipflopi-boat/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### The flipflop sheets - - 40% of all the waste collected on the beaches were flipflops. -This is where the project got its name from and why flipflops were an obligatory element of this boat. - -So we covered the whole boat with sheets of recycled Flipflops, giving it a very colourful look and adding an extra protective layer (the whole boat feels like a big yoga mat :)) - -The sheets were made by local flipflop artist James who cuts the flipflops into pieces, glues them together and sands them to an even sheet. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-flipflopi-boat/step_8.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-flipflopi-boat/step_8.md deleted file mode 100644 index d4172ed00..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-flipflopi-boat/step_8.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11 +0,0 @@ -### The boat build - - Time to build the boat! -Starting with the keel, the ribs and connection parts, -then making the hull with the extruded planks, -and finishing with the colourful Flipflop sheets. - -Other than using this new material, the boatbuilders made the boat in their traditional way, meaning that they used very basic tools (every screw was inserted with a hand drill and a screwdriver!). - -This is obviously something we won't be able to teach you here - that's what you need a boatbuilder for! :) - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-flipflopi-boat/step_9.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-flipflopi-boat/step_9.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8c8508d00..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-flipflopi-boat/step_9.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Sail! - - Alright, now we only had to add (second hand) parts from other sailing boats like the mast, boom, sail and ropes. And were finally ready to do what the boat was meant to be for: Sailing around Kenya to create awareness around the problem and inspire local communities to be part of a positive change! - -On our first expedition the boat sailed smoothly for more than 500km from the north of Kenya to Zanzibar, carried its passengers safely while creating excitement and fascination everywhere we went! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-plstico-fantstico-recycling-bicycle-shredder/Step_10_-_Image_2.jpg b/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-plstico-fantstico-recycling-bicycle-shredder/Step_10_-_Image_2.jpg deleted file mode 100644 index cbadb504d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-plstico-fantstico-recycling-bicycle-shredder/Step_10_-_Image_2.jpg +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -version https://git-lfs.github.com/spec/v1 -oid sha256:52cc651b42249bb59a7ab5229f2b125226de57af2eec43c51ae47677aa29d55d -size 479697 diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-plstico-fantstico-recycling-bicycle-shredder/Step_10_-_Image_3.jpg b/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-plstico-fantstico-recycling-bicycle-shredder/Step_10_-_Image_3.jpg deleted file mode 100644 index 33618b3e7..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-plstico-fantstico-recycling-bicycle-shredder/Step_10_-_Image_3.jpg +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -version https://git-lfs.github.com/spec/v1 -oid sha256:814fbc0052e1d2e4b0a3980035977fd4956467b19e84f4cca1c60055cbffb198 -size 326755 diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-plstico-fantstico-recycling-bicycle-shredder/Step_10_-_Image_4.jpg b/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-plstico-fantstico-recycling-bicycle-shredder/Step_10_-_Image_4.jpg deleted file mode 100644 index d101ac6b8..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-plstico-fantstico-recycling-bicycle-shredder/Step_10_-_Image_4.jpg +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -version https://git-lfs.github.com/spec/v1 -oid sha256:cbf63b58e74ca14ad307911e773ed699792aba5c69b7e7157f8155b52c63317c -size 287651 diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-plstico-fantstico-recycling-bicycle-shredder/Step_1_-_Image_1.jpg b/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-plstico-fantstico-recycling-bicycle-shredder/Step_1_-_Image_1.jpg deleted file mode 100644 index c8e3b6f86..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-plstico-fantstico-recycling-bicycle-shredder/Step_1_-_Image_1.jpg +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -version https://git-lfs.github.com/spec/v1 -oid sha256:d2944ceaf388f4dbcad10968cae1e99261d36e117568806289b1da85f4464eb1 -size 291659 diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-plstico-fantstico-recycling-bicycle-shredder/Step_1_-_Image_2.jpg b/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-plstico-fantstico-recycling-bicycle-shredder/Step_1_-_Image_2.jpg deleted file mode 100644 index 9be39daca..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-plstico-fantstico-recycling-bicycle-shredder/Step_1_-_Image_2.jpg +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -version https://git-lfs.github.com/spec/v1 -oid sha256:aa16b29893ba82ebda6134b0e37eb7ceeccb88e02bf2e938a810f25957ae35c4 -size 472143 diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-plstico-fantstico-recycling-bicycle-shredder/Step_2_-_Image_3.jpg b/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-plstico-fantstico-recycling-bicycle-shredder/Step_2_-_Image_3.jpg deleted file mode 100644 index 7d002ffed..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-plstico-fantstico-recycling-bicycle-shredder/Step_2_-_Image_3.jpg +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -version https://git-lfs.github.com/spec/v1 -oid sha256:854eb7ff9bcdbd9b0e115cde28225142aeee336bf1321010ba6a6b751e397b21 -size 174307 diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-plstico-fantstico-recycling-bicycle-shredder/Step_3_-_Image_1.jpg b/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-plstico-fantstico-recycling-bicycle-shredder/Step_3_-_Image_1.jpg deleted file mode 100644 index b5834df47..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-plstico-fantstico-recycling-bicycle-shredder/Step_3_-_Image_1.jpg +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -version https://git-lfs.github.com/spec/v1 -oid sha256:dbf4fade39f702c32406bb14631af13bd711b96c24a10a94df70b6f9551bb976 -size 460495 diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-plstico-fantstico-recycling-bicycle-shredder/Step_5_-_Image_2.jpg b/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-plstico-fantstico-recycling-bicycle-shredder/Step_5_-_Image_2.jpg deleted file mode 100644 index ad03fa605..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-plstico-fantstico-recycling-bicycle-shredder/Step_5_-_Image_2.jpg +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -version https://git-lfs.github.com/spec/v1 -oid sha256:4f803aa4e500a24db7f133479f5f6900d5c7542f41d3646257ac7ec2a121663a -size 320614 diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-plstico-fantstico-recycling-bicycle-shredder/Step_6_-_Image_1.jpg b/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-plstico-fantstico-recycling-bicycle-shredder/Step_6_-_Image_1.jpg deleted file mode 100644 index e579eac65..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-plstico-fantstico-recycling-bicycle-shredder/Step_6_-_Image_1.jpg +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -version https://git-lfs.github.com/spec/v1 -oid sha256:28a3b877ca7976b687b58368a12f4cb671d1ccb63bd3fa5f0aaa83699d6bb122 -size 358936 diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-plstico-fantstico-recycling-bicycle-shredder/Step_8_-_Image_1.jpg b/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-plstico-fantstico-recycling-bicycle-shredder/Step_8_-_Image_1.jpg deleted file mode 100644 index 13a162a8b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-plstico-fantstico-recycling-bicycle-shredder/Step_8_-_Image_1.jpg +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -version https://git-lfs.github.com/spec/v1 -oid sha256:4874f3894e2e3b89f11fe929ed06ac9cd0343382d630fcd535aaffbb5ef0fbd0 -size 458766 diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-plstico-fantstico-recycling-bicycle-shredder/Step_9_-_Image_9.jpg b/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-plstico-fantstico-recycling-bicycle-shredder/Step_9_-_Image_9.jpg deleted file mode 100644 index 03c17f5d1..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-plstico-fantstico-recycling-bicycle-shredder/Step_9_-_Image_9.jpg +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -version https://git-lfs.github.com/spec/v1 -oid sha256:1d1f87cea7a9993d8c61fe058bd893787151b005b33e8b09b324626c6a755c0d -size 397099 diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-plstico-fantstico-recycling-bicycle-shredder/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-plstico-fantstico-recycling-bicycle-shredder/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 93a466002..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-plstico-fantstico-recycling-bicycle-shredder/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Make the ‘Plástico Fantástico’ Recycling Bicycle Shredder - - -The adapted bicycle shredder combines the power of shredding with the joy of cycling so you can collect and shred plastic ready for moulding as you travel from place to place. The adaptation has taken influence form Precious Plastic Shredder that was adapted for use on a bicycle. - -For more information about the adaptation please reach out via Instagram to ‘@​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​jam_goreing’ - -Or see the 3 minute project video at (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IoSn84Axao8) diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-plstico-fantstico-recycling-bicycle-shredder/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-plstico-fantstico-recycling-bicycle-shredder/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2dfc66e2d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-plstico-fantstico-recycling-bicycle-shredder/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Create the Shredder and Housing - - The basic design and instructions for the shredder can be found on the Precious Plastic Instruction pages (https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/build/shredder). - -Initially the number of shredder blades will need to be reduced down to around 9 from the original design so that the shredder is thin and light enough to be mounted on the back of a bicycle, however more can be incorporated if desired. The depth of the shredder housing will then need to be scaled down in co-ordination with the reduced number of blades. -For the housing, aluminium or steel can be used so long as the blades and spacers are still made of steel. Using aluminium will mean that the housing has to be bolted together instead of welded. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-plstico-fantstico-recycling-bicycle-shredder/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-plstico-fantstico-recycling-bicycle-shredder/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 56b1af148..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-plstico-fantstico-recycling-bicycle-shredder/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### The Plastic Collection Tray - - The housing will need to be elongated downwards to allow for a collection tray for the shredded plastic that can sit underneath the shredder blades. The housing needs to be elongated down around 50mm allowing a space in the middle for the collection tray as illustrated in the images. The collection tray itself is made of clear acrylic that then slots together. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-plstico-fantstico-recycling-bicycle-shredder/step_10.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-plstico-fantstico-recycling-bicycle-shredder/step_10.md deleted file mode 100644 index 772059c29..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-plstico-fantstico-recycling-bicycle-shredder/step_10.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### 11 - Gears - - In regards to gearing I looked to use a ratio 4.6:1 where I had 4.6 revolutions of the crank to 1 revolution of the shredder with the intention to reduce the speed of the shredder but increase the torque. The reality was slightly off, I placed the chain connected to the pedal on the inner gear of the cassette (largest) and the chain attached to the shredder on the outer gear of the cassette (smallest) and this proved to work. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-plstico-fantstico-recycling-bicycle-shredder/step_11.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-plstico-fantstico-recycling-bicycle-shredder/step_11.md deleted file mode 100644 index 61fa6e7db..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-plstico-fantstico-recycling-bicycle-shredder/step_11.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Finishing and Using - - Once the shredder is installed and the chain attached its time to use the pedal power to shred some plastic! -It can be used to shred all sorts of plastic the best proved to be HDPE as this was softer and easier to shred when pedalling. The shredded plastic can then be used to create new plastic inventions such as simple flat cladding panels. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-plstico-fantstico-recycling-bicycle-shredder/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-plstico-fantstico-recycling-bicycle-shredder/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 1f385e267..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-plstico-fantstico-recycling-bicycle-shredder/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Create the Shredder Support Base - - The shredder will need a solid base to sit for when it is attached to a bicycle to allow for the weight of the shredder and the force placed upon it when shredding. In most circumstances a traditional bicycle back rack will be sufficient for this task, the back rack can be mounted to the bike and then adapted to secure the shredder. -During my experiment I did not know exactly which bicycle I was going to use, as I planned to rent one when I reached the project testing location of Chile. Due to this I had to create a support frame that would fix to a variety of bicycles. -During my installation the shredder sat on an aluminium support base that had three steel rods bolted to it to create the supporting connection to the bicycle. The central steel rod was attached to the Seatpost via a second Seat Collar around the Seatpost. The two side rods attached to the Seat Stray and at the end of each rod a 0.5mm thickness steel plate was connected that could be wrapped around the frame by hand. An old inner tube acted as a rubber lining to fix the support frame to the bicycle and stop it sliding down. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-plstico-fantstico-recycling-bicycle-shredder/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-plstico-fantstico-recycling-bicycle-shredder/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index bff83ddd2..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-plstico-fantstico-recycling-bicycle-shredder/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### The Hopper Frame - - The hopper is made of clear acyclic along with the shredded plastic collection tray, located under the blades. The hopper will need to be bolted to the top of the shredder housing to lock it in place. A simple aluminium-casing frame can be built around the hopper for aesthetic purposes. This can incorporate at the rear, storage for all the collected waste plastic before it is shredded. Alternative designs can be implemented, as this does not affect the shredding ability or the stability of the hopper. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-plstico-fantstico-recycling-bicycle-shredder/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-plstico-fantstico-recycling-bicycle-shredder/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 222bd8134..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-plstico-fantstico-recycling-bicycle-shredder/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Gears and Ball Bearings - - A used bicycle square taper bottom bracket and corresponding crank and crank bolt will need to be acquired to be able to attach the gear to the shredder. The steel square tapered end of the bottom bracket is first cut off with an angle grinder. - -A sealed ball bearing will be needed to allow the blades to spin on the axle. The ball bearing needs to allow the thickest end of the taper to fit through it. In my case the square taper had a maximum diameter of 16mm and so a sealed ball bearing with an inner diameter of 17mm was used. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-plstico-fantstico-recycling-bicycle-shredder/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-plstico-fantstico-recycling-bicycle-shredder/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index d53d6dbd1..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-plstico-fantstico-recycling-bicycle-shredder/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Preparing the Blade Axle - - The axle for the blades is as per the Precious Plastic instructional video; a hexagonal axle that is lathe down to be round at either end. The axle is lathe down at either end to be the same diameter as the inner diameter of the ball bearing. It is important to ensure there is no gap between the axle and the ball bearing when they are fitted together. - -The very end of the now rounded axle (last 5mm) then has to be lathe down further to the diameter of the crank bolt thread. The cut off square taper is already threaded all the way through the centre and so the axle (once lathe down to the thread thickness) can sit within this to centre the square taper on the axle ready for welding. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-plstico-fantstico-recycling-bicycle-shredder/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-plstico-fantstico-recycling-bicycle-shredder/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index afb965209..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-plstico-fantstico-recycling-bicycle-shredder/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Attaching the Gear - - Next, the cut off square taper will need to be welded onto the axle. Once the square taper is welded on and lathe down so that it can be thread back through the ball bearing the gear can be attached using the crank bolt to hold it tightly in place. - -The crank arm will need to be cut off using an angle grinder, then again using the angle grinder the crank can be shaped to smooth it back and create a formed shape. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-plstico-fantstico-recycling-bicycle-shredder/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-plstico-fantstico-recycling-bicycle-shredder/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index 61e048352..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-plstico-fantstico-recycling-bicycle-shredder/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Securing the ball bearing in place - - A ball bearing housing will need to be made to securely hold the ball bearing and therefore the axle in place. The ball bearing housing will need to be made of layers of laser cut aluminium or steel where the total thickness of all the layers equates to the thickness of the ball bearing and has a circular hole cut which is the same diameter as the outside diameter of the ball bearing to hold it securely in place. An end cap with a diameter in-between the inside and outside diameter of the ball bearing will also be needed to stop the ball bearing sliding out. Any shape can be made as long as it is attached to the shredder housing and holds the ball bearing in tight. - -I found that I additionally needed 1.5mm spacers on the inside of the ball bearing to stop it moving and keep it locked securely in place. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-plstico-fantstico-recycling-bicycle-shredder/step_8.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-plstico-fantstico-recycling-bicycle-shredder/step_8.md deleted file mode 100644 index a610108ce..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-plstico-fantstico-recycling-bicycle-shredder/step_8.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Securing the shredder in place - - Once the shredder is assembled with the axle and gear securely connected and the shredder bolted to the support frame the chain and gearing can next be considered. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-plstico-fantstico-recycling-bicycle-shredder/step_9.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-plstico-fantstico-recycling-bicycle-shredder/step_9.md deleted file mode 100644 index 01d2db898..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-the-plstico-fantstico-recycling-bicycle-shredder/step_9.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Attaching the chain - - The chain attached to the shredder is the connecting element that allows the bike to shred and so it is important to ensure the gearing is correct and the chain is tight once installed. I used a quick release chain as this allowed me to quickly adjust the chain to the correct length then thread it around the gears before tightening. - -In my process I did not use a derailleur to keep the chain tight instead I used the adjust-ability of the support frame to tighten the chain by raising the Seatpost that was connected to the shredder support base and so pulled the shredder up tightening the chain. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-your-own-laptop-stand-59390/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-your-own-laptop-stand-59390/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index b1bbefd86..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-your-own-laptop-stand-59390/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Make your own laptop stand - - -Introducing our eco-friendly laptop stand, crafted from recycled plastic sheets. This innovative laptop stand is designed with ergonomics in mind, offering a perfect blend of sustainability and comfort. The thoughtfully engineered design elevates your laptop to eye level, promoting a healthier posture and reducing strain on your neck and shoulders. Made from durable recycled plastic, this stand not only supports your well-being but also contributes to a greener planet by repurposing materials that would otherwise go to waste. Elevate your work setup and embrace eco-conscious ergonomics with our recycled plastic laptop stand. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-your-own-laptop-stand-59390/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-your-own-laptop-stand-59390/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 593b48811..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-your-own-laptop-stand-59390/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Prepare your tools! - - You will need: - -- 1 HDPE 45x45x1 cm ( in case it´s thicker than 1cm adjust cnc file ) -- cnc machine ( or someone that provides de cutting service ) -- chisel -- sandpaper \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-your-own-laptop-stand-59390/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-your-own-laptop-stand-59390/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index e0d8f6ae5..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-your-own-laptop-stand-59390/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### File in the CNC machine - - Use the file converted to the cnc machine. -- Take into account the diameter of the cnc milling cutter so the dimmensions of the parts do not change. --Make sure to vacuum the microplastics in order to be able to transform them again into plastic sheets ( we usually use this kind to prototype new products ) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-your-own-laptop-stand-59390/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-your-own-laptop-stand-59390/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 04eee51ac..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-your-own-laptop-stand-59390/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Soften the edges - - The cnc machine leaves a support, now its time to get rid off it with the chisel, and after that we can soften the edges with the sandpaper. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-your-own-laptop-stand-59390/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-your-own-laptop-stand-59390/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 963a6a830..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-your-own-laptop-stand-59390/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Assemble and enjoy! - - Now you can use your laptop stand assembling by fitting its pieces together :) - -Https://www.instagram.com/reel/CrwQ3O9paN-/ ( here´s a short video guide ) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-your-own-laptop-stand/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-your-own-laptop-stand/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index a356e722a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-your-own-laptop-stand/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Make your own laptop stand - - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-your-own-laptop-stand/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-your-own-laptop-stand/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index bc8fd8bb5..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-your-own-laptop-stand/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Prepare your tools! - - You will need: - -- 1 HDPE 45x45x1 cm ( in case it´s thicker than 1cm adjust cnc file ) -- chisel -- sandpaper \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-your-own-laptop-stand/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-your-own-laptop-stand/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8bd5107d3..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-your-own-laptop-stand/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### File in the CNC machine - - Use the file converted to the cnc machine. - --Make sure to vacuum the microplastics in order to be able to transform them again into plastic sheets ( we usually use this kind to prototype new products ) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-your-own-laptop-stand/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-your-own-laptop-stand/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 765c4796c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-your-own-laptop-stand/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### - - \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-your-own-laptop-stand/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-your-own-laptop-stand/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index faee0a047..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-your-own-laptop-stand/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Polish de edges - - \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-your-own-laptop-stand/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-your-own-laptop-stand/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index bfc4f20ff..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-your-own-laptop-stand/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Assemble! - - \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-your-sheet-shiny/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-your-sheet-shiny/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 96f3e0fdd..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-your-sheet-shiny/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Make your sheet shiny - - -Getting the best look in your sheets is as important as the process of making them. Having a few details in mind will help you to make the most out of your product. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-your-sheet-shiny/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-your-sheet-shiny/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 81110b564..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-your-sheet-shiny/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Different material, different finishing - - First of all, the finishing potentials and techniques depend a lot on the material. -Hard materials like PS are easy to polish and it’s just a matter of repeating the process with higher grain sanding paper. For softer materials like PP or HDPE this process makes it more matt instead. - -If you really require a shiny result then the best choice is to work with PS. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-your-sheet-shiny/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-your-sheet-shiny/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 3c70686c4..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-your-sheet-shiny/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Treat your mould - - For a high quality product, a high quality mould is the key! -In order to create a clean and shiny sheet, you need a very smooth and shiny mould. It might take time to get there but it will pay off in the end: The shinier the mould is,the shinier will be the result of your sheets (and less finishing work to do). - -Mould material:
 -For a shiny plastic sheet we recommend to use a stainless steel mould, as it’s a good material to polish. But take care because it’s also easy to scratch and fairly more expensive than other metals. - -Mould treatment: -We suggest to use silicon oil as mould release in order to protect the mould during the process and help demoulding the material. Also pay attention to clean the mould after every cycle in order to extend the mould life, and to keep a good output quality. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-your-sheet-shiny/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-your-sheet-shiny/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 822e0750e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-your-sheet-shiny/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### From sanding to polishing - - For a smooth and even surface we first have to sand it with low density grain sanding paper (from 200-800). This will remove the surface layer and clean the sheet from scratches and tiny holes. - -For deeper scratches you’ll have to spend more time or even use lower density sanding paper. Once the scratches are no longer visible you can use higher density grain papers in order to polish the surface. - -In the case of hard plastics like PS you can get shiny results while on HDPE or PP they will remain matt. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-your-sheet-shiny/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-your-sheet-shiny/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 5e9aa77c7..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-your-sheet-shiny/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Polish paste to make it shine - - For the final step we apply polishing paste and carefully finish the surface with a soft sanding disk. Make sure the disk is clean, otherwise the material may change its colour. - -Polish until the paste disappears and the result is shiny. Finish by using a clean humid rag to remove any dust left. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-your-sheet-shiny/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-your-sheet-shiny/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index f20e92260..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-your-sheet-shiny/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Learn from your results - - Each material behaves a bit differently, so it's always a testing and learning which mould material and technique works best for which plastic type. - -Here we have two samples: -A sheet out of a mild steel mould. Polishing it afterwards made it smooth and cleaned it from dirt of the mould. -A sheet out of a very smooth stainless steel mould. No polishing was needed as it came out very shiny! - -Feel free to try out different mould materials yourself and always compare your results to learn which technique works best for different products and plastic types. :) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-your-shelf/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-your-shelf/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index ea2082772..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-your-shelf/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Make your shelf - - -Learn to build shelves or small furniture using the extruder and the injection machine. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-your-shelf/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-your-shelf/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 88f42e38a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-your-shelf/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Make the beam - - We will use a square tube 2cm in diameter and 40cm long. You don't need to screw it in, you can hold it carefully not to burn yourself by hand. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-your-shelf/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-your-shelf/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index d481d5504..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-your-shelf/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Cut and drill holes - - For this model we have used: - -- 35.5cm x 3 -- 19,5cm x 2 -- 14cm x 2 -- 18cm x 2 - -Feel free to make your modifications if you need it bigger or smaller. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-your-shelf/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-your-shelf/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 83c1da60e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-your-shelf/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Assemble the base - - Using the mold for the injection machine with a square shape and measures of 14cm x 14cm. We will make 8 units that we can easily glue or screw. - -If you liked it, you can follow our project and see all our products at www.menorplastic.com - -Thanks for your support 😊 \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-your-shredder-single-phase-with-reverse-mode/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-your-shredder-single-phase-with-reverse-mode/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index ceaa6cb98..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-your-shredder-single-phase-with-reverse-mode/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Make Your Shredder Single-Phase With Reverse Mode - - -This How-To will show you the way to convert your three phase single direction shredder into a new single phase-reverse function shredder. Which means that you would be able to plug it in anyplace you go. This is quite usefull if you like to go around with your shredder or if your workspace has only single-phase electricity. - -The reverse function is quite cool when your shredder gets jammed. - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-your-shredder-single-phase-with-reverse-mode/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-your-shredder-single-phase-with-reverse-mode/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 1ac7d7d00..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-your-shredder-single-phase-with-reverse-mode/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,17 +0,0 @@ -### Gather your material - - Before starting to conect the cables you will need: - -- Motor (this case is a threephase 1.5kW) -- VFD (according to the motor) -- Cables (different colors helps to identify ground, neutro and phase) -- 2 position switch (16A) -- 3 position switch (16A) -- Emergency button (16A) -- Magneto-thermal switch (16A P+N type C or D) -- Plug (16A) -- Conection stripe -- Electronics box - - - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-your-shredder-single-phase-with-reverse-mode/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-your-shredder-single-phase-with-reverse-mode/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 1f34b43d5..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-your-shredder-single-phase-with-reverse-mode/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Choose your VFD - - If you can access to a VFD it is highly reccomended and your motor and machine would be thankfull if you do it. Besides that also your electricity supply will be thankfull too (doesn´t matter if you run your shredder in solar, batteries, water, or you are just conected to the grid). If you cannot access to a VFD you can also tryout to run your motor in single phase using capacitors. - -This time I have used a VFD Delta 1.5kW singlephase but you can use any VFD that fits your needs. -Important that you use one able to handle the watts of your motor or above, the volts input of your motor and important the VFD uses single-phase input. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-your-shredder-single-phase-with-reverse-mode/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-your-shredder-single-phase-with-reverse-mode/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index aba69c0cf..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-your-shredder-single-phase-with-reverse-mode/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Gather your tools - - Gather your tools: - -- Soldering station -- Pliers -- Scredriver -- Wire cutter - -These are the tools I have used, but probably can skip soldering station if you cannot access to one. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-your-shredder-single-phase-with-reverse-mode/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-your-shredder-single-phase-with-reverse-mode/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7dd3108a4..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-your-shredder-single-phase-with-reverse-mode/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Rewire your motor - - Most of electric motors have 2 wiring positions depending the voltage you are using to run them. This 2 options use to be star connection or triangle conection. In my case I will change from a 380v input to a 230v input by changing the position of the little plates in between the conections. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-your-shredder-single-phase-with-reverse-mode/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-your-shredder-single-phase-with-reverse-mode/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index d18556d75..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-your-shredder-single-phase-with-reverse-mode/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Graphic circuit diagram - - It is time to wire everything. - - - -SAFETY TIP: Try to wire them in the conection stripe in one side all your line conections and in the other side neutral conections then put in the middle all your grounds together. This would avoid more likely short-circuits in your machine. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-your-shredder-single-phase-with-reverse-mode/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-your-shredder-single-phase-with-reverse-mode/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 79676ef45..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-your-shredder-single-phase-with-reverse-mode/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Set up your VFD - - This could be the most boring step, but, it is the last one, so afterwards comes the proud moment. - -There are a few parameters you should set up before turning on your machine to make it run safely and smooth. These parameters have a lot to do with your motor, so get your motor specs before starting. (These are engraved on a little metal sheet in your motor) -I would recommend you to find your VFD manual for this stage. - -In this case I will show you the parameters for a DELTA VFD015EL21A and a 1.5kW 3phase motor. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/make-your-shredder-single-phase-with-reverse-mode/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/make-your-shredder-single-phase-with-reverse-mode/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9a493649b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/make-your-shredder-single-phase-with-reverse-mode/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Time to shred! - - You are done! It´s time to put plastic inside and enjoy your flakes to create new products out of the plastic of your neighbourhood! - -If you have questions or something is not clear for you, you can always ask in Discord or contacting us in IG: @​​fairenough.studio or by email at contact.fairenough@gmail.com \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/making-a-squat-stool/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/making-a-squat-stool/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index c938e951c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/making-a-squat-stool/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### making a Squat Stool - - -I am a flat pack design utility add on to existing toilets using english WC's to heal correcting the posture which improves the internal architecture of human body and heals many of stomach related disfunctions, improves the digestion system. -Me realized in the young generation of today's to correct the posture of using WC the way it was suppose \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/making-a-squat-stool/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/making-a-squat-stool/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index e482393a5..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/making-a-squat-stool/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Take sheet of 12mm thickness - - The sheet has to be of 12mm for the exact grooving composition, and size can be of 4ftx 4ft. If your sheet thickness varies then 12mm please adjust the grooves in cad file \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/making-a-squat-stool/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/making-a-squat-stool/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 12d6c8bf2..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/making-a-squat-stool/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Get cad file in CNC machine - - The cad file is supposed to be converted in cnc machine file format and let the machine do its job, \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/making-a-squat-stool/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/making-a-squat-stool/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 845e68193..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/making-a-squat-stool/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Buff the edges - - Buff the edges for a cleaner finish \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/making-a-squat-stool/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/making-a-squat-stool/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4bea31448..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/making-a-squat-stool/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Assemble the product - - assemble the product as mentioned in the following document. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/making-pen-blanks-to-turn-into-pens-on-a-lathe/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/making-pen-blanks-to-turn-into-pens-on-a-lathe/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 500f1a0f5..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/making-pen-blanks-to-turn-into-pens-on-a-lathe/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Making Pen Blanks to turn into pens on a lathe - - -This video shows the process I use to create pen blanks. Pen blanks are what are used in a lathe to make pens. - -The video shows you the tools that I use and the steps that I take to make the blanks, explaining why I do the task the way I do. - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/making-pen-blanks-to-turn-into-pens-on-a-lathe/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/making-pen-blanks-to-turn-into-pens-on-a-lathe/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 91a1f418b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/making-pen-blanks-to-turn-into-pens-on-a-lathe/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Making the blanks - - The following Youtube video explains the whole process. - - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/mattia-testing-drafts/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/mattia-testing-drafts/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 48439801e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/mattia-testing-drafts/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### mattia testing drafts - - -Checkin gintensity \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/mattia-testing-drafts/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/mattia-testing-drafts/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index ade368338..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/mattia-testing-drafts/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Get the material for the mould - - albd \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/mobile-plastic-recycling-unit-/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/mobile-plastic-recycling-unit-/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 381e8f168..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/mobile-plastic-recycling-unit-/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Mobile Plastic Recycling Unit - - -In this Project, we made a Moblie Plastic Recycling Unit through which we can recycle plastic at multiple locations and initiate the recycling process at the source, and also provide training along the process. - -This setup is placed on an electric vehicle which further adds to reducing carbon emissions and also tried operating the system on a solar panel. - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/mobile-plastic-recycling-unit-/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/mobile-plastic-recycling-unit-/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9ee05c8d6..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/mobile-plastic-recycling-unit-/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,24 +0,0 @@ -### Planning the setup - - Few key aspects to consider while planning - -1. Selecting the right vehicle for the project that can fit all your machines and can handle their weight. - -2. Considering a stable platform during the operations - -3. Strong and stable chassis to bear the weight and can abrobe the vibration in terms of shredder - - - -We selected an electrical Vehicle as it will reduce the carbon footprint and can also be customized according to our requirements. - - -We tried designing in a way where we can increase the working area and can also add a foldable roof that will further help during the bad weather. - - -We have a working area of 8 x 7 feet and we tried to install 2 machines in it. We had 2 vehicles so we managed to put shredder, injection and Extrusion. - - - - - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/mobile-plastic-recycling-unit-/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/mobile-plastic-recycling-unit-/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 79905b592..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/mobile-plastic-recycling-unit-/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,17 +0,0 @@ -### Making the body of the unit - - We started with the outer body of the unit as we have few constrians like weight, size and durability. - - -First we made a frame with metal tubes and then started covering it with metal sheets. - -We tried to keep the base more stable and stong as people will be standing on it while working on the machines. - -Roof height is adjutable up to 7 feet and could be lower to 4.5 feet. Roof side is made with pannels - -Roofing is done with metal tube and fiber sheets as we have weight limitations with the whole system. - -We added a wooden base as a flooring and painted everything nicely. - - - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/mobile-plastic-recycling-unit-/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/mobile-plastic-recycling-unit-/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8595b8655..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/mobile-plastic-recycling-unit-/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,15 +0,0 @@ -### Machine Installation - - While installing the machines we worked on few things like - -1. Proper weight distribution of the machine on each vehicle - -2. Bolting the machine with the base so that it will stick to the base during travel and operations. - - -Shredder was the heavier, so it we placed a single shredder on one vehicle due to overall weight distribution. - -On another vehicle we placed Extrusion and Injection machine keeping some space in between to work safely and easily on the setup. - - -We made a small panel on the vehicle which could be connected with both solar and main power grid as per requirement. Machines are connected with that panel and also consist of the main switch. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/mobile-plastic-recycling-unit-/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/mobile-plastic-recycling-unit-/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 3918e2bd2..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/mobile-plastic-recycling-unit-/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Test Run - - After installation we did a test run to check the working of the machine. Tested the stability of the overall setup and also added some supporting structures around the vehicle. - - -Overall process is quite easy once you figure out the type of space you are planning for. - -We did several mistakes during the process but willing to help if anyone is trying for same. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/modular-interconnecting-formwork/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/modular-interconnecting-formwork/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index b6790a94d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/modular-interconnecting-formwork/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Modular Interconnecting Formwork - - -This tutorial will explain, in general terms, how to use recycled plastic bricks to build a formwork for construction with concrete. Formwork functions as a mould for poured mediums in the construction, and in this case, the bricks function as a removable and reusable tool for building that form. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/modular-interconnecting-formwork/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/modular-interconnecting-formwork/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index d657d6e37..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/modular-interconnecting-formwork/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Understanding formwork as a mould for construction - - Formwork is used to create frames to pour concrete,rammed earth or other mediums in the construction industry. These are traditionally made out of wood but we can also make them from recycled plastic 🙂 - - -We suggest to start small, learn how it works, iterate and expand your ideas. Costs can vary greatly depending on your build. - -The existing Precious Plastic brick designs, combined with thin sheets made on the sheetpress will allow you to start formworking. However drawings of a mould for a brick that's optimised for formworking are available at the Thingiverse link, and a How To describing how to machine this will be coming shortly. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/modular-interconnecting-formwork/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/modular-interconnecting-formwork/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2d22b611b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/modular-interconnecting-formwork/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,30 +0,0 @@ -### Tools, skills & materials required - - Hearing & eye protection -Safety boots -Dust mask -Skills in the operation of powertools, in particular drills -A safety induction into construction in your jurisdiction -Experience in mixing and pouring concrete -Enough bricks to build your desired formwork -Cement, sand & aggregate -Building design drawings -Impact driver & drill -Masonry drill bits & optional masonry drill -Self tapping timber screws -Reinforcing bar (rebar)* -Rebar ties & rebar tie tool -Starter bars, safety caps -Anchoring adhesive & applicating gun -Concrete mixer & plastic tubs -Concrete shovels -Steel brackets** -Concrete vibrator -Trowel -Hot glue gun & hot glue sticks -Stringline, chalk and/or construction spraypaint -Tape measure -Wire brush - -* You may need a tool to cut rebar to size. We used a reciprocating saw, but a grinder will also work. -** You will need a way to secure your steel brackets to the ground around your formwork. We used a combination of timber screws, formwork stakes & powder actuated fasteners. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/modular-interconnecting-formwork/step_10.md b/resources/howtos-oa/modular-interconnecting-formwork/step_10.md deleted file mode 100644 index ae9379001..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/modular-interconnecting-formwork/step_10.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Cleanup - - In our case, some of the seams were not well filled with hot glue, so concrete got into them. This can be avoided, but in case it’s an issue for you too, it’s a good idea to clean your bricks right after you’ve finished demoulding, as the concrete will still be weak and crumbly. Wear safety glasses and rub those bricks with a wire brush. - -If you had to screw into your bricks, holes can be filled with a hot glue gun, and sticks of the plastic you used to make your bricks. It’s not a bad idea to do this while you’re still on site, as next time when you use the bricks you might forget to inspect for cavities. - -In general, it’s a good idea to maintain a neat construction site, as any subsequent work carried out there can be affected by hazards you leave behind. So clean up your tools and materials once you’re done! - -Also, if relevant, remember to feed the horse. And to avoid the tiger snake. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/modular-interconnecting-formwork/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/modular-interconnecting-formwork/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8d7e047f1..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/modular-interconnecting-formwork/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Mark out your wall - - Using chalk, stringline, and/or spray paint and a drawing of the relevant parts of your structure, mark out where the wall you intend to build will be erected. - -We marked out our walls with green paint. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/modular-interconnecting-formwork/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/modular-interconnecting-formwork/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index b58d23da8..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/modular-interconnecting-formwork/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Install starter bars & rebar - - Drill holes in the slab to the thickness specified by your anchoring adhesive. Clear the holes of concrete dust. Inject the anchoring adhesive into the holes, and then install your starter bars. Be careful to follow the instructions of your adhesive. You may need to wait up to 24 hours for the adhesive to set. Take care to cover the starter bars with safety caps when they are unattended. - -Where required, install additional rebar for your wall using rebar ties and a rebar tie tool. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/modular-interconnecting-formwork/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/modular-interconnecting-formwork/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2433de4a2..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/modular-interconnecting-formwork/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Erect initial form - - Following the outside of the wall that was marked out in step #5, lay bricks in rows. If you have large seams between your bricks you may want to fill those with hot glue while you erect the formwork. A trowel and a piece of pipe will allow you to clean up your hot glue as you add it to the seams. Alternatively, you can use a thin sheet, potentially produced on a sheetpress, to cover the bricks. This can be taped to the bricks. It does not need to be secured particularly strongly, as the concrete will press it against the bricks tightly when poured. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/modular-interconnecting-formwork/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/modular-interconnecting-formwork/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7c465af45..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/modular-interconnecting-formwork/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Secure and brace form - - How you achieve this step will be dependent on your building site, and preferences, but our suggestion is to use small steel brackets, where you can screw them to timber, or nail them to a concrete slab. These brackets will serve the dual purpose of preventing the formwork from lifting from the ground, and preventing individual bricks from blowing outwards due to the static load of the poured concrete. - -Every brick at ground level must be supported from directly behind its main, concrete facing surface. And at least every third brick must be bolted to the ground to prevent the formwork rising. Every brick on the top row of your formwork should also be secured in some way to it’s neighbour. Both the top and the bottom row of your formwork are not supported by the teeth of other bricks, meaning that they will blow out if not secured via alternative means. - -Alternatives to steel brackets could include using simple chocks placed against the back of the main concrete facing surface. These c \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/modular-interconnecting-formwork/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/modular-interconnecting-formwork/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index 60b951ee8..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/modular-interconnecting-formwork/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Prepare to pour - - Before pouring concrete, it is crucial to inspect your formwork thoroughly for potential issues that could arise. Improperly secured bricks, large seams and a misaligned formwork will all result in a failure to build the wall that you intend. Concrete blowouts can be dangerous, and are nearly impossible to stop once they start due to the mass of the material involved. - -Once you are certain your formwork is secured, from top to bottom, arrange your concrete mixer, and concrete ingredients in a way that will allow you to easily pour the material into the form. - -Ensure you have enough time in the day to complete the pour before starting. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/modular-interconnecting-formwork/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/modular-interconnecting-formwork/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index 286eda87f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/modular-interconnecting-formwork/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Begin pouring - - To start with, mix enough concrete to build around 20-40mm of your wall. Shovel it into the formwork, and vibrate it into the corners. As you go, inspect the outer side of your formwork for concrete attempting to come out the bottom. Mix and pour slowly, while inspecting the bottom of your form as you go until you get to around 150mm above ground level. At this point you have cleared the first major hurdle. Let the concrete that you have already poured set for 90 minutes, as this will allow it to support the weight of subsequent pours, without as much risk of a blowout. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/modular-interconnecting-formwork/step_8.md b/resources/howtos-oa/modular-interconnecting-formwork/step_8.md deleted file mode 100644 index bb75236c3..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/modular-interconnecting-formwork/step_8.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Complete your pour - - Once the first run of concrete is hardening, you can increase the cadence of your pours. Ensure that you continue to inspect the formwork as you go higher. In our case we poured approximately 60L of concrete every half an hour after the first part of our wall, remembering to vibrate the air pockets out as we went. A faster cadence could be possible when using rapid set cement, however this would not be advisable on your first try as it may set either before you’ve vibrated it thoroughly, or in the case you have a blow out, it will be substantially harder to rectify the site. - -Once you reach the top of your formwork, use a trowel to make a nice surface at the top. Edging tools will allow you to create nice bevels on the corners of your wall. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/modular-interconnecting-formwork/step_9.md b/resources/howtos-oa/modular-interconnecting-formwork/step_9.md deleted file mode 100644 index 973ce7b4c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/modular-interconnecting-formwork/step_9.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Demould! - - Once the concrete starts to turn to a lighter grey, it is getting close to hard enough to remove your formwork. We waited for 36 hours so as to be sure it was set well enough to remain standing, but you may want to refer to the manufacturer’s specifications for the cement that you use, as well as details like the ambient temperature, which will affect the speed with which it sets. If in doubt, wait longer before starting this step. - -To demould, we started by undoing any fasteners we had at the top layer, and removing the bracing. Bricks were easily removed by rocking them back and forth, to lift them off the teeth underneath. Hot glue where used will break off easily. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/multishape-beads-mould/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/multishape-beads-mould/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 737b8df40..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/multishape-beads-mould/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Multishape beads mould - - -A mini beads mould to create various shapes at the same time! Can be used for any kind of jewellery creations. Here are the steps to make one! diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/multishape-beads-mould/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/multishape-beads-mould/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9c6cae522..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/multishape-beads-mould/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Bead shapes - - As we want different sizes and shapes of beads, we need to make the mould with cavity balance. You can design the shapes you desire for such jewellery just think about types/sizes of cords you would want to use them with (the bead hole in the mould should be bigger than the cords size about 3%) The bead holes should be aligned vertically with the mould detachment line. -So, we bisected each bead at its centre except the starred shape due to the CNC machine limitation if we placed it vertically. We need a dowel pin to make the bead hole instead. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/multishape-beads-mould/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/multishape-beads-mould/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 62153cf01..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/multishape-beads-mould/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### The mould - - There’re 16 bead cavities in our mould, the number of beads depends on the barrel capacity. You’d want to adjust the number of beads per mould as appropriate, just balance the mass of plastic on each side, according to the direction of plastic flow. Or please feel free to download our version down below! -Finally, the bottom and top parts are CNC-milled out of 2 blocks of aluminium and it comprises a total of 3 pieces; bottom and top parts made of aluminium, and a dowel pin for the star bead. The top part is attached to a bronze nipple (1/2inch NPT) diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/multishape-beads-mould/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/multishape-beads-mould/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index efe2f7e11..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/multishape-beads-mould/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Mould assembling - - Tools needed: Gloves, Mask, 17 Wrench, 4 Allen wrench -Machines needed: Injection machine and a shredder (or shredded plastics) - -Make sure the mould is clean then place the dowel pin in the star shape and connect the top and bottom parts, using the guide pin to help with the alignment. Insert the M10 bolts at 4 corners and 2 bolts counter bore in the 2 holes at the centre. Now, injection time! diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/multishape-beads-mould/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/multishape-beads-mould/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 83f725921..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/multishape-beads-mould/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Inject - - Put the shredded plastics into the injection machine, set the temperature at the proper melting point of your plastic types. After heating the machine (keep the handle bar down to have pressure on the plastic), lift the bar up and circle your mould in the injector (Don’t forget to wear a protective mask and gloves) Inject the melted plastic into the mould by pulling down the bar as hard as you can. Wait for a minute to maintain the pressure on the plastics (the duration depends on the plastic types as well) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/multishape-beads-mould/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/multishape-beads-mould/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index bc9da890e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/multishape-beads-mould/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Crack it open! - - Lift the bar up a little bit and unmould (don’t forget to close the injection to prevent the plastic dripping from the barrel) . Unscrew all bolts and use a slotted screwdriver to help open the mould along the marks. Hammer the plastic out of the mould from the back through the nozzle connector (make sure the plastic has cooled down enough and don’t forget to remove the dowel pin) diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/multishape-beads-mould/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/multishape-beads-mould/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2ebf3ad53..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/multishape-beads-mould/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Finishing - - Cut all excess parts with a plier and it’s time for your beautiful creations. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/necologica-key-hanger/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/necologica-key-hanger/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 00791ef3d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/necologica-key-hanger/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Necologica Key Hanger - - -It is an ideal key holder to use with carabiners. -At its ends you can hang glasses, keys, chinstraps. -It is attached to the wall with screws. -We start from a 5mm HDPE sheet. -*in the how to section, you can find how to make a recycled plastic sheet with various methods. Otherwise, in the bazaar or in the precious plastic network you can find someone to buy from. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/necologica-key-hanger/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/necologica-key-hanger/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index cbd2ba7be..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/necologica-key-hanger/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Ready set go - - Download the attached .dxf file and choose a 5mm thick sheet. Cut with cnc router. -*If this is your first time, we recommend using a 1-edged 4mm diameter mill for cuts. To make the bending, it is ideal to use a composite aluminum bending mill at a max depth of 3 mm diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/necologica-key-hanger/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/necologica-key-hanger/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8eeb731d1..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/necologica-key-hanger/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Folded - - Release all the pieces of the sheet and fold using a heat gun. Heat the area on both sides and push using a wooden rod or some other material that does not stick to the hot piece. Prior to this, make the wooden mold as seen in the image to cool, making two cuts the width of the key hanger. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/necologica-key-hanger/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/necologica-key-hanger/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index e8f0c448b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/necologica-key-hanger/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Placement - - Make two holes in the wall and use the necessary fixing elements according to the material to be drilled. First the part with the perforations must be fixed to the wall and then the second part must be embedded. -To place the horizontal we must thread from one of the sides, through one of the inserts. -Clever! The horizontal piece that holds the keys will not come off because it has a small grimace that prevents displacement. Enjoy the key hanger diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/necologica-key-hanger/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/necologica-key-hanger/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index fffc9b448..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/necologica-key-hanger/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Hang what you like - - Well, we already have the key hanger hanging! Now we can be creative and hang whatever we want. -In these images we show you what we usually hang. -Keys, with or without carabiner, facemasks, helmets, glasses, padlock. The key hanger is very practical and allows us to have what we always use within reach. We hope you share with us how you use it. - -Regards from Necochea, Argentina. -Necologica. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/needs-improvements-email-test/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/needs-improvements-email-test/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index c346a9cb5..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/needs-improvements-email-test/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Needs improvements email test - - -Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet. Est blanditiis quibusdam est ipsa exercitationem est velit porro ut facilis possimus id omnis fugit aut iusto dicta. Ea optio odit vel earum doloribus ut neque amet ut aperiam dolores. Sit laudantium quam eos perferendis officiis et nisi odit in veritatis magnam ut omnis odit. Ex numquam accusantium aut accusantium quod et commodi deleniti et porro perferendis aut quae soluta ab debitis nihil. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/needs-improvements-email-test/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/needs-improvements-email-test/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9718e280c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/needs-improvements-email-test/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet. Est blanditiis quibusd - - Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet. Est blanditiis quibusdam est ipsa exercitationem est velit porro ut facilis possimus id omnis fugit aut iusto dicta. Ea optio odit vel earum doloribus ut neque amet ut aperiam dolores. Sit laudantium quam eos perferendis officiis et nisi odit in veritatis magnam ut omnis odit. Ex numquam accusantium aut accusantium quod et commodi deleniti et porro perferendis aut quae soluta ab debitis nihil. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/needs-improvements-email-test/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/needs-improvements-email-test/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9718e280c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/needs-improvements-email-test/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet. Est blanditiis quibusd - - Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet. Est blanditiis quibusdam est ipsa exercitationem est velit porro ut facilis possimus id omnis fugit aut iusto dicta. Ea optio odit vel earum doloribus ut neque amet ut aperiam dolores. Sit laudantium quam eos perferendis officiis et nisi odit in veritatis magnam ut omnis odit. Ex numquam accusantium aut accusantium quod et commodi deleniti et porro perferendis aut quae soluta ab debitis nihil. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/needs-improvements-email-test/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/needs-improvements-email-test/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9718e280c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/needs-improvements-email-test/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet. Est blanditiis quibusd - - Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet. Est blanditiis quibusdam est ipsa exercitationem est velit porro ut facilis possimus id omnis fugit aut iusto dicta. Ea optio odit vel earum doloribus ut neque amet ut aperiam dolores. Sit laudantium quam eos perferendis officiis et nisi odit in veritatis magnam ut omnis odit. Ex numquam accusantium aut accusantium quod et commodi deleniti et porro perferendis aut quae soluta ab debitis nihil. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/new-mini-sheetpress/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/new-mini-sheetpress/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9036d13ec..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/new-mini-sheetpress/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### New mini sheetpress - - -PP sheetpress is only useful for pellets or HDPE chips, but we need solutions for all kinds of plastic, mostly flakes from our shredders.... boards larger than 1 m2 are not necessary for most of the furnitiure.... so we created a new way to make boards from the mix to really help nature ... and we need solutions also for remote places like islands, mountains ...nobody will transport trash from there to facilities \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/new-mini-sheetpress/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/new-mini-sheetpress/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index b8c676e26..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/new-mini-sheetpress/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### New way to press sheets - - We use the mix of plastic, but not PET, as there are established collections everywhere. We take what the system does not ... alu compounds, foams, tape, strings, nets, TV boxes, fridge boxes and everything you find on beaches, excluded PU from motorbike seats ... -We create hard surfaces that do not decay to microplastic as fast as PP,PE ... -Our press is cheap and can be transported in a car. Our boards are limited size 42×58×1 cm, which is sufficient for most of furnitiure, so we can add more value than by making bricks or tiles. See the last video on PACIFIC BEAUTY plastic. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/new-mini-sheetpress/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/new-mini-sheetpress/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 33ae396f8..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/new-mini-sheetpress/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Hard surface - - We fill a tray of 62×42×20 with a layer of EPS rocks and add some colorful HDPE or PP. This layer should be only 10 percent of the boards weigh, about 200 grams. Then we add 1800 grams of trash plastic mix. We put the tray in our toaster between 2 hot aluminium plates. The tray consists of 2 parts, so that it is easy to open and clean by steel brush. The iron sheets are thin , so that not much energy is necessary to heat it up. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/new-mini-sheetpress/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/new-mini-sheetpress/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 131e5472c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/new-mini-sheetpress/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### No smell, no fumes, no noise - - The tray with the hot plastic board is put into a second frame and fixed by clamps. One 50 cm clamp has a pressure of 500 kg, enough to keep it in shape while cooling The toaster is ready for the next board. It takes 20 minutes to heat a mass of 2 kg plastic by a system of 5 kW. You can't heat more quickly, as plastic does not transfer heat well and can't uptake much energy per time. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/new-sheetpress-/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/new-sheetpress-/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index a5dc86b7d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/new-sheetpress-/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### New sheetpress - - -PP sheetpress is only useful for pellets or HDPE chips, but we need solutions for all kinds of plastic, mostly flakes from our shredders.... boards larger than 1 m2 are not necessary for most of the furnitiure.... so we created a new way to make boards from the mix to really help nature ... and we need solutions also for remote places like islands, mountains ...nobody will transport trash from there to facilities \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/new-sheetpress-/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/new-sheetpress-/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index b8c676e26..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/new-sheetpress-/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### New way to press sheets - - We use the mix of plastic, but not PET, as there are established collections everywhere. We take what the system does not ... alu compounds, foams, tape, strings, nets, TV boxes, fridge boxes and everything you find on beaches, excluded PU from motorbike seats ... -We create hard surfaces that do not decay to microplastic as fast as PP,PE ... -Our press is cheap and can be transported in a car. Our boards are limited size 42×58×1 cm, which is sufficient for most of furnitiure, so we can add more value than by making bricks or tiles. See the last video on PACIFIC BEAUTY plastic. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/new-sheetpress-/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/new-sheetpress-/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 33ae396f8..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/new-sheetpress-/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Hard surface - - We fill a tray of 62×42×20 with a layer of EPS rocks and add some colorful HDPE or PP. This layer should be only 10 percent of the boards weigh, about 200 grams. Then we add 1800 grams of trash plastic mix. We put the tray in our toaster between 2 hot aluminium plates. The tray consists of 2 parts, so that it is easy to open and clean by steel brush. The iron sheets are thin , so that not much energy is necessary to heat it up. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/new-sheetpress-/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/new-sheetpress-/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 131e5472c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/new-sheetpress-/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### No smell, no fumes, no noise - - The tray with the hot plastic board is put into a second frame and fixed by clamps. One 50 cm clamp has a pressure of 500 kg, enough to keep it in shape while cooling The toaster is ready for the next board. It takes 20 minutes to heat a mass of 2 kg plastic by a system of 5 kW. You can't heat more quickly, as plastic does not transfer heat well and can't uptake much energy per time. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/no-touch-tool-with-3d-printed-mould/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/no-touch-tool-with-3d-printed-mould/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index b9d44790b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/no-touch-tool-with-3d-printed-mould/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### No Touch Tool with 3D printed mould - - -Create a tool for interacting with high contact areas such as door handles, pin pads, and light switches so your hands don't have to... helping prevent Covid-19 contamination spread! -Made from 3D printed nylon for a quick turnaround of moulds to address the problem as soon as possible. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/no-touch-tool-with-3d-printed-mould/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/no-touch-tool-with-3d-printed-mould/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8617c262f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/no-touch-tool-with-3d-printed-mould/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Make or buy the mould - - Nylon was used for the mould as it's melting temperature is much higher than that of LDPE which we use to make the No Touch Tools. We are conscious of consuming virgin plastic but using 3D printed moulds means we're only using the exact amount of plastic required (opposed to CNC Machining sheets of polycarbonate for example). Although metal moulds are ideal for longevity and quality, they do come with a higher carbon footprint and cost. The nylon moulds have so far had over 100 injections with little wear and are holding up very well for a fraction of the cost of a metal mould. - -We printed the moulds using an Ultimaker 3 3D printer. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/no-touch-tool-with-3d-printed-mould/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/no-touch-tool-with-3d-printed-mould/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index b4211512d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/no-touch-tool-with-3d-printed-mould/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Make a clamp for the mould - - We used plates of metal either side of the mould to apply an even pressure but also wick away some of the heat. You could design bolt slots in the mould halves to clamp them directly. -Initially our moulds had through-bolts which was of course silly and we quickly moved to a significant 10mm steel plate either side of the mould clamped together with M10 bolts. This setup becomes really slick as you can slide the moulds out of the clamp easily, separate the part and slot it back together when complete. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/no-touch-tool-with-3d-printed-mould/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/no-touch-tool-with-3d-printed-mould/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index e9d9a7e21..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/no-touch-tool-with-3d-printed-mould/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Inject into the mould - - We use LDPE sourced from wheel nut indicators (Checkpoints) which is vibrantly coloured and very nice quality to work with. It injects nicely between 160-170*C. -For each tool we put 40g of plastic into the injection moulder - accounting for some leakage at the beginning to ensure the plastic is flowing nicely and over-spill at the end to ensure the mould is 100% filled. -We inject the plastic relatively slowly by hand and hold the pressure once the mould is filled (indicated by when it overflows at the top). Using nylon moulds means that the injected plastic is insulated so it doesn't cool quickly so wants to escape if you don't hold the pressure after injecting. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/no-touch-tool-with-3d-printed-mould/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/no-touch-tool-with-3d-printed-mould/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 90b910a0a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/no-touch-tool-with-3d-printed-mould/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Leave to cool and separate - - After injecting, leave the moulds clamped to cool for 3 minutes before releasing the No Touch Tool from the mould. If you take out the part too early, it may be soft and you risk deforming it. -Equally, don't leave it in longer than 6 minutes as the shrinkage may cause it to hug the sides which makes it much harder to release! - -Unclamp the mould, peel the part from the mould and leave the moulds to cool (being a plastic mould, it keeps warm for longer which can cause issues over multiple injections). A fan can help this process. - -Using multiple moulds and clamps here enables you to get quick cycle times - you can be injecting the next tools whilst the previous ones cool for example. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/no-touch-tool-with-3d-printed-mould/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/no-touch-tool-with-3d-printed-mould/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index dfcbcc8d8..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/no-touch-tool-with-3d-printed-mould/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Finishing - - Cut away the sprue using a sharp knife. -Cut away any flashing that may have occurred. -Drill a hole for a keyring in the bottom. -Attach a retractable lanyard which helps keep the tool keep out of pockets and reduce contamination risk but remains close to hand. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/no-touch-tool-with-3d-printed-mould/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/no-touch-tool-with-3d-printed-mould/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index d7ead28e9..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/no-touch-tool-with-3d-printed-mould/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Finished! - - Keep your hands away from high-contact surfaces and use the tool instead! - -Stay safe out there. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/no-touch-tool-with-3d-printed-mould/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/no-touch-tool-with-3d-printed-mould/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index 124cf6ec6..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/no-touch-tool-with-3d-printed-mould/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11 +0,0 @@ -### Bonus: Speed up the process - - To meet demand or lower the price point of the tools, there are a number of ways you can speed up the process: - -1. Heat the plastic before putting into the injector like Qi-Tech -https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/rapid-fire-method-for-injection--300-face-shields-a-day -You can also use an oven to pre-heat the shreds rather than an extruder. -2. Use multiple moulds. -This enables you to have some products cooling whilst you inject others. -3. Fill the injection tube for multiple shots. -If you can load your injector with multiple 40g shots of plastic, this will enable you to inject multiple shots at a time. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/noggles-nouns-sunglasses-mould/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/noggles-nouns-sunglasses-mould/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index dc87fa3e5..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/noggles-nouns-sunglasses-mould/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,12 +0,0 @@ -### Noggles (NOUNS sunglasses) mould - - -Learn how to make a Noggles (NOUNS sunglasses) mould :) - -You will download the following files: -- NOUNS Glasses (.step) --License CC BY-NC-SA (.txt) - - -When sharing them please credit the following workspaces -Design by: Easymoulds and Mari Salles (@​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​mari.salles_) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/noggles-nouns-sunglasses-mould/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/noggles-nouns-sunglasses-mould/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 0d224f279..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/noggles-nouns-sunglasses-mould/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### CNC the mould - - Once you've downloaded the files the first step is to CNC your mould. All files can be found in the download. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/noggles-nouns-sunglasses-mould/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/noggles-nouns-sunglasses-mould/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 41dafb99f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/noggles-nouns-sunglasses-mould/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Prepare the plastic - - We like to use PP to make the NOGGLES but feel free to experiment with other types of plastic. -Once you have your plastic you have to: - -1) Sort the clean plastic by type and color. -2) Shred it :) -3) Prepare the colors you want to use! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/noggles-nouns-sunglasses-mould/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/noggles-nouns-sunglasses-mould/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8f5b1f741..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/noggles-nouns-sunglasses-mould/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Inject - - Once you have the mold and plastic ready is time to inject! - -1) Turn on your injection machine and bring it to the right temperature 180c -2) Meanwhile prepare & place your mould in the injection machine -3) Feed your plastic in the machine. -4) Inject the plastic into the mould. -5) Voila, you have your recycled frame â™¥ï¸ \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/noggles-nouns-sunglasses-mould/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/noggles-nouns-sunglasses-mould/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index ce6d47ce9..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/noggles-nouns-sunglasses-mould/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Assemble the glasses - - After removing the frame pieces from the mould it's time to do some finishing work to get your NOGGLES ready. - -1) First remove the excess of plastic from the injection -2) Assemble the glasses frame. -3) Test the NOGGLES \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/noggles-nouns-sunglasses-mould/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/noggles-nouns-sunglasses-mould/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index f1056223c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/noggles-nouns-sunglasses-mould/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Go wild with the colors! - - Play around with the colors, let your imagination be your limit :) - -Share with us the Noggles you have made! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/noggles-nouns-sunglasses-mould/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/noggles-nouns-sunglasses-mould/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index f51733498..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/noggles-nouns-sunglasses-mould/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### You can buy one :) - - If you don't want to go through the hassle of building your Noggles mould, you can directly buy the design of your choice! - -Check out : https://www.preciousplastic.com/noggles \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/nouns-sunglasses-mould/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/nouns-sunglasses-mould/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 902c58342..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/nouns-sunglasses-mould/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### NOUNS sunglasses mould - - -Learn how to make a NOUNS sunglasses mould :) - -You will download the following files: -- -- diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/nouns-sunglasses-mould/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/nouns-sunglasses-mould/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 22f96a0c2..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/nouns-sunglasses-mould/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### You can buy one :) - - If you don't want to go through the hassle of building your NOUNS sunglasses mould, you can directly buy the design of your choice! - -Check out : xxx \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/nouns-sunglasses-mould/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/nouns-sunglasses-mould/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 88df8341e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/nouns-sunglasses-mould/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### CNC the mould - - You will first need to put the mould pieces with a CNC machine. - -The drawings can be found in the attached documents. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/nouns-sunglasses-mould/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/nouns-sunglasses-mould/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9af52e81e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/nouns-sunglasses-mould/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Prepare the plastic - - 1) Sort the clean plastic by type and color. - -2) Shred it :) - -3) Prepare the colors you want to use! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/nouns-sunglasses-mould/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/nouns-sunglasses-mould/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index c1b7073af..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/nouns-sunglasses-mould/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Inject - - 1) Prepare & place your mould. - -2) Prepare, place your plastic and heat your machine. - -3) Inject the plastic into the mould. - -4) Remove the injected frame from the mould. - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/nouns-sunglasses-mould/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/nouns-sunglasses-mould/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 10317f9fe..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/nouns-sunglasses-mould/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Assemble the glasses - - After removing the frame pieces from the mould: - -1) Remove the excess of plastic. - -2) Assemble the glasses frame. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/nouns-sunglasses-mould/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/nouns-sunglasses-mould/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4665b1ad4..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/nouns-sunglasses-mould/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Go wild with the colors! - - Play around with the colors, let your imagination be your limit :) - -Share with us the NOUNS you have made! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/nps-air-press-injector-v1/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/nps-air-press-injector-v1/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index eae55faee..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/nps-air-press-injector-v1/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,15 +0,0 @@ -### NPS Air press injector-v1 - - -Air press injector OPEN SOURCE By NoPlasticSunday® -Since 2016 NoPlasticSunday has been researching and developing machinery and equipment for plastic recycling using Precious Plastics open source in Korea. -And in April 2022, We’re open source our drawings and manuals of Air press injector v1 for free. on earth day! - - - -PRAG manufacture team | Lee Cohni, Choi Hyeontaek, Jin Yonghun -PRAG brand team | Cho Minjung, Kim Sanga, Seo Junhee - -Project Direction. Cohni, Minjung | Machine development. Cohni, Hyeontaek, Yonghun | Drawing creation. Yonghun | Poster design. Sanga | Contents edit. Junhee | Translation. (ENG)Junhee, (JP)Sanga - -Air press injector-v1 Open Source by no plastic sunday® \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/nps-air-press-injector-v1/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/nps-air-press-injector-v1/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 50651303c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/nps-air-press-injector-v1/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Download Files - - First, Click on the Download link above to go to all the files for this machine! -and then, Use the required version of the pdf in 3 languages: English, Japanese, and Korean. -The PDF file contains an explanations of the open source and mechanical drawings. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/nps-air-press-injector-v1/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/nps-air-press-injector-v1/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index f1981e918..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/nps-air-press-injector-v1/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Let's Make together! - - Follow the drawings, Build an Air Press Injector v1. -Sharing the open source with others, Please use it and spread it with better ideas! -Any attempts that this open source can be used in a variety of ways are welcome! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/nps-air-press-injector-v1/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/nps-air-press-injector-v1/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8e1a9f719..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/nps-air-press-injector-v1/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,17 +0,0 @@ -### Run and Share! - - Share your experience! -- What were the difficulties you faced while building the machine, and how could you solve it? -Did you come up with a better idea for plastic recycling? Please share your results and process. -Problems become easier when you share them with each other. -#noplasticsunday #preciousplastic - - -finally! Have you finished the machine building? -- Please refer to our Air press injection machine manual. -You can get some information about setup and run the machine. - - -We believe more people can join us through the sharing of plastic recycling technology. -- Plastics that make our lives convenient became the real threat to life on earth. -We create new value by recycling plastics.We build a Sustainable plastic recycling system. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/nps_air-press-injector-v1/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/nps_air-press-injector-v1/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 047414487..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/nps_air-press-injector-v1/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,14 +0,0 @@ -### NPS_Air press injector-v1 - - - -Since 2016, NoPlasticSunday has been researching and developing machinery and equipment for plastic recycling using Precious Plastic in Korea. In April 2022, we open-sourced our drawings and manuals of the Air press injector v1 for free. - - -✳︎ Contributors ✳︎ -PRAG manufacture team | Lee Cohni, Choi Hyeontaek, Jin Yonghun -PRAG brand team | Cho Minjung, Kim Sanga, Seo Junhee - -Project Direction. Cohni, Minjung | Machine development. Cohni, Hyeontaek, Yonghun | Drawing creation. Yonghun | Poster design. Sanga | Contents edit. Junhee | Translation. (ENG)Junhee, (JP)Sanga - -Air press injector OPEN SOURCE By NoPlasticSunday® \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/nps_air-press-injector-v1/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/nps_air-press-injector-v1/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 0f08f4d53..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/nps_air-press-injector-v1/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Download Files - - First, Click on the download link above to get the files for this machine! -We provide PDFs in 3 languages: Korean, English, and Japanese. -The PDF file contains explanations and mechanical drawings of the machine. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/nps_air-press-injector-v1/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/nps_air-press-injector-v1/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8c1eb0592..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/nps_air-press-injector-v1/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11 +0,0 @@ -### Let's Make together! - - Follow the drawings and build your own Air Press Injector v1. - -Please feel free use it and share it with others. Any attempts that improves this open source design in any ways are welcome! - -Please share back your experience! - -What were the difficulties you faced while building the machine, and how could you solve it? -Did you come up with better ideas for plastic recycling? -Please share your results and process. Problems become easier when you share them with each other. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/nps_air-press-injector-v1/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/nps_air-press-injector-v1/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index b3dbe6df9..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/nps_air-press-injector-v1/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Run and Share! - - Finally! Have you finished building the machines? - -Please refer to our Air press injection machine manual to get some information about setup and run the machine. - -We hope for more people to join us on the Precious Plastic movement through open sourcing this plastic recycling technology. Plastics that make our lives convenient but it can quickly became threat to life on earth. - -Let's build a sustainable plastic recycling system. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/old-how-to-ignore/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/old-how-to-ignore/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8d2ad778d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/old-how-to-ignore/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Old How-To **Ignore* - - -This How-To will walk you through how to make your own bucket hat. In this tutorial, we chose to use polyester from discarded polyester banners from local companies, but you may choose any other suitable material to your liking. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/old-how-to-ignore/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/old-how-to-ignore/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 46aa1674f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/old-how-to-ignore/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Select your fabric. - - - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/old-school-bookmark-mould/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/old-school-bookmark-mould/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7aaa736b1..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/old-school-bookmark-mould/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Old School Bookmark Mould - - -Mould your own bookmark for your reading or even simply a marker for whatever it is you would like to mark or clip together with something else. Use plastic with a history on it's back, let's stop using new materials for every single item we decide to produce. Save the planet. - - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/old-school-bookmark-mould/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/old-school-bookmark-mould/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index a2d6f31b7..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/old-school-bookmark-mould/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### CNC your mould - - -For mould-making, download the files above and CNC-mill it yourself or send it to a mould maker. - -you will need 10mm thick aluminium plate -the finished mould would be 10cmx15cm for each side. - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/old-school-bookmark-mould/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/old-school-bookmark-mould/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7e29989a2..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/old-school-bookmark-mould/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Alternative: Buy The mould - - We also sell this mould on Precious Plastic bazar in the link below if you don't have access to making the mould yourself. - -Https://bazar.preciousplastic.com/moulds/injection-moulds/old-school-bookmark/ \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/old-school-bookmark-mould/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/old-school-bookmark-mould/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9da379793..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/old-school-bookmark-mould/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Time to inject - - Your mould should look like this when it is ready. - -Due to the thin object, preheating the mould around 80°C to make the process of injecting easier. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/old-school-bookmark-mould/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/old-school-bookmark-mould/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index b665d837f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/old-school-bookmark-mould/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Inject the parts - - Time to inject. The plastic should be evenly molten to easily spread within the mould, so it might run out of the nozzle just because of gravity. Use a valve into the nozzle and open it right before you start injecting. Act fast and keep the pressure for a couple of seconds before lifting the lever. This will prevent sink marks as the plastic is cooling down under pressure. - -Once injected, open the mould if you wait a lot ,because of the plastic, shrinking maybe it will be more hard to release the object! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/organise-a-precious-plastic-meetup/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/organise-a-precious-plastic-meetup/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 0ccca7051..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/organise-a-precious-plastic-meetup/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Organise a Precious Plastic Meetup - - -A meetup is a great opportunity to get to know your local recycling community, introduce Precious Plastic to people who don’t know it yet and find ways to help each other and work together to grow and succeed together. -Here we’ll give you some tips to organise and run this meetup. - -Meetups are a very useful tool for Community Points - if you haven’t seen it yet, you might want to check out our Community Point Starter Kit! - -Step 1-6: Get ready -Step 8-10: Meet up! diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/organise-a-precious-plastic-meetup/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/organise-a-precious-plastic-meetup/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 5399efc9d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/organise-a-precious-plastic-meetup/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,12 +0,0 @@ -### Get your contacts ready - - Alright, let’s start thinking about the people who should join the meetup. Especially for the first meetup you probably want to bring together people who already know or work with Precious Plastic as well as potentially interested ones. - -Best is if you already made a search in your area and set up a communication channel for the people who are involved in the local (Precious Plastic) recycling or interested in it. - -If not done yet, follow the steps 4-9 from the Community Point Starter Kit to get some tips to start the conversation in your local community. - -👉 community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/set-up-a-community-point/edit - - - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/organise-a-precious-plastic-meetup/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/organise-a-precious-plastic-meetup/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index a5649da46..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/organise-a-precious-plastic-meetup/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Find a good place - - Now think of a place where you can meet. Consider that it should be somewhere rather central and accessible and have enough space for the number of people who will probably join the meeting. Ideally find a place where you can show a presentation and videos (on a laptop or even better with a projector) and can comfortably sit and exchange ideas and thoughts. - -Ask in your group, maybe they have ideas or even a good space for this meeting in their own collection point, workspace, design office, fablab etc. - this could also give the group the opportunity to see and understand how other members of the community operate. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/organise-a-precious-plastic-meetup/step_10.md b/resources/howtos-oa/organise-a-precious-plastic-meetup/step_10.md deleted file mode 100644 index 390dc1dd2..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/organise-a-precious-plastic-meetup/step_10.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,15 +0,0 @@ -### Talk about Precious Plastic - - Now make sure everyone knows and understands Precious Plastic. -You can use the presentation from the download files and change it for your context, or you create your own. - -We also recommend showing the 1 min Starter Kit showcase videos to help understand the machines and possibilities. - -👉 Collection Point: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c-K0ir3uUm0 -👉 Shredder Workspace: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lj4TUYdUAYQ -👉 Sheetpress Workspace: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GwNW8XOjBP0&t=3s -👉 Extrusion Workspace: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MR-CNopHNlU -👉 Injection Workspace: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Iu6vh75Th2M -👉 Mix Workspace: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gHeyKUcYFto - -Adjust the length and level of detail of your presentation to the level of knowledge and involvement of your group, so that newcomers get an understanding, and experienced recyclers don’t get too bored. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/organise-a-precious-plastic-meetup/step_11.md b/resources/howtos-oa/organise-a-precious-plastic-meetup/step_11.md deleted file mode 100644 index 48fa5ef8d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/organise-a-precious-plastic-meetup/step_11.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11 +0,0 @@ -### Group your group - - Now let’s analyse the potential and interests in your group. -Let the group answer the following questions: -Which area would you be interested to start/contribute/offer? (collection, machine building, working with machines, funding, following/sharing) -What resources do we have available? (space, time, money, people) -Who would be volunteering, charging or investing money? -How much time could you invest (per day, per week, per month)? -In bigger groups it can be fun to do this as a grouping exercise where they have to position themselves to a certain category. - -Make sure to document this on a paper/digital document, so you can share it and refer to it when needed. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/organise-a-precious-plastic-meetup/step_12.md b/resources/howtos-oa/organise-a-precious-plastic-meetup/step_12.md deleted file mode 100644 index 0114f49b3..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/organise-a-precious-plastic-meetup/step_12.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Network brainstorm - - After finding out about the people and potential within your group, also brainstorm about more people, projects, companies, places etc. which might be useful for your local recycling network. This can be collection points or services, machine builders, recycling places, designers, shops, media etc. - -In best case, directly add new contacts to your contact list, so they don’t get lost. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/organise-a-precious-plastic-meetup/step_13.md b/resources/howtos-oa/organise-a-precious-plastic-meetup/step_13.md deleted file mode 100644 index dada2182b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/organise-a-precious-plastic-meetup/step_13.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Next steps - - Time to proceed! Summarise what you learned about the group, and discuss how you can start collaborating. Note what’s existing and what is still needed (money, space, people...), and what questions need to be answered. - -Decide who will take care of which topic, so everyone knows what they can do. If you have a bigger group, you might have to make working groups, which can communicate within their topic. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/organise-a-precious-plastic-meetup/step_14.md b/resources/howtos-oa/organise-a-precious-plastic-meetup/step_14.md deleted file mode 100644 index 6e36a4ee2..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/organise-a-precious-plastic-meetup/step_14.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Keep meeting - - Once people know what to do and are excited to dive into it, meeting regularly can help a lot to keep them motivated, to stay updated and to keep strengthening the connections. Try to find a time, an interval and place which works for the team (or for at least one representing person of each working group). -If you have a fixed place, you could install a sign somewhere visually there. - -And (if not there yet), add a Community Point pin on the Precious Plastic map, so people can find this pin and get in touch with your group. - - -👉 community.preciousplastic.com/signup \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/organise-a-precious-plastic-meetup/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/organise-a-precious-plastic-meetup/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 80f1b944e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/organise-a-precious-plastic-meetup/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Find a good time - - Next step is to find a date and time which work for as many people as possible. - -As you are the one organising, the first step is to see when it would work for yourself. Often it helps to suggest a few options to choose from (you can also do this with help of websites like doodle.com). Pick some dates which are a few weeks away, so you have time to promote it and people have time to plan it into their schedules. - -Sidenote: Don’t worry if you can’t find a common date for everyone - it’s just the first meetup of (hopefully) many more, so there will be more opportunities to join. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/organise-a-precious-plastic-meetup/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/organise-a-precious-plastic-meetup/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index effbf06a7..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/organise-a-precious-plastic-meetup/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11 +0,0 @@ -### Share your event - - Once you have the date and place for your meetup, let your group know about it! - -If you want to keep the meetup only for the contacts you already have, it’s probably enough to announce it in your communication channel. - -If it will be open for newcomers to join, it’s important to spread the word: You can create an event online and share it on social media or your local news. - -And you can add your meetup as an event to the Precious Plastic event page, so the community can find you more easily. - -👉 community.preciousplastic.com/events \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/organise-a-precious-plastic-meetup/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/organise-a-precious-plastic-meetup/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index ab5f71f03..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/organise-a-precious-plastic-meetup/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Make a plan - - Now it’s time to make a more detailed plan for your meetup. Write down what you want to find out and achieve and think about what you will do with your group. - -This will depend a lot on the number and kind of people coming. Newcomers will need more explanations about Precious Plastic, more experienced people will probably focus more on figuring out how to work together to build a stronger network. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/organise-a-precious-plastic-meetup/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/organise-a-precious-plastic-meetup/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 1608edd1f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/organise-a-precious-plastic-meetup/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Prepare materials - - Prepare everything you need to make your plan happen. -Organise a computer (and if available projector) for presentations and videos. - -Get paper and pencils (maybe post-its) if you want to brainstorm together and write down ideas and questions, and print if you have questionnaires to fill out or exercises to print out. -And think of any games or activities which could be nice icebreakers to get to know the group. - -If possible, also bring or ask someone to bring a camera to document your meetup and maybe even take notes of what’s being discussed. It’s always nice to capture and share these moments! diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/organise-a-precious-plastic-meetup/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/organise-a-precious-plastic-meetup/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index 90f1e3913..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/organise-a-precious-plastic-meetup/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Extra: Prepare samples - - It’s always nice to bring some Precious Plastic material samples and products to help people understand the process and get them excited about the results. - -If you can’t find anything locally, you can have a look at the Bazar and get some community creations. - -👉 bazar.preciousplastic.com \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/organise-a-precious-plastic-meetup/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/organise-a-precious-plastic-meetup/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index 15c0f9c4c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/organise-a-precious-plastic-meetup/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Prepare food - - Food connects people in a very positive way, it’s a small thing which makes everyone happy! - -Maybe you can prepare something yourself, or talk in the group that everyone brings a bit or maybe even organise the meeting at a time that you can end it with a shared meal. (Also a good thing to make people come.) diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/organise-a-precious-plastic-meetup/step_8.md b/resources/howtos-oa/organise-a-precious-plastic-meetup/step_8.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2e7406293..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/organise-a-precious-plastic-meetup/step_8.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Meet up time! - - Time to meet! The following steps are based on the agenda we added in the download files. You can do exactly the same, but feel free to change it or add your own ideas so it fits to your context. - -Try to be there earlier than the meetup time so you can already prepare a bit. Greet the people when they arrive, introduce yourself and make sure they feel comfortable. - -When everyone is there, welcome everyone and give an overview of the agenda, the purpose of the meeting and how long it will probably take, so they know what to expect. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/organise-a-precious-plastic-meetup/step_9.md b/resources/howtos-oa/organise-a-precious-plastic-meetup/step_9.md deleted file mode 100644 index 96d76779c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/organise-a-precious-plastic-meetup/step_9.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Introduction - - Start with a starter round for the group to give everyone the chance to introduce themselves, so everyone has an idea what the background of the group is. - -It helps to prepare some questions: Ask for their name, where they live, what they do (occupation), and how much they've been involved in Precious Plastic already. - -You can also add a fun question like: What’s your favorite icecream flavor or what animal would you like to be? \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/pendant-mold/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/pendant-mold/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 61c4d5e3b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/pendant-mold/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Pendant Mold - - -Making simple product design from scratch. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/pendant-mold/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/pendant-mold/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 1167af821..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/pendant-mold/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### What you need - - Asd \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/pendant-mold/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/pendant-mold/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7bd0a5021..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/pendant-mold/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Design - - This how it look on rendering, good enough? \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/pendant-mold/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/pendant-mold/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index a9471275c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/pendant-mold/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Design the mold - - Contact your cnc partner, or you can also contact us \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/pet-mini---recycled-electric-skate/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/pet-mini---recycled-electric-skate/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 5d128b7b6..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/pet-mini---recycled-electric-skate/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### PET MINI - Recycled Electric Skate - - -PET MINI Skateboard is a Open Source, Recycled Electric Skateboard for urban transportation. With the goal to end stressful commutes and boost your door-to-door speed with the perfect last mile recycled vehicle. - -If you have any questions or would like to collaborate with the community from Portugal reach out to us! - -https://www.vivalabporto.com/ -https://www.makerisland.io/ \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/pet-mini---recycled-electric-skate/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/pet-mini---recycled-electric-skate/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4c2bbd9e7..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/pet-mini---recycled-electric-skate/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Story - - PET MINI (Personal Electric Transport) was developed based on the growing importance of creating participatory approaches to design. - -By using the potential of Open Design we can easily prototype and distribute design's at a global scale while promoting local manufacturing and problem solving. - -We were grateful to get the recycled plastic PP sheet's from Precious Plastic HQ for the first prototypes, they were machined by a CNC router to obtain the skateboard deck. Mechanical parts were 3D printed to speed up prototyping phase, as the parts were manufactured at a local Fab Lab, VIVALab, so it can easily be replicated at any of the 2,000 Fab Lab's from the global network. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/pet-mini---recycled-electric-skate/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/pet-mini---recycled-electric-skate/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index d2c9e87ce..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/pet-mini---recycled-electric-skate/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,17 +0,0 @@ -### Bill Of Materials (BOM) - - There is a whole world around DIY electric skateboards, different specs and consequently several different parts you can choose from. The parts we used allow a top speed of 35 km/h and a range of 36km: - - 1x 10s BESTECH bms 60a Battery Pack 12s2p (10s3p) - 1x BUNDLE HTD 5M 53 teeth Belt 265mm - 1x Electric Skateboard Speed Controller Open Source VESC - 1x Eskating PRO motors 6374 190Kv - 2x Caliber II Trucks 50° 10″ - 4x Kegel 80mm Wheels - 8x ABEC 608 - 1x 2.4GHz remote - 1x 16T Motor Pulley (8mm or 10mm) - 1x 3D printed Wheel gear Pulley and Motor Mount - 1x Skateboard Hardware Set - 1" - 2x 1/2" Rubber Riser Pads - 1x 1m of 1mm Rubber Window insulation \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/pet-mini---recycled-electric-skate/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/pet-mini---recycled-electric-skate/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 88234a6f0..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/pet-mini---recycled-electric-skate/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,27 +0,0 @@ -### Sheet Press, 3D Printing & CNC - - Start by making your 20mm sheet using the sheetpress. - -Related links: -How to make sheets 👉 tiny.cc/run-the-sheetpress -Find sheets on the Bazar👉 bazar.preciousplastic.com - -3D print the Armadillo Electronic case, Wheel gear Pulley and Motor Mount - -3D printing Parameters: -👉Armadillo Case: - PLA - 25% - 45% Infill - 0.3mm layer hight - -👉 Motor Mount: - ABS - <45% Infill - 0.2mm layer hight - -👉Wheel Gear Pulley: - PC-ABS or Carbon Fiber - <45% Infill - 0.2mm layer hight - -3D CNC Milling 20mm Plastic Sheet using the 3d model of the deck parameters will depend on the available CNC at your local Fab Lab or Makerspace. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/pet-mini---recycled-electric-skate/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/pet-mini---recycled-electric-skate/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index b67bb9976..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/pet-mini---recycled-electric-skate/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Electronics - - We share with you a comprehensive tutorial to program your electronics and to assemble your electronics - -👉Electronics Assembly: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W5kOgzW5Jmc&list=PLkqXGkAj77a4fVV9FmcT0fqr66eJbBoh0 \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/pet-mini---recycled-electric-skate/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/pet-mini---recycled-electric-skate/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index f9b7cd9dd..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/pet-mini---recycled-electric-skate/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,16 +0,0 @@ -### Have Fun!!! - - After Assembling all the different parts, programming your electronics and adding the rubber insulation to the Electronics case you are ready to test your e-skate. - -Ride Safe and Have Fun! 🛹♻ - -If you have any questions or would like to collaborate with the community from Portugal reach out to us! - -https://www.vivalabporto.com/ -https://www.makerisland.io/ - -Share your results to: -@​​​​​vivalabporto -@​​​​​realpreciousplastic -#preciousplastic -#vivalabporto \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/pet-mini---recycled-electric-skateboard/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/pet-mini---recycled-electric-skateboard/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index d85ff51cb..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/pet-mini---recycled-electric-skateboard/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### PET MINI - Recycled Electric Skateboard - - -PET MINI Skateboard is a Open Source, Recycled Electric Skateboard for urban transportation. With the goal to end stressful commutes and boost your door-to-door speed with the perfect last mile recycled vehicle. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/pet-mini---recycled-electric-skateboard/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/pet-mini---recycled-electric-skateboard/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2bb88e42f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/pet-mini---recycled-electric-skateboard/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### sfsadfasdf - - -asdfasdfasdf \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/pet-mini---recycled-electric-skateboard/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/pet-mini---recycled-electric-skateboard/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4d43154a3..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/pet-mini---recycled-electric-skateboard/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,16 +0,0 @@ -### Bill Of Materials (BOM) - - There is a whole world around DIY electric skateboards and different specs - - 1x 10s BESTECH bms 60a Battery Pack 12s2p (10s3p) - 1x BUNDLE HTD 5M 53 teeth Belt 265mm - 1x Electric Skateboard Speed Controller Open Source VESC - 1x Eskating PRO motors 6374 190Kv - 2x Caliber II Trucks 50° 10″ - 4x Kegel 80mm Wheels - 8x ABEC 608 - 1x 2.4GHz remote - 1x 16T Motor Pulley (8mm or 10mm) - 1x 3D printed Wheel gear Pulley and Motor Mount - 1x Skateboard Hardware Set - 1" - 2x 1/2" Rubber Riser Pads diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/pet-mini---recycled-electric-skateboard/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/pet-mini---recycled-electric-skateboard/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index d82237b24..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/pet-mini---recycled-electric-skateboard/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Sheet Press, 3D Printing & CNC - - ascas \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/pet-mini---recycled-electric-skateboard/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/pet-mini---recycled-electric-skateboard/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 66109b97c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/pet-mini---recycled-electric-skateboard/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### asdfasdf - - asffasd \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/phonecase-mould-from-a-resin-printer/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/phonecase-mould-from-a-resin-printer/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index b8aa23fda..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/phonecase-mould-from-a-resin-printer/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,12 +0,0 @@ -### Phonecase mould from a resin printer - - -This guide provides instructions on how to design and print a phone cover mould using a resin printer. You will see the steps involved in creating a phone cover mould, as well as some useful tips on mould design, resin printing, and manufacturing. - -I hope you find this guide useful and that it inspires you to create your own resin mould soon! 😊 - -The zip file contains: -1. 3D files - SLA phone cover mould (step) -2. 3D files - SLA phone cover mould (stl) -3. Readme with links to the resin and printer I use (txt) -4. Technical drawing of the mould (pdf) diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/phonecase-mould-from-a-resin-printer/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/phonecase-mould-from-a-resin-printer/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 5bf1331fe..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/phonecase-mould-from-a-resin-printer/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,14 +0,0 @@ -### Download a phone model - - Before you start modelling the mould you need to have a 3D model of the actual phonecase you want to create. For this purpose you need to find the phone model online. You can use a online CAD library like GrabCAD for that. - -1. Go to GrabCAD and search for the phone model you want to create a phonecover for. - -2. Download the model (STEP file works the best). - -3. Open the model in your CAD program. - -There might be other websites with CAD-libraries, but the one I regulary use is GrabCAD. I can really recommend it. You can find many different products as a 3D file there and once you registered all downloads are completely for free. - -Link to GrabCAD: https://grabcad.com/library - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/phonecase-mould-from-a-resin-printer/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/phonecase-mould-from-a-resin-printer/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2118814d5..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/phonecase-mould-from-a-resin-printer/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,15 +0,0 @@ -### Design the mould (with Fusion360) - - To design a phone cover, you need to download the phone model first. Then, you can use the model to create the shape of the cover and the mould. A recommended software for 3D design is Fusion360, which is suitable for both beginners and experts. - -There are two helpful videos that show how to use Fusion360 for this project. You can find the links below. - -The first video is by "Product Design Online", a channel that provides detailed tutorials on Fusion360. This video teaches you how to design a phone case model step by step. - -Making a phone cover model :https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1MmjBLYMNWY - -The other one is by Lars Christensen's channel, where he creates a mould in a series of three videos. - -Lars making a mould in fusion: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_hgmwhde1So - -Often time you can find finished phone cover models on GrabCad aswell. This then safes you the time of designing it yourself and you can directly start making the mould :) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/phonecase-mould-from-a-resin-printer/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/phonecase-mould-from-a-resin-printer/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index a1858eb3c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/phonecase-mould-from-a-resin-printer/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11 +0,0 @@ -### Tips for using Fusion360 - - Fusion 360 is a powerful software that I have been using since 2018 for various projects. The software is not free, but there are some options to avoid the costly subscription. - -One option is to get the educational license if you are a student at a university. This license is free and valid for as long as you are enrolled. You just need to provide a document that proves your student status. - -Another option is to use the hobbyist version of Fusion 360, which has some limitations on the file formats you can import and export. I am not very familiar with this version, but the educational license works well for me. - -Link to the educational download: https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/education - - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/phonecase-mould-from-a-resin-printer/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/phonecase-mould-from-a-resin-printer/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2fd926987..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/phonecase-mould-from-a-resin-printer/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,15 +0,0 @@ -### 3D print the mould or give it to a manufacturer - - Once the mould is designed, you can 3D print it in a SLA printer. SLA stands for stereolithography, a process that uses light to cure liquid resin into solid layers. If you have no printer available you can assign the job to an online manufacturer. - -Make it yourself: -1. Prepare your model and materials. You need to slice your model into layers using a software like ChiTuBox. You need to choose the right resin for your mould. It needs to a high temeperature resin. (I put a link to the resin I use in the readme) - -2. Put the resin into the tank start your print. There are many tutorials on how to use a SLA printer for this purpose. - -3. Relax and wait for the model to print:) - -Assign to an online manufacturer: -I often use Xometry for that. They have reasonable prices and every part, which they manufactured for me so far was really good in quality. My only experience so far is with aluminum but they also offer different resin materials. - -Link to Xometry: https://www.xometry.com diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/phonecase-mould-from-a-resin-printer/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/phonecase-mould-from-a-resin-printer/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index bd671a5f0..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/phonecase-mould-from-a-resin-printer/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Things to know when designing a resin mould - - The resin material is very different from aluminum. One of the main differences between resin and aluminum moulds is their thermal conductivity, which is a measure of how well a material can transfer heat. Thermal conductivity affects the heating and cooling times, the quality and the cost of the moulded parts. - -The resin material transfers heat much worse, that is why you can design thinner walls of your finished part. However, this also means that the resin parts will take longer to cool down. - -Depending on the part shape, a resin mould can also be advantageous. Because of the slower cooling, the tensions in the finished parts are generally lower and the risk of cracking or warping is reduced. - -On the other hand, the resin material is much more brittle than aluminum and you need to work much more careful with it. Resin moulds are more prone to damage from abrasion or impact, and they may require more frequent maintenance or replacement. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/phonecase-mould-from-a-resin-printer/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/phonecase-mould-from-a-resin-printer/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index b8b88b022..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/phonecase-mould-from-a-resin-printer/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,13 +0,0 @@ -### Using the mould for automatic injection molding - - I created this resin mould design for an automatic injection molding machine on which I've been working on as my main project. The machine is totally automated, and it uses ejector pins to pop out the finished parts. That's why the insert part of the mould has four holes for the ejector pins. - -If you're curious about how it all works, I made a cool YouTube clip showing the ejecting mechanism in action with the pins installed. Take a look! - -I hope this How-to was useful for you. If you want to find more information on this mould or other things I do like the automatic recycling machine, feel free to visit my channel. - -https://www.instagram.com/sotop_recycling/ - -Cheers, - -Manuel :) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/ping-pong-paddle/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/ping-pong-paddle/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2c5145617..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/ping-pong-paddle/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Ping pong paddle - - -In this tutorial you will learn how to make a ping-pong paddle ! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/ping-pong-paddle/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/ping-pong-paddle/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index d93bcba79..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/ping-pong-paddle/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Inject - - Inject the piece and two tenons using the file above 👆, and be careful to keep it warm if you want a perfect paddle ! If not, the plastic doesn't flow to the bottom of the paddle, like on the picture 3. -The A parts maybe needs to be sanded down. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/ping-pong-paddle/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/ping-pong-paddle/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 22c5f1e4a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/ping-pong-paddle/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Assemble - - Drill the 3 pieces and assemble them tightly with 12mm diameter plastic trunnions. You can wether use a clamp and tighten it to assemble, or use a mallet and a hot gun. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/plastic-bookmark/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/plastic-bookmark/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 0d5a4ef70..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/plastic-bookmark/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Plastic bookmark - - -Make the moulds -Plastic bookmark will be injected, you need the mould and access to an injection machine. For mould-making, download the files above and CNC-mill it yourself or send it to a mould maker. - -This mould need a lot of force to be fully injected diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/plastic-bookmark/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/plastic-bookmark/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 1f889203e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/plastic-bookmark/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Preparations - - Due to the thin object, preheating the mould around 80°C to make the process of injecting easier. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/plastic-bookmark/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/plastic-bookmark/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 228e6fabb..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/plastic-bookmark/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Inject the parts - - Time to inject. The plastic should be evenly molten to easily spread within the mould, so it might run out of the nozzle just because of gravity. Use a valve into the nozzle and open it right before you start injecting.Act fast and keep the pressure for a couple of seconds before lifting the lever. This will prevent sink marks as the plastic is cooling down under pressure. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/plastic-bookmark/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/plastic-bookmark/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index da91817fe..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/plastic-bookmark/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Unmould your parts - - Once injected, open the mould if you wait a lot ,because of the plastic, shrinking maybe it will be more hard to release the object! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/plastic-medals--free-injection-mould-design/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/plastic-medals--free-injection-mould-design/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2e503c9d4..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/plastic-medals--free-injection-mould-design/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Plastic medals + FREE injection mould design - - -Make plastic recycled medals to boost promotion of methods how to post-process plastic waste. In this how to you can find blueprints for very simple injection mould and I describe manufacturing process. Average cycle time approx. 4,5min. / medal. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/plastic-medals--free-injection-mould-design/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/plastic-medals--free-injection-mould-design/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 071fb851c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/plastic-medals--free-injection-mould-design/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### 1. What do you need? - - - shredded plastic, I recommend to use PP or HDPE -- injection mould - you can download blueprints for free -- injection machine developed by Precious Plastic \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/plastic-medals--free-injection-mould-design/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/plastic-medals--free-injection-mould-design/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index e3e6ed89b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/plastic-medals--free-injection-mould-design/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Prepare material - - For 4 medals you need 100g of PP or HDPE. -Select colour as you want. -Shread it into small pieces which you can get into cylinder of injection machine. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/plastic-medals--free-injection-mould-design/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/plastic-medals--free-injection-mould-design/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index a49113a30..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/plastic-medals--free-injection-mould-design/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,14 +0,0 @@ -### Prepare injection mould - - Mould is very simple. - -It consists of 4 parts: -- connector is made from machined aluminium (same design as for dome joints) -- top plate, middle plate and bottom plate were laser cutted -- you can also add engraving to make lables on every medal as you want. - -We made laser engraving in depth of 0,3mm. - -Middle part and bottom part are connected with bolts. - -To make holes in plastic part I finally used a bolt M6 which I screw inside for every medal before every injection. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/plastic-medals--free-injection-mould-design/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/plastic-medals--free-injection-mould-design/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 61eeca764..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/plastic-medals--free-injection-mould-design/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Injection moulding - - Temperature setting depends on type of plastic. -For HDPE I used 260 deg. C -Melting time 18 min. (depends on size of shredded particles) -After injection leave mould for 2 min closed. -Remove medals and cut edges. - -In video or picture below you can see it was difficult to press it. I used material from oil bottles which was difficult to inject. :D -#floorislava \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/plastic-medals--free-injection-mould-design/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/plastic-medals--free-injection-mould-design/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index beac69bcf..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/plastic-medals--free-injection-mould-design/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Make people happy - - The medal itself has little effect on the overall solution of the planet's plastic pollution. But if you understand it correctly, for example, as part of an event for the public, you can teach people the real use of plastics for new things. In this case, even a small medal can serve as an interesting gift and motivate people to reduce plastic consumption. During Olympic Festival in Prague we made more than 1000 plastic medals :) - -+ easy to make -+ interesting for public -+ you can use medal also as coaster or attach it to keys -- stiffness of mould is not very good => if you apply more force plastic can flow out easily and you need cut more plastic. - -Get in touch: https://linktr.ee/plastmakers \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/plastic-medals-incl-mould-design/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/plastic-medals-incl-mould-design/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8131e47f1..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/plastic-medals-incl-mould-design/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Plastic medals (incl. mould design) - - -Make plastic recycled medals to boost promotion of methods how to post-process plastic waste. In this how to you can find blueprints for very simple injection mould and I describe manufacturing process. Average cycle time approx. 4,5min. / medal. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/plastic-medals-incl-mould-design/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/plastic-medals-incl-mould-design/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 071fb851c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/plastic-medals-incl-mould-design/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### 1. What do you need? - - - shredded plastic, I recommend to use PP or HDPE -- injection mould - you can download blueprints for free -- injection machine developed by Precious Plastic \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/plastic-medals-incl-mould-design/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/plastic-medals-incl-mould-design/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index e3e6ed89b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/plastic-medals-incl-mould-design/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Prepare material - - For 4 medals you need 100g of PP or HDPE. -Select colour as you want. -Shread it into small pieces which you can get into cylinder of injection machine. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/plastic-medals-incl-mould-design/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/plastic-medals-incl-mould-design/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index a49113a30..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/plastic-medals-incl-mould-design/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,14 +0,0 @@ -### Prepare injection mould - - Mould is very simple. - -It consists of 4 parts: -- connector is made from machined aluminium (same design as for dome joints) -- top plate, middle plate and bottom plate were laser cutted -- you can also add engraving to make lables on every medal as you want. - -We made laser engraving in depth of 0,3mm. - -Middle part and bottom part are connected with bolts. - -To make holes in plastic part I finally used a bolt M6 which I screw inside for every medal before every injection. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/plastic-medals-incl-mould-design/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/plastic-medals-incl-mould-design/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 61eeca764..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/plastic-medals-incl-mould-design/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Injection moulding - - Temperature setting depends on type of plastic. -For HDPE I used 260 deg. C -Melting time 18 min. (depends on size of shredded particles) -After injection leave mould for 2 min closed. -Remove medals and cut edges. - -In video or picture below you can see it was difficult to press it. I used material from oil bottles which was difficult to inject. :D -#floorislava \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/plastic-medals-incl-mould-design/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/plastic-medals-incl-mould-design/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index beac69bcf..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/plastic-medals-incl-mould-design/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Make people happy - - The medal itself has little effect on the overall solution of the planet's plastic pollution. But if you understand it correctly, for example, as part of an event for the public, you can teach people the real use of plastics for new things. In this case, even a small medal can serve as an interesting gift and motivate people to reduce plastic consumption. During Olympic Festival in Prague we made more than 1000 plastic medals :) - -+ easy to make -+ interesting for public -+ you can use medal also as coaster or attach it to keys -- stiffness of mould is not very good => if you apply more force plastic can flow out easily and you need cut more plastic. - -Get in touch: https://linktr.ee/plastmakers \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/plastic-object-that-sticks-sachet/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/plastic-object-that-sticks-sachet/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4ab3e22fd..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/plastic-object-that-sticks-sachet/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Plastic object that sticks sachet - - -A plastic object of just under 0.5 inches to pierce sachets like ketchup or mayonnaise, people will no longer need to use their mouth or hand to open them and not get dirty. much more hygienic and faster. I have 1000 units here with me that can serve as an example. - -I will leave a link to show you guys how it works -https://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=youtu.be&v=yWZGY13XjmQ \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/plastic-object-that-sticks-sachet/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/plastic-object-that-sticks-sachet/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index a830e185b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/plastic-object-that-sticks-sachet/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Smart idea - - restaurants / fastfoods will be able to use them along with delivery as they are disposable. This object is already being used in 3 cities in Brazil in 1 year, It is expanding fast, people like it. I am trying to bring this object to USA because here there is nothing similar but it will exist. We can be the first! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/plastic-object-that-sticks-sachet/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/plastic-object-that-sticks-sachet/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index de37f1947..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/plastic-object-that-sticks-sachet/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Blank - - Blank \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/plastic-object-that-sticks-sachet/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/plastic-object-that-sticks-sachet/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9a74f7513..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/plastic-object-that-sticks-sachet/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Blank - - Blank \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/plastic-rods-to-hold-flower-beds/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/plastic-rods-to-hold-flower-beds/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index ce476c7df..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/plastic-rods-to-hold-flower-beds/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Plastic rods to hold flower beds - - -We are producing 90cm plastic rods made of HDPE to hold flower beds. This how to focuses on the extrusion process. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/plastic-rods-to-hold-flower-beds/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/plastic-rods-to-hold-flower-beds/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 60eea7ca7..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/plastic-rods-to-hold-flower-beds/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### The Mold - - We use a 95cm long stainless steel tube. We built it longer that what we needed the length to be because it always shrinks when cooled down. - -The tube has an open end that way it can release de air that accumulate and we can see how the plastic is moving and when it reaches the end. - -It connects to the extrusion machine using a clamp like they use in tubes for high pressure hot air. It was the best way to assure it had the strength to endure the pressure and the heat. The packing is made out of silicon which was the material that best endured the pressure and heat. - - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/plastic-rods-to-hold-flower-beds/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/plastic-rods-to-hold-flower-beds/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 37d1493c2..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/plastic-rods-to-hold-flower-beds/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,15 +0,0 @@ -### Preparation - - We use approximately 275g of shredded HDPE to produce 1 plastic rod, make sure to have this ready. - -Heat the extrusion machine to 265 degrees celcius. - -Wait 15 minutes until all the plastic is melted. - -Make sure to grease the mold thoroughly. - -Prepare a container full of cold water where the mold fits. - -Make sure you have gloves that can sustain heat and a knife to remove excess plastic. - -Make sure you use a gas mask to protect yourself from any toxins. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/plastic-rods-to-hold-flower-beds/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/plastic-rods-to-hold-flower-beds/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 55b0f224d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/plastic-rods-to-hold-flower-beds/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,17 +0,0 @@ -### Production - - Insert the mold onto the machine inserting the silicon packing and using the clamp. Make sure you tighten but not excessively. - -Insert the plastic and turn the machine on. It takes us about 6-9 minutes to produce one rod. It will depend on your motor and your heating systems. - -Beware of any plastic obstructing the entrance. - -Once it reaches the end take the mold out immediately and insert it in water for it to cool. If there is any excess plastic make sure to cut it with the knife so that it does´t create a resistance when it is shrinking. - -Let it cool for 10 minutes or so. - -It should pop out quickly from the mold. - -Do not forget to stamp it with the HDPE 2 sign. - -The product is now reading for use in the flower fields. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/plastic-rods/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/plastic-rods/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index d4c053d32..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/plastic-rods/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Plastic rods - - -We are producing 90cm plastic rods made of HDPE to hold flower beds. This how to focuses on the extrusion process. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/plastic-rods/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/plastic-rods/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 60eea7ca7..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/plastic-rods/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### The Mold - - We use a 95cm long stainless steel tube. We built it longer that what we needed the length to be because it always shrinks when cooled down. - -The tube has an open end that way it can release de air that accumulate and we can see how the plastic is moving and when it reaches the end. - -It connects to the extrusion machine using a clamp like they use in tubes for high pressure hot air. It was the best way to assure it had the strength to endure the pressure and the heat. The packing is made out of silicon which was the material that best endured the pressure and heat. - - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/plastic-rods/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/plastic-rods/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 37d1493c2..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/plastic-rods/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,15 +0,0 @@ -### Preparation - - We use approximately 275g of shredded HDPE to produce 1 plastic rod, make sure to have this ready. - -Heat the extrusion machine to 265 degrees celcius. - -Wait 15 minutes until all the plastic is melted. - -Make sure to grease the mold thoroughly. - -Prepare a container full of cold water where the mold fits. - -Make sure you have gloves that can sustain heat and a knife to remove excess plastic. - -Make sure you use a gas mask to protect yourself from any toxins. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/plastic-rods/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/plastic-rods/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 55b0f224d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/plastic-rods/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,17 +0,0 @@ -### Production - - Insert the mold onto the machine inserting the silicon packing and using the clamp. Make sure you tighten but not excessively. - -Insert the plastic and turn the machine on. It takes us about 6-9 minutes to produce one rod. It will depend on your motor and your heating systems. - -Beware of any plastic obstructing the entrance. - -Once it reaches the end take the mold out immediately and insert it in water for it to cool. If there is any excess plastic make sure to cut it with the knife so that it does´t create a resistance when it is shrinking. - -Let it cool for 10 minutes or so. - -It should pop out quickly from the mold. - -Do not forget to stamp it with the HDPE 2 sign. - -The product is now reading for use in the flower fields. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/plate-mould/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/plate-mould/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index c01ca4575..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/plate-mould/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,12 +0,0 @@ -### Plate mould - - -In this awsome "How To" you will make an aluminium mould for injecting a plate (3mm thickness) from recycled plastic. - -Can be used for serving dry food like nuts or for objects :) -Should not be used for eating purposes - only if you apply a correct coating or lacquer! - -Check out the real life plate execution here: https://www.youtube.com/watch? v=YzjTm3FRLVY&t=5s - -This product rocks! -*special thanks to Paul Denney! