diff --git a/components/mechanics/motion/hgh/30/HIWIN_20250828_173943/HIWIN_20250828_173943.txt b/components/mechanics/motion/hgh/30/HIWIN_20250828_173943/HIWIN_20250828_173943.txt new file mode 100644 index 000000000..c9c0f32a6 Binary files /dev/null and b/components/mechanics/motion/hgh/30/HIWIN_20250828_173943/HIWIN_20250828_173943.txt differ diff --git a/components/mechanics/motion/hgh/30/HIWIN_20250828_174456-600-3x/HIWIN_20250828_174456.txt b/components/mechanics/motion/hgh/30/HIWIN_20250828_174456-600-3x/HIWIN_20250828_174456.txt new file mode 100644 index 000000000..983912b9b Binary files /dev/null and b/components/mechanics/motion/hgh/30/HIWIN_20250828_174456-600-3x/HIWIN_20250828_174456.txt differ diff --git a/components/shared/electronics/enclosures/vintage-vertical-edc/laser/403_MountPlate_x2_4mm_INOX.DXF b/components/shared/electronics/enclosures/vintage-vertical-edc/laser/403_MountPlate_x2_4mm_INOX.DXF index 88004ab2f..1c098600e 100644 --- a/components/shared/electronics/enclosures/vintage-vertical-edc/laser/403_MountPlate_x2_4mm_INOX.DXF +++ b/components/shared/electronics/enclosures/vintage-vertical-edc/laser/403_MountPlate_x2_4mm_INOX.DXF @@ -445,19 +445,19 @@ $SKPOLY 9 $TDCREATE 40 -2460901.371240926 +2460931.452551968 9 $TDUCREATE 40 -2460901.287907593 +2460931.369218635 9 $TDUPDATE 40 -2460901.371265359 +2460931.452564213 9 $TDUUPDATE 40 -2460901.287932026 +2460931.36923088 9 $TDINDWG 40 @@ -885,7 +885,7 @@ $PSTYLEMODE 9 $FINGERPRINTGUID 2 -{cac2733e-dcbc-409c-9996-cd389ea16b1c} +{b0db3907-f260-425a-9d1b-78dd13aaf10b} 9 $VERSIONGUID 2 @@ -3589,9 +3589,9 @@ zx 40 0.0 41 -2460901.287907593 +2460931.369218635 42 -2460901.287932026 +2460931.36923088 1 90 diff --git a/components/shared/electronics/enclosures/vintage-vertical-edc/laser/450_FlexInterConnect_x4_5mm_Inox.DXF b/components/shared/electronics/enclosures/vintage-vertical-edc/laser/450_FlexInterConnect_x4_5mm_Inox.DXF index 44f53533d..8480347b4 100644 --- a/components/shared/electronics/enclosures/vintage-vertical-edc/laser/450_FlexInterConnect_x4_5mm_Inox.DXF +++ b/components/shared/electronics/enclosures/vintage-vertical-edc/laser/450_FlexInterConnect_x4_5mm_Inox.DXF @@ -445,19 +445,19 @@ $SKPOLY 9 $TDCREATE 40 -2460901.372478958 +2460931.452355093 9 $TDUCREATE 40 -2460901.289145625 +2460931.36902176 9 $TDUPDATE 40 -2460901.372503577 +2460931.452367489 9 $TDUUPDATE 40 -2460901.289170243 +2460931.369034156 9 $TDINDWG 40 @@ -885,7 +885,7 @@ $PSTYLEMODE 9 $FINGERPRINTGUID 2 -{0db345f7-cf0e-4783-b3ef-2f629860e500} +{3af329dc-7284-45ee-b15e-30daeeb4449c} 9 $VERSIONGUID 2 @@ -2357,9 +2357,9 @@ zx 40 0.0 41 -2460901.289145625 +2460931.36902176 42 -2460901.289170243 +2460931.369034156 1 90 diff --git a/components/shared/electronics/enclosures/vintage-vertical-edc/laser/610_FrontPanel-4CH_x1_1mm_INOX.DXF b/components/shared/electronics/enclosures/vintage-vertical-edc/laser/610_FrontPanel-4CH_x1_1mm_INOX.DXF new file mode 100644 index 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$TDUCREATE 40 -2460771.723487477 +2460931.368367558 9 $TDUPDATE 40 -2460771.806832998 +2460931.451713172 9 $TDUUPDATE 40 -2460771.723499665 +2460931.368379838 9 $TDINDWG 40 @@ -505,7 +505,7 @@ $SPLINESEGS 9 $HANDSEED 5 -94 +84 9 $SURFTAB1 70 @@ -885,7 +885,7 @@ $PSTYLEMODE 9 $FINGERPRINTGUID 2 -{9a2c1fff-4407-4653-9552-fd5474d30fb3} +{1828e47f-8e2e-44ce-9a4b-fa0e7aac8711} 9 $VERSIONGUID 2 @@ -2539,15 +2539,15 @@ Continuous 100 AcDbLine 10 -22.5 +-22.4 20 -92.4 +92.5 30 0.0 11 -22.5 +22.4 21 -47.6 +92.5 31 0.0 0 @@ -2567,6 +2567,68 @@ Continuous 370 25 100 +AcDbCircle + 10 +22.4 + 20 +92.4 + 30 +0.0 + 40 +0.1000000000000085 +100 +AcDbArc + 50 +0.0 + 51 +90.0 + 0 +LINE + 5 +7D +330 +1F +100 +AcDbEntity + 8 +0 + 6 +Continuous + 62 + 7 +370 + 25 +100 +AcDbLine + 10 +22.5 + 20 +92.4 + 30 +0.0 + 11 +22.5 + 21 +47.6 + 31 +0.0 + 0 +ARC + 5 +7E +330 +1F +100 +AcDbEntity + 8 +0 + 6 +Continuous + 62 + 7 +370 + 25 +100 AcDbCircle 10 22.4 @@ -2585,7 +2647,7 @@ AcDbArc 0 LINE 5 -7D +7F 330 1F 100 @@ -2615,68 +2677,6 @@ AcDbLine 0 ARC 5 -7E -330 -1F -100 -AcDbEntity - 8 -0 - 6 -Continuous - 62 - 7 -370 - 25 -100 -AcDbCircle - 10 --22.4 - 20 -47.6 - 30 -0.0 - 40 -0.1000000000000014 -100 -AcDbArc - 50 -180.0 - 51 -270.0 - 0 -LINE - 5 -7F -330 -1F -100 -AcDbEntity - 8 -0 - 6 -Continuous - 62 - 7 -370 - 25 -100 -AcDbLine - 10 --22.5 - 20 -47.6 - 30 -0.0 - 11 --22.5 - 21 -92.4 - 31 -0.0 - 0 -ARC - 5 80 330 1F @@ -2695,7 +2695,7 @@ AcDbCircle 10 -22.4 20 -92.4 +47.6 30 0.0 40 @@ -2703,9 +2703,9 @@ AcDbCircle 100 AcDbArc 50 -90.0 - 51 180.0 + 51 +270.0 0 LINE 5 @@ -2725,15 +2725,15 @@ Continuous 100 AcDbLine 10 --22.4 +-22.5 20 -92.5 +47.6 30 0.0 11 -22.4 +-22.5 21 -92.5 +92.4 31 0.0 0 @@ -2755,516 +2755,20 @@ Continuous 100 AcDbCircle 10 -22.4 +-22.4 20 92.4 30 0.0 40 -0.1000000000000014 -100 -AcDbArc - 50 -0.0 - 51 -90.0 - 0 -LINE - 5 -83 -330 -1F -100 -AcDbEntity - 8 -0 - 6 -Continuous - 62 - 7 -370 - 25 -100 -AcDbLine - 10 -22.5 - 20 -32.4 - 30 -0.0 - 11 -22.5 - 21 --12.4 - 31 -0.0 - 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7 -370 - 25 -100 -AcDbLine - 10 --22.4 - 20 -32.5 - 30 -0.0 - 11 -22.4 - 21 -32.5 - 31 -0.0 - 0 -ARC - 5 -8A -330 -1F -100 -AcDbEntity - 8 -0 - 6 -Continuous - 62 - 7 -370 - 25 -100 -AcDbCircle - 10 -22.4 - 20 -32.4 - 30 -0.0 - 40 -0.1000000000000014 -100 -AcDbArc - 50 -0.0 - 51 -90.0 - 0 -LINE - 5 -8B -330 -1F -100 -AcDbEntity - 8 -0 - 6 -Continuous - 62 - 7 -370 - 25 -100 -AcDbLine - 10 -22.5 - 20 --27.6 - 30 -0.0 - 11 -22.5 - 21 --72.4 - 31 -0.0 - 0 -ARC - 5 -8C -330 -1F -100 -AcDbEntity - 8 -0 - 6 -Continuous - 62 - 7 -370 - 25 -100 -AcDbCircle - 10 -22.4 - 20 --72.4 - 30 -0.0 - 40 0.1000000000000085 100 -AcDbArc - 50 -270.0 - 51 -0.0 - 0 -LINE - 5 -8D -330 -1F -100 -AcDbEntity - 8 -0 - 6 -Continuous - 62 - 7 -370 - 25 -100 -AcDbLine - 10 -22.4 - 20 --72.5 - 30 -0.0 - 11 --22.4 - 21 --72.5 - 31 -0.0 - 0 -ARC - 5 -8E -330 -1F -100 -AcDbEntity - 8 -0 - 6 -Continuous - 62 - 7 -370 - 25 -100 -AcDbCircle - 10 --22.4 - 20 --72.4 - 30 -0.0 - 40 -0.1000000000000085 -100 -AcDbArc - 50 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+2460931.368379838 1 90 diff --git a/components/shared/electronics/enclosures/vintage-vertical-edc/laser/616_OutletPanel_x1_1mm_INOX.DXF b/components/shared/electronics/enclosures/vintage-vertical-edc/laser/616_OutletPanel_x1_1mm_INOX.DXF index 87ad4ce29..519ceb8fa 100644 --- a/components/shared/electronics/enclosures/vintage-vertical-edc/laser/616_OutletPanel_x1_1mm_INOX.DXF +++ b/components/shared/electronics/enclosures/vintage-vertical-edc/laser/616_OutletPanel_x1_1mm_INOX.DXF @@ -445,19 +445,19 @@ $SKPOLY 9 $TDCREATE 40 -2460899.351087257 +2460931.446727466 9 $TDUCREATE 40 -2460899.267753924 +2460931.363394132 9 $TDUPDATE 40 -2460899.35109956 +2460931.44673963 9 $TDUUPDATE 40 -2460899.267766227 +2460931.363406297 9 $TDINDWG 40 @@ -505,7 +505,7 @@ $SPLINESEGS 9 $HANDSEED 5 -8D +8E 9 $SURFTAB1 70 @@ -885,7 +885,7 @@ $PSTYLEMODE 9 $FINGERPRINTGUID 2 -{5f49388a-1269-4ef5-902f-07bfc4b24fe1} +{826c9a52-4af0-425a-92b0-4712711c6559} 9 $VERSIONGUID 2 @@ -1835,13 +1835,13 @@ Continuous 100 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+4.0 20 --39.5 +-41.5 30 0.0 40 -1.57500000000001 +1.750000000000002 0 CIRCLE 5 @@ -2043,13 +2043,13 @@ Continuous 100 AcDbCircle 10 --17.5 +15.0 20 -17.5 +-17.5 30 0.0 40 -8.099999999999998 +10.70000000000001 0 CIRCLE 5 @@ -2069,13 +2069,13 @@ Continuous 100 AcDbCircle 10 -10.0 +15.0 20 -70.0 +87.5 30 0.0 40 -12.1 +11.1 0 CIRCLE 5 @@ -2095,13 +2095,13 @@ Continuous 100 AcDbCircle 10 -10.0 +15.4809228875 20 --17.5 +52.5 30 0.0 40 -12.1 +8.100000000000001 0 CIRCLE 5 @@ -2121,13 +2121,13 @@ Continuous 100 AcDbCircle 10 -10.0 +-20.0 20 --52.5 +17.5 30 0.0 40 -12.1 +8.100000000000001 0 CIRCLE 5 @@ -2147,13 +2147,13 @@ Continuous 100 AcDbCircle 10 --17.5 +15.0 20 --87.5 +-52.5 30 0.0 40 -8.099999999999998 +10.7 0 CIRCLE 5 @@ -2173,13 +2173,13 @@ Continuous 100 AcDbCircle 10 --17.5 +15.0 20 --52.5 +-87.5 30 0.0 40 -8.100000000000001 +10.70000000000001 0 CIRCLE 5 @@ -2199,7 +2199,7 @@ Continuous 100 AcDbCircle 10 --17.5 +-20.0 20 -17.5 30 @@ -2225,13 +2225,13 @@ Continuous 100 AcDbCircle 10 -10.0 +-20.0 20 --87.5 +-52.5 30 0.0 40 -12.1 +8.100000000000001 0 CIRCLE 5 @@ -2251,13 +2251,13 @@ Continuous 100 AcDbCircle 10 --3.0 +4.0 20 -4.5 +6.5 30 0.0 40 -1.575000000000005 +1.75 0 CIRCLE 5 @@ -2277,13 +2277,13 @@ Continuous 100 AcDbCircle 10 -23.0 +26.0 20 -4.5 +6.5 30 0.0 40 -1.575000000000028 +1.750000000000004 0 CIRCLE 5 @@ -2303,13 +2303,13 @@ Continuous 100 AcDbCircle 10 -23.0 +26.0 20 --65.5 +28.5 30 0.0 40 -1.575000000000028 +1.750000000000004 0 CIRCLE 5 @@ -2329,13 +2329,13 @@ Continuous 100 AcDbCircle 10 --3.0 +26.0 20 --65.5 +-41.5 30 0.0 40 -1.575000000000005 +1.750000000000004 0 CIRCLE 5 @@ -2355,13 +2355,13 @@ Continuous 100 AcDbCircle 10 --3.0 +26.0 20 --4.5 +-63.5 30 0.0 40 -1.575000000000002 +1.750000000000004 0 CIRCLE 5 @@ -2381,13 +2381,13 @@ Continuous 100 AcDbCircle 10 -23.0 +4.0 20 --4.5 +-63.5 30 0.0 40 -1.57500000000001 +1.750000000000002 0 CIRCLE 5 @@ -2407,13 +2407,13 @@ Continuous 100 AcDbCircle 10 -23.0 +4.0 20 --30.5 +-6.5 30 0.0 40 -1.575000000000028 +1.75 0 CIRCLE 5 @@ -2433,13 +2433,13 @@ Continuous 100 AcDbCircle 10 --3.0 +26.0 20 --30.5 +-6.5 30 0.0 40 -1.575000000000005 +1.750000000000004 0 CIRCLE 5 @@ -2459,13 +2459,13 @@ Continuous 100 AcDbCircle 10 --3.0 +26.0 20 -30.5 +-28.5 30 0.0 40 -1.575000000000002 +1.750000000000004 0 CIRCLE 5 @@ -2485,13 +2485,13 @@ Continuous 100 AcDbCircle 10 -23.0 +4.0 20 -30.5 +-28.5 30 0.0 40 -1.57500000000001 +1.750000000000002 0 CIRCLE 5 @@ -2511,13 +2511,13 @@ Continuous 100 AcDbCircle 10 -10.0 +4.0 20 -17.5 +28.5 30 0.0 40 -12.1 +1.750000000000001 0 CIRCLE 5 @@ -2537,13 +2537,13 @@ Continuous 100 AcDbCircle 10 -48.0 +15.0 20 --118.0 +17.5 30 0.0 40 -2.749999999999986 +10.7 0 CIRCLE 5 @@ -2563,7 +2563,7 @@ Continuous 100 AcDbCircle 10 --48.0 +48.0 20 -118.0 30 @@ -2587,6 +2587,32 @@ Continuous 370 25 100 +AcDbCircle + 10 +-48.0 + 20 +-118.0 + 30 +0.0 + 40 +2.749999999999986 + 0 +CIRCLE + 5 +81 +330 +1F +100 +AcDbEntity + 8 +0 + 6 +Continuous + 62 + 7 +370 + 25 +100 AcDbCircle 10 -48.0 @@ -2599,7 +2625,7 @@ AcDbCircle 0 CIRCLE 5 -81 +82 330 1F 100 @@ -2625,7 +2651,7 @@ AcDbCircle 0 CIRCLE 5 -82 +83 330 1F 100 @@ -2651,7 +2677,7 @@ AcDbCircle 0 CIRCLE 5 -83 +84 330 1F 100 @@ -2677,7 +2703,7 @@ AcDbCircle 0 LINE 5 -84 +85 330 1F 100 @@ -2707,7 +2733,7 @@ AcDbLine 0 ARC 5 -85 +86 330 1F 100 @@ -2739,7 +2765,7 @@ AcDbArc 0 LINE 5 -86 +87 330 1F 100 @@ -2769,7 +2795,7 @@ AcDbLine 0 ARC 5 -87 +88 330 1F 100 @@ -2801,7 +2827,7 @@ AcDbArc 0 LINE 5 -88 +89 330 1F 100 @@ -2831,7 +2857,7 @@ AcDbLine 0 ARC 5 -89 +8A 330 1F 100 @@ -2863,7 +2889,7 @@ AcDbArc 0 LINE 5 -8A +8B 330 1F 100 @@ -2893,7 +2919,7 @@ AcDbLine 0 ARC 5 -8B +8C 330 1F 100 @@ -2965,7 +2991,7 @@ ACAD_SCALELIST 3 DWGPROPS 350 -8C +8D 0 DICTIONARY 5 @@ -3157,7 +3183,7 @@ B6 0 XRECORD 5 -8C +8D 102 {ACAD_REACTORS 330 @@ -3209,9 +3235,9 @@ zx 40 0.0 41 -2460899.267753924 +2460931.363394132 42 -2460899.267766227 +2460931.363406297 1 90 diff --git a/components/shared/electronics/enclosures/vintage-vertical-edc/resources/Glands.jpg b/components/shared/electronics/enclosures/vintage-vertical-edc/resources/Glands.jpg new file mode 100644 index 000000000..ed2a9156a --- /dev/null +++ b/components/shared/electronics/enclosures/vintage-vertical-edc/resources/Glands.jpg @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +version https://git-lfs.github.com/spec/v1 +oid sha256:6be2471fab07024319f5099aea503f689c39819415d6092d7f7e2c600b01473f +size 190093 diff --git a/components/shared/electronics/enclosures/vintage-vertical-edc/resources/LP20-2P-Dimensions.jpg b/components/shared/electronics/enclosures/vintage-vertical-edc/resources/LP20-2P-Dimensions.jpg new file mode 100644 index 000000000..0038383f8 --- /dev/null +++ b/components/shared/electronics/enclosures/vintage-vertical-edc/resources/LP20-2P-Dimensions.jpg @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +version https://git-lfs.github.com/spec/v1 +oid sha256:b6278dac91dd5d04a923fa2172118fcb61c2a1ed427ec391c7ec4034472e1bbe +size 150479 diff --git a/components/shared/electronics/enclosures/vintage-vertical-edc/resources/LP20-2P.jpg b/components/shared/electronics/enclosures/vintage-vertical-edc/resources/LP20-2P.jpg new file mode 100644 index 000000000..2a3ab77cc --- /dev/null +++ b/components/shared/electronics/enclosures/vintage-vertical-edc/resources/LP20-2P.jpg @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +version https://git-lfs.github.com/spec/v1 +oid sha256:78ec33a8d8a7acdf43d5d3d3ebe0fa8b122470ffa1f0691a4fab56eb4ce63ab9 +size 213233 diff --git a/howtos/add-interchangable-patterns-to-injection-moulds/README.md b/howtos/add-interchangable-patterns-to-injection-moulds/README.md index 43aa9478c..d1adb7148 100644 --- a/howtos/add-interchangable-patterns-to-injection-moulds/README.md +++ b/howtos/add-interchangable-patterns-to-injection-moulds/README.md @@ -1,27 +1,29 @@ --- title: Add interchangable patterns to injection moulds slug: add-interchangable-patterns-to-injection-moulds -description: Utilize lasercut, CNC milled, or handmade plates to incorporate interchangeable text or patterns into injection mold products, including the addition of plastic types or logos. +description: Using lasercut, cnc milled or handmade plates you can add interchangable text or patterns to injection mould products. Add plastic types or logo's to the products. tags: ["hack","mould","injection"] category: Guides difficulty: Medium time: < 1 week -keywords: laser cutting, CNC milling, interchangeable plates, injection mold products, hexagon tile mold, acrylic plates, aluminum plates, HDPE injection, 3D file requirements, Fusion 360 +keywords: location: Leuven, Belgium --- # Add interchangable patterns to injection moulds ![Add interchangable patterns to injection moulds](Luminus-Sheep-on-wheels-2.jpg) -Utilize lasercut, CNC milled, or handmade plates to incorporate interchangeable text or patterns into injection mold products, including the addition of plastic types or logos. +Using lasercut, cnc milled or handmade plates you can add interchangable text or patterns to injection mould products. Add plastic types or logo's to the products. User Location: Leuven, Belgium ## Steps ### Step 1: Have a mould -We are extending an existing mold, specifically a hexagon tile mold. It consists of a three-part flat mold fastened with bolts. Outer dimensions are 15 cm x 15 cm (approx. 6 in x 6 in). The top and bottom plates are 10 mm (approx. 0.4 in) thick, and the center part with the hexagon cutout is 4 mm (approx. 0.16 in) thick. +We are adding a part to an existing mould. In this example we use the hexagon tile mould. It's a simple 3 part flat mould held together with boults. Outer size : 15 x 15 cm. The top and bottom plate are 10mm, the center part with hexagon cutout is 4mm. -We will explain the processes of laser cutting and CNC milling. To access these devices, you might inquire at local facilities such as a Fablab or makerspace, or educational institutions. +We will describe how to do lasercutting and CNC milling. For acces to a lasercutter/cnc milling device you can check with your local Fablab/makerspace, sometimes even high schools or universities. + +For the lasercut add ons we use 4mm acrylic plates (15 x15cm). +For the CNC we used 3mm aluminium plates (15 x 15cm). -For laser cut add-ons, we use 4 mm (approx. 0.16 in) acrylic plates sized 15 cm x 15 cm (approx. 6 in x 6 in). For CNC machining, we use 3 mm (approx. 0.12 in) aluminum plates also sized 15 cm x 15 cm. ![Screenshot 2020-02-01 at 15.28.06.png](./Screenshot_2020-02-01_at_15.28.06.png) @@ -31,17 +33,14 @@ For laser cut add-ons, we use 4 mm (approx. 0.16 in) acrylic plates sized 15 cm ### Step 2: Design a pattern -Certainly. +We used software to create different patterns. Make sure the text is mirrored as we are producing a negative. Depending on the technique used you might need a specific export format. ---- +You can add information (plastic type, production info) as you wish. -We utilized software to design various patterns. Ensure the text is mirrored when creating a negative. The export format may vary based on your chosen technique. +With lasecutting there is virtually no limit in shapes you can cut. Do mind that smaller detail is harder to inject. In our experience 2-3mm is possible with HDPE injection. -Additional information, such as plastic type and production details, can be included as needed. +When CNC milling the limit is set by the CNC Router bit. As it cuts by turning all corners are smoothed out by the diameter of the CNC Router bit. Check the limit of the machine you are using. We used a 1mm CNC Router bit. -Laser cutting allows for unlimited shapes, though finer details are more challenging. Our experience shows HDPE injection can handle details as small as 0.08-0.12 inches (2-3 mm). - -For CNC milling, the detail is limited by the router bit diameter, which rounds corners. Verify the specifications of your machine. We used a 0.04-inch (1 mm) CNC router bit. ![sheeponweels-injection-mould-1-1.jpg](./sheeponweels-injection-mould-1-1.jpg) @@ -51,26 +50,28 @@ For CNC milling, the detail is limited by the router bit diameter, which rounds ### Step 3: Create a compatible file -A 2D file suffices for laser cutting, with PNG and AI formats commonly accepted by various software programs. +When lasercutting a 2D file is sufficient. Some software allows to use PNG, AI or other files. + +When CNC milling a 3D file is needed. Using software like Fusion 360 you can change your vector file into a 3D shape. + +In our example we've set the cutting depth to 1.5mm. -For CNC milling, a 3D file is necessary. Software such as Fusion 360 can convert vector files into 3D shapes. -In our example, the cutting depth is set to 1.5 millimeters (0.059 inches). ![Screenshot 2020-05-15 at 11.34.57.png](./Screenshot_2020-05-15_at_11.34.57.png) ### Step 4: Lasercut -### Laser Cutter Settings for Acrylic Moulds +Depending on the type of cutter used settings will differ. -The settings for your cutter will vary based on the type of machine. It is advisable to perform test cuts and adjust the laser's speed and intensity accordingly. +Best is to do some test cuts first, changing the speed and intensity of the laser. Acrylic is safe to ut but does smell so dust extraction is advised. -Though acrylic can be safely cut, it does emit an odor; therefore, dust extraction is recommended. +Make sure the pattern is not cut trough the acrylic plate as it will weaken the texture mould and make it less durable (although its possible for some shapes). -Ensure the pattern is not fully cut through the acrylic plate to preserve the mould's durability, except for certain shapes where this might be acceptable. +Make sure the edges are cut through to prevent having to drill and cut manually later on in the proces. -Ensure edges are fully cut to avoid the necessity of manual drilling and cutting later. You can assign different settings to cutting lines to achieve multiple depths in one mould. +You can use multiple depths in one mould by assigning different settings to the cutting lines. ![sheeponweels-injection-mould-4.jpg](./sheeponweels-injection-mould-4.jpg) @@ -83,9 +84,9 @@ Ensure edges are fully cut to avoid the necessity of manual drilling and cutting ### Step 5: CNC milling -Process the file with the software, secure the material, and begin milling. +Run the file through the software, clamp the material in place and start milling. -Conduct speed tests beforehand. +Again it is wise to do some speed tests first. ![sheeponweels-injection-mould-5-1.jpg](./sheeponweels-injection-mould-5-1.jpg) @@ -95,9 +96,11 @@ Conduct speed tests beforehand. ### Step 6: Inject -Insert the texture plate into the mold and begin injecting. +Add the texture plate to the mould and start injecting. + +Best results when cooling down the mould quickly. + -For optimal results, cool the mold rapidly. ![IMG_5014 copy.jpg](./IMG_5014_copy.jpg) @@ -106,74 +109,4 @@ For optimal results, cool the mold rapidly. ![sheeponweels-injection-mould-6.jpg](./sheeponweels-injection-mould-6.jpg) ## Resources -### Tools & Equipment - -- [Laser Cutter](https://www.fablab-leuven.be/) (e.g., Fab Lab Leuven) -- [CNC Milling Machine](https://www.kuleuven.be/english) (e.g., KU Leuven workshops) -- Injection molding machine -- 4 mm acrylic plates (15 cm x 15 cm) -- 3 mm aluminum plates (15 cm x 15 cm) - -### Software - -- [Autodesk Fusion 360](https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/) (3D modeling for CNC) -- [Adobe Illustrator](https://www.adobe.com/products/illustrator.html) (vector design for laser cutting) -- Laser cutter control software (e.g., RDWorks or machine-specific) -- CNC machine control software (e.g., Mach3, GRBL) - -### Materials - -- HDPE plastic pellets (for injection molding) -- Acrylic sheets (4 mm thickness) -- Aluminum sheets (3 mm thickness) -- Cooling system (water or air-based for rapid mold cooling) -- Bolts (for mold assembly) - -### Design Files - -- 2D vector files (PNG/AI formats for laser cutting)[1][5] -- 3D CAD files (for CNC milling)[5][6] -- Mirrored text/patterns (negative design)[3] -- Cutting depth specification (1.5 mm for CNC)[6] -- Multi-depth laser engraving settings[5] - -### Safety & Maintenance - -- ~~[Dust extraction system](https://www.fablab-leuven.be/facilities)~~ (for laser cutting acrylic)[4] -- Test cuts (calibration for laser/CNC settings)[4][6] -- CNC Router bit verification (≥1 mm diameter for CNC)[6] -- Material clamping tools (vice or vacuum table) -- Protective gear (goggles, gloves during injection)[4] - -Local fabrication options in Leuven include Fab Lab Leuven for laser cutting/CNC access and KU Leuven’s engineering workshops[2]. -## References -## Articles - -- [Everything You Need to Know About CNC Machining for Injection Mold Making](https://www.mastercam.com/news/blog/everything-you-need-to-know-about-cnc-machining-for-injection-mold-making/) -- [Intro to Plastic Injection Mold Making](https://www.paulsonmfg.com/blog/intro-to-plastic-injection-mold-making/) -- [A Beginner's Guide to Injection Molding](https://www.protolabs.com/resources/guides-and-trend-reports/designing-for-moldability-fundamental-elements/) - -## Books - -- *Runner and Gating Design Handbook Second Edition: Tools for Successful Injection Molding* (John Beaumont): [Link](https://www.beaumontinc.com/about/books-by-beaumont/) -- *Successful Injection Molding: Process, Design, and Simulation* (John Beaumont): [Link](https://www.beaumontinc.com/about/books-by-beaumont/) - -## Papers - -- [Effect of Femtosecond-Laser-Structured Injection Molding Tool on Mechanical Properties](https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC8272158/) -- ~~[Enhancement of Low-Power CO₂ Laser Cutting for Injection-Molded Polycarbonate](https://pure.northampton.ac.uk/files/37975388/Moradi_et_OLT_2017_Enhancement_of_low_power_CO2_laser_cutting_process_for_injection_molded_polycarbonate.pdf)~~ - -## YouTube - -- [Laser Model Making Basics Tutorial Guide](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=17Pg3QJk00o) - -## Open-Source Designs - -- [Step-by-Step Laser-Cut Molds for Thermoforming (Instructables)](https://www.instructables.com/Laser-Cut-Forms-for-Thermoforming-Vacuum-Forming/) -- [Fab Academy Week 13 Assignment: Mold Fabrication](https://fabacademy.org/2024/labs/chaihuo/students/matthew-yu/docs/week13_assignment) -- [Soft Robotics Toolkit: Laser-Cutting Mold Parts](https://softroboticstoolkit.com/laser-cut-molds/mold-fabrication/laser-cutting) - -## Manufacturer Guides - -- [Plastic Injection Mold Making (CS Tool Engineering)](https://www.cste.com/services/plastic-injection-mold-making) -- [Injection Molding vs CNC Machining (3ERP)](https://www.3erp.com/blog/injection-molding-vs-cnc-machining/) \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/add-interchangable-patterns-to-injection-moulds/config.json b/howtos/add-interchangable-patterns-to-injection-moulds/config.json index f04a33b9a..40e8cf5d9 100644 --- a/howtos/add-interchangable-patterns-to-injection-moulds/config.json +++ b/howtos/add-interchangable-patterns-to-injection-moulds/config.json @@ -37,12 +37,12 @@ "_deleted": false, "difficulty_level": "Medium", "comments": [], - "description": "Utilize lasercut, CNC milled, or handmade plates to incorporate interchangeable text or patterns into injection mold products, including the addition of plastic types or logos.", + "description": "Using lasercut, cnc milled or handmade plates you can add interchangable text or patterns to injection mould products. Add plastic types or logo's to the products.", "creatorCountry": "", "steps": [ { "title": "Have a mould", - "text": "We are extending an existing mold, specifically a hexagon tile mold. It consists of a three-part flat mold fastened with bolts. Outer dimensions are 15 cm x 15 cm (approx. 6 in x 6 in). The top and bottom plates are 10 mm (approx. 0.4 in) thick, and the center part with the hexagon cutout is 4 mm (approx. 0.16 in) thick.\n\nWe will explain the processes of laser cutting and CNC milling. To access these devices, you might inquire at local facilities such as a Fablab or makerspace, or educational institutions.\n\nFor laser cut add-ons, we use 4 mm (approx. 0.16 in) acrylic plates sized 15 cm x 15 cm (approx. 6 in x 6 in). For CNC machining, we use 3 mm (approx. 0.12 in) aluminum plates also sized 15 cm x 15 cm.", + "text": "We are adding a part to an existing mould. In this example we use the hexagon tile mould. It's a simple 3 part flat mould held together with boults. Outer size : 15 x 15 cm. The top and bottom plate are 10mm, the center part with hexagon cutout is 4mm.\n\nWe will describe how to do lasercutting and CNC milling. For acces to a lasercutter/cnc milling device you can check with your local Fablab/makerspace, sometimes even high schools or universities.\n\nFor the lasercut add ons we use 4mm acrylic plates (15 x15cm).\nFor the CNC we used 3mm aluminium plates (15 x 15cm).\n", "_animationKey": "unique3", "images": [ { @@ -72,7 +72,7 @@ ] }, { - "text": "Certainly.\n\n---\n\nWe utilized software to design various patterns. Ensure the text is mirrored when creating a negative. The export format may vary based on your chosen technique.\n\nAdditional information, such as plastic type and production details, can be included as needed.\n\nLaser cutting allows for unlimited shapes, though finer details are more challenging. Our experience shows HDPE injection can handle details as small as 0.08-0.12 inches (2-3 mm).\n\nFor CNC milling, the detail is limited by the router bit diameter, which rounds corners. Verify the specifications of your machine. We used a 0.04-inch (1 mm) CNC router bit.", + "text": "We used software to create different patterns. Make sure the text is mirrored as we are producing a negative. Depending on the technique used you might need a specific export format.\n\nYou can add information (plastic type, production info) as you wish.\n\nWith lasecutting there is virtually no limit in shapes you can cut. Do mind that smaller detail is harder to inject. In our experience 2-3mm is possible with HDPE injection. \n\nWhen CNC milling the limit is set by the CNC Router bit. As it cuts by turning all corners are smoothed out by the diameter of the CNC Router bit. Check the limit of the machine you are using. We used a 1mm CNC Router bit. \n", "_animationKey": "unique1", "title": "Design a pattern", "images": [ @@ -119,10 +119,10 @@ ], "_animationKey": "unique2", "title": "Create a compatible file ", - "text": "A 2D file suffices for laser cutting, with PNG and AI formats commonly accepted by various software programs.\n\nFor CNC milling, a 3D file is necessary. Software such as Fusion 360 can convert vector files into 3D shapes.\n\nIn our example, the cutting depth is set to 1.5 millimeters (0.059 inches)." + "text": "When lasercutting a 2D file is sufficient. Some software allows to use PNG, AI or other files. \n\nWhen CNC milling a 3D file is needed. Using software like Fusion 360 you can change your vector file into a 3D shape.\n\nIn our example we've set the cutting depth to 1.5mm.\n\n" }, { - "text": "### Laser Cutter Settings for Acrylic Moulds\n\nThe settings for your cutter will vary based on the type of machine. It is advisable to perform test cuts and adjust the laser's speed and intensity accordingly. \n\nThough acrylic can be safely cut, it does emit an odor; therefore, dust extraction is recommended. \n\nEnsure the pattern is not fully cut through the acrylic plate to preserve the mould's durability, except for certain shapes where this might be acceptable.\n\nEnsure edges are fully cut to avoid the necessity of manual drilling and cutting later. You can assign different settings to cutting lines to achieve multiple depths in one mould.", + "text": "Depending on the type of cutter used settings will differ. \n\nBest is to do some test cuts first, changing the speed and intensity of the laser. Acrylic is safe to ut but does smell so dust extraction is advised. \n\nMake sure the pattern is not cut trough the acrylic plate as it will weaken the texture mould and make it less durable (although its possible for some shapes).\n\nMake sure the edges are cut through to prevent having to drill and cut manually later on in the proces. \n\nYou can use multiple depths in one mould by assigning different settings to the cutting lines. ", "_animationKey": "uniqueohlo3h", "title": "Lasercut", "images": [ @@ -193,11 +193,11 @@ "alt": "sheeponweels-injection-mould-5-2.jpg" } ], - "text": "Process the file with the software, secure the material, and begin milling.\n\nConduct speed tests beforehand." + "text": "Run the file through the software, clamp the material in place and start milling. \n\nAgain it is wise to do some speed tests first. " }, { "_animationKey": "uniquebit9wr", - "text": "Insert the texture plate into the mold and begin injecting. \n\nFor optimal results, cool the mold rapidly.", + "text": "Add the texture plate to the mould and start injecting. \n\nBest results when cooling down the mould quickly.\n\n", "title": "Inject", "images": [ { @@ -408,9 +408,5 @@ "images": [] } }, - "content": "Utilize lasercut, CNC milled, or handmade plates to incorporate interchangeable text or patterns into injection mold products, including the addition of plastic types or logos.\n\n\nUser Location: Leuven, Belgium\n\nWe are extending an existing mold, specifically a hexagon tile mold. It consists of a three-part flat mold fastened with bolts. Outer dimensions are 15 cm x 15 cm (approx. 6 in x 6 in). The top and bottom plates are 10 mm (approx. 0.4 in) thick, and the center part with the hexagon cutout is 4 mm (approx. 0.16 in) thick.\n\nWe will explain the processes of laser cutting and CNC milling. To access these devices, you might inquire at local facilities such as a Fablab or makerspace, or educational institutions.\n\nFor laser cut add-ons, we use 4 mm (approx. 0.16 in) acrylic plates sized 15 cm x 15 cm (approx. 6 in x 6 in). For CNC machining, we use 3 mm (approx. 0.12 in) aluminum plates also sized 15 cm x 15 cm.\n\nCertainly.\n\n---\n\nWe utilized software to design various patterns. Ensure the text is mirrored when creating a negative. The export format may vary based on your chosen technique.\n\nAdditional information, such as plastic type and production details, can be included as needed.\n\nLaser cutting allows for unlimited shapes, though finer details are more challenging. Our experience shows HDPE injection can handle details as small as 0.08-0.12 inches (2-3 mm).\n\nFor CNC milling, the detail is limited by the router bit diameter, which rounds corners. Verify the specifications of your machine. We used a 0.04-inch (1 mm) CNC router bit.\n\nA 2D file suffices for laser cutting, with PNG and AI formats commonly accepted by various software programs.\n\nFor CNC milling, a 3D file is necessary. Software such as Fusion 360 can convert vector files into 3D shapes.\n\nIn our example, the cutting depth is set to 1.5 millimeters (0.059 inches).\n\n### Laser Cutter Settings for Acrylic Moulds\n\nThe settings for your cutter will vary based on the type of machine. It is advisable to perform test cuts and adjust the laser's speed and intensity accordingly. \n\nThough acrylic can be safely cut, it does emit an odor; therefore, dust extraction is recommended. \n\nEnsure the pattern is not fully cut through the acrylic plate to preserve the mould's durability, except for certain shapes where this might be acceptable.\n\nEnsure edges are fully cut to avoid the necessity of manual drilling and cutting later. You can assign different settings to cutting lines to achieve multiple depths in one mould.\n\nProcess the file with the software, secure the material, and begin milling.\n\nConduct speed tests beforehand.\n\nInsert the texture plate into the mold and begin injecting. \n\nFor optimal results, cool the mold rapidly.", - "keywords": "laser cutting, CNC milling, interchangeable plates, injection mold products, hexagon tile mold, acrylic plates, aluminum plates, HDPE injection, 3D file requirements, Fusion 360", - "resources": "### Tools & Equipment\n\n- [Laser Cutter](https://www.fablab-leuven.be/) (e.g., Fab Lab Leuven)\n- [CNC Milling Machine](https://www.kuleuven.be/english) (e.g., KU Leuven workshops)\n- Injection molding machine\n- 4 mm acrylic plates (15 cm x 15 cm)\n- 3 mm aluminum plates (15 cm x 15 cm)\n\n### Software\n\n- [Autodesk Fusion 360](https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/) (3D modeling for CNC)\n- [Adobe Illustrator](https://www.adobe.com/products/illustrator.html) (vector design for laser cutting)\n- Laser cutter control software (e.g., RDWorks or machine-specific)\n- CNC machine control software (e.g., Mach3, GRBL)\n\n### Materials\n\n- HDPE plastic pellets (for injection molding)\n- Acrylic sheets (4 mm thickness)\n- Aluminum sheets (3 mm thickness)\n- Cooling system (water or air-based for rapid mold cooling)\n- Bolts (for mold assembly)\n\n### Design Files\n\n- 2D vector files (PNG/AI formats for laser cutting)[1][5]\n- 3D CAD files (for CNC milling)[5][6]\n- Mirrored text/patterns (negative design)[3]\n- Cutting depth specification (1.5 mm for CNC)[6]\n- Multi-depth laser engraving settings[5]\n\n### Safety & Maintenance\n\n- ~~[Dust extraction system](https://www.fablab-leuven.be/facilities)~~ (for laser cutting acrylic)[4]\n- Test cuts (calibration for laser/CNC settings)[4][6]\n- CNC Router bit verification (≥1 mm diameter for CNC)[6]\n- Material clamping tools (vice or vacuum table)\n- Protective gear (goggles, gloves during injection)[4]\n\nLocal fabrication options in Leuven include Fab Lab Leuven for laser cutting/CNC access and KU Leuven’s engineering workshops[2].", - "references": "## Articles\n\n- [Everything You Need to Know About CNC Machining for Injection Mold Making](https://www.mastercam.com/news/blog/everything-you-need-to-know-about-cnc-machining-for-injection-mold-making/)\n- [Intro to Plastic Injection Mold Making](https://www.paulsonmfg.com/blog/intro-to-plastic-injection-mold-making/)\n- [A Beginner's Guide to Injection Molding](https://www.protolabs.com/resources/guides-and-trend-reports/designing-for-moldability-fundamental-elements/)\n\n## Books\n\n- *Runner and Gating Design Handbook Second Edition: Tools for Successful Injection Molding* (John Beaumont): [Link](https://www.beaumontinc.com/about/books-by-beaumont/)\n- *Successful Injection Molding: Process, Design, and Simulation* (John Beaumont): [Link](https://www.beaumontinc.com/about/books-by-beaumont/)\n\n## Papers\n\n- [Effect of Femtosecond-Laser-Structured Injection Molding Tool on Mechanical Properties](https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC8272158/)\n- ~~[Enhancement of Low-Power CO₂ Laser Cutting for Injection-Molded Polycarbonate](https://pure.northampton.ac.uk/files/37975388/Moradi_et_OLT_2017_Enhancement_of_low_power_CO2_laser_cutting_process_for_injection_molded_polycarbonate.pdf)~~\n\n## YouTube\n\n- [Laser Model Making Basics Tutorial Guide](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=17Pg3QJk00o)\n\n## Open-Source Designs\n\n- [Step-by-Step Laser-Cut Molds for Thermoforming (Instructables)](https://www.instructables.com/Laser-Cut-Forms-for-Thermoforming-Vacuum-Forming/)\n- [Fab Academy Week 13 Assignment: Mold Fabrication](https://fabacademy.org/2024/labs/chaihuo/students/matthew-yu/docs/week13_assignment)\n- [Soft Robotics Toolkit: Laser-Cutting Mold Parts](https://softroboticstoolkit.com/laser-cut-molds/mold-fabrication/laser-cutting)\n\n## Manufacturer Guides\n\n- [Plastic Injection Mold Making (CS Tool Engineering)](https://www.cste.com/services/plastic-injection-mold-making)\n- [Injection Molding vs CNC Machining (3ERP)](https://www.3erp.com/blog/injection-molding-vs-cnc-machining/)", - "brief": "Incorporate interchangeable patterns or text into injection molds using lasercut, CNC milled, or handmade plates with acrylic or aluminum materials." + "content": "Using lasercut, cnc milled or handmade plates you can add interchangable text or patterns to injection mould products. Add plastic types or logo's to the products.\n\n\nUser Location: Leuven, Belgium\n\nWe are adding a part to an existing mould. In this example we use the hexagon tile mould. It's a simple 3 part flat mould held together with boults. Outer size : 15 x 15 cm. The top and bottom plate are 10mm, the center part with hexagon cutout is 4mm.\n\nWe will describe how to do lasercutting and CNC milling. For acces to a lasercutter/cnc milling device you can check with your local Fablab/makerspace, sometimes even high schools or universities.\n\nFor the lasercut add ons we use 4mm acrylic plates (15 x15cm).\nFor the CNC we used 3mm aluminium plates (15 x 15cm).\n\n\nWe used software to create different patterns. Make sure the text is mirrored as we are producing a negative. Depending on the technique used you might need a specific export format.\n\nYou can add information (plastic type, production info) as you wish.\n\nWith lasecutting there is virtually no limit in shapes you can cut. Do mind that smaller detail is harder to inject. In our experience 2-3mm is possible with HDPE injection. \n\nWhen CNC milling the limit is set by the CNC Router bit. As it cuts by turning all corners are smoothed out by the diameter of the CNC Router bit. Check the limit of the machine you are using. We used a 1mm CNC Router bit. \n\n\nWhen lasercutting a 2D file is sufficient. Some software allows to use PNG, AI or other files. \n\nWhen CNC milling a 3D file is needed. Using software like Fusion 360 you can change your vector file into a 3D shape.\n\nIn our example we've set the cutting depth to 1.5mm.\n\n\n\nDepending on the type of cutter used settings will differ. \n\nBest is to do some test cuts first, changing the speed and intensity of the laser. Acrylic is safe to ut but does smell so dust extraction is advised. \n\nMake sure the pattern is not cut trough the acrylic plate as it will weaken the texture mould and make it less durable (although its possible for some shapes).\n\nMake sure the edges are cut through to prevent having to drill and cut manually later on in the proces. \n\nYou can use multiple depths in one mould by assigning different settings to the cutting lines. \n\nRun the file through the software, clamp the material in place and start milling. \n\nAgain it is wise to do some speed tests first. \n\nAdd the texture plate to the mould and start injecting. \n\nBest results when cooling down the mould quickly.\n\n" } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/affordable-cat-house/README.md b/howtos/affordable-cat-house/README.md index e89d54a47..d8f71beea 100644 --- a/howtos/affordable-cat-house/README.md +++ b/howtos/affordable-cat-house/README.md @@ -1,27 +1,23 @@ --- title: Affordable Cat House slug: affordable-cat-house -description: # How to Draw Custom Shapes and Designs for CNC Cutting - -Learn to create unique shapes and designs by hand for CNC machine cutting. +description: How to draw custom shapes and designs by hand and then cut in CNC. tags: ["HDPE"] category: Products difficulty: Medium time: < 1 day -keywords: CNC cutting, custom shapes design, Rhinoceros 3D, VCarve application, CNC machine cutting, pocketing vs profiling, affordable cat housing, vectorizing drawings, scan filter CamScanner, Istanbul CNC design +keywords: location: Istanbul, Turkiye --- # Affordable Cat House ![Affordable Cat House](_MG_9435-181a5f2baa3.jpg) -# How to Draw Custom Shapes and Designs for CNC Cutting - -Learn to create unique shapes and designs by hand for CNC machine cutting. +How to draw custom shapes and designs by hand and then cut in CNC. User Location: Istanbul, Turkiye ## Steps ### Step 1: Draw you design in 1:1 scale -For this initial step, we provided scale documents for drawing. Participants then created their designs. Blue lines indicate pocketing (not cutting through the material), while red lines denote profiling (cutting through the material). +For this first step, we provided 1:1 scale documents to draw on. Participants then drew their designs. The blue lines are for pocketing (not cutting the material through) and the red lines are for profiling(cutting the material through). ![IMG_1353-181a5f78c5d.PNG](./IMG_1353-181a5f78c5d.PNG) @@ -31,7 +27,7 @@ For this initial step, we provided scale documents for drawing. Participants the ### Step 2: Scanning drawings -In this step, we scanned the drawings using a scan filter like CamScanner to ensure a high-contrast image similar to a photocopy. +In this step, we scanned(took pictures and used a scan filter like CamScanner) the drawings. The important part is to have a high-contrast image. Something like a photocopy. ![Workable Area-1-181a5f969d9.jpg](./Workable_Area-1-181a5f969d9.jpg) @@ -44,21 +40,21 @@ In this step, we scanned the drawings using a scan filter like CamScanner to ens ### Step 3: Converting drawings into CAD -We used Rhinoceros 3D and the Vectorize plugin to import the drawings as lines in Rhino. We cleaned and simplified the curves using the rebuild command, resulting in smoother curves with fewer control points. Blue lines indicate pocketing, while red lines indicate profiling (cutting through the material). +We used the Rhinoceros 3D application and the Vectorize plugin to import the drawings as lines in Rhino. We then cleaned the lines and simplified all the curves using the rebuild command. This ensured smoother curves with fewer control points. Again the blue lines are for pocketing (not cutting the material through) and the red lines are for profiling(cutting the material through). ![Screenshot 2022-06-27 at 19.29.12-181a5ff0df0.png](./Screenshot_2022-06-27_at_19.29.12-181a5ff0df0.png) ### Step 4: Preparing for CNC -For this step, we used the VCarve application. We input the material's width, length, and thickness. We selected the blue lines for 'pocketing' and the red lines for 'profiling'. Note that this step may vary depending on the machine used. +For this step, we used the VCarve application. We entered the width, length, and thickness of our material. Then we selected the blue lines and chose 'pocketing' and for the red lines we chose 'profiling'. Every machine is different so this step will be different for everyone. ![vcarve_pro_with_nested_polyboard_project-900-181a610c49e.jpeg](./vcarve_pro_with_nested_polyboard_project-900-181a610c49e.jpeg) ### Step 5: CNC miling -In this step, cut the material according to the designs. Secure the four corners of the sheet material to the CNC bed and input the x, y, and z coordinates of the sheet's corner into the CNC machine. Ensure the cutting pattern is correct from an elevated perspective (z coordinates higher than the material) to avoid the CNC bit hitting screws and to confirm that the design fits properly on the sheet without being offset. +This step involves cutting the material according to the designs. For this, we screw four corners of our sheet material to the CNC bed and specify to the CNC machine where are the x, y, and z locations of the corner of the sheet plastic. An important thing to remember is to double-check the cutting pattern from an elevated point (meaning the Z coordinates should be higher than the material) to make sure that the CNC bit is not hitting any of the screws and that the design fits in the sheet nicely and is not offsetted to one side. ![IMG_1356-181a608ed30.jpg](./IMG_1356-181a608ed30.jpg) @@ -71,7 +67,7 @@ In this step, cut the material according to the designs. Secure the four corners ### Step 6: Assembly -The final step is to assemble all sides of the Affordable Cat Housing using screws. We used two materials: plastic sheets and OSB panels. +The last step is to assemble all sides of the Affordable Cat Housing using screws. We used two materials; our plastic sheets and OSB panels. ![_MG_9537-181a60b78df.jpg](./_MG_9537-181a60b78df.jpg) @@ -83,45 +79,4 @@ The final step is to assemble all sides of the Affordable Cat Housing using scre ![_MG_9452-181a60bf3b5.jpg](./_MG_9452-181a60bf3b5.jpg) ## Resources -### Software - -- [CamScanner](https://www.camscanner.com) (high-contrast image scanning) -- [Rhinoceros 3D](https://www.rhino3d.com) with Vectorize plugin (vectorization) -- [VCarve](https://www.vectric.com/products/vcarve-pro) (CNC toolpath programming) - -### Hardware - -- CNC machine (for cutting operations) -- Screws (securing material to CNC bed and assembly) - -### Materials - -- Plastic sheets (housing components) -- OSB panels (structural assembly) -## References -## Articles - -1. [How to prepare a technical drawing for CNC machining](https://www.hubs.com/knowledge-base/how-prepare-technical-drawing-cnc-machining/) -2. [Fusion 360 CAM for CNC Beginners](https://www.instructables.com/Fusion-360-CAM-Tutorial-for-CNC-Beginners/) -3. [CNC Workflow Using Vectric VCarve Pro](https://makerhardware.net/knowledge-base/how-to-guides/cnc-workflow-using-vectric-vcarve-vcarve-pro-for-cnc/) -4. [Free CNC Software](https://carbide3d.com/learn/free-cnc-software/) -5. [Make Awesome 3D Geometry by Programming CNC-code](https://www.instructables.com/Make-Awesome-3D-Geometry-by-Programming-CNC-code/) -6. [EasyEDA Tutorial](https://image.easyeda.com/files/EasyEDA-Tutorial_v6.4.32.pdf) - -## Books - -1. [Getting Started with CNC: Personal Digital Fabrication](https://www.harvard.com/book/9781457183362) -2. [Fundamentals of CNC Machining](https://academy.titansofcnc.com/files/Fundamentals_of_CNC_Machining.pdf) - -## Papers - -1. ~~[Investigating 3 Axis CNC Processes for Creating 3D Objects](https://scholarworks.uark.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1066\&context=inquiry)~~ - -## YouTube - -1. [Vectric V11 Tutorials: Create Shape Guide](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1OZVCOYlYy8) -2. [Fusion 360 CNC 3D Carving Tutorial](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G3h4Oe2i3Xo) - -## Open-source Designs - -1. [LinuxCNC Rigid CNC Router](https://www.forum.linuxcnc.org/30-cnc-machines/53486-the-linuxcnc-rigid-CNC Router-an-open-source-dual-z-axis-gantry-machine) \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/affordable-cat-house/config.json b/howtos/affordable-cat-house/config.json index ff0e3c12f..9ea6b4f50 100644 --- a/howtos/affordable-cat-house/config.json +++ b/howtos/affordable-cat-house/config.json @@ -39,7 +39,7 @@ }, "slug": "affordable-cat-house", "_deleted": false, - "description": "# How to Draw Custom Shapes and Designs for CNC Cutting\n\nLearn to create unique shapes and designs by hand for CNC machine cutting.", + "description": "How to draw custom shapes and designs by hand and then cut in CNC. ", "votedUsefulBy": [ "adigitalgirl", "sigolene", @@ -60,7 +60,7 @@ { "title": "Draw you design in 1:1 scale", "_animationKey": "unique1", - "text": "For this initial step, we provided scale documents for drawing. Participants then created their designs. Blue lines indicate pocketing (not cutting through the material), while red lines denote profiling (cutting through the material).", + "text": "For this first step, we provided 1:1 scale documents to draw on. Participants then drew their designs. The blue lines are for pocketing (not cutting the material through) and the red lines are for profiling(cutting the material through).", "images": [ { "downloadUrl": "https://firebasestorage.googleapis.com/v0/b/onearmyworld.appspot.com/o/uploads%2Fhowtos%2Fqkgo3Z8uaGoo7nVeayEU%2FIMG_1353-181a5f78c5d.PNG?alt=media&token=a27e0d5a-c56e-428e-a160-349dd5ec683c", @@ -89,7 +89,7 @@ ] }, { - "text": "In this step, we scanned the drawings using a scan filter like CamScanner to ensure a high-contrast image similar to a photocopy.", + "text": "In this step, we scanned(took pictures and used a scan filter like CamScanner) the drawings. The important part is to have a high-contrast image. Something like a photocopy.", "_animationKey": "unique2", "title": "Scanning drawings", "images": [ @@ -133,7 +133,7 @@ }, { "_animationKey": "unique3", - "text": "We used Rhinoceros 3D and the Vectorize plugin to import the drawings as lines in Rhino. We cleaned and simplified the curves using the rebuild command, resulting in smoother curves with fewer control points. Blue lines indicate pocketing, while red lines indicate profiling (cutting through the material).", + "text": "We used the Rhinoceros 3D application and the Vectorize plugin to import the drawings as lines in Rhino. We then cleaned the lines and simplified all the curves using the rebuild command. This ensured smoother curves with fewer control points. Again the blue lines are for pocketing (not cutting the material through) and the red lines are for profiling(cutting the material through).", "images": [ { "fullPath": "uploads/howtos/qkgo3Z8uaGoo7nVeayEU/Screenshot 2022-06-27 at 19.29.12-181a5ff0df0.png", @@ -165,7 +165,7 @@ "alt": "vcarve_pro_with_nested_polyboard_project-900-181a610c49e.jpeg" } ], - "text": "For this step, we used the VCarve application. We input the material's width, length, and thickness. We selected the blue lines for 'pocketing' and the red lines for 'profiling'. Note that this step may vary depending on the machine used.", + "text": "For this step, we used the VCarve application. We entered the width, length, and thickness of our material. Then we selected the blue lines and chose 'pocketing' and for the red lines we chose 'profiling'. Every machine is different so this step will be different for everyone. ", "_animationKey": "uniquecnbgno", "title": "Preparing for CNC" }, @@ -209,12 +209,12 @@ } ], "title": "CNC miling", - "text": "In this step, cut the material according to the designs. Secure the four corners of the sheet material to the CNC bed and input the x, y, and z coordinates of the sheet's corner into the CNC machine. Ensure the cutting pattern is correct from an elevated perspective (z coordinates higher than the material) to avoid the CNC bit hitting screws and to confirm that the design fits properly on the sheet without being offset.", + "text": "This step involves cutting the material according to the designs. For this, we screw four corners of our sheet material to the CNC bed and specify to the CNC machine where are the x, y, and z locations of the corner of the sheet plastic. An important thing to remember is to double-check the cutting pattern from an elevated point (meaning the Z coordinates should be higher than the material) to make sure that the CNC bit is not hitting any of the screws and that the design fits in the sheet nicely and is not offsetted to one side.", "_animationKey": "unique7kc61m" }, { "_animationKey": "uniqueb3f3ks", - "text": "The final step is to assemble all sides of the Affordable Cat Housing using screws. We used two materials: plastic sheets and OSB panels.", + "text": "The last step is to assemble all sides of the Affordable Cat Housing using screws. We used two materials; our plastic sheets and OSB panels. ", "title": "Assembly", "images": [ { @@ -422,9 +422,5 @@ "images": [] } }, - "content": "# How to Draw Custom Shapes and Designs for CNC Cutting\n\nLearn to create unique shapes and designs by hand for CNC machine cutting.\n\n\nUser Location: Istanbul, Turkiye\n\nFor this initial step, we provided scale documents for drawing. Participants then created their designs. Blue lines indicate pocketing (not cutting through the material), while red lines denote profiling (cutting through the material).\n\nIn this step, we scanned the drawings using a scan filter like CamScanner to ensure a high-contrast image similar to a photocopy.\n\nWe used Rhinoceros 3D and the Vectorize plugin to import the drawings as lines in Rhino. We cleaned and simplified the curves using the rebuild command, resulting in smoother curves with fewer control points. Blue lines indicate pocketing, while red lines indicate profiling (cutting through the material).\n\nFor this step, we used the VCarve application. We input the material's width, length, and thickness. We selected the blue lines for 'pocketing' and the red lines for 'profiling'. Note that this step may vary depending on the machine used.\n\nIn this step, cut the material according to the designs. Secure the four corners of the sheet material to the CNC bed and input the x, y, and z coordinates of the sheet's corner into the CNC machine. Ensure the cutting pattern is correct from an elevated perspective (z coordinates higher than the material) to avoid the CNC bit hitting screws and to confirm that the design fits properly on the sheet without being offset.\n\nThe final step is to assemble all sides of the Affordable Cat Housing using screws. We used two materials: plastic sheets and OSB panels.", - "keywords": "CNC cutting, custom shapes design, Rhinoceros 3D, VCarve application, CNC machine cutting, pocketing vs profiling, affordable cat housing, vectorizing drawings, scan filter CamScanner, Istanbul CNC design", - "resources": "### Software\n\n- [CamScanner](https://www.camscanner.com) (high-contrast image scanning)\n- [Rhinoceros 3D](https://www.rhino3d.com) with Vectorize plugin (vectorization)\n- [VCarve](https://www.vectric.com/products/vcarve-pro) (CNC toolpath programming)\n\n### Hardware\n\n- CNC machine (for cutting operations)\n- Screws (securing material to CNC bed and assembly)\n\n### Materials\n\n- Plastic sheets (housing components)\n- OSB panels (structural assembly)", - "references": "## Articles\n\n1. [How to prepare a technical drawing for CNC machining](https://www.hubs.com/knowledge-base/how-prepare-technical-drawing-cnc-machining/)\n2. [Fusion 360 CAM for CNC Beginners](https://www.instructables.com/Fusion-360-CAM-Tutorial-for-CNC-Beginners/)\n3. [CNC Workflow Using Vectric VCarve Pro](https://makerhardware.net/knowledge-base/how-to-guides/cnc-workflow-using-vectric-vcarve-vcarve-pro-for-cnc/)\n4. [Free CNC Software](https://carbide3d.com/learn/free-cnc-software/)\n5. [Make Awesome 3D Geometry by Programming CNC-code](https://www.instructables.com/Make-Awesome-3D-Geometry-by-Programming-CNC-code/)\n6. [EasyEDA Tutorial](https://image.easyeda.com/files/EasyEDA-Tutorial_v6.4.32.pdf)\n\n## Books\n\n1. [Getting Started with CNC: Personal Digital Fabrication](https://www.harvard.com/book/9781457183362)\n2. [Fundamentals of CNC Machining](https://academy.titansofcnc.com/files/Fundamentals_of_CNC_Machining.pdf)\n\n## Papers\n\n1. ~~[Investigating 3 Axis CNC Processes for Creating 3D Objects](https://scholarworks.uark.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1066\\&context=inquiry)~~\n\n## YouTube\n\n1. [Vectric V11 Tutorials: Create Shape Guide](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1OZVCOYlYy8)\n2. [Fusion 360 CNC 3D Carving Tutorial](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G3h4Oe2i3Xo)\n\n## Open-source Designs\n\n1. [LinuxCNC Rigid CNC Router](https://www.forum.linuxcnc.org/30-cnc-machines/53486-the-linuxcnc-rigid-CNC Router-an-open-source-dual-z-axis-gantry-machine)", - "brief": "Learn to draw custom shapes for CNC cutting with step-by-step guidance, from scanning designs to using software like Rhino and VCarve for perfect cuts." + "content": "How to draw custom shapes and designs by hand and then cut in CNC. \n\n\nUser Location: Istanbul, Turkiye\n\nFor this first step, we provided 1:1 scale documents to draw on. Participants then drew their designs. The blue lines are for pocketing (not cutting the material through) and the red lines are for profiling(cutting the material through).\n\nIn this step, we scanned(took pictures and used a scan filter like CamScanner) the drawings. The important part is to have a high-contrast image. Something like a photocopy.\n\nWe used the Rhinoceros 3D application and the Vectorize plugin to import the drawings as lines in Rhino. We then cleaned the lines and simplified all the curves using the rebuild command. This ensured smoother curves with fewer control points. Again the blue lines are for pocketing (not cutting the material through) and the red lines are for profiling(cutting the material through).\n\nFor this step, we used the VCarve application. We entered the width, length, and thickness of our material. Then we selected the blue lines and chose 'pocketing' and for the red lines we chose 'profiling'. Every machine is different so this step will be different for everyone. \n\nThis step involves cutting the material according to the designs. For this, we screw four corners of our sheet material to the CNC bed and specify to the CNC machine where are the x, y, and z locations of the corner of the sheet plastic. An important thing to remember is to double-check the cutting pattern from an elevated point (meaning the Z coordinates should be higher than the material) to make sure that the CNC bit is not hitting any of the screws and that the design fits in the sheet nicely and is not offsetted to one side.\n\nThe last step is to assemble all sides of the Affordable Cat Housing using screws. We used two materials; our plastic sheets and OSB panels. " } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/automated-sheet-press/README.md b/howtos/automated-sheet-press/README.md index fcf0d0b90..a9bad3f2f 100644 --- a/howtos/automated-sheet-press/README.md +++ b/howtos/automated-sheet-press/README.md @@ -1,93 +1,121 @@ --- title: Automated Sheet Press slug: automated-sheet-press -description: This document outlines modifications made to the sheetpress, aiming for automation and reduced time investment. The pressing surface measures 600x600mm (approximately 23.6x23.6 inches), designed for portability and compatibility with standard single-phase 230V (110V) power. For further information, please reach out to us. +description: Here we describe some of the adaptations we made to the sheetpress. It is a step towards an automated version. The main goal was to adapt the sheetpress so that it needs minimal time investment. +Our version has a 600x600mm pressing surface. We chose this size to fit our needs: a transportable machine that runs on standard single phase 230V. + +If you want more info, contact us :) + + tags: ["research","sheetpress","hack"] category: Guides difficulty: Medium time: 1+ months -keywords: sheet press, automation, Raspberry Pi, V4 sheet press, cartridge heaters, type K sensors, MAX31855, pneumatic jack, touch screen interface, Node.js server +keywords: location: Leuven, Belgium --- # Automated Sheet Press ![Automated Sheet Press](sheeppress.jpg) -This document outlines modifications made to the sheetpress, aiming for automation and reduced time investment. The pressing surface measures 600x600mm (approximately 23.6x23.6 inches), designed for portability and compatibility with standard single-phase 230V (110V) power. For further information, please reach out to us. +Here we describe some of the adaptations we made to the sheetpress. It is a step towards an automated version. The main goal was to adapt the sheetpress so that it needs minimal time investment. +Our version has a 600x600mm pressing surface. We chose this size to fit our needs: a transportable machine that runs on standard single phase 230V. + +If you want more info, contact us :) + + User Location: Leuven, Belgium ## Steps ### Step 1: Structure -The foundation is based on the V4 sheet press, maintaining the same press and cartridge heaters but featuring a reduced steel frame with a pressing surface of 23.6 x 23.6 in (600 x 600 mm). We upgraded the bearings for a smoother fit. + +The basics are derived from the V4 sheetpress, with the same press, same cartridge heaters,... but a downsized steel frame so the pressing surface is 600 x 600 mm. + +We changed the bearings for an alternative with a smooth fit. + + + + ![IMG_9406 copy.jpg](./IMG_9406_copy.jpg) ### Step 2: Heating: heater configuration -We designed each heated plate with two distinct loops: an inner loop containing five cartridge heaters and an outer loop with four. The inner loop is expected to retain heat better and will therefore cycle off more frequently. We built a smaller version to facilitate use in mobile workspaces, operating at 230V to enhance compatibility with most power outlets. +We chose to create 2 separate loops in every heated plate (Upper and Lower). One is the core or inside loop (5 cartridge heaters), the other is the outside loop (4 heaters). We expect the center loop to have less heat loss so it will shut down sooner/more.  +One of the reasons we made a small version is to be able to use it in our mobile workspace. Reducing power consumption to 230V increases the chance we can plug it in almost anywhere. + ![IMG_1532 copy.jpg](./IMG_1532_copy.jpg) ### Step 3: Heating: sensor configuration -We added multiple type K sensors (eight on each heating plate) to create an accurate heat map, allowing us to identify issues such as overheating or broken heaters. These sensors enable monitoring of core and peripheral temperatures, including warming and cooling speeds and fluctuations. The sensors are evenly distributed and not linked to specific heaters. Usage of this data will be explained in a subsequent step. +We added multiple type K sensors (eighth on each heating plate) to have an accurate heat map so we can identify problems: overheating, broken heaters,... These sensors also make it possible to check how the core and peripheral temperatures are behaving ( warming and cooling speed, fluctuations,...) +Sensors are distributed evenly, not linked to specific heaters. + +How we use this data will be explained in a later step. + ![IMG_1884 copy.jpg](./IMG_1884_copy.jpg) ### Step 4: Heating : Digital PID -We replaced the original hardware PID controllers with a software version on the machine controller. This change enables further automation, data logging, and smoother integration into the user interface. It also allows us to monitor pressing times and maximum temperatures for optimized machine usage. +We switched out the original hardware PID's for a software implementation on the machine controller. This allows further automatisation, data logging and a fluent integration in the user control interface. We also can track (monitor) pressing times and (max) temperatures to optimize the machine use.  + ![IMG_1685.JPG](./IMG_1685.JPG) ### Step 5: heater and sensor connection -Currently, the thermocouples connect to a differential ADC designed for Raspberry Pi by AB Electronics. To enhance sensor performance, these will be replaced with a MAX31855, an integrated circuit by Maxim Integrated for type-K thermocouples. The heating elements are divided into four circuits—two per plate, with one outer and one inner circuit. Each circuit is controlled by the Raspberry Pi via a solid-state relay. These relays switch 230V AC and can be controlled with a 4V-48V signal. To safeguard the Pi from 230V AC short circuits, the relay drive signals are optically isolated. +At the moment the thermocouples are connected to a differential adc, specially made for the raspberry Pi from AB Electronics. To improve the functionality of the sensors, these adc’s will be replaced with a MAX31855. This is an integrated circuit from Maxim Integrated, dedicated to reading type-K thermocouples. The heating elements are divided into 4 circuits, 2 per plate, one outer circuit and one inner. Each circuit is controlled by the raspberry pi through a solid state relay. These relays are made to switch 230v AC and are controllable using a 4v-48v signal. To protect the pi from short circuits to the 230V ac the drive signals for the relays are optically isolated.   + ![IMG_2914 copy.jpg](./IMG_2914_copy.jpg) ### Step 6: Digital interface -The digital interface operates on a Raspberry Pi connected to a touch screen. It comprises a server and a client side. The client side is a website accessible from the Pi’s browser or any device connected to the Raspberry Pi's Wi-Fi. The server is built using Node.js. +The digital interface runs on a Raspberry Pi that is connected with a touch screen. It is split up into two parts, the server part and the client side. The client side is a website that you can access from the Pi’s browser or from any device that is connected to the wifi on the raspberry Pi. The server is made with Nodejs.  + ![IMG_2914 copy.jpg](./IMG_2914_copy.jpg) ### Step 7: Sheetmaker part 1 -- The sheet maker page enables users to create an automated sheet, allowing selection of plastic type and desired sheet thickness. Metal frames determine thickness and sheet size/shape. The system calculates the necessary weight for production and displays the required time and temperature. -- Next, initiate the heating process while setting up the sheet on the prep table. The system adjusts to the appropriate temperature for each plastic type automatically. +• The sheet maker page allows users to make an automated sheet. It is possible to select the type of plastic and the required thickness of the sheet. We use metal frames to set thickness and sheet size/shape. Based on these parameters the screen will indicate the weight needed to produce the sheet. The time and temperature needed to make a sheet is also displayed.  +• In the following step it is possible to start the  heating process. This can be done while preparing the sheet on the prep table. The system automatically sets the correct temperature for each plastic type. + ![Screenshot 2020-10-16 at 21.07.20.png](./Screenshot_2020-10-16_at_21.07.20.png) ### Step 8: sheetmaker part 2 -- Once the plates reach the desired temperature, insert the prep sheet and select the press function. This initiates automated pressing and activates the timer. Periodically, the system will maintain pressure with an alert sound as a warning. -- During pressing, choose options for subsequent steps: either automatic opening to 4 inches (10 cm) when the timer ends or remain closed. In both scenarios, heating will cease. -- An alert sound signals the timer's completion. +•  When the plates are up to temperature and the prep sheet is inserted the operator needs to select the press function. This will start the automated pressing and the timer. Every few minutes the system activates to maintain pressure. A notification sound is played in advance to warn operators.  +• While the sheet maker is pressing options for further steps can be chosen : automatic open (to 10cm) when the timer finishes or stay closed. In both cases the heating will be stopped.  +• A sound indicates the timer had run out. + ![Screenshot 2020-10-16 at 21.07.42.png](./Screenshot_2020-10-16_at_21.07.42.png) ### Step 9: Sheetmaker part 3 -- Upon completion, you may replicate the process or restart. -- These steps may be manually controlled on the controls page. Each of the four heating circuits can be adjusted for temperature and to open or close the press. Manual controls are not available when the sheet maker is operating automatically. -- Two heating maps for each plate are available on the graphs page, enabling users to monitor each heating element. Additionally, there are two graphs: one showing the average temperature over the last 15 minutes and another displaying the last 2 hours. +• When finished you can choose to make the same or go back to the first step.  +• All these steps can be controlled manually on the controls page. Each of the 4 heating circuits can be set to the desired temperature and open or close the press. While the sheet maker is making an automated sheet there is no access to the manual controls .  +• There are 2 heating maps from each plate on the graphs page, this allows users to  monitor each heating element. There are  also 2 graphs: one that displays the average temperature from the last 15 minutes and one that displays the last 2 hours. ![Screenshot 2020-10-16 at 21.08.43.png](./Screenshot_2020-10-16_at_21.08.43.png) ### Step 10: sheetmaker part 4 -- The history tab displays all sheets produced using the automated process, including their ID numbers, average and highest temperatures, plastic types, and pressing durations. +• The history tab will show you all the sheets that are made with the automated process. It will show the id number, the average temp, the highest temp, the plastic type and how long it was in the press.  -- The calculator function enables preparation of the next sheet while the machine is in operation. +• The calculator function allows to prepare a following sheet while the machine is in use. ![Screenshot 2020-10-16 at 21.09.07.png](./Screenshot_2020-10-16_at_21.09.07.png) @@ -97,9 +125,11 @@ The digital interface operates on a Raspberry Pi connected to a touch screen. It ### Step 11: Pressing: pneumatic system -We utilize pneumatics to operate the jack due to the availability of an air compressor, making it the cost-effective option. Alternatives include hydraulic systems. A pneumatic valve, controlled by the system controller, allows air to flow when the press is to be raised. To lower the press, we installed a servo to open or close the valve, letting the press descend under its own weight. +We use pneumatics to operate the jack. It was the cheapest option as we have an air compressor available. Other alternatives would be hydraulic systems. A pneumatic valve, controlled by the system controller let’s air go through when the press needs to be raised. To release the press we installed a servo that can open or close the valve to lower the press (it opens because of its weight)  + +When the timer runs out (sheetmaker) a signal sent by the Raspberry pi tells the Arduino to release the press. This can be manually overruled if needed.  + -Upon timer expiration (sheetmaker), a signal from the Raspberry Pi prompts the Arduino to release the press, with manual override possible if necessary. ![IMG_2912 copy.jpg](./IMG_2912_copy.jpg) @@ -109,7 +139,8 @@ Upon timer expiration (sheetmaker), a signal from the Raspberry Pi prompts the A ### Step 12: pressing: height sensor -A sensor is attached to the upper plate to measure the distance to a reflector on the lower plate. The casing, a sliced PVC tube, limits interference. This measurement is sent to the Arduino, allowing the machine to determine the plates' positions and manage air flow. The sensor used is a Time of Flight Sensor VL6180. +There is a sensor attached to the upper plate measuring the distance to a reflector mounted on the lower plate. The casing is a sliced PVC tube to limit interference. This measurement is sent to the arduino and allows the machine to know the position of the plates, when to add air and when to release. The sensor we used is a Time Of Flight Sensor vl6180.  + ![_MG_9389.JPG](./_MG_9389.JPG) @@ -118,46 +149,4 @@ A sensor is attached to the upper plate to measure the distance to a reflector o ![IMG_1655.JPG](./IMG_1655.JPG) ## Resources -### Tools - -- Sheetpress with 600x600mm heated plates and upgraded bearings ~~[🔗](https://example.com/sheetpress)~~ -- Cartridge heaters (5 inner/4 outer per plate) ~~[🔗](https://example.com/cartridge-heaters)~~ -- 16 type-K thermocouples (8 per plate) for heat mapping ~~[🔗](https://example.com/thermocouples)~~ -- Pneumatic valve system with air compressor and servo control ~~[🔗](https://example.com/pneumatic-valve)~~ -- Custom metal thickness/size frames - -### Hardware - -- Raspberry Pi with touchscreen interface ~~[🔗](https://www.raspberrypi.com/)~~ -- MAX31855 thermocouple interface (replaces AB Electronics ADC) [🔗](https://www.analog.com/max31855) -- Solid-state relays (230V AC, 4V–48V DC control) ~~[🔗](https://example.com/ssr)~~ -- VL6180 Time-of-Flight distance sensor [🔗](https://www.st.com/en/imaging-and-photonics-solutions/vl6180.html) -- Arduino Nano for pneumatic valve control [🔗](https://www.arduino.cc/) - -### Software - -- Node.js server backend [🔗](https://nodejs.org/) -- Web-based client interface (local network) -- Custom PID controller software for temperature regulation -- Automated sheet production calculator with material/thickness presets -- Real-time graphing (15-minute/2-hour temperature history) -## References -Here are the references grouped by type based on the search results provided: - -## Articles - -- [Automate Offset Press Process Control | Using X-Rite Solutions](https://www.xrite.com/learning-color-education/using-our-solutions/automate-offset-press) -- [Advanced ex-press sheet management for improved quality and productivity](https://www.tappi.org/product_pull/04/aug/advanced-ex-press-sheet-management-for-improved-quality-and/) -- [Sheetfed Offset Printing Press Automation Advancements](https://www.piworld.com/article/sheetfed-offset-printing-press-automation-advancements/) -- [Printing Industry Automation & Control Systems](https://www.industrialautomation.us/industries/printing/) -- ~~[Product Spotlight: Canon Press Automation Modules—Optimizing & Simplifying Printing](https://whattheythink.com/articles/111446-product-spotlight-canon-press-automation-modulesoptimizing-simplifying-printing/)~~ -- [Automation in Offset: Simplifying Production and Increasing Profitability](https://www.packagingimpressions.com/article/automation-in-offset-simplifying-production-and-increasing-profitability/) - -## Books - -- [Hands-On Data Visualization: Interactive Charts and Customized Maps](https://handsondataviz.org/HandsOnDataViz.pdf) - -## Papers - -- [Sprague Achieves Higher Automation Levels By Replacing DCS with Digital Architecture](https://www.emerson.com/documents/automation/article-sprague-achieves-higher-automation-levels-by-replacing-dcs-digital-architecture-deltav-en-56458.pdf) -- [Shreyans Doubled Productivity by Installing Process Automation System](https://ippta.co/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/IPPTA-71-29-35-Shreyans-Doubled-its.pdf) \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/automated-sheet-press/config.json b/howtos/automated-sheet-press/config.json index 8c1a81bc1..ef6c97b91 100644 --- a/howtos/automated-sheet-press/config.json +++ b/howtos/automated-sheet-press/config.json @@ -97,7 +97,7 @@ "alt": "IMG_9406 copy.jpg" } ], - "text": "The foundation is based on the V4 sheet press, maintaining the same press and cartridge heaters but featuring a reduced steel frame with a pressing surface of 23.6 x 23.6 in (600 x 600 mm). We upgraded the bearings for a smoother fit.", + "text": "\nThe basics are derived from the V4 sheetpress, with the same press, same cartridge heaters,... but a downsized steel frame so the pressing surface is 600 x 600 mm. \n\nWe changed the bearings for an alternative with a smooth fit.\n\n\n\n", "_animationKey": "unique3", "title": "Structure" }, @@ -118,7 +118,7 @@ ], "_animationKey": "unique1", "title": "Heating: heater configuration", - "text": "We designed each heated plate with two distinct loops: an inner loop containing five cartridge heaters and an outer loop with four. The inner loop is expected to retain heat better and will therefore cycle off more frequently. We built a smaller version to facilitate use in mobile workspaces, operating at 230V to enhance compatibility with most power outlets." + "text": "We chose to create 2 separate loops in every heated plate (Upper and Lower). One is the core or inside loop (5 cartridge heaters), the other is the outside loop (4 heaters). We expect the center loop to have less heat loss so it will shut down sooner/more. \nOne of the reasons we made a small version is to be able to use it in our mobile workspace. Reducing power consumption to 230V increases the chance we can plug it in almost anywhere.\n" }, { "images": [ @@ -136,12 +136,12 @@ } ], "_animationKey": "unique2", - "text": "We added multiple type K sensors (eight on each heating plate) to create an accurate heat map, allowing us to identify issues such as overheating or broken heaters. These sensors enable monitoring of core and peripheral temperatures, including warming and cooling speeds and fluctuations. The sensors are evenly distributed and not linked to specific heaters. Usage of this data will be explained in a subsequent step.", + "text": "We added multiple type K sensors (eighth on each heating plate) to have an accurate heat map so we can identify problems: overheating, broken heaters,... These sensors also make it possible to check how the core and peripheral temperatures are behaving ( warming and cooling speed, fluctuations,...)\nSensors are distributed evenly, not linked to specific heaters.\n\nHow we use this data will be explained in a later step.\n", "title": "Heating: sensor configuration" }, { "_animationKey": "uniqueu3bc3v", - "text": "We replaced the original hardware PID controllers with a software version on the machine controller. This change enables further automation, data logging, and smoother integration into the user interface. It also allows us to monitor pressing times and maximum temperatures for optimized machine usage.", + "text": "We switched out the original hardware PID's for a software implementation on the machine controller. This allows further automatisation, data logging and a fluent integration in the user control interface. We also can track (monitor) pressing times and (max) temperatures to optimize the machine use. \n", "title": "Heating : Digital PID", "images": [ { @@ -174,12 +174,12 @@ "alt": "IMG_2914 copy.jpg" } ], - "text": "Currently, the thermocouples connect to a differential ADC designed for Raspberry Pi by AB Electronics. To enhance sensor performance, these will be replaced with a MAX31855, an integrated circuit by Maxim Integrated for type-K thermocouples. The heating elements are divided into four circuits—two per plate, with one outer and one inner circuit. Each circuit is controlled by the Raspberry Pi via a solid-state relay. These relays switch 230V AC and can be controlled with a 4V-48V signal. To safeguard the Pi from 230V AC short circuits, the relay drive signals are optically isolated.", + "text": "At the moment the thermocouples are connected to a differential adc, specially made for the raspberry Pi from AB Electronics. To improve the functionality of the sensors, these adc’s will be replaced with a MAX31855. This is an integrated circuit from Maxim Integrated, dedicated to reading type-K thermocouples. The heating elements are divided into 4 circuits, 2 per plate, one outer circuit and one inner. Each circuit is controlled by the raspberry pi through a solid state relay. These relays are made to switch 230v AC and are controllable using a 4v-48v signal. To protect the pi from short circuits to the 230V ac the drive signals for the relays are optically isolated.  \n", "_animationKey": "uniquef7kdzl" }, { "title": "Digital interface", - "text": "The digital interface operates on a Raspberry Pi connected to a touch screen. It comprises a server and a client side. The client side is a website accessible from the Pi’s browser or any device connected to the Raspberry Pi's Wi-Fi. The server is built using Node.js.", + "text": "The digital interface runs on a Raspberry Pi that is connected with a touch screen. It is split up into two parts, the server part and the client side. The client side is a website that you can access from the Pi’s browser or from any device that is connected to the wifi on the raspberry Pi. The server is made with Nodejs. \n", "images": [ { "contentType": "image/jpeg", @@ -213,7 +213,7 @@ "alt": "Screenshot 2020-10-16 at 21.07.20.png" } ], - "text": "- The sheet maker page enables users to create an automated sheet, allowing selection of plastic type and desired sheet thickness. Metal frames determine thickness and sheet size/shape. The system calculates the necessary weight for production and displays the required time and temperature.\n- Next, initiate the heating process while setting up the sheet on the prep table. The system adjusts to the appropriate temperature for each plastic type automatically." + "text": "•\tThe sheet maker page allows users to make an automated sheet. It is possible to select the type of plastic and the required thickness of the sheet. We use metal frames to set thickness and sheet size/shape. Based on these parameters the screen will indicate the weight needed to produce the sheet. The time and temperature needed to make a sheet is also displayed. \n•\tIn the following step it is possible to start the  heating process. This can be done while preparing the sheet on the prep table. The system automatically sets the correct temperature for each plastic type.\n " }, { "images": [ @@ -232,7 +232,7 @@ ], "title": "sheetmaker part 2", "_animationKey": "uniquexsag67", - "text": "- Once the plates reach the desired temperature, insert the prep sheet and select the press function. This initiates automated pressing and activates the timer. Periodically, the system will maintain pressure with an alert sound as a warning.\n- During pressing, choose options for subsequent steps: either automatic opening to 4 inches (10 cm) when the timer ends or remain closed. In both scenarios, heating will cease.\n- An alert sound signals the timer's completion." + "text": "•\t When the plates are up to temperature and the prep sheet is inserted the operator needs to select the press function. This will start the automated pressing and the timer. Every few minutes the system activates to maintain pressure. A notification sound is played in advance to warn operators. \n•\tWhile the sheet maker is pressing options for further steps can be chosen : automatic open (to 10cm) when the timer finishes or stay closed. In both cases the heating will be stopped. \n•\tA sound indicates the timer had run out.\n" }, { "images": [ @@ -251,7 +251,7 @@ ], "title": "Sheetmaker part 3", "_animationKey": "uniqueyyaoh", - "text": "- Upon completion, you may replicate the process or restart.\n- These steps may be manually controlled on the controls page. Each of the four heating circuits can be adjusted for temperature and to open or close the press. Manual controls are not available when the sheet maker is operating automatically.\n- Two heating maps for each plate are available on the graphs page, enabling users to monitor each heating element. Additionally, there are two graphs: one showing the average temperature over the last 15 minutes and another displaying the last 2 hours." + "text": "•\tWhen finished you can choose to make the same or go back to the first step. \n•\tAll these steps can be controlled manually on the controls page. Each of the 4 heating circuits can be set to the desired temperature and open or close the press. While the sheet maker is making an automated sheet there is no access to the manual controls . \n•\tThere are 2 heating maps from each plate on the graphs page, this allows users to  monitor each heating element. There are  also 2 graphs: one that displays the average temperature from the last 15 minutes and one that displays the last 2 hours." }, { "title": "sheetmaker part 4", @@ -281,7 +281,7 @@ "alt": "Screenshot 2020-10-16 at 21.09.13.png" } ], - "text": "- The history tab displays all sheets produced using the automated process, including their ID numbers, average and highest temperatures, plastic types, and pressing durations.\n\n- The calculator function enables preparation of the next sheet while the machine is in operation.", + "text": "•\tThe history tab will show you all the sheets that are made with the automated process. It will show the id number, the average temp, the highest temp, the plastic type and how long it was in the press. \n\n•\tThe calculator function allows to prepare a following sheet while the machine is in use. ", "_animationKey": "uniquea0func" }, { @@ -311,7 +311,7 @@ "alt": "IMG_2913 copy.jpg" } ], - "text": "We utilize pneumatics to operate the jack due to the availability of an air compressor, making it the cost-effective option. Alternatives include hydraulic systems. A pneumatic valve, controlled by the system controller, allows air to flow when the press is to be raised. To lower the press, we installed a servo to open or close the valve, letting the press descend under its own weight.\n\nUpon timer expiration (sheetmaker), a signal from the Raspberry Pi prompts the Arduino to release the press, with manual override possible if necessary.", + "text": "We use pneumatics to operate the jack. It was the cheapest option as we have an air compressor available. Other alternatives would be hydraulic systems. A pneumatic valve, controlled by the system controller let’s air go through when the press needs to be raised. To release the press we installed a servo that can open or close the valve to lower the press (it opens because of its weight) \n\nWhen the timer runs out (sheetmaker) a signal sent by the Raspberry pi tells the Arduino to release the press. This can be manually overruled if needed. \n\n", "_animationKey": "unique6x8nto", "title": "Pressing: pneumatic system" }, @@ -343,7 +343,7 @@ } ], "_animationKey": "uniqueuyvzyr", - "text": "A sensor is attached to the upper plate to measure the distance to a reflector on the lower plate. The casing, a sliced PVC tube, limits interference. This measurement is sent to the Arduino, allowing the machine to determine the plates' positions and manage air flow. The sensor used is a Time of Flight Sensor VL6180.", + "text": "There is a sensor attached to the upper plate measuring the distance to a reflector mounted on the lower plate. The casing is a sliced PVC tube to limit interference. This measurement is sent to the arduino and allows the machine to know the position of the plates, when to add air and when to release. The sensor we used is a Time Of Flight Sensor vl6180. \n", "title": "pressing: height sensor" } ], @@ -355,7 +355,7 @@ "sheetpress", "hack" ], - "description": "This document outlines modifications made to the sheetpress, aiming for automation and reduced time investment. The pressing surface measures 600x600mm (approximately 23.6x23.6 inches), designed for portability and compatibility with standard single-phase 230V (110V) power. For further information, please reach out to us.", + "description": "Here we describe some of the adaptations we made to the sheetpress. It is a step towards an automated version. The main goal was to adapt the sheetpress so that it needs minimal time investment. \nOur version has a 600x600mm pressing surface. We chose this size to fit our needs: a transportable machine that runs on standard single phase 230V.\n\nIf you want more info, contact us :)\n\n", "mentions": [], "fileLink": "", "user": { @@ -530,9 +530,5 @@ "images": [] } }, - "content": "This document outlines modifications made to the sheetpress, aiming for automation and reduced time investment. The pressing surface measures 600x600mm (approximately 23.6x23.6 inches), designed for portability and compatibility with standard single-phase 230V (110V) power. For further information, please reach out to us.\n\n\nUser Location: Leuven, Belgium\n\nThe foundation is based on the V4 sheet press, maintaining the same press and cartridge heaters but featuring a reduced steel frame with a pressing surface of 23.6 x 23.6 in (600 x 600 mm). We upgraded the bearings for a smoother fit.\n\nWe designed each heated plate with two distinct loops: an inner loop containing five cartridge heaters and an outer loop with four. The inner loop is expected to retain heat better and will therefore cycle off more frequently. We built a smaller version to facilitate use in mobile workspaces, operating at 230V to enhance compatibility with most power outlets.\n\nWe added multiple type K sensors (eight on each heating plate) to create an accurate heat map, allowing us to identify issues such as overheating or broken heaters. These sensors enable monitoring of core and peripheral temperatures, including warming and cooling speeds and fluctuations. The sensors are evenly distributed and not linked to specific heaters. Usage of this data will be explained in a subsequent step.\n\nWe replaced the original hardware PID controllers with a software version on the machine controller. This change enables further automation, data logging, and smoother integration into the user interface. It also allows us to monitor pressing times and maximum temperatures for optimized machine usage.\n\nCurrently, the thermocouples connect to a differential ADC designed for Raspberry Pi by AB Electronics. To enhance sensor performance, these will be replaced with a MAX31855, an integrated circuit by Maxim Integrated for type-K thermocouples. The heating elements are divided into four circuits—two per plate, with one outer and one inner circuit. Each circuit is controlled by the Raspberry Pi via a solid-state relay. These relays switch 230V AC and can be controlled with a 4V-48V signal. To safeguard the Pi from 230V AC short circuits, the relay drive signals are optically isolated.\n\nThe digital interface operates on a Raspberry Pi connected to a touch screen. It comprises a server and a client side. The client side is a website accessible from the Pi’s browser or any device connected to the Raspberry Pi's Wi-Fi. The server is built using Node.js.\n\n- The sheet maker page enables users to create an automated sheet, allowing selection of plastic type and desired sheet thickness. Metal frames determine thickness and sheet size/shape. The system calculates the necessary weight for production and displays the required time and temperature.\n- Next, initiate the heating process while setting up the sheet on the prep table. The system adjusts to the appropriate temperature for each plastic type automatically.\n\n- Once the plates reach the desired temperature, insert the prep sheet and select the press function. This initiates automated pressing and activates the timer. Periodically, the system will maintain pressure with an alert sound as a warning.\n- During pressing, choose options for subsequent steps: either automatic opening to 4 inches (10 cm) when the timer ends or remain closed. In both scenarios, heating will cease.\n- An alert sound signals the timer's completion.\n\n- Upon completion, you may replicate the process or restart.\n- These steps may be manually controlled on the controls page. Each of the four heating circuits can be adjusted for temperature and to open or close the press. Manual controls are not available when the sheet maker is operating automatically.\n- Two heating maps for each plate are available on the graphs page, enabling users to monitor each heating element. Additionally, there are two graphs: one showing the average temperature over the last 15 minutes and another displaying the last 2 hours.\n\n- The history tab displays all sheets produced using the automated process, including their ID numbers, average and highest temperatures, plastic types, and pressing durations.\n\n- The calculator function enables preparation of the next sheet while the machine is in operation.\n\nWe utilize pneumatics to operate the jack due to the availability of an air compressor, making it the cost-effective option. Alternatives include hydraulic systems. A pneumatic valve, controlled by the system controller, allows air to flow when the press is to be raised. To lower the press, we installed a servo to open or close the valve, letting the press descend under its own weight.\n\nUpon timer expiration (sheetmaker), a signal from the Raspberry Pi prompts the Arduino to release the press, with manual override possible if necessary.\n\nA sensor is attached to the upper plate to measure the distance to a reflector on the lower plate. The casing, a sliced PVC tube, limits interference. This measurement is sent to the Arduino, allowing the machine to determine the plates' positions and manage air flow. The sensor used is a Time of Flight Sensor VL6180.", - "keywords": "sheet press, automation, Raspberry Pi, V4 sheet press, cartridge heaters, type K sensors, MAX31855, pneumatic jack, touch screen interface, Node.js server", - "resources": "### Tools\n\n- Sheetpress with 600x600mm heated plates and upgraded bearings ~~[🔗](https://example.com/sheetpress)~~\n- Cartridge heaters (5 inner/4 outer per plate) ~~[🔗](https://example.com/cartridge-heaters)~~\n- 16 type-K thermocouples (8 per plate) for heat mapping ~~[🔗](https://example.com/thermocouples)~~\n- Pneumatic valve system with air compressor and servo control ~~[🔗](https://example.com/pneumatic-valve)~~\n- Custom metal thickness/size frames\n\n### Hardware\n\n- Raspberry Pi with touchscreen interface ~~[🔗](https://www.raspberrypi.com/)~~\n- MAX31855 thermocouple interface (replaces AB Electronics ADC) [🔗](https://www.analog.com/max31855)\n- Solid-state relays (230V AC, 4V–48V DC control) ~~[🔗](https://example.com/ssr)~~\n- VL6180 Time-of-Flight distance sensor [🔗](https://www.st.com/en/imaging-and-photonics-solutions/vl6180.html)\n- Arduino Nano for pneumatic valve control [🔗](https://www.arduino.cc/)\n\n### Software\n\n- Node.js server backend [🔗](https://nodejs.org/)\n- Web-based client interface (local network)\n- Custom PID controller software for temperature regulation\n- Automated sheet production calculator with material/thickness presets\n- Real-time graphing (15-minute/2-hour temperature history)", - "references": "Here are the references grouped by type based on the search results provided:\n\n## Articles\n\n- [Automate Offset Press Process Control | Using X-Rite Solutions](https://www.xrite.com/learning-color-education/using-our-solutions/automate-offset-press)\n- [Advanced ex-press sheet management for improved quality and productivity](https://www.tappi.org/product_pull/04/aug/advanced-ex-press-sheet-management-for-improved-quality-and/)\n- [Sheetfed Offset Printing Press Automation Advancements](https://www.piworld.com/article/sheetfed-offset-printing-press-automation-advancements/)\n- [Printing Industry Automation & Control Systems](https://www.industrialautomation.us/industries/printing/)\n- ~~[Product Spotlight: Canon Press Automation Modules—Optimizing & Simplifying Printing](https://whattheythink.com/articles/111446-product-spotlight-canon-press-automation-modulesoptimizing-simplifying-printing/)~~\n- [Automation in Offset: Simplifying Production and Increasing Profitability](https://www.packagingimpressions.com/article/automation-in-offset-simplifying-production-and-increasing-profitability/)\n\n## Books\n\n- [Hands-On Data Visualization: Interactive Charts and Customized Maps](https://handsondataviz.org/HandsOnDataViz.pdf)\n\n## Papers\n\n- [Sprague Achieves Higher Automation Levels By Replacing DCS with Digital Architecture](https://www.emerson.com/documents/automation/article-sprague-achieves-higher-automation-levels-by-replacing-dcs-digital-architecture-deltav-en-56458.pdf)\n- [Shreyans Doubled Productivity by Installing Process Automation System](https://ippta.co/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/IPPTA-71-29-35-Shreyans-Doubled-its.pdf)", - "brief": "Automate and streamline your sheet-making with our portable sheet press. Featuring a 600x600mm surface, advanced heating controls, and Raspberry Pi integration for efficient use." + "content": "Here we describe some of the adaptations we made to the sheetpress. It is a step towards an automated version. The main goal was to adapt the sheetpress so that it needs minimal time investment. \nOur version has a 600x600mm pressing surface. We chose this size to fit our needs: a transportable machine that runs on standard single phase 230V.\n\nIf you want more info, contact us :)\n\n\n\n\nUser Location: Leuven, Belgium\n\n\nThe basics are derived from the V4 sheetpress, with the same press, same cartridge heaters,... but a downsized steel frame so the pressing surface is 600 x 600 mm. \n\nWe changed the bearings for an alternative with a smooth fit.\n\n\n\n\n\nWe chose to create 2 separate loops in every heated plate (Upper and Lower). One is the core or inside loop (5 cartridge heaters), the other is the outside loop (4 heaters). We expect the center loop to have less heat loss so it will shut down sooner/more. \nOne of the reasons we made a small version is to be able to use it in our mobile workspace. Reducing power consumption to 230V increases the chance we can plug it in almost anywhere.\n\n\nWe added multiple type K sensors (eighth on each heating plate) to have an accurate heat map so we can identify problems: overheating, broken heaters,... These sensors also make it possible to check how the core and peripheral temperatures are behaving ( warming and cooling speed, fluctuations,...)\nSensors are distributed evenly, not linked to specific heaters.\n\nHow we use this data will be explained in a later step.\n\n\nWe switched out the original hardware PID's for a software implementation on the machine controller. This allows further automatisation, data logging and a fluent integration in the user control interface. We also can track (monitor) pressing times and (max) temperatures to optimize the machine use. \n\n\nAt the moment the thermocouples are connected to a differential adc, specially made for the raspberry Pi from AB Electronics. To improve the functionality of the sensors, these adc’s will be replaced with a MAX31855. This is an integrated circuit from Maxim Integrated, dedicated to reading type-K thermocouples. The heating elements are divided into 4 circuits, 2 per plate, one outer circuit and one inner. Each circuit is controlled by the raspberry pi through a solid state relay. These relays are made to switch 230v AC and are controllable using a 4v-48v signal. To protect the pi from short circuits to the 230V ac the drive signals for the relays are optically isolated.  \n\n\nThe digital interface runs on a Raspberry Pi that is connected with a touch screen. It is split up into two parts, the server part and the client side. The client side is a website that you can access from the Pi’s browser or from any device that is connected to the wifi on the raspberry Pi. The server is made with Nodejs. \n\n\n•\tThe sheet maker page allows users to make an automated sheet. It is possible to select the type of plastic and the required thickness of the sheet. We use metal frames to set thickness and sheet size/shape. Based on these parameters the screen will indicate the weight needed to produce the sheet. The time and temperature needed to make a sheet is also displayed. \n•\tIn the following step it is possible to start the  heating process. This can be done while preparing the sheet on the prep table. The system automatically sets the correct temperature for each plastic type.\n \n\n•\t When the plates are up to temperature and the prep sheet is inserted the operator needs to select the press function. This will start the automated pressing and the timer. Every few minutes the system activates to maintain pressure. A notification sound is played in advance to warn operators. \n•\tWhile the sheet maker is pressing options for further steps can be chosen : automatic open (to 10cm) when the timer finishes or stay closed. In both cases the heating will be stopped. \n•\tA sound indicates the timer had run out.\n\n\n•\tWhen finished you can choose to make the same or go back to the first step. \n•\tAll these steps can be controlled manually on the controls page. Each of the 4 heating circuits can be set to the desired temperature and open or close the press. While the sheet maker is making an automated sheet there is no access to the manual controls . \n•\tThere are 2 heating maps from each plate on the graphs page, this allows users to  monitor each heating element. There are  also 2 graphs: one that displays the average temperature from the last 15 minutes and one that displays the last 2 hours.\n\n•\tThe history tab will show you all the sheets that are made with the automated process. It will show the id number, the average temp, the highest temp, the plastic type and how long it was in the press. \n\n•\tThe calculator function allows to prepare a following sheet while the machine is in use. \n\nWe use pneumatics to operate the jack. It was the cheapest option as we have an air compressor available. Other alternatives would be hydraulic systems. A pneumatic valve, controlled by the system controller let’s air go through when the press needs to be raised. To release the press we installed a servo that can open or close the valve to lower the press (it opens because of its weight) \n\nWhen the timer runs out (sheetmaker) a signal sent by the Raspberry pi tells the Arduino to release the press. This can be manually overruled if needed. \n\n\n\nThere is a sensor attached to the upper plate measuring the distance to a reflector mounted on the lower plate. The casing is a sliced PVC tube to limit interference. This measurement is sent to the arduino and allows the machine to know the position of the plates, when to add air and when to release. The sensor we used is a Time Of Flight Sensor vl6180. \n" } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/become-an-authorized-dealer/README.md b/howtos/become-an-authorized-dealer/README.md index 1c8b46848..fcfd24bed 100644 --- a/howtos/become-an-authorized-dealer/README.md +++ b/howtos/become-an-authorized-dealer/README.md @@ -1,83 +1,57 @@ --- title: Become an Authorized Dealer slug: become-an-authorized-dealer -description: The "Kwik BagIt Closed-Loop Rewards System" requires a signed Non-Disclosure Agreement for complete details. We seek individuals to set up collection sites, collaborate with non-profit groups, and build a profitable business. This opportunity is available globally. A video explains our mission and the need for local dealers worldwide. +description: The Patent Pending "Kwik BagIt Closed-Loop Rewards Recycling System" is proprietary and requires a Non-Disclosure to be signed before all details can be shared. + +In short, we are seeking individuals who are interested in establishing collection sites in your community, working with non-profit groups who will be able to receive payment for their services, and creating a profitable business with our "System". This is a ground-floor opportunity and is available anywhere in the world. + +The following video will give our Mission Statement and why + we are seeking dealers across the globe to develop the business in their local area. + tags: ["starterkit","collection","sorting"] category: Guides difficulty: Medium time: 1-2 weeks -keywords: Kwik BagIt System, Closed-Loop Rewards, Non-Disclosure Agreement, collection sites, global business opportunity, local dealers, Saskatoon recycling, plastic waste reduction, profitable recycling, authorized dealers +keywords: location: Saskatoon, Canada --- # Become an Authorized Dealer ![Become an Authorized Dealer](IMG-2067_1-1818f3abca4.jpg) -The "Kwik BagIt Closed-Loop Rewards System" requires a signed Non-Disclosure Agreement for complete details. We seek individuals to set up collection sites, collaborate with non-profit groups, and build a profitable business. This opportunity is available globally. A video explains our mission and the need for local dealers worldwide. +The Patent Pending "Kwik BagIt Closed-Loop Rewards Recycling System" is proprietary and requires a Non-Disclosure to be signed before all details can be shared. + +In short, we are seeking individuals who are interested in establishing collection sites in your community, working with non-profit groups who will be able to receive payment for their services, and creating a profitable business with our "System". This is a ground-floor opportunity and is available anywhere in the world. + +The following video will give our Mission Statement and why + we are seeking dealers across the globe to develop the business in their local area. + User Location: Saskatoon, Canada ## Steps ### Step 1: Contamination and Co-mingling -I'm sorry, I need a bit more context or clarification to provide the Markdown content you need. Could you please give me more details or specify what you'd like? +These are 2 of the main reason why MRFs are failing and we have proprietary information that relates to the Patent Pending "Systems" which will be revealed upon signing a nondisclosure with Kwik BagIt. + +The attached video link will give a basic understanding. +Contact us for more information ### Step 2: Establishing a Non-Profit Group to work with -The "Kwik BagIt System" is designed to engage households, businesses, and non-profit organizations in a rewarding, revenue-generating activity. Contact us for more information. +The Patent Pending "Kwik BagIt Closed-Loop Rewards Recycling System" is designed to reward the household and commercial businesses as well as the non-profit groups who will also participate in a lucrative revenue-based activity that will be essential to the profit and success of your dealership. Contact us for more details. ![KBI BROCHURE OUTSIDE-1818f4da1d2.png](./KBI_BROCHURE_OUTSIDE-1818f4da1d2.png) ### Step 3: Working with Municipalities and Re-Processors -The Authorized Kwik Bagit Dealers aim to: +The Mandate of the Authorized Kwik Bagit Dealers is to + +1. Reduce the amount of unnecessary recyclable plastic and metal material entering the municipal landfills. +2. Improve the quality and quantity of the material that is sent to re-processors in order to make them more profitable +3. Provide the Authorized Dealers with the ability to capitalize on the valuable recyclable material that is commonly tossed in the waste. -1. Decrease the volume of plastic and metal materials entering landfills. -2. Enhance the quality and quantity of materials sent to re-processors for increased profitability. -3. Enable Dealers to benefit from valuable recyclable materials often discarded as waste. ![IMG-2070-1818f5311be.jpg](./IMG-2070-1818f5311be.jpg) ## Resources -### Tools - -- Non-Disclosure Agreement signing platform ([DocuSign](https://www.docusign.com/)) -- Basic office equipment (computers, printers) -- Weighing scales for material quantification -- Safety gear (gloves, protective clothing) -- Material sorting equipment - -### Software - -- Video conferencing tools ([Zoom](https://zoom.us/)) -- Customer relationship management (CRM) software -- Recycling tracking/monitoring systems -- Business management platforms ([QuickBooks](https://quickbooks.intuit.com/)) -- Document storage solutions ([Google Drive](https://drive.google.com/)) - -### Hardware - -- Collection bins/containers for recyclables -- Transportation vehicles for material logistics -- Baling machines for compacting materials -- Label printers for inventory tracking -- Site security systems (cameras, access controls) - -*Note: Specific proprietary tools/software tied to Kwik BagIt operations require signed NDA for detailed disclosure [as referenced in materials].* -## References -## Articles - -- ~~[`waste360.com` - Kwik BagIt Partnership Announcement](https://www.waste360.com/waste-recycling/alternative-curbside-collection-startup-newbin-partners-with-kwik-bagit-on-washable-reusable-recycling-bag-system)~~ [1] -- [`bestwaytorecycle.weebly.com` - Kwik Bagit Closed-Loop System Overview](https://bestwaytorecycle.weebly.com) [3] -- [`bestwaytorecycle.com` - Net Zero Plastic Initiative](https://bestwaytorecycle.com) [4] -- [`kwikbagit.ca` - Authorized Dealers Program](https://kwikbagit.ca/kwik-bagit-recycling-bags-become-an-authorized-dealer-and-distributor/) [5] -- [`kwikbagit.ca` - Closed-Loop Rewards System](https://kwikbagit.ca/home/) [6] -- [`bestwaytorecycle.com` - KBI System Explanation](https://bestwaytorecycle.com/revolutionizing-plastic-waste-management-how-the-kbi-system-is-redefining-recycling/) [8] -- [`bestwaytorecycle.com` - Plastic Pollution Solution](https://bestwaytorecycle.com/what-goes-where-and-why/) [9] -- [`kwikbagit.ca` - Recycling Guide](https://kwikbagit.ca) [10] -- [`midriffinfosolution.org` - Kwik Bagit Technical Collaboration](https://midriffinfosolution.org/portfolio/kwik-bagit/) [7] - -## YouTube - -- [`Kwik Trip Rewards Program`](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_0POoCdWcJQ) (Unrelated to Kwik BagIt system; included for context on "Kwik" branding) [11] - -*(No Books, Papers, or Opensource Designs identified in provided sources.)* \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/become-an-authorized-dealer/config.json b/howtos/become-an-authorized-dealer/config.json index 4f28a0167..7bcac9637 100644 --- a/howtos/become-an-authorized-dealer/config.json +++ b/howtos/become-an-authorized-dealer/config.json @@ -39,7 +39,7 @@ "title": "Become an Authorized Dealer", "_modified": "2023-09-10T23:03:31.780Z", "total_downloads": 69, - "description": "The \"Kwik BagIt Closed-Loop Rewards System\" requires a signed Non-Disclosure Agreement for complete details. We seek individuals to set up collection sites, collaborate with non-profit groups, and build a profitable business. This opportunity is available globally. A video explains our mission and the need for local dealers worldwide.", + "description": "The Patent Pending \"Kwik BagIt Closed-Loop Rewards Recycling System\" is proprietary and requires a Non-Disclosure to be signed before all details can be shared.\n\nIn short, we are seeking individuals who are interested in establishing collection sites in your community, working with non-profit groups who will be able to receive payment for their services, and creating a profitable business with our \"System\". This is a ground-floor opportunity and is available anywhere in the world.\n\nThe following video will give our Mission Statement and why \n we are seeking dealers across the globe to develop the business in their local area.\n ", "_createdBy": "bestwaytorecycle", "category": { "_deleted": false, @@ -58,7 +58,7 @@ ], "steps": [ { - "text": "I'm sorry, I need a bit more context or clarification to provide the Markdown content you need. Could you please give me more details or specify what you'd like?", + "text": "These are 2 of the main reason why MRFs are failing and we have proprietary information that relates to the Patent Pending \"Systems\" which will be revealed upon signing a nondisclosure with Kwik BagIt. \n\nThe attached video link will give a basic understanding.\nContact us for more information ", "_animationKey": "unique1", "title": "Contamination and Co-mingling", "videoUrl": "https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jamJgdiKG2Q", @@ -79,7 +79,7 @@ "alt": "KBI BROCHURE OUTSIDE-1818f4da1d2.png" } ], - "text": "The \"Kwik BagIt System\" is designed to engage households, businesses, and non-profit organizations in a rewarding, revenue-generating activity. Contact us for more information.", + "text": "The Patent Pending \"Kwik BagIt Closed-Loop Rewards Recycling System\" is designed to reward the household and commercial businesses as well as the non-profit groups who will also participate in a lucrative revenue-based activity that will be essential to the profit and success of your dealership. Contact us for more details. ", "_animationKey": "unique2", "title": "Establishing a Non-Profit Group to work with " }, @@ -98,7 +98,7 @@ "alt": "IMG-2070-1818f5311be.jpg" } ], - "text": "The Authorized Kwik Bagit Dealers aim to:\n\n1. Decrease the volume of plastic and metal materials entering landfills.\n2. Enhance the quality and quantity of materials sent to re-processors for increased profitability.\n3. Enable Dealers to benefit from valuable recyclable materials often discarded as waste.", + "text": "The Mandate of the Authorized Kwik Bagit Dealers is to \n\n1. Reduce the amount of unnecessary recyclable plastic and metal material entering the municipal landfills.\n2. Improve the quality and quantity of the material that is sent to re-processors in order to make them more profitable\n3. Provide the Authorized Dealers with the ability to capitalize on the valuable recyclable material that is commonly tossed in the waste. \n", "title": "Working with Municipalities and Re-Processors", "_animationKey": "unique3" } @@ -257,9 +257,5 @@ "images": [] } }, - "content": "The \"Kwik BagIt Closed-Loop Rewards System\" requires a signed Non-Disclosure Agreement for complete details. We seek individuals to set up collection sites, collaborate with non-profit groups, and build a profitable business. This opportunity is available globally. A video explains our mission and the need for local dealers worldwide.\n\n\nUser Location: Saskatoon, Canada\n\nI'm sorry, I need a bit more context or clarification to provide the Markdown content you need. Could you please give me more details or specify what you'd like?\n\nThe \"Kwik BagIt System\" is designed to engage households, businesses, and non-profit organizations in a rewarding, revenue-generating activity. Contact us for more information.\n\nThe Authorized Kwik Bagit Dealers aim to:\n\n1. Decrease the volume of plastic and metal materials entering landfills.\n2. Enhance the quality and quantity of materials sent to re-processors for increased profitability.\n3. Enable Dealers to benefit from valuable recyclable materials often discarded as waste.", - "keywords": "Kwik BagIt System, Closed-Loop Rewards, Non-Disclosure Agreement, collection sites, global business opportunity, local dealers, Saskatoon recycling, plastic waste reduction, profitable recycling, authorized dealers", - "resources": "### Tools\n\n- Non-Disclosure Agreement signing platform ([DocuSign](https://www.docusign.com/))\n- Basic office equipment (computers, printers)\n- Weighing scales for material quantification\n- Safety gear (gloves, protective clothing)\n- Material sorting equipment\n\n### Software\n\n- Video conferencing tools ([Zoom](https://zoom.us/))\n- Customer relationship management (CRM) software\n- Recycling tracking/monitoring systems\n- Business management platforms ([QuickBooks](https://quickbooks.intuit.com/))\n- Document storage solutions ([Google Drive](https://drive.google.com/))\n\n### Hardware\n\n- Collection bins/containers for recyclables\n- Transportation vehicles for material logistics\n- Baling machines for compacting materials\n- Label printers for inventory tracking\n- Site security systems (cameras, access controls)\n\n*Note: Specific proprietary tools/software tied to Kwik BagIt operations require signed NDA for detailed disclosure [as referenced in materials].*", - "references": "## Articles\n\n- ~~[`waste360.com` - Kwik BagIt Partnership Announcement](https://www.waste360.com/waste-recycling/alternative-curbside-collection-startup-newbin-partners-with-kwik-bagit-on-washable-reusable-recycling-bag-system)~~ [1]\n- [`bestwaytorecycle.weebly.com` - Kwik Bagit Closed-Loop System Overview](https://bestwaytorecycle.weebly.com) [3]\n- [`bestwaytorecycle.com` - Net Zero Plastic Initiative](https://bestwaytorecycle.com) [4]\n- [`kwikbagit.ca` - Authorized Dealers Program](https://kwikbagit.ca/kwik-bagit-recycling-bags-become-an-authorized-dealer-and-distributor/) [5]\n- [`kwikbagit.ca` - Closed-Loop Rewards System](https://kwikbagit.ca/home/) [6]\n- [`bestwaytorecycle.com` - KBI System Explanation](https://bestwaytorecycle.com/revolutionizing-plastic-waste-management-how-the-kbi-system-is-redefining-recycling/) [8]\n- [`bestwaytorecycle.com` - Plastic Pollution Solution](https://bestwaytorecycle.com/what-goes-where-and-why/) [9]\n- [`kwikbagit.ca` - Recycling Guide](https://kwikbagit.ca) [10]\n- [`midriffinfosolution.org` - Kwik Bagit Technical Collaboration](https://midriffinfosolution.org/portfolio/kwik-bagit/) [7]\n\n## YouTube\n\n- [`Kwik Trip Rewards Program`](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_0POoCdWcJQ) (Unrelated to Kwik BagIt system; included for context on \"Kwik\" branding) [11]\n\n*(No Books, Papers, or Opensource Designs identified in provided sources.)*", - "brief": "Join the Kwik BagIt Closed-Loop Rewards System globally. Set up collection sites, partner with non-profits, and profit while reducing landfill waste." + "content": "The Patent Pending \"Kwik BagIt Closed-Loop Rewards Recycling System\" is proprietary and requires a Non-Disclosure to be signed before all details can be shared.\n\nIn short, we are seeking individuals who are interested in establishing collection sites in your community, working with non-profit groups who will be able to receive payment for their services, and creating a profitable business with our \"System\". This is a ground-floor opportunity and is available anywhere in the world.\n\nThe following video will give our Mission Statement and why \n we are seeking dealers across the globe to develop the business in their local area.\n \n\n\nUser Location: Saskatoon, Canada\n\nThese are 2 of the main reason why MRFs are failing and we have proprietary information that relates to the Patent Pending \"Systems\" which will be revealed upon signing a nondisclosure with Kwik BagIt. \n\nThe attached video link will give a basic understanding.\nContact us for more information \n\nThe Patent Pending \"Kwik BagIt Closed-Loop Rewards Recycling System\" is designed to reward the household and commercial businesses as well as the non-profit groups who will also participate in a lucrative revenue-based activity that will be essential to the profit and success of your dealership. Contact us for more details. \n\nThe Mandate of the Authorized Kwik Bagit Dealers is to \n\n1. Reduce the amount of unnecessary recyclable plastic and metal material entering the municipal landfills.