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/plate-mould/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/plate-mould/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index e03abaf87..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/plate-mould/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,13 +0,0 @@ -### Get ready - - Tools needed: -- CNC, tools to cut (cutting plier), drill and welder - Mask with ABEC filter, gloves, glasses -- scale, sanding paper, polishing paste (for metal) - 4 bolts of 8m width, min length 9 cm + nuts -- 2 metal dowel pins (6m example) -- 8m + 6m drill bit -- wrenches -- 2 aluminium blocks 26x26x4cm, -- metal sheet min 15x15x0.5cm -- plumbing connector 1 inch, -- Precious Plastic stamp for your plastic type -Machines needed: Injection machine and a shredder (or shredded plastic) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/plate-mould/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/plate-mould/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7624b1ae2..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/plate-mould/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### The mould - - As we will make this plate with the injection machine, we need to make the mould for it. It will be made of 3 parts: Bottom and top part out of aluminium. And next is the connector part made from steel. -The top and bottom part will be CNC-milled out of two blocks of aluminium while we’ll make the connector part manually. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/plate-mould/step_10.md b/resources/howtos-oa/plate-mould/step_10.md deleted file mode 100644 index a4e4db645..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/plate-mould/step_10.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Discover your creation - - Keep the handle bar down. Quickly unscrew your mould from the injection barrel, and re-plug the connection point on the injector, so that no plastic leaks out. By applying water you can speed up the cooling process. When the mould is cooled open the two sides of your mould by unscrewing the bolts. Use a hammer and pin (like your bold for example), to hammer out the plate through the nozzle connector on the top. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/plate-mould/step_11.md b/resources/howtos-oa/plate-mould/step_11.md deleted file mode 100644 index eec0b568c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/plate-mould/step_11.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Finish the plate - - Cut away the excess material at the injection point with some sharp plier. Sand the uneven areas to give it a clean finish. For this you can use a machine or your bare hands(if you dare to). - - -*Disclaimer: -Due to no full possible verification of the plastics sources -do not eat food from this plate unless you applied a lacquer to the surface. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/plate-mould/step_12.md b/resources/howtos-oa/plate-mould/step_12.md deleted file mode 100644 index 725be808c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/plate-mould/step_12.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Label your plastic! Stamp the plate! - - Ideally, at this point you should add a plastic type symbol to your product to show what plastic is made from! -This is important so that later on people know which type it is, and it can be recycled again. -There are different techniques you can use to stamp your material. -Here we used the Precious Plastic stamps (You can get them online on the Bazar). - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/plate-mould/step_13.md b/resources/howtos-oa/plate-mould/step_13.md deleted file mode 100644 index 879020abe..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/plate-mould/step_13.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,15 +0,0 @@ -### Finish like a heroe - - Grab yourself a well earned beer (or tea for the under 18’s...), and admire your work! -For any questions contact me on hoogewerfthomas@​gmail.com. - -Or send a photo of your creation to me ;) - -Check out the real life plate execution in Panama! -https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YzjTm3FRLVY&t=5s - -*special thanks to Paul Denney! - -*****Disclaimer***** -Due to no full possible verification of the plastics sources -do not eat food from this plate unless you applied a lacquer to the surface. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/plate-mould/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/plate-mould/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 914b9309f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/plate-mould/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### CNC your top and bottom parts - - Let’s start with the CNC part. -Download the attached STEP file and CNC-mill them into the 2 separate aluminium blocks both equal sized of minimum size 26cm x 26cm x 4cm. (Note: The standard Precious Plastic Injection machine limits the max width for moulds to 28cm). - -The step file includes 6 reference points to be milled. These points make it easy to manually drill on the exact location of the aluminium blocks. If you are not lucky enough to have access to a CNC milling machine, you can send the files to a CNC cutting company (consider that this will be more expensive and will probably take longer). - -Once the mould is cut, polish the mould to achieve a high quality surface for your product. You can do that yourself or ask the CNC cutting company to polish the mould for you. - -*special thanks to Friedrich diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/plate-mould/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/plate-mould/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 535b5427e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/plate-mould/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Drill the holes in the aluminium mould - - Now the mould parts need holes. We have to make 2 types of holes. Total will be 6. (the injection hole comes later) - -First we drill 2 halfway holes on both inner sides of the aluminium blocks to fit 2 metal dowel pins in there. These pins make sure your mould is always aligned straight when you are injecting. (see first image) Drill the hole size according to the dowel pin size you have. I used 6m width. Drill the holes on both sides half way. -After opening and closing the mould more often the opening and closing will become more easy. - -Then 4 holes are needed to connect and close the mould with bolts and nuts. Drill 4 holes on the 4 corners of the aluminium blocks. Use the pre marked drill indicators ór close the mould straight diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/plate-mould/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/plate-mould/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9c2c6a2c7..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/plate-mould/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Drill the injection hole - - Using a 13mm bit, drill a hole in the center of the bottom mould part. This is where the plastic will flow into the mould, out of the injection machine. The center drill indicator is also included in the STEP file. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/plate-mould/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/plate-mould/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index c686408b2..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/plate-mould/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Make the connector plate - - To make the connection plate, we need a square steel sheet of 150cm x 150cm (minimum 0.5cm thick) and a nozzle which fits your injection machine (here: 1/2 inch - BSP - type). Check the connection types of the injector. https://youtu.be/qtZv96ciFIU?t=255 -Mark the center points for the holes according to the drawing and drill the holes. -Then place the nozzle on top of the 13mm hole and weld it to the plate. Make sure to place it exactly in the center, this will help screwing the mould to the injector easily, and make the plastic flow through more fluently. -This part needs to align perfectly to the rest of the mould and the injection machine, so try to work as precisely as possible. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/plate-mould/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/plate-mould/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index f4bab1f79..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/plate-mould/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Sand the mould edges - - The mould will be more user friendly if you sand the hard edges away, as CNC cut aluminum can be very sharp. Optionally, I would advise that you add an inclined edge to the bottom part of the mould, this will make it much easier to open and close the mould. -It is important that the inside of the mould is sanded and polished for a clean finish of the product. This will make the difference between a high quality product and a rough one. Use a wooden block with sanding paper to keep your sanding straight. Start with 120 grain size and double the amount with each step (120, 240, 440 etc. all the way up to 2000). - -Use a cloth to clean your mould from aluminium dust. Don’t blow it out of the mould this is very bad for your lungs! After, use metal grained steel wool and then fine steel wool. The last step is to polish your mould with an additional clean cloth and polishing paste. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/plate-mould/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/plate-mould/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index 77e887fea..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/plate-mould/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Assemble the mould - - You are now done with the mould’s preps and can assemble all the parts together. First connect the top and bottom part, using the dowel pins to help you with alignment and bolts and nuts to tighten all together. Then you can connect the connector plate to the top and bottom part of the mould. You’re now good to go. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/plate-mould/step_8.md b/resources/howtos-oa/plate-mould/step_8.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8e0eadb19..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/plate-mould/step_8.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Get yo plastic! - - Use PP, HDPE, LDPE or PS (you probably will have most success with PP or LDPE). -The maximum amount that can be used for the standard injector is 150g. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/plate-mould/step_9.md b/resources/howtos-oa/plate-mould/step_9.md deleted file mode 100644 index 566e0d911..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/plate-mould/step_9.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### oh man! Injection time! - - Fully fill the injector with material, but be careful not to overfill as this can lead to plastic glueing to the hopper or outside of the injector. Set your temperature based on the correct melting temperatures for your plastic type. It’s good to make the lower heating element slightly hotter than the upper, to avoid solidification of the plastic. -Move the injector lever up and down to push the material deeper into the barrel. Afterwards add more material, and leave the handle bar down to keep pressure on the plastic. After around 15 min heating lift the handle bar up and open the injector. Cut away the first drip of plastic from the barrel (might still contain some unmelted plastic), and directly screw your mould to the injector. -Wear a protective mask and eye cover, as well as heat resistant gloves during this part of the process. Safety first. -Inject your plastic by pulling down with all the pressure that you can manage, to create one continuous injection. You will need to maintain pressure for 30 seconds. Do not press in parts! If you are not sure that your strength and weight are enough, you can ask someone to help you in applying force to the injection. - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/polygonal-mould-for-sheet-press/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/polygonal-mould-for-sheet-press/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index b0227da7d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/polygonal-mould-for-sheet-press/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11 +0,0 @@ -### Polygonal mould for sheet press - - -Plastic sheets made with sheet press don't need to be square. - -Here we are showing you how to create octagonal mould to create octagonal plastic sheets. The same methods can be applied to create any polygonal mould for the sheetpress (triangle, hexagonal, etc) - -You can watch the full video tutorial on precious plastic’s youtube channel here: -https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WSZq_9a-XMQ&t=81s - -Don't hesitate to contact us if you have any questions and suggestions for the mould. You can click on our precious plastic profile for the contact information \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/polygonal-mould-for-sheet-press/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/polygonal-mould-for-sheet-press/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 72393b1d3..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/polygonal-mould-for-sheet-press/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,18 +0,0 @@ -### Gather tools and material - - Tools: - -Sheet press set -Angle grinder -Welding tools and materials -Jigsaw -Sander (for product finishing) -Safety gears: welding helmet, safety glasses, mask -Marker -Ruler - -Computer with drafting/drawing software - -Material -Steel for mold: 2x2cm galvanised steel (standard size =6m) -Clean, sorted plastic with types of your choice \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/polygonal-mould-for-sheet-press/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/polygonal-mould-for-sheet-press/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 163f85ee1..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/polygonal-mould-for-sheet-press/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,15 +0,0 @@ -### Draw - - Draw the polygon in any drafting software of your choice. This will give you precise information on the dimension of the individual parts/side of the polygon. We have included our drawing in the drive link above for reference - -Draw the measurement of your sheepress work area - -Offset by 5 cm inwards (space needed around the mould) - -Draw polygon according to the area capacity of your sheet press machines - -Offset by 2 cm inwards (thickness of the galvanise steel) - -Get measurement of dimensions of the mould from the drawing you’ve made - -this drawing would also be useful later on when you are calculating the amount of plastic you need to make the sheets. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/polygonal-mould-for-sheet-press/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/polygonal-mould-for-sheet-press/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index c84c76bb2..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/polygonal-mould-for-sheet-press/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Cut - - After drawing and determining the measurements, cut the 20mm hollow galvanized steel according to size with an angle grinder. - -Draw the measurement with erasable marker for better precision -Cut with angle grinder -With whiteboard marker, draw out the 1:1 template of your sheets to make sure the angles and dimension line up and adjust accordingly \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/polygonal-mould-for-sheet-press/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/polygonal-mould-for-sheet-press/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index e8ac41bd1..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/polygonal-mould-for-sheet-press/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Weld - - With whiteboard marker, draw out the 1:1 template of your sheets to make sure the angles and dimension line up and adjust accordingly. - -Weld all the sides to connect the ends together to make your polygonal sheets diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/polygonal-mould-for-sheet-press/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/polygonal-mould-for-sheet-press/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2b55a85a2..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/polygonal-mould-for-sheet-press/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Finishing - - Grind the excess welding materials with angle grinder - -This step is crucial to make sure that the mould is completely flat against the sheets. Otherwise you will damage the steel plate and the plastic will bleed outside of the mould because it is thicker than it should be. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/polygonal-mould-for-sheet-press/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/polygonal-mould-for-sheet-press/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 42944b411..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/polygonal-mould-for-sheet-press/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,13 +0,0 @@ -### Make your polygonal sheet - - It's time to make your polygonal sheet. - -Use the area of your polygon (from the drawing) to determine the amount of plastic needed to make the sheet - -See precious plastic sheet press "how to" for a step by step tutorial of making a sheet: https://youtu.be/TNG2f_hKc_A - -Visit our profile and let us know if you have tried this :) - -Warmly, - -Wedoo Team \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/polygonal-mould-for-sheetpress/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/polygonal-mould-for-sheetpress/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 77fdb1c5a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/polygonal-mould-for-sheetpress/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11 +0,0 @@ -### Polygonal mould for sheetpress - - -Plastic sheets made with sheet press don't need to be square. - -Here we are showing you how to create octagonal mould to create octagonal plastic sheets. The same methods can be applied to create any polygonal mould for the sheetpress (triangle, hexagonal, etc) - -You can watch the full video tutorial on precious plastic’s youtube channel here: -https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WSZq_9a-XMQ&t=81s - -Dont hesitate to contact us if you have any questions and suggestions for the mould. You can click on our precious plastic profile for the contact information \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/polygonal-mould-for-sheetpress/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/polygonal-mould-for-sheetpress/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 274aab53e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/polygonal-mould-for-sheetpress/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,18 +0,0 @@ -### Gather tools and material - - Tools: - -Sheet press set -Angle grinder -Welding tools and materials -Jigsaw -Sander (for product finishing) -Safety gears: welding helmet, safety glasses, mask -Marker -Ruler - -Computer with drafting/drawing software - -Material -Steel for mold: 2x2cm galvanised steel (standard size =6m) -Clean, sorted plastic with types of your choice diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/polygonal-mould-for-sheetpress/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/polygonal-mould-for-sheetpress/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index e6d27edf3..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/polygonal-mould-for-sheetpress/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,15 +0,0 @@ -### Draw - - Draw the polygon in any drafting software of your choice. This will give you precise information on the dimension of the individual parts/side of the polygon. We have included our drawing in the drive link above for reference - -Draw the measurement of your sheepress work area - -Offset by 5 cm inwards (space needed around the mould) - -Draw polygon according to the area capacity of your sheet press machines - -Offset by 2 cm inwards (thickness of the galvanise steel) - -Get measurement of dimensions of the mould from the drawing you’ve made - -this drawing would also be useful later on when you are calculating the amount of plastic you need to make the sheets. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/polygonal-mould-for-sheetpress/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/polygonal-mould-for-sheetpress/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index c001b9704..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/polygonal-mould-for-sheetpress/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Cut - - After drawing and determining the measurements, cut the 20mm hollow galvanized steel according to size with an angle grinder. - -Draw the measurement with erasable marker for better precision -Cut with angle grinder -With whiteboard marker, draw out the 1:1 template of your sheets to make sure the angles and dimension line up and adjust accordingly diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/polygonal-mould-for-sheetpress/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/polygonal-mould-for-sheetpress/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 911e24d85..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/polygonal-mould-for-sheetpress/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Weld - - With whiteboard marker, draw out the 1:1 template of your sheets to make sure the angles and dimension line up and adjust accordingly. - -Weld all the sides to connect the ends together to make your polygonal sheets - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/polygonal-mould-for-sheetpress/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/polygonal-mould-for-sheetpress/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index f142e73df..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/polygonal-mould-for-sheetpress/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Finishing - - Grind the excess welding materials with angle grinder - -This step is crucial to make sure that the mould is completely flat against the sheets. Otherwise you will damage the steel plate and the plastic will bleed outside of the mould because it is thicker than it should be. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/polygonal-mould-for-sheetpress/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/polygonal-mould-for-sheetpress/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 84eb3a6a5..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/polygonal-mould-for-sheetpress/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Make your polygonal sheet - - It's time to make your polygonal sheet. - -Use the area of your polygon (from the drawing) to determine the amount of plastic needed to make the sheet - -See precious plastic sheet press "how to" for a step by step tutorial of making a sheet: https://youtu.be/TNG2f_hKc_A diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/precious-plastic-clothes-peg-mould/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/precious-plastic-clothes-peg-mould/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index f42ffc202..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/precious-plastic-clothes-peg-mould/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Precious Plastic Clothes Peg Mould - - -Empower your community to make a sustainable impact with the Precious Plastic Clothes Peg Mould. Designed for injection moulding with recycled polypropylene (PP), this mould produces 8 durable pegs in a single cycle. The mould design is open-source, allowing you to download the 3D files and blueprints, add your own logo and text, and CNC mill it for replication within the Precious Plastic community. - -Key Features: -- Recycled Polypropylene: Use PP, a durable and flexible material, ideal for clothes pegs designed to withstand repeated bending. -- Open-Source Design: Access the 3D files and blueprints, customize with your branding, and replicate the mould for wider community use. -- Recycling Code Embossing: One side of the peg features the PP recycling code (â™·), promoting recycling awareness and eco-friendly practices. -- Precious Plastic Branding: The other side of the peg is customized with "Precious Plastic," strengthening the connection to your community's mission. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/precious-plastic-clothes-peg-mould/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/precious-plastic-clothes-peg-mould/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 56df6033d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/precious-plastic-clothes-peg-mould/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Mill the Mould - - In the provided CAD files, you will find the top and bottom part of the mould. Download the files and mill the mould. -If you are using a plastic other than polypropylene, you will have to change the recycling logo accordingly, as this mould was primarily made for PP. -You will also need 16 M8x25 screws. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/precious-plastic-clothes-peg-mould/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/precious-plastic-clothes-peg-mould/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 55f73542c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/precious-plastic-clothes-peg-mould/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Inject - - Assemble the mould and inject. Each injection should give you eight pegs. -One peg weighs 5.5g, all pegs plus sprue and runners about 50g. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/precious-plastic-clothes-peg-mould/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/precious-plastic-clothes-peg-mould/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index e239b2e0c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/precious-plastic-clothes-peg-mould/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Disassembling and afterwork - - Disassemble the mould after injection. If any pegs are stuck in the mould, use a flat tool to carefully lift it out. Trim off any excess plastic and use a blowtorch to soften the edges. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/precious-plastic-clothes-peg-mould/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/precious-plastic-clothes-peg-mould/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index b1a1a3bf9..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/precious-plastic-clothes-peg-mould/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Use it - - The pegs are great as cothes peg, but also to close bags or pix papers, cards, ... -Feel free to comment, get in contact if you like to get any modifications or other moulds. - -Happy recycling! - -Thomas @@{rrguoBLGigPW35rVXqCoPTQdjh13:johannplasto} \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/precious-plastic-font-/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/precious-plastic-font-/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 6d51574ca..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/precious-plastic-font-/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Precious Plastic Font - - -Modified precious plastic font including all the accents, special letters (ñ, ç, ó, ò, ô, ö,...) initially thought for spanish speaking countries but can easily be modified using https://www.glyphrstudio.com/ in case any other characters are missing. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/precious-plastic-font-/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/precious-plastic-font-/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2117fb1ef..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/precious-plastic-font-/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Download - - Download the zip file to your device from this how to. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/precious-plastic-font-/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/precious-plastic-font-/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8fc5b69c1..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/precious-plastic-font-/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Unzip files with winzip (any other will also do!) - - - Right-click on the folder you want to open. From the dropdown, you'll see the option 'Open with WinZip. ... - -- Alternatively, right-click on the "extract files option." Another dropdown menu will appear. - -- This will prompt you to choose the folder or destination you want to extract your zipped file. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/precious-plastic-font-/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/precious-plastic-font-/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index e6009f54e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/precious-plastic-font-/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Install on your device - - Double click on the font file and follow instructions. - -ENJOY!!! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/products-made-from-marine-litter/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/products-made-from-marine-litter/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index c30601260..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/products-made-from-marine-litter/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Products made from marine litter - - -Manufacture of two specific products from recycled polypropylene plastic and fishing nets recovered by fishermen from the coast of Spain. - -Learn more about creation and manufacture of boards or panels using this material here https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/boards-made-from-marine-litter \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/products-made-from-marine-litter/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/products-made-from-marine-litter/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 16c7b12f1..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/products-made-from-marine-litter/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Explanation - - On this guide we have two products made from panels or boards of recycled polypropylene plastic and fishing nets recovered from the sea: - -• Urban bench. -• Dumbbells. - - You can find the creation of panels with a sheetpress in a expanded guide on other how-to called 'Boards made from marine litter'. - -On this guide we will go deeper into creating and manufacturing of products. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/products-made-from-marine-litter/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/products-made-from-marine-litter/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 0cbff97d0..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/products-made-from-marine-litter/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,15 +0,0 @@ -### Cutting and machining of boards - - We usually use CAD and 3D modeling software to design the products and define cutting lines to take it to CNC machine. - -Solidworks, Rhinoceros for 3D modeling and Autocad and Illustrator as CAD software to define cutting lines on 2D. - -Having a predefined design, we take the material to be machined on CNC cutting machine. - -• Tips • - -Always be careful to make the most of the material you spend, always try to manage the cutting space to avoid wasting the boards. - -Plastic boards are a little softer than wood in general, so you could cut in one stroke using the same drill you would use to cut wood. This optimises production time and gives a cleaner finish to plastic parts. Remember always make a test at first. - -You can save the shaving after cut to use it again as raw material on sheetpress or extrusion machine. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/products-made-from-marine-litter/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/products-made-from-marine-litter/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 1fc7b5b6a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/products-made-from-marine-litter/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11 +0,0 @@ -### Manufacturing and assembly of Urban bench. - - Once we have the cut parts we continue with assembly of the bench and its structure. - -In this case, as it is urban furniture, we have designed a metal structure that allows to complement the object and give it stability and durability. - -• Tips • - -For the connection of the plastic elements and the metal structure you can use galvanized or stainless steel screws and nuts. Stainless steel are a little expensive than galvanized ones, but are more resistant to oxidation. - -To screw plastic parts we always recommend to do a drill with the size of the screw you want to install, this prevents the plastic from breaking or deforming when screwing with much pressure. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/products-made-from-marine-litter/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/products-made-from-marine-litter/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 3d75ea726..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/products-made-from-marine-litter/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Manufacturing of Dumbbells. - - To make dumbbells weights (round pieces) we use the same marine litter boards than bench in previous steps and we also cut them on CNC machine. - -For manufacturing handless of dumbbells we use a colorful mix recycled plastic from bottles caps. - -We use an extrusion machine to make plastic rods 3 meters long and diferent shapes and thicknesses, rounded or square. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/products-made-from-marine-litter/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/products-made-from-marine-litter/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index c664c06a7..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/products-made-from-marine-litter/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Assembly of dumbbells - - To assemble the pieces, we used stainless steel screws. So, as we recommended before, the first thing we do is a drill bit the size of the screw we will use, in this case we did 3mm drill to 4mm screws. - -• Tip • - -To assemble different types of plastic parts, we have decided to use torx head screws to give security to the products and that they are not so easy to disassemble. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/profit-with-boards--wrlsdn-slkfjvdb/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/profit-with-boards--wrlsdn-slkfjvdb/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index e16a27f05..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/profit-with-boards--wrlsdn-slkfjvdb/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### PROFIT WITH BOARDS wrlsdn slkfjvdb - - -We developed a sheetpress for the mix of all kinds of plastic, inclusive flakes from shredding. In a tray 20 cm high we heat and press 15 cm of flakes down to 1 cm boards. Then we take the tray off and put it into a wooden frame for cooling. The oven is free for the next tray. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/profit-with-boards--wrlsdn-slkfjvdb/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/profit-with-boards--wrlsdn-slkfjvdb/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index bc0ae6e47..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/profit-with-boards--wrlsdn-slkfjvdb/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Profit from waste - - See underneath \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/profit-with-boards--wrlsdn-slkfjvdb/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/profit-with-boards--wrlsdn-slkfjvdb/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 0b7c6b5b2..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/profit-with-boards--wrlsdn-slkfjvdb/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Profit from waste - - ...s,djv \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/profit-with-boards--wrlsdn-slkfjvdb/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/profit-with-boards--wrlsdn-slkfjvdb/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index ae22a5bd6..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/profit-with-boards--wrlsdn-slkfjvdb/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Profit from waste - - We produce 12 boards a day, work is one euro per board, electricity and material sums up to 1,6 Euros. This us a competative price in Southeast Asia -We make profit with little investment. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/profit-with-boards-/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/profit-with-boards-/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index f0a13b420..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/profit-with-boards-/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### PROFIT WITH BOARDS - - -We developed a sheetpress for the mix of all kinds of plastic, inclusive flakes from shredding. In a tray 20 cm high we heat and press 15 cm of flakes down to 1 cm boards. Then we take the tray off and put it into a wooden frame for cooling. The oven is free for the next tray. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/profit-with-boards-/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/profit-with-boards-/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index bc0ae6e47..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/profit-with-boards-/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Profit from waste - - See underneath \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/profit-with-boards-/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/profit-with-boards-/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 26eb54dde..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/profit-with-boards-/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Profit from waste - - ... \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/profit-with-boards-/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/profit-with-boards-/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index ae22a5bd6..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/profit-with-boards-/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Profit from waste - - We produce 12 boards a day, work is one euro per board, electricity and material sums up to 1,6 Euros. This us a competative price in Southeast Asia -We make profit with little investment. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/rapid-fire-method-for-injection--300-face-shields-a-day/Step_1_Extrude_hot_munition.PNG b/resources/howtos-oa/rapid-fire-method-for-injection--300-face-shields-a-day/Step_1_Extrude_hot_munition.PNG deleted file mode 100644 index c4f8d0b11..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/rapid-fire-method-for-injection--300-face-shields-a-day/Step_1_Extrude_hot_munition.PNG +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -version https://git-lfs.github.com/spec/v1 -oid sha256:d75768a2f7429f355c987976c17ee30150bc55935e3985729cace585e1ac4d2a -size 106575 diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/rapid-fire-method-for-injection--300-face-shields-a-day/Step_1_Extrude_hot_munition_cutting.PNG b/resources/howtos-oa/rapid-fire-method-for-injection--300-face-shields-a-day/Step_1_Extrude_hot_munition_cutting.PNG deleted file mode 100644 index 1df321d32..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/rapid-fire-method-for-injection--300-face-shields-a-day/Step_1_Extrude_hot_munition_cutting.PNG +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -version https://git-lfs.github.com/spec/v1 -oid sha256:5863bbafc19f14b24c1fa9a753629268df5774b5b40eaf99c2548e113a787f8c -size 74924 diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/rapid-fire-method-for-injection--300-face-shields-a-day/Step_1_Munition.PNG b/resources/howtos-oa/rapid-fire-method-for-injection--300-face-shields-a-day/Step_1_Munition.PNG deleted file mode 100644 index 3c1040e04..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/rapid-fire-method-for-injection--300-face-shields-a-day/Step_1_Munition.PNG +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -version https://git-lfs.github.com/spec/v1 -oid sha256:85b9d8e8f4faf4477dd20bb1e0271aee629e5599f17a8e600e66658fae8e5fbc -size 74361 diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/rapid-fire-method-for-injection--300-face-shields-a-day/Step_2_load_injection.PNG b/resources/howtos-oa/rapid-fire-method-for-injection--300-face-shields-a-day/Step_2_load_injection.PNG deleted file mode 100644 index e37213850..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/rapid-fire-method-for-injection--300-face-shields-a-day/Step_2_load_injection.PNG +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -version https://git-lfs.github.com/spec/v1 -oid sha256:4d44d80c557ff5934f3116384c88b574eae9f6c4abba61fb8df54743bb4c50e6 -size 131136 diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/rapid-fire-method-for-injection--300-face-shields-a-day/Step_3_inject.PNG b/resources/howtos-oa/rapid-fire-method-for-injection--300-face-shields-a-day/Step_3_inject.PNG deleted file mode 100644 index 041193a1a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/rapid-fire-method-for-injection--300-face-shields-a-day/Step_3_inject.PNG +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -version https://git-lfs.github.com/spec/v1 -oid sha256:052bc4f174c2106fbee7647daa15d61c922fa9489aa883a70c4d1fd1ce5f0e42 -size 104215 diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/rapid-fire-method-for-injection--300-face-shields-a-day/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/rapid-fire-method-for-injection--300-face-shields-a-day/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index ac5146b71..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/rapid-fire-method-for-injection--300-face-shields-a-day/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,12 +0,0 @@ -### Rapid-Fire-Method for Injection / 300 Face Shields a Day - - -With our Rapid-Fire-Method you can reduce your time-per-part by 50%. - -We started 3D-Printing face shields a while ago, but we couldn´t keep up with the demand. So we built a small injection machine to speed up production. Though we had to wait 7-8 minutes bevor we could make another face shield frame, because the plastic flakes had to heat up. - -To reduce the time-per-part we invented the Rapid-Fire-Method. Using our extruder we produce hot munition for the injection and instantly process it. - -We made a video how to do this. Check it out: - -https://youtu.be/69aYBJfxHw0 \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/rapid-fire-method-for-injection--300-face-shields-a-day/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/rapid-fire-method-for-injection--300-face-shields-a-day/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index ad9309228..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/rapid-fire-method-for-injection--300-face-shields-a-day/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Extrude hot munition - - Instead of filling up the injection machine with flakes, use your extruder to produce hot munition. Remove the nozzle, in order to extrude thick stripes. Instantly take them and fill your injection barrel with them. - -In the extruder, the plastic is mixed well and heated properly, so it is instantly processable with the injection machine. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/rapid-fire-method-for-injection--300-face-shields-a-day/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/rapid-fire-method-for-injection--300-face-shields-a-day/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index ed4b50944..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/rapid-fire-method-for-injection--300-face-shields-a-day/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Load Injection Machine - - Take the hot stripes and insert them into the barrel of the injection machine. Try to extrude them a bit thinner than the diameter of your barrel. If they are too thick it will be a pain to load the machine. If they are to thin the barrel won't be loaded to its full extent. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/rapid-fire-method-for-injection--300-face-shields-a-day/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/rapid-fire-method-for-injection--300-face-shields-a-day/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index dbf43760a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/rapid-fire-method-for-injection--300-face-shields-a-day/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Fire the injection Machine - - Now place the mold under your injection machine and inject the melted plastic. In this case, we are using the professional mold for face shields from Plastic Preneur (a cool company from Austria). In order to achieve maximum efficiency, we have one person reload the injection machine, while the other person opens & closes the mold. This way, we achieve a cycle of about 2 minutes per part. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/recycle-plastic-waste-into-3d-printing-filament/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/recycle-plastic-waste-into-3d-printing-filament/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 5f8dba435..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/recycle-plastic-waste-into-3d-printing-filament/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Recycle plastic waste into 3d printing filament - - -In this how to we show you how you can recycle plastic waste into 3d printing filament. There are some things to watch out for and different machines needed to make for the best results. - -You can check out our How-To video here: -https://youtu.be/IcmKFDxsUgA - -Feel free to visit our website :) -https://www.qitech.de/en/industries \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/recycle-plastic-waste-into-3d-printing-filament/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/recycle-plastic-waste-into-3d-printing-filament/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index a23153c48..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/recycle-plastic-waste-into-3d-printing-filament/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Shredding - - First, you will have to shred the material. We use our JARVIS Shredder, but if you don't have access to a shredder you can also look for workshops nearby on the Precious Plastic map or try some budget methods, e.g. a hand cranked shredder, a document shredder or the scissors-blender-combo. The more uniform the granulate is, the better the final result will be. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/recycle-plastic-waste-into-3d-printing-filament/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/recycle-plastic-waste-into-3d-printing-filament/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 493697bd5..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/recycle-plastic-waste-into-3d-printing-filament/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Drying - - The next step is drying the material. We already published a thorough How-to on drying polymers with a self-built dry box, which you can check out here: - -https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/dry-materials-for-higher-quality-products \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/recycle-plastic-waste-into-3d-printing-filament/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/recycle-plastic-waste-into-3d-printing-filament/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index a2259a742..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/recycle-plastic-waste-into-3d-printing-filament/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Extruding - - Next up is the main step: extruding. Obviously, you will need an extruder. You can build one yourself using the Precious Plastic blueprints (https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/set-up-an-extrusion-workspace) or buy one online, e.g. on Precious Plastic Bazar. We also created a comparison list of different extruder models on our website, you can check it out here: https://www.qitech.de/en/ind/academy-area/filament-extruder-comparision. -We work with our 6th generation extruder and along the way of the development we learned that the following 3 things are especially important: -1. A proper compression screw -2. Precise temperature measurements and controls -3. Nozzles easily exchangeable \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/recycle-plastic-waste-into-3d-printing-filament/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/recycle-plastic-waste-into-3d-printing-filament/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index ac4b8a963..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/recycle-plastic-waste-into-3d-printing-filament/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Cooling - - With hot filament coming out of the extruder it needs to get cooled and wound onto a spool. You can cool the Filament using water or air. We recommend using an air cooling system, because water cooling is a complicated mess and as long as you are making less than 3Kg/h an air cooling system works just fine. The most simple and cheap method is using a tower ventilator which you position horizontally under the filament. We use our own cooling unit, the JARVIS Airpath. Its fans can be controlled precisely in order to harden the filament but keep it soft enough to easily wind it on spools. The winding process will work best if the single filament tracks stick to each other slightly. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/recycle-plastic-waste-into-3d-printing-filament/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/recycle-plastic-waste-into-3d-printing-filament/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index a3b15bd81..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/recycle-plastic-waste-into-3d-printing-filament/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Winding - - Finally, the filament can be wound onto a spool to be used with a 3d printer later. You will need a filament winder which should have a pull unit, a guider (to spool the single tracks from one side to the other) and a turning spool axis. An important factor to look out for when buying/building a Winder is that the filament always stays on tension so you don't end up with loose spools. -For this step, we use our JARVIS Winder; a winding unit that adjusts its spool motor speed automatically and makes perfect winding possible while maintaining the diameter of the filament as well. Simply insert the filament into the puller, thread it through the guider and then into the spool. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/recycle-plastic-waste-into-3d-printing-filament/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/recycle-plastic-waste-into-3d-printing-filament/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 870b94cfb..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/recycle-plastic-waste-into-3d-printing-filament/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Printing - - Now you can put your brand new filament to use with a 3d printer. Happy printing! :) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/recycled-plastic-lego-pieces/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/recycled-plastic-lego-pieces/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index dc16ce0c2..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/recycled-plastic-lego-pieces/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Recycled plastic Lego Pieces - - -Legos made out of plastic. Easy to make and super fun for kids to enjoy. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/recycled-plastic-lego-pieces/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/recycled-plastic-lego-pieces/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 3f1725b30..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/recycled-plastic-lego-pieces/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Create first layer on adobe illustrate - - The first layer will be the circles used for the Lego "connecting parts" Use whatever measurements you find best. Make sure it is centered in the square. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/recycled-plastic-lego-pieces/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/recycled-plastic-lego-pieces/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2328a4aca..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/recycled-plastic-lego-pieces/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Layer 2 - - Create a new layer on Adobe Illustrator. On this layer, you will have the outline of the Lego piece. This is how big your actual Lego piece will be. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/recycled-plastic-lego-pieces/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/recycled-plastic-lego-pieces/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 21d7a4a96..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/recycled-plastic-lego-pieces/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Layer 3 - - This layer is very similar to the first layer. But you will make these circles a bit bigger and they will be the "holes". This is so the Lego pieces can fit through them. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/recycled-plastic-lego-pieces/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/recycled-plastic-lego-pieces/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 83e7b94c5..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/recycled-plastic-lego-pieces/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Injecting part 1 - - Upload your designs onto glowforge. This program will laser-cut your templates. These laser cutted templates will then be sent to the machine that melts plastic. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/recycled-plastic-lego-pieces/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/recycled-plastic-lego-pieces/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index cc8993068..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/recycled-plastic-lego-pieces/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Injecting part 2 - - Lastly, send of your design to be injected, and you should have some beautiful Lego pieces. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/recycled-plastic-prosthetic-leg/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/recycled-plastic-prosthetic-leg/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9d009b992..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/recycled-plastic-prosthetic-leg/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Recycled Plastic Prosthetic leg - - -Here is how we create prosthetic legs made with recycled plastic. - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/recycled-plastic-prosthetic-leg/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/recycled-plastic-prosthetic-leg/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 6287c235b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/recycled-plastic-prosthetic-leg/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Measure the patient’s leg - - A \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/recycled-plastic-prosthetic-leg/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/recycled-plastic-prosthetic-leg/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 16c0e45b8..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/recycled-plastic-prosthetic-leg/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Create mould of patient’s leg with gypsum - - Use the measurement to create a mould with gypsum \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/recycled-plastic-prosthetic-leg/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/recycled-plastic-prosthetic-leg/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 903cf812f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/recycled-plastic-prosthetic-leg/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Make the sheets - - We are using oven because we dont have enough electricity for our workspace. You can also use a sheetpress - -Make 3-5mm thick sheets with PP plastic - -We recommend using PP because it is softer and more flexible than HDPE \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/reduce-micro-plastic--dust-when-shredding/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/reduce-micro-plastic--dust-when-shredding/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 1b4841b30..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/reduce-micro-plastic--dust-when-shredding/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Reduce micro-plastic & dust when shredding - - -Minimise micro-plastic and dust with this simple shredder upgrade! This simple hack also helps when it comes time to clean your shredder for colour or material changes. - -You'll need the following components for this project: -• Vacuum -• 20L Bucket -• Cyclone Dust Collector -• Funnel diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/reduce-micro-plastic--dust-when-shredding/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/reduce-micro-plastic--dust-when-shredding/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index db63dfef9..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/reduce-micro-plastic--dust-when-shredding/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### The Vacuum - - The vacuum, is of course the most crucial component of this hack. You can use something you already have, or purchase a vacuum fit for purpose. - -We went with a backpack vacuum - our small workshop is a shared space, so we need something that is fairly compact and quiet, yet powerful. As our vacuum needs to run for long periods of time, we also felt it was best to opt for one that's built for commercial use. - -Direct link to our vacuum of choice: https://sydneytools.com.au/product/bayer-bp45l-1200w-hi-powered-4-5l-tank-dry-backpack-vacuum - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/reduce-micro-plastic--dust-when-shredding/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/reduce-micro-plastic--dust-when-shredding/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 944a71a8b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/reduce-micro-plastic--dust-when-shredding/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### The Bucket - - This type of bucket is fairly common, and generally pretty easy to source secondhand. Look for something in good condition, with a removable lid. - -Additionally, a round bucket tends to work better than a square container for this purpose. - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/reduce-micro-plastic--dust-when-shredding/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/reduce-micro-plastic--dust-when-shredding/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 00ed065b9..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/reduce-micro-plastic--dust-when-shredding/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Dust Cyclone - - Dust cyclones remove over 99% of dust and debris from the airstream, containing it before it ever reaches the vacuum. We've been running our Dust Extractor for quiet a while, and are yet to spot even a speck of plastic in our vacuum. - -The cyclone will include a cutting template and instructions, along with nuts/bolts and connection pieces. We picked one up from eBay for around $40AUD: https://bit.ly/3iKR4e6 - -If you're keen to save some cash or prefer a DIY option, check out this tutorial: https://bit.ly/33FxUSP \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/reduce-micro-plastic--dust-when-shredding/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/reduce-micro-plastic--dust-when-shredding/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index d4ecfbfec..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/reduce-micro-plastic--dust-when-shredding/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### The Funnel - - You'll need an airtight funnel to capture the shredded plastic as it falls from the sieve into the vacuum hose. -You can use something purpose built, 3D printed, or a D Square grate and plumbing pipe. - -Something like this certainly does the job: www.timbecon.com.au/dust-extractor-hood-large-big-gulp - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/reduce-micro-plastic--dust-when-shredding/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/reduce-micro-plastic--dust-when-shredding/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8cbeccf4c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/reduce-micro-plastic--dust-when-shredding/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,17 +0,0 @@ -### Connect all the bits! - - Cyclone: -• Place the template (included with cyclone) in the middle of the lid -• Mark and drill the bolt holes -• Mark and cut centre hole -• Connect the cyclone using the nuts and bolts provided (see images in Step 3) - -Funnel: -• Connect the funnel directly below the shredder sieve. We used a connected a D Square grate, some left over plumbing pipe and cut a whole in the cap (see image in Step 4) - -Vacuum connection: -• Cut the vacuum pipe in half -• Using one half of the cut vacuum pipe, connect the top outlet of the cyclone to the vacuum -• Connect the side inlet of the cyclone to the funnel beneath your shredder - -Happy shredding! diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/rescue-a-single-use-product/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/rescue-a-single-use-product/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 096f41f67..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/rescue-a-single-use-product/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Rescue a single-use product - - -Single-use products do still get used a lot. In this how-to, we show you in a few steps on how to collect these products, so you are able to import them into the Precious Plastic Universe. - -It's also a good way to create awareness and promote your Collection Point if you have one. And by being focused on the collection of one certain product you will increase the value of your recycled plastic. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/rescue-a-single-use-product/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/rescue-a-single-use-product/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7bffcef0b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/rescue-a-single-use-product/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Research - - Have a walk through your local area to find places where they use single-use products. Choose one that you are going to save from the waste. Observe how the product gets used? What is the reason for using this product? Are you able to clean it easily? - -To get a clear overview you can write them all down, so you can start to create ideas based on this information. - -This can be, for example, ice-cream spoons from local ice-cream shops as they are very common and already clean (licked :). Be creative and find some single-use products that you are able to save. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/rescue-a-single-use-product/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/rescue-a-single-use-product/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index aeec723f6..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/rescue-a-single-use-product/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Brainstorm - - Get your creative mind working (maybe with some chocolate or coffee ;) )and start to write all the words that are related to this product. These words will make it easier to come up with some sentences that you can use in your graphic content. -The sentences need to tell the user of the single-use product to drop the (clean) used product in the bucket after using it. Keep it short and clear so people do read it before they throw their spoon. - -Extra awareness: If you can, add a note to make the person think twice before he decides to use the single-use product. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/rescue-a-single-use-product/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/rescue-a-single-use-product/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 0a75f4938..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/rescue-a-single-use-product/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Make a rough sketch of the set-up - - Make a sketch of how the set up will look like on the location. How are you going to hang/place the poster? Where are you going to collect the single-use products in? How do you create a connection between these two? - -When you find answers to all these questions you can start gathering all the materials that you need and make it ready to use. Make sure that you ask the owner of the place if he/she agrees with the set-up. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/rescue-a-single-use-product/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/rescue-a-single-use-product/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 5b5964067..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/rescue-a-single-use-product/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Create your own poster - - Make an illustration of the product that you want to collect. This can be done digitally, drawn on paper, painted, etc. When the illustration is done you can add the sentences to make the whole poster speaking for itself. - -Give it an extra check before copying it, make sure that the poster is understandable for anyone by, for example asking feedback from people in your surroundings. - -Tip: Keep it clear and simple diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/rescue-a-single-use-product/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/rescue-a-single-use-product/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 654ef2c39..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/rescue-a-single-use-product/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Find the right spot - - Now you will need to find places where you can place this set-up and start to collect. Visit some locations that use a certain single-use product that you want to collect. Do this with the bucket and the poster, that will make it easier for the owner of the location to understand what you mean. You can also use the presentation + the “how to interact with businessesâ€. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/rescue-a-single-use-product/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/rescue-a-single-use-product/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 163a642dc..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/rescue-a-single-use-product/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Set up - - Once you agreed with the business owner to take care of this part of their plastic waste by having a single-use collection on their location, it is time to set up. Make sure it is done nicely and in a way that smoothly fits with their daily workflow (you don't want to disrupt their work). \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/rescue-a-single-use-product/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/rescue-a-single-use-product/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index 3a618f097..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/rescue-a-single-use-product/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Time to rescue - - Now it’s time to save these single-use beauties from the waste into the Precious Plastic recycle flow. By collecting a certain product, that does come in regularly, you will create a more valuable recycled plastic kind for the shredder workspace to buy. This because you know that it will always have the same colors, quality, weight and that it is clean. By separating this plastic, from the sticky labels plastic you keep the quality as high as possible. - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/reversible-bucket-hat-from-polyester-fabric-how-to/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/reversible-bucket-hat-from-polyester-fabric-how-to/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index e6ca054c8..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/reversible-bucket-hat-from-polyester-fabric-how-to/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Reversible Bucket Hat from Polyester Fabric How-To - - -This How-To will walk you through how to make your own bucket hat. In this tutorial, we chose to use a polyester fabric from discarded polyester banners, but you may choose any other suitable material to your liking. - -We were inspired by all the options in fabric kind of like the ironing technique: https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/make-a-durable-tote-bag-from-plastic-bags \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/reversible-bucket-hat-from-polyester-fabric-how-to/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/reversible-bucket-hat-from-polyester-fabric-how-to/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2dd319594..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/reversible-bucket-hat-from-polyester-fabric-how-to/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11 +0,0 @@ -### Gather materials and equipment. - - For this project, all you will need is: -1.) Fabric of your choosing -2.) Scissors -3.) Thread -4.) Sewing machine -5.) Bobbin -6.) Sewing template* - -*Sewing templates can be downloaded for free. All you need to do is to do a quick Google search for "bucket hat sewing template" and choose any one that you see fit! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/reversible-bucket-hat-from-polyester-fabric-how-to/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/reversible-bucket-hat-from-polyester-fabric-how-to/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7a727bc16..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/reversible-bucket-hat-from-polyester-fabric-how-to/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Select your fabric. - - If you want your bucket hat to be reversible, choose materials of different colors! Just make sure that the fabric you choose will be easy to work with. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/reversible-bucket-hat-from-polyester-fabric-how-to/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/reversible-bucket-hat-from-polyester-fabric-how-to/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 0a6110e36..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/reversible-bucket-hat-from-polyester-fabric-how-to/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Cut your materials using your bucket hat template. - - This bucket hat design consists of three parts: the brim, the band, and the top. Follow the template and cut your fabric into these three shapes. You will need to make four pieces of fabric for the brim, four pieces for the band, and two pieces for the top. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/reversible-bucket-hat-from-polyester-fabric-how-to/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/reversible-bucket-hat-from-polyester-fabric-how-to/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index fe0f21150..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/reversible-bucket-hat-from-polyester-fabric-how-to/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Layer the band pieces and sew them together. - - Be sure to layer the different colors of fabric so that the colors will be on different sides of the piece. - -If you are new to sewing or are unsure how to start, find a simple sewing tutorial on Youtube or another website that is easy for you to follow. The sewing required for the bucket hat is very simple and easy to learn! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/reversible-bucket-hat-from-polyester-fabric-how-to/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/reversible-bucket-hat-from-polyester-fabric-how-to/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index db3125523..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/reversible-bucket-hat-from-polyester-fabric-how-to/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Sew the two ends of the band piece together. - - This will form the "band" shape of the hat. Before you sew, make sure that the band will fit around your head. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/reversible-bucket-hat-from-polyester-fabric-how-to/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/reversible-bucket-hat-from-polyester-fabric-how-to/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 33ee27c63..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/reversible-bucket-hat-from-polyester-fabric-how-to/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Layer the top pieces and sew them together. - - Make sure that the top pieces will fit on the the band piece before you sew! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/reversible-bucket-hat-from-polyester-fabric-how-to/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/reversible-bucket-hat-from-polyester-fabric-how-to/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index 0544c3a2f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/reversible-bucket-hat-from-polyester-fabric-how-to/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Sew the top piece on top of the band piece. - - At this point, you will have a hat without a brim. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/reversible-bucket-hat-from-polyester-fabric-how-to/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/reversible-bucket-hat-from-polyester-fabric-how-to/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index de38a92f0..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/reversible-bucket-hat-from-polyester-fabric-how-to/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Layer the brim pieces and sew them together. - - Make sure to sew the brim pieces on both sides. Also, be sure that the brim pieces will fit around your head or are not too big before you sew! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/reversible-bucket-hat-from-polyester-fabric-how-to/step_8.md b/resources/howtos-oa/reversible-bucket-hat-from-polyester-fabric-how-to/step_8.md deleted file mode 100644 index d816f674b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/reversible-bucket-hat-from-polyester-fabric-how-to/step_8.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Sew the two ends of the brim piece together. - - Once complete, you will now have a brim with hole in the middle. It should be in the shape of a donut. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/reversible-bucket-hat-from-polyester-fabric-how-to/step_9.md b/resources/howtos-oa/reversible-bucket-hat-from-polyester-fabric-how-to/step_9.md deleted file mode 100644 index 0c069d990..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/reversible-bucket-hat-from-polyester-fabric-how-to/step_9.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Sew the brim piece to the bottom of the hat band. - - Once complete, you will now have a reversible bucket hat! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/run-a-workshop-on-an-event/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/run-a-workshop-on-an-event/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 03bef1514..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/run-a-workshop-on-an-event/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Run a workshop on an event - - -A crucial part of working towards reducing plastic pollution is to show people the process offline! The following introduction gives you a quick overview about all the stuff we at Kunststoffschmiede pay attention before starting a workshop in public. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/run-a-workshop-on-an-event/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/run-a-workshop-on-an-event/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 34484e75b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/run-a-workshop-on-an-event/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Prepare your machines - - Ok, so before you start giving workshops, think about what kind of machine you would like to use in this context. What kind of workshop is it? How many people are coming and how much time do they have? -All the machines you use in public have to be safe against gross negligence. For a better performance, make sure that everything is clean, working properly and maybe you have some spare parts with you. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/run-a-workshop-on-an-event/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/run-a-workshop-on-an-event/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4b6775a04..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/run-a-workshop-on-an-event/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Prepare your moulds - - Like the machines you use in public your moulds have to be reliable as well. We recommend moulds with a small cycle time, so as many people as possible can produce a product... - -That means: -- Quick release-System to open and close your mould fast -- Small injection volume -- The product is easy to demould diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/run-a-workshop-on-an-event/step_10.md b/resources/howtos-oa/run-a-workshop-on-an-event/step_10.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4fcf6777f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/run-a-workshop-on-an-event/step_10.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,12 +0,0 @@ -### Site-specific questions - - As mentioned before you are leaving your lovely workshop. So sad :( -To be sure that everything runs great with your mobile workshop, you should clarify the following questions with the organizer: - -- Power source: Is it strong enough, and how far is the plug? -- You need fresh water? Ask for the next water tap. -- Weather conditions: Is it protected from rain, ventilated with fresh air? -- How much space is available? -- What kind of people are expected? -- When are construction and dismantling times? -- Who is liable if something goes wrong? diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/run-a-workshop-on-an-event/step_11.md b/resources/howtos-oa/run-a-workshop-on-an-event/step_11.md deleted file mode 100644 index afe70c760..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/run-a-workshop-on-an-event/step_11.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Construction on site - - Label all the stations and create enough space around the machines so many people can see what’s happening. Compare your setup with the course of the recycling process and check if it’s similar. - -Build up your mobile workshop with enough time and take a break before everything starts. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/run-a-workshop-on-an-event/step_12.md b/resources/howtos-oa/run-a-workshop-on-an-event/step_12.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8334acfee..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/run-a-workshop-on-an-event/step_12.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Timing - - Test everything beforehand with friends, so that you’re sure it runs smoothly. Then you have a better feeling and you know on what points you have to work on. If you do not practice, you won’t know how many people you can look after at the same time etc. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/run-a-workshop-on-an-event/step_13.md b/resources/howtos-oa/run-a-workshop-on-an-event/step_13.md deleted file mode 100644 index 66b464741..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/run-a-workshop-on-an-event/step_13.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Participation - - Think carefully about how to get strangers involved in the process. What can they do without endangering themselves or the machines? \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/run-a-workshop-on-an-event/step_14.md b/resources/howtos-oa/run-a-workshop-on-an-event/step_14.md deleted file mode 100644 index ec6aa09c1..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/run-a-workshop-on-an-event/step_14.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Post processing - - The last step is all about documentation... - -How many people have you reached and how many products did you produce? Could you make interesting contacts or was the press there and wrote a report about you? - -It’s good to track your impact and learn from your experiences. -And of course collect all your pictures! :) diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/run-a-workshop-on-an-event/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/run-a-workshop-on-an-event/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 143603bcc..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/run-a-workshop-on-an-event/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,18 +0,0 @@ -### Prepare your equipment - - You are leaving your workshop, so you need everything to run a plastic recycling workshop mobile. -As everyone has their own way of doing it, you get a list from Kunststoffschmiede (Germany) for your inspiration: - -- Injection machine and the bicycle shredder -- Tools for maintenance -- Productcounter -- Electric box (including: Power cable, distributer and some lights) -- Moulds -- Shredded plastic -- Clean and unshredded plastic -- Samples from us and the community to show the possibilities -- Informations like flyers and posters -- First Aid Kit -- Camera -- strap, tape and ropes -- Tub and cleaning stuff to wash the plastic diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/run-a-workshop-on-an-event/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/run-a-workshop-on-an-event/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 28dc01166..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/run-a-workshop-on-an-event/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Prepare your materials - - For your workshop you need shredded plastic and some clean plastic which is ready to be shredded. Reserves are always good, maybe the shredder stops working and you are running out of fresh granules… Be prepared! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/run-a-workshop-on-an-event/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/run-a-workshop-on-an-event/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index f8c3673b8..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/run-a-workshop-on-an-event/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Prepare samples - - It’s always good to have a variety of material and product samples to inspire people and help them understand the possibilities of plastic recycling. -You can use your own products, or get some more from the Precious Plastic Bazar to show what other workspaces around the world are doing. Present the products in a beautiful setting. -👉 bazar.preciousplastic.com diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/run-a-workshop-on-an-event/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/run-a-workshop-on-an-event/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index b609e9f64..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/run-a-workshop-on-an-event/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Prepare your message - - You also have to prepare yourself and ask yourself these questions: - -- Why are you giving this workshop? -- What kind of knowledge and experience do you want to teach people? -- What are your good at? diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/run-a-workshop-on-an-event/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/run-a-workshop-on-an-event/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4572ca558..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/run-a-workshop-on-an-event/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11 +0,0 @@ -### Prepare your team - - Don’t be alone, it’s much more fun and relaxed to work in a team!+ - -Here at Kunststoffschmiede we recommend 3-4 supervisors when you’re working with two machines. There are always people who have a lot of questions. - -What does your team need: -- perfect operation of the machines and moulds -- communicative -- Your mindset is on one level. So your workshops have a consistent quality. -- They know the answers to the most asked questions. 👉 Next step! diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/run-a-workshop-on-an-event/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/run-a-workshop-on-an-event/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index 64fb444c4..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/run-a-workshop-on-an-event/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,12 +0,0 @@ -### Typical questions asked at a workshop in public: - - During the process most of the people have a lot of questions. We recommend that you always have an answer to the following question: - -- What’s your story/backround? -- What’s your goal? -- What’s precious plastic? -- Can you be booked -- What type of plastic are you able to recycle? -- Are the fumes toxic? -- What is plastic? (ingredients) -- How can I change my lifestyle into an ecofriendly lifestyle? diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/run-a-workshop-on-an-event/step_8.md b/resources/howtos-oa/run-a-workshop-on-an-event/step_8.md deleted file mode 100644 index 63c0dbc4f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/run-a-workshop-on-an-event/step_8.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11 +0,0 @@ -### Wanna get money? - - Be aware that you are doing something special that only a few can offer. And if you're asked to do a workshop, then think about whether you want to be paid for it. How much money you take is up to you. It depends on what circumstances you have to deal with. - -Here are some cost items listed: -- Transport -- Use of the machine, moulds and other tools -- Fee for your team -- Placing cost -- Coordination -- Overhead for your organisation diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/run-a-workshop-on-an-event/step_9.md b/resources/howtos-oa/run-a-workshop-on-an-event/step_9.md deleted file mode 100644 index 1d527e3b8..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/run-a-workshop-on-an-event/step_9.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Promote your workshop - - Depending on how open the event is, make sure you don’t forget to let people know about your workshop, so that as many people as possible get the chance to see and learn. - -There are several places where you can announce it, here some ideas: -- post a story/post on social media with #preciousplastic -- post it in your country’s channel on the Precious Plastic Discord -- create an event on the community platform -👉 community.preciousplastic.com/events diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/self-compressing-oven-mould-for-making-sheets/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/self-compressing-oven-mould-for-making-sheets/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index e1757075a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/self-compressing-oven-mould-for-making-sheets/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Self-compressing oven mould for making sheets - - -This Tutorial is about making sheets with a self-compressing mould and a kitchen oven. The approach has a very low invest and the possibility to make a few sheets in parallel. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/self-compressing-oven-mould-for-making-sheets/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/self-compressing-oven-mould-for-making-sheets/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index b138996a9..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/self-compressing-oven-mould-for-making-sheets/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,18 +0,0 @@ -### Cut the raw material - - You will need two galvanized metal sheets and Aluminium profiles for the frame - -Material: -2 pcs 350x400x3mm galvanized metal sheet -2pcs 12,5x7,5x400mm Aluminium Profile -2pcs 12,5x7,5x325mm Aluminium Profile - -Tools: -Saw or flex - -ToDo: - - Sheets: Normally, you can buy metal sheets in the right dimension. Otherwise you need to mark the dimensions on a bigger one and make a cut out. We use a flex for the cutting but it is also possible to use another kind of saw - -Frame: -Mark the right length on the profile an cut it by using a saw. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/self-compressing-oven-mould-for-making-sheets/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/self-compressing-oven-mould-for-making-sheets/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 702230bc1..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/self-compressing-oven-mould-for-making-sheets/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,17 +0,0 @@ -### Drill assembly holes - - The profiles will be screwed on one metal sheet, therefore you need to drill assembly holes first. - -Material: -Cutted aluminium profiles and one metal sheet - -Tool: -Metal drill 5mm und 8mm, clamp - -To Do: - -Place one 400mm profile on the metal sheet, fix it with a clamp and drill two 5mm holes through profile and metal sheet. A good location fort he holes is around 80mm from each side. - -Now drill two 8mm holes on the upper side oft he aluminium profile. Make sure not to drill through the whole profile. The purpose oft he 8mm hole ist to perfectly fit the M5-Screw-Head into the profile. - -Repeat the steps with the two 325mm profiles and then with the second 400mm profile. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/self-compressing-oven-mould-for-making-sheets/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/self-compressing-oven-mould-for-making-sheets/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4be5a4d0d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/self-compressing-oven-mould-for-making-sheets/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11 +0,0 @@ -### Screw the Alu-profile - - Material: -drilled aluminium profiles and metal sheet, M5 Screw & Nuts - -Tools: -Screw-Driver - -ToDo: - -Place the eight screws in the profile and fix them with the nuts diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/self-compressing-oven-mould-for-making-sheets/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/self-compressing-oven-mould-for-making-sheets/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index c2c8e42aa..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/self-compressing-oven-mould-for-making-sheets/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,14 +0,0 @@ -### Drill compression holes - - You will need four holes which hold the screws for the compression springs. I would suggest to place them in the corners oft he sheets, but it is also possible the locate them anywhere else. - -Material: -Both metal sheets - -Tools: -M6 Drill - -ToDo: - -Place the second metal sheet on the framing and align them for perfect fit. Fixate everything with screw-clamps. Drill one hole in every corner. -Instead of holes, it is also possible to saw a cutout which makes the assembly / disassembly oft he compression screws faster. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/self-compressing-oven-mould-for-making-sheets/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/self-compressing-oven-mould-for-making-sheets/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 023711732..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/self-compressing-oven-mould-for-making-sheets/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11 +0,0 @@ -### First testrun - - The mould is finished so far, let’s test it. - -Material: -Mould; small Plastic-Granulate or Pellets, Silicone-oil spray; oven, M6 Screw, washers, compression spring - -ToDo: - -Give the inside oft he mould a slightly silicone oil cover by spraying a small amount on the top and bottom. -Fill the plastic into the mould and place the cover on the top. Then place the compessions screws in the cut out and tension the spring by screwing. Place the mold in the oven and choose the temperature depending on your plastic. If you don’t know the right temperature, start with 200degree and change it in the next run depending on the outcome. 1,5h baking time is also a good starting point. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/self-compressing-oven-mould-for-making-sheets/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/self-compressing-oven-mould-for-making-sheets/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4ed561669..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/self-compressing-oven-mould-for-making-sheets/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,14 +0,0 @@ -### semi-auto mass production - - To make one sheet with the oven is nice, but it is possible to make a few more in parallel. So you can build a few more moulds an place them all together in the oven. If you don’t want to wait until the baking process is finished, you can also add a timer which switches the oven off automatically. - -Material: -4 pcs. Oven Molds, Timer, Oven-rack(optional) - -Tools: -Screw Driver - -ToDo: - -Prepare all four moulds like shown in step 5. Stack them in the oven and start the baking process. Be aware of the baking time which normally goes up because of the higher thermal mass in the oven. -Start the timer. The oven process now runs automatically with no need of a human for switching off diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/self-compressing-oven-mould-for-making-sheets/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/self-compressing-oven-mould-for-making-sheets/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index 0e204bcad..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/self-compressing-oven-mould-for-making-sheets/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Process Video - - A short Video of the whole process \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/self-compressing-oven-mould-for-making-sheets/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/self-compressing-oven-mould-for-making-sheets/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index 5dfb3f998..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/self-compressing-oven-mould-for-making-sheets/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Results - - Here are some pictures of a sheet made out of ABS. If you compare it with the simplicity of the process, the outcome is really great. After cutting the edges, you will get a flat sheet with good surface. (small pellets / flakes work best) - -So, try the process yourself. Play around with it, hack it and if you find even a better / simpler way to produce sheets, share it with the community by making a How-to - -Let me close with some words of Warning: - -Always pay attention to occupational safety. Wear gloves, safety glases and a respirator mask while working with molten plastics. Don't melt plastic in your cooking oven, buy a cheap second hand oven which you only use for the melting. Thanks :-) diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2635eb1c0..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Set up a Collection Point - - -In this How-to we’re going to guide you through all the steps to set up a Collection Point. Learn about plastic, how to create the space, and how to grow a collection network and connect to the Precious Plastic Universe. - -Step 1-3: Intro -Step 4-11: Learn -Step 12-19: Set up -Step 20-25: Run -Step 26-29: Share \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index d1d1bd778..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Role in the Precious Plastic Universe - - First of all, make sure you had a look at the showcase page of this Starterkit! -👉 preciousplastic.com/starterkits/showcase/collection-point - -Now about your Role: - -Collection Points are the “catchers†of the Precious Plastic Universe. - -They save plastic from going to waste while fueling the network with raw material ready to be recycled. They collect plastic from people and businesses and sort it by type. This plastic is then passed on to Shredder Workspaces. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 82ff18b92..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Outcomes - - The outcome of a Collection Point is collected plastic, cleaned and sorted by type (and colour), ready to be shred and recycled. - -It can be collected from consumers or businesses. It's crucial that the plastic is label-free and clean for further processes, to keep a good quality of the recycled material. The cleaner and purer the plastic the higher its value. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/step_10.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/step_10.md deleted file mode 100644 index ea0f1f5a3..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/step_10.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Understand your local waste management - - It’s important to understand the waste management of your local area. Are there local industrial recycling systems? Do they sort their waste and is plastic sorted separately? Or is it the informal sector taking the load. - -Find out why local people use plastic and what happens with their plastic after throwing it away so you can explain it to people. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/step_11.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/step_11.md deleted file mode 100644 index a92b92b50..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/step_11.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Start with the Action Plan - - Before jumping into finding a space and start collecting, it is smart to sit down to properly plan your project and shape your vision and capture why you want to do this and what your goals are. - -To help you plan we’ve made a tool called the Action Plan that helps you to craft your mission, understand your customers, revenue streams, costs and much more. With this tool you should get a step closer to create a successful project. - -Find the Action Plan in the Download Kit or learn more in the Academy -👉 community.preciousplastic.com/academy/business/actionplan diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/step_12.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/step_12.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7bcb6cb74..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/step_12.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Assemble the team - - Alright, so now that you have a clearer idea of the subject and your vision, you'll need some more people to put this into reality. - -People are what can make a project succeed or fail, so make sure that you have a small team of people who you feel comfortable to work with and who are motivated to do this with you! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/step_13.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/step_13.md deleted file mode 100644 index 20e6d936b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/step_13.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Find a space - - As part of your planning, it is important to find a space. - -To help you find the perfect place for your Collection Point in the Download Kit you will find a floor plan with all the minimum requirements and a little cardboard tool to place your machines and tools in the workspace. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/step_14.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/step_14.md deleted file mode 100644 index e2ba39d9f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/step_14.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Set up your space - - Super, you’ve got a nice space! - -Follow our video to get ideas how to fully set up your Collection Point with all the additional tools, bags, furniture and posters needed to make your space functional and nice. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/step_15.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/step_15.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4ed240aa1..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/step_15.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Plan your way of transport - - If you decide to go and pick up the plastic at certain points, you will need to figure out how to transport it. We like using our bike trailor, but have a look and see what makes sense for your area and learn from the local infrastructure and ways of transporting everything around. See if there is any way to make the collection process more efficient or learn from the existent. - -Tip: The transportation is also a moment that people see you going around the streets, therefore it is a good opportunity to spread your message and make your collection point more known. A good way can be for example adding your logo to your transportation devices. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/step_16.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/step_16.md deleted file mode 100644 index ebccf867a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/step_16.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Plan to get clean plastic - - It’s the Collection Point's responsibility to collect clean and label-free plastic, this is crucial for further recycling. Cleaning all the plastic yourself will require more time, space and setup, so we highly recommend to set up your collection in a way that you don't have to take care of the cleaning. - -The best way to do this is by educating the people that bring you the plastic (we made some posters for you in the download kit). So they’re involved in the process and everyone is doing their part. The shredder workspace will pay less or might not even accept dirty plastic. - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/step_17.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/step_17.md deleted file mode 100644 index 09a447451..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/step_17.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Put your Pin on the Map - - If you haven’t already, it’s time to create your profile on the Precious Plastic Community Platform and put your pin on the map. - -This makes it easier for workspaces like the shredder guy to contact you to get plastic or even for a community builder to connect you to the local recycling community. Your Collection Point can also be an inspiration for others in your area to join the Precious Plastic community. - -👉 community.preciousplastic.com/sign-up diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/step_18.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/step_18.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4364aaff5..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/step_18.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Receive your plastic - - Once you’ve learned the basics and got a space you’re ready to open the doors of your Collection Point. Now you have to get people and businesses to give you their plastic. Now is the time for the plastic to come to you (or you're going to pick it up). - -You probably won't be too pleased with the quality of the plastic you collect at first. Don't be disappointed, it takes time! It is important to invest time and energy to explain out to those collecting for you how plastic should be (clean and unlabeled) and why you are asking it like this. By involving them in the process they are willing to make these extra efforts. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/step_19.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/step_19.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4527cccb0..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/step_19.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Spread the message - - Your mission is to get people involved by collecting their plastic. We made a bunch of posters and graphic material to help you reach out to more people and communicate what you do. This is just a starting point, feel free to create your own materials and change them according to your language or needs. - -You can spread the word by handing out flyers, giving presentations, or maybe even speaking on the radio. Wherever you are or whatever you are doing, make sure that you enjoy this moment and communicate a clear and precise message. :) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 63940e928..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Is this for you? - - Collection Points are great for someone who wants to do something about the plastic problem without having to build machines or make products. - -It helps if you have good social skills and enjoy talking to people, educating, informing, reminding, correcting and generally helping understand the Precious Plastic Collection system. - -You will also have to be very organized as running a Collection Point might quickly become a logistical challenge. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/step_20.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/step_20.md deleted file mode 100644 index ce1b497a0..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/step_20.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Stickers - - In the Download Kit you can find a sticker for businesses collaborating with you and giving you their plastic waste. You can put it on their window so their customers they can see they’re part of the movement and doing something about the plastic problem. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/step_21.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/step_21.md deleted file mode 100644 index ab26ae15a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/step_21.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Be patient - - Don’t be hasty. It might take some time before people get to know about your Collection Point and start bringing plastic. So be passionate and creative on ways to reach out to people. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/step_22.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/step_22.md deleted file mode 100644 index 263b7b29e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/step_22.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Connect to other workspaces - - Find shredder (or other) workspaces around you who can shred all the plastic you’ve collected. You can find them on the Precious Plastic Map or have a look on other platforms. Develop a nice relationship as you’ll want to work as partners in crime :) - -👉 community.preciousplastic.com/map \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/step_23.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/step_23.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9a91c3926..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/step_23.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### upload.preciousplastic.com - - It's nice to see your plastic collection growing! By weighing the plastic coming in, and writing it down, you will be able to have a concrete impact measure of how much plastic you are collecting and providing to other workspaces. - -Take a moment every now and then to upload your kilograms to our website - like that we can track how much impact our community makes and inspire the world with how much plastic waste we could save and recycle :) - -(Also, when you weigh it, you will understand how a few kilograms of plastic take up so much space. Incredible huh? Think globally about how much space you saved from our planet. Thank you for that!) - -👉 upload.preciousplastic.com \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/step_24.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/step_24.md deleted file mode 100644 index ceb5f5bfa..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/step_24.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### collect.preciousplastic.com - - To help you communicate with citizens and people around you how the Precious Plastic collection system works we made a little website to explain it, how to prepare plastic for recycling and how to find Collection Points near you. - -You can use this to get more and more people to bring you plastic. - -👉 collect.preciousplastic.com \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/step_25.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/step_25.md deleted file mode 100644 index 014d0259b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/step_25.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Create How-to's! - - Share to the world how you run your Collection Point so other people can learn from you and start using your solution to tackle the plastic problem. - -Make sure to document and create How-to's for your best processes and techniques. This can also help you create a name for yourself in the Precious Plastic community. - -👉 community.preciousplastic.com/how-to diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/step_26.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/step_26.md deleted file mode 100644 index b948ca16a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/step_26.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Learn and improve together - - Precious Plastic is nothing without the people. Working together and helping each other. Participate in the community, share back and make use of it, it can really pay off! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/step_27.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/step_27.md deleted file mode 100644 index 718d9a4b1..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/step_27.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Good things take time - - Starting off will take some time in the beginning. It’s normal. Be patient, work smart and reach out to your Precious Plastic community if you need help. Everything will take off. - -Every bit of plastic you collect is already saved from getting burnt! And keep in mind that because of your Collection Point people around you get more aware, and get the possibility to actually start working with recycled plastic. - -You’re changing the world by changing your local area :) diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/step_28.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/step_28.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9a66d79f8..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/step_28.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Download and start! - - Ready and excited to start? -You're a hero! - -If you haven't done yet, download your Collection Point package (yellow dowload button at the top section) with a collection of files that can help you start your recycling journey! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 135a9d04f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11 +0,0 @@ -### Learn about Precious Plastic - - As a start, it’s super important to really know and understand Precious Plastic. What drives the project, how it works, its philosophy and solutions. Especially as a Collection Point you will have to answer a lot of questions about the project! - -If you haven’t already, dig our website, community platform and Bazar to have a deep understanding of the project. -👉 preciousplastic.com -👉 community.preciousplastic.com -👉 bazar.preciousplastic.com - -Also, make sure to check the Universe chapter to fully understand how the Precious Plastic Universe works. -👉 community.preciousplastic.com/academy/universe \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 480021618..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Check out your area - - Get an overview of who and what is already existing in your area. Have a look on the Precious Plastic Map to see the activity around you. You can also search for more people on the Precious Plastic Bazar or search for #preciousplastic on social media. - -👉 community.preciousplastic.com/map \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index c6539d0e6..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Find your local community - - It is more practical and fun if you involve people from your local community, so go out there and connect! You can find community members on the Precious Plastic Map or meet them on local events and presentations about the environment and more. - -Also see if there is a Community Point in the area and get in touch - they are the glue of the Precious Plastic Universe and might be able to help you in multiple ways with their overview of the people and spaces in the local recycling network. - -👉 community.preciousplastic.com/map \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index 84fc72d8a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Check out the Discord - - Day to day discussions in the Precious Plastic Universe happen on Discord. - -Introduce yourself, say hi in your country channel and start to discover the different channels where people go deep into specific topics (building, collection, design etc..) - -Join the Discord: -👉 discordapp.com/invite/rnx7m4t \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index aaa7f5eb3..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Learn the basics of plastic - - Alright, so you are going to start a collection point! First, it's important to get some knowledge about the plastic topic. Head over to our Academy and dive into the plastic chapters to learn about the different types and properties etc. - -As a Collection Point, you want to introduce to people the “refuse, reduce, reuse and then recycle†way of living. By knowing a lot about the plastic topic yourself, you are able to answer their questions and spread the knowledge. - -👉 community.preciousplastic.com/academy/plastic/basics \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/step_8.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/step_8.md deleted file mode 100644 index 365f561f5..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/step_8.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,13 +0,0 @@ -### Learn about plastic collection - - Next, you can get familiar with how plastic collection works around the world and the Precious Plastic plan with our Collection video. - -👉 community.preciousplastic.com/academy/collect - -These are the main things to take from the video: -- Educate and enable citizens to be the change. -- Collect clean label-free plastic. -- Use the map to help people find Collection Points. -- All info and how it works are on the website -👉 collect.preciousplastic.com. - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/step_9.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/step_9.md deleted file mode 100644 index 71433c265..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-collection-point/step_9.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Observe plastic uses in your area - - Check around you. There is probably a lot of plastic being used and discarded. - -It’s your task to individuate sources of plastic that could be recycled in the Precious Plastic Universe. Depending on where you live could be your neighbours, colleagues, local restaurants, shops or dumpsites. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-community-point/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-community-point/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 190332f1e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-community-point/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Set up a Community Point - - -In this How-to we’re going to guide you through the steps to build set up you local Community Point. This is just as important as setting up the workspaces to transform plastic, as it is absolutely crucial to involve as many people in your area as possible. - -1-3: Intro -4-6: Learn -7-11: Setup -12-19: Run -20-22: Share \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-community-point/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-community-point/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7a2a1ad14..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-community-point/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Role in the universe - - Community Points are the glue of the Precious Plastic Universe. They help strengthening the collaboration between the existing recycling spaces as well as involving more and more people from the general public. - -Moreover they’re closely connected to Collection Points as they can serve as great help in finding new people to collect their plastic. - -Community Points should be run as a collective but if you’re alone in your area you can also start solo. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-community-point/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-community-point/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index ef090b406..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-community-point/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Outcomes - - The outcome of a Community Point is a active and strong local network of people and places collecting plastic, building machines, shredding and melting and inspire others to get involved. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-community-point/step_10.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-community-point/step_10.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7b1f5c780..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-community-point/step_10.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Start meeting each other - - Alright. Now it’s time to do something with those contacts. - -A good way to bring people together is to organise a meetup. This can be with existing recycling spaces to see how to grow together or with new people to start the local recycling network. - -Check out our tips for organising a meetup to get some ideas about how to do this. - -👉 community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/organise-a-precious-plastic-meetup \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-community-point/step_11.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-community-point/step_11.md deleted file mode 100644 index d6d573aa5..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-community-point/step_11.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Start collaborating - - Once you’ve made the connections and made a plan how to work together and who will do what, the group can start collaborating. - -The goal here is that people know where they can bring their plastic, where to shred plastic, where to melt plastic and where to finally sell and buy the final products. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-community-point/step_12.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-community-point/step_12.md deleted file mode 100644 index 838530896..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-community-point/step_12.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Be the local Bazar - - As the central point of your recycling community, you could order badges, flags, stamps, posters in bulk from the Bazar (as local as possible) and distribute them locally as needed. - -Saving lots of CO2, while making things more accessible for the local community. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-community-point/step_13.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-community-point/step_13.md deleted file mode 100644 index a5fd0247a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-community-point/step_13.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Keep connecting - - Eventually, your community will collect and transform plastic locally. Nice! - -Now it’s all about keeping people involved and motivated. Be available for questions, welcome newcomers and connect people to the relevant contacts and places. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-community-point/step_14.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-community-point/step_14.md deleted file mode 100644 index 439d4fc35..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-community-point/step_14.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Keep meeting - - It can also be good to meet up more often to update each other and give the opportunity for newcomers to join. - -Try you can find a place and time where you can meet more regularly. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-community-point/step_15.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-community-point/step_15.md deleted file mode 100644 index d58086807..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-community-point/step_15.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Keep growing - - The more people get to know about Precious Plastic and participate, the better it can run and succeed. - -So constantly keep your eyes open for new people and partners (and make sure they are in your contact list and on the map), so everyone in your community can find them. - -To help you in the process we’ve prepared some graphic materials you can use as a starting point. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-community-point/step_16.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-community-point/step_16.md deleted file mode 100644 index 813df3866..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-community-point/step_16.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Create How-to's! - - Share to the world how you run your Community Point so other people can learn from you and start using your solutions to grow their network. Make sure to document and share your best processes and techniques. - -Also stay up to date what's going on in your network and try to motivate and help your group to create How-to's of their successful techniques, hacks and products. - -👉 community.preciousplastic.com/how-to \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-community-point/step_17.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-community-point/step_17.md deleted file mode 100644 index fe9a5eece..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-community-point/step_17.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Keep inspiring - - Public speaking is a great and effective way to inspire people to participate. This can keep your group motivated and open the doors for new collaborations. - -In the Download package you can find a sample presentation which you can use and modify for your contexts to talk about Precious Plastic and your local community. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-community-point/step_18.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-community-point/step_18.md deleted file mode 100644 index ba366d74b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-community-point/step_18.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Inspire with samples - - You might also want to put together a little sample kit of product and material samples from the community, that can help you to explain and get people excited. - -In best case you can gather some good products and samples from your local workspaces - if they are not ready yet, you can use the Bazar to find products from the global community. - -👉 bazar.preciousplastic.com \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-community-point/step_19.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-community-point/step_19.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8ded0cb46..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-community-point/step_19.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Be part of the global community - - Participate and interact in this community to learn and grow together. - -Make sure people in your local network have their pins on the map so they can be found more easily. - -Maybe help them set up, sell on the Precious Plastic Bazar and make it more visible and accessible to buy their machines, products and services. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-community-point/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-community-point/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index f691af9ab..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-community-point/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Is this for you? - - For this role you will have to be very communicative and social. Ideally you like talking to people about the Precious Plastic online and in real life. So access to a phone and computer to use all the platforms properly is crucial. - -As a community builder it’s also important to be organised and good at keeping an overview of the area and your local network. Your goal is to strengthen the existing community and expand to new audiences. - -How you can go about sparking your community will vary depending on your context, but there are a number of tools you can use in order to get started. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-community-point/step_20.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-community-point/step_20.md deleted file mode 100644 index f04eeb5b7..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-community-point/step_20.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Learn with other communities - - It can also help if you connect with other Community Points to see how they are working and make sure to document and share what worked well in your community. - -This way you can create and participate in a powerful local and international network! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-community-point/step_21.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-community-point/step_21.md deleted file mode 100644 index 3a52f9614..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-community-point/step_21.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Good things take time :) - - Building a community isn't something which happens over night. It’s a big thing, but that shouldn’t discourage you. -You can start with your friend and friend’s friend. Step by step. - -Good things take time - and you have to start somewhere and plant the seed. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-community-point/step_22.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-community-point/step_22.md deleted file mode 100644 index b449bbe3e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-community-point/step_22.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Download and start! - - Excited? Ready to start? Let’s go! - -If you haven't done yet, download your Community Point package (yellow dowload button at the top section) with a collection of files that can help you start your recycling journey! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-community-point/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-community-point/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 22a1d987c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-community-point/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11 +0,0 @@ -### Learn about Precious Plastic - - As a start, it’s super important to really know and understand Precious Plastic. What drives the project, how it works, its philosophy and solutions. Especially as a Community Point you will have to talk and answer questions about the project a lot! - -If you haven’t already, dig our website, community platform and Bazar to have a deep understanding of the project. -👉 preciousplastic.com -👉 community.preciousplastic.com -👉 bazar.preciousplastic.com - -Also, make sure to check the Universe chapter to fully understand how the Precious Plastic Universe works. -👉 community.preciousplastic.com/academy/universe/universe \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-community-point/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-community-point/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 703982b3a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-community-point/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11 +0,0 @@ -### Check out your area - - Get an overview of who and what is already existing in your area. - -Have a look on the Precious Plastic Map to see the activity around you and if there are pins you can get in contact with. - -👉 community.preciousplastic.com/map - -Make sure not to jam the local network - if there is a Community Point in your area already, get in touch and have a look how you can work together, to keep ONE clear contact point for the surrounding people of your network :) - -Additionally, you can also search for more people on the Precious Plastic Bazar or search for #preciousplastic on social media. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-community-point/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-community-point/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7c6c22705..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-community-point/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Check out the Discord - - Precious Plastic also uses Discord to connect people around the world. We have channels for different countries, roles and topics. - -Make sure to see what’s already going on in your country and let people know you want to get involved. - -👉 discordapp.com/invite/rnx7m4t \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-community-point/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-community-point/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9227c0628..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-community-point/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Create a Community Point pin! - - If there is already a Community Point near you on the Precious Plastic Map, get in touch with the group and and see how you can join and help. Better to collaborate than to do double work. - -If there is no Community Point in your area yet, it’s time to create one. Create an account on the Community Platform and put a pin on the map. This way people can find and contact you. - -👉 community.preciousplastic.com/sign-up - -Have a look at these profile guidelines to get help with setting up your profile. -👉 drive.google.com/file/d/1fXTtBbzgCO0EL6G9__aixwqc-Euqgqnd/view \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-community-point/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-community-point/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index 78d74922a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-community-point/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Visit people and places - - It's nice and creates much stronger relationships to get to know people in real life. Makes it more human and fun. - -Do a little search of your area and get the chance to get in touch and visit people working on Precious Plastic around you (Collection Points, Machine Shops, Shredder Workspaces etc..). - -This can give you a good understanding of the needs, problems and circumstances of the different recycling spaces in your area. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-community-point/step_8.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-community-point/step_8.md deleted file mode 100644 index b37a68b48..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-community-point/step_8.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### IMPORTANT: Your contact list! - - You can use our contact list tool as a starting point to gather all your contacts and keep an overview. Keeping this document organised and updated will be super helpful to make the connections between people in your community, so make sure to take care of it! - -If you have another good way of gathering and organising the contacts and details, we're happy to learn about it :) - -👉 https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1DvaMadd4qFWbwJWfUC8obvUz4TTizmNhx4zimDnTlI4/edit?usp=sharing \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-community-point/step_9.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-community-point/step_9.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7bd318366..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-community-point/step_9.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Start chatting - - It’s good practice to setup other local communication channels to fit your needs (Telegram, Whatsapp, etc..) Use this tool to keep ongoing communication that is relevant to your area. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-machine-shop/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-machine-shop/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 31e7800cc..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-machine-shop/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Set up a Machine Shop - - -In this How-to we’re going to guide you through all the steps to set up a Machine Shop. Learn about machines, expertise, how to find a space, get your equipment, find customers and connect to the Precious Plastic Universe. - -Step 1-3: Intro -Step 4-9: Learn -Step 10-16: Set up -Step 17-22: Run -Step 23-25: Share \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-machine-shop/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-machine-shop/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 858d6fa8a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-machine-shop/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Role in the Precious Plastic Universe - - First of all, make sure you had a look at the showcase page of this Starterkit! -preciousplastic.com/starterkits/showcase/machine-shop - -Now about your Role: - -Machine Shops provide machines, parts and moulds to individuals and recycling workspaces within the Precious Plastic Universe. - -Machine Shops should also reach out to Community Points to connect with the local Precious Plastic community and maybe get help finding people who need machines and parts. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-machine-shop/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-machine-shop/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index e6d176657..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-machine-shop/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Outcomes - - As Machine Shop your outcomes are machines or machine parts, components and, as a plus, you can offer maintenance as well. - -Your hardware and services can be purchased by different workspaces and individuals from the recycling community on the Bazar. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-machine-shop/step_10.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-machine-shop/step_10.md deleted file mode 100644 index 29b027581..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-machine-shop/step_10.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Workspace Calculator - - Now you have your project nicely planned out and it’s starting to take shape. - -It is important at this stage to make a serious estimation of how much it will cost you to set up and run your workspace. Otherwise, you might run out of money halfway. The Workspace Calculator is a spreadsheet that helps you do just that. - -Find the Workspace Calculator in the Download Kit or learn more in the Academy: -👉 community.preciousplastic.com/academy/business/workspacecalculator diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-machine-shop/step_11.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-machine-shop/step_11.md deleted file mode 100644 index b9a7ea10b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-machine-shop/step_11.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Business Plan Template - - To help you pitch your idea to potential partners, financial institutions or investors we made a Business Plan Template (and a specific example for the Machine Shop) for you to use. - -This template helps you to talk the business language and should help you access the necessary money to begin. - -For more explanation check out the video in the Academy: -👉 community.preciousplastic.com/academy/business/businessplan diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-machine-shop/step_12.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-machine-shop/step_12.md deleted file mode 100644 index c9e51d57b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-machine-shop/step_12.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Assemble a team - - We’ve heard it over and over. People are what makes a project succeed or fail. Choose carefully and create a team of passionate people that want to change the world and are not afraid of sleepless nights. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-machine-shop/step_13.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-machine-shop/step_13.md deleted file mode 100644 index f85668ab7..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-machine-shop/step_13.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Get the machines - - Cool, now you have a space and team. - -It’s time to procure your equipment, in the tools list from the Download Kit, we provide the list of basics tools and machines you will need for starting a Machine Shop. - -We recommend investing in good quality machines. If you want to reduce your investment, keep an eye on second-hand markets, you might find proper machinery for decent prices. They will generally keep their value, last longer, and will be easier to repair due to parts availability, so the investment will eventually pay off. - - If you want to run a specialised Machine Shop or expand its capabilities, you might need to upgrade it depending on your needs. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-machine-shop/step_14.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-machine-shop/step_14.md deleted file mode 100644 index ee853f6c4..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-machine-shop/step_14.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Build the workspace - - As you will probably have different operations running at the same time, we recommend your workspace to be organised and split your space into at least two areas: - -A “dusty†area where you will cut, drill grind, weld etc. dedicated to heavy messy jobs. Ventilation is a must here. - -And a "clean" area where you carry out assembling and electricity cabling. Here you can also dedicate space to neatly store parts and components. - -Ideally, you also have a "ventilation" area for paint jobs (sand blasting and painting). \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-machine-shop/step_15.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-machine-shop/step_15.md deleted file mode 100644 index be460a6d8..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-machine-shop/step_15.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Build partnerships - - The Machine Shop needs to procure many machined parts, laser-cut pieces and components. - -For this, the project manager needs to set up connections with the local industrial network to find partners that can provide reliable orders at acceptable prices. Ordering regularly or in bulk will help to maintain the prices low. - -If parts are not available locally at reasonable prices, make sure to check the Precious Plastic Bazar: Some other Machine Shop might specialise into specific components and sell them, saving you precious time and money. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-machine-shop/step_16.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-machine-shop/step_16.md deleted file mode 100644 index c27bfbf91..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-machine-shop/step_16.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Buy in bulk - - It’s often good to buy materials and parts in bulk as it can help you save money, packaging and shipping. However, this can be a little difficult in the beginning as it requires some initial capital to invest. - -We don’t recommend to accept orders/payments and then buy in bulk, this could result in delayed shipping and angry customers. If you do want to take this approach make sure to mention it before you sell, to prepare everyone for longer waiting times and keep your customers happy :) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-machine-shop/step_17.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-machine-shop/step_17.md deleted file mode 100644 index 28fcb45c9..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-machine-shop/step_17.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Build in series - - Once you feel confident in bulding the machines it is good practice to build them in series. This will increase efficiency and speed up your building time. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-machine-shop/step_18.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-machine-shop/step_18.md deleted file mode 100644 index c344fffe7..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-machine-shop/step_18.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Other specialists - - On top of the Machine Shop’s expertise, there are a number of other technical expertise that you can find in your local industrial network, which you might need at some point. - -Try to map out machining specialists, lasercut and waterjet services, mould makers, CNC gurus and shops selling specific components. These are very specialised sectors that can offer you high precision, better prices and less hassle. - -Also make sure to note and keep together all the contacts you find. Makes it easier for you to get back to them and also easier to share with your team and your local recycling network. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-machine-shop/step_19.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-machine-shop/step_19.md deleted file mode 100644 index 0e4a9540f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-machine-shop/step_19.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Sell - - You can now make great machines in series. At this point, it is crucial to find people and organisations that will buy your recycling machines. - -Put them on the Precious Plastic Bazar to access an audience that is already interested in recycled products. You could alternatively also try to sell the machines locally but this might be a little harder. - -*try to avoid shipping machines across the planet as this increases CO2 pollution - -👉 bazar.preciousplastic.com diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-machine-shop/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-machine-shop/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index cdcbdfce8..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-machine-shop/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Is this for you? - - Setting up a Machine Shop is a very technical role. You need to know how to build, understand your expertise and limits, and surround yourself with trusted partners and suppliers. - -On top of providing machines and parts to workspaces and maintain them, Machine Shops also have to establish relationships with the industrial network of their area to procure material and supplies of specific components. - -And last but not least, a certain degree of organisation is required as you will probably have to work as a team in a very connected environment. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-machine-shop/step_20.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-machine-shop/step_20.md deleted file mode 100644 index 20b393f9b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-machine-shop/step_20.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Create your profile - - If you haven’t already, it’s time to create your profile on the Precious Plastic Community Platform to connect with people. Follow the link below and sign up with your email, pick your role, put your pin on the map and upload nice pics to show the world what you’re doing. - -👉 community.preciousplastic.com/sign-up \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-machine-shop/step_21.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-machine-shop/step_21.md deleted file mode 100644 index 6817c3e0c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-machine-shop/step_21.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Create How-tos! - - Share to the world how you run your Machine Shop so other people can learn from you and start using your solution to build machines to tackle the plastic problem. - -Make sure to only create How-tos for your best processes and techniques, no tryouts or one-offs. This can also help you create a name for yourself in the Precious Plastic community. - -👉 community.preciousplastic.com/how-to \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-machine-shop/step_22.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-machine-shop/step_22.md deleted file mode 100644 index b948ca16a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-machine-shop/step_22.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Learn and improve together - - Precious Plastic is nothing without the people. Working together and helping each other. Participate in the community, share back and make use of it, it can really pay off! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-machine-shop/step_23.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-machine-shop/step_23.md deleted file mode 100644 index cddae54da..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-machine-shop/step_23.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Good things take time - - Starting off will take some time in the beginning. It’s normal. Be patient, work smart and reach out to your Precious Plastic community if you need help. Everything will take off. - -You’re changing the world. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-machine-shop/step_24.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-machine-shop/step_24.md deleted file mode 100644 index c3a00e699..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-machine-shop/step_24.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Download and start! - - Ready and excited to start? -You're a hero! - -If you haven't done it yet, click on the yellow download button (in the top section of this page) to get the package with all the files to build the machines and some extras that wil help you get started as a Machine Shop. - -Download and start your recycling journey! :) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-machine-shop/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-machine-shop/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9195f7e16..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-machine-shop/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11 +0,0 @@ -### Learn about Precious Plastic - - As a start, it’s super important to really know and understand Precious Plastic. What drives the project, how it works, its philosophy and solutions. - -If you haven’t already, dig our website, community platform and Bazar to have a deep understanding of the project. -👉 preciousplastic.com -👉 community.preciousplastic.com -👉 bazar.preciousplastic.com - -Also, make sure to check the Universe chapter to fully understand how the Precious Plastic Universe works. -👉 community.preciousplastic.com/academy/universe \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-machine-shop/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-machine-shop/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index f2b2f5b21..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-machine-shop/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Check out your area - - Get an overview of who and what is already existing in your area. Have a look on the Precious Plastic Map to see the activity around you. You can also search for more people on the Precious Plastic Bazar or search for #preciousplastic on social media. - -Make sure not to jam the local network - if there are already many Machine Shops nearby, you may want to collaborate and specialise in one area (assembling, welding, maintenance etc..). - -👉 community.preciousplastic.com/map \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-machine-shop/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-machine-shop/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 11713c5de..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-machine-shop/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Find a Community Point near you - - Community Points are the glue of the Precious Plastic Universe. - -They know the ins and outs of your local network. They can help you in multiple ways but they generally have a very in-depth overview of local Precious Plastic spaces, people, useful shops, resources and can help you with planning out your project. Have a look on the Map if there is one near you. - -👉 community.preciousplastic.com/map \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-machine-shop/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-machine-shop/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index 19e33f9ba..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-machine-shop/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Get on Discord - - Day to day discussions in the Precious Plastic Universe happen on Discord. - -Introduce yourself, say hi in your country channel and start to discover the different channels where people go deep into specific topics (building, collection, design etc..) - -Join the Discord: -👉 discordapp.com/invite/rnx7m4t \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-machine-shop/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-machine-shop/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index 5d49d0c18..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-machine-shop/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Different expertises - - To create a Machine Shop you will need a combination of multiple expertises and, above all, a strong project manager in charge of timely sourcing components, solid planning, coordinate the team, sell machines and close contracts. - -Depending on your project you will manage a team of assemblers, welders, electricians, mould makers and machining experts. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-machine-shop/step_8.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-machine-shop/step_8.md deleted file mode 100644 index c96073822..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-machine-shop/step_8.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,13 +0,0 @@ -### Machine Shop services - - As part of a Machine Shop you can offer different services to your customers: - -Assembling: Putting together machines using high precision measurement tools, a small lathe or milling machine for adjustments. - -Welding: Making the machines’ frames. A semi-professional MIG/MAG and a dedicated area will do the job. - -Electrician: Cabling and installing the electric box. To adapt the machine to specific configurations, troubleshooting and to ensure full safety a professional level is required. - -Mould Making: Creating precise aluminium moulds with a CNC machine. - -Machining: Offering professional-level lathe and milling for manufacturing shredder axis and the main extrusion parts. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-machine-shop/step_9.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-machine-shop/step_9.md deleted file mode 100644 index 66494672b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-machine-shop/step_9.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Action Plan - - Before jumping into making machines or finding a space it is smart to sit down and properly plan your project and shape your vision. - -To help you plan we’ve made a tool called the Action Plan that helps you to craft your mission, understand your customers, revenue streams, costs and much more. With this tool, you should get a step closer to create a successful project. - -Find the Action Plan in the Download Kit or learn more in the Academy -👉 community.preciousplastic.com/academy/business/actionplan \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-mix-workspace/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-mix-workspace/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8b7f3ab1f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-mix-workspace/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Set up a Mix Workspace - - -In this How-to we’re going to guide you through all the steps to setup a Mix Workspace. Learn about plastic, how to find a space, get the machines and connect to the Precious Plastic Universe. - -Step 1-3: Intro -Step 4-9: Learn -Step 10-16: Set up -Step 17-22: Run -Step 23-25: Share \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-mix-workspace/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-mix-workspace/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 191898cfb..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-mix-workspace/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Role in the Precious Plastic Universe - - First of all, make sure you had a look at the showcase page of this Starterkit! -👉 preciousplastic.com/starterkits/showcase/mix - -Mix Workspaces are a great place to start making the first steps into local plastic recycling. - -As they have all several machines and take care of several steps of the recycling process, they are quite independent from other workspaces, but ofcourse can still collaborate with Collection Points or Shredder Workspaces to source their material. - -As everyone in the network, they should be in touch with the Community Points to connect with the local Precious Plastic community. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-mix-workspace/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-mix-workspace/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index f410d9590..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-mix-workspace/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Outcomes - - The Mix Workspace can have multiple outcomes. The knowledge and education generated for its participants and the broader society are huge. Amongst other 5 things Mix Workspaces can output small productions, workshops or presentations. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-mix-workspace/step_10.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-mix-workspace/step_10.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2449c30e6..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-mix-workspace/step_10.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,14 +0,0 @@ -### Get your machines - - Cool, now that you have a space it’s time to get hold of your machines of choice. There is no right or wrong way to go here. tWe always recommend to start small to keep the investment lower, but you can also go full in from the beginning. - -There are three ways you can get the machines: - -1 Build them yourself following our tutorials. -👉 community.preciousplastic.com/academy/build - -2 Buy them on the Bazar. -👉 bazar.preciousplastic.com - -3 Find a Machine Shop near you on the map that can build it for you. -👉 community.preciousplastic.com/mapBuilt them yourself following our tutorials \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-mix-workspace/step_11.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-mix-workspace/step_11.md deleted file mode 100644 index b6132f3c6..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-mix-workspace/step_11.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Build your workspace - - Super, you’ve got your machines! But machines alone are not enough. - -Follow our tutorials on how to fully setup your Mix Workspace with all the additional tools, furniture and posters needed to make your space ready. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-mix-workspace/step_12.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-mix-workspace/step_12.md deleted file mode 100644 index 18bb888a4..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-mix-workspace/step_12.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Safety - - Before we start always make sure to stay safe! - -Of course, the machines get hot. And can cause a hazard in different ways, find out tips on how to stay safe here. It is also crucial to check out our safety videos on how to melt plastic safely here. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-mix-workspace/step_13.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-mix-workspace/step_13.md deleted file mode 100644 index 40b20eb40..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-mix-workspace/step_13.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Get some plastic waste - - Now you need to get some plastic waste to be recycled. - -You can make contact with a Collection Point near you or find clever ways to get people to bring you plastic. The volumes you will need are not huge so a small collection setup in your workspace can work as well. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-mix-workspace/step_14.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-mix-workspace/step_14.md deleted file mode 100644 index 3743c2a45..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-mix-workspace/step_14.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Shred your plastic - - Using your Shredder, shred the collected plastic waste into small shreds ready to be used in the other machines. - -Make sure to shred plastic by type and, as a plus, by colour, so you can creat beautiful patterns later on. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-mix-workspace/step_15.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-mix-workspace/step_15.md deleted file mode 100644 index 203de871f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-mix-workspace/step_15.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Get moulds - - To make products you need moulds. Moulds can be done in multiple ways. - -You can have a look at our Create section in the Academy. -👉 community.preciousplastic.com/academy/create - -And check out our How-to's to get inspired and learn about different moulds. -👉 community.preciousplastic.com/howto \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-mix-workspace/step_16.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-mix-workspace/step_16.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2183b56ad..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-mix-workspace/step_16.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Make some products! - - Now that you have all the things in place it’s time to start making some products with the different machines. - -Browse the How-to and Create chapter in the Academy to learn how to make different products and adopt the best practices. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-mix-workspace/step_17.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-mix-workspace/step_17.md deleted file mode 100644 index 663c5793a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-mix-workspace/step_17.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Experiment and have fun - - Make sure to play around and have some fun trying out new things, moulds, patterns and designs. Learning is about playing and experimenting. - -If you discover something cool, share it back to the community, so everyone can learn together :) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-mix-workspace/step_18.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-mix-workspace/step_18.md deleted file mode 100644 index 495a7ec21..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-mix-workspace/step_18.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Run workshops - - As you become more comfortable and knowledgeable working with plastic and the machines you could start to give educational workshops in your community. - -You can run workshops at your workspace, events, conferences and conventions showing how Precious Plastic recycling works. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-mix-workspace/step_19.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-mix-workspace/step_19.md deleted file mode 100644 index a909bf376..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-mix-workspace/step_19.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Maintenance - - As you run your Mix Workspace it is crucial that you maintain the different machines in order to prevent failures. - -You can ask the local Machine Shop for help. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-mix-workspace/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-mix-workspace/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 45b174e72..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-mix-workspace/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Is this for you? - - If you want to start a Mix Workspace the most important aspect is to be super keen on learning this new craft, local plastic recycling. - -A technical background or interest could be a plus but is not mandatory as you could also get the machines built for you. As a plus, some product design knowledge could help you when you start making products. - -Working on a Mix Workspace you could be dealing with people on a daily basis for supplies, workshops, visits and more. It’s good to be a little sociable and enjoy explaining the project to others. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-mix-workspace/step_20.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-mix-workspace/step_20.md deleted file mode 100644 index b91b7d7c3..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-mix-workspace/step_20.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Create your profile - - If you haven’t already, it’s time to create your profile on the Precious Plastic Community Platform to connect with people. - -Follow the link below and sign up with your email, pick your role, put your pin on the map and upload nice pics to show the world what you’re doing. - -👉 community.preciousplastic.com/sign-up \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-mix-workspace/step_21.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-mix-workspace/step_21.md deleted file mode 100644 index fce4ecc9c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-mix-workspace/step_21.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Create How-to's! - - Share to the world how you run your Mix Workspace so other people can learn from you and start using your solution to build machines to tackle the plastic problem. - -Make sure to only create How-tos for your best processes and techniques, not try outs or one offs. This can also help you create a name for yourself in the Precious Plastic community. - -👉 community.preciousplastic.com/how-to \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-mix-workspace/step_22.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-mix-workspace/step_22.md deleted file mode 100644 index b948ca16a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-mix-workspace/step_22.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Learn and improve together - - Precious Plastic is nothing without the people. Working together and helping each other. Participate in the community, share back and make use of it, it can really pay off! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-mix-workspace/step_23.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-mix-workspace/step_23.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4628bef26..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-mix-workspace/step_23.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Good things take time - - Starting off will take some time in the beginning. It’s normal. Be patience, work smart and reach out to your Precious Plastic community if you need help. Everything will take off. - -You’re changing the world. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-mix-workspace/step_24.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-mix-workspace/step_24.md deleted file mode 100644 index 6ade8b394..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-mix-workspace/step_24.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Download and start! - - Ready and excited to start? -You're a hero! - -If you haven't done it yet, click on the yellow download button (in the top section of this page) to get the package with all the files you need to set up your Mix Workspace. - -Download and start your recycling journey! :) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-mix-workspace/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-mix-workspace/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8146a5fb0..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-mix-workspace/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11 +0,0 @@ -### Learn about Precious Plastic - - As a start, it’s super important to really know and understand Precious Plastic. What drives the project, how it works, its philosophy and solutions. - -If you haven’t already, dig our website, community platform and Bazar to have a deep understanding of the project. -👉 preciousplastic.com -👉 community.preciousplastic.com -👉 bazar.preciousplastic.com - -Also, make sure to check the Universe chapter to fully understand how the Precious Plastic Universe works. -👉 community.preciousplastic.com/academy/universe/universe \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-mix-workspace/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-mix-workspace/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 0515405bb..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-mix-workspace/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Check out your area - - Get an overview of who and what is already existing in your area. - -Have a look on the Precious Plastic Map to see the activity around you. You can also search for more people on the Precious Plastic Bazar or search for #preciousplastic on social media. - -Make sure not to jam the local network, if there are already five Mix Workspaces around you, have a chat about a collaboration with them first, or maybe consider starting another type of space. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-mix-workspace/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-mix-workspace/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 02de7a6fc..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-mix-workspace/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Find a Community Point near you - - Community Points are the glue of the Precious Plastic Universe. They know the ins and outs of your local network. - -They can help you in multiple ways but they generally have a very in-depth overview of local Precious Plastic spaces, people, useful shops, resources and can help you with planning out your project. You can find them on the map here. - -👉 community.preciousplastic.com/map \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-mix-workspace/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-mix-workspace/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index 19e33f9ba..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-mix-workspace/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Get on Discord - - Day to day discussions in the Precious Plastic Universe happen on Discord. - -Introduce yourself, say hi in your country channel and start to discover the different channels where people go deep into specific topics (building, collection, design etc..) - -Join the Discord: -👉 discordapp.com/invite/rnx7m4t \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-mix-workspace/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-mix-workspace/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7473c7db5..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-mix-workspace/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### The basics of plastic - - Before you start it is crucial to get a solid understanding of plastic. How it works, the different types, melting temperatures and so on. Head over to our Academy and dive into the plastic chapters to learn about the different types and properties etc. - -There is also more about the machines, products and techniques, and more. Make sure to absorb as much knowledge from there as possible. - -👉 community.preciousplastic.com/academy/plastic/basics \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-mix-workspace/step_8.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-mix-workspace/step_8.md deleted file mode 100644 index a5b260c6a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-mix-workspace/step_8.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Assemble a team - - It’s good to work and learn in a team. - -Put together a passionate team of people able to collaborate and work together to learn different ways to tackle the plastic problem. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-mix-workspace/step_9.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-mix-workspace/step_9.md deleted file mode 100644 index b21fa93c9..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-mix-workspace/step_9.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Find a space - - To help you find and set up the space for your workspace, you can use the floorplan in the Download Kit. It includes all the minimum requirements and a little template to place your machines and tools in the workspace. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-sheetpress-workspace/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-sheetpress-workspace/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 34375813a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-sheetpress-workspace/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Set up a Sheetpress Workspace - - -In this How-to we’re going to guide you through all the steps to set up a Sheetpress Workspace. Learn about plastic, how to find a space, get the Sheetpress, find customers and connect to the Precious Plastic Universe. - -Step 1-3: Intro -Step 4-9: Learn -Step 10-18: Set up -Step 19-23: Run -Step 24-25: Share \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-sheetpress-workspace/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-sheetpress-workspace/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 82c003cc4..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-sheetpress-workspace/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Role - - First of all, make sure you had a look at the showcase page of this Starterkit! -👉 preciousplastic.com/starterkits/showcase/sheetpress - -Now about your Role: - -Sheetpress Workspaces buy recycled shredded plastic from Shredder Workspaces and transform it into big recycled sheets. These beautiful sheets are then sold to design studios or directly to customers. - -Sheetpress Workspaces should also be in touch with a Community Point to connect, interact and get support from the local Precious Plastic community. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-sheetpress-workspace/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-sheetpress-workspace/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8302c176c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-sheetpress-workspace/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Outcomes - - The outcome of a Sheetpress Workspace is recycled plastic sheets. - -These sheets can be of different sizes up to 1x1 m and with varying thicknesses from 5mm up to 30mm (more to be explored!). - -Make sure to play around with various patterns and colours to create stunning recycled sheets. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-sheetpress-workspace/step_10.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-sheetpress-workspace/step_10.md deleted file mode 100644 index c21d8cc10..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-sheetpress-workspace/step_10.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Workspace Calculator - - Now you have your project nicely planned out and it’s starting to take shape in your mind. - -It is important at this stage to make a serious estimation of how much it will cost you to set up and run your workspace. Otherwise, you might run out of money halfway. The Workspace Calculator is a spreadsheet that helps you do just that. - -You can find the Workspace Calculator in the Download Kit or learn more in the Academy. -👉 https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/business/workspacecalculator \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-sheetpress-workspace/step_11.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-sheetpress-workspace/step_11.md deleted file mode 100644 index bf1e47e5e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-sheetpress-workspace/step_11.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Business Plan Template - - To help you pitch your idea to potential partners, financial institutions or investors we made a Business Plan Template (and a specific example for the Sheetpress Workspace) for you to use. - -This template helps you to talk the business language and should help you access the necessary money to begin. - -For more explanation check out the video in the Academy. -👉 community.preciousplastic.com/academy/business/businessplan \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-sheetpress-workspace/step_12.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-sheetpress-workspace/step_12.md deleted file mode 100644 index 0bd947cb4..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-sheetpress-workspace/step_12.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Tool list - - Alongside your Sheetpress system, you will need a number of other tools and machines to help you with the operations of the Sheetpress Workspace. - -In the Download Kit, you will find a tool list with all the necessary tools to run your workspace. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-sheetpress-workspace/step_13.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-sheetpress-workspace/step_13.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7930505d3..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-sheetpress-workspace/step_13.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Find the space - - To help you find and set up the space for your workspace, you can use the floorplan in the Download Kit. It includes all the minimum requirements and a little template to place your machines and tools in the workspace. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-sheetpress-workspace/step_14.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-sheetpress-workspace/step_14.md deleted file mode 100644 index 093ac2046..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-sheetpress-workspace/step_14.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,12 +0,0 @@ -### Get your Sheetpress - - Cool, now you have a space it’s time to get hold of your Sheetpress system. There are three ways to do that: - -1 Build it yourself following our tutorials -👉 community.preciousplastic.com/academy/build/sheetpressbuild - -2 Buy it on the Bazar. -👉 bazar.preciousplastic.com - -3 Find a Machine Shop near you on the map that can build it for you. -👉 community.preciousplastic.com/map \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-sheetpress-workspace/step_15.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-sheetpress-workspace/step_15.md deleted file mode 100644 index 759a89893..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-sheetpress-workspace/step_15.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Build your workspace - - Super, you’ve got your Sheet press system! - -You can watch our video on how to fully set up your Sheetpress Workspace with all the additional tools, furniture and posters needed to make your space ready. - -👉 community.preciousplastic.com/academy/spaces/sheetpress \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-sheetpress-workspace/step_16.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-sheetpress-workspace/step_16.md deleted file mode 100644 index 3359a4faa..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-sheetpress-workspace/step_16.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Safety - - Always stay safe. - -Of course, Sheetpress machines get hot. And can cause a hazard in different ways. - -So before starting to melt, please check out our safety video to learn about dangers and how to stay safe when working with plastic. -👉 community.preciousplastic.com/academy/plastic/safety diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-sheetpress-workspace/step_17.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-sheetpress-workspace/step_17.md deleted file mode 100644 index d308a10bc..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-sheetpress-workspace/step_17.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Buy shredded plastic - - Now the only thing missing is your raw material. - -Try to get your shredded plastic as local as possible. In best case you can buy it from a Shredder Workspace in your local network. - -Make sure to specify your preferred shreds size (small, medium or large) and to have a variety of colours and types, so you can be more creative. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-sheetpress-workspace/step_18.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-sheetpress-workspace/step_18.md deleted file mode 100644 index 443f0eb84..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-sheetpress-workspace/step_18.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Time to make sheets! - - Ok, having all the things in place it’s time to start baking sheets. Yeeah! - -Watch this chapter to learn how to make a sheet and adopt the best practices. -👉 community.preciousplastic.com/academy/build/sheetpressrun diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-sheetpress-workspace/step_19.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-sheetpress-workspace/step_19.md deleted file mode 100644 index 18cce1940..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-sheetpress-workspace/step_19.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Make a variety - - Once you get a grasp on the process make sure to make a nice variety of colours, sizes and thicknesses to attract different customers. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-sheetpress-workspace/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-sheetpress-workspace/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index e40b5946f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-sheetpress-workspace/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Is this for you? - - For the Sheetpress Workspace you will have to be quite technical as you have to understand how the Sheetpress machine works, ideally, know how to maintain it and, as a plus, know how to fix it when it needs a bit of extra love. - -Attention to details and some creativity is also a nice plus to come up with unique sheets of stunning beauty. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-sheetpress-workspace/step_20.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-sheetpress-workspace/step_20.md deleted file mode 100644 index f2a4287d9..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-sheetpress-workspace/step_20.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Maintenance - - As you run your Sheetpress Workspace it is crucial that you maintain the Sheetpress machine in order to keep the quality of your products high and prevent failures. - -In case you haven't seen it yet, here are some guidelines on how to maintain your system: -👉 community.preciousplastic.com/academy/build/sheetpressrun \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-sheetpress-workspace/step_21.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-sheetpress-workspace/step_21.md deleted file mode 100644 index a452c8daf..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-sheetpress-workspace/step_21.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Sell - - You can now make superb sheets. Many every day. Now is crucial to find people and organisations that want to buy your recycled sheets. - -Put them on the Precious Plastic Bazar to access an audience that is already interested in recycled products. -And then you can get creative on how to sell your sheets locally. Get in touch with shops, design studios, online stores and more. - -👉 bazar.preciousplastic.com \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-sheetpress-workspace/step_22.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-sheetpress-workspace/step_22.md deleted file mode 100644 index fa0b6cf8b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-sheetpress-workspace/step_22.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Create your profile - - If you haven’t already, it’s time to create your profile on the Precious Plastic Community Platform to connect with people. - -Follow the link below and sign up with your email, pick your role, put your pin on the map and upload a nice image to show the world what you’re doing. -👉 community.preciousplastic.com/sign-up \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-sheetpress-workspace/step_23.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-sheetpress-workspace/step_23.md deleted file mode 100644 index b3de9eb80..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-sheetpress-workspace/step_23.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Create How-to's! - - Share with the worldwide community how you run your Sheetpress Workspace so other people can learn from you and start using your solution to tackle the plastic problem. - -Make sure you only create How-to's for your best processes and techniques, no tryouts or oneoffs. This can also help you create a good name for yourself in the Precious Plastic community. - -👉 community.preciousplastic.com/how-to \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-sheetpress-workspace/step_24.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-sheetpress-workspace/step_24.md deleted file mode 100644 index b2344b2f2..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-sheetpress-workspace/step_24.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Good things take time - - Starting off will take some time in the beginning. It’s normal. Be patient, work smart and reach out to your Precious Plastic community if you need help. The efforts will pay off eventually :) - -You’re changing the world. Thank you! diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-sheetpress-workspace/step_25.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-sheetpress-workspace/step_25.md deleted file mode 100644 index fdeefe40e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-sheetpress-workspace/step_25.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Download and start! - - Ready and excited to start? -You're a hero! - -If you haven't done it yet, click on the yellow download button (in the top section of this page) to get the package with all the files you need to set up your Sheetpress Workspace. - -Download and start your recycling journey! :) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-sheetpress-workspace/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-sheetpress-workspace/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9195f7e16..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-sheetpress-workspace/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11 +0,0 @@ -### Learn about Precious Plastic - - As a start, it’s super important to really know and understand Precious Plastic. What drives the project, how it works, its philosophy and solutions. - -If you haven’t already, dig our website, community platform and Bazar to have a deep understanding of the project. -👉 preciousplastic.com -👉 community.preciousplastic.com -👉 bazar.preciousplastic.com - -Also, make sure to check the Universe chapter to fully understand how the Precious Plastic Universe works. -👉 community.preciousplastic.com/academy/universe \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-sheetpress-workspace/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-sheetpress-workspace/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index ef82fb9dd..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-sheetpress-workspace/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Check out your area - - Get an overview of who and what is already existing in your area. - -Have a look on the Precious Plastic Map to see the activity around you. You can also search for more people on the Precious Plastic Bazar or search for #preciousplastic on social media. - -Make sure not to jam the local network, if there are already five Sheetpress Workspaces around, have a chat about collaboration with them first, or maybe consider starting another type of space. - -👉 community.preciousplastic.com/map \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-sheetpress-workspace/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-sheetpress-workspace/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2a5c9253d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-sheetpress-workspace/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Find a Community Point near you - - Community Points are the glue of the Precious Plastic Universe. They know the ins and outs of your local network. They can help you in multiple ways but they generally have a very in-depth overview of local Precious Plastic spaces, people, useful shops, resources and can help you with planning out your project. You can find them on the map here. - -👉 community.preciousplastic.com/map \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-sheetpress-workspace/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-sheetpress-workspace/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2aeea76e8..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-sheetpress-workspace/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Find your plastic supply - - You can use the Precious Plastic Map and the Bazar to find Shredder workspaces around you that can provide you with the raw material: shredded plastic waste. - -If you have a local Community Point, they might be able to give you some advices for this as well. - -👉 community.preciousplastic.com/map -👉 bazar.preciousplastic.com diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-sheetpress-workspace/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-sheetpress-workspace/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index f88cbc6e0..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-sheetpress-workspace/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Get on Discord - - Day to day discussions in the Precious Plastic Universe happen on Discord. - -Introduce yourself, say hi in your country channel and start to discover the different channels where people go deep into specific topics (building, collection, design etc..) - -Join the Discord: -👉 discordapp.com/invite/rnx7m4t diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-sheetpress-workspace/step_8.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-sheetpress-workspace/step_8.md deleted file mode 100644 index 15d9cdb65..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-sheetpress-workspace/step_8.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### The basics of plastic - - Before you start it is crucial to get a solid understanding of plastic. How it works, the different types, melting temperatures and so on. - -Head over to our Academy and dive into the plastic chapters to learn about the different types and properties and more. - -👉 community.preciousplastic.com/academy/plastic/basics \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-sheetpress-workspace/step_9.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-sheetpress-workspace/step_9.md deleted file mode 100644 index e1715c4bb..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-sheetpress-workspace/step_9.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Fill in the Action Plan - - Before jumping into making machines or finding a space it is smart to sit down and properly plan your project and shape your vision. - -To help you plan we’ve made a graphic tool called the Action Plan that helps you to craft your mission, understand your customers, revenue streams, costs and much more. With this tool, you should get a step closer to create a successful project. - -You can find the Action Plan in the Download Kit or learn more in the Academy. -👉 community.preciousplastic.com/academy/business/actionplan diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-shredder-workspace/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-shredder-workspace/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7dc8d1770..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-shredder-workspace/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Set up a Shredder Workspace - - -In this How-to we’re going to guide you through all the steps to set up a Shredder Workspace. Learn about plastic, how to find a space, get the shredder, find customers and connect to the Precious Plastic Universe. - -Step 1-3: Intro -Step 4-8: Learn -Step 9-11: Set up -Step 12-17: Run -Step 18-20: Share \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-shredder-workspace/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-shredder-workspace/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 04ce0e001..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-shredder-workspace/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,12 +0,0 @@ -### Role in the Precious Plastic Universe - - First of all, make sure you had a look at the showcase page of this Starterkit! -👉 preciousplastic.com/starterkits/showcase/shredder - -Now about your Role: - -Shredder Workspaces are the backbone of the Precious Plastic Universe. - -They shred all the plastic gathered from the Collection Points and provide the raw material for all the other workspaces who transform it into new materials and objects. - -Shredder Workspaces are also responsible for maintaining high quality and pure material for the entire local network. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-shredder-workspace/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-shredder-workspace/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index d9f8e0853..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-shredder-workspace/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Outcomes - - The outcome of a Shredder Workspace is shredded plastic. - -Shredded plastic can be of various sizes (small, medium, large) and colours. Single colour shredded plastic is higher in value and people can pay more for that. - -The shredded plastic can then be bought from other Precious Plastic workspaces. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-shredder-workspace/step_10.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-shredder-workspace/step_10.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7f4d009a5..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-shredder-workspace/step_10.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Set up your space - - Super, you’ve got your Shredder Pro! But a shredder alone is not enough. - -Follow our tutorials on how to fully set up your shredder workspace with all the additional tools, furniture and posters needed to make your space ready. - -👉 community.preciousplastic.com/academy/spaces/shredder \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-shredder-workspace/step_11.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-shredder-workspace/step_11.md deleted file mode 100644 index a46d60333..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-shredder-workspace/step_11.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Safety - - Always stay safe. Of course, don’t put your fingers or hands in the blades. - -Find out more tips on how to stay safe in the Academy: -👉 community.preciousplastic.com/academy/plastic/safety - -It is also good to check out our safety videos on plastic here. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-shredder-workspace/step_12.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-shredder-workspace/step_12.md deleted file mode 100644 index 1b6a1a62f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-shredder-workspace/step_12.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Maintenance - - As you run your Shredder Workspace it is crucial that you maintain the shredder machine in order to prevent failures. Find out here how to best maintain the shredder. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-shredder-workspace/step_13.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-shredder-workspace/step_13.md deleted file mode 100644 index a05d1bb94..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-shredder-workspace/step_13.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Sort by colour - - When possible you should try to sort and shred the same plastic type by colour. This increases its value and gives more freedom to people making beautiful products from it. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-shredder-workspace/step_14.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-shredder-workspace/step_14.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9bd8241fc..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-shredder-workspace/step_14.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Shreds size - - Precious Plastic shredded plastic comes in three flake sizes: small, medium and large. Each size has a proper application (for example sheetpress can be ok with big flakes while extrusion needs small). - -You can create different sizes by using a sieve or shredding multiple times. More info here. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-shredder-workspace/step_15.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-shredder-workspace/step_15.md deleted file mode 100644 index 88125ca91..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-shredder-workspace/step_15.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Sell - - You can now produce shredded plastic, in many colours and sizes. Now it's crucial to find people and workspaces that want to buy your shredded plastic. - -Put them on the Precious Plastic Bazar to access an audience that is already interested in recycled products. -And then you can get creative on how you can sell your shreds locally to other workspaces. - -👉 bazar.preciousplastic.com \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-shredder-workspace/step_16.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-shredder-workspace/step_16.md deleted file mode 100644 index 48df2b97c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-shredder-workspace/step_16.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Create a profile - - If you haven’t already, it’s time to create your profile on the Precious Plastic Community Platform to connect with more people. - -Follow this link and sign up with your email, pick your role, put your pin on the map and upload nice pics to show the world what you’re doing. - -👉 community.preciousplastic.com/sign-up \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-shredder-workspace/step_17.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-shredder-workspace/step_17.md deleted file mode 100644 index 1c6b5b967..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-shredder-workspace/step_17.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Create How-to's! - - Share to the world how you run your Shredder Workspace so other people can learn from you and start using your solution to tackle the plastic problem. - -Make sure to only create How-to's for your best processes and techniques, not try outs or one offs. This can also help you create a name for yourself in the Precious Plastic community. - -👉 community.preciousplastic.com/how-to \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-shredder-workspace/step_18.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-shredder-workspace/step_18.md deleted file mode 100644 index b948ca16a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-shredder-workspace/step_18.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Learn and improve together - - Precious Plastic is nothing without the people. Working together and helping each other. Participate in the community, share back and make use of it, it can really pay off! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-shredder-workspace/step_19.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-shredder-workspace/step_19.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2db2ec3e0..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-shredder-workspace/step_19.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Good things take time - - Starting off will take some time in the beginning. It’s normal. Be patience, work smart and reach out to your Precious Plastic community if you need help. Everything will take off. You’re changing the world. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-shredder-workspace/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-shredder-workspace/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index b4723209a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-shredder-workspace/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Is this for you? - - For the Shredder Workspace you will have to be quite technical as you have to understand how the shredder machine works, ideally know how to maintain it and, as a plus, know how to fix it when it needs a bit of extra love. - -Shredder workspaces also need to connect to as many Collection Points as possible to ensure a constant flow of plastic waste so you also kind of need to like to deal with people. - -And last but not least, a certain degree of organisation is also always good to have. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-shredder-workspace/step_20.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-shredder-workspace/step_20.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8e75cec27..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-shredder-workspace/step_20.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Download and start! - - Ready and excited to start? -You're a hero! - -If you haven't done it yet, click on the yellow download button (in the top section of this page) to get the package with all the files you need to set up your Shredder Workspace. - -Download and start your recycling journey! :) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-shredder-workspace/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-shredder-workspace/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9195f7e16..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-shredder-workspace/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11 +0,0 @@ -### Learn about Precious Plastic - - As a start, it’s super important to really know and understand Precious Plastic. What drives the project, how it works, its philosophy and solutions. - -If you haven’t already, dig our website, community platform and Bazar to have a deep understanding of the project. -👉 preciousplastic.com -👉 community.preciousplastic.com -👉 bazar.preciousplastic.com - -Also, make sure to check the Universe chapter to fully understand how the Precious Plastic Universe works. -👉 community.preciousplastic.com/academy/universe \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-shredder-workspace/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-shredder-workspace/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7ee33b35a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-shredder-workspace/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Check out your area - - Get an overview of who and what is already existing in your area. - -Have a look on the Precious Plastic Map to see the activity around you. You can also search for more people on the Precious Plastic Bazar or search for #preciousplastic on social media. - -Make sure not to jam the local network, if there are already five shredder places around you, have a chat with them how to collaborate or maybe consider starting another type of workspace. - -👉 community.preciousplastic.com/map \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-shredder-workspace/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-shredder-workspace/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2a5c9253d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-shredder-workspace/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Find a Community Point near you - - Community Points are the glue of the Precious Plastic Universe. They know the ins and outs of your local network. They can help you in multiple ways but they generally have a very in-depth overview of local Precious Plastic spaces, people, useful shops, resources and can help you with planning out your project. You can find them on the map here. - -👉 community.preciousplastic.com/map \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-shredder-workspace/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-shredder-workspace/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index 1e4854afb..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-shredder-workspace/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Find out how to get your plastic - - Reach out to nearby Collection Points that should be able to provide you with the needed plastic. Or find other clever ways to collect plastic in your area. Also, your local Community Point should be able to give you a hand on that. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-shredder-workspace/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-shredder-workspace/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index 19e33f9ba..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-shredder-workspace/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Get on Discord - - Day to day discussions in the Precious Plastic Universe happen on Discord. - -Introduce yourself, say hi in your country channel and start to discover the different channels where people go deep into specific topics (building, collection, design etc..) - -Join the Discord: -👉 discordapp.com/invite/rnx7m4t \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-shredder-workspace/step_8.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-shredder-workspace/step_8.md deleted file mode 100644 index 193987ea9..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-shredder-workspace/step_8.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Find a space - - To help you find the perfect place for your workspace in the Download Kit you will find a floor plan with all the minimum requirements and a little cardboard tool to place your machines and tools in the workspace. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-shredder-workspace/step_9.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-shredder-workspace/step_9.md deleted file mode 100644 index cfc5134d2..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-a-shredder-workspace/step_9.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,12 +0,0 @@ -### Get your shredder - - Cool, now you have a space it’s time to get hold of your Shredder Pro. There are three ways to do that: - -1 Build it yourself following our tutorials -👉 community.preciousplastic.com/academy/build/shredderprobuild - -2 Buy it on the Bazar. -👉 bazar.preciousplastic.com - -3 Find a Machine Shop near you on the map that can build it for you. -👉 community.preciousplastic.com/map \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-extrusion-workspace/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-extrusion-workspace/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4c7366bbe..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-extrusion-workspace/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Set up an Extrusion Workspace - - -In this How-to we’re going to guide you through all the steps to set up an Extrusion Workspace. Learn about plastic, how to find a space, get the Extrusion machine, find customers and connect to the Precious Plastic Universe. - -Step 1-3: Intro -Step 4-9: Learn -Step 10-19: Set up -Step 20-25: Run -Step 26-29: Share \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-extrusion-workspace/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-extrusion-workspace/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index a53ae0d8b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-extrusion-workspace/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,12 +0,0 @@ -### Role - - First of all, make sure you had a look at the showcase page of this Starterkit! -👉 preciousplastic.com/starterkits/showcase/extrusion - -Now about your Role: - -Extrusion workspaces buy recycled shredded plastic (from Shredder Workspaces or from the Bazar) and transform it into recycled beams and bricks, or whatever other useful material and products you can come up with. - -The recycled plastic material can then be sold as raw material for others to create, or maybe you even turn them into valuable objects yourself. - -Extrusion workspaces should also reach out to Community Point to connect with the local Precious Plastic community and, maybe, get help selling their materials. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-extrusion-workspace/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-extrusion-workspace/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index b492e6254..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-extrusion-workspace/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Outcomes - - The outcome of an Extrusion Workspace can be recycled plastic beams, bricks or other material (there are a lot of possibilites). - -The beams can be of various sizes and shapes, and as long as needed. Make sure you don't miss playing around with different gradients and colours to make create a playful variety of outcomes. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-extrusion-workspace/step_10.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-extrusion-workspace/step_10.md deleted file mode 100644 index 13af1eded..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-extrusion-workspace/step_10.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Workspace Calculator - - Now you have your project nicely planned out and it’s starting to take shape in your mind. - -It is important at this stage to make a serious estimation of how much it will cost you to set up and run your workspace. Otherwise, you might run out of money halfway. The Workspace Calculator is a spreadsheet that helps you do just that. - -You can find the Workspace Calculator in the Download Kit or learn more in the Academy: -👉 community.preciousplastic.com/academy/business/workspacecalculator \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-extrusion-workspace/step_11.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-extrusion-workspace/step_11.md deleted file mode 100644 index e6e37823e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-extrusion-workspace/step_11.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Business Plan Template - - To help you pitch your idea to potential partners, financial institutions or investors we made a Business Plan Template (and a specific example for the Extrusion Workspace) for you to use. - -This template helps you to talk the business language and should help you access the necessary money to begin. - -For more explanation check out the video in the Academy: -👉 community.preciousplastic.com/academy/business/businessplan diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-extrusion-workspace/step_12.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-extrusion-workspace/step_12.md deleted file mode 100644 index b5cc65240..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-extrusion-workspace/step_12.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Tool list - - Alongside your Extrusion machine, you will need a number of other tools and machines to help you with the operations of the Extrusion Workspace. - -In the Download Kit, you will find a tool list with all the necessary tools to run your workspace. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-extrusion-workspace/step_13.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-extrusion-workspace/step_13.md deleted file mode 100644 index fda177adf..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-extrusion-workspace/step_13.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Find the space - - To help you find the perfect place for your workspace you can use the floor plan in the Download Kit, with all the minimum requirements and a little cardboard tool to place your machines and tools in the workspace. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-extrusion-workspace/step_14.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-extrusion-workspace/step_14.md deleted file mode 100644 index bd6548c61..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-extrusion-workspace/step_14.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,12 +0,0 @@ -### Get your extrusion - - Cool, now you have a space it’s time to get hold of your Extrusion machine. There are three ways to do that: - -1 Build it yourself following our tutorials -👉 community.preciousplastic.com/academy/build/extrusionprobuild - -2 Buy it on the Bazar. -👉 bazar.preciousplastic.com - -3 Find a Machine Shop near you on the map that can build it for you. -👉 community.preciousplastic.com/map \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-extrusion-workspace/step_15.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-extrusion-workspace/step_15.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2d37114ce..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-extrusion-workspace/step_15.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Build your space - - Super, you’ve got your Extrusion! But an Extrusion alone is not enough. - -You can watch our video on how to fully set up your Extrusion workspace with all the additional tools, furniture and posters needed to make your space ready. - -👉 community.preciousplastic.com/academy/spaces/extrusion \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-extrusion-workspace/step_16.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-extrusion-workspace/step_16.md deleted file mode 100644 index 22880d1e1..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-extrusion-workspace/step_16.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Safety - - Always stay safe! - -Of course, Extrusion machines get hot. And can cause a hazard in different ways. - -So before starting to melt, please check out our safety video to learn about dangers and how to stay safe when working with plastic. - -👉 community.preciousplastic.com/academy/plastic/safety \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-extrusion-workspace/step_17.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-extrusion-workspace/step_17.md deleted file mode 100644 index 1b14d2c69..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-extrusion-workspace/step_17.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Buy shredded plastic - - Buy shredded plastic -- from a local Shredder Workspace -community.preciousplastic.com/map -- or from the Bazar -bazar.preciousplastic.com - -Make sure to specify your preferred shreds size (small, medium or large) and to have a variety of colours and types. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-extrusion-workspace/step_18.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-extrusion-workspace/step_18.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9d768e83d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-extrusion-workspace/step_18.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Time to produce! - - Now that you have all the things in place it’s time to start making your recycled plastic material. Watch this video to learn how to make beams and adopt the best practices. - -You can also find tutorials and ideas for other products in the How-to's under the tag "extrusion". \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-extrusion-workspace/step_19.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-extrusion-workspace/step_19.md deleted file mode 100644 index 18cce1940..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-extrusion-workspace/step_19.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Make a variety - - Once you get a grasp on the process make sure to make a nice variety of colours, sizes and thicknesses to attract different customers. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-extrusion-workspace/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-extrusion-workspace/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index be129f7ae..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-extrusion-workspace/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Is this for you? - - For the Extrusion Workspace you will have to be quite technical as you have to understand how the Extrusion machine works, ideally know how to maintain it and, as a plus, know how to fix it when it needs a bit of extra love. - -Attention to details is also a nice, and some creativity to come up with new patterns and techniques. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-extrusion-workspace/step_20.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-extrusion-workspace/step_20.md deleted file mode 100644 index ce604967e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-extrusion-workspace/step_20.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Maintenance - - As you run your Extrusion Workspace it is crucial that you maintain the Extrusion machines in order to prevent failures. Find out here how to best maintain the Extrusion. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-extrusion-workspace/step_21.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-extrusion-workspace/step_21.md deleted file mode 100644 index f4a7bcbbb..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-extrusion-workspace/step_21.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Sell your beams - - You can now make beautiful beams. Many every day. Now is crucial to find people and organisations that want to buy your recycled beams. - -First, you should put them on the Precious Plastic Bazar to access an audience that is already interested in recycled products. Then you have to get creative on how to sell your beams locally. Shops, design studios, online stores and more. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-extrusion-workspace/step_22.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-extrusion-workspace/step_22.md deleted file mode 100644 index e5d889457..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-extrusion-workspace/step_22.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Create your profile - - If you haven’t already, it’s time to create your profile on the Precious Plastic Community Platform to connect with people. Follow this link and sign up with your email, pick your role, put your pin on the map and upload nice pics to show the world what you’re doing. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-extrusion-workspace/step_23.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-extrusion-workspace/step_23.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4abe57eea..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-extrusion-workspace/step_23.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Create How-tos! - - Share to the world how you run your Extrusion Workspace so other people can learn from you and start using your solution to tackle the plastic problem. - -Make sure to only create How-tos for your best processes and techniques, not tryouts or one-offs. This can also help you create a name for yourself in the Precious Plastic community. - -👉 community.preciousplastic.com/how-to \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-extrusion-workspace/step_24.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-extrusion-workspace/step_24.md deleted file mode 100644 index 346bb1bcb..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-extrusion-workspace/step_24.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Stay active on Discord - - Precious Plastic is people. People working together and helping each other. Go to Discord and connect with people. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-extrusion-workspace/step_25.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-extrusion-workspace/step_25.md deleted file mode 100644 index 18e1999b8..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-extrusion-workspace/step_25.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Good things take time - - Starting off will take some time in the beginning. It’s normal. Be patience, work smart and reach out to your Precious Plastic community if you need help. Everything will take off. -You’re changing the world. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-extrusion-workspace/step_26.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-extrusion-workspace/step_26.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7d603ac85..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-extrusion-workspace/step_26.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Download and start! - - Ready and excited to start? -You're a hero! - -If you haven't done it yet, click on the yellow download button (in the top section of this page) to get the package with all the files you need to set up your Extrusion Workspace. - -Download and start your recycling journey! :) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-extrusion-workspace/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-extrusion-workspace/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9195f7e16..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-extrusion-workspace/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11 +0,0 @@ -### Learn about Precious Plastic - - As a start, it’s super important to really know and understand Precious Plastic. What drives the project, how it works, its philosophy and solutions. - -If you haven’t already, dig our website, community platform and Bazar to have a deep understanding of the project. -👉 preciousplastic.com -👉 community.preciousplastic.com -👉 bazar.preciousplastic.com - -Also, make sure to check the Universe chapter to fully understand how the Precious Plastic Universe works. -👉 community.preciousplastic.com/academy/universe \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-extrusion-workspace/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-extrusion-workspace/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index e2c342373..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-extrusion-workspace/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Check out your area - - Get an overview of who and what is already existing in your area. - -Have a look on the Precious Plastic Map to see the activity around you. You can also search for more people on the Precious Plastic Bazar or search for #preciousplastic on social media. - -Make sure not to jam the local network, if there are already many Extrusion Workspaces around, have a chat about collaboration with them first, or maybe consider starting another type of space. - -👉 community.preciousplastic.com/map \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-extrusion-workspace/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-extrusion-workspace/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2a5c9253d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-extrusion-workspace/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Find a Community Point near you - - Community Points are the glue of the Precious Plastic Universe. They know the ins and outs of your local network. They can help you in multiple ways but they generally have a very in-depth overview of local Precious Plastic spaces, people, useful shops, resources and can help you with planning out your project. You can find them on the map here. - -👉 community.preciousplastic.com/map \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-extrusion-workspace/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-extrusion-workspace/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index c8d6f623b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-extrusion-workspace/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Find your plastic supply - - You can use the Precious Plastic Map and the Bazar to find Shredder workspaces around you that can provide you with the raw material: shredded plastic waste. - -If you have a local Community Point, they might be able to give you a hand with this as well. - -👉 community.preciousplastic.com/map -👉 bazar.preciousplastic.com diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-extrusion-workspace/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-extrusion-workspace/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index f88cbc6e0..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-extrusion-workspace/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Get on Discord - - Day to day discussions in the Precious Plastic Universe happen on Discord. - -Introduce yourself, say hi in your country channel and start to discover the different channels where people go deep into specific topics (building, collection, design etc..) - -Join the Discord: -👉 discordapp.com/invite/rnx7m4t diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-extrusion-workspace/step_8.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-extrusion-workspace/step_8.md deleted file mode 100644 index 906887961..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-extrusion-workspace/step_8.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Learn the basics of plastic - - Before you start it is crucial to get a solid understanding of plastic. How it works, the different types, melting temperatures and so on. Head over to our Academy and dive into the plastic chapters to learn about the different types and properties etc. - -👉 community.preciousplastic.com/academy/plastic/basics \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-extrusion-workspace/step_9.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-extrusion-workspace/step_9.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7836557c0..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-extrusion-workspace/step_9.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Fill in the Action Plan - - Before jumping into making machines or finding a space it is smart to sit down and properly plan your project and shape your vision. - -To help you plan we’ve made a graphic tool called the Action Plan that helps you to craft your mission, understand your customers, revenue streams, costs and much more. With this tool, you should get a step closer to create a successful project. - -You can find the Action Plan in the Download Kit or learn more in the Academy -👉 community.preciousplastic.com/academy/business/actionplan diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 96f385288..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Set up an Injection Workspace - - -In this How-to we’re going to guide you through all the steps to setup an Injection Workspace. Learn about plastic, how to find a space, get the Injection and Shredder machine, find customers and connect to the Precious Plastic Universe. - -Step 1-3: Intro -Step 4-9: Learn -Step 10-19: Set up -Step 20-25: Run -Step 26-29: Share \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 0679d4f71..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Role - - First of all, make sure you had a look at the showcase page of this Starterkit! -👉 preciousplastic.com/starterkits/showcase/injection - -Now about your Role: - -Injection Workspaces shred plastic waste and transform it into valuable products. The volumes of plastic are smaller, so they can either set up a small plastic collection in-house or get in contact with the local Collection point. The products are sold directly to customers or organizations. Workshops are also a valuable asset for Injection Workspaces. - -Injection workspaces should also reach out to Community Point to connect with the local Precious Plastic community and maybe get help selling their products or find plastic waste. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9bb647a87..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Outcomes - - The outcome of an Injection Workspace is recycled plastic products. These products can vary greatly depending on needs but they’re generally of high precision and can be made in series creating small productions for customers. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_10.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_10.md deleted file mode 100644 index fd646965b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_10.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Business Plan Template - - To help you pitch your idea to potential partners, financial institutions or investors we made a Business Plan Template (and a specific example for the Injection Workspace) for you to use. This template helps you to talk the business language and should help you access the necessary money to begin. - -For more explanation check out the video in the Academy: -👉 community.preciousplastic.com/academy/business/businessplan diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_11.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_11.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4b3cfabe1..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_11.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Tool list - - Alongside your Injection and Shredder machine you will need a number of other tools and machines to help you with the operations of the Injection Workspace. In the Download Kit you will find a tool list with all the necessary tools to run your workspace. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_12.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_12.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4cd9587ea..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_12.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Assemble your team - - We’ve heard it over and over. People are what makes a project succeed or fail. Choose carefully and create a team of passionate people that want to change the world and are not afraid of sleepless nights. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_13.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_13.md deleted file mode 100644 index 54cf231dd..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_13.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Find a space - - To help you find the perfect place for your workspace in the Download Kit you will find a floor plan with all the minimum requirements and a little cardboard tool to place your machines and tools in the workspace. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_14.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_14.md deleted file mode 100644 index 91cb32de4..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_14.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,13 +0,0 @@ -### Get your machines - - Cool, now you have a space it’s time to get hold of your Injection and Shredder machine. There are three ways to do that: - -1 Build them yourself following our tutorials -👉 community.preciousplastic.com/academy/build/injection -👉 community.preciousplastic.com/academy/build/shredder - -2 Buy them on the Bazar. -👉 bazar.preciousplastic.com - -3 Find a Machine Shop near you on the map that can build them for you. -👉 community.preciousplastic.com/map \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_15.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_15.md deleted file mode 100644 index e12aac65b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_15.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Build your workspace - - Super, you’ve got your machines! But machines alone are not enough. - -Follow our tutorials on how to fully setup your Injection Workspace with all the additional tools, furniture and posters needed to make your space ready. - -👉 community.preciousplastic.com/academy/spaces/injection diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_16.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_16.md deleted file mode 100644 index 5c2c33258..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_16.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Safety - - Always stay safe. - -Of course, Injection machines get hot. And can cause a hazard in different ways. - -So before starting to melt, please check out our safety video to learn about dangers and how to stay safe when working with plastic. - -👉 community.preciousplastic.com/academy/plastic/safety \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_17.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_17.md deleted file mode 100644 index 05ec45cdf..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_17.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Get your precious plastic - - Now you need to get some plastic waste to be recycled. - -You can make contact with a Collection Point or find clever ways to get people to bring you plastic. The volumes you will need are not huge so a small collection setup in your workspace can work. - -If you want to dive more into ways to collect plastic, \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_18.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_18.md deleted file mode 100644 index 1fc2d1f0b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_18.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Shred your plastic - - Shred the plastic waste collected into small shreds ready to be used in the injection machine. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_19.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_19.md deleted file mode 100644 index 31411e00e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_19.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Get some moulds - - To make products you need moulds. Moulds can be done in multiple ways. You can check our Create section in the Academy or the How-to for inspiration and to learn more about moulds. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4a73ce53b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Is this for you? - - For the Injection Workspace you will have to be quite technical as you have to understand how the Injection machine and shredder work, ideally know how to maintain it and, as a plus, know how to fix it when it needs a bit of extra love. - -You will also need some degree of design understanding and creativity to be able to come up with good products and design a mould. A plus would also be some knowledge on 3D software. - -And paying attention to details will result in stunning and high quality products. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_20.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_20.md deleted file mode 100644 index cdf2fee7f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_20.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Make some products! - - Now that you have all the things in place it’s time to start injecting some products. Browse the How-to and Create chapter in the Academy to learn how to make an injected product and adopt the best practices. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_21.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_21.md deleted file mode 100644 index aa6378142..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_21.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Make a variety - - Once you get a grasp on the process make sure to make a nice variety of colours and patterns to attract different customers. Once mastered a product, you could think of new products and designs. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_22.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_22.md deleted file mode 100644 index 0851963b6..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_22.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Maintenance - - As you run your Injection Workspace it is crucial that you maintain the Injection and Shredder machine in order to prevent failures. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_23.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_23.md deleted file mode 100644 index a19f7a392..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_23.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Sell - - You can now make great products in series. Now is crucial to find people and organisations that want to buy your recycled products. - -First, you should put them on the Precious Plastic Bazar to access an audience that is already interested in recycled products. Then, you have to get creative on how to sell your products locally. Shops, design studios, online stores and more. - -Possibilities are endless and, nowadays, everyone wants a piece of recycled plastic! diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_24.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_24.md deleted file mode 100644 index e0d80c3a6..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_24.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Run workshops - - A great way to educate (and earn some money) is to make workshops and demonstrations for people, organizations and schools. You can run workshops at events, conferences and conventions showing how Precious Plastic recycling works. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_25.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_25.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7874b30bc..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_25.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Create your profile - - If you haven’t already, it’s time to create your profile on the Precious Plastic Community Platform to connect with people. Follow this link and sign up with your email, pick your role, put your pin on the map and upload nice pics to show the world what you’re doing. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_26.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_26.md deleted file mode 100644 index 6d673f1de..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_26.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Create How-tos! - - Share to the world how you run your Injection Workspace so other people can learn from you and start using your solution to tackle the plastic problem. - -Make sure to only create How-tos for your best processes and techniques, not try outs or one offs. This can also help you create a name for yourself in the Precious Plastic community. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_27.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_27.md deleted file mode 100644 index 346bb1bcb..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_27.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Stay active on Discord - - Precious Plastic is people. People working together and helping each other. Go to Discord and connect with people. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_28.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_28.md deleted file mode 100644 index 20b1af7db..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_28.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Good things take time - - Starting off will take some time in the beginning. It’s normal. Be patience, work smart and reach out to your Precious Plastic community if you need help. Everything will take off. - -You’re changing the world. Thank you! diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_29.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_29.md deleted file mode 100644 index bb91b8010..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_29.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Download and start! - - Ready and excited to start? -You're a hero! - -If you haven't done it yet, click on the yellow download button (in the top section of this page) to get the package with all the files you need to set up your Injection Workspace. - -Download and start your recycling journey! :) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9195f7e16..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11 +0,0 @@ -### Learn about Precious Plastic - - As a start, it’s super important to really know and understand Precious Plastic. What drives the project, how it works, its philosophy and solutions. - -If you haven’t already, dig our website, community platform and Bazar to have a deep understanding of the project. -👉 preciousplastic.com -👉 community.preciousplastic.com -👉 bazar.preciousplastic.com - -Also, make sure to check the Universe chapter to fully understand how the Precious Plastic Universe works. -👉 community.preciousplastic.com/academy/universe \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index f63216066..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Check out your area - - Get an overview of who and what is already existing in your area. - -Have a look on the Precious Plastic Map to see the activity around you. You can also search for more people on the Precious Plastic Bazar or search for #preciousplastic on social media. - -👉 community.preciousplastic.com/map - -Make sure not to jam the local network, if there are already five Injection places around you, have a chat with them how to collaborate or maybe consider starting another type of workspace. - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 6f1327d25..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Find a Community Point near you - - Community Points are the glue of the Precious Plastic Universe. They know the ins and outs of your local network. - -They can help you in multiple ways but they generally have a very in-depth overview of local Precious Plastic spaces, people, useful shops, resources and can help you with planning out your project. You can find them on the map. - - -👉 community.preciousplastic.com/map \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index 19e33f9ba..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Get on Discord - - Day to day discussions in the Precious Plastic Universe happen on Discord. - -Introduce yourself, say hi in your country channel and start to discover the different channels where people go deep into specific topics (building, collection, design etc..) - -Join the Discord: -👉 discordapp.com/invite/rnx7m4t \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index b8b674da3..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Learn the basics of plastic - - Before you start it is crucial to get a solid understanding of plastic. How it works, the different types, melting temperatures and so on. - -Head over to our Academy and dive deep in the Plastic chapter. -👉community.preciousplastic.com/academy/plastic/basics diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_8.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_8.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7836557c0..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_8.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Fill in the Action Plan - - Before jumping into making machines or finding a space it is smart to sit down and properly plan your project and shape your vision. - -To help you plan we’ve made a graphic tool called the Action Plan that helps you to craft your mission, understand your customers, revenue streams, costs and much more. With this tool, you should get a step closer to create a successful project. - -You can find the Action Plan in the Download Kit or learn more in the Academy -👉 community.preciousplastic.com/academy/business/actionplan diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_9.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_9.md deleted file mode 100644 index 3c3c123e5..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-an-injection-workspace/step_9.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Workspace Calculator - - Now you have your project nicely planned out and it’s starting to take shape. - -It is important at this stage to make a serious estimation of how much it will cost you to set up and run your workspace. Otherwise, you might run out of money halfway. The Workspace Calculator is a spreadsheet that helps you to do that. - -You can find the Workspace Calculator in the Download Kit or learn more in the Academy: -👉 community.preciousplastic.com/academy/business/workspacecalculator \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-devsite-to-help-coding/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-devsite-to-help-coding/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index d85fc5bbc..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-devsite-to-help-coding/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Set up dev-site to help coding! - - -Hello Coder! This is what we want to make https://build.onearmy.world/ The code of our platform can be found open-source on Github. There is still a lot of work to do and things to improve, we need a community of developers to help out improve it and fix issues. In this how-to i’ll show you how to download it and run it on your local computer so you can play around with the code, add modifications and share back to us. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-devsite-to-help-coding/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-devsite-to-help-coding/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index bb245179d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-devsite-to-help-coding/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Get the code - - First step go to Github, and download or clone our code. I’d recommend to install the Github app to add pull request in a later stage. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-devsite-to-help-coding/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-devsite-to-help-coding/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 54c5d89e9..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-devsite-to-help-coding/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Install install node js - - Pretty straight forward, download the files on their website and install. https://nodejs.org/en/#download diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-devsite-to-help-coding/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-devsite-to-help-coding/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index e1e1b03ba..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-devsite-to-help-coding/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Install Yarn in Terminal - - Open up the terminal and install Yarn in the root directory. -1: Running the command “sudo npm i -g yarnâ€. -2: Run the command “yarn†to install. -To make sure its installed in the root type “cd†in terminal, drag the root folder on the terminal press enter. and then run “yarn†\ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-devsite-to-help-coding/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-devsite-to-help-coding/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 62c431dcf..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-devsite-to-help-coding/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Step Deploy local network - - In Terminal run command “yarn start†to run. Like above make sure it runs in the root folder diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-devsite-to-help-coding/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-devsite-to-help-coding/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 041374608..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/set-up-devsite-to-help-coding/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Have fun 🤙 - - As you can see we currently in V0.4. Lot's of work to do and things to fix! Start coding and add your pull requests to Github, on Tuesday we review code :) -* \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/sheetpress-a-simple-way-low-cost/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/sheetpress-a-simple-way-low-cost/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index b0c78b3ec..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/sheetpress-a-simple-way-low-cost/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Sheetpress, a simple way, low cost - - -PP sheetpress is only useful for pellets or HDPE chips, but we need solutions for all kinds of plastic, mostly flakes from our shredders.... boards larger than 1 m2 are not necessary for most of the furnitiure.... so we created a new way to make boards from the mix to really help nature ... and we need solutions also for remote places like islands, mountains ...nobody will transport trash from there to facilities \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/sheetpress-a-simple-way-low-cost/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/sheetpress-a-simple-way-low-cost/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 42bd28a94..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/sheetpress-a-simple-way-low-cost/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### New way to press sheets - - We use the mix of plastic, but not PET, as there are established collections everywhere We take what the system does not ... alu compounds, foams, tape, strings, nets, TV boxes, fridge boxes and everything you find on beaches, excluded PU from motorbike seats ... -We create hard surfaces that do not decay to microplastic as fast as PP,PE ... -Our press is cheap and can be transported in a car. Our boards are limited size 42×58×1 cm, which is sufficient for most of furnitiure, so we can add more value than by making bricks or tiles. See the last video on PACIFIC BEAUTY plastic. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/sheetpress-a-simple-way-low-cost/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/sheetpress-a-simple-way-low-cost/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 177feba31..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/sheetpress-a-simple-way-low-cost/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Hard surface with nearly no microplastic - - We fill a tray of 62×42×20 with a layer of EPS rocks and add some colorful HDPE or PP. This layer should be only 10 percent of the boards weigh, about 200 grams. Then we add 1800 grams of trash plastic mix. We put the tray in our toaster between 2 hot aluminium plates. The tray consists of 2 parts, so that it is easy to open and clean by steel brush. The iron sheets are thin , so that not much energy is necessary to heat it up. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/sheetpress-a-simple-way-low-cost/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/sheetpress-a-simple-way-low-cost/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 131e5472c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/sheetpress-a-simple-way-low-cost/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### No smell, no fumes, no noise - - The tray with the hot plastic board is put into a second frame and fixed by clamps. One 50 cm clamp has a pressure of 500 kg, enough to keep it in shape while cooling The toaster is ready for the next board. It takes 20 minutes to heat a mass of 2 kg plastic by a system of 5 kW. You can't heat more quickly, as plastic does not transfer heat well and can't uptake much energy per time. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/sheetpress-a-simple-way-low-cost/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/sheetpress-a-simple-way-low-cost/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8077cd023..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/sheetpress-a-simple-way-low-cost/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Create hard surfaces with nearly no microplastic r - - Making boards from HDPE bottlecaps doesn't help nature much. We need solutions for the mix of plastic we find in the environment. With our method we can produce up to 20 boards 60.40.1 cm a day. There are colleagues who buy a PP sheetpress and then find out you can't use it with flakes. Therefore my video is provoking. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/sheetpress-upgrade/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/sheetpress-upgrade/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7191f70f2..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/sheetpress-upgrade/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,12 +0,0 @@ -### Sheetpress v4.1 - - -We have build the sheetpress system with some upgrades which we believe are worth sharing! In short: - -- Shared our labour hours for realistic price estimation -- Making all sheets & parts suitable for lasercutting and sheet metal bending -- Updated the bom-list -- Made changes to the circuit diagram -- Etc, - -See files below for more information diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/sheetpress-upgrade/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/sheetpress-upgrade/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 5ded35676..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/sheetpress-upgrade/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### See updates 4.1 document - - In here we described: -- The updates we did -- We explain the problems we encountered during building -- Also we shared the hours we put into the build with an estimation of the cost price if you will make the machine commercial -- We propose further future improvements which can be done - -Displayed picture: The biggest hickup we encountered during building was that we underestimated how important it was to ream the holes of the aluminium blocks to the exact measurements. Followed by heating the blocks to 250 degrees and pressure fit the heating element in to the holes. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/sheetpress-upgrade/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/sheetpress-upgrade/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 967e82de7..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/sheetpress-upgrade/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### See cad files - - All sheets and tubes are optimised for lasercutting & bended sheet metal. This reduces a lot of the labour involved in making it since the parts easily fit and are numbered. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/sheetpress-upgrade/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/sheetpress-upgrade/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index ae3a14461..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/sheetpress-upgrade/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### See electric & BOM diagram - - We made some changes tot the electric circuit diagram and updated the Bom list with suppliers we have chosen \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/sheetpress-v4---fiction-factory-version/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/sheetpress-v4---fiction-factory-version/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 76d1c5e61..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/sheetpress-v4---fiction-factory-version/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,12 +0,0 @@ -### Sheetpress v4 - Fiction Factory version - - -We have build the sheetpress system with some upgrades which we believe are worth sharing! In short: - -- Shared our labour hours for realistic price estimation -- Making all sheets & parts suitable for lasercutting and sheet metal bending -- Updated the bom-list -- Made changes to the circuit diagram -- Etc, - -See files below for more information diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/sheetpress-v4---fiction-factory-version/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/sheetpress-v4---fiction-factory-version/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index a6e4c68a9..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/sheetpress-v4---fiction-factory-version/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### See document: Updates V4-FF - - In here we described: -- The updates we did -- We explain the problems we encountered during building -- Also we shared the hours we put into the build with an estimation of the cost price if you will make the machine commercial -- We propose further future improvements which can be done - -Displayed picture: The biggest hickup we encountered during building was that we underestimated how important it was to ream the holes of the aluminium blocks to the exact measurements. Our solution was to ream the holes to 11.95mm, followed by heating the blocks to 250 degrees and pressure fit the heating element in to the holes. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/sheetpress-v4---fiction-factory-version/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/sheetpress-v4---fiction-factory-version/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 79e9105c5..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/sheetpress-v4---fiction-factory-version/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### See CAD files - - All sheets and tubes are optimised for lasercutting & bended sheet metal. So you can order it as a kit ready to weld, no need to cut any steel tube by hand. This reduces a lot of the labour involved in making it since the parts easily fit and are numbered. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/sheetpress-v4---fiction-factory-version/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/sheetpress-v4---fiction-factory-version/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index d0c46e5ad..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/sheetpress-v4---fiction-factory-version/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### See electric & BOM diagram - - We made some changes tot the electric circuit diagram and updated the Bom list with suppliers we have chosen. - -Also we added a kWh meter which can set to zero when you start your day melting plates! This way you can track the electricity needed, and thereafter calculate this to a Co2 load. - -We added signal lights on each group and old ceramic fuses. The signal lights gives visual feedback when a heatign group is active. The ceramic fuses protect the heating goups in case of a short circuit. We discovered ceramic is needed since they can get a bit hot. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/sheetpress-v4---fiction-factory-version/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/sheetpress-v4---fiction-factory-version/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index bdee6e113..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/sheetpress-v4---fiction-factory-version/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Making plastic precious again! - - The first commercial client where we used our machine for is The Student Hotel in Delft. From post-production HDPE plastic we made the black&white cladding of their bar. The client wanted us to incoporate their waste streams which where mainly (HDPE) bottle-caps from soda bottles. The caps are melted in to the plate's. - -Also we used a lot of PET plastic plate's from Smile plastics in England. With the help of the Sheetpress we could easily bend them for the rounded bars. - -The blue-white plates from PS where made by the Good Plastic Company. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/sheetpress-v4--fiction-factory-version/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/sheetpress-v4--fiction-factory-version/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 11bdfa490..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/sheetpress-v4--fiction-factory-version/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,14 +0,0 @@ -### Sheetpress v4 -Fiction Factory version - - -We have build the sheetpress system with some upgrades which we believe are worth sharing! In short: - -- Shared our labour hours for realistic price estimation -- Making all sheets & parts suitable for lasercutting and sheet metal bending -- Updated the bom-list -- Made changes to the circuit diagram -- Etc, - -See files below for more information - -(last update:23-10-2020) diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/sheetpress-v4--fiction-factory-version/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/sheetpress-v4--fiction-factory-version/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index f1d9806d8..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/sheetpress-v4--fiction-factory-version/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11 +0,0 @@ -### See document: Updates V4-FF - - In here we described: -- The updates we did -- We explain the problems we encountered during building -- Also we shared the hours we put into the build with an estimation of the cost price if you will make the machine commercial -- We propose further future improvements which can be done - -Displayed picture: The biggest hickup we encountered during building was that we underestimated how important it was to ream the holes of the aluminium blocks to the exact measurements. - -After chatting on Discord with "truth-teller", we reamed the holes to 11.95mm, followed by heating the blocks to 250 degrees (making the hole temporarily bigger) and pressure fit the heating element in to the holes. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/sheetpress-v4--fiction-factory-version/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/sheetpress-v4--fiction-factory-version/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index e75ba099e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/sheetpress-v4--fiction-factory-version/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### See CAD files - - All sheets and tubes are optimised for lasercutting & bended sheet metal. So you can order it as a IKEA-kit ready to weld, no need to cut any steel tubes by hand anymore. This greatly reduces the labour involved in making it since the parts easily fit and are numbered. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/sheetpress-v4--fiction-factory-version/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/sheetpress-v4--fiction-factory-version/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 464a3ddf8..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/sheetpress-v4--fiction-factory-version/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### See electric & BOM diagram - - We made some changes tot the electric circuit diagram and updated the Bom list with suppliers we have chosen. - -Also we added a kWh meter which can set to zero when you start your day melting plates! This way you can track the electricity needed, and thereafter calculate this to a Co2 load for a plate of plastic. - -We added signal lights on each group and old ceramic fuses. The signal lights gives visual feedback when a heatign group is active. The ceramic fuses protect the heating goups in case of a short circuit. We discovered ceramic is needed since they can get a bit hot. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/sheetpress-v4--fiction-factory-version/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/sheetpress-v4--fiction-factory-version/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 6825de256..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/sheetpress-v4--fiction-factory-version/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Making plastic Precious again! - - When done the possibilities are endless. - -The first commercial client where we used our machine for is The Student Hotel in Delft. Thet wanted a sustainable circular design for their interior. From post-production HDPE plastic we made the black&white cladding of their bar. The client wanted us to incoporate their waste streams which where mainly (HDPE) bottle-caps from soda bottles. The caps are melted in to the plate's. - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/sheetpress-v4--fiction-factory-version/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/sheetpress-v4--fiction-factory-version/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index df4e94379..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/sheetpress-v4--fiction-factory-version/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Making plastic Precious again! - - Another advantage of the sheetpress is the ability to bend solid surfaces. We used a lot of PET plastic plate's from Smile plastics in England. With the help of the Sheetpress we could easily bend them for the rounded bars. - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/shr---33-/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/shr---33-/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index d844bd402..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/shr---33-/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### SHR - 3.3 - - -Shredding is the first step of processing the precious plastic that you collected. It will break apart it into flakes and then they will be ready to be processed with the other machines to create new precious products 🙌. The main diffference between the Shredder Basic and PRO it's their shredding capacity, the SHRPRO can shred up to 50 kg/h and the SHR Basic up to 15 kg/h. - -This latest version of the Shredder Basic (3.3) solves 2 main problems: Safety and transportability. How? By following the CE safety requirements (European standards) and designing it to be as compact as possible. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/shr---33-/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/shr---33-/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 911f0f88e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/shr---33-/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,13 +0,0 @@ -### Download - - First off, click on the Download button above to check out all the files for this machine! - -In this folder you will find: -- 3D CAD (.step and .f3d) -- Lasercut files (.dxf) -- Blueprints (.pdf) -- Schematics -- BOM -... and more :) - -You can see a preview of all the files (in case you are just curious 👀) and you'll also be able to download them for manufacturing 🔧 diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/shr---33-/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/shr---33-/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 5f8aeb73f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/shr---33-/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,19 +0,0 @@ -### Build - - There are a few required skills and machinery you'll need to have if you’re building this machine yourself, or for the machine builder if you are asking someone else to build it for you: - -- General metalworking (cutting, drilling) -- Welding -- Turning (machining on a lathe) -- Laser cutting -- General electrical work (wiring safety switch, temperature controllers…) -- Motor electrical work (wiring motor, contactor, overload protection…) -- Programming (VFD if you use one) -- Advanced assembly work (require specific tools, measurement instruments and tolerances knowledge to align and assemble) -- Painting - -âš™ï¸ Machinery / specific tools needed: -- Grinder, chop saw, MIG/MAG or TIG, drill press -- Lathe -- Laser cutting (this can easily be subcontracted around the world) -- Torque wrench and bearing mounting tool \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/shr---33-/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/shr---33-/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index e2ce72b9c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/shr---33-/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,12 +0,0 @@ -### Run, Create and Sell :) - - READY TO SHRED? - -To run and maintain this machine properly and safely, make sure to have a look at its MANUAL: -👉 https://workbench.grabcad.com/workbench/projects/gcUbMRKUCFx7X5PxSFsPZs9Em9RwRsNaz30AJEp-hmriQl#/space/gc5PUkFy1QZe-n49PeCWmCLojw8Y3ieBpX2S96s8tcRKS-/link/3346603 - -Buy and sell on the Bazar! -On the Precious Plastic Bazar, you can buy machine parts to maintain your machine, or sell your machine or the shredded plastic you're producing with it - or much more! -👉 bazar.preciousplastic.com - -Happy shredding! 🤗 diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/shredder-21/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/shredder-21/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4771614ba..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/shredder-21/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Shredder 2.1 - - -We’ve gathered a lot of feedback on the shredder from our community and made a small upgrade which makes it a bit easier to build, swap the mesh and chop plastic. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/shredder-21/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/shredder-21/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 5c33226e9..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/shredder-21/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Get ready - - The laser cut files are updated: - -We got rid of the 4 brackets on the side, making the building process easier as you don’t need to cut the angle profiles and drill holes (if you want you can still place them, they are backwards compatible). - -We also improved the design of the mesh, which is more robust and can be taken out from the side. Simply slide out the two metal rods and the mesh pops out underneath (same process to put it back in). - -And lastly, we've also improved the hopper making it safer and more efficient, you can now press the plastic down while the machine is running without chopping of your fingers :) diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/shredder-21/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/shredder-21/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index faad85534..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/shredder-21/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Laser cut and assemble - - Download and send the cutting files to your local lasercutter and get the parts cut. -This version is similar to the V2 but some components have been simplified and combined with laser cutting. - -Then assemble the laser parts, making sure the alignment is right then weld the parts together. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/shredder-21/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/shredder-21/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index b20085eca..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/shredder-21/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Build hopper and plunger - - As you will find in the technical drawings, there is a hopper and a plunging system that can be used to make the machine a bit safer. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/shredder-pro-shrpro---20/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/shredder-pro-shrpro---20/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 35f0f2f58..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/shredder-pro-shrpro---20/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### SHREDDER PRO (SHRPRO - 2.0) - - -The Shredder Pro - 2.0 is an iteration based on the Shredder Pro - 1.0 (https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/build/shredderpro) -With this machine you can shred your plastic into flakes (50kg/h), ready to melt them into precious products 🙌 - -This version of the Shredder PRO (2.0) solves one main problem: Safety. How? By following the CE safety requirements (European standards). - -In this how-to you'll find all the files, infos and the requirements you'll need to build and run this machine yourself :) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/shredder-pro-shrpro---20/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/shredder-pro-shrpro---20/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 94928b0bd..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/shredder-pro-shrpro---20/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,13 +0,0 @@ -### Download - - First off, check out the Grabcad link above to download all the files for this machine! - -In this folder you will find: -- 3D CAD (.step and .f3d) -- Lasercut files (.dxf) -- Blueprints (.pdf) -- Schematics -- BOM -... and more :) - -You can see a preview of all the files (in case you are just curious 👀) and you'll also be able to download them for manufacturing 🔧 diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/shredder-pro-shrpro---20/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/shredder-pro-shrpro---20/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index e73c8aa9f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/shredder-pro-shrpro---20/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,18 +0,0 @@ -### Build - - These are the required skills and machinery the machine builder will need to have access to: -General metalworking (cutting, drilling) -Welding -Turning (machining on a lathe) -Laser cutting -General electrical work (wiring safety switch, temperature controllers…) -Motor electrical work (wiring motor, contactor, overload protection…) -Programming (VFD if you use one) -Advanced assembly work (require specific tools, measurement instruments and tolerances knowledge to align and assemble) -Painting - -âš™ï¸ Machinery / specific tools needed: -Grinder, chop saw, MIG/MAG or TIG, drill press -Lathe -Laser cutting (this can easily be subcontracted around the world) -Torque wrench and bearing mounting tool \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/shredder-pro-shrpro---20/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/shredder-pro-shrpro---20/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 240f4998f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/shredder-pro-shrpro---20/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11 +0,0 @@ -### Run, Maintain, Create and Sell :) - - READY TO SHRED? -To run and maintain this machine properly and safely, make sure to have a look at its MANUAL: -👉 https://workbench.grabcad.com/workbench/projects/gcUbMRKUCFx7X5PxSFsPZs9Em9RwRsNaz30AJEp-hmriQl#/space/gc5PUkFy1QZe-n49PeCWmCLojw8Y3ieBpX2S96s8tcRKS-/link/3346603 - -Buy and sell on the Bazar! -On the Precious Plastic Bazar, you can buy machine parts to maintain your machine, or sell your machine or the shredded plastic you're producing with it - or much more! -👉 bazar.preciousplastic.com - -Happy shredding! 🤗 \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/shrpro---20/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/shrpro---20/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 57fec6ab8..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/shrpro---20/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### SHRPRO - 2.0 - - -The Shredder Pro - 2.0 is an iteration based on the Shredder Pro - 1.0 (https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/build/shredderpro) -With this machine you can shred your plastic into flakes (50kg/h), ready to melt them into precious products 🙌 - -This version of the Shredder PRO (2.0) solves one main problem: Safety. How? By following the CE safety requirements (European standards). - -In this how-to you'll find all the files, infos and the requirements you'll need to build and run this machine yourself :) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/shrpro---20/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/shrpro---20/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 94928b0bd..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/shrpro---20/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,13 +0,0 @@ -### Download - - First off, check out the Grabcad link above to download all the files for this machine! - -In this folder you will find: -- 3D CAD (.step and .f3d) -- Lasercut files (.dxf) -- Blueprints (.pdf) -- Schematics -- BOM -... and more :) - -You can see a preview of all the files (in case you are just curious 👀) and you'll also be able to download them for manufacturing 🔧 diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/shrpro---20/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/shrpro---20/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 32107e560..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/shrpro---20/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,19 +0,0 @@ -### Build - - These are the required skills and machinery you or your machine builder will need to have access to: - -- General metalworking (cutting, drilling) -- Welding -- Turning (machining on a lathe) -- Laser cutting -- General electrical work (wiring safety switch, temperature controllers…) -- Motor electrical work (wiring motor, contactor, overload protection…) -- Programming (VFD if you use one) -- Advanced assembly work (require specific tools, measurement instruments and tolerances knowledge to align and assemble) -- Painting - -âš™ï¸ Machinery / specific tools needed: -- Grinder, chop saw, MIG/MAG or TIG, drill press -- Lathe -- Laser cutting (this can easily be subcontracted around the world) -- Torque wrench and bearing mounting tool \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/shrpro---20/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/shrpro---20/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 240f4998f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/shrpro---20/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11 +0,0 @@ -### Run, Maintain, Create and Sell :) - - READY TO SHRED? -To run and maintain this machine properly and safely, make sure to have a look at its MANUAL: -👉 https://workbench.grabcad.com/workbench/projects/gcUbMRKUCFx7X5PxSFsPZs9Em9RwRsNaz30AJEp-hmriQl#/space/gc5PUkFy1QZe-n49PeCWmCLojw8Y3ieBpX2S96s8tcRKS-/link/3346603 - -Buy and sell on the Bazar! -On the Precious Plastic Bazar, you can buy machine parts to maintain your machine, or sell your machine or the shredded plastic you're producing with it - or much more! -👉 bazar.preciousplastic.com - -Happy shredding! 🤗 \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/silicone-mould-for-soft-plastics/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/silicone-mould-for-soft-plastics/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index e3cb02f6c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/silicone-mould-for-soft-plastics/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Silicone Mould for Soft Plastics - - -This tutorial will show you how to cast an object in silicone to use with soft plastics. Casting with silicone will allow you to remake intricate, delicate or unusual objects in plastic. - -You can get as experimental as you wish casting simples items such as a vase or something as extreme as a tree! Don’t worry you will be able to use this mould over and over again. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/silicone-mould-for-soft-plastics/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/silicone-mould-for-soft-plastics/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 11cc8a5ab..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/silicone-mould-for-soft-plastics/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,15 +0,0 @@ -### Gathering the tools - - Before we begin make sure you have the right tools. - -You will need: -Casting silicone (equal part 1:1) -Measuring jug -Plastic stirrer -Take-away container (recycled of course!) -Clay -Knife -Your chosen object - -For this tutorial I have used 500ml of silicone for an object which measures (h)10x(w)2.5x(l)3cm. -Make sure you have a clean work space and all your tools are ready. Silicone sets fast and can be costly to waste \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/skate-rails-how-2-make--use-recycled-skate-rails/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/skate-rails-how-2-make--use-recycled-skate-rails/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index d37cd0e3c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/skate-rails-how-2-make--use-recycled-skate-rails/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### SKATE RAILS: how 2 make / use recycled skate rails - - -Deck rails have been used by skateboarders since the 80’s to (1) help boards slide better on handrails, coping, curbs, etc., and (2) to protect board graphics. These recycled rails succeed at both of those things, but offer something that skateboarding has never seen before: a set of deck rails that is made from 100% post-consumer waste. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/skate-rails-how-2-make--use-recycled-skate-rails/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/skate-rails-how-2-make--use-recycled-skate-rails/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index b662eaa5b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/skate-rails-how-2-make--use-recycled-skate-rails/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Order / Make the Mold - - You can buy my mold, or my mold design from the precious plastic bazar or my website (links below), or design a version yourself. -(with anything Precious Plastic related that sells on my website, I donate 5% of the sales to https://preciousplastic.com/support) - -https://bazar.preciousplastic.com/precious-plastic-sgv/ -https://skatehyena.com/ \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/skate-rails-how-2-make--use-recycled-skate-rails/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/skate-rails-how-2-make--use-recycled-skate-rails/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8f975cda7..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/skate-rails-how-2-make--use-recycled-skate-rails/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Having the Mold Made! - - If you buy my mold, then you’ll receive it in about 4 weeks. - -If you buy my mold design (or design it yourself), then you’ll have the digital file, but you’ll still need to have the mold made, which leaves two options: - - Make it yourself - - Send the file to someone to make the mold: - - Your local CNC machinist - - Whoever is the most local mold maker to you on the Precious Plastic Bazar diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/skate-rails-how-2-make--use-recycled-skate-rails/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/skate-rails-how-2-make--use-recycled-skate-rails/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 45ded9beb..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/skate-rails-how-2-make--use-recycled-skate-rails/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Reycled Used Plastic - - Collect used plastic to shred and shred it, or buy pre-shredded plastic: - -https://bazar.preciousplastic.com/machines/shredder/ -https://bazar.preciousplastic.com/raw-material/plastic/ - -(I’ve found that type #2 HDPE has worked best for me for durability and boardsliding, but I’d love to hear what other people find if another plastic type works better/differently for them) diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/skate-rails-how-2-make--use-recycled-skate-rails/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/skate-rails-how-2-make--use-recycled-skate-rails/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 3df8735da..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/skate-rails-how-2-make--use-recycled-skate-rails/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Get Injection Machine - - Buy or build an injection machine - -https://bazar.preciousplastic.com/machines/injection/ -https://youtu.be/qtZv96ciFIU - -(also, I realize that an extruder might be a better Precious Plastic machine for this product. That said, I can’t afford an extruder, so I’ve been using the V3 injection machine. I’d love to hear any feedback if someone out there makes these rails with an extruder.) diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/skate-rails-how-2-make--use-recycled-skate-rails/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/skate-rails-how-2-make--use-recycled-skate-rails/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index bdb2fab7f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/skate-rails-how-2-make--use-recycled-skate-rails/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Plastic Education! - - Learn how to use your new injection machine and mold and get a crash course on plastics (link below). When going through all of this educational info, if you have any questions feel free to email me at preciousplasticpasadena@gmail.com - -https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/ \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/skate-rails-how-2-make--use-recycled-skate-rails/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/skate-rails-how-2-make--use-recycled-skate-rails/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index a16edf32b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/skate-rails-how-2-make--use-recycled-skate-rails/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Inject! - - I've been using the Precious Plastic V3 injection machine with a carjack (because the mold is too wide to screw onto the injection machine all the way). See link below for Precious Plastic's How-To for using the V3 injection machine. - -The rail mold takes about 80 grams of molten plastic (this varies depending on the plastic type), so you'll end up using about 80% of the plastic from an injection machine that's been filled to the brim. - -I also pre-heat the mold for 15 minutes at 250°F / 121°C, so that when the molten plastic hits the mold, it's not hitting a lukewarm surface and allows for better melt-flow. - -https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/work-with-the-injection-machine \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/skate-rails-how-2-make--use-recycled-skate-rails/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/skate-rails-how-2-make--use-recycled-skate-rails/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index cf54f2957..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/skate-rails-how-2-make--use-recycled-skate-rails/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Screws! - - After you've made the rails, screws are needed to attach the rails to the bottom of a skateboard. Order screws that fit the rails and work with skateboard decks (this took a lot of trial and error to figure out which screws work best). - -Here's the options I found that work best: - - Order these: https://www.mcmaster.com/91555A101/ - - If you’re not able to order through McMaster, find screws that match the image attached to this step. - -I recommend using a plain non-powered phillips head screwdriver to screw the rails onto a board and not strip out the wood. But an electric drill can work if you’re delicate. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/skate-rails-how-2-make--use-recycled-skate-rails/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/skate-rails-how-2-make--use-recycled-skate-rails/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index 651716da5..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/skate-rails-how-2-make--use-recycled-skate-rails/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### SKATE & DESTORY - - Make your own recycled rails, and anything else that you can think of to have injection molds made of! And happy recycling! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/small-injection-press-without-welding/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/small-injection-press-without-welding/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index aa58af3e9..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/small-injection-press-without-welding/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Small Injection Press without welding - - -Here w'lle show you how we build this small Injection Press shown on our last "How to" about solar injection - -This small press still a kind of prototype but many people ask us how to build it and here we are ! :) - - -Enjoy and don't hesitate to modifiy it according to your need -You can also eject part stuck in a mold with a 1/2" connector diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/small-injection-press-without-welding/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/small-injection-press-without-welding/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 1f0ee237a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/small-injection-press-without-welding/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,25 +0,0 @@ -### Get everything your need - - Gather everything you need, - -Our goal was to build a small press with standard stuff pipes without need of welding stuff. - -You will need : - -2x Wood block 60x80x190mm (can be adapt) -1x Wood Board 200x300x20mm -1x Car Jack -4x Straight Pipe 1/2"x 160mm -2x Straight Pipe 1/2" x 85mm -4x 90° Pipe 1/2" -2x Double female connector 1/2" -2x Male wall fixation plate -1x T Pipe 1/2" -1x M10 Screw x 140mm -4x Washer M4 -12x Wood Scew 4x60mm -4x Wood Screw 4x100mm - - -Here we join the blueprint for the whole assembly, thanks volks.eco for the 3D model and draw made with Fusion360. - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/small-injection-press-without-welding/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/small-injection-press-without-welding/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index bdb396126..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/small-injection-press-without-welding/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,16 +0,0 @@ -### Build the main wood base - - Here we are - -We start by screwing the two block together with four long screw. - -We cut a 20mm wood board to 200x300mm - -In the middle extremity of every we cut two hole 1/2" pipe to constrain the frame - -Screw the board to the wood block. - -Align everthing - - - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/small-injection-press-without-welding/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/small-injection-press-without-welding/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index b15a266b9..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/small-injection-press-without-welding/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Prepare the Car Jack - - You can use an old or new Hydraulic Car Jack. They are not expensive, easy to find and very powerfull - -Find a way to screw it correctly to the wood board - -We made 4mm hole in the aluminum frame and screw it to the wood board - -Align the center of the piston perfectly in the middle of the frame \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/small-injection-press-without-welding/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/small-injection-press-without-welding/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index e2f8169cd..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/small-injection-press-without-welding/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Prepare the T part - - Here you need to drill a hole in the center of the T connector 1/2" - -I use a 10mm drill bit - -Make your best to drill it in the middle - -Predrill a smaller hole before can help \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/small-injection-press-without-welding/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/small-injection-press-without-welding/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index ddd6ca310..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/small-injection-press-without-welding/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11 +0,0 @@ -### Assemble the main frame - - Here we connect the whole pipe frame together - -Depending of your car jack, you maye adapt the length of the pipe - -You should bearly touch the T part when the car jack is fully extended - -Center everythin correctly and screw the main frame pipe to the wood block - -If you made it correctly, everthything shouldn't move and the pipe frame \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/small-injection-press-without-welding/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/small-injection-press-without-welding/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index e6b98ff02..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/small-injection-press-without-welding/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,20 +0,0 @@ -### Put the piston in it - - Find the right M10 Screw to make the piston -Long inoff to inject the whole contenant inside the cartridge. -Have a look before if the head can go inside the pipe -Inox steel is less resistant to bending. Juste have that in mind - -You are ready to go ! - -Be carefull, an Hydraulic Car Jack have a lot of strenght - - -Now you are ready to inject small plastic part pre-heated in a 1/2" iron cartridge pipe everywhere without electricity - - - - - -Thanks Marco from volks.eco for the 3D model and the blueprint and everybody have vote for us last years - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/solar-plastic-injection-/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/solar-plastic-injection-/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 528bfddee..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/solar-plastic-injection-/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Solar Plastic Injection - - -Today volks.eco and PlastOK are proud to share with you a solution to inject some precious plastic parts using only solar and human power. -We believe this method will spread further the precious plastic concept and increase the potential use of plastic waste anywhere in the world. -This is our first step in the solar precious plastic experience. -Don’t forget your sunscreen, sunglasses and enjoy ! - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/solar-plastic-injection-/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/solar-plastic-injection-/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 5e37025e7..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/solar-plastic-injection-/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,14 +0,0 @@ -### Prepare the setup - - You need : - -- volks.eco solar concentrator -- Hydraulic Jack press -- Cartridge made with a plumbing pipe -- Shredded HDPE -- Injection mold -- Cup of water -- Oven gloves -- Clamp - -Find a sunny place and preheat the solar tube concentrator \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/solar-plastic-injection-/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/solar-plastic-injection-/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index fb733d78e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/solar-plastic-injection-/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Load the cartridge - - Load the shredded plastic inside the iron cartridge. - -Compress as much as you can the needed amount of plastic depending on the volume of your part, inside the cartridge. - -Lock the plumbing pipe with ½" of cap ends. - -Load the cartridge inside the solar concentrator. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/solar-plastic-injection-/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/solar-plastic-injection-/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7a75a559d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/solar-plastic-injection-/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11 +0,0 @@ -### Heating the Cartridge - - Wait the time necessary depending on the sunlight exposure (between 30 and 60 min). - -You can load several iron cartridge inside the solar concentrator to speed up the process. - -Use a temp prob inside of the heated tube to manage the temperature of the cartridge. - -The concentrator can heat up between 180-250°C. - -There is a lot to learn with this method and a lot of inputs to bring on the table. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/solar-plastic-injection-/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/solar-plastic-injection-/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 5f85c6624..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/solar-plastic-injection-/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,12 +0,0 @@ -### Screw cartridge & mold - - The cartridge will be really hot, USE GLOVES ! - -Remove the two cap ends of the hot cartridge. - -Plunge one extremity of the tube in the cup of water. - -By putting the end of the tube in the water, you will make a hard plastic piece that will push the melted plastic inside of the mold. - -NB : Preheating the mold above 60°C helps a lot to obtain a nice finished part. -The preheating is easily achieved by putting the mold a few minutes in the solar concentrator. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/solar-plastic-injection-/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/solar-plastic-injection-/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index d08b70fa1..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/solar-plastic-injection-/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Inject manually - - Inject the plastic inside the mold, the quicker you can, the better it is. - -We will share how to build our portable hydraulic jack press next time. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/solar-plastic-injection-/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/solar-plastic-injection-/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index ccd58f6cd..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/solar-plastic-injection-/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11 +0,0 @@ -### Extract the injected part - - Be sure to have cooled down the mold (if needed you can put it in cold water) before extracting your injected part. - -Now you have a nicely injected finished part made only with human and solar power ! - -Mechanical improvement has to be made with the mold for the extraction, it's just a prototype for this proof of concept - - - - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/solar-plastic-injection-/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/solar-plastic-injection-/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index 287f3f00e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/solar-plastic-injection-/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,15 +0,0 @@ -### Recap - - This video shows the whole process and the time expected for every step. (It works, but we can improve it). - -The solar concentrator is a solution that doesn't need any electricity. - -You can setup this everywhere (beach, mountain, city) in any season, you just need a little bit of sun. - -If you are interested in the solar concentrator, feel free to visit volks.eco and contact my friend Marco. - -He has been working on this nice solar concentrator for a long time now, and it can be used in so much other ways. - -I hope you find your way with it and that it will open doors on the potential of solar energy for plastic recycling. - -Thanks Marco for your input and Precious Plastic for all ! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/solar-powered-shredder/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/solar-powered-shredder/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8a2f768d3..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/solar-powered-shredder/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Solar powered shredder - - -We developed a Shredding machine powered by solar energy using a twin shaft shredder box from the precious plastic bazar. In order to keep the power consumption very low and maintaining a high torque we chose a stepper motor with a planetary gear. We are happy to share detailed information upon request. If you are interested in constructing a solar shredder yourself don´t hesitate to ask to make the idea grow. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/solar-powered-shredder/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/solar-powered-shredder/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 6f6c38d2c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/solar-powered-shredder/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Design and manufacturing of mechanical parts - - Stepper Motor (Nema 34), high efficient planetary gear and shredderbox were mounted on an iron frame and connected to each other. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/solar-powered-shredder/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/solar-powered-shredder/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 99882a0c8..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/solar-powered-shredder/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Designing and manufacturing of the electronics - - Curcuit and controls for the stepper motor were realized with an arduino uno and assembled as can be seen in the pictures. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/solar-powered-shredder/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/solar-powered-shredder/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index b8cb69e4f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/solar-powered-shredder/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Installation of a DC photovoltaik system - - Installation of solar modules, charge control and batteries. Setting up the different parts, the shredder was tested und is functional. Implementing saftey measures and instructing the staff. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/sparkliv---how-it-all-started/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/sparkliv---how-it-all-started/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 39ea0411e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/sparkliv---how-it-all-started/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### SparkLiv - How it all started - - -SparkLiv has been scoping Plastic Recycling for last few months. After lots of discussions, research and hard work we have finally build our products and launched it in the market. Sharing our journey through this video. -Since we are based in Northern part of India, this video is in Hindi language with English subtitles. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/sparkliv---how-it-all-started/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/sparkliv---how-it-all-started/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2391655a2..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/sparkliv---how-it-all-started/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Create Workspace, spreading awareness, collecting - - How it all started. Our journey started with Precious Plastic starter kits. And today we have already launched the products in the markets. -Happy to work for the health of the Planet \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/sparkliv---how-it-all-started/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/sparkliv---how-it-all-started/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index e555ec21d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/sparkliv---how-it-all-started/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Created drop off, Sorted plastic waste, extruded - - We sorted all the waste collected and extruded into beams \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/sparkliv---how-it-all-started/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/sparkliv---how-it-all-started/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 015a782b0..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/sparkliv---how-it-all-started/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Built furniture and home decor items - - Created a website and social media accounts. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/spr---23/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/spr---23/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index ffe6080ca..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/spr---23/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### SPR - 2.3 - - -The Sheetpress presses plastic into recycled sheets. This machine can make multiple sheets per day, recycling up to 50kg of plastic per sheet. - -This model of the Sheet Press System (2.3) solves 3 main problems: Safety, transportability and standard sheets dimensions. How? By following the CE safety requirements (European standards), designing it to be easily disassembled to be flat packed and having bigger heating beds to make 1.2 x 1.2 m sheets. - -In this how-to you'll find the download files and the requirements to build and run this machine yourself :) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/spr---23/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/spr---23/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7225a379e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/spr---23/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,13 +0,0 @@ -### Download package - - First off, click onthe Download link above to go to all the files for this machine! - -In this folder you will find: -- 3D CAD (.step and .f3d) -- Lasercut files (.dxf) -- Blueprints (.pdf) -- Schematics -- BOM -.. and more :) - -You can see a preview of all the files (in case you are just curious 👀) and you'll also be able to download them for manufacturing 🔧 \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/spr---23/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/spr---23/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9f40c565a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/spr---23/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,22 +0,0 @@ -### Build - - There are a few required skills and machinery you'll need to have if you’re building this machine yourself, or for the machine builder if you are asking someone else to build it for you: - -- General metalworking (cutting, drilling) -- Welding -- Turning (machining on a lathe) -- Milling (machining on a mill) -- Laser cutting -- General electrical work (wiring safety switch, temperature controllers…) -- Motor electrical work (wiring motor, contactor, overload protection…) -- Programming (PID, VFD…) -- Advanced assembly work (require specific tools, measurement instruments and tolerances knowledge to align and assemble) -- Pneumatic -- Hydraulic -- Painting - -âš™ï¸ Machinery / specific tools needed: -- Grinder, chop saw, MIG/MAG or TIG, drill press -- Lathe and milling machine (can be manual) -- Laser cutting (this can easily be subcontracted around the world) -- Torque wrench and bearing mounting tool \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/spr---23/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/spr---23/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 3ff9ba848..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/spr---23/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,17 +0,0 @@ -### Run, Maintain, Create and Sell :) - - READY TO PRESS? -To run and maintain this machine properly and safely, make sure to have a look at its MANUAL: -👉 https://workbench.grabcad.com/workbench/projects/gcoOzUR45YjS8nheWcnPTh7g7CSR8DQFsMzbtCoFO9BukH#/space/gcyBbvO9Vb2raw0PSAmtFJ_XrYPIbvrO6c1Pm5yxp0tjuc/link/3345364 - -Start creating! -This machine creates sheets up to 1.2x1.2 meter with thicknesses between 1-50mm. When making a sheet mould there are many different configurations of size, thickness and surface finish. -Have a look at the How-to's to find inspiration for sheet moulds or products: -👉 https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to?tags=YXc8el2d9DcvQBwgz3o6 - -Buy and sell on the Bazar! -On the Precious Plastic Bazar you can buy moulds or machine parts for this machine - or sell your own creations and machines! -👉 bazar.preciousplastic.com - -Happy melting! 🤗 - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/square-lamp-from-injection-and-plastic-sheet/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/square-lamp-from-injection-and-plastic-sheet/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index b7c32ddd9..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/square-lamp-from-injection-and-plastic-sheet/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Square lamp from injection and plastic sheet - - -In this tutorial you will learn how to create a lamp from a small plastic sheet, round injections and injections ! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/square-lamp-from-injection-and-plastic-sheet/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/square-lamp-from-injection-and-plastic-sheet/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 447a7e768..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/square-lamp-from-injection-and-plastic-sheet/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Cut and sand down - - First, cut the basement with a jigsaw. You can find the file of the plane above 👆. You can sand down it. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/square-lamp-from-injection-and-plastic-sheet/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/square-lamp-from-injection-and-plastic-sheet/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 15c0b12f9..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/square-lamp-from-injection-and-plastic-sheet/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Crate the lampshade - - Secondly, prepare the injected pieces for the lampshade : cut the excess plastic and sand down it. -Sand down the pieces if they need it and assemble ! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/square-lamp-from-injection-and-plastic-sheet/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/square-lamp-from-injection-and-plastic-sheet/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 36e17a330..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/square-lamp-from-injection-and-plastic-sheet/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Assemble the basement with the - - Fold the sheet with a folding machine. Drill and make a slot in a round extrusion and assemble it with the basement. -Assemble the lampshade with the basement using clamps and two extruded plastic trunnions. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/square-lamp-from-injection-and-plastic-sheet/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/square-lamp-from-injection-and-plastic-sheet/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 6814dafc1..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/square-lamp-from-injection-and-plastic-sheet/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Put the bulb ! - - Put the bulb on the lampshade and turn on the light ! - -TIPS : we decided to add some PET thread to consolidate the structure of the lampshade and we heated it slowly with a heat gun. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/square-table/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/square-table/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 102c0cbb2..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/square-table/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Square table - - -In this tutorial you will learn how to make a simple table from round extrusions and a compressed plastic sheet. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/square-table/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/square-table/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 987e6c4e2..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/square-table/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,13 +0,0 @@ -### Cut the beams and the sheet - - To create a bench you have to cut the beams and the sheet : - -- round extrusions : -- 700x29 mm (x2) -- 700x22 mm (x2) - -- square extrusions ( 34 mm ) -- 760 mm (x4) - -- sheet ( 12 mm ) -- 730 mm square (x1) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/square-table/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/square-table/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 0b66d42b8..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/square-table/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Drill holes - - Then, you have to drill holes on the tope of each square beams, and two holes on the length ( 29 and 22 mm diameter ). -Next, dig a square with a ripper on each corner of the sheet, from 30 mm from the edges. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/square-table/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/square-table/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9ba057149..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/square-table/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Assembling - - Finally, you just have to assemble the structure ( the feet doesn't need screws ). To assemble the sheet and the feet, use a flat screw. - -Good job !! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/stackable-rackable-storage/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/stackable-rackable-storage/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index b54cad00c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/stackable-rackable-storage/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Stackable, rackable storage. - - -Make the most of your space by learning how to build an efficient storage rack system that is cheap, easily constructed, and adaptable for every workspace. - -Only a few basic tools and skills required. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/stackable-rackable-storage/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/stackable-rackable-storage/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9d22567ec..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/stackable-rackable-storage/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Choose your container. - - Pick a container to use in your storage rack, ideally these are easy for you to get and are the same shape/size. Make sure your chosen container is strong enough to hold whatever you plan to store, for example softer materials like cardboard are not well suited to storing heavy/sharp tools or metal. - -We are wanting to store lots of plastic so have chosen cardboard banana boxes as they have good capacity, are easy to get and are quite strong. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/stackable-rackable-storage/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/stackable-rackable-storage/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9004a9d79..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/stackable-rackable-storage/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Plan your rack. - - Measure the space you are planning to put your storage rack in, work out how tall and wide you want your rack to be and how many containers you will fit in this space. Set aside material to make your rack with – this can be metal, wood, recycled plastic beams (bonus points) or whatever else you have. - -Our space will fit a rack 2 boxes wide and 8 boxes tall and we will make it out of some spare pieces of wood – some of this is from pallets. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/stackable-rackable-storage/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/stackable-rackable-storage/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index c484eccf9..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/stackable-rackable-storage/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Measure and cut. - - You will need 3 different cuts of material to construct your storage rack: vertical beams, horizontal supports and “drawer slidesâ€. The vertical beams need to be strong, especially if your rack is tall and holds heavy things. The horizontal beams can be made from mostly anything. The draw slides should be thick enough to support your container, and you will need a lot of these - 2 for each container. With measurements and cuts it is important to give enough tolerance for easy sliding of your “drawers†(containers), but not too much. - -For our rack we cut 6 vertical beams, 6 horizontal support pieces, and 32 drawer slides. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/stackable-rackable-storage/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/stackable-rackable-storage/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 45fc08f95..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/stackable-rackable-storage/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Assemble vertical supports. - - Carefully measuring out the spaces, secure all of your drawer slides to the vertical beams. Beams at each end of the rack will only need slides on one side. This is a good time to make sure your containers fit snugly but goes in smoothly between your slides. - -As we are using wood for our rack, slides can simply be screwed in place after drilling countersunk holes. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/stackable-rackable-storage/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/stackable-rackable-storage/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 26bc050fd..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/stackable-rackable-storage/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Add horizontal supports. - - Secure the horizontal supports to the back of your storage rack. At this point the rack builds to its full size, so you may need to do this step inside your space if you don’t have enough room to move the rack there afterwards. For best results stand the beams upright and get a friend :) to help hold everything steady. Clamps are also helpful to hold material in place while you attach it. - -Our rack is quite tall and would have been a little unstable with only 6 horizontal supports. In the pictures you can see we added some extra pieces (spare drawer slides) across the front as additional horizontal support. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/stackable-rackable-storage/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/stackable-rackable-storage/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index d480e4f4e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/stackable-rackable-storage/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Finishing touches. - - Move your rack into position and check that it fits the space. Unless your rack perfectly fits the space vertically, you will have a little bit of extra room at the top of the rack. Here you can make a small platform/shelf to further maximise your storage space. If you’d like to paint/decorate your rack now is a good time. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/stackable-rackable-storage/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/stackable-rackable-storage/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index 166988969..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/stackable-rackable-storage/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### All done! 😊 - - Slide containers in and your storage rack is all ready to go! It’s easy to build a rack on top of existing storage (like our 5x6 rack in the cover photo) or expand your rack over time if you want to make them wider/taller. You can really make the most of the height of your space with these racks - ours is built right to the ceiling! Our 2x8 rack took most of the day to build with moderate building experience. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/stamp-products-fast-without-heating/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/stamp-products-fast-without-heating/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 1ef9d8054..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/stamp-products-fast-without-heating/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Stamp products fast. Without heating - - -We will show you how you can stamp the products you made in a fast efficient way. The main benefit is that it doesn’t require heating so you have no heatup/cooldown times. This is good for bigger productions and just saves energy :) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/stamp-products-fast-without-heating/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/stamp-products-fast-without-heating/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index c7e052966..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/stamp-products-fast-without-heating/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Get a product - - First you need to have a product. We work with sheets and cut them with CNC to make products. We only tried this technique with PP and HDPE. So let’s met show you how we stamp them. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/stamp-products-fast-without-heating/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/stamp-products-fast-without-heating/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index c78c5b3ff..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/stamp-products-fast-without-heating/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Make your stamp - - Make a design for your stamp and mill it in metal. We made ours from brass, but I guess other metals would work as well. Tip: make sure to mirror your design \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/stamp-products-fast-without-heating/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/stamp-products-fast-without-heating/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8f78c4a61..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/stamp-products-fast-without-heating/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Press - - For pressing we like to use arbor press. It works fast and are easy to use/find. Put the product underneath apply some fore and take it out. You can get really fast here \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/stamp-products-fast-without-heating/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/stamp-products-fast-without-heating/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index bb1adc5ff..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/stamp-products-fast-without-heating/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Use mould for alignment - - We like it when things are consistent. So we use a little mould to put in our product to make sure we always stamp in the same place. This actually also makes sure the product doesn’t move when applying force. Not a must, but would highly recommend \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/stamp-products-fast-without-heating/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/stamp-products-fast-without-heating/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8927e9c02..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/stamp-products-fast-without-heating/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Ready! - - Here you can see a few products we stamped. We made one stamp for our logo and one for the type of plastic. -Have fun making yours! :) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8771fd1ba..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### A - - A \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8771fd1ba..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### A - - A \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8771fd1ba..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### A - - A \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/storage-of-shredded-plastic/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/storage-of-shredded-plastic/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 3e6db7816..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/storage-of-shredded-plastic/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Storage of shredded plastic - - -There are various options for how to store shredded plastic. If you have large volumes of material, then most likely you will be suitable for industrial containers. But if you have a small workshop, then in my opinion it’s very convenient to store plastic in 19 liter water bottles. - - -Zip is here: http://tiny.cc/679fiz (Universe site allow only small zips up to 5Mb) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/storage-of-shredded-plastic/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/storage-of-shredded-plastic/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index e11ec6825..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/storage-of-shredded-plastic/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Shredding - - Here you have several options: -1) to grind plastic manually with a hand tool; -2) to grind plastic with a shredder or crusher; -3) to buy already crushed or granulated raw materials. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/storage-of-shredded-plastic/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/storage-of-shredded-plastic/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 0a04c3023..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/storage-of-shredded-plastic/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### 19L bottles - - A 19 liter water bottle can be a good container for storing material. -Of the pluses, it can be noted: it is lightweight, it is transparent, available worldwide. -One of the disadvantages is that you may encounter a problem of static electricity. - -These bottles can be made of PET or PC (Polycarbonate). PC bottles are preferable, as they usually have a handle on the body. -There are also special racks for storing bottles, they are very simple in design (but this is the topic for the next how-to) - - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/storage-of-shredded-plastic/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/storage-of-shredded-plastic/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 3c95a5f19..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/storage-of-shredded-plastic/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### How to use - - In order to pour the material into the bottle, you will need a funnel (which can also be made from an extra bottle). To prevent the ingress of dust, the neck of the bottle should be covered. The easiest (not the best) way is simply to seal the bottle neck with masking tape. Yes, this will protect against dust, but the material inside will not be ventilated (and may appear mildew if there is moisture inside). It is also inconvenient to open and close the bottle, you will have to change the tape often. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/storage-of-shredded-plastic/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/storage-of-shredded-plastic/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index c9b119e77..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/storage-of-shredded-plastic/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Bottle lids - - To solve this problem, I suggest using special covers with ventilation holes. They protect the material from dust, but the plastic inside can be ventilated. On the top lid there is a plastic type designation. Below the inner surface, the outer diameter is indicated. -Yes, this is another problem, even if we take bottles from the same manufacturer, from batch to batch the diameter of the neck will differ (in my practice, this value varies from 45.75 mm to 47.75 mm). - -In the attachment you will find link for files for different types of plastic and different sizes (in formats: f3d and step). \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/storage-of-shredded-plastic/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/storage-of-shredded-plastic/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 581607ffd..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/storage-of-shredded-plastic/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### How it's look like - - The lid must be printed upside down, without supports. -Tip: you can use different filament colors for each type of plastic (in my case, gray for HDPE, black for PS, orange for PP) this is convenient for finding the right plastic on the shelf. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/sun-concentrator-for-plastic-injection/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/sun-concentrator-for-plastic-injection/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4860f51d2..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/sun-concentrator-for-plastic-injection/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Sun Concentrator for Plastic Injection - - -In order to provide you with energy independence in terms of heating, volks.eco offers you a solar and portable solution reaching up to 250 ° C (482 ° F). This device is intended for the production of recycled plastic injections, according to the project carried out in collaboration and presented by Plastok.ch. [https://www.instructables.com/id/Solar-Plastic-Injection] - -3D Model : https://a360.co/ \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/sun-concentrator-for-plastic-injection/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/sun-concentrator-for-plastic-injection/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 6c5d37fa0..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/sun-concentrator-for-plastic-injection/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Step 1 : Cut the Wooden Planks - - Cut wooden planks 12 millimeters thick, according to the dimensions indicated in the attached file. [mm] \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/sun-concentrator-for-plastic-injection/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/sun-concentrator-for-plastic-injection/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 733a55707..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/sun-concentrator-for-plastic-injection/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Step 2 : Cut the Mirrors - - Cut the mirrors 4 millimeters thick, according to the dimensions indicated in the attached file. [mm] \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/sun-concentrator-for-plastic-injection/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/sun-concentrator-for-plastic-injection/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 67262b520..