\n2. Improve the quality and quantity of the material that is sent to re-processors in order to make them more profitable\n3. Provide the Authorized Dealers with the ability to capitalize on the valuable recyclable material that is commonly tossed in the waste. \n" } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/bend-with-the-sheetpress/README.md b/howtos/bend-with-the-sheetpress/README.md index 44f9f7100..e089830cf 100644 --- a/howtos/bend-with-the-sheetpress/README.md +++ b/howtos/bend-with-the-sheetpress/README.md @@ -1,33 +1,37 @@ --- title: Bend with the Sheetpress slug: bend-with-the-sheetpress -description: The sheet press is utilized for bending plastic sheets, solid surfaces, or extruded beams. The process is straightforward but may need preparation for optimal results. Follow these steps for effective use: +description: We have used the sheetpress as a tool for bending plastic sheets, solid surface materials or even extruded beams. The process is quite simple but might require some preparation to get the best results. Below are the steps taken to do this, although there is still room for further improvements! + +Tools needed: +- Sheet press +- Some kind of mould +- Clamps -**Tools Required:** -- Sheet press -- Mould -- Clamps tags: ["melting","sheetpress"] category: Guides difficulty: Medium time: < 5 hours -keywords: sheet press, plastic bending, plastic sheets, bending tools, moulding process, clamp placement, temperature settings, extruded beams, plastic shaping, press techniques +keywords: location: Amsterdam, Netherlands (Kingdom of the) --- # Bend with the Sheetpress ![Bend with the Sheetpress](fictionfactory.jpg) -The sheet press is utilized for bending plastic sheets, solid surfaces, or extruded beams. The process is straightforward but may need preparation for optimal results. Follow these steps for effective use: +We have used the sheetpress as a tool for bending plastic sheets, solid surface materials or even extruded beams. The process is quite simple but might require some preparation to get the best results. Below are the steps taken to do this, although there is still room for further improvements! + +Tools needed: +- Sheet press +- Some kind of mould +- Clamps -**Tools Required:** -- Sheet press -- Mould -- Clamps User Location: Amsterdam, Netherlands (Kingdom of the) ## Steps ### Step 1: Make a mould -To achieve consistent results, use a mold for bending. For larger projects, sharp corners, or intricate shapes, consider a counter mold to ensure proper shaping. Plan clamp placement to ensure sufficient space for secure attachment. +To have a consistent result it's best to use a mould for the bending. For bigger projects, sharp corners or intricate shapes a counter mould is recommended! This ensures the sheets is pushed in the right shape. + +It’s also important to keep in mind where the clamps will be placed so make sure there is space for the clamps to grab on to. ![IMG_6196 2.jpg](./IMG_6196_2.jpg) @@ -37,11 +41,13 @@ To achieve consistent results, use a mold for bending. For larger projects, shar ### Step 2: Temperature and timing -The next step is to determine temperature and timing. +The next step is to decide on temperature and timing. + +The right temperature depends on the plastic type and thickness. You can check in between to see if it bends far enough or experiment with smaller pieces before starting with bigger sheets. + +Below are some of the settings we have worked with. -Temperature varies based on plastic type and thickness. Check if the plastic bends sufficiently or experiment with smaller pieces before using larger sheets. -Below are some settings we have utilized. ![Schermafbeelding 2020-10-29 om 14.55.03.png](./Schermafbeelding_2020-10-29_om_14.55.03.png) @@ -51,9 +57,9 @@ Below are some settings we have utilized. ### Step 3: Place in the Sheetpress -Place the plastic on a 1/8 inch (3 mm) MDF sheet to prevent sticking to the press. Position the sheet and adjust the bottom bed upwards, leaving a 3/8 inch (1 cm) gap. +We placed the plastic on top of a 3mm sheet of mdf to make sure it doesn’t stick to the press. Once the sheet is in place move the bottom bed to the top so it’s almost closed (see picture). A distance of 1 cm should be ok. -You can also bend sheets larger than the press, provided the bent section fits within it (e.g., a 6.6 x 3.3 ft (2 x 1 m) sheet). +It is also possible to bend sheets larger than the sheetpress, as long as the bended part fits the press (second image is a 2x1 sheet). ![IMG_6405.jpg](./IMG_6405.jpg) @@ -63,7 +69,7 @@ You can also bend sheets larger than the press, provided the bent section fits w ### Step 4: Bend the sheets! -Once the sheets are adequately heated, promptly transfer them to the mold, as they cool rapidly. Ensure all clamps are accessible. It is advisable to have a second person assist with this task. +After heating up the sheets sufficiently it is time to move it to the mould. This requires some fast handling, since it quickly cools down again. Be sure to have all the clamps within reach! It also helps to do this with two persons. ![20200720_113045.jpg](./20200720_113045.jpg) @@ -75,57 +81,4 @@ Once the sheets are adequately heated, promptly transfer them to the mold, as th ![IMG_6204.jpg](./IMG_6204.jpg) ## Resources -### Tools - -- Sheet press -- Mould -- Clamps - -### Hardware - -- 1/8 inch (3 mm) MDF sheet -- Adjustable bottom bed (for gap adjustment) - -### Materials (additional category inferred from context) - -- Plastic sheets/solid surfaces/extruded beams (specified thickness) -- Heat-resistant safety equipment (implied for handling heated sheets) - -Key process elements: - -- Temperature control (material-dependent) -- Counter molds (recommended for complex shapes) -- Two-person handling (for rapid transfer) - -Local resources in Amsterdam: - -- MDF sheets: Available at Praxis or Gamma stores -- Fabrication services: For custom molds (3D printing/machining workshops) -## References -## Articles - -- Bend with the Sheetpress - [filtered] Academy -- [Sheet Metal Bending Guide - Gestión De Compras](https://www.gestiondecompras.com/en/products/sheet-metal/sheet-metal-bending/) -- [ABS Plastic Bending Guide - BeePlastic](https://www.beeplastic.com/blogs/plastic-insights/a-beginner-s-guide-to-bending-abs-plastic-sheets-and-rods) -- [Line Bending Process Guide - Notes & Sketches](https://www.notesandsketches.co.uk/PDF/Line_Bending_Process.pdf) -- [filtered] Sheetpress Overview - One Army -- [filtered] Bending Guide - [filtered] Academy -- [Sheet Press Process - Junklabz](https://www.junklabz.com/sheet-press) -- [[filtered] Sheetpress Guide - Huaaoplastics](https://www.huaaoplastics.com/resources/the-ultimate-guide-to-the-precious-plastic-sheetpress.html) -- Sheetpress Workspace Setup - [filtered] Academy - -## Books - -- [Designing the Internet of Things - MADSG](https://madsg.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/Designing_the_Internet_of_Things.pdf) - -## Papers - -- ~~[Plastic Bending: Theory and Applications - World Scientific](https://www.worldscientific.com/doi/10.1142/9789812797070_0001)~~ - -## YouTube - -- [Recycled Plastic Sheet Tutorial - [filtered]](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IPEsbg7AmVE) - -## Opensource Designs - -- [filtered] Sheetpress Blueprints \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/bend-with-the-sheetpress/config.json b/howtos/bend-with-the-sheetpress/config.json index b5fb537c5..5ecc906e9 100644 --- a/howtos/bend-with-the-sheetpress/config.json +++ b/howtos/bend-with-the-sheetpress/config.json @@ -29,10 +29,10 @@ "alt": "buig.jpg" } ], - "text": "To achieve consistent results, use a mold for bending. For larger projects, sharp corners, or intricate shapes, consider a counter mold to ensure proper shaping. Plan clamp placement to ensure sufficient space for secure attachment." + "text": "To have a consistent result it's best to use a mould for the bending. For bigger projects, sharp corners or intricate shapes a counter mould is recommended! This ensures the sheets is pushed in the right shape.\n\nIt’s also important to keep in mind where the clamps will be placed so make sure there is space for the clamps to grab on to." }, { - "text": "The next step is to determine temperature and timing.\n\nTemperature varies based on plastic type and thickness. Check if the plastic bends sufficiently or experiment with smaller pieces before using larger sheets.\n\nBelow are some settings we have utilized.", + "text": "The next step is to decide on temperature and timing. \n\nThe right temperature depends on the plastic type and thickness. You can check in between to see if it bends far enough or experiment with smaller pieces before starting with bigger sheets.\n\nBelow are some of the settings we have worked with.\n\n", "title": "Temperature and timing", "images": [ { @@ -63,7 +63,7 @@ "_animationKey": "unique2" }, { - "text": "Place the plastic on a 1/8 inch (3 mm) MDF sheet to prevent sticking to the press. Position the sheet and adjust the bottom bed upwards, leaving a 3/8 inch (1 cm) gap. \n\nYou can also bend sheets larger than the press, provided the bent section fits within it (e.g., a 6.6 x 3.3 ft (2 x 1 m) sheet).", + "text": "We placed the plastic on top of a 3mm sheet of mdf to make sure it doesn’t stick to the press. Once the sheet is in place move the bottom bed to the top so it’s almost closed (see picture). A distance of 1 cm should be ok.\n\nIt is also possible to bend sheets larger than the sheetpress, as long as the bended part fits the press (second image is a 2x1 sheet).", "_animationKey": "unique3", "title": "Place in the Sheetpress", "images": [ @@ -96,7 +96,7 @@ { "title": "Bend the sheets!", "_animationKey": "uniquechktx", - "text": "Once the sheets are adequately heated, promptly transfer them to the mold, as they cool rapidly. Ensure all clamps are accessible. It is advisable to have a second person assist with this task.", + "text": "After heating up the sheets sufficiently it is time to move it to the mould. This requires some fast handling, since it quickly cools down again. Be sure to have all the clamps within reach! It also helps to do this with two persons. ", "images": [ { "downloadUrl": "https://firebasestorage.googleapis.com/v0/b/onearmyworld.appspot.com/o/uploads%2Fhowtos%2FBwTSaRaM99e4OiVTxucu%2F20200720_113045.jpg?alt=media&token=6cbff5f6-625c-4209-a3e4-481d11fbff9a", @@ -155,7 +155,7 @@ "files": [], "id": "BwTSaRaM99e4OiVTxucu", "_createdBy": "fiction-factory", - "description": "The sheet press is utilized for bending plastic sheets, solid surfaces, or extruded beams. The process is straightforward but may need preparation for optimal results. Follow these steps for effective use:\n\n**Tools Required:**\n- Sheet press\n- Mould\n- Clamps", + "description": "We have used the sheetpress as a tool for bending plastic sheets, solid surface materials or even extruded beams. The process is quite simple but might require some preparation to get the best results. Below are the steps taken to do this, although there is still room for further improvements! \n\nTools needed:\n-\tSheet press\n-\tSome kind of mould\n-\tClamps\n", "_id": "BwTSaRaM99e4OiVTxucu", "comments": [ { @@ -420,9 +420,5 @@ "images": [] } }, - "content": "The sheet press is utilized for bending plastic sheets, solid surfaces, or extruded beams. The process is straightforward but may need preparation for optimal results. Follow these steps for effective use:\n\n**Tools Required:**\n- Sheet press\n- Mould\n- Clamps\n\n\nUser Location: Amsterdam, Netherlands (Kingdom of the)\n\nTo achieve consistent results, use a mold for bending. For larger projects, sharp corners, or intricate shapes, consider a counter mold to ensure proper shaping. Plan clamp placement to ensure sufficient space for secure attachment.\n\nThe next step is to determine temperature and timing.\n\nTemperature varies based on plastic type and thickness. Check if the plastic bends sufficiently or experiment with smaller pieces before using larger sheets.\n\nBelow are some settings we have utilized.\n\nPlace the plastic on a 1/8 inch (3 mm) MDF sheet to prevent sticking to the press. Position the sheet and adjust the bottom bed upwards, leaving a 3/8 inch (1 cm) gap. \n\nYou can also bend sheets larger than the press, provided the bent section fits within it (e.g., a 6.6 x 3.3 ft (2 x 1 m) sheet).\n\nOnce the sheets are adequately heated, promptly transfer them to the mold, as they cool rapidly. Ensure all clamps are accessible. It is advisable to have a second person assist with this task.", - "keywords": "sheet press, plastic bending, plastic sheets, bending tools, moulding process, clamp placement, temperature settings, extruded beams, plastic shaping, press techniques", - "resources": "### Tools\n\n- Sheet press\n- Mould\n- Clamps\n\n### Hardware\n\n- 1/8 inch (3 mm) MDF sheet\n- Adjustable bottom bed (for gap adjustment)\n\n### Materials (additional category inferred from context)\n\n- Plastic sheets/solid surfaces/extruded beams (specified thickness)\n- Heat-resistant safety equipment (implied for handling heated sheets)\n\nKey process elements:\n\n- Temperature control (material-dependent)\n- Counter molds (recommended for complex shapes)\n- Two-person handling (for rapid transfer)\n\nLocal resources in Amsterdam:\n\n- MDF sheets: Available at Praxis or Gamma stores\n- Fabrication services: For custom molds (3D printing/machining workshops)", - "references": "## Articles\n\n- Bend with the Sheetpress - [filtered] Academy\n- [Sheet Metal Bending Guide - Gestión De Compras](https://www.gestiondecompras.com/en/products/sheet-metal/sheet-metal-bending/)\n- [ABS Plastic Bending Guide - BeePlastic](https://www.beeplastic.com/blogs/plastic-insights/a-beginner-s-guide-to-bending-abs-plastic-sheets-and-rods)\n- [Line Bending Process Guide - Notes & Sketches](https://www.notesandsketches.co.uk/PDF/Line_Bending_Process.pdf)\n- [filtered] Sheetpress Overview - One Army\n- [filtered] Bending Guide - [filtered] Academy\n- [Sheet Press Process - Junklabz](https://www.junklabz.com/sheet-press)\n- [[filtered] Sheetpress Guide - Huaaoplastics](https://www.huaaoplastics.com/resources/the-ultimate-guide-to-the-precious-plastic-sheetpress.html)\n- Sheetpress Workspace Setup - [filtered] Academy\n\n## Books\n\n- [Designing the Internet of Things - MADSG](https://madsg.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/Designing_the_Internet_of_Things.pdf)\n\n## Papers\n\n- ~~[Plastic Bending: Theory and Applications - World Scientific](https://www.worldscientific.com/doi/10.1142/9789812797070_0001)~~\n\n## YouTube\n\n- [Recycled Plastic Sheet Tutorial - [filtered]](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IPEsbg7AmVE)\n\n## Opensource Designs\n\n- [filtered] Sheetpress Blueprints", - "brief": "Bend plastic sheets easily with a sheet press. Utilize molds and clamps for precise shaping. Ensure correct temperature and timing for optimal results." + "content": "We have used the sheetpress as a tool for bending plastic sheets, solid surface materials or even extruded beams. The process is quite simple but might require some preparation to get the best results. Below are the steps taken to do this, although there is still room for further improvements! \n\nTools needed:\n-\tSheet press\n-\tSome kind of mould\n-\tClamps\n\n\n\nUser Location: Amsterdam, Netherlands (Kingdom of the)\n\nTo have a consistent result it's best to use a mould for the bending. For bigger projects, sharp corners or intricate shapes a counter mould is recommended! This ensures the sheets is pushed in the right shape.\n\nIt’s also important to keep in mind where the clamps will be placed so make sure there is space for the clamps to grab on to.\n\nThe next step is to decide on temperature and timing. \n\nThe right temperature depends on the plastic type and thickness. You can check in between to see if it bends far enough or experiment with smaller pieces before starting with bigger sheets.\n\nBelow are some of the settings we have worked with.\n\n\n\nWe placed the plastic on top of a 3mm sheet of mdf to make sure it doesn’t stick to the press. Once the sheet is in place move the bottom bed to the top so it’s almost closed (see picture). A distance of 1 cm should be ok.\n\nIt is also possible to bend sheets larger than the sheetpress, as long as the bended part fits the press (second image is a 2x1 sheet).\n\nAfter heating up the sheets sufficiently it is time to move it to the mould. This requires some fast handling, since it quickly cools down again. Be sure to have all the clamps within reach! It also helps to do this with two persons. " } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/bicycle-shredder-v2/README.md b/howtos/bicycle-shredder-v2/README.md index 2b9e74764..8bc3611ef 100644 --- a/howtos/bicycle-shredder-v2/README.md +++ b/howtos/bicycle-shredder-v2/README.md @@ -1,36 +1,37 @@ --- title: Bicycle Shredder V2 slug: bicycle-shredder-v2 -description: This tutorial provides an overview of constructing a bicycle shredder. Eighteen months ago, we released a video on building the original bicycle shredder. We have since improved the design and documentation and now present the enhanced second version. +description: In this how-to we’re giving you an overview about the construction of our bicycle shredder. One and a half years ago we made the first video about how to build a bicycle shredder. Since then, we made further adjustments and are now proud to present you the second version of the machine (with a much better documentation). tags: ["hack","shredder"] category: Machines difficulty: Very Hard time: 3-4 weeks -keywords: bicycle shredder, construction tutorial, shredder design, assembly information, high-speed shredding, axle manufacturing, plastic shredding, steel frame construction, workshop safety, human-powered machinery +keywords: location: Dresden, Germany --- # Bicycle Shredder V2 ![Bicycle Shredder V2](ND800_0005336_Loehrer.jpg) -This tutorial provides an overview of constructing a bicycle shredder. Eighteen months ago, we released a video on building the original bicycle shredder. We have since improved the design and documentation and now present the enhanced second version. +In this how-to we’re giving you an overview about the construction of our bicycle shredder. One and a half years ago we made the first video about how to build a bicycle shredder. Since then, we made further adjustments and are now proud to present you the second version of the machine (with a much better documentation). User Location: Dresden, Germany ## Steps ### Step 1: Get ready! -### Assembly Information for Makers +In the download package you find a lot of files and drawings. At first sight it might be overwhelming, but don’t be afraid, we’re taking care of you ;-). +In addition to the download-kit, the following steps will give you further information, why the shredder is built the way it is. Furthermore a short introduction video and an assembling video is in the making to get a better understanding about the construction. Stay tuned! -The download package contains numerous files and drawings. While it may seem overwhelming initially, the following steps provide further insights into the shredder's design. A brief introduction video and an assembly video are forthcoming to enhance understanding of the construction. - -[Download Link](https://www.dropbox.com/sh/xlts122wcb905q6/AABRgMZTki8gH1NqQ5SvOS-Ia?dl=0) +Download-Link: dropbox.com: dropbox.com/sh/xlts122wcb905q6/AABRgMZTki8gH1NqQ5SvOS-Ia?dl=0 ![ND800_0005383_freigestellt_Loehrer.jpg](./ND800_0005383_freigestellt_Loehrer.jpg) ### Step 2: Cutting Mill -Most low-speed shredders observed online or within the community tend to be large, heavy, or inefficient. Opting for high-speed shredding utilizes inertia effectively. We chose to shred materials using human-powered high-speed methods. +Nearly all low speed shredders we saw in the community or around the internet were huge, heavy or sometimes not even working proper and efficient. Using high speed instead, we have the power of inertia :-). So we decided to shred plastic with human power at high speed. +There are different ways to build the axle. We decided to spend a bit more money on standard parts to reduce costs as machining and post machining on the lathe. That’s why we use those span sockets. However, we are aware that these components are not available in every country in the world. Take a look on the possibilities and competencies around you, it is also possible to manufacture the axle in a different way. + + -Various designs exist for constructing the axle. We opted to invest in standard parts to minimize further machining costs. We use span sockets for this reason. However, we recognize these components may not be available in all regions. Explore local resources and capabilities to discover alternative methods for axle manufacturing. ![cutting mill.jpg](./cutting_mill.jpg) @@ -40,9 +41,7 @@ Various designs exist for constructing the axle. We opted to invest in standard ### Step 3: Material Lock -### Shredding Plastic with the Bicycle Shredder - -For effective shredding with the bicycle shredder, the cutting mill's knives must rotate at high speed. To safely introduce plastic into the cutting mill without opening it, we initially experimented with various pipe lock designs. However, these proved unreliable, leading us to create a more traditional hopper instead. Although the new hopper is larger and heavier than previous versions, it provides increased stability and safety during operation. +Shredding plastic with the bicycle shredder - the knives of the cutting mill should run at high speed. To ensure a safe and stable shredding process, we needed a way to get the plastic into the cutting mill without opening it. In the past we worked with several versions of a pipe lock. Finally, we dismissed the pipe lock because of malfunctions. That's why we developed a more classic and simple version of a save hopper. The downside of the new version is the huge size and weight compared to the old one. ![height adjustment.jpg](./height_adjustment.jpg) @@ -52,27 +51,26 @@ For effective shredding with the bicycle shredder, the cutting mill's knives mus ### Step 4: Sieve and Collection Box -The sieve and collection box are constructed from bent and welded metal sheets. Use a sieve with holes approximately 5-8 mm (3/16-5/16 inches) in diameter. Smaller holes may reduce the plastic to dust. Ensure the metal sheet is of sufficient thickness for stability and the locking system; 1.5 mm (1/16 inch) is recommended. +The sieve and collection box is nothing really special, just bended and welded metal sheets. We recommend using a sieve with holes about 5 - 8 mm in diameter. Very small holes will turn the plastic nearly into dust. Don't go too thin with the thickness of the metal sheet. It is important for stability and the locking system! 1,5 mm are a good size. ![collection box sieve.png](./collection_box_sieve.png) ### Step 5: Friction Wheel -The friction wheel transfers speed from the rear wheel to the cutting mill. We make the wheel from plywood because it can be milled using our CNC machine. However, better materials, such as certain plastics, are available for the friction wheel. +The friction wheel transfers the speed from the rear wheel to the cutting mill. We use plywood for the wheel because we can mill it with our own cnc machine. Nethertheless there are definitely better materials for the friction wheel, for example something out of plastic. ![friction wheel.jpg](./friction_wheel.jpg) ### Step 6: Steel Frame -### Steel Frame Construction Guide +Building the steel frame requires proper knowledge and experience in welding and working with metal. If you’re new in the game, look for someone with experience in metalwork.To simplify the welding process we prepared gauges -> plywood sheets to keep the right distances between the steel tubes and some big 45° angles. -Constructing the steel frame necessitates expertise in welding and metalwork. Beginners should consult an experienced metalworker. Use plywood sheet gauges to maintain correct distances between steel tubes and employ large 45° angles to streamline the welding process. +Before welding everything make sure everything is drilled and milled into the steel tubes. Afterwards it's a bit tricky to get them to the right places! -Ensure all holes and slots are drilled and milled into the steel tubes prior to welding, as alignment becomes challenging afterwards. +Another advice: welding the m16 nuts; make sure the two nuts are in one alignment. That's important to clamp the rear-wheel right in place. We take a long steel bar (14mm in diameter). -For welding M16 nuts, align both nuts to properly secure the rear wheel. Use a 14mm (0.55 inches) diameter steel bar for this purpose. ![ND800_0005340_Loehrer.jpg](./ND800_0005340_Loehrer.jpg) @@ -82,14 +80,18 @@ For welding M16 nuts, align both nuts to properly secure the rear wheel. Use a 1 ### Step 7: Height Adjustment -Adjusting the height is a simple task. A small steel strip is welded to a clamping ring for the turning knob, and the rest consists of standard components. +The height adjustment is one of the fastest things you can realise :-). +For the turning knob we welded a small steel strip on a clamping ring. The rest of it are just ready-to-use standard parts. + ![height adjustment.jpg](./height_adjustment.jpg) ### Step 8: Wheel Mount -The wheel-mount involves considerable lathe work but is straightforward. For the turning knob, we cut a piece from a thick metal sheet and welded it to a nut. Alternatively, you can create the knob using steel strips and an angle grinder. +The wheel-mount is a lot of lathe work but not too complex! +For the turning knob we lasered a part out of a thick metal sheet and welded it on a nut. Instead of a lasered part you can realise the turning knob as well by some steel strips and an angle grinder. + ![wheel mount.jpg](./wheel_mount.jpg) @@ -102,72 +104,21 @@ The wheel-mount involves considerable lathe work but is straightforward. For the ### Step 9: Safety Add-ons -### Workshop Safety Guidelines -Workshops involve diverse participants, and safety is a top priority. We implement a color-coded system for handling equipment: +Workshops with different kinds of people are our daily business. That is why we care a lot about safety! +To ensure an easy and understandable handling, a good way is to use our color system. +- Green: Everybody can touch/use it. +- Orange: The team can touch/use it. +- Red: Keep your body away from it, it's f***ing dangerous! +In addition to the color system we use common warning signs and tips and tricks written on the machine. -- **Green:** Accessible to everyone. -- **Orange:** Restricted to team members. -- **Red:** Extremely hazardous; avoid contact. +Furthermore we build safety add-ons, such as the belt protection and the shaft protection. -In addition to our color system, we use standard warning signs and machine-specific instructions. We also install safety features like belt and shaft protections. +If you have ideas how to make the machine safer and better, feel free to share it with us and the community! -Your suggestions for improving machine safety are welcome. ![shaft protection + belt protection.jpg](./shaft_protection_belt_protection.jpg) ## Resources -To build the enhanced bicycle shredder, key components and resources are organized into three main categories, each containing critical elements extracted from the tutorial documentation[1]. - -### Tools & Workshop Equipment - -- Welding equipment (MIG/TIG recommended) -- Lathe (for wheel-mount fabrication) -- Angle grinder (for steel cutting/shaping) -- CNC machine (plywood friction wheel milling) -- Drilling/milling tools (pre-welding preparation) - -### Hardware Components - -- Steel tubes (14mm diameter bar for frame) -- Span sockets (axle components) -- M16 nuts (rear wheel mounting) -- 1.5mm metal sheets (sieve/collection box) -- Plywood sheets (friction wheel & alignment jigs) - -### Software & Documentation - -- [Design package](https://www.dropbox.com/sh/xlts122wcb905q6/AABRgMZTki8gH1NqQ5SvOS-Ia?dl=0) (CAD files & technical drawings) -- Assembly video tutorials (forthcoming) -- Sieve specifications (5-8mm holes) -- Metalworking guidelines (bending/welding) -- Safety system documentation (color codes/operational protocols)[1] - -Consult the design package and adjust components based on regional availability of materials like span sockets[1]. Prioritize safety protocols during assembly and operation. -## References -## References - -### Articles - -- *No links provided* - -### Books - -- *No links provided* - -### Papers - -- *No links provided* - -### YouTube - -- *No links provided* - -### Opensource Designs - -- [Bicycle Shredder Design Files](https://www.dropbox.com/sh/xlts122wcb905q6/AABRgMZTki8gH1NqQ5SvOS-Ia?dl=0) - -### Other - -- *No links provided* \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/bicycle-shredder-v2/config.json b/howtos/bicycle-shredder-v2/config.json index 025d37ab7..49605926c 100644 --- a/howtos/bicycle-shredder-v2/config.json +++ b/howtos/bicycle-shredder-v2/config.json @@ -9,7 +9,7 @@ "_createdBy": "kunststoffschmiede", "steps": [ { - "text": "### Assembly Information for Makers\n\nThe download package contains numerous files and drawings. While it may seem overwhelming initially, the following steps provide further insights into the shredder's design. A brief introduction video and an assembly video are forthcoming to enhance understanding of the construction. \n\n[Download Link](https://www.dropbox.com/sh/xlts122wcb905q6/AABRgMZTki8gH1NqQ5SvOS-Ia?dl=0)", + "text": "In the download package you find a lot of files and drawings. At first sight it might be overwhelming, but don’t be afraid, we’re taking care of you ;-).\nIn addition to the download-kit, the following steps will give you further information, why the shredder is built the way it is. Furthermore a short introduction video and an assembling video is in the making to get a better understanding about the construction. Stay tuned!\n\nDownload-Link: dropbox.com: dropbox.com/sh/xlts122wcb905q6/AABRgMZTki8gH1NqQ5SvOS-Ia?dl=0", "images": [ { "contentType": "image/jpeg", @@ -57,11 +57,11 @@ "alt": "ND800_0005357_Loehrer.jpg" } ], - "text": "Most low-speed shredders observed online or within the community tend to be large, heavy, or inefficient. Opting for high-speed shredding utilizes inertia effectively. We chose to shred materials using human-powered high-speed methods.\n\nVarious designs exist for constructing the axle. We opted to invest in standard parts to minimize further machining costs. We use span sockets for this reason. However, we recognize these components may not be available in all regions. Explore local resources and capabilities to discover alternative methods for axle manufacturing." + "text": "Nearly all low speed shredders we saw in the community or around the internet were huge, heavy or sometimes not even working proper and efficient. Using high speed instead, we have the power of inertia :-). So we decided to shred plastic with human power at high speed.\nThere are different ways to build the axle. We decided to spend a bit more money on standard parts to reduce costs as machining and post machining on the lathe. That’s why we use those span sockets. However, we are aware that these components are not available in every country in the world. Take a look on the possibilities and competencies around you, it is also possible to manufacture the axle in a different way.\n\n \n" }, { "caption": "", - "text": "### Shredding Plastic with the Bicycle Shredder\n\nFor effective shredding with the bicycle shredder, the cutting mill's knives must rotate at high speed. To safely introduce plastic into the cutting mill without opening it, we initially experimented with various pipe lock designs. However, these proved unreliable, leading us to create a more traditional hopper instead. Although the new hopper is larger and heavier than previous versions, it provides increased stability and safety during operation.", + "text": "Shredding plastic with the bicycle shredder - the knives of the cutting mill should run at high speed. To ensure a safe and stable shredding process, we needed a way to get the plastic into the cutting mill without opening it. In the past we worked with several versions of a pipe lock. Finally, we dismissed the pipe lock because of malfunctions. That's why we developed a more classic and simple version of a save hopper. The downside of the new version is the huge size and weight compared to the old one.", "_animationKey": "unique2", "images": [ { @@ -106,7 +106,7 @@ "alt": "collection box sieve.png" } ], - "text": "The sieve and collection box are constructed from bent and welded metal sheets. Use a sieve with holes approximately 5-8 mm (3/16-5/16 inches) in diameter. Smaller holes may reduce the plastic to dust. Ensure the metal sheet is of sufficient thickness for stability and the locking system; 1.5 mm (1/16 inch) is recommended.", + "text": "The sieve and collection box is nothing really special, just bended and welded metal sheets. We recommend using a sieve with holes about 5 - 8 mm in diameter. Very small holes will turn the plastic nearly into dust. Don't go too thin with the thickness of the metal sheet. It is important for stability and the locking system! 1,5 mm are a good size.", "caption": "", "title": "Sieve and Collection Box", "_animationKey": "unique3" @@ -128,10 +128,10 @@ ], "_animationKey": "uniqueq0cp1n", "title": "Friction Wheel", - "text": "The friction wheel transfers speed from the rear wheel to the cutting mill. We make the wheel from plywood because it can be milled using our CNC machine. However, better materials, such as certain plastics, are available for the friction wheel." + "text": "The friction wheel transfers the speed from the rear wheel to the cutting mill. We use plywood for the wheel because we can mill it with our own cnc machine. Nethertheless there are definitely better materials for the friction wheel, for example something out of plastic." }, { - "text": "### Steel Frame Construction Guide\n\nConstructing the steel frame necessitates expertise in welding and metalwork. Beginners should consult an experienced metalworker. Use plywood sheet gauges to maintain correct distances between steel tubes and employ large 45° angles to streamline the welding process.\n\nEnsure all holes and slots are drilled and milled into the steel tubes prior to welding, as alignment becomes challenging afterwards.\n\nFor welding M16 nuts, align both nuts to properly secure the rear wheel. Use a 14mm (0.55 inches) diameter steel bar for this purpose.", + "text": "Building the steel frame requires proper knowledge and experience in welding and working with metal. If you’re new in the game, look for someone with experience in metalwork.To simplify the welding process we prepared gauges -> plywood sheets to keep the right distances between the steel tubes and some big 45° angles.\n\nBefore welding everything make sure everything is drilled and milled into the steel tubes. Afterwards it's a bit tricky to get them to the right places!\n\nAnother advice: welding the m16 nuts; make sure the two nuts are in one alignment. That's important to clamp the rear-wheel right in place. We take a long steel bar (14mm in diameter).\n", "images": [ { "updated": "2021-02-01T21:52:28.903Z", @@ -162,7 +162,7 @@ "title": "Steel Frame" }, { - "text": "Adjusting the height is a simple task. A small steel strip is welded to a clamping ring for the turning knob, and the rest consists of standard components.", + "text": "The height adjustment is one of the fastest things you can realise :-).\nFor the turning knob we welded a small steel strip on a clamping ring. The rest of it are just ready-to-use standard parts.\n", "title": "Height Adjustment", "_animationKey": "unique3kueh8", "images": [ @@ -220,11 +220,11 @@ "alt": "ND800_0005379_Loehrer.jpg" } ], - "text": "The wheel-mount involves considerable lathe work but is straightforward. For the turning knob, we cut a piece from a thick metal sheet and welded it to a nut. Alternatively, you can create the knob using steel strips and an angle grinder.", + "text": "The wheel-mount is a lot of lathe work but not too complex!\nFor the turning knob we lasered a part out of a thick metal sheet and welded it on a nut. Instead of a lasered part you can realise the turning knob as well by some steel strips and an angle grinder. \n", "title": "Wheel Mount" }, { - "text": "### Workshop Safety Guidelines\n\nWorkshops involve diverse participants, and safety is a top priority. We implement a color-coded system for handling equipment:\n\n- **Green:** Accessible to everyone.\n- **Orange:** Restricted to team members.\n- **Red:** Extremely hazardous; avoid contact.\n\nIn addition to our color system, we use standard warning signs and machine-specific instructions. We also install safety features like belt and shaft protections.\n\nYour suggestions for improving machine safety are welcome.", + "text": "\nWorkshops with different kinds of people are our daily business. That is why we care a lot about safety!\nTo ensure an easy and understandable handling, a good way is to use our color system.\n- Green: Everybody can touch/use it.\n- Orange: The team can touch/use it.\n- Red: Keep your body away from it, it's f***ing dangerous!\nIn addition to the color system we use common warning signs and tips and tricks written on the machine.\n\nFurthermore we build safety add-ons, such as the belt protection and the shaft protection.\n\nIf you have ideas how to make the machine safer and better, feel free to share it with us and the community!\n", "images": [ { "downloadUrl": "https://firebasestorage.googleapis.com/v0/b/onearmyworld.appspot.com/o/uploads%2Fhowtos%2FWZZzEV2jFa0TNxZ1ODIx%2Fshaft%20protection%20%2B%20belt%20protection.jpg?alt=media&token=63055617-0437-49d8-94b5-e6442788e60c", @@ -247,7 +247,7 @@ "previousSlugs": [ "bicycle-shredder-v2" ], - "description": "This tutorial provides an overview of constructing a bicycle shredder. Eighteen months ago, we released a video on building the original bicycle shredder. We have since improved the design and documentation and now present the enhanced second version.", + "description": "In this how-to we’re giving you an overview about the construction of our bicycle shredder. One and a half years ago we made the first video about how to build a bicycle shredder. Since then, we made further adjustments and are now proud to present you the second version of the machine (with a much better documentation).", "mentions": [], "id": "WZZzEV2jFa0TNxZ1ODIx", "votedUsefulBy": [ @@ -469,9 +469,5 @@ "images": [] } }, - "content": "This tutorial provides an overview of constructing a bicycle shredder. Eighteen months ago, we released a video on building the original bicycle shredder. We have since improved the design and documentation and now present the enhanced second version.\n\n\nUser Location: Dresden, Germany\n\n### Assembly Information for Makers\n\nThe download package contains numerous files and drawings. While it may seem overwhelming initially, the following steps provide further insights into the shredder's design. A brief introduction video and an assembly video are forthcoming to enhance understanding of the construction. \n\n[Download Link](https://www.dropbox.com/sh/xlts122wcb905q6/AABRgMZTki8gH1NqQ5SvOS-Ia?dl=0)\n\nMost low-speed shredders observed online or within the community tend to be large, heavy, or inefficient. Opting for high-speed shredding utilizes inertia effectively. We chose to shred materials using human-powered high-speed methods.\n\nVarious designs exist for constructing the axle. We opted to invest in standard parts to minimize further machining costs. We use span sockets for this reason. However, we recognize these components may not be available in all regions. Explore local resources and capabilities to discover alternative methods for axle manufacturing.\n\n### Shredding Plastic with the Bicycle Shredder\n\nFor effective shredding with the bicycle shredder, the cutting mill's knives must rotate at high speed. To safely introduce plastic into the cutting mill without opening it, we initially experimented with various pipe lock designs. However, these proved unreliable, leading us to create a more traditional hopper instead. Although the new hopper is larger and heavier than previous versions, it provides increased stability and safety during operation.\n\nThe sieve and collection box are constructed from bent and welded metal sheets. Use a sieve with holes approximately 5-8 mm (3/16-5/16 inches) in diameter. Smaller holes may reduce the plastic to dust. Ensure the metal sheet is of sufficient thickness for stability and the locking system; 1.5 mm (1/16 inch) is recommended.\n\nThe friction wheel transfers speed from the rear wheel to the cutting mill. We make the wheel from plywood because it can be milled using our CNC machine. However, better materials, such as certain plastics, are available for the friction wheel.\n\n### Steel Frame Construction Guide\n\nConstructing the steel frame necessitates expertise in welding and metalwork. Beginners should consult an experienced metalworker. Use plywood sheet gauges to maintain correct distances between steel tubes and employ large 45° angles to streamline the welding process.\n\nEnsure all holes and slots are drilled and milled into the steel tubes prior to welding, as alignment becomes challenging afterwards.\n\nFor welding M16 nuts, align both nuts to properly secure the rear wheel. Use a 14mm (0.55 inches) diameter steel bar for this purpose.\n\nAdjusting the height is a simple task. A small steel strip is welded to a clamping ring for the turning knob, and the rest consists of standard components.\n\nThe wheel-mount involves considerable lathe work but is straightforward. For the turning knob, we cut a piece from a thick metal sheet and welded it to a nut. Alternatively, you can create the knob using steel strips and an angle grinder.\n\n### Workshop Safety Guidelines\n\nWorkshops involve diverse participants, and safety is a top priority. We implement a color-coded system for handling equipment:\n\n- **Green:** Accessible to everyone.\n- **Orange:** Restricted to team members.\n- **Red:** Extremely hazardous; avoid contact.\n\nIn addition to our color system, we use standard warning signs and machine-specific instructions. We also install safety features like belt and shaft protections.\n\nYour suggestions for improving machine safety are welcome.", - "keywords": "bicycle shredder, construction tutorial, shredder design, assembly information, high-speed shredding, axle manufacturing, plastic shredding, steel frame construction, workshop safety, human-powered machinery", - "resources": "To build the enhanced bicycle shredder, key components and resources are organized into three main categories, each containing critical elements extracted from the tutorial documentation[1].\n\n### Tools & Workshop Equipment\n\n- Welding equipment (MIG/TIG recommended)\n- Lathe (for wheel-mount fabrication)\n- Angle grinder (for steel cutting/shaping)\n- CNC machine (plywood friction wheel milling)\n- Drilling/milling tools (pre-welding preparation)\n\n### Hardware Components\n\n- Steel tubes (14mm diameter bar for frame)\n- Span sockets (axle components)\n- M16 nuts (rear wheel mounting)\n- 1.5mm metal sheets (sieve/collection box)\n- Plywood sheets (friction wheel & alignment jigs)\n\n### Software & Documentation\n\n- [Design package](https://www.dropbox.com/sh/xlts122wcb905q6/AABRgMZTki8gH1NqQ5SvOS-Ia?dl=0) (CAD files & technical drawings)\n- Assembly video tutorials (forthcoming)\n- Sieve specifications (5-8mm holes)\n- Metalworking guidelines (bending/welding)\n- Safety system documentation (color codes/operational protocols)[1]\n\nConsult the design package and adjust components based on regional availability of materials like span sockets[1]. Prioritize safety protocols during assembly and operation.", - "references": "## References\n\n### Articles\n\n- *No links provided*\n\n### Books\n\n- *No links provided*\n\n### Papers\n\n- *No links provided*\n\n### YouTube\n\n- *No links provided*\n\n### Opensource Designs\n\n- [Bicycle Shredder Design Files](https://www.dropbox.com/sh/xlts122wcb905q6/AABRgMZTki8gH1NqQ5SvOS-Ia?dl=0)\n\n### Other\n\n- *No links provided*", - "brief": "Learn to construct an enhanced bicycle shredder with our tutorial! Discover updated designs, safety tips, and assembly info for efficient high-speed shredding." + "content": "In this how-to we’re giving you an overview about the construction of our bicycle shredder. One and a half years ago we made the first video about how to build a bicycle shredder. Since then, we made further adjustments and are now proud to present you the second version of the machine (with a much better documentation).\n\n\nUser Location: Dresden, Germany\n\nIn the download package you find a lot of files and drawings. At first sight it might be overwhelming, but don’t be afraid, we’re taking care of you ;-).\nIn addition to the download-kit, the following steps will give you further information, why the shredder is built the way it is. Furthermore a short introduction video and an assembling video is in the making to get a better understanding about the construction. Stay tuned!\n\nDownload-Link: dropbox.com: dropbox.com/sh/xlts122wcb905q6/AABRgMZTki8gH1NqQ5SvOS-Ia?dl=0\n\nNearly all low speed shredders we saw in the community or around the internet were huge, heavy or sometimes not even working proper and efficient. Using high speed instead, we have the power of inertia :-). So we decided to shred plastic with human power at high speed.\nThere are different ways to build the axle. We decided to spend a bit more money on standard parts to reduce costs as machining and post machining on the lathe. That’s why we use those span sockets. However, we are aware that these components are not available in every country in the world. Take a look on the possibilities and competencies around you, it is also possible to manufacture the axle in a different way.\n\n \n\n\nShredding plastic with the bicycle shredder - the knives of the cutting mill should run at high speed. To ensure a safe and stable shredding process, we needed a way to get the plastic into the cutting mill without opening it. In the past we worked with several versions of a pipe lock. Finally, we dismissed the pipe lock because of malfunctions. That's why we developed a more classic and simple version of a save hopper. The downside of the new version is the huge size and weight compared to the old one.\n\nThe sieve and collection box is nothing really special, just bended and welded metal sheets. We recommend using a sieve with holes about 5 - 8 mm in diameter. Very small holes will turn the plastic nearly into dust. Don't go too thin with the thickness of the metal sheet. It is important for stability and the locking system! 1,5 mm are a good size.\n\nThe friction wheel transfers the speed from the rear wheel to the cutting mill. We use plywood for the wheel because we can mill it with our own cnc machine. Nethertheless there are definitely better materials for the friction wheel, for example something out of plastic.\n\nBuilding the steel frame requires proper knowledge and experience in welding and working with metal. If you’re new in the game, look for someone with experience in metalwork.To simplify the welding process we prepared gauges -> plywood sheets to keep the right distances between the steel tubes and some big 45° angles.\n\nBefore welding everything make sure everything is drilled and milled into the steel tubes. Afterwards it's a bit tricky to get them to the right places!\n\nAnother advice: welding the m16 nuts; make sure the two nuts are in one alignment. That's important to clamp the rear-wheel right in place. We take a long steel bar (14mm in diameter).\n\n\nThe height adjustment is one of the fastest things you can realise :-).\nFor the turning knob we welded a small steel strip on a clamping ring. The rest of it are just ready-to-use standard parts.\n\n\nThe wheel-mount is a lot of lathe work but not too complex!\nFor the turning knob we lasered a part out of a thick metal sheet and welded it on a nut. Instead of a lasered part you can realise the turning knob as well by some steel strips and an angle grinder. \n\n\n\nWorkshops with different kinds of people are our daily business. That is why we care a lot about safety!\nTo ensure an easy and understandable handling, a good way is to use our color system.\n- Green: Everybody can touch/use it.\n- Orange: The team can touch/use it.\n- Red: Keep your body away from it, it's f***ing dangerous!\nIn addition to the color system we use common warning signs and tips and tricks written on the machine.\n\nFurthermore we build safety add-ons, such as the belt protection and the shaft protection.\n\nIf you have ideas how to make the machine safer and better, feel free to share it with us and the community!\n" } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/bike-pedals--grips-mould/README.md b/howtos/bike-pedals--grips-mould/README.md index 7bf674ace..954468480 100644 --- a/howtos/bike-pedals--grips-mould/README.md +++ b/howtos/bike-pedals--grips-mould/README.md @@ -1,42 +1,40 @@ --- title: Bike Pedals & Grips Mould slug: bike-pedals--grips-mould -description: # How-To: Mold Creation - -This tutorial explains how I created the mold. While injecting the pedal is quick, fabricating the mold requires significant time. Milling the mold is recommended if feasible, as welding is time-intensive. The 3D model is available for download to customize your own version. +description: In this How-To I describe how I made the mold. +Injecting the pedal is fast but making the mold takes time. I suggest you to mill the mold if you have the possibility because I welded the mold and this is time consuming. You can download the 3D model and make your own version. tags: ["HDPE","injection","mould"] category: Moulds difficulty: Medium time: < 1 day -keywords: Mold creation, injection molding, 3D model download, metal fabrication, welding instructions, plastic materials comparison, pedal fabrication, DIY mold tutorial, safety equipment for welding, metal cutting techniques +keywords: location: --- # Bike Pedals & Grips Mould ![Bike Pedals & Grips Mould](marquage2-18391d70aa8.jpg) -# How-To: Mold Creation - -This tutorial explains how I created the mold. While injecting the pedal is quick, fabricating the mold requires significant time. Milling the mold is recommended if feasible, as welding is time-intensive. The 3D model is available for download to customize your own version. +In this How-To I describe how I made the mold. +Injecting the pedal is fast but making the mold takes time. I suggest you to mill the mold if you have the possibility because I welded the mold and this is time consuming. You can download the 3D model and make your own version. ## Steps ### Step 1: Tools -- Injection machine -- Angle grinder (cutting and grinding discs) -- Vise -- Flat file, round file (optional: small rotary tool like a Proxxon or Dremel) -- Drill press -- Clamps (at least 3) -- Welding machine (for pedals) and welding attire -- Radius scriber (or a marker) -- Safety glasses -- Respirator with A1 P1 filter -- Safety gloves -- Ear protection -- Sandpaper (grit around 80) (optional: electric sander) -- Measuring tape -- Square edge -- M6, M8 thread tap -- Drill bit sizes: 4.3 mm (3/16 in), 6.4 mm (1/4 in), 6.8 mm (17/64 in), 8.4 mm (21/64 in), 11 mm (7/16 in), 20 mm (25/32 in), 22.5 mm (7/8 in) (substitute with round file if 22.5 mm unavailable) -- Tweezers (optional, for ball bearings assembly) +- Injection machine +- angle grinder (cutting and grinding discs) +- vise +- flat file, round file (opional: small grinder rotary tool like Proxxon or Dremel) +- drill press +- clamps (at leaste 3) +- welding machine (only for pedals) & welding clothes +- radius scriber (a marker works well too) +- protection glasses +- respirator with A1 P1 filter (hot plastic fumes and particles filter) +- safety gloves +- ear protection +- sanding paper (grit size around 80) (optional: electric sander) +- measuring tape +- square edge +- M6, M8 thread tap +- drill bit 4.3; 6.4; 6.8; 8.4; 11; 20 ; 22.5 mm (if you don't have the 22.5, use your round file like I did) +- tweezers (optional, for ball bearings assembly) ![injector.jpg](./injector.jpg) @@ -49,27 +47,27 @@ This tutorial explains how I created the mold. While injecting the pedal is quic ### Step 2: Material for the grips -Plastic materials: Experiments were conducted with polystyrene (PS) and polyethylene (PE). PS appears stronger, but due to the availability of only black PS, PE was used for the presented objects. The pedal has a volume of 8.85 in³ (145 cm³), and the grip is 5.13 in³ (84 cm³). +Plastic waste: I made experiments with polystyrene (PS) and polyethylene (PE). PS looks more strong but I had only black one so the presented objects are made of PE. The pedal volume is 145 cm^3 and the grip 84 cm^3. -Components for Grips: +For the grips: -- Metal Tube: Internal diameter should match the desired grip size; larger diameters offer better comfort. Selected diameter: 1.38 in (35 mm). Length should match desired grip length minus 0.12 in (3 mm). Example: For two grips of 5.12 in (130 mm) each, actual length is 5 in (127 mm). -- Metal Sheet: Steel, 0.16 in (4 mm) thick; dimensions 7.09 x 2.36 in (180 x 60 mm). -- Threaded Rod: M6 x 17.72 in (450 mm); M8 x 5.91 in (150 mm). -- Nuts: 6 units, M6. -- Metal Cylinder: Diameter of 0.88 in (22.3 mm), length of 4.37 in (111 mm). Standard handlebars are 0.87 in (22 mm) in diameter, so choose slightly larger. -- Bolt: M8 x 0.79 in (20 mm). -- Washer: M20. -- Nut: M8. +- metal tube (internal diameter = diameter you want for the grips, big ones are more comfortable. I chose 35mm. Lenght = lenght you want for the two grips - 3 mm. I have 2 x 130 mm so my grips are 127 leght) +- metal sheet (steel 4 mm thick; 180 x 60 mm) +- threaded rod (M6 x 450; M8 x 150 mm) +- 6 nuts M6 +- metal cylinder (diameter 22.3 length 111 mm) (standard handlebar have diameter 22 mm so take just a little bit more) +- 1 bolt M8 x 20 +- 1 washer M20 +- 1 nut M8 ### Step 3: Material for the pedals -- Metal sheet (steel 0.16 in thick; 4.72 x 9.45 in; 1.02 x 27.56 in) -- Welding rod (0.08 or 0.12 in) -- 3 bolts M6 x 10 (any size is suitable with the corresponding drill bits) -- 2 pedal axles with ball bearings, washers, and nuts -- Wood (optional for positioning during welding) (pedal size) -- 4 bolts and nuts M4 x 40 (only length required) +- metal sheet (steel 4mm thick; 120 x 240; 26 x 700 mm) +- welding rod (2 or 3 mm) +- 3 bolts M6 x 10 (any size would works but you need the corresponding drill bits) +- 2 pedal axles with ball bearings, washers and nuts +- wood (for positioning during welding, optional) (pedal size) +- 4 bolts and nuts M4 x 40 (only length matter) - 24 setscrews M6 x 8 @@ -77,7 +75,16 @@ Components for Grips: ### Step 4: Grip mold: cut the parts -Cut the tube to the desired grip length (5.12 in). Cut four hexagons with 1.30 in sides. Drill three corner holes in each hexagon. In the first, drill a central hexagon with 0.39 in sides. In the second, drill a 0.20 in center hole. In the third, drill a 0.89 in center hole. In the fourth, drill a 0.31 in center hole. Cut three M5 and one M8 threaded rods to 5.91 in. Cut the cylinder to the required length (4.37 in). Make an M8 x 0.79 threaded hole at the center of one cylinder end. +Cut the tube at the length you want for your grips (mine are 130 mm). +Cut four hexagones with side length 33 mm. +In each of them, drill three holes in the corners. +In the first one, drill another hexagone with 10 mm side length in the center. +In the second one, drill a 5 mm hole in the center. +In the third one, drill a 22.5 mm hole in the center. +In the fourth one, drill a 8 mm hole in the center. +Cut three M5 and one M8 threaded rods at 150 mm. +Cut the cylinder at the length you want (111 mm for me). +Make a M8 x 20 threaded hole at the center of one cylinder side. ![plaques.jpg](./plaques.jpg) @@ -87,13 +94,15 @@ Cut the tube to the desired grip length (5.12 in). Cut four hexagons with 1.30 i ### Step 5: Pedal mold: cut the parts -Cut two squares measuring 120 x 120 mm (4.72 x 4.72 inches) from the metal sheet. Drill holes in the four corners with a diameter of 4.3 mm (0.17 inches). Outline the desired pedal shape on one square face. Drill the injection hole at your chosen location, with a recommended diameter of 5 mm (0.2 inches), ideally centered. - -Cut a metal band of 26 mm (1.02 inches) height and a minimum of 300 mm (11.81 inches) length, and another band of 26 mm (1.02 inches) height by at least 340 mm (13.39 inches) length. From the 300 mm band, cut segments of 15.6 mm (0.61 inches) (2 pieces); 24 mm (0.94 inches) (2 pieces); 18 mm (0.71 inches) (2 pieces); 33 mm (1.30 inches) (2 pieces); and 25 mm (0.98 inches) (2 pieces). Cut one piece measuring 43.4 mm (1.71 inches). - -From the 340 mm band, cut 40 mm (1.57 inches) (2 pieces); 56 mm (2.20 inches) (4 pieces); and 27.7 mm (1.09 inches) (1 piece). - -Additionally, cut six small pieces measuring 5 x 10 mm (0.20 x 0.39 inches) to wedge the mold parts. For the triangle and trapezoid center, cut two pieces of 25 x 7 mm (0.98 x 0.28 inches) and one piece of 4 x 35 mm (0.16 x 1.38 inches). +Cut two squares 120 x 120 mm in the metal sheet. +Make holes in the four corners (4.3 mm in my case). +Scribe the pedal shape on one square face. +Drill the injection hole where you want it(I chose diameter 5, in the center). +Cut a band of 26 mm height and at least 300 length and another of 26 (precisely) x 340 (at least). +Cut the 300 band in 15.6 (2x); 24 (2x); 18 (2x); 33 (2x); 25 (2x); 43.4 (1x). +Cut the 340 band in 40 (2x); 56 (4x); 27.7 (1x). +Cut also six small pieces in order to wedge the mold part together (5 x 10 mm). +Cut three more to make the triangle and trapeze center (25 x 7 (2x); 4 x 35 (1x)). ![marquage2.jpg](./marquage2.jpg) @@ -106,11 +115,9 @@ Additionally, cut six small pieces measuring 5 x 10 mm (0.20 x 0.39 inches) to w ### Step 6: Make the Pedal Mold: Weld It -### Welding Instructions +Before welding you need to add an angle (around 2 degrees) on each vertical face of the wooden parts (triangle, trapezes and pedal). This will ease the extracting process. I accomplished this with the sanding machine. -Before welding, sand each vertical face of the wooden parts (triangle, trapezoids, and pedal) at an angle of approximately 2 degrees to facilitate extraction. I used a sanding machine for this task. - -To weld the pedal perimeter, clamp the wooden pedal on your welding surface and secure the edges you plan to weld. Repeat this process with the other parts, ensuring they remain flat against the ground. My initial arc welding attempt yielded less than perfect results, but this only increases the grinding duration. +Weld the pedal perimeter: Clamp the wooden pedal on your welding surface and clamp the edges you want to weld (cf. picture). Continue with the other parts always ensuring that your parts are well against the ground. It was my first arc welding job and you can notice the poor result but it doesn't matter, it just extend the grinding time. ![serrejoint.jpg](./serrejoint.jpg) @@ -120,17 +127,17 @@ To weld the pedal perimeter, clamp the wooden pedal on your welding surface and ### Step 7: Inject the Grips -1. Turn on the heater. -2. Assemble the cylinder with the base hexagon (No. 4). -3. Insert the three threaded rods. -4. Place the washer around the cylinder. -5. Attach the tube. -6. Install the top hexagon with the injection hole (No. 2). -7. Add the top hexagon with a hexagonal hole (No. 1). -8. Secure with nuts. -9. Fill the machine with plastic. -10. Wait for 5 minutes. -11. Inject. +Turn the heater on. +Assemble the cylinder with the basis hexagon (Nbr. 4). +Add the three threaded rod. +Add the washer around the cylinder. +Add the tube. +Add the top hexagon with the injecting hole (Nbr. 2). +Add the top hexagon with the hexagonal hole (Nbr. 1). +Secure it with the nuts. +Start filling the machine with plastic. +Wait 5 min. +inject. Remove the grip using the M8 threaded rod and nut. @@ -145,8 +152,8 @@ Remove the grip using the M8 threaded rod and nut. ### Step 8: Inject the Pedals -Heat the machine (temperature conversion: enter desired temperature in °C or °F). -Fill with old plastic (material volume conversion: kg to lb or vice versa). +Heat the machine. +Fill with old plastic. Inject. Open the mold. @@ -161,7 +168,14 @@ Open the mold. ### Step 9: Finish and Assembly -Ensure the pedal is firmly positioned in the jig. Attach an 11 mm (7/16 inch) drill bit, aligning it with the pedal center. Secure the jig to the drill and completely drill through the pedal. Switch to a 20 mm (3/4 inch) drill bit and drill 8 mm (5/16 inch) deep on the bike side of the pedal. Flip the pedal and drill 15 mm (5/8 inch) deep on the outer part, measuring from the flat face. +Secure the pedal in the jig. +Mount the 11 mm drill bit and align it with the pedal center. +Secure the jig to the drill. +Drill through all the pedal. +Mount the 20mm drill bit. +Drill the bike side of the pedal 8 mm depth. +Flip the pedal. +Drill the outer part of the pedal 15 mm depth (measured from the flat face, not the top triangle). ![pedalfinition.jpg](./pedalfinition.jpg) @@ -173,46 +187,4 @@ Ensure the pedal is firmly positioned in the jig. Attach an 11 mm (7/16 inch) dr ![pedalfinition4.jpg](./pedalfinition4.jpg) ## Resources -### Tools - -- Injection machine -- Angle grinder (cutting and grinding discs) -- Drill press (with 4.3mm–22.5mm bits) -- Welding machine (with protective attire) -- M6/M8 thread taps - -### Software - -- 3D modeling software (for customizing mold design) - -### Hardware - -- Steel sheets (4mm thick) -- Metal tubes (35mm internal diameter) -- Threaded rods (M6/M8) -- Assorted nuts/bolts (M4/M6/M8) -- Plastic pellets (PS/PE) -## References -## References - -### YouTube - -- [Beginner To Advanced — How To Create a Mold— Part 1](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_hGMWhde1So) [1] -- [Mold Design for Beginners](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hRU_qNr8zLg) [8] - -### Articles - -- [DIY Injection Molding: How to Mold Plastic Parts In-House - Formlabs](https://formlabs.com/blog/diy-injection-molding/) [2] -- [A Step by Step Guide to Injection Molding - SyBridge Technologies](https://sybridge.com/injection-molding-guide/) [5] - -### Books - -- [Mold Making and Casting Guide Book - ComposiMold.com](https://composimoldstore.com/mold-making-and-casting-guide/) [3] - -### Papers - -- [Overview of Injection Molding Technology for Processing Polymers (PDF)](https://www.espublisher.com/uploads/article_pdf/esmm5f713.pdf) [4] - -### Open-Source Designs - -- [Open Source Skateboard Mold - Good Roads Collective](https://www.goodroadscollective.com/open-source-skateboard-mold) [6] \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/bike-pedals--grips-mould/config.json b/howtos/bike-pedals--grips-mould/config.json index fb15240cb..07c802369 100644 --- a/howtos/bike-pedals--grips-mould/config.json +++ b/howtos/bike-pedals--grips-mould/config.json @@ -89,18 +89,18 @@ "alt": "instruments.jpg" } ], - "text": "- Injection machine \n- Angle grinder (cutting and grinding discs) \n- Vise \n- Flat file, round file (optional: small rotary tool like a Proxxon or Dremel) \n- Drill press \n- Clamps (at least 3) \n- Welding machine (for pedals) and welding attire \n- Radius scriber (or a marker) \n- Safety glasses \n- Respirator with A1 P1 filter \n- Safety gloves \n- Ear protection \n- Sandpaper (grit around 80) (optional: electric sander) \n- Measuring tape \n- Square edge \n- M6, M8 thread tap \n- Drill bit sizes: 4.3 mm (3/16 in), 6.4 mm (1/4 in), 6.8 mm (17/64 in), 8.4 mm (21/64 in), 11 mm (7/16 in), 20 mm (25/32 in), 22.5 mm (7/8 in) (substitute with round file if 22.5 mm unavailable) \n- Tweezers (optional, for ball bearings assembly)", + "text": "- Injection machine\n- angle grinder (cutting and grinding discs)\n- vise\n- flat file, round file (opional: small grinder rotary tool like Proxxon or Dremel)\n- drill press\n- clamps (at leaste 3)\n- welding machine (only for pedals) & welding clothes\n- radius scriber (a marker works well too)\n- protection glasses\n- respirator with A1 P1 filter (hot plastic fumes and particles filter)\n- safety gloves\n- ear protection\n- sanding paper (grit size around 80) (optional: electric sander)\n- measuring tape\n- square edge\n- M6, M8 thread tap\n- drill bit 4.3; 6.4; 6.8; 8.4; 11; 20 ; 22.5 mm (if you don't have the 22.5, use your round file like I did)\n- tweezers (optional, for ball bearings assembly)", "title": "Tools" }, { "title": "Material for the grips", "images": [], "_animationKey": "unique2", - "text": "Plastic materials: Experiments were conducted with polystyrene (PS) and polyethylene (PE). PS appears stronger, but due to the availability of only black PS, PE was used for the presented objects. The pedal has a volume of 8.85 in³ (145 cm³), and the grip is 5.13 in³ (84 cm³).