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/sun-concentrator-for-plastic-injection/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Step 3 : Cut the Double Tape - - Cut 6 double tape strips of 500 millimeters. If possible use a outdoor double tape \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/sun-concentrator-for-plastic-melting/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/sun-concentrator-for-plastic-melting/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index ed4e4b649..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/sun-concentrator-for-plastic-melting/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Sun Concentrator for plastic melting - - -In order to provide you with energy independence, volks.eco offers you a solar and portable solution reaching up to 250 ° C (482 ° F). This device is intended for the production of recycled plastic injections, according to the project carried out in collaboration and presented by Plastok.ch. [https://www.instructables.com/id/Solar-Plastic-Injection] -3D Model : https://a360.co/3ilST2c \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/sun-concentrator-for-plastic-melting/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/sun-concentrator-for-plastic-melting/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 5600749f6..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/sun-concentrator-for-plastic-melting/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Cut the Wooden Planks - - Cut wooden planks 12 millimeters thick, according to the dimensions indicated in the attached file. [mm] \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/sun-concentrator-for-solar-plastic-melting/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/sun-concentrator-for-solar-plastic-melting/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index cd0066195..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/sun-concentrator-for-solar-plastic-melting/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Sun Concentrator for Solar plastic melting - - -In order to provide you with energy independence, volks.eco offers you a solar and portable solution reaching up to 250 ° C (482 ° F). This device is intended for the production of recycled plastic injections, according to the project carried out in collaboration and presented by Plastok.ch. [https://www.instructables.com/id/Solar-Plastic-Injection] -3D Model : https://a360.co/3ilST2c \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/sun-concentrator-for-solar-plastic-melting/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/sun-concentrator-for-solar-plastic-melting/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 5600749f6..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/sun-concentrator-for-solar-plastic-melting/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Cut the Wooden Planks - - Cut wooden planks 12 millimeters thick, according to the dimensions indicated in the attached file. [mm] \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/sun-concentrator-for-solar-plastic-melting/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/sun-concentrator-for-solar-plastic-melting/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 6dc059c36..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/sun-concentrator-for-solar-plastic-melting/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Cut the Mirrors - - Cut the mirrors 4 millimeters thick, according to the dimensions indicated in the attached file. [mm] \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/sun-concentrator-for-solar-plastic-melting/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/sun-concentrator-for-solar-plastic-melting/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 0d192bd4f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/sun-concentrator-for-solar-plastic-melting/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Cut the Double Tape - - Cut 6 double tape strips of 500 millimeters. If possible use a outdoor double tape \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/sun-concentrator-for-solar-plastic-melting/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/sun-concentrator-for-solar-plastic-melting/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 84894a9fb..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/sun-concentrator-for-solar-plastic-melting/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Assemble mirrors and planks - - Assemble the mirrors and the wooden planks with double-sided tape according to the attached image. Please note the shutters are asymmetrical \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/sun-concentrator-for-solar-plastic-melting/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/sun-concentrator-for-solar-plastic-melting/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 65b30eec3..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/sun-concentrator-for-solar-plastic-melting/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### 3D Print concentrator Holders - - Print the attached 3D files, preferably in ABS - -Use this link to download the 3D files : https://a360.co/3ilST2c - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/sun-concentrator-for-solar-plastic-melting/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/sun-concentrator-for-solar-plastic-melting/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 95d5cff19..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/sun-concentrator-for-solar-plastic-melting/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Assemble the Sun Collector - - The sun collector made is made of tempered glass and can provide temperatures above 250°C - -To fixe the tube tighten the screws of the 3D printed front holder - -The overall size is 660 mm (overall) X 127mm outside diameter. The approximate interior dimensions are: 584 mm X 101mm inner diameter. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/sun-concentrator-for-solar-plastic-melting/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/sun-concentrator-for-solar-plastic-melting/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index ad5344843..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/sun-concentrator-for-solar-plastic-melting/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Assemble all pieces - - Assemble all components with wood screws and 2 3D print filaments. - -To assemble the shutters, first drill the hole for the screws to have a pivot effect. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/sun-concentrator-for-solar-plastic-melting/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/sun-concentrator-for-solar-plastic-melting/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index 53f61a319..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/sun-concentrator-for-solar-plastic-melting/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Use the sun concentror - - To use the solar concentrator, it is advisable to use temperature probes. -The concentrator should be placed with the solar collector perpendicular to the sun light (12h - south). -The shutters should be adjusted so that the maximum light is projected onto the collector, as shown in the picture. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/sun-concentrator-for-solar-plastic-melting/step_8.md b/resources/howtos-oa/sun-concentrator-for-solar-plastic-melting/step_8.md deleted file mode 100644 index 58bc3b9bb..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/sun-concentrator-for-solar-plastic-melting/step_8.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Solar Plastic Injection - - Time to melt some plastic! -Have a look at this How-to to learn more about the Solar Injection Process :) - -https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/solar-plastic-injection- \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/sun-concentrator-to-melt-plastic-with-solar/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/sun-concentrator-to-melt-plastic-with-solar/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index b26b9d21c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/sun-concentrator-to-melt-plastic-with-solar/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Sun Concentrator to melt plastic with solar - - -In order to provide you with energy independence, volks.eco offers you a solar and portable solution reaching up to 250 ° C (482 ° F). This device is intended for the production of recycled plastic injections, according to the project carried out in collaboration and presented by Plastok.ch. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/sun-concentrator-to-melt-plastic-with-solar/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/sun-concentrator-to-melt-plastic-with-solar/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 5600749f6..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/sun-concentrator-to-melt-plastic-with-solar/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Cut the Wooden Planks - - Cut wooden planks 12 millimeters thick, according to the dimensions indicated in the attached file. [mm] \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/sun-concentrator-to-melt-plastic-with-solar/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/sun-concentrator-to-melt-plastic-with-solar/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 6dc059c36..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/sun-concentrator-to-melt-plastic-with-solar/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Cut the Mirrors - - Cut the mirrors 4 millimeters thick, according to the dimensions indicated in the attached file. [mm] \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/sun-concentrator-to-melt-plastic-with-solar/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/sun-concentrator-to-melt-plastic-with-solar/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 0d192bd4f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/sun-concentrator-to-melt-plastic-with-solar/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Cut the Double Tape - - Cut 6 double tape strips of 500 millimeters. If possible use a outdoor double tape \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/sun-concentrator-to-melt-plastic-with-solar/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/sun-concentrator-to-melt-plastic-with-solar/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 84894a9fb..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/sun-concentrator-to-melt-plastic-with-solar/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Assemble mirrors and planks - - Assemble the mirrors and the wooden planks with double-sided tape according to the attached image. Please note the shutters are asymmetrical \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/sun-concentrator-to-melt-plastic-with-solar/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/sun-concentrator-to-melt-plastic-with-solar/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 65b30eec3..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/sun-concentrator-to-melt-plastic-with-solar/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### 3D Print concentrator Holders - - Print the attached 3D files, preferably in ABS - -Use this link to download the 3D files : https://a360.co/3ilST2c - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/sun-concentrator-to-melt-plastic-with-solar/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/sun-concentrator-to-melt-plastic-with-solar/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index c2395323a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/sun-concentrator-to-melt-plastic-with-solar/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Assemble the Sun Collector - - The sun collector made is made of tempered glass and can provide temperatures above 250°C - -To fixe the tube tighten the screws of the 3D printed front holder - -The overall size is 660 mm (overall) X 127mm outside diameter. The approximate interior dimensions are: 584 mm X 101mm inner diameter. - -Available on : https://www.volks.eco/produit/sun-collector/ \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/sun-concentrator-to-melt-plastic-with-solar/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/sun-concentrator-to-melt-plastic-with-solar/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index ad5344843..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/sun-concentrator-to-melt-plastic-with-solar/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Assemble all pieces - - Assemble all components with wood screws and 2 3D print filaments. - -To assemble the shutters, first drill the hole for the screws to have a pivot effect. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/sun-concentrator-to-melt-plastic-with-solar/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/sun-concentrator-to-melt-plastic-with-solar/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index 53f61a319..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/sun-concentrator-to-melt-plastic-with-solar/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Use the sun concentror - - To use the solar concentrator, it is advisable to use temperature probes. -The concentrator should be placed with the solar collector perpendicular to the sun light (12h - south). -The shutters should be adjusted so that the maximum light is projected onto the collector, as shown in the picture. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/sun-concentrator-to-melt-plastic-with-solar/step_8.md b/resources/howtos-oa/sun-concentrator-to-melt-plastic-with-solar/step_8.md deleted file mode 100644 index 58bc3b9bb..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/sun-concentrator-to-melt-plastic-with-solar/step_8.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Solar Plastic Injection - - Time to melt some plastic! -Have a look at this How-to to learn more about the Solar Injection Process :) - -https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/solar-plastic-injection- \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/surf-fins-mould-36398/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/surf-fins-mould-36398/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 93faf3655..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/surf-fins-mould-36398/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Surf Fins Mould - - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/surf-fins-mould-36398/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/surf-fins-mould-36398/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 765c4796c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/surf-fins-mould-36398/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### - - \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/surf-fins-mould-36398/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/surf-fins-mould-36398/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 765c4796c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/surf-fins-mould-36398/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### - - \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/surf-fins-mould-36398/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/surf-fins-mould-36398/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 765c4796c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/surf-fins-mould-36398/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### - - \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/surf-fins-mould-52397/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/surf-fins-mould-52397/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 427ae28aa..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/surf-fins-mould-52397/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Surf fins Mould - - -Preciós Plàstic València will show you a simple technique to make a mould for producing recycled surf fins. - -This include how to prepare the 2D/3D model for laser cutting, how to inject the plastic waste, and how to finish the product. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/surf-fins-mould-52397/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/surf-fins-mould-52397/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 765c4796c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/surf-fins-mould-52397/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### - - \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/surf-fins-mould-52397/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/surf-fins-mould-52397/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 765c4796c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/surf-fins-mould-52397/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### - - \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/surf-fins-mould-52397/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/surf-fins-mould-52397/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 765c4796c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/surf-fins-mould-52397/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### - - \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/surf-fins-mould/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/surf-fins-mould/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 219640fde..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/surf-fins-mould/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11 +0,0 @@ -### Surf Fins Mould - - -Preciós Plàstic València will show you a simple technique to make a mould for producing recycled surf fins. - -This include how to prepare the 2D/3D model for laser cutting, how to inject the plastic waste, and how to finish the product. - -In this folder you will find: -3D CAD (.step and .f3d) -Laser cut files (.dxf) -Blueprints (.pdf) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/surf-fins-mould/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/surf-fins-mould/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index a05067517..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/surf-fins-mould/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11 +0,0 @@ -### Design mould - - As a first step you have to design the correct dimensions for your fin, your design must meet the requirements of surfboards. - -The most important dimensions are the area that connect the fin with the surfboard, could have dimensional variations. Check the width, height and thickness (thickness comes from the size/thickness of the stainless steel sheet, in our case 6mm). The top and bottom pieces we recommend 10mm thickness. - -You can download the .DXF and the .F3D files, just modify/check these measurements. - -Once you have the correct sizes, then you will need to export each draw (3 in total) in .DXF file format. These files you will need to laser cut in stainless steel, we use a local laser cutting company, because these machines are industrial (the price shouldn't be too expensive). - -Tell the company we need a M8 thread in the middle of the top piece. If they can not do it, you can also weld a M8 nut. This is for connecting the injection nozzle with the mould, check with your machine \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/surf-fins-mould/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/surf-fins-mould/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index def82652d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/surf-fins-mould/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Injection! - - Once you have your laser cutted mould, it's time to fill it with plastic waste! - -You will need seven M8x40 screws (or longer), in order to close the 3 mould layers. -As we commented, we use a M8 nut to connect the mould to the injection machine, you can play with different injection point positions. If you don't have a thread in your injection machine, you can just use the hole/injection point without thread. - -We recommend to use recycled PP, as the PE tends to break easily. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/surf-fins-mould/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/surf-fins-mould/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 5bd00465f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/surf-fins-mould/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Post-processing - - As we are using a laser cutted mould, the edges are straight, so it is not hydrodynamic and could be a problem for surfing. We need to remove these straight edges, so we have to sand it, now the craft comes! - -In order to keep the center line in the middle, and don't deform the verticality, just draw a line across the edge, and an offset perimeter in both faces, to don't remove too much material. We use a rotatory tool, use safety glasses and mask! - -If we wanted to skip this step, we would need a CNC mould, more expensive than this one. But the object will inject with the hydrodynamic shape, without necessity of sanding. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/surf-fins-mould/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/surf-fins-mould/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 05abfed95..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/surf-fins-mould/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Finishing - - You can use a electric sand machine, it will help you to save a lot of time. Starting sanding with big grain to remove a big part (120), then we'll sand with medium grain (320), and for finishing small grain (800). The grain is just a reference, you can try with different grains, even you can polish (grain 3000 or more). - -For finishing, We do a quick heat to improve the surface. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/sustainable-material-piece-of-furniture/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/sustainable-material-piece-of-furniture/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 44a531b1b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/sustainable-material-piece-of-furniture/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Sustainable material piece of furniture - - -Piece of furniture made of BPC Bamboo Plastic Composite panels. a Bench and a Rack made of composite panels with cnc cut. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/sustainable-material-piece-of-furniture/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/sustainable-material-piece-of-furniture/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 3c564f460..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/sustainable-material-piece-of-furniture/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Make the panel - - Prepare the material mold and press the composite into the thermpress, after a few minutes we have a panel. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/sustainable-material-piece-of-furniture/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/sustainable-material-piece-of-furniture/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 37d784ac3..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/sustainable-material-piece-of-furniture/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### MATERIAL COMPOSITE - - Mix the Plastic pieces with the bamboo residues in an extrusor and then pick up parts. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/sustainable-material-piece-of-furniture/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/sustainable-material-piece-of-furniture/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 6dc1d5a56..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/sustainable-material-piece-of-furniture/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### CNC panel to make the bench - - Cut a CNC panel to make the bench, it is a 3 parts bench, after we fix the parts it's quite easy. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/tag-the-collection-bags/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/tag-the-collection-bags/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4ad7fae38..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/tag-the-collection-bags/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Tag the collection bags - - -In this how-to, you will learn how to make tags for your collection bags. The tags are attached to the bags during transport. This way the Shredder Workspace will not confuse the plastic-type waste from the Collection Point. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/tag-the-collection-bags/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/tag-the-collection-bags/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7cf8cb640..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/tag-the-collection-bags/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Choose your stencil technique - - You will need a stencil to create your own tags. The stencil will help you speed up the process. You can make it in many ways, such as using a cardboard box and a knife, a laser-cut machine on wood, a CNC machine on steel or plastic, or even a 3D printer using PLA. Each technique requires different materials, and therefore different costs. - -The best technique is the one you have most easily accessed, is economical and will produce a long-lasting stencil. Cardboard boxes with a cutter are the cheapest option, but it will take a long time to make and the stencil will not last long. We recommend the laser cut on plywood. Ask the nearest FabLab in your area, they can help you :). diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/tag-the-collection-bags/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/tag-the-collection-bags/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2448093cb..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/tag-the-collection-bags/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Download your illustrations - - Above on that beautiful button, you are gonna find the image of the stencil. Send this image to your nearest laser cut machine. Ask for a laser cutting on a plywood 3 mm. - -The dimension of the stencil is 150x150 mm. The red lines on the picture mean cutting and the black one means engraving. - -Or if you want to try to make it by yourself on cardboard print the image on an A4 paper and stick it to the cardboard. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/tag-the-collection-bags/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/tag-the-collection-bags/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9d121338e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/tag-the-collection-bags/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Paint over your outline - - If you order the stencil on a laser cut machine then the result will be perfect. Make sure to sand the plywood and remove the black stain from the laser. - -Your stencil is ready. Now it is time to use it. I recommend a thick marker. Cut through the fabric and attach the stencil. We used a piece of canvas fabric. Use the marker to draw the triangle. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/tag-the-collection-bags/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/tag-the-collection-bags/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 50d5e20fe..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/tag-the-collection-bags/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Draw the number and write your info - - You drew the triangle, now its time for the number. In the stencil, you will find all the recycling numbers made in Precious Plastic font, but you can always make it more personal. Don’t forget to write your Collection Point name! Use the stencil as a ruler if you want to make straight lines. - -Last tip: you can always use different colours if you want to sort your plastic label also by colour. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/tag-the-collection-bags/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/tag-the-collection-bags/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index c56ad118d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/tag-the-collection-bags/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Open a hole and place the string - - Time to open the hole, you can do it easily with a hammer and a thick nail. Now put the string and you are done. Choose a strong string, we used leather. - -You can give your label some love. Sew the ends, iron them and keep them on your hanging board to reuse them again. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/test-/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/test-/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index a7fd8595e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/test-/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Test - - -Test \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/test-/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/test-/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 48f14ec0a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/test-/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Test - - Test \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/test-eva-howto-2/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/test-eva-howto-2/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index df831efa5..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/test-eva-howto-2/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Test eva howto 2 - - -Short description \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/test-eva-howto-2/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/test-eva-howto-2/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 705199172..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/test-eva-howto-2/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Step 1 - - Testing testing testing testing testing testing testing testing testing testing testing testing testing testing testing testing testing \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/test-eva-howto-2/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/test-eva-howto-2/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 70813dd14..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/test-eva-howto-2/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Step 2 - - Testing testing testing testing testing testing testing testing testing testing testing testing testing \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/test-eva-howto-2/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/test-eva-howto-2/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index e0c583772..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/test-eva-howto-2/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Step 3 - - Testing testing testing testing testing testing testing testing testing testing testing testing testing testing \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/test2/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/test2/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2ea5758dc..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/test2/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Test2 - - -Test \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/test2/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/test2/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index f0e3b0613..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/test2/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### TestTest - - TestTestTestTestTestTestTestTestTestTestTestTestTestTestTestTestTestTestTestTestTestTestTestTestTest \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/testetwerdsfsdf/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/testetwerdsfsdf/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 74ec4d0b8..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/testetwerdsfsdf/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### testetwerdsfsdf - - -test with link https://google.es \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/testetwerdsfsdf/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/testetwerdsfsdf/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8ad4ede76..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/testetwerdsfsdf/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Drill the stock - - https://google.es nother link test \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/testt/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/testt/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index e54920e77..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/testt/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Testt - - -Testt \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/testt/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/testt/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 3aaa4b2c8..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/testt/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### TesttTestt - - TesttTesttTesttTesttTesttTesttTesttTesttTesttTesttTesttTesttTesttTesttTesttTesttTesttTesttTesttTestt \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/testt/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/testt/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index be785c360..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/testt/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### TesttTesttTesttTesttTesttTesttTesttTesttTesttTestt - - TesttTesttTesttTesttTesttTesttTesttTesttTesttTesttTesttTesttTesttTesttTesttTesttTesttTesttTesttTestt \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/testt/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/testt/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index be785c360..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/testt/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### TesttTesttTesttTesttTesttTesttTesttTesttTesttTestt - - TesttTesttTesttTesttTesttTesttTesttTesttTesttTesttTesttTesttTesttTesttTesttTesttTesttTesttTesttTestt \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/tips--tricks-for-furniture-development/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/tips--tricks-for-furniture-development/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9788e6ddf..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/tips--tricks-for-furniture-development/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Tips & Tricks for furniture development. - - -Having a smooth and shiny finish is what we all look for. Our goal should be to make recycled plastics look precious so that they can be seen as an attractive and high-quality alternative. - -Here we provide the process we followed to develop an HDPE cradle that transforms into two rocking chairs once it is no longer in use. Tips and tricks are shared to achieve a smooth and shiny finish and hide the screws or fixings as much as possible. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/tips--tricks-for-furniture-development/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/tips--tricks-for-furniture-development/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 66c585e5f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/tips--tricks-for-furniture-development/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### The whole process summarized in a 1-minute video. - - This video shows the process followed for the assembly and final finishing of the cradle. However, the next steps will go over some important facts and the materials and tools that were used. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/tips--tricks-for-furniture-development/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/tips--tricks-for-furniture-development/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4c474cf94..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/tips--tricks-for-furniture-development/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,14 +0,0 @@ -### Sheet manufacturing and CNC parameters. - - All this process was developed by Blue Phoenix Plastic Mexico (https://www.instagram.com/bluephoenixplasticmx/). - -The sheet manufacturing itself requires a special how-to. However, it's worth noting that the manner plastic sheets are made has an impact on the surface finish. Applying a mould release to the steel surface as well as having a polished surface can give a very smooth and nice finish to the plastic sheet with no extra work. - -CNC parameters: - -- Router: Makita 3709 110 V 530 W 30,000 rpm. -- Router Bit: ARMG-808-L Melin Tool (1 Flute, Carbide, Dia: 1/4", LOC: 1-1/4", OAL: 3", Shank: 1/4", Single End, Helix 30°). -- Spindle Speed: 30,000 rpm. -- Cutting Feedrate: 2400 mm/min. -- Plunge Feedrate: 300 mm/min. -- Maximum Roughing Stepdown: 1.2 mm. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/tips--tricks-for-furniture-development/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/tips--tricks-for-furniture-development/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 08f040b90..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/tips--tricks-for-furniture-development/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Achieve a specific and constant thickness. - - When making plastic sheets, it is usual for the thickness of the sheet to vary from batch to batch. The final depth may or may not be relevant, depending on the final product. However, if the design calls for a specific thickness, a wood planner is an option. - -Remember to always save the plastic leftovers as they are already in small particles ready to be recycled for a further project. Nonetheless, for the purpose of this project, the plastic leftovers were used for the next step. - -Hardware: - -Ryobi AP-10 planer. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/tips--tricks-for-furniture-development/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/tips--tricks-for-furniture-development/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 1841e61ea..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/tips--tricks-for-furniture-development/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Repair bubbles or holes inside or on the sheet. - - Even industrial recycled plastic sheet production may have imperfections inside or on the sheet. Luckily, there is always a way to repair and fill them with the same material. - -Use a heat gun or a hair dryer and the leftovers to make a ball a bit bigger than the hole to fill. Pre-heat the area to be filled and, with the help of a flathead screwdriver, start pushing the plastic ball inside the hole (use the heat gun in this process if needed). - -It's best to leave extra material to ensure the hole is completely filled. You can always sand off excess material. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/tips--tricks-for-furniture-development/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/tips--tricks-for-furniture-development/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 023d932fe..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/tips--tricks-for-furniture-development/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### General sanding. - - This process depends on the quality of the HDPE sheet surface. If the surface is not as smooth as desired, you can sand it by hand or with the help of a band sander and/or an orbital sander. Because we used a wood planer to achieve a specific thickness, we got a rough surface and had to start using 220 wet-dry sandpaper. This was the range of grits used: 220, 320, 400, 800, 1200, 2000. - -Something that also works for having a super smooth finish on the edges is using a sand bander with a fully used belt (worn). If you apply force against the used belt while it is rotating, instead of sanding the edge, it is going to start melting the rough edge in such a way that after a couple of seconds you will feel a nice smooth finish (see photos 2 and 3). \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/tips--tricks-for-furniture-development/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/tips--tricks-for-furniture-development/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 5e72438dd..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/tips--tricks-for-furniture-development/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Getting rid of TABS post CNC cutting. - - This step only applies when sheets are cut with CNC leaving TABS that maintain the piece attached to the sheet for transportation. However, this step might also help get a smooth finish on the edges. - -It was used a router at 35,000 rpm and a flush-tipped router bit to get rid of the tabs. This process also helped achieve a super smooth finish on the edges, which can get a bit rough after several passes of the CNC cutting process. - -Hardware: - -- Amana Tool - 47100 Carbide Tipped Flush Trim 3/8" Dia x 1/4" Shank -- Bosch Router Tool, Colt 1-Horsepower 5.6 Amp Electronic Variable-Speed Palm Router PR20EVS \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/tips--tricks-for-furniture-development/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/tips--tricks-for-furniture-development/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index e40ec6d79..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/tips--tricks-for-furniture-development/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Strategic location of screws and fixings. - - The design process should always be the first step. However, as this step is connected to the following, it was decided to be here. - -Hidding screws and fixings is a good idea if you are willing to make your product look like a monolithic item. An important design decision is whether to choose between different screw materials and head types. For the purpose of this furniture, it was decided to use stainless steel flathead socket screws. - -It is worth spending some time thinking through and deciding where to locate the screws so that they are hidden or not visible when the product is in use (as much as possible). In this case, it was decided to divide the sides of the rocking chairs into two profiles so that the structural screws would be hidden by a second profile, which is intended to reinforce the mechanical stresses of the chairs and show a screwless finish from an exterior perspective. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/tips--tricks-for-furniture-development/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/tips--tricks-for-furniture-development/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index 3fe25b228..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/tips--tricks-for-furniture-development/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Screws installation. - - This process can be done by a CNC. However, as we knew that the thickness varies on recycled plastic sheets, it was decided to do it by hand. - -A countersink bit was used to make room for the screw head to be flush (same level as the sheet). \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/tips--tricks-for-furniture-development/step_8.md b/resources/howtos-oa/tips--tricks-for-furniture-development/step_8.md deleted file mode 100644 index 5fae9f89e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/tips--tricks-for-furniture-development/step_8.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Photo shoot. - - A precious plastic product deserves attractive photos so that the community and the people can appreciate the hard work behind it. - -Lighting is by far the most important thing when taking photos, even above the camera's quality.  - -If you have a small product you want to photograph, get a colorful cardboard, look for an outdoor space with good lighting, and take as many photos from different angles as you can. It is better to have options. - -You can see an instagram reel of a photo shoot we did for a screwless plant mould here: https://www.instagram.com/p/CbCgXJClI3f/ \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/trash-printer-flake-extruding-3d-print-head-xxx/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/trash-printer-flake-extruding-3d-print-head-xxx/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2811fb1c3..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/trash-printer-flake-extruding-3d-print-head-xxx/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Trash Printer Flake Extruding 3D Print Head xxx - - -This is a modified extruder design, optimized for large-format 3D printing of recycled Polypropylene, using shredded plastic flakes rather than filament. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/trash-printer-flake-extruding-3d-print-head-xxx/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/trash-printer-flake-extruding-3d-print-head-xxx/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7cc15efbc..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/trash-printer-flake-extruding-3d-print-head-xxx/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Watch the video! - - First, take a look at the build video to get a sense of how things go together! The trash printer extruder head is a modified version of the precious plastic extruder, that integrates a vertical axis and NEMA23 stepper motor, making it easy to control with existing 3D printing software. - -This tutorial covers how build the print head. To get it printing, you'll need to mount it to a CNC gantry that can move it around and run gcode. Here, I'm using the MPCNC LowRider2 gantry designed by V1Engineering. While not technically open-source, the LowRider2 is neat because it is designed around 3D printable parts and commonly available hardware. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/trash-printer-flake-extruding-3d-print-head-xxx/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/trash-printer-flake-extruding-3d-print-head-xxx/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 419019bf4..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/trash-printer-flake-extruding-3d-print-head-xxx/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Acquire the parts! - - These are the parts you'll need to assemble the Trash Printer extruder. Everything listed here should be readily available at local hardware stores, or on Amazon. The estimate cost is $150-$200, and most of that cost is just the motor. Everything else is quite cheap. - -The design is built around a 3" PVC plumbing wye fitting, that acts as a hopper. These are widely available in the United States, I'm not sure if the dimensions are different internationally. If so, the custom parts may need to be modified. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/trash-printer-flake-extruding-3d-print-head-xxx/step_10.md b/resources/howtos-oa/trash-printer-flake-extruding-3d-print-head-xxx/step_10.md deleted file mode 100644 index 332cd5776..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/trash-printer-flake-extruding-3d-print-head-xxx/step_10.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Now Strap it to a Robot! - - Now you'll need to mount the extruder onto an appropriate CNC gantry. That's a whole other project, and it's fairly technical, but I use an MPCNC Low-Rider2, with a RAMBOv1.4 board running Marlin firmware, and Repetier-Host as the control software. - -The NEMA23 works best at 24V, so I run the whole system at 24VDC. I used an SSR (Solid State Relay) module, like the ones used in the other PP machines, to switch AC mains power on and off, which powers the band heater. The SSR is controlled by the heater relay on the control board. When it turns on 24V, it activates the SSR, and turns on the Mains switch, allowing the system to deliver a lot more power to the extruder than it otherwise could. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/trash-printer-flake-extruding-3d-print-head-xxx/step_11.md b/resources/howtos-oa/trash-printer-flake-extruding-3d-print-head-xxx/step_11.md deleted file mode 100644 index fe8eaef62..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/trash-printer-flake-extruding-3d-print-head-xxx/step_11.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Start Trash Printing! - - This design was inspired by Precious Plastic and is 100% open source. Feel free to use, share, modify it with or without credit or permission. But if you do replicate it, please let me know and show me your build, and if you make improvements, please share them with the world! Replication is the highest form of flattery. - -If you want to learn more about my open-source infrastructure designs, and/or help support this work, you can follow my monthly project updates at Patreon.com/DisruptivelyUseful \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/trash-printer-flake-extruding-3d-print-head-xxx/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/trash-printer-flake-extruding-3d-print-head-xxx/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 5817c57d5..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/trash-printer-flake-extruding-3d-print-head-xxx/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### You'll also need these tools - - The tools you need are all fairly basics, but you will need laser cutter or CNC router to cut the wooden spacers that hold the extruder together. If you don't have access to these tools, you can use the provided files as a reference, and cut/drill them by hand. Note that you can use a variety of materials for the spacers, but wood is ideal because it is cheap, sturdy, and doesn't get soft when it heats up. - -The bottom flange should never get hot enough to burn the wood, but it can get hot enough to melt plastic, so using wood for the bottom spacers is highly recommended. The top spacers and adapters can be 3D printed out of plastic if you wish. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/trash-printer-flake-extruding-3d-print-head-xxx/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/trash-printer-flake-extruding-3d-print-head-xxx/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9c48c02c4..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/trash-printer-flake-extruding-3d-print-head-xxx/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Cut or Acquire Spacers - - In the attached zip folder, you'll find a set of .svgs for cutting the spacers you need. These can be cut using a laser cutter or CNC router, or drilled by hand if need be. - -I used a Glowforge Basic laser cutter. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/trash-printer-flake-extruding-3d-print-head-xxx/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/trash-printer-flake-extruding-3d-print-head-xxx/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 54f82605b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/trash-printer-flake-extruding-3d-print-head-xxx/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Assemble to bottom spacers - - Slide all of the bottom spacers starting with B1, onto the two long threaded bolts. These should go in sequential order from smallest hole to largest, and there should be 7 of them. If your material is thinner than .25", you may need more spacers. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/trash-printer-flake-extruding-3d-print-head-xxx/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/trash-printer-flake-extruding-3d-print-head-xxx/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index a37c81b88..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/trash-printer-flake-extruding-3d-print-head-xxx/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Mount Pipe Flange - - Tighten the nuts onto the spacers to hold them together, then install the smaller bolts from the opposite direction. Fit the pipe flange over the shorter bolts (covering the recessed heads of the longer bolts) and secure in place with nuts. - -Slide two top spacers (T2) behind the T1 motor bracket, then mount the NEMA 23 Stepper motor to the motor bracket spacer (T1) with M4 bolts. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/trash-printer-flake-extruding-3d-print-head-xxx/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/trash-printer-flake-extruding-3d-print-head-xxx/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index 5b8d6db71..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/trash-printer-flake-extruding-3d-print-head-xxx/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Install Auger - - Tighen the shaft coupler onto the motor spindle with a hex wrench, then press-fit the shaft coupler adapter into the teeth. This will fit a typical US hex shank for most 7/16" drill bits. The internal hex shape can be modified to fit other auger shanks. - -Slide the two assemblies together so that bolts from the bottom assembly line up with and push through the two holes in the top assembly. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/trash-printer-flake-extruding-3d-print-head-xxx/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/trash-printer-flake-extruding-3d-print-head-xxx/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index e6d792c71..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/trash-printer-flake-extruding-3d-print-head-xxx/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Tighten it all together - - Tighten the 1/4"-20 coupler nuts onto the ends of the protruding threaded bolts. It can be a tight fit, so using a ratcheting tool can be handy. Additional spacers (B7 or T2) can be added if needed. Adding additional spacers can help you set how far the auger extends into the extrusion tube. In general, I've found about 1-2" is sufficient. - -If the auger extends to far into the tube and into the melt zone, it becomes much harder to turn, and can become locked in place when the plastic cools. So keep it just far enough in that it can put pressure on the unmelted flakes. - -Next assemble the extrusion barrel, and slide the heater band over the barrel onto the brass adapter. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/trash-printer-flake-extruding-3d-print-head-xxx/step_8.md b/resources/howtos-oa/trash-printer-flake-extruding-3d-print-head-xxx/step_8.md deleted file mode 100644 index 034602658..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/trash-printer-flake-extruding-3d-print-head-xxx/step_8.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Assemble the Extrusion Tube - - Screw the pipe onto the pipe flange. This must only be secure enough to not come loose, hand tightening is fine, and no thread tape is required. Just screw it on until you can't anymore. - -Secure the heater band in place. I like to also see if I can slip the thermistor probe between the band and the pipe, and secure it so that it holds the temp probe in place. - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/trash-printer-flake-extruding-3d-print-head-xxx/step_9.md b/resources/howtos-oa/trash-printer-flake-extruding-3d-print-head-xxx/step_9.md deleted file mode 100644 index 41d269879..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/trash-printer-flake-extruding-3d-print-head-xxx/step_9.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11 +0,0 @@ -### Modify Hot End - - Use a drill to widen the hole in the aluminum hot end block, so that it fits snugly but easily around the barbed nozzle. - -Next, turn the hot end on it's side, and drill and then tap a small hole for an set screw to hold the hot end in place against the nozzle. - -Install the heater cartridge and screw-in thermistor into the hot end. They should just fit. - -Slide the modified hot end assembly over the nozzle barb, and tighten it in place, about 1/2" (4-5mm) above the end of the nozzle. - -You want this block to be as close to the tip as possible, but not so close that it gets covered in plastic during printing, which will increase fumes and is generally not ideal. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/trash-printer-flake-extruding-3d-print-head/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/trash-printer-flake-extruding-3d-print-head/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 186bde9f2..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/trash-printer-flake-extruding-3d-print-head/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Trash Printer Flake Extruding 3D Print Head - - -This is a modified extruder design, optimized for large-format 3D printing of recycled Polypropylene, using shredded plastic flakes rather than filament. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/trash-printer-flake-extruding-3d-print-head/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/trash-printer-flake-extruding-3d-print-head/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7cc15efbc..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/trash-printer-flake-extruding-3d-print-head/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Watch the video! - - First, take a look at the build video to get a sense of how things go together! The trash printer extruder head is a modified version of the precious plastic extruder, that integrates a vertical axis and NEMA23 stepper motor, making it easy to control with existing 3D printing software. - -This tutorial covers how build the print head. To get it printing, you'll need to mount it to a CNC gantry that can move it around and run gcode. Here, I'm using the MPCNC LowRider2 gantry designed by V1Engineering. While not technically open-source, the LowRider2 is neat because it is designed around 3D printable parts and commonly available hardware. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/trash-printer-flake-extruding-3d-print-head/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/trash-printer-flake-extruding-3d-print-head/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 419019bf4..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/trash-printer-flake-extruding-3d-print-head/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Acquire the parts! - - These are the parts you'll need to assemble the Trash Printer extruder. Everything listed here should be readily available at local hardware stores, or on Amazon. The estimate cost is $150-$200, and most of that cost is just the motor. Everything else is quite cheap. - -The design is built around a 3" PVC plumbing wye fitting, that acts as a hopper. These are widely available in the United States, I'm not sure if the dimensions are different internationally. If so, the custom parts may need to be modified. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/trash-printer-flake-extruding-3d-print-head/step_10.md b/resources/howtos-oa/trash-printer-flake-extruding-3d-print-head/step_10.md deleted file mode 100644 index 332cd5776..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/trash-printer-flake-extruding-3d-print-head/step_10.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Now Strap it to a Robot! - - Now you'll need to mount the extruder onto an appropriate CNC gantry. That's a whole other project, and it's fairly technical, but I use an MPCNC Low-Rider2, with a RAMBOv1.4 board running Marlin firmware, and Repetier-Host as the control software. - -The NEMA23 works best at 24V, so I run the whole system at 24VDC. I used an SSR (Solid State Relay) module, like the ones used in the other PP machines, to switch AC mains power on and off, which powers the band heater. The SSR is controlled by the heater relay on the control board. When it turns on 24V, it activates the SSR, and turns on the Mains switch, allowing the system to deliver a lot more power to the extruder than it otherwise could. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/trash-printer-flake-extruding-3d-print-head/step_11.md b/resources/howtos-oa/trash-printer-flake-extruding-3d-print-head/step_11.md deleted file mode 100644 index fe8eaef62..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/trash-printer-flake-extruding-3d-print-head/step_11.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Start Trash Printing! - - This design was inspired by Precious Plastic and is 100% open source. Feel free to use, share, modify it with or without credit or permission. But if you do replicate it, please let me know and show me your build, and if you make improvements, please share them with the world! Replication is the highest form of flattery. - -If you want to learn more about my open-source infrastructure designs, and/or help support this work, you can follow my monthly project updates at Patreon.com/DisruptivelyUseful \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/trash-printer-flake-extruding-3d-print-head/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/trash-printer-flake-extruding-3d-print-head/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 5817c57d5..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/trash-printer-flake-extruding-3d-print-head/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### You'll also need these tools - - The tools you need are all fairly basics, but you will need laser cutter or CNC router to cut the wooden spacers that hold the extruder together. If you don't have access to these tools, you can use the provided files as a reference, and cut/drill them by hand. Note that you can use a variety of materials for the spacers, but wood is ideal because it is cheap, sturdy, and doesn't get soft when it heats up. - -The bottom flange should never get hot enough to burn the wood, but it can get hot enough to melt plastic, so using wood for the bottom spacers is highly recommended. The top spacers and adapters can be 3D printed out of plastic if you wish. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/trash-printer-flake-extruding-3d-print-head/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/trash-printer-flake-extruding-3d-print-head/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9c48c02c4..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/trash-printer-flake-extruding-3d-print-head/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Cut or Acquire Spacers - - In the attached zip folder, you'll find a set of .svgs for cutting the spacers you need. These can be cut using a laser cutter or CNC router, or drilled by hand if need be. - -I used a Glowforge Basic laser cutter. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/trash-printer-flake-extruding-3d-print-head/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/trash-printer-flake-extruding-3d-print-head/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 54f82605b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/trash-printer-flake-extruding-3d-print-head/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Assemble to bottom spacers - - Slide all of the bottom spacers starting with B1, onto the two long threaded bolts. These should go in sequential order from smallest hole to largest, and there should be 7 of them. If your material is thinner than .25", you may need more spacers. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/trash-printer-flake-extruding-3d-print-head/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/trash-printer-flake-extruding-3d-print-head/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index a37c81b88..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/trash-printer-flake-extruding-3d-print-head/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Mount Pipe Flange - - Tighten the nuts onto the spacers to hold them together, then install the smaller bolts from the opposite direction. Fit the pipe flange over the shorter bolts (covering the recessed heads of the longer bolts) and secure in place with nuts. - -Slide two top spacers (T2) behind the T1 motor bracket, then mount the NEMA 23 Stepper motor to the motor bracket spacer (T1) with M4 bolts. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/trash-printer-flake-extruding-3d-print-head/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/trash-printer-flake-extruding-3d-print-head/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index 5b8d6db71..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/trash-printer-flake-extruding-3d-print-head/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Install Auger - - Tighen the shaft coupler onto the motor spindle with a hex wrench, then press-fit the shaft coupler adapter into the teeth. This will fit a typical US hex shank for most 7/16" drill bits. The internal hex shape can be modified to fit other auger shanks. - -Slide the two assemblies together so that bolts from the bottom assembly line up with and push through the two holes in the top assembly. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/trash-printer-flake-extruding-3d-print-head/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/trash-printer-flake-extruding-3d-print-head/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index e6d792c71..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/trash-printer-flake-extruding-3d-print-head/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Tighten it all together - - Tighten the 1/4"-20 coupler nuts onto the ends of the protruding threaded bolts. It can be a tight fit, so using a ratcheting tool can be handy. Additional spacers (B7 or T2) can be added if needed. Adding additional spacers can help you set how far the auger extends into the extrusion tube. In general, I've found about 1-2" is sufficient. - -If the auger extends to far into the tube and into the melt zone, it becomes much harder to turn, and can become locked in place when the plastic cools. So keep it just far enough in that it can put pressure on the unmelted flakes. - -Next assemble the extrusion barrel, and slide the heater band over the barrel onto the brass adapter. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/trash-printer-flake-extruding-3d-print-head/step_8.md b/resources/howtos-oa/trash-printer-flake-extruding-3d-print-head/step_8.md deleted file mode 100644 index 034602658..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/trash-printer-flake-extruding-3d-print-head/step_8.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Assemble the Extrusion Tube - - Screw the pipe onto the pipe flange. This must only be secure enough to not come loose, hand tightening is fine, and no thread tape is required. Just screw it on until you can't anymore. - -Secure the heater band in place. I like to also see if I can slip the thermistor probe between the band and the pipe, and secure it so that it holds the temp probe in place. - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/trash-printer-flake-extruding-3d-print-head/step_9.md b/resources/howtos-oa/trash-printer-flake-extruding-3d-print-head/step_9.md deleted file mode 100644 index 41d269879..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/trash-printer-flake-extruding-3d-print-head/step_9.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11 +0,0 @@ -### Modify Hot End - - Use a drill to widen the hole in the aluminum hot end block, so that it fits snugly but easily around the barbed nozzle. - -Next, turn the hot end on it's side, and drill and then tap a small hole for an set screw to hold the hot end in place against the nozzle. - -Install the heater cartridge and screw-in thermistor into the hot end. They should just fit. - -Slide the modified hot end assembly over the nozzle barb, and tighten it in place, about 1/2" (4-5mm) above the end of the nozzle. - -You want this block to be as close to the tip as possible, but not so close that it gets covered in plastic during printing, which will increase fumes and is generally not ideal. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/trouble-shooting-injection-moulding/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/trouble-shooting-injection-moulding/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 564e1c8e8..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/trouble-shooting-injection-moulding/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Trouble shooting injection moulding - - -Here I try to to cover all issues that may appear while you are trying to make parts with the process of injection moulding. - -Some issues might appear but not relevant for you to fix - so see it more as an optional guide where you pick the problems you want to solve. Some "problems" can also widen the artistic freedom to play :) - -The solutions are ordered in a recommended order! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/trouble-shooting-injection-moulding/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/trouble-shooting-injection-moulding/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index aea61e6da..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/trouble-shooting-injection-moulding/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,12 +0,0 @@ -### Incomplete fill of the mould 1 - - If your mould is not filled completely. - -Solutions: -- Check if there is enough material in the barrel at the next try -- Check if your injection machine volume is at least +20% larger than your mould volume -- Increase the speed between opening the injection chamber and injecting the plastic -- Check there is no "cold material" at the nozzle front -- Increase material temperature -- Increase mould temperature -- If your mould volume is just under the machine volume, you may need to pre-compress the material several times with a closed nozzle to densify the material \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/trouble-shooting-injection-moulding/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/trouble-shooting-injection-moulding/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index d869b63d5..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/trouble-shooting-injection-moulding/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Incomplete fill of the mould 2 - - If nothing of the above helps, there are ways you can modify the mould to ease the injection process. Please contact your mould provider prior to those changes! - -- Add air vents. Especially on thin walled and large parts air vents will help with the injection process. Everyone can add air vents after the mould is made. Use a triangular file to add small channels from the cavity area which is hit last by the plastic to the outside of the mould. Do not make them deeper than 0,1mm! Otherwise you will end up with flash at those areas. - -- Increase the gate size. You can increase the surface of the gate (where the plastic flows into your part geometry) to decrease the necessary injection pressure \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/trouble-shooting-injection-moulding/step_10.md b/resources/howtos-oa/trouble-shooting-injection-moulding/step_10.md deleted file mode 100644 index fcb9f7e8e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/trouble-shooting-injection-moulding/step_10.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Forgotten anything? - - In case you experience a new problem - please shoot me a mail with your issue + image and I will try to help out. -https://community.preciousplastic.com/u/easymoulds - -I would like to add them to this How To, so please declare if your are okay with sharing the image here! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/trouble-shooting-injection-moulding/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/trouble-shooting-injection-moulding/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index fbb840579..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/trouble-shooting-injection-moulding/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Flash - - If plastic comes out through the split surface of your mould halfs. - -Solutions: -- Check if your mould is fully clamped at the next try. Increase the clamping pressure if possible -- Check the flatness of your mould and if there is anything preventing your mould from closing fully -- Decrease the material temperature -- Decrease the injection pressure diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/trouble-shooting-injection-moulding/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/trouble-shooting-injection-moulding/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 981b43500..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/trouble-shooting-injection-moulding/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Delamination - - If the material delaminates from the part. - -Solutions: -- Check if your material is clean -- Check if your material mix is pure from one material type only. Some materials will not create a chemical connection through different characteristics on a molecular level -- Decrease the material temperatue. You can verify that by cutting the part in half to check if the delamination appears at the core too -- Decrease the mould temperature. You can verify that by cutting the part in half to check if the delamination appears only at the surface \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/trouble-shooting-injection-moulding/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/trouble-shooting-injection-moulding/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index e85b2c2bf..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/trouble-shooting-injection-moulding/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Sink marks - - Sink marks are sections of your part surface where the material shrinks more than on other sections and creates holes or indents. - -Solutions: -- Increase the holding pressure after the injection operation. After injecting it is recommended to hold the pressure for 2-15sec. depending on your wall thicknesses and part design -- Decrease the material temperature \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/trouble-shooting-injection-moulding/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/trouble-shooting-injection-moulding/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 12e4ded55..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/trouble-shooting-injection-moulding/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Weld seams - - In case your mould shapes geometries where the material has to flow around, chances are that at the point where the material meets again a "line" is visible. This is also the case if your mould has multiple gates into one cavity. -Those lines are called weld seams. They vary from a line which is only visible at the surface of the part to a line which actually is a surface through the whole geometry. In those cases the structural rigidity of this section will be influenced and a predeminated breaking point is created. - -Solutions: -- Increase the material temperature -- Increase the mould temperature -- Check if the material is clean from any contaminiations, especially free of dust or oils \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/trouble-shooting-injection-moulding/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/trouble-shooting-injection-moulding/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index 5baec6cb6..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/trouble-shooting-injection-moulding/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Colors don't mix up - - In case you look for specific target colors you have to consider some parameters on colormixing plastics. - -Solutions (specifc for each case) -- To add a second color to a white material start with around 2-5% of color to 95-98% white material -- To add a second color to a black/colored material start with around 30% of color to 70% black/colored material -- To achieve a solid color you may need to "masterbatch" your material. This means you have to mix the different colors with an extrusion machine prior to the processing with the injection machine. -- If you use special color to colorize your material masterbatching is crucial. Try to Divide the color pellets to a smaller size. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/trouble-shooting-injection-moulding/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/trouble-shooting-injection-moulding/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index 05b8790f0..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/trouble-shooting-injection-moulding/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Burn Marks - - Your material has a darker color than the inital raw material. - -Solutions: -- Decrease the material temperature -- In rare cases: Decrease the mould temperature \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/trouble-shooting-injection-moulding/step_8.md b/resources/howtos-oa/trouble-shooting-injection-moulding/step_8.md deleted file mode 100644 index 735473612..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/trouble-shooting-injection-moulding/step_8.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Silver Streaks - - Silver Streaks describe the appearance of silver lines on your part. This occurs mostly with the use of PS or ABS material. - -Solutions: -- Pre drying of your material will solve the problem. A standard oven with convection heating can be used as a quick fix. For long term use special pre drying applications should be used for higher energy efficiency. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/trouble-shooting-injection-moulding/step_9.md b/resources/howtos-oa/trouble-shooting-injection-moulding/step_9.md deleted file mode 100644 index eeba56e87..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/trouble-shooting-injection-moulding/step_9.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Air bubbles inside the part - - In case you process clear material, make parts with integrated function (like flexing) or your parts get post processed by machining you want to avoid that air is trapped within your parts. To verify there are no air bubbles within your parts, cut them into sections carefully! - -Solution: -- Decrease the material temperature -- Pre-compress the material with a closed nozzle and make sure the material is fully molten -- Increase the pressure \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/troubleshooting-injection-moulding/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/troubleshooting-injection-moulding/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index ced2bee52..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/troubleshooting-injection-moulding/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Troubleshooting injection moulding - - -This is not an exact step by step tutorial. Each step describes a problem you might face during the process of injection moulding. - -The solutions are ordered in the recommended order of optimization top -> bottom. - -If you have a problem which is not listed here, feel free to PM me ;) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/troubleshooting-injection-moulding/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/troubleshooting-injection-moulding/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index d4536ef6f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/troubleshooting-injection-moulding/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,13 +0,0 @@ -### Incomplete fill of the mould 1 - - If your mould is not filled completely. - -Solutions: -- Check if there is enough material in the barrel at the next try -- Check if your injection machine volume is at least +20% larger than your mould volume -- Increase the speed between opening the injection chamber and injecting the plastic -- Check there is no "cold material" at the nozzle front -- Increase material temperature -- Increase mould temperature -- If your mould volume is just under the machine volume, you may need to pre-compress the material several times with a closed nozzle to densify the material -- Increase Pressure (Take care to not damage the machine by the use of lever extensions etc. !) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/troubleshooting-injection-moulding/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/troubleshooting-injection-moulding/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index d869b63d5..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/troubleshooting-injection-moulding/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Incomplete fill of the mould 2 - - If nothing of the above helps, there are ways you can modify the mould to ease the injection process. Please contact your mould provider prior to those changes! - -- Add air vents. Especially on thin walled and large parts air vents will help with the injection process. Everyone can add air vents after the mould is made. Use a triangular file to add small channels from the cavity area which is hit last by the plastic to the outside of the mould. Do not make them deeper than 0,1mm! Otherwise you will end up with flash at those areas. - -- Increase the gate size. You can increase the surface of the gate (where the plastic flows into your part geometry) to decrease the necessary injection pressure \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/troubleshooting-injection-moulding/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/troubleshooting-injection-moulding/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index c2a53c3d8..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/troubleshooting-injection-moulding/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Flash - - If plastic comes out through the split surface of your mould halfs. - -Solutions: -- Check if your mould is fully clamped at the next try. Increase the clamping pressure if possible -- Check the flatness of your mould and if there is anything preventing your mould from closing fully -- Decrease the material temperature -- Decrease the injection pressure \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/troubleshooting-injection-moulding/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/troubleshooting-injection-moulding/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 981b43500..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/troubleshooting-injection-moulding/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Delamination - - If the material delaminates from the part. - -Solutions: -- Check if your material is clean -- Check if your material mix is pure from one material type only. Some materials will not create a chemical connection through different characteristics on a molecular level -- Decrease the material temperatue. You can verify that by cutting the part in half to check if the delamination appears at the core too -- Decrease the mould temperature. You can verify that by cutting the part in half to check if the delamination appears only at the surface \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/troubleshooting-injection-moulding/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/troubleshooting-injection-moulding/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index b0a871f4c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/troubleshooting-injection-moulding/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Sink marks - - Sink marks are sections of your part surface where the material shrinks more than on other sections and creates holes or indents. - -Solutions: -- Increase the "pressure time" after the injection operation. After injecting it is recommended to hold the pressure for 2-15 sec. depending on your wall thicknesses and part design -- Decrease the material temperature \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/troubleshooting-injection-moulding/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/troubleshooting-injection-moulding/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 12e4ded55..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/troubleshooting-injection-moulding/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Weld seams - - In case your mould shapes geometries where the material has to flow around, chances are that at the point where the material meets again a "line" is visible. This is also the case if your mould has multiple gates into one cavity. -Those lines are called weld seams. They vary from a line which is only visible at the surface of the part to a line which actually is a surface through the whole geometry. In those cases the structural rigidity of this section will be influenced and a predeminated breaking point is created. - -Solutions: -- Increase the material temperature -- Increase the mould temperature -- Check if the material is clean from any contaminiations, especially free of dust or oils \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/troubleshooting-injection-moulding/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/troubleshooting-injection-moulding/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index 3529e3131..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/troubleshooting-injection-moulding/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Colors don't mix up - - In case you look for specific target colors you have to consider some parameters on colormixing plastics. - -Solutions (specifc for each case) -- To add a second color to a white material start with around 2-5% of color to 95-98% white material -- To add a second color to a black/colored material start with around 30% of color to 70% black/colored material -- To achieve solid colors you may need to "masterbatch" your material. This means you mix the different colors with an extrusion machine prior to the processing with the injection machine. -- If you use special color to colorize your material masterbatching is crucial. Try to Divide the color pellets to a smaller size. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/troubleshooting-injection-moulding/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/troubleshooting-injection-moulding/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index 05b8790f0..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/troubleshooting-injection-moulding/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Burn Marks - - Your material has a darker color than the inital raw material. - -Solutions: -- Decrease the material temperature -- In rare cases: Decrease the mould temperature \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/troubleshooting-injection-moulding/step_8.md b/resources/howtos-oa/troubleshooting-injection-moulding/step_8.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7a21d70d4..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/troubleshooting-injection-moulding/step_8.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### "Silver Streaks" - - Silver Streaks describe the appearance of silver lines on your part. This occurs mostly with the use of PS or ABS material. - -Solutions: -- Pre drying of your material will solve the problem. A standard oven with convection heating can be used as a quick fix. For long term use special pre drying applications should be used for higher energy efficiency. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/troubleshooting-injection-moulding/step_9.md b/resources/howtos-oa/troubleshooting-injection-moulding/step_9.md deleted file mode 100644 index f398eb13b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/troubleshooting-injection-moulding/step_9.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Air bubbles inside the part - - In case you process clear material, make parts with integrated function (like flexing) or your parts get post processed by machining you want to avoid that air is trapped within your parts. To verify there are no ari bubbles within your parts, cut them into sections carefully! - -Solution: -- Decrease the material temperature -- Pre-compress the material with a closed nozzle and make sure the material is fully molten -- Increase the pressure diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/turn-a-pizza-oven-into-a-sheet-oven-/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/turn-a-pizza-oven-into-a-sheet-oven-/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 23512f872..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/turn-a-pizza-oven-into-a-sheet-oven-/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Turn a pizza oven into a Sheet oven - - -On this tutorial I will show you how we do plastic sheets with a pizza oven and a Cardboard/PET press. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/turn-a-pizza-oven-into-a-sheet-oven-/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/turn-a-pizza-oven-into-a-sheet-oven-/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 323249604..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/turn-a-pizza-oven-into-a-sheet-oven-/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Refurbishing the oven and PID - - We got an old pizza oven for free from a local restaurant. Then we sand it down, cleaned it and added a PID controller. The thermometer is in the middle of the oven. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/turn-a-pizza-oven-into-a-sheet-oven-/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/turn-a-pizza-oven-into-a-sheet-oven-/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 45336e3c3..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/turn-a-pizza-oven-into-a-sheet-oven-/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Making the mold - - We created a mold out of square steel tubes. Here is important to do a mold the size of the oven, but you can also use simple bread trays. - -I think the magic and complexity of good sheets lays here in this step. We keep making new molds that are far better. but in this case we use steel that was laying around. - -For next molds: -- We will use aluminum sheets -- We will add a frame to "limit" the compression width \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/turn-a-pizza-oven-into-a-sheet-oven-/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/turn-a-pizza-oven-into-a-sheet-oven-/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index d463d9cb6..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/turn-a-pizza-oven-into-a-sheet-oven-/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### The process I - - Now, we add vaseline to the mold and afterwards we add around 3 kg of shredded HDPE and put the mold lid. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/turn-a-pizza-oven-into-a-sheet-oven-/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/turn-a-pizza-oven-into-a-sheet-oven-/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index b186b7332..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/turn-a-pizza-oven-into-a-sheet-oven-/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### The process II - - Now we turn on the oven and regulate the temperature depending on the plastic. We got good results with 160°C, but remember, this was measurred in the middle of the oven. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/turn-a-pizza-oven-into-a-sheet-oven-/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/turn-a-pizza-oven-into-a-sheet-oven-/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4499f71a4..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/turn-a-pizza-oven-into-a-sheet-oven-/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### The process III - - We let it heat for 40-50 minutes and then take it to the press. We use a press that is made to press PET and Cardboard at the local recycling center (www.huertoromaverde.org). \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/turn-a-pizza-oven-into-a-sheet-oven-/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/turn-a-pizza-oven-into-a-sheet-oven-/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 608ad12b9..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/turn-a-pizza-oven-into-a-sheet-oven-/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### The result: Sheets - - Here are the first 3 sheets we made, \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/turn-a-pizza-oven-into-a-sheet-oven-/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/turn-a-pizza-oven-into-a-sheet-oven-/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index 6509eafa2..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/turn-a-pizza-oven-into-a-sheet-oven-/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### If you want to know more - - Check out the first part of the video where I show how it works: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gxkcffQD3eQ&t=131s \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/turn-a-pizza-oven-into-a-sheet-oven-/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/turn-a-pizza-oven-into-a-sheet-oven-/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index effa50d3a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/turn-a-pizza-oven-into-a-sheet-oven-/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Try it yourself - - Plastic Sheets are very versatile to create different products, we mainly use them after cutting them in the CNC mill. - -But we also have cut them by hand and made boxes, signs and even a skateboard. - -Try it at home and share it with the community, diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/uao-vertical-manual-injection-machine/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/uao-vertical-manual-injection-machine/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index ebf5a001f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/uao-vertical-manual-injection-machine/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### UAO vertical manual injection machine - - -Following the initial precious plastic models, I modeled in SolidWorks with most of the detail, a manual vertical desktop injection molding machine that does not require welding processes. Its injection capacity is approximately 90 grams and the voltage is 110Volts. -Parts already were manufactured and machine was assembled. It also was tested and is working well. I am looking to improve the behavior of the temperature by using the PID technique to have a better temperature control. In the process of building the mold. -In the file called Ensamblaje.SLDASM you can find the 3D model of the machine. -There is also a file with some DXF files and Building drawings too. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/uao-vertical-manual-injection-machine/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/uao-vertical-manual-injection-machine/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index f673ca6ec..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/uao-vertical-manual-injection-machine/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### PARTS and tools for assembly. - - First at all, it is important to set all the parts required to start to assembly the injector machine. Some of the parts have been milled or cut with special tools like lathes or water pressure machine, however manufactured process has been very simple and drawings are provided with all detailed. There are 20 parts and 19 screws with washer and nuts. No welding is required. One 5/16" Allen key and \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/uao-vertical-manual-injection-machine/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/uao-vertical-manual-injection-machine/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 070b9576b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/uao-vertical-manual-injection-machine/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Base assembly - - Base assembly requires 4 square tubes, 4 plates, 4 bended plates 90 degrees. 10 screws with nut 3/8". Allen key an wrench. First, its important to form an H shape with the tubes, then guide the screws through the holes. Tight up and done. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/uao-vertical-manual-injection-machine/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/uao-vertical-manual-injection-machine/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 676bc70a6..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/uao-vertical-manual-injection-machine/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Barrel holder, clamps and barrel - - In the same way, use screws and nuts to set up the triangle plate which holds the clamps and thus, the holds the barrel. Every part and perforation is made for 3/8 inches screw. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/uao-vertical-manual-injection-machine/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/uao-vertical-manual-injection-machine/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index dbe55103c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/uao-vertical-manual-injection-machine/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Long linkage mechanism - - Long linkage mechanism. Here use the two longest links and install them with the help of two 2 x 3/5" Allen screws, double washer and nuts. Do not tight too much because this is a movable part. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/uao-vertical-manual-injection-machine/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/uao-vertical-manual-injection-machine/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 46591607c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/uao-vertical-manual-injection-machine/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Shaft and handler. - - Finally, Shaft for injection purpose and handler need to be installed. First insert the shaft into the barrel. It can be held with a screw. Make sure the nozzle is installed too. Then, screw the handler bar to the mechanical link and use the short mechanical link to held the shaft. As mention before, use 3/8 Allen screw an Allen key for all the assembly process. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/uao-vertical-manual-injection-machine/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/uao-vertical-manual-injection-machine/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2bce3cc73..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/uao-vertical-manual-injection-machine/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Electronics - - Install two temperature controls, two solid state relays, one current differential protection, one switch and two resistors. -Because I wanted to have a large quantity of material to inject, I mean to be able to work with 100 grams of material, resistors have a capacity of 550 watts at 120 volts. There were used solid state relays also a differential current protection C10. Wires AWG gauge 18 and 14 for power. Two temperature controllers Autonics brand were used for PID temperature assistance. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/upcycle-bottle-caps-into-christmas-ornaments/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/upcycle-bottle-caps-into-christmas-ornaments/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 94773132b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/upcycle-bottle-caps-into-christmas-ornaments/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,16 +0,0 @@ -### Upcycle bottle caps into Christmas Ornaments - - -Turn your plastic waste into some cute Christmas Ornaments that you can use for decoration or to hang on your gifts. Let`s make Christmas less trashy! - -What you will need: - -- Bottle caps -- A panini press with a flat surface -- Silicone gloves -- Baking paper -- Eye protection -- Respiration mask -- a fret saw (manual or electrical) -- sharp knife or razor blade -- cookie cutters or paper stencil \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/upcycle-bottle-caps-into-christmas-ornaments/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/upcycle-bottle-caps-into-christmas-ornaments/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index d6664994c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/upcycle-bottle-caps-into-christmas-ornaments/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Sort your bottle caps - - First you need to sort your bottle caps to make sure they are all the same kind of plastic. You can use either a batch of HDPE or PP bottle caps. You can usually find the recycling category on the inside of the bottle cap: number 2 for HDPE and number 5 for PP. - -If they are not labeled, you can also identify them by squeezing them a bit. You will notice that HDPE caps are a bit more flexible and PP are a bit more rigid. Caps from milk jugs are usually made from HDPE whereas some caps for soda bottle are sometimes PP. If in doubt, through it out! Otherwise, you risk to contaminate your batch. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/upcycle-bottle-caps-into-christmas-ornaments/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/upcycle-bottle-caps-into-christmas-ornaments/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 1159e5d4e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/upcycle-bottle-caps-into-christmas-ornaments/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Wash your bottle caps - - Once sorted, you need to wash the caps that you want to use. You can either soak them in a sink and clean them manually with a brush. If you plan to recycle quite a lot of caps, it will be more efficient to put them into a clothes bag and throw them into the washing machine, choosing a short washing cycle. Let them dry completely and you are ready for the next step. - -Also, think about what colors you want your ornaments to be. We chose red and white as base colors and added some green highlights to give the ornaments a Christmassy touch. But of course, it`s totally up to you what color you like your ornaments to be – and up to what colors you may have available. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/upcycle-bottle-caps-into-christmas-ornaments/step_10.md b/resources/howtos-oa/upcycle-bottle-caps-into-christmas-ornaments/step_10.md deleted file mode 100644 index 39caa187c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/upcycle-bottle-caps-into-christmas-ornaments/step_10.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Drill a hole and add a string - - You are nearly ready now. Just drill a small hole into the top of your ornament so you can add a string. The size of the hole depends on the thickness of your string. - -We re-used strings that we had collected over the past years. That way, your Christmas ornaments are 100% upcycled and zero new materials were needed to create them. - -That`s it, your ornaments are ready. Well done and congratulations to help cut down on the trash that is produced during Christmas time. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/upcycle-bottle-caps-into-christmas-ornaments/step_11.md b/resources/howtos-oa/upcycle-bottle-caps-into-christmas-ornaments/step_11.md deleted file mode 100644 index 61c0f86ac..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/upcycle-bottle-caps-into-christmas-ornaments/step_11.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Gift the ornament to a friend - - This step is optional, of course. By gifting your cute upcycled ornaments to friends or family, you can help to spread the important message that it`s not necessary to buy new things to decorate for Christmas. By making ornaments from bottle caps, you make great use of a precious material that would otherwise be burnt or end up in a land fill. And you create a hand made ornament that was crafted with love and care for our planet. - -Merry Christmas, -Maria & Nike from IN MOCEAN diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/upcycle-bottle-caps-into-christmas-ornaments/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/upcycle-bottle-caps-into-christmas-ornaments/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index a92fd0a82..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/upcycle-bottle-caps-into-christmas-ornaments/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### First layer of bottle caps - - Plug in your panini press and let it heat up. Make sure you are using one with a flat surface in order to get a flat plastic sheet for your ornaments. Once the panini press is hot, place a baking sheet on the press. We usually work with Teflon baking sheets because you can reuse them more often and they don`t tear apart. - -Now place your bottle caps on the panini press. It does not matter which way round you place them, they will melt just the same. Now cover the bottle caps with a second baking sheet and close the panini press. - -It helps the melting process, if you place something heavy on top of the panini press. This can be some bricks or heavy books, whatever you may have available. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/upcycle-bottle-caps-into-christmas-ornaments/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/upcycle-bottle-caps-into-christmas-ornaments/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index ab5eb9b27..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/upcycle-bottle-caps-into-christmas-ornaments/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Second or third layer - - Once your bottle caps are melted, you can add one or two more layers on top of it in the same way you did in Step 2. This depends a bit on how thick you want your ornaments to be. We went for 3 to 4mm thickness for the plastic sheet. You will need to melt 2 to 4 layers of bottle caps for that, depending a bit on the size of your caps. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/upcycle-bottle-caps-into-christmas-ornaments/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/upcycle-bottle-caps-into-christmas-ornaments/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index ae62114fa..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/upcycle-bottle-caps-into-christmas-ornaments/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Create a beautiful batik desig - - Now you should have a layer of melted bottle caps. You can either use the sheet right away or you can create a pretty batik design. To create that, put on some silicone gloves, roll the warm plastic into a sausage and then twist it around. This step is totally up to your own creativity. You can pull the warm plastic to stretch it, then fold it together and twist it again until you reach your desired design. -If the plastic hardens in the process, you can always re-heat it in the press to make it moldable again. - -Now you have a lump of plastic that needs to be melted again in order to make a flat sheet from it. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/upcycle-bottle-caps-into-christmas-ornaments/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/upcycle-bottle-caps-into-christmas-ornaments/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4895c5a06..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/upcycle-bottle-caps-into-christmas-ornaments/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Make a flat sheet - - Place the plastic lump inside the panini press and heat it up. Once the plastic starts to get soft, you can start applying pressure to the panini press again. We found that it helps to sit on top of it (careful not to burn yourself) and wiggle around a bit to make sure the plastic stretches out far enough. - -You can also remove the plastic from the press and use a rolling pin, but we found that sitting on top of the press works much better because you are not removing the plastic from the heat source. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/upcycle-bottle-caps-into-christmas-ornaments/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/upcycle-bottle-caps-into-christmas-ornaments/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index fbcbe60de..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/upcycle-bottle-caps-into-christmas-ornaments/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Let it cool down - - Open the press every now and then to check if you have reached the desired thickness of the sheet. Once it`s to your liking, switch off the press and let the sheet cool down. Make sure to leave something heavy on top of the press, otherwise your plastic will deform in the cooling process. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/upcycle-bottle-caps-into-christmas-ornaments/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/upcycle-bottle-caps-into-christmas-ornaments/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index c6ee2b49b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/upcycle-bottle-caps-into-christmas-ornaments/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Draw your ornaments onto sheet - - Once your sheet has cooled down, it`s time to get creative. Grab a pen that writes on plastic and draw your ornaments on the plastic sheet. We used cookie cutters for some of them but we also made some stencils from paper. - -When choosing your design, try to think about the sawing process: the more difficult or filigree your design is, the harder it will be to cut it out. Maybe start with something simple and then work your way towards more complicated designs. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/upcycle-bottle-caps-into-christmas-ornaments/step_8.md b/resources/howtos-oa/upcycle-bottle-caps-into-christmas-ornaments/step_8.md deleted file mode 100644 index f6474feed..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/upcycle-bottle-caps-into-christmas-ornaments/step_8.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Cut out the ornaments - - Now it`s time to cut. For this step, you need a fretsaw. This can be a manual one or an electrical one, both work. We used an electrical one because it makes the process a little easier. But it`s also possible with a manual one, you just need a bit more patience. -Move the saw along the lines that you drew on the plastic sheet and voilà: you have your Christmas Ornament. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/upcycle-bottle-caps-into-christmas-ornaments/step_9.md b/resources/howtos-oa/upcycle-bottle-caps-into-christmas-ornaments/step_9.md deleted file mode 100644 index 914d9b0e0..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/upcycle-bottle-caps-into-christmas-ornaments/step_9.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Clean the edges - - Use a sharp knife or razor blade to clean the edges of your ornament. We found that this works better than using sanding paper and it also produces less micro plastic. - -Remember: You don`t want to create additional pollution with your crafting, so make sure you always collect all the little plastic pieces that get cut off during your creative process. The great thing: you can throw them back on the panini press for your next batch! diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/upgrade-your-extrusion-screw/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/upgrade-your-extrusion-screw/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 388702bda..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/upgrade-your-extrusion-screw/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Upgrade your Extrusion screw - - -Switching to an industrial screw will open up many new exciting ways of working with the extrusion machine. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/upgrade-your-extrusion-screw/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/upgrade-your-extrusion-screw/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 6b3eca73a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/upgrade-your-extrusion-screw/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Get a screw - - V2 of the extrusion machine uses a wood auger to transport the plastic from one side to the other of the barrel while being heated up and melted. It works fine for most applications but if you want to push extrusion to the next level you need a screw that builds up pressure while transporting the plastic. - -You need an industrial screw. - -You can download the technical drawing (go to top of this page) if you're adventurous enough to make it yourself, or you can buy it on the Precious Plastic Bazar. - -👉 bazar.preciousplastic.com \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/upgrade-your-extrusion-screw/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/upgrade-your-extrusion-screw/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index fb1d83275..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/upgrade-your-extrusion-screw/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Install the screw - - The new screw should fit straight into your existing barrel if your machine has been built according to the drawings in our Download kit. You can also have a look on the Bazar for other sizes if you should need. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/upgrade-your-extrusion-screw/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/upgrade-your-extrusion-screw/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 65b8d1e20..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/upgrade-your-extrusion-screw/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Reinforce your machine - - You can simply swap this screw for your existing one, but make sure you reinforce your machine. This is very important as this screw brings way more pressure on your machine, particularly on the barrel-holder, the motor and the bottom plate. - -Have a look at our ‘Beam making’ Video to learn more about this and see how you can make beams with this upgraded screw. - -👉 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zNGuuSKE1pY - -Have fun extruding! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/upgrade-your-toaster-oven/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/upgrade-your-toaster-oven/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 99a081dc2..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/upgrade-your-toaster-oven/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Upgrade your Toaster Oven - - -This mod to a entry level toaster oven will increase heating efficiency and temperature accuracy of the oven. It requires substituting the thermostat that the toaster oven comes with to a REX-C100 Digital PID Temperature Controller. This controller is obtained from Aliexpress and is relatively cheap. The second part of the mod is to install some fibre-glass insulation. This is rated to around 540c so should be able to easily handle the toaster oven's maximum temperature. You have to be selective where you put the insulation as it can impede the mechanical operation of the taster oven. You can also use fibre cement to help insulate your oven. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/upgrade-your-toaster-oven/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/upgrade-your-toaster-oven/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index ef768b3ea..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/upgrade-your-toaster-oven/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,15 +0,0 @@ -### Safety First! - - Electrical Safety: -Unplug the toaster oven before starting any work. -Use appropriate tools: Use insulated screwdrivers, wear electrical safety gloves. -Double-check wiring: Ensure connections are secure and properly insulated. -Before using the modified oven, test it in a safe environment to ensure it functions correctly and doesn't overheat. -Consult a qualified electrician if you're unsure about any electrical aspects of the modification. - -Considerations: -Monitor first use: Stay vigilant during the initial use of the modified oven to detect any potential fire hazard. -Handle fiberglass insulation carefully: Wear protective gloves, long sleeves, and a mask to avoid skin and respiratory irritation. -Read and follow the manufacturer's instructions for both the toaster oven and the REX controller -Never leave the modified oven unattended while in use. -Safety is paramount when working with electrical appliances. If you have any doubts about your abilities or safety, seek professional assistance \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/upgrade-your-toaster-oven/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/upgrade-your-toaster-oven/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index c95600d6f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/upgrade-your-toaster-oven/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Removing the cover and identifying the thermostat. - - Make sure you have the toaster oven unplugged from the power socket. - -1. Locate the screws that holds the main cover in place and remove them. -2.Carefully and without force, remove the cover. as shown in picture one, identify the thermostat. It will be behind the front dial that is used to change the temperature of the toaster oven. Please note in picture 1 that I have already removed the 2 wires from the thermostat (brown wires with spade connectors). the wires on either side of the thermostat should be connected to the SSR on terminals 1 and 2 on the 24~380VAC side illustrated on the SSR. The terminals on the other side of the SSR go to the EX-C100 Digital PID Temperature Controller. Be aware that those 2 wires need to be connected with the correct polarity. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/upgrade-your-toaster-oven/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/upgrade-your-toaster-oven/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index cb43d07ee..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/upgrade-your-toaster-oven/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Install the temperature probe. - - With the K type probe, I removed the rotisserie motor from the toaster oven and screwed the probe in one of the holes. You may have to find a nut to fit the probe and drill a hole in the wall of the toaster oven to make the K type probe be in the actual oven part where the heat is. couple of notes here. If you have a look at picture 1, you will see that I have circled in red the probe and 2 other objects. the other 2 objects are the heating elements and when the oven is plugged in that will have electricity running through them. You would want to put some fiber-glass insulation around them to prevent them from being short circuited by the wire of the K type probe. only place the fiber-glass insulation between the wall and all the wires of the toaster oven - do not cover the SSR with insulation as it needs to be kept relatively cool. In the photo, you can see that I have powered on the oven - please don't do that until the covers are back on. I am a qualified electrical fitter-mechanic. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/upgrade-your-toaster-oven/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/upgrade-your-toaster-oven/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 5f4d11069..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/upgrade-your-toaster-oven/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Adding insulation and finishing up - - At the minimum you should add insulation between the wiring compartment and the toaster oven. With the SSR installed in the wiring compartment, heat is not what you want in there as the SSR will overheat. Also protect the wiring that is going from the wiring compartment to the REX-C100 Digital PID Temperature Controller. metal that is cut away is sharp and has the potential of cutting wires and shorting them out. To house the REX-C100 Digital PID Temperature Controller, if you have one, fold up a sheet of metal to mount on the outside of the toaster oven. You could also mount a plastic container of some sort and make a cutout to mount the controller. -All up plan your steps and if you have any questions just let me know and I will do my best to help. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/urban-bench-made-from-marine-litter/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/urban-bench-made-from-marine-litter/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 681469017..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/urban-bench-made-from-marine-litter/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Urban bench made from marine litter - - -Manufacture of urban benches from recycled polypropylene plastic and fishing nets recovered by fishermen from the coast of Spain. -We present two important processes, at first the creation of panels with a sheetpress. And then the cutting and manufacturing of product, in this case urban benches. -This is a project developed jointly with Vertidos Cero Association. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/urban-bench-made-from-marine-litter/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/urban-bench-made-from-marine-litter/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4b0c19f65..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/urban-bench-made-from-marine-litter/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Preparation of material - - The fishing nets arrive in our workshop clean and crushed, ready to be used in the heat press. - -• We mix it with the base material (polypropylene) taking care about the desired proportions and quantities. - -• Then we use a kind of industrial dryer to remove moisture. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/urban-bench-made-from-marine-litter/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/urban-bench-made-from-marine-litter/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 814e93001..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/urban-bench-made-from-marine-litter/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Manufacture of boards - - After having the material dry and mixed it's ready to take it to sheetpress. - -• For the elaboration of boards we use a sheetpress that allows us to manufacture boards of 220cm x 90cm and from 1cm to 3cm of thickness. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/urban-bench-made-from-marine-litter/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/urban-bench-made-from-marine-litter/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index a1a2d1c7a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/urban-bench-made-from-marine-litter/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Cutting and machining of boards - - Having a predefined design, we take the material to be machined on CNC cutting machine. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/urban-bench-made-from-marine-litter/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/urban-bench-made-from-marine-litter/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index bf0ebd0da..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/urban-bench-made-from-marine-litter/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Assembly of the bench - - Once we have the cut parts we continue with assembly of the bench and its structure - -Estrcutura metálica -uniones - recomendaciones, tips (tornillo) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/waist-bag-from-plastic-bags/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/waist-bag-from-plastic-bags/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4b2e0571d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/waist-bag-from-plastic-bags/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Waist bag from Plastic Bags - - -Here you will find step by step overview of the process of making a custom fashionable fanny pack / waist bag by fusing plastic bags and a bit of sewing. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/waist-bag-from-plastic-bags/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/waist-bag-from-plastic-bags/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 826acd8e9..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/waist-bag-from-plastic-bags/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,18 +0,0 @@ -### Preparation: Gather Materials and Tools - - Materials: -Plastic shopping bags -Strap - 1.5m -Zipper - 0.4m -Snap-fit buckle -Baking paper -Tape - -Tools: -Iron -Ironing board -Sewing machine -Sewing pins -Scissors -Marker -Lighter \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/waist-bag-from-plastic-bags/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/waist-bag-from-plastic-bags/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index ab73eaebc..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/waist-bag-from-plastic-bags/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Material Selection - - The process starts with plastic bag selection. Plastic comes in different types and shapes and it is important to work with similar material. As various types have their own physical properties, mixing material types in one project could be ineffective and lead to a non-recyclable waste. - -At the bottom of the bags there is usually a plastic type symbol (a number in triangle of arrows). While they look and feel the same, the type could be different so we need to sort them. - -In this project we will used LDPE (Light Density Poly Ethylene) - number 4 in the material type symbol. Hence, we will use a red and a yellow bags, shown in the photos. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/waist-bag-from-plastic-bags/step_10.md b/resources/howtos-oa/waist-bag-from-plastic-bags/step_10.md deleted file mode 100644 index 5a5e3c6e9..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/waist-bag-from-plastic-bags/step_10.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Final Notes - - The bag is now ready to use. Adjust the straps and wear this fashionable bag with pride cause you made it yourself! The bag should be ok with a few raindrops but I would not advise carrying it in the rain or similar situations. Be ready also for all the questions about how you made it. - -Also to note, the cool thing about the plastic bag leftovers is that these could be used again in the next plastic bag project. - -Thank you for following this tutorial, hope to see your versions of the bags. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/waist-bag-from-plastic-bags/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/waist-bag-from-plastic-bags/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index f9dd9d830..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/waist-bag-from-plastic-bags/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Material Preparation - - In order to get material ready, we need to fuse layers of plastic bags together using a home iron. This could easily be done at home with no risk of messing up the iron or anything around. - -The setup requires baking paper to be placed on an ironing board, two layers of bags placed over it and another layer of baking paper to be placed on top. Plastic bags should not stick out, otherwise there is a risk of melting them onto the board or the iron. - -The layers of bags are then ironed at the temperature somewhere between COTTON and LINEN settings. The iron has to be always moving and not stopping on any spot for too long as it might overheat the plastic. Plastic is to be ironed until it is completely fused. The more pressure you put into ironing, the more flat will the surface of the material be. This process to be repeated until you have 3-4 layers of plastic bags to allow for material durability. - -Given that the instructions are followed properly, no smell or fumes will be released, but for safety measures it is advised to work in a well ventilated room. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/waist-bag-from-plastic-bags/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/waist-bag-from-plastic-bags/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index db953127a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/waist-bag-from-plastic-bags/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Parts Preparation - - Now that all the plastic material is ready, we can make the parts. For this we use the parts outline PDF file above. The file needs to be printed (or hand drawn if you're into that). All dimensions in millimeters [mm]. - -Process flow: paper template part outline is cut out, traced onto the plastic. Part is then cut out. - -NB! One of the following steps (Step 6) could be skipped if the Top and Back parts are not cut separately, but rather combined into one part with markings. - -The photos attached (in order) Front Part, Top Part, Back. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/waist-bag-from-plastic-bags/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/waist-bag-from-plastic-bags/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 6b5ffe9ab..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/waist-bag-from-plastic-bags/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Sewing the Top Part to Zipper - - Mark the middle of the curve of the top part of the bag and arrange the middle of the zipper to align with the mark. To sew the parts, put the face of the zipper side with the side that you would want to keep as the outside of the bag together and sew them together with your favourite type of stitch. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/waist-bag-from-plastic-bags/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/waist-bag-from-plastic-bags/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 3c96b3bbd..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/waist-bag-from-plastic-bags/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Attach the Back Part - - With a simple straight stitch, connect the Top and the Back parts together. This step could be avoided if both parts came combined at the preparation stage. Sewing the parts together does help set the shape of the bag and will keep it more sturdy. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/waist-bag-from-plastic-bags/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/waist-bag-from-plastic-bags/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index c6e172516..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/waist-bag-from-plastic-bags/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Front Part + Zipper - - After choosing the face side of the front part, marking the middle and aligning the center of the zipper with the mark, sew the parts together. It would be helpful if the zipper can be taken apart and easily put back together as it will ease the sewing process. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/waist-bag-from-plastic-bags/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/waist-bag-from-plastic-bags/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index 03fe5fd6f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/waist-bag-from-plastic-bags/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Attaching the Strap - - Next we need to prepare the straps. - -The strap is cut into two equal pieces. Before we sew them on, it is necessary to make sure they do not come loose. To do that use the lighter, accurately heat up the ends of the strap. Do not put fire directly on the strap but rather have it close by. - -When the straps preparation is done, sew them to the inside of the Back part of the bag. The more threads you put at this point the stronger the bag will be. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/waist-bag-from-plastic-bags/step_8.md b/resources/howtos-oa/waist-bag-from-plastic-bags/step_8.md deleted file mode 100644 index 004ebcf08..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/waist-bag-from-plastic-bags/step_8.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Sew the Bag Together - - The hardest step so far. As all the necessary parts are all sewn together, we need to close the bag. This is done while the bag is turned inside out. Mark the middles of the Front part and the Back part. Align the parts together. The zipper has to be open to allow to turn the bag outside in. Make sure the straps end up on the right side of the bag (inside the bag during this step and outside after it is sewn). - -After sewing, turn the bag inside out / outside in. Make sure that all the corners are fully twisted out because it sets the overall shape of the bag. If everything is correct, the straps are outside and the bag looks like something on the photo. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/waist-bag-from-plastic-bags/step_9.md b/resources/howtos-oa/waist-bag-from-plastic-bags/step_9.md deleted file mode 100644 index 97d0c64c3..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/waist-bag-from-plastic-bags/step_9.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Finish the Straps - - Using the sewing pins roll the strap to make the ends. Make sure to put the snap-fit buckle on the strap first! - -To the best of your abilities sew the end. At this point the bag is ready, yay! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/wall-peg-mould/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/wall-peg-mould/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 656582915..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/wall-peg-mould/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Wall Peg mould - - -Here you will find the 3D model and blueprints to create the wall peg mold! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/wall-peg-mould/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/wall-peg-mould/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 55df99c00..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/wall-peg-mould/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Get your materials and prepare the work: - - Make sure you have all your materials ready and go through the drawings and steps to understand the full picture of the process. This will help you to work more efficiently and accurate. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/wall-peg-mould/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/wall-peg-mould/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8273101d8..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/wall-peg-mould/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Cut the nozzle nipple: - - With all the parts in the bag, let’s start cutting the steel pipe nipple (no. 7) in half to make the mold nozzle. (Drawings page 3). \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/wall-peg-mould/step_10.md b/resources/howtos-oa/wall-peg-mould/step_10.md deleted file mode 100644 index 5c07bd0e5..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/wall-peg-mould/step_10.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Cut the metal sheet - - From a thin metal sheet, cut part no. 6 and cut its corners to prevent injuries. With four nails, hammer it in the center of no. 5. (See drawings pages 11-12) diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/wall-peg-mould/step_11.md b/resources/howtos-oa/wall-peg-mould/step_11.md deleted file mode 100644 index 972954062..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/wall-peg-mould/step_11.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Drill the screw holder hole - - Drill a ⅛†hole in the center of parts no. 5 and 6. Insert a screw to create the thread in the wood. (See drawings pages 10-11-12) diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/wall-peg-mould/step_12.md b/resources/howtos-oa/wall-peg-mould/step_12.md deleted file mode 100644 index 6d28dc146..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/wall-peg-mould/step_12.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Done! - - And you’re done! Here is your Wall Peg mold. -Remember to put a new screw in the wooden mold base every time you are going to inject. If you forget, the hole will be filled with plastic and won’t work. But don’t worry! Drill it again and you are done. -To open the mold, take off the bolts sideways, then cut the plastic at the entrance and pull apart the mold parts. Then, unscrew the peg off the wooden part and you have your peg ready.. -Since the plug has some volume, it will take time to cool down and the outgoing screw will be soft. Avoid tilting it and make sure it is in the right position. -It will work with all the plastics and it is very easy and smooth to inject. Just explore and find your favorite plastics and mixtures. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/wall-peg-mould/step_13.md b/resources/howtos-oa/wall-peg-mould/step_13.md deleted file mode 100644 index a01f399c6..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/wall-peg-mould/step_13.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Happy hanging :) - - To install the peg on the wall, drill a hole and fix it by hand with a wall plug. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/wall-peg-mould/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/wall-peg-mould/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 57703bf68..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/wall-peg-mould/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Make the nozzle flange: - - Get the steel disc (no. 3) and turn a hole in the center with diameter to fit in tightly one half of the steel pipe nipple (part no. 7). (See drawings page 4) diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/wall-peg-mould/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/wall-peg-mould/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 61e957e5a..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/wall-peg-mould/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Turn the nozzle guide - - Turn one face of the flange to create a 3†diameter guide to fit the mold body no. 1: (See drawings page 4) diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/wall-peg-mould/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/wall-peg-mould/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index afe7c6c78..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/wall-peg-mould/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Weld the nozzle - - Weld no. 3 and no. 7 together. Then chamfer the welded edge on the lathe: (See drawings page 5) diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/wall-peg-mould/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/wall-peg-mould/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4038b2251..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/wall-peg-mould/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Drill the base center hole - - Get disc no. 4 and drill a 9/32†hole in the center. (See drawings page 6) diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/wall-peg-mould/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/wall-peg-mould/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index 1f28904ed..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/wall-peg-mould/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Drill and cut the screw holes - - Drill four holes in the border of discs no. 3-4 and cut its sides. (See drawings pages 4-6) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/wall-peg-mould/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/wall-peg-mould/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index b08043bec..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/wall-peg-mould/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Drill the base fixing holes - - Drill four more 3/16†holes in disc no. 4. (See drawings page 6) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/wall-peg-mould/step_8.md b/resources/howtos-oa/wall-peg-mould/step_8.md deleted file mode 100644 index ccfe112c7..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/wall-peg-mould/step_8.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Get your CNC turned parts - - To get that curved, smooth and shiny surface for the cavity of the mold, get the parts no. 1-2 and the 3D files, and take them to the best CNC lathe workshop in town. They will handle the different file extensions, but for any doubts, the drawings will make everything clear. (See drawings pages 7-8-9) diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/wall-peg-mould/step_9.md b/resources/howtos-oa/wall-peg-mould/step_9.md deleted file mode 100644 index 624564b8c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/wall-peg-mould/step_9.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Make the mold base - - Get part no. 5 and cut its corners tangent to a 3†circle (diameter of part no. 2). (See drawings page 10) diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-pre-wash/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-pre-wash/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index c9b44bff4..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-pre-wash/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Wash plastic: Pre-wash - - -Plastic needs to be clean before shredding to make the maintenance of the machine easier. Here we are going to explain how to build an easy pre-washing machine to get rid of the rough dirt. - -This machine integrates into a system with a sand filter and a washing machine. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-pre-wash/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-pre-wash/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 639d9e8b0..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-pre-wash/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Why not to wash everything by hand - - In a small scale, it can make sense to wash your plastic by hand with a brush and some soap. As soon as we have a bigger amount of dirty plastic though it isn’t economical anymore. It takes a lot of time and uses a lot of water - - So integrating a semi-automatic machine with a sand filter helps a lot. The water is constantly cleaned and can be used for a long time. As we don’t work on an industrial level, there is still plenty of manual work involved, but it is still a much more efficient solution. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-pre-wash/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-pre-wash/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7be9609f3..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-pre-wash/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,19 +0,0 @@ -### Get your materials - - For the pre-washing machine, we are going to need:
 -- a 120 litre HDPE barrel -- circa 13 m steel profile (30x30mm) -- 1120 x 16 mm steel pipe -- 300 x 30 mm flat steel -- some wood for the wooden board -- four casters and fittings according to the sand filter  -- two ball valves -- and flexible pipes (also according to the sand filter)
 - -- a motor with around 0.5 kW and 1500 r/m (can also be stronger) -- a frequency inverter fitting to the motor - -Optional: -
- another 120 liter HDPE barrel
 -- two more ball valves 
 -- heating element and PID controller diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-pre-wash/step_10.md b/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-pre-wash/step_10.md deleted file mode 100644 index 36fb95ee9..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-pre-wash/step_10.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11 +0,0 @@ -### Complete setup - - Nice one, you're ready to pre-wash :) - -To build the complete setup with sand filter and washing machine, have a look at our How-To's here: - -Wash plastic: Sand filter -👉 https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/wash-plastic-sand-filter- - -Wash plastic: Washing machine -👉 https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/wash-plastic-washing-machine \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-pre-wash/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-pre-wash/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index f2f4ebda1..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-pre-wash/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Prepare the barrel - - We start by preparing the barrel. - -All you have to do is remove the handles and drill two holes. One at the very top and one at the bottom of the barrel, so you are able to pump out all the water. - -Use a 35 mm Forstner drill bit for the holes. Now you can attach the fittings. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-pre-wash/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-pre-wash/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 263dcb46c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-pre-wash/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Build the mobile base - - To be able to move the barrel (filled with water), we build a solid board with some casters. - -Cut wood plates to size, make sure they are strong enough to carry at least 100 kg and attach fitting casters. In the middle we need a hole, so the water outlet has a way to go. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-pre-wash/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-pre-wash/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 0100d32a6..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-pre-wash/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Build the frame - - To build the steel frame is a simple welding job. Cut your steel tubes according to the measurements in the picture. - -Drill two 17mm holes above each other in the centre of the frame to add profiles which will keep the mixer shaft in a vertical position. -
To ensure that the frame always stands stable and straight, weld four nuts into the legs and add bolts with which you can adjust the height individually. - -Once everything is done, give it a proper paint job, to prevent it from rusting (as it can get very wet). \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-pre-wash/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-pre-wash/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8b4d5074f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-pre-wash/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Build the mixer - - The mixer should move the dirty plastic through the water. After some experiments and tests, this seemed to be the most efficient design for us. Short “arms†ensure that the plastic gets mixed without getting stuck. - -Weld the metal sheets to to the steel pipe as shown.
Drill two ø8mm holes on different heights of the steel pipe, so it can be fixed in two different positions: One to mix and one to move the barrel out underneath it. - -You will also need a smaller hole to attach the gear later, but the location depends on how you will connect it. 
When done, paint it properly (or even better is to use stainless steel, because the friction will remove the paint fast). -Finally, drill a 20 mm hole in the centre of the lid, so the mixer can enter the barrel. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-pre-wash/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-pre-wash/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index 566ec4cf6..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-pre-wash/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Attach the motor - - Attach the motor parallel to the mixer shaft. The position and the way how you do it depends a lot on your motor, but in general it is pretty straight forward. - -Once the motor is fixed, connect it with the frequency inverter, so you are able to change the speed later on. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-pre-wash/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-pre-wash/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index 718065212..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-pre-wash/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### The gear - - The connection between motor and shaft is very simple: Two same sized gears from multiplex - one fixed to the motor, the other one on the shaft which can be lifted up. - -The connection to the shaft is made in a very simple way, as you can see on the pictures, but feel free to use a more conventional method. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-pre-wash/step_8.md b/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-pre-wash/step_8.md deleted file mode 100644 index defcc3c62..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-pre-wash/step_8.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Extra barrel with a heating element - - Some contaminants, especially oil and fat, are difficult to remove without warm water. Furthermore it’s very useful to have a second barrel to pump in the water from the first barrel if you need to clean it or reach plastic on the bottom. - -
We prepare this barrel in exactly the same way as in step 3, but add a heating element and a PID controller. Heating elements can come in many forms, for example from deep fryers. You need to find solid, waterproof way to connect it to the barrel. - -Afterwards, place the thermometer from the PID in the tank and connect the pipes to the system. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-pre-wash/step_9.md b/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-pre-wash/step_9.md deleted file mode 100644 index 5eb2fcf11..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-pre-wash/step_9.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### How to pre-wash - - Now it is time to connect all the pipes to the barrels and the sand filter. Fill up with water and you are good to go.
 Before using the pre-washing machine, we recommend to reduce the size of bigger plastic pieces and to remove the very rough dirt like sauces etc. - -Mix the water in the pre-washing machine with laundry powder or soap, turn on the sand filter so there is a constant loop of water splashing at the plastic and let the motor run.
 - -After a few minutes, your plastic should be clean enough to shred. You can experiment with temperature, the amount of soap and the motor speed. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-sand-filter-/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-sand-filter-/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8656410b0..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-sand-filter-/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Wash plastic: Sand filter - - -Washing plastics is a pretty dirty process. We’re dealing with organic contaminants, chemical waste but also lots of micro plastics. Being able to filter this water is very important. -There are many different filters, but a pressurised sand filter (Rapid Sand Filter) proved to be the most effective and accessible choice. Here we will explain how you can build and run it. - -This machine integrates into a system with a pre-washing and a washing machine. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-sand-filter-/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-sand-filter-/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 02568def2..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-sand-filter-/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Why a sand filter and how it works - - There are many types of filters and most of them (at least the simple ones) work with sort of a membrane, which keeps the dirt. The big problem with these is though, that they will eventually clog up and then need to be cleaned or replaced. On top of that, they can be quite expensive and hard to get. - -
The process of rapid sand filtration uses filter sand as a membrane, which is way easier to get. Dirty water is pumped through a thick layer of sand, which keeps a high amount of contaminants. The advantage of this filter is that the sand is easy to clean through a process called backwashing. Big versions of it are used in public water recycling facilities, but there is also a smaller version used to clean swimming pools, which is more interesting for us. - -So there are two options, either buy one or make one. We recommend to first check out what’s available (to save time and maybe even costs), but here we provide a manual for everyone who want or have to build it themselves. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-sand-filter-/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-sand-filter-/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 810021fac..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-sand-filter-/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,22 +0,0 @@ -### Get your materials - - For this size of the filter, we are going to need: -- 30 litre HDPE barrel -- PVC pipes, fittings and one-inch hoses -- silicone or another flexible sealant -- a pump with roughly 650 watts and 3800 litres/hour flow rate (though any similar sized garden pump should work) - -- filter sand, grain size 0.4 - 0.8mm
 -- a pre-filter to avoid big contaminants to clog up the pump -- a waterproof manometer with a pressure range between 0-3 bar - -- roughly 7m steel profiles (30x30) -- 6x 8mm bolts -- 4x casters - -Tools: -- drill -- saw -- aligator wrench -- hot air gun or oven (to heat up plastic) -- welding machine \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-sand-filter-/step_10.md b/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-sand-filter-/step_10.md deleted file mode 100644 index 6d85a5e6f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-sand-filter-/step_10.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### How to understand the manometer - - The manometer is the only instrument we have to understand the filter. Rising and dropping pressure tells a lot about the condition of the system. - -Two things can happen: -1 - The pump has problems to suck the water, then the pressure in the filter sinks. This can either mean that the pre-filter needs cleaning or that there is a blockage in the pipes before. -2 - The pressure rises. That means there is a bigger resistance behind the pump. If it only increases a little, it means the filter clogs up and at a certain point it needs to be backwashed. If the pressure suddenly rises a lot, it probably means that there is no exit for the water. If this happens, turn off the pump right away, as it can build up pressure to 3.6 bar which can damage the filter. - -To determine the correct pressure, run it with absolute clean sand and mark the value on the manometer. The best time to do this is when the filter is set up for the first time. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-sand-filter-/step_11.md b/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-sand-filter-/step_11.md deleted file mode 100644 index 50a41d745..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-sand-filter-/step_11.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### How to clean the filter: Backwashing - - Once the sand clogged up too much and the manometer shows a high pressure, it is time to clean it. For this, the sand filter uses a process called backwashing. Clean water is pumped through the output of the filter and finds its way out through the input. While doing this, it’s forced to pass the sand from the opposite way, the sand and dirt float up, but only the dirt is light enough to go out with the water. - -Roughly one 120 litre barrel of water passes this way. The water is collected and can get cleaned with a single-use filter to have it further in the system. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-sand-filter-/step_12.md b/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-sand-filter-/step_12.md deleted file mode 100644 index 50df9ca08..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-sand-filter-/step_12.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Single-use filter - - A very basic way of filtering is polyester wool. Very accessible and cheap, but plastic and usable only once. So use it with care. -To build it, we need a casing for the wool, like a sealable plastic box. Drill holes for the fittings and build a simple clamp system to keep it properly closed. - -It works best if put in line before the pump, so a vacuum is created inside the box and the lid does not open. Fill it up with wool, with light pressure, but not too much as the pump won’t manage to suck the water through it otherwise. The wool should have enough capacity to empty one dirty barrel, this is depending on the amount of dirt and size of box. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-sand-filter-/step_13.md b/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-sand-filter-/step_13.md deleted file mode 100644 index b7f4e3616..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-sand-filter-/step_13.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Cleaning the pre-filter - - Cleaning the pre-filter is simple, but needs to be done quite frequently. - -First, pump the water out. For this, you turn it upside down, turn on the pump and then unscrew it. 
The filter capsule then can be taken out, without dirty plastic water all over the place.
 - -Take a dry dishwashing brush and brush the dirt off the membrane into a container, as it contains lots of micro plastic and you want to avoid it getting into the drainage. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-sand-filter-/step_14.md b/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-sand-filter-/step_14.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9e1da7f4d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-sand-filter-/step_14.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11 +0,0 @@ -### Complete setup - - Nice one, you're ready to pre-wash :) - -To build the complete setup with sand filter and washing machine, have a look at our How-To's here: - -Wash plastic: Pre-wash -👉 https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/wash-plastic-pre-wash - -Wash plastic: Washing machine -👉 https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/wash-plastic-washing-machine \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-sand-filter-/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-sand-filter-/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 81412d196..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-sand-filter-/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Drill holes in the barrel - - We start by preparing the barrel. All you have to do is remove the handles and drill three holes. - -Mark the centres of the holes according to the measurements on the picture. Try to use a 45 mm Forstner drill bit for the big holes and a 20 mm one for the smaller hole (you can easily sand off the extra milimeter). \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-sand-filter-/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-sand-filter-/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 01f52a1f0..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-sand-filter-/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Build the inside with PVC pipes - - The heart of the filter is the pipe system inside. PVC pipes offer an available, easy to handle and robust solution for that. You can cut them with a hand saw or a metal chop saw and seal them with PVC glue. To connect them to the barrel you need to find threaded Bulkhead fittings with a PVC adapter. - -As the bottom pipe lies beneath the sand, we need to avoid sand getting in there, but the water should pass easily. A fine mesh, from stainless steel or plastic, works the best. - -It is important to have a big opening at the bottom pipe, so the water can be pushed through the sand more easily. Big PVC adapter pieces work very well for this purpose, as they are available with a lid, which is perfect to keep the mesh in place. If not available, there are many other ways to reach the same results. Just keep in mind to create a big area for the water to pass through and a mesh or small holes to keep the sand out of the tube. - -The size of the pipes should be 40 mm, but if you can only get 30 mm it will also work. On the sketches, you see the exact measurements the pipes need to have to fit into the barrel and the holes we drilled before. You can also see what kind of fittings to get (feel free to improvise here). \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-sand-filter-/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-sand-filter-/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4460482f7..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-sand-filter-/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11 +0,0 @@ -### Build the inside with PVC pipes - - Drilling holes in the barrel weakens the structure. As there will be pressure of more than 1 bar on it later on, reinforcing that part is needed to avoid damage.
 - -Cut a thick piece of HDPE roughly 200 x 120 mm and again drill two holes with the 45 mm Forstner drill bit, with the same distance as in the barrel. - -As the HDPE sheet is flat and the barrel is round it needs to be brought in to the same shape. 
Heat up the sheet with a hot air gun (wear a mask!) or in the oven until it is soft enough to be reshaped easily. - -Put on work gloves and use the bulkhead fittings to tighten the soft sheet inside the barrel. This way it will copy the exact form. - -Once cooled down remove the bulkhead fittings, apply silicone or HDPE glue to the sheet and tighten again with the fittings. Now let the glue cure and the reinforcement is done. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-sand-filter-/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-sand-filter-/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 491957434..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-sand-filter-/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Fix the inside parts - - Start with installing the manometer, either find one with a coupling on the back or use the right fittings so that it faces to the front. After that, you install the PVC pipes with the right washers and tighten everything carefully with an alligator wrench. Make sure not to break the plastic threads. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-sand-filter-/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-sand-filter-/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index ee51a1367..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-sand-filter-/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Seal the lid - - The lid of the barrel usually comes with a rubber sealant, but in our experiences it was not good enough and broke easily. Proper sealing can be achieved by filling up the gap where the rubber was sitting with silicone or another flexible sealant of good quality. - -In this case, Sikaflex is used. Apply it roughly 5mm thick and flatten with the head of a screwdriver or similar object. Make sure to let it dry for the appropriate amount of time (mentioned in the data sheet of the sealant). \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-sand-filter-/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-sand-filter-/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index 45dd615ce..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-sand-filter-/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Building the lid reinforcement - - The barrel is going to sit inside a metal frame to enable it to hold pressure. The lid is not constructed to keep pressure from the inside, so it needs reinforcement from the top. - -A flat surface will ensure the pressure to be distributed equally. To achieve this, cut out two circles of wood or plastic. -
Small circle: ø 240mm, 9mm high -Big circle: ø 260 mm, 18mm high - -When they are cut in size lay them in the lid and proceed with building the frame. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-sand-filter-/step_8.md b/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-sand-filter-/step_8.md deleted file mode 100644 index 75a2d26f8..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-sand-filter-/step_8.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Build the Frame - - The frame provides a solid structure to bring the filter and the pump together and add some casters to make it mobile. To build the frame, cut your steel tubes to the required measurements and weld them together as shown in the picture. - -In addition to this, we use a metal cross to bolt the lid down. Carefully align the holes with the nuts, so the bolts will fit smoothly. One way to do this is to first build the cross, put the bolts in the holes, screw the nuts on the bolts, put the cross in place and weld the nuts to the frame. - -When all is done, paint the frame frame thoroughly, to prevent it from rusting (as it will be wet frequently).
 \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-sand-filter-/step_9.md b/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-sand-filter-/step_9.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2fc7c05eb..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-sand-filter-/step_9.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11 +0,0 @@ -### Put everything together and fill up with sand - - Finally, all the pieces are ready and we can assemble the filter. - -First of all, cut a wooden board for the barrel to stand on, and put it in the frame. - -Put in the barrel, fill up with sand until around 320 mm height, or barely covering the lower PVC pipe (here you should experiment to reach the desired pressure of around one bar). - -Add the lid and tighten the bolts (later on you might need to fasten them a little more, if it is not sealed enough). - -Now it’s time to install the pump with two bolts, attach the pre-filter and the 1m long connecting hose. At this step, the filter is done and can be connected to the water system. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-washing-machine/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-washing-machine/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 160ab5f21..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-washing-machine/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Wash Plastic: Washing Machine - - -Different steps are necessary to make plastic clean. First is the prewashing after the plastic can be shredded, but it will still contain some oils, glue remains or even paper. To get rid of this we need water, soap, heat, and friction. Building a machine, which can do all of this takes time and costs a lot of money. So instead we are going to use a washing machine. It is accessible, cheap and integrates with a few modifications perfectly in an existing sand filter system. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-washing-machine/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-washing-machine/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index ab84c400d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-washing-machine/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Why a washing machine? - - A washing machine offers a commonly available machine with functions we can make use of. It provides heated water, which helps to remove oils and dissolves many contaminants. It creates friction through spinning, which scrubs plastic against each other and takes of dirt. It has multiple flushing cycles to get out of the old water and centrifugation helps to dry the plastic. Though we need to shred the plastic before because unshredded plastic has a huge volume and a washing machine has only a little space. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-washing-machine/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-washing-machine/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 0623fbebf..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-washing-machine/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,12 +0,0 @@ -### Get your materials - - For the washing machine, we are going to need: -- a 120 liter HDPE barrel -- a washing machine with a rather big drum capacity -- a sand filter 👉 https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/wash-plastic-sand-filter- -- 1†24V solenoid valve -- flexible pipes (also according to the sand filter) -- relay 240V -- 240V to 24VAC Trafo -- 3 Switches -- cables etc. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-washing-machine/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-washing-machine/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index bb3f764de..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-washing-machine/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Removing everything we don’t need - - We pump water straight into the drum with our own pump, which means we will not need any of the mixers and can remove everything until the connection to the drum. The process depends on your machine but should be doable with basic tools. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-washing-machine/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-washing-machine/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8a30ae336..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-washing-machine/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Modifications on the machine - - After clearing up the machine, we can start with our modifications. -First, attach the solenoid valve to the drum inlet and tighten it well. Here we will later connect the water pump. -Second, we need to connect to a signal from the machine to control when the pump will turn on and off, so it doesn’t have to run nonstop. In this case, we found the signal in a cable going to the machine’s small solenoid valve. Split the cable and connect your own. -â—Careful here, this signal can be 220Volt! 💀 -Now we guide out the cables from the valve and signal so we can connect it later to our electronics box. Once that’s done we cut a hole in the lid of the machine and put it back on. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-washing-machine/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-washing-machine/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index d56b17b79..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-washing-machine/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Electronics - - This step is still under development and has to be taken fully on your own risk. In our case, it worked but the box would need a better layout design to make it safer. -What we are doing is: -The main switch which turns on/off everything, this means we also lead the power cable from the washing machine into this box. We have a switch that changes the state of the pump between always on and on on-demand. When the pump turns on, also the solenoid valve needs to open, so we reach that with a 220V to 24VAC transformer, which also interacts with the relay. It doesn’t open when the pump is in the function always on. I also moved the electronics from the pump into my box, to keep everything together. -If you also have a Pre-Washing Station with a heated water barrel going, then you should also move the PID controller and a switch for it into this box. -â—Again to emphasize, this is not a professional setup and you should act with care and knowledge. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-washing-machine/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-washing-machine/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9a0dce069..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-washing-machine/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### The washing bag 1 - - We use shreds in the washing machine because this way we can process way more material at the same time. But just putting the shredded plastic in the drum would result in blocked pumps and create chaos. So we experimented with bags. Our design is made of a strong polyester textile, with strongly reinforced stitches and a good quality zipper. We recommend making it rather long so it is easier to stuff it into the machine when filled with shreds. Also, we added a strong mash in the bag so dirt and small particles can leave, to reach a better result. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-washing-machine/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-washing-machine/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9167e64bf..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-washing-machine/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### The washing bag 2 - - Our bag is designed so you can just hang it straight beneath your shredder and put it in the machine afterward. The zipper is zipped up into a little pocket so it doesn’t open up while washing. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-washing-machine/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-washing-machine/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index c264eb744..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-washing-machine/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Put everything together - - Now you connect the machine with the sand filter and your barrel system. The machine has an inlet, where you connect the sand filter and an outlet which leads to the reservoir barrel, that’s it. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-washing-machine/step_8.md b/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-washing-machine/step_8.md deleted file mode 100644 index 6967ece36..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-washing-machine/step_8.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Run your washing system - - Now fill the bag with pre-washed shreds and put it in the machine. We recommend adding a little bit of laundry detergent, which helps to remove the last bits of oil. The settings of the machine depend on the grade of contamination. Usually, we use the 40-degree quick wash program. Afterward, hang it up so the last bit of moisture can go away. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-washing-machine/step_9.md b/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-washing-machine/step_9.md deleted file mode 100644 index 26bb2d675..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/wash-plastic-washing-machine/step_9.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Turn it into something new! - - Now you have your clean plastic and you can create some beautiful Precious Plastic products with it. -Though as mentioned this is not finished development, but already works and can give you a good starting point. Feel free to test and modify and share back if you find other good solutions! -â—Be extra careful with the electronics as everything runs on 220 Volts and you have to deal with a lot of water.â— -But if everything works you have a very efficient system to process large amounts of dirty plastic for your workspace. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/wedoo-automatic-baler-machine/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/wedoo-automatic-baler-machine/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index ddb8abd9e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/wedoo-automatic-baler-machine/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,12 +0,0 @@ -### Wedoo automatic baler machine - - -Specification: -Work Area 500x500x500mm -Pressure 100 Bar Max -Hydraulic Bore 60mm -Dynamo 5,5 HP 3 Phase -Frame H-Beam 100 -Weight Per Ball 40-70kg - -Wedoo's automatic baler operates using hydraulic pressure to compress waste into a compact form, which is then tied or wrapped with twine or wire to keep it together. The machine requires minimal human intervention, reducing the risk of accidents and injuries. Using automatic baler or bottle press machines has numerous benefits, including reducing the amount of space needed to store waste materials, which is especially beneficial in areas where land is scarce. It also reduces the frequency of waste collections, which reduces the carbon footprint of waste management operations. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/wedoo-automatic-baler-machine/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/wedoo-automatic-baler-machine/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index de1ebed1d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/wedoo-automatic-baler-machine/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,21 +0,0 @@ -### Download - - First off, here is your download package for this machine! - -In this folder you will find: - -- 3D CAD (.step and .igs) -- Lasercut files (.dxf) -- Blueprints (.pdf) -- Schematics -- BOM - - -For Autodesk inventor users, we provided: -.iam = (assembly) -.Idw (construction drawings) -.Ipt (parts) - -We also provide some in-depth pictures and videos in this link -https://photos.app.goo.gl/7ALBkSbWRh6VzzaK9 - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/wedoo-automatic-baler-machine/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/wedoo-automatic-baler-machine/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4aee20e6c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/wedoo-automatic-baler-machine/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,28 +0,0 @@ -### Required skills and tools - - These are the required skills and machinery you or your machine builder will need to have access to these skills and tools: - -- General metalworking (cutting, drilling) -- Welding -- Turning (machining on a lathe) -- Milling (machining on a mill) ---plasmacutting (this can easily be subcontracted around the world) -- General electrical work (wiring safety switch, temperature controllers…) -- Painting compressor and tools (optional) -- drilling with drill press and handheld drill - - -âš™ï¸ Machinery / specific tools needed: -- Grinder, chop saw, MIG/MAG or TIG, drill press -- Lathe, mill (CNC) -- welding machine -- Milling machine -- compressor (for painting) -- Plasma/laser cutting (this can easily be subcontracted around the world) -- lathe - -PPE -- Mask -- Welding helmet -- safety googles -- heat gloves \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/wedoo-automatic-baler-machine/step_10.md b/resources/howtos-oa/wedoo-automatic-baler-machine/step_10.md deleted file mode 100644 index 44e97c0b1..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/wedoo-automatic-baler-machine/step_10.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Optional step: paint - - Test your machine to make sure it works properly. - -Once you are sure that all the parts are working well, disassemble all the component before painting the frame - - - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/wedoo-automatic-baler-machine/step_11.md b/resources/howtos-oa/wedoo-automatic-baler-machine/step_11.md deleted file mode 100644 index e4ea7930f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/wedoo-automatic-baler-machine/step_11.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,13 +0,0 @@ -### Time to press! - - We recommend placing your machine on a leveled floor and it's even better if you can screw the machine to the floor too for more stability. - -1. Line the thread/rope you are using to bale -2. load material you want to press to the chamber the door -3. Lock the door -4. Turn on the power -5. Lower Handle valve until pressure gauge gets to 100 bar (max hydraulic capacity -6. Release -7.Add more plastic until you achieve your desired dimension and repeat the process -8. Open the door -9.Tie the baled material diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/wedoo-automatic-baler-machine/step_12.md b/resources/howtos-oa/wedoo-automatic-baler-machine/step_12.md deleted file mode 100644 index 589dcf4a4..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/wedoo-automatic-baler-machine/step_12.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Let us know how it goes! - - We believe that open source technology is crucial for the development of sustainable solutions that can be shared and improved upon by a global community of makers, engineers, and designers. By making our design open source, we hope to encourage collaboration, innovation, and creativity. - -We would love to hear your thoughts, feedback, and suggestions for the design and development of our open source automatic baler machine. Whether you are an experienced engineer or a curious maker, your input and ideas are invaluable to us. Please visit our Precious plastic profile for our contact information - -Let's work together to create a more sustainable future! -Thank you, -Wedoo team diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/wedoo-automatic-baler-machine/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/wedoo-automatic-baler-machine/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 42b700161..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/wedoo-automatic-baler-machine/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### cut the parts - - Download the plasma cutter files and follow the instructions and cut your machine parts according to the thickness of the metal plate . You can also bring these sets of files to a local machine builder to get it cut there. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/wedoo-automatic-baler-machine/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/wedoo-automatic-baler-machine/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index c74ff1244..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/wedoo-automatic-baler-machine/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Build the main frame - - Cut and build the main frame according to the design -for the base of the baler, you will need to build a 'platform' grid for the twine/string to go through -this requires precision in welding to create both the individual 'grid' and to place it precisely on the bottom of the frame. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/wedoo-automatic-baler-machine/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/wedoo-automatic-baler-machine/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 59fafe1c4..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/wedoo-automatic-baler-machine/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Make the hinge - - Hinge are consisted of two parts, the one that are fixed to the door and the one that are fixed to the frame. -you can cut all the parts with the plasma cutter and weld the assembly together. - -once hinges and locks are made, we recommend to attach the hinges on the main frame first (check step 7) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/wedoo-automatic-baler-machine/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/wedoo-automatic-baler-machine/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 740e18d34..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/wedoo-automatic-baler-machine/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Build the door - - All four sides of the door have different placement of hinge and lock so make sure you follow the design properly. - -We designed the front door with a fold down feature for more ergonomic access to load materials into the machine - -If you are unsure about your ability to weld things precisely, we recommend you to not attach the hinge to the door before making sure all your components are aligned (see step 7) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/wedoo-automatic-baler-machine/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/wedoo-automatic-baler-machine/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index c13419f13..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/wedoo-automatic-baler-machine/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,13 +0,0 @@ -### IMPORTANT: Hinge and Door alignment - - -To make sure that your door are aligned properly, only weld your hinge to the door after you position the door in the right place. Following the hinge on the frame as a guide to make sure it moves smoothly - -You can weld a temporary ‘staple’ like in the picture as a support or scaffold to aid the hinge alignment - -weld the hinges to the door according to alignment with the frame then remove the temporary welded 'scaffold' - - -Make sure to remove excess materials from the welding process .When it is aligned properly, all the hinges and the locks should run smoothly. You should be able to open and close all the 4 doors smoothly - - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/wedoo-automatic-baler-machine/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/wedoo-automatic-baler-machine/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2410944d9..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/wedoo-automatic-baler-machine/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Build oil tank and case for the motor - - Build oil tank and case for the motor - -Make sure there are no leaks in the seams - -attach it to the top part of the baler according to the 3D drawing. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/wedoo-automatic-baler-machine/step_8.md b/resources/howtos-oa/wedoo-automatic-baler-machine/step_8.md deleted file mode 100644 index 54ee7ef92..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/wedoo-automatic-baler-machine/step_8.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Assemble the hydraulic - - This needs a few people to do as the hydraulics are very heavy two strong persons needs to be at top as a receiver, two other lifting the hydraulic and one securing it from underneath. - -lift the hydraulic up and secure it in position \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/wedoo-automatic-baler-machine/step_9.md b/resources/howtos-oa/wedoo-automatic-baler-machine/step_9.md deleted file mode 100644 index 04bc759ec..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/wedoo-automatic-baler-machine/step_9.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Assembling the remaining component and test - - Attach the remaining components: -- oil tank -- oil pump -- motor -- all the pipes -- electrical (please see the schematics drawing) diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/weld-a-mould-to-make-colourful-tiles-from-plastic-/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/weld-a-mould-to-make-colourful-tiles-from-plastic-/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 398f09aa8..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/weld-a-mould-to-make-colourful-tiles-from-plastic-/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Weld a mould to make colourful tiles from plastic - - -Taco will show you a simple technique to weld a mould to make colourful recycled tiles. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/weld-a-mould-to-make-colourful-tiles-from-plastic-/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/weld-a-mould-to-make-colourful-tiles-from-plastic-/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2006c2113..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/weld-a-mould-to-make-colourful-tiles-from-plastic-/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,13 +0,0 @@ -### Gather everything you need - - Before you start get all your gear ready: -- Respirator mask -- Metal -- Bolts and nuts -- Plastic (PE, PP, PS) -- Angle grinder -- Drill -- Welding machine -- Sanding paper -- Injection machine -- Plastic Type Stamp \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/weld-a-mould-to-make-colourful-tiles-from-plastic-/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/weld-a-mould-to-make-colourful-tiles-from-plastic-/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 2166cea94..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/weld-a-mould-to-make-colourful-tiles-from-plastic-/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Watch this video tutorial - - Watch this video tutorial to learn step-by-step how to make the octagonal mould, polish it and inject a classic recycled tile. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/weld-a-mould-to-make-colourful-tiles-from-plastic-/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/weld-a-mould-to-make-colourful-tiles-from-plastic-/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index b317cb068..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/weld-a-mould-to-make-colourful-tiles-from-plastic-/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Done & Share - - After watching this video you should understand the basics of wedling moulds. You can reproduce the tile or try to make other products. We’re looking forward to seeing what you can come up with. Make sure to share back your new creations so the community can learn from you. Tag #preciousplastic on social media, create a new how-to or send us an email. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/weld-a-mould-to-make-colourful-tiles-from-plastic-/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/weld-a-mould-to-make-colourful-tiles-from-plastic-/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index c50012836..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/weld-a-mould-to-make-colourful-tiles-from-plastic-/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### (optional) Lasercut the mould - - This technique was originally released in V3. By now many community members around the world used and upgraded it. Lasercutting is a common technique for it so you can easily make many different shapes and sizes. There are also many variations for sale in our bazar. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/weld-plastic-heat-gun/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/weld-plastic-heat-gun/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index e609e3cb1..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/weld-plastic-heat-gun/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Weld plastic: Heat gun - - -With the heat gun you can weld two pieces of the same plastic type together. -Here you’ll find some tips for this technique. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/weld-plastic-heat-gun/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/weld-plastic-heat-gun/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index d0491341e..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/weld-plastic-heat-gun/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### Stay safe - - When talking about safety, we are only referring to precautions about working specifically with plastic, as it’s our thing. Working with machines like the table saw requires a certain level of expertise, so please take all the precautions related with how the machines work. - -As we are melting plastic, bad fumes can be released. In order to work safer, make sure to use a gas mask with ABEK filters to prevent inhaling possibly toxic fumes. Special attention on plastics like PS and PVC. Also when handling with heated elements we recommend to wear working gloves. - -Recommended safety equipment: -- ABEK mask -- gloves diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/weld-plastic-heat-gun/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/weld-plastic-heat-gun/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 46041fbff..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/weld-plastic-heat-gun/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Gather your tools for welding - - Welding is a process in which we join two parts together by applying heat and adding a filler of the same material in between the parts. -In order to do this we are using a hot gun with a specific nozzle that helps us to spread the melted material on the surfaces which we want to weld. This nozzle will concentrate the heat on the welding line and will guide the stick in the process. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/weld-plastic-heat-gun/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/weld-plastic-heat-gun/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4b7186ea6..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/weld-plastic-heat-gun/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Prepare the edges - - In order to maximise the welding surface, we make a chamfer along the sides of both pieces. For that you can use a manual milling machine or a hand router with a V shape tool. -By making a chamfer we are increasing the surface that will be melted together with the welding line and therefore we’ll create a stronger weld. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/weld-plastic-heat-gun/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/weld-plastic-heat-gun/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8f2349058..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/weld-plastic-heat-gun/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Make a welding stick - - We will need a plastic stick to weld the pieces together. It’s very important that the welding material comes from the same source as your pieces, otherwise the weld might not be homogeneous. - -The stick can be made in many ways, it can be extruded or it can be cut out of a sheet, like it is shown here. The important part is that it’s as consistent as possible and also fits inside the welding tool. Generally something between 2-4mm should work. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/weld-plastic-heat-gun/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/weld-plastic-heat-gun/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7b1d8d055..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/weld-plastic-heat-gun/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Prepare the heat gun - - Set the temperature of the heat gun significantly higher than the melting temperature of the plastic you are welding. -In this case we are welding HDPE with a temperature around 100ºC above the melting point, since we want to quickly melt both the surface and the stick. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/weld-plastic-heat-gun/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/weld-plastic-heat-gun/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index ef9413472..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/weld-plastic-heat-gun/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Clamp the pieces - - During the process we will apply pressure, so we need to clamp the pieces together tightly in order to avoid undesired movements while welding.  \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/weld-plastic-heat-gun/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/weld-plastic-heat-gun/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index 0fe29917b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/weld-plastic-heat-gun/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Weld - - Wait until the heat gun reaches the desired temperature, then put the heat gun welding nozzle right over the groove. Gently press the stick through the nozzle and follow the groove slowly but steady. In order to achieve a uniform welding we need to give the heat gun enough time to melt both the stick and the surfaces. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/weld-plastic-heat-gun/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/weld-plastic-heat-gun/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index 5e566474c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/weld-plastic-heat-gun/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Done - - If the welding has been done correctly both pieces should be fused together with the added material. A good way to see the result is by cutting through the piece and checking the consistency on the welded area. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/weld-plastic-parts-together/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/weld-plastic-parts-together/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 407a9e354..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/weld-plastic-parts-together/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Weld plastic parts together - - -If you want to join several plastic parts together, you can join them together at the joint surfaces with a simple soldering iron. -It's quick and you don't need any additional material. â™»ï¸ðŸ‘Œ \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/weld-plastic-parts-together/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/weld-plastic-parts-together/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index a86aa9a2f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/weld-plastic-parts-together/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Choose your soldering tip - - A very stable connection is created when the connection surfaces are first welded deeper and then at the edge. -For the deeper welding, a thin soldering tip is suitable and for the edge seam a larger one. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/weld-plastic-parts-together/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/weld-plastic-parts-together/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 53bf39c2b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/weld-plastic-parts-together/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Choose the welding temperature - - Do some temperature tests. -I use around 250 ° C for HDPE and 270 ° C for PP. -Please use a gas mask for this work! -See also: https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/plastic/safety \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/weld-plastic-parts-together/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/weld-plastic-parts-together/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8b4ffd65b..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/weld-plastic-parts-together/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Weld it - - Position the parts and fix / clamp them. -Weld the parts first with the thin soldering tip and then with the thick soldering tip. Not too fast! -Check the connection and change the parameters: temperature, welding depth and speed if necessary. -Happy melting! diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/weld-plastic-parts-together/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/weld-plastic-parts-together/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 6738586df..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/weld-plastic-parts-together/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11 +0,0 @@ -### How to make the lamps - - The recycling guy in this video shows how he combines 12 plates to one hanging lamp ;) -In addition to HDPE, you can also use this welding technique with PP. LDPE or PS. -After welding, you can also improve the edges. I rub with additional hard plastic over the edges, but you can also polish. - -For more information about the lamps visit https://johannplasto.de/.de or -https://www.instagram.com/johannplasto/ - -Greets! 🙂 -Thomas \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/weld-plastic-professionally/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/weld-plastic-professionally/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 232b89ce0..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/weld-plastic-professionally/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Weld plastic professionally - - -Here we show you the process of plastic welding and a variety of applications using a heatgun (lowtech) and a professional plastic welding gun. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/weld-plastic-professionally/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/weld-plastic-professionally/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index dd77718b0..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/weld-plastic-professionally/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Watch - - In this video we show you: -- the equipment that can be used for plastic welding and how it works -- how to make a "sandwich plank" (a big beam out of normal plastic planks) -- how to make a T-profile -- how to seal gaps of a boat hull \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/weld-plastic-professionally/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/weld-plastic-professionally/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 3d11a5b4c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/weld-plastic-professionally/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Try it yourself! - - There is so many more things you could do with this technique - let your creativity flow! - -You can try this technique in a low-tech way with a conventional heat gun, -- or maybe you even get the professional tool, -- OR maybe you can even come up with a modification for a heatgun to do it more professionally? -Let us know! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/weld-plastic-professionally/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/weld-plastic-professionally/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 5a41542d9..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/weld-plastic-professionally/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Share your results :) - - We would love to hear if this helped or inspired you to use this technique for your creations. -So make sure to let us know (you can tag or send us photos on instagram @​​​​theflipflopi) or find other ways to share your results :) - -Have fun! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/work-with-hdpe-and-make-a-recycled-pen/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/work-with-hdpe-and-make-a-recycled-pen/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 168def911..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/work-with-hdpe-and-make-a-recycled-pen/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Work with HDPE and make a recycled pen - - -This How-to aims to be the ultimate guide to HDPE and then teach you how to make a recycled pen out of it. - -The recycled plastic pen is a nifty writing tool with an eco-twist. -Crafted from repurposed plastic materials, it's a colorful way to jot down your thoughts while giving a second chance to discarded plastics. It's a small but impactful step toward a greener planet, proving that even everyday items can make a big difference. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/work-with-hdpe-and-make-a-recycled-pen/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/work-with-hdpe-and-make-a-recycled-pen/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4dabb23e3..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/work-with-hdpe-and-make-a-recycled-pen/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,17 +0,0 @@ -### Tools needed - - For the plastic melting: -- Flat plate panini press -- Teflon baking sheets -- Silicone oven mitts -- Weighing scales -> optional, but good to have - -For the mould making: -- Drill -- Saw - -For the pen making -- Clamps -- Lathe -- Turning chisel -- Drill \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/work-with-hdpe-and-make-a-recycled-pen/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/work-with-hdpe-and-make-a-recycled-pen/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 43c29ccaf..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/work-with-hdpe-and-make-a-recycled-pen/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Learn how to work with HDPE and make your pen! - - The goal of this video is to teach you how to work with HDPE and then teach you how to make your recycled pen. - -The video is divided in 3 chapters: -1. Materials -2. Equipment -3. Making the pen \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/work-with-hdpe-and-make-a-recycled-pen/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/work-with-hdpe-and-make-a-recycled-pen/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index c03afc4b1..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/work-with-hdpe-and-make-a-recycled-pen/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Outcome - - Creating a recycled plastic pen isn't just about scribbles – it's a mini victory for the environment! These pens give a new life to old plastics, helping to cut down on waste. -So, when you jot down your next brilliant idea with one of these pens, you're not just putting ink on paper – you're also giving a high-five to the planet! ðŸŒðŸ–Šï¸ \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/work-with-the-injection-machine/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/work-with-the-injection-machine/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8999a0f95..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/work-with-the-injection-machine/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Work with the injection machine - - -The scope of this How-To is the set up and operate the injection moulding machine Precious Plastic v3. The start point is right after you finished building your injection machine and want to start up the first time. This How-to is especially for beginners and tries to cover all important facts to consider for operating the injection machine. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/work-with-the-injection-machine/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/work-with-the-injection-machine/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index caaf14afe..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/work-with-the-injection-machine/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Safety - - Wear heat resistant gloves to prevent burning yourself from heated parts like: injection barrel, nozzle, plunger and the mould, which can heat up over time! You can use thick leather gloves, which are used for welding. Preferably they have a smooth outside surface (not suede leather), so plastic cannot stick to it. -Wear safety glasses during the injection process! -Avoid contact with molten plastic at all times! -Make always sure your nozzle connectors are in a good condition! Defect adapters can enable the plastic to squeeze out from the barrel under high pressure and cause risk to health! -Be careful while opening the nozzle, plastic can drip out immediately after opening! -Use a fume extractor with a rated filter to extract the fumes! See How to xxx \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/work-with-the-injection-machine/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/work-with-the-injection-machine/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index dc854fc08..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/work-with-the-injection-machine/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,13 +0,0 @@ -### Machine Limits - - There are some physical limitations which have to be considered when using the injection machine. - -Precious Plastic Injection Machine v3 - -Volume: 150cm³ -Pressure: 44bar - -The volume determines the maximum volume of the cavity together with gate, runners and sprue you can fill. -The injection pressure determines how fine your details can be and what is the minimum achievable wall thickness. - -Depending on your machine build those values might vary according to the calculation in the image. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/work-with-the-injection-machine/step_10.md b/resources/howtos-oa/work-with-the-injection-machine/step_10.md deleted file mode 100644 index 13e5c500d..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/work-with-the-injection-machine/step_10.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Finish your work - - You can push the injection lever to the top position, so you can start by adding fresh material the next time you start the machine. This makes sure, that the injection plunger won’t be stuck in the injection barrel. - -Clean the area where you work from all leftover plastic. The next person who uses the machine will not know which materials you used! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/work-with-the-injection-machine/step_11.md b/resources/howtos-oa/work-with-the-injection-machine/step_11.md deleted file mode 100644 index b8b935bd3..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/work-with-the-injection-machine/step_11.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Troubleshooting - - Injection moulding is a complicated process where many different process parameters have to be dialed in to the right settings. We keep a Troubleshooting guide updated ( REFERENCE ) to help you if something goes wrong. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/work-with-the-injection-machine/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/work-with-the-injection-machine/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index 315d50521..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/work-with-the-injection-machine/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Fix the machine - - It is useful if you can bolt the machine to the floor, a wall or add a pallet under it to prevent it from falling over during the injection process. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/work-with-the-injection-machine/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/work-with-the-injection-machine/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 406f7e7f6..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/work-with-the-injection-machine/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Preheat the barrel - - To start the machine plug in the plug and switch on the power. - -Do not try move the plunger as long the material melt temperature is not reached! - -There are different types of PID controllers on the market, but the main functions seem to be similar over a wide range of available products. -To change the temperature hold the button (Set) until one of the digits lights up. Switch between the digits with the button (Arrow Left) and then increase (Arrow Up) or decrease (Arrow Down) the temperature. Set the target temperature according to your material to the center of the temperature range. Check the starter kit for an overview of specific melt points of different polymer types. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/work-with-the-injection-machine/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/work-with-the-injection-machine/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 4b917d3f6..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/work-with-the-injection-machine/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Prepare your material - - Close the injection barrel with the nozzle cap and fill in the new material into the hopper. Leaving ~1cm of space to the top of the inlet prevents the plunger from getting stuck during the injection process by shearing of unmelted plastic. -Before the injection can start, a heat-up time of 10-15min is recommended to melt the material uniformly. Do not try to move the plunger before the preheating is done! -There might be still some old material left inside the barrel. Therefore actuate the lever without a mould or closing lid attached, until you stop seeing the previous material leaving the nozzle. Make sure your production leftovers are getting recycled properly! -For big moulds (>100g) the first infill might be not enough to fill the mould fully. Use the plunger to compress the material within the barrel and add more material, so the barrel is full with plastic. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/work-with-the-injection-machine/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/work-with-the-injection-machine/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 3f41b9754..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/work-with-the-injection-machine/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5 +0,0 @@ -### Close the mould - - You can start to prepare the mould by closing it and tighten the clamping bolts. Use two (open) ring spanners to open and close the moulds. For the best clamping results you can use an adjustable torque wrench to make sure the clamping is repetitive accurate. The necessary clamping force is also related to the used material. - -Keep in mind that mostly the mould thickness (and screw distance) is a limiting factor to the final clamping force. In case your plastic part has flash marks (plastic runs between mould halves), you may add additional steel plates to the outside to increase the structural rigidity. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/work-with-the-injection-machine/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/work-with-the-injection-machine/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index 900277e90..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/work-with-the-injection-machine/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Attach the nozzle connector - - As a nozzle connector (see figure 1 and 2) on the machine side normally a female G 1/2" pipe thread (red) is used. A mould needs a counter-fitting thread or a separate nozzle adapter which fits. We use a male G1/2" to male G1/2" adapter (yellow). -Note that the standard of G and R thread type are compatible. - -If there is no separate nozzle adapter used on the mould, take care that you do not over tighten the nozzle connector on the mould side. If you ruin a thread in a aluminium mould, the mould needs expensive and difficult repair. For this reason, try to leave the adapter attached to the mould at all times, so the thread in the mould does not get worn out. - -To prevent damage to the thread over a large number of injections (for events or small series production) change your nozzle adapter to a slider connector ( https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/make-a-quick-release-for-the-extrusion-machine ) or use additional thread adapters which can be swapped easily (see figure 3). \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/work-with-the-injection-machine/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/work-with-the-injection-machine/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index 9612eaaf0..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/work-with-the-injection-machine/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Injecting - - To achieve the highest leverage, it is recommended to actuate the lever from the very end. -You can increase the force by operating the machines with two persons or increase the length of the lever (see figure 1). - -If you reached the final temperature and the plastic tends to drip out from the nozzle, you are ready to start with injecting. To be sure to have a successful injection, actuate the injection lever gently and remove the very front of the material for the first injection. - -To start you remove the closing cap from the injection barrel. Make sure to attach the mould as fast as possible, after removing the closing cap. Otherwise the front of the plastic might cool down and impede the injection process. - -Keep the pressure for ~5 seconds. This reduces the shrinkage and prevents from a "vacuum" effect, where the molten material is moved back into the injection barrel (see figure 2) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/work-with-the-injection-machine/step_8.md b/resources/howtos-oa/work-with-the-injection-machine/step_8.md deleted file mode 100644 index ee95b1de5..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/work-with-the-injection-machine/step_8.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7 +0,0 @@ -### Opening the mould - - The mould usually can be opened immediately after the injection process. Unscrew the mould clamping screws. Two flat headed screwdrivers can be used to equally separate the two mould halfs apart from each other (see figure 1). - -After opening the mould, the part can be removed from the mould. Depending on the mould design it can be easier to remove the injection sprue first (see figure 2). So all the connected parts come out at the same time. - -Be very careful in removing the part from the mould and try to avoid the use of any hard (metal) tools within the cavity! They can scratch and damage the mould permanently. A damaged mould requires time intensive re-work by sanding and polishing or even closing the holes by welding and further machining. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/work-with-the-injection-machine/step_9.md b/resources/howtos-oa/work-with-the-injection-machine/step_9.md deleted file mode 100644 index 0251e48f3..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/work-with-the-injection-machine/step_9.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Done - - Congratulations, you just injected your first part! -If something went wrong, check on the bottom of this page for our troubleshooting reference. - -Remove the single parts from the runners by breaking or cutting of the part at the gate location. - -Finish your part, by trimming off the leftover gate material with a sharp knife. Watch your fingers! - -Make sure, all your products have labels before you hand them out to customers! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/ws---10/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/ws---10/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index b84a23ec1..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/ws---10/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### WS - 1.0 - - -With this Washing System it is possible to clean dirty shredded plastic with a closed loop system that filters the water so it can be reused for a longer period of time. - -It works best if you shred your plastic first into big flakes, so you can insert a more uniform batch of plastic into the washing system, where high pressure water jets blast off the dirt. - -In this how-to you'll find all the files, info and requirements you'll need to build and run this machine yourself :) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/ws---10/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/ws---10/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 5b8c99b34..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/ws---10/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,13 +0,0 @@ -### Download - - First off, check out the Grabcad link above to download all the files for this machine! - -In this download package you’ll find: -- 3D CAD (.step and .f3d) -- Lasercut files (.dxf) -- Blueprints (.pdf) -- Schematics -- BOM -... and more :) - -Here you will find an online preview of all the files (in case you are just curious 👀) and you'll also be able to download them for manufacturing 🔧 \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/ws---10/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/ws---10/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index a9f5c05f1..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/ws---10/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,15 +0,0 @@ -### Build - - There are a few required skills and machinery you'll need to have if you’re building this machine yourself, or for the machine builder if you are asking someone else to build it for you. - - -- General metalworking (cutting, drilling, welding) -- General plumbing knowledge -- Laser cutting -- General electrical work -- Advanced assembly work (require specific tools, measurement instruments and tolerances knowledge to align and assemble) -- Painting - -âš™ï¸ Machinery needed: -- Grinder, chop saw, MIG/MAG or TIG, drill press. -- Plumbing tools diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/ws---10/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/ws---10/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index db5b2d308..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/ws---10/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,14 +0,0 @@ -### Run and Sell :) - - Just as with the shredder, you want to wash per type of plastic and per color, so you can control the quality of your recycled plastic material. If you find that the plastic is still dirty after one cycle, you can let it run for another cycle, or it's also possible to add some biodegredable detergent. - -To run and maintain this machine properly and safely, make sure to have a look at its MANUAL: -👉 https://workbench.grabcad.com/workbench/projects/gcb2vT0k9d7-N0DoEFwIN-_DK_1gf6Pym5HBN9aNYMkOPr#/space/gcmXrU-mYrgXOrjJRnxVBs4_aPz27LVp-Uxr9PBG80iPU8/link/3345412 - -For drying, is good to get a rack for the trays so that the plastic can get air dried or you can also get a centrifugal system to speed it up! - -Sell your raw material! -If you are not using all the shredded and washed plastic yourself, you could also sell your shredded plastic to the recycling community - locally or on the Bazar. -👉 bazar.preciousplastic.com - -Happy washing! 🧼🚿 diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/xl-long-bed-3d-printer-conversion/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/xl-long-bed-3d-printer-conversion/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index 61ac3c33f..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/xl-long-bed-3d-printer-conversion/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### XL Long bed 3D-printer conversion - - -This how-to will show how to fit a longer bed on any flashable 3D-printer. We used the long bed ourselves to print windturbine blades. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/xl-long-bed-3d-printer-conversion/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/xl-long-bed-3d-printer-conversion/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 602dd73b0..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/xl-long-bed-3d-printer-conversion/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,24 +0,0 @@ -### Gather all required parts - - Necessary for this build: - -Basics: -- a basic 3D-printer that allows modifying the firmware (we use an Anycubic I3 Mega S) -- a rigid table of 2m * 80cm or bigger to put everything on - -Movement system (Y-axis): -- 2 * SBR25 1500mm rails -- 4 * SBR25UU bearings + bearing holders -- 2,5m glassfiber belt for 3D-printers (often called GT2 belt). 2mm pitch. - -The heated bed: -- 5 aluminum profiles of 40x15mm -- NiCr heating wire of 60 ohm 3A, 5 or 10m length -- glassfiber sleeving to insulate the heating wire (resistant to 150 degrees Celsius or more). -- 16 * 8mm threaded rods of 5cm length + 32 nuts for both sides -- (recommended) glassfiber cloth (50 x 50cm) - - -- basic tools: a drill, screws, bolts and nuts - - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/xl-long-bed-3d-printer-conversion/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/xl-long-bed-3d-printer-conversion/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index eb3ae9fcc..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/xl-long-bed-3d-printer-conversion/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11 +0,0 @@ -### Assemble the bed - - 1. Weld the aluminium profiles so they are connected and make a platform of 1m * 20cm. Preferabbly this happens on the ends only so they are not skewed or distorted by the welding process. - -2. Drill holes for the bearing holders. They should be 1m apart. - -3. Install the bearings approximately 5cm from the bed - -4. Put the glassfiber sleeve over the NiCr heating wire and pull it through the hollow spaces of the aluminum bed - -5. (Recommended) Put some glassfiber cloth at the end of each alumium profile so the air stays inside \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/xl-long-bed-3d-printer-conversion/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/xl-long-bed-3d-printer-conversion/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index d77e94162..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/xl-long-bed-3d-printer-conversion/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Make the base: rails on a sturdy table! - - Make sure the table is flat and can't bend or move, because this will have a great impact on the printability. -Probably the rails will become dusty because of the installation process, so make sure to clean them and apply some TPFE-oil before moving to the next step. - -Before proceeding to the next step, check out the technical drawing on how the rest of the parts should be set-up. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/xl-long-bed-3d-printer-conversion/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/xl-long-bed-3d-printer-conversion/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index f87ee4a40..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/xl-long-bed-3d-printer-conversion/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Assembling of the main parts - - 1. Drill holes for the mounting of the Y-axis. The screws that go into the stepper are very small so we made an adapter bracket with some left-over square aluminum bed for the pipe. -2. Mount both the stepper and pulley so they are approximately 1,25m apart -3. Get some sturdy L-hooks in steel, rvs or aluminium and drill some holes that fit the U-frame of your printer. By choosing these high enough we managed to get to a printable height of 26cm. 6 cm higher than normal! -4. Increase the length of the wire of the Y-stepper as much as necessary. We used some scrap 1,5mm² electricitycable because NEMA17 stepper can pull up to 2A current. -5. Mount the U-frame witl the L-hooks on the table and lower the endstops for the z-axis to benefit from the additional height -6. (Not in the video) Drill some holes to put the wires of the endstops and steppers through the table. In this way we managed to use all the original cables except for the Y-axis. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/xl-long-bed-3d-printer-conversion/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/xl-long-bed-3d-printer-conversion/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 5ea26be41..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/xl-long-bed-3d-printer-conversion/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Make a heated chamber - - Use your creativity to make a cover over the printspace. Plastic foil can already be enough to trap the warm air inside, depending on the room temperature. We also had good results with cardboard and left-over BASF Styropur, which is sturdy enough to not need a frame. diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/xl-long-bed-3d-printer-conversion/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/xl-long-bed-3d-printer-conversion/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 30dbb5dc9..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/xl-long-bed-3d-printer-conversion/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Download Marlin 1.4.6 and modify the bed size. - - You can find an adapted version specially for the Anycubic I3 Mega S here: https://github.com/davidramiro/Marlin-Ai3M -Higher versions had a bugged manual bed leveling system, which we'll really need because it's easy to not have the bed exactly parallel to the table. - -Install VSCode and open the code there. Change the following properties in configuration.h to let the printer know it has a bigger bed and higher build envelope: -a. Y_BED_SIZE: 999 -b. MAX_Z_HEIGHT: 260 diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/xl-long-bed-3d-printer-conversion/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/xl-long-bed-3d-printer-conversion/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index 5df9b631c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/xl-long-bed-3d-printer-conversion/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Flash the modified firmware - - Connect your printer mainboard with USB. VScode will automatically connect to the right serial port. -Press the small arrow in the bottom left corner to start the uploading process. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/xl-long-bed-3d-printer-conversion/step_7.md b/resources/howtos-oa/xl-long-bed-3d-printer-conversion/step_7.md deleted file mode 100644 index 752e592cb..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/xl-long-bed-3d-printer-conversion/step_7.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Level the bed 'manually' - - Ok, this is not the 'manually' as you used to know, turning the 4 knobs on the bottom of the printbed. Instead we will run the G29 S1 command, followed by G29 S2 until it finishes. The printer will calculate a grid of 5x5 points over the printbed and move to each position, where you'll be able to lower or heighten the nozzle on the z-axis. -(The number of points in the grid can easily be changed in the firmware) - -More on the G29 command for Marlin: https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G029-mbl.html - -After you finished all 25 points, the printer will make a bleep sound and return the printhead to its 0,0 position. Be sure to save the grid with the M500-command. Also, before each print you should call M420 S1 to enable mesh-bed-leveling and fetch the modified z-coordinates. We can recommened to put this in the custom g-code section of your slicer to be sure to have it called before each print. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/xl-long-bed-3d-printer-conversion/step_8.md b/resources/howtos-oa/xl-long-bed-3d-printer-conversion/step_8.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8f67017e2..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/xl-long-bed-3d-printer-conversion/step_8.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -### Test before you print big! - - Printing big might take some time to get everything right. For example there might be some adhesion problems arising while printing. The bigger the object gets, the more power it has to warp and pull of off the bed. -We had good result printing rPET, PETG and PLA with Formfutur's Magigoo as an adhesive. Certainly PET(G) sticks very well and we use a first layer of PET(G) to print ABS. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/xl-long-bed-3d-printer-conversion/step_9.md b/resources/howtos-oa/xl-long-bed-3d-printer-conversion/step_9.md deleted file mode 100644 index 424167fa4..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/xl-long-bed-3d-printer-conversion/step_9.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -### Profit - - This long bed conversion for example permits the printing of windturbine blades which allows yo uto build your own windturbines. Check our other tutorial to know more about it! \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/zero-plastic-australias-sheet-machine/howto_in.md b/resources/howtos-oa/zero-plastic-australias-sheet-machine/howto_in.md deleted file mode 100644 index ba48630de..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/zero-plastic-australias-sheet-machine/howto_in.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6 +0,0 @@ -### Zero Plastic Australia's Sheet Machine - - -A Simple, Cheap and Easy way to make sheets of recycled plastic (30cm x 25cm x 1cm) - -After having a Heart attack i realised that if i don't share this knowledge it wont help anyone, all i ask is that you help spread the word and to give Zero Plastics Australia a like and to #zeroplasticsaustralia with any work you make from these sheets. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/zero-plastic-australias-sheet-machine/step_0.md b/resources/howtos-oa/zero-plastic-australias-sheet-machine/step_0.md deleted file mode 100644 index c8a95936c..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/zero-plastic-australias-sheet-machine/step_0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Sheet Press Machine and molds - - First you will need to buy yourself a Heat Press machine, i have found that these can come in many different sizes however this "how-to" will be for the 38cm2 Machine which can be purchased via the link - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Brand-New-38x38-High-Pressure-Heat-Press-Machine-T-shirt-Transfer-/282662703440 - -You will also need: -2x Aluminium Sheets (40cm2 and 3mm-5mm Thick) -1x 30cm x 25cm x 1cm Aluminium Mold (internal measurements) - -You can change the size of this, however a 33cm internal size sheet should be the max you want to make with this machine, as any larger and the edges will not melt. - diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/zero-plastic-australias-sheet-machine/step_1.md b/resources/howtos-oa/zero-plastic-australias-sheet-machine/step_1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 7d3143be3..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/zero-plastic-australias-sheet-machine/step_1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Setting up your Mold - - We will be using HDPE to make these sheets (however have made sheets using PP and LDPE) - -1. Add 1 Aluminium sheet to your heat press. -2. Add Mold. -3. Fill Mold with 800 grams of HDPE shredded plastic. -4. Add the other Aluminium sheet. - -If you have a mold release i would recommend added it to the sheets and mold. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/zero-plastic-australias-sheet-machine/step_2.md b/resources/howtos-oa/zero-plastic-australias-sheet-machine/step_2.md deleted file mode 100644 index e8d092c35..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/zero-plastic-australias-sheet-machine/step_2.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -### Setting up the Sheets - - 1. Set your machine to 200c and let it heat up to max temperature -2. Set timer for 960 (16min) - -You will need to play around with the height of the machine and your mold as we "cook" the mold for 1 run (16min) then tighten it, then "cook" 3 more times. - -3. Once at Max Temp close the lid as tight as you can. (might still be loose or take a few times to close but try to get this as tight as you can without spilling the mold) - - \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/zero-plastic-australias-sheet-machine/step_3.md b/resources/howtos-oa/zero-plastic-australias-sheet-machine/step_3.md deleted file mode 100644 index 27146ecee..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/zero-plastic-australias-sheet-machine/step_3.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,13 +0,0 @@ -### "Cooking" the Sheets - - Once you have closed the lid on the mold the timer will start and you have 16min to save the world...wait that isnt it. - -You have started the process of making a sheet. After the first 16min of cooking you will need to open the machine and tighten it. - -1. Tighten the machine (normally 3 full turns will do the trick, however this is something you will need to work around) -2. Close the machine and cook again for another 16min -3. After the 2nd cook is completed Flip the mold (as the machine only heats from one side) -Flipping the mold front to back will give you the best results -4. Cook for 2 more times (16min + 16min) - -In total you should of cooked the mold 4 times (2 times on each side) diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/zero-plastic-australias-sheet-machine/step_4.md b/resources/howtos-oa/zero-plastic-australias-sheet-machine/step_4.md deleted file mode 100644 index 1f700fb24..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/zero-plastic-australias-sheet-machine/step_4.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ -### Cooling the Sheets - - IMMEDIATELY Once the last cook is complete grab your mold and put it HOT SIDE to the ground. - -This is super important and will save your sheets from warping. - -1. HOT SIDE to cool concrete ground. -2. Add weight onto the top of your mold (the more the better) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/zero-plastic-australias-sheet-machine/step_5.md b/resources/howtos-oa/zero-plastic-australias-sheet-machine/step_5.md deleted file mode 100644 index 344dba745..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/zero-plastic-australias-sheet-machine/step_5.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11 +0,0 @@ -### We're Done! - - Now wait about 30min the longer the better but once the mold has cooled you can open it up and will have a perfect sheet. - -You can use a utility knife to cut the sheet out of the mold if you havent used any mold release. - -If the sheet is still hot, flip it over and add the weight back on top again for another 30min. - -However that it is! you should now be looking at your finished sheet! yay! go you! - -I will try to upload a video on all of this shortly \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/howtos-oa/zero-plastic-australias-sheet-machine/step_6.md b/resources/howtos-oa/zero-plastic-australias-sheet-machine/step_6.md deleted file mode 100644 index 374a44548..000000000 --- a/resources/howtos-oa/zero-plastic-australias-sheet-machine/step_6.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9 +0,0 @@ -### FAQs - - You might have a few other questions with this as it is a big process but once you work it out it is very easy to do with hardly any labor time needed when making the sheet. - -1.How to adjust the height of the machine? this will come in the manual with the Heat press but it is just the screw at the top of the machine. -2. can you use different plastics? Yes but i have only been collecting HDPE. please share the run time and temp if you use another type of plastic -3. What can you use these sheets for? have a look at the photos attached or visit our social pages for further updates Zero Plastics Australia - -If you need any other questions please email us at zero.plastics.australia@​gmail.com \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/inkbird-front.p2m b/resources/inkbird-front.p2m deleted file mode 100644 index accebe54e..000000000 Binary files a/resources/inkbird-front.p2m and /dev/null differ diff --git a/resources/sw/scripts/SolidWorks.Interop.sldworks.dll b/resources/sw/scripts/SolidWorks.Interop.sldworks.dll deleted file mode 100644 index e97e03583..000000000 Binary files a/resources/sw/scripts/SolidWorks.Interop.sldworks.dll and /dev/null differ diff --git a/resources/sw/scripts/export.cmd b/resources/sw/scripts/export.cmd deleted file mode 100644 index f99b9880f..000000000 --- a/resources/sw/scripts/export.cmd +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -SET inputFilePath=%1 -SET outFilePath=%2 - -PowerShell -NoProfile -ExecutionPolicy Bypass -File "%~dp0export.ps1" %inputFilePath% %outFilePath% \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/sw/scripts/export.ps1 b/resources/sw/scripts/export.ps1 deleted file mode 100644 index fb2cc4c47..000000000 --- a/resources/sw/scripts/export.ps1 +++ /dev/null @@ -1,102 +0,0 @@ -$inputFilePath=$args[0] -$outFilePath=$args[1] - -$ScriptDir = Split-Path $script:MyInvocation.MyCommand.Path - -$Assem = ( - $ScriptDir + "\SolidWorks.Interop.sldworks.dll" - ) - -$Source = @" -using SolidWorks.Interop.sldworks; -using System; - - namespace CodeStack - { - public static class Exporter - { - #region Libraries - - static Exporter() - { - AppDomain.CurrentDomain.AssemblyResolve += OnAssemblyResolve; - } - - public static void LoadLibrary(params object[] libs) - { - foreach(string lib in libs) - { - Console.WriteLine(string.Format("Loading library: {0}", lib)); - System.Reflection.Assembly assm = System.Reflection.Assembly.LoadFrom(lib); - Console.WriteLine(assm.GetName().ToString()); - } - } - - private static System.Reflection.Assembly OnAssemblyResolve(object sender, ResolveEventArgs args) - { - foreach (System.Reflection.Assembly assm in AppDomain.CurrentDomain.GetAssemblies()) - { - if(assm.GetName().ToString() == args.Name) - { - return assm; - } - }; - - return null; - } - - #endregion - - public static void ExportFile(string filePath, string outFilePath) - { - Console.WriteLine("Connecting to SOLIDWORKS..."); - - ISldWorks app = Activator.CreateInstance(Type.GetTypeFromProgID("SldWorks.Application")) as ISldWorks; - - if (app != null) - { - Console.WriteLine(string.Format("Opening file '{0}'...", filePath)); - - IDocumentSpecification docSpec = app.GetOpenDocSpec(filePath) as IDocumentSpecification; - docSpec.ReadOnly = true; - docSpec.Silent = true; - IModelDoc2 model = app.OpenDoc7(docSpec); - - if (model != null) - { - const int swSaveAsCurrentVersion = 0; - const int swSaveAsOptions_Silent = 1; - int err = -1; - int warn = -1; - - Console.WriteLine(string.Format("Exporting file '{0}' to '{1}'...", filePath, outFilePath)); - - if (!model.Extension.SaveAs(outFilePath, swSaveAsCurrentVersion, - swSaveAsOptions_Silent, null, ref err, ref warn)) - { - Console.WriteLine(string.Format("Failed to export '{0}' to '{1}'. Error code: {2}", filePath, outFilePath, err)); - } - - Console.WriteLine(string.Format("Closing file '{0}'...", filePath)); - - app.CloseDoc(model.GetTitle()); - } - else - { - Console.WriteLine(string.Format("Failed to open document: '{0}'. Error code: {1}", - filePath, docSpec.Error)); - } - } - else - { - Console.WriteLine("Failed to connect to SOLIDWORKS instance"); - } - } - } -} -"@ - -Add-Type -TypeDefinition $Source -ReferencedAssemblies $Assem -Language CSharp - -[CodeStack.Exporter]::LoadLibrary($Assem) -[CodeStack.Exporter]::ExportFile($inputFilePath, $outFilePath) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/sw/toolib/B18.3.1M - 6 x 1.0 x 10 Hex SHCS -- 10NHX.SLDPRT b/resources/sw/toolib/B18.3.1M - 6 x 1.0 x 10 Hex SHCS -- 10NHX.SLDPRT deleted file mode 100644 index 912025504..000000000 --- a/resources/sw/toolib/B18.3.1M - 6 x 1.0 x 10 Hex SHCS -- 10NHX.SLDPRT +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -version https://git-lfs.github.com/spec/v1 -oid sha256:fe1f8ccb0d730bcec84970fd0e9cc1ccd7cdf658a760030317b8e3811d5b0ce1 -size 217631 diff --git a/resources/sw/toolib/B18.3.1M - 6 x 1.0 x 10 Hex SHCS -- 10NHX.smg b/resources/sw/toolib/B18.3.1M - 6 x 1.0 x 10 Hex SHCS -- 10NHX.smg deleted file mode 100644 index 6bf71615e..000000000 Binary files a/resources/sw/toolib/B18.3.1M - 6 x 1.0 x 10 Hex SHCS -- 10NHX.smg and /dev/null differ diff --git a/resources/sw/toolib/B18.3.1M - 8 x 1.25 x 12 Hex SHCS -- 12NHX.SLDPRT b/resources/sw/toolib/B18.3.1M - 8 x 1.25 x 12 Hex SHCS -- 12NHX.SLDPRT deleted file mode 100644 index 57063a927..000000000 --- a/resources/sw/toolib/B18.3.1M - 8 x 1.25 x 12 Hex SHCS -- 12NHX.SLDPRT +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -version https://git-lfs.github.com/spec/v1 -oid sha256:ce95eb1a0a7912a72d983ca09456ce33646e3bd610c0acd97045e9bfd9027778 -size 218236 diff --git a/resources/sw/toolib/B18.3.1M - 8 x 1.25 x 12 Hex SHCS -- 12NHX.smg b/resources/sw/toolib/B18.3.1M - 8 x 1.25 x 12 Hex SHCS -- 12NHX.smg deleted file mode 100644 index 1b93504a6..000000000 Binary files a/resources/sw/toolib/B18.3.1M - 8 x 1.25 x 12 Hex SHCS -- 12NHX.smg and /dev/null differ diff --git a/resources/sw/toolib/B18.3.1M - 8 x 1.25 x 12 Hex SHCS -- 12NHX_.SLDPRT b/resources/sw/toolib/B18.3.1M - 8 x 1.25 x 12 Hex SHCS -- 12NHX_.SLDPRT deleted file mode 100644 index 643a124fa..000000000 --- a/resources/sw/toolib/B18.3.1M - 8 x 1.25 x 12 Hex SHCS -- 12NHX_.SLDPRT +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -version https://git-lfs.github.com/spec/v1 -oid sha256:064d4af1c9637635d2a8b6b50b5199fe6bd1692b1e0dacb8a13b6acc010a1769 -size 170414 diff --git a/resources/sw/toolib/B18.3.1M - 8 x 1.25 x 30 Hex SHCS -- 30NHX.SLDPRT b/resources/sw/toolib/B18.3.1M - 8 x 1.25 x 30 Hex SHCS -- 30NHX.SLDPRT deleted file mode 100644 index 58022282f..000000000 --- a/resources/sw/toolib/B18.3.1M - 8 x 1.25 x 30 Hex SHCS -- 30NHX.SLDPRT +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -version https://git-lfs.github.com/spec/v1 -oid sha256:bd5643c53c9694599026c815105e07566cc333bc25f0f482acd451b7c1b66d5c -size 218471 diff --git a/resources/sw/toolib/B18.3.1M - 8 x 1.25 x 30 Hex SHCS -- 30NHX.smg b/resources/sw/toolib/B18.3.1M - 8 x 1.25 x 30 Hex SHCS -- 30NHX.smg deleted file mode 100644 index 433b23198..000000000 Binary files a/resources/sw/toolib/B18.3.1M - 8 x 1.25 x 30 Hex SHCS -- 30NHX.smg and /dev/null differ diff --git a/resources/sw/toolib/B18.3.1M - 8 x 1.25 x 30 Hex SHCS -- 30NHX_.smg b/resources/sw/toolib/B18.3.1M - 8 x 1.25 x 30 Hex SHCS -- 30NHX_.smg deleted file mode 100644 index 387da7d97..000000000 Binary files a/resources/sw/toolib/B18.3.1M - 8 x 1.25 x 30 Hex SHCS -- 30NHX_.smg and /dev/null differ diff --git a/resources/workshop/.gitattributes b/resources/workshop/.gitattributes deleted file mode 100644 index b00e591a7..000000000 --- a/resources/workshop/.gitattributes +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11 +0,0 @@ -*.pdf filter=lfs diff=lfs merge=lfs -text -*.igs filter=lfs diff=lfs merge=lfs -text -*.iges filter=lfs diff=lfs merge=lfs -text -*.step filter=lfs diff=lfs merge=lfs -text -SLDASM filter=lfs diff=lfs merge=lfs -text -STEP filter=lfs diff=lfs merge=lfs -text -jpg filter=lfs diff=lfs merge=lfs -text -*.SLDASM filter=lfs diff=lfs merge=lfs -text -*.jpg filter=lfs diff=lfs merge=lfs -text -*.png filter=lfs diff=lfs merge=lfs -text -*.SLDPRT filter=lfs diff=lfs merge=lfs -text diff --git a/resources/workshop/.gitignore b/resources/workshop/.gitignore deleted file mode 100644 index 2ca868298..000000000 --- a/resources/workshop/.gitignore +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4 +0,0 @@ -_site/ -.sass-cache/ -.jekyll-cache/ -.jekyll-metadata diff --git a/resources/workshop/.inc/.gitignore b/resources/workshop/.inc/.gitignore deleted file mode 100644 index 67045665d..000000000 --- a/resources/workshop/.inc/.gitignore +++ /dev/null @@ -1,104 +0,0 @@ -# Logs -logs -*.log -npm-debug.log* -yarn-debug.log* -yarn-error.log* -lerna-debug.log* - -# Diagnostic reports (https://nodejs.org/api/report.html) -report.[0-9]*.[0-9]*.[0-9]*.[0-9]*.json - -# Runtime data -pids -*.pid -*.seed -*.pid.lock - -# Directory for instrumented libs generated by jscoverage/JSCover -lib-cov - -# Coverage directory used by tools like istanbul -coverage -*.lcov - -# nyc test coverage -.nyc_output - -# Grunt intermediate storage (https://gruntjs.com/creating-plugins#storing-task-files) -.grunt - -# Bower dependency directory (https://bower.io/) -bower_components - -# node-waf configuration -.lock-wscript - -# Compiled binary addons (https://nodejs.org/api/addons.html) -build/Release - -# Dependency directories -node_modules/ -jspm_packages/ - -# TypeScript v1 declaration files -typings/ - -# TypeScript cache -*.tsbuildinfo - -# Optional npm cache directory -.npm - -# Optional eslint cache -.eslintcache - -# Microbundle cache -.rpt2_cache/ -.rts2_cache_cjs/ -.rts2_cache_es/ -.rts2_cache_umd/ - -# Optional REPL history -.node_repl_history - -# Output of 'npm pack' -*.tgz - -# Yarn Integrity file -.yarn-integrity - -# dotenv environment variables file -.env -.env.test - -# parcel-bundler cache (https://parceljs.org/) -.cache - -# Next.js build output -.next - -# Nuxt.js build / generate output -.nuxt -dist - -# Gatsby files -.cache/ -# Comment in the public line in if your project uses Gatsby and *not* Next.js -# https://nextjs.org/blog/next-9-1#public-directory-support -# public - -# vuepress build output -.vuepress/dist - -# Serverless directories -.serverless/ - -# FuseBox cache -.fusebox/ - -# DynamoDB Local files -.dynamodb/ - -# TernJS port file -.tern-port diff --git a/resources/workshop/.inc/LICENSE b/resources/workshop/.inc/LICENSE deleted file mode 100644 index 6e398b8e7..000000000 --- a/resources/workshop/.inc/LICENSE +++ /dev/null @@ -1,21 +0,0 @@ -MIT License - -Copyright (c) 2020 Plastic Hub - -Permission is hereby granted, free of charge, to any person obtaining a copy -of this software and associated documentation files (the "Software"), to deal -in the Software without restriction, including without limitation the rights -to use, copy, modify, merge, publish, distribute, sublicense, and/or sell -copies of the Software, and to permit persons to whom the Software is -furnished to do so, subject to the following conditions: - -The above copyright notice and this permission notice shall be included in all -copies or substantial portions of the Software. - -THE SOFTWARE IS PROVIDED "AS IS", WITHOUT WARRANTY OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR -IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO THE WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY, -FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE AND NONINFRINGEMENT. IN NO EVENT SHALL THE -AUTHORS OR COPYRIGHT HOLDERS BE LIABLE FOR ANY CLAIM, DAMAGES OR OTHER -LIABILITY, WHETHER IN AN ACTION OF CONTRACT, TORT OR OTHERWISE, ARISING FROM, -OUT OF OR IN CONNECTION WITH THE SOFTWARE OR THE USE OR OTHER DEALINGS IN THE -SOFTWARE. diff --git a/resources/workshop/.inc/README.md b/resources/workshop/.inc/README.md deleted file mode 100644 index 54006375b..000000000 --- a/resources/workshop/.inc/README.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,2 +0,0 @@ -# pp-webinars -Online webinars for PP diff --git a/resources/workshop/.inc/assets/git-flow.jpg b/resources/workshop/.inc/assets/git-flow.jpg deleted file mode 100644 index f851960d7..000000000 --- a/resources/workshop/.inc/assets/git-flow.jpg +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -version https://git-lfs.github.com/spec/v1 -oid sha256:8e926c2e6a312da96ef349e2451a98676abfcaf677695ba7c210bf4dac9bcbf1 -size 8548 diff --git a/resources/workshop/.inc/assets/plastic-hub-tooling.jpg b/resources/workshop/.inc/assets/plastic-hub-tooling.jpg deleted file mode 100644 index 16acca440..000000000 --- a/resources/workshop/.inc/assets/plastic-hub-tooling.jpg +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -version https://git-lfs.github.com/spec/v1 -oid sha256:bee0d2df7d9730d37492ef1b048720d64e3ec1bb228e6a25e670c0dcc0a1abe3 -size 38180 diff --git a/resources/workshop/.inc/basics/readme.md b/resources/workshop/.inc/basics/readme.md deleted file mode 100644 index ad9b89c5f..000000000 --- a/resources/workshop/.inc/basics/readme.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,50 +0,0 @@ -# Basic - course about open-source tools for makers and PPers - -A walk through open-source tools and services to update your infrastructure. I will present the essential modern day tools to manage & maintaine production and development for any type of project as well. - -[**Zoom (conference) invitation - meeting**](https://zoom.us/j/551567106) - -The session will be published on youtube, so you can watch it later. You can also ask questions on the [chat](https://discord.gg/wU5AQgS) - -[Facebook event](https://www.facebook.com/events/2177260425710339/?event_time_id=2177260432377005) - -**Date** : 25.01.2019 | 10.30am (Berlin Time) - -**Key subjects** : - -1. How and where to opensource your project. This is the very basic setup. -2. How to use open source tooling to maintain and manage your production and development for any type of project. In this part we explain Markdown - -**Tools to be presented** : - -- Git & Github (1st. session) -- Markdown (1st session) -- Text editors (VSCode, 1st session) -- CAD & CAM (Fusion-360, 2nd session) - -**Speaker** : Guenter - Senior Software Engineer - -**Attendee Support** : Anne - PhD - Psycho-sociology - -## The webinar - -- I will speak in 15 minute intervals, and then we answer questions - -## Requirements - -### Hardware - -- a headset ! -- a good internet connection - -Please install this on your computer (we assume you're on windows) : - -1. [Zoom client - conference software](../software/zoom.exe) | Or signup and download from the [zoom webpage](https://zoom.us/j/551567106) -2. Install [Git](https://tortoisegit.org/download/) -3. Install [VSCode](https://code.visualstudio.com/download) -4. Create a Google account ! - -## Reference links for later - -- [The factory pipe](../assets/plastic-hub-tooling.jpg) -- [Git flow](../assets/git-flow.jpg) diff --git a/resources/workshop/.inc/saturn/.dockerignore b/resources/workshop/.inc/saturn/.dockerignore deleted file mode 100644 index 27d2dae2b..000000000 --- a/resources/workshop/.inc/saturn/.dockerignore +++ /dev/null @@ -1,2 +0,0 @@ -*/node_modules -*.log diff --git a/resources/workshop/.inc/saturn/.gitattributes b/resources/workshop/.inc/saturn/.gitattributes deleted file mode 100644 index 8b1378917..000000000 --- a/resources/workshop/.inc/saturn/.gitattributes +++ /dev/null @@ -1 +0,0 @@ - diff --git a/resources/workshop/.inc/saturn/.gitignore b/resources/workshop/.inc/saturn/.gitignore deleted file mode 100644 index ca70912a1..000000000 --- a/resources/workshop/.inc/saturn/.gitignore +++ /dev/null @@ -1,69 +0,0 @@ -# Logs -logs -archives -*.log -npm-debug.log* -yarn-debug.log* -yarn-error.log* -academy -~$*.SLDDRW -~$*.SLDPRT -~$*.SLDASM -# Runtime data -pids -*.pid -*.seed -*.pid.lock -_site -.jekyll-cache -.jekyll-metadata - - -# Directory for instrumented libs generated by jscoverage/JSCover -lib-cov - -# Coverage directory used by tools like istanbul -coverage - -# nyc test coverage -.nyc_output - -# Grunt intermediate storage (http://gruntjs.com/creating-plugins#storing-task-files) -.grunt - -# Bower dependency directory (https://bower.io/) -bower_components - -# node-waf configuration -.lock-wscript - -# Compiled binary addons (https://nodejs.org/api/addons.html) -build/Release - -# Dependency directories -node_modules/ -jspm_packages/ - -# TypeScript v1 declaration files -typings/ - -# Optional npm cache directory -.npm - -# Optional eslint cache -.eslintcache - -# Optional REPL history -.node_repl_history - -# Output of 'npm pack' -*.tgz - -# Yarn Integrity file -.yarn-integrity - -# dotenv environment variables file -.env - -# next.js build output -.next diff --git a/resources/workshop/.inc/saturn/.htaccess b/resources/workshop/.inc/saturn/.htaccess deleted file mode 100644 index f3d573b87..000000000 --- a/resources/workshop/.inc/saturn/.htaccess +++ /dev/null @@ -1,34 +0,0 @@ -# turn off directory browsing -IndexIgnore * - -# show custom error pages for these HTTP statuses -ErrorDocument 404 /error/404.html -ErrorDocument 403 /error/403.html -ErrorDocument 401 /error/403.html - -# start rewrite rules - -RewriteEngine On - - - -# pass through requests when the page exists -RewriteCond %{REQUEST_FILENAME} -f -RewriteRule ^(.*)$ - [L] - -# static pages -RewriteRule ^about/?$ /about.html [R=301,L] -RewriteRule ^contact/?$ /contact.html [R=301,L] -RewriteRule feed/?$ /feed.xml [R=301,L] - -# pass anything ending in HTML - prevents infinite redirect if the wildcard formulas below are incorrect -RewriteRule ^(.*).html$ - [L] - -# Blog posts start with year, ^20___ . -# match a trailing slash, but omit it from the destination -RewriteRule ^20(.*)\/$ /20$1.html [R=301,L] -# tack html onto anything else -RewriteRule ^20(.*)$ /20$1.html [R=301,L] - -# end rewrite rules - \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/workshop/.inc/saturn/404.html b/resources/workshop/.inc/saturn/404.html deleted file mode 100644 index 086a5c9ea..000000000 --- a/resources/workshop/.inc/saturn/404.html +++ /dev/null @@ -1,25 +0,0 @@ ---- -permalink: /404.html -layout: default ---- - - - -
-

404

- -

Page not found :(

-

The requested page could not be found.

-