\n\nComponents for Grips:\n\n- Metal Tube: Internal diameter should match the desired grip size; larger diameters offer better comfort. Selected diameter: 1.38 in (35 mm). Length should match desired grip length minus 0.12 in (3 mm). Example: For two grips of 5.12 in (130 mm) each, actual length is 5 in (127 mm).\n- Metal Sheet: Steel, 0.16 in (4 mm) thick; dimensions 7.09 x 2.36 in (180 x 60 mm).\n- Threaded Rod: M6 x 17.72 in (450 mm); M8 x 5.91 in (150 mm).\n- Nuts: 6 units, M6.\n- Metal Cylinder: Diameter of 0.88 in (22.3 mm), length of 4.37 in (111 mm). Standard handlebars are 0.87 in (22 mm) in diameter, so choose slightly larger.\n- Bolt: M8 x 0.79 in (20 mm).\n- Washer: M20.\n- Nut: M8.", + "text": "Plastic waste: I made experiments with polystyrene (PS) and polyethylene (PE). PS looks more strong but I had only black one so the presented objects are made of PE. The pedal volume is 145 cm^3 and the grip 84 cm^3.\n\nFor the grips:\n\n- metal tube (internal diameter = diameter you want for the grips, big ones are more comfortable. I chose 35mm. Lenght = lenght you want for the two grips - 3 mm. I have 2 x 130 mm so my grips are 127 leght)\n- metal sheet (steel 4 mm thick; 180 x 60 mm)\n- threaded rod (M6 x 450; M8 x 150 mm)\n- 6 nuts M6\n- metal cylinder (diameter 22.3 length 111 mm) (standard handlebar have diameter 22 mm so take just a little bit more)\n- 1 bolt M8 x 20\n- 1 washer M20\n- 1 nut M8", "videoUrl": "https://youtu.be/6jSAeB-iIlY" }, { - "text": "- Metal sheet (steel 0.16 in thick; 4.72 x 9.45 in; 1.02 x 27.56 in)\n- Welding rod (0.08 or 0.12 in)\n- 3 bolts M6 x 10 (any size is suitable with the corresponding drill bits)\n- 2 pedal axles with ball bearings, washers, and nuts\n- Wood (optional for positioning during welding) (pedal size)\n- 4 bolts and nuts M4 x 40 (only length required)\n- 24 setscrews M6 x 8", + "text": "- metal sheet (steel 4mm thick; 120 x 240; 26 x 700 mm)\n- welding rod (2 or 3 mm)\n- 3 bolts M6 x 10 (any size would works but you need the corresponding drill bits)\n- 2 pedal axles with ball bearings, washers and nuts\n- wood (for positioning during welding, optional) (pedal size)\n- 4 bolts and nuts M4 x 40 (only length matter)\n- 24 setscrews M6 x 8", "images": [ { "size": 154242, @@ -145,14 +145,14 @@ "alt": "marquage.jpg" } ], - "text": "Cut the tube to the desired grip length (5.12 in). Cut four hexagons with 1.30 in sides. Drill three corner holes in each hexagon. In the first, drill a central hexagon with 0.39 in sides. In the second, drill a 0.20 in center hole. In the third, drill a 0.89 in center hole. In the fourth, drill a 0.31 in center hole. Cut three M5 and one M8 threaded rods to 5.91 in. Cut the cylinder to the required length (4.37 in). Make an M8 x 0.79 threaded hole at the center of one cylinder end.", + "text": "Cut the tube at the length you want for your grips (mine are 130 mm).\nCut four hexagones with side length 33 mm.\nIn each of them, drill three holes in the corners.\nIn the first one, drill another hexagone with 10 mm side length in the center.\nIn the second one, drill a 5 mm hole in the center.\nIn the third one, drill a 22.5 mm hole in the center.\nIn the fourth one, drill a 8 mm hole in the center.\nCut three M5 and one M8 threaded rods at 150 mm.\nCut the cylinder at the length you want (111 mm for me).\nMake a M8 x 20 threaded hole at the center of one cylinder side.", "_animationKey": "uniqueao7x1f", "title": "Grip mold: cut the parts" }, { "_animationKey": "uniquewmatos", "title": "Pedal mold: cut the parts", - "text": "Cut two squares measuring 120 x 120 mm (4.72 x 4.72 inches) from the metal sheet. Drill holes in the four corners with a diameter of 4.3 mm (0.17 inches). Outline the desired pedal shape on one square face. Drill the injection hole at your chosen location, with a recommended diameter of 5 mm (0.2 inches), ideally centered.\n\nCut a metal band of 26 mm (1.02 inches) height and a minimum of 300 mm (11.81 inches) length, and another band of 26 mm (1.02 inches) height by at least 340 mm (13.39 inches) length. From the 300 mm band, cut segments of 15.6 mm (0.61 inches) (2 pieces); 24 mm (0.94 inches) (2 pieces); 18 mm (0.71 inches) (2 pieces); 33 mm (1.30 inches) (2 pieces); and 25 mm (0.98 inches) (2 pieces). Cut one piece measuring 43.4 mm (1.71 inches).\n\nFrom the 340 mm band, cut 40 mm (1.57 inches) (2 pieces); 56 mm (2.20 inches) (4 pieces); and 27.7 mm (1.09 inches) (1 piece).\n\nAdditionally, cut six small pieces measuring 5 x 10 mm (0.20 x 0.39 inches) to wedge the mold parts. For the triangle and trapezoid center, cut two pieces of 25 x 7 mm (0.98 x 0.28 inches) and one piece of 4 x 35 mm (0.16 x 1.38 inches).", + "text": "Cut two squares 120 x 120 mm in the metal sheet.\nMake holes in the four corners (4.3 mm in my case).\nScribe the pedal shape on one square face.\nDrill the injection hole where you want it(I chose diameter 5, in the center).\nCut a band of 26 mm height and at least 300 length and another of 26 (precisely) x 340 (at least).\nCut the 300 band in 15.6 (2x); 24 (2x); 18 (2x); 33 (2x); 25 (2x); 43.4 (1x).\nCut the 340 band in 40 (2x); 56 (4x); 27.7 (1x).\nCut also six small pieces in order to wedge the mold part together (5 x 10 mm).\nCut three more to make the triangle and trapeze center (25 x 7 (2x); 4 x 35 (1x)).", "images": [ { "size": 154242, @@ -194,7 +194,7 @@ }, { "_animationKey": "unique2ceifd", - "text": "### Welding Instructions\n\nBefore welding, sand each vertical face of the wooden parts (triangle, trapezoids, and pedal) at an angle of approximately 2 degrees to facilitate extraction. I used a sanding machine for this task.\n\nTo weld the pedal perimeter, clamp the wooden pedal on your welding surface and secure the edges you plan to weld. Repeat this process with the other parts, ensuring they remain flat against the ground. My initial arc welding attempt yielded less than perfect results, but this only increases the grinding duration.", + "text": "Before welding you need to add an angle (around 2 degrees) on each vertical face of the wooden parts (triangle, trapezes and pedal). This will ease the extracting process. I accomplished this with the sanding machine. \n\nWeld the pedal perimeter: Clamp the wooden pedal on your welding surface and clamp the edges you want to weld (cf. picture). Continue with the other parts always ensuring that your parts are well against the ground. It was my first arc welding job and you can notice the poor result but it doesn't matter, it just extend the grinding time. ", "images": [ { "contentType": "image/jpeg", @@ -263,7 +263,7 @@ } ], "title": "Inject the Grips", - "text": "1. Turn on the heater.\n2. Assemble the cylinder with the base hexagon (No. 4).\n3. Insert the three threaded rods.\n4. Place the washer around the cylinder.\n5. Attach the tube.\n6. Install the top hexagon with the injection hole (No. 2).\n7. Add the top hexagon with a hexagonal hole (No. 1).\n8. Secure with nuts.\n9. Fill the machine with plastic.\n10. Wait for 5 minutes.\n11. Inject.\n\nRemove the grip using the M8 threaded rod and nut.", + "text": "Turn the heater on.\nAssemble the cylinder with the basis hexagon (Nbr. 4).\nAdd the three threaded rod.\nAdd the washer around the cylinder.\nAdd the tube.\nAdd the top hexagon with the injecting hole (Nbr. 2).\nAdd the top hexagon with the hexagonal hole (Nbr. 1).\nSecure it with the nuts.\nStart filling the machine with plastic.\nWait 5 min.\ninject.\n\nRemove the grip using the M8 threaded rod and nut.", "_animationKey": "uniquelpyu7d" }, { @@ -307,11 +307,11 @@ ], "_animationKey": "unique93pxzq", "title": "Inject the Pedals", - "text": "Heat the machine (temperature conversion: enter desired temperature in °C or °F).\nFill with old plastic (material volume conversion: kg to lb or vice versa).\nInject.\nOpen the mold." + "text": "Heat the machine.\nFill with old plastic.\nInject.\nOpen the mold." }, { "title": "Finish and Assembly", - "text": "Ensure the pedal is firmly positioned in the jig. Attach an 11 mm (7/16 inch) drill bit, aligning it with the pedal center. Secure the jig to the drill and completely drill through the pedal. Switch to a 20 mm (3/4 inch) drill bit and drill 8 mm (5/16 inch) deep on the bike side of the pedal. Flip the pedal and drill 15 mm (5/8 inch) deep on the outer part, measuring from the flat face.", + "text": "Secure the pedal in the jig.\nMount the 11 mm drill bit and align it with the pedal center.\nSecure the jig to the drill.\nDrill through all the pedal.\nMount the 20mm drill bit.\nDrill the bike side of the pedal 8 mm depth.\nFlip the pedal.\nDrill the outer part of the pedal 15 mm depth (measured from the flat face, not the top triangle).", "images": [ { "timeCreated": "2021-01-11T15:37:32.843Z", @@ -355,12 +355,8 @@ ], "total_views": 226, "id": "Zpn1YMJVi9qNqhQWcgcu", - "description": "# How-To: Mold Creation\n\nThis tutorial explains how I created the mold. While injecting the pedal is quick, fabricating the mold requires significant time. Milling the mold is recommended if feasible, as welding is time-intensive. The 3D model is available for download to customize your own version.", + "description": "In this How-To I describe how I made the mold. \nInjecting the pedal is fast but making the mold takes time. I suggest you to mill the mold if you have the possibility because I welded the mold and this is time consuming. You can download the 3D model and make your own version.", "_id": "Zpn1YMJVi9qNqhQWcgcu", "_deleted": false, - "content": "# How-To: Mold Creation\n\nThis tutorial explains how I created the mold. While injecting the pedal is quick, fabricating the mold requires significant time. Milling the mold is recommended if feasible, as welding is time-intensive. The 3D model is available for download to customize your own version.\n\n- Injection machine \n- Angle grinder (cutting and grinding discs) \n- Vise \n- Flat file, round file (optional: small rotary tool like a Proxxon or Dremel) \n- Drill press \n- Clamps (at least 3) \n- Welding machine (for pedals) and welding attire \n- Radius scriber (or a marker) \n- Safety glasses \n- Respirator with A1 P1 filter \n- Safety gloves \n- Ear protection \n- Sandpaper (grit around 80) (optional: electric sander) \n- Measuring tape \n- Square edge \n- M6, M8 thread tap \n- Drill bit sizes: 4.3 mm (3/16 in), 6.4 mm (1/4 in), 6.8 mm (17/64 in), 8.4 mm (21/64 in), 11 mm (7/16 in), 20 mm (25/32 in), 22.5 mm (7/8 in) (substitute with round file if 22.5 mm unavailable) \n- Tweezers (optional, for ball bearings assembly)\n\nPlastic materials: Experiments were conducted with polystyrene (PS) and polyethylene (PE). PS appears stronger, but due to the availability of only black PS, PE was used for the presented objects. The pedal has a volume of 8.85 in³ (145 cm³), and the grip is 5.13 in³ (84 cm³).\n\nComponents for Grips:\n\n- Metal Tube: Internal diameter should match the desired grip size; larger diameters offer better comfort. Selected diameter: 1.38 in (35 mm). Length should match desired grip length minus 0.12 in (3 mm). Example: For two grips of 5.12 in (130 mm) each, actual length is 5 in (127 mm).\n- Metal Sheet: Steel, 0.16 in (4 mm) thick; dimensions 7.09 x 2.36 in (180 x 60 mm).\n- Threaded Rod: M6 x 17.72 in (450 mm); M8 x 5.91 in (150 mm).\n- Nuts: 6 units, M6.\n- Metal Cylinder: Diameter of 0.88 in (22.3 mm), length of 4.37 in (111 mm). Standard handlebars are 0.87 in (22 mm) in diameter, so choose slightly larger.\n- Bolt: M8 x 0.79 in (20 mm).\n- Washer: M20.\n- Nut: M8.\n\n- Metal sheet (steel 0.16 in thick; 4.72 x 9.45 in; 1.02 x 27.56 in)\n- Welding rod (0.08 or 0.12 in)\n- 3 bolts M6 x 10 (any size is suitable with the corresponding drill bits)\n- 2 pedal axles with ball bearings, washers, and nuts\n- Wood (optional for positioning during welding) (pedal size)\n- 4 bolts and nuts M4 x 40 (only length required)\n- 24 setscrews M6 x 8\n\nCut the tube to the desired grip length (5.12 in). Cut four hexagons with 1.30 in sides. Drill three corner holes in each hexagon. In the first, drill a central hexagon with 0.39 in sides. In the second, drill a 0.20 in center hole. In the third, drill a 0.89 in center hole. In the fourth, drill a 0.31 in center hole. Cut three M5 and one M8 threaded rods to 5.91 in. Cut the cylinder to the required length (4.37 in). Make an M8 x 0.79 threaded hole at the center of one cylinder end.\n\nCut two squares measuring 120 x 120 mm (4.72 x 4.72 inches) from the metal sheet. Drill holes in the four corners with a diameter of 4.3 mm (0.17 inches). Outline the desired pedal shape on one square face. Drill the injection hole at your chosen location, with a recommended diameter of 5 mm (0.2 inches), ideally centered.\n\nCut a metal band of 26 mm (1.02 inches) height and a minimum of 300 mm (11.81 inches) length, and another band of 26 mm (1.02 inches) height by at least 340 mm (13.39 inches) length. From the 300 mm band, cut segments of 15.6 mm (0.61 inches) (2 pieces); 24 mm (0.94 inches) (2 pieces); 18 mm (0.71 inches) (2 pieces); 33 mm (1.30 inches) (2 pieces); and 25 mm (0.98 inches) (2 pieces). Cut one piece measuring 43.4 mm (1.71 inches).\n\nFrom the 340 mm band, cut 40 mm (1.57 inches) (2 pieces); 56 mm (2.20 inches) (4 pieces); and 27.7 mm (1.09 inches) (1 piece).\n\nAdditionally, cut six small pieces measuring 5 x 10 mm (0.20 x 0.39 inches) to wedge the mold parts. For the triangle and trapezoid center, cut two pieces of 25 x 7 mm (0.98 x 0.28 inches) and one piece of 4 x 35 mm (0.16 x 1.38 inches).\n\n### Welding Instructions\n\nBefore welding, sand each vertical face of the wooden parts (triangle, trapezoids, and pedal) at an angle of approximately 2 degrees to facilitate extraction. I used a sanding machine for this task.\n\nTo weld the pedal perimeter, clamp the wooden pedal on your welding surface and secure the edges you plan to weld. Repeat this process with the other parts, ensuring they remain flat against the ground. My initial arc welding attempt yielded less than perfect results, but this only increases the grinding duration.\n\n1. Turn on the heater.\n2. Assemble the cylinder with the base hexagon (No. 4).\n3. Insert the three threaded rods.\n4. Place the washer around the cylinder.\n5. Attach the tube.\n6. Install the top hexagon with the injection hole (No. 2).\n7. Add the top hexagon with a hexagonal hole (No. 1).\n8. Secure with nuts.\n9. Fill the machine with plastic.\n10. Wait for 5 minutes.\n11. Inject.\n\nRemove the grip using the M8 threaded rod and nut.\n\nHeat the machine (temperature conversion: enter desired temperature in °C or °F).\nFill with old plastic (material volume conversion: kg to lb or vice versa).\nInject.\nOpen the mold.\n\nEnsure the pedal is firmly positioned in the jig. Attach an 11 mm (7/16 inch) drill bit, aligning it with the pedal center. Secure the jig to the drill and completely drill through the pedal. Switch to a 20 mm (3/4 inch) drill bit and drill 8 mm (5/16 inch) deep on the bike side of the pedal. Flip the pedal and drill 15 mm (5/8 inch) deep on the outer part, measuring from the flat face.", - "keywords": "Mold creation, injection molding, 3D model download, metal fabrication, welding instructions, plastic materials comparison, pedal fabrication, DIY mold tutorial, safety equipment for welding, metal cutting techniques", - "resources": "### Tools\n\n- Injection machine\n- Angle grinder (cutting and grinding discs)\n- Drill press (with 4.3mm–22.5mm bits)\n- Welding machine (with protective attire)\n- M6/M8 thread taps\n\n### Software\n\n- 3D modeling software (for customizing mold design)\n\n### Hardware\n\n- Steel sheets (4mm thick)\n- Metal tubes (35mm internal diameter)\n- Threaded rods (M6/M8)\n- Assorted nuts/bolts (M4/M6/M8)\n- Plastic pellets (PS/PE)", - "references": "## References\n\n### YouTube\n\n- [Beginner To Advanced — How To Create a Mold— Part 1](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_hGMWhde1So) [1]\n- [Mold Design for Beginners](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hRU_qNr8zLg) [8]\n\n### Articles\n\n- [DIY Injection Molding: How to Mold Plastic Parts In-House - Formlabs](https://formlabs.com/blog/diy-injection-molding/) [2]\n- [A Step by Step Guide to Injection Molding - SyBridge Technologies](https://sybridge.com/injection-molding-guide/) [5]\n\n### Books\n\n- [Mold Making and Casting Guide Book - ComposiMold.com](https://composimoldstore.com/mold-making-and-casting-guide/) [3]\n\n### Papers\n\n- [Overview of Injection Molding Technology for Processing Polymers (PDF)](https://www.espublisher.com/uploads/article_pdf/esmm5f713.pdf) [4]\n\n### Open-Source Designs\n\n- [Open Source Skateboard Mold - Good Roads Collective](https://www.goodroadscollective.com/open-source-skateboard-mold) [6]", - "brief": "Learn mold creation for pedals with our step-by-step tutorial. Discover essential tools, materials, and detailed instructions for successful DIY projects." + "content": "In this How-To I describe how I made the mold. \nInjecting the pedal is fast but making the mold takes time. I suggest you to mill the mold if you have the possibility because I welded the mold and this is time consuming. You can download the 3D model and make your own version.\n\n- Injection machine\n- angle grinder (cutting and grinding discs)\n- vise\n- flat file, round file (opional: small grinder rotary tool like Proxxon or Dremel)\n- drill press\n- clamps (at leaste 3)\n- welding machine (only for pedals) & welding clothes\n- radius scriber (a marker works well too)\n- protection glasses\n- respirator with A1 P1 filter (hot plastic fumes and particles filter)\n- safety gloves\n- ear protection\n- sanding paper (grit size around 80) (optional: electric sander)\n- measuring tape\n- square edge\n- M6, M8 thread tap\n- drill bit 4.3; 6.4; 6.8; 8.4; 11; 20 ; 22.5 mm (if you don't have the 22.5, use your round file like I did)\n- tweezers (optional, for ball bearings assembly)\n\nPlastic waste: I made experiments with polystyrene (PS) and polyethylene (PE). PS looks more strong but I had only black one so the presented objects are made of PE. The pedal volume is 145 cm^3 and the grip 84 cm^3.\n\nFor the grips:\n\n- metal tube (internal diameter = diameter you want for the grips, big ones are more comfortable. I chose 35mm. Lenght = lenght you want for the two grips - 3 mm. I have 2 x 130 mm so my grips are 127 leght)\n- metal sheet (steel 4 mm thick; 180 x 60 mm)\n- threaded rod (M6 x 450; M8 x 150 mm)\n- 6 nuts M6\n- metal cylinder (diameter 22.3 length 111 mm) (standard handlebar have diameter 22 mm so take just a little bit more)\n- 1 bolt M8 x 20\n- 1 washer M20\n- 1 nut M8\n\n- metal sheet (steel 4mm thick; 120 x 240; 26 x 700 mm)\n- welding rod (2 or 3 mm)\n- 3 bolts M6 x 10 (any size would works but you need the corresponding drill bits)\n- 2 pedal axles with ball bearings, washers and nuts\n- wood (for positioning during welding, optional) (pedal size)\n- 4 bolts and nuts M4 x 40 (only length matter)\n- 24 setscrews M6 x 8\n\nCut the tube at the length you want for your grips (mine are 130 mm).\nCut four hexagones with side length 33 mm.\nIn each of them, drill three holes in the corners.\nIn the first one, drill another hexagone with 10 mm side length in the center.\nIn the second one, drill a 5 mm hole in the center.\nIn the third one, drill a 22.5 mm hole in the center.\nIn the fourth one, drill a 8 mm hole in the center.\nCut three M5 and one M8 threaded rods at 150 mm.\nCut the cylinder at the length you want (111 mm for me).\nMake a M8 x 20 threaded hole at the center of one cylinder side.\n\nCut two squares 120 x 120 mm in the metal sheet.\nMake holes in the four corners (4.3 mm in my case).\nScribe the pedal shape on one square face.\nDrill the injection hole where you want it(I chose diameter 5, in the center).\nCut a band of 26 mm height and at least 300 length and another of 26 (precisely) x 340 (at least).\nCut the 300 band in 15.6 (2x); 24 (2x); 18 (2x); 33 (2x); 25 (2x); 43.4 (1x).\nCut the 340 band in 40 (2x); 56 (4x); 27.7 (1x).\nCut also six small pieces in order to wedge the mold part together (5 x 10 mm).\nCut three more to make the triangle and trapeze center (25 x 7 (2x); 4 x 35 (1x)).\n\nBefore welding you need to add an angle (around 2 degrees) on each vertical face of the wooden parts (triangle, trapezes and pedal). This will ease the extracting process. I accomplished this with the sanding machine. \n\nWeld the pedal perimeter: Clamp the wooden pedal on your welding surface and clamp the edges you want to weld (cf. picture). Continue with the other parts always ensuring that your parts are well against the ground. It was my first arc welding job and you can notice the poor result but it doesn't matter, it just extend the grinding time. \n\nTurn the heater on.\nAssemble the cylinder with the basis hexagon (Nbr. 4).\nAdd the three threaded rod.\nAdd the washer around the cylinder.\nAdd the tube.\nAdd the top hexagon with the injecting hole (Nbr. 2).\nAdd the top hexagon with the hexagonal hole (Nbr. 1).\nSecure it with the nuts.\nStart filling the machine with plastic.\nWait 5 min.\ninject.\n\nRemove the grip using the M8 threaded rod and nut.\n\nHeat the machine.\nFill with old plastic.\nInject.\nOpen the mold.\n\nSecure the pedal in the jig.\nMount the 11 mm drill bit and align it with the pedal center.\nSecure the jig to the drill.\nDrill through all the pedal.\nMount the 20mm drill bit.\nDrill the bike side of the pedal 8 mm depth.\nFlip the pedal.\nDrill the outer part of the pedal 15 mm depth (measured from the flat face, not the top triangle)." } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/boards-made-from-marine-litter/README.md b/howtos/boards-made-from-marine-litter/README.md index f766a6d9d..4400eaccb 100644 --- a/howtos/boards-made-from-marine-litter/README.md +++ b/howtos/boards-made-from-marine-litter/README.md @@ -1,29 +1,37 @@ --- title: Boards made from marine litter slug: boards-made-from-marine-litter -description: Creation and manufacture of boards or panels using recycled polypropylene plastic and fishing nets recovered by Spanish fishermen. +description: Creation and manufacture of boards or panels using as raw material recycled polypropylene plastic and fishing nets recovered by fishermen from the coast of Spain. -This project is developed in collaboration with Vertidos Cero Association and AIMPLAS. +Learn more about creation and manufacture of products with this material here https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/products-made-from-marine-litter + + +This is a project developed jointly with Vertidos Cero Association and AIMPLAS. tags: ["PS","untagged","product","sheetpress","PP","untagged"] category: Products difficulty: Medium time: < 1 week -keywords: recycled polypropylene plastic, fishing nets recycling, eco-friendly boards, sustainable materials, AIMPLAS collaboration, Vertidos Cero project, Mares Circulares initiative, marine litter processing, Spanish fishermen collaboration, plastic sheet pressing +keywords: location: Gandia, Spain --- # Boards made from marine litter ![Boards made from marine litter](119f7b3b-8e23-43d7-90d7-3c41eb0e-18adb7534e6.jpg) -Creation and manufacture of boards or panels using recycled polypropylene plastic and fishing nets recovered by Spanish fishermen. +Creation and manufacture of boards or panels using as raw material recycled polypropylene plastic and fishing nets recovered by fishermen from the coast of Spain. -This project is developed in collaboration with Vertidos Cero Association and AIMPLAS. +Learn more about creation and manufacture of products with this material here https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/products-made-from-marine-litter + + +This is a project developed jointly with Vertidos Cero Association and AIMPLAS. User Location: Gandia, Spain ## Steps ### Step 1: Mares Circulares -Mares Circulares, initiated in 2018, aims to clean the coasts, protected areas, and seabed of Spain and Portugal and promote material reuse. +Mares Circulares is a network project launched in 2018 with a triple objective: to clean up the coasts, protected areas and seabed of Spain and Portugal, promote recycling and boost the circular economy. -Approximately 5,200 kilograms (11,464 pounds) of debris, collected by volunteer fishermen, was processed. Non-PET plastic was sent to the Instituto Tecnológico de Plástico (AIMPLAS), where it was transformed into usable material. +We have used some 5,200 kilos of garbage caught by volunteer fishermen in their nets when the debris was floating in the water. + +The non-PET plastic was then sent to the Instituto Tecnológico de Plástico (AIMPLAS), whose technology was able to transform it into usable material through various processes. ![imagen_2023-09-28_121517007-18adb49217c.png](./imagen_2023-09-28_121517007-18adb49217c.png) @@ -36,11 +44,11 @@ Approximately 5,200 kilograms (11,464 pounds) of debris, collected by volunteer ### Step 2: Preparation of material -The processed marine litter and fishing nets arrive in our workshop clean and crushed, ready for the heat press. +The processed marine litter and fishing nets arrive in our workshop clean and crushed, ready to be used in the heat press. -We mix them with the base material (polypropylene), carefully considering the desired proportions and quantities to achieve the specific texture, color, or thickness needed. +We mix it with the base material (polypropylene) taking care about the desired proportions and quantities. It depends of texture/color we look for or thickness we need. -Before placing the plastic in the sheet press, we use an industrial dryer to remove moisture. +Before take the plastic on the sheetpress we use a kind of industrial dryer to remove moisture. ![WhatsApp Image 2022-06-08 at 3.47.35 PM - copia-18ab238efad.jpeg](./WhatsApp_Image_2022-06-08_at_3.47.35_PM_-_copia-18ab238efad.jpeg) @@ -53,13 +61,13 @@ Before placing the plastic in the sheet press, we use an industrial dryer to rem ### Step 3: Manufacture of boards -Once the material is dry and mixed, it can be taken to the sheet press. +After having the material dry and mixed it's ready to take it to sheetpress. -We adapted a carpentry press to include heating and automation systems for board production. +Our sheetpress has been the result of our own work, we reused a carpentry press and modified to include the entire heating and automation system. -Our sheet press can produce boards measuring 220cm x 90cm (86.6 inches x 35.4 inches) with thicknesses ranging from 1cm to 3cm (0.4 inches to 1.2 inches). +For the elaboration of boards this sheetpress allows us to manufacture boards of 220cm x 90cm and from 1cm to 3cm of thickness. -The machine operates at an average temperature of 180°C (356°F) to melt the plastic. +This machine reaches an average temperature of 180° centigrade to melt the plastic. ![CocaColaAIMPLASTyPlasticPreciosGL33-18ab239b54e.jpg](./CocaColaAIMPLASTyPlasticPreciosGL33-18ab239b54e.jpg) @@ -72,11 +80,11 @@ The machine operates at an average temperature of 180°C (356°F) to melt the pl ### Step 4: Final details -As with any plastic processing, excess material on the edges must be trimmed. +As with any plastic processing process, the resulting parts have a surplus on the edges that has to be removed. -After removing the board from the sheet press, it is important to store it in a large space to prevent deformation or bending. +When we take the board out of the sheetpress we must try to have a large space to store them without deforming or bending. -These boards can be used to create a variety of products, including decorative items and furniture. +With this type of boards we have the possibility to manufacture countless products, decorative, furniture and much more. ![CocaColaAIMPLASTyPlasticPreciosGL22-18b1dee06c7.jpg](./CocaColaAIMPLASTyPlasticPreciosGL22-18b1dee06c7.jpg) @@ -88,57 +96,4 @@ These boards can be used to create a variety of products, including decorative i ![119f7b3b-8e23-43d7-90d7-3c41eb0e-18b1dee72c3.jpg](./119f7b3b-8e23-43d7-90d7-3c41eb0e-18b1dee72c3.jpg) ## Resources -### Tools - -- Industrial dryer (moisture removal) -- Mixing equipment (material proportion control) -- Trimming tools (edge finishing) -- Storage racks (board stabilization) - -### Hardware & Machinery - -- Adapted carpentry press with heating/automation [AIMPLAS](https://www.aimplas.net/) -- Sheet press (220cm × 90cm capacity) -- Temperature control system (180°C operation) - -### Software - -- Automation software (press control) - -### Materials - -- Recycled polypropylene plastic ~~[Mares Circulares](https://www.marescirculares.com/)~~ -- Processed fishing nets [Vertidos Cero](https://www.vertidoscero.com/) - -### Partners - -- Vertidos Cero Association [Website](https://www.vertidoscero.com/) -- AIMPLAS [Website](https://www.aimplas.net/) -## References -Here is the list of references grouped by type: - -## Articles - -- [Breakthrough Technology Takes Plastic From the Ocean...](https://investors.coca-colacompany.com/news-events/press-releases/detail/971/breakthrough-technology-takes-plastic-from-the-ocean-and) -- [Valenciaport sponsors furniture made from marine waste](https://www.valenciaport.com/en/valenciaport-sponsors-the-furniture-made-by-aimplas-with-marine-residues/) -- [NetPlus® Recycled Fishing Nets](https://www.patagonia.com/our-footprint/netplus-recycled-fishing-nets.html) -- [MAELSTROM Project: Marine Litter Treatment](https://cordis.europa.eu/article/id/445680-a-mantra-for-treatment-of-plastic-in-our-oceans) - -## Papers - -- ~~[Recycling of Waste Polyethylene Fishing Nets as Fibre Reinforcement in Gypsum-based Materials](https://orbit.dtu.dk/files/278424474/Bertelsen_et_al_2022.pdf)~~ -- [Engineering Properties of Fibres from Waste Fishing Nets](http://www.circularocean.eu/wp-content/uploads/2017/02/Engineering-Properties-of-Fibres-from-Waste-Fishing-Nets.pdf) - -## YouTube - -- [Recycled Plastic Lumber Flow Molding](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jAlGgXAdq5A) -- [The Ultimate Guide to Make Perfect Plastic Sheets](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GEqPjhllYTY) - -## Opensource Designs - -- Products Made from Marine Litter - -## Guides/Reports - -- [Ecodesign Guide for Packaging (Ecoembes)](https://ecoembesempresas.com/app/uploads/2024/06/Ecodesign_guide_ENG.pdf) -- [AIMPLAS Marine Litter Recovery Guide](https://www.aimplas.net/technologies/recycling/recovery-marine-litter/) \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/boards-made-from-marine-litter/config.json b/howtos/boards-made-from-marine-litter/config.json index f2361edf2..3b38416e7 100644 --- a/howtos/boards-made-from-marine-litter/config.json +++ b/howtos/boards-made-from-marine-litter/config.json @@ -19,7 +19,7 @@ "src": "C:\\Users\\zx\\Desktop\\osr\\osr-machines\\howtos\\boards-made-from-marine-litter\\119f7b3b-8e23-43d7-90d7-3c41eb0e-18adb7534e6.jpg" }, "time": "< 1 week", - "description": "Creation and manufacture of boards or panels using recycled polypropylene plastic and fishing nets recovered by Spanish fishermen.\n\nThis project is developed in collaboration with Vertidos Cero Association and AIMPLAS.", + "description": "Creation and manufacture of boards or panels using as raw material recycled polypropylene plastic and fishing nets recovered by fishermen from the coast of Spain. \n\nLearn more about creation and manufacture of products with this material here https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/products-made-from-marine-litter\n\n\nThis is a project developed jointly with Vertidos Cero Association and AIMPLAS.", "steps": [ { "_animationKey": "uniqueqps7zc", @@ -62,7 +62,7 @@ "alt": "imagen_2023-09-28_121630081-18adb4a3ea8.png" } ], - "text": "Mares Circulares, initiated in 2018, aims to clean the coasts, protected areas, and seabed of Spain and Portugal and promote material reuse.\n\nApproximately 5,200 kilograms (11,464 pounds) of debris, collected by volunteer fishermen, was processed. Non-PET plastic was sent to the Instituto Tecnológico de Plástico (AIMPLAS), where it was transformed into usable material." + "text": "Mares Circulares is a network project launched in 2018 with a triple objective: to clean up the coasts, protected areas and seabed of Spain and Portugal, promote recycling and boost the circular economy.\n\nWe have used some 5,200 kilos of garbage caught by volunteer fishermen in their nets when the debris was floating in the water.\n\nThe non-PET plastic was then sent to the Instituto Tecnológico de Plástico (AIMPLAS), whose technology was able to transform it into usable material through various processes." }, { "_animationKey": "unique1", @@ -105,7 +105,7 @@ "alt": "CocaColaAIMPLASTyPlasticPreciosGL31-18ab23928c8.jpg" } ], - "text": "The processed marine litter and fishing nets arrive in our workshop clean and crushed, ready for the heat press.\n\nWe mix them with the base material (polypropylene), carefully considering the desired proportions and quantities to achieve the specific texture, color, or thickness needed.\n\nBefore placing the plastic in the sheet press, we use an industrial dryer to remove moisture." + "text": "The processed marine litter and fishing nets arrive in our workshop clean and crushed, ready to be used in the heat press. \n\nWe mix it with the base material (polypropylene) taking care about the desired proportions and quantities. It depends of texture/color we look for or thickness we need.\n\nBefore take the plastic on the sheetpress we use a kind of industrial dryer to remove moisture." }, { "images": [ @@ -147,12 +147,12 @@ } ], "_animationKey": "unique2", - "text": "Once the material is dry and mixed, it can be taken to the sheet press.\n\nWe adapted a carpentry press to include heating and automation systems for board production.\n\nOur sheet press can produce boards measuring 220cm x 90cm (86.6 inches x 35.4 inches) with thicknesses ranging from 1cm to 3cm (0.4 inches to 1.2 inches).\n\nThe machine operates at an average temperature of 180°C (356°F) to melt the plastic.", + "text": "After having the material dry and mixed it's ready to take it to sheetpress. \n\nOur sheetpress has been the result of our own work, we reused a carpentry press and modified to include the entire heating and automation system.\n\nFor the elaboration of boards this sheetpress allows us to manufacture boards of 220cm x 90cm and from 1cm to 3cm of thickness.\n\nThis machine reaches an average temperature of 180° centigrade to melt the plastic.", "title": "Manufacture of boards" }, { "title": "Final details", - "text": "As with any plastic processing, excess material on the edges must be trimmed.\n\nAfter removing the board from the sheet press, it is important to store it in a large space to prevent deformation or bending.\n\nThese boards can be used to create a variety of products, including decorative items and furniture.", + "text": "As with any plastic processing process, the resulting parts have a surplus on the edges that has to be removed.\n\nWhen we take the board out of the sheetpress we must try to have a large space to store them without deforming or bending.\n\nWith this type of boards we have the possibility to manufacture countless products, decorative, furniture and much more.", "_animationKey": "uniquekdi37f", "images": [ { @@ -383,9 +383,5 @@ "images": [] } }, - "content": "Creation and manufacture of boards or panels using recycled polypropylene plastic and fishing nets recovered by Spanish fishermen.\n\nThis project is developed in collaboration with Vertidos Cero Association and AIMPLAS.\n\n\nUser Location: Gandia, Spain\n\nMares Circulares, initiated in 2018, aims to clean the coasts, protected areas, and seabed of Spain and Portugal and promote material reuse.\n\nApproximately 5,200 kilograms (11,464 pounds) of debris, collected by volunteer fishermen, was processed. Non-PET plastic was sent to the Instituto Tecnológico de Plástico (AIMPLAS), where it was transformed into usable material.\n\nThe processed marine litter and fishing nets arrive in our workshop clean and crushed, ready for the heat press.\n\nWe mix them with the base material (polypropylene), carefully considering the desired proportions and quantities to achieve the specific texture, color, or thickness needed.\n\nBefore placing the plastic in the sheet press, we use an industrial dryer to remove moisture.\n\nOnce the material is dry and mixed, it can be taken to the sheet press.\n\nWe adapted a carpentry press to include heating and automation systems for board production.\n\nOur sheet press can produce boards measuring 220cm x 90cm (86.6 inches x 35.4 inches) with thicknesses ranging from 1cm to 3cm (0.4 inches to 1.2 inches).\n\nThe machine operates at an average temperature of 180°C (356°F) to melt the plastic.\n\nAs with any plastic processing, excess material on the edges must be trimmed.\n\nAfter removing the board from the sheet press, it is important to store it in a large space to prevent deformation or bending.\n\nThese boards can be used to create a variety of products, including decorative items and furniture.", - "keywords": "recycled polypropylene plastic, fishing nets recycling, eco-friendly boards, sustainable materials, AIMPLAS collaboration, Vertidos Cero project, Mares Circulares initiative, marine litter processing, Spanish fishermen collaboration, plastic sheet pressing", - "resources": "### Tools\n\n- Industrial dryer (moisture removal)\n- Mixing equipment (material proportion control)\n- Trimming tools (edge finishing)\n- Storage racks (board stabilization)\n\n### Hardware & Machinery\n\n- Adapted carpentry press with heating/automation [AIMPLAS](https://www.aimplas.net/)\n- Sheet press (220cm × 90cm capacity)\n- Temperature control system (180°C operation)\n\n### Software\n\n- Automation software (press control)\n\n### Materials\n\n- Recycled polypropylene plastic ~~[Mares Circulares](https://www.marescirculares.com/)~~\n- Processed fishing nets [Vertidos Cero](https://www.vertidoscero.com/)\n\n### Partners\n\n- Vertidos Cero Association [Website](https://www.vertidoscero.com/)\n- AIMPLAS [Website](https://www.aimplas.net/)", - "references": "Here is the list of references grouped by type:\n\n## Articles\n\n- [Breakthrough Technology Takes Plastic From the Ocean...](https://investors.coca-colacompany.com/news-events/press-releases/detail/971/breakthrough-technology-takes-plastic-from-the-ocean-and)\n- [Valenciaport sponsors furniture made from marine waste](https://www.valenciaport.com/en/valenciaport-sponsors-the-furniture-made-by-aimplas-with-marine-residues/)\n- [NetPlus® Recycled Fishing Nets](https://www.patagonia.com/our-footprint/netplus-recycled-fishing-nets.html)\n- [MAELSTROM Project: Marine Litter Treatment](https://cordis.europa.eu/article/id/445680-a-mantra-for-treatment-of-plastic-in-our-oceans)\n\n## Papers\n\n- ~~[Recycling of Waste Polyethylene Fishing Nets as Fibre Reinforcement in Gypsum-based Materials](https://orbit.dtu.dk/files/278424474/Bertelsen_et_al_2022.pdf)~~\n- [Engineering Properties of Fibres from Waste Fishing Nets](http://www.circularocean.eu/wp-content/uploads/2017/02/Engineering-Properties-of-Fibres-from-Waste-Fishing-Nets.pdf)\n\n## YouTube\n\n- [Recycled Plastic Lumber Flow Molding](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jAlGgXAdq5A)\n- [The Ultimate Guide to Make Perfect Plastic Sheets](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GEqPjhllYTY)\n\n## Opensource Designs\n\n- Products Made from Marine Litter\n\n## Guides/Reports\n\n- [Ecodesign Guide for Packaging (Ecoembes)](https://ecoembesempresas.com/app/uploads/2024/06/Ecodesign_guide_ENG.pdf)\n- [AIMPLAS Marine Litter Recovery Guide](https://www.aimplas.net/technologies/recycling/recovery-marine-litter/)", - "brief": "Eco-friendly boards made from recycled polypropylene and fishing nets. Collaborating with AIMPLAS and Vertidos Cero, promoting coastal cleanliness and material reuse." + "content": "Creation and manufacture of boards or panels using as raw material recycled polypropylene plastic and fishing nets recovered by fishermen from the coast of Spain. \n\nLearn more about creation and manufacture of products with this material here https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/products-made-from-marine-litter\n\n\nThis is a project developed jointly with Vertidos Cero Association and AIMPLAS.\n\n\nUser Location: Gandia, Spain\n\nMares Circulares is a network project launched in 2018 with a triple objective: to clean up the coasts, protected areas and seabed of Spain and Portugal, promote recycling and boost the circular economy.\n\nWe have used some 5,200 kilos of garbage caught by volunteer fishermen in their nets when the debris was floating in the water.\n\nThe non-PET plastic was then sent to the Instituto Tecnológico de Plástico (AIMPLAS), whose technology was able to transform it into usable material through various processes.\n\nThe processed marine litter and fishing nets arrive in our workshop clean and crushed, ready to be used in the heat press. \n\nWe mix it with the base material (polypropylene) taking care about the desired proportions and quantities. It depends of texture/color we look for or thickness we need.\n\nBefore take the plastic on the sheetpress we use a kind of industrial dryer to remove moisture.\n\nAfter having the material dry and mixed it's ready to take it to sheetpress. \n\nOur sheetpress has been the result of our own work, we reused a carpentry press and modified to include the entire heating and automation system.\n\nFor the elaboration of boards this sheetpress allows us to manufacture boards of 220cm x 90cm and from 1cm to 3cm of thickness.\n\nThis machine reaches an average temperature of 180° centigrade to melt the plastic.\n\nAs with any plastic processing process, the resulting parts have a surplus on the edges that has to be removed.\n\nWhen we take the board out of the sheetpress we must try to have a large space to store them without deforming or bending.\n\nWith this type of boards we have the possibility to manufacture countless products, decorative, furniture and much more." } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/broom-hanger-mould/README.md b/howtos/broom-hanger-mould/README.md index fa6f4cd00..e27453144 100644 --- a/howtos/broom-hanger-mould/README.md +++ b/howtos/broom-hanger-mould/README.md @@ -1,30 +1,33 @@ --- title: Broom hanger mould slug: broom-hanger-mould -description: A wall-mounted clamp for brooms and mops can be made by following these steps to create its mold for an injection machine. +description: A clamp to hang brooms and mops in the wall. Here are the steps to make its mold for the injection machine. tags: ["product","mould","injection"] category: Moulds difficulty: Hard time: < 1 week -keywords: wall-mounted clamp, broom hanger mold, injection machine mold, steel pipe nipple, aluminum block mold, male and female mold, flexible plastics injection, HDPE and PP materials, mold assembly instructions, industrial mold making +keywords: location: Bogota, Colombia --- # Broom hanger mould ![Broom hanger mould](howto-broom-hanger-16-3-18391cca845.jpg) -A wall-mounted clamp for brooms and mops can be made by following these steps to create its mold for an injection machine. +A clamp to hang brooms and mops in the wall. Here are the steps to make its mold for the injection machine. User Location: Bogota, Colombia ## Steps ### Step 1: Get your materials and prepare the work -Ensure all materials are prepared and carefully review the attached drawings and steps to fully understand the process, enhancing efficiency and accuracy. +Make sure you have all your materials ready and go through the attached drawings and steps to understand the full picture of the process. This will help you to work more efficiently and accurate. + ![howto-broomhanger-mould-11.jpg](./howto-broomhanger-mould-11.jpg) ### Step 2: Make the connection piece -Begin by cutting the steel pipe nipple (no. 7) in half to create the mold nozzle. Drill a hole in the center of the metal sheet (no. 8) to securely fit one half of the pipe nipple. Weld parts no. 7 and no. 8 together, and then chamfer the welded edge on the lathe. +With all the parts in the bag, let’s start cutting the steel pipe nipple (no. 7) in half to make the mold nozzle. +Get the metal sheet (no. 8) and turn a hole in the center with a diameter to fit one half of the steel pipe nipple in tightly. +Weld the parts no. 7 and no. 8 together. Then chamfer the welded edge on the lathe. (Drawings page 3-5) @@ -39,9 +42,9 @@ Begin by cutting the steel pipe nipple (no. 7) in half to create the mold nozzle ### Step 3: Make the female mold -Create the female mold by taking aluminum block no. 1 and drilling a hole that is 1 inch (2.54 cm) deep in the center of face A. Begin with smaller drill bits, gradually increasing to 1 inch (2.54 cm). Next, mill face B to create a channel 1 inch (2.54 cm) wide. Utilize a round point bit for a smoother finish. +Now we’ll make the female mold. Take the aluminium block (no. 1) and drill a 1” deep hole in the center of face A of the block. Start with smaller bits until you reach the inch. Then, mill face B to open a channel of 1” wide. Use a round point bit to get a better quality finish. -(Refer to drawings on page 6) +(Drawings page 6) ![howto-broom-hanger-4-1.jpg](./howto-broom-hanger-4-1.jpg) @@ -54,7 +57,7 @@ Create the female mold by taking aluminum block no. 1 and drilling a hole that i ### Step 4: Plastic entrance hole -Drill a 5 mm (0.2 in) hole through the center of the female mold. +For the plastic entrance, drill a 5mm hole through the center of your female mold. (Drawings page 6) @@ -63,9 +66,9 @@ Drill a 5 mm (0.2 in) hole through the center of the female mold. ### Step 5: Male mold part 1 -The male mold consists of three parts. Prepare aluminum parts 2, 3, and 5. Begin with the aluminum rod (part 5). Mill one side of the rod to a height of 3.17 mm (1/8 inch) and a width of 14.19 mm (9/16 inch). +The male mold is made of three parts. Get your aluminium parts no. 2, 3 and 5 ready and start with the aluminium rod (no. 5). Mill one side of the rod to a height of 3,17mm and a width of 14,19mm. -(Refer to drawings on page 7) +(Drawings page 7) ![howto-broom-hanger-7-1.jpg](./howto-broom-hanger-7-1.jpg) @@ -78,7 +81,9 @@ The male mold consists of three parts. Prepare aluminum parts 2, 3, and 5. Begin ### Step 6: Male mold part 2 -Take part no. 3 and mill one face at a 15° angle. Then mill the opposite face to a 15° angle until the narrow face measures 14.19 mm (0.56 inches) and the wider face measures 21 mm (0.83 inches), matching the face of part 5. Refer to drawings on page 7. +Now, get part no. 3 and mill one face on an angle of 15°. Then, mill the other face to an opposite angle of 15°, until the width of the narrow face matches the face of part 5 (see last image). That should be 14,19mm in the narrower face and 21mm in the wider face. + +(Drawings page 7) ![howto-broom-hanger-8-1.jpg](./howto-broom-hanger-8-1.jpg) @@ -91,7 +96,9 @@ Take part no. 3 and mill one face at a 15° angle. Then mill the opposite face t ### Step 7: Male mold assembly -To assemble the male mold, align the centers of the previous parts with part no. 2. Secure with clamps and drill two holes, 3/16 inch (4.76 mm) deep. On part no. 5, drill flat countersinks for screw no. 9 heads. Use button head screws, washers, and nuts (no. 9-11) to fasten the three parts. +To assemble the male mold, align the center of the previous parts with the center of part no. 2, press with clamps and drill two 3/16” deep holes. +On part no. 5, drill flat countersinks for the screws (no. 9) head. +Fix the three parts with the button head screws, washers and nuts (no. 9-11). (Drawings pages 8-9) @@ -106,20 +113,18 @@ To assemble the male mold, align the centers of the previous parts with part no. ### Step 8: Drill the conical guides holes -Align the female and male parts of the mold and secure them with a small press or locking pliers. Mark the hole positions from the drawings onto the face of part 2 and drill two holes with a 9.5mm (3/8 inch) diameter. Drill through part 2 and 1cm (0.39 inch) deep into part 1. +Align in place the female and the male parts of the mold and fix them with a small press or locking pliers. Apply the the hole positions from the drawings to the face of part no. 2 and drill two 9,5mm diameter holes. Drill through no. 2 and 1cm deep into no.1. -(Refer to drawings on page 10) +(Drawings page 10) ![howto-broom-hanger-10.jpg](./howto-broom-hanger-10.jpg) ### Step 9: Conical guides -### Tutorial Instructions +Turn your round metal bar (no. 6) to create the conical guides and saw a channel on one side to let the air flow out when inserting. With a vice or a hammer, insert the conical guides into part no.1. -Turn the round metal bar (no. 6) to create the conical guides. Saw a channel on one side to allow air flow during insertion. Using a vice or hammer, insert the conical guides into part no. 1. - -(Refer to drawings on page 11) +(Drawings page 11) ![howto-broom-hanger-11-2.jpg](./howto-broom-hanger-11-2.jpg) @@ -132,7 +137,8 @@ Turn the round metal bar (no. 6) to create the conical guides. Saw a channel on ### Step 10: Connect the mould -Fix the nozzle by securing the female and male parts with a small press or locking pliers, then drill four 9/32" (7 mm) holes at the corners of both parts. Close the mold and adjust the ends for an even surface between the male and female parts. +Fix the nozzle, the female and the male parts with a small press or locking pliers, and drill four 9/32” holes through the corners of both parts. +Close the mold and turn the ends to get an even surface between the male and the female parts. (Drawings page 12) @@ -144,9 +150,10 @@ Fix the nozzle by securing the female and male parts with a small press or locki ### Step 11: Make end caps -Secure each cap (no. 4) and drill four holes with a 5mm (3/16 inch) diameter through the cap, penetrating 25mm (1 inch) into both female and male mold parts. Tap each hole in the female and male sections with a ¼ inch thread. Enlarge the holes in the caps to ¼ inch and secure them with bolts (no. 12). +Fix each cap (no. 4) in place and drill four 5mm diameter holes. All through the cap and 25mm deep into the female and male mold parts. Tap each hole of the female and male parts with a ¼” thread. +On the caps, re-drill the holes up to ¼” and fix them with the bolts (no. 12). -(Refer to drawings on page 13) +(Drawings page 13) ![howto-broom-hanger-14-1.jpg](./howto-broom-hanger-14-1.jpg) @@ -159,18 +166,22 @@ Secure each cap (no. 4) and drill four holes with a 5mm (3/16 inch) diameter thr ### Step 12: Cut the sides for the closing screws -Final Step: Use a hand saw to cut two slots per side for easier bolt insertion and removal. Secure the mold with four bolts and butterfly nuts (size 13-14). +Final step! With the hand saw, cut slots (two per side) for the bolts to fit in and out more easily. For closing the mold, four bolts and butterfly nuts (no. 13-14) will be used. -Refer to Drawings on page 14. +(Drawings page 14) ![howto-broom-hanger-15.jpg](./howto-broom-hanger-15.jpg) ### Step 13: Mould done! -The broom hanger mold is complete and ready for injection. Flexible plastics such as HDPE and PP are recommended as they are less prone to cracking. +And you’re done! Here is your broom hanger mold, it's time to inject. +Flexible plastics like HDPE and PP work better for the broom hangers as they won't crack during use. + +To open the mold, us a flat screwdriver to pull apart the parts gently. To take out the plastic product, use the flat screwdriver or a putty knife to open and release it from the male mold. It's easier if you do this process when the plastic part is still hot, but remember to close it back to its original shape after releasing. + + -To open the mold, use a flat screwdriver to gently separate the parts. To remove the plastic product, use a flat screwdriver or putty knife to detach it from the male mold. It is advisable to perform this while the plastic is still warm, but ensure the mold is returned to its original shape afterward. ![howto-broom-hanger-16-1.jpg](./howto-broom-hanger-16-1.jpg) @@ -183,7 +194,8 @@ To open the mold, use a flat screwdriver to gently separate the parts. To remove ### Step 14: Happy hanging :) -To install the broom hanger, drill a hole in the wall, insert a wall plug, and secure it with a screw. +To install the broom hanger on the wall, drill a hole and fix it with a wall plug and a screw. + ![howto-broom-hanger-17-1.jpg](./howto-broom-hanger-17-1.jpg) @@ -195,55 +207,4 @@ To install the broom hanger, drill a hole in the wall, insert a wall plug, and s ![howto-broom-hanger-cover-18391cccc68.jpg](./howto-broom-hanger-cover-18391cccc68.jpg) ## Resources -### Tools - -- Drilling machine with various bits (5mm, 9.5mm, ¼") [Page 6, 10, 13] -- Lathe for chamfering welded edges [Page 3] -- Milling machine with round point bit [Page 6] -- Welding equipment for joining steel parts [Page 3] -- Tap set (¼" thread) [Page 13] - -### Hardware - -- Steel pipe nipple (no. 7) and metal sheet (no. 8) [Page 3] -- Aluminum blocks (no. 1, 2, 3) and rod (no. 5) [Page 6, 7] -- Screws, washers, nuts (no. 9-11) and bolts (no. 12-14) [Page 9, 13] -- Conical guides (no. 6) from round metal bar [Page 11] -- Caps (no. 4) for mold assembly [Page 13] - -### Software - -- None specified (technical drawings on pages 3–14 guide fabrication). - -### Materials - -- HDPE or PP plastic pellets for injection molding [Final Step]. -- Wall plugs and screws for installation [Final Step]. - -Technical drawings (pages 3–14) are critical for dimensional accuracy. Prioritize precision tools and alignment during assembly. -## References -## Articles - -- https://www.ace-mold.com/mold-clamps-injection-molding-a-comprehensive-guide/ -- https://www.boyiprototyping.com/injection-molding-guide/essential-guide-to-injection-molding-clamps-for-quality-mold/ -- https://www.nelsonnwalaska.com/injection-mold-frame-with-integral-clamping-ejector/ -- https://alleycho.com/clamping-system-introduction-in-injection-molding-machine/ -- https://formlabs.com/blog/diy-injection-molding/ -- https://www.amandaseghetti.com/diy-mop-broom-holder/ - -## Books - -- https://bearpondbooks.com/book/9781569905708 -- https://qecubete.files.wordpress.com/2014/07/injection-molding-handbook.pdf -- https://www.goodreads.com/book/show/4182553 -- https://www.prairielights.com/book/9781569908914 -- https://www.barnesandnoble.com/w/injection-mold-design-engineering-david-o-kazmer/1123852648 - -## Opensource Designs - -- https://www.printables.com/model/152557-gravity-broom-holder -- https://formlabs.com/blog/diy-injection-molding/ - -## Youtube - -- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QvLIaoaFQbc \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/broom-hanger-mould/config.json b/howtos/broom-hanger-mould/config.json index 3f4f8a9c0..1ad4577f3 100644 --- a/howtos/broom-hanger-mould/config.json +++ b/howtos/broom-hanger-mould/config.json @@ -8,7 +8,7 @@ "time": "< 1 week", "difficulty_level": "Hard", "id": "O5B7jPrcM7yIrIG4tvbO", - "description": "A wall-mounted clamp for brooms and mops can be made by following these steps to create its mold for an injection machine.", + "description": "A clamp to hang brooms and mops in the wall. Here are the steps to make its mold for the injection machine.", "title": "Broom hanger mould", "_deleted": false, "_contentModifiedTimestamp": "2023-01-18T16:50:52.103Z", @@ -55,7 +55,7 @@ "alt": "howto-broomhanger-mould-11.jpg" } ], - "text": "Ensure all materials are prepared and carefully review the attached drawings and steps to fully understand the process, enhancing efficiency and accuracy." + "text": "Make sure you have all your materials ready and go through the attached drawings and steps to understand the full picture of the process. This will help you to work more efficiently and accurate.\n" }, { "title": "Make the connection piece", @@ -99,11 +99,11 @@ ], "caption": "", "_animationKey": "unique2", - "text": "Begin by cutting the steel pipe nipple (no. 7) in half to create the mold nozzle. Drill a hole in the center of the metal sheet (no. 8) to securely fit one half of the pipe nipple. Weld parts no. 7 and no. 8 together, and then chamfer the welded edge on the lathe.\n\n(Drawings page 3-5)" + "text": "With all the parts in the bag, let’s start cutting the steel pipe nipple (no. 7) in half to make the mold nozzle.\nGet the metal sheet (no. 8) and turn a hole in the center with a diameter to fit one half of the steel pipe nipple in tightly.\nWeld the parts no. 7 and no. 8 together. Then chamfer the welded edge on the lathe.\n\n(Drawings page 3-5)" }, { "_animationKey": "unique3", - "text": "Create the female mold by taking aluminum block no. 1 and drilling a hole that is 1 inch (2.54 cm) deep in the center of face A. Begin with smaller drill bits, gradually increasing to 1 inch (2.54 cm). Next, mill face B to create a channel 1 inch (2.54 cm) wide. Utilize a round point bit for a smoother finish.\n\n(Refer to drawings on page 6)", + "text": "Now we’ll make the female mold. Take the aluminium block (no. 1) and drill a 1” deep hole in the center of face A of the block. Start with smaller bits until you reach the inch. Then, mill face B to open a channel of 1” wide. Use a round point bit to get a better quality finish. \n\n(Drawings page 6)", "images": [ { "name": "howto-broom-hanger-4-1.jpg", @@ -162,11 +162,11 @@ } ], "title": "Plastic entrance hole", - "text": "Drill a 5 mm (0.2 in) hole through the center of the female mold.\n\n(Drawings page 6)" + "text": "For the plastic entrance, drill a 5mm hole through the center of your female mold.\n\n(Drawings page 6)" }, { "title": "Male mold part 1", - "text": "The male mold consists of three parts. Prepare aluminum parts 2, 3, and 5. Begin with the aluminum rod (part 5). Mill one side of the rod to a height of 3.17 mm (1/8 inch) and a width of 14.19 mm (9/16 inch). \n\n(Refer to drawings on page 7)", + "text": "The male mold is made of three parts. Get your aluminium parts no. 2, 3 and 5 ready and start with the aluminium rod (no. 5). Mill one side of the rod to a height of 3,17mm and a width of 14,19mm. \n\n(Drawings page 7)", "images": [ { "size": 34278, @@ -248,11 +248,11 @@ ], "_animationKey": "uniquevf9sf55", "title": "Male mold part 2", - "text": "Take part no. 3 and mill one face at a 15° angle. Then mill the opposite face to a 15° angle until the narrow face measures 14.19 mm (0.56 inches) and the wider face measures 21 mm (0.83 inches), matching the face of part 5. Refer to drawings on page 7." + "text": "Now, get part no. 3 and mill one face on an angle of 15°. Then, mill the other face to an opposite angle of 15°, until the width of the narrow face matches the face of part 5 (see last image). That should be 14,19mm in the narrower face and 21mm in the wider face. \n\n(Drawings page 7)" }, { "_animationKey": "uniquedef22", - "text": "To assemble the male mold, align the centers of the previous parts with part no. 2. Secure with clamps and drill two holes, 3/16 inch (4.76 mm) deep. On part no. 5, drill flat countersinks for screw no. 9 heads. Use button head screws, washers, and nuts (no. 9-11) to fasten the three parts.\n\n(Drawings pages 8-9)", + "text": "To assemble the male mold, align the center of the previous parts with the center of part no. 2, press with clamps and drill two 3/16” deep holes. \nOn part no. 5, drill flat countersinks for the screws (no. 9) head.\nFix the three parts with the button head screws, washers and nuts (no. 9-11). \n\n(Drawings pages 8-9)", "title": "Male mold assembly", "images": [ { @@ -308,13 +308,13 @@ "alt": "howto-broom-hanger-10.jpg" } ], - "text": "Align the female and male parts of the mold and secure them with a small press or locking pliers. Mark the hole positions from the drawings onto the face of part 2 and drill two holes with a 9.5mm (3/8 inch) diameter. Drill through part 2 and 1cm (0.39 inch) deep into part 1.\n\n(Refer to drawings on page 10)", + "text": "Align in place the female and the male parts of the mold and fix them with a small press or locking pliers. Apply the the hole positions from the drawings to the face of part no. 2 and drill two 9,5mm diameter holes. Drill through no. 2 and 1cm deep into no.1.\n\n(Drawings page 10)", "title": "Drill the conical guides holes", "_animationKey": "uniqueha6d3j" }, { "title": "Conical guides", - "text": "### Tutorial Instructions\n\nTurn the round metal bar (no. 6) to create the conical guides. Saw a channel on one side to allow air flow during insertion. Using a vice or hammer, insert the conical guides into part no. 1. \n\n(Refer to drawings on page 11)", + "text": "Turn your round metal bar (no. 6) to create the conical guides and saw a channel on one side to let the air flow out when inserting. With a vice or a hammer, insert the conical guides into part no.1. \n\n(Drawings page 11)", "_animationKey": "uniques273m", "images": [ { @@ -357,7 +357,7 @@ }, { "_animationKey": "uniquekl4la8", - "text": "Fix the nozzle by securing the female and male parts with a small press or locking pliers, then drill four 9/32\" (7 mm) holes at the corners of both parts. Close the mold and adjust the ends for an even surface between the male and female parts.\n\n(Drawings page 12)", + "text": "Fix the nozzle, the female and the male parts with a small press or locking pliers, and drill four 9/32” holes through the corners of both parts.\nClose the mold and turn the ends to get an even surface between the male and the female parts. \n\n(Drawings page 12)", "title": "Connect the mould", "images": [ { @@ -388,7 +388,7 @@ }, { "_animationKey": "uniquel2pxx", - "text": "Secure each cap (no. 4) and drill four holes with a 5mm (3/16 inch) diameter through the cap, penetrating 25mm (1 inch) into both female and male mold parts. Tap each hole in the female and male sections with a ¼ inch thread. Enlarge the holes in the caps to ¼ inch and secure them with bolts (no. 12).\n\n(Refer to drawings on page 13)", + "text": "Fix each cap (no. 4) in place and drill four 5mm diameter holes. All through the cap and 25mm deep into the female and male mold parts. Tap each hole of the female and male parts with a ¼” thread.\nOn the caps, re-drill the holes up to ¼” and fix them with the bolts (no. 12).\n\n(Drawings page 13)", "title": "Make end caps", "images": [ { @@ -446,7 +446,7 @@ } ], "title": "Cut the sides for the closing screws", - "text": "Final Step: Use a hand saw to cut two slots per side for easier bolt insertion and removal. Secure the mold with four bolts and butterfly nuts (size 13-14).\n\nRefer to Drawings on page 14." + "text": "Final step! With the hand saw, cut slots (two per side) for the bolts to fit in and out more easily. For closing the mold, four bolts and butterfly nuts (no. 13-14) will be used.\n\n(Drawings page 14)" }, { "_animationKey": "unique5sys2s", @@ -489,10 +489,10 @@ "alt": "howto-broom-hanger-16-3.jpg" } ], - "text": "The broom hanger mold is complete and ready for injection. Flexible plastics such as HDPE and PP are recommended as they are less prone to cracking.\n\nTo open the mold, use a flat screwdriver to gently separate the parts. To remove the plastic product, use a flat screwdriver or putty knife to detach it from the male mold. It is advisable to perform this while the plastic is still warm, but ensure the mold is returned to its original shape afterward." + "text": "And you’re done! Here is your broom hanger mold, it's time to inject.\nFlexible plastics like HDPE and PP work better for the broom hangers as they won't crack during use. \n\nTo open the mold, us a flat screwdriver to pull apart the parts gently. To take out the plastic product, use the flat screwdriver or a putty knife to open and release it from the male mold. It's easier if you do this process when the plastic part is still hot, but remember to close it back to its original shape after releasing.\n\n\n" }, { - "text": "To install the broom hanger, drill a hole in the wall, insert a wall plug, and secure it with a screw.", + "text": "To install the broom hanger on the wall, drill a hole and fix it with a wall plug and a screw.\n", "_animationKey": "uniquejwu0ig", "title": "Happy hanging :)", "images": [ @@ -698,9 +698,5 @@ "urls": [] } }, - "content": "A wall-mounted clamp for brooms and mops can be made by following these steps to create its mold for an injection machine.\n\n\nUser Location: Bogota, Colombia\n\nEnsure all materials are prepared and carefully review the attached drawings and steps to fully understand the process, enhancing efficiency and accuracy.\n\nBegin by cutting the steel pipe nipple (no. 7) in half to create the mold nozzle. Drill a hole in the center of the metal sheet (no. 8) to securely fit one half of the pipe nipple. Weld parts no. 7 and no. 8 together, and then chamfer the welded edge on the lathe.\n\n(Drawings page 3-5)\n\nCreate the female mold by taking aluminum block no. 1 and drilling a hole that is 1 inch (2.54 cm) deep in the center of face A. Begin with smaller drill bits, gradually increasing to 1 inch (2.54 cm). Next, mill face B to create a channel 1 inch (2.54 cm) wide. Utilize a round point bit for a smoother finish.\n\n(Refer to drawings on page 6)\n\nDrill a 5 mm (0.2 in) hole through the center of the female mold.\n\n(Drawings page 6)\n\nThe male mold consists of three parts. Prepare aluminum parts 2, 3, and 5. Begin with the aluminum rod (part 5). Mill one side of the rod to a height of 3.17 mm (1/8 inch) and a width of 14.19 mm (9/16 inch). \n\n(Refer to drawings on page 7)\n\nTake part no. 3 and mill one face at a 15° angle. Then mill the opposite face to a 15° angle until the narrow face measures 14.19 mm (0.56 inches) and the wider face measures 21 mm (0.83 inches), matching the face of part 5. Refer to drawings on page 7.\n\nTo assemble the male mold, align the centers of the previous parts with part no. 2. Secure with clamps and drill two holes, 3/16 inch (4.76 mm) deep. On part no. 5, drill flat countersinks for screw no. 9 heads. Use button head screws, washers, and nuts (no. 9-11) to fasten the three parts.\n\n(Drawings pages 8-9)\n\nAlign the female and male parts of the mold and secure them with a small press or locking pliers. Mark the hole positions from the drawings onto the face of part 2 and drill two holes with a 9.5mm (3/8 inch) diameter. Drill through part 2 and 1cm (0.39 inch) deep into part 1.\n\n(Refer to drawings on page 10)\n\n### Tutorial Instructions\n\nTurn the round metal bar (no. 6) to create the conical guides. Saw a channel on one side to allow air flow during insertion. Using a vice or hammer, insert the conical guides into part no. 1. \n\n(Refer to drawings on page 11)\n\nFix the nozzle by securing the female and male parts with a small press or locking pliers, then drill four 9/32\" (7 mm) holes at the corners of both parts. Close the mold and adjust the ends for an even surface between the male and female parts.\n\n(Drawings page 12)\n\nSecure each cap (no. 4) and drill four holes with a 5mm (3/16 inch) diameter through the cap, penetrating 25mm (1 inch) into both female and male mold parts. Tap each hole in the female and male sections with a ¼ inch thread. Enlarge the holes in the caps to ¼ inch and secure them with bolts (no. 12).\n\n(Refer to drawings on page 13)\n\nFinal Step: Use a hand saw to cut two slots per side for easier bolt insertion and removal. Secure the mold with four bolts and butterfly nuts (size 13-14).\n\nRefer to Drawings on page 14.\n\nThe broom hanger mold is complete and ready for injection. Flexible plastics such as HDPE and PP are recommended as they are less prone to cracking.\n\nTo open the mold, use a flat screwdriver to gently separate the parts. To remove the plastic product, use a flat screwdriver or putty knife to detach it from the male mold. It is advisable to perform this while the plastic is still warm, but ensure the mold is returned to its original shape afterward.\n\nTo install the broom hanger, drill a hole in the wall, insert a wall plug, and secure it with a screw.", - "keywords": "wall-mounted clamp, broom hanger mold, injection machine mold, steel pipe nipple, aluminum block mold, male and female mold, flexible plastics injection, HDPE and PP materials, mold assembly instructions, industrial mold making", - "resources": "### Tools\n\n- Drilling machine with various bits (5mm, 9.5mm, ¼\") [Page 6, 10, 13]\n- Lathe for chamfering welded edges [Page 3]\n- Milling machine with round point bit [Page 6]\n- Welding equipment for joining steel parts [Page 3]\n- Tap set (¼\" thread) [Page 13]\n\n### Hardware\n\n- Steel pipe nipple (no. 7) and metal sheet (no. 8) [Page 3]\n- Aluminum blocks (no. 1, 2, 3) and rod (no. 5) [Page 6, 7]\n- Screws, washers, nuts (no. 9-11) and bolts (no. 12-14) [Page 9, 13]\n- Conical guides (no. 6) from round metal bar [Page 11]\n- Caps (no. 4) for mold assembly [Page 13]\n\n### Software\n\n- None specified (technical drawings on pages 3–14 guide fabrication).\n\n### Materials\n\n- HDPE or PP plastic pellets for injection molding [Final Step].\n- Wall plugs and screws for installation [Final Step].\n\nTechnical drawings (pages 3–14) are critical for dimensional accuracy. Prioritize precision tools and alignment during assembly.", - "references": "## Articles\n\n- https://www.ace-mold.com/mold-clamps-injection-molding-a-comprehensive-guide/\n- https://www.boyiprototyping.com/injection-molding-guide/essential-guide-to-injection-molding-clamps-for-quality-mold/\n- https://www.nelsonnwalaska.com/injection-mold-frame-with-integral-clamping-ejector/\n- https://alleycho.com/clamping-system-introduction-in-injection-molding-machine/\n- https://formlabs.com/blog/diy-injection-molding/\n- https://www.amandaseghetti.com/diy-mop-broom-holder/\n\n## Books\n\n- https://bearpondbooks.com/book/9781569905708\n- https://qecubete.files.wordpress.com/2014/07/injection-molding-handbook.pdf\n- https://www.goodreads.com/book/show/4182553\n- https://www.prairielights.com/book/9781569908914\n- https://www.barnesandnoble.com/w/injection-mold-design-engineering-david-o-kazmer/1123852648\n\n## Opensource Designs\n\n- https://www.printables.com/model/152557-gravity-broom-holder\n- https://formlabs.com/blog/diy-injection-molding/\n\n## Youtube\n\n- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QvLIaoaFQbc", - "brief": "Craft a wall-mounted broom and mop clamp mold with detailed steps for efficiency. Use flexible plastics like HDPE and PP for durability." + "content": "A clamp to hang brooms and mops in the wall. Here are the steps to make its mold for the injection machine.\n\n\nUser Location: Bogota, Colombia\n\nMake sure you have all your materials ready and go through the attached drawings and steps to understand the full picture of the process. This will help you to work more efficiently and accurate.\n\n\nWith all the parts in the bag, let’s start cutting the steel pipe nipple (no. 7) in half to make the mold nozzle.\nGet the metal sheet (no. 8) and turn a hole in the center with a diameter to fit one half of the steel pipe nipple in tightly.\nWeld the parts no. 7 and no. 8 together. Then chamfer the welded edge on the lathe.\n\n(Drawings page 3-5)\n\nNow we’ll make the female mold. Take the aluminium block (no. 1) and drill a 1” deep hole in the center of face A of the block. Start with smaller bits until you reach the inch. Then, mill face B to open a channel of 1” wide. Use a round point bit to get a better quality finish. \n\n(Drawings page 6)\n\nFor the plastic entrance, drill a 5mm hole through the center of your female mold.\n\n(Drawings page 6)\n\nThe male mold is made of three parts. Get your aluminium parts no. 2, 3 and 5 ready and start with the aluminium rod (no. 5). Mill one side of the rod to a height of 3,17mm and a width of 14,19mm. \n\n(Drawings page 7)\n\nNow, get part no. 3 and mill one face on an angle of 15°. Then, mill the other face to an opposite angle of 15°, until the width of the narrow face matches the face of part 5 (see last image). That should be 14,19mm in the narrower face and 21mm in the wider face. \n\n(Drawings page 7)\n\nTo assemble the male mold, align the center of the previous parts with the center of part no. 2, press with clamps and drill two 3/16” deep holes. \nOn part no. 5, drill flat countersinks for the screws (no. 9) head.\nFix the three parts with the button head screws, washers and nuts (no. 9-11). \n\n(Drawings pages 8-9)\n\nAlign in place the female and the male parts of the mold and fix them with a small press or locking pliers. Apply the the hole positions from the drawings to the face of part no. 2 and drill two 9,5mm diameter holes. Drill through no. 2 and 1cm deep into no.1.\n\n(Drawings page 10)\n\nTurn your round metal bar (no. 6) to create the conical guides and saw a channel on one side to let the air flow out when inserting. With a vice or a hammer, insert the conical guides into part no.1. \n\n(Drawings page 11)\n\nFix the nozzle, the female and the male parts with a small press or locking pliers, and drill four 9/32” holes through the corners of both parts.\nClose the mold and turn the ends to get an even surface between the male and the female parts. \n\n(Drawings page 12)\n\nFix each cap (no. 4) in place and drill four 5mm diameter holes. All through the cap and 25mm deep into the female and male mold parts. Tap each hole of the female and male parts with a ¼” thread.\nOn the caps, re-drill the holes up to ¼” and fix them with the bolts (no. 12).\n\n(Drawings page 13)\n\nFinal step! With the hand saw, cut slots (two per side) for the bolts to fit in and out more easily. For closing the mold, four bolts and butterfly nuts (no. 13-14) will be used.\n\n(Drawings page 14)\n\nAnd you’re done! Here is your broom hanger mold, it's time to inject.\nFlexible plastics like HDPE and PP work better for the broom hangers as they won't crack during use. \n\nTo open the mold, us a flat screwdriver to pull apart the parts gently. To take out the plastic product, use the flat screwdriver or a putty knife to open and release it from the male mold. It's easier if you do this process when the plastic part is still hot, but remember to close it back to its original shape after releasing.\n\n\n\n\nTo install the broom hanger on the wall, drill a hole and fix it with a wall plug and a screw.\n" } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/build-a-bicycle-powered-shredder/README.md b/howtos/build-a-bicycle-powered-shredder/README.md index 0422cc872..4ee8673ba 100644 --- a/howtos/build-a-bicycle-powered-shredder/README.md +++ b/howtos/build-a-bicycle-powered-shredder/README.md @@ -1,45 +1,43 @@ --- title: Build a bicycle powered shredder! slug: build-a-bicycle-powered-shredder -description: ### Tutorial: Constructing a Bicycle-Powered Plastic Shredder +description: In this How-to, you will learn how we constructed our bicycle powered plastic shredder, and how you can built your own! Not only does it give you a relatively cheap way to shred plastic at zero operating costs, but it also gives you freedom from the electrical grid, all while keeping you fit and healthy! -This guide outlines the construction of a bicycle-powered plastic shredder and provides instructions for building your own. The device offers a cost-effective method of shredding plastic without relying on electricity. - -**Step 1**: Find detailed construction plans and necessary files. +In step 1 you will find a detailed construction plan and all the files necessary. tags: ["collection","shredder","HDPE"] category: uncategorized difficulty: Hard time: 3-4 weeks -keywords: bicycle-powered plastic shredder, DIY plastic shredder, build plastic shredder, construct bicycle shredder, cost-effective plastic shredding, manual plastic shredding, plastic shredder instructions, shredder construction plans, plastic recycling tools, non-electric shredder +keywords: location: --- # Build a bicycle powered shredder! ![Build a bicycle powered shredder!](COVER_PHOTO.png) -### Tutorial: Constructing a Bicycle-Powered Plastic Shredder +In this How-to, you will learn how we constructed our bicycle powered plastic shredder, and how you can built your own! Not only does it give you a relatively cheap way to shred plastic at zero operating costs, but it also gives you freedom from the electrical grid, all while keeping you fit and healthy! -This guide outlines the construction of a bicycle-powered plastic shredder and provides instructions for building your own. The device offers a cost-effective method of shredding plastic without relying on electricity. - -**Step 1**: Find detailed construction plans and necessary files. +In step 1 you will find a detailed construction plan and all the files necessary. ## Steps ### Step 1: Open the construction manual -Via this link: [drive.google.com](https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1m8Bq35N_N-nw5llw7T16WAWR9GLb5i_L?usp=sharing), you can access a detailed construction plan, bill of materials, technical drawings, and laser cutting files required to build a bicycle-powered shredder. +Via this link: drive.google.com: drive.google.com/drive/folders/1m8Bq35N_N-nw5llw7T16WAWR9GLb5i_L?usp=sharing , you can find a very detailed construction plan and bill of materials, along with technical drawings, laser cutting files and more. This should be more than enough for you to build your own bicycle powered shredder :) + + +We could not use the supporting files tab, since our files exceeded the maximum file size amount. -Note: The files exceed the maximum allowed size for the supporting files tab. ![CONSTRUCTION MANUAL.png](./CONSTRUCTION_MANUAL.png) ### Step 2: Built or buy the shredder box -The plans for constructing a shredder box are detailed. You can also purchase one. +Precious Plastics has very detailed plans on how to built a shredder box. On the Precious Plastics Bazar you can also buy one. ![Best-of-bike-shredder-15.jpg](./Best-of-bike-shredder-15.jpg) ### Step 3: Built the custom axle -This custom flywheel and axle generate momentum for shredding. It also serves as a base for connecting the gears discussed in step 5. Cutting files and technical drawings are available in the files in step 1. +With this custom flywheel and axle, you can create forward momentum to shred the plastic. The flywheel will also provide a perfect base to connect the gears talked about in step 5. All the cutting files and the technical drawings can be found in the files in step 1. ![Production-43.jpg](./Production-43.jpg) @@ -49,7 +47,7 @@ This custom flywheel and axle generate momentum for shredding. It also serves as ### Step 4: Shredder stand and container -Construct the shredder stand to provide an elevated platform for the shredded pieces to exit and to ensure safety. Our construction plan outlines potential optimizations based on issues we encountered. +Built the shredder stand, which will provide a raised platform for the shredded pieces to fall out, and for safety reasons. In the construction plan we explained how you could optimise this stand, since we encountered some problems with ours. ![Production-23.jpg](./Production-23.jpg) @@ -59,7 +57,7 @@ Construct the shredder stand to provide an elevated platform for the shredded pi ### Step 5: Attaching everything together -The power output is amplified through two ratio transmissions totaling 1:4.6, resulting in 4.6 times more power at a reduced rotational speed. A large gear connects to the shredder box, and a substantial crankset is attached to the custom flywheel. +We tried to maxime the power output, through two ratio transmissions, which come to a total of 1:4.6. This will deliver 4.6 more power at the expense of lower rotational speed. A large gear is attached to shredder box and a large crankset is attached to the custom flywheel. ![transmission 2.png](./transmission_2.png) @@ -69,30 +67,12 @@ The power output is amplified through two ratio transmissions totaling 1:4.6, re ### Step 6: Let's start shredding plastic! -### Shredding Process +Now with the finished result, let's start shredding some plastic! and lose a few pounds along the way :) + -With the final setup complete, begin shredding the plastic. ![let's start shredding plastic.png](./lets_start_shredding_plastic.png) ## Resources -### Software Requirements - -- Construction plans, bill of materials, and laser cutting files: [drive.google.com](https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1m8Bq35N_N-nw5llw7T16WAWR9GLb5i_L?usp=sharing) - -### Hardware Components - -- Shredder box (detailed construction plans) -- Custom flywheel and axle (technical drawings included) -- Shredder stand (optimized for safety and output) -- Gear system (1:4.6 ratio transmission) -- Large crankset (attached to flywheel) - -### Tools - -- Laser cutter (for fabricating components from cutting files) -## References -## Open-source Designs - -- [Bicycle-Powered Plastic Shredder Construction Files](https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1m8Bq35N_N-nw5llw7T16WAWR9GLb5i_L?usp=sharing) \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/build-a-bicycle-powered-shredder/config.json b/howtos/build-a-bicycle-powered-shredder/config.json index c62e3297e..0f6710140 100644 --- a/howtos/build-a-bicycle-powered-shredder/config.json +++ b/howtos/build-a-bicycle-powered-shredder/config.json @@ -2,7 +2,7 @@ "total_downloads": 115, "_contentModifiedTimestamp": "2023-06-14T11:02:16.981Z", "_createdBy": "jamil", - "description": "### Tutorial: Constructing a Bicycle-Powered Plastic Shredder\n\nThis guide outlines the construction of a bicycle-powered plastic shredder and provides instructions for building your own. The device offers a cost-effective method of shredding plastic without relying on electricity.\n\n**Step 1**: Find detailed construction plans and necessary files.", + "description": "In this How-to, you will learn how we constructed our bicycle powered plastic shredder, and how you can built your own! Not only does it give you a relatively cheap way to shred plastic at zero operating costs, but it also gives you freedom from the electrical grid, all while keeping you fit and healthy!\n\nIn step 1 you will find a detailed construction plan and all the files necessary. ", "files": [], "votedUsefulBy": [ "mavigogun", @@ -34,7 +34,7 @@ "_modified": "2024-02-12T13:47:11.059Z", "steps": [ { - "text": "Via this link: [drive.google.com](https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1m8Bq35N_N-nw5llw7T16WAWR9GLb5i_L?usp=sharing), you can access a detailed construction plan, bill of materials, technical drawings, and laser cutting files required to build a bicycle-powered shredder.\n\nNote: The files exceed the maximum allowed size for the supporting files tab.", + "text": "Via this link: drive.google.com: drive.google.com/drive/folders/1m8Bq35N_N-nw5llw7T16WAWR9GLb5i_L?usp=sharing , you can find a very detailed construction plan and bill of materials, along with technical drawings, laser cutting files and more. This should be more than enough for you to build your own bicycle powered shredder :) \n\n\nWe could not use the supporting files tab, since our files exceeded the maximum file size amount.\n", "title": "Open the construction manual", "images": [ { @@ -69,11 +69,11 @@ } ], "title": "Built or buy the shredder box", - "text": "The plans for constructing a shredder box are detailed. You can also purchase one." + "text": "Precious Plastics has very detailed plans on how to built a shredder box. On the Precious Plastics Bazar you can also buy one. " }, { "title": "Built the custom axle ", - "text": "This custom flywheel and axle generate momentum for shredding. It also serves as a base for connecting the gears discussed in step 5. Cutting files and technical drawings are available in the files in step 1.", + "text": "With this custom flywheel and axle, you can create forward momentum to shred the plastic. The flywheel will also provide a perfect base to connect the gears talked about in step 5. All the cutting files and the technical drawings can be found in the files in step 1. ", "_animationKey": "unique3", "images": [ { @@ -130,7 +130,7 @@ "alt": "Production-44.jpg" } ], - "text": "Construct the shredder stand to provide an elevated platform for the shredded pieces to exit and to ensure safety. Our construction plan outlines potential optimizations based on issues we encountered.", + "text": "Built the shredder stand, which will provide a raised platform for the shredded pieces to fall out, and for safety reasons. In the construction plan we explained how you could optimise this stand, since we encountered some problems with ours. ", "title": "Shredder stand and container" }, { @@ -161,11 +161,11 @@ } ], "_animationKey": "uniquekw9hvb", - "text": "The power output is amplified through two ratio transmissions totaling 1:4.6, resulting in 4.6 times more power at a reduced rotational speed. A large gear connects to the shredder box, and a substantial crankset is attached to the custom flywheel.", + "text": "We tried to maxime the power output, through two ratio transmissions, which come to a total of 1:4.6. This will deliver 4.6 more power at the expense of lower rotational speed. A large gear is attached to shredder box and a large crankset is attached to the custom flywheel. ", "title": "Attaching everything together" }, { - "text": "### Shredding Process\n\nWith the final setup complete, begin shredding the plastic.", + "text": "Now with the finished result, let's start shredding some plastic! and lose a few pounds along the way :)\n\n", "_animationKey": "uniquewag8jr", "images": [ { @@ -261,9 +261,5 @@ "category": { "label": "uncategorized" }, - "content": "### Tutorial: Constructing a Bicycle-Powered Plastic Shredder\n\nThis guide outlines the construction of a bicycle-powered plastic shredder and provides instructions for building your own. The device offers a cost-effective method of shredding plastic without relying on electricity.\n\n**Step 1**: Find detailed construction plans and necessary files.\n\nVia this link: [drive.google.com](https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1m8Bq35N_N-nw5llw7T16WAWR9GLb5i_L?usp=sharing), you can access a detailed construction plan, bill of materials, technical drawings, and laser cutting files required to build a bicycle-powered shredder.\n\nNote: The files exceed the maximum allowed size for the supporting files tab.\n\nThe plans for constructing a shredder box are detailed. You can also purchase one.\n\nThis custom flywheel and axle generate momentum for shredding. It also serves as a base for connecting the gears discussed in step 5. Cutting files and technical drawings are available in the files in step 1.\n\nConstruct the shredder stand to provide an elevated platform for the shredded pieces to exit and to ensure safety. Our construction plan outlines potential optimizations based on issues we encountered.\n\nThe power output is amplified through two ratio transmissions totaling 1:4.6, resulting in 4.6 times more power at a reduced rotational speed. A large gear connects to the shredder box, and a substantial crankset is attached to the custom flywheel.\n\n### Shredding Process\n\nWith the final setup complete, begin shredding the plastic.", - "keywords": "bicycle-powered plastic shredder, DIY plastic shredder, build plastic shredder, construct bicycle shredder, cost-effective plastic shredding, manual plastic shredding, plastic shredder instructions, shredder construction plans, plastic recycling tools, non-electric shredder", - "resources": "### Software Requirements\n\n- Construction plans, bill of materials, and laser cutting files: [drive.google.com](https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1m8Bq35N_N-nw5llw7T16WAWR9GLb5i_L?usp=sharing)\n\n### Hardware Components\n\n- Shredder box (detailed construction plans)\n- Custom flywheel and axle (technical drawings included)\n- Shredder stand (optimized for safety and output)\n- Gear system (1:4.6 ratio transmission)\n- Large crankset (attached to flywheel)\n\n### Tools\n\n- Laser cutter (for fabricating components from cutting files)", - "references": "## Open-source Designs\n\n- [Bicycle-Powered Plastic Shredder Construction Files](https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1m8Bq35N_N-nw5llw7T16WAWR9GLb5i_L?usp=sharing)", - "brief": "Build a bicycle-powered plastic shredder with our step-by-step guide. This eco-friendly solution offers an efficient, electricity-free method to shred plastic." + "content": "In this How-to, you will learn how we constructed our bicycle powered plastic shredder, and how you can built your own! Not only does it give you a relatively cheap way to shred plastic at zero operating costs, but it also gives you freedom from the electrical grid, all while keeping you fit and healthy!\n\nIn step 1 you will find a detailed construction plan and all the files necessary. \n\nVia this link: drive.google.com: drive.google.com/drive/folders/1m8Bq35N_N-nw5llw7T16WAWR9GLb5i_L?usp=sharing , you can find a very detailed construction plan and bill of materials, along with technical drawings, laser cutting files and more. This should be more than enough for you to build your own bicycle powered shredder :) \n\n\nWe could not use the supporting files tab, since our files exceeded the maximum file size amount.\n\n\nPrecious Plastics has very detailed plans on how to built a shredder box. On the Precious Plastics Bazar you can also buy one. \n\nWith this custom flywheel and axle, you can create forward momentum to shred the plastic. The flywheel will also provide a perfect base to connect the gears talked about in step 5. All the cutting files and the technical drawings can be found in the files in step 1. \n\nBuilt the shredder stand, which will provide a raised platform for the shredded pieces to fall out, and for safety reasons. In the construction plan we explained how you could optimise this stand, since we encountered some problems with ours. \n\nWe tried to maxime the power output, through two ratio transmissions, which come to a total of 1:4.6. This will deliver 4.6 more power at the expense of lower rotational speed. A large gear is attached to shredder box and a large crankset is attached to the custom flywheel. \n\nNow with the finished result, let's start shredding some plastic! and lose a few pounds along the way :)\n\n" } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/build-a-fishing-canoe/README.md b/howtos/build-a-fishing-canoe/README.md index 7532e22f1..9ea6cc638 100644 --- a/howtos/build-a-fishing-canoe/README.md +++ b/howtos/build-a-fishing-canoe/README.md @@ -1,35 +1,41 @@ --- title: Build a Fishing Canoe slug: build-a-fishing-canoe -description: At the Flipflopi Project, we initiated a unique boat-building course, utilizing waste plastic as the primary construction material. As a practical project, students constructed a local fishing dhow, "Dau la Mwao," a common vessel suitable for a short course. +description: YAP YAP! +At the Flipflopi Project we piloted a first of its kind heritage boat building course, using waste plastic as the major construction material. As a major practical project the students built a local fishing dhow “Dau la Mwao” which is a very commonly used vessel and a doable size for a short boat building course. -This tutorial outlines the process and insights gained. +This how-to shows the process and learnings we made along the way ⛵️ tags: ["product","HDPE"] category: uncategorized difficulty: Hard time: 1+ months -keywords: Flipflopi Project, boat-building course, waste plastic, fishing dhow, unique construction, traditional methods, HDPE plastic, CAD molds, extrusion process, boat fabrication +keywords: location: Lamu, Kenya --- # Build a Fishing Canoe ![Build a Fishing Canoe](Screenshot_2023-03-09_at_14.58.35-186c63cfa30.png) -At the Flipflopi Project, we initiated a unique boat-building course, utilizing waste plastic as the primary construction material. As a practical project, students constructed a local fishing dhow, "Dau la Mwao," a common vessel suitable for a short course. +YAP YAP! +At the Flipflopi Project we piloted a first of its kind heritage boat building course, using waste plastic as the major construction material. As a major practical project the students built a local fishing dhow “Dau la Mwao” which is a very commonly used vessel and a doable size for a short boat building course. -This tutorial outlines the process and insights gained. +This how-to shows the process and learnings we made along the way ⛵️ User Location: Lamu, Kenya ## Steps ### Step 1: First things first -First, observe the entire process to gain an understanding. +First sit back and watch the full process so you can get an idea :) -Boatbuilding requires practice and experience, but with this video and the accompanying steps, you can potentially build your own. +Boatbuilding is a skill that needs a lot of practice and experience, but with this video and the following how-to steps, you might actually be able to build your own! ⛵️ + +Let's see! ### Step 2: Design Considerations -For this boat, we based our measurements on a traditional fishing canoe to create mould designs for fabrication. While alternative designs could be more efficient, we retained the traditional structure to align with existing boatbuilding methods and preserve heritage skills. +For this boat, we took an example and measurement of an existing traditional fishing canoe and made designs for moulds to fabricate the required parts. -Our moulds are designed for multiple uses. For example, the L-shaped rib can double as a bracket for larger vessels, and the "Muli" mould is suitable for both the canoe and a larger Taxi dhow. This approach, however, results in heavier components. +Although we could design very differently (potentially more efficiently) with plastic, we decided to stick as much as possible to the original design, as this enables boatbuilders to use their traditional building approach and helps to teach and maintain their boatbuilding heritage. + +For efficient use of materials, our moulds were designed with multi-use in mind (so the L-shape rib can be used as an L-shape bracket to reinforce different parts in a bigger dhow, or a “Muli” mould was long enough to serve for the canoe as well as the slightly bigger Taxi dhow). Note, that this also resulted in heavier parts than necessarily required. ![PXL_20230309_111109826-186c7a01d62.jpg](./PXL_20230309_111109826-186c7a01d62.jpg) @@ -39,11 +45,15 @@ Our moulds are designed for multiple uses. For example, the L-shaped rib can dou ### Step 3: Mould making -The custom molds were designed using CAD, and the accompanying drawings are available in the download files. These molds were plasma cut from 4 mm (0.16 inches) steel sheets. The mold sides featured alignment steps to ease assembly; however, due to the imprecision of the plasma cutter, significant manual finishing was required. +The custom moulds were designed in CAD and the drawings (you can find them in the download files) were sent to the be plasma cut out of 4mm steel sheets. + +The sides of the moulds were designed with alignment steps, to make assembly easier (due to an unclean cutting of the plasma cutter this resulted in a lot of manual post-processing work and unclean edges though). + +The rest was fabricated in-house: Assembling, bending, welding, drilling and bolting. To avoid swelling of the mould under pressure, reinforcement brackets were added to the sides. + +NOTE: For future welding jobs, we would cut the sides of the metal parts straight (without alignment steps), unless we are 100% sure about the quality of the cutting. This simplifies the process and even allows us to fabricate completely in-house, making the process more affordable at the same time. -The remaining fabrication—assembling, bending, welding, drilling, and bolting—was completed internally. To prevent deformation under pressure, reinforcement brackets were installed on the sides. -Note: For future welding, we recommend cutting the metal parts with straight edges, omitting alignment steps, unless the cut quality is guaranteed. This approach simplifies the process and supports complete in-house fabrication, potentially reducing costs. ![Screenshot 2023-01-27 at 15.18.18-185f33dd541.png](./Screenshot_2023-01-27_at_15.18.18-185f33dd541.png) @@ -56,89 +66,78 @@ Note: For future welding, we recommend cutting the metal parts with straight edg ### Step 4: Extruding -To extrude or inject into these parts, a fast, powerful extruder is necessary due to their large volume. Although we utilized an industrial extruder, an Extruder Pro (Design) may also be suitable, pending further testing. +To extrude / inject into these parts you will need quite a fast and powerful Extruder, as they have quite a big volume. We are using an industrial extruder, but an Extruder Pro ([filtered] Design) could also work (to be tested!). -Our extruder filled the parts with approximately 33-44 pounds (15-20 kg) of plastic in 10-15 minutes. Due to noticeable shrinkage and air pockets, we modified the process and continued injecting plastic for an additional 1-2 minutes after it emerged from the relief holes, ensuring complete mold filling and achieving better compression. +With our extruder, we filled the parts in about 10-15min with 15-20kg of plastic. As we noticed a lot of shrinkage and air pockets in the material, we adjusted the process and continued injecting plastic for 1-2 more minutes once the plastic came out the relief holes (indicating that the mould was full) to achieve more compression. We used 100% HDPE for our parts. -Note: Assess the quality of your parts to determine if process adjustments are necessary. Weight can indicate the presence of air pockets. +LEARNING: Make sure to check the quality of your parts to know if you need to adjust anything in the process. The weight is a good indication for the likeliness of airpocket inside. ![20220902_152133-185f33d8b92.jpg](./20220902_152133-185f33d8b92.jpg) ### Step 5: Get ready for boat building! -### Materials and Tools for Boat Building +Time to prepare all your materials and tools for boat building. This is what you'll need: -**Materials:** +Plastic material: +- Custom parts for the L-ribs, V-rib and front/back "muli" +- Lumber for the base, hull and interior (ideally min. 3m long) +You don't have to choose exactly the same sizes - have a look what you have available that can be strong enough -- **Plastic Parts:** Custom components for L-ribs, V-rib, and front/back sections. -- **Lumber:** For base, hull, and interior, ideally at least 3 meters (9.8 feet) in length. Choose available strong materials. +Fixings: screws and bolts, corking cotton -**Fixings:** Screws, bolts, and corking cotton. +Tools: +- standard working tools: saws, chisels, drill, screwdrivers, ruler, square +- traditional dhow/boat making tools (see image) +- heat gun (or welding gun) / melting machine -**Tools:** +Space: Use a flat space with smooth floor to make it easy to collect the plastic dust / particles. -- **Standard Tools:** Saws, chisels, drill, screwdrivers, ruler, square. -- **Specialty Tools:** Traditional dhow or boat-making tools. -- **Heat Equipment:** Heat gun or welding tool, melting machine. -**Space Requirements:** A flat area with a smooth floor facilitates easy collection of dust and particles. ![Tools-185f3ba6d1d.png](./Tools-185f3ba6d1d.png) ### Step 6: Utako and Levelling -### Keel Leveling Instructions +First very important step is to level your keel ("Utako") as all your next steps will be based and relying this straightness and level. -**Materials Required:** -- Keel Plank: 9x2 inches (22.86x5.08 cm), 16 feet (4.88 meters) long -- Base Logs: 5x5 inches (12.7x12.7 cm) +Material used: +- Keel Plank (9x2", 16ft long) +- Base logs (5x5") -**Tools Needed:** -- Spirit Level -- Hose Pipe +Levelling tools: Spirit Level and Hose pipe -**Procedure:** -1. Divide the keel into five equal segments and position a log at each division. -2. Position the keel plank, ensuring it is perfectly level. -3. Secure the keel to the base using nails or pegs on both sides. -4. Mark a center line on the keel to ensure proper alignment of subsequent components. +Process: +- divide the keel length into 5 and put a log at every fifth +- place the keel and make sure all is level +- fix the keel to the base with nails (or pegs) on both sides +- mark the center line on your keel, to align all coming parts to your center -**Note:** Plastic planks may exhibit bending or twisting. Apply weight to correct and level them. +Note: Plastic planks can sometimes have a bend or twist. You can help bring them on one level by adding weight. ![IMG_4386-184c74fb28b.JPG](./IMG_4386-184c74fb28b.JPG) ### Step 7: Front and back Mulis -### Materials Needed -- Mulis (2 units) -- Temporary supporting poles (Mabunda) +Materials used: Mulis (2x) and temporary supporting poles ("Mabunda") -### Process +Process: +- mark the center line on the front and back side of your muli +- if your muli is a bit warped, shape it on both long sides, so that its straight and symmetric +- cut a ribbet according to the size of your planks +- choose the angles for your Mulis to sit on the keel (we chose 45° in the front, and 70° in the back) +- cut the base of your muli according to the needed angle +- mark the shape of the Mulis on your keel and chisel it out (about 1/2" deep) and join them +- support the Mulis by adding Mabundas on the sides and the end +- use your Kabiru (plumb bob) to ensure your Mulis are straight and aligned to the center +- to fix the mulis in place, drill a hole through Muli and keel and join with a nut an bolt -1. **Mark Center Line:** Identify the front and back center lines on each Muli. - -2. **Shape Muli:** If warped, trim the long sides of the Muli to straighten and balance. +Note: We used silicone between the surfaces and cotton around the bolt to seal the joint. -3. **Cut Ribbet:** Tailor the ribbet according to the plank dimensions. - -4. **Determine Angles:** Select angles for positioning Mulis on the keel (45° front, 70° back). - -5. **Base Cutting:** Trim the Muli base to fit the selected angles. - -6. **Mark and Chisel:** Outline the Mulis on the keel, then chisel to a depth of 1/2 inch (1.27 cm) and assemble. - -7. **Support Mulis:** Stabilize with Mabundas affixed to sides and ends. - -8. **Alignment Check:** Use a plumb bob (Kabiru) to ensure Mulis align straight with the center. - -9. **Secure Position:** Drill through the Muli and keel; fasten with a nut and bolt. - -**Note:** A silicone sealant was applied between surfaces, with cotton wrapped around the bolt for added sealing. ![IMG_4587-184c75c16d8.JPG](./IMG_4587-184c75c16d8.JPG) @@ -151,45 +150,40 @@ Note: Assess the quality of your parts to determine if process adjustments are n ### Step 8: Front and back Bitana -# Bitana Installation Guide +The Bitana is a bracket reinforcement to hold the Muli to the Keel. -## Purpose -The Bitana serves as a bracket to secure the Muli to the Keel. +Materials: +- L-shape rib pieces (2x) -## Materials -- Two L-shaped rib pieces +Process: +- shape the Rib piece to fit the angle of the Muli to the keel +- make it tapered so the planks can go alongside +- drill and bolt it to the Muli and the Keel -## Instructions -1. Shape each rib piece to align with the angle between the Muli and the keel. -2. Taper the ribs to accommodate adjacent planks. -3. Drill and bolt the ribs to both the Muli and the Keel. +Do this on the front and the back side. -Repeat this process for both the front and back sides. ![IMG_4850-184c765f5fa.JPG](./IMG_4850-184c765f5fa.JPG) ### Step 9: Define the boat shape -Certainly. +You can choose different widths depending on how you want to use the boat. To be able to transport people comfortably, we chose the width to be a quarter of the length. It helps to choose the width according to the planks you have available. ---- - -You can select varying widths based on the intended use of the boat. For comfortably transporting people, we decided on a width one-quarter of the length. It's useful to align the width with the available planks. - -### Materials +Materials: - "Mapande" (wooden poles) -- A flexible, thin piece of wood or plastic for temporary "kinara" (top plank of the hull) +- thin and long easily bending piece of wood/plastic for temporary "kinara" (top plank of the hull) + +Process: +- attach Mapande at the widest point of the dhow +- create the rough shape with thin planks +- use a rope (or ruler/tape measure) to confirm equal width between both sides +- put rest of Mapande in place on the remaining base beams +- fixate your temporary "kinara" on the Mapande to keep the shape +- secure the position with "Mitindikani" - horizontal poles to keep the distance + -### Process -1. Attach Mapande at the boat's widest point. -2. Shape the boat with thin planks. -3. Use a rope or ruler/tape measure to ensure equal width on both sides. -4. Position the remaining Mapande on the base beams. -5. Fix the temporary "kinara" on the Mapande to maintain shape. -6. Use "Mitindikani" (horizontal poles) to secure the position. ---- ![IMG_4782-184c76f30be.JPG](./IMG_4782-184c76f30be.JPG) @@ -199,17 +193,19 @@ You can select varying widths based on the intended use of the boat. For comfort ### Step 10: Mataruma (Ribs) -## Materials: +Materials: - L-shape ribs (14x) -## Process: -1. Arrange ribs in pairs with 30.5 cm (12 inches) between pairs. -2. Ensure weight distribution is balanced front/back and left/right. -3. Cut longer pieces to match the shape. -4. Use a square to align ribs at a right angle to the keel. -5. If pieces are warped, use a planer or saw for correction. -6. Bolt ribs to the keel. -7. Add cross poles to secure ribs. +Process: +- place your ribs in place (in pairs) with equal distances to each other (we chose a distance of 12" between the pairs) +- if the parts vary in weight, make sure you distribute them so the weight is balanced (front/back, left/right) +- now cut the longer pieces according to the shape +- use a square to make sure the ribs sit in a right angle to the keel +- if there is warping/uneven sides of your pieces, use a shoka or saw to make them sit alongside nicely +- bolt the ribs to the keel +- place mitindikani (crossing poles) to keep the ribs in place + + ![IMG_4929-184c77bfc3a.JPG](./IMG_4929-184c77bfc3a.JPG) @@ -219,12 +215,11 @@ You can select varying widths based on the intended use of the boat. For comfort ### Step 11: Farkumu -Materials +Materials - V-shape ribs "Farkumu" (2x) -Instructions: -- Position the V-shape beam on the Bitana and create a lap joint to connect them. -- Secure with a bolt through the keel. +- The V-shape beam sits on the Bitana. To join them, make a lap joint between Bitana and Farkumu. +- Join them with a bolt through the keel ![IMG_4858-184c79b9ddd.JPG](./IMG_4858-184c79b9ddd.JPG) @@ -234,24 +229,19 @@ Instructions: ### Step 12: Kinara (top hull) -### Fitting the Hull -**Materials:** 9x1.5" (22.86x3.81 cm) planks, 10 pieces +THIS STEP TAKES A LOT OF TIME TO MAKE THE HULL FIT WELL. -**Instructions:** +Material: 9x1,5" x 10pcs -1. **Prepare the Top Plank (Kinara):** - - Mark and cut the bevel according to specifications. - - Position and secure the plank using clamps. - - Adjust ribs as needed for proper alignment. - - Fasten the plank with screws. +Start with Kinara (top plank) +- mark and cut the bevel according to Muli +- place plank in place and clamp it (we use our local technique "kisongo") +- if necessary, adjust the ribs, so they are aligned nicely +- fix in place with screws +- take the second piece, repeat fitting and cut a Z-joint to join the pieces +Do this on both sides, so the Kinara is all around the top. -2. **Attach Additional Planks:** - - Repeat the fitting process for the second piece. - - Cut a Z-joint to connect the pieces securely. - -3. **Complete the Top Perimeter:** - - Ensure the Kinara encircles the top on both sides. ![IMG_4946-184c7ab3e31.JPG](./IMG_4946-184c7ab3e31.JPG) @@ -264,32 +254,36 @@ Instructions: ### Step 13: Wajihi (rest of hull) -Materials: 9x1.5" planks (6 pcs) +Materials: 9x1.5" planks (6pcs) -- Complete the remaining rows with the same method. -- Unlike the top plank, a bevel joint may be used between the planks instead of a Z-joint. -- Alternate joint positions to prevent weak points where joints align. +- finish the other rows with the same process +- in contrast to top plank (kinara), you can use a bevel joint between the planks instead of Z-joint +-alternate the position of your joints as otherwise it creates a week point where all the joints are -Ensure all planks fit tightly with minimal gaps. Use a saw to trim uneven edges if necessary. +MAKE SURE ALL PLANKS ARE FITTED TIGHTLY, SO THERE IS AS LITTLE GAP AS POSSIBLE. +(you can use a saw in between to cut of uneven corners) ![Screenshot 2023-01-28 at 20.56.36-185f986f8da.png](./Screenshot_2023-01-28_at_20.56.36-185f986f8da.png) ### Step 14: Top locking -### Materials +Next step is to lock everything well in place with side strips and crossing beams + +Material: +- Tampisi: 2x3" planks (4pcs) +- Fundo la mongoti (crossing beam for the mast): 9x2" +- Fundo la nyuma (back crossing beam): 9x1.5" + +Process: +- we cut a step into the ribs to make the tampisi and firari sit flush on the sides +- place the tampisi onto the step and fix in place with screws +- place a the "fundo la mongoti" on top of the tampisi at 1/3 of the keel from the front +- place "fundo la nyuma" on top of the tampisi in the back (where desired) +- make lap joints between Tampisi + Fundos and bolt them together -- Tampisi: 2x3 inches (5.1x7.6 cm) planks (4 pieces) -- Fundo la mongoti (crossing beam for the mast): 9x2 inches (22.9x5.1 cm) -- Fundo la nyuma (back crossing beam): 9x1.5 inches (22.9x3.8 cm) -### Process -1. Cut a step into the ribs to ensure the tampisi and firari fit flush against the sides. -2. Place the tampisi onto the step and secure it with screws. -3. Position "fundo la mongoti" atop the tampisi at one-third of the keel from the front. -4. Position "fundo la nyuma" atop the tampisi at the desired location in the back. -5. Create lap joints between the Tampisi and Fundos, securing with bolts. ![IMG_5165-184c7b2d9ea.JPG](./IMG_5165-184c7b2d9ea.JPG) @@ -299,20 +293,20 @@ Ensure all planks fit tightly with minimal gaps. Use a saw to trim uneven edges ### Step 15: Staha -Staha is designed to reinforce the Muli to Kinara, providing both seating and storage. +Staha is to reinforce the Muli to Kinara (and to provide sitting area and storage) -Materials Required: -- 9x1.5" (22.9x3.8 cm) plank -- 2x4" (5.1x10.2 cm) plank +Used materials: +- 9x1,5" plank +- 2x4" plank Process: FRONT STAHA -- Trim the top of the muli to align with the top plank. -- Position a 2x4" (5.1x10.2 cm) beam perpendicularly to the center line for support. -- Cut planks to fit over the boat's front triangle. +- cut the top of the muli so its extending the line of the top plank +- place a 2x4" beam to support in a right angle to the center line as support +- cut planks to cover the front triangle of the boat BACK STAHA -- Fit two planks to create a seating base, leaving an opening for rope attachment. +- we simply fitted 2 planks to make a sitting base (and left a hole as it can be useful to fix ropes etc.) ![IMG_5175-184c7b7963b.JPG](./IMG_5175-184c7b7963b.JPG) @@ -322,21 +316,20 @@ BACK STAHA ### Step 16: Firari + Dufani -Firari and Dufani reinforce the top edges and structure. +Firari and Dufani are the top to finish off the top edges and reinforce the structure once more. -Materials: -- Dufani (5x1", 4 pieces) -- Firari (2.5x1", 4 pieces) +Materials: Dufani (5x1", 4pcs), Firari (2.5x1", 4pcs) -Firari Process: -1. Position Firari at the top of the structure and shave them to level with Dufani. -2. Ensure the distance between Firari and adjacent parts is parallel. -3. Join the planks with a bevel joint and secure with screws. +Process Firari: +- position the Firari at the top of the mataruma (and shave them so the Dufani can sit levelled) +- try to keep the distance between tampisi and firari parallel +- join the planks with a bevel joint and screw them in place -Dufani Process: -1. Cut the front angle for a proper fit at the corners. -2. Bend the plank gradually: clamp the first foot (approx. 12"), screw in place, then continue bending and securing every foot until fully bent. -3. Repeat the process from the opposite end, meeting in the center with a bevel joint. +Process Dufani: +- start by cutting the angle in the front so it attaches well into the front/back corner +- for bending the plank, go "pole pole" (slowly slowly): + clamp the first foot (30cm) and screw it in place, then bend the plank, screw the next foot, etc. until it is completely bent +- do the same from the other end and meet in the center with a bevel joint ![IMG_5396-184c7ba18a8.JPG](./IMG_5396-184c7ba18a8.JPG) @@ -346,13 +339,15 @@ Dufani Process: ### Step 17: Finish the base -Flip the dhow to complete the base. +Time to turn your dhow upside down to finish the base! -Ensure you create a water channel on both sides. +Important! +Don't forget to create a water channel on both sides for the water to pass through. (see photo) -Cut the planks to match the base's shape, minimizing gaps. +Cut your planks according to the shape of your base, and make sure to fit them with as little as gap as possible. + +Screw them onto the ribs. Base is done :) -Secure them to the ribs. Base complete. ![IMG_5452-184c7c449b7.JPG](./IMG_5452-184c7c449b7.JPG) @@ -365,14 +360,15 @@ Secure them to the ribs. Base complete. ### Step 18: Finishing & Sealing -### Finalizing and Sealing the Dhow +Now last step remaining is to finish and seal the dhow, so no water can enter inside. -1. Trim the excess corners of the planks to smooth the hull's surface. -2. Use traditional caulking with cotton, inserting it between plank gaps with a "chembeo." -3. Complete the process by sealing with melted plastic using a heat gun, a method akin to plastic welding. -4. Apply plastic welding to seal screws and other gaps. +- shave the excess corners of the planks to smoothen the surface of the hull +- we used the traditional corking with cotton and hit it inbetween the gaps of the planks with the "chembeo" +- to finalise, we topped up the kalafati with melted plastic with a heat gun to seal it completely (it's like plastic welding) +- with the plastic welding we also sealed the screws and other gaps -**Note:** The plastic welding used was rudimentary and requires further testing. Results from using a specialized plastic welding tool will be shared in the future. +NOTE: The plastic welding was done very low-tech and is to be tested! +We hope to test a proper plastic welding tool soon for the sealing of the hull and will share the results :) ![IMG_5518-184c7d11c82.JPG](./IMG_5518-184c7d11c82.JPG) @@ -385,23 +381,25 @@ Secure them to the ribs. Base complete. ### Step 19: Testing & finalising hull -After completing the hull and initial sealing, it's time for testing: +Big moment! When you're done with the hull and first round of sealing, it's time to test: -- Invert the boat -- Launch into water or fill it -- Identify any leaks by observing water entry points -- Complete sealing at those locations +- turn the boat around +- launch it in the water (or fill it with water) +- observe where the water is passing through gaps to find any leakage +- finalise the sealing on those points ![IMG_5768-184c7d32d31.JPG](./IMG_5768-184c7d32d31.JPG) ### Step 20: Rigging / Powering -Congratulations, you have completed the initial steps. +Alright, you're basically done! -Now choose your boat's propulsion method: motor, paddles, or sail. +You can now decide how you want to power your boat: +With a motor, paddles, or a sail? -Our preference is a sail with a rudder. We used traditional wooden mast and boom. A visually striking sail can also serve as an attention-grabber. +We are sailors, so we obviously put a sail, with a rudder. (The mast and boom are traditional ones out of wood) +Additional bonus if you use a sail: Make it an eye catcher and use the opportunity to create awareness ✨ ![Dau la Mwao-184c7d73126.jpg](./Dau_la_Mwao-184c7d73126.jpg) @@ -414,59 +412,14 @@ Our preference is a sail with a rudder. We used traditional wooden mast and boom ### Step 21: SAIL AND INSPIRE -# Tutorial Conclusion +Now go out there, inspire others, tell them the story (and to join the fight against plastic pollution), and enjoy! -Encourage others and share your experience. If you pursue a similar project or find inspiration in this, please inform us. We welcome your feedback. +If you get to this point or it inspires you to do something similar, please let us know, we'd be so happy (you can tag us on social media with @​​​​​​​theflipflopi) -Always keep a tool handy to remove water. Even if it's not entering from below, it may be entering with the waves. +Oh, and always have something with you to bale out water - even if no water is coming in from the bottom, it might be coming in with the waves :) ![IMG_6324-185f91722da.JPG](./IMG_6324-185f91722da.JPG) ## Resources -### Software - -- CAD software for mold design - -### Hardware - -- Plasma cutter (4 mm steel sheets) -- Industrial extruder (e.g., Extruder Pro)\ - The reason is because -- High-power heat gun or plastic welding tool -- Drilling and bolting equipment -- Melting machine for HDPE processing - -### Tools - -- Standard tools (saws, chisels, drill, screwdrivers, ruler, square) -- Spirit level and hose pipe for keel alignment -- Plumb bob (Kabiru) and chembeo (caulking tool) -- Clamps and planer for plank shaping -- Traditional dhow boat-making tools -## References -## References - -### Articles - -- [The Flipflopi Project: Mitigating Plastic Pollution through Heritage Boat Building](https://smepprogramme.org/project/the-flipflopi-project/) -- ~~[Flipflopi turns plastic waste into beautiful Kenyan boats](https://inhabitat.com/flipflopi-turns-plastic-waste-into-beautiful-kenyan-boats/)~~ -- [Closing the Loop on Waste Plastics Through Heritage Boat Building](https://www.unesco.org/en/articles/closing-loop-waste-plastics-through-heritage-boat-building) -- [Meet the 'plastic revolutionaries' of Kenya and Uganda](https://www.whatdesigncando.com/stories/meet-the-plastic-revolutionaries-of-kenya-and-uganda/) - -### YouTube - -- [Making Dhow (Arab Boat)](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QdwYZv_fgf0) -- [How to build a canoe from plastic waste](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ku3btzZyBPA) -- [The Flipflopi Expedition: An Overview](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JcBajK5gjC0) - -### Open-source Designs - -- [Boat Build Toolkit](https://www.theflipflopi.com/blog/launching-the-boat-build-toolkit) -- [Boatbuilding Toolkit](https://www.theflipflopi.com/boatbuilding-toolkit) -- Build a 'Flipflopi' boat -- [The Flipflopi Project Documentation](https://static1.squarespace.com/static/591594fa5016e15d0cf9453c/t/633ed2675b96e34a1d6e0f9f/1665061653166/Introducing+The+Flipflopi2022.pdf) - -### Papers - -- [Material Analysis Report](https://tinyurl.com/flipflopi-material-analysis) \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/build-a-fishing-canoe/config.json b/howtos/build-a-fishing-canoe/config.json index 14102f71f..f7fe7f3ca 100644 --- a/howtos/build-a-fishing-canoe/config.json +++ b/howtos/build-a-fishing-canoe/config.json @@ -23,7 +23,7 @@ "time": "1+ months", "steps": [ { - "text": "First, observe the entire process to gain an understanding.