diff --git a/resources/workshop/.inc/saturn/Dockerfile b/resources/workshop/.inc/saturn/Dockerfile deleted file mode 100644 index c7f1856c1..000000000 --- a/resources/workshop/.inc/saturn/Dockerfile +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10 +0,0 @@ -FROM node:lts - -WORKDIR /app/website - -EXPOSE 3000 35729 -COPY ./docs /app/docs -COPY ./website /app/website -RUN yarn install - -CMD ["yarn", "start"] diff --git a/resources/workshop/.inc/saturn/Gemfile b/resources/workshop/.inc/saturn/Gemfile deleted file mode 100644 index f7ba88ac4..000000000 --- a/resources/workshop/.inc/saturn/Gemfile +++ /dev/null @@ -1,40 +0,0 @@ -source "https://rubygems.org" -# Hello! This is where you manage which Jekyll version is used to run. -# When you want to use a different version, change it below, save the -# file and run `bundle install`. Run Jekyll with `bundle exec`, like so: -# -# bundle exec jekyll serve -# -# This will help ensure the proper Jekyll version is running. -# Happy Jekylling! -gem "jekyll", "~> 4.0.0" -# This is the default theme for new Jekyll sites. You may change this to anything you like. -gem "minima", "~> 2.5" -# If you want to use GitHub Pages, remove the "gem "jekyll"" above and -# uncomment the line below. To upgrade, run `bundle update github-pages`. -# gem "github-pages", group: :jekyll_plugins -# If you have any plugins, put them here! -group :jekyll_plugins do - gem "jekyll-paginate" - gem "jekyll-sitemap" - gem "jekyll-gist" - gem "jemoji" - gem "jekyll-include-cache" - gem "jekyll-algolia" - gem 'jekyll-seo-tag' - gem 'jekyll-pwa-plugin' -end - -# Windows and JRuby does not include zoneinfo files, so bundle the tzinfo-data gem -# and associated library. -install_if -> { RUBY_PLATFORM =~ %r!mingw|mswin|java! } do - gem "tzinfo", "~> 1.2" - gem "tzinfo-data" -end - -# Performance-booster for watching directories on Windows -gem "wdm", "~> 0.1.1", :install_if => Gem.win_platform? - -gem "minimal-mistakes-jekyll" - -gem 'jekyll-admin', group: :jekyll_plugins \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/resources/workshop/.inc/saturn/LICENSE b/resources/workshop/.inc/saturn/LICENSE deleted file mode 100644 index 6e398b8e7..000000000 --- a/resources/workshop/.inc/saturn/LICENSE +++ /dev/null @@ -1,21 +0,0 @@ -MIT License - -Copyright (c) 2020 Plastic Hub - -Permission is hereby granted, free of charge, to any person obtaining a copy -of this software and associated documentation files (the "Software"), to deal -in the Software without restriction, including without limitation the rights -to use, copy, modify, merge, publish, distribute, sublicense, and/or sell -copies of the Software, and to permit persons to whom the Software is -furnished to do so, subject to the following conditions: - -The above copyright notice and this permission notice shall be included in all -copies or substantial portions of the Software. - -THE SOFTWARE IS PROVIDED "AS IS", WITHOUT WARRANTY OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR -IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO THE WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY, -FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE AND NONINFRINGEMENT. IN NO EVENT SHALL THE -AUTHORS OR COPYRIGHT HOLDERS BE LIABLE FOR ANY CLAIM, DAMAGES OR OTHER -LIABILITY, WHETHER IN AN ACTION OF CONTRACT, TORT OR OTHERWISE, ARISING FROM, -OUT OF OR IN CONNECTION WITH THE SOFTWARE OR THE USE OR OTHER DEALINGS IN THE -SOFTWARE. diff --git a/resources/workshop/.inc/saturn/README.md b/resources/workshop/.inc/saturn/README.md deleted file mode 100644 index b88b68a0d..000000000 --- a/resources/workshop/.inc/saturn/README.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,52 +0,0 @@ -# Lab Saturn - -Lab files - PlasticHub - Cat1 - -## Building - -- [Floorplan](./building) - -- [Stations](./stations.md) - -## Product Files and sites - -- [Products - CAD & CAM](file:///~./plastichub/plastichub/products) -- [Production / Processes](http://library.plastic-hub.com/) - -## Intranet Services & hosts - -- [VPN Main server : 'ecu-espana.es:1794' - login with your plastic-hub email and password](ecu-espana.es:1794). -- [Common Files & Shares & Printer](\\plastichub-intern) -- [PlasticHub main office](\\plastichub-saturn) -- [PlasticHub development](\\plastichub-dev) - -## Office Sites - -- [Zoho](https://books.zoho.com/app#/home/dashboard) -- [Orders](https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1oVEiGH4o3SV-mAA3Mb-WNVJMyYl4VMxLjWjrSw_ipJY/edit#gid=1462790708) -- [Directory](http://library.plastic-hub.com/directory) -- [Kanban board - Lab](https://plastichub.kanbanize.com/ctrl_board/1) - -## Email addresses - -- [Office](anne.babier@plastic-hub.com) -- [Guenter](guenter.baumgart@plastic-hub.com) -- [Nial](nial.oflyn@plastic-hub.com) -- [Gil](guiliam@plastic-hub.com) -- [Kampru](kampru@plastic-hub.com) -- [Support - for clients](support@plastic-hub.com) - -## Customer Projects (intern/private) - -- [Print-Head - 3dtreehouse](https://github.com/plastic-hub/lydia-print-head) -- [Asterix - SanAniol](https://github.com/plastic-hub/products/asterix) -- [Idefix - Paris](https://github.com/plastic-hub/products/idefix) - ---- - -For admins: - -- ## ISO-9001 - - - [IT checklist](./iso9001.md) - - [IT tools](./iso9001-tools.md) diff --git a/resources/workshop/.inc/saturn/_config.yml b/resources/workshop/.inc/saturn/_config.yml deleted file mode 100644 index 5d00bfd8a..000000000 --- a/resources/workshop/.inc/saturn/_config.yml +++ /dev/null @@ -1,306 +0,0 @@ -# Welcome to Jekyll! -# -# This config file is meant for settings that affect your whole blog, values -# which you are expected to set up once and rarely edit after that. If you find -# yourself editing this file very often, consider using Jekyll's data files -# feature for the data you need to update frequently. -# -# For technical reasons, this file is *NOT* reloaded automatically when you use -# 'bundle exec jekyll serve'. If you change this file, please restart the server process. -# -# If you need help with YAML syntax, here are some quick references for you: -# https://learn-the-web.algonquindesign.ca/topics/markdown-yaml-cheat-sheet/#yaml -# https://learnxinyminutes.com/docs/yaml/ -# -# Site settings -# These are used to personalize your new site. If you look in the HTML files, -# you will see them accessed via {{ site.title }}, {{ site.email }}, and so on. -# You can create any custom variable you would like, and they will be accessible -# in the templates via {{ site.myvariable }} - -pwa: - enabled: false # Optional - sw_src_filepath: service-worker.js # Optional - sw_dest_filename: service-worker.js # Optional - dest_js_directory: assets/js # Required - precache_recent_posts_num: 5 # Optional - precache_glob_directory: / # Optional - precache_glob_patterns: # Optional - - "{js,css,fonts}/**/*.{js,css,eot,svg,ttf,woff}" - - index.html - precache_glob_ignores: # Optional - - sw-register.js - - "fonts/**/*" - -keywords: "precious, injection, extrusion, machine, bazar, plastichub, preciousplastic, recycling, machines, plastic recycling, machines, plastic" -title: Plastic Hub -logo: "assets/site/logo.png" -email: your-email@example.com -description: "The unofficial library for Precious Plastic" -baseurl: "" # the subpath of your site, e.g. /blog -social_url: "https://saturn.plastic-hub.com" -url: "https://saturn.plastic-hub.com" # the base hostname & protocol for your site, e.g. http://example.com -twitter_username: jekyllrb -github_username: catx23 -relative_url: "" -git_repo: "https://github.com/plastic-hub/lab-saturn" -host : 0.0.0.0 - - -admin_url: "http://127.0.0.1:8008/admin/" -edit_url: "http://127.0.0.1:15555/app/pp/" - -search : true # true, false (default) -search_full_content : true # true, false (default) -search_provider : "lunr" -algolia: - application_id : "QB6HVGBSBA" - index_name : "dev_minimal-mistakes" - search_only_api_key : "9d5014e5bbc77372547bce778dfa5663" - powered_by : true - -comments: - provider : "facebook" - facebook: - # https://developers.facebook.com/docs/plugins/comments - appid : 598113287788244 - num_posts : 5 - colorscheme : "light" - - -# Analytics -analytics: - provider : "google" - google: - tracking_id : "UA-176859075-1" - anonymize_ip : false - - -# Build settings -# theme: minima -# theme: minimal-mistakes-jekyll -plugins: - - jekyll-paginate - - jekyll-gist - - jemoji - - jekyll-include-cache - -include: - - .htaccess - - _pages - - _machines - - _howto - - _projects - - _products - -exclude: - - "*.sublime-project" - - "*.sublime-workspace" - - vendor - - .asset-cache - - .bundle - - .jekyll-assets-cache - - .sass-cache - - assets/js/plugins - - templates/site/ - - assets/js/_main.js - - assets/js/vendor - - Capfile - - CHANGELOG - - node_modules - - config - - Gemfile - - Gruntfile.js - - gulpfile.js - - LICENSE - - log - - node_modules - - package.json - - Rakefile - - README - - cad - - tests/ - - assets/filegrid - - cli/ - - lang/ - - tasks/ - - api/ - - people/ - - tmp/ - - workshop/ - - bazar/ - - "*.SLDDRW" - - "*.sldprt" - - "*.step" - - archives/ - - templates/jekyll - -# Conversion -markdown: kramdown -highlighter: rouge -lsi: false -excerpt_separator: "\n\n" -incremental: false -breadcrumbs: true -markdown_ext: "markdown,mkdown,mkdn,mkd,md" - -# minimal_mistakes_skin : "default" # "air", "aqua", "contrast", "dark", "dirt", "neon", "mint", "plum", "sunrise" - -minimal_mistakes_skin : "default" # "air", "aqua", "contrast", "dark", "dirt", "neon", "mint", "plum", "sunrise" - -kramdown: - input: GFM - hard_wrap: false - auto_ids: true - footnote_nr: 1 - entity_output: as_char - toc_levels: 1..6 - smart_quotes: lsquo,rsquo,ldquo,rdquo - enable_coderay: false - - - # Site Author -author: - name : *name # *name is a YAML reference pointing to the &anchor earlier - avatar : "/assets/images/michael-rose.jpg" - bio : "Just another *boring*, *tattooed*, *time traveling*, *designer*." - location : "Buffalo, NY" - links: - - label: "GitHub" - icon: "fab fa-fw fa-github" - url: "https://github.com/plastichub" - - label: "Instagram" - icon: "fab fa-fw fa-instagram" - url: "https://instagram.com/plastichubcat" - - -prefixes: - machines: machines - howto: howto - - -# Site Footer -footer: - links: - - label: "GitHub" - icon: "fab fa-fw fa-github" - url: "https://github.com/plastic-hub" - - label: "Instagram" - icon: "fab fa-fw fa-instagram" - url: "https://instagram.com/plastichubcat" - - label: "EMail" - icon: "fab fa-fw fa-envelope-open" - url: "mailto://sales@plastic-hub.com" - - label: "Phone & Whatsapp" - icon: "fab fa-fw fa-phone" - url: "tel://0034666894789" - -collections: - docs: - output: true - permalink: /:collection/:path/ - breadcrumbs: true - products: - output: true - permalink: /:collection/:path:output_ext - breadcrumbs: true - howto: - output: true - permalink: /:collection/:path:output_ext - breadcrumbs: true - machines: - output: true - permalink: /:collection/:path:output_ext - breadcrumbs: true - projects: - output: true - permalink: /:collection/:path:output_ext - breadcrumbs: true - -# Defaults -defaults: - # _posts - - scope: - path: "" - type: posts - values: - layout: single - author_profile: true - read_time: true - comments: true - share: true - related: true - # _pages - - scope: - path: "_pages" - type: pages - values: - layout: single - author_profile: false - ctype: pages - comments: true - # _docs - - scope: - path: "" - type: docs - values: - layout: single - read_time: false - author_profile: false - share: false - comments: true - sidebar: - nav: "docs" - - scope: - path: "_howto" - type: howto - values: - ctype: collections - layout: single - read_time: true - author_profile: false - share: true - comments: true - related: true - sidebar: - nav: "howto" - - scope: - path: "_projects" - type: projects - values: - layout: single - read_time: true - author_profile: false - share: true - comments: true - related: true - ctype: collections - sidebar: - nav: "projects" - # products - - scope: - path: "_machines" - type: machines - values: - layout: single - author_profile: false - share: true - related: true - ctype: collections - comments: true - sidebar: - nav: "machines" - - scope: - path: "_products" - type: products - values: - layout: stretched - author_profile: false - pagination: false - share: true - related: false - ctype: collections - comments: true -sass: - style: compact # possible values: nested expanded compact compressed - diff --git a/resources/workshop/.inc/saturn/building/floor_plan.pdf b/resources/workshop/.inc/saturn/building/floor_plan.pdf deleted file mode 100644 index dbdb45035..000000000 --- a/resources/workshop/.inc/saturn/building/floor_plan.pdf +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -version https://git-lfs.github.com/spec/v1 -oid sha256:47567f4edf0d5057952c32889d0cfc48097907d65723c18d5f928db540508620 -size 116985 diff --git a/resources/workshop/.inc/saturn/building/floor_plan_page.jpg b/resources/workshop/.inc/saturn/building/floor_plan_page.jpg deleted file mode 100644 index ebc82b4cb..000000000 --- a/resources/workshop/.inc/saturn/building/floor_plan_page.jpg +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3 +0,0 @@ -version https://git-lfs.github.com/spec/v1 -oid sha256:26ff0bfd8523072fd24a06abed766cd1d12749a865cab318de38600d64053132 -size 215851 diff --git a/resources/workshop/.inc/saturn/building/readme.md b/resources/workshop/.inc/saturn/building/readme.md deleted file mode 100644 index 64e2139aa..000000000 --- a/resources/workshop/.inc/saturn/building/readme.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,42 +0,0 @@ -## Building - -### Floorplan - -![](./floor_plan_page.jpg) - -### 1. Entry - Lane - -- needs to stay free for 20T trucks - -### 2. Cutting area / Sheet-Stock - -- saw, plasma - -- 3kW - -### 3. Metal stock (standard 6m) - -### 4. Offices/Storage - -- 2kW - -### 5. Drilling / Abresive / Plasma - -- 6kW - -### 6. Tools / Shaper / Grinder - -- 5kW - -### 7. Lathe - CNC - -- 15kW -### 8. VMC - -- 22kW -### 9. Assembly tables, mobile / 2 side - -- 2kW -### 10. Sheetpress - Assembly - -- 15kW diff --git a/resources/workshop/.inc/saturn/docker-compose.yml b/resources/workshop/.inc/saturn/docker-compose.yml deleted file mode 100644 index 6711192ae..000000000 --- a/resources/workshop/.inc/saturn/docker-compose.yml +++ /dev/null @@ -1,18 +0,0 @@ -version: "3" - -services: - docusaurus: - build: . - ports: - - 3000:3000 - - 35729:35729 - volumes: - - ./docs:/app/docs - - ./website/blog:/app/website/blog - - ./website/core:/app/website/core - - ./website/i18n:/app/website/i18n - - ./website/pages:/app/website/pages - - ./website/static:/app/website/static - - ./website/sidebars.json:/app/website/sidebars.json - - ./website/siteConfig.js:/app/website/siteConfig.js - working_dir: /app/website diff --git a/resources/workshop/.inc/saturn/iso9001.md b/resources/workshop/.inc/saturn/iso9001.md deleted file mode 100644 index e69de29bb..000000000 diff --git a/resources/workshop/.inc/saturn/mc/fanuc2/fanuc incremental.cps b/resources/workshop/.inc/saturn/mc/fanuc2/fanuc incremental.cps deleted file mode 100644 index 96de547bf..000000000 --- a/resources/workshop/.inc/saturn/mc/fanuc2/fanuc incremental.cps +++ /dev/null @@ -1,2184 +0,0 @@ -/** - Copyright (C) 2012-2020 by Autodesk, Inc. - All rights reserved. - - FANUC post processor configuration. - - $Revision: 42645 dab327b1b16b423b75c69877cc91aea7ea31c0ac $ - $Date: 2020-02-06 06:32:21 $ - - FORKID {04622D27-72F0-45d4-85FB-DB346FD1AE22} -*/ - -description = "FANUC (with G91)"; -vendor = "Fanuc"; -vendorUrl = "http://www.fanuc.com"; -legal = "Copyright (C) 2012-2020 by Autodesk, Inc."; -certificationLevel = 2; -minimumRevision = 40783; - -longDescription = "Generic post for Fanuc using incremental (G91) values."; - -extension = "nc"; -programNameIsInteger = true; -setCodePage("ascii"); - -capabilities = CAPABILITY_MILLING; -tolerance = spatial(0.002, MM); - -minimumChordLength = spatial(0.25, MM); -minimumCircularRadius = spatial(0.01, MM); -maximumCircularRadius = spatial(1000, MM); -minimumCircularSweep = toRad(0.01); -maximumCircularSweep = toRad(180); -allowHelicalMoves = true; -allowedCircularPlanes = undefined; // allow any circular motion -highFeedrate = (unit == IN) ? 500 : 5000; - -// user-defined properties -properties = { - writeMachine: true, // write machine - writeTools: true, // writes the tools - preloadTool: true, // preloads next tool on tool change if any - showSequenceNumbers: true, // show sequence numbers - sequenceNumberStart: 10, // first sequence number - sequenceNumberIncrement: 5, // increment for sequence numbers - optionalStop: true, // optional stop - o8: false, // specifies 8-digit program number - separateWordsWithSpace: true, // specifies that the words should be separated with a white space - allow3DArcs: false, // specifies that 3D circular arcs are allowed - useRadius: false, // specifies that arcs should be output using the radius (R word) instead of the I, J, and K words - forceIJK: false, // force output of IJK for G2/G3 when not using R word - useIncremental: true, // specifies that incremental XYZABC should be output. - useParametricFeed: false, // specifies that feed should be output using Q values - showNotes: false, // specifies that operation notes should be output - useSmoothing: false, // specifies if smoothing should be used or not - usePitchForTapping: false, // enable to use pitch instead of feed for the F-word for canned tapping cycles - note that your CNC control must be setup for pitch mode! - useG95: false, // use IPR/MPR instead of IPM/MPM - useG54x4: false, // Fanuc 30i supports G54.4 for Workpiece Error Compensation - useRigidTapping: "yes" // output rigid tapping block -}; - -// user-defined property definitions -propertyDefinitions = { - writeMachine: {title:"Write machine", description:"Output the machine settings in the header of the code.", group:0, type:"boolean"}, - writeTools: {title:"Write tool list", description:"Output a tool list in the header of the code.", group:0, type:"boolean"}, - preloadTool: {title:"Preload tool", description:"Preloads the next tool at a tool change (if any).", group:1, type:"boolean"}, - showSequenceNumbers: {title:"Use sequence numbers", description:"Use sequence numbers for each block of outputted code.", group:1, type:"boolean"}, - sequenceNumberStart: {title:"Start sequence number", description:"The number at which to start the sequence numbers.", group:1, type:"integer"}, - sequenceNumberIncrement: {title:"Sequence number increment", description:"The amount by which the sequence number is incremented by in each block.", group:1, type:"integer"}, - optionalStop: {title:"Optional stop", description:"Outputs optional stop code during when necessary in the code.", type:"boolean"}, - o8: {title:"8 Digit program number", description:"Specifies that an 8 digit program number is needed.", type:"boolean"}, - separateWordsWithSpace: {title:"Separate words with space", description:"Adds spaces between words if 'yes' is selected.", type:"boolean"}, - allow3DArcs: {title:"Allow 3D arcs", description:"Specifies whether 3D circular arcs are allowed.", type:"boolean"}, - useRadius: {title:"Radius arcs", description:"If yes is selected, arcs are outputted using radius values rather than IJK.", type:"boolean"}, - forceIJK: {title:"Force IJK", description:"Force the output of IJK for G2/G3 when not using R mode.", type:"boolean"}, - useIncremental: {title:"Use Incremental", description:"Specifies whether incremental XYZABC should be output.", type:"boolean"}, - useParametricFeed: {title:"Parametric feed", description:"Specifies the feed value that should be output using a Q value.", type:"boolean"}, - showNotes: {title:"Show notes", description:"Writes operation notes as comments in the outputted code.", type:"boolean"}, - useSmoothing: {title:"Use smoothing", description:"Specifies if smoothing should be used or not.", type:"boolean"}, - usePitchForTapping: {title:"Use pitch for tapping", description:"Enables the use of pitch instead of feed for the F-word in canned tapping cycles. Your CNC control must be setup for pitch mode!", type:"boolean"}, - useG95: {title:"Use G95", description:"Use IPR/MPR instead of IPM/MPM.", type:"boolean"}, - useG54x4: {title:"Use G54.4", description:"Fanuc 30i supports G54.4 for workpiece error compensation.", type:"boolean"}, - useRigidTapping: { - title: "Use rigid tapping", - description: "Select 'Yes' to enable, 'No' to disable, or 'Without spindle direction' to enable rigid tapping without outputting the spindle direction block.", - type: "enum", - values:[ - {title:"Yes", id:"yes"}, - {title:"No", id:"no"}, - {title:"Without spindle direction", id:"without"} - ] - } -}; - -var singleLineCoolant = false; // specifies to output multiple coolant codes in one line rather than in separate lines -// samples: -// {id: COOLANT_THROUGH_TOOL, on: 88, off: 89} -// {id: COOLANT_THROUGH_TOOL, on: [8, 88], off: [9, 89]} -var coolants = [ - {id: COOLANT_FLOOD, on: 8}, - {id: COOLANT_MIST}, - {id: COOLANT_THROUGH_TOOL, on: 88, off: 89}, - {id: COOLANT_AIR}, - {id: COOLANT_AIR_THROUGH_TOOL}, - {id: COOLANT_SUCTION}, - {id: COOLANT_FLOOD_MIST}, - {id: COOLANT_FLOOD_THROUGH_TOOL}, - {id: COOLANT_OFF, off: 9} -]; - -var permittedCommentChars = " ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZ0123456789.,=_-"; - -var gFormat = createFormat({prefix:"G", width:2, zeropad:true, decimals:1}); -var mFormat = createFormat({prefix:"M", width:2, zeropad:true, decimals:1}); -var hFormat = createFormat({prefix:"H", width:2, zeropad:true, decimals:1}); -var dFormat = createFormat({prefix:"D", width:2, zeropad:true, decimals:1}); -var probe100Format = createFormat({decimals:3, zeropad:true, width:3, forceDecimal:true}); - -var xyzFormat = createFormat({decimals:(unit == MM ? 3 : 4), forceDecimal:true}); -var ijkFormat = createFormat({decimals:6, forceDecimal:true}); // unitless -var rFormat = xyzFormat; // radius -var abcFormat = createFormat({decimals:3, forceDecimal:true, scale:DEG}); -var feedFormat = createFormat({decimals:(unit == MM ? 0 : 1), forceDecimal:true}); -var pitchFormat = createFormat({decimals:(unit == MM ? 3 : 4), forceDecimal:true}); -var toolFormat = createFormat({decimals:0}); -var rpmFormat = createFormat({decimals:0}); -var secFormat = createFormat({decimals:3, forceDecimal:true}); // seconds - range 0.001-99999.999 -var milliFormat = createFormat({decimals:0}); // milliseconds // range 1-9999 -var taperFormat = createFormat({decimals:1, scale:DEG}); -var peckFormat = createFormat({decimals:(unit == MM ? 3 : 4), forceDecimal:true}); -// var peckFormat = createFormat({decimals:0, forceDecimal:false, trim:false, width:4, zeropad:true, scale:(unit == MM ? 1000 : 10000)}); - -var xOutput = createVariable({prefix:"X"}, xyzFormat); -var yOutput = createVariable({prefix:"Y"}, xyzFormat); -var zOutput = createVariable({onchange: function() {retracted = false;}, prefix:"Z"}, xyzFormat); -var aOutput = createVariable({prefix:"A"}, abcFormat); -var bOutput = createVariable({prefix:"B"}, abcFormat); -var cOutput = createVariable({prefix:"C"}, abcFormat); -var feedOutput = createVariable({prefix:"F"}, feedFormat); -var pitchOutput = createVariable({prefix:"F", force:true}, pitchFormat); -var sOutput = createVariable({prefix:"S", force:true}, rpmFormat); -var dOutput = createVariable({}, dFormat); -var peckOutput = createVariable({prefix:"Q", force:true}, peckFormat); - -// circular output -var iOutput = createReferenceVariable({prefix:"I"}, xyzFormat); -var jOutput = createReferenceVariable({prefix:"J"}, xyzFormat); -var kOutput = createReferenceVariable({prefix:"K"}, xyzFormat); - -var gMotionModal = createModal({}, gFormat); // modal group 1 // G0-G3, ... -var gPlaneModal = createModal({onchange:function () {gMotionModal.reset();}}, gFormat); // modal group 2 // G17-19 -var gAbsIncModal = createModal({}, gFormat); // modal group 3 // G90-91 -var gFeedModeModal = createModal({}, gFormat); // modal group 5 // G94-95 -var gUnitModal = createModal({}, gFormat); // modal group 6 // G20-21 -var gCycleModal = createModal({}, gFormat); // modal group 9 // G81, ... -var gRetractModal = createModal({}, gFormat); // modal group 10 // G98-99 -var gRotationModal = createModal({}, gFormat); // modal group 16 // G68-G69 - -// fixed settings -var firstFeedParameter = 500; -var useMultiAxisFeatures = true; -var forceMultiAxisIndexing = false; // force multi-axis indexing for 3D programs -var cancelTiltFirst = false; // cancel G68.2 with G69 prior to G54-G59 WCS block -var useABCPrepositioning = false; // position ABC axes prior to G68.2 block - -var WARNING_WORK_OFFSET = 0; - -var ANGLE_PROBE_NOT_SUPPORTED = 0; -var ANGLE_PROBE_USE_ROTATION = 1; -var ANGLE_PROBE_USE_CAXIS = 2; - -// collected state -var sequenceNumber; -var currentWorkOffset; -var useIncremental = false; -var optionalSection = false; -var forceSpindleSpeed = false; -var activeMovements; // do not use by default -var currentFeedId; -var g68RotationMode = 0; -var angularProbingMode; -var retracted = false; // specifies that the tool has been retracted to the safe plane -probeMultipleFeatures = true; - -/** - Writes the specified block. -*/ -function writeBlock() { - var text = formatWords(arguments); - if (!text) { - return; - } - if (properties.showSequenceNumbers) { - if (optionalSection) { - if (text) { - writeWords("/", "N" + sequenceNumber, text); - } - } else { - writeWords2("N" + sequenceNumber, arguments); - } - sequenceNumber += properties.sequenceNumberIncrement; - } else { - if (optionalSection) { - writeWords2("/", arguments); - } else { - writeWords(arguments); - } - } -} - -/** - Writes the specified optional block. -*/ -function writeOptionalBlock() { - if (properties.showSequenceNumbers) { - var words = formatWords(arguments); - if (words) { - writeWords("/", "N" + sequenceNumber, words); - sequenceNumber += properties.sequenceNumberIncrement; - } - } else { - writeWords2("/", arguments); - } -} - -function formatComment(text) { - return "(" + filterText(String(text).toUpperCase(), permittedCommentChars).replace(/[()]/g, "") + ")"; -} - -/** - Output a comment. -*/ -function writeComment(text) { - writeln(formatComment(text)); -} - -function onOpen() { - if (properties.useRadius) { - maximumCircularSweep = toRad(90); // avoid potential center calculation errors for CNC - } - gRotationModal.format(69); // Default to G69 Rotation Off - - if (false) { // note: setup your machine here - var aAxis = createAxis({coordinate:0, table:false, axis:[1, 0, 0], range:[-360, 360], preference:1}); - var cAxis = createAxis({coordinate:2, table:false, axis:[0, 0, 1], range:[-360, 360], preference:1}); - machineConfiguration = new MachineConfiguration(aAxis, cAxis); - - setMachineConfiguration(machineConfiguration); - optimizeMachineAngles2(0); // TCP mode - } - - if (!machineConfiguration.isMachineCoordinate(0)) { - aOutput.disable(); - } - if (!machineConfiguration.isMachineCoordinate(1)) { - bOutput.disable(); - } - if (!machineConfiguration.isMachineCoordinate(2)) { - cOutput.disable(); - } - - if (!properties.separateWordsWithSpace) { - setWordSeparator(""); - } - - if (properties.forceIJK) { - iOutput = createReferenceVariable({prefix:"I", force:true}, xyzFormat); - jOutput = createReferenceVariable({prefix:"J", force:true}, xyzFormat); - kOutput = createReferenceVariable({prefix:"K", force:true}, xyzFormat); - } - - sequenceNumber = properties.sequenceNumberStart; - writeln("%"); - - if (programName) { - var programId; - try { - programId = getAsInt(programName); - } catch (e) { - error(localize("Program name must be a number.")); - return; - } - if (properties.o8) { - if (!((programId >= 1) && (programId <= 99999999))) { - error(localize("Program number is out of range.")); - return; - } - } else { - if (!((programId >= 1) && (programId <= 9999))) { - error(localize("Program number is out of range.")); - return; - } - } - if ((programId >= 8000) && (programId <= 9999)) { - warning(localize("Program number is reserved by tool builder.")); - } - var oFormat = createFormat({width:(properties.o8 ? 8 : 4), zeropad:true, decimals:0}); - if (programComment) { - writeln("O" + oFormat.format(programId) + " (" + filterText(String(programComment).toUpperCase(), permittedCommentChars) + ")"); - } else { - writeln("O" + oFormat.format(programId)); - } - } else { - error(localize("Program name has not been specified.")); - return; - } - - // dump machine configuration - var vendor = machineConfiguration.getVendor(); - var model = machineConfiguration.getModel(); - var description = machineConfiguration.getDescription(); - - if (properties.writeMachine && (vendor || model || description)) { - writeComment(localize("Machine")); - if (vendor) { - writeComment(" " + localize("vendor") + ": " + vendor); - } - if (model) { - writeComment(" " + localize("model") + ": " + model); - } - if (description) { - writeComment(" " + localize("description") + ": " + description); - } - } - - // dump tool information - if (properties.writeTools) { - var zRanges = {}; - if (is3D()) { - var numberOfSections = getNumberOfSections(); - for (var i = 0; i < numberOfSections; ++i) { - var section = getSection(i); - var zRange = section.getGlobalZRange(); - var tool = section.getTool(); - if (zRanges[tool.number]) { - zRanges[tool.number].expandToRange(zRange); - } else { - zRanges[tool.number] = zRange; - } - } - } - - var tools = getToolTable(); - if (tools.getNumberOfTools() > 0) { - for (var i = 0; i < tools.getNumberOfTools(); ++i) { - var tool = tools.getTool(i); - var comment = "T" + toolFormat.format(tool.number) + " " + - "D=" + xyzFormat.format(tool.diameter) + " " + - localize("CR") + "=" + xyzFormat.format(tool.cornerRadius); - if ((tool.taperAngle > 0) && (tool.taperAngle < Math.PI)) { - comment += " " + localize("TAPER") + "=" + taperFormat.format(tool.taperAngle) + localize("deg"); - } - if (zRanges[tool.number]) { - comment += " - " + localize("ZMIN") + "=" + xyzFormat.format(zRanges[tool.number].getMinimum()); - } - comment += " - " + getToolTypeName(tool.type); - writeComment(comment); - } - } - } - - if (false) { - // check for duplicate tool number - for (var i = 0; i < getNumberOfSections(); ++i) { - var sectioni = getSection(i); - var tooli = sectioni.getTool(); - for (var j = i + 1; j < getNumberOfSections(); ++j) { - var sectionj = getSection(j); - var toolj = sectionj.getTool(); - if (tooli.number == toolj.number) { - if (xyzFormat.areDifferent(tooli.diameter, toolj.diameter) || - xyzFormat.areDifferent(tooli.cornerRadius, toolj.cornerRadius) || - abcFormat.areDifferent(tooli.taperAngle, toolj.taperAngle) || - (tooli.numberOfFlutes != toolj.numberOfFlutes)) { - error( - subst( - localize("Using the same tool number for different cutter geometry for operation '%1' and '%2'."), - sectioni.hasParameter("operation-comment") ? sectioni.getParameter("operation-comment") : ("#" + (i + 1)), - sectionj.hasParameter("operation-comment") ? sectionj.getParameter("operation-comment") : ("#" + (j + 1)) - ) - ); - return; - } - } - } - } - } - - if ((getNumberOfSections() > 0) && (getSection(0).workOffset == 0)) { - for (var i = 0; i < getNumberOfSections(); ++i) { - if (getSection(i).workOffset > 0) { - error(localize("Using multiple work offsets is not possible if the initial work offset is 0.")); - return; - } - } - } - - // absolute coordinates and feed per min - writeBlock(gAbsIncModal.format(90), gFeedModeModal.format(properties.useG95 ? 95 : 94), gPlaneModal.format(17), gFormat.format(49), gFormat.format(40), gFormat.format(80)); - - switch (unit) { - case IN: - writeBlock(gUnitModal.format(20)); - break; - case MM: - writeBlock(gUnitModal.format(21)); - break; - } - - if (properties.useG95 && properties.useParametricFeed) { - error(localize("Parametric feed is not supported when using G95.")); - return; - } - - if (properties.useG95) { - feedFormat = createFormat({decimals:(unit == MM ? 4 : 5), forceDecimal:true}); - feedOutput = createVariable({prefix:"F"}, feedFormat); - } -} - -function onComment(message) { - var comments = String(message).split(";"); - for (comment in comments) { - writeComment(comments[comment]); - } -} - -/** Force output of X, Y, and Z. */ -function forceXYZ() { - xOutput.reset(); - yOutput.reset(); - zOutput.reset(); -} - -/** Force output of A, B, and C. */ -function forceABC() { - aOutput.reset(); - bOutput.reset(); - cOutput.reset(); -} - -function forceFeed() { - currentFeedId = undefined; - feedOutput.reset(); -} - -/** Force output of X, Y, Z, A, B, C, and F on next output. */ -function forceAny() { - forceXYZ(); - forceABC(); - forceFeed(); -} - -var lengthCompensationActive = false; - -/** Disables length compensation if currently active or if forced. */ -function disableLengthCompensation(force) { - if (lengthCompensationActive || force) { - validate(retracted, "Cannot cancel length compensation if the machine is not fully retracted."); - writeBlock(gFormat.format(49)); - lengthCompensationActive = false; - } -} - -var currentSmoothing = false; - -function setSmoothing(mode) { - if (mode == currentSmoothing) { - return false; - } - - // 1) Make sure G49 is called before the execution of G05.1 Q1 Rx - // 2) G05.1 Q1 Rx must be engaged BEFORE G43-Tool Length Comp - // 3) AICC and AIAPC need to be turned on and off for each tool - // 4) AICC and AIAPC does not apply to canned drilling cycles - validate(!lengthCompensationActive, "Length compensation is active while trying to update smoothing."); - - currentSmoothing = mode; - writeBlock(gFormat.format(5.1), mode ? "Q1" : "Q0"); - return true; -} - -function FeedContext(id, description, feed) { - this.id = id; - this.description = description; - this.feed = feed; -} - -function getFeed(f) { - if (properties.useG95) { - return feedOutput.format(f / spindleSpeed); // use feed value - } - if (activeMovements) { - var feedContext = activeMovements[movement]; - if (feedContext != undefined) { - if (!feedFormat.areDifferent(feedContext.feed, f)) { - if (feedContext.id == currentFeedId) { - return ""; // nothing has changed - } - forceFeed(); - currentFeedId = feedContext.id; - return "F#" + (firstFeedParameter + feedContext.id); - } - } - currentFeedId = undefined; // force Q feed next time - } - return feedOutput.format(f); // use feed value -} - -function initializeActiveFeeds() { - activeMovements = new Array(); - var movements = currentSection.getMovements(); - - var id = 0; - var activeFeeds = new Array(); - if (hasParameter("operation:tool_feedCutting")) { - if (movements & ((1 << MOVEMENT_CUTTING) | (1 << MOVEMENT_LINK_TRANSITION) | (1 << MOVEMENT_EXTENDED))) { - var feedContext = new FeedContext(id, localize("Cutting"), getParameter("operation:tool_feedCutting")); - activeFeeds.push(feedContext); - activeMovements[MOVEMENT_CUTTING] = feedContext; - activeMovements[MOVEMENT_LINK_TRANSITION] = feedContext; - activeMovements[MOVEMENT_EXTENDED] = feedContext; - } - ++id; - if (movements & (1 << MOVEMENT_PREDRILL)) { - feedContext = new FeedContext(id, localize("Predrilling"), getParameter("operation:tool_feedCutting")); - activeMovements[MOVEMENT_PREDRILL] = feedContext; - activeFeeds.push(feedContext); - } - ++id; - } - - if (hasParameter("operation:finishFeedrate")) { - if (movements & (1 << MOVEMENT_FINISH_CUTTING)) { - var feedContext = new FeedContext(id, localize("Finish"), getParameter("operation:finishFeedrate")); - activeFeeds.push(feedContext); - activeMovements[MOVEMENT_FINISH_CUTTING] = feedContext; - } - ++id; - } else if (hasParameter("operation:tool_feedCutting")) { - if (movements & (1 << MOVEMENT_FINISH_CUTTING)) { - var feedContext = new FeedContext(id, localize("Finish"), getParameter("operation:tool_feedCutting")); - activeFeeds.push(feedContext); - activeMovements[MOVEMENT_FINISH_CUTTING] = feedContext; - } - ++id; - } - - if (hasParameter("operation:tool_feedEntry")) { - if (movements & (1 << MOVEMENT_LEAD_IN)) { - var feedContext = new FeedContext(id, localize("Entry"), getParameter("operation:tool_feedEntry")); - activeFeeds.push(feedContext); - activeMovements[MOVEMENT_LEAD_IN] = feedContext; - } - ++id; - } - - if (hasParameter("operation:tool_feedExit")) { - if (movements & (1 << MOVEMENT_LEAD_OUT)) { - var feedContext = new FeedContext(id, localize("Exit"), getParameter("operation:tool_feedExit")); - activeFeeds.push(feedContext); - activeMovements[MOVEMENT_LEAD_OUT] = feedContext; - } - ++id; - } - - if (hasParameter("operation:noEngagementFeedrate")) { - if (movements & (1 << MOVEMENT_LINK_DIRECT)) { - var feedContext = new FeedContext(id, localize("Direct"), getParameter("operation:noEngagementFeedrate")); - activeFeeds.push(feedContext); - activeMovements[MOVEMENT_LINK_DIRECT] = feedContext; - } - ++id; - } else if (hasParameter("operation:tool_feedCutting") && - hasParameter("operation:tool_feedEntry") && - hasParameter("operation:tool_feedExit")) { - if (movements & (1 << MOVEMENT_LINK_DIRECT)) { - var feedContext = new FeedContext(id, localize("Direct"), Math.max(getParameter("operation:tool_feedCutting"), getParameter("operation:tool_feedEntry"), getParameter("operation:tool_feedExit"))); - activeFeeds.push(feedContext); - activeMovements[MOVEMENT_LINK_DIRECT] = feedContext; - } - ++id; - } - - if (hasParameter("operation:reducedFeedrate")) { - if (movements & (1 << MOVEMENT_REDUCED)) { - var feedContext = new FeedContext(id, localize("Reduced"), getParameter("operation:reducedFeedrate")); - activeFeeds.push(feedContext); - activeMovements[MOVEMENT_REDUCED] = feedContext; - } - ++id; - } - - if (hasParameter("operation:tool_feedRamp")) { - if (movements & ((1 << MOVEMENT_RAMP) | (1 << MOVEMENT_RAMP_HELIX) | (1 << MOVEMENT_RAMP_PROFILE) | (1 << MOVEMENT_RAMP_ZIG_ZAG))) { - var feedContext = new FeedContext(id, localize("Ramping"), getParameter("operation:tool_feedRamp")); - activeFeeds.push(feedContext); - activeMovements[MOVEMENT_RAMP] = feedContext; - activeMovements[MOVEMENT_RAMP_HELIX] = feedContext; - activeMovements[MOVEMENT_RAMP_PROFILE] = feedContext; - activeMovements[MOVEMENT_RAMP_ZIG_ZAG] = feedContext; - } - ++id; - } - if (hasParameter("operation:tool_feedPlunge")) { - if (movements & (1 << MOVEMENT_PLUNGE)) { - var feedContext = new FeedContext(id, localize("Plunge"), getParameter("operation:tool_feedPlunge")); - activeFeeds.push(feedContext); - activeMovements[MOVEMENT_PLUNGE] = feedContext; - } - ++id; - } - if (true) { // high feed - if (movements & (1 << MOVEMENT_HIGH_FEED)) { - var feedContext = new FeedContext(id, localize("High Feed"), this.highFeedrate); - activeFeeds.push(feedContext); - activeMovements[MOVEMENT_HIGH_FEED] = feedContext; - } - ++id; - } - - for (var i = 0; i < activeFeeds.length; ++i) { - var feedContext = activeFeeds[i]; - writeBlock("#" + (firstFeedParameter + feedContext.id) + "=" + feedFormat.format(feedContext.feed), formatComment(feedContext.description)); - } -} - -var currentWorkPlaneABC = undefined; - -function forceWorkPlane() { - currentWorkPlaneABC = undefined; -} - -function cancelWorkPlane() { - writeBlock(gRotationModal.format(69)); // cancel frame - forceWorkPlane(); -} - -function setWorkPlane(abc) { - if (!forceMultiAxisIndexing && is3D() && !machineConfiguration.isMultiAxisConfiguration()) { - return; // ignore - } - - if (!((currentWorkPlaneABC == undefined) || - abcFormat.areDifferent(abc.x, currentWorkPlaneABC.x) || - abcFormat.areDifferent(abc.y, currentWorkPlaneABC.y) || - abcFormat.areDifferent(abc.z, currentWorkPlaneABC.z))) { - return; // no change - } - - onCommand(COMMAND_UNLOCK_MULTI_AXIS); - if (!retracted) { - writeRetract(Z); - } - - if (useMultiAxisFeatures) { - if (cancelTiltFirst) { - cancelWorkPlane(); - } - if (machineConfiguration.isMultiAxisConfiguration() && useABCPrepositioning) { - var angles = abc.isNonZero() ? getWorkPlaneMachineABC(currentSection.workPlane, false, false) : abc; - gMotionModal.reset(); - writeBlock( - gMotionModal.format(0), - conditional(machineConfiguration.isMachineCoordinate(0), "A" + abcFormat.format(angles.x)), - conditional(machineConfiguration.isMachineCoordinate(1), "B" + abcFormat.format(angles.y)), - conditional(machineConfiguration.isMachineCoordinate(2), "C" + abcFormat.format(angles.z)) - ); - } - if (abc.isNonZero()) { - gRotationModal.reset(); - writeBlock(gRotationModal.format(68.2), "X" + xyzFormat.format(0), "Y" + xyzFormat.format(0), "Z" + xyzFormat.format(0), "I" + abcFormat.format(abc.x), "J" + abcFormat.format(abc.y), "K" + abcFormat.format(abc.z)); // set frame - writeBlock(gFormat.format(53.1)); // turn machine - } else { - if (!cancelTiltFirst) { - cancelWorkPlane(); - } - } - } else { - gMotionModal.reset(); - writeBlock( - gMotionModal.format(0), - conditional(machineConfiguration.isMachineCoordinate(0), "A" + abcFormat.format(abc.x)), - conditional(machineConfiguration.isMachineCoordinate(1), "B" + abcFormat.format(abc.y)), - conditional(machineConfiguration.isMachineCoordinate(2), "C" + abcFormat.format(abc.z)) - ); - } - - onCommand(COMMAND_LOCK_MULTI_AXIS); - - currentWorkPlaneABC = abc; -} - -var closestABC = false; // choose closest machine angles -var currentMachineABC; - -function getWorkPlaneMachineABC(workPlane, _setWorkPlane, rotate) { - var W = workPlane; // map to global frame - - var abc = machineConfiguration.getABC(W); - if (closestABC) { - if (currentMachineABC) { - abc = machineConfiguration.remapToABC(abc, currentMachineABC); - } else { - abc = machineConfiguration.getPreferredABC(abc); - } - } else { - abc = machineConfiguration.getPreferredABC(abc); - } - - try { - abc = machineConfiguration.remapABC(abc); - if (_setWorkPlane) { - currentMachineABC = abc; - } - } catch (e) { - error( - localize("Machine angles not supported") + ":" - + conditional(machineConfiguration.isMachineCoordinate(0), " A" + abcFormat.format(abc.x)) - + conditional(machineConfiguration.isMachineCoordinate(1), " B" + abcFormat.format(abc.y)) - + conditional(machineConfiguration.isMachineCoordinate(2), " C" + abcFormat.format(abc.z)) - ); - } - - var direction = machineConfiguration.getDirection(abc); - if (!isSameDirection(direction, W.forward)) { - error(localize("Orientation not supported.")); - } - - if (!machineConfiguration.isABCSupported(abc)) { - error( - localize("Work plane is not supported") + ":" - + conditional(machineConfiguration.isMachineCoordinate(0), " A" + abcFormat.format(abc.x)) - + conditional(machineConfiguration.isMachineCoordinate(1), " B" + abcFormat.format(abc.y)) - + conditional(machineConfiguration.isMachineCoordinate(2), " C" + abcFormat.format(abc.z)) - ); - } - - if (rotate) { - var tcp = false; - if (tcp) { - setRotation(W); // TCP mode - } else { - var O = machineConfiguration.getOrientation(abc); - var R = machineConfiguration.getRemainingOrientation(abc, W); - setRotation(R); - } - } - - return abc; -} - -function isProbeOperation() { - return hasParameter("operation-strategy") && ((getParameter("operation-strategy") == "probe" || getParameter("operation-strategy") == "probe_geometry")); -} - -var probeOutputWorkOffset = 1; - -function onParameter(name, value) { - if (name == "probe-output-work-offset") { - probeOutputWorkOffset = (value > 0) ? value : 1; - } -} - -function onSection() { - var forceToolAndRetract = optionalSection && !currentSection.isOptional(); - optionalSection = currentSection.isOptional(); - - var insertToolCall = forceToolAndRetract || isFirstSection() || - currentSection.getForceToolChange && currentSection.getForceToolChange() || - (tool.number != getPreviousSection().getTool().number); - - var newWorkOffset = isFirstSection() || - (getPreviousSection().workOffset != currentSection.workOffset); // work offset changes - var newWorkPlane = isFirstSection() || - !isSameDirection(getPreviousSection().getGlobalFinalToolAxis(), currentSection.getGlobalInitialToolAxis()) || - (currentSection.isOptimizedForMachine() && getPreviousSection().isOptimizedForMachine() && - Vector.diff(getPreviousSection().getFinalToolAxisABC(), currentSection.getInitialToolAxisABC()).length > 1e-4) || - (!machineConfiguration.isMultiAxisConfiguration() && currentSection.isMultiAxis()) || - (!getPreviousSection().isMultiAxis() && currentSection.isMultiAxis() || - getPreviousSection().isMultiAxis() && !currentSection.isMultiAxis()); // force newWorkPlane between indexing and simultaneous operations - var forceSmoothing = properties.useSmoothing && - (hasParameter("operation-strategy") && (getParameter("operation-strategy") == "drill") || - !isFirstSection() && getPreviousSection().hasParameter("operation-strategy") && (getPreviousSection().getParameter("operation-strategy") == "drill")); // force smoothing in case !insertToolCall (2d chamfer) - if (insertToolCall || newWorkOffset || newWorkPlane || forceSmoothing) { - - // stop spindle before retract during tool change - if (insertToolCall && !isFirstSection()) { - onCommand(COMMAND_STOP_SPINDLE); - } - - // retract to safe plane - writeRetract(Z); - writeBlock(gAbsIncModal.format(90)); - forceXYZ(); - if ((insertToolCall && !isFirstSection()) || forceSmoothing) { - disableLengthCompensation(); - setSmoothing(false); - } - } - - writeln(""); - - if (hasParameter("operation-comment")) { - var comment = getParameter("operation-comment"); - if (comment) { - writeComment(comment); - } - } - - if (properties.showNotes && hasParameter("notes")) { - var notes = getParameter("notes"); - if (notes) { - var lines = String(notes).split("\n"); - var r1 = new RegExp("^[\\s]+", "g"); - var r2 = new RegExp("[\\s]+$", "g"); - for (line in lines) { - var comment = lines[line].replace(r1, "").replace(r2, ""); - if (comment) { - writeComment(comment); - } - } - } - } - - if (insertToolCall) { - forceWorkPlane(); - - setCoolant(COOLANT_OFF); - - if (!isFirstSection() && properties.optionalStop) { - onCommand(COMMAND_OPTIONAL_STOP); - } - - if (tool.number > 99) { - warning(localize("Tool number exceeds maximum value.")); - } - - disableLengthCompensation(); - writeBlock("T" + toolFormat.format(tool.number), mFormat.format(6)); - if (tool.comment) { - writeComment(tool.comment); - } - var showToolZMin = false; - if (showToolZMin) { - if (is3D()) { - var numberOfSections = getNumberOfSections(); - var zRange = currentSection.getGlobalZRange(); - var number = tool.number; - for (var i = currentSection.getId() + 1; i < numberOfSections; ++i) { - var section = getSection(i); - if (section.getTool().number != number) { - break; - } - zRange.expandToRange(section.getGlobalZRange()); - } - writeComment(localize("ZMIN") + "=" + zRange.getMinimum()); - } - } - - if (properties.preloadTool) { - var nextTool = getNextTool(tool.number); - if (nextTool) { - writeBlock("T" + toolFormat.format(nextTool.number)); - } else { - // preload first tool - var section = getSection(0); - var firstToolNumber = section.getTool().number; - if (tool.number != firstToolNumber) { - writeBlock("T" + toolFormat.format(firstToolNumber)); - } - } - } - } - - if (!isProbeOperation() && - (insertToolCall || - forceSpindleSpeed || - isFirstSection() || - (rpmFormat.areDifferent(spindleSpeed, sOutput.getCurrent())) || - (tool.clockwise != getPreviousSection().getTool().clockwise))) { - forceSpindleSpeed = false; - - if (spindleSpeed < 1) { - error(localize("Spindle speed out of range.")); - return; - } - if (spindleSpeed > 99999) { - warning(localize("Spindle speed exceeds maximum value.")); - } - var tapping = hasParameter("operation:cycleType") && - ((getParameter("operation:cycleType") == "tapping") || - (getParameter("operation:cycleType") == "right-tapping") || - (getParameter("operation:cycleType") == "left-tapping") || - (getParameter("operation:cycleType") == "tapping-with-chip-breaking")); - if (!tapping || (tapping && !(properties.useRigidTapping == "without"))) { - writeBlock( - sOutput.format(spindleSpeed), mFormat.format(tool.clockwise ? 3 : 4) - ); - } - - onCommand(COMMAND_START_CHIP_TRANSPORT); - if (forceMultiAxisIndexing || !is3D() || machineConfiguration.isMultiAxisConfiguration()) { - // writeBlock(mFormat.format(xxx)); // shortest path traverse - } - } - - // wcs - if (insertToolCall) { // force work offset when changing tool - currentWorkOffset = undefined; - } - var workOffset = currentSection.workOffset; - if (workOffset == 0) { - warningOnce(localize("Work offset has not been specified. Using G54 as WCS."), WARNING_WORK_OFFSET); - workOffset = 1; - } - if (workOffset != currentWorkOffset) { - if (cancelTiltFirst) { - cancelWorkPlane(); - } - forceWorkPlane(); - } - if (workOffset > 0) { - if (workOffset > 6) { - var p = workOffset - 6; // 1->... - if (p > 300) { - error(localize("Work offset out of range.")); - return; - } else { - if (workOffset != currentWorkOffset) { - writeBlock(gFormat.format(54.1), "P" + p); // G54.1P - currentWorkOffset = workOffset; - } - } - } else { - if (workOffset != currentWorkOffset) { - writeBlock(gFormat.format(53 + workOffset)); // G54->G59 - currentWorkOffset = workOffset; - } - } - } - - forceXYZ(); - - if (forceMultiAxisIndexing || !is3D() || machineConfiguration.isMultiAxisConfiguration()) { // use 5-axis indexing for multi-axis mode - // set working plane after datum shift - - if (currentSection.isMultiAxis()) { - forceWorkPlane(); - cancelTransformation(); - } else { - var abc = new Vector(0, 0, 0); - if (useMultiAxisFeatures) { - var euler = currentSection.workPlane.getEuler2(EULER_ZXZ_R); - abc = new Vector(euler.x, euler.y, euler.z); - cancelTransformation(); - } else { - abc = getWorkPlaneMachineABC(currentSection.workPlane, true, true); - } - setWorkPlane(abc); - } - } else { // pure 3D - var remaining = currentSection.workPlane; - if (!isSameDirection(remaining.forward, new Vector(0, 0, 1))) { - error(localize("Tool orientation is not supported.")); - return; - } - setRotation(remaining); - } - - // set coolant after we have positioned at Z - setCoolant(tool.coolant); - - if (properties.useSmoothing) { - if (hasParameter("operation-strategy") && (getParameter("operation-strategy") != "drill")) { - if (setSmoothing(true)) { - // we force G43 using lengthCompensationActive - } - } else { - if (setSmoothing(false)) { - // we force G43 using lengthCompensationActive - } - } - } - - forceAny(); - gMotionModal.reset(); - - var initialPosition = getFramePosition(currentSection.getInitialPosition()); - if (!retracted && !insertToolCall) { - if (getCurrentPosition().z < initialPosition.z) { - writeBlock(gAbsIncModal.format(90), gMotionModal.format(0), zOutput.format(initialPosition.z)); - } - } - - if (insertToolCall || !lengthCompensationActive || retracted || (!isFirstSection() && getPreviousSection().isMultiAxis())) { - var lengthOffset = tool.lengthOffset; - if (lengthOffset > 99) { - error(localize("Length offset out of range.")); - return; - } - - gMotionModal.reset(); - writeBlock(gPlaneModal.format(17)); - - // cancel compensation prior to enabling it, required when switching G43/G43.4 modes - disableLengthCompensation(false); - - // assumes a Head configuration uses TCP on a Fanuc controller - var offsetCode = 43; - if (currentSection.isMultiAxis()) { - if (machineConfiguration.isMultiAxisConfiguration() && (currentSection.getOptimizedTCPMode() == 0)) { - offsetCode = 43.4; - } else if (!machineConfiguration.isMultiAxisConfiguration()) { - offsetCode = 43.5; - } - } - - if (!machineConfiguration.isHeadConfiguration()) { - writeBlock( - gAbsIncModal.format(90), - gMotionModal.format(0), xOutput.format(initialPosition.x), yOutput.format(initialPosition.y) - ); - writeBlock( - gMotionModal.format(0), - gFormat.format(offsetCode), - zOutput.format(initialPosition.z), - hFormat.format(lengthOffset) - ); - lengthCompensationActive = true; - } else { - writeBlock( - gAbsIncModal.format(90), - gMotionModal.format(0), - gFormat.format(offsetCode), - xOutput.format(initialPosition.x), - yOutput.format(initialPosition.y), - zOutput.format(initialPosition.z), hFormat.format(lengthOffset) - ); - lengthCompensationActive = true; - } - - gMotionModal.reset(); - } else { - writeBlock( - gAbsIncModal.format(90), - gMotionModal.format(0), - xOutput.format(initialPosition.x), - yOutput.format(initialPosition.y) - ); - } - - validate(lengthCompensationActive, "Length compensation is not active."); - - if (properties.useParametricFeed && - hasParameter("operation-strategy") && - (getParameter("operation-strategy") != "drill") && // legacy - !(currentSection.hasAnyCycle && currentSection.hasAnyCycle())) { - if (!insertToolCall && - activeMovements && - (getCurrentSectionId() > 0) && - ((getPreviousSection().getPatternId() == currentSection.getPatternId()) && (currentSection.getPatternId() != 0))) { - // use the current feeds - } else { - initializeActiveFeeds(); - } - } else { - activeMovements = undefined; - } - - if (isProbeOperation()) { - if (g68RotationMode != 0) { - error(localize("You cannot probe while G68 Rotation is in effect.")); - return; - } - angularProbingMode = getAngularProbingMode(); - writeBlock(gFormat.format(65), "P" + 9832); // spin the probe on - } - - retracted = false; - - if (properties.useIncremental && !isProbeOperation()) { - writeBlock(gAbsIncModal.format(91)); - xOutput = createIncrementalVariable({prefix:"X"}, xyzFormat); - xOutput.format(initialPosition.x); - xOutput.format(initialPosition.x); - yOutput = createIncrementalVariable({prefix:"Y"}, xyzFormat); - yOutput.format(initialPosition.y); - yOutput.format(initialPosition.y); - zOutput = createIncrementalVariable({prefix:"Z"}, xyzFormat); - zOutput.format(initialPosition.z); - zOutput.format(initialPosition.z); - - var abc = new Vector(); // TAG: set if using multi-axis machine - aOutput = createIncrementalVariable({prefix:"A"}, abcFormat); - aOutput.format(abc.x); - aOutput.format(abc.x); - bOutput = createIncrementalVariable({prefix:"B"}, abcFormat); - bOutput.format(abc.y); - bOutput.format(abc.y); - cOutput = createIncrementalVariable({prefix:"C"}, abcFormat); - cOutput.format(abc.z); - cOutput.format(abc.z); - - useIncremental = true; - } else { - xOutput = createVariable({prefix:"X"}, xyzFormat); - yOutput = createVariable({prefix:"Y"}, xyzFormat); - zOutput = createVariable({prefix:"Z"}, xyzFormat); - aOutput = createVariable({prefix:"A"}, abcFormat); - bOutput = createVariable({prefix:"B"}, abcFormat); - cOutput = createVariable({prefix:"C"}, abcFormat); - } -} - -function onDwell(seconds) { - if (seconds > 99999.999) { - warning(localize("Dwelling time is out of range.")); - } - milliseconds = clamp(1, seconds * 1000, 99999999); - writeBlock(gFeedModeModal.format(94), gFormat.format(4), "P" + milliFormat.format(milliseconds)); - writeBlock(gFeedModeModal.format(properties.useG95 ? 95 : 94)); // back to G95 -} - -function onSpindleSpeed(spindleSpeed) { - writeBlock(sOutput.format(spindleSpeed)); -} - -function onCycle() { - writeBlock(gPlaneModal.format(17)); -} - -function getCommonCycle(x, y, z, r) { - forceXYZ(); // force xyz on first drill hole of any cycle - if (useIncremental) { - return [xOutput.format(x), yOutput.format(y), - "Z" + xyzFormat.format(z - r), - "R" + xyzFormat.format(r - zOutput.getCurrent())]; - } else { - return [xOutput.format(x), yOutput.format(y), - zOutput.format(z), - "R" + xyzFormat.format(r)]; - } -} - -/** Convert approach to sign. */ -function approach(value) { - validate((value == "positive") || (value == "negative"), "Invalid approach."); - return (value == "positive") ? 1 : -1; -} - -/** - Determine if angular probing is supported -*/ -function getAngularProbingMode() { - if (machineConfiguration.isMultiAxisConfiguration()) { - if (machineConfiguration.isMachineCoordinate(2)) { - return ANGLE_PROBE_USE_CAXIS; - } else { - return ANGLE_PROBE_NOT_SUPPORTED; - } - } else { - return ANGLE_PROBE_USE_ROTATION; - } -} - -/** - Output rotation offset based on angular probing cycle. -*/ -function setProbingAngle() { - if ((g68RotationMode == 1) || (g68RotationMode == 2)) { // Rotate coordinate system for Angle Probing - if (!properties.useG54x4) { - gRotationModal.reset(); - gAbsIncModal.reset(); - writeBlock( - gRotationModal.format(68), gAbsIncModal.format(90), - (g68RotationMode == 1) ? "X0" : "X[#135]", - (g68RotationMode == 1) ? "Y0" : "Y[#136]", - "Z0", "I0.0", "J0.0", "K1.0", "R[#139]" - ); - g68RotationMode = 3; - } else if (angularProbingMode != ANGLE_PROBE_NOT_SUPPORTED) { - writeBlock("#26010=#135"); - writeBlock("#26011=#136"); - writeBlock("#26012=#137"); - writeBlock("#26015=#139"); - writeBlock(gFormat.format(54.4), "P1"); - g68RotationMode = 0; - } else { - error(localize("Angular probing is not supported for this machine configuration.")); - return; - } - } -} - -function protectedProbeMove(_cycle, x, y, z) { - var _x = xOutput.format(x); - var _y = yOutput.format(y); - var _z = zOutput.format(z); - if (_z && z >= getCurrentPosition().z) { - writeBlock(gFormat.format(65), "P" + 9810, _z, getFeed(cycle.feedrate)); // protected positioning move - } - if (_x || _y) { - writeBlock(gFormat.format(65), "P" + 9810, _x, _y, getFeed(highFeedrate)); // protected positioning move - } - if (_z && z < getCurrentPosition().z) { - writeBlock(gFormat.format(65), "P" + 9810, _z, getFeed(cycle.feedrate)); // protected positioning move - } -} - -function onCyclePoint(x, y, z) { - if (!isSameDirection(getRotation().forward, new Vector(0, 0, 1))) { - expandCyclePoint(x, y, z); - return; - } - var probeWorkOffsetCode; - if (isProbeOperation()) { - if (!useMultiAxisFeatures && !isSameDirection(currentSection.workPlane.forward, new Vector(0, 0, 1)) && (!cycle.probeMode || (cycle.probeMode == 0))) { - error(localize("Updating WCS / work offset using probing is only supported by the CNC in the WCS frame.")); - return; - } - protectedProbeMove(cycle, x, y, z); - - var workOffset = probeOutputWorkOffset ? probeOutputWorkOffset : currentWorkOffset; - if (workOffset > 99) { - error(localize("Work offset is out of range.")); - return; - } else if (workOffset > 6) { - probeWorkOffsetCode = probe100Format.format(workOffset - 6 + 100); - } else { - probeWorkOffsetCode = workOffset + "."; // G54->G59 - } - } - - if (isFirstCyclePoint() || isProbeOperation()) { - if (!isProbeOperation()) { - // return to initial Z which is clearance plane and set absolute mode - repositionToCycleClearance(cycle, x, y, z); - } - - var F = cycle.feedrate; - if (properties.useG95) { - F /= spindleSpeed; - } - var P = !cycle.dwell ? 0 : clamp(1, cycle.dwell * 1000, 99999999); // in milliseconds - - switch (cycleType) { - case "drilling": - writeBlock( - gRetractModal.format(98), gAbsIncModal.format(useIncremental ? 91 : 90), gCycleModal.format(81), - getCommonCycle(x, y, z, cycle.retract), - feedOutput.format(F) - ); - break; - case "counter-boring": - if (P > 0) { - writeBlock( - gRetractModal.format(98), gAbsIncModal.format(useIncremental ? 91 : 90), gCycleModal.format(82), - getCommonCycle(x, y, z, cycle.retract), - "P" + milliFormat.format(P), - feedOutput.format(F) - ); - } else { - writeBlock( - gRetractModal.format(98), gAbsIncModal.format(useIncremental ? 91 : 90), gCycleModal.format(81), - getCommonCycle(x, y, z, cycle.retract), - feedOutput.format(F) - ); - } - break; - case "chip-breaking": - // cycle.accumulatedDepth is ignored - if ((cycle.accumulatedDepth < cycle.depth) || (P > 0)) { - expandCyclePoint(x, y, z); - } else { - writeBlock( - gRetractModal.format(98), gAbsIncModal.format(useIncremental ? 91 : 90), gCycleModal.format(73), - getCommonCycle(x, y, z, cycle.retract), - peckOutput.format(cycle.incrementalDepth), - feedOutput.format(F) - ); - } - break; - case "deep-drilling": - if (P > 0) { - expandCyclePoint(x, y, z); - } else { - writeBlock( - gRetractModal.format(98), gAbsIncModal.format(useIncremental ? 91 : 90), gCycleModal.format(83), - getCommonCycle(x, y, z, cycle.retract), - peckOutput.format(cycle.incrementalDepth), - // conditional(P > 0, "P" + milliFormat.format(P)), - feedOutput.format(F) - ); - } - break; - case "tapping": - if (properties.useRigidTapping != "no") { - writeBlock(mFormat.format(29), sOutput.format(spindleSpeed)); - } - if (properties.usePitchForTapping) { - writeBlock( - gRetractModal.format(98), gFeedModeModal.format(95), gAbsIncModal.format(useIncremental ? 91 : 90), gCycleModal.format((tool.type == TOOL_TAP_LEFT_HAND) ? 74 : 84), - getCommonCycle(x, y, z, cycle.retract), - "P" + milliFormat.format(P), - pitchOutput.format(tool.threadPitch) - ); - forceFeed(); - } else { - var tappingFPM = tool.getThreadPitch() * rpmFormat.getResultingValue(spindleSpeed); - F = (properties.useG95 ? tool.getThreadPitch() : tappingFPM); - writeBlock( - gRetractModal.format(98), gAbsIncModal.format(useIncremental ? 91 : 90), gCycleModal.format((tool.type == TOOL_TAP_LEFT_HAND) ? 74 : 84), - getCommonCycle(x, y, z, cycle.retract), - "P" + milliFormat.format(P), - feedOutput.format(F) - ); - } - break; - case "left-tapping": - if (properties.useRigidTapping != "no") { - writeBlock(mFormat.format(29), sOutput.format(spindleSpeed)); - } - if (properties.usePitchForTapping) { - writeBlock( - gRetractModal.format(98), gFeedModeModal.format(95), gAbsIncModal.format(useIncremental ? 91 : 90), gCycleModal.format(74), - getCommonCycle(x, y, z, cycle.retract), - "P" + milliFormat.format(P), - pitchOutput.format(tool.threadPitch) - ); - forceFeed(); - } else { - var tappingFPM = tool.getThreadPitch() * rpmFormat.getResultingValue(spindleSpeed); - F = (properties.useG95 ? tool.getThreadPitch() : tappingFPM); - writeBlock( - gRetractModal.format(98), gAbsIncModal.format(useIncremental ? 91 : 90), gCycleModal.format(74), - getCommonCycle(x, y, z, cycle.retract), - "P" + milliFormat.format(P), - feedOutput.format(F) - ); - } - break; - case "right-tapping": - if (properties.useRigidTapping != "no") { - writeBlock(mFormat.format(29), sOutput.format(spindleSpeed)); - } - if (properties.usePitchForTapping) { - writeBlock( - gRetractModal.format(98), gFeedModeModal.format(95), gAbsIncModal.format(useIncremental ? 91 : 90), gCycleModal.format(84), - getCommonCycle(x, y, z, cycle.retract), - "P" + milliFormat.format(P), - pitchOutput.format(tool.threadPitch) - ); - forceFeed(); - } else { - var tappingFPM = tool.getThreadPitch() * rpmFormat.getResultingValue(spindleSpeed); - F = (properties.useG95 ? tool.getThreadPitch() : tappingFPM); - writeBlock( - gRetractModal.format(98), gAbsIncModal.format(useIncremental ? 91 : 90), gCycleModal.format(84), - getCommonCycle(x, y, z, cycle.retract), - "P" + milliFormat.format(P), - feedOutput.format(F) - ); - } - break; - case "tapping-with-chip-breaking": - case "left-tapping-with-chip-breaking": - case "right-tapping-with-chip-breaking": - if (cycle.accumulatedDepth < cycle.depth) { - error(localize("Accumulated pecking depth is not supported for tapping cycles with chip breaking.")); - return; - } else { - if (properties.useRigidTapping != "no") { - writeBlock(mFormat.format(29), sOutput.format(spindleSpeed)); - } - if (properties.usePitchForTapping) { - writeBlock( - gRetractModal.format(98), gFeedModeModal.format(95), gAbsIncModal.format(useIncremental ? 91 : 90), gCycleModal.format((tool.type == TOOL_TAP_LEFT_HAND ? 74 : 84)), - getCommonCycle(x, y, z, cycle.retract), - "P" + milliFormat.format(P), - peckOutput.format(cycle.incrementalDepth), - pitchOutput.format(tool.threadPitch) - ); - forceFeed(); - } else { - var tappingFPM = tool.getThreadPitch() * rpmFormat.getResultingValue(spindleSpeed); - F = (properties.useG95 ? tool.getThreadPitch() : tappingFPM); - writeBlock( - gRetractModal.format(98), gAbsIncModal.format(useIncremental ? 91 : 90), gCycleModal.format((tool.type == TOOL_TAP_LEFT_HAND ? 74 : 84)), - getCommonCycle(x, y, z, cycle.retract), - "P" + milliFormat.format(P), - peckOutput.format(cycle.incrementalDepth), - feedOutput.format(F) - ); - } - } - break; - case "fine-boring": - writeBlock( - gRetractModal.format(98), gAbsIncModal.format(useIncremental ? 91 : 90), gCycleModal.format(76), - getCommonCycle(x, y, z, cycle.retract), - "P" + milliFormat.format(P), // not optional - "Q" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.shift), - feedOutput.format(F) - ); - break; - case "back-boring": - var dx = (gPlaneModal.getCurrent() == 19) ? cycle.backBoreDistance : 0; - var dy = (gPlaneModal.getCurrent() == 18) ? cycle.backBoreDistance : 0; - var dz = (gPlaneModal.getCurrent() == 17) ? cycle.backBoreDistance : 0; - writeBlock( - gRetractModal.format(98), gAbsIncModal.format(useIncremental ? 91 : 90), gCycleModal.format(87), - getCommonCycle(x - dx, y - dy, z - dz, cycle.bottom), - "Q" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.shift), - "P" + milliFormat.format(P), // not optional - feedOutput.format(F) - ); - break; - case "reaming": - if (P > 0) { - writeBlock( - gRetractModal.format(98), gAbsIncModal.format(useIncremental ? 91 : 90), gCycleModal.format(89), - getCommonCycle(x, y, z, cycle.retract), - "P" + milliFormat.format(P), - feedOutput.format(F) - ); - } else { - writeBlock( - gRetractModal.format(98), gAbsIncModal.format(useIncremental ? 91 : 90), gCycleModal.format(85), - getCommonCycle(x, y, z, cycle.retract), - feedOutput.format(F) - ); - } - break; - case "stop-boring": - if (P > 0) { - expandCyclePoint(x, y, z); - } else { - writeBlock( - gRetractModal.format(98), gAbsIncModal.format(useIncremental ? 91 : 90), gCycleModal.format(86), - getCommonCycle(x, y, z, cycle.retract), - feedOutput.format(F) - ); - } - break; - case "manual-boring": - writeBlock( - gRetractModal.format(98), gAbsIncModal.format(useIncremental ? 91 : 90), gCycleModal.format(88), - getCommonCycle(x, y, z, cycle.retract), - "P" + milliFormat.format(P), // not optional - feedOutput.format(F) - ); - break; - case "boring": - if (P > 0) { - writeBlock( - gRetractModal.format(98), gAbsIncModal.format(useIncremental ? 91 : 90), gCycleModal.format(89), - getCommonCycle(x, y, z, cycle.retract), - "P" + milliFormat.format(P), // not optional - feedOutput.format(F) - ); - } else { - writeBlock( - gRetractModal.format(98), gAbsIncModal.format(useIncremental ? 91 : 90), gCycleModal.format(85), - getCommonCycle(x, y, z, cycle.retract), - feedOutput.format(F) - ); - } - break; - - case "probing-x": - protectedProbeMove(cycle, x, y, z - cycle.depth); - writeBlock( - gFormat.format(65), "P" + 9811, - xOutput.format(x + approach(cycle.approach1) * (cycle.probeClearance + tool.diameter / 2)), - "Q" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeOvertravel), - getProbingArguments(cycle, probeWorkOffsetCode) - ); - break; - case "probing-y": - protectedProbeMove(cycle, x, y, z - cycle.depth); - writeBlock( - gFormat.format(65), "P" + 9811, - yOutput.format(y + approach(cycle.approach1) * (cycle.probeClearance + tool.diameter / 2)), - "Q" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeOvertravel), - getProbingArguments(cycle, probeWorkOffsetCode) - ); - break; - case "probing-z": - protectedProbeMove(cycle, x, y, Math.min(z - cycle.depth + cycle.probeClearance, cycle.retract)); - writeBlock( - gFormat.format(65), "P" + 9811, - zOutput.format(z - cycle.depth), - "Q" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeOvertravel), - getProbingArguments(cycle, probeWorkOffsetCode) - ); - break; - case "probing-x-wall": - protectedProbeMove(cycle, x, y, z); - writeBlock( - gFormat.format(65), "P" + 9812, - "X" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.width1), - "Z" + xyzFormat.format(z - cycle.depth), - "Q" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeOvertravel), - "R" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeClearance), - getProbingArguments(cycle, probeWorkOffsetCode) - ); - break; - case "probing-y-wall": - protectedProbeMove(cycle, x, y, z); - writeBlock( - gFormat.format(65), "P" + 9812, - "Y" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.width1), - "Z" + xyzFormat.format(z - cycle.depth), - "Q" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeOvertravel), - "R" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeClearance), - getProbingArguments(cycle, probeWorkOffsetCode) - ); - break; - case "probing-x-channel": - protectedProbeMove(cycle, x, y, z - cycle.depth); - writeBlock( - gFormat.format(65), "P" + 9812, - "X" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.width1), - "Q" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeOvertravel), - // not required "R" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeClearance), - getProbingArguments(cycle, probeWorkOffsetCode) - ); - break; - case "probing-x-channel-with-island": - protectedProbeMove(cycle, x, y, z); - writeBlock( - gFormat.format(65), "P" + 9812, - "X" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.width1), - "Z" + xyzFormat.format(z - cycle.depth), - "Q" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeOvertravel), - "R" + xyzFormat.format(-cycle.probeClearance), - getProbingArguments(cycle, probeWorkOffsetCode) - ); - break; - case "probing-y-channel": - protectedProbeMove(cycle, x, y, z - cycle.depth); - writeBlock( - gFormat.format(65), "P" + 9812, - "Y" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.width1), - "Q" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeOvertravel), - // not required "R" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeClearance), - getProbingArguments(cycle, probeWorkOffsetCode) - ); - break; - case "probing-y-channel-with-island": - protectedProbeMove(cycle, x, y, z); - writeBlock( - gFormat.format(65), "P" + 9812, - "Y" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.width1), - "Z" + xyzFormat.format(z - cycle.depth), - "Q" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeOvertravel), - "R" + xyzFormat.format(-cycle.probeClearance), - getProbingArguments(cycle, probeWorkOffsetCode) - ); - break; - case "probing-xy-circular-boss": - protectedProbeMove(cycle, x, y, z); - writeBlock( - gFormat.format(65), "P" + 9814, - "D" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.width1), - "Z" + xyzFormat.format(z - cycle.depth), - "Q" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeOvertravel), - "R" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeClearance), - getProbingArguments(cycle, probeWorkOffsetCode) - ); - break; - case "probing-xy-circular-hole": - protectedProbeMove(cycle, x, y, z - cycle.depth); - writeBlock( - gFormat.format(65), "P" + 9814, - "D" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.width1), - "Q" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeOvertravel), - // not required "R" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeClearance), - getProbingArguments(cycle, probeWorkOffsetCode) - ); - break; - case "probing-xy-circular-hole-with-island": - protectedProbeMove(cycle, x, y, z); - writeBlock( - gFormat.format(65), "P" + 9814, - "Z" + xyzFormat.format(z - cycle.depth), - "D" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.width1), - "Q" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeOvertravel), - "R" + xyzFormat.format(-cycle.probeClearance), - getProbingArguments(cycle, probeWorkOffsetCode) - ); - break; - case "probing-xy-rectangular-hole": - protectedProbeMove(cycle, x, y, z - cycle.depth); - writeBlock( - gFormat.format(65), "P" + 9812, - "X" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.width1), - "Q" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeOvertravel), - // not required "R" + xyzFormat.format(-cycle.probeClearance), - getProbingArguments(cycle, probeWorkOffsetCode) - ); - writeBlock( - gFormat.format(65), "P" + 9812, - "Y" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.width2), - "Q" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeOvertravel), - // not required "R" + xyzFormat.format(-cycle.probeClearance), - getProbingArguments(cycle, probeWorkOffsetCode) - ); - break; - case "probing-xy-rectangular-boss": - protectedProbeMove(cycle, x, y, z); - writeBlock( - gFormat.format(65), "P" + 9812, - "Z" + xyzFormat.format(z - cycle.depth), - "X" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.width1), - "R" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeClearance), - "Q" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeOvertravel), - getProbingArguments(cycle, probeWorkOffsetCode) - ); - writeBlock( - gFormat.format(65), "P" + 9812, - "Z" + xyzFormat.format(z - cycle.depth), - "Y" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.width2), - "R" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeClearance), - "Q" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeOvertravel), - getProbingArguments(cycle, probeWorkOffsetCode) - ); - break; - case "probing-xy-rectangular-hole-with-island": - protectedProbeMove(cycle, x, y, z); - writeBlock( - gFormat.format(65), "P" + 9812, - "Z" + xyzFormat.format(z - cycle.depth), - "X" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.width1), - "Q" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeOvertravel), - "R" + xyzFormat.format(-cycle.probeClearance), - getProbingArguments(cycle, probeWorkOffsetCode) - ); - writeBlock( - gFormat.format(65), "P" + 9812, - "Z" + xyzFormat.format(z - cycle.depth), - "Y" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.width2), - "Q" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeOvertravel), - "R" + xyzFormat.format(-cycle.probeClearance), - getProbingArguments(cycle, probeWorkOffsetCode) - ); - break; - - case "probing-xy-inner-corner": - var cornerX = x + approach(cycle.approach1) * (cycle.probeClearance + tool.diameter / 2); - var cornerY = y + approach(cycle.approach2) * (cycle.probeClearance + tool.diameter / 2); - var cornerI = 0; - var cornerJ = 0; - if (cycle.probeSpacing !== undefined) { - cornerI = cycle.probeSpacing; - cornerJ = cycle.probeSpacing; - } - if ((cornerI != 0) && (cornerJ != 0)) { - g68RotationMode = 2; - } - protectedProbeMove(cycle, x, y, z - cycle.depth); - writeBlock( - gFormat.format(65), "P" + 9815, xOutput.format(cornerX), yOutput.format(cornerY), - conditional(cornerI != 0, "I" + xyzFormat.format(cornerI)), - conditional(cornerJ != 0, "J" + xyzFormat.format(cornerJ)), - "Q" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeOvertravel), - conditional((g68RotationMode == 0) || (angularProbingMode == ANGLE_PROBE_USE_CAXIS), getProbingArguments(cycle, probeWorkOffsetCode)) - ); - break; - case "probing-xy-outer-corner": - var cornerX = x + approach(cycle.approach1) * (cycle.probeClearance + tool.diameter / 2); - var cornerY = y + approach(cycle.approach2) * (cycle.probeClearance + tool.diameter / 2); - var cornerI = 0; - var cornerJ = 0; - if (cycle.probeSpacing !== undefined) { - cornerI = cycle.probeSpacing; - cornerJ = cycle.probeSpacing; - } - if ((cornerI != 0) && (cornerJ != 0)) { - g68RotationMode = 2; - } - protectedProbeMove(cycle, x, y, z - cycle.depth); - writeBlock( - gFormat.format(65), "P" + 9816, xOutput.format(cornerX), yOutput.format(cornerY), - conditional(cornerI != 0, "I" + xyzFormat.format(cornerI)), - conditional(cornerJ != 0, "J" + xyzFormat.format(cornerJ)), - "Q" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeOvertravel), - conditional((g68RotationMode == 0) || (angularProbingMode == ANGLE_PROBE_USE_CAXIS), getProbingArguments(cycle, probeWorkOffsetCode)) - ); - break; - case "probing-x-plane-angle": - protectedProbeMove(cycle, x, y, z - cycle.depth); - writeBlock( - gFormat.format(65), "P" + 9843, - xOutput.format(x + approach(cycle.approach1) * (cycle.probeClearance + tool.diameter / 2)), - "D" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeSpacing), - "Q" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeOvertravel), - getProbingArguments(cycle, false) - ); - g68RotationMode = 1; - break; - case "probing-y-plane-angle": - protectedProbeMove(cycle, x, y, z - cycle.depth); - writeBlock( - gFormat.format(65), "P" + 9843, - yOutput.format(y + approach(cycle.approach1) * (cycle.probeClearance + tool.diameter / 2)), - "D" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeSpacing), - "Q" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeOvertravel), - getProbingArguments(cycle, false) - ); - g68RotationMode = 1; - break; - default: - expandCyclePoint(x, y, z); - } - } else { - if (cycleExpanded) { - expandCyclePoint(x, y, z); - } else { - writeBlock(xOutput.format(x), yOutput.format(y)); - } - } -} - -function getProbingArguments(cycle, probeWorkOffsetCode) { - var probeWCS = hasParameter("operation-strategy") && (getParameter("operation-strategy") == "probe"); - return [ - (cycle.angleAskewAction == "stop-message" ? "B" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.toleranceAngle ? cycle.toleranceAngle : 0) : undefined), - ((cycle.updateToolWear && cycle.toolWearErrorCorrection < 100) ? "F" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.toolWearErrorCorrection ? cycle.toolWearErrorCorrection / 100 : 100) : undefined), - (cycle.wrongSizeAction == "stop-message" ? "H" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.toleranceSize ? cycle.toleranceSize : 0) : undefined), - (cycle.outOfPositionAction == "stop-message" ? "M" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.tolerancePosition ? cycle.tolerancePosition : 0) : undefined), - ((cycle.updateToolWear && cycleType == "probing-z") ? "T" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.toolLengthOffset) : undefined), - ((cycle.updateToolWear && cycleType !== "probing-z") ? "T" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.toolDiameterOffset) : undefined), - (cycle.updateToolWear ? "V" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.toolWearUpdateThreshold ? cycle.toolWearUpdateThreshold : 0) : undefined), - (cycle.printResults ? "W" + xyzFormat.format(1 + cycle.incrementComponent) : undefined), // 1 for advance feature, 2 for reset feature count and advance component number. first reported result in a program should use W2. - conditional(probeWorkOffsetCode && probeWCS, "S" + probeWorkOffsetCode) - ]; -} - -function onCycleEnd() { - if (isProbeOperation()) { - zOutput.reset(); - gMotionModal.reset(); - writeBlock(gFormat.format(65), "P" + 9810, zOutput.format(cycle.retract)); // protected retract move - } else if (!cycleExpanded) { - writeBlock(conditional(!properties.useG95, gFeedModeModal.format(94)), gCycleModal.format(80)); - zOutput.reset(); - } -} - -var pendingRadiusCompensation = -1; - -function onRadiusCompensation() { - pendingRadiusCompensation = radiusCompensation; -} - -function onRapid(_x, _y, _z) { - var x = xOutput.format(_x); - var y = yOutput.format(_y); - var z = zOutput.format(_z); - if (x || y || z) { - if (pendingRadiusCompensation >= 0) { - error(localize("Radius compensation mode cannot be changed at rapid traversal.")); - return; - } - writeBlock(gMotionModal.format(0), x, y, z); - forceFeed(); - } -} - -function onLinear(_x, _y, _z, feed) { - var x = xOutput.format(_x); - var y = yOutput.format(_y); - var z = zOutput.format(_z); - var f = getFeed(feed); - if (x || y || z) { - if (pendingRadiusCompensation >= 0) { - pendingRadiusCompensation = -1; - var d = tool.diameterOffset; - if (d > 99) { - warning(localize("The diameter offset exceeds the maximum value.")); - } - writeBlock(gPlaneModal.format(17)); - switch (radiusCompensation) { - case RADIUS_COMPENSATION_LEFT: - dOutput.reset(); - writeBlock(gMotionModal.format(1), gFormat.format(41), x, y, z, dOutput.format(d), f); - break; - case RADIUS_COMPENSATION_RIGHT: - dOutput.reset(); - writeBlock(gMotionModal.format(1), gFormat.format(42), x, y, z, dOutput.format(d), f); - break; - default: - writeBlock(gMotionModal.format(1), gFormat.format(40), x, y, z, f); - } - } else { - writeBlock(gMotionModal.format(1), x, y, z, f); - } - } else if (f) { - if (getNextRecord().isMotion()) { // try not to output feed without motion - forceFeed(); // force feed on next line - } else { - writeBlock(gMotionModal.format(1), f); - } - } -} - -function onRapid5D(_x, _y, _z, _a, _b, _c) { - if (pendingRadiusCompensation >= 0) { - error(localize("Radius compensation mode cannot be changed at rapid traversal.")); - return; - } - if (currentSection.isOptimizedForMachine()) { - var x = xOutput.format(_x); - var y = yOutput.format(_y); - var z = zOutput.format(_z); - var a = aOutput.format(_a); - var b = bOutput.format(_b); - var c = cOutput.format(_c); - writeBlock(gMotionModal.format(0), x, y, z, a, b, c); - } else { - forceXYZ(); - var x = xOutput.format(_x); - var y = yOutput.format(_y); - var z = zOutput.format(_z); - var i = ijkFormat.format(_a); - var j = ijkFormat.format(_b); - var k = ijkFormat.format(_c); - writeBlock(gMotionModal.format(0), x, y, z, "I" + i, "J" + j, "K" + k); - } - forceFeed(); -} - -function onLinear5D(_x, _y, _z, _a, _b, _c, feed) { - if (pendingRadiusCompensation >= 0) { - error(localize("Radius compensation cannot be activated/deactivated for 5-axis move.")); - return; - } - - if (currentSection.isOptimizedForMachine()) { - var x = xOutput.format(_x); - var y = yOutput.format(_y); - var z = zOutput.format(_z); - var a = aOutput.format(_a); - var b = bOutput.format(_b); - var c = cOutput.format(_c); - var f = getFeed(feed); - if (x || y || z || a || b || c) { - writeBlock(gMotionModal.format(1), x, y, z, a, b, c, f); - } else if (f) { - if (getNextRecord().isMotion()) { // try not to output feed without motion - forceFeed(); // force feed on next line - } else { - writeBlock(gMotionModal.format(1), f); - } - } - } else { - forceXYZ(); - var x = xOutput.format(_x); - var y = yOutput.format(_y); - var z = zOutput.format(_z); - var i = ijkFormat.format(_a); - var j = ijkFormat.format(_b); - var k = ijkFormat.format(_c); - var f = getFeed(feed); - if (x || y || z || i || j || k) { - writeBlock(gMotionModal.format(1), x, y, z, "I" + i, "J" + j, "K" + k, f); - } else if (f) { - if (getNextRecord().isMotion()) { // try not to output feed without motion - forceFeed(); // force feed on next line - } else { - writeBlock(gMotionModal.format(1), f); - } - } - } -} - -function onCircular(clockwise, cx, cy, cz, x, y, z, feed) { - if (pendingRadiusCompensation >= 0) { - error(localize("Radius compensation cannot be activated/deactivated for a circular move.")); - return; - } - - var start = getCurrentPosition(); - - if (isFullCircle()) { - if (properties.useRadius || isHelical()) { // radius mode does not support full arcs - linearize(tolerance); - return; - } - switch (getCircularPlane()) { - case PLANE_XY: - writeBlock(gAbsIncModal.format(useIncremental ? 91 : 90), gPlaneModal.format(17), gMotionModal.format(clockwise ? 2 : 3), iOutput.format(cx - start.x, 0), jOutput.format(cy - start.y, 0), getFeed(feed)); - break; - case PLANE_ZX: - writeBlock(gAbsIncModal.format(useIncremental ? 91 : 90), gPlaneModal.format(18), gMotionModal.format(clockwise ? 2 : 3), iOutput.format(cx - start.x, 0), kOutput.format(cz - start.z, 0), getFeed(feed)); - break; - case PLANE_YZ: - writeBlock(gAbsIncModal.format(useIncremental ? 91 : 90), gPlaneModal.format(19), gMotionModal.format(clockwise ? 2 : 3), jOutput.format(cy - start.y, 0), kOutput.format(cz - start.z, 0), getFeed(feed)); - break; - default: - linearize(tolerance); - } - } else if (!properties.useRadius) { - switch (getCircularPlane()) { - case PLANE_XY: - writeBlock(gAbsIncModal.format(useIncremental ? 91 : 90), gPlaneModal.format(17), gMotionModal.format(clockwise ? 2 : 3), xOutput.format(x), yOutput.format(y), zOutput.format(z), iOutput.format(cx - start.x, 0), jOutput.format(cy - start.y, 0), getFeed(feed)); - break; - case PLANE_ZX: - writeBlock(gAbsIncModal.format(useIncremental ? 91 : 90), gPlaneModal.format(18), gMotionModal.format(clockwise ? 2 : 3), xOutput.format(x), yOutput.format(y), zOutput.format(z), iOutput.format(cx - start.x, 0), kOutput.format(cz - start.z, 0), getFeed(feed)); - break; - case PLANE_YZ: - writeBlock(gAbsIncModal.format(useIncremental ? 91 : 90), gPlaneModal.format(19), gMotionModal.format(clockwise ? 2 : 3), xOutput.format(x), yOutput.format(y), zOutput.format(z), jOutput.format(cy - start.y, 0), kOutput.format(cz - start.z, 0), getFeed(feed)); - break; - default: - if (properties.allow3DArcs) { - // make sure maximumCircularSweep is well below 360deg - // we could use G02.4 or G03.4 - direction is calculated - var ip = getPositionU(0.5); - writeBlock(gAbsIncModal.format(useIncremental ? 91 : 90), gMotionModal.format(clockwise ? 2.4 : 3.4), xOutput.format(ip.x), yOutput.format(ip.y), zOutput.format(ip.z), getFeed(feed)); - writeBlock(xOutput.format(x), yOutput.format(y), zOutput.format(z)); - } else { - linearize(tolerance); - } - } - } else { // use radius mode - var r = getCircularRadius(); - if (toDeg(getCircularSweep()) > (180 + 1e-9)) { - r = -r; // allow up to <360 deg arcs - } - switch (getCircularPlane()) { - case PLANE_XY: - writeBlock(gAbsIncModal.format(useIncremental ? 91 : 90), gPlaneModal.format(17), gMotionModal.format(clockwise ? 2 : 3), xOutput.format(x), yOutput.format(y), zOutput.format(z), "R" + rFormat.format(r), getFeed(feed)); - break; - case PLANE_ZX: - writeBlock(gAbsIncModal.format(useIncremental ? 91 : 90), gPlaneModal.format(18), gMotionModal.format(clockwise ? 2 : 3), xOutput.format(x), yOutput.format(y), zOutput.format(z), "R" + rFormat.format(r), getFeed(feed)); - break; - case PLANE_YZ: - writeBlock(gAbsIncModal.format(useIncremental ? 91 : 90), gPlaneModal.format(19), gMotionModal.format(clockwise ? 2 : 3), xOutput.format(x), yOutput.format(y), zOutput.format(z), "R" + rFormat.format(r), getFeed(feed)); - break; - default: - if (properties.allow3DArcs) { - // make sure maximumCircularSweep is well below 360deg - // we could use G02.4 or G03.4 - direction is calculated - var ip = getPositionU(0.5); - writeBlock(gAbsIncModal.format(useIncremental ? 91 : 90), gMotionModal.format(clockwise ? 2.4 : 3.4), xOutput.format(ip.x), yOutput.format(ip.y), zOutput.format(ip.z), getFeed(feed)); - writeBlock(xOutput.format(x), yOutput.format(y), zOutput.format(z)); - } else { - linearize(tolerance); - } - } - } -} - -var currentCoolantMode = COOLANT_OFF; -var coolantOff = undefined; - -function setCoolant(coolant) { - var coolantCodes = getCoolantCodes(coolant); - if (Array.isArray(coolantCodes)) { - if (singleLineCoolant) { - writeBlock(coolantCodes.join(getWordSeparator())); - } else { - for (var c in coolantCodes) { - writeBlock(coolantCodes[c]); - } - } - return undefined; - } - return coolantCodes; -} - -function getCoolantCodes(coolant) { - var multipleCoolantBlocks = new Array(); // create a formatted array to be passed into the outputted line - if (!coolants) { - error(localize("Coolants have not been defined.")); - } - if (isProbeOperation()) { // avoid coolant output for probing - coolant = COOLANT_OFF; - } - if (coolant == currentCoolantMode) { - return undefined; // coolant is already active - } - if ((coolant != COOLANT_OFF) && (currentCoolantMode != COOLANT_OFF) && (coolantOff != undefined)) { - if (Array.isArray(coolantOff)) { - for (var i in coolantOff) { - multipleCoolantBlocks.push(mFormat.format(coolantOff[i])); - } - } else { - multipleCoolantBlocks.push(mFormat.format(coolantOff)); - } - } - - var m; - var coolantCodes = {}; - for (var c in coolants) { // find required coolant codes into the coolants array - if (coolants[c].id == coolant) { - coolantCodes.on = coolants[c].on; - if (coolants[c].off != undefined) { - coolantCodes.off = coolants[c].off; - break; - } else { - for (var i in coolants) { - if (coolants[i].id == COOLANT_OFF) { - coolantCodes.off = coolants[i].off; - break; - } - } - } - } - } - if (coolant == COOLANT_OFF) { - m = !coolantOff ? coolantCodes.off : coolantOff; // use the default coolant off command when an 'off' value is not specified - } else { - coolantOff = coolantCodes.off; - m = coolantCodes.on; - } - - if (!m) { - onUnsupportedCoolant(coolant); - m = 9; - } else { - if (Array.isArray(m)) { - for (var i in m) { - multipleCoolantBlocks.push(mFormat.format(m[i])); - } - } else { - multipleCoolantBlocks.push(mFormat.format(m)); - } - currentCoolantMode = coolant; - return multipleCoolantBlocks; // return the single formatted coolant value - } - return undefined; -} - -var mapCommand = { - COMMAND_STOP:0, - COMMAND_OPTIONAL_STOP:1, - COMMAND_END:2, - COMMAND_SPINDLE_CLOCKWISE:3, - COMMAND_SPINDLE_COUNTERCLOCKWISE:4, - COMMAND_STOP_SPINDLE:5, - COMMAND_ORIENTATE_SPINDLE:19 -}; - -function onCommand(command) { - switch (command) { - case COMMAND_COOLANT_OFF: - setCoolant(COOLANT_OFF); - return; - case COMMAND_COOLANT_ON: - setCoolant(COOLANT_FLOOD); - return; - case COMMAND_STOP: - writeBlock(mFormat.format(0)); - forceSpindleSpeed = true; - return; - case COMMAND_START_SPINDLE: - onCommand(tool.clockwise ? COMMAND_SPINDLE_CLOCKWISE : COMMAND_SPINDLE_COUNTERCLOCKWISE); - return; - case COMMAND_LOCK_MULTI_AXIS: - return; - case COMMAND_UNLOCK_MULTI_AXIS: - return; - case COMMAND_START_CHIP_TRANSPORT: - return; - case COMMAND_STOP_CHIP_TRANSPORT: - return; - case COMMAND_BREAK_CONTROL: - return; - case COMMAND_TOOL_MEASURE: - return; - } - - var stringId = getCommandStringId(command); - var mcode = mapCommand[stringId]; - if (mcode != undefined) { - writeBlock(mFormat.format(mcode)); - } else { - onUnsupportedCommand(command); - } -} - -function onSectionEnd() { - writeBlock(gPlaneModal.format(17)); - - xOutput = createVariable({prefix:"X"}, xyzFormat); - yOutput = createVariable({prefix:"Y"}, xyzFormat); - zOutput = createVariable({prefix:"Z"}, xyzFormat); - aOutput = createVariable({prefix:"A"}, abcFormat); - bOutput = createVariable({prefix:"B"}, abcFormat); - cOutput = createVariable({prefix:"C"}, abcFormat); - useIncremental = false; - - if (!isLastSection() && (getNextSection().getTool().coolant != tool.coolant)) { - setCoolant(COOLANT_OFF); - } - if (((getCurrentSectionId() + 1) >= getNumberOfSections()) || - (tool.number != getNextSection().getTool().number)) { - onCommand(COMMAND_BREAK_CONTROL); - } - - if (isProbeOperation()) { - writeBlock(gFormat.format(65), "P" + 9833); // spin the probe off - setProbingAngle(); // define rotation of part - } - forceAny(); -} - -/** Output block to do safe retract and/or move to home position. */ -function writeRetract() { - if (arguments.length == 0) { - error(localize("No axis specified for writeRetract().")); - return; - } - var words = []; // store all retracted axes in an array - for (var i = 0; i < arguments.length; ++i) { - let instances = 0; // checks for duplicate retract calls - for (var j = 0; j < arguments.length; ++j) { - if (arguments[i] == arguments[j]) { - ++instances; - } - } - if (instances > 1) { // error if there are multiple retract calls for the same axis - error(localize("Cannot retract the same axis twice in one line")); - return; - } - switch (arguments[i]) { - case X: - words.push("X" + xyzFormat.format(machineConfiguration.hasHomePositionX() ? machineConfiguration.getHomePositionX() : 0)); - break; - case Y: - words.push("Y" + xyzFormat.format(machineConfiguration.hasHomePositionY() ? machineConfiguration.getHomePositionY() : 0)); - break; - case Z: - writeBlock(gFormat.format(28), gAbsIncModal.format(91), "Z" + xyzFormat.format(machineConfiguration.getRetractPlane())); // retract - zOutput.reset(); - retracted = true; // specifies that the tool has been retracted to the safe plane - break; - default: - error(localize("Bad axis specified for writeRetract().")); - return; - } - } - if (words.length > 0) { - gMotionModal.reset(); - if (!machineConfiguration.hasHomePositionX() && !machineConfiguration.hasHomePositionY()) { - writeBlock(gFormat.format(28), gAbsIncModal.format(91), words); // retract - if (!properties.useIncremental) { - writeBlock(gAbsIncModal.format(90)); - } - } else { - writeBlock(gAbsIncModal.format(90), gFormat.format(53), gMotionModal.format(0), words); // retract - writeBlock(gAbsIncModal.format(91)); - } - } -} - -function onClose() { - writeln(""); - optionalSection = false; - - onCommand(COMMAND_COOLANT_OFF); - - writeRetract(Z); - - disableLengthCompensation(true); - setSmoothing(false); - zOutput.reset(); - - setWorkPlane(new Vector(0, 0, 0)); // reset working plane - - if (properties.useG54x4) { - writeBlock(gFormat.format(54.4), "P0"); - } - - writeRetract(X, Y); - - onImpliedCommand(COMMAND_END); - onImpliedCommand(COMMAND_STOP_SPINDLE); - writeBlock(mFormat.format(30)); // stop program, spindle stop, coolant off - writeln("%"); -} diff --git a/resources/workshop/.inc/saturn/mc/fanuc2/fanuc turning.cps b/resources/workshop/.inc/saturn/mc/fanuc2/fanuc turning.cps deleted file mode 100644 index 9a423490c..000000000 --- a/resources/workshop/.inc/saturn/mc/fanuc2/fanuc turning.cps +++ /dev/null @@ -1,1676 +0,0 @@ -/** - Copyright (C) 2012-2019 by Autodesk, Inc. - All rights reserved. - - FANUC Lathe post processor configuration. - - $Revision: 42631 621a6aaa12feb9f27eb24e2b06cf85758a41d354 $ - $Date: 2020-01-21 06:14:08 $ - - FORKID {88B77760-269E-4d46-8588-30814E7FE9A1} -*/ - -description = "FANUC Turning"; -vendor = "Fanuc"; -vendorUrl = "http://www.fanuc.com"; -legal = "Copyright (C) 2012-2019 by Autodesk, Inc."; -certificationLevel = 2; -minimumRevision = 40783; - -longDescription = "Generic turning post for FANUC. Use the property 'type' to switch the FANUC mode A, B, and C. The default mode is A. Use Turret 0 for Positional Turret, Turret 101 for QCTP on X- Post, Turret 102 for QCTP on X+ Post, Turret 103 for Gang Tooling on X- Post, Turret 104 for Gang Tooling on X+ Tool Post."; - -extension = "nc"; -programNameIsInteger = true; -setCodePage("ascii"); - -capabilities = CAPABILITY_TURNING; -tolerance = spatial(0.002, MM); - -minimumChordLength = spatial(0.25, MM); -minimumCircularRadius = spatial(0.01, MM); -maximumCircularRadius = spatial(1000, MM); -minimumCircularSweep = toRad(0.01); -maximumCircularSweep = toRad(180); -allowHelicalMoves = true; -allowedCircularPlanes = undefined; // allow any circular motion - -// user-defined properties -properties = { - writeMachine: false, // write machine - writeTools: false, // writes the tools - preloadTool: false, // preloads next tool on tool change if any - showSequenceNumbers: true, // show sequence numbers - sequenceNumberStart: 10, // first sequence number - sequenceNumberIncrement: 1, // increment for sequence numbers - optionalStop: true, // optional stop - o8: false, // specifies 8-digit program number - separateWordsWithSpace: true, // specifies that the words should be separated with a white space - useRadius: false, // specifies that arcs should be output using the radius (R word) instead of the I, J, and K words. - maximumSpindleSpeed: 100 * 60, // specifies the maximum spindle speed - type: "A", // specifies the type A, B, C - useParametricFeed: false, // specifies that feed should be output using Q values - showNotes: false, // specifies that operation notes should be output. - g53HomePositionX: 0, // home position for X-axis - g53HomePositionZ: 0, // home position for Z-axis - useRigidTapping: "yes" // output rigid tapping block -}; - -// user-defined property definitions -propertyDefinitions = { - writeMachine: {title:"Write machine", description:"Output the machine settings in the header of the code.", group:0, type:"boolean"}, - writeTools: {title:"Write tool list", description:"Output a tool list in the header of the code.", group:0, type:"boolean"}, - preloadTool: {title:"Preload tool", description:"Preloads the next tool at a tool change (if any).", group:1, type:"boolean"}, - showSequenceNumbers: {title:"Use sequence numbers", description:"Use sequence numbers for each block of outputted code.", group:1, type:"boolean"}, - sequenceNumberStart: {title:"Start sequence number", description:"The number at which to start the sequence numbers.", group:1, type:"integer"}, - sequenceNumberIncrement: {title:"Sequence number increment", description:"The amount by which the sequence number is incremented by in each block.", group:1, type:"integer"}, - optionalStop: {title:"Optional stop", description:"Outputs optional stop code during when necessary in the code.", type:"boolean"}, - o8: {title:"8 Digit program number", description:"Specifies that an 8 digit program number is needed.", type:"boolean"}, - separateWordsWithSpace: {title:"Separate words with space", description:"Adds spaces between words if 'yes' is selected.", type:"boolean"}, - useRadius: {title:"Radius arcs", description:"If yes is selected, arcs are outputted using radius values rather than IJK.", type:"boolean"}, - maximumSpindleSpeed: {title:"Max spindle speed", description:"Defines the maximum spindle speed allowed by your machines.", type:"integer", range:[0, 999999999]}, - type: {title:"Type", description:"Specifies the type A, B or C.", type:"enum", values:["A", "B", "C"]}, - useParametricFeed: {title:"Parametric feed", description:"Specifies the feed value that should be output using a Q value.", type:"boolean"}, - showNotes: {title:"Show notes", description:"Writes operation notes as comments in the outputted code.", type:"boolean"}, - g53HomePositionX: {title:"G53 home position X", description:"G53 X-axis home position.", type:"number"}, - g53HomePositionZ: {title:"G53 home position Z", description:"G53 Z-axis home position.", type:"number"}, - useRigidTapping: { - title: "Use rigid tapping", - description: "Select 'Yes' to enable, 'No' to disable, or 'Without spindle direction' to enable rigid tapping without outputting the spindle direction block.", - type: "enum", - values:[ - {title:"Yes", id:"yes"}, - {title:"No", id:"no"}, - {title:"Without spindle direction", id:"without"} - ] - } -}; - -var permittedCommentChars = " ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZ0123456789.,=_-"; - -var gFormat = createFormat({prefix:"G", decimals:1}); -var mFormat = createFormat({prefix:"M", decimals:1}); - -var spatialFormat = createFormat({decimals:(unit == MM ? 3 : 4), forceDecimal:true}); -var xFormat = createFormat({decimals:(unit == MM ? 3 : 4), forceDecimal:true, scale:2}); // diameter mode -var yFormat = createFormat({decimals:(unit == MM ? 3 : 4), forceDecimal:true}); -var zFormat = createFormat({decimals:(unit == MM ? 3 : 4), forceDecimal:true}); -var rFormat = createFormat({decimals:(unit == MM ? 3 : 4), forceDecimal:true}); // radius -var feedFormat = createFormat({decimals:(unit == MM ? 4 : 5), forceDecimal:true}); -var pitchFormat = createFormat({decimals:6, forceDecimal:true}); -var toolFormat = createFormat({decimals:0, width:4, zeropad:true}); -var rpmFormat = createFormat({decimals:0}); -var secFormat = createFormat({decimals:3, forceDecimal:true}); // seconds - range 0.001-99999.999 -var milliFormat = createFormat({decimals:0}); // milliseconds // range 1-9999 -var taperFormat = createFormat({decimals:1, scale:DEG}); -var peckFormat = createFormat({decimals:(unit == MM ? 3 : 4), forceDecimal:true}); -// var peckFormat = createFormat({decimals:0, forceDecimal:false, trim:false, width:4, zeropad:true, scale:(unit == MM ? 1000 : 10000)}); - -var xOutput = createVariable({prefix:"X"}, xFormat); -var yOutput = createVariable({prefix:"Y"}, yFormat); -var zOutput = createVariable({prefix:"Z"}, zFormat); -var feedOutput = createVariable({prefix:"F"}, feedFormat); -var pitchOutput = createVariable({prefix:"F", force:true}, pitchFormat); -var sOutput = createVariable({prefix:"S", force:true}, rpmFormat); - -// circular output -var kOutput = createReferenceVariable({prefix:"K"}, spatialFormat); -var iOutput = createReferenceVariable({prefix:"I"}, spatialFormat); // no scaling - -var g92ROutput = createVariable({prefix:"R"}, zFormat); // no scaling -var peckOutput = createVariable({prefix:"Q", force:true}, peckFormat); - -var gMotionModal = createModal({}, gFormat); // modal group 1 // G0-G3, ... -var gPlaneModal = createModal({onchange:function () {gMotionModal.reset();}}, gFormat); // modal group 2 // G17-19 -var gAbsIncModal = createModal({}, gFormat); // modal group 3 // G90-91 // only for B and C mode -var gFeedModeModal = createModal({}, gFormat); // modal group 5 // G98-99 / G94-95 -var gSpindleModeModal = createModal({}, gFormat); // modal group 5 // G96-97 -var gUnitModal = createModal({}, gFormat); // modal group 6 // G20-21 -var gCycleModal = createModal({}, gFormat); // modal group 9 // G81, ... -var gRetractModal = createModal({}, gFormat); // modal group 10 // G98-99 - -// fixed settings -var firstFeedParameter = 500; -var gotSecondarySpindle = true; -var gotTailStock = false; - -var WARNING_WORK_OFFSET = 0; - -var QCTP = 0; -var TURRET = 1; -var GANG = 2; - -var FRONT = -1; -var REAR = 1; - -// collected state -var sequenceNumber; -var currentWorkOffset; -var optionalSection = false; -var forceSpindleSpeed = false; -var activeMovements; // do not use by default -var currentFeedId; -var toolingData; -var previousToolingData; - -function getCode(code) { - switch (code) { - // case "PART_CATCHER_ON": - // return mFormat.format(SPECIFY YOUR CODE HERE); - // case "PART_CATCHER_OFF": - // return mFormat.format(SPECIFY YOUR CODE HERE); - // case "TAILSTOCK_ON": - // return mFormat.format(SPECIFY YOUR CODE HERE); - // case "TAILSTOCK_OFF": - // return mFormat.format(SPECIFY YOUR CODE HERE); - // case "ENGAGE_C_AXIS": - // machineState.cAxisIsEngaged = true; - // return cAxisEngageModal.format(UNSUPPORTED); - // case "DISENGAGE_C_AXIS": - // machineState.cAxisIsEngaged = false; - // return cAxisEngageModal.format(UNSUPPORTED); - // case "POLAR_INTERPOLATION_ON": - // return gPolarModal.format(UNSUPPORTED); - // case "POLAR_INTERPOLATION_OFF": - // return gPolarModal.format(UNSUPPORTED); - // case "STOP_LIVE_TOOL": - // machineState.liveToolIsActive = false; - // return mFormat.format(UNSUPPORTED); - // case "STOP_MAIN_SPINDLE": - // machineState.mainSpindleIsActive = false; - // return mFormat.format(UNSUPPORTED); - // case "STOP_SUB_SPINDLE": - // machineState.subSpindleIsActive = false; - // return mFormat.format(UNSUPPORTED); - // case "START_LIVE_TOOL_CW": - // machineState.liveToolIsActive = true; - // return mFormat.format(UNSUPPORTED); - // case "START_LIVE_TOOL_CCW": - // machineState.liveToolIsActive = true; - // return mFormat.format(UNSUPPORTED); - case "START_MAIN_SPINDLE_CW": - // machineState.mainSpindleIsActive = true; - return mFormat.format(3); - case "START_MAIN_SPINDLE_CCW": - // machineState.mainSpindleIsActive = true; - return mFormat.format(4); - // case "START_SUB_SPINDLE_CW": - // machineState.subSpindleIsActive = true; - // return mFormat.format(UNSUPPORTED); - // case "START_SUB_SPINDLE_CCW": - // machineState.subSpindleIsActive = true; - // return mFormat.format(UNSUPPORTED); - // case "MAIN_SPINDLE_BRAKE_ON": - // machineState.mainSpindleBrakeIsActive = true; - // return cAxisBrakeModal.format(UNSUPPORTED); - // case "MAIN_SPINDLE_BRAKE_OFF": - // machineState.mainSpindleBrakeIsActive = false; - // return cAxisBrakeModal.format(UNSUPPORTED); - // case "SUB_SPINDLE_BRAKE_ON": - // machineState.subSpindleBrakeIsActive = true; - // return cAxisBrakeModal.format(UNSUPPORTED); - // case "SUB_SPINDLE_BRAKE_OFF": - // machineState.subSpindleBrakeIsActive = false; - // return cAxisBrakeModal.format(UNSUPPORTED); - case "FEED_MODE_UNIT_REV": - return gFeedModeModal.format((properties.type == "A") ? 99 : 95); - case "FEED_MODE_UNIT_MIN": - return gFeedModeModal.format((properties.type == "A") ? 98 : 94); - case "CONSTANT_SURFACE_SPEED_ON": - return gSpindleModeModal.format(96); - case "CONSTANT_SURFACE_SPEED_OFF": - return gSpindleModeModal.format(97); - // case "MAINSPINDLE_AIR_BLAST_ON": - // return mFormat.format(UNSUPPORTED); - // case "MAINSPINDLE_AIR_BLAST_OFF": - // return mFormat.format(UNSUPPORTED); - // case "SUBSPINDLE_AIR_BLAST_ON": - // return mFormat.format(UNSUPPORTED); - // case "SUBSPINDLE_AIR_BLAST_OFF": - // return mFormat.format(UNSUPPORTED); - // case "CLAMP_PRIMARY_CHUCK": - // return mFormat.format(UNSUPPORTED); - // case "UNCLAMP_PRIMARY_CHUCK": - // return mFormat.format(UNSUPPORTED); - // case "CLAMP_SECONDARY_CHUCK": - // return mFormat.format(UNSUPPORTED); - // case "UNCLAMP_SECONDARY_CHUCK": - // return mFormat.format(UNSUPPORTED); - // case "SPINDLE_SYNCHRONIZATION_ON": - // machineState.spindleSynchronizationIsActive = true; - // return gSynchronizedSpindleModal.format(UNSUPPORTED); - // case "SPINDLE_SYNCHRONIZATION_OFF": - // machineState.spindleSynchronizationIsActive = false; - // return gSynchronizedSpindleModal.format(UNSUPPORTED); - // case "START_CHIP_TRANSPORT": - // return mFormat.format(UNSUPPORTED); - // case "STOP_CHIP_TRANSPORT": - // return mFormat.format(UNSUPPORTED); - // case "OPEN_DOOR": - // return mFormat.format(UNSUPPORTED); - // case "CLOSE_DOOR": - // return mFormat.format(UNSUPPORTED); - case "COOLANT_FLOOD_ON": - return mFormat.format(8); - case "COOLANT_FLOOD_OFF": - return mFormat.format(9); - // case "COOLANT_AIR_ON": - // return mFormat.format(UNSUPPORTED); - // case "COOLANT_AIR_OFF": - // return mFormat.format(UNSUPPORTED); - case "COOLANT_THROUGH_TOOL_ON": - return mFormat.format(88); - case "COOLANT_THROUGH_TOOL_OFF": - return mFormat.format(89); - case "COOLANT_OFF": - return mFormat.format(9); - default: - error(localize("Command " + code + " is not defined.")); - return 0; - } -} - -/** - Writes the specified block. -*/ -function writeBlock() { - var text = formatWords(arguments); - if (!text) { - return; - } - if (properties.showSequenceNumbers) { - if (optionalSection) { - if (text) { - writeWords("/", "N" + sequenceNumber, text); - } - } else { - writeWords2("N" + sequenceNumber, arguments); - } - sequenceNumber += properties.sequenceNumberIncrement; - } else { - if (optionalSection) { - writeWords2("/", arguments); - } else { - writeWords(arguments); - } - } -} - -/** - Writes the specified optional block. -*/ -function writeOptionalBlock() { - if (properties.showSequenceNumbers) { - var words = formatWords(arguments); - if (words) { - writeWords("/", "N" + sequenceNumber, words); - sequenceNumber += properties.sequenceNumberIncrement; - } - } else { - writeWords2("/", arguments); - } -} - -function formatComment(text) { - return "(" + filterText(String(text).toUpperCase(), permittedCommentChars).replace(/[()]/g, "") + ")"; -} - -/** - Output a comment. -*/ -function writeComment(text) { - writeln(formatComment(text)); -} - -function onOpen() { - if (properties.useRadius) { - maximumCircularSweep = toRad(90); // avoid potential center calculation errors for CNC - } - - yOutput.disable(); - - if (!(properties.type in {"A":0, "B":0, "C":0})) { - error(localize("Unsupported type. Only A, B, and C are allowed.")); - return; - } - - if (!properties.separateWordsWithSpace) { - setWordSeparator(""); - } - - sequenceNumber = properties.sequenceNumberStart; - writeln("%"); - - if (programName) { - var programId; - try { - programId = getAsInt(programName); - } catch (e) { - error(localize("Program name must be a number.")); - return; - } - if (properties.o8) { - if (!((programId >= 1) && (programId <= 99999999))) { - error(localize("Program number is out of range.")); - return; - } - } else { - if (!((programId >= 1) && (programId <= 9999))) { - error(localize("Program number is out of range.")); - return; - } - } - if ((programId >= 8000) && (programId <= 9999)) { - warning(localize("Program number is reserved by tool builder.")); - } - var oFormat = createFormat({width:(properties.o8 ? 