\n\nBoatbuilding requires practice and experience, but with this video and the accompanying steps, you can potentially build your own.", + "text": "First sit back and watch the full process so you can get an idea :)\n\nBoatbuilding is a skill that needs a lot of practice and experience, but with this video and the following how-to steps, you might actually be able to build your own! ⛵️\n\nLet's see!", "_animationKey": "unique9zhr9", "images": [], "videoUrl": "https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ku3btzZyBPA", @@ -57,7 +57,7 @@ "alt": "Screenshot 2023-01-27 at 15.19.22-185f32b405b-186c7a0483e.png" } ], - "text": "For this boat, we based our measurements on a traditional fishing canoe to create mould designs for fabrication. While alternative designs could be more efficient, we retained the traditional structure to align with existing boatbuilding methods and preserve heritage skills.\n\nOur moulds are designed for multiple uses. For example, the L-shaped rib can double as a bracket for larger vessels, and the \"Muli\" mould is suitable for both the canoe and a larger Taxi dhow. This approach, however, results in heavier components.", + "text": "For this boat, we took an example and measurement of an existing traditional fishing canoe and made designs for moulds to fabricate the required parts. \n\nAlthough we could design very differently (potentially more efficiently) with plastic, we decided to stick as much as possible to the original design, as this enables boatbuilders to use their traditional building approach and helps to teach and maintain their boatbuilding heritage.\n\nFor efficient use of materials, our moulds were designed with multi-use in mind (so the L-shape rib can be used as an L-shape bracket to reinforce different parts in a bigger dhow, or a “Muli” mould was long enough to serve for the canoe as well as the slightly bigger Taxi dhow). Note, that this also resulted in heavier parts than necessarily required.", "_animationKey": "unique9kmuzzb" }, { @@ -100,7 +100,7 @@ "alt": "Screenshot 2023-03-09 at 15.24.15-186c7a0cc34.png" } ], - "text": "The custom molds were designed using CAD, and the accompanying drawings are available in the download files. These molds were plasma cut from 4 mm (0.16 inches) steel sheets. The mold sides featured alignment steps to ease assembly; however, due to the imprecision of the plasma cutter, significant manual finishing was required.\n\nThe remaining fabrication—assembling, bending, welding, drilling, and bolting—was completed internally. To prevent deformation under pressure, reinforcement brackets were installed on the sides.\n\nNote: For future welding, we recommend cutting the metal parts with straight edges, omitting alignment steps, unless the cut quality is guaranteed. This approach simplifies the process and supports complete in-house fabrication, potentially reducing costs.", + "text": "The custom moulds were designed in CAD and the drawings (you can find them in the download files) were sent to the be plasma cut out of 4mm steel sheets.\n\nThe sides of the moulds were designed with alignment steps, to make assembly easier (due to an unclean cutting of the plasma cutter this resulted in a lot of manual post-processing work and unclean edges though).\n\nThe rest was fabricated in-house: Assembling, bending, welding, drilling and bolting. To avoid swelling of the mould under pressure, reinforcement brackets were added to the sides.\n\nNOTE: For future welding jobs, we would cut the sides of the metal parts straight (without alignment steps), unless we are 100% sure about the quality of the cutting. This simplifies the process and even allows us to fabricate completely in-house, making the process more affordable at the same time.\n\n", "_animationKey": "uniqueqqg4r" }, { @@ -119,7 +119,7 @@ } ], "title": "Extruding", - "text": "To extrude or inject into these parts, a fast, powerful extruder is necessary due to their large volume. Although we utilized an industrial extruder, an Extruder Pro (Design) may also be suitable, pending further testing. \n\nOur extruder filled the parts with approximately 33-44 pounds (15-20 kg) of plastic in 10-15 minutes. Due to noticeable shrinkage and air pockets, we modified the process and continued injecting plastic for an additional 1-2 minutes after it emerged from the relief holes, ensuring complete mold filling and achieving better compression.\n\nWe used 100% HDPE for our parts.\n\nNote: Assess the quality of your parts to determine if process adjustments are necessary. Weight can indicate the presence of air pockets.", + "text": "To extrude / inject into these parts you will need quite a fast and powerful Extruder, as they have quite a big volume. We are using an industrial extruder, but an Extruder Pro ([filtered] Design) could also work (to be tested!).\n\nWith our extruder, we filled the parts in about 10-15min with 15-20kg of plastic. As we noticed a lot of shrinkage and air pockets in the material, we adjusted the process and continued injecting plastic for 1-2 more minutes once the plastic came out the relief holes (indicating that the mould was full) to achieve more compression.\n\nWe used 100% HDPE for our parts.\n\nLEARNING: Make sure to check the quality of your parts to know if you need to adjust anything in the process. The weight is a good indication for the likeliness of airpocket inside.", "_animationKey": "uniqueae7n6" }, { @@ -137,7 +137,7 @@ "alt": "Tools-185f3ba6d1d.png" } ], - "text": "### Materials and Tools for Boat Building\n\n**Materials:**\n\n- **Plastic Parts:** Custom components for L-ribs, V-rib, and front/back sections.\n- **Lumber:** For base, hull, and interior, ideally at least 3 meters (9.8 feet) in length. Choose available strong materials.\n\n**Fixings:** Screws, bolts, and corking cotton.\n\n**Tools:**\n\n- **Standard Tools:** Saws, chisels, drill, screwdrivers, ruler, square.\n- **Specialty Tools:** Traditional dhow or boat-making tools.\n- **Heat Equipment:** Heat gun or welding tool, melting machine.\n\n**Space Requirements:** A flat area with a smooth floor facilitates easy collection of dust and particles.", + "text": "Time to prepare all your materials and tools for boat building. This is what you'll need:\n\nPlastic material: \n- Custom parts for the L-ribs, V-rib and front/back \"muli\"\n- Lumber for the base, hull and interior (ideally min. 3m long)\nYou don't have to choose exactly the same sizes - have a look what you have available that can be strong enough\n\nFixings: screws and bolts, corking cotton\n\nTools: \n- standard working tools: saws, chisels, drill, screwdrivers, ruler, square\n- traditional dhow/boat making tools (see image)\n- heat gun (or welding gun) / melting machine\n\nSpace: Use a flat space with smooth floor to make it easy to collect the plastic dust / particles.\n\n", "title": "Get ready for boat building!", "_animationKey": "uniqueyfdn7a" }, @@ -158,7 +158,7 @@ } ], "_animationKey": "unique1", - "text": "### Keel Leveling Instructions\n\n**Materials Required:**\n- Keel Plank: 9x2 inches (22.86x5.08 cm), 16 feet (4.88 meters) long\n- Base Logs: 5x5 inches (12.7x12.7 cm)\n\n**Tools Needed:**\n- Spirit Level\n- Hose Pipe\n\n**Procedure:**\n1. Divide the keel into five equal segments and position a log at each division.\n2. Position the keel plank, ensuring it is perfectly level.\n3. Secure the keel to the base using nails or pegs on both sides.\n4. Mark a center line on the keel to ensure proper alignment of subsequent components.\n\n**Note:** Plastic planks may exhibit bending or twisting. Apply weight to correct and level them." + "text": "First very important step is to level your keel (\"Utako\") as all your next steps will be based and relying this straightness and level.\n\nMaterial used: \n- Keel Plank (9x2\", 16ft long)\n- Base logs (5x5\")\n\nLevelling tools: Spirit Level and Hose pipe\n\nProcess:\n- divide the keel length into 5 and put a log at every fifth\n- place the keel and make sure all is level\n- fix the keel to the base with nails (or pegs) on both sides\n- mark the center line on your keel, to align all coming parts to your center\n\nNote: Plastic planks can sometimes have a bend or twist. You can help bring them on one level by adding weight." }, { "images": [ @@ -199,13 +199,13 @@ "alt": "IMG_4711-184c76012aa.JPG" } ], - "text": "### Materials Needed\n- Mulis (2 units)\n- Temporary supporting poles (Mabunda)\n\n### Process\n\n1. **Mark Center Line:** Identify the front and back center lines on each Muli.\n \n2. **Shape Muli:** If warped, trim the long sides of the Muli to straighten and balance.\n\n3. **Cut Ribbet:** Tailor the ribbet according to the plank dimensions.\n\n4. **Determine Angles:** Select angles for positioning Mulis on the keel (45° front, 70° back).\n\n5. **Base Cutting:** Trim the Muli base to fit the selected angles.\n\n6. **Mark and Chisel:** Outline the Mulis on the keel, then chisel to a depth of 1/2 inch (1.27 cm) and assemble.\n\n7. **Support Mulis:** Stabilize with Mabundas affixed to sides and ends.\n\n8. **Alignment Check:** Use a plumb bob (Kabiru) to ensure Mulis align straight with the center.\n\n9. **Secure Position:** Drill through the Muli and keel; fasten with a nut and bolt.\n\n**Note:** A silicone sealant was applied between surfaces, with cotton wrapped around the bolt for added sealing.", + "text": "Materials used: Mulis (2x) and temporary supporting poles (\"Mabunda\")\n\nProcess:\n- mark the center line on the front and back side of your muli\n- if your muli is a bit warped, shape it on both long sides, so that its straight and symmetric\n- cut a ribbet according to the size of your planks\n- choose the angles for your Mulis to sit on the keel (we chose 45° in the front, and 70° in the back)\n- cut the base of your muli according to the needed angle\n- mark the shape of the Mulis on your keel and chisel it out (about 1/2\" deep) and join them\n- support the Mulis by adding Mabundas on the sides and the end\n- use your Kabiru (plumb bob) to ensure your Mulis are straight and aligned to the center\n- to fix the mulis in place, drill a hole through Muli and keel and join with a nut an bolt\n\nNote: We used silicone between the surfaces and cotton around the bolt to seal the joint.\n", "title": "Front and back Mulis", "_animationKey": "unique2" }, { "_animationKey": "unique3", - "text": "# Bitana Installation Guide\n\n## Purpose\nThe Bitana serves as a bracket to secure the Muli to the Keel.\n\n## Materials\n- Two L-shaped rib pieces\n\n## Instructions\n1. Shape each rib piece to align with the angle between the Muli and the keel.\n2. Taper the ribs to accommodate adjacent planks.\n3. Drill and bolt the ribs to both the Muli and the Keel.\n\nRepeat this process for both the front and back sides.", + "text": "The Bitana is a bracket reinforcement to hold the Muli to the Keel.\n\nMaterials:\n- L-shape rib pieces (2x)\n\nProcess:\n- shape the Rib piece to fit the angle of the Muli to the keel\n- make it tapered so the planks can go alongside\n- drill and bolt it to the Muli and the Keel\n\nDo this on the front and the back side.\n", "title": "Front and back Bitana", "images": [ { @@ -224,7 +224,7 @@ }, { "title": "Define the boat shape", - "text": "Certainly.\n\n---\n\nYou can select varying widths based on the intended use of the boat. For comfortably transporting people, we decided on a width one-quarter of the length. It's useful to align the width with the available planks.\n\n### Materials\n- \"Mapande\" (wooden poles)\n- A flexible, thin piece of wood or plastic for temporary \"kinara\" (top plank of the hull)\n\n### Process\n1. Attach Mapande at the boat's widest point.\n2. Shape the boat with thin planks.\n3. Use a rope or ruler/tape measure to ensure equal width on both sides.\n4. Position the remaining Mapande on the base beams.\n5. Fix the temporary \"kinara\" on the Mapande to maintain shape.\n6. Use \"Mitindikani\" (horizontal poles) to secure the position.\n\n---", + "text": "You can choose different widths depending on how you want to use the boat. To be able to transport people comfortably, we chose the width to be a quarter of the length. It helps to choose the width according to the planks you have available.\n\nMaterials:\n- \"Mapande\" (wooden poles)\n- thin and long easily bending piece of wood/plastic for temporary \"kinara\" (top plank of the hull)\n\nProcess:\n- attach Mapande at the widest point of the dhow\n- create the rough shape with thin planks\n- use a rope (or ruler/tape measure) to confirm equal width between both sides\n- put rest of Mapande in place on the remaining base beams\n- fixate your temporary \"kinara\" on the Mapande to keep the shape\n- secure the position with \"Mitindikani\" - horizontal poles to keep the distance\n\n\n", "images": [ { "size": 287561, @@ -282,7 +282,7 @@ "alt": "IMG_4888-184c77c494c.JPG" } ], - "text": "## Materials:\n- L-shape ribs (14x)\n\n## Process:\n1. Arrange ribs in pairs with 30.5 cm (12 inches) between pairs.\n2. Ensure weight distribution is balanced front/back and left/right.\n3. Cut longer pieces to match the shape.\n4. Use a square to align ribs at a right angle to the keel.\n5. If pieces are warped, use a planer or saw for correction.\n6. Bolt ribs to the keel.\n7. Add cross poles to secure ribs." + "text": "Materials:\n- L-shape ribs (14x)\n\nProcess:\n- place your ribs in place (in pairs) with equal distances to each other (we chose a distance of 12\" between the pairs)\n- if the parts vary in weight, make sure you distribute them so the weight is balanced (front/back, left/right)\n- now cut the longer pieces according to the shape\n- use a square to make sure the ribs sit in a right angle to the keel\n- if there is warping/uneven sides of your pieces, use a shoka or saw to make them sit alongside nicely\n- bolt the ribs to the keel\n- place mitindikani (crossing poles) to keep the ribs in place\n\n" }, { "_animationKey": "unique458iq8", @@ -313,7 +313,7 @@ "alt": "IMG_4842-184c79e2260.JPG" } ], - "text": "Materials\n- V-shape ribs \"Farkumu\" (2x)\n\nInstructions:\n- Position the V-shape beam on the Bitana and create a lap joint to connect them.\n- Secure with a bolt through the keel." + "text": "Materials \n- V-shape ribs \"Farkumu\" (2x)\n\n- The V-shape beam sits on the Bitana. To join them, make a lap joint between Bitana and Farkumu.\n- Join them with a bolt through the keel" }, { "_animationKey": "uniqueyeqz", @@ -356,7 +356,7 @@ } ], "title": "Kinara (top hull)", - "text": "### Fitting the Hull\n\n**Materials:** 9x1.5\" (22.86x3.81 cm) planks, 10 pieces\n\n**Instructions:**\n\n1. **Prepare the Top Plank (Kinara):**\n - Mark and cut the bevel according to specifications.\n - Position and secure the plank using clamps. \n - Adjust ribs as needed for proper alignment.\n - Fasten the plank with screws.\n\n2. **Attach Additional Planks:**\n - Repeat the fitting process for the second piece.\n - Cut a Z-joint to connect the pieces securely.\n\n3. **Complete the Top Perimeter:**\n - Ensure the Kinara encircles the top on both sides." + "text": "\nTHIS STEP TAKES A LOT OF TIME TO MAKE THE HULL FIT WELL.\n\nMaterial: 9x1,5\" x 10pcs\n\nStart with Kinara (top plank)\n- mark and cut the bevel according to Muli \n- place plank in place and clamp it (we use our local technique \"kisongo\") \n- if necessary, adjust the ribs, so they are aligned nicely\n- fix in place with screws\n- take the second piece, repeat fitting and cut a Z-joint to join the pieces\nDo this on both sides, so the Kinara is all around the top.\n" }, { "title": "Wajihi (rest of hull)", @@ -375,7 +375,7 @@ } ], "_animationKey": "uniquei0sec", - "text": "Materials: 9x1.5\" planks (6 pcs)\n\n- Complete the remaining rows with the same method.\n- Unlike the top plank, a bevel joint may be used between the planks instead of a Z-joint.\n- Alternate joint positions to prevent weak points where joints align.\n\nEnsure all planks fit tightly with minimal gaps. Use a saw to trim uneven edges if necessary." + "text": "Materials: 9x1.5\" planks (6pcs)\n\n- finish the other rows with the same process\n- in contrast to top plank (kinara), you can use a bevel joint between the planks instead of Z-joint\n-alternate the position of your joints as otherwise it creates a week point where all the joints are\n\nMAKE SURE ALL PLANKS ARE FITTED TIGHTLY, SO THERE IS AS LITTLE GAP AS POSSIBLE.\n(you can use a saw in between to cut of uneven corners)" }, { "images": [ @@ -404,12 +404,12 @@ "alt": "IMG_5178-184c7b36459.JPG" } ], - "text": "### Materials\n\n- Tampisi: 2x3 inches (5.1x7.6 cm) planks (4 pieces)\n- Fundo la mongoti (crossing beam for the mast): 9x2 inches (22.9x5.1 cm)\n- Fundo la nyuma (back crossing beam): 9x1.5 inches (22.9x3.8 cm)\n\n### Process\n\n1. Cut a step into the ribs to ensure the tampisi and firari fit flush against the sides.\n2. Place the tampisi onto the step and secure it with screws.\n3. Position \"fundo la mongoti\" atop the tampisi at one-third of the keel from the front.\n4. Position \"fundo la nyuma\" atop the tampisi at the desired location in the back.\n5. Create lap joints between the Tampisi and Fundos, securing with bolts.", + "text": "Next step is to lock everything well in place with side strips and crossing beams\n\nMaterial:\n- Tampisi: 2x3\" planks (4pcs)\n- Fundo la mongoti (crossing beam for the mast): 9x2\"\n- Fundo la nyuma (back crossing beam): 9x1.5\"\n\nProcess:\n- we cut a step into the ribs to make the tampisi and firari sit flush on the sides\n- place the tampisi onto the step and fix in place with screws\n- place a the \"fundo la mongoti\" on top of the tampisi at 1/3 of the keel from the front\n- place \"fundo la nyuma\" on top of the tampisi in the back (where desired)\n- make lap joints between Tampisi + Fundos and bolt them together\n\n\n", "_animationKey": "unique3jyzwh", "title": "Top locking" }, { - "text": "Staha is designed to reinforce the Muli to Kinara, providing both seating and storage.\n\nMaterials Required:\n- 9x1.5\" (22.9x3.8 cm) plank\n- 2x4\" (5.1x10.2 cm) plank\n\nProcess:\nFRONT STAHA\n- Trim the top of the muli to align with the top plank.\n- Position a 2x4\" (5.1x10.2 cm) beam perpendicularly to the center line for support.\n- Cut planks to fit over the boat's front triangle.\n\nBACK STAHA\n- Fit two planks to create a seating base, leaving an opening for rope attachment.", + "text": "Staha is to reinforce the Muli to Kinara (and to provide sitting area and storage)\n\nUsed materials:\n- 9x1,5\" plank\n- 2x4\" plank \n\nProcess:\nFRONT STAHA\n- cut the top of the muli so its extending the line of the top plank\n- place a 2x4\" beam to support in a right angle to the center line as support\n- cut planks to cover the front triangle of the boat\n\nBACK STAHA\n- we simply fitted 2 planks to make a sitting base (and left a hole as it can be useful to fix ropes etc.)", "images": [ { "type": "image/jpeg", @@ -440,7 +440,7 @@ "_animationKey": "uniquecixzy" }, { - "text": "Firari and Dufani reinforce the top edges and structure. \n\nMaterials: \n- Dufani (5x1\", 4 pieces)\n- Firari (2.5x1\", 4 pieces)\n\nFirari Process: \n1. Position Firari at the top of the structure and shave them to level with Dufani.\n2. Ensure the distance between Firari and adjacent parts is parallel.\n3. Join the planks with a bevel joint and secure with screws.\n\nDufani Process: \n1. Cut the front angle for a proper fit at the corners.\n2. Bend the plank gradually: clamp the first foot (approx. 12\"), screw in place, then continue bending and securing every foot until fully bent.\n3. Repeat the process from the opposite end, meeting in the center with a bevel joint.", + "text": "Firari and Dufani are the top to finish off the top edges and reinforce the structure once more.\n\nMaterials: Dufani (5x1\", 4pcs), Firari (2.5x1\", 4pcs)\n\nProcess Firari:\n- position the Firari at the top of the mataruma (and shave them so the Dufani can sit levelled)\n- try to keep the distance between tampisi and firari parallel\n- join the planks with a bevel joint and screw them in place\n\nProcess Dufani:\n- start by cutting the angle in the front so it attaches well into the front/back corner\n- for bending the plank, go \"pole pole\" (slowly slowly): \n clamp the first foot (30cm) and screw it in place, then bend the plank, screw the next foot, etc. until it is completely bent\n- do the same from the other end and meet in the center with a bevel joint ", "images": [ { "timeCreated": "2022-11-30T09:22:27.039Z", @@ -511,12 +511,12 @@ } ], "title": "Finish the base", - "text": "Flip the dhow to complete the base.\n\nEnsure you create a water channel on both sides. \n\nCut the planks to match the base's shape, minimizing gaps.\n\nSecure them to the ribs. Base complete." + "text": "Time to turn your dhow upside down to finish the base!\n\nImportant! \nDon't forget to create a water channel on both sides for the water to pass through. (see photo)\n\nCut your planks according to the shape of your base, and make sure to fit them with as little as gap as possible.\n\nScrew them onto the ribs. Base is done :)\n" }, { "_animationKey": "unique8q2wj", "title": "Finishing & Sealing", - "text": "### Finalizing and Sealing the Dhow\n\n1. Trim the excess corners of the planks to smooth the hull's surface.\n2. Use traditional caulking with cotton, inserting it between plank gaps with a \"chembeo.\"\n3. Complete the process by sealing with melted plastic using a heat gun, a method akin to plastic welding.\n4. Apply plastic welding to seal screws and other gaps.\n\n**Note:** The plastic welding used was rudimentary and requires further testing. Results from using a specialized plastic welding tool will be shared in the future.", + "text": "Now last step remaining is to finish and seal the dhow, so no water can enter inside.\n\n- shave the excess corners of the planks to smoothen the surface of the hull \n- we used the traditional corking with cotton and hit it inbetween the gaps of the planks with the \"chembeo\"\n- to finalise, we topped up the kalafati with melted plastic with a heat gun to seal it completely (it's like plastic welding)\n- with the plastic welding we also sealed the screws and other gaps\n\nNOTE: The plastic welding was done very low-tech and is to be tested!\nWe hope to test a proper plastic welding tool soon for the sealing of the hull and will share the results :)", "images": [ { "size": 249860, @@ -573,11 +573,11 @@ "alt": "IMG_5768-184c7d32d31.JPG" } ], - "text": "After completing the hull and initial sealing, it's time for testing:\n\n- Invert the boat\n- Launch into water or fill it\n- Identify any leaks by observing water entry points\n- Complete sealing at those locations" + "text": "Big moment! When you're done with the hull and first round of sealing, it's time to test:\n\n- turn the boat around\n- launch it in the water (or fill it with water) \n- observe where the water is passing through gaps to find any leakage\n- finalise the sealing on those points" }, { "title": "Rigging / Powering", - "text": "Congratulations, you have completed the initial steps.\n\nNow choose your boat's propulsion method: motor, paddles, or sail.\n\nOur preference is a sail with a rudder. We used traditional wooden mast and boom. A visually striking sail can also serve as an attention-grabber.", + "text": "Alright, you're basically done!\n\nYou can now decide how you want to power your boat:\nWith a motor, paddles, or a sail?\n\nWe are sailors, so we obviously put a sail, with a rudder. (The mast and boom are traditional ones out of wood)\nAdditional bonus if you use a sail: Make it an eye catcher and use the opportunity to create awareness ✨", "images": [ { "updated": "2022-11-30T09:22:48.685Z", @@ -619,7 +619,7 @@ "_animationKey": "uniquemveftc" }, { - "text": "# Tutorial Conclusion\n\nEncourage others and share your experience. If you pursue a similar project or find inspiration in this, please inform us. We welcome your feedback.\n\nAlways keep a tool handy to remove water. Even if it's not entering from below, it may be entering with the waves.", + "text": "Now go out there, inspire others, tell them the story (and to join the fight against plastic pollution), and enjoy!\n\nIf you get to this point or it inspires you to do something similar, please let us know, we'd be so happy (you can tag us on social media with @​​​​​​​theflipflopi)\n\nOh, and always have something with you to bale out water - even if no water is coming in from the bottom, it might be coming in with the waves :)", "title": "SAIL AND INSPIRE", "images": [ { @@ -661,7 +661,7 @@ "title": "Build a Fishing Canoe", "_contentModifiedTimestamp": "2023-08-11T11:45:58.387Z", "total_downloads": 0, - "description": "At the Flipflopi Project, we initiated a unique boat-building course, utilizing waste plastic as the primary construction material. As a practical project, students constructed a local fishing dhow, \"Dau la Mwao,\" a common vessel suitable for a short course.\n\nThis tutorial outlines the process and insights gained.", + "description": "YAP YAP!\nAt the Flipflopi Project we piloted a first of its kind heritage boat building course, using waste plastic as the major construction material. As a major practical project the students built a local fishing dhow “Dau la Mwao” which is a very commonly used vessel and a doable size for a short boat building course.\n\nThis how-to shows the process and learnings we made along the way ⛵️", "user": { "_modified": "2024-02-01T18:35:18.186Z", "verified": false, @@ -776,9 +776,5 @@ "category": { "label": "uncategorized" }, - "content": "At the Flipflopi Project, we initiated a unique boat-building course, utilizing waste plastic as the primary construction material. As a practical project, students constructed a local fishing dhow, \"Dau la Mwao,\" a common vessel suitable for a short course.\n\nThis tutorial outlines the process and insights gained.\n\n\nUser Location: Lamu, Kenya\n\nFirst, observe the entire process to gain an understanding.\n\nBoatbuilding requires practice and experience, but with this video and the accompanying steps, you can potentially build your own.\n\nFor this boat, we based our measurements on a traditional fishing canoe to create mould designs for fabrication. While alternative designs could be more efficient, we retained the traditional structure to align with existing boatbuilding methods and preserve heritage skills.\n\nOur moulds are designed for multiple uses. For example, the L-shaped rib can double as a bracket for larger vessels, and the \"Muli\" mould is suitable for both the canoe and a larger Taxi dhow. This approach, however, results in heavier components.\n\nThe custom molds were designed using CAD, and the accompanying drawings are available in the download files. These molds were plasma cut from 4 mm (0.16 inches) steel sheets. The mold sides featured alignment steps to ease assembly; however, due to the imprecision of the plasma cutter, significant manual finishing was required.\n\nThe remaining fabrication—assembling, bending, welding, drilling, and bolting—was completed internally. To prevent deformation under pressure, reinforcement brackets were installed on the sides.\n\nNote: For future welding, we recommend cutting the metal parts with straight edges, omitting alignment steps, unless the cut quality is guaranteed. This approach simplifies the process and supports complete in-house fabrication, potentially reducing costs.\n\nTo extrude or inject into these parts, a fast, powerful extruder is necessary due to their large volume. Although we utilized an industrial extruder, an Extruder Pro (Design) may also be suitable, pending further testing. \n\nOur extruder filled the parts with approximately 33-44 pounds (15-20 kg) of plastic in 10-15 minutes. Due to noticeable shrinkage and air pockets, we modified the process and continued injecting plastic for an additional 1-2 minutes after it emerged from the relief holes, ensuring complete mold filling and achieving better compression.\n\nWe used 100% HDPE for our parts.\n\nNote: Assess the quality of your parts to determine if process adjustments are necessary. Weight can indicate the presence of air pockets.\n\n### Materials and Tools for Boat Building\n\n**Materials:**\n\n- **Plastic Parts:** Custom components for L-ribs, V-rib, and front/back sections.\n- **Lumber:** For base, hull, and interior, ideally at least 3 meters (9.8 feet) in length. Choose available strong materials.\n\n**Fixings:** Screws, bolts, and corking cotton.\n\n**Tools:**\n\n- **Standard Tools:** Saws, chisels, drill, screwdrivers, ruler, square.\n- **Specialty Tools:** Traditional dhow or boat-making tools.\n- **Heat Equipment:** Heat gun or welding tool, melting machine.\n\n**Space Requirements:** A flat area with a smooth floor facilitates easy collection of dust and particles.\n\n### Keel Leveling Instructions\n\n**Materials Required:**\n- Keel Plank: 9x2 inches (22.86x5.08 cm), 16 feet (4.88 meters) long\n- Base Logs: 5x5 inches (12.7x12.7 cm)\n\n**Tools Needed:**\n- Spirit Level\n- Hose Pipe\n\n**Procedure:**\n1. Divide the keel into five equal segments and position a log at each division.\n2. Position the keel plank, ensuring it is perfectly level.\n3. Secure the keel to the base using nails or pegs on both sides.\n4. Mark a center line on the keel to ensure proper alignment of subsequent components.\n\n**Note:** Plastic planks may exhibit bending or twisting. Apply weight to correct and level them.\n\n### Materials Needed\n- Mulis (2 units)\n- Temporary supporting poles (Mabunda)\n\n### Process\n\n1. **Mark Center Line:** Identify the front and back center lines on each Muli.\n \n2. **Shape Muli:** If warped, trim the long sides of the Muli to straighten and balance.\n\n3. **Cut Ribbet:** Tailor the ribbet according to the plank dimensions.\n\n4. **Determine Angles:** Select angles for positioning Mulis on the keel (45° front, 70° back).\n\n5. **Base Cutting:** Trim the Muli base to fit the selected angles.\n\n6. **Mark and Chisel:** Outline the Mulis on the keel, then chisel to a depth of 1/2 inch (1.27 cm) and assemble.\n\n7. **Support Mulis:** Stabilize with Mabundas affixed to sides and ends.\n\n8. **Alignment Check:** Use a plumb bob (Kabiru) to ensure Mulis align straight with the center.\n\n9. **Secure Position:** Drill through the Muli and keel; fasten with a nut and bolt.\n\n**Note:** A silicone sealant was applied between surfaces, with cotton wrapped around the bolt for added sealing.\n\n# Bitana Installation Guide\n\n## Purpose\nThe Bitana serves as a bracket to secure the Muli to the Keel.\n\n## Materials\n- Two L-shaped rib pieces\n\n## Instructions\n1. Shape each rib piece to align with the angle between the Muli and the keel.\n2. Taper the ribs to accommodate adjacent planks.\n3. Drill and bolt the ribs to both the Muli and the Keel.\n\nRepeat this process for both the front and back sides.\n\nCertainly.\n\n---\n\nYou can select varying widths based on the intended use of the boat. For comfortably transporting people, we decided on a width one-quarter of the length. It's useful to align the width with the available planks.\n\n### Materials\n- \"Mapande\" (wooden poles)\n- A flexible, thin piece of wood or plastic for temporary \"kinara\" (top plank of the hull)\n\n### Process\n1. Attach Mapande at the boat's widest point.\n2. Shape the boat with thin planks.\n3. Use a rope or ruler/tape measure to ensure equal width on both sides.\n4. Position the remaining Mapande on the base beams.\n5. Fix the temporary \"kinara\" on the Mapande to maintain shape.\n6. Use \"Mitindikani\" (horizontal poles) to secure the position.\n\n---\n\n## Materials:\n- L-shape ribs (14x)\n\n## Process:\n1. Arrange ribs in pairs with 30.5 cm (12 inches) between pairs.\n2. Ensure weight distribution is balanced front/back and left/right.\n3. Cut longer pieces to match the shape.\n4. Use a square to align ribs at a right angle to the keel.\n5. If pieces are warped, use a planer or saw for correction.\n6. Bolt ribs to the keel.\n7. Add cross poles to secure ribs.\n\nMaterials\n- V-shape ribs \"Farkumu\" (2x)\n\nInstructions:\n- Position the V-shape beam on the Bitana and create a lap joint to connect them.\n- Secure with a bolt through the keel.\n\n### Fitting the Hull\n\n**Materials:** 9x1.5\" (22.86x3.81 cm) planks, 10 pieces\n\n**Instructions:**\n\n1. **Prepare the Top Plank (Kinara):**\n - Mark and cut the bevel according to specifications.\n - Position and secure the plank using clamps. \n - Adjust ribs as needed for proper alignment.\n - Fasten the plank with screws.\n\n2. **Attach Additional Planks:**\n - Repeat the fitting process for the second piece.\n - Cut a Z-joint to connect the pieces securely.\n\n3. **Complete the Top Perimeter:**\n - Ensure the Kinara encircles the top on both sides.\n\nMaterials: 9x1.5\" planks (6 pcs)\n\n- Complete the remaining rows with the same method.\n- Unlike the top plank, a bevel joint may be used between the planks instead of a Z-joint.\n- Alternate joint positions to prevent weak points where joints align.\n\nEnsure all planks fit tightly with minimal gaps. Use a saw to trim uneven edges if necessary.\n\n### Materials\n\n- Tampisi: 2x3 inches (5.1x7.6 cm) planks (4 pieces)\n- Fundo la mongoti (crossing beam for the mast): 9x2 inches (22.9x5.1 cm)\n- Fundo la nyuma (back crossing beam): 9x1.5 inches (22.9x3.8 cm)\n\n### Process\n\n1. Cut a step into the ribs to ensure the tampisi and firari fit flush against the sides.\n2. Place the tampisi onto the step and secure it with screws.\n3. Position \"fundo la mongoti\" atop the tampisi at one-third of the keel from the front.\n4. Position \"fundo la nyuma\" atop the tampisi at the desired location in the back.\n5. Create lap joints between the Tampisi and Fundos, securing with bolts.\n\nStaha is designed to reinforce the Muli to Kinara, providing both seating and storage.\n\nMaterials Required:\n- 9x1.5\" (22.9x3.8 cm) plank\n- 2x4\" (5.1x10.2 cm) plank\n\nProcess:\nFRONT STAHA\n- Trim the top of the muli to align with the top plank.\n- Position a 2x4\" (5.1x10.2 cm) beam perpendicularly to the center line for support.\n- Cut planks to fit over the boat's front triangle.\n\nBACK STAHA\n- Fit two planks to create a seating base, leaving an opening for rope attachment.\n\nFirari and Dufani reinforce the top edges and structure. \n\nMaterials: \n- Dufani (5x1\", 4 pieces)\n- Firari (2.5x1\", 4 pieces)\n\nFirari Process: \n1. Position Firari at the top of the structure and shave them to level with Dufani.\n2. Ensure the distance between Firari and adjacent parts is parallel.\n3. Join the planks with a bevel joint and secure with screws.\n\nDufani Process: \n1. Cut the front angle for a proper fit at the corners.\n2. Bend the plank gradually: clamp the first foot (approx. 12\"), screw in place, then continue bending and securing every foot until fully bent.\n3. Repeat the process from the opposite end, meeting in the center with a bevel joint.\n\nFlip the dhow to complete the base.\n\nEnsure you create a water channel on both sides. \n\nCut the planks to match the base's shape, minimizing gaps.\n\nSecure them to the ribs. Base complete.\n\n### Finalizing and Sealing the Dhow\n\n1. Trim the excess corners of the planks to smooth the hull's surface.\n2. Use traditional caulking with cotton, inserting it between plank gaps with a \"chembeo.\"\n3. Complete the process by sealing with melted plastic using a heat gun, a method akin to plastic welding.\n4. Apply plastic welding to seal screws and other gaps.\n\n**Note:** The plastic welding used was rudimentary and requires further testing. Results from using a specialized plastic welding tool will be shared in the future.\n\nAfter completing the hull and initial sealing, it's time for testing:\n\n- Invert the boat\n- Launch into water or fill it\n- Identify any leaks by observing water entry points\n- Complete sealing at those locations\n\nCongratulations, you have completed the initial steps.\n\nNow choose your boat's propulsion method: motor, paddles, or sail.\n\nOur preference is a sail with a rudder. We used traditional wooden mast and boom. A visually striking sail can also serve as an attention-grabber.\n\n# Tutorial Conclusion\n\nEncourage others and share your experience. If you pursue a similar project or find inspiration in this, please inform us. We welcome your feedback.\n\nAlways keep a tool handy to remove water. Even if it's not entering from below, it may be entering with the waves.", - "keywords": "Flipflopi Project, boat-building course, waste plastic, fishing dhow, unique construction, traditional methods, HDPE plastic, CAD molds, extrusion process, boat fabrication", - "resources": "### Software\n\n- CAD software for mold design\n\n### Hardware\n\n- Plasma cutter (4 mm steel sheets)\n- Industrial extruder (e.g., Extruder Pro)\\\n The reason is because\n- High-power heat gun or plastic welding tool\n- Drilling and bolting equipment\n- Melting machine for HDPE processing\n\n### Tools\n\n- Standard tools (saws, chisels, drill, screwdrivers, ruler, square)\n- Spirit level and hose pipe for keel alignment\n- Plumb bob (Kabiru) and chembeo (caulking tool)\n- Clamps and planer for plank shaping\n- Traditional dhow boat-making tools", - "references": "## References\n\n### Articles\n\n- [The Flipflopi Project: Mitigating Plastic Pollution through Heritage Boat Building](https://smepprogramme.org/project/the-flipflopi-project/)\n- ~~[Flipflopi turns plastic waste into beautiful Kenyan boats](https://inhabitat.com/flipflopi-turns-plastic-waste-into-beautiful-kenyan-boats/)~~\n- [Closing the Loop on Waste Plastics Through Heritage Boat Building](https://www.unesco.org/en/articles/closing-loop-waste-plastics-through-heritage-boat-building)\n- [Meet the 'plastic revolutionaries' of Kenya and Uganda](https://www.whatdesigncando.com/stories/meet-the-plastic-revolutionaries-of-kenya-and-uganda/)\n\n### YouTube\n\n- [Making Dhow (Arab Boat)](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QdwYZv_fgf0)\n- [How to build a canoe from plastic waste](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ku3btzZyBPA)\n- [The Flipflopi Expedition: An Overview](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JcBajK5gjC0)\n\n### Open-source Designs\n\n- [Boat Build Toolkit](https://www.theflipflopi.com/blog/launching-the-boat-build-toolkit)\n- [Boatbuilding Toolkit](https://www.theflipflopi.com/boatbuilding-toolkit)\n- Build a 'Flipflopi' boat\n- [The Flipflopi Project Documentation](https://static1.squarespace.com/static/591594fa5016e15d0cf9453c/t/633ed2675b96e34a1d6e0f9f/1665061653166/Introducing+The+Flipflopi2022.pdf)\n\n### Papers\n\n- [Material Analysis Report](https://tinyurl.com/flipflopi-material-analysis)", - "brief": "Learn sustainable boat-building with Flipflopi Project's innovative course, turning plastic waste into a traditional fishing dhow for eco-friendly maritime skills." + "content": "YAP YAP!\nAt the Flipflopi Project we piloted a first of its kind heritage boat building course, using waste plastic as the major construction material. As a major practical project the students built a local fishing dhow “Dau la Mwao” which is a very commonly used vessel and a doable size for a short boat building course.\n\nThis how-to shows the process and learnings we made along the way ⛵️\n\n\nUser Location: Lamu, Kenya\n\nFirst sit back and watch the full process so you can get an idea :)\n\nBoatbuilding is a skill that needs a lot of practice and experience, but with this video and the following how-to steps, you might actually be able to build your own! ⛵️\n\nLet's see!\n\nFor this boat, we took an example and measurement of an existing traditional fishing canoe and made designs for moulds to fabricate the required parts. \n\nAlthough we could design very differently (potentially more efficiently) with plastic, we decided to stick as much as possible to the original design, as this enables boatbuilders to use their traditional building approach and helps to teach and maintain their boatbuilding heritage.\n\nFor efficient use of materials, our moulds were designed with multi-use in mind (so the L-shape rib can be used as an L-shape bracket to reinforce different parts in a bigger dhow, or a “Muli” mould was long enough to serve for the canoe as well as the slightly bigger Taxi dhow). Note, that this also resulted in heavier parts than necessarily required.\n\nThe custom moulds were designed in CAD and the drawings (you can find them in the download files) were sent to the be plasma cut out of 4mm steel sheets.\n\nThe sides of the moulds were designed with alignment steps, to make assembly easier (due to an unclean cutting of the plasma cutter this resulted in a lot of manual post-processing work and unclean edges though).\n\nThe rest was fabricated in-house: Assembling, bending, welding, drilling and bolting. To avoid swelling of the mould under pressure, reinforcement brackets were added to the sides.\n\nNOTE: For future welding jobs, we would cut the sides of the metal parts straight (without alignment steps), unless we are 100% sure about the quality of the cutting. This simplifies the process and even allows us to fabricate completely in-house, making the process more affordable at the same time.\n\n\n\nTo extrude / inject into these parts you will need quite a fast and powerful Extruder, as they have quite a big volume. We are using an industrial extruder, but an Extruder Pro ([filtered] Design) could also work (to be tested!).\n\nWith our extruder, we filled the parts in about 10-15min with 15-20kg of plastic. As we noticed a lot of shrinkage and air pockets in the material, we adjusted the process and continued injecting plastic for 1-2 more minutes once the plastic came out the relief holes (indicating that the mould was full) to achieve more compression.\n\nWe used 100% HDPE for our parts.\n\nLEARNING: Make sure to check the quality of your parts to know if you need to adjust anything in the process. The weight is a good indication for the likeliness of airpocket inside.\n\nTime to prepare all your materials and tools for boat building. This is what you'll need:\n\nPlastic material: \n- Custom parts for the L-ribs, V-rib and front/back \"muli\"\n- Lumber for the base, hull and interior (ideally min. 3m long)\nYou don't have to choose exactly the same sizes - have a look what you have available that can be strong enough\n\nFixings: screws and bolts, corking cotton\n\nTools: \n- standard working tools: saws, chisels, drill, screwdrivers, ruler, square\n- traditional dhow/boat making tools (see image)\n- heat gun (or welding gun) / melting machine\n\nSpace: Use a flat space with smooth floor to make it easy to collect the plastic dust / particles.\n\n\n\nFirst very important step is to level your keel (\"Utako\") as all your next steps will be based and relying this straightness and level.\n\nMaterial used: \n- Keel Plank (9x2\", 16ft long)\n- Base logs (5x5\")\n\nLevelling tools: Spirit Level and Hose pipe\n\nProcess:\n- divide the keel length into 5 and put a log at every fifth\n- place the keel and make sure all is level\n- fix the keel to the base with nails (or pegs) on both sides\n- mark the center line on your keel, to align all coming parts to your center\n\nNote: Plastic planks can sometimes have a bend or twist. You can help bring them on one level by adding weight.\n\nMaterials used: Mulis (2x) and temporary supporting poles (\"Mabunda\")\n\nProcess:\n- mark the center line on the front and back side of your muli\n- if your muli is a bit warped, shape it on both long sides, so that its straight and symmetric\n- cut a ribbet according to the size of your planks\n- choose the angles for your Mulis to sit on the keel (we chose 45° in the front, and 70° in the back)\n- cut the base of your muli according to the needed angle\n- mark the shape of the Mulis on your keel and chisel it out (about 1/2\" deep) and join them\n- support the Mulis by adding Mabundas on the sides and the end\n- use your Kabiru (plumb bob) to ensure your Mulis are straight and aligned to the center\n- to fix the mulis in place, drill a hole through Muli and keel and join with a nut an bolt\n\nNote: We used silicone between the surfaces and cotton around the bolt to seal the joint.\n\n\nThe Bitana is a bracket reinforcement to hold the Muli to the Keel.\n\nMaterials:\n- L-shape rib pieces (2x)\n\nProcess:\n- shape the Rib piece to fit the angle of the Muli to the keel\n- make it tapered so the planks can go alongside\n- drill and bolt it to the Muli and the Keel\n\nDo this on the front and the back side.\n\n\nYou can choose different widths depending on how you want to use the boat. To be able to transport people comfortably, we chose the width to be a quarter of the length. It helps to choose the width according to the planks you have available.\n\nMaterials:\n- \"Mapande\" (wooden poles)\n- thin and long easily bending piece of wood/plastic for temporary \"kinara\" (top plank of the hull)\n\nProcess:\n- attach Mapande at the widest point of the dhow\n- create the rough shape with thin planks\n- use a rope (or ruler/tape measure) to confirm equal width between both sides\n- put rest of Mapande in place on the remaining base beams\n- fixate your temporary \"kinara\" on the Mapande to keep the shape\n- secure the position with \"Mitindikani\" - horizontal poles to keep the distance\n\n\n\n\nMaterials:\n- L-shape ribs (14x)\n\nProcess:\n- place your ribs in place (in pairs) with equal distances to each other (we chose a distance of 12\" between the pairs)\n- if the parts vary in weight, make sure you distribute them so the weight is balanced (front/back, left/right)\n- now cut the longer pieces according to the shape\n- use a square to make sure the ribs sit in a right angle to the keel\n- if there is warping/uneven sides of your pieces, use a shoka or saw to make them sit alongside nicely\n- bolt the ribs to the keel\n- place mitindikani (crossing poles) to keep the ribs in place\n\n\n\nMaterials \n- V-shape ribs \"Farkumu\" (2x)\n\n- The V-shape beam sits on the Bitana. To join them, make a lap joint between Bitana and Farkumu.\n- Join them with a bolt through the keel\n\n\nTHIS STEP TAKES A LOT OF TIME TO MAKE THE HULL FIT WELL.\n\nMaterial: 9x1,5\" x 10pcs\n\nStart with Kinara (top plank)\n- mark and cut the bevel according to Muli \n- place plank in place and clamp it (we use our local technique \"kisongo\") \n- if necessary, adjust the ribs, so they are aligned nicely\n- fix in place with screws\n- take the second piece, repeat fitting and cut a Z-joint to join the pieces\nDo this on both sides, so the Kinara is all around the top.\n\n\nMaterials: 9x1.5\" planks (6pcs)\n\n- finish the other rows with the same process\n- in contrast to top plank (kinara), you can use a bevel joint between the planks instead of Z-joint\n-alternate the position of your joints as otherwise it creates a week point where all the joints are\n\nMAKE SURE ALL PLANKS ARE FITTED TIGHTLY, SO THERE IS AS LITTLE GAP AS POSSIBLE.\n(you can use a saw in between to cut of uneven corners)\n\nNext step is to lock everything well in place with side strips and crossing beams\n\nMaterial:\n- Tampisi: 2x3\" planks (4pcs)\n- Fundo la mongoti (crossing beam for the mast): 9x2\"\n- Fundo la nyuma (back crossing beam): 9x1.5\"\n\nProcess:\n- we cut a step into the ribs to make the tampisi and firari sit flush on the sides\n- place the tampisi onto the step and fix in place with screws\n- place a the \"fundo la mongoti\" on top of the tampisi at 1/3 of the keel from the front\n- place \"fundo la nyuma\" on top of the tampisi in the back (where desired)\n- make lap joints between Tampisi + Fundos and bolt them together\n\n\n\n\nStaha is to reinforce the Muli to Kinara (and to provide sitting area and storage)\n\nUsed materials:\n- 9x1,5\" plank\n- 2x4\" plank \n\nProcess:\nFRONT STAHA\n- cut the top of the muli so its extending the line of the top plank\n- place a 2x4\" beam to support in a right angle to the center line as support\n- cut planks to cover the front triangle of the boat\n\nBACK STAHA\n- we simply fitted 2 planks to make a sitting base (and left a hole as it can be useful to fix ropes etc.)\n\nFirari and Dufani are the top to finish off the top edges and reinforce the structure once more.\n\nMaterials: Dufani (5x1\", 4pcs), Firari (2.5x1\", 4pcs)\n\nProcess Firari:\n- position the Firari at the top of the mataruma (and shave them so the Dufani can sit levelled)\n- try to keep the distance between tampisi and firari parallel\n- join the planks with a bevel joint and screw them in place\n\nProcess Dufani:\n- start by cutting the angle in the front so it attaches well into the front/back corner\n- for bending the plank, go \"pole pole\" (slowly slowly): \n clamp the first foot (30cm) and screw it in place, then bend the plank, screw the next foot, etc. until it is completely bent\n- do the same from the other end and meet in the center with a bevel joint \n\nTime to turn your dhow upside down to finish the base!\n\nImportant! \nDon't forget to create a water channel on both sides for the water to pass through. (see photo)\n\nCut your planks according to the shape of your base, and make sure to fit them with as little as gap as possible.\n\nScrew them onto the ribs. Base is done :)\n\n\nNow last step remaining is to finish and seal the dhow, so no water can enter inside.\n\n- shave the excess corners of the planks to smoothen the surface of the hull \n- we used the traditional corking with cotton and hit it inbetween the gaps of the planks with the \"chembeo\"\n- to finalise, we topped up the kalafati with melted plastic with a heat gun to seal it completely (it's like plastic welding)\n- with the plastic welding we also sealed the screws and other gaps\n\nNOTE: The plastic welding was done very low-tech and is to be tested!\nWe hope to test a proper plastic welding tool soon for the sealing of the hull and will share the results :)\n\nBig moment! When you're done with the hull and first round of sealing, it's time to test:\n\n- turn the boat around\n- launch it in the water (or fill it with water) \n- observe where the water is passing through gaps to find any leakage\n- finalise the sealing on those points\n\nAlright, you're basically done!\n\nYou can now decide how you want to power your boat:\nWith a motor, paddles, or a sail?\n\nWe are sailors, so we obviously put a sail, with a rudder. (The mast and boom are traditional ones out of wood)\nAdditional bonus if you use a sail: Make it an eye catcher and use the opportunity to create awareness ✨\n\nNow go out there, inspire others, tell them the story (and to join the fight against plastic pollution), and enjoy!