8 : 4), zeropad:true, decimals:0}); - if (programComment) { - writeln("O" + oFormat.format(programId) + " (" + filterText(String(programComment).toUpperCase(), permittedCommentChars) + ")"); - } else { - writeln("O" + oFormat.format(programId)); - } - } else { - error(localize("Program name has not been specified.")); - return; - } - - // dump machine configuration - var vendor = machineConfiguration.getVendor(); - var model = machineConfiguration.getModel(); - var description = machineConfiguration.getDescription(); - - if (properties.writeMachine && (vendor || model || description)) { - writeComment(localize("Machine")); - if (vendor) { - writeComment(" " + localize("vendor") + ": " + vendor); - } - if (model) { - writeComment(" " + localize("model") + ": " + model); - } - if (description) { - writeComment(" " + localize("description") + ": " + description); - } - } - - if ((getNumberOfSections() > 0) && (getSection(0).workOffset == 0)) { - for (var i = 0; i < getNumberOfSections(); ++i) { - if (getSection(i).workOffset > 0) { - error(localize("Using multiple work offsets is not possible if the initial work offset is 0.")); - return; - } - } - } - - if (properties.writeTools) { - var zRanges = {}; - if (is3D()) { - var numberOfSections = getNumberOfSections(); - for (var i = 0; i < numberOfSections; ++i) { - var section = getSection(i); - var zRange = section.getGlobalZRange(); - var tool = section.getTool(); - if (zRanges[tool.number]) { - zRanges[tool.number].expandToRange(zRange); - } else { - zRanges[tool.number] = zRange; - } - } - } - - var tools = getToolTable(); - if (tools.getNumberOfTools() > 0) { - for (var i = 0; i < tools.getNumberOfTools(); ++i) { - var tool = tools.getTool(i); - var compensationOffset = tool.isTurningTool() ? tool.compensationOffset : tool.lengthOffset; - var comment = "T" + toolFormat.format(tool.number * 100 + compensationOffset % 100) + " " + - (tool.diameter != 0 ? "D=" + spatialFormat.format(tool.diameter) + " " : "") + - (tool.isTurningTool() ? localize("NR") + "=" + spatialFormat.format(tool.noseRadius) : localize("CR") + "=" + spatialFormat.format(tool.cornerRadius)) + - (tool.taperAngle > 0 && (tool.taperAngle < Math.PI) ? " " + localize("TAPER") + "=" + taperFormat.format(tool.taperAngle) + localize("deg") : "") + - (zRanges[tool.number] ? " - " + localize("ZMIN") + "=" + spatialFormat.format(zRanges[tool.number].getMinimum()) : "") + - " - " + localize(getToolTypeName(tool.type)); - writeComment(comment); - } - } - } - - // absolute coordinates and feed per min - if (properties.type == "A") { - writeBlock(gFeedModeModal.format(98), gPlaneModal.format(18)); - } else { - writeBlock(gAbsIncModal.format(90), gFeedModeModal.format(95), gPlaneModal.format(18)); - } - - switch (unit) { - case IN: - writeBlock(gUnitModal.format(20)); - break; - case MM: - writeBlock(gUnitModal.format(21)); - break; - } - - if (properties.type == "A") { - writeBlock(gFormat.format(50), sOutput.format(properties.maximumSpindleSpeed)); - } else { - writeBlock(gFormat.format(92), sOutput.format(properties.maximumSpindleSpeed)); - } - - onCommand(COMMAND_START_CHIP_TRANSPORT); -} - -function onComment(message) { - writeComment(message); -} - -/** Force output of X, Y, and Z. */ -function forceXYZ() { - xOutput.reset(); - yOutput.reset(); - zOutput.reset(); -} - -function forceFeed() { - currentFeedId = undefined; - feedOutput.reset(); -} - -/** Force output of X, Y, Z, and F on next output. */ -function forceAny() { - forceXYZ(); - forceFeed(); -} - -function FeedContext(id, description, feed) { - this.id = id; - this.description = description; - this.feed = feed; -} - -function getFeed(f) { - if (activeMovements) { - var feedContext = activeMovements[movement]; - if (feedContext != undefined) { - if (!feedFormat.areDifferent(feedContext.feed, f)) { - if (feedContext.id == currentFeedId) { - return ""; // nothing has changed - } - forceFeed(); - currentFeedId = feedContext.id; - return "F#" + (firstFeedParameter + feedContext.id); - } - } - currentFeedId = undefined; // force Q feed next time - } - return feedOutput.format(f); // use feed value -} - -function initializeActiveFeeds() { - activeMovements = new Array(); - var movements = currentSection.getMovements(); - var feedPerRev = currentSection.feedMode == FEED_PER_REVOLUTION; - - var id = 0; - var activeFeeds = new Array(); - if (hasParameter("operation:tool_feedCutting")) { - if (movements & ((1 << MOVEMENT_CUTTING) | (1 << MOVEMENT_LINK_TRANSITION) | (1 << MOVEMENT_EXTENDED))) { - var feedContext = new FeedContext(id, localize("Cutting"), feedPerRev ? getParameter("operation:tool_feedCuttingRel") : getParameter("operation:tool_feedCutting")); - activeFeeds.push(feedContext); - activeMovements[MOVEMENT_CUTTING] = feedContext; - activeMovements[MOVEMENT_LINK_TRANSITION] = feedContext; - activeMovements[MOVEMENT_EXTENDED] = feedContext; - } - ++id; - if (movements & (1 << MOVEMENT_PREDRILL)) { - feedContext = new FeedContext(id, localize("Predrilling"), feedPerRev ? getParameter("operation:tool_feedCuttingRel") : getParameter("operation:tool_feedCutting")); - activeMovements[MOVEMENT_PREDRILL] = feedContext; - activeFeeds.push(feedContext); - } - ++id; - } - - if (hasParameter("operation:finishFeedrate")) { - if (movements & (1 << MOVEMENT_FINISH_CUTTING)) { - var finishFeedrateRel; - if (hasParameter("operation:finishFeedrateRel")) { - finishFeedrateRel = getParameter("operation:finishFeedrateRel"); - } else if (hasParameter("operation:finishFeedratePerRevolution")) { - finishFeedrateRel = getParameter("operation:finishFeedratePerRevolution"); - } - var feedContext = new FeedContext(id, localize("Finish"), feedPerRev ? finishFeedrateRel : getParameter("operation:finishFeedrate")); - activeFeeds.push(feedContext); - activeMovements[MOVEMENT_FINISH_CUTTING] = feedContext; - } - ++id; - } else if (hasParameter("operation:tool_feedCutting")) { - if (movements & (1 << MOVEMENT_FINISH_CUTTING)) { - var feedContext = new FeedContext(id, localize("Finish"), feedPerRev ? getParameter("operation:tool_feedCuttingRel") : getParameter("operation:tool_feedCutting")); - activeFeeds.push(feedContext); - activeMovements[MOVEMENT_FINISH_CUTTING] = feedContext; - } - ++id; - } - - if (hasParameter("operation:tool_feedEntry")) { - if (movements & (1 << MOVEMENT_LEAD_IN)) { - var feedContext = new FeedContext(id, localize("Entry"), feedPerRev ? getParameter("operation:tool_feedEntryRel") : getParameter("operation:tool_feedEntry")); - activeFeeds.push(feedContext); - activeMovements[MOVEMENT_LEAD_IN] = feedContext; - } - ++id; - } - - if (hasParameter("operation:tool_feedExit")) { - if (movements & (1 << MOVEMENT_LEAD_OUT)) { - var feedContext = new FeedContext(id, localize("Exit"), feedPerRev ? getParameter("operation:tool_feedExitRel") : getParameter("operation:tool_feedExit")); - activeFeeds.push(feedContext); - activeMovements[MOVEMENT_LEAD_OUT] = feedContext; - } - ++id; - } - - if (hasParameter("operation:noEngagementFeedrate")) { - if (movements & (1 << MOVEMENT_LINK_DIRECT)) { - var feedContext = new FeedContext(id, localize("Direct"), feedPerRev ? getParameter("operation:noEngagementFeedrateRel") : getParameter("operation:noEngagementFeedrate")); - activeFeeds.push(feedContext); - activeMovements[MOVEMENT_LINK_DIRECT] = feedContext; - } - ++id; - } else if (hasParameter("operation:tool_feedCutting") && - hasParameter("operation:tool_feedEntry") && - hasParameter("operation:tool_feedExit")) { - if (movements & (1 << MOVEMENT_LINK_DIRECT)) { - var feedContext = new FeedContext( - id, - localize("Direct"), - Math.max( - feedPerRev ? getParameter("operation:tool_feedCuttingRel") : getParameter("operation:tool_feedCutting"), - feedPerRev ? getParameter("operation:tool_feedEntryRel") : getParameter("operation:tool_feedEntry"), - feedPerRev ? getParameter("operation:tool_feedExitRel") : getParameter("operation:tool_feedExit") - ) - ); - activeFeeds.push(feedContext); - activeMovements[MOVEMENT_LINK_DIRECT] = feedContext; - } - ++id; - } - - if (hasParameter("operation:reducedFeedrate")) { - if (movements & (1 << MOVEMENT_REDUCED)) { - var feedContext = new FeedContext(id, localize("Reduced"), feedPerRev ? getParameter("operation:reducedFeedrateRel") : getParameter("operation:reducedFeedrate")); - activeFeeds.push(feedContext); - activeMovements[MOVEMENT_REDUCED] = feedContext; - } - ++id; - } - - if (hasParameter("operation:tool_feedRamp")) { - if (movements & ((1 << MOVEMENT_RAMP) | (1 << MOVEMENT_RAMP_HELIX) | (1 << MOVEMENT_RAMP_PROFILE) | (1 << MOVEMENT_RAMP_ZIG_ZAG))) { - var feedContext = new FeedContext(id, localize("Ramping"), feedPerRev ? getParameter("operation:tool_feedRampRel") : getParameter("operation:tool_feedRamp")); - activeFeeds.push(feedContext); - activeMovements[MOVEMENT_RAMP] = feedContext; - activeMovements[MOVEMENT_RAMP_HELIX] = feedContext; - activeMovements[MOVEMENT_RAMP_PROFILE] = feedContext; - activeMovements[MOVEMENT_RAMP_ZIG_ZAG] = feedContext; - } - ++id; - } - if (hasParameter("operation:tool_feedPlunge")) { - if (movements & (1 << MOVEMENT_PLUNGE)) { - var feedContext = new FeedContext(id, localize("Plunge"), feedPerRev ? getParameter("operation:tool_feedPlungeRel") : getParameter("operation:tool_feedPlunge")); - activeFeeds.push(feedContext); - activeMovements[MOVEMENT_PLUNGE] = feedContext; - } - ++id; - } - if (true) { // high feed - if (movements & (1 << MOVEMENT_HIGH_FEED)) { - var feedContext = new FeedContext(id, localize("High Feed"), this.highFeedrate); - activeFeeds.push(feedContext); - activeMovements[MOVEMENT_HIGH_FEED] = feedContext; - } - ++id; - } - - for (var i = 0; i < activeFeeds.length; ++i) { - var feedContext = activeFeeds[i]; - writeBlock("#" + (firstFeedParameter + feedContext.id) + "=" + feedFormat.format(feedContext.feed), formatComment(feedContext.description)); - } -} - -function getSpindle() { - if (getNumberOfSections() == 0) { - return SPINDLE_PRIMARY; - } - if (getCurrentSectionId() < 0) { - return getSection(getNumberOfSections() - 1).spindle == 0; - } - if (currentSection.getType() == TYPE_TURNING) { - return currentSection.spindle; - } else { - if (isSameDirection(currentSection.workPlane.forward, new Vector(0, 0, 1))) { - return SPINDLE_PRIMARY; - } else if (isSameDirection(currentSection.workPlane.forward, new Vector(0, 0, -1))) { - if (!gotSecondarySpindle) { - error(localize("Secondary spindle is not available.")); - } - return SPINDLE_SECONDARY; - } else { - return SPINDLE_PRIMARY; - } - } -} - -function ToolingData(_tool) { - switch (_tool.turret) { - // Positional Turret - case 0: - this.tooling = TURRET; - this.toolPost = REAR; - break; - // QCTP X- - case 101: - this.tooling = QCTP; - this.toolPost = FRONT; - break; - // QCTP X+ - case 102: - this.tooling = QCTP; - this.toolPost = REAR; - break; - // Gang Tooling X- - case 103: - this.tooling = GANG; - this.toolPost = FRONT; - break; - // Gang Tooling X+ - case 104: - this.tooling = GANG; - this.toolPost = REAR; - break; - default: - error(localize("Turret number must be 0 (main turret), 101 (QCTP X-), 102 (QCTP X+, 103 (gang tooling X-), or 104 (gang tooling X+).")); - break; - } - this.number = _tool.number; - this.comment = _tool.comment; - this.toolLength = _tool.bodyLength; - // HSMWorks returns 0 in tool.bodyLength - if ((tool.bodyLength == 0) && hasParameter("operation:tool_bodyLength")) { - this.toolLength = getParameter("operation:tool_bodyLength"); - } -} - -function onSection() { - if (currentSection.getType() != TYPE_TURNING) { - if (!hasParameter("operation-strategy") || (getParameter("operation-strategy") != "drill")) { - if (currentSection.getType() == TYPE_MILLING) { - error(localize("Milling toolpath is not supported.")); - } else { - error(localize("Non-turning toolpath is not supported.")); - } - return; - } - } - - var forceToolAndRetract = optionalSection && !currentSection.isOptional(); - optionalSection = currentSection.isOptional(); - - var turning = (currentSection.getType() == TYPE_TURNING); - - var insertToolCall = forceToolAndRetract || isFirstSection() || - currentSection.getForceToolChange && currentSection.getForceToolChange() || - (tool.number != getPreviousSection().getTool().number) || - (tool.compensationOffset != getPreviousSection().getTool().compensationOffset) || - (tool.diameterOffset != getPreviousSection().getTool().diameterOffset) || - (tool.lengthOffset != getPreviousSection().getTool().lengthOffset); - - var retracted = false; // specifies that the tool has been retracted to the safe plane - var newSpindle = isFirstSection() || - (getPreviousSection().spindle != currentSection.spindle); - var newWorkOffset = isFirstSection() || - (getPreviousSection().workOffset != currentSection.workOffset); // work offset changes - - // determine which tooling holder is used - if (!isFirstSection()) { - previousToolingData = toolingData; - } - toolingData = new ToolingData(tool); - toolingData.operationComment = ""; - if (hasParameter("operation-comment")) { - toolingData.operationComment = getParameter("operation-comment"); - } - toolingData.toolChange = insertToolCall; - if (isFirstSection()) { - previousToolingData = toolingData; - } - - // turning using front tool post - if (toolingData.toolPost == FRONT) { - xFormat = createFormat({decimals:(unit == MM ? 3 : 4), forceDecimal:true, scale:-2}); - xOutput = createVariable({prefix:"X"}, xFormat); - iFormat = createFormat({decimals:(unit == MM ? 3 : 4), forceDecimal:true, scale:-1}); // radius mode - iOutput = createReferenceVariable({prefix:"I"}, iFormat); - - // turning using rear tool post - } else { - xFormat = createFormat({decimals:(unit == MM ? 3 : 4), forceDecimal:true, scale:2}); - xOutput = createVariable({prefix:"X"}, xFormat); - iFormat = createFormat({decimals:(unit == MM ? 3 : 4), forceDecimal:true, scale:1}); // radius mode - iOutput = createReferenceVariable({prefix:"I"}, iFormat); - } - - if (insertToolCall || newSpindle || newWorkOffset) { - // retract to safe plane - retracted = true; - if (!isFirstSection() && insertToolCall) { - onCommand(COMMAND_COOLANT_OFF); - } - writeBlock(gFormat.format(28), "U" + xFormat.format(0)); // retract - forceXYZ(); - } - - writeln(""); - - if (hasParameter("operation-comment")) { - var comment = getParameter("operation-comment"); - if (comment) { - writeComment(comment); - } - } - - if (properties.showNotes && hasParameter("notes")) { - var notes = getParameter("notes"); - if (notes) { - var lines = String(notes).split("\n"); - var r1 = new RegExp("^[\\s]+", "g"); - var r2 = new RegExp("[\\s]+$", "g"); - for (line in lines) { - var comment = lines[line].replace(r1, "").replace(r2, ""); - if (comment) { - writeComment(comment); - } - } - } - } - - if (insertToolCall) { - retracted = true; - // onCommand(COMMAND_COOLANT_OFF); - - if (!isFirstSection() && properties.optionalStop) { - onCommand(COMMAND_OPTIONAL_STOP); - } - - if (tool.number > 99) { - warning(localize("Tool number exceeds maximum value.")); - } - - if ((toolingData.tooling == QCTP) || tool.getManualToolChange()) { - var comment = formatComment(localize("CHANGE TO T") + tool.number + " " + localize("ON") + " " + - localize((toolingData.toolPost == REAR) ? "REAR TOOL POST" : "FRONT TOOL POST")); - writeBlock(mFormat.format(0), comment); - } - - var compensationOffset = tool.isTurningTool() ? tool.compensationOffset : tool.lengthOffset; - if (compensationOffset > 99) { - error(localize("Compensation offset is out of range.")); - return; - } - writeBlock("T" + toolFormat.format(tool.number * 100 + compensationOffset)); - if (tool.comment) { - writeComment(tool.comment); - } - - if (properties.preloadTool) { - var nextTool = getNextTool(tool.number); - if (nextTool) { - var compensationOffset = nextTool.isTurningTool() ? nextTool.compensationOffset : nextTool.lengthOffset; - if (compensationOffset > 99) { - error(localize("Compensation offset is out of range.")); - return; - } - writeBlock("T" + toolFormat.format(nextTool.number * 100 + compensationOffset)); - } else { - // preload first tool - var section = getSection(0); - var firstTool = section.getTool().number; - if (tool.number != firstTool.number) { - var compensationOffset = firstTool.isTurningTool() ? firstTool.compensationOffset : firstTool.lengthOffset; - if (compensationOffset > 99) { - error(localize("Compensation offset is out of range.")); - return; - } - writeBlock("T" + toolFormat.format(firstTool.number * 100 + compensationOffset)); - } - } - } - } - - // wcs - if (insertToolCall) { // force work offset when changing tool - currentWorkOffset = undefined; - } - var workOffset = currentSection.workOffset; - if (workOffset == 0) { - warningOnce(localize("Work offset has not been specified. Using G54 as WCS."), WARNING_WORK_OFFSET); - workOffset = 1; - } - if (workOffset > 0) { - if (workOffset > 6) { - var p = workOffset - 6; // 1->... - if (p > 300) { - error(localize("Work offset out of range.")); - return; - } else { - if (workOffset != currentWorkOffset) { - writeBlock(gFormat.format(54.1), "P" + p); // G54.1P - currentWorkOffset = workOffset; - } - } - } else { - if (workOffset != currentWorkOffset) { - writeBlock(gFormat.format(53 + workOffset)); // G54->G59 - currentWorkOffset = workOffset; - } - } - } - - // set coolant after we have positioned at Z - setCoolant(tool.coolant); - - forceAny(); - gMotionModal.reset(); - - gFeedModeModal.reset(); - if (currentSection.feedMode == FEED_PER_REVOLUTION) { - writeBlock(getCode("FEED_MODE_UNIT_REV")); - } else { - writeBlock(getCode("FEED_MODE_UNIT_MIN")); - } - - if (gotTailStock) { - writeBlock(currentSection.tailstock ? getCode("TAILSTOCK_ON") : getCode("TAILSTOCK_OFF")); - } - // writeBlock(mFormat.format(clampPrimaryChuck ? x : x)); - // writeBlock(mFormat.format(clampSecondaryChuck ? x : x)); - - var tapping = hasParameter("operation:cycleType") && - ((getParameter("operation:cycleType") == "tapping") || - (getParameter("operation:cycleType") == "right-tapping") || - (getParameter("operation:cycleType") == "left-tapping") || - (getParameter("operation:cycleType") == "tapping-with-chip-breaking")); - var initialPosition = getFramePosition(currentSection.getInitialPosition()); - if (!tapping || (tapping && !(properties.useRigidTapping == "without"))) { - startSpindle(false, true, initialPosition); - } - - setRotation(currentSection.workPlane); - - if (currentSection.partCatcher) { - engagePartCatcher(true); - } - - if (!retracted) { - // TAG: need to retract along X or Z - if (getCurrentPosition().z < initialPosition.z) { - writeBlock(gMotionModal.format(0), zOutput.format(initialPosition.z)); - } - } - - if (insertToolCall || tool.getSpindleMode() == SPINDLE_CONSTANT_SURFACE_SPEED) { - gMotionModal.reset(); - - if (properties.type == "A") { - writeBlock( - gMotionModal.format(0), xOutput.format(initialPosition.x), yOutput.format(initialPosition.y), zOutput.format(initialPosition.z) - ); - } else { - writeBlock( - gAbsIncModal.format(90), - gMotionModal.format(0), xOutput.format(initialPosition.x), yOutput.format(initialPosition.y), zOutput.format(initialPosition.z) - ); - } - - gMotionModal.reset(); - } - - // enable SFM spindle speed - if (tool.getSpindleMode() == SPINDLE_CONSTANT_SURFACE_SPEED) { - startSpindle(false, false); - } - - if (properties.useParametricFeed && - hasParameter("operation-strategy") && - (getParameter("operation-strategy") != "drill") && // legacy - !(currentSection.hasAnyCycle && currentSection.hasAnyCycle())) { - if (!insertToolCall && - activeMovements && - (getCurrentSectionId() > 0) && - ((getPreviousSection().getPatternId() == currentSection.getPatternId()) && (currentSection.getPatternId() != 0))) { - // use the current feeds - } else { - initializeActiveFeeds(); - } - } else { - activeMovements = undefined; - } - - if (insertToolCall || retracted) { - gPlaneModal.reset(); - } -} - -function onDwell(seconds) { - if (seconds > 99999.999) { - warning(localize("Dwelling time is out of range.")); - } - milliseconds = clamp(1, seconds * 1000, 99999999); - writeBlock(/*gFeedModeModal.format(94),*/ gFormat.format(4), "P" + milliFormat.format(milliseconds)); -} - -var pendingRadiusCompensation = -1; - -function onRadiusCompensation() { - pendingRadiusCompensation = radiusCompensation; -} - -function onRapid(_x, _y, _z) { - var x = xOutput.format(_x); - var y = yOutput.format(_y); - var z = zOutput.format(_z); - if (x || y || z) { - if (pendingRadiusCompensation >= 0) { - pendingRadiusCompensation = -1; - switch (radiusCompensation) { - case RADIUS_COMPENSATION_LEFT: - writeBlock(gMotionModal.format(0), gFormat.format(41), x, y, z); - break; - case RADIUS_COMPENSATION_RIGHT: - writeBlock(gMotionModal.format(0), gFormat.format(42), x, y, z); - break; - default: - writeBlock(gMotionModal.format(0), gFormat.format(40), x, y, z); - } - } else { - writeBlock(gMotionModal.format(0), x, y, z); - } - forceFeed(); - } -} - -var resetFeed = false; - -function onLinear(_x, _y, _z, feed) { - if (isSpeedFeedSynchronizationActive()) { - resetFeed = true; - var threadPitch = getParameter("operation:threadPitch"); - var threadsPerInch = 1.0 / threadPitch; // per mm for metric - writeBlock(gMotionModal.format(32), xOutput.format(_x), yOutput.format(_y), zOutput.format(_z), pitchOutput.format(1 / threadsPerInch)); - return; - } - if (resetFeed) { - resetFeed = false; - forceFeed(); - } - var x = xOutput.format(_x); - var y = yOutput.format(_y); - var z = zOutput.format(_z); - var f = getFeed(feed); - if (x || y || z) { - if (pendingRadiusCompensation >= 0) { - pendingRadiusCompensation = -1; - writeBlock(gPlaneModal.format(18)); - switch (radiusCompensation) { - case RADIUS_COMPENSATION_LEFT: - writeBlock(gMotionModal.format(isSpeedFeedSynchronizationActive() ? 32 : 1), gFormat.format(41), x, y, z, f); - break; - case RADIUS_COMPENSATION_RIGHT: - writeBlock(gMotionModal.format(isSpeedFeedSynchronizationActive() ? 32 : 1), gFormat.format(42), x, y, z, f); - break; - default: - writeBlock(gMotionModal.format(isSpeedFeedSynchronizationActive() ? 32 : 1), gFormat.format(40), x, y, z, f); - } - } else { - writeBlock(gMotionModal.format(isSpeedFeedSynchronizationActive() ? 32 : 1), x, y, z, f); - } - } else if (f) { - if (getNextRecord().isMotion()) { // try not to output feed without motion - forceFeed(); // force feed on next line - } else { - writeBlock(gMotionModal.format(isSpeedFeedSynchronizationActive() ? 32 : 1), f); - } - } -} - -function onCircular(clockwise, cx, cy, cz, x, y, z, feed) { - if (isSpeedFeedSynchronizationActive()) { - error(localize("Speed-feed synchronization is not supported for circular moves.")); - return; - } - - if (pendingRadiusCompensation >= 0) { - error(localize("Radius compensation cannot be activated/deactivated for a circular move.")); - return; - } - - var start = getCurrentPosition(); - var directionCode = (toolingData.toolPost == REAR) ? (clockwise ? 2 : 3) : (clockwise ? 3 : 2); - - if (isFullCircle()) { - if (properties.useRadius || isHelical()) { // radius mode does not support full arcs - linearize(tolerance); - return; - } - switch (getCircularPlane()) { - case PLANE_XY: - writeBlock(conditional(properties.type != "A", gAbsIncModal.format(90)), gPlaneModal.format(17), gMotionModal.format(directionCode), iOutput.format(cx - start.x, 0), jOutput.format(cy - start.y, 0), getFeed(feed)); - break; - case PLANE_ZX: - writeBlock(conditional(properties.type != "A", gAbsIncModal.format(90)), gPlaneModal.format(18), gMotionModal.format(directionCode), iOutput.format(cx - start.x, 0), kOutput.format(cz - start.z, 0), getFeed(feed)); - break; - case PLANE_YZ: - writeBlock(conditional(properties.type != "A", gAbsIncModal.format(90)), gPlaneModal.format(19), gMotionModal.format(directionCode), jOutput.format(cy - start.y, 0), kOutput.format(cz - start.z, 0), getFeed(feed)); - break; - default: - linearize(tolerance); - } - } else if (!properties.useRadius) { - switch (getCircularPlane()) { - case PLANE_XY: - writeBlock(conditional(properties.type != "A", gAbsIncModal.format(90)), gPlaneModal.format(17), gMotionModal.format(directionCode), xOutput.format(x), yOutput.format(y), zOutput.format(z), iOutput.format(cx - start.x, 0), jOutput.format(cy - start.y, 0), getFeed(feed)); - break; - case PLANE_ZX: - writeBlock(conditional(properties.type != "A", gAbsIncModal.format(90)), gPlaneModal.format(18), gMotionModal.format(directionCode), xOutput.format(x), yOutput.format(y), zOutput.format(z), iOutput.format(cx - start.x, 0), kOutput.format(cz - start.z, 0), getFeed(feed)); - break; - case PLANE_YZ: - writeBlock(conditional(properties.type != "A", gAbsIncModal.format(90)), gPlaneModal.format(19), gMotionModal.format(directionCode), xOutput.format(x), yOutput.format(y), zOutput.format(z), jOutput.format(cy - start.y, 0), kOutput.format(cz - start.z, 0), getFeed(feed)); - break; - default: - linearize(tolerance); - } - } else { // use radius mode - var r = getCircularRadius(); - if (toDeg(getCircularSweep()) > (180 + 1e-9)) { - r = -r; // allow up to <360 deg arcs - } - switch (getCircularPlane()) { - case PLANE_XY: - writeBlock(gPlaneModal.format(17), gMotionModal.format(directionCode), xOutput.format(x), yOutput.format(y), zOutput.format(z), "R" + rFormat.format(r), getFeed(feed)); - break; - case PLANE_ZX: - writeBlock(gPlaneModal.format(18), gMotionModal.format(directionCode), xOutput.format(x), yOutput.format(y), zOutput.format(z), "R" + rFormat.format(r), getFeed(feed)); - break; - case PLANE_YZ: - writeBlock(gPlaneModal.format(19), gMotionModal.format(directionCode), xOutput.format(x), yOutput.format(y), zOutput.format(z), "R" + rFormat.format(r), getFeed(feed)); - break; - default: - linearize(tolerance); - } - } -} - -function onCycle() { -} - -var saveShowSequenceNumbers = true; -var xyzFormat = createFormat({decimals:(unit == MM ? 4 : 5), forceDecimal:true}); -var pathBlockNumber = {start: 0, end: 0}; - -function onCyclePath() { - saveShowSequenceNumbers = properties.showSequenceNumbers; - - // buffer all paths and stop feeds being output - feedOutput.disable(); - properties.showSequenceNumbers = false; - redirectToBuffer(); - gMotionModal.reset(); - if ((hasParameter("operation:grooving") && getParameter("operation:grooving").toUpperCase() != "OFF")) { - forceXYZ(); - } -} - -function onCyclePathEnd() { - properties.showSequenceNumbers = saveShowSequenceNumbers; // reset property to initial state - feedOutput.enable(); - var cyclePath = String(getRedirectionBuffer()).split(EOL); // get cycle path from buffer - closeRedirection(); - for (line in cyclePath) { // remove empty elements - if (cyclePath[line] == "") { - cyclePath.splice(line); - } - } - - var verticalPasses; - if (cycle.profileRoughingCycle == 0) { - verticalPasses = false; - } else if (cycle.profileRoughingCycle == 1) { - verticalPasses = true; - } else { - error(localize("Unsupported passes type.")); - return; - } - // output cycle data - switch (cycleType) { - case "turning-canned-rough": - writeBlock(gFormat.format(verticalPasses ? 72 : 71), - (verticalPasses ? "W" : "U") + xyzFormat.format(cycle.depthOfCut), - "R" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.retractLength) - ); - writeBlock(gFormat.format(verticalPasses ? 72 : 71), - "P" + (getStartEndSequenceNumber(cyclePath, true)), - "Q" + (getStartEndSequenceNumber(cyclePath, false)), - "U" + xFormat.format(cycle.xStockToLeave), - "W" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.zStockToLeave), - getFeed(cycle.cutfeedrate) - ); - break; - default: - error(localize("Unsupported turning canned cycle.")); - } - - for (var i = 0; i < cyclePath.length; ++i) { - if (i == 0 || i == (cyclePath.length - 1)) { // write sequence number on first and last line of the cycle path - properties.showSequenceNumbers = true; - if ((i == 0 && pathBlockNumber.start != sequenceNumber) || (i == (cyclePath.length - 1) && pathBlockNumber.end != sequenceNumber)) { - error(localize("Mismatch of start/end block number in turning canned cycle.")); - return; - } - } - writeBlock(cyclePath[i]); // output cycle path - properties.showSequenceNumbers = saveShowSequenceNumbers; // reset property to initial state - } -} - -function getStartEndSequenceNumber(cyclePath, start) { - if (start) { - pathBlockNumber.start = sequenceNumber + conditional(saveShowSequenceNumbers, properties.sequenceNumberIncrement); - return pathBlockNumber.start; - } else { - pathBlockNumber.end = sequenceNumber + properties.sequenceNumberIncrement + conditional(saveShowSequenceNumbers, (cyclePath.length - 1) * properties.sequenceNumberIncrement); - return pathBlockNumber.end; - } -} - -function getCommonCycle(x, y, z, r) { - forceXYZ(); // force xyz on first drill hole of any cycle - return [xOutput.format(x), yOutput.format(y), - zOutput.format(z), - "R" + spatialFormat.format(r)]; -} - -function onCyclePoint(x, y, z) { - if (isSameDirection(currentSection.workPlane.forward, new Vector(0, 0, 1)) || - isSameDirection(currentSection.workPlane.forward, new Vector(0, 0, -1))) { - gPlaneModal.format(17); // 2-axis lathes typically don't use G17 - } else { - expandCyclePoint(x, y, z); - return; - } - - switch (cycleType) { - case "thread-turning": - var inverted = (toolingData.toolPost == REAR) ? 1 : -1; - var r = -cycle.incrementalX * inverted; // positive if taper goes down - delta radius - var threadsPerInch = 1.0 / cycle.pitch; // per mm for metric - var f = 1 / threadsPerInch; - var codes = {A: 92, B: 78, C: 21}; - writeBlock( - gMotionModal.format(codes[properties.type]), - xOutput.format(x - cycle.incrementalX), - yOutput.format(y), - zOutput.format(z), - conditional(zFormat.isSignificant(r), g92ROutput.format(r)), - feedOutput.format(f) - ); - return; - } - - if (isFirstCyclePoint()) { - repositionToCycleClearance(cycle, x, y, z); - - var F = cycle.feedrate; - var P = !cycle.dwell ? 0 : clamp(1, cycle.dwell * 1000, 99999999); // in milliseconds - - switch (cycleType) { - case "drilling": - writeBlock( - (properties.type == "A") ? "" : gRetractModal.format(98), conditional(properties.type != "A", gAbsIncModal.format(90)), gCycleModal.format(81), - getCommonCycle(x, y, z, cycle.retract), - feedOutput.format(F) - ); - break; - case "counter-boring": - if (P > 0) { - writeBlock( - (properties.type == "A") ? "" : gRetractModal.format(98), conditional(properties.type != "A", gAbsIncModal.format(90)), gCycleModal.format(82), - getCommonCycle(x, y, z, cycle.retract), - "P" + milliFormat.format(P), - feedOutput.format(F) - ); - } else { - writeBlock( - (properties.type == "A") ? "" : gRetractModal.format(98), conditional(properties.type != "A", gAbsIncModal.format(90)), gCycleModal.format(81), - getCommonCycle(x, y, z, cycle.retract), - feedOutput.format(F) - ); - } - break; - case "chip-breaking": - if ((cycle.accumulatedDepth < cycle.depth) || (P > 0)) { - expandCyclePoint(x, y, z); - } else { - writeBlock( - (properties.type == "A") ? "" : gRetractModal.format(98), conditional(properties.type != "A", gAbsIncModal.format(90)), gCycleModal.format(73), - getCommonCycle(x, y, z, cycle.retract), - peckOutput.format(cycle.incrementalDepth), - feedOutput.format(F) - ); - } - break; - case "deep-drilling": - if (P > 0) { - expandCyclePoint(x, y, z); - } else { - writeBlock( - (properties.type == "A") ? "" : gRetractModal.format(98), conditional(properties.type != "A", gAbsIncModal.format(90)), gCycleModal.format(83), - getCommonCycle(x, y, z, cycle.retract), - peckOutput.format(cycle.incrementalDepth), - // conditional(P > 0, "P" + milliFormat.format(P)), - feedOutput.format(F) - ); - } - break; - case "tapping": - F = tool.getThreadPitch() * rpmFormat.getResultingValue(spindleSpeed); - if (properties.useRigidTapping != "no") { - startSpindle(true, false); - } - writeBlock( - (properties.type == "A") ? "" : gRetractModal.format(98), conditional(properties.type != "A", gAbsIncModal.format(90)), gCycleModal.format((tool.type == TOOL_TAP_LEFT_HAND) ? 74 : 84), - getCommonCycle(x, y, z, cycle.retract), - "P" + milliFormat.format(P), - feedOutput.format(F) - ); - break; - case "left-tapping": - F = tool.getThreadPitch() * rpmFormat.getResultingValue(spindleSpeed); - if (properties.useRigidTapping != "no") { - startSpindle(true, false); - } - writeBlock( - (properties.type == "A") ? "" : gRetractModal.format(98), conditional(properties.type != "A", gAbsIncModal.format(90)), gCycleModal.format(74), - getCommonCycle(x, y, z, cycle.retract), - "P" + milliFormat.format(P), - feedOutput.format(F) - ); - break; - case "right-tapping": - F = tool.getThreadPitch() * rpmFormat.getResultingValue(spindleSpeed); - if (properties.useRigidTapping != "no") { - startSpindle(true, false); - } - writeBlock( - (properties.type == "A") ? "" : gRetractModal.format(98), conditional(properties.type != "A", gAbsIncModal.format(90)), gCycleModal.format(84), - getCommonCycle(x, y, z, cycle.retract), - "P" + milliFormat.format(P), - feedOutput.format(F) - ); - break; - case "tapping-with-chip-breaking": - case "left-tapping-with-chip-breaking": - case "right-tapping-with-chip-breaking": - F = tool.getThreadPitch() * rpmFormat.getResultingValue(spindleSpeed); - if (properties.useRigidTapping != "no") { - startSpindle(true, false); - } - writeBlock( - (properties.type == "A") ? "" : gRetractModal.format(98), conditional(properties.type != "A", gAbsIncModal.format(90)), gCycleModal.format((tool.type == TOOL_TAP_LEFT_HAND ? 74 : 84)), - getCommonCycle(x, y, z, cycle.retract), - "P" + milliFormat.format(P), - peckOutput.format(cycle.incrementalDepth), - feedOutput.format(F) - ); - break; - case "fine-boring": - writeBlock( - (properties.type == "A") ? "" : gRetractModal.format(98), conditional(properties.type != "A", gAbsIncModal.format(90)), gCycleModal.format(76), - getCommonCycle(x, y, z, cycle.retract), - "P" + milliFormat.format(P), // not optional - "Q" + xFormat.format(cycle.shift), - feedOutput.format(F) - ); - break; - case "reaming": - if (P > 0) { - writeBlock( - (properties.type == "A") ? "" : gRetractModal.format(98), conditional(properties.type != "A", gAbsIncModal.format(90)), gCycleModal.format(89), - getCommonCycle(x, y, z, cycle.retract), - "P" + milliFormat.format(P), - feedOutput.format(F) - ); - } else { - writeBlock( - (properties.type == "A") ? "" : gRetractModal.format(98), conditional(properties.type != "A", gAbsIncModal.format(90)), gCycleModal.format(85), - getCommonCycle(x, y, z, cycle.retract), - feedOutput.format(F) - ); - } - break; - case "stop-boring": - if (P > 0) { - expandCyclePoint(x, y, z); - } else { - writeBlock( - (properties.type == "A") ? "" : gRetractModal.format(98), conditional(properties.type != "A", gAbsIncModal.format(90)), gCycleModal.format(86), - getCommonCycle(x, y, z, cycle.retract), - feedOutput.format(F) - ); - } - break; - case "boring": - if (P > 0) { - writeBlock( - (properties.type == "A") ? "" : gRetractModal.format(98), conditional(properties.type != "A", gAbsIncModal.format(90)), gCycleModal.format(89), - getCommonCycle(x, y, z, cycle.retract), - "P" + milliFormat.format(P), // not optional - feedOutput.format(F) - ); - } else { - writeBlock( - (properties.type == "A") ? "" : gRetractModal.format(98), conditional(properties.type != "A", gAbsIncModal.format(90)), gCycleModal.format(85), - getCommonCycle(x, y, z, cycle.retract), - feedOutput.format(F) - ); - } - break; - default: - expandCyclePoint(x, y, z); - } - } else { - if (cycleExpanded) { - expandCyclePoint(x, y, z); - } else { - var _x = xOutput.format(x); - var _y = yOutput.format(y); - var _z = zOutput.format(z); - if (!_x && !_y && !_z) { - switch (gPlaneModal.getCurrent()) { - case 17: // XY - xOutput.reset(); // at least one axis is required - _x = xOutput.format(x); - break; - case 18: // ZX - zOutput.reset(); // at least one axis is required - _z = zOutput.format(z); - break; - case 19: // YZ - yOutput.reset(); // at least one axis is required - _y = yOutput.format(y); - break; - } - } - writeBlock(_x, _y, _z); - } - } -} - -function onCycleEnd() { - if (!cycleExpanded) { - switch (cycleType) { - case "thread-turning": - forceFeed(); - xOutput.reset(); - zOutput.reset(); - g92ROutput.reset(); - break; - default: - writeBlock(gCycleModal.format(80)); - } - } -} - -var currentCoolantMode = COOLANT_OFF; - -function setCoolant(coolant) { - if (coolant == currentCoolantMode) { - return; // coolant is already active - } - - var m = undefined; - if (coolant == COOLANT_OFF) { - writeBlock((currentCoolantMode == COOLANT_THROUGH_TOOL) ? getCode("COOLANT_THROUGH_TOOL_OFF") : getCode("COOLANT_OFF")); - currentCoolantMode = COOLANT_OFF; - return; - } - - switch (coolant) { - case COOLANT_FLOOD: - m = getCode("COOLANT_FLOOD_ON"); - break; - case COOLANT_THROUGH_TOOL: - m = getCode("COOLANT_THROUGH_TOOL_ON"); - break; - default: - onUnsupportedCoolant(coolant); - m = getCode("COOLANT_OFF"); - } - - if (m) { - writeBlock(m); - currentCoolantMode = coolant; - } -} - -function onSpindleSpeed(spindleSpeed) { - if (rpmFormat.areDifferent(spindleSpeed, sOutput.getCurrent())) { - writeBlock(sOutput.format(spindleSpeed)); - } -} - -function startSpindle(tappingMode, forceRPMMode, initialPosition) { - var spindleDir; - var _spindleSpeed; - var spindleMode; - var maxSpeed = ""; - gSpindleModeModal.reset(); - gSpindleModeModal.reset(); - - if ((getSpindle() == SPINDLE_SECONDARY) && !gotSecondarySpindle) { - error(localize("Secondary spindle is not available.")); - return; - } - - if (tappingMode) { - writeBlock(mFormat.format(29), sOutput.format(spindleSpeed)); - return; - } else { - if (getSpindle() == SPINDLE_SECONDARY) { - spindleDir = tool.clockwise ? getCode("START_SUB_SPINDLE_CW") : getCode("START_SUB_SPINDLE_CCW"); - } else { - spindleDir = tool.clockwise ? getCode("START_MAIN_SPINDLE_CW") : getCode("START_MAIN_SPINDLE_CCW"); - } - } - - var maximumSpindleSpeed = (tool.maximumSpindleSpeed > 0) ? Math.min(tool.maximumSpindleSpeed, properties.maximumSpindleSpeed) : properties.maximumSpindleSpeed; - if (tool.getSpindleMode() == SPINDLE_CONSTANT_SURFACE_SPEED) { - _spindleSpeed = tool.surfaceSpeed * ((unit == MM) ? 1 / 1000.0 : 1 / 12.0); - if (forceRPMMode) { // RPM mode is forced until move to initial position - if (xFormat.getResultingValue(initialPosition.x) == 0) { - _spindleSpeed = maximumSpindleSpeed; - } else { - _spindleSpeed = Math.min((_spindleSpeed * ((unit == MM) ? 1000.0 : 12.0) / (Math.PI * Math.abs(initialPosition.x * 2))), maximumSpindleSpeed); - } - spindleMode = getCode("CONSTANT_SURFACE_SPEED_OFF"); - } else { - if (properties.type == "A") { - writeBlock(gFormat.format(50), sOutput.format(maximumSpindleSpeed)); - } else { - writeBlock(gFormat.format(92), sOutput.format(maximumSpindleSpeed)); - } - spindleMode = getCode("CONSTANT_SURFACE_SPEED_ON"); - } - } else { - _spindleSpeed = spindleSpeed; - spindleMode = getCode("CONSTANT_SURFACE_SPEED_OFF"); - } - if (getSpindle(true) == SPINDLE_SECONDARY) { - writeBlock( - spindleMode, - sOutput.format(_spindleSpeed), - spindleDir - ); - } else { - writeBlock( - spindleMode, - sOutput.format(_spindleSpeed), - spindleDir - ); - } - // wait for spindle here if required -} - -function onCommand(command) { - switch (command) { - case COMMAND_COOLANT_OFF: - setCoolant(COOLANT_OFF); - return; - case COMMAND_COOLANT_ON: - setCoolant(COOLANT_FLOOD); - return; - case COMMAND_LOCK_MULTI_AXIS: - return; - case COMMAND_UNLOCK_MULTI_AXIS: - return; - case COMMAND_START_CHIP_TRANSPORT: - // getCode("START_CHIP_TRANSPORT"); - return; - case COMMAND_STOP_CHIP_TRANSPORT: - // getCode("STOP_CHIP_TRANSPORT"); - return; - case COMMAND_BREAK_CONTROL: - return; - case COMMAND_TOOL_MEASURE: - return; - case COMMAND_ACTIVATE_SPEED_FEED_SYNCHRONIZATION: - return; - case COMMAND_DEACTIVATE_SPEED_FEED_SYNCHRONIZATION: - return; - case COMMAND_STOP: - writeBlock(mFormat.format(0)); - forceSpindleSpeed = true; - return; - case COMMAND_OPTIONAL_STOP: - writeBlock(mFormat.format(1)); - break; - case COMMAND_END: - writeBlock(mFormat.format(2)); - break; - case COMMAND_SPINDLE_CLOCKWISE: - switch (currentSection.spindle) { - case SPINDLE_PRIMARY: - writeBlock(mFormat.format(3)); - break; - case SPINDLE_SECONDARY: - writeBlock(mFormat.format(143)); - break; - } - break; - case COMMAND_SPINDLE_COUNTERCLOCKWISE: - switch (currentSection.spindle) { - case SPINDLE_PRIMARY: - writeBlock(mFormat.format(4)); - break; - case SPINDLE_SECONDARY: - writeBlock(mFormat.format(144)); - break; - } - break; - case COMMAND_START_SPINDLE: - onCommand(tool.clockwise ? COMMAND_SPINDLE_CLOCKWISE : COMMAND_SPINDLE_COUNTERCLOCKWISE); - return; - case COMMAND_STOP_SPINDLE: - switch (currentSection.spindle) { - case SPINDLE_PRIMARY: - writeBlock(mFormat.format(5)); - break; - case SPINDLE_SECONDARY: - writeBlock(mFormat.format(145)); - break; - } - break; - case COMMAND_ORIENTATE_SPINDLE: - if (getSpindle() == 0) { - writeBlock(mFormat.format(19)); // use P or R to set angle (optional) - } else { - writeBlock(mFormat.format(119)); - } - break; - //case COMMAND_CLAMP: // TAG: add support for clamping - //case COMMAND_UNCLAMP: // TAG: add support for clamping - default: - onUnsupportedCommand(command); - } -} - -function engagePartCatcher(engage) { - if (engage) { - // catch part here - writeBlock(getCode("PART_CATCHER_ON"), formatComment(localize("PART CATCHER ON"))); - } else { - onCommand(COMMAND_COOLANT_OFF); - writeBlock(gFormat.format(28), gMotionModal.format(0), "U" + xFormat.format(properties.g53HomePositionX)); // retract - writeBlock(gFormat.format(28), gMotionModal.format(0), "W" + zFormat.format(properties.g53HomePositionZ)); // retract - writeBlock(getCode("PART_CATCHER_OFF"), formatComment(localize("PART CATCHER OFF"))); - forceXYZ(); - } -} - -function onSectionEnd() { - - // cancel SFM mode to preserve spindle speed - if (tool.getSpindleMode() == SPINDLE_CONSTANT_SURFACE_SPEED) { - startSpindle(false, true, getFramePosition(currentSection.getFinalPosition())); - } - - if (currentSection.partCatcher) { - engagePartCatcher(false); - } - - forceAny(); -} - -function onClose() { - writeln(""); - - optionalSection = false; - - onCommand(COMMAND_COOLANT_OFF); - - onCommand(COMMAND_STOP_CHIP_TRANSPORT); - - // we might want to retract in Z before X - // writeBlock(gFormat.format(28), "U" + xFormat.format(0)); // retract - - forceXYZ(); - if (!machineConfiguration.hasHomePositionX() && !machineConfiguration.hasHomePositionY()) { - writeBlock(gFormat.format(28), "U" + xFormat.format(0), conditional(yOutput.isEnabled(), "V" + yFormat.format(0)), "W" + zFormat.format(0)); // return to home - } else { - var homeX; - if (machineConfiguration.hasHomePositionX()) { - homeX = xOutput.format(machineConfiguration.getHomePositionX()); - } - var homeY; - if (yOutput.isEnabled() && machineConfiguration.hasHomePositionY()) { - homeY = yOutput.format(machineConfiguration.getHomePositionY()); - } - if (properties.type == "A") { - writeBlock(gFormat.format(53), gMotionModal.format(0), homeX, homeY, zOutput.format(machineConfiguration.getRetractPlane())); - } else { - writeBlock(gAbsIncModal.format(90), gFormat.format(53), gMotionModal.format(0), homeX, homeY, zOutput.format(machineConfiguration.getRetractPlane())); - } - } - - onImpliedCommand(COMMAND_END); - onImpliedCommand(COMMAND_STOP_SPINDLE); - writeBlock(mFormat.format(30)); // stop program, spindle stop, coolant off - writeln("%"); -} diff --git a/resources/workshop/.inc/saturn/mc/fanuc2/fanuc with subprograms.cps b/resources/workshop/.inc/saturn/mc/fanuc2/fanuc with subprograms.cps deleted file mode 100644 index bd38d7159..000000000 --- a/resources/workshop/.inc/saturn/mc/fanuc2/fanuc with subprograms.cps +++ /dev/null @@ -1,2087 +0,0 @@ -/** - Copyright (C) 2012-2020 by Autodesk, Inc. - All rights reserved. - - FANUC post processor configuration. - - $Revision: 42645 dab327b1b16b423b75c69877cc91aea7ea31c0ac $ - $Date: 2020-02-06 06:32:21 $ - - FORKID {04622D27-72F0-45d4-85FB-DB346FD1AE22} -*/ - -description = "FANUC with subprograms"; -vendor = "Fanuc"; -vendorUrl = "http://www.fanuc.com"; -legal = "Copyright (C) 2012-2020 by Autodesk, Inc."; -certificationLevel = 2; -minimumRevision = 40783; - -longDescription = "Generic FANUC post which has built-in support for subprograms. By default each operation will be output in separate files. If you turn off the 'useFilesForSubprograms' property you will get the subprograms embedded in the main program."; - -extension = "nc"; -programNameIsInteger = true; -setCodePage("ascii"); - -capabilities = CAPABILITY_MILLING; -tolerance = spatial(0.002, MM); - -minimumChordLength = spatial(0.25, MM); -minimumCircularRadius = spatial(0.01, MM); -maximumCircularRadius = spatial(1000, MM); -minimumCircularSweep = toRad(0.01); -maximumCircularSweep = toRad(180); -allowHelicalMoves = true; -allowedCircularPlanes = undefined; // allow any circular motion -highFeedrate = (unit == IN) ? 500 : 5000; - -// user-defined properties -properties = { - writeMachine: true, // write machine - writeTools: true, // writes the tools - preloadTool: true, // preloads next tool on tool change if any - showSequenceNumbers: true, // show sequence numbers - sequenceNumberStart: 10, // first sequence number - sequenceNumberIncrement: 5, // increment for sequence numbers - optionalStop: true, // optional stop - o8: false, // specifies 8-digit program number - separateWordsWithSpace: true, // specifies that the words should be separated with a white space - useFilesForSubprograms: true, // specifies that one file should be generated to section - allow3DArcs: false, // specifies that 3D circular arcs are allowed - useRadius: false, // specifies that arcs should be output using the radius (R word) instead of the I, J, and K words - forceIJK: false, // force output of IJK for G2/G3 when not using R word - useParametricFeed: false, // specifies that feed should be output using Q values - showNotes: false, // specifies that operation notes should be output - useSmoothing: false, // specifies if smoothing should be used or not - usePitchForTapping: false, // enable to use pitch instead of feed for the F-word for canned tapping cycles - note that your CNC control must be setup for pitch mode! - useG95: false, // use IPR/MPR instead of IPM/MPM - useG54x4: false, // Fanuc 30i supports G54.4 for Workpiece Error Compensation - useRigidTapping: "yes" // output rigid tapping block -}; - -// user-defined property definitions -propertyDefinitions = { - writeMachine: {title:"Write machine", description:"Output the machine settings in the header of the code.", group:0, type:"boolean"}, - writeTools: {title:"Write tool list", description:"Output a tool list in the header of the code.", group:0, type:"boolean"}, - preloadTool: {title:"Preload tool", description:"Preloads the next tool at a tool change (if any).", group:1, type:"boolean"}, - showSequenceNumbers: {title:"Use sequence numbers", description:"Use sequence numbers for each block of outputted code.", group:1, type:"boolean"}, - sequenceNumberStart: {title:"Start sequence number", description:"The number at which to start the sequence numbers.", group:1, type:"integer"}, - sequenceNumberIncrement: {title:"Sequence number increment", description:"The amount by which the sequence number is incremented by in each block.", group:1, type:"integer"}, - optionalStop: {title:"Optional stop", description:"Outputs optional stop code during when necessary in the code.", type:"boolean"}, - o8: {title:"8 Digit program number", description:"Specifies that an 8 digit program number is needed.", type:"boolean"}, - separateWordsWithSpace: {title:"Separate words with space", description:"Adds spaces between words if 'yes' is selected.", type:"boolean"}, - useFilesForSubprograms: {title:"Use files for subprograms", description:"Specifies that one file should be generated for each section.", type:"boolean"}, - allow3DArcs: {title:"Allow 3D arcs", description:"Specifies whether 3D circular arcs are allowed.", type:"boolean"}, - useRadius: {title:"Radius arcs", description:"If yes is selected, arcs are outputted using radius values rather than IJK.", type:"boolean"}, - forceIJK: {title:"Force IJK", description:"Force the output of IJK for G2/G3 when not using R mode.", type:"boolean"}, - useParametricFeed: {title:"Parametric feed", description:"Specifies the feed value that should be output using a Q value.", type:"boolean"}, - showNotes: {title:"Show notes", description:"Writes operation notes as comments in the outputted code.", type:"boolean"}, - useSmoothing: {title:"Use smoothing", description:"Specifies if smoothing should be used or not.", type:"boolean"}, - usePitchForTapping: {title:"Use pitch for tapping", description:"Enables the use of pitch instead of feed for the F-word in canned tapping cycles. Your CNC control must be setup for pitch mode!", type:"boolean"}, - useG95: {title:"Use G95", description:"Use IPR/MPR instead of IPM/MPM.", type:"boolean"}, - useG54x4: {title:"Use G54.4", description:"Fanuc 30i supports G54.4 for workpiece error compensation.", type:"boolean"}, - useRigidTapping: { - title: "Use rigid tapping", - description: "Select 'Yes' to enable, 'No' to disable, or 'Without spindle direction' to enable rigid tapping without outputting the spindle direction block.", - type: "enum", - values:[ - {title:"Yes", id:"yes"}, - {title:"No", id:"no"}, - {title:"Without spindle direction", id:"without"} - ] - } -}; - -var permittedCommentChars = " ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZ0123456789.,=_-"; - -var gFormat = createFormat({prefix:"G", width:2, zeropad:true, decimals:1}); -var mFormat = createFormat({prefix:"M", width:2, zeropad:true, decimals:1}); -var hFormat = createFormat({prefix:"H", width:2, zeropad:true, decimals:1}); -var dFormat = createFormat({prefix:"D", width:2, zeropad:true, decimals:1}); -var probe100Format = createFormat({decimals:3, zeropad:true, width:3, forceDecimal:true}); - -var xyzFormat = createFormat({decimals:(unit == MM ? 3 : 4), forceDecimal:true}); -var ijkFormat = createFormat({decimals:6, forceDecimal:true}); // unitless -var rFormat = xyzFormat; // radius -var abcFormat = createFormat({decimals:3, forceDecimal:true, scale:DEG}); -var feedFormat = createFormat({decimals:(unit == MM ? 0 : 1), forceDecimal:true}); -var pitchFormat = createFormat({decimals:(unit == MM ? 3 : 4), forceDecimal:true}); -var toolFormat = createFormat({decimals:0}); -var rpmFormat = createFormat({decimals:0}); -var secFormat = createFormat({decimals:3, forceDecimal:true}); // seconds - range 0.001-99999.999 -var milliFormat = createFormat({decimals:0}); // milliseconds // range 1-9999 -var taperFormat = createFormat({decimals:1, scale:DEG}); -var peckFormat = createFormat({decimals:(unit == MM ? 3 : 4), forceDecimal:true}); -// var peckFormat = createFormat({decimals:0, forceDecimal:false, trim:false, width:4, zeropad:true, scale:(unit == MM ? 1000 : 10000)}); - -var xOutput = createVariable({prefix:"X"}, xyzFormat); -var yOutput = createVariable({prefix:"Y"}, xyzFormat); -var zOutput = createVariable({prefix:"Z"}, xyzFormat); -var aOutput = createVariable({prefix:"A"}, abcFormat); -var bOutput = createVariable({prefix:"B"}, abcFormat); -var cOutput = createVariable({prefix:"C"}, abcFormat); -var feedOutput = createVariable({prefix:"F"}, feedFormat); -var pitchOutput = createVariable({prefix:"F", force:true}, pitchFormat); -var sOutput = createVariable({prefix:"S", force:true}, rpmFormat); -var dOutput = createVariable({}, dFormat); -var peckOutput = createVariable({prefix:"Q", force:true}, peckFormat); - -// circular output -var iOutput = createReferenceVariable({prefix:"I"}, xyzFormat); -var jOutput = createReferenceVariable({prefix:"J"}, xyzFormat); -var kOutput = createReferenceVariable({prefix:"K"}, xyzFormat); - -var gMotionModal = createModal({}, gFormat); // modal group 1 // G0-G3, ... -var gPlaneModal = createModal({onchange:function () {gMotionModal.reset();}}, gFormat); // modal group 2 // G17-19 -var gAbsIncModal = createModal({}, gFormat); // modal group 3 // G90-91 -var gFeedModeModal = createModal({}, gFormat); // modal group 5 // G94-95 -var gUnitModal = createModal({}, gFormat); // modal group 6 // G20-21 -var gCycleModal = createModal({}, gFormat); // modal group 9 // G81, ... -var gRetractModal = createModal({}, gFormat); // modal group 10 // G98-99 -var gRotationModal = createModal({}, gFormat); // modal group 16 // G68-G69 - -// fixed settings -var firstFeedParameter = 500; -var useMultiAxisFeatures = true; -var forceMultiAxisIndexing = false; // force multi-axis indexing for 3D programs -var cancelTiltFirst = false; // cancel G68.2 with G69 prior to G54-G59 WCS block -var useABCPrepositioning = false; // position ABC axes prior to G68.2 block - -var WARNING_WORK_OFFSET = 0; - -var ANGLE_PROBE_NOT_SUPPORTED = 0; -var ANGLE_PROBE_USE_ROTATION = 1; -var ANGLE_PROBE_USE_CAXIS = 2; - -// collected state -var sequenceNumber; -var currentWorkOffset; -var previousSequenceNumber; -var subprograms = ""; -var optionalSection = false; -var forceSpindleSpeed = false; -var activeMovements; // do not use by default -var currentFeedId; -var g68RotationMode = 0; -var angularProbingMode; -probeMultipleFeatures = true; - -/** - Writes the specified block. -*/ -function writeBlock() { - if (properties.showSequenceNumbers) { - if (optionalSection) { - var text = formatWords(arguments); - if (text) { - writeWords("/", "N" + sequenceNumber, text); - } - } else { - writeWords2("N" + sequenceNumber, arguments); - } - sequenceNumber += properties.sequenceNumberIncrement; - } else { - if (optionalSection) { - writeWords2("/", arguments); - } else { - writeWords(arguments); - } - } -} - -/** - Writes the specified optional block. -*/ -function writeOptionalBlock() { - if (properties.showSequenceNumbers) { - var words = formatWords(arguments); - if (words) { - writeWords("/", "N" + sequenceNumber, words); - sequenceNumber += properties.sequenceNumberIncrement; - } - } else { - writeWords2("/", arguments); - } -} - -function formatComment(text) { - return "(" + filterText(String(text).toUpperCase(), permittedCommentChars).replace(/[()]/g, "") + ")"; -} - -/** - Output a comment. -*/ -function writeComment(text) { - writeln(formatComment(text)); -} - -function onOpen() { - if (properties.useRadius) { - maximumCircularSweep = toRad(90); // avoid potential center calculation errors for CNC - } - gRotationModal.format(69); // Default to G69 Rotation Off - - if (false) { // note: setup your machine here - var aAxis = createAxis({coordinate:0, table:false, axis:[1, 0, 0], range:[-360, 360], preference:1}); - var cAxis = createAxis({coordinate:2, table:false, axis:[0, 0, 1], range:[-360, 360], preference:1}); - machineConfiguration = new MachineConfiguration(aAxis, cAxis); - - setMachineConfiguration(machineConfiguration); - optimizeMachineAngles2(0); // TCP mode - } - - if (!machineConfiguration.isMachineCoordinate(0)) { - aOutput.disable(); - } - if (!machineConfiguration.isMachineCoordinate(1)) { - bOutput.disable(); - } - if (!machineConfiguration.isMachineCoordinate(2)) { - cOutput.disable(); - } - - if (!properties.separateWordsWithSpace) { - setWordSeparator(""); - } - - if (properties.forceIJK) { - iOutput = createReferenceVariable({prefix:"I", force:true}, xyzFormat); - jOutput = createReferenceVariable({prefix:"J", force:true}, xyzFormat); - kOutput = createReferenceVariable({prefix:"K", force:true}, xyzFormat); - } - - sequenceNumber = properties.sequenceNumberStart; - writeln("%"); - - if (programName) { - var programId; - try { - programId = getAsInt(programName); - } catch (e) { - error(localize("Program name must be a number.")); - return; - } - if (properties.o8) { - if (!((programId >= 1) && (programId <= 99999999))) { - error(localize("Program number is out of range.")); - return; - } - } else { - if (!((programId >= 1) && (programId <= 9999))) { - error(localize("Program number is out of range.")); - return; - } - } - if ((programId >= 8000) && (programId <= 9999)) { - warning(localize("Program number is reserved by tool builder.")); - } - var oFormat = createFormat({width:(properties.o8 ? 8 : 4), zeropad:true, decimals:0}); - if (programComment) { - writeln("O" + oFormat.format(programId) + " (" + filterText(String(programComment).toUpperCase(), permittedCommentChars) + ")"); - } else { - writeln("O" + oFormat.format(programId)); - } - } else { - error(localize("Program name has not been specified.")); - return; - } - - // dump machine configuration - var vendor = machineConfiguration.getVendor(); - var model = machineConfiguration.getModel(); - var description = machineConfiguration.getDescription(); - - if (properties.writeMachine && (vendor || model || description)) { - writeComment(localize("Machine")); - if (vendor) { - writeComment(" " + localize("vendor") + ": " + vendor); - } - if (model) { - writeComment(" " + localize("model") + ": " + model); - } - if (description) { - writeComment(" " + localize("description") + ": " + description); - } - } - - // dump tool information - if (properties.writeTools) { - var zRanges = {}; - if (is3D()) { - var numberOfSections = getNumberOfSections(); - for (var i = 0; i < numberOfSections; ++i) { - var section = getSection(i); - var zRange = section.getGlobalZRange(); - var tool = section.getTool(); - if (zRanges[tool.number]) { - zRanges[tool.number].expandToRange(zRange); - } else { - zRanges[tool.number] = zRange; - } - } - } - - var tools = getToolTable(); - if (tools.getNumberOfTools() > 0) { - for (var i = 0; i < tools.getNumberOfTools(); ++i) { - var tool = tools.getTool(i); - var comment = "T" + toolFormat.format(tool.number) + " " + - "D=" + xyzFormat.format(tool.diameter) + " " + - localize("CR") + "=" + xyzFormat.format(tool.cornerRadius); - if ((tool.taperAngle > 0) && (tool.taperAngle < Math.PI)) { - comment += " " + localize("TAPER") + "=" + taperFormat.format(tool.taperAngle) + localize("deg"); - } - if (zRanges[tool.number]) { - comment += " - " + localize("ZMIN") + "=" + xyzFormat.format(zRanges[tool.number].getMinimum()); - } - comment += " - " + getToolTypeName(tool.type); - writeComment(comment); - } - } - } - - if (false) { - // check for duplicate tool number - for (var i = 0; i < getNumberOfSections(); ++i) { - var sectioni = getSection(i); - var tooli = sectioni.getTool(); - for (var j = i + 1; j < getNumberOfSections(); ++j) { - var sectionj = getSection(j); - var toolj = sectionj.getTool(); - if (tooli.number == toolj.number) { - if (xyzFormat.areDifferent(tooli.diameter, toolj.diameter) || - xyzFormat.areDifferent(tooli.cornerRadius, toolj.cornerRadius) || - abcFormat.areDifferent(tooli.taperAngle, toolj.taperAngle) || - (tooli.numberOfFlutes != toolj.numberOfFlutes)) { - error( - subst( - localize("Using the same tool number for different cutter geometry for operation '%1' and '%2'."), - sectioni.hasParameter("operation-comment") ? sectioni.getParameter("operation-comment") : ("#" + (i + 1)), - sectionj.hasParameter("operation-comment") ? sectionj.getParameter("operation-comment") : ("#" + (j + 1)) - ) - ); - return; - } - } - } - } - } - - if ((getNumberOfSections() > 0) && (getSection(0).workOffset == 0)) { - for (var i = 0; i < getNumberOfSections(); ++i) { - if (getSection(i).workOffset > 0) { - error(localize("Using multiple work offsets is not possible if the initial work offset is 0.")); - return; - } - } - } - - // absolute coordinates and feed per min - writeBlock(gAbsIncModal.format(90), gFeedModeModal.format(properties.useG95 ? 95 : 94), gPlaneModal.format(17), gFormat.format(49), gFormat.format(40), gFormat.format(80)); - - switch (unit) { - case IN: - writeBlock(gUnitModal.format(20)); - break; - case MM: - writeBlock(gUnitModal.format(21)); - break; - } - - if (properties.useG95 && properties.useParametricFeed) { - error(localize("Parametric feed is not supported when using G95.")); - return; - } - - if (properties.useG95) { - feedFormat = createFormat({decimals:(unit == MM ? 4 : 5), forceDecimal:true}); - feedOutput = createVariable({prefix:"F"}, feedFormat); - } -} - -function onComment(message) { - var comments = String(message).split(";"); - for (comment in comments) { - writeComment(comments[comment]); - } -} - -/** Force output of X, Y, and Z. */ -function forceXYZ() { - xOutput.reset(); - yOutput.reset(); - zOutput.reset(); -} - -/** Force output of A, B, and C. */ -function forceABC() { - aOutput.reset(); - bOutput.reset(); - cOutput.reset(); -} - -function forceFeed() { - currentFeedId = undefined; - feedOutput.reset(); -} - -/** Force output of X, Y, Z, A, B, C, and F on next output. */ -function forceAny() { - forceXYZ(); - forceABC(); - forceFeed(); -} - -var lengthCompensationActive = false; -var retracted = false; // specifies that the tool has been retracted to the safe plane - -/** Disables length compensation if currently active or if forced. */ -function disableLengthCompensation(force) { - if (lengthCompensationActive || force) { - validate(retracted, "Cannot cancel length compensation if the machine is not fully retracted."); - writeBlock(gFormat.format(49)); - lengthCompensationActive = false; - } -} - -var currentSmoothing = false; - -function setSmoothing(mode) { - if (mode == currentSmoothing) { - return false; - } - - // 1) Make sure G49 is called before the execution of G05.1 Q1 Rx - // 2) G05.1 Q1 Rx must be engaged BEFORE G43-Tool Length Comp - // 3) AICC and AIAPC need to be turned on and off for each tool - // 4) AICC and AIAPC does not apply to canned drilling cycles - validate(!lengthCompensationActive, "Length compensation is active while trying to update smoothing."); - - currentSmoothing = mode; - writeBlock(gFormat.format(5.1), mode ? "Q1" : "Q0"); - return true; -} - -function FeedContext(id, description, feed) { - this.id = id; - this.description = description; - this.feed = feed; -} - -function getFeed(f) { - if (properties.useG95) { - return feedOutput.format(f / spindleSpeed); // use feed value - } - if (activeMovements) { - var feedContext = activeMovements[movement]; - if (feedContext != undefined) { - if (!feedFormat.areDifferent(feedContext.feed, f)) { - if (feedContext.id == currentFeedId) { - return ""; // nothing has changed - } - forceFeed(); - currentFeedId = feedContext.id; - return "F#" + (firstFeedParameter + feedContext.id); - } - } - currentFeedId = undefined; // force Q feed next time - } - return feedOutput.format(f); // use feed value -} - -function initializeActiveFeeds() { - activeMovements = new Array(); - var movements = currentSection.getMovements(); - - var id = 0; - var activeFeeds = new Array(); - if (hasParameter("operation:tool_feedCutting")) { - if (movements & ((1 << MOVEMENT_CUTTING) | (1 << MOVEMENT_LINK_TRANSITION) | (1 << MOVEMENT_EXTENDED))) { - var feedContext = new FeedContext(id, localize("Cutting"), getParameter("operation:tool_feedCutting")); - activeFeeds.push(feedContext); - activeMovements[MOVEMENT_CUTTING] = feedContext; - activeMovements[MOVEMENT_LINK_TRANSITION] = feedContext; - activeMovements[MOVEMENT_EXTENDED] = feedContext; - } - ++id; - if (movements & (1 << MOVEMENT_PREDRILL)) { - feedContext = new FeedContext(id, localize("Predrilling"), getParameter("operation:tool_feedCutting")); - activeMovements[MOVEMENT_PREDRILL] = feedContext; - activeFeeds.push(feedContext); - } - ++id; - } - - if (hasParameter("operation:finishFeedrate")) { - if (movements & (1 << MOVEMENT_FINISH_CUTTING)) { - var feedContext = new FeedContext(id, localize("Finish"), getParameter("operation:finishFeedrate")); - activeFeeds.push(feedContext); - activeMovements[MOVEMENT_FINISH_CUTTING] = feedContext; - } - ++id; - } else if (hasParameter("operation:tool_feedCutting")) { - if (movements & (1 << MOVEMENT_FINISH_CUTTING)) { - var feedContext = new FeedContext(id, localize("Finish"), getParameter("operation:tool_feedCutting")); - activeFeeds.push(feedContext); - activeMovements[MOVEMENT_FINISH_CUTTING] = feedContext; - } - ++id; - } - - if (hasParameter("operation:tool_feedEntry")) { - if (movements & (1 << MOVEMENT_LEAD_IN)) { - var feedContext = new FeedContext(id, localize("Entry"), getParameter("operation:tool_feedEntry")); - activeFeeds.push(feedContext); - activeMovements[MOVEMENT_LEAD_IN] = feedContext; - } - ++id; - } - - if (hasParameter("operation:tool_feedExit")) { - if (movements & (1 << MOVEMENT_LEAD_OUT)) { - var feedContext = new FeedContext(id, localize("Exit"), getParameter("operation:tool_feedExit")); - activeFeeds.push(feedContext); - activeMovements[MOVEMENT_LEAD_OUT] = feedContext; - } - ++id; - } - - if (hasParameter("operation:noEngagementFeedrate")) { - if (movements & (1 << MOVEMENT_LINK_DIRECT)) { - var feedContext = new FeedContext(id, localize("Direct"), getParameter("operation:noEngagementFeedrate")); - activeFeeds.push(feedContext); - activeMovements[MOVEMENT_LINK_DIRECT] = feedContext; - } - ++id; - } else if (hasParameter("operation:tool_feedCutting") && - hasParameter("operation:tool_feedEntry") && - hasParameter("operation:tool_feedExit")) { - if (movements & (1 << MOVEMENT_LINK_DIRECT)) { - var feedContext = new FeedContext(id, localize("Direct"), Math.max(getParameter("operation:tool_feedCutting"), getParameter("operation:tool_feedEntry"), getParameter("operation:tool_feedExit"))); - activeFeeds.push(feedContext); - activeMovements[MOVEMENT_LINK_DIRECT] = feedContext; - } - ++id; - } - - if (hasParameter("operation:reducedFeedrate")) { - if (movements & (1 << MOVEMENT_REDUCED)) { - var feedContext = new FeedContext(id, localize("Reduced"), getParameter("operation:reducedFeedrate")); - activeFeeds.push(feedContext); - activeMovements[MOVEMENT_REDUCED] = feedContext; - } - ++id; - } - - if (hasParameter("operation:tool_feedRamp")) { - if (movements & ((1 << MOVEMENT_RAMP) | (1 << MOVEMENT_RAMP_HELIX) | (1 << MOVEMENT_RAMP_PROFILE) | (1 << MOVEMENT_RAMP_ZIG_ZAG))) { - var feedContext = new FeedContext(id, localize("Ramping"), getParameter("operation:tool_feedRamp")); - activeFeeds.push(feedContext); - activeMovements[MOVEMENT_RAMP] = feedContext; - activeMovements[MOVEMENT_RAMP_HELIX] = feedContext; - activeMovements[MOVEMENT_RAMP_PROFILE] = feedContext; - activeMovements[MOVEMENT_RAMP_ZIG_ZAG] = feedContext; - } - ++id; - } - if (hasParameter("operation:tool_feedPlunge")) { - if (movements & (1 << MOVEMENT_PLUNGE)) { - var feedContext = new FeedContext(id, localize("Plunge"), getParameter("operation:tool_feedPlunge")); - activeFeeds.push(feedContext); - activeMovements[MOVEMENT_PLUNGE] = feedContext; - } - ++id; - } - if (true) { // high feed - if (movements & (1 << MOVEMENT_HIGH_FEED)) { - var feedContext = new FeedContext(id, localize("High Feed"), this.highFeedrate); - activeFeeds.push(feedContext); - activeMovements[MOVEMENT_HIGH_FEED] = feedContext; - } - ++id; - } - - for (var i = 0; i < activeFeeds.length; ++i) { - var feedContext = activeFeeds[i]; - writeBlock("#" + (firstFeedParameter + feedContext.id) + "=" + feedFormat.format(feedContext.feed), formatComment(feedContext.description)); - } -} - -var currentWorkPlaneABC = undefined; - -function forceWorkPlane() { - currentWorkPlaneABC = undefined; -} - -function cancelWorkPlane() { - writeBlock(gRotationModal.format(69)); // cancel frame - forceWorkPlane(); -} - -function setWorkPlane(abc) { - if (!forceMultiAxisIndexing && is3D() && !machineConfiguration.isMultiAxisConfiguration()) { - return; // ignore - } - - if (!((currentWorkPlaneABC == undefined) || - abcFormat.areDifferent(abc.x, currentWorkPlaneABC.x) || - abcFormat.areDifferent(abc.y, currentWorkPlaneABC.y) || - abcFormat.areDifferent(abc.z, currentWorkPlaneABC.z))) { - return; // no change - } - - onCommand(COMMAND_UNLOCK_MULTI_AXIS); - if (!retracted) { - writeRetract(Z); - } - - if (useMultiAxisFeatures) { - if (cancelTiltFirst) { - cancelWorkPlane(); - } - if (machineConfiguration.isMultiAxisConfiguration() && useABCPrepositioning) { - var angles = abc.isNonZero() ? getWorkPlaneMachineABC(currentSection.workPlane, false, false) : abc; - gMotionModal.reset(); - writeBlock( - gMotionModal.format(0), - conditional(machineConfiguration.isMachineCoordinate(0), "A" + abcFormat.format(angles.x)), - conditional(machineConfiguration.isMachineCoordinate(1), "B" + abcFormat.format(angles.y)), - conditional(machineConfiguration.isMachineCoordinate(2), "C" + abcFormat.format(angles.z)) - ); - } - if (abc.isNonZero()) { - gRotationModal.reset(); - writeBlock(gRotationModal.format(68.2), "X" + xyzFormat.format(0), "Y" + xyzFormat.format(0), "Z" + xyzFormat.format(0), "I" + abcFormat.format(abc.x), "J" + abcFormat.format(abc.y), "K" + abcFormat.format(abc.z)); // set frame - writeBlock(gFormat.format(53.1)); // turn machine - } else { - if (!cancelTiltFirst) { - cancelWorkPlane(); - } - } - } else { - gMotionModal.reset(); - writeBlock( - gMotionModal.format(0), - conditional(machineConfiguration.isMachineCoordinate(0), "A" + abcFormat.format(abc.x)), - conditional(machineConfiguration.isMachineCoordinate(1), "B" + abcFormat.format(abc.y)), - conditional(machineConfiguration.isMachineCoordinate(2), "C" + abcFormat.format(abc.z)) - ); - } - - onCommand(COMMAND_LOCK_MULTI_AXIS); - - currentWorkPlaneABC = abc; -} - -var closestABC = false; // choose closest machine angles -var currentMachineABC; - -function getWorkPlaneMachineABC(workPlane, _setWorkPlane, rotate) { - var W = workPlane; // map to global frame - - var abc = machineConfiguration.getABC(W); - if (closestABC) { - if (currentMachineABC) { - abc = machineConfiguration.remapToABC(abc, currentMachineABC); - } else { - abc = machineConfiguration.getPreferredABC(abc); - } - } else { - abc = machineConfiguration.getPreferredABC(abc); - } - - try { - abc = machineConfiguration.remapABC(abc); - if (_setWorkPlane) { - currentMachineABC = abc; - } - } catch (e) { - error( - localize("Machine angles not supported") + ":" - + conditional(machineConfiguration.isMachineCoordinate(0), " A" + abcFormat.format(abc.x)) - + conditional(machineConfiguration.isMachineCoordinate(1), " B" + abcFormat.format(abc.y)) - + conditional(machineConfiguration.isMachineCoordinate(2), " C" + abcFormat.format(abc.z)) - ); - } - - var direction = machineConfiguration.getDirection(abc); - if (!isSameDirection(direction, W.forward)) { - error(localize("Orientation not supported.")); - } - - if (!machineConfiguration.isABCSupported(abc)) { - error( - localize("Work plane is not supported") + ":" - + conditional(machineConfiguration.isMachineCoordinate(0), " A" + abcFormat.format(abc.x)) - + conditional(machineConfiguration.isMachineCoordinate(1), " B" + abcFormat.format(abc.y)) - + conditional(machineConfiguration.isMachineCoordinate(2), " C" + abcFormat.format(abc.z)) - ); - } - - if (rotate) { - var tcp = false; - if (tcp) { - setRotation(W); // TCP mode - } else { - var O = machineConfiguration.getOrientation(abc); - var R = machineConfiguration.getRemainingOrientation(abc, W); - setRotation(R); - } - } - - return abc; -} - -function isProbeOperation() { - return hasParameter("operation-strategy") && ((getParameter("operation-strategy") == "probe" || getParameter("operation-strategy") == "probe_geometry")); -} - -var probeOutputWorkOffset = 1; - -function onParameter(name, value) { - if (name == "probe-output-work-offset") { - probeOutputWorkOffset = (value > 0) ? value : 1; - } -} - -function onSection() { - var forceToolAndRetract = optionalSection && !currentSection.isOptional(); - optionalSection = currentSection.isOptional(); - - var insertToolCall = forceToolAndRetract || isFirstSection() || - currentSection.getForceToolChange && currentSection.getForceToolChange() || - (tool.number != getPreviousSection().getTool().number); - - if (insertToolCall) { - forceWorkPlane(); - - writeComment("T" + toolFormat.format(tool.number)); - if (tool.comment) { - writeComment(tool.comment); - } - } - - var makeSubprogram = true; - if (false) { - var subprogramLevel = 3; - makeSubprogram = false; - if (hasParameter("hsmworks:path")) { // autodeskcam - var path = getParameter("hsmworks:path"); // autodeskcam - var sections = path.split("\\"); - var level = sections.length; - makeSubprogram = level >= subprogramLevel; - } - } - - if (makeSubprogram) { // when to do a subprogram - var programId; - try { - programId = getAsInt(programName); - } catch (e) { - error(localize("Program name must be a number.")); - return; - } - - var subprogram = programId + 1 + getCurrentSectionId(); - var oFormat = createFormat({width:(properties.o8 ? 8 : 4), zeropad:true, decimals:0}); - writeBlock(mFormat.format(98), "P" + oFormat.format(subprogram)); // call subprogram - - previousSequenceNumber = sequenceNumber; - sequenceNumber = properties.sequenceNumberStart; - if (properties.useFilesForSubprograms) { - var path = FileSystem.getCombinedPath(FileSystem.getFolderPath(getOutputPath()), subprogram + "." + extension); - redirectToFile(path); - writeln("%"); - } else { - redirectToBuffer(); - writeln(""); // separate subprograms - } - - var oFormat = createFormat({width:(properties.o8 ? 8 : 4), zeropad:true, decimals:0}); - writeln("O" + oFormat.format(subprogram)); - } - - var newWorkOffset = isFirstSection() || - (getPreviousSection().workOffset != currentSection.workOffset); // work offset changes - var newWorkPlane = isFirstSection() || - !isSameDirection(getPreviousSection().getGlobalFinalToolAxis(), currentSection.getGlobalInitialToolAxis()); - var forceSmoothing = properties.useSmoothing && - (hasParameter("operation-strategy") && (getParameter("operation-strategy") == "drill") || - !isFirstSection() && getPreviousSection().hasParameter("operation-strategy") && (getPreviousSection().getParameter("operation-strategy") == "drill")); // force smoothing in case !insertToolCall (2d chamfer) - if (insertToolCall || newWorkOffset || newWorkPlane || forceSmoothing) { - - // stop spindle before retract during tool change - if (insertToolCall && !isFirstSection()) { - onCommand(COMMAND_STOP_SPINDLE); - } - - // retract to safe plane - retracted = true; - writeBlock(gFormat.format(28), gAbsIncModal.format(91), "Z" + xyzFormat.format(0)); // retract - writeBlock(gAbsIncModal.format(90)); - forceXYZ(); - if ((insertToolCall && !isFirstSection()) || forceSmoothing) { - disableLengthCompensation(); - setSmoothing(false); - } - } - - writeln(""); - - if (hasParameter("operation-comment")) { - var comment = getParameter("operation-comment"); - if (comment) { - writeComment(comment); - } - } - - if (properties.showNotes && hasParameter("notes")) { - var notes = getParameter("notes"); - if (notes) { - var lines = String(notes).split("\n"); - var r1 = new RegExp("^[\\s]+", "g"); - var r2 = new RegExp("[\\s]+$", "g"); - for (line in lines) { - var comment = lines[line].replace(r1, "").replace(r2, ""); - if (comment) { - writeComment(comment); - } - } - } - } - - if (insertToolCall) { - forceWorkPlane(); - - retracted = true; - onCommand(COMMAND_COOLANT_OFF); - - if (!isFirstSection() && properties.optionalStop) { - onCommand(COMMAND_OPTIONAL_STOP); - } - - if (tool.number > 99) { - warning(localize("Tool number exceeds maximum value.")); - } - - disableLengthCompensation(); - writeBlock("T" + toolFormat.format(tool.number), mFormat.format(6)); - if (tool.comment) { - writeComment(tool.comment); - } - var showToolZMin = false; - if (showToolZMin) { - if (is3D()) { - var numberOfSections = getNumberOfSections(); - var zRange = currentSection.getGlobalZRange(); - var number = tool.number; - for (var i = currentSection.getId() + 1; i < numberOfSections; ++i) { - var section = getSection(i); - if (section.getTool().number != number) { - break; - } - zRange.expandToRange(section.getGlobalZRange()); - } - writeComment(localize("ZMIN") + "=" + zRange.getMinimum()); - } - } - - if (properties.preloadTool) { - var nextTool = getNextTool(tool.number); - if (nextTool) { - writeBlock("T" + toolFormat.format(nextTool.number)); - } else { - // preload first tool - var section = getSection(0); - var firstToolNumber = section.getTool().number; - if (tool.number != firstToolNumber) { - writeBlock("T" + toolFormat.format(firstToolNumber)); - } - } - } - } else { - writeComment("T" + toolFormat.format(tool.number)); - } - - if (!isProbeOperation() && - (insertToolCall || - forceSpindleSpeed || - isFirstSection() || - (rpmFormat.areDifferent(spindleSpeed, sOutput.getCurrent())) || - (tool.clockwise != getPreviousSection().getTool().clockwise))) { - forceSpindleSpeed = false; - - if (spindleSpeed < 1) { - error(localize("Spindle speed out of range.")); - return; - } - if (spindleSpeed > 99999) { - warning(localize("Spindle speed exceeds maximum value.")); - } - var tapping = hasParameter("operation:cycleType") && - ((getParameter("operation:cycleType") == "tapping") || - (getParameter("operation:cycleType") == "right-tapping") || - (getParameter("operation:cycleType") == "left-tapping") || - (getParameter("operation:cycleType") == "tapping-with-chip-breaking")); - if (!tapping || (tapping && !(properties.useRigidTapping == "without"))) { - writeBlock( - sOutput.format(spindleSpeed), mFormat.format(tool.clockwise ? 3 : 4) - ); - } - - onCommand(COMMAND_START_CHIP_TRANSPORT); - if (forceMultiAxisIndexing || !is3D() || machineConfiguration.isMultiAxisConfiguration()) { - // writeBlock(mFormat.format(xxx)); // shortest path traverse - } - } - - // wcs - if (insertToolCall) { // force work offset when changing tool - currentWorkOffset = undefined; - } - var workOffset = currentSection.workOffset; - if (workOffset == 0) { - warningOnce(localize("Work offset has not been specified. Using G54 as WCS."), WARNING_WORK_OFFSET); - workOffset = 1; - } - if (workOffset != currentWorkOffset) { - if (cancelTiltFirst) { - cancelWorkPlane(); - } - forceWorkPlane(); - } - if (workOffset > 0) { - if (workOffset > 6) { - var p = workOffset - 6; // 1->... - if (p > 300) { - error(localize("Work offset out of range.")); - return; - } else { - if (workOffset != currentWorkOffset) { - writeBlock(gFormat.format(54.1), "P" + p); // G54.1P - currentWorkOffset = workOffset; - } - } - } else { - if (workOffset != currentWorkOffset) { - writeBlock(gFormat.format(53 + workOffset)); // G54->G59 - currentWorkOffset = workOffset; - } - } - } - - forceXYZ(); - - if (forceMultiAxisIndexing || !is3D() || machineConfiguration.isMultiAxisConfiguration()) { // use 5-axis indexing for multi-axis mode - // set working plane after datum shift - - if (currentSection.isMultiAxis()) { - forceWorkPlane(); - cancelTransformation(); - } else { - var abc = new Vector(0, 0, 0); - if (useMultiAxisFeatures) { - var euler = currentSection.workPlane.getEuler2(EULER_ZXZ_R); - abc = new Vector(euler.x, euler.y, euler.z); - cancelTransformation(); - } else { - abc = getWorkPlaneMachineABC(currentSection.workPlane, true, true); - } - setWorkPlane(abc); - } - } else { // pure 3D - var remaining = currentSection.workPlane; - if (!isSameDirection(remaining.forward, new Vector(0, 0, 1))) { - error(localize("Tool orientation is not supported.")); - return; - } - setRotation(remaining); - } - - // set coolant after we have positioned at Z - setCoolant(tool.coolant); - - if (properties.useSmoothing) { - if (hasParameter("operation-strategy") && (getParameter("operation-strategy") != "drill")) { - if (setSmoothing(true)) { - // we force G43 using lengthCompensationActive - } - } else { - if (setSmoothing(false)) { - // we force G43 using lengthCompensationActive - } - } - } - - forceAny(); - gMotionModal.reset(); - - var initialPosition = getFramePosition(currentSection.getInitialPosition()); - if (!retracted && !insertToolCall) { - if (getCurrentPosition().z < initialPosition.z) { - writeBlock(gMotionModal.format(0), zOutput.format(initialPosition.z)); - } - } - - if (insertToolCall || !lengthCompensationActive || retracted || (!isFirstSection() && getPreviousSection().isMultiAxis())) { - var lengthOffset = tool.lengthOffset; - if (lengthOffset > 99) { - error(localize("Length offset out of range.")); - return; - } - - gMotionModal.reset(); - writeBlock(gPlaneModal.format(17)); - - // cancel compensation prior to enabling it, required when switching G43/G43.4 modes - disableLengthCompensation(false); - - // assumes a Head configuration uses TCP on a Fanuc controller - var offsetCode = 43; - if (currentSection.isMultiAxis()) { - if (machineConfiguration.isMultiAxisConfiguration() && (currentSection.getOptimizedTCPMode() == 0)) { - offsetCode = 43.4; - } else if (!machineConfiguration.isMultiAxisConfiguration()) { - offsetCode = 43.5; - } - } - - if (!machineConfiguration.isHeadConfiguration()) { - writeBlock( - gAbsIncModal.format(90), - gMotionModal.format(0), xOutput.format(initialPosition.x), yOutput.format(initialPosition.y) - ); - writeBlock( - gMotionModal.format(0), - gFormat.format(offsetCode), - zOutput.format(initialPosition.z), - hFormat.format(lengthOffset) - ); - lengthCompensationActive = true; - } else { - writeBlock( - gAbsIncModal.format(90), - gMotionModal.format(0), - gFormat.format(offsetCode), - xOutput.format(initialPosition.x), - yOutput.format(initialPosition.y), - zOutput.format(initialPosition.z), hFormat.format(lengthOffset) - ); - lengthCompensationActive = true; - } - - gMotionModal.reset(); - } else { - writeBlock( - gAbsIncModal.format(90), - gMotionModal.format(0), - xOutput.format(initialPosition.x), - yOutput.format(initialPosition.y) - ); - } - - validate(lengthCompensationActive, "Length compensation is not active."); - - if (properties.useParametricFeed && - hasParameter("operation-strategy") && - (getParameter("operation-strategy") != "drill") && // legacy - !(currentSection.hasAnyCycle && currentSection.hasAnyCycle())) { - if (!insertToolCall && - activeMovements && - (getCurrentSectionId() > 0) && - ((getPreviousSection().getPatternId() == currentSection.getPatternId()) && (currentSection.getPatternId() != 0))) { - // use the current feeds - } else { - initializeActiveFeeds(); - } - } else { - activeMovements = undefined; - } - - if (isProbeOperation()) { - if (g68RotationMode != 0) { - error(localize("You cannot probe while G68 Rotation is in effect.")); - return; - } - angularProbingMode = getAngularProbingMode(); - writeBlock(gFormat.format(65), "P" + 9832); // spin the probe on - } - - retracted = false; -} - -function onDwell(seconds) { - if (seconds > 99999.999) { - warning(localize("Dwelling time is out of range.")); - } - milliseconds = clamp(1, seconds * 1000, 99999999); - writeBlock(gFeedModeModal.format(94), gFormat.format(4), "P" + milliFormat.format(milliseconds)); - writeBlock(gFeedModeModal.format(properties.useG95 ? 95 : 94)); // back to G95 -} - -function onSpindleSpeed(spindleSpeed) { - writeBlock(sOutput.format(spindleSpeed)); -} - -function onCycle() { - writeBlock(gPlaneModal.format(17)); -} - -function getCommonCycle(x, y, z, r) { - forceXYZ(); // force xyz on first drill hole of any cycle - return [xOutput.format(x), yOutput.format(y), - zOutput.format(z), - "R" + xyzFormat.format(r)]; -} - -/** Convert approach to sign. */ -function approach(value) { - validate((value == "positive") || (value == "negative"), "Invalid approach."); - return (value == "positive") ? 1 : -1; -} - -/** - Determine if angular probing is supported -*/ -function getAngularProbingMode() { - if (machineConfiguration.isMultiAxisConfiguration()) { - if (machineConfiguration.isMachineCoordinate(2)) { - return ANGLE_PROBE_USE_CAXIS; - } else { - return ANGLE_PROBE_NOT_SUPPORTED; - } - } else { - return ANGLE_PROBE_USE_ROTATION; - } -} - -/** - Output rotation offset based on angular probing cycle. -*/ -function setProbingAngle() { - if ((g68RotationMode == 1) || (g68RotationMode == 2)) { // Rotate coordinate system for Angle Probing - if (!properties.useG54x4) { - gRotationModal.reset(); - gAbsIncModal.reset(); - writeBlock( - gRotationModal.format(68), gAbsIncModal.format(90), - (g68RotationMode == 1) ? "X0" : "X[#135]", - (g68RotationMode == 1) ? "Y0" : "Y[#136]", - "Z0", "I0.0", "J0.0", "K1.0", "R[#139]" - ); - g68RotationMode = 3; - } else if (angularProbingMode != ANGLE_PROBE_NOT_SUPPORTED) { - writeBlock("#26010=#135"); - writeBlock("#26011=#136"); - writeBlock("#26012=#137"); - writeBlock("#26015=#139"); - writeBlock(gFormat.format(54.4), "P1"); - g68RotationMode = 0; - } else { - error(localize("Angular probing is not supported for this machine configuration.")); - return; - } - } -} - -function protectedProbeMove(_cycle, x, y, z) { - var _x = xOutput.format(x); - var _y = yOutput.format(y); - var _z = zOutput.format(z); - if (_z && z >= getCurrentPosition().z) { - writeBlock(gFormat.format(65), "P" + 9810, _z, getFeed(cycle.feedrate)); // protected positioning move - } - if (_x || _y) { - writeBlock(gFormat.format(65), "P" + 9810, _x, _y, getFeed(highFeedrate)); // protected positioning move - } - if (_z && z < getCurrentPosition().z) { - writeBlock(gFormat.format(65), "P" + 9810, _z, getFeed(cycle.feedrate)); // protected positioning move - } -} - -function onCyclePoint(x, y, z) { - if (!isSameDirection(getRotation().forward, new Vector(0, 0, 1))) { - expandCyclePoint(x, y, z); - return; - } - var probeWorkOffsetCode; - if (isProbeOperation()) { - protectedProbeMove(cycle, x, y, z); - var workOffset = probeOutputWorkOffset ? probeOutputWorkOffset : currentWorkOffset; - if (workOffset > 99) { - error(localize("Work offset is out of range.")); - return; - } else if (workOffset > 6) { - probeWorkOffsetCode = probe100Format.format(workOffset - 6 + 100); - } else { - probeWorkOffsetCode = workOffset + "."; // G54->G59 - } - } - - if (isFirstCyclePoint() || isProbeOperation()) { - if (!isProbeOperation()) { - // return to initial Z which is clearance plane and set absolute mode - repositionToCycleClearance(cycle, x, y, z); - } - - var F = cycle.feedrate; - if (properties.useG95) { - F /= spindleSpeed; - } - var P = !cycle.dwell ? 0 : clamp(1, cycle.dwell * 1000, 99999999); // in milliseconds - - switch (cycleType) { - case "drilling": - writeBlock( - gRetractModal.format(98), gAbsIncModal.format(90), gCycleModal.format(81), - getCommonCycle(x, y, z, cycle.retract), - feedOutput.format(F) - ); - break; - case "counter-boring": - if (P > 0) { - writeBlock( - gRetractModal.format(98), gAbsIncModal.format(90), gCycleModal.format(82), - getCommonCycle(x, y, z, cycle.retract), - "P" + milliFormat.format(P), - feedOutput.format(F) - ); - } else { - writeBlock( - gRetractModal.format(98), gAbsIncModal.format(90), gCycleModal.format(81), - getCommonCycle(x, y, z, cycle.retract), - feedOutput.format(F) - ); - } - break; - case "chip-breaking": - if ((cycle.accumulatedDepth < cycle.depth) || (P > 0)) { - expandCyclePoint(x, y, z); - } else { - writeBlock( - gRetractModal.format(98), gAbsIncModal.format(90), gCycleModal.format(73), - getCommonCycle(x, y, z, cycle.retract), - peckOutput.format(cycle.incrementalDepth), - feedOutput.format(F) - ); - } - break; - case "deep-drilling": - if (P > 0) { - expandCyclePoint(x, y, z); - } else { - writeBlock( - gRetractModal.format(98), gAbsIncModal.format(90), gCycleModal.format(83), - getCommonCycle(x, y, z, cycle.retract), - peckOutput.format(cycle.incrementalDepth), - // conditional(P > 0, "P" + milliFormat.format(P)), - feedOutput.format(F) - ); - } - break; - case "tapping": - if (properties.useRigidTapping != "no") { - writeBlock(mFormat.format(29), sOutput.format(spindleSpeed)); - } - if (properties.usePitchForTapping) { - writeBlock( - gRetractModal.format(98), gFeedModeModal.format(95), gAbsIncModal.format(90), gCycleModal.format((tool.type == TOOL_TAP_LEFT_HAND) ? 74 : 84), - getCommonCycle(x, y, z, cycle.retract), - "P" + milliFormat.format(P), - pitchOutput.format(tool.threadPitch) - ); - forceFeed(); - } else { - var tappingFPM = tool.getThreadPitch() * rpmFormat.getResultingValue(spindleSpeed); - F = (properties.useG95 ? tool.getThreadPitch() : tappingFPM); - writeBlock( - gRetractModal.format(98), gAbsIncModal.format(90), gCycleModal.format((tool.type == TOOL_TAP_LEFT_HAND) ? 74 : 84), - getCommonCycle(x, y, z, cycle.retract), - "P" + milliFormat.format(P), - feedOutput.format(F) - ); - } - break; - case "left-tapping": - if (properties.useRigidTapping != "no") { - writeBlock(mFormat.format(29), sOutput.format(spindleSpeed)); - } - if (properties.usePitchForTapping) { - writeBlock( - gRetractModal.format(98), gFeedModeModal.format(95), gAbsIncModal.format(90), gCycleModal.format(74), - getCommonCycle(x, y, z, cycle.retract), - "P" + milliFormat.format(P), - pitchOutput.format(tool.threadPitch) - ); - forceFeed(); - } else { - var tappingFPM = tool.getThreadPitch() * rpmFormat.getResultingValue(spindleSpeed); - F = (properties.useG95 ? tool.getThreadPitch() : tappingFPM); - writeBlock( - gRetractModal.format(98), gAbsIncModal.format(90), gCycleModal.format(74), - getCommonCycle(x, y, z, cycle.retract), - "P" + milliFormat.format(P), - feedOutput.format(F) - ); - } - break; - case "right-tapping": - if (properties.useRigidTapping != "no") { - writeBlock(mFormat.format(29), sOutput.format(spindleSpeed)); - } - if (properties.usePitchForTapping) { - writeBlock( - gRetractModal.format(98), gFeedModeModal.format(95), gAbsIncModal.format(90), gCycleModal.format(84), - getCommonCycle(x, y, z, cycle.retract), - "P" + milliFormat.format(P), - pitchOutput.format(tool.threadPitch) - ); - forceFeed(); - } else { - var tappingFPM = tool.getThreadPitch() * rpmFormat.getResultingValue(spindleSpeed); - F = (properties.useG95 ? tool.getThreadPitch() : tappingFPM); - writeBlock( - gRetractModal.format(98), gAbsIncModal.format(90), gCycleModal.format(84), - getCommonCycle(x, y, z, cycle.retract), - "P" + milliFormat.format(P), - feedOutput.format(F) - ); - } - break; - case "tapping-with-chip-breaking": - case "left-tapping-with-chip-breaking": - case "right-tapping-with-chip-breaking": - if (cycle.accumulatedDepth < cycle.depth) { - error(localize("Accumulated pecking depth is not supported for tapping cycles with chip breaking.")); - return; - } else { - if (properties.useRigidTapping != "no") { - writeBlock(mFormat.format(29), sOutput.format(spindleSpeed)); - } - if (properties.usePitchForTapping) { - writeBlock( - gRetractModal.format(98), gFeedModeModal.format(95), gAbsIncModal.format(90), gCycleModal.format((tool.type == TOOL_TAP_LEFT_HAND ? 74 : 84)), - getCommonCycle(x, y, z, cycle.retract), - "P" + milliFormat.format(P), - peckOutput.format(cycle.incrementalDepth), - pitchOutput.format(tool.threadPitch) - ); - forceFeed(); - } else { - var tappingFPM = tool.getThreadPitch() * rpmFormat.getResultingValue(spindleSpeed); - F = (properties.useG95 ? tool.getThreadPitch() : tappingFPM); - writeBlock( - gRetractModal.format(98), gAbsIncModal.format(90), gCycleModal.format((tool.type == TOOL_TAP_LEFT_HAND ? 74 : 84)), - getCommonCycle(x, y, z, cycle.retract), - "P" + milliFormat.format(P), - peckOutput.format(cycle.incrementalDepth), - feedOutput.format(F) - ); - } - } - break; - case "fine-boring": - writeBlock( - gRetractModal.format(98), gAbsIncModal.format(90), gCycleModal.format(76), - getCommonCycle(x, y, z, cycle.retract), - "P" + milliFormat.format(P), // not optional - "Q" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.shift), - feedOutput.format(F) - ); - break; - case "back-boring": - var dx = (gPlaneModal.getCurrent() == 19) ? cycle.backBoreDistance : 0; - var dy = (gPlaneModal.getCurrent() == 18) ? cycle.backBoreDistance : 0; - var dz = (gPlaneModal.getCurrent() == 17) ? cycle.backBoreDistance : 0; - writeBlock( - gRetractModal.format(98), gAbsIncModal.format(90), gCycleModal.format(87), - getCommonCycle(x - dx, y - dy, z - dz, cycle.bottom), - "Q" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.shift), - "P" + milliFormat.format(P), // not optional - feedOutput.format(F) - ); - break; - case "reaming": - if (P > 0) { - writeBlock( - gRetractModal.format(98), gAbsIncModal.format(90), gCycleModal.format(89), - getCommonCycle(x, y, z, cycle.retract), - "P" + milliFormat.format(P), - feedOutput.format(F) - ); - } else { - writeBlock( - gRetractModal.format(98), gAbsIncModal.format(90), gCycleModal.format(85), - getCommonCycle(x, y, z, cycle.retract), - feedOutput.format(F) - ); - } - break; - case "stop-boring": - if (P > 0) { - expandCyclePoint(x, y, z); - } else { - writeBlock( - gRetractModal.format(98), gAbsIncModal.format(90), gCycleModal.format(86), - getCommonCycle(x, y, z, cycle.retract), - feedOutput.format(F) - ); - } - break; - case "manual-boring": - writeBlock( - gRetractModal.format(98), gAbsIncModal.format(90), gCycleModal.format(88), - getCommonCycle(x, y, z, cycle.retract), - "P" + milliFormat.format(P), // not optional - feedOutput.format(F) - ); - break; - case "boring": - if (P > 0) { - writeBlock( - gRetractModal.format(98), gAbsIncModal.format(90), gCycleModal.format(89), - getCommonCycle(x, y, z, cycle.retract), - "P" + milliFormat.format(P), // not optional - feedOutput.format(F) - ); - } else { - writeBlock( - gRetractModal.format(98), gAbsIncModal.format(90), gCycleModal.format(85), - getCommonCycle(x, y, z, cycle.retract), - feedOutput.format(F) - ); - } - break; - - case "probing-x": - protectedProbeMove(cycle, x, y, z - cycle.depth); - writeBlock( - gFormat.format(65), "P" + 9811, - "X" + xyzFormat.format(x + approach(cycle.approach1) * (cycle.probeClearance + tool.diameter / 2)), - "Q" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeOvertravel), - getProbingArguments(cycle, probeWorkOffsetCode) - ); - break; - case "probing-y": - protectedProbeMove(cycle, x, y, z - cycle.depth); - writeBlock( - gFormat.format(65), "P" + 9811, - "Y" + xyzFormat.format(y + approach(cycle.approach1) * (cycle.probeClearance + tool.diameter / 2)), - "Q" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeOvertravel), - getProbingArguments(cycle, probeWorkOffsetCode) - ); - break; - case "probing-z": - protectedProbeMove(cycle, x, y, Math.min(z - cycle.depth + cycle.probeClearance, cycle.retract)); - writeBlock( - gFormat.format(65), "P" + 9811, - "Z" + xyzFormat.format(z - cycle.depth), - "Q" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeOvertravel), - getProbingArguments(cycle, probeWorkOffsetCode) - ); - break; - case "probing-x-wall": - protectedProbeMove(cycle, x, y, z); - writeBlock( - gFormat.format(65), "P" + 9812, - "X" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.width1), - zOutput.format(z - cycle.depth), - "Q" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeOvertravel), - "R" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeClearance), - getProbingArguments(cycle, probeWorkOffsetCode) - ); - break; - case "probing-y-wall": - protectedProbeMove(cycle, x, y, z); - writeBlock( - gFormat.format(65), "P" + 9812, - "Y" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.width1), - zOutput.format(z - cycle.depth), - "Q" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeOvertravel), - "R" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeClearance), - getProbingArguments(cycle, probeWorkOffsetCode) - ); - break; - case "probing-x-channel": - protectedProbeMove(cycle, x, y, z - cycle.depth); - writeBlock( - gFormat.format(65), "P" + 9812, - "X" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.width1), - "Q" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeOvertravel), - // not required "R" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeClearance), - getProbingArguments(cycle, probeWorkOffsetCode) - ); - break; - case "probing-x-channel-with-island": - protectedProbeMove(cycle, x, y, z); - writeBlock( - gFormat.format(65), "P" + 9812, - "X" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.width1), - zOutput.format(z - cycle.depth), - "Q" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeOvertravel), - "R" + xyzFormat.format(-cycle.probeClearance), - getProbingArguments(cycle, probeWorkOffsetCode) - ); - break; - case "probing-y-channel": - protectedProbeMove(cycle, x, y, z - cycle.depth); - writeBlock( - gFormat.format(65), "P" + 9812, - "Y" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.width1), - "Q" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeOvertravel), - // not required "R" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeClearance), - getProbingArguments(cycle, probeWorkOffsetCode) - ); - break; - case "probing-y-channel-with-island": - protectedProbeMove(cycle, x, y, z); - writeBlock( - gFormat.format(65), "P" + 9812, - "Y" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.width1), - zOutput.format(z - cycle.depth), - "Q" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeOvertravel), - "R" + xyzFormat.format(-cycle.probeClearance), - getProbingArguments(cycle, probeWorkOffsetCode) - ); - break; - case "probing-xy-circular-boss": - protectedProbeMove(cycle, x, y, z); - writeBlock( - gFormat.format(65), "P" + 9814, - "D" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.width1), - "Z" + xyzFormat.format(z - cycle.depth), - "Q" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeOvertravel), - "R" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeClearance), - getProbingArguments(cycle, probeWorkOffsetCode) - ); - break; - case "probing-xy-circular-hole": - protectedProbeMove(cycle, x, y, z - cycle.depth); - writeBlock( - gFormat.format(65), "P" + 9814, - "D" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.width1), - "Q" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeOvertravel), - // not required "R" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeClearance), - getProbingArguments(cycle, probeWorkOffsetCode) - ); - break; - case "probing-xy-circular-hole-with-island": - protectedProbeMove(cycle, x, y, z); - writeBlock( - gFormat.format(65), "P" + 9814, - "Z" + xyzFormat.format(z - cycle.depth), - "D" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.width1), - "Q" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeOvertravel), - "R" + xyzFormat.format(-cycle.probeClearance), - getProbingArguments(cycle, probeWorkOffsetCode) - ); - break; - case "probing-xy-rectangular-hole": - protectedProbeMove(cycle, x, y, z - cycle.depth); - writeBlock( - gFormat.format(65), "P" + 9812, - "X" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.width1), - "Q" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeOvertravel), - // not required "R" + xyzFormat.format(-cycle.probeClearance), - getProbingArguments(cycle, probeWorkOffsetCode) - ); - writeBlock( - gFormat.format(65), "P" + 9812, - "Y" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.width2), - "Q" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeOvertravel), - // not required "R" + xyzFormat.format(-cycle.probeClearance), - getProbingArguments(cycle, probeWorkOffsetCode) - ); - break; - case "probing-xy-rectangular-boss": - protectedProbeMove(cycle, x, y, z); - writeBlock( - gFormat.format(65), "P" + 9812, - "Z" + xyzFormat.format(z - cycle.depth), - "X" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.width1), - "R" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeClearance), - "Q" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeOvertravel), - getProbingArguments(cycle, probeWorkOffsetCode) - ); - writeBlock( - gFormat.format(65), "P" + 9812, - "Z" + xyzFormat.format(z - cycle.depth), - "Y" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.width2), - "R" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeClearance), - "Q" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeOvertravel), - getProbingArguments(cycle, probeWorkOffsetCode) - ); - break; - case "probing-xy-rectangular-hole-with-island": - protectedProbeMove(cycle, x, y, z); - writeBlock( - gFormat.format(65), "P" + 9812, - "Z" + xyzFormat.format(z - cycle.depth), - "X" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.width1), - "Q" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeOvertravel), - "R" + xyzFormat.format(-cycle.probeClearance), - getProbingArguments(cycle, probeWorkOffsetCode) - ); - writeBlock( - gFormat.format(65), "P" + 9812, - "Z" + xyzFormat.format(z - cycle.depth), - "Y" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.width2), - "Q" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeOvertravel), - "R" + xyzFormat.format(-cycle.probeClearance), - getProbingArguments(cycle, probeWorkOffsetCode) - ); - break; - - case "probing-xy-inner-corner": - var cornerX = x + approach(cycle.approach1) * (cycle.probeClearance + tool.diameter / 2); - var cornerY = y + approach(cycle.approach2) * (cycle.probeClearance + tool.diameter / 2); - var cornerI = 0; - var cornerJ = 0; - if (cycle.probeSpacing !== undefined) { - cornerI = cycle.probeSpacing; - cornerJ = cycle.probeSpacing; - } - if ((cornerI != 0) && (cornerJ != 0)) { - g68RotationMode = 2; - } - protectedProbeMove(cycle, x, y, z - cycle.depth); - writeBlock( - gFormat.format(65), "P" + 9815, xOutput.format(cornerX), yOutput.format(cornerY), - conditional(cornerI != 0, "I" + xyzFormat.format(cornerI)), - conditional(cornerJ != 0, "J" + xyzFormat.format(cornerJ)), - "Q" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeOvertravel), - conditional((g68RotationMode == 0) || (angularProbingMode == ANGLE_PROBE_USE_CAXIS), getProbingArguments(cycle, probeWorkOffsetCode)) - ); - break; - case "probing-xy-outer-corner": - var cornerX = x + approach(cycle.approach1) * (cycle.probeClearance + tool.diameter / 2); - var cornerY = y + approach(cycle.approach2) * (cycle.probeClearance + tool.diameter / 2); - var cornerI = 0; - var cornerJ = 0; - if (cycle.probeSpacing !== undefined) { - cornerI = cycle.probeSpacing; - cornerJ = cycle.probeSpacing; - } - if ((cornerI != 0) && (cornerJ != 0)) { - g68RotationMode = 2; - } - protectedProbeMove(cycle, x, y, z - cycle.depth); - writeBlock( - gFormat.format(65), "P" + 9816, xOutput.format(cornerX), yOutput.format(cornerY), - conditional(cornerI != 0, "I" + xyzFormat.format(cornerI)), - conditional(cornerJ != 0, "J" + xyzFormat.format(cornerJ)), - "Q" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeOvertravel), - conditional((g68RotationMode == 0) || (angularProbingMode == ANGLE_PROBE_USE_CAXIS), getProbingArguments(cycle, probeWorkOffsetCode)) - ); - break; - case "probing-x-plane-angle": - protectedProbeMove(cycle, x, y, z - cycle.depth); - writeBlock( - gFormat.format(65), "P" + 9843, - "X" + xyzFormat.format(x + approach(cycle.approach1) * (cycle.probeClearance + tool.diameter / 2)), - "D" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeSpacing), - "Q" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeOvertravel), - getProbingArguments(cycle, false) - ); - g68RotationMode = 1; - break; - case "probing-y-plane-angle": - protectedProbeMove(cycle, x, y, z - cycle.depth); - writeBlock( - gFormat.format(65), "P" + 9843, - "Y" + xyzFormat.format(y + approach(cycle.approach1) * (cycle.probeClearance + tool.diameter / 2)), - "D" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeSpacing), - "Q" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeOvertravel), - getProbingArguments(cycle, false) - ); - g68RotationMode = 1; - break; - default: - expandCyclePoint(x, y, z); - } - } else { - if (cycleExpanded) { - expandCyclePoint(x, y, z); - } else { - writeBlock(xOutput.format(x), yOutput.format(y)); - } - } -} - -function getProbingArguments(cycle, probeWorkOffsetCode) { - var probeWCS = hasParameter("operation-strategy") && (getParameter("operation-strategy") == "probe"); - return [ - (cycle.angleAskewAction == "stop-message" ? "B" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.toleranceAngle ? cycle.toleranceAngle : 0) : undefined), - ((cycle.updateToolWear && cycle.toolWearErrorCorrection < 100) ? "F" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.toolWearErrorCorrection ? cycle.toolWearErrorCorrection / 100 : 100) : undefined), - (cycle.wrongSizeAction == "stop-message" ? "H" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.toleranceSize ? cycle.toleranceSize : 0) : undefined), - (cycle.outOfPositionAction == "stop-message" ? "M" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.tolerancePosition ? cycle.tolerancePosition : 0) : undefined), - ((cycle.updateToolWear && cycleType == "probing-z") ? "T" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.toolLengthOffset) : undefined), - ((cycle.updateToolWear && cycleType !