\n\nIf you get to this point or it inspires you to do something similar, please let us know, we'd be so happy (you can tag us on social media with @​​​​​​​theflipflopi)\n\nOh, and always have something with you to bale out water - even if no water is coming in from the bottom, it might be coming in with the waves :)" } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/build-a-flipflopi-boat/README.md b/howtos/build-a-flipflopi-boat/README.md index 1acf2addd..fe3f65e5b 100644 --- a/howtos/build-a-flipflopi-boat/README.md +++ b/howtos/build-a-flipflopi-boat/README.md @@ -1,38 +1,38 @@ --- title: Build a 'Flipflopi' boat slug: build-a-flipflopi-boat -description: The Flipflopi is a sailing boat constructed from recycled plastic and flip-flops gathered in Kenya. +description: The Flipflopi is a sailing boat made from 100% recycled plastic and flip-flops collected from the streets and beaches in Kenya. -Here, we share its construction process and insights gained. +Here we want to share how it was made and what we learned on the way. tags: ["product","research","extrusion"] category: Guides difficulty: Very Hard time: 1+ months -keywords: Flipflopi, recycled plastic boat, Kenya, sustainable sailing, alternative materials, boat construction, plastic pollution, eco-friendly, experimental prototype, Lamu boat builder +keywords: location: Lamu, Kenya --- # Build a 'Flipflopi' boat ![Build a 'Flipflopi' boat](flipflopi-sailing-front-2.jpg) -The Flipflopi is a sailing boat constructed from recycled plastic and flip-flops gathered in Kenya. +The Flipflopi is a sailing boat made from 100% recycled plastic and flip-flops collected from the streets and beaches in Kenya. -Here, we share its construction process and insights gained. +Here we want to share how it was made and what we learned on the way. User Location: Lamu, Kenya ## Steps ### Step 1: Intro -This boat is a prototype, the first of its kind. The methods used were experimental and imperfect. Use this as a learning tool and for inspiration. +First off, this boat is a first of its kind, a prototype. The processes we used were done for the first time and are not perfect (far from that!). So don’t take this as a guide to copy identically but more as something to learn from and and to get inspired :) ![flipflopi-howto-step1.jpg](./flipflopi-howto-step1.jpg) ### Step 2: Get a boatbuilder -## How to Build a Boat with Alternative Materials +Okay, so it all started with finding a local boat builder, who was confident and visionary enough to believe that we could build a boat from a totally different material than what they were used to. -We began by collaborating with a local boat builder, Ali Skanda from Lamu, who was open to using unconventional materials. He and his team applied their expertise to this new challenge. +Ali Skanda, from Lamu, was our man and gathered his boatbuilder team to apply their knowledge to a new material. -It is advisable to partner with experienced boat builders to focus on integrating new materials into existing processes without the added complexity of mastering boat construction. +We definitely recommend finding someone who knows how to build boats, so you can focus on learning how to use plastic for already existing processes, instead of trying to learn another complex skill on top of that! ![flipflopi-howto-step2-1.JPG](./flipflopi-howto-step2-1.JPG) @@ -45,11 +45,11 @@ It is advisable to partner with experienced boat builders to focus on integratin ### Step 3: Make a plan -We collaborated with Ali Skanda to design a boat and outline the necessary components and joineries. +With Ali Skanda we made a plan and designed the boat, to get an idea of the required components and joineries. -The aim is to construct a boat large enough to convey the message against single-use plastic and plastic pollution globally. +The goal originally was (and still is), to build a boat which would be big enough to travel the message to fight single-use plastic and plastic pollution around the world. -Below are sketches providing an overview of the parts. +Here some of the sketches to get an overview of the parts. ![BoatBuild-1.jpg](./BoatBuild-1.jpg) @@ -62,11 +62,11 @@ Below are sketches providing an overview of the parts. ### Step 4: Test manufacturers & materials -In our effort to produce everything locally in Kenya, a significant challenge was establishing collaborations with manufacturers capable of delivering quality materials consistently. +As the approach was to have everything made locally in Kenya, a big challenge was (still is) to find collaborations with recycling manufacturers who deliver quality materials, reliably. -Initially, manufacturers mixed different plastics or added substances like sawdust or sand as stiffeners. We succeeded in having them work with a single type of plastic without additives. An essential step in this process involved obtaining material samples and testing the joinery for boat construction. +We started at at point where they were mixing plastic types together or even add sawdust or sand (as a “stiffener”) and it’s already a success to have them working with only one type of plastic, without anything else mixed in. Part of this was getting material samples and testing joineries which would be used in the boat. -Starting with samples can help save time and reduce costs before ordering larger quantities of materials. +Starting with samples can save you a lot of time and costs, before ordering a bigger amount of materials. ![flipflopi-howto-step4-2.JPG](./flipflopi-howto-step4-2.JPG) @@ -79,11 +79,11 @@ Starting with samples can help save time and reduce costs before ordering larger ### Step 5: Start building -Having established the procedures, we began manufacturing components for a 79-foot (24-meter) boat. The parts were substantial. +With the processes more or less figured out, we started producing the recycled parts for a 24m boat - They were HUGE. -Although the quality was quite basic, it demonstrated feasibility. Given the novelty and significant investment involved, we opted to build a smaller 33-foot (10-meter) prototype first. +The quality was very rough, but it was good to see that it was possible. And as this hasn’t been done before and was going to be a big investment, we decided to make a smaller 10m prototype first. -Next, we will detail how we created the Flipflopi Dogo ("dogo" means "small" in Kiswahili). + So in the next step you'll see how we actually made the Flipflopi Dogo (“dogo” = “small” in Kiswahili). ![flipflopi-howto-step5-2.jpg](./flipflopi-howto-step5-2.jpg) @@ -93,15 +93,13 @@ Next, we will detail how we created the Flipflopi Dogo ("dogo" means "small" in ### Step 6: The big parts -### Overview of Production Process +The production of the BIG PARTS like keel and ribs was one of the biggest challenges. We managed to work with what we could get, with a lot of space for improvements! -The production of major components like the keel and ribs posed significant challenges. We utilized available resources, acknowledging potential areas for improvement. +We collaborated with the closest plastic recycling manufacturer Regeneration Africa in Malindi, where they usually produce fencing posts and tiles. -We worked with a plastic manufacturer in Malindi known for producing fencing posts and tiles. +Here is an overview of their process. (second image). We made over 30 metal moulds for different boat parts which were filled this way, using HDPE which is the most common and easiest type to collect separately (after PET). -Below is an overview of their process. We created over 30 metal molds for various boat parts, using HDPE, a commonly collected material. - -Sam and his team were instrumental in exploring different processes and materials. +Sam and his team were a huge help to explore and figure out different processes and materials! ![FF-boatbuilding-process-1.png](./FF-boatbuilding-process-1.png) @@ -114,7 +112,12 @@ Sam and his team were instrumental in exploring different processes and material ### Step 7: The planks -For the planks, we collaborated with manufacturers in Nairobi who also produce fencing posts and other construction materials. It is common to add sawdust to the material to increase stiffness and reduce costs, although this mix is more prone to breaking than pure plastic. After several attempts, we successfully created planks made from 100% recycled plastic. These planks were produced using industrial machines but can also be made with the Extrusion Pro. +For the planks we collaborated with other manufacturers in Nairobi, which also produce fencing posts as well as other construction material. + +It's a quite common practice there to mix in sawdust to make the material stiffer and cheaper to produce (but that material mix also breaks much easier than pure plastic). It took a couple of attempts, but in the end we managed to get the 100% recycled plastic planks. + +These planks were produced with professional, industrial machines, but could definitely be made with the [filtered] Extrusion Pro as well! +(Extrusion Pro: ![flipflopi-dogo-42-.jpg](./flipflopi-dogo-42-.jpg) @@ -124,15 +127,11 @@ For the planks, we collaborated with manufacturers in Nairobi who also produce f ### Step 8: The flip-flop sheets -Certainly. Here is the revised text: +40% of all the waste collected on the beaches were flip-flops. This is where the project got its name from and why flip-flops were an obligatory element of this boat. ---- +So we covered the whole boat with sheets of recycled flip-flops, giving it a very colourful look and adding an extra protective layer (the whole boat feels like a big yoga mat :)) -Forty percent of the waste collected on beaches consisted of flip-flops, inspiring the project's name and their inclusion in the boat's design. - -The entire boat was covered with sheets of flip-flops, providing a colorful appearance and an additional protective layer resembling a large yoga mat. - -These sheets were crafted by local artist James, who cuts the flip-flops into pieces, glues them, and sands them into even sheets. +The sheets were made by local flipflop artist James who cuts the flip-flops into pieces, glues them together and sands them to an even sheet. ![flipflopi howto-flipflops-1.jpg](./flipflopi_howto-flipflops-1.jpg) @@ -145,13 +144,11 @@ These sheets were crafted by local artist James, who cuts the flip-flops into pi ### Step 9: The boat build -## How to Build the Boat +Time to build the boat! Starting with the keel, the ribs and connection parts, then making the hull with the extruded planks, and finishing with the colourful Flipflop sheets. -Begin with constructing the keel, ribs, and connection parts, followed by forming the hull with extruded planks, and conclude with the Flipflop sheets. + Other than using this new material, the boatbuilders made the boat in their traditional way, meaning that they used very basic tools (every screw was inserted with a hand drill and a screwdriver!). -The boatbuilders adhered to traditional methods, using fundamental tools, where screws were inserted with a hand drill and screwdriver. - -This hands-on expertise requires a skilled boatbuilder. +This is obviously something we won't be able to teach you here - that's what you need a boatbuilder for! :) ![flipflopi-dogo-36.JPG](./flipflopi-dogo-36.JPG) @@ -164,11 +161,11 @@ This hands-on expertise requires a skilled boatbuilder. ### Step 10: Sail and inspire! -The next step involved adding parts from other sailing boats, such as the mast, boom, sail, and ropes. With these additions, the boat was ready for its intended purpose: sailing. +Alright, now we only had to add (second hand) parts from other sailing boats like the mast, boom, sail and ropes. And were finally ready to do what the boat was meant to be for: Sailing around Kenya to create awareness around the problem and inspire local communities to be part of a positive change! -On our maiden voyage, the boat successfully sailed over 310 miles (500 km) from northern Kenya to Zanzibar, safely transporting passengers and capturing interest along the route. +On our first expedition the boat sailed smoothly for more than 500km from the north of Kenya to Zanzibar, carried its passengers safely while creating excitement and fascination everywhere we went! -**Important:** Ensure your boat is seaworthy. You are responsible for the safety of yourself and your passengers. +❗️IMPORTANT: Definitely test and check your boat if it's seaworthy! You'll be responsible for your passengers and yourself, and don't want to risk your lives 🙏 ![FF-boatbuilding-process-7.jpg](./FF-boatbuilding-process-7.jpg) @@ -181,79 +178,33 @@ On our maiden voyage, the boat successfully sailed over 310 miles (500 km) from ### Step 11: Things we learned -It was a significant endeavor with considerable learning, resulting in a functional boat. However, the process had room for improvement. +It was a big process with a lot of learning, and yes, the result is a functional boat - but the process was quite rough with a lot of space for improvement. -During this time, we conducted additional tests and analyzed material properties. A report is available here: [Material Analysis Report](tinyurl.com/flipflopi-material-analysis). +On the way we also made more tests and analysed the properties of the materials. +You can find a report here: +tinyurl.com/flipflopi-material-analysis -The document shared in Step 1 contains further details. +And the document we shared in Step 1 has everything with more details as well :) ![Screenshot 2020-10-07 at 19.08.43.png](./Screenshot_2020-10-07_at_19.08.43.png) ### Step 12: Join us! ⛵️ -### Project Update +We already reached hundreds of thousands locally and globally with our expedition and the story around the boat. It's a great tool to reach people in a positive way to push good changes. -We have successfully engaged numerous individuals worldwide with our expedition and its narrative, effectively fostering beneficial change. +So, we'll be building a much bigger boat which can sail longer distances and reach millions! There is still a lot to improve and figure out for a boat of that size! But as Ali Skanda says: "Kila kitu inaweze kana." - Everything is possible :) -Our next step is to construct a larger vessel capable of navigating greater distances and reaching a broader audience. This ambitious project presents several challenges, but as Ali Skanda notes, "Kila kitu inawezekana" – everything is possible. +Hope this was insightful or at least a bit inspiring 🙃 -For inquiries or to support our endeavors, please contact theflipflopi@gmail.com or consider supporting us at [patreon.com/theflipflopi](https://www.patreon.com/theflipflopi). +Want to get involved? ✉️ theflipflopi@​gmail.com +Or become a supporter (yay!) 👐 +patreon.com: patreon.com/theflipflopi -If you create a similar vessel, we encourage you to share your achievements with us. +And if you end up building a similar boat, make sure to share it! (@​theflipflopi) ![kubwa-next.jpg](./kubwa-next.jpg) ## Resources -### Tools - -- Hand drill (manual screw insertion) -- Screwdriver (traditional assembly) -- Sanding tools (flip-flop sheet preparation) -- Metal molds (30+ for boat components) -- Extrusion Pro (plank production) - -### Hardware - -- Recycled HDPE plastic (primary material) -- 100% recycled plastic planks (local manufacturing) -- Recycled flip-flop sheets (protective outer layer) -- Sailboat components: mast, boom, sail, ropes -- Material testing equipment (sample validation) · [Report](https://tinyurl.com/flipflopi-material-analysis) - -### Software - -*No software explicitly mentioned in the production process.* - -### Additional Resources - -- Local plastic manufacturers (Malindi/Nairobi partnerships) -- Traditional boatbuilding expertise (Lamu craftsmanship) -- ~~[Project Contact](mailto:theflipflopi@gmail.com)~~ · [Support](https://www.patreon.com/theflipflopi) -## References -## Articles - -- [Boat made from 100% recycled plastic sets sail in Kenya](https://www.climateaction.org/news/boat-made-from-100-recycled-plastic-sets-sail-in-kenya) -- [Flip-flop-clad boat brings plastic recycling message to East African coast](https://news.mongabay.com/2019/03/flip-flop-clad-boat-brings-plastic-recycling-message-to-east-african-coast/) -- [FLIPFLOPI: the world’s first sailing boat made from plastic waste](https://www.entreprenanteafrique.com/en/flipflopi-the-worlds-first-sailing-boat-made-entirely-from-plastic-waste/) -- [The Flipflopi Project: Mitigating Plastic Pollution through Heritage Boat Building](https://smepprogramme.org/project/the-flipflopi-project/) -- [A sailboat made from flip-flops tackles Africa's largest lake](https://www.unep.org/news-and-stories/story/sailboat-made-partially-flip-flops-takes-africas-biggest-lake) -- [Imagining Water 11: The Flipflopi Project](https://artistsandclimatechange.com/2018/07/23/imagining-water-11-the-flipflopi-project/) - -## Books - -- *Flipflopi: How a Boat Made from Flip-Flops Is Helping to Save the Ocean* by Linda R. Lodding & Dipesh Pabari ([Africa Access Review](https://africaaccessreview.org/2023/11/flipflopi-how-a-boat-made-from-flip-flops-is-helping-to-save-the-ocean/)) - -## Papers - -- *Prevalence and characterisation of microfibres along the Kenyan and Tanzanian coast* ([Northumbria University](https://newsroom.northumbria.ac.uk/pressreleases/world-tour-for-model-boat-inspiring-citizen-science-against-environmental-pollution-3249917), [EurekAlert](https://www.eurekalert.org/news-releases/988003)) - -## YouTube - -- [The Flipflopi Expedition: An Overview](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JcBajK5gjC0) - -## Opensource Designs - -- Build a 'Flipflopi' boat - [filtered] Academy -- [Flipflopi Boat Build Toolkit](https://www.theflipflopi.com/blog/launching-the-boat-build-toolkit) \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/build-a-flipflopi-boat/config.json b/howtos/build-a-flipflopi-boat/config.json index f870439fa..6d167444d 100644 --- a/howtos/build-a-flipflopi-boat/config.json +++ b/howtos/build-a-flipflopi-boat/config.json @@ -41,7 +41,7 @@ "tudi" ], "files": [], - "description": "The Flipflopi is a sailing boat constructed from recycled plastic and flip-flops gathered in Kenya. \n\nHere, we share its construction process and insights gained.", + "description": "The Flipflopi is a sailing boat made from 100% recycled plastic and flip-flops collected from the streets and beaches in Kenya. \n\nHere we want to share how it was made and what we learned on the way.", "_modified": "2024-02-01T16:07:08.082Z", "_createdBy": "the-flipflopi", "title": "Build a 'Flipflopi' boat", @@ -69,12 +69,12 @@ "alt": "flipflopi-howto-step1.jpg" } ], - "text": "This boat is a prototype, the first of its kind. The methods used were experimental and imperfect. Use this as a learning tool and for inspiration.", + "text": "First off, this boat is a first of its kind, a prototype. The processes we used were done for the first time and are not perfect (far from that!). So don’t take this as a guide to copy identically but more as something to learn from and and to get inspired :)", "title": "Intro" }, { "title": "Get a boatbuilder", - "text": "## How to Build a Boat with Alternative Materials\n\nWe began by collaborating with a local boat builder, Ali Skanda from Lamu, who was open to using unconventional materials. He and his team applied their expertise to this new challenge.\n\nIt is advisable to partner with experienced boat builders to focus on integrating new materials into existing processes without the added complexity of mastering boat construction.", + "text": "Okay, so it all started with finding a local boat builder, who was confident and visionary enough to believe that we could build a boat from a totally different material than what they were used to.\n\nAli Skanda, from Lamu, was our man and gathered his boatbuilder team to apply their knowledge to a new material. \n\nWe definitely recommend finding someone who knows how to build boats, so you can focus on learning how to use plastic for already existing processes, instead of trying to learn another complex skill on top of that!", "images": [ { "name": "flipflopi-howto-step2-1.JPG", @@ -156,10 +156,10 @@ ], "_animationKey": "unique3", "title": "Make a plan", - "text": "We collaborated with Ali Skanda to design a boat and outline the necessary components and joineries.\n\nThe aim is to construct a boat large enough to convey the message against single-use plastic and plastic pollution globally.\n\nBelow are sketches providing an overview of the parts." + "text": "With Ali Skanda we made a plan and designed the boat, to get an idea of the required components and joineries.\n\nThe goal originally was (and still is), to build a boat which would be big enough to travel the message to fight single-use plastic and plastic pollution around the world. \n\nHere some of the sketches to get an overview of the parts." }, { - "text": "In our effort to produce everything locally in Kenya, a significant challenge was establishing collaborations with manufacturers capable of delivering quality materials consistently.\n\nInitially, manufacturers mixed different plastics or added substances like sawdust or sand as stiffeners. We succeeded in having them work with a single type of plastic without additives. An essential step in this process involved obtaining material samples and testing the joinery for boat construction.\n\nStarting with samples can help save time and reduce costs before ordering larger quantities of materials.", + "text": "As the approach was to have everything made locally in Kenya, a big challenge was (still is) to find collaborations with recycling manufacturers who deliver quality materials, reliably. \n\nWe started at at point where they were mixing plastic types together or even add sawdust or sand (as a “stiffener”) and it’s already a success to have them working with only one type of plastic, without anything else mixed in. Part of this was getting material samples and testing joineries which would be used in the boat. \n\nStarting with samples can save you a lot of time and costs, before ordering a bigger amount of materials. ", "images": [ { "downloadUrl": "https://firebasestorage.googleapis.com/v0/b/onearmyworld.appspot.com/o/uploads%2Fhowtos%2FM40SkCtKKfiAgCGJCPn5%2Fflipflopi-howto-step4-2.JPG?alt=media&token=d4b29b70-fe94-4e1f-aa2b-0c1f9abdce70", @@ -203,7 +203,7 @@ }, { "title": "Start building", - "text": "Having established the procedures, we began manufacturing components for a 79-foot (24-meter) boat. The parts were substantial. \n\nAlthough the quality was quite basic, it demonstrated feasibility. Given the novelty and significant investment involved, we opted to build a smaller 33-foot (10-meter) prototype first.\n\nNext, we will detail how we created the Flipflopi Dogo (\"dogo\" means \"small\" in Kiswahili).", + "text": "With the processes more or less figured out, we started producing the recycled parts for a 24m boat - They were HUGE.\n\nThe quality was very rough, but it was good to see that it was possible. And as this hasn’t been done before and was going to be a big investment, we decided to make a smaller 10m prototype first. \n\n So in the next step you'll see how we actually made the Flipflopi Dogo (“dogo” = “small” in Kiswahili).", "images": [ { "type": "image/jpeg", @@ -235,7 +235,7 @@ { "title": "The big parts", "_animationKey": "uniquexq7xiw", - "text": "### Overview of Production Process\n\nThe production of major components like the keel and ribs posed significant challenges. We utilized available resources, acknowledging potential areas for improvement. \n\nWe worked with a plastic manufacturer in Malindi known for producing fencing posts and tiles. \n\nBelow is an overview of their process. We created over 30 metal molds for various boat parts, using HDPE, a commonly collected material. \n\nSam and his team were instrumental in exploring different processes and materials.", + "text": "The production of the BIG PARTS like keel and ribs was one of the biggest challenges. We managed to work with what we could get, with a lot of space for improvements! \n\nWe collaborated with the closest plastic recycling manufacturer Regeneration Africa in Malindi, where they usually produce fencing posts and tiles. \n\nHere is an overview of their process. (second image). We made over 30 metal moulds for different boat parts which were filled this way, using HDPE which is the most common and easiest type to collect separately (after PET). \n\nSam and his team were a huge help to explore and figure out different processes and materials!", "images": [ { "downloadUrl": "https://firebasestorage.googleapis.com/v0/b/onearmyworld.appspot.com/o/uploads%2Fhowtos%2FM40SkCtKKfiAgCGJCPn5%2FFF-boatbuilding-process-1.png?alt=media&token=2feb757a-eca9-40a3-8a27-8078e386bf4a", @@ -304,11 +304,11 @@ "alt": "flipflopi-howto-step6-1-.jpg" } ], - "text": "For the planks, we collaborated with manufacturers in Nairobi who also produce fencing posts and other construction materials. It is common to add sawdust to the material to increase stiffness and reduce costs, although this mix is more prone to breaking than pure plastic. After several attempts, we successfully created planks made from 100% recycled plastic. These planks were produced using industrial machines but can also be made with the Extrusion Pro." + "text": "For the planks we collaborated with other manufacturers in Nairobi, which also produce fencing posts as well as other construction material. \n\nIt's a quite common practice there to mix in sawdust to make the material stiffer and cheaper to produce (but that material mix also breaks much easier than pure plastic). It took a couple of attempts, but in the end we managed to get the 100% recycled plastic planks. \n\nThese planks were produced with professional, industrial machines, but could definitely be made with the [filtered] Extrusion Pro as well! \n(Extrusion Pro: " }, { "_animationKey": "uniquejg7ek", - "text": "Certainly. Here is the revised text:\n\n---\n\nForty percent of the waste collected on beaches consisted of flip-flops, inspiring the project's name and their inclusion in the boat's design.\n\nThe entire boat was covered with sheets of flip-flops, providing a colorful appearance and an additional protective layer resembling a large yoga mat.\n\nThese sheets were crafted by local artist James, who cuts the flip-flops into pieces, glues them, and sands them into even sheets.", + "text": "40% of all the waste collected on the beaches were flip-flops. This is where the project got its name from and why flip-flops were an obligatory element of this boat. \n\nSo we covered the whole boat with sheets of recycled flip-flops, giving it a very colourful look and adding an extra protective layer (the whole boat feels like a big yoga mat :))\n\nThe sheets were made by local flipflop artist James who cuts the flip-flops into pieces, glues them together and sands them to an even sheet.", "images": [ { "downloadUrl": "https://firebasestorage.googleapis.com/v0/b/onearmyworld.appspot.com/o/uploads%2Fhowtos%2FM40SkCtKKfiAgCGJCPn5%2Fflipflopi%20howto-flipflops-1.jpg?alt=media&token=25a96ed3-3b3d-47b4-9391-50f02d118f5f", @@ -390,10 +390,10 @@ "alt": "flipflopi-flipflopis.jpg" } ], - "text": "## How to Build the Boat\n\nBegin with constructing the keel, ribs, and connection parts, followed by forming the hull with extruded planks, and conclude with the Flipflop sheets.\n\nThe boatbuilders adhered to traditional methods, using fundamental tools, where screws were inserted with a hand drill and screwdriver.\n\nThis hands-on expertise requires a skilled boatbuilder." + "text": "Time to build the boat! Starting with the keel, the ribs and connection parts, then making the hull with the extruded planks, and finishing with the colourful Flipflop sheets. \n\n Other than using this new material, the boatbuilders made the boat in their traditional way, meaning that they used very basic tools (every screw was inserted with a hand drill and a screwdriver!). \n\nThis is obviously something we won't be able to teach you here - that's what you need a boatbuilder for! :) " }, { - "text": "The next step involved adding parts from other sailing boats, such as the mast, boom, sail, and ropes. With these additions, the boat was ready for its intended purpose: sailing. \n\nOn our maiden voyage, the boat successfully sailed over 310 miles (500 km) from northern Kenya to Zanzibar, safely transporting passengers and capturing interest along the route.\n\n**Important:** Ensure your boat is seaworthy. You are responsible for the safety of yourself and your passengers.", + "text": "Alright, now we only had to add (second hand) parts from other sailing boats like the mast, boom, sail and ropes. And were finally ready to do what the boat was meant to be for: Sailing around Kenya to create awareness around the problem and inspire local communities to be part of a positive change!\n\nOn our first expedition the boat sailed smoothly for more than 500km from the north of Kenya to Zanzibar, carried its passengers safely while creating excitement and fascination everywhere we went!\n\n❗️IMPORTANT: Definitely test and check your boat if it's seaworthy! You'll be responsible for your passengers and yourself, and don't want to risk your lives 🙏 ", "title": "Sail and inspire!", "images": [ { @@ -436,7 +436,7 @@ "_animationKey": "uniqueomm8dk" }, { - "text": "It was a significant endeavor with considerable learning, resulting in a functional boat. However, the process had room for improvement.\n\nDuring this time, we conducted additional tests and analyzed material properties. A report is available here: [Material Analysis Report](tinyurl.com/flipflopi-material-analysis).\n\nThe document shared in Step 1 contains further details.", + "text": "It was a big process with a lot of learning, and yes, the result is a functional boat - but the process was quite rough with a lot of space for improvement. \n\nOn the way we also made more tests and analysed the properties of the materials. \nYou can find a report here: \ntinyurl.com/flipflopi-material-analysis \n\nAnd the document we shared in Step 1 has everything with more details as well :)", "title": "Things we learned", "images": [ { @@ -456,7 +456,7 @@ }, { "_animationKey": "unique4pj07", - "text": "### Project Update\n\nWe have successfully engaged numerous individuals worldwide with our expedition and its narrative, effectively fostering beneficial change.\n\nOur next step is to construct a larger vessel capable of navigating greater distances and reaching a broader audience. This ambitious project presents several challenges, but as Ali Skanda notes, \"Kila kitu inawezekana\" – everything is possible.\n\nFor inquiries or to support our endeavors, please contact theflipflopi@gmail.com or consider supporting us at [patreon.com/theflipflopi](https://www.patreon.com/theflipflopi).\n\nIf you create a similar vessel, we encourage you to share your achievements with us.", + "text": "We already reached hundreds of thousands locally and globally with our expedition and the story around the boat. It's a great tool to reach people in a positive way to push good changes.\n\nSo, we'll be building a much bigger boat which can sail longer distances and reach millions! There is still a lot to improve and figure out for a boat of that size! But as Ali Skanda says: \"Kila kitu inaweze kana.\" - Everything is possible :) \n\nHope this was insightful or at least a bit inspiring 🙃 \n\nWant to get involved? ✉️ theflipflopi@​gmail.com \nOr become a supporter (yay!) 👐 \npatreon.com: patreon.com/theflipflopi\n\nAnd if you end up building a similar boat, make sure to share it! (@​theflipflopi)", "title": "Join us! ⛵️ ", "images": [ { @@ -592,9 +592,5 @@ "urls": [] } }, - "content": "The Flipflopi is a sailing boat constructed from recycled plastic and flip-flops gathered in Kenya. \n\nHere, we share its construction process and insights gained.\n\n\nUser Location: Lamu, Kenya\n\nThis boat is a prototype, the first of its kind. The methods used were experimental and imperfect. Use this as a learning tool and for inspiration.\n\n## How to Build a Boat with Alternative Materials\n\nWe began by collaborating with a local boat builder, Ali Skanda from Lamu, who was open to using unconventional materials. He and his team applied their expertise to this new challenge.\n\nIt is advisable to partner with experienced boat builders to focus on integrating new materials into existing processes without the added complexity of mastering boat construction.\n\nWe collaborated with Ali Skanda to design a boat and outline the necessary components and joineries.\n\nThe aim is to construct a boat large enough to convey the message against single-use plastic and plastic pollution globally.\n\nBelow are sketches providing an overview of the parts.\n\nIn our effort to produce everything locally in Kenya, a significant challenge was establishing collaborations with manufacturers capable of delivering quality materials consistently.\n\nInitially, manufacturers mixed different plastics or added substances like sawdust or sand as stiffeners. We succeeded in having them work with a single type of plastic without additives. An essential step in this process involved obtaining material samples and testing the joinery for boat construction.\n\nStarting with samples can help save time and reduce costs before ordering larger quantities of materials.\n\nHaving established the procedures, we began manufacturing components for a 79-foot (24-meter) boat. The parts were substantial. \n\nAlthough the quality was quite basic, it demonstrated feasibility. Given the novelty and significant investment involved, we opted to build a smaller 33-foot (10-meter) prototype first.\n\nNext, we will detail how we created the Flipflopi Dogo (\"dogo\" means \"small\" in Kiswahili).\n\n### Overview of Production Process\n\nThe production of major components like the keel and ribs posed significant challenges. We utilized available resources, acknowledging potential areas for improvement. \n\nWe worked with a plastic manufacturer in Malindi known for producing fencing posts and tiles. \n\nBelow is an overview of their process. We created over 30 metal molds for various boat parts, using HDPE, a commonly collected material. \n\nSam and his team were instrumental in exploring different processes and materials.\n\nFor the planks, we collaborated with manufacturers in Nairobi who also produce fencing posts and other construction materials. It is common to add sawdust to the material to increase stiffness and reduce costs, although this mix is more prone to breaking than pure plastic. After several attempts, we successfully created planks made from 100% recycled plastic. These planks were produced using industrial machines but can also be made with the Extrusion Pro.\n\nCertainly. Here is the revised text:\n\n---\n\nForty percent of the waste collected on beaches consisted of flip-flops, inspiring the project's name and their inclusion in the boat's design.\n\nThe entire boat was covered with sheets of flip-flops, providing a colorful appearance and an additional protective layer resembling a large yoga mat.\n\nThese sheets were crafted by local artist James, who cuts the flip-flops into pieces, glues them, and sands them into even sheets.\n\n## How to Build the Boat\n\nBegin with constructing the keel, ribs, and connection parts, followed by forming the hull with extruded planks, and conclude with the Flipflop sheets.\n\nThe boatbuilders adhered to traditional methods, using fundamental tools, where screws were inserted with a hand drill and screwdriver.\n\nThis hands-on expertise requires a skilled boatbuilder.\n\nThe next step involved adding parts from other sailing boats, such as the mast, boom, sail, and ropes. With these additions, the boat was ready for its intended purpose: sailing. \n\nOn our maiden voyage, the boat successfully sailed over 310 miles (500 km) from northern Kenya to Zanzibar, safely transporting passengers and capturing interest along the route.\n\n**Important:** Ensure your boat is seaworthy. You are responsible for the safety of yourself and your passengers.\n\nIt was a significant endeavor with considerable learning, resulting in a functional boat. However, the process had room for improvement.\n\nDuring this time, we conducted additional tests and analyzed material properties. A report is available here: ~~[Material Analysis Report](tinyurl.com/flipflopi-material-analysis)~~.\n\nThe document shared in Step 1 contains further details.\n\n### Project Update\n\nWe have successfully engaged numerous individuals worldwide with our expedition and its narrative, effectively fostering beneficial change.\n\nOur next step is to construct a larger vessel capable of navigating greater distances and reaching a broader audience. This ambitious project presents several challenges, but as Ali Skanda notes, \"Kila kitu inawezekana\" – everything is possible.\n\nFor inquiries or to support our endeavors, please contact theflipflopi@gmail.com or consider supporting us at [patreon.com/theflipflopi](https://www.patreon.com/theflipflopi).\n\nIf you create a similar vessel, we encourage you to share your achievements with us.", - "keywords": "Flipflopi, recycled plastic boat, Kenya, sustainable sailing, alternative materials, boat construction, plastic pollution, eco-friendly, experimental prototype, Lamu boat builder", - "resources": "### Tools\n\n- Hand drill (manual screw insertion)\n- Screwdriver (traditional assembly)\n- Sanding tools (flip-flop sheet preparation)\n- Metal molds (30+ for boat components)\n- Extrusion Pro (plank production)\n\n### Hardware\n\n- Recycled HDPE plastic (primary material)\n- 100% recycled plastic planks (local manufacturing)\n- Recycled flip-flop sheets (protective outer layer)\n- Sailboat components: mast, boom, sail, ropes\n- Material testing equipment (sample validation) · [Report](https://tinyurl.com/flipflopi-material-analysis)\n\n### Software\n\n*No software explicitly mentioned in the production process.*\n\n### Additional Resources\n\n- Local plastic manufacturers (Malindi/Nairobi partnerships)\n- Traditional boatbuilding expertise (Lamu craftsmanship)\n- ~~[Project Contact](mailto:theflipflopi@gmail.com)~~ · [Support](https://www.patreon.com/theflipflopi)", - "references": "## Articles\n\n- [Boat made from 100% recycled plastic sets sail in Kenya](https://www.climateaction.org/news/boat-made-from-100-recycled-plastic-sets-sail-in-kenya)\n- [Flip-flop-clad boat brings plastic recycling message to East African coast](https://news.mongabay.com/2019/03/flip-flop-clad-boat-brings-plastic-recycling-message-to-east-african-coast/)\n- [FLIPFLOPI: the world’s first sailing boat made from plastic waste](https://www.entreprenanteafrique.com/en/flipflopi-the-worlds-first-sailing-boat-made-entirely-from-plastic-waste/)\n- [The Flipflopi Project: Mitigating Plastic Pollution through Heritage Boat Building](https://smepprogramme.org/project/the-flipflopi-project/)\n- [A sailboat made from flip-flops tackles Africa's largest lake](https://www.unep.org/news-and-stories/story/sailboat-made-partially-flip-flops-takes-africas-biggest-lake)\n- [Imagining Water 11: The Flipflopi Project](https://artistsandclimatechange.com/2018/07/23/imagining-water-11-the-flipflopi-project/)\n\n## Books\n\n- *Flipflopi: How a Boat Made from Flip-Flops Is Helping to Save the Ocean* by Linda R. Lodding & Dipesh Pabari ([Africa Access Review](https://africaaccessreview.org/2023/11/flipflopi-how-a-boat-made-from-flip-flops-is-helping-to-save-the-ocean/))\n\n## Papers\n\n- *Prevalence and characterisation of microfibres along the Kenyan and Tanzanian coast* ([Northumbria University](https://newsroom.northumbria.ac.uk/pressreleases/world-tour-for-model-boat-inspiring-citizen-science-against-environmental-pollution-3249917), [EurekAlert](https://www.eurekalert.org/news-releases/988003))\n\n## YouTube\n\n- [The Flipflopi Expedition: An Overview](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JcBajK5gjC0)\n\n## Opensource Designs\n\n- Build a 'Flipflopi' boat - [filtered] Academy\n- [Flipflopi Boat Build Toolkit](https://www.theflipflopi.com/blog/launching-the-boat-build-toolkit)", - "brief": "Discover how the Flipflopi, a sailing boat made from recycled plastics in Kenya, promotes eco-friendly innovation and fights plastic pollution worldwide." + "content": "The Flipflopi is a sailing boat made from 100% recycled plastic and flip-flops collected from the streets and beaches in Kenya. \n\nHere we want to share how it was made and what we learned on the way.\n\n\nUser Location: Lamu, Kenya\n\nFirst off, this boat is a first of its kind, a prototype. The processes we used were done for the first time and are not perfect (far from that!). So don’t take this as a guide to copy identically but more as something to learn from and and to get inspired :)\n\nOkay, so it all started with finding a local boat builder, who was confident and visionary enough to believe that we could build a boat from a totally different material than what they were used to.\n\nAli Skanda, from Lamu, was our man and gathered his boatbuilder team to apply their knowledge to a new material. \n\nWe definitely recommend finding someone who knows how to build boats, so you can focus on learning how to use plastic for already existing processes, instead of trying to learn another complex skill on top of that!\n\nWith Ali Skanda we made a plan and designed the boat, to get an idea of the required components and joineries.\n\nThe goal originally was (and still is), to build a boat which would be big enough to travel the message to fight single-use plastic and plastic pollution around the world. \n\nHere some of the sketches to get an overview of the parts.\n\nAs the approach was to have everything made locally in Kenya, a big challenge was (still is) to find collaborations with recycling manufacturers who deliver quality materials, reliably. \n\nWe started at at point where they were mixing plastic types together or even add sawdust or sand (as a “stiffener”) and it’s already a success to have them working with only one type of plastic, without anything else mixed in. Part of this was getting material samples and testing joineries which would be used in the boat. \n\nStarting with samples can save you a lot of time and costs, before ordering a bigger amount of materials. \n\nWith the processes more or less figured out, we started producing the recycled parts for a 24m boat - They were HUGE.\n\nThe quality was very rough, but it was good to see that it was possible. And as this hasn’t been done before and was going to be a big investment, we decided to make a smaller 10m prototype first. \n\n So in the next step you'll see how we actually made the Flipflopi Dogo (“dogo” = “small” in Kiswahili).\n\nThe production of the BIG PARTS like keel and ribs was one of the biggest challenges. We managed to work with what we could get, with a lot of space for improvements! \n\nWe collaborated with the closest plastic recycling manufacturer Regeneration Africa in Malindi, where they usually produce fencing posts and tiles. \n\nHere is an overview of their process. (second image). We made over 30 metal moulds for different boat parts which were filled this way, using HDPE which is the most common and easiest type to collect separately (after PET). \n\nSam and his team were a huge help to explore and figure out different processes and materials!\n\nFor the planks we collaborated with other manufacturers in Nairobi, which also produce fencing posts as well as other construction material. \n\nIt's a quite common practice there to mix in sawdust to make the material stiffer and cheaper to produce (but that material mix also breaks much easier than pure plastic). It took a couple of attempts, but in the end we managed to get the 100% recycled plastic planks. \n\nThese planks were produced with professional, industrial machines, but could definitely be made with the [filtered] Extrusion Pro as well! \n(Extrusion Pro: \n\n40% of all the waste collected on the beaches were flip-flops. This is where the project got its name from and why flip-flops were an obligatory element of this boat. \n\nSo we covered the whole boat with sheets of recycled flip-flops, giving it a very colourful look and adding an extra protective layer (the whole boat feels like a big yoga mat :))\n\nThe sheets were made by local flipflop artist James who cuts the flip-flops into pieces, glues them together and sands them to an even sheet.\n\nTime to build the boat! Starting with the keel, the ribs and connection parts, then making the hull with the extruded planks, and finishing with the colourful Flipflop sheets. \n\n Other than using this new material, the boatbuilders made the boat in their traditional way, meaning that they used very basic tools (every screw was inserted with a hand drill and a screwdriver!). \n\nThis is obviously something we won't be able to teach you here - that's what you need a boatbuilder for! :) \n\nAlright, now we only had to add (second hand) parts from other sailing boats like the mast, boom, sail and ropes. And were finally ready to do what the boat was meant to be for: Sailing around Kenya to create awareness around the problem and inspire local communities to be part of a positive change!\n\nOn our first expedition the boat sailed smoothly for more than 500km from the north of Kenya to Zanzibar, carried its passengers safely while creating excitement and fascination everywhere we went!\n\n❗️IMPORTANT: Definitely test and check your boat if it's seaworthy! You'll be responsible for your passengers and yourself, and don't want to risk your lives 🙏 \n\nIt was a big process with a lot of learning, and yes, the result is a functional boat - but the process was quite rough with a lot of space for improvement. \n\nOn the way we also made more tests and analysed the properties of the materials. \nYou can find a report here: \ntinyurl.com/flipflopi-material-analysis \n\nAnd the document we shared in Step 1 has everything with more details as well :)\n\nWe already reached hundreds of thousands locally and globally with our expedition and the story around the boat. It's a great tool to reach people in a positive way to push good changes.\n\nSo, we'll be building a much bigger boat which can sail longer distances and reach millions! There is still a lot to improve and figure out for a boat of that size! But as Ali Skanda says: \"Kila kitu inaweze kana.\" - Everything is possible :) \n\nHope this was insightful or at least a bit inspiring 🙃 \n\nWant to get involved? ✉️ theflipflopi@​gmail.com \nOr become a supporter (yay!) 👐 \npatreon.com: patreon.com/theflipflopi\n\nAnd if you end up building a similar boat, make sure to share it! (@​theflipflopi)" } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/build-easy-to-wash-chicken-coop-from-bottle-caps/README.md b/howtos/build-easy-to-wash-chicken-coop-from-bottle-caps/README.md index aa140d5b3..49a905717 100644 --- a/howtos/build-easy-to-wash-chicken-coop-from-bottle-caps/README.md +++ b/howtos/build-easy-to-wash-chicken-coop-from-bottle-caps/README.md @@ -1,40 +1,44 @@ --- title: Build easy-to-wash chicken coop from bottle caps slug: build-easy-to-wash-chicken-coop-from-bottle-caps -description: Recycled plastic sheets are ideal for chicken coops due to their ease of cleaning and resistance to parasites like poultry red mites. Here is how ours was built: Download the plans and watch the stages in the accompanying video. +description: Recycled plastic sheets are an excellent choice for creating chicken coops, as they are easy to clean and less likely to harbor parasites such as poultry red mites. Let me tell you how we built ours! +You can download the plans we've made, watch the various stages in the Youtube video, and of course subscribe to my channel to find out about future projects! tags: ["product","HDPE","sheetpress"] category: Products difficulty: Hard time: 3-4 weeks -keywords: recycled plastic sheets, chicken coop plans, henhouse building video, sustainable chicken coop, DIY henhouse construction, bottle cap recycling, plastic sheet production, wooden structure plans, eco-friendly poultry house, chicken coop design +keywords: location: Houyet, Belgium --- # Build easy-to-wash chicken coop from bottle caps ![Build easy-to-wash chicken coop from bottle caps](20230522_140027-18b00b8c426.jpg) -Recycled plastic sheets are ideal for chicken coops due to their ease of cleaning and resistance to parasites like poultry red mites. Here is how ours was built: Download the plans and watch the stages in the accompanying video. +Recycled plastic sheets are an excellent choice for creating chicken coops, as they are easy to clean and less likely to harbor parasites such as poultry red mites. Let me tell you how we built ours! +You can download the plans we've made, watch the various stages in the Youtube video, and of course subscribe to my channel to find out about future projects! User Location: Houyet, Belgium ## Steps ### Step 1: Watch that amazing Youtube video first ! -In this video, I demonstrate the production stages of a chicken coop made from plastic sheets. Watching the video will provide a comprehensive overview, making the process easier to follow. +In this video, I show you all the production stages of this chicken coop made from recycled plastic sheets. +Watching the video first will give you a complete overview of what we're going to make, and make the rest easier! +Take this opportunity to subscribe to my channel if you like this type of content - your support helps me enormously! ### Step 2: Download the files provided above -These files contain the henhouse plans in both .PDF and .DXF formats, allowing you to view and edit them using open-source software like LibreCAD. The wooden frame is designed to be covered with panels measuring 39.4*39.4*0.4 inches (100x100x1 cm), compatible with the commonly used sheet press. +In these files, you will find the plans of the henhouse as we built it, in .PDF but also .DXF format so that you can view and modify them with an opensource program such as LibreCAD. +The wooden structure was designed to be covered with 100*100*1cm panels made with the most widely used version of the [filtered] sheetpress. ![librecad-18b242fed04.jpg](./librecad-18b242fed04.jpg) ### Step 3: Collect around 120 000 bottle caps -Collecting a substantial number of caps can be challenging. Here is my approach: +Collecting such a large quantity of caps can be a real challenge, so I'm going to tell you how I do it personally. +I work with an association that collects the caps from schools, stores, public places, etc. before sorting them by color. I pay for this collection and sorting service, as it saves me dozens of hours of work! -I collaborate with an organization that gathers caps from schools, stores, and public places and sorts them by color. I pay for this service to save time. +Try to find such associations in your neighborhood! In our area, many collect bottle caps and sell them to recycling companies to finance humanitarian activities: dogs for the blind, wheelchairs for the disabled, etc... -Seek out similar organizations in your area. Often, these groups collect bottle caps and sell them, using the proceeds to support charitable activities such as providing guide dogs for the blind or wheelchairs for the disabled. - -For this project, we required 240 kilograms (approximately 530 pounds) of bottle caps. +For this project, we needed 240 kilos of bottle caps. ![souffleunpeu2-18b1eafc264.jpg](./souffleunpeu2-18b1eafc264.jpg) @@ -44,15 +48,15 @@ For this project, we required 240 kilograms (approximately 530 pounds) of bottle ### Step 4: Shred & wash your bottle caps -### Shredding +SHREDDING -I use a V4 pro shredder to process the caps four times until the shred meets my size requirements. +I use a V4 pro shredder to shred the caps 4 times, until I get the right size of shred for my needs. -### Washing and Drying +WASHING (and DRYING) -Washing is more effective post-grinding. I place shredded plastic in durable cotton canvas bags, securing them with reusable zip-ties. These are washed in domestic machines equipped with filtration systems to prevent microplastic release and water recovery systems to recycle water efficiently. +I find that washing is more effective when done after grinding, rather than before. So I put my shredded plastic in heavy-duty cotton canvas bags, which I seal carefully with reusable zip-ties. I then wash them in domestic washing machines, with a filtration and water recovery system. Filtration prevents the loss of microplastics into the environment, while water recovery enables the washing machines to operate in a closed cycle, reusing the same water many times over, for a multitude of washes, before being renewed. -Subsequently, I dry the shredded material in tumble dryers to ensure it is completely dry. +I then dry the bags of shredded material in tumble dryers (powered by solar panels) to obtain perfectly dry, moisture-free shredded material. ![20220912_130432 (3)-18b1eb620eb.jpg](./20220912_130432_3-18b1eb620eb.jpg) @@ -65,11 +69,13 @@ Subsequently, I dry the shredded material in tumble dryers to ensure it is compl ### Step 5: Create your sheets using the sheetpress -By following the previously explained method, you can produce approximately 6 to 8 sheets per day (2.5 to 3.5 square feet). +Using the method explained in a previous "How-To" ( ), you should be able to make between 6 and 8 sheets per day. -This project requires 24 panels, including 4 yellow ones for the nesting box. +For this project, we needed 24 panels, including 4 yellow ones for the nesting box. -Completion is achievable after 3 to 4 days of dedicated work. +So you could be finished after 3-4 intense days, good job! + +(Don't mind the pink ones, they were for another project in our daughter's room!) ![bscap0030-18b1ec8f559.jpg](./bscap0030-18b1ec8f559.jpg) @@ -82,17 +88,16 @@ Completion is achievable after 3 to 4 days of dedicated work. ### Step 6: Build the wooden structure and the roof -### Construction Guide for Wooden Structure +Build the wooden structure following the plans provided in this “How-To”. -Build the wooden structure according to the provided plans. +Of course, you will have to adapt to your own location and your available materials. -Adapt the design to suit your location and materials. +In our case, we had Trespa panels in stock (from my partner's ordering error for a previous professional project) so we used them for the floor and ceiling. +If you don't want to buy Trespa panels, you can adapt the structure and also use recycled plastic panels instead. -We used Trespa panels, available from excess stock, for the floor and ceiling. Alternatively, consider using plastic panels. +The roof of the henhouse was insulated and then covered with corrugated iron sheets. -The roof is insulated and covered with corrugated iron sheets. - -Plans include a separate storage area accessed from outside the main enclosure. +As you will see in the plans, we wanted to provide a small storage space next to the chickens' living room in order to be able to store equipment there. It is accessed from the outside and not the inside of the henhouse. ![20220727_171447-18b1ecd13d5.jpg](./20220727_171447-18b1ecd13d5.jpg) @@ -102,9 +107,10 @@ Plans include a separate storage area accessed from outside the main enclosure. ### Step 7: Cut and add your recycled plastic sheets -### Wall Cladding for Your Chicken Coop +It's time to dress the interior and exterior walls of your chicken coop! -Exercise caution when cutting panels; ensure the workspace permits the collection of any resulting plastic dust. Pre-drill holes to attach the panels to the wooden structure, and gather any plastic waste during this process. +Be very careful when cutting your panels, do it in a place that allows you to collect/vacuum up all the plastic dust created by the cuts, so that this plastic does not end up in the environment. +To attach the panels, you will need to pre-drill (recover any plastic waste that falls!) before screwing to the wooden structure. ![20220807_172729-18b1eef71b2.jpg](./20220807_172729-18b1eef71b2.jpg) @@ -117,7 +123,11 @@ Exercise caution when cutting panels; ensure the workspace permits the collectio ### Step 8: Allow space between your panels ! -We did not allow space between the panels, leading to bulging in high heat. To prevent this, leave 0.2 in-0.4 in (0.5 cm-1 cm) between panels. Plan for seasonal temperature variations when constructing your henhouse, as they can affect panel expansion. +We made the "mistake" of not providing space between the panels, which does not allow them to expand properly when it is very hot, and some panels can end up a little bulging. + +To avoid this, it can be good to allow 0.5cm-1cm of space between the panels. + +Depending on the season in which you build your henhouse, and the temperature differences that you may have in your country (between summer and winter), you could notice big changes in the expansion of your panels, this is normal, but you must anticipate them during construction! ![begin-18b1eebc54f.jpg](./begin-18b1eebc54f.jpg) @@ -130,7 +140,11 @@ We did not allow space between the panels, leading to bulging in high heat. To p ### Step 9: Create your doors and windows -The doors and windows consist of a steel structure that we painted ourselves. Initially, we used putty to attach the panels to the steel frame, but it proved ineffective. Consequently, we switched to a mechanical fastening solution. We also installed metal mesh on the windows to prevent martens and rats from entering. +Our doors and windows have a steel structure, which has been painted (with the family!). +We first used putty to glue the panels to the steel structure, but it didn't work well. +We therefore opted for a mechanical solution. + +Personally, we decided to add a metal mesh to the windows to prevent the intrusion of martens or rats. ![20221014_090849-18b1ef361a7.jpg](./20221014_090849-18b1ef361a7.jpg) @@ -140,7 +154,8 @@ The doors and windows consist of a steel structure that we painted ourselves. In ### Step 10: Now, the nests ! -Build your nests by following the plans and adjusting them as needed. Feel free to choose any color you prefer. +Then build your nests, always using the plans and adapting them to your needs. +Be creative and don't be afraid to go for a different color! ![20221022_165351-18b1ef9963b.jpg](./20221022_165351-18b1ef9963b.jpg) @@ -153,7 +168,8 @@ Build your nests by following the plans and adjusting them as needed. Feel free ### Step 11: Add the last elements -If not yet completed, install the interior perch and the automatic door for the chickens (we used an Omlet brand door acquired second-hand). Adjust according to available materials. +If this is not yet done, add the interior perch, the automatic door for the chickens (we chose an Omlet brand door, which we bought second-hand). +Again, adapt to what you find or already have! ![20221022_165315-18b1efdf8c3.jpg](./20221022_165315-18b1efdf8c3.jpg) @@ -166,61 +182,11 @@ If not yet completed, install the interior perch and the automatic door for the ### Step 12: Time to celebrate ! -Host a remarkable gathering with friends. If you construct a similar chicken coop, please share your photos. +Invite some chicks and have an eggs-traordinary party! +Please send me pictures of your creation if you decide to build a chicken coop similar to ours ! ![celebration-18b1f13c990.jpg](./celebration-18b1f13c990.jpg) ## Resources -### Software - -- [LibreCAD](https://librecad.org/) (for editing DXF plans) -- PDF viewer (for blueprint access) - -### Hardware & Materials - -- V4 Pro shredder (4-stage plastic grinding) -- Domestic washing machine with microplastic filtration -- Tumble dryer (for plastic shreds) -- Cotton canvas bags + reusable zip-ties (washing setup) -- Wooden frame materials, Trespa panels, corrugated iron sheets - -### Power Tools - -- Panel cutter (e.g., circular saw/jigsaw) -- Drill + bits (pre-drilling holes) -- Sander (optional edge smoothing) -- Screwdriver (panel attachment) - -### Safety Equipment - -- Safety goggles (plastic dust protection) -- Dust mask/respirator (inhaled particles) -- Work gloves (optional handling) - -### Additional Tools - -- Omlet automatic chicken door (second-hand) -- Steel structures + paint (door/window frames) -- Screws/nails (mechanical fastening) -- Water recovery system (washing efficiency) -- Excess stock materials (e.g., recycled panels) -## References -## Articles - -- https://eartheasy.com/recycled-plastic-chicken-barn/ -- https://eartheasy.com/recycled-plastic-chicken-coop-the-sonoma/ -- https://www.thegardencoop.com/blog/chicken-coop-plastic-wrap-winter/ -- https://www.homedepot.com/c/ah/how-to-build-a-chicken-coop/9ba683603be9fa5395fab9014cb61420 - -## YouTube - -- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r8WtGTUX4uc - -## Papers - -- https://digitalcommons.calpoly.edu/cmsp/746/ - -## Opensource Designs - -- https://community.preciousplastic.com/library/build-easy-to-wash-chicken-coop-from-bottle-caps \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/build-easy-to-wash-chicken-coop-from-bottle-caps/config.json b/howtos/build-easy-to-wash-chicken-coop-from-bottle-caps/config.json index 9e0b4420a..d9e1ed7dc 100644 --- a/howtos/build-easy-to-wash-chicken-coop-from-bottle-caps/config.json +++ b/howtos/build-easy-to-wash-chicken-coop-from-bottle-caps/config.json @@ -17,7 +17,7 @@ "title": "Build easy-to-wash chicken coop from bottle caps", "time": "3-4 weeks", "_modified": "2023-12-28T04:11:29.761Z", - "description": "Recycled plastic sheets are ideal for chicken coops due to their ease of cleaning and resistance to parasites like poultry red mites. Here is how ours was built: Download the plans and watch the stages in the accompanying video.", + "description": "Recycled plastic sheets are an excellent choice for creating chicken coops, as they are easy to clean and less likely to harbor parasites such as poultry red mites. Let me tell you how we built ours!\nYou can download the plans we've made, watch the various stages in the Youtube video, and of course subscribe to my channel to find out about future projects!", "_id": "PdjDbZWrsNpqQGU7c81g", "files": [ null @@ -27,7 +27,7 @@ ], "steps": [ { - "text": "In this video, I demonstrate the production stages of a chicken coop made from plastic sheets. Watching the video will provide a comprehensive overview, making the process easier to follow.", + "text": "In this video, I show you all the production stages of this chicken coop made from recycled plastic sheets. \nWatching the video first will give you a complete overview of what we're going to make, and make the rest easier!\nTake this opportunity to subscribe to my channel if you like this type of content - your support helps me enormously!", "title": "Watch that amazing Youtube video first !", "images": [], "_animationKey": "unique1", @@ -48,13 +48,13 @@ "alt": "librecad-18b242fed04.jpg" } ], - "text": "These files contain the henhouse plans in both .PDF and .DXF formats, allowing you to view and edit them using open-source software like LibreCAD. The wooden frame is designed to be covered with panels measuring 39.4*39.4*0.4 inches (100x100x1 cm), compatible with the commonly used sheet press.", + "text": "In these files, you will find the plans of the henhouse as we built it, in .PDF but also .DXF format so that you can view and modify them with an opensource program such as LibreCAD.\nThe wooden structure was designed to be covered with 100*100*1cm panels made with the most widely used version of the [filtered] sheetpress.", "title": "Download the files provided above", "_animationKey": "unique83qsim" }, { "_animationKey": "unique2", - "text": "Collecting a substantial number of caps can be challenging. Here is my approach:\n\nI collaborate with an organization that gathers caps from schools, stores, and public places and sorts them by color. I pay for this service to save time.\n\nSeek out similar organizations in your area. Often, these groups collect bottle caps and sell them, using the proceeds to support charitable activities such as providing guide dogs for the blind or wheelchairs for the disabled.\n\nFor this project, we required 240 kilograms (approximately 530 pounds) of bottle caps.", + "text": "Collecting such a large quantity of caps can be a real challenge, so I'm going to tell you how I do it personally.\nI work with an association that collects the caps from schools, stores, public places, etc. before sorting them by color. I pay for this collection and sorting service, as it saves me dozens of hours of work!\n\nTry to find such associations in your neighborhood! In our area, many collect bottle caps and sell them to recycling companies to finance humanitarian activities: dogs for the blind, wheelchairs for the disabled, etc...\n\nFor this project, we needed 240 kilos of bottle caps.", "images": [ { "timeCreated": "2023-10-11T12:33:22.934Z", @@ -85,7 +85,7 @@ }, { "title": "Shred & wash your bottle caps", - "text": "### Shredding\n\nI use a V4 pro shredder to process the caps four times until the shred meets my size requirements.\n\n### Washing and Drying\n\nWashing is more effective post-grinding. I place shredded plastic in durable cotton canvas bags, securing them with reusable zip-ties. These are washed in domestic machines equipped with filtration systems to prevent microplastic release and water recovery systems to recycle water efficiently.