== "probing-z") ? "T" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.toolDiameterOffset) : undefined), - (cycle.updateToolWear ? "V" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.toolWearUpdateThreshold ? cycle.toolWearUpdateThreshold : 0) : undefined), - (cycle.printResults ? "W" + xyzFormat.format(1 + cycle.incrementComponent) : undefined), // 1 for advance feature, 2 for reset feature count and advance component number. first reported result in a program should use W2. - conditional(probeWorkOffsetCode && probeWCS, "S" + probeWorkOffsetCode) - ]; -} - -function onCycleEnd() { - if (isProbeOperation()) { - zOutput.reset(); - gMotionModal.reset(); - writeBlock(gFormat.format(65), "P" + 9810, zOutput.format(cycle.retract)); // protected retract move - } else if (!cycleExpanded) { - writeBlock(conditional(!properties.useG95, gFeedModeModal.format(94)), gCycleModal.format(80)); - zOutput.reset(); - } -} - -var pendingRadiusCompensation = -1; - -function onRadiusCompensation() { - pendingRadiusCompensation = radiusCompensation; -} - -function onRapid(_x, _y, _z) { - var x = xOutput.format(_x); - var y = yOutput.format(_y); - var z = zOutput.format(_z); - if (x || y || z) { - if (pendingRadiusCompensation >= 0) { - error(localize("Radius compensation mode cannot be changed at rapid traversal.")); - return; - } - writeBlock(gMotionModal.format(0), x, y, z); - forceFeed(); - } -} - -function onLinear(_x, _y, _z, feed) { - var x = xOutput.format(_x); - var y = yOutput.format(_y); - var z = zOutput.format(_z); - var f = getFeed(feed); - if (x || y || z) { - if (pendingRadiusCompensation >= 0) { - pendingRadiusCompensation = -1; - var d = tool.diameterOffset; - if (d > 99) { - warning(localize("The diameter offset exceeds the maximum value.")); - } - writeBlock(gPlaneModal.format(17)); - switch (radiusCompensation) { - case RADIUS_COMPENSATION_LEFT: - dOutput.reset(); - writeBlock(gMotionModal.format(1), gFormat.format(41), x, y, z, dOutput.format(d), f); - break; - case RADIUS_COMPENSATION_RIGHT: - dOutput.reset(); - writeBlock(gMotionModal.format(1), gFormat.format(42), x, y, z, dOutput.format(d), f); - break; - default: - writeBlock(gMotionModal.format(1), gFormat.format(40), x, y, z, f); - } - } else { - writeBlock(gMotionModal.format(1), x, y, z, f); - } - } else if (f) { - if (getNextRecord().isMotion()) { // try not to output feed without motion - forceFeed(); // force feed on next line - } else { - writeBlock(gMotionModal.format(1), f); - } - } -} - -function onRapid5D(_x, _y, _z, _a, _b, _c) { - if (pendingRadiusCompensation >= 0) { - error(localize("Radius compensation mode cannot be changed at rapid traversal.")); - return; - } - if (currentSection.isOptimizedForMachine()) { - var x = xOutput.format(_x); - var y = yOutput.format(_y); - var z = zOutput.format(_z); - var a = aOutput.format(_a); - var b = bOutput.format(_b); - var c = cOutput.format(_c); - writeBlock(gMotionModal.format(0), x, y, z, a, b, c); - } else { - forceXYZ(); - var x = xOutput.format(_x); - var y = yOutput.format(_y); - var z = zOutput.format(_z); - var i = ijkFormat.format(_a); - var j = ijkFormat.format(_b); - var k = ijkFormat.format(_c); - writeBlock(gMotionModal.format(0), x, y, z, "I" + i, "J" + j, "K" + k); - } - forceFeed(); -} - -function onLinear5D(_x, _y, _z, _a, _b, _c, feed) { - if (pendingRadiusCompensation >= 0) { - error(localize("Radius compensation cannot be activated/deactivated for 5-axis move.")); - return; - } - - if (currentSection.isOptimizedForMachine()) { - var x = xOutput.format(_x); - var y = yOutput.format(_y); - var z = zOutput.format(_z); - var a = aOutput.format(_a); - var b = bOutput.format(_b); - var c = cOutput.format(_c); - var f = getFeed(feed); - if (x || y || z || a || b || c) { - writeBlock(gMotionModal.format(1), x, y, z, a, b, c, f); - } else if (f) { - if (getNextRecord().isMotion()) { // try not to output feed without motion - forceFeed(); // force feed on next line - } else { - writeBlock(gMotionModal.format(1), f); - } - } - } else { - forceXYZ(); - var x = xOutput.format(_x); - var y = yOutput.format(_y); - var z = zOutput.format(_z); - var i = ijkFormat.format(_a); - var j = ijkFormat.format(_b); - var k = ijkFormat.format(_c); - var f = getFeed(feed); - if (x || y || z || i || j || k) { - writeBlock(gMotionModal.format(1), x, y, z, "I" + i, "J" + j, "K" + k, f); - } else if (f) { - if (getNextRecord().isMotion()) { // try not to output feed without motion - forceFeed(); // force feed on next line - } else { - writeBlock(gMotionModal.format(1), f); - } - } - } -} - -function onCircular(clockwise, cx, cy, cz, x, y, z, feed) { - if (pendingRadiusCompensation >= 0) { - error(localize("Radius compensation cannot be activated/deactivated for a circular move.")); - return; - } - - var start = getCurrentPosition(); - - if (isFullCircle()) { - if (properties.useRadius || isHelical()) { // radius mode does not support full arcs - linearize(tolerance); - return; - } - switch (getCircularPlane()) { - case PLANE_XY: - writeBlock(gAbsIncModal.format(90), gPlaneModal.format(17), gMotionModal.format(clockwise ? 2 : 3), iOutput.format(cx - start.x, 0), jOutput.format(cy - start.y, 0), getFeed(feed)); - break; - case PLANE_ZX: - writeBlock(gAbsIncModal.format(90), gPlaneModal.format(18), gMotionModal.format(clockwise ? 2 : 3), iOutput.format(cx - start.x, 0), kOutput.format(cz - start.z, 0), getFeed(feed)); - break; - case PLANE_YZ: - writeBlock(gAbsIncModal.format(90), gPlaneModal.format(19), gMotionModal.format(clockwise ? 2 : 3), jOutput.format(cy - start.y, 0), kOutput.format(cz - start.z, 0), getFeed(feed)); - break; - default: - linearize(tolerance); - } - } else if (!properties.useRadius) { - switch (getCircularPlane()) { - case PLANE_XY: - writeBlock(gAbsIncModal.format(90), gPlaneModal.format(17), gMotionModal.format(clockwise ? 2 : 3), xOutput.format(x), yOutput.format(y), zOutput.format(z), iOutput.format(cx - start.x, 0), jOutput.format(cy - start.y, 0), getFeed(feed)); - break; - case PLANE_ZX: - writeBlock(gAbsIncModal.format(90), gPlaneModal.format(18), gMotionModal.format(clockwise ? 2 : 3), xOutput.format(x), yOutput.format(y), zOutput.format(z), iOutput.format(cx - start.x, 0), kOutput.format(cz - start.z, 0), getFeed(feed)); - break; - case PLANE_YZ: - writeBlock(gAbsIncModal.format(90), gPlaneModal.format(19), gMotionModal.format(clockwise ? 2 : 3), xOutput.format(x), yOutput.format(y), zOutput.format(z), jOutput.format(cy - start.y, 0), kOutput.format(cz - start.z, 0), getFeed(feed)); - break; - default: - if (properties.allow3DArcs) { - // make sure maximumCircularSweep is well below 360deg - // we could use G02.4 or G03.4 - direction is calculated - var ip = getPositionU(0.5); - writeBlock(gAbsIncModal.format(90), gMotionModal.format(clockwise ? 2.4 : 3.4), xOutput.format(ip.x), yOutput.format(ip.y), zOutput.format(ip.z), getFeed(feed)); - writeBlock(xOutput.format(x), yOutput.format(y), zOutput.format(z)); - } else { - linearize(tolerance); - } - } - } else { // use radius mode - var r = getCircularRadius(); - if (toDeg(getCircularSweep()) > (180 + 1e-9)) { - r = -r; // allow up to <360 deg arcs - } - switch (getCircularPlane()) { - case PLANE_XY: - writeBlock(gPlaneModal.format(17), gMotionModal.format(clockwise ? 2 : 3), xOutput.format(x), yOutput.format(y), zOutput.format(z), "R" + rFormat.format(r), getFeed(feed)); - break; - case PLANE_ZX: - writeBlock(gPlaneModal.format(18), gMotionModal.format(clockwise ? 2 : 3), xOutput.format(x), yOutput.format(y), zOutput.format(z), "R" + rFormat.format(r), getFeed(feed)); - break; - case PLANE_YZ: - writeBlock(gPlaneModal.format(19), gMotionModal.format(clockwise ? 2 : 3), xOutput.format(x), yOutput.format(y), zOutput.format(z), "R" + rFormat.format(r), getFeed(feed)); - break; - default: - if (properties.allow3DArcs) { - // make sure maximumCircularSweep is well below 360deg - // we could use G02.4 or G03.4 - direction is calculated - var ip = getPositionU(0.5); - writeBlock(gAbsIncModal.format(90), gMotionModal.format(clockwise ? 2.4 : 3.4), xOutput.format(ip.x), yOutput.format(ip.y), zOutput.format(ip.z), getFeed(feed)); - writeBlock(xOutput.format(x), yOutput.format(y), zOutput.format(z)); - } else { - linearize(tolerance); - } - } - } -} - -var currentCoolantMode = COOLANT_OFF; - -function setCoolant(coolant) { - if (isProbeOperation()) { // avoid coolant output for probing - coolant = COOLANT_OFF; - } - - if (coolant == currentCoolantMode) { - return; // coolant is already active - } - - if (coolant == COOLANT_OFF) { - writeBlock(mFormat.format((currentCoolantMode == COOLANT_THROUGH_TOOL) ? 89 : 9)); - currentCoolantMode = COOLANT_OFF; - return; - } - - var m; - switch (coolant) { - case COOLANT_FLOOD: - m = 8; - break; - case COOLANT_THROUGH_TOOL: - m = 88; - break; - default: - onUnsupportedCoolant(coolant); - m = 9; - } - - if (m) { - writeBlock(mFormat.format(m)); - currentCoolantMode = coolant; - } -} - -var mapCommand = { - COMMAND_STOP:0, - COMMAND_OPTIONAL_STOP:1, - COMMAND_END:2, - COMMAND_SPINDLE_CLOCKWISE:3, - COMMAND_SPINDLE_COUNTERCLOCKWISE:4, - COMMAND_STOP_SPINDLE:5, - COMMAND_ORIENTATE_SPINDLE:19 -}; - -function onCommand(command) { - switch (command) { - case COMMAND_COOLANT_OFF: - setCoolant(COOLANT_OFF); - return; - case COMMAND_COOLANT_ON: - setCoolant(COOLANT_FLOOD); - return; - case COMMAND_STOP: - writeBlock(mFormat.format(0)); - forceSpindleSpeed = true; - return; - case COMMAND_START_SPINDLE: - onCommand(tool.clockwise ? COMMAND_SPINDLE_CLOCKWISE : COMMAND_SPINDLE_COUNTERCLOCKWISE); - return; - case COMMAND_LOCK_MULTI_AXIS: - return; - case COMMAND_UNLOCK_MULTI_AXIS: - return; - case COMMAND_START_CHIP_TRANSPORT: - return; - case COMMAND_STOP_CHIP_TRANSPORT: - return; - case COMMAND_BREAK_CONTROL: - return; - case COMMAND_TOOL_MEASURE: - return; - } - - var stringId = getCommandStringId(command); - var mcode = mapCommand[stringId]; - if (mcode != undefined) { - writeBlock(mFormat.format(mcode)); - } else { - onUnsupportedCommand(command); - } -} - -function onSectionEnd() { - writeBlock(gPlaneModal.format(17)); - - if (((getCurrentSectionId() + 1) >= getNumberOfSections()) || - (tool.number != getNextSection().getTool().number)) { - onCommand(COMMAND_BREAK_CONTROL); - } - if (isProbeOperation()) { - writeBlock(gFormat.format(65), "P" + 9833); // spin the probe off - setProbingAngle(); // define rotation of part - } - if (isRedirecting()) { - writeBlock(mFormat.format(99)); // end subprogram - if (properties.useFilesForSubprograms) { - writeln("%"); - } - subprograms += getRedirectionBuffer(); - closeRedirection(); - sequenceNumber = previousSequenceNumber; - } - forceAny(); -} - -function onClose() { - writeln(""); - optionalSection = false; - - onCommand(COMMAND_COOLANT_OFF); - - writeBlock(gFormat.format(28), gAbsIncModal.format(91), "Z" + xyzFormat.format(0)); // retract - retracted = true; - - disableLengthCompensation(true); - setSmoothing(false); - zOutput.reset(); - - setWorkPlane(new Vector(0, 0, 0)); // reset working plane - - if (properties.useG54x4) { - writeBlock(gFormat.format(54.4), "P0"); - } - - if (!machineConfiguration.hasHomePositionX() && !machineConfiguration.hasHomePositionY()) { - // 90/91 mode is don't care - writeBlock(gFormat.format(28), gAbsIncModal.format(91), "X" + xyzFormat.format(0), "Y" + xyzFormat.format(0)); // return to home - } else { - var homeX; - if (machineConfiguration.hasHomePositionX()) { - homeX = "X" + xyzFormat.format(machineConfiguration.getHomePositionX()); - } - var homeY; - if (machineConfiguration.hasHomePositionY()) { - homeY = "Y" + xyzFormat.format(machineConfiguration.getHomePositionY()); - } - writeBlock(gAbsIncModal.format(90), gFormat.format(53), gMotionModal.format(0), homeX, homeY); - } - - onImpliedCommand(COMMAND_END); - onImpliedCommand(COMMAND_STOP_SPINDLE); - writeBlock(mFormat.format(30)); // stop program, spindle stop, coolant off - write(subprograms); - writeln("%"); -} diff --git a/resources/workshop/.inc/saturn/mc/fanuc2/fanuc.cps b/resources/workshop/.inc/saturn/mc/fanuc2/fanuc.cps deleted file mode 100644 index 89f1cb4d0..000000000 --- a/resources/workshop/.inc/saturn/mc/fanuc2/fanuc.cps +++ /dev/null @@ -1,2599 +0,0 @@ -/** - Copyright (C) 2012-2019 by Autodesk, Inc. - All rights reserved. - - FANUC post processor configuration. - - $Revision: 42622 c34293f826e4bfeffedc4842dce8aafb1fb3293e $ - $Date: 2020-01-09 08:05:53 $ - - FORKID {04622D27-72F0-45d4-85FB-DB346FD1AE22} -*/ - -description = "FANUC"; -vendor = "Fanuc"; -vendorUrl = "http://www.fanuc.com"; -legal = "Copyright (C) 2012-2019 by Autodesk, Inc."; -certificationLevel = 2; -minimumRevision = 40783; - -longDescription = "Generic post for Fanuc."; - -extension = "nc"; -programNameIsInteger = true; -setCodePage("ascii"); - -capabilities = CAPABILITY_MILLING; -tolerance = spatial(0.002, MM); - -minimumChordLength = spatial(0.25, MM); -minimumCircularRadius = spatial(0.01, MM); -maximumCircularRadius = spatial(1000, MM); -minimumCircularSweep = toRad(0.01); -maximumCircularSweep = toRad(180); -allowHelicalMoves = true; -allowedCircularPlanes = undefined; // allow any circular motion -highFeedrate = (unit == IN) ? 500 : 5000; - -// user-defined properties -properties = { - writeMachine: true, // write machine - writeTools: true, // writes the tools - preloadTool: true, // preloads next tool on tool change if any - showSequenceNumbers: true, // show sequence numbers - sequenceNumberStart: 10, // first sequence number - sequenceNumberIncrement: 5, // increment for sequence numbers - optionalStop: true, // optional stop - o8: false, // specifies 8-digit program number - separateWordsWithSpace: true, // specifies that the words should be separated with a white space - allow3DArcs: false, // specifies that 3D circular arcs are allowed - useRadius: false, // specifies that arcs should be output using the radius (R word) instead of the I, J, and K words - forceIJK: false, // force output of IJK for G2/G3 when not using R word - useParametricFeed: false, // specifies that feed should be output using Q values - showNotes: false, // specifies that operation notes should be output - useSmoothing: false, // specifies if smoothing should be used or not - usePitchForTapping: false, // enable to use pitch instead of feed for the F-word for canned tapping cycles - note that your CNC control must be setup for pitch mode! - useG95: false, // use IPR/MPR instead of IPM/MPM - useG28: true, // specifies that G28 should be used instead of G53 - useG54x4: false, // Fanuc 30i supports G54.4 for Workpiece Error Compensation - useSubroutines: false, // specifies that subroutines per each operation should be generated - useSubroutinePatterns: false, // generates subroutines for patterned operation - useSubroutineCycles: false, // generates subroutines for cycle operations on same holes - useRigidTapping: "yes" // output rigid tapping block -}; - -// user-defined property definitions -propertyDefinitions = { - writeMachine: {title:"Write machine", description:"Output the machine settings in the header of the code.", group:0, type:"boolean"}, - writeTools: {title:"Write tool list", description:"Output a tool list in the header of the code.", group:0, type:"boolean"}, - preloadTool: {title:"Preload tool", description:"Preloads the next tool at a tool change (if any).", group:1, type:"boolean"}, - showSequenceNumbers: {title:"Use sequence numbers", description:"Use sequence numbers for each block of outputted code.", group:1, type:"boolean"}, - sequenceNumberStart: {title:"Start sequence number", description:"The number at which to start the sequence numbers.", group:1, type:"integer"}, - sequenceNumberIncrement: {title:"Sequence number increment", description:"The amount by which the sequence number is incremented by in each block.", group:1, type:"integer"}, - optionalStop: {title:"Optional stop", description:"Outputs optional stop code during when necessary in the code.", type:"boolean"}, - o8: {title:"8 Digit program number", description:"Specifies that an 8 digit program number is needed.", type:"boolean"}, - separateWordsWithSpace: {title:"Separate words with space", description:"Adds spaces between words if 'yes' is selected.", type:"boolean"}, - allow3DArcs: {title:"Allow 3D arcs", description:"Specifies whether 3D circular arcs are allowed.", type:"boolean"}, - useRadius: {title:"Radius arcs", description:"If yes is selected, arcs are outputted using radius values rather than IJK.", type:"boolean"}, - forceIJK: {title:"Force IJK", description:"Force the output of IJK for G2/G3 when not using R mode.", type:"boolean"}, - useParametricFeed: {title:"Parametric feed", description:"Specifies the feed value that should be output using a Q value.", type:"boolean"}, - showNotes: {title:"Show notes", description:"Writes operation notes as comments in the outputted code.", type:"boolean"}, - useSmoothing: {title:"Use smoothing", description:"Specifies if smoothing should be used or not.", type:"boolean"}, - usePitchForTapping: {title:"Use pitch for tapping", description:"Enables the use of pitch instead of feed for the F-word in canned tapping cycles. Your CNC control must be setup for pitch mode!", type:"boolean"}, - useG95: {title:"Use G95", description:"Use IPR/MPR instead of IPM/MPM.", type:"boolean"}, - useG54x4: {title:"Use G54.4", description:"Fanuc 30i supports G54.4 for workpiece error compensation.", type:"boolean"}, - useSubroutines: {title:"Use subroutines", description:"Specifies that subroutines per each operation should be generated.", type:"boolean"}, - useSubroutinePatterns: {title:"Use subroutine patterns", description:"Generates subroutines for patterned operation.", type:"boolean"}, - useSubroutineCycles: {title: "Use subroutine cycles", description: "Generates subroutines for cycle operations on same holes.", type: "boolean"}, - useG28: {title: "G28 Safe retracts", description: "Disable to use G53 instead of G28 for retracts.", type: "boolean"}, - useRigidTapping: { - title: "Use rigid tapping", - description: "Select 'Yes' to enable, 'No' to disable, or 'Without spindle direction' to enable rigid tapping without outputting the spindle direction block.", - type: "enum", - values:[ - {title:"Yes", id:"yes"}, - {title:"No", id:"no"}, - {title:"Without spindle direction", id:"without"} - ] - } -}; - -var singleLineCoolant = false; // specifies to output multiple coolant codes in one line rather than in separate lines -// samples: -// {id: COOLANT_THROUGH_TOOL, on: 88, off: 89} -// {id: COOLANT_THROUGH_TOOL, on: [8, 88], off: [9, 89]} -var coolants = [ - {id: COOLANT_FLOOD, on: 8}, - {id: COOLANT_MIST}, - {id: COOLANT_THROUGH_TOOL, on: 88, off: 89}, - {id: COOLANT_AIR}, - {id: COOLANT_AIR_THROUGH_TOOL}, - {id: COOLANT_SUCTION}, - {id: COOLANT_FLOOD_MIST}, - {id: COOLANT_FLOOD_THROUGH_TOOL, on: [8, 88], off: [9, 89]}, - {id: COOLANT_OFF, off: 9} -]; - -var permittedCommentChars = " ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZ0123456789.,=_-"; - -var gFormat = createFormat({prefix:"G", width:2, zeropad:true, decimals:1}); -var mFormat = createFormat({prefix:"M", width:2, zeropad:true, decimals:1}); -var hFormat = createFormat({prefix:"H", width:2, zeropad:true, decimals:1}); -var dFormat = createFormat({prefix:"D", width:2, zeropad:true, decimals:1}); -var probe100Format = createFormat({decimals:3, zeropad:true, width:3, forceDecimal:true}); - -var xyzFormat = createFormat({decimals:(unit == MM ? 3 : 4), forceDecimal:true}); -var ijkFormat = createFormat({decimals:6, forceDecimal:true}); // unitless -var rFormat = xyzFormat; // radius -var abcFormat = createFormat({decimals:3, forceDecimal:true, scale:DEG}); -var feedFormat = createFormat({decimals:(unit == MM ? 0 : 1), forceDecimal:true}); -var pitchFormat = createFormat({decimals:(unit == MM ? 3 : 4), forceDecimal:true}); -var toolFormat = createFormat({decimals:0}); -var rpmFormat = createFormat({decimals:0}); -var secFormat = createFormat({decimals:3, forceDecimal:true}); // seconds - range 0.001-99999.999 -var milliFormat = createFormat({decimals:0}); // milliseconds // range 1-9999 -var taperFormat = createFormat({decimals:1, scale:DEG}); -var oFormat = createFormat({width:4, zeropad:true, decimals:0}); -var peckFormat = createFormat({decimals:(unit == MM ? 3 : 4), forceDecimal:true}); -// var peckFormat = createFormat({decimals:0, forceDecimal:false, trim:false, width:4, zeropad:true, scale:(unit == MM ? 1000 : 10000)}); - -var xOutput = createVariable({prefix:"X"}, xyzFormat); -var yOutput = createVariable({prefix:"Y"}, xyzFormat); -var zOutput = createVariable({onchange: function() {retracted = false;}, prefix:"Z"}, xyzFormat); -var aOutput = createVariable({prefix:"A"}, abcFormat); -var bOutput = createVariable({prefix:"B"}, abcFormat); -var cOutput = createVariable({prefix:"C"}, abcFormat); -var feedOutput = createVariable({prefix:"F"}, feedFormat); -var pitchOutput = createVariable({prefix:"F", force:true}, pitchFormat); -var sOutput = createVariable({prefix:"S", force:true}, rpmFormat); -var dOutput = createVariable({}, dFormat); -var peckOutput = createVariable({prefix:"Q", force:true}, peckFormat); - -// circular output -var iOutput = createReferenceVariable({prefix:"I"}, xyzFormat); -var jOutput = createReferenceVariable({prefix:"J"}, xyzFormat); -var kOutput = createReferenceVariable({prefix:"K"}, xyzFormat); - -var gMotionModal = createModal({}, gFormat); // modal group 1 // G0-G3, ... -var gPlaneModal = createModal({onchange:function () {gMotionModal.reset();}}, gFormat); // modal group 2 // G17-19 -var gAbsIncModal = createModal({}, gFormat); // modal group 3 // G90-91 -var gFeedModeModal = createModal({}, gFormat); // modal group 5 // G94-95 -var gUnitModal = createModal({}, gFormat); // modal group 6 // G20-21 -var gCycleModal = createModal({}, gFormat); // modal group 9 // G81, ... -var gRetractModal = createModal({}, gFormat); // modal group 10 // G98-99 -var gRotationModal = createModal({}, gFormat); // modal group 16 // G68-G69 - -// fixed settings -var firstFeedParameter = 500; -var useMultiAxisFeatures = true; -var forceMultiAxisIndexing = false; // force multi-axis indexing for 3D programs -var maximumLineLength = 80; // the maximum number of charaters allowed in a line -var minimumCyclePoints = 5; // minimum number of points in cycle operation to consider for subprogram -var cancelTiltFirst = false; // cancel G68.2 with G69 prior to G54-G59 WCS block -var useABCPrepositioning = false; // position ABC axes prior to G68.2 block - -var WARNING_WORK_OFFSET = 0; - -var ANGLE_PROBE_NOT_SUPPORTED = 0; -var ANGLE_PROBE_USE_ROTATION = 1; -var ANGLE_PROBE_USE_CAXIS = 2; - -var SUB_UNKNOWN = 0; -var SUB_PATTERN = 1; -var SUB_CYCLE = 2; - -// collected state -var sequenceNumber; -var currentWorkOffset; -var optionalSection = false; -var forceSpindleSpeed = false; -var activeMovements; // do not use by default -var currentFeedId; -var g68RotationMode = 0; -var angularProbingMode; -var subprograms = []; -var currentPattern = -1; -var firstPattern = false; -var currentSubprogram; -var lastSubprogram; -var definedPatterns = new Array(); -var incrementalMode = false; -var saveShowSequenceNumbers; -var cycleSubprogramIsActive = false; -var patternIsActive = false; -var lastOperationComment = ""; -var incrementalSubprogram; -probeMultipleFeatures = true; - -/** - Writes the specified block. -*/ -function writeBlock() { - var text = formatWords(arguments); - if (!text) { - return; - } - if (properties.showSequenceNumbers) { - if (optionalSection) { - if (text) { - writeWords("/", "N" + sequenceNumber, text); - } - } else { - writeWords2("N" + sequenceNumber, arguments); - } - sequenceNumber += properties.sequenceNumberIncrement; - } else { - if (optionalSection) { - writeWords2("/", arguments); - } else { - writeWords(arguments); - } - } -} - -/** - Writes the specified optional block. -*/ -function writeOptionalBlock() { - if (properties.showSequenceNumbers) { - var words = formatWords(arguments); - if (words) { - writeWords("/", "N" + sequenceNumber, words); - sequenceNumber += properties.sequenceNumberIncrement; - } - } else { - writeWords2("/", arguments); - } -} - -function formatComment(text) { - return "(" + filterText(String(text).toUpperCase(), permittedCommentChars).replace(/[()]/g, "") + ")"; -} - -/** - Output a comment. -*/ -function writeComment(text) { - writeln(formatComment(text)); -} - -function onOpen() { - if (properties.useRadius) { - maximumCircularSweep = toRad(90); // avoid potential center calculation errors for CNC - } - gRotationModal.format(69); // Default to G69 Rotation Off - - if (false) { // note: setup your machine here - var aAxis = createAxis({coordinate:0, table:false, axis:[1, 0, 0], range:[-360, 360], preference:1}); - var cAxis = createAxis({coordinate:2, table:false, axis:[0, 0, 1], range:[-360, 360], preference:1}); - machineConfiguration = new MachineConfiguration(aAxis, cAxis); - - setMachineConfiguration(machineConfiguration); - optimizeMachineAngles2(0); // TCP mode - } - - if (!machineConfiguration.isMachineCoordinate(0)) { - aOutput.disable(); - } - if (!machineConfiguration.isMachineCoordinate(1)) { - bOutput.disable(); - } - if (!machineConfiguration.isMachineCoordinate(2)) { - cOutput.disable(); - } - - if (!properties.separateWordsWithSpace) { - setWordSeparator(""); - } - - if (properties.forceIJK) { - iOutput = createReferenceVariable({prefix:"I", force:true}, xyzFormat); - jOutput = createReferenceVariable({prefix:"J", force:true}, xyzFormat); - kOutput = createReferenceVariable({prefix:"K", force:true}, xyzFormat); - } - - sequenceNumber = properties.sequenceNumberStart; - writeln("%"); - - if (programName) { - var programId; - try { - programId = getAsInt(programName); - } catch (e) { - error(localize("Program name must be a number.")); - return; - } - if (properties.o8) { - if (!((programId >= 1) && (programId <= 99999999))) { - error(localize("Program number is out of range.")); - return; - } - } else { - if (!((programId >= 1) && (programId <= 9999))) { - error(localize("Program number is out of range.")); - return; - } - } - if ((programId >= 8000) && (programId <= 9999)) { - warning(localize("Program number is reserved by tool builder.")); - } - oFormat = createFormat({width:(properties.o8 ? 8 : 4), zeropad:true, decimals:0}); - if (programComment) { - writeln("O" + oFormat.format(programId) + " (" + filterText(String(programComment).toUpperCase(), permittedCommentChars) + ")"); - } else { - writeln("O" + oFormat.format(programId)); - } - lastSubprogram = programId; - } else { - error(localize("Program name has not been specified.")); - return; - } - - // dump machine configuration - var vendor = machineConfiguration.getVendor(); - var model = machineConfiguration.getModel(); - var description = machineConfiguration.getDescription(); - - if (properties.writeMachine && (vendor || model || description)) { - writeComment(localize("Machine")); - if (vendor) { - writeComment(" " + localize("vendor") + ": " + vendor); - } - if (model) { - writeComment(" " + localize("model") + ": " + model); - } - if (description) { - writeComment(" " + localize("description") + ": " + description); - } - } - - //Probing Surface Inspection - if (typeof inspectionWriteVariables == "function") { - inspectionWriteVariables(); - } - - // dump tool information - if (properties.writeTools) { - var zRanges = {}; - if (is3D()) { - var numberOfSections = getNumberOfSections(); - for (var i = 0; i < numberOfSections; ++i) { - var section = getSection(i); - var zRange = section.getGlobalZRange(); - var tool = section.getTool(); - if (zRanges[tool.number]) { - zRanges[tool.number].expandToRange(zRange); - } else { - zRanges[tool.number] = zRange; - } - } - } - - var tools = getToolTable(); - if (tools.getNumberOfTools() > 0) { - for (var i = 0; i < tools.getNumberOfTools(); ++i) { - var tool = tools.getTool(i); - var comment = "T" + toolFormat.format(tool.number) + " " + - "D=" + xyzFormat.format(tool.diameter) + " " + - localize("CR") + "=" + xyzFormat.format(tool.cornerRadius); - if ((tool.taperAngle > 0) && (tool.taperAngle < Math.PI)) { - comment += " " + localize("TAPER") + "=" + taperFormat.format(tool.taperAngle) + localize("deg"); - } - if (zRanges[tool.number]) { - comment += " - " + localize("ZMIN") + "=" + xyzFormat.format(zRanges[tool.number].getMinimum()); - } - comment += " - " + getToolTypeName(tool.type); - writeComment(comment); - } - } - } - - if (false) { - // check for duplicate tool number - for (var i = 0; i < getNumberOfSections(); ++i) { - var sectioni = getSection(i); - var tooli = sectioni.getTool(); - for (var j = i + 1; j < getNumberOfSections(); ++j) { - var sectionj = getSection(j); - var toolj = sectionj.getTool(); - if (tooli.number == toolj.number) { - if (xyzFormat.areDifferent(tooli.diameter, toolj.diameter) || - xyzFormat.areDifferent(tooli.cornerRadius, toolj.cornerRadius) || - abcFormat.areDifferent(tooli.taperAngle, toolj.taperAngle) || - (tooli.numberOfFlutes != toolj.numberOfFlutes)) { - error( - subst( - localize("Using the same tool number for different cutter geometry for operation '%1' and '%2'."), - sectioni.hasParameter("operation-comment") ? sectioni.getParameter("operation-comment") : ("#" + (i + 1)), - sectionj.hasParameter("operation-comment") ? sectionj.getParameter("operation-comment") : ("#" + (j + 1)) - ) - ); - return; - } - } - } - } - } - - if ((getNumberOfSections() > 0) && (getSection(0).workOffset == 0)) { - for (var i = 0; i < getNumberOfSections(); ++i) { - if (getSection(i).workOffset > 0) { - error(localize("Using multiple work offsets is not possible if the initial work offset is 0.")); - return; - } - } - } - - // absolute coordinates and feed per min - writeBlock(gAbsIncModal.format(90), gFeedModeModal.format(properties.useG95 ? 95 : 94), gPlaneModal.format(17), gFormat.format(49), gFormat.format(40), gFormat.format(80)); - - switch (unit) { - case IN: - writeBlock(gUnitModal.format(20)); - break; - case MM: - writeBlock(gUnitModal.format(21)); - break; - } - - if (properties.useG95 && properties.useParametricFeed) { - error(localize("Parametric feed is not supported when using G95.")); - return; - } - - if (properties.useG95) { - feedFormat = createFormat({decimals:(unit == MM ? 4 : 5), forceDecimal:true}); - feedOutput = createVariable({prefix:"F"}, feedFormat); - } -} - -function onComment(message) { - var comments = String(message).split(";"); - for (comment in comments) { - writeComment(comments[comment]); - } -} - -/** Force output of X, Y, and Z. */ -function forceXYZ() { - xOutput.reset(); - yOutput.reset(); - zOutput.reset(); -} - -/** Force output of A, B, and C. */ -function forceABC() { - aOutput.reset(); - bOutput.reset(); - cOutput.reset(); -} - -function forceFeed() { - currentFeedId = undefined; - feedOutput.reset(); -} - -/** Force output of X, Y, Z, A, B, C, and F on next output. */ -function forceAny() { - forceXYZ(); - forceABC(); - forceFeed(); -} - -var lengthCompensationActive = false; -var retracted = false; // specifies that the tool has been retracted to the safe plane - -/** Disables length compensation if currently active or if forced. */ -function disableLengthCompensation(force) { - if (lengthCompensationActive || force) { - validate(retracted, "Cannot cancel length compensation if the machine is not fully retracted."); - writeBlock(gFormat.format(49)); - lengthCompensationActive = false; - } -} - -var currentSmoothing = false; - -function setSmoothing(mode) { - if (mode == currentSmoothing) { - return false; - } - - // 1) Make sure G49 is called before the execution of G05.1 Q1 Rx - // 2) G05.1 Q1 Rx must be engaged BEFORE G43-Tool Length Comp - // 3) AICC and AIAPC need to be turned on and off for each tool - // 4) AICC and AIAPC does not apply to canned drilling cycles - validate(!lengthCompensationActive, "Length compensation is active while trying to update smoothing."); - - currentSmoothing = mode; - writeBlock(gFormat.format(5.1), mode ? "Q1" : "Q0"); - return true; -} - -function FeedContext(id, description, feed) { - this.id = id; - this.description = description; - this.feed = feed; -} - -function getFeed(f) { - if (properties.useG95) { - return feedOutput.format(f / spindleSpeed); // use feed value - } - if (activeMovements) { - var feedContext = activeMovements[movement]; - if (feedContext != undefined) { - if (!feedFormat.areDifferent(feedContext.feed, f)) { - if (feedContext.id == currentFeedId) { - return ""; // nothing has changed - } - forceFeed(); - currentFeedId = feedContext.id; - return "F#" + (firstFeedParameter + feedContext.id); - } - } - currentFeedId = undefined; // force Q feed next time - } - return feedOutput.format(f); // use feed value -} - -function initializeActiveFeeds() { - activeMovements = new Array(); - var movements = currentSection.getMovements(); - - var id = 0; - var activeFeeds = new Array(); - if (hasParameter("operation:tool_feedCutting")) { - if (movements & ((1 << MOVEMENT_CUTTING) | (1 << MOVEMENT_LINK_TRANSITION) | (1 << MOVEMENT_EXTENDED))) { - var feedContext = new FeedContext(id, localize("Cutting"), getParameter("operation:tool_feedCutting")); - activeFeeds.push(feedContext); - activeMovements[MOVEMENT_CUTTING] = feedContext; - activeMovements[MOVEMENT_LINK_TRANSITION] = feedContext; - activeMovements[MOVEMENT_EXTENDED] = feedContext; - } - ++id; - if (movements & (1 << MOVEMENT_PREDRILL)) { - feedContext = new FeedContext(id, localize("Predrilling"), getParameter("operation:tool_feedCutting")); - activeMovements[MOVEMENT_PREDRILL] = feedContext; - activeFeeds.push(feedContext); - } - ++id; - } - - if (hasParameter("operation:finishFeedrate")) { - if (movements & (1 << MOVEMENT_FINISH_CUTTING)) { - var feedContext = new FeedContext(id, localize("Finish"), getParameter("operation:finishFeedrate")); - activeFeeds.push(feedContext); - activeMovements[MOVEMENT_FINISH_CUTTING] = feedContext; - } - ++id; - } else if (hasParameter("operation:tool_feedCutting")) { - if (movements & (1 << MOVEMENT_FINISH_CUTTING)) { - var feedContext = new FeedContext(id, localize("Finish"), getParameter("operation:tool_feedCutting")); - activeFeeds.push(feedContext); - activeMovements[MOVEMENT_FINISH_CUTTING] = feedContext; - } - ++id; - } - - if (hasParameter("operation:tool_feedEntry")) { - if (movements & (1 << MOVEMENT_LEAD_IN)) { - var feedContext = new FeedContext(id, localize("Entry"), getParameter("operation:tool_feedEntry")); - activeFeeds.push(feedContext); - activeMovements[MOVEMENT_LEAD_IN] = feedContext; - } - ++id; - } - - if (hasParameter("operation:tool_feedExit")) { - if (movements & (1 << MOVEMENT_LEAD_OUT)) { - var feedContext = new FeedContext(id, localize("Exit"), getParameter("operation:tool_feedExit")); - activeFeeds.push(feedContext); - activeMovements[MOVEMENT_LEAD_OUT] = feedContext; - } - ++id; - } - - if (hasParameter("operation:noEngagementFeedrate")) { - if (movements & (1 << MOVEMENT_LINK_DIRECT)) { - var feedContext = new FeedContext(id, localize("Direct"), getParameter("operation:noEngagementFeedrate")); - activeFeeds.push(feedContext); - activeMovements[MOVEMENT_LINK_DIRECT] = feedContext; - } - ++id; - } else if (hasParameter("operation:tool_feedCutting") && - hasParameter("operation:tool_feedEntry") && - hasParameter("operation:tool_feedExit")) { - if (movements & (1 << MOVEMENT_LINK_DIRECT)) { - var feedContext = new FeedContext(id, localize("Direct"), Math.max(getParameter("operation:tool_feedCutting"), getParameter("operation:tool_feedEntry"), getParameter("operation:tool_feedExit"))); - activeFeeds.push(feedContext); - activeMovements[MOVEMENT_LINK_DIRECT] = feedContext; - } - ++id; - } - - if (hasParameter("operation:reducedFeedrate")) { - if (movements & (1 << MOVEMENT_REDUCED)) { - var feedContext = new FeedContext(id, localize("Reduced"), getParameter("operation:reducedFeedrate")); - activeFeeds.push(feedContext); - activeMovements[MOVEMENT_REDUCED] = feedContext; - } - ++id; - } - - if (hasParameter("operation:tool_feedRamp")) { - if (movements & ((1 << MOVEMENT_RAMP) | (1 << MOVEMENT_RAMP_HELIX) | (1 << MOVEMENT_RAMP_PROFILE) | (1 << MOVEMENT_RAMP_ZIG_ZAG))) { - var feedContext = new FeedContext(id, localize("Ramping"), getParameter("operation:tool_feedRamp")); - activeFeeds.push(feedContext); - activeMovements[MOVEMENT_RAMP] = feedContext; - activeMovements[MOVEMENT_RAMP_HELIX] = feedContext; - activeMovements[MOVEMENT_RAMP_PROFILE] = feedContext; - activeMovements[MOVEMENT_RAMP_ZIG_ZAG] = feedContext; - } - ++id; - } - if (hasParameter("operation:tool_feedPlunge")) { - if (movements & (1 << MOVEMENT_PLUNGE)) { - var feedContext = new FeedContext(id, localize("Plunge"), getParameter("operation:tool_feedPlunge")); - activeFeeds.push(feedContext); - activeMovements[MOVEMENT_PLUNGE] = feedContext; - } - ++id; - } - if (true) { // high feed - if (movements & (1 << MOVEMENT_HIGH_FEED)) { - var feedContext = new FeedContext(id, localize("High Feed"), this.highFeedrate); - activeFeeds.push(feedContext); - activeMovements[MOVEMENT_HIGH_FEED] = feedContext; - } - ++id; - } - - for (var i = 0; i < activeFeeds.length; ++i) { - var feedContext = activeFeeds[i]; - writeBlock("#" + (firstFeedParameter + feedContext.id) + "=" + feedFormat.format(feedContext.feed), formatComment(feedContext.description)); - } -} - -var currentWorkPlaneABC = undefined; - -function forceWorkPlane() { - currentWorkPlaneABC = undefined; -} - -function defineWorkPlane(_section, _setWorkPlane) { - var abc = new Vector(0, 0, 0); - if (forceMultiAxisIndexing || !is3D() || machineConfiguration.isMultiAxisConfiguration()) { // use 5-axis indexing for multi-axis mode - // set working plane after datum shift - - if (_section.isMultiAxis()) { - cancelTransformation(); - if (_setWorkPlane) { - forceWorkPlane(); - } - if (machineConfiguration.isMultiAxisConfiguration()) { - abc = _section.getInitialToolAxisABC(); - if (_setWorkPlane) { - if (!retracted) { - writeRetract(Z); - } - onCommand(COMMAND_UNLOCK_MULTI_AXIS); - gMotionModal.reset(); - writeBlock( - gMotionModal.format(0), - conditional(machineConfiguration.isMachineCoordinate(0), "A" + abcFormat.format(abc.x)), - conditional(machineConfiguration.isMachineCoordinate(1), "B" + abcFormat.format(abc.y)), - conditional(machineConfiguration.isMachineCoordinate(2), "C" + abcFormat.format(abc.z)) - ); - } - } else { - if (_setWorkPlane) { - var d = _section.getGlobalInitialToolAxis(); - // position - writeBlock( - gAbsIncModal.format(90), - gMotionModal.format(0), - "I" + xyzFormat.format(d.x), "J" + xyzFormat.format(d.y), "K" + xyzFormat.format(d.z) - ); - } - } - } else { - if (useMultiAxisFeatures) { - var euler = _section.workPlane.getEuler2(EULER_ZXZ_R); - abc = new Vector(euler.x, euler.y, euler.z); - cancelTransformation(); - } else { - abc = getWorkPlaneMachineABC(_section.workPlane, _setWorkPlane, true); - } - if (_setWorkPlane) { - setWorkPlane(abc); - } - } - } else { // pure 3D - var remaining = _section.workPlane; - if (!isSameDirection(remaining.forward, new Vector(0, 0, 1))) { - error(localize("Tool orientation is not supported.")); - return abc; - } - setRotation(remaining); - } - return abc; -} - -function cancelWorkPlane() { - writeBlock(gRotationModal.format(69)); // cancel frame - forceWorkPlane(); -} - -function setWorkPlane(abc) { - if (!forceMultiAxisIndexing && is3D() && !machineConfiguration.isMultiAxisConfiguration()) { - return; // ignore - } - - if (!((currentWorkPlaneABC == undefined) || - abcFormat.areDifferent(abc.x, currentWorkPlaneABC.x) || - abcFormat.areDifferent(abc.y, currentWorkPlaneABC.y) || - abcFormat.areDifferent(abc.z, currentWorkPlaneABC.z))) { - return; // no change - } - - onCommand(COMMAND_UNLOCK_MULTI_AXIS); - if (!retracted) { - writeRetract(Z); - } - - if (useMultiAxisFeatures) { - if (cancelTiltFirst) { - cancelWorkPlane(); - } - if (machineConfiguration.isMultiAxisConfiguration() && useABCPrepositioning) { - var angles = abc.isNonZero() ? getWorkPlaneMachineABC(currentSection.workPlane, false) : abc; - gMotionModal.reset(); - writeBlock( - gMotionModal.format(0), - conditional(machineConfiguration.isMachineCoordinate(0), "A" + abcFormat.format(angles.x)), - conditional(machineConfiguration.isMachineCoordinate(1), "B" + abcFormat.format(angles.y)), - conditional(machineConfiguration.isMachineCoordinate(2), "C" + abcFormat.format(angles.z)) - ); - } - if (abc.isNonZero()) { - gRotationModal.reset(); - writeBlock(gRotationModal.format(68.2), "X" + xyzFormat.format(0), "Y" + xyzFormat.format(0), "Z" + xyzFormat.format(0), "I" + abcFormat.format(abc.x), "J" + abcFormat.format(abc.y), "K" + abcFormat.format(abc.z)); // set frame - writeBlock(gFormat.format(53.1)); // turn machine - } else { - if (!cancelTiltFirst) { - cancelWorkPlane(); - } - } - } else { - gMotionModal.reset(); - writeBlock( - gMotionModal.format(0), - conditional(machineConfiguration.isMachineCoordinate(0), "A" + abcFormat.format(abc.x)), - conditional(machineConfiguration.isMachineCoordinate(1), "B" + abcFormat.format(abc.y)), - conditional(machineConfiguration.isMachineCoordinate(2), "C" + abcFormat.format(abc.z)) - ); - } - - onCommand(COMMAND_LOCK_MULTI_AXIS); - - currentWorkPlaneABC = abc; -} - -var closestABC = false; // choose closest machine angles -var currentMachineABC; - -function getWorkPlaneMachineABC(workPlane, _setWorkPlane, rotate) { - var W = workPlane; // map to global frame - - var abc = machineConfiguration.getABC(W); - if (closestABC) { - if (currentMachineABC) { - abc = machineConfiguration.remapToABC(abc, currentMachineABC); - } else { - abc = machineConfiguration.getPreferredABC(abc); - } - } else { - abc = machineConfiguration.getPreferredABC(abc); - } - - try { - abc = machineConfiguration.remapABC(abc); - if (_setWorkPlane) { - currentMachineABC = abc; - } - } catch (e) { - error( - localize("Machine angles not supported") + ":" - + conditional(machineConfiguration.isMachineCoordinate(0), " A" + abcFormat.format(abc.x)) - + conditional(machineConfiguration.isMachineCoordinate(1), " B" + abcFormat.format(abc.y)) - + conditional(machineConfiguration.isMachineCoordinate(2), " C" + abcFormat.format(abc.z)) - ); - } - - var direction = machineConfiguration.getDirection(abc); - if (!isSameDirection(direction, W.forward)) { - error(localize("Orientation not supported.")); - } - - if (!machineConfiguration.isABCSupported(abc)) { - error( - localize("Work plane is not supported") + ":" - + conditional(machineConfiguration.isMachineCoordinate(0), " A" + abcFormat.format(abc.x)) - + conditional(machineConfiguration.isMachineCoordinate(1), " B" + abcFormat.format(abc.y)) - + conditional(machineConfiguration.isMachineCoordinate(2), " C" + abcFormat.format(abc.z)) - ); - } - - if (rotate) { - var tcp = false; - if (tcp) { - setRotation(W); // TCP mode - } else { - var O = machineConfiguration.getOrientation(abc); - var R = machineConfiguration.getRemainingOrientation(abc, W); - setRotation(R); - } - } - - return abc; -} - -function isProbeOperation() { - return hasParameter("operation-strategy") && ((getParameter("operation-strategy") == "probe" || getParameter("operation-strategy") == "probe_geometry")); -} - -function isInspectionOperation(section) { - return section.hasParameter("operation-strategy") && (section.getParameter("operation-strategy") == "inspectSurface"); -} - -var probeOutputWorkOffset = 1; - -function onParameter(name, value) { - if (name == "probe-output-work-offset") { - probeOutputWorkOffset = (value > 0) ? value : 1; - } -} - -/** Returns true if the spatial vectors are significantly different. */ -function areSpatialVectorsDifferent(_vector1, _vector2) { - return (xyzFormat.getResultingValue(_vector1.x) != xyzFormat.getResultingValue(_vector2.x)) || - (xyzFormat.getResultingValue(_vector1.y) != xyzFormat.getResultingValue(_vector2.y)) || - (xyzFormat.getResultingValue(_vector1.z) != xyzFormat.getResultingValue(_vector2.z)); -} - -/** Returns true if the spatial boxes are a pure translation. */ -function areSpatialBoxesTranslated(_box1, _box2) { - return !areSpatialVectorsDifferent(Vector.diff(_box1[1], _box1[0]), Vector.diff(_box2[1], _box2[0])) && - !areSpatialVectorsDifferent(Vector.diff(_box2[0], _box1[0]), Vector.diff(_box2[1], _box1[1])); -} - -/** Returns true if the spatial boxes are same. */ -function areSpatialBoxesSame(_box1, _box2) { - return !areSpatialVectorsDifferent(_box1[0], _box2[0]) && !areSpatialVectorsDifferent(_box1[1], _box2[1]); -} - -function subprogramDefine(_initialPosition, _abc, _retracted, _zIsOutput) { - // convert patterns into subprograms - var usePattern = false; - patternIsActive = false; - if (currentSection.isPatterned && currentSection.isPatterned() && properties.useSubroutinePatterns) { - currentPattern = currentSection.getPatternId(); - firstPattern = true; - for (var i = 0; i < definedPatterns.length; ++i) { - if ((definedPatterns[i].patternType == SUB_PATTERN) && (currentPattern == definedPatterns[i].patternId)) { - currentSubprogram = definedPatterns[i].subProgram; - usePattern = definedPatterns[i].validPattern; - firstPattern = false; - break; - } - } - - if (firstPattern) { - // determine if this is a valid pattern for creating a subprogram - usePattern = subprogramIsValid(currentSection, currentPattern, SUB_PATTERN); - if (usePattern) { - currentSubprogram = ++lastSubprogram; - } - definedPatterns.push({ - patternType: SUB_PATTERN, - patternId: currentPattern, - subProgram: currentSubprogram, - validPattern: usePattern, - initialPosition: _initialPosition, - finalPosition: _initialPosition - }); - } - - if (usePattern) { - // make sure Z-position is output prior to subprogram call - if (!_retracted && !_zIsOutput) { - writeBlock(gMotionModal.format(0), zOutput.format(_initialPosition.z)); - } - - // call subprogram - writeBlock(mFormat.format(98), "P" + oFormat.format(currentSubprogram)); - patternIsActive = true; - - if (firstPattern) { - subprogramStart(_initialPosition, _abc, incrementalSubprogram); - } else { - skipRemainingSection(); - setCurrentPosition(getFramePosition(currentSection.getFinalPosition())); - } - } - } - - // Output cycle operation as subprogram - if (!usePattern && properties.useSubroutineCycles && currentSection.doesStrictCycle && - (currentSection.getNumberOfCycles() == 1) && currentSection.getNumberOfCyclePoints() >= minimumCyclePoints) { - var finalPosition = getFramePosition(currentSection.getFinalPosition()); - currentPattern = currentSection.getNumberOfCyclePoints(); - firstPattern = true; - for (var i = 0; i < definedPatterns.length; ++i) { - if ((definedPatterns[i].patternType == SUB_CYCLE) && (currentPattern == definedPatterns[i].patternId) && - !areSpatialVectorsDifferent(_initialPosition, definedPatterns[i].initialPosition) && - !areSpatialVectorsDifferent(finalPosition, definedPatterns[i].finalPosition)) { - currentSubprogram = definedPatterns[i].subProgram; - usePattern = definedPatterns[i].validPattern; - firstPattern = false; - break; - } - } - - if (firstPattern) { - // determine if this is a valid pattern for creating a subprogram - usePattern = subprogramIsValid(currentSection, currentPattern, SUB_CYCLE); - if (usePattern) { - currentSubprogram = ++lastSubprogram; - } - definedPatterns.push({ - patternType: SUB_CYCLE, - patternId: currentPattern, - subProgram: currentSubprogram, - validPattern: usePattern, - initialPosition: _initialPosition, - finalPosition: finalPosition - }); - } - cycleSubprogramIsActive = usePattern; - } - - // Output each operation as a subprogram - if (!usePattern && properties.useSubroutines) { - currentSubprogram = ++lastSubprogram; - writeBlock(mFormat.format(98), "P" + oFormat.format(currentSubprogram)); - firstPattern = true; - subprogramStart(_initialPosition, _abc, false); - } -} - -function subprogramStart(_initialPosition, _abc, _incremental) { - redirectToBuffer(); - var comment = ""; - if (hasParameter("operation-comment")) { - comment = getParameter("operation-comment"); - } - writeln( - "O" + oFormat.format(currentSubprogram) + - conditional(comment, formatComment(comment.substr(0, maximumLineLength - 2 - 6 - 1))) - ); - saveShowSequenceNumbers = properties.showSequenceNumbers; - properties.showSequenceNumbers = false; - if (_incremental) { - setIncrementalMode(_initialPosition, _abc); - } - gPlaneModal.reset(); - gMotionModal.reset(); -} - -function subprogramEnd() { - if (firstPattern) { - writeBlock(mFormat.format(99)); - writeln(""); - subprograms += getRedirectionBuffer(); - } - forceAny(); - firstPattern = false; - properties.showSequenceNumbers = saveShowSequenceNumbers; - closeRedirection(); -} - -function subprogramIsValid(_section, _patternId, _patternType) { - var sectionId = _section.getId(); - var numberOfSections = getNumberOfSections(); - var validSubprogram = _patternType != SUB_CYCLE; - - var masterPosition = new Array(); - masterPosition[0] = getFramePosition(_section.getInitialPosition()); - masterPosition[1] = getFramePosition(_section.getFinalPosition()); - var tempBox = _section.getBoundingBox(); - var masterBox = new Array(); - masterBox[0] = getFramePosition(tempBox[0]); - masterBox[1] = getFramePosition(tempBox[1]); - - var rotation = getRotation(); - var translation = getTranslation(); - incrementalSubprogram = undefined; - - for (var i = 0; i < numberOfSections; ++i) { - var section = getSection(i); - if (section.getId() != sectionId) { - defineWorkPlane(section, false); - // check for valid pattern - if (_patternType == SUB_PATTERN) { - if (section.getPatternId() == _patternId) { - var patternPosition = new Array(); - patternPosition[0] = getFramePosition(section.getInitialPosition()); - patternPosition[1] = getFramePosition(section.getFinalPosition()); - tempBox = section.getBoundingBox(); - var patternBox = new Array(); - patternBox[0] = getFramePosition(tempBox[0]); - patternBox[1] = getFramePosition(tempBox[1]); - - if (areSpatialBoxesSame(masterPosition, patternPosition) && areSpatialBoxesSame(masterBox, patternBox)) { - incrementalSubprogram = incrementalSubprogram ? incrementalSubprogram : false; - } else if (!areSpatialBoxesTranslated(masterPosition, patternPosition) || !areSpatialBoxesTranslated(masterBox, patternBox)) { - validSubprogram = false; - break; - } else { - incrementalSubprogram = true; - } - } - - // check for valid cycle operation - } else if (_patternType == SUB_CYCLE) { - if ((section.getNumberOfCyclePoints() == _patternId) && (section.getNumberOfCycles() == 1)) { - var patternInitial = getFramePosition(section.getInitialPosition()); - var patternFinal = getFramePosition(section.getFinalPosition()); - if (!areSpatialVectorsDifferent(patternInitial, masterPosition[0]) && !areSpatialVectorsDifferent(patternFinal, masterPosition[1])) { - validSubprogram = true; - break; - } - } - } - } - } - setRotation(rotation); - setTranslation(translation); - return (validSubprogram); -} - -function setAxisMode(_format, _output, _prefix, _value, _incr) { - var i = _output.isEnabled(); - _output = _incr ? createIncrementalVariable({prefix: _prefix}, _format) : createVariable({prefix: _prefix}, _format); - _output.format(_value); - _output.format(_value); - i = i ? _output.enable() : _output.disable(); - return _output; -} - -function setIncrementalMode(xyz, abc) { - xOutput = setAxisMode(xyzFormat, xOutput, "X", xyz.x, true); - yOutput = setAxisMode(xyzFormat, yOutput, "Y", xyz.y, true); - zOutput = setAxisMode(xyzFormat, zOutput, "Z", xyz.z, true); - aOutput = setAxisMode(abcFormat, aOutput, "A", abc.x, true); - bOutput = setAxisMode(abcFormat, bOutput, "B", abc.y, true); - cOutput = setAxisMode(abcFormat, cOutput, "C", abc.z, true); - gAbsIncModal.reset(); - writeBlock(gAbsIncModal.format(91)); - incrementalMode = true; -} - -function setAbsoluteMode(xyz, abc) { - if (incrementalMode) { - xOutput = setAxisMode(xyzFormat, xOutput, "X", xyz.x, false); - yOutput = setAxisMode(xyzFormat, yOutput, "Y", xyz.y, false); - zOutput = setAxisMode(xyzFormat, zOutput, "Z", xyz.z, false); - aOutput = setAxisMode(abcFormat, aOutput, "A", abc.x, false); - bOutput = setAxisMode(abcFormat, bOutput, "B", abc.y, false); - cOutput = setAxisMode(abcFormat, cOutput, "C", abc.z, false); - gAbsIncModal.reset(); - writeBlock(gAbsIncModal.format(90)); - incrementalMode = false; - } -} - -function onSection() { - var forceToolAndRetract = optionalSection && !currentSection.isOptional(); - optionalSection = currentSection.isOptional(); - - var insertToolCall = forceToolAndRetract || isFirstSection() || - currentSection.getForceToolChange && currentSection.getForceToolChange() || - (tool.number != getPreviousSection().getTool().number); - - var zIsOutput = false; // true if the Z-position has been output, used for patterns - - var newWorkOffset = isFirstSection() || - (getPreviousSection().workOffset != currentSection.workOffset); // work offset changes - var newWorkPlane = isFirstSection() || - !isSameDirection(getPreviousSection().getGlobalFinalToolAxis(), currentSection.getGlobalInitialToolAxis()) || - (currentSection.isOptimizedForMachine() && getPreviousSection().isOptimizedForMachine() && - Vector.diff(getPreviousSection().getFinalToolAxisABC(), currentSection.getInitialToolAxisABC()).length > 1e-4) || - (!machineConfiguration.isMultiAxisConfiguration() && currentSection.isMultiAxis()) || - (!getPreviousSection().isMultiAxis() && currentSection.isMultiAxis()); // force newWorkPlane between indexing and simultaneous operations - var forceSmoothing = properties.useSmoothing && - (hasParameter("operation-strategy") && (getParameter("operation-strategy") == "drill") || - !isFirstSection() && getPreviousSection().hasParameter("operation-strategy") && (getPreviousSection().getParameter("operation-strategy") == "drill")); // force smoothing in case !insertToolCall (2d chamfer) - if (insertToolCall || newWorkOffset || newWorkPlane || forceSmoothing) { - - // stop spindle before retract during tool change - if (insertToolCall && !isFirstSection()) { - onCommand(COMMAND_STOP_SPINDLE); - } - - // retract to safe plane - writeRetract(Z); // retract - forceXYZ(); - if ((insertToolCall && !isFirstSection()) || forceSmoothing) { - disableLengthCompensation(); - setSmoothing(false); - } - } - - if (hasParameter("operation-comment")) { - var comment = getParameter("operation-comment"); - if (comment && ((comment !== lastOperationComment) || !patternIsActive || insertToolCall)) { - writeln(""); - writeComment(comment); - lastOperationComment = comment; - } else if (!patternIsActive || insertToolCall) { - writeln(""); - } - } else { - writeln(""); - } - - if (properties.showNotes && hasParameter("notes")) { - var notes = getParameter("notes"); - if (notes) { - var lines = String(notes).split("\n"); - var r1 = new RegExp("^[\\s]+", "g"); - var r2 = new RegExp("[\\s]+$", "g"); - for (line in lines) { - var comment = lines[line].replace(r1, "").replace(r2, ""); - if (comment) { - writeComment(comment); - } - } - } - } - - if (insertToolCall) { - forceWorkPlane(); - - onCommand(COMMAND_COOLANT_OFF); - - if (!isFirstSection() && properties.optionalStop) { - onCommand(COMMAND_OPTIONAL_STOP); - } - - if (tool.number > 99) { - warning(localize("Tool number exceeds maximum value.")); - } - - disableLengthCompensation(); - writeBlock("T" + toolFormat.format(tool.number), mFormat.format(6)); - if (tool.comment) { - writeComment(tool.comment); - } - var showToolZMin = false; - if (showToolZMin) { - if (is3D()) { - var numberOfSections = getNumberOfSections(); - var zRange = currentSection.getGlobalZRange(); - var number = tool.number; - for (var i = currentSection.getId() + 1; i < numberOfSections; ++i) { - var section = getSection(i); - if (section.getTool().number != number) { - break; - } - zRange.expandToRange(section.getGlobalZRange()); - } - writeComment(localize("ZMIN") + "=" + zRange.getMinimum()); - } - } - - if (properties.preloadTool) { - var nextTool = getNextTool(tool.number); - if (nextTool) { - writeBlock("T" + toolFormat.format(nextTool.number)); - } else { - // preload first tool - var section = getSection(0); - var firstToolNumber = section.getTool().number; - if (tool.number != firstToolNumber) { - writeBlock("T" + toolFormat.format(firstToolNumber)); - } - } - } - } - - if (!isProbeOperation() && - !isInspectionOperation(currentSection) && - (insertToolCall || - forceSpindleSpeed || - isFirstSection() || - (rpmFormat.areDifferent(spindleSpeed, sOutput.getCurrent())) || - (tool.clockwise != getPreviousSection().getTool().clockwise))) { - forceSpindleSpeed = false; - - if (spindleSpeed < 1) { - error(localize("Spindle speed out of range.")); - return; - } - if (spindleSpeed > 99999) { - warning(localize("Spindle speed exceeds maximum value.")); - } - var tapping = hasParameter("operation:cycleType") && - ((getParameter("operation:cycleType") == "tapping") || - (getParameter("operation:cycleType") == "right-tapping") || - (getParameter("operation:cycleType") == "left-tapping") || - (getParameter("operation:cycleType") == "tapping-with-chip-breaking")); - if (!tapping || (tapping && !(properties.useRigidTapping == "without"))) { - writeBlock( - sOutput.format(spindleSpeed), mFormat.format(tool.clockwise ? 3 : 4) - ); - } - - onCommand(COMMAND_START_CHIP_TRANSPORT); - if (forceMultiAxisIndexing || !is3D() || machineConfiguration.isMultiAxisConfiguration()) { - // writeBlock(mFormat.format(xxx)); // shortest path traverse - } - } - - // wcs - if (insertToolCall) { // force work offset when changing tool - currentWorkOffset = undefined; - } - var workOffset = currentSection.workOffset; - if (workOffset == 0) { - warningOnce(localize("Work offset has not been specified. Using G54 as WCS."), WARNING_WORK_OFFSET); - workOffset = 1; - } - if (workOffset != currentWorkOffset) { - if (cancelTiltFirst) { - cancelWorkPlane(); - } - forceWorkPlane(); - } - if (workOffset > 0) { - if (workOffset > 6) { - var p = workOffset - 6; // 1->... - if (p > 300) { - error(localize("Work offset out of range.")); - return; - } else { - if (workOffset != currentWorkOffset) { - writeBlock(gFormat.format(54.1), "P" + p); // G54.1P - currentWorkOffset = workOffset; - } - } - } else { - if (workOffset != currentWorkOffset) { - writeBlock(gFormat.format(53 + workOffset)); // G54->G59 - currentWorkOffset = workOffset; - } - } - } - - forceXYZ(); - - var abc = defineWorkPlane(currentSection, true); - - // set coolant after we have positioned at Z - setCoolant(tool.coolant); - - if (properties.useSmoothing) { - if (hasParameter("operation-strategy") && (getParameter("operation-strategy") != "drill")) { - if (setSmoothing(true)) { - // we force G43 using lengthCompensationActive - } - } else { - if (setSmoothing(false)) { - // we force G43 using lengthCompensationActive - } - } - } - - forceAny(); - gMotionModal.reset(); - - var initialPosition = getFramePosition(currentSection.getInitialPosition()); - if (!retracted && !insertToolCall) { - if (getCurrentPosition().z < initialPosition.z) { - writeBlock(gMotionModal.format(0), zOutput.format(initialPosition.z)); - zIsOutput = true; - } - } - - if (insertToolCall || !lengthCompensationActive || retracted || (!isFirstSection() && getPreviousSection().isMultiAxis())) { - var lengthOffset = tool.lengthOffset; - if (lengthOffset > 99) { - error(localize("Length offset out of range.")); - return; - } - - gMotionModal.reset(); - writeBlock(gPlaneModal.format(17)); - - // cancel compensation prior to enabling it, required when switching G43/G43.4 modes - disableLengthCompensation(false); - - // assumes a Head configuration uses TCP on a Fanuc controller - var offsetCode = 43; - if (currentSection.isMultiAxis()) { - if (machineConfiguration.isMultiAxisConfiguration() && (currentSection.getOptimizedTCPMode() == 0)) { - offsetCode = 43.4; - } else if (!machineConfiguration.isMultiAxisConfiguration()) { - offsetCode = 43.5; - } - } - - if (!machineConfiguration.isHeadConfiguration()) { - writeBlock( - gAbsIncModal.format(90), - gMotionModal.format(0), xOutput.format(initialPosition.x), yOutput.format(initialPosition.y) - ); - writeBlock( - gMotionModal.format(0), - gFormat.format(offsetCode), - zOutput.format(initialPosition.z), - hFormat.format(lengthOffset) - ); - lengthCompensationActive = true; - } else { - writeBlock( - gAbsIncModal.format(90), - gMotionModal.format(0), - gFormat.format(offsetCode), - xOutput.format(initialPosition.x), - yOutput.format(initialPosition.y), - zOutput.format(initialPosition.z), hFormat.format(lengthOffset) - ); - lengthCompensationActive = true; - } - zIsOutput = true; - - gMotionModal.reset(); - } else { - writeBlock( - gAbsIncModal.format(90), - gMotionModal.format(0), - xOutput.format(initialPosition.x), - yOutput.format(initialPosition.y) - ); - } - - validate(lengthCompensationActive, "Length compensation is not active."); - - if (properties.useParametricFeed && - hasParameter("operation-strategy") && - (getParameter("operation-strategy") != "drill") && // legacy - !(currentSection.hasAnyCycle && currentSection.hasAnyCycle())) { - if (!insertToolCall && - activeMovements && - (getCurrentSectionId() > 0) && - ((getPreviousSection().getPatternId() == currentSection.getPatternId()) && (currentSection.getPatternId() != 0))) { - // use the current feeds - } else { - initializeActiveFeeds(); - } - } else { - activeMovements = undefined; - } - - if (isProbeOperation()) { - if (g68RotationMode != 0) { - error(localize("You cannot probe while G68 Rotation is in effect.")); - return; - } - angularProbingMode = getAngularProbingMode(); - writeBlock(gFormat.format(65), "P" + 9832); // spin the probe on - } - - // surface Inspection - if (isInspectionOperation(currentSection) && (typeof inspectionProcessSectionStart == "function")) { - inspectionProcessSectionStart(); - } - - // define subprogram - subprogramDefine(initialPosition, abc, retracted, zIsOutput); - - retracted = false; -} - -function onDwell(seconds) { - if (seconds > 99999.999) { - warning(localize("Dwelling time is out of range.")); - } - milliseconds = clamp(1, seconds * 1000, 99999999); - writeBlock(gFeedModeModal.format(94), gFormat.format(4), "P" + milliFormat.format(milliseconds)); - writeBlock(gFeedModeModal.format(properties.useG95 ? 95 : 94)); // back to G95 -} - -function onSpindleSpeed(spindleSpeed) { - writeBlock(sOutput.format(spindleSpeed)); -} - -function onCycle() { - writeBlock(gPlaneModal.format(17)); -} - -function getCommonCycle(x, y, z, r, c) { - forceXYZ(); // force xyz on first drill hole of any cycle - if (incrementalMode) { - zOutput.format(c); - return [xOutput.format(x), yOutput.format(y), - "Z" + xyzFormat.format(z - r), - "R" + xyzFormat.format(r - c)]; - } else { - return [xOutput.format(x), yOutput.format(y), - zOutput.format(z), - "R" + xyzFormat.format(r)]; - } -} - -function setCyclePosition(_position) { - switch (gPlaneModal.getCurrent()) { - case 17: // XY - zOutput.format(_position); - break; - case 18: // ZX - yOutput.format(_position); - break; - case 19: // YZ - xOutput.format(_position); - break; - } -} - -/** Convert approach to sign. */ -function approach(value) { - validate((value == "positive") || (value == "negative"), "Invalid approach."); - return (value == "positive") ? 1 : -1; -} - -/** - Determine if angular probing is supported -*/ -function getAngularProbingMode() { - if (machineConfiguration.isMultiAxisConfiguration()) { - if (machineConfiguration.isMachineCoordinate(2)) { - return ANGLE_PROBE_USE_CAXIS; - } else { - return ANGLE_PROBE_NOT_SUPPORTED; - } - } else { - return ANGLE_PROBE_USE_ROTATION; - } -} - -/** - Output rotation offset based on angular probing cycle. -*/ -function setProbingAngle() { - if ((g68RotationMode == 1) || (g68RotationMode == 2)) { // Rotate coordinate system for Angle Probing - if (!properties.useG54x4) { - gRotationModal.reset(); - gAbsIncModal.reset(); - writeBlock( - gRotationModal.format(68), gAbsIncModal.format(90), - (g68RotationMode == 1) ? "X0" : "X[#135]", - (g68RotationMode == 1) ? "Y0" : "Y[#136]", - "Z0", "I0.0", "J0.0", "K1.0", "R[#139]" - ); - g68RotationMode = 3; - } else if (angularProbingMode != ANGLE_PROBE_NOT_SUPPORTED) { - writeBlock("#26010=#135"); - writeBlock("#26011=#136"); - writeBlock("#26012=#137"); - writeBlock("#26015=#139"); - writeBlock(gFormat.format(54.4), "P1"); - g68RotationMode = 0; - } else { - error(localize("Angular probing is not supported for this machine configuration.")); - return; - } - } -} - -function protectedProbeMove(_cycle, x, y, z) { - var _x = xOutput.format(x); - var _y = yOutput.format(y); - var _z = zOutput.format(z); - if (_z && z >= getCurrentPosition().z) { - writeBlock(gFormat.format(65), "P" + 9810, _z, getFeed(cycle.feedrate)); // protected positioning move - } - if (_x || _y) { - writeBlock(gFormat.format(65), "P" + 9810, _x, _y, getFeed(highFeedrate)); // protected positioning move - } - if (_z && z < getCurrentPosition().z) { - writeBlock(gFormat.format(65), "P" + 9810, _z, getFeed(cycle.feedrate)); // protected positioning move - } -} - -function onCyclePoint(x, y, z) { - if (cycleType == "inspect") { - if (typeof inspectionCycleInspect == "function") { - inspectionCycleInspect(cycle, x, y, z); - return; - } else { - cycleNotSupported(); - } - } - if (!isSameDirection(getRotation().forward, new Vector(0, 0, 1))) { - expandCyclePoint(x, y, z); - return; - } - var probeWorkOffsetCode; - if (isProbeOperation()) { - if (!useMultiAxisFeatures && !isSameDirection(currentSection.workPlane.forward, new Vector(0, 0, 1)) && (!cycle.probeMode || (cycle.probeMode == 0))) { - error(localize("Updating WCS / work offset using probing is only supported by the CNC in the WCS frame.")); - return; - } - protectedProbeMove(cycle, x, y, z); - - var workOffset = probeOutputWorkOffset ? probeOutputWorkOffset : currentWorkOffset; - if (workOffset > 99) { - error(localize("Work offset is out of range.")); - return; - } else if (workOffset > 6) { - probeWorkOffsetCode = probe100Format.format(workOffset - 6 + 100); - } else { - probeWorkOffsetCode = workOffset + "."; // G54->G59 - } - } - - if (isFirstCyclePoint() || isProbeOperation()) { - if (!isProbeOperation()) { - // return to initial Z which is clearance plane and set absolute mode - repositionToCycleClearance(cycle, x, y, z); - } - - var F = cycle.feedrate; - if (properties.useG95) { - F /= spindleSpeed; - } - var P = !cycle.dwell ? 0 : clamp(1, cycle.dwell * 1000, 99999999); // in milliseconds - - var forceCycle = false; - switch (cycleType) { - case "drilling": - writeBlock( - gRetractModal.format(98), gCycleModal.format(81), - getCommonCycle(x, y, z, cycle.retract, cycle.clearance), - feedOutput.format(F) - ); - break; - case "counter-boring": - if (P > 0) { - writeBlock( - gRetractModal.format(98), gCycleModal.format(82), - getCommonCycle(x, y, z, cycle.retract, cycle.clearance), - "P" + milliFormat.format(P), - feedOutput.format(F) - ); - } else { - writeBlock( - gRetractModal.format(98), gCycleModal.format(81), - getCommonCycle(x, y, z, cycle.retract, cycle.clearance), - feedOutput.format(F) - ); - } - break; - case "chip-breaking": - if ((cycle.accumulatedDepth < cycle.depth) || (P > 0)) { - expandCyclePoint(x, y, z); - } else { - writeBlock( - gRetractModal.format(98), gCycleModal.format(73), - getCommonCycle(x, y, z, cycle.retract, cycle.clearance), - peckOutput.format(cycle.incrementalDepth), - feedOutput.format(F) - ); - } - break; - case "deep-drilling": - if (P > 0) { - expandCyclePoint(x, y, z); - } else { - writeBlock( - gRetractModal.format(98), gCycleModal.format(83), - getCommonCycle(x, y, z, cycle.retract, cycle.clearance), - peckOutput.format(cycle.incrementalDepth), - // conditional(P > 0, "P" + milliFormat.format(P)), - feedOutput.format(F) - ); - } - break; - case "tapping": - if (properties.useRigidTapping != "no") { - writeBlock(mFormat.format(29), sOutput.format(spindleSpeed)); - } - if (properties.usePitchForTapping) { - writeBlock( - gRetractModal.format(98), gFeedModeModal.format(95), gCycleModal.format((tool.type == TOOL_TAP_LEFT_HAND) ? 74 : 84), - getCommonCycle(x, y, z, cycle.retract, cycle.clearance), - "P" + milliFormat.format(P), - pitchOutput.format(tool.threadPitch) - ); - forceFeed(); - } else { - var tappingFPM = tool.getThreadPitch() * rpmFormat.getResultingValue(spindleSpeed); - F = (properties.useG95 ? tool.getThreadPitch() : tappingFPM); - writeBlock( - gRetractModal.format(98), gCycleModal.format((tool.type == TOOL_TAP_LEFT_HAND) ? 74 : 84), - getCommonCycle(x, y, z, cycle.retract, cycle.clearance), - "P" + milliFormat.format(P), - feedOutput.format(F) - ); - } - break; - case "left-tapping": - if (properties.useRigidTapping != "no") { - writeBlock(mFormat.format(29), sOutput.format(spindleSpeed)); - } - if (properties.usePitchForTapping) { - writeBlock( - gRetractModal.format(98), gFeedModeModal.format(95), gCycleModal.format(74), - getCommonCycle(x, y, z, cycle.retract, cycle.clearance), - "P" + milliFormat.format(P), - pitchOutput.format(tool.threadPitch) - ); - forceFeed(); - } else { - var tappingFPM = tool.getThreadPitch() * rpmFormat.getResultingValue(spindleSpeed); - F = (properties.useG95 ? tool.getThreadPitch() : tappingFPM); - writeBlock( - gRetractModal.format(98), gCycleModal.format(74), - getCommonCycle(x, y, z, cycle.retract, cycle.clearance), - "P" + milliFormat.format(P), - feedOutput.format(F) - ); - } - break; - case "right-tapping": - if (properties.useRigidTapping != "no") { - writeBlock(mFormat.format(29), sOutput.format(spindleSpeed)); - } - if (properties.usePitchForTapping) { - writeBlock( - gRetractModal.format(98), gFeedModeModal.format(95), gCycleModal.format(84), - getCommonCycle(x, y, z, cycle.retract, cycle.clearance), - "P" + milliFormat.format(P), - pitchOutput.format(tool.threadPitch) - ); - forceFeed(); - } else { - var tappingFPM = tool.getThreadPitch() * rpmFormat.getResultingValue(spindleSpeed); - F = (properties.useG95 ? tool.getThreadPitch() : tappingFPM); - writeBlock( - gRetractModal.format(98), gCycleModal.format(84), - getCommonCycle(x, y, z, cycle.retract, cycle.clearance), - "P" + milliFormat.format(P), - feedOutput.format(F) - ); - } - break; - case "tapping-with-chip-breaking": - case "left-tapping-with-chip-breaking": - case "right-tapping-with-chip-breaking": - if (cycle.accumulatedDepth < cycle.depth) { - error(localize("Accumulated pecking depth is not supported for tapping cycles with chip breaking.")); - return; - } else { - if (properties.useRigidTapping != "no") { - writeBlock(mFormat.format(29), sOutput.format(spindleSpeed)); - } - if (properties.usePitchForTapping) { - writeBlock( - gRetractModal.format(98), gFeedModeModal.format(95), gCycleModal.format((tool.type == TOOL_TAP_LEFT_HAND ? 74 : 84)), - getCommonCycle(x, y, z, cycle.retract, cycle.clearance), - "P" + milliFormat.format(P), - peckOutput.format(cycle.incrementalDepth), - pitchOutput.format(tool.threadPitch) - ); - forceFeed(); - } else { - var tappingFPM = tool.getThreadPitch() * rpmFormat.getResultingValue(spindleSpeed); - F = (properties.useG95 ? tool.getThreadPitch() : tappingFPM); - writeBlock( - gRetractModal.format(98), gCycleModal.format((tool.type == TOOL_TAP_LEFT_HAND ? 74 : 84)), - getCommonCycle(x, y, z, cycle.retract, cycle.clearance), - "P" + milliFormat.format(P), - peckOutput.format(cycle.incrementalDepth), - feedOutput.format(F) - ); - } - } - break; - case "fine-boring": - writeBlock( - gRetractModal.format(98), gCycleModal.format(76), - getCommonCycle(x, y, z, cycle.retract, cycle.clearance), - "P" + milliFormat.format(P), // not optional - "Q" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.shift), - feedOutput.format(F) - ); - break; - case "back-boring": - var dx = (gPlaneModal.getCurrent() == 19) ? cycle.backBoreDistance : 0; - var dy = (gPlaneModal.getCurrent() == 18) ? cycle.backBoreDistance : 0; - var dz = (gPlaneModal.getCurrent() == 17) ? cycle.backBoreDistance : 0; - writeBlock( - gRetractModal.format(98), gCycleModal.format(87), - getCommonCycle(x - dx, y - dy, z - dz, cycle.bottom, cycle.clearance), - "Q" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.shift), - "P" + milliFormat.format(P), // not optional - feedOutput.format(F) - ); - break; - case "reaming": - if (P > 0) { - writeBlock( - gRetractModal.format(98), gCycleModal.format(89), - getCommonCycle(x, y, z, cycle.retract, cycle.clearance), - "P" + milliFormat.format(P), - feedOutput.format(F) - ); - } else { - writeBlock( - gRetractModal.format(98), gCycleModal.format(85), - getCommonCycle(x, y, z, cycle.retract, cycle.clearance), - feedOutput.format(F) - ); - } - break; - case "stop-boring": - if (P > 0) { - expandCyclePoint(x, y, z); - } else { - writeBlock( - gRetractModal.format(98), gCycleModal.format(86), - getCommonCycle(x, y, z, cycle.retract, cycle.clearance), - feedOutput.format(F) - ); - } - break; - case "manual-boring": - writeBlock( - gRetractModal.format(98), gCycleModal.format(88), - getCommonCycle(x, y, z, cycle.retract, cycle.clearance), - "P" + milliFormat.format(P), // not optional - feedOutput.format(F) - ); - break; - case "boring": - if (P > 0) { - writeBlock( - gRetractModal.format(98), gCycleModal.format(89), - getCommonCycle(x, y, z, cycle.retract, cycle.clearance), - "P" + milliFormat.format(P), // not optional - feedOutput.format(F) - ); - } else { - writeBlock( - gRetractModal.format(98), gCycleModal.format(85), - getCommonCycle(x, y, z, cycle.retract, cycle.clearance), - feedOutput.format(F) - ); - } - break; - - case "probing-x": - protectedProbeMove(cycle, x, y, z - cycle.depth); - writeBlock( - gFormat.format(65), "P" + 9811, - "X" + xyzFormat.format(x + approach(cycle.approach1) * (cycle.probeClearance + tool.diameter / 2)), - "Q" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeOvertravel), - getProbingArguments(cycle, probeWorkOffsetCode) - ); - break; - case "probing-y": - protectedProbeMove(cycle, x, y, z - cycle.depth); - writeBlock( - gFormat.format(65), "P" + 9811, - "Y" + xyzFormat.format(y + approach(cycle.approach1) * (cycle.probeClearance + tool.diameter / 2)), - "Q" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeOvertravel), - getProbingArguments(cycle, probeWorkOffsetCode) - ); - break; - case "probing-z": - protectedProbeMove(cycle, x, y, Math.min(z - cycle.depth + cycle.probeClearance, cycle.retract)); - writeBlock( - gFormat.format(65), "P" + 9811, - "Z" + xyzFormat.format(z - cycle.depth), - "Q" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeOvertravel), - getProbingArguments(cycle, probeWorkOffsetCode) - ); - break; - case "probing-x-wall": - protectedProbeMove(cycle, x, y, z); - writeBlock( - gFormat.format(65), "P" + 9812, - "X" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.width1), - zOutput.format(z - cycle.depth), - "Q" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeOvertravel), - "R" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeClearance), - getProbingArguments(cycle, probeWorkOffsetCode) - ); - break; - case "probing-y-wall": - protectedProbeMove(cycle, x, y, z); - writeBlock( - gFormat.format(65), "P" + 9812, - "Y" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.width1), - zOutput.format(z - cycle.depth), - "Q" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeOvertravel), - "R" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeClearance), - getProbingArguments(cycle, probeWorkOffsetCode) - ); - break; - case "probing-x-channel": - protectedProbeMove(cycle, x, y, z - cycle.depth); - writeBlock( - gFormat.format(65), "P" + 9812, - "X" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.width1), - "Q" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeOvertravel), - // not required "R" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeClearance), - getProbingArguments(cycle, probeWorkOffsetCode) - ); - break; - case "probing-x-channel-with-island": - protectedProbeMove(cycle, x, y, z); - writeBlock( - gFormat.format(65), "P" + 9812, - "X" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.width1), - zOutput.format(z - cycle.depth), - "Q" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeOvertravel), - "R" + xyzFormat.format(-cycle.probeClearance), - getProbingArguments(cycle, probeWorkOffsetCode) - ); - break; - case "probing-y-channel": - protectedProbeMove(cycle, x, y, z - cycle.depth); - writeBlock( - gFormat.format(65), "P" + 9812, - "Y" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.width1), - "Q" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeOvertravel), - // not required "R" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeClearance), - getProbingArguments(cycle, probeWorkOffsetCode) - ); - break; - case "probing-y-channel-with-island": - protectedProbeMove(cycle, x, y, z); - writeBlock( - gFormat.format(65), "P" + 9812, - "Y" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.width1), - zOutput.format(z - cycle.depth), - "Q" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeOvertravel), - "R" + xyzFormat.format(-cycle.probeClearance), - getProbingArguments(cycle, probeWorkOffsetCode) - ); - break; - case "probing-xy-circular-boss": - protectedProbeMove(cycle, x, y, z); - writeBlock( - gFormat.format(65), "P" + 9814, - "D" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.width1), - "Z" + xyzFormat.format(z - cycle.depth), - "Q" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeOvertravel), - "R" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeClearance), - getProbingArguments(cycle, probeWorkOffsetCode) - ); - break; - case "probing-xy-circular-hole": - protectedProbeMove(cycle, x, y, z - cycle.depth); - writeBlock( - gFormat.format(65), "P" + 9814, - "D" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.width1), - "Q" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeOvertravel), - // not required "R" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeClearance), - getProbingArguments(cycle, probeWorkOffsetCode) - ); - break; - case "probing-xy-circular-hole-with-island": - protectedProbeMove(cycle, x, y, z); - writeBlock( - gFormat.format(65), "P" + 9814, - "Z" + xyzFormat.format(z - cycle.depth), - "D" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.width1), - "Q" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeOvertravel), - "R" + xyzFormat.format(-cycle.probeClearance), - getProbingArguments(cycle, probeWorkOffsetCode) - ); - break; - case "probing-xy-rectangular-hole": - protectedProbeMove(cycle, x, y, z - cycle.depth); - writeBlock( - gFormat.format(65), "P" + 9812, - "X" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.width1), - "Q" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeOvertravel), - // not required "R" + xyzFormat.format(-cycle.probeClearance), - getProbingArguments(cycle, probeWorkOffsetCode) - ); - writeBlock( - gFormat.format(65), "P" + 9812, - "Y" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.width2), - "Q" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeOvertravel), - // not required "R" + xyzFormat.format(-cycle.probeClearance), - getProbingArguments(cycle, probeWorkOffsetCode) - ); - break; - case "probing-xy-rectangular-boss": - protectedProbeMove(cycle, x, y, z); - writeBlock( - gFormat.format(65), "P" + 9812, - "Z" + xyzFormat.format(z - cycle.depth), - "X" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.width1), - "R" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeClearance), - "Q" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeOvertravel), - getProbingArguments(cycle, probeWorkOffsetCode) - ); - writeBlock( - gFormat.format(65), "P" + 9812, - "Z" + xyzFormat.format(z - cycle.depth), - "Y" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.width2), - "R" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeClearance), - "Q" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeOvertravel), - getProbingArguments(cycle, probeWorkOffsetCode) - ); - break; - case "probing-xy-rectangular-hole-with-island": - protectedProbeMove(cycle, x, y, z); - writeBlock( - gFormat.format(65), "P" + 9812, - "Z" + xyzFormat.format(z - cycle.depth), - "X" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.width1), - "Q" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeOvertravel), - "R" + xyzFormat.format(-cycle.probeClearance), - getProbingArguments(cycle, probeWorkOffsetCode) - ); - writeBlock( - gFormat.format(65), "P" + 9812, - "Z" + xyzFormat.format(z - cycle.depth), - "Y" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.width2), - "Q" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeOvertravel), - "R" + xyzFormat.format(-cycle.probeClearance), - getProbingArguments(cycle, probeWorkOffsetCode) - ); - break; - - case "probing-xy-inner-corner": - var cornerX = x + approach(cycle.approach1) * (cycle.probeClearance + tool.diameter / 2); - var cornerY = y + approach(cycle.approach2) * (cycle.probeClearance + tool.diameter / 2); - var cornerI = 0; - var cornerJ = 0; - if (cycle.probeSpacing !== undefined) { - cornerI = cycle.probeSpacing; - cornerJ = cycle.probeSpacing; - } - if ((cornerI != 0) && (cornerJ != 0)) { - g68RotationMode = 2; - } - protectedProbeMove(cycle, x, y, z - cycle.depth); - writeBlock( - gFormat.format(65), "P" + 9815, xOutput.format(cornerX), yOutput.format(cornerY), - conditional(cornerI != 0, "I" + xyzFormat.format(cornerI)), - conditional(cornerJ != 0, "J" + xyzFormat.format(cornerJ)), - "Q" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeOvertravel), - conditional((g68RotationMode == 0) || (angularProbingMode == ANGLE_PROBE_USE_CAXIS), getProbingArguments(cycle, probeWorkOffsetCode)) - ); - break; - case "probing-xy-outer-corner": - var cornerX = x + approach(cycle.approach1) * (cycle.probeClearance + tool.diameter / 2); - var cornerY = y + approach(cycle.approach2) * (cycle.probeClearance + tool.diameter / 2); - var cornerI = 0; - var cornerJ = 0; - if (cycle.probeSpacing !== undefined) { - cornerI = cycle.probeSpacing; - cornerJ = cycle.probeSpacing; - } - if ((cornerI != 0) && (cornerJ != 0)) { - g68RotationMode = 2; - } - protectedProbeMove(cycle, x, y, z - cycle.depth); - writeBlock( - gFormat.format(65), "P" + 9816, xOutput.format(cornerX), yOutput.format(cornerY), - conditional(cornerI != 0, "I" + xyzFormat.format(cornerI)), - conditional(cornerJ != 0, "J" + xyzFormat.format(cornerJ)), - "Q" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeOvertravel), - conditional((g68RotationMode == 0) || (angularProbingMode == ANGLE_PROBE_USE_CAXIS), getProbingArguments(cycle, probeWorkOffsetCode)) - ); - break; - case "probing-x-plane-angle": - protectedProbeMove(cycle, x, y, z - cycle.depth); - writeBlock( - gFormat.format(65), "P" + 9843, - "X" + xyzFormat.format(x + approach(cycle.approach1) * (cycle.probeClearance + tool.diameter / 2)), - "D" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeSpacing), - "Q" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeOvertravel), - getProbingArguments(cycle, false) - ); - g68RotationMode = 1; - break; - case "probing-y-plane-angle": - protectedProbeMove(cycle, x, y, z - cycle.depth); - writeBlock( - gFormat.format(65), "P" + 9843, - "Y" + xyzFormat.format(y + approach(cycle.approach1) * (cycle.probeClearance + tool.diameter / 2)), - "D" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeSpacing), - "Q" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.probeOvertravel), - getProbingArguments(cycle, false) - ); - g68RotationMode = 1; - break; - default: - expandCyclePoint(x, y, z); - } - - // place cycle operation in subprogram - if (cycleSubprogramIsActive) { - if (forceCycle || cycleExpanded || isProbeOperation()) { - cycleSubprogramIsActive = false; - } else { - // call subprogram - writeBlock(mFormat.format(98), "P" + oFormat.format(currentSubprogram)); - subprogramStart(new Vector(x, y, z), new Vector(0, 0, 0), false); - } - } - if (incrementalMode) { // set current position to clearance height - setCyclePosition(cycle.clearance); - } - - // 2nd through nth cycle point - } else { - if (cycleExpanded) { - expandCyclePoint(x, y, z); - } else { - if (!xyzFormat.areDifferent(x, xOutput.getCurrent()) && - !xyzFormat.areDifferent(y, yOutput.getCurrent()) && - !xyzFormat.areDifferent(z, zOutput.getCurrent())) { - switch (gPlaneModal.getCurrent()) { - case 17: // XY - xOutput.reset(); // at least one axis is required - break; - case 18: // ZX - zOutput.reset(); // at least one axis is required - break; - case 19: // YZ - yOutput.reset(); // at least one axis is required - break; - } - } - if (incrementalMode) { // set current position to retract height - setCyclePosition(cycle.retract); - } - writeBlock(xOutput.format(x), yOutput.format(y), zOutput.format(z)); - if (incrementalMode) { // set current position to clearance height - setCyclePosition(cycle.clearance); - } - } - } -} - -function getProbingArguments(cycle, probeWorkOffsetCode) { - var probeWCS = hasParameter("operation-strategy") && (getParameter("operation-strategy") == "probe"); - return [ - (cycle.angleAskewAction == "stop-message" ? "B" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.toleranceAngle ? cycle.toleranceAngle : 0) : undefined), - ((cycle.updateToolWear && cycle.toolWearErrorCorrection < 100) ? "F" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.toolWearErrorCorrection ? cycle.toolWearErrorCorrection / 100 : 100) : undefined), - (cycle.wrongSizeAction == "stop-message" ? "H" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.toleranceSize ? cycle.toleranceSize : 0) : undefined), - (cycle.outOfPositionAction == "stop-message" ? "M" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.tolerancePosition ? cycle.tolerancePosition : 0) : undefined), - ((cycle.updateToolWear && cycleType == "probing-z") ? "T" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.toolLengthOffset) : undefined), - ((cycle.updateToolWear && cycleType !== "probing-z") ? "T" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.toolDiameterOffset) : undefined), - (cycle.updateToolWear ? "V" + xyzFormat.format(cycle.toolWearUpdateThreshold ? cycle.toolWearUpdateThreshold : 0) : undefined), - (cycle.printResults ? "W" + xyzFormat.format(1 + cycle.incrementComponent) : undefined), // 1 for advance feature, 2 for reset feature count and advance component number. first reported result in a program should use W2. - conditional(probeWorkOffsetCode && probeWCS, "S" + probeWorkOffsetCode) - ]; -} - -function onCycleEnd() { - if (isProbeOperation()) { - zOutput.reset(); - gMotionModal.reset(); - writeBlock(gFormat.format(65), "P" + 9810, zOutput.format(cycle.retract)); // protected retract move - } else { - if (cycleSubprogramIsActive) { - subprogramEnd(); - cycleSubprogramIsActive = false; - } - if (!cycleExpanded) { - writeBlock(conditional(!properties.useG95, gFeedModeModal.format(94)), gCycleModal.format(80)); - zOutput.reset(); - } - } -} - -var pendingRadiusCompensation = -1; - -function onRadiusCompensation() { - pendingRadiusCompensation = radiusCompensation; -} - -function onRapid(_x, _y, _z) { - var x = xOutput.format(_x); - var y = yOutput.format(_y); - var z = zOutput.format(_z); - if (x || y || z) { - if (pendingRadiusCompensation >= 0) { - error(localize("Radius compensation mode cannot be changed at rapid traversal.")); - return; - } - writeBlock(gMotionModal.format(0), x, y, z); - forceFeed(); - } -} - -function onLinear(_x, _y, _z, feed) { - var x = xOutput.format(_x); - var y = yOutput.format(_y); - var z = zOutput.format(_z); - var f = getFeed(feed); - if (x || y || z) { - if (pendingRadiusCompensation >= 0) { - pendingRadiusCompensation = -1; - var d = tool.diameterOffset; - if (d > 99) { - warning(localize("The diameter offset exceeds the maximum value.")); - } - writeBlock(gPlaneModal.format(17)); - switch (radiusCompensation) { - case RADIUS_COMPENSATION_LEFT: - dOutput.reset(); - writeBlock(gMotionModal.format(1), gFormat.format(41), x, y, z, dOutput.format(d), f); - break; - case RADIUS_COMPENSATION_RIGHT: - dOutput.reset(); - writeBlock(gMotionModal.format(1), gFormat.format(42), x, y, z, dOutput.format(d), f); - break; - default: - writeBlock(gMotionModal.format(1), gFormat.format(40), x, y, z, f); - } - } else { - writeBlock(gMotionModal.format(1), x, y, z, f); - } - } else if (f) { - if (getNextRecord().isMotion()) { // try not to output feed without motion - forceFeed(); // force feed on next line - } else { - writeBlock(gMotionModal.format(1), f); - } - } -} - -function onRapid5D(_x, _y, _z, _a, _b, _c) { - if (pendingRadiusCompensation >= 0) { - error(localize("Radius compensation mode cannot be changed at rapid traversal.")); - return; - } - if (currentSection.isOptimizedForMachine()) { - var x = xOutput.format(_x); - var y = yOutput.format(_y); - var z = zOutput.format(_z); - var a = aOutput.format(_a); - var b = bOutput.format(_b); - var c = cOutput.format(_c); - writeBlock(gMotionModal.format(0), x, y, z, a, b, c); - } else { - forceXYZ(); - var x = xOutput.format(_x); - var y = yOutput.format(_y); - var z = zOutput.format(_z); - var i = ijkFormat.format(_a); - var j = ijkFormat.format(_b); - var k = ijkFormat.format(_c); - writeBlock(gMotionModal.format(0), x, y, z, "I" + i, "J" + j, "K" + k); - } - forceFeed(); -} - -function onLinear5D(_x, _y, _z, _a, _b, _c, feed) { - if (pendingRadiusCompensation >= 0) { - error(localize("Radius compensation cannot be activated/deactivated for 5-axis move.")); - return; - } - - if (currentSection.isOptimizedForMachine()) { - var x = xOutput.format(_x); - var y = yOutput.format(_y); - var z = zOutput.format(_z); - var a = aOutput.format(_a); - var b = bOutput.format(_b); - var c = cOutput.format(_c); - var f = getFeed(feed); - if (x || y || z || a || b || c) { - writeBlock(gMotionModal.format(1), x, y, z, a, b, c, f); - } else if (f) { - if (getNextRecord().isMotion()) { // try not to output feed without motion - forceFeed(); // force feed on next line - } else { - writeBlock(gMotionModal.format(1), f); - } - } - } else { - forceXYZ(); - var x = xOutput.format(_x); - var y = yOutput.format(_y); - var z = zOutput.format(_z); - var i = ijkFormat.format(_a); - var j = ijkFormat.format(_b); - var k = ijkFormat.format(_c); - var f = getFeed(feed); - if (x || y || z || i || j || k) { - writeBlock(gMotionModal.format(1), x, y, z, "I" + i, "J" + j, "K" + k, f); - } else if (f) { - if (getNextRecord().isMotion()) { // try not to output feed without motion - forceFeed(); // force feed on next line - } else { - writeBlock(gMotionModal.format(1), f); - } - } - } -} - -function onCircular(clockwise, cx, cy, cz, x, y, z, feed) { - if (pendingRadiusCompensation >= 0) { - error(localize("Radius compensation cannot be activated/deactivated for a circular move.")); - return; - } - - var start = getCurrentPosition(); - - if (isFullCircle()) { - if (properties.useRadius || isHelical()) { // radius mode does not support full arcs - linearize(tolerance); - return; - } - switch (getCircularPlane()) { - case PLANE_XY: - writeBlock(gPlaneModal.format(17), gMotionModal.format(clockwise ? 2 : 3), iOutput.format(cx - start.x, 0), jOutput.format(cy - start.y, 0), getFeed(feed)); - break; - case PLANE_ZX: - writeBlock(gPlaneModal.format(18), gMotionModal.format(clockwise ? 2 : 3), iOutput.format(cx - start.x, 0), kOutput.format(cz - start.z, 0), getFeed(feed)); - break; - case PLANE_YZ: - writeBlock(gPlaneModal.format(19), gMotionModal.format(clockwise ? 2 : 3), jOutput.format(cy - start.y, 0), kOutput.format(cz - start.z, 0), getFeed(feed)); - break; - default: - linearize(tolerance); - } - } else if (!properties.useRadius) { - switch (getCircularPlane()) { - case PLANE_XY: - writeBlock(gPlaneModal.format(17), gMotionModal.format(clockwise ? 2 : 3), xOutput.format(x), yOutput.format(y), zOutput.format(z), iOutput.format(cx - start.x, 0), jOutput.format(cy - start.y, 0), getFeed(feed)); - break; - case PLANE_ZX: - writeBlock(gPlaneModal.format(18), gMotionModal.format(clockwise ? 2 : 3), xOutput.format(x), yOutput.format(y), zOutput.format(z), iOutput.format(cx - start.x, 0), kOutput.format(cz - start.z, 0), getFeed(feed)); - break; - case PLANE_YZ: - writeBlock(gPlaneModal.format(19), gMotionModal.format(clockwise ? 2 : 3), xOutput.format(x), yOutput.format(y), zOutput.format(z), jOutput.format(cy - start.y, 0), kOutput.format(cz - start.z, 0), getFeed(feed)); - break; - default: - if (properties.allow3DArcs) { - // make sure maximumCircularSweep is well below 360deg - // we could use G02.4 or G03.4 - direction is calculated - var ip = getPositionU(0.5); - writeBlock(gMotionModal.format(clockwise ? 2.4 : 3.4), xOutput.format(ip.x), yOutput.format(ip.y), zOutput.format(ip.z), getFeed(feed)); - writeBlock(xOutput.format(x), yOutput.format(y), zOutput.format(z)); - } else { - linearize(tolerance); - } - } - } else { // use radius mode - var r = getCircularRadius(); - if (toDeg(getCircularSweep()) > (180 + 1e-9)) { - r = -r; // allow up to <360 deg arcs - } - switch (getCircularPlane()) { - case PLANE_XY: - writeBlock(gPlaneModal.format(17), gMotionModal.format(clockwise ? 2 : 3), xOutput.format(x), yOutput.format(y), zOutput.format(z), "R" + rFormat.format(r), getFeed(feed)); - break; - case PLANE_ZX: - writeBlock(gPlaneModal.format(18), gMotionModal.format(clockwise ? 2 : 3), xOutput.format(x), yOutput.format(y), zOutput.format(z), "R" + rFormat.format(r), getFeed(feed)); - break; - case PLANE_YZ: - writeBlock(gPlaneModal.format(19), gMotionModal.format(clockwise ? 2 : 3), xOutput.format(x), yOutput.format(y), zOutput.format(z), "R" + rFormat.format(r), getFeed(feed)); - break; - default: - if (properties.allow3DArcs) { - // make sure maximumCircularSweep is well below 360deg - // we could use G02.4 or G03.4 - direction is calculated - var ip = getPositionU(0.5); - writeBlock(gMotionModal.format(clockwise ? 2.4 : 3.4), xOutput.format(ip.x), yOutput.format(ip.y), zOutput.format(ip.z), getFeed(feed)); - writeBlock(xOutput.format(x), yOutput.format(y), zOutput.format(z)); - } else { - linearize(tolerance); - } - } - } -} - -var currentCoolantMode = COOLANT_OFF; -var coolantOff = undefined; - -function setCoolant(coolant) { - var coolantCodes = getCoolantCodes(coolant); - if (Array.isArray(coolantCodes)) { - if (singleLineCoolant) { - writeBlock(coolantCodes.join(getWordSeparator())); - } else { - for (var c in coolantCodes) { - writeBlock(coolantCodes[c]); - } - } - return undefined; - } - return coolantCodes; -} - -function getCoolantCodes(coolant) { - var multipleCoolantBlocks = new Array(); // create a formatted array to be passed into the outputted line - if (!coolants) { - error(localize("Coolants have not been defined.")); - } - if (isProbeOperation()) { // avoid coolant output for probing - coolant = COOLANT_OFF; - } - if (coolant == currentCoolantMode) { - return undefined; // coolant is already active - } - if ((coolant != COOLANT_OFF) && (currentCoolantMode != COOLANT_OFF) && (coolantOff != undefined)) { - if (Array.isArray(coolantOff)) { - for (var i in coolantOff) { - multipleCoolantBlocks.push(mFormat.format(coolantOff[i])); - } - } else { - multipleCoolantBlocks.push(mFormat.format(coolantOff)); - } - } - - var m; - var coolantCodes = {}; - for (var c in coolants) { // find required coolant codes into the coolants array - if (coolants[c].id == coolant) { - coolantCodes.on = coolants[c].on; - if (coolants[c].off != undefined) { - coolantCodes.off = coolants[c].off; - break; - } else { - for (var i in coolants) { - if (coolants[i].id == COOLANT_OFF) { - coolantCodes.off = coolants[i].off; - break; - } - } - } - } - } - if (coolant == COOLANT_OFF) { - m = !coolantOff ? coolantCodes.off : coolantOff; // use the default coolant off command when an 'off' value is not specified - } else { - coolantOff = coolantCodes.off; - m = coolantCodes.on; - } - - if (!m) { - onUnsupportedCoolant(coolant); - m = 9; - } else { - if (Array.isArray(m)) { - for (var i in m) { - multipleCoolantBlocks.push(mFormat.format(m[i])); - } - } else { - multipleCoolantBlocks.push(mFormat.format(m)); - } - currentCoolantMode = coolant; - return multipleCoolantBlocks; // return the single formatted coolant value - } - return undefined; -} - -var mapCommand = { - COMMAND_STOP:0, - COMMAND_OPTIONAL_STOP:1, - COMMAND_END:2, - COMMAND_SPINDLE_CLOCKWISE:3, - COMMAND_SPINDLE_COUNTERCLOCKWISE:4, - COMMAND_STOP_SPINDLE:5, - COMMAND_ORIENTATE_SPINDLE:19 -}; - -function onCommand(command) { - switch (command) { - case COMMAND_COOLANT_OFF: - setCoolant(COOLANT_OFF); - return; - case COMMAND_COOLANT_ON: - setCoolant(COOLANT_FLOOD); - return; - case COMMAND_STOP: - writeBlock(mFormat.format(0)); - forceSpindleSpeed = true; - return; - case COMMAND_START_SPINDLE: - onCommand(tool.clockwise ? COMMAND_SPINDLE_CLOCKWISE : COMMAND_SPINDLE_COUNTERCLOCKWISE); - return; - case COMMAND_LOCK_MULTI_AXIS: - return; - case COMMAND_UNLOCK_MULTI_AXIS: - return; - case COMMAND_START_CHIP_TRANSPORT: - return; - case COMMAND_STOP_CHIP_TRANSPORT: - return; - case COMMAND_BREAK_CONTROL: - return; - case COMMAND_TOOL_MEASURE: - return; - case COMMAND_PROBE_ON: - return; - case COMMAND_PROBE_OFF: - return; - } - - var stringId = getCommandStringId(command); - var mcode = mapCommand[stringId]; - if (mcode != undefined) { - writeBlock(mFormat.format(mcode)); - } else { - onUnsupportedCommand(command); - } -} - -function onSectionEnd() { - if (typeof inspectionProcessSectionEnd == "function") { - inspectionProcessSectionEnd(); - } - writeBlock(gPlaneModal.format(17)); - - if (((getCurrentSectionId() + 1) >= getNumberOfSections()) || - (tool.number != getNextSection().getTool().number)) { - onCommand(COMMAND_BREAK_CONTROL); - } - if (!isLastSection() && (getNextSection().getTool().coolant != tool.coolant)) { - setCoolant(COOLANT_OFF); - } - - if (true) { - if (isRedirecting()) { - if (firstPattern) { - var finalPosition = getFramePosition(currentSection.getFinalPosition()); - var abc; - if (currentSection.isMultiAxis() && machineConfiguration.isMultiAxisConfiguration()) { - abc = currentSection.getFinalToolAxisABC(); - } else { - abc = currentWorkPlaneABC; - } - if (abc == undefined) { - abc = new Vector(0, 0, 0); - } - setAbsoluteMode(finalPosition, abc); - subprogramEnd(); - } - } - } - if (isProbeOperation()) { - writeBlock(gFormat.format(65), "P" + 9833); // spin the probe off - setProbingAngle(); // define rotation of part - } - forceAny(); -} - -/** Output block to do safe retract and/or move to home position. */ -function writeRetract() { - // initialize routine - var _xyzMoved = new Array(false, false, false); - var _useG28 = properties.useG28; // can be either true or false - - // check syntax of call - if (arguments.length == 0) { - error(localize("No axis specified for writeRetract().")); - return; - } - for (var i = 0; i < arguments.length; ++i) { - if ((arguments[i] < 0) || (arguments[i] > 2)) { - error(localize("Bad axis specified for writeRetract().")); - return; - } - if (_xyzMoved[arguments[i]]) { - error(localize("Cannot retract the same axis twice in one line")); - return; - } - _xyzMoved[arguments[i]] = true; - } - - // special conditions - - // define home positions - var _xHome; - var _yHome; - var _zHome; - if (_useG28) { - _xHome = 0; - _yHome = 0; - _zHome = 0; - } else { - _xHome = machineConfiguration.hasHomePositionX() ? machineConfiguration.getHomePositionX() : 0; - _yHome = machineConfiguration.hasHomePositionY() ? machineConfiguration.getHomePositionY() : 0; - _zHome = machineConfiguration.getRetractPlane(); - } - - // format home positions - var words = []; // store all retracted axes in an array - for (var i = 0; i < arguments.length; ++i) { - // define the axes to move - switch (arguments[i]) { - case X: - if (!machineConfiguration.hasHomePositionX()) { - _useG28 = true; - } - words.push("X" + xyzFormat.format(_xHome)); - break; - case Y: - if (!machineConfiguration.hasHomePositionY()) { - _useG28 = true; - } - words.push("Y" + xyzFormat.format(_yHome)); - break; - case Z: - words.push("Z" + xyzFormat.format(_zHome)); - retracted = true; - break; - } - } - - // output move to home - if (words.length > 0) { - if (_useG28) { - gAbsIncModal.reset(); - writeBlock(gFormat.format(28), gAbsIncModal.format(91), words); - writeBlock(gAbsIncModal.format(90)); - } else { - gMotionModal.reset(); - writeBlock(gAbsIncModal.format(90), gFormat.format(53), gMotionModal.format(0), words); - } - - // force any axes that move to home on next block - if (_xyzMoved[0]) { - xOutput.reset(); - } - if (_xyzMoved[1]) { - yOutput.reset(); - } - if (_xyzMoved[2]) { - zOutput.reset(); - } - } -} - -function onClose() { - writeln(""); - optionalSection = false; - - onCommand(COMMAND_COOLANT_OFF); - - writeRetract(Z); // retract - - disableLengthCompensation(true); - setSmoothing(false); - zOutput.reset(); - - setWorkPlane(new Vector(0, 0, 0)); // reset working plane - - if (properties.useG54x4) { - writeBlock(gFormat.format(54.4), "P0"); - } - - writeRetract(X, Y); // return to home - - onImpliedCommand(COMMAND_END); - onImpliedCommand(COMMAND_STOP_SPINDLE); - writeBlock(mFormat.format(30)); // stop program, spindle stop, coolant off - if (subprograms.length > 0) { - writeln(""); - write(subprograms); - } - writeln("%"); -} diff --git a/resources/workshop/.inc/saturn/mc/meta/setup-sheet-excel-2007-template.xlsx b/resources/workshop/.inc/saturn/mc/meta/setup-sheet-excel-2007-template.xlsx deleted file mode 100644 index 151919727..000000000 Binary files a/resources/workshop/.inc/saturn/mc/meta/setup-sheet-excel-2007-template.xlsx and /dev/null differ diff --git a/resources/workshop/.inc/saturn/mc/meta/setup-sheet-excel-template.xls b/resources/workshop/.inc/saturn/mc/meta/setup-sheet-excel-template.xls deleted file mode 100644 index bff71e433..000000000 --- a/resources/workshop/.inc/saturn/mc/meta/setup-sheet-excel-template.xls +++ /dev/null @@ -1,1484 +0,0 @@ - - - - - Autodesk CAM - Setup Sheet - Autodesk, Inc. - autodesk cam post processor - 2010-05-28T13:23:03Z - 2010-05-28T12:41:38Z - Autodesk, Inc. - 11.9999 - - - 10005 - 10005 - 120 - 135 - 2 - False - False - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Program - Setup Sheet - Date - - - $program.name - $program.generationTime - - - Comment - Overview - Part - - - $program.comment - $program.partName - - - - - - - Reference - Job - $program.jobDescription - - - Programmer - $program.user - - - Part - DX - $program.partDX - - - DY - $program.partDY - - - DZ - $program.partDZ - - - Stock - DX - #VALUE! - - - DY - #VALUE! - - - DZ - #VALUE! - - - X min - $program.stockLowerX - - - Y min - $program.stockLowerY - - - Z min - $program.stockLowerZ - - - X max - $program.stockUpperX - - - Y max - $program.stockUpperY - - - Z max - $program.stockUpperZ - - - Toolpath - WCS # - $program.workOffset - - - - # Operations - $program.numberOfSections - - - # Tools - $program.numberOfTools - - - Machining Time - $program.cycleTime - - - Feed Distance - $program.cuttingDistance - - - Rapid Distance - $program.rapidDistance - -
- - - -