\n\nSubsequently, I dry the shredded material in tumble dryers to ensure it is completely dry.", + "text": "SHREDDING\n\nI use a V4 pro shredder to shred the caps 4 times, until I get the right size of shred for my needs.\n\nWASHING (and DRYING)\n\nI find that washing is more effective when done after grinding, rather than before. So I put my shredded plastic in heavy-duty cotton canvas bags, which I seal carefully with reusable zip-ties. I then wash them in domestic washing machines, with a filtration and water recovery system. Filtration prevents the loss of microplastics into the environment, while water recovery enables the washing machines to operate in a closed cycle, reusing the same water many times over, for a multitude of washes, before being renewed.\n\nI then dry the bags of shredded material in tumble dryers (powered by solar panels) to obtain perfectly dry, moisture-free shredded material.", "images": [ { "updated": "2023-10-11T12:33:26.941Z", @@ -166,12 +166,12 @@ "alt": "20220805_161737-18b1ec9434a.jpg" } ], - "text": "By following the previously explained method, you can produce approximately 6 to 8 sheets per day (2.5 to 3.5 square feet).\n\nThis project requires 24 panels, including 4 yellow ones for the nesting box.\n\nCompletion is achievable after 3 to 4 days of dedicated work.", + "text": "Using the method explained in a previous \"How-To\" ( ), you should be able to make between 6 and 8 sheets per day.\n\nFor this project, we needed 24 panels, including 4 yellow ones for the nesting box.\n\nSo you could be finished after 3-4 intense days, good job!\n\n(Don't mind the pink ones, they were for another project in our daughter's room!)", "_animationKey": "uniquefrgkk" }, { "_animationKey": "unique9vvy9", - "text": "### Construction Guide for Wooden Structure\n\nBuild the wooden structure according to the provided plans.\n\nAdapt the design to suit your location and materials.\n\nWe used Trespa panels, available from excess stock, for the floor and ceiling. Alternatively, consider using plastic panels.\n\nThe roof is insulated and covered with corrugated iron sheets.\n\nPlans include a separate storage area accessed from outside the main enclosure.", + "text": "Build the wooden structure following the plans provided in this “How-To”.\n\nOf course, you will have to adapt to your own location and your available materials.\n\nIn our case, we had Trespa panels in stock (from my partner's ordering error for a previous professional project) so we used them for the floor and ceiling.\nIf you don't want to buy Trespa panels, you can adapt the structure and also use recycled plastic panels instead.\n\nThe roof of the henhouse was insulated and then covered with corrugated iron sheets.\n\nAs you will see in the plans, we wanted to provide a small storage space next to the chickens' living room in order to be able to store equipment there. It is accessed from the outside and not the inside of the henhouse.", "title": "Build the wooden structure and the roof", "images": [ { @@ -202,7 +202,7 @@ }, { "title": "Cut and add your recycled plastic sheets", - "text": "### Wall Cladding for Your Chicken Coop\n\nExercise caution when cutting panels; ensure the workspace permits the collection of any resulting plastic dust. Pre-drill holes to attach the panels to the wooden structure, and gather any plastic waste during this process.", + "text": "It's time to dress the interior and exterior walls of your chicken coop!\n\nBe very careful when cutting your panels, do it in a place that allows you to collect/vacuum up all the plastic dust created by the cuts, so that this plastic does not end up in the environment.\nTo attach the panels, you will need to pre-drill (recover any plastic waste that falls!) before screwing to the wooden structure.", "images": [ { "updated": "2023-10-11T13:48:05.663Z", @@ -284,12 +284,12 @@ ], "_animationKey": "uniqueqa3w3o", "title": "Allow space between your panels !", - "text": "We did not allow space between the panels, leading to bulging in high heat. To prevent this, leave 0.2 in-0.4 in (0.5 cm-1 cm) between panels. Plan for seasonal temperature variations when constructing your henhouse, as they can affect panel expansion." + "text": "We made the \"mistake\" of not providing space between the panels, which does not allow them to expand properly when it is very hot, and some panels can end up a little bulging.\n\nTo avoid this, it can be good to allow 0.5cm-1cm of space between the panels.\n\nDepending on the season in which you build your henhouse, and the temperature differences that you may have in your country (between summer and winter), you could notice big changes in the expansion of your panels, this is normal, but you must anticipate them during construction!" }, { "title": "Create your doors and windows", "_animationKey": "uniquejdmsqc", - "text": "The doors and windows consist of a steel structure that we painted ourselves. Initially, we used putty to attach the panels to the steel frame, but it proved ineffective. Consequently, we switched to a mechanical fastening solution. We also installed metal mesh on the windows to prevent martens and rats from entering.", + "text": "Our doors and windows have a steel structure, which has been painted (with the family!).\nWe first used putty to glue the panels to the steel structure, but it didn't work well. \nWe therefore opted for a mechanical solution.\n\nPersonally, we decided to add a metal mesh to the windows to prevent the intrusion of martens or rats.", "images": [ { "downloadUrl": "https://firebasestorage.googleapis.com/v0/b/onearmyworld.appspot.com/o/uploads%2Fhowtos%2FPdjDbZWrsNpqQGU7c81g%2F20221014_090849-18b1ef361a7.jpg?alt=media&token=67ce5ba6-7681-4661-9f4d-b09f08e0bd02", @@ -358,7 +358,7 @@ } ], "title": "Now, the nests !", - "text": "Build your nests by following the plans and adjusting them as needed. Feel free to choose any color you prefer." + "text": "Then build your nests, always using the plans and adapting them to your needs.\nBe creative and don't be afraid to go for a different color!" }, { "title": "Add the last elements", @@ -401,10 +401,10 @@ } ], "_animationKey": "uniquenzsk08", - "text": "If not yet completed, install the interior perch and the automatic door for the chickens (we used an Omlet brand door acquired second-hand). Adjust according to available materials." + "text": "If this is not yet done, add the interior perch, the automatic door for the chickens (we chose an Omlet brand door, which we bought second-hand).\nAgain, adapt to what you find or already have!" }, { - "text": "Host a remarkable gathering with friends. If you construct a similar chicken coop, please share your photos.", + "text": "Invite some chicks and have an eggs-traordinary party! \nPlease send me pictures of your creation if you decide to build a chicken coop similar to ours !", "_animationKey": "unique63i9t", "images": [ { @@ -612,9 +612,5 @@ "images": [] } }, - "content": "Recycled plastic sheets are ideal for chicken coops due to their ease of cleaning and resistance to parasites like poultry red mites. Here is how ours was built: Download the plans and watch the stages in the accompanying video.\n\n\nUser Location: Houyet, Belgium\n\nIn this video, I demonstrate the production stages of a chicken coop made from plastic sheets. Watching the video will provide a comprehensive overview, making the process easier to follow.\n\nThese files contain the henhouse plans in both .PDF and .DXF formats, allowing you to view and edit them using open-source software like LibreCAD. The wooden frame is designed to be covered with panels measuring 39.4*39.4*0.4 inches (100x100x1 cm), compatible with the commonly used sheet press.\n\nCollecting a substantial number of caps can be challenging. Here is my approach:\n\nI collaborate with an organization that gathers caps from schools, stores, and public places and sorts them by color. I pay for this service to save time.\n\nSeek out similar organizations in your area. Often, these groups collect bottle caps and sell them, using the proceeds to support charitable activities such as providing guide dogs for the blind or wheelchairs for the disabled.\n\nFor this project, we required 240 kilograms (approximately 530 pounds) of bottle caps.\n\n### Shredding\n\nI use a V4 pro shredder to process the caps four times until the shred meets my size requirements.\n\n### Washing and Drying\n\nWashing is more effective post-grinding. I place shredded plastic in durable cotton canvas bags, securing them with reusable zip-ties. These are washed in domestic machines equipped with filtration systems to prevent microplastic release and water recovery systems to recycle water efficiently.\n\nSubsequently, I dry the shredded material in tumble dryers to ensure it is completely dry.\n\nBy following the previously explained method, you can produce approximately 6 to 8 sheets per day (2.5 to 3.5 square feet).\n\nThis project requires 24 panels, including 4 yellow ones for the nesting box.\n\nCompletion is achievable after 3 to 4 days of dedicated work.\n\n### Construction Guide for Wooden Structure\n\nBuild the wooden structure according to the provided plans.\n\nAdapt the design to suit your location and materials.\n\nWe used Trespa panels, available from excess stock, for the floor and ceiling. Alternatively, consider using plastic panels.\n\nThe roof is insulated and covered with corrugated iron sheets.\n\nPlans include a separate storage area accessed from outside the main enclosure.\n\n### Wall Cladding for Your Chicken Coop\n\nExercise caution when cutting panels; ensure the workspace permits the collection of any resulting plastic dust. Pre-drill holes to attach the panels to the wooden structure, and gather any plastic waste during this process.\n\nWe did not allow space between the panels, leading to bulging in high heat. To prevent this, leave 0.2 in-0.4 in (0.5 cm-1 cm) between panels. Plan for seasonal temperature variations when constructing your henhouse, as they can affect panel expansion.\n\nThe doors and windows consist of a steel structure that we painted ourselves. Initially, we used putty to attach the panels to the steel frame, but it proved ineffective. Consequently, we switched to a mechanical fastening solution. We also installed metal mesh on the windows to prevent martens and rats from entering.\n\nBuild your nests by following the plans and adjusting them as needed. Feel free to choose any color you prefer.\n\nIf not yet completed, install the interior perch and the automatic door for the chickens (we used an Omlet brand door acquired second-hand). Adjust according to available materials.\n\nHost a remarkable gathering with friends. If you construct a similar chicken coop, please share your photos.", - "keywords": "recycled plastic sheets, chicken coop plans, henhouse building video, sustainable chicken coop, DIY henhouse construction, bottle cap recycling, plastic sheet production, wooden structure plans, eco-friendly poultry house, chicken coop design", - "resources": "### Software\n\n- [LibreCAD](https://librecad.org/) (for editing DXF plans)\n- PDF viewer (for blueprint access)\n\n### Hardware & Materials\n\n- V4 Pro shredder (4-stage plastic grinding)\n- Domestic washing machine with microplastic filtration\n- Tumble dryer (for plastic shreds)\n- Cotton canvas bags + reusable zip-ties (washing setup)\n- Wooden frame materials, Trespa panels, corrugated iron sheets\n\n### Power Tools\n\n- Panel cutter (e.g., circular saw/jigsaw)\n- Drill + bits (pre-drilling holes)\n- Sander (optional edge smoothing)\n- Screwdriver (panel attachment)\n\n### Safety Equipment\n\n- Safety goggles (plastic dust protection)\n- Dust mask/respirator (inhaled particles)\n- Work gloves (optional handling)\n\n### Additional Tools\n\n- Omlet automatic chicken door (second-hand)\n- Steel structures + paint (door/window frames)\n- Screws/nails (mechanical fastening)\n- Water recovery system (washing efficiency)\n- Excess stock materials (e.g., recycled panels)", - "references": "## Articles\n\n- https://eartheasy.com/recycled-plastic-chicken-barn/\n- https://eartheasy.com/recycled-plastic-chicken-coop-the-sonoma/\n- https://www.thegardencoop.com/blog/chicken-coop-plastic-wrap-winter/\n- https://www.homedepot.com/c/ah/how-to-build-a-chicken-coop/9ba683603be9fa5395fab9014cb61420\n\n## YouTube\n\n- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r8WtGTUX4uc\n\n## Papers\n\n- https://digitalcommons.calpoly.edu/cmsp/746/\n\n## Opensource Designs\n\n- https://community.preciousplastic.com/library/build-easy-to-wash-chicken-coop-from-bottle-caps", - "brief": "Build a durable, easy-to-clean chicken coop with recycled plastic sheets. Resistant to parasites, customizable plans in multiple formats guide every step." + "content": "Recycled plastic sheets are an excellent choice for creating chicken coops, as they are easy to clean and less likely to harbor parasites such as poultry red mites. Let me tell you how we built ours!\nYou can download the plans we've made, watch the various stages in the Youtube video, and of course subscribe to my channel to find out about future projects!\n\n\nUser Location: Houyet, Belgium\n\nIn this video, I show you all the production stages of this chicken coop made from recycled plastic sheets. \nWatching the video first will give you a complete overview of what we're going to make, and make the rest easier!\nTake this opportunity to subscribe to my channel if you like this type of content - your support helps me enormously!\n\nIn these files, you will find the plans of the henhouse as we built it, in .PDF but also .DXF format so that you can view and modify them with an opensource program such as LibreCAD.\nThe wooden structure was designed to be covered with 100*100*1cm panels made with the most widely used version of the [filtered] sheetpress.\n\nCollecting such a large quantity of caps can be a real challenge, so I'm going to tell you how I do it personally.\nI work with an association that collects the caps from schools, stores, public places, etc. before sorting them by color. I pay for this collection and sorting service, as it saves me dozens of hours of work!\n\nTry to find such associations in your neighborhood! In our area, many collect bottle caps and sell them to recycling companies to finance humanitarian activities: dogs for the blind, wheelchairs for the disabled, etc...\n\nFor this project, we needed 240 kilos of bottle caps.\n\nSHREDDING\n\nI use a V4 pro shredder to shred the caps 4 times, until I get the right size of shred for my needs.\n\nWASHING (and DRYING)\n\nI find that washing is more effective when done after grinding, rather than before. So I put my shredded plastic in heavy-duty cotton canvas bags, which I seal carefully with reusable zip-ties. I then wash them in domestic washing machines, with a filtration and water recovery system. Filtration prevents the loss of microplastics into the environment, while water recovery enables the washing machines to operate in a closed cycle, reusing the same water many times over, for a multitude of washes, before being renewed.\n\nI then dry the bags of shredded material in tumble dryers (powered by solar panels) to obtain perfectly dry, moisture-free shredded material.\n\nUsing the method explained in a previous \"How-To\" ( ), you should be able to make between 6 and 8 sheets per day.\n\nFor this project, we needed 24 panels, including 4 yellow ones for the nesting box.\n\nSo you could be finished after 3-4 intense days, good job!\n\n(Don't mind the pink ones, they were for another project in our daughter's room!)\n\nBuild the wooden structure following the plans provided in this “How-To”.\n\nOf course, you will have to adapt to your own location and your available materials.\n\nIn our case, we had Trespa panels in stock (from my partner's ordering error for a previous professional project) so we used them for the floor and ceiling.\nIf you don't want to buy Trespa panels, you can adapt the structure and also use recycled plastic panels instead.\n\nThe roof of the henhouse was insulated and then covered with corrugated iron sheets.\n\nAs you will see in the plans, we wanted to provide a small storage space next to the chickens' living room in order to be able to store equipment there. It is accessed from the outside and not the inside of the henhouse.\n\nIt's time to dress the interior and exterior walls of your chicken coop!\n\nBe very careful when cutting your panels, do it in a place that allows you to collect/vacuum up all the plastic dust created by the cuts, so that this plastic does not end up in the environment.\nTo attach the panels, you will need to pre-drill (recover any plastic waste that falls!) before screwing to the wooden structure.\n\nWe made the \"mistake\" of not providing space between the panels, which does not allow them to expand properly when it is very hot, and some panels can end up a little bulging.\n\nTo avoid this, it can be good to allow 0.5cm-1cm of space between the panels.\n\nDepending on the season in which you build your henhouse, and the temperature differences that you may have in your country (between summer and winter), you could notice big changes in the expansion of your panels, this is normal, but you must anticipate them during construction!\n\nOur doors and windows have a steel structure, which has been painted (with the family!).\nWe first used putty to glue the panels to the steel structure, but it didn't work well. \nWe therefore opted for a mechanical solution.\n\nPersonally, we decided to add a metal mesh to the windows to prevent the intrusion of martens or rats.\n\nThen build your nests, always using the plans and adapting them to your needs.\nBe creative and don't be afraid to go for a different color!\n\nIf this is not yet done, add the interior perch, the automatic door for the chickens (we chose an Omlet brand door, which we bought second-hand).\nAgain, adapt to what you find or already have!\n\nInvite some chicks and have an eggs-traordinary party! \nPlease send me pictures of your creation if you decide to build a chicken coop similar to ours !" } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/build-your-own-filament-cooling-system-/README.md b/howtos/build-your-own-filament-cooling-system-/README.md index 0816b036a..ebe91eacc 100644 --- a/howtos/build-your-own-filament-cooling-system-/README.md +++ b/howtos/build-your-own-filament-cooling-system-/README.md @@ -1,51 +1,46 @@ --- title: Build your own filament cooling system slug: build-your-own-filament-cooling-system- -description: # JARVIS Airpath Cooling System Assembly Guide +description: In this how to we will show you how you can assemble your JARVIS Airpath cooling system in 6 easy steps -## Contents -1. Airpath Components (PDF) -2. Airpath 3D Printed Parts (ZIP) +In tis folder you will find: +1. Airpath parts.(pdf) +2. Airpath 3D printed parts.(zip) -## Instructions -Assemble your JARVIS Airpath cooling system in six simple steps. +You can check out our JARVIS Airpath video here: +https://youtu.be/6Ae6oDKhqiE -For assistance, access our video tutorial: -[Watch Video](https://youtu.be/6Ae6oDKhqiE) - -For further information, visit our website: -[Visit Qitech](https://www.qitech.de/en/industries) +Feel free to visit our website :) +https://www.qitech.de/en/industries tags: ["extrusion","untagged","melting","product"] category: Machines difficulty: Easy time: < 1 hour -keywords: JARVIS Airpath, cooling system assembly, assembly guide, Qitech, magnetic clips, gondolas, aluminum profiles, fan installation, control box, DC jack +keywords: location: Darmstadt, Germany --- # Build your own filament cooling system ![Build your own filament cooling system ](Screenshot_2023-06-14_162618-188ba4d4380.png) -# JARVIS Airpath Cooling System Assembly Guide +In this how to we will show you how you can assemble your JARVIS Airpath cooling system in 6 easy steps -## Contents -1. Airpath Components (PDF) -2. Airpath 3D Printed Parts (ZIP) +In tis folder you will find: +1. Airpath parts.(pdf) +2. Airpath 3D printed parts.(zip) -## Instructions -Assemble your JARVIS Airpath cooling system in six simple steps. +You can check out our JARVIS Airpath video here: +https://youtu.be/6Ae6oDKhqiE -For assistance, access our video tutorial: -[Watch Video](https://youtu.be/6Ae6oDKhqiE) - -For further information, visit our website: -[Visit Qitech](https://www.qitech.de/en/industries) +Feel free to visit our website :) +https://www.qitech.de/en/industries User Location: Darmstadt, Germany ## Steps ### Step 1: Preparation of the gondolas -First, prepare the four gondolas by inserting the included magnets into the upper holes. Ensure all magnets in the gondolas have the same polarity for proper interaction with the magnetic clips. -The clips contain two interior holes for magnets. Insert the magnets with the correct orientation to ensure they attract the gondolas. +First, prepare the 4 gondolas by pressing the included magnets into the upper holes. Later, the clips, which also carry magnets, will be attached to them. Make sure that all the magnets in the gondolas are oriented in the same polarity so that the magnet clips will be attracted to them later from the opposite polarity. + +The clips have 2 holes on the inside for the magnets. Insert the magnets in the correct orientation so that the magnet clips are attracted to the gondolas. ![IMG_1250-188ba169e65.jpg](./IMG_1250-188ba169e65.jpg) @@ -58,9 +53,13 @@ The clips contain two interior holes for magnets. Insert the magnets with the co ### Step 2: Attachment of the gondolas to the aluminum profile -Attach the four gondolas to the aluminum profiles using 16 M5 x 8 screws and 16 T-nuts. You will need a 3 mm (0.12 in) Allen key. -Ensure the front side is visible and accessible; the aluminum profiles have a designated hole for this. Slide the T-nuts into the profiles, with the rounded side facing down. Secure the gondolas to the profiles with the screws, following the specified order. The outer gondolas should have their logos facing outwards, and the inner ones should show labeling. Make sure gondolas do not extend past the aluminum profiles—these should extend about 2 mm (0.08 in) outward. +Next, we will attach the 4 gondolas to the aluminum profiles. For this, you will need 16 T-nuts, 16 screws of size M5 x 8, both aluminum profiles, the 4 gondolas, and an Allen key of size 3. + + +Make sure that the front side is the one where the labeling and display are visible and accessible. On the aluminum profiles, there is a hole for the front side. + +Slide the T-nuts into the aluminum profile. The rounded side should face downwards, while the flat side should face upwards. Attach the gondolas to the aluminum profiles using the screws. Pay attention to the order as shown in the illustration. The outer gondolas have a logo that faces outward, while the inner ones have labeling. Ensure that the gondolas do not extend beyond the aluminum profiles. The aluminum profiles should protrude about 2 mm outward. ![20230614_135644-188ba262af1.jpg](./20230614_135644-188ba262af1.jpg) @@ -73,7 +72,10 @@ Ensure the front side is visible and accessible; the aluminum profiles have a de ### Step 3: Insertion of fans -Insert the fans into the JARVIS Airpath, ensuring the cone tips face inward and the display cables are pulled through the aluminum profile (aluminium profile), ensuring cables do not impede fan rotation. Secure the grilles and fans onto the gondola. + +Now you can flip the JARVIS Airpath over, as you need to screw in the fans here. Insert the fans into the system, making sure that the tips of the cones are facing inward and the cables for the display are pulled out through the hole in the aluminum profile. Ensure that the fans rotate without touching the cables. Screw the grilles and fans onto the gondola. + + ![20230614_154834-188ba3f57a3.jpg](./20230614_154834-188ba3f57a3.jpg) @@ -86,9 +88,10 @@ Insert the fans into the JARVIS Airpath, ensuring the cone tips face inward and ### Step 4: Attaching the support feet -To securely screw in the feet, you will need 4 T-nuts, 4 hard plastic washers, 4 rubber feet, 4 screws (M5 x 14 or 0.2 x 0.55 inches), and a 4 mm (0.16 inch) Allen key. -Place the JARVIS Airpath on the rubber feet. Position the hard plastic washers between the rubber feet and the aluminum profile. Screw two support feet into the aluminum profile. +To screw the feet securely, you will need 4 T-nuts, 4 hard plastic washers, 4 rubber feet, 4 screws in size M5 x 14, and an Allen key in size 4. + +The JARVIS Airpath is placed on the rubber feet. The hard plastic washers are positioned between the rubber feet and the aluminum profile. Screw two support feet into the aluminum profile. ![20230614_140329-188ba37bc1d.jpg](./20230614_140329-188ba37bc1d.jpg) @@ -101,7 +104,13 @@ Place the JARVIS Airpath on the rubber feet. Position the hard plastic washers b ### Step 5: Attaching the control box -Attach the control box using four T-nuts and four M5 x 8 (5/16 in x 5/16 in) screws. Insert the T-nuts into the aluminum profile and secure the control box to the front. Ensure power cables are routed through the hole into the box. + +Now you will attach the control box. For this, you will need 4 T-nuts and 4 screws in size M5 x 8. + +Insert the T-nuts into the aluminum profile and screw the control box onto the front side. Make sure to route the power cables through the hole into the box. + + + ![IMG_1247(1)-188ba3ce499.jpg](./IMG_12471-188ba3ce499.jpg) @@ -114,17 +123,18 @@ Attach the control box using four T-nuts and four M5 x 8 (5/16 in x 5/16 in) scr ### Step 6: Completion of the control box -You need the control cover, display box, DC jack, four set screws, an Allen wrench (2.5 mm/0.1 in), and a small screwdriver (0.35 mm/2.5 mm or 0.014 in/0.098 in). -Open the display box and remove the green start button. +You now need the control cover, the display box, the DC jack, 4 set screws, an Allen wrench size 2.5, and a small screwdriver size 0.35 / 2.5. -Attach the display to the control cover, ensuring the black border faces downward. Insert the fan control through the smaller hole and the green start button through the larger hole, securing it with a thin metal ring and nut. +Open the display box and remove the green start button from the palette. -Install the DC jack through the side hole of the control box and thread the cables into the box. +Now, attach the display to the control cover. The black border on the display should face downward. Insert the fan control through the smaller hole. Insert the green start button through the larger hole and place it back into the palette. On the inside, first secure the buttons with the thin metal ring, and then tighten the nut. -Screw the black cables into the "-" terminal and the red cables into the "+" terminal before closing the box. +Attach the DC jack through the side hole of the control box. Thread the cables through the hole into the box. -Use set screws to secure the control box to the display cover. +Before closing the box, screw the cables into the designated terminals. The black cables go into the "-" symbol, and the red cables go into the "+" marking. + +Secure the control box to the display cover using the set screws. ![20230614_140842-188ba392e9a.jpg](./20230614_140842-188ba392e9a.jpg) @@ -136,32 +146,4 @@ Use set screws to secure the control box to the display cover. ![20230609_105029-188ba3b6389.jpg](./20230609_105029-188ba3b6389.jpg) ## Resources -## Tools - -- 3 mm (0.12 in) Allen key [Source](https://youtu.be/6Ae6oDKhqiE) -- 4 mm (0.16 in) Allen key [Source](https://youtu.be/6Ae6oDKhqiE) -- 2.5 mm (0.1 in) Allen wrench [Source](https://youtu.be/6Ae6oDKhqiE) -- 0.35 mm/2.5 mm (0.014 in/0.098 in) screwdriver [Source](https://youtu.be/6Ae6oDKhqiE) - -## Hardware - -- Magnets (for gondolas/clips) [Source](https://youtu.be/6Ae6oDKhqiE) -- M5 x 8 screws (16x) + T-nuts (16x) [Source](https://youtu.be/6Ae6oDKhqiE) -- M5 x 14 screws (4x) + rubber feet (4x) [Source](https://youtu.be/6Ae6oDKhqiE) -- Control box + DC jack [Source](https://youtu.be/6Ae6oDKhqiE) -- Aluminum profiles + fans/grilles [Source](https://youtu.be/6Ae6oDKhqiE) - -## Software - -- Airpath Components PDF [Source](https://www.qitech.de/en/industries) -- Airpath 3D Printed Parts ZIP [Source](https://www.qitech.de/en/industries) -- Assembly video tutorial [Source](https://youtu.be/6Ae6oDKhqiE) -- Qitech support portal [Source](https://www.qitech.de/en/industries) -## References -## YouTube - -- [JARVIS Airpath Assembly Tutorial](https://youtu.be/6Ae6oDKhqiE) - -## Articles - -- [Qitech Industries](https://www.qitech.de/en/industries) \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/build-your-own-filament-cooling-system-/config.json b/howtos/build-your-own-filament-cooling-system-/config.json index 2716e98d7..a89ec19f1 100644 --- a/howtos/build-your-own-filament-cooling-system-/config.json +++ b/howtos/build-your-own-filament-cooling-system-/config.json @@ -39,7 +39,7 @@ "src": "C:\\Users\\zx\\Desktop\\osr\\osr-machines\\howtos\\build-your-own-filament-cooling-system-\\screenshot_2023-06-14_162618-188ba4d4380.png" }, "time": "< 1 hour", - "description": "# JARVIS Airpath Cooling System Assembly Guide\n\n## Contents\n1. Airpath Components (PDF)\n2. Airpath 3D Printed Parts (ZIP)\n\n## Instructions\nAssemble your JARVIS Airpath cooling system in six simple steps. \n\nFor assistance, access our video tutorial:\n[Watch Video](https://youtu.be/6Ae6oDKhqiE)\n\nFor further information, visit our website: \n[Visit Qitech](https://www.qitech.de/en/industries)", + "description": "In this how to we will show you how you can assemble your JARVIS Airpath cooling system in 6 easy steps\n\nIn tis folder you will find:\n1. Airpath parts.(pdf)\n2. Airpath 3D printed parts.(zip)\n\nYou can check out our JARVIS Airpath video here:\nhttps://youtu.be/6Ae6oDKhqiE\n\nFeel free to visit our website :)\nhttps://www.qitech.de/en/industries", "previousSlugs": [ "build-your-own-filament-cooling-system", "build-your-own-filament-cooling-system-" @@ -60,7 +60,7 @@ "steps": [ { "title": "Preparation of the gondolas", - "text": "First, prepare the four gondolas by inserting the included magnets into the upper holes. Ensure all magnets in the gondolas have the same polarity for proper interaction with the magnetic clips.\n\nThe clips contain two interior holes for magnets. Insert the magnets with the correct orientation to ensure they attract the gondolas.", + "text": "\nFirst, prepare the 4 gondolas by pressing the included magnets into the upper holes. Later, the clips, which also carry magnets, will be attached to them. Make sure that all the magnets in the gondolas are oriented in the same polarity so that the magnet clips will be attracted to them later from the opposite polarity.\n\nThe clips have 2 holes on the inside for the magnets. Insert the magnets in the correct orientation so that the magnet clips are attracted to the gondolas. ", "_animationKey": "unique1", "images": [ { @@ -141,7 +141,7 @@ "alt": "20230602_155106-188ba2692e5.jpg" } ], - "text": "Attach the four gondolas to the aluminum profiles using 16 M5 x 8 screws and 16 T-nuts. You will need a 3 mm (0.12 in) Allen key.\n\nEnsure the front side is visible and accessible; the aluminum profiles have a designated hole for this. Slide the T-nuts into the profiles, with the rounded side facing down. Secure the gondolas to the profiles with the screws, following the specified order. The outer gondolas should have their logos facing outwards, and the inner ones should show labeling. Make sure gondolas do not extend past the aluminum profiles—these should extend about 2 mm (0.08 in) outward.", + "text": "\nNext, we will attach the 4 gondolas to the aluminum profiles. For this, you will need 16 T-nuts, 16 screws of size M5 x 8, both aluminum profiles, the 4 gondolas, and an Allen key of size 3.\n\n\nMake sure that the front side is the one where the labeling and display are visible and accessible. On the aluminum profiles, there is a hole for the front side.\n\nSlide the T-nuts into the aluminum profile. The rounded side should face downwards, while the flat side should face upwards. Attach the gondolas to the aluminum profiles using the screws. Pay attention to the order as shown in the illustration. The outer gondolas have a logo that faces outward, while the inner ones have labeling. Ensure that the gondolas do not extend beyond the aluminum profiles. The aluminum profiles should protrude about 2 mm outward.", "title": "Attachment of the gondolas to the aluminum profile" }, { @@ -185,7 +185,7 @@ "alt": "20230606_143841-188ba2d92c4.jpg" } ], - "text": "Insert the fans into the JARVIS Airpath, ensuring the cone tips face inward and the display cables are pulled through the aluminum profile (aluminium profile), ensuring cables do not impede fan rotation. Secure the grilles and fans onto the gondola." + "text": "\nNow you can flip the JARVIS Airpath over, as you need to screw in the fans here. Insert the fans into the system, making sure that the tips of the cones are facing inward and the cables for the display are pulled out through the hole in the aluminum profile. Ensure that the fans rotate without touching the cables. Screw the grilles and fans onto the gondola.\n\n" }, { "images": [ @@ -226,13 +226,13 @@ "alt": "20230602_140104-188ba3ed110.jpg" } ], - "text": "To securely screw in the feet, you will need 4 T-nuts, 4 hard plastic washers, 4 rubber feet, 4 screws (M5 x 14 or 0.2 x 0.55 inches), and a 4 mm (0.16 inch) Allen key.\n\nPlace the JARVIS Airpath on the rubber feet. Position the hard plastic washers between the rubber feet and the aluminum profile. Screw two support feet into the aluminum profile.", + "text": "\nTo screw the feet securely, you will need 4 T-nuts, 4 hard plastic washers, 4 rubber feet, 4 screws in size M5 x 14, and an Allen key in size 4.\n\nThe JARVIS Airpath is placed on the rubber feet. The hard plastic washers are positioned between the rubber feet and the aluminum profile. Screw two support feet into the aluminum profile. ", "_animationKey": "uniquesqxgc", "title": "Attaching the support feet" }, { "_animationKey": "uniquejnxbr", - "text": "Attach the control box using four T-nuts and four M5 x 8 (5/16 in x 5/16 in) screws. Insert the T-nuts into the aluminum profile and secure the control box to the front. Ensure power cables are routed through the hole into the box.", + "text": "\nNow you will attach the control box. For this, you will need 4 T-nuts and 4 screws in size M5 x 8.\n\nInsert the T-nuts into the aluminum profile and screw the control box onto the front side. Make sure to route the power cables through the hole into the box.\n\n\n", "images": [ { "fullPath": "uploads/howtos/RfyXu8kUKmn7RRT6eSBS/IMG_1247(1)-188ba3ce499.jpg", @@ -274,7 +274,7 @@ "title": "Attaching the control box" }, { - "text": "You need the control cover, display box, DC jack, four set screws, an Allen wrench (2.5 mm/0.1 in), and a small screwdriver (0.35 mm/2.5 mm or 0.014 in/0.098 in).\n\nOpen the display box and remove the green start button.\n\nAttach the display to the control cover, ensuring the black border faces downward. Insert the fan control through the smaller hole and the green start button through the larger hole, securing it with a thin metal ring and nut.\n\nInstall the DC jack through the side hole of the control box and thread the cables into the box.\n\nScrew the black cables into the \"-\" terminal and the red cables into the \"+\" terminal before closing the box.\n\nUse set screws to secure the control box to the display cover.", + "text": "\nYou now need the control cover, the display box, the DC jack, 4 set screws, an Allen wrench size 2.5, and a small screwdriver size 0.35 / 2.5.\n\nOpen the display box and remove the green start button from the palette.\n\nNow, attach the display to the control cover. The black border on the display should face downward. Insert the fan control through the smaller hole. Insert the green start button through the larger hole and place it back into the palette. On the inside, first secure the buttons with the thin metal ring, and then tighten the nut.\n\nAttach the DC jack through the side hole of the control box. Thread the cables through the hole into the box.\n\nBefore closing the box, screw the cables into the designated terminals. The black cables go into the \"-\" symbol, and the red cables go into the \"+\" marking.\n\nSecure the control box to the display cover using the set screws. ", "images": [ { "size": 63019, @@ -485,9 +485,5 @@ "images": [] } }, - "content": "# JARVIS Airpath Cooling System Assembly Guide\n\n## Contents\n1. Airpath Components (PDF)\n2. Airpath 3D Printed Parts (ZIP)\n\n## Instructions\nAssemble your JARVIS Airpath cooling system in six simple steps. \n\nFor assistance, access our video tutorial:\n[Watch Video](https://youtu.be/6Ae6oDKhqiE)\n\nFor further information, visit our website: \n[Visit Qitech](https://www.qitech.de/en/industries)\n\n\nUser Location: Darmstadt, Germany\n\nFirst, prepare the four gondolas by inserting the included magnets into the upper holes. Ensure all magnets in the gondolas have the same polarity for proper interaction with the magnetic clips.\n\nThe clips contain two interior holes for magnets. Insert the magnets with the correct orientation to ensure they attract the gondolas.\n\nAttach the four gondolas to the aluminum profiles using 16 M5 x 8 screws and 16 T-nuts. You will need a 3 mm (0.12 in) Allen key.\n\nEnsure the front side is visible and accessible; the aluminum profiles have a designated hole for this. Slide the T-nuts into the profiles, with the rounded side facing down. Secure the gondolas to the profiles with the screws, following the specified order. The outer gondolas should have their logos facing outwards, and the inner ones should show labeling. Make sure gondolas do not extend past the aluminum profiles—these should extend about 2 mm (0.08 in) outward.\n\nInsert the fans into the JARVIS Airpath, ensuring the cone tips face inward and the display cables are pulled through the aluminum profile (aluminium profile), ensuring cables do not impede fan rotation. Secure the grilles and fans onto the gondola.\n\nTo securely screw in the feet, you will need 4 T-nuts, 4 hard plastic washers, 4 rubber feet, 4 screws (M5 x 14 or 0.2 x 0.55 inches), and a 4 mm (0.16 inch) Allen key.\n\nPlace the JARVIS Airpath on the rubber feet. Position the hard plastic washers between the rubber feet and the aluminum profile. Screw two support feet into the aluminum profile.\n\nAttach the control box using four T-nuts and four M5 x 8 (5/16 in x 5/16 in) screws. Insert the T-nuts into the aluminum profile and secure the control box to the front. Ensure power cables are routed through the hole into the box.\n\nYou need the control cover, display box, DC jack, four set screws, an Allen wrench (2.5 mm/0.1 in), and a small screwdriver (0.35 mm/2.5 mm or 0.014 in/0.098 in).\n\nOpen the display box and remove the green start button.\n\nAttach the display to the control cover, ensuring the black border faces downward. Insert the fan control through the smaller hole and the green start button through the larger hole, securing it with a thin metal ring and nut.\n\nInstall the DC jack through the side hole of the control box and thread the cables into the box.\n\nScrew the black cables into the \"-\" terminal and the red cables into the \"+\" terminal before closing the box.\n\nUse set screws to secure the control box to the display cover.", - "keywords": "JARVIS Airpath, cooling system assembly, assembly guide, Qitech, magnetic clips, gondolas, aluminum profiles, fan installation, control box, DC jack", - "resources": "## Tools\n\n- 3 mm (0.12 in) Allen key [Source](https://youtu.be/6Ae6oDKhqiE)\n- 4 mm (0.16 in) Allen key [Source](https://youtu.be/6Ae6oDKhqiE)\n- 2.5 mm (0.1 in) Allen wrench [Source](https://youtu.be/6Ae6oDKhqiE)\n- 0.35 mm/2.5 mm (0.014 in/0.098 in) screwdriver [Source](https://youtu.be/6Ae6oDKhqiE)\n\n## Hardware\n\n- Magnets (for gondolas/clips) [Source](https://youtu.be/6Ae6oDKhqiE)\n- M5 x 8 screws (16x) + T-nuts (16x) [Source](https://youtu.be/6Ae6oDKhqiE)\n- M5 x 14 screws (4x) + rubber feet (4x) [Source](https://youtu.be/6Ae6oDKhqiE)\n- Control box + DC jack [Source](https://youtu.be/6Ae6oDKhqiE)\n- Aluminum profiles + fans/grilles [Source](https://youtu.be/6Ae6oDKhqiE)\n\n## Software\n\n- Airpath Components PDF [Source](https://www.qitech.de/en/industries)\n- Airpath 3D Printed Parts ZIP [Source](https://www.qitech.de/en/industries)\n- Assembly video tutorial [Source](https://youtu.be/6Ae6oDKhqiE)\n- Qitech support portal [Source](https://www.qitech.de/en/industries)", - "references": "## YouTube\n\n- [JARVIS Airpath Assembly Tutorial](https://youtu.be/6Ae6oDKhqiE)\n\n## Articles\n\n- [Qitech Industries](https://www.qitech.de/en/industries)", - "brief": "Assemble the JARVIS Airpath Cooling System effortlessly in six steps with our detailed guide. Ensure proper magnet alignment for optimal performance." + "content": "In this how to we will show you how you can assemble your JARVIS Airpath cooling system in 6 easy steps\n\nIn tis folder you will find:\n1. Airpath parts.(pdf)\n2. Airpath 3D printed parts.(zip)\n\nYou can check out our JARVIS Airpath video here:\nhttps://youtu.be/6Ae6oDKhqiE\n\nFeel free to visit our website :)\nhttps://www.qitech.de/en/industries\n\n\nUser Location: Darmstadt, Germany\n\n\nFirst, prepare the 4 gondolas by pressing the included magnets into the upper holes. Later, the clips, which also carry magnets, will be attached to them. Make sure that all the magnets in the gondolas are oriented in the same polarity so that the magnet clips will be attracted to them later from the opposite polarity.\n\nThe clips have 2 holes on the inside for the magnets. Insert the magnets in the correct orientation so that the magnet clips are attracted to the gondolas. \n\n\nNext, we will attach the 4 gondolas to the aluminum profiles. For this, you will need 16 T-nuts, 16 screws of size M5 x 8, both aluminum profiles, the 4 gondolas, and an Allen key of size 3.\n\n\nMake sure that the front side is the one where the labeling and display are visible and accessible. On the aluminum profiles, there is a hole for the front side.\n\nSlide the T-nuts into the aluminum profile. The rounded side should face downwards, while the flat side should face upwards. Attach the gondolas to the aluminum profiles using the screws. Pay attention to the order as shown in the illustration. The outer gondolas have a logo that faces outward, while the inner ones have labeling. Ensure that the gondolas do not extend beyond the aluminum profiles. The aluminum profiles should protrude about 2 mm outward.\n\n\nNow you can flip the JARVIS Airpath over, as you need to screw in the fans here. Insert the fans into the system, making sure that the tips of the cones are facing inward and the cables for the display are pulled out through the hole in the aluminum profile. Ensure that the fans rotate without touching the cables. Screw the grilles and fans onto the gondola.\n\n\n\n\nTo screw the feet securely, you will need 4 T-nuts, 4 hard plastic washers, 4 rubber feet, 4 screws in size M5 x 14, and an Allen key in size 4.\n\nThe JARVIS Airpath is placed on the rubber feet. The hard plastic washers are positioned between the rubber feet and the aluminum profile. Screw two support feet into the aluminum profile. \n\n\nNow you will attach the control box. For this, you will need 4 T-nuts and 4 screws in size M5 x 8.\n\nInsert the T-nuts into the aluminum profile and screw the control box onto the front side. Make sure to route the power cables through the hole into the box.\n\n\n\n\n\nYou now need the control cover, the display box, the DC jack, 4 set screws, an Allen wrench size 2.5, and a small screwdriver size 0.35 / 2.5.\n\nOpen the display box and remove the green start button from the palette.\n\nNow, attach the display to the control cover. The black border on the display should face downward. Insert the fan control through the smaller hole. Insert the green start button through the larger hole and place it back into the palette. On the inside, first secure the buttons with the thin metal ring, and then tighten the nut.\n\nAttach the DC jack through the side hole of the control box. Thread the cables through the hole into the box.\n\nBefore closing the box, screw the cables into the designated terminals. The black cables go into the \"-\" symbol, and the red cables go into the \"+\" marking.\n\nSecure the control box to the display cover using the set screws. " } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/clothes-hanger-mould-25116/README.md b/howtos/clothes-hanger-mould-25116/README.md index cf9b2f1d2..2f92efd78 100644 --- a/howtos/clothes-hanger-mould-25116/README.md +++ b/howtos/clothes-hanger-mould-25116/README.md @@ -1,23 +1,23 @@ --- title: Clothes Hanger Mould slug: clothes-hanger-mould-25116 -description: This is a CNC machined mold. Locate a suitable CNC provider and get ready to produce numerous hangers. +description: This one is a CNC machined mould, so find your favorite CNC provider and prepare to inject lots of hangers! tags: ["PP","HDPE","LDPE","mould","PS","injection"] category: Moulds difficulty: Hard time: 1-2 weeks -keywords: CNC machining, mold fabrication, aluminum blocks, CNC provider, Bogota CNC services, flange connection guide, Solidworks mold design, nozzle customization, acid etching process, hanger production. +keywords: location: Bogota, Colombia --- # Clothes Hanger Mould ![Clothes Hanger Mould](5b-18c32101a6f.jpg) -This is a CNC machined mold. Locate a suitable CNC provider and get ready to produce numerous hangers. +This one is a CNC machined mould, so find your favorite CNC provider and prepare to inject lots of hangers! User Location: Bogota, Colombia ## Steps ### Step 1: Download the files -Into the files, you will find: +Into the files you'll find: - General drawings - .IGES files @@ -36,25 +36,23 @@ Into the files, you will find: ### Step 2: Machine your mould -For the mold, two aluminum blocks measuring 430mm by 255mm by 25mm (16.93in by 10.04in by 0.98in) are required. +For the mould you will need two aluminum blocks of 430mm by 255mm by 25mm. -Contact a CNC machinist to fabricate the design files. +Find your CNC favorite machinist and send them the files. -You can opt to include a cutout for a logo or keep it flat (both options are available for download). +You can choose to make it with the hole to add your logo or you can leave it flat (both files are in the download) -For customization, modify the dimensions or other design aspects using the editable software file. Please share any innovations. +If you want to go further, you can change the dimentions or any other part of the design with the editable SW file. Don't forget to share all the new ideas! ### Step 3: Select the nozzle -### Nozzle and Flange Connection Guide +According to your machine nozzle, select the type of flange you will use to connect the mould. -Select the appropriate flange for your machine nozzle to connect it to the mold. +For a conical nozzle, it is a flat 6mm flange with a bevel to recieve the nozzle. With slots to stay aligned with the screw heads. It is not fixed to the mold, only pressed with the jack between the mold and the nozzle. -- **Conical Nozzle**: Use a flat 0.24-inch (6mm) flange with a bevel to receive the nozzle. Ensure it aligns with the screw heads through slots. It is not attached to the mold but pressed with a jack between the mold and nozzle. +For a screw nozzle, you have to weld the pipe connector to the flange and fix the flange to the mold with the closing screws. -- **Screw Nozzle**: Weld the pipe connector to the flange and secure the flange to the mold using closing screws. - -Adjust the design as necessary to suit your requirements. +Feel free to addapt the design to your needs or propose a better solution :) ![conic-18c325bb51e.png](./conic-18c325bb51e.png) @@ -64,11 +62,11 @@ Adjust the design as necessary to suit your requirements. ### Step 4: Add the logo -If you decide to include logos in the mold, add the engraved sheet. +If you choosed to make the mold with logos, add the engraved sheet to the mould. -In this example, a metal sheet is engraved using acid etching, a process used in printing. +This example is a metal sheet engraved by acid metal etching. A process commonly used in the printing industry. -Trim and file the sheet to its final size, then fit it into the hole. +Cut and file the sheet to it's final size and embed it inside the hole. ![IMG_20231126_165118811-18c328e0186.jpg](./IMG_20231126_165118811-18c328e0186.jpg) @@ -81,9 +79,9 @@ Trim and file the sheet to its final size, then fit it into the hole. ### Step 5: Inject your hangers! -Heat the machine, insert the plastic, and inject to create your hangers. +Heat up your machine, add the plastic in the color mixture you love and inject your hangers! -The final weight is approximately 81 grams (2.86 ounces). +The final wheight is around 81 grams. ![aaa-18c3299769c.jpg](./aaa-18c3299769c.jpg) @@ -95,76 +93,4 @@ The final weight is approximately 81 grams (2.86 ounces). ![IMG_20231126_172100313-18c3293aad6.jpg](./IMG_20231126_172100313-18c3293aad6.jpg) ## Resources -To facilitate the CNC mold production and injection molding process described, here are the essential components and resources: - -### Tools & Machinery - -- CNC machining services ([Thomasnet Directory](https://www.thomasnet.com/products/cnc-machining-95380005-1.html)) -- Hydraulic jack (for nozzle flange pressure) -- Metal trimming tools (files/shears for engraved sheets) -- Plastic injection molding machine -- Welding equipment (for screw nozzle flange) - -### Software - -- CAD software ([SolidWorks](https://www.solidworks.com)) -- File-compatible viewers for IGES/STEP/Parasolid (e.g., [AutoCAD](https://www.autodesk.com)) -- Vector graphic software for logos ([Adobe Illustrator](https://www.adobe.com)) - -### Hardware - -- Aluminum blocks (430×255×25mm / 16.93×10.04×0.98in) -- Conical nozzle flange (6mm thick with bevel) -- Screw nozzle flange with pipe connector -- Engraved metal sheet (acid-etched) -- Closing screws (flange attachment) - -### Materials - -- 6061 or 7075 aluminum alloy blocks -- Injection-grade plastic pellets -- Acid solution for metal etching -- Stainless steel sheet (logo engraving) -- Fasteners (screws/pins) - -### Custom Tooling & Services - -- CNC machinist ([Colombian provider directory](https://www.alibaba.com/co/cnc-machining-services)) -- Acid etching service (~~[Local print shops](https://www.hubs.com/guides/acid-etching/)~~) -- Custom flange fabrication (per nozzle type) -- Mold testing/validation service -- CAD modification specialists - -All dimension modifications require updated SolidWorks files[1]. For Bogotá-specific machining options, consider industrial zones like Zona Franca de Bogotá[3]. Ensure aluminum blocks meet MIL-A-22771 standards for injection molds[2]. -## References -## References - -### Articles - -- [CNC machines for efficiency in mold manufacturing - Thriam](https://thriam.com/benefits-of-using-cnc-machines-in-mold-manufacturing) -- [The ultimate guide to rear derailleur hangers | BMCR's blog](https://bmcr.com.au/articles/gears-and-rear-derailleur-hangers/) -- [CNC Basics: Easy Learning Guide](https://www.cnccookbook.com/learn-cnc-basics-tutorial/) -- [Helpful Injection Molding Design Guidelines | GrabCAD Tutorials](https://grabcad.com/tutorials/helpful-injection-molding-design-guidelines) -- [What are the CNC Techniques in Mold Making? - JTR China](https://www.jtrmachine.com/what-are-the-cnc-techniques-in-mold-making) -- [Essential Guide to Mold Making CNC: Techniques and Best Practices](https://otivic.com/mold-making-cnc/) - -### Books - -- ~~[CNC Handbook | McGraw-Hill Education](https://www.accessengineeringlibrary.com/content/book/9780071799485)~~ -- [Fundamentals of CNC Machining - HAAS Technical Education Center](https://haastech.tamu.edu/wp-content/uploads/sites/5/2016/05/Autodesk_CNCBOOK.pdf) -- [The Homebrew Industrial Revolution](https://apw.org.nz/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/HomeBrewRevolution_Carson.pdf) - -### Papers - -- [The application of CNC machining technology in mechanical mold manufacturing (PDF)](https://francis-press.com/uploads/papers/I7g2oo6Yab8ZzBwUrlFqm4D1tMGRF4dXAhrYu2Xe.pdf) -- [Mould design and manufacturing using computer technology (PDF)](https://core.ac.uk/download/pdf/148644219.pdf) - -### YouTube - -- [Practical CAD Techniques for Composite Pattern/Mould Design](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dDqTGr8NW7A) -- [How Wood Skateboard Molds are Made (CNC)](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-zVujT_tuKU) -- [Beginner To Advanced — How To Create a Mold— Part 1](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_hgmwhde1So) - -### Open-source Designs - -- [Open Source Skateboard Mold - Good Roads Collective](https://www.goodroadscollective.com/open-source-skateboard-mold) \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/clothes-hanger-mould-25116/config.json b/howtos/clothes-hanger-mould-25116/config.json index 4a425a011..ff1248906 100644 --- a/howtos/clothes-hanger-mould-25116/config.json +++ b/howtos/clothes-hanger-mould-25116/config.json @@ -47,17 +47,17 @@ ], "_animationKey": "unique1", "title": "Download the files", - "text": "Into the files, you will find:\n\n- General drawings\n- .IGES files\n- .STEP files\n- Parasolid files\n- Solidworks editable file" + "text": "Into the files you'll find:\n\n- General drawings\n- .IGES files\n- .STEP files\n- Parasolid files\n- Solidworks editable file" }, { - "text": "For the mold, two aluminum blocks measuring 430mm by 255mm by 25mm (16.93in by 10.04in by 0.98in) are required.\n\nContact a CNC machinist to fabricate the design files.\n\nYou can opt to include a cutout for a logo or keep it flat (both options are available for download).\n\nFor customization, modify the dimensions or other design aspects using the editable software file. Please share any innovations.", + "text": "For the mould you will need two aluminum blocks of 430mm by 255mm by 25mm.\n\nFind your CNC favorite machinist and send them the files.\n\nYou can choose to make it with the hole to add your logo or you can leave it flat (both files are in the download)\n\nIf you want to go further, you can change the dimentions or any other part of the design with the editable SW file. Don't forget to share all the new ideas!", "_animationKey": "unique3", "title": "Machine your mould", "videoUrl": "https://youtu.be/BDUia3cVIVw", "images": [] }, { - "text": "### Nozzle and Flange Connection Guide\n\nSelect the appropriate flange for your machine nozzle to connect it to the mold.\n\n- **Conical Nozzle**: Use a flat 0.24-inch (6mm) flange with a bevel to receive the nozzle. Ensure it aligns with the screw heads through slots. It is not attached to the mold but pressed with a jack between the mold and nozzle.\n\n- **Screw Nozzle**: Weld the pipe connector to the flange and secure the flange to the mold using closing screws. \n\nAdjust the design as necessary to suit your requirements.", + "text": "According to your machine nozzle, select the type of flange you will use to connect the mould.\n\nFor a conical nozzle, it is a flat 6mm flange with a bevel to recieve the nozzle. With slots to stay aligned with the screw heads. It is not fixed to the mold, only pressed with the jack between the mold and the nozzle.\n\nFor a screw nozzle, you have to weld the pipe connector to the flange and fix the flange to the mold with the closing screws.\n\nFeel free to addapt the design to your needs or propose a better solution :)", "title": "Select the nozzle", "_animationKey": "unique2", "images": [ @@ -89,7 +89,7 @@ }, { "_animationKey": "unique3ujspa", - "text": "If you decide to include logos in the mold, add the engraved sheet.\n\nIn this example, a metal sheet is engraved using acid etching, a process used in printing.\n\nTrim and file the sheet to its final size, then fit it into the hole.", + "text": "If you choosed to make the mold with logos, add the engraved sheet to the mould.\n\nThis example is a metal sheet engraved by acid metal etching. A process commonly used in the printing industry.\n\nCut and file the sheet to it's final size and embed it inside the hole.", "title": "Add the logo", "images": [ { @@ -131,7 +131,7 @@ ] }, { - "text": "Heat the machine, insert the plastic, and inject to create your hangers.\n\nThe final weight is approximately 81 grams (2.86 ounces).", + "text": "Heat up your machine, add the plastic in the color mixture you love and inject your hangers!\n\nThe final wheight is around 81 grams.", "title": "Inject your hangers!", "_animationKey": "unique0xshfq", "images": [ @@ -195,7 +195,7 @@ ], "difficulty_level": "Hard", "_createdBy": "el-tornillo-taller", - "description": "This is a CNC machined mold. Locate a suitable CNC provider and get ready to produce numerous hangers.", + "description": "This one is a CNC machined mould, so find your favorite CNC provider and prepare to inject lots of hangers!", "total_downloads": 6, "_id": "oVFPXBsPBChYToZlpIb2", "_modified": "2024-02-11T13:47:01.520Z", @@ -388,9 +388,5 @@ "urls": [] } }, - "content": "This is a CNC machined mold. Locate a suitable CNC provider and get ready to produce numerous hangers.\n\n\nUser Location: Bogota, Colombia\n\nInto the files, you will find:\n\n- General drawings\n- .IGES files\n- .STEP files\n- Parasolid files\n- Solidworks editable file\n\nFor the mold, two aluminum blocks measuring 430mm by 255mm by 25mm (16.93in by 10.04in by 0.98in) are required.\n\nContact a CNC machinist to fabricate the design files.\n\nYou can opt to include a cutout for a logo or keep it flat (both options are available for download).\n\nFor customization, modify the dimensions or other design aspects using the editable software file. Please share any innovations.\n\n### Nozzle and Flange Connection Guide\n\nSelect the appropriate flange for your machine nozzle to connect it to the mold.\n\n- **Conical Nozzle**: Use a flat 0.24-inch (6mm) flange with a bevel to receive the nozzle. Ensure it aligns with the screw heads through slots. It is not attached to the mold but pressed with a jack between the mold and nozzle.\n\n- **Screw Nozzle**: Weld the pipe connector to the flange and secure the flange to the mold using closing screws. \n\nAdjust the design as necessary to suit your requirements.\n\nIf you decide to include logos in the mold, add the engraved sheet.\n\nIn this example, a metal sheet is engraved using acid etching, a process used in printing.\n\nTrim and file the sheet to its final size, then fit it into the hole.\n\nHeat the machine, insert the plastic, and inject to create your hangers.\n\nThe final weight is approximately 81 grams (2.86 ounces).", - "keywords": "CNC machining, mold fabrication, aluminum blocks, CNC provider, Bogota CNC services, flange connection guide, Solidworks mold design, nozzle customization, acid etching process, hanger production.", - "resources": "To facilitate the CNC mold production and injection molding process described, here are the essential components and resources:\n\n### Tools & Machinery\n\n- CNC machining services ([Thomasnet Directory](https://www.thomasnet.com/products/cnc-machining-95380005-1.html))\n- Hydraulic jack (for nozzle flange pressure)\n- Metal trimming tools (files/shears for engraved sheets)\n- Plastic injection molding machine\n- Welding equipment (for screw nozzle flange)\n\n### Software\n\n- CAD software ([SolidWorks](https://www.solidworks.com))\n- File-compatible viewers for IGES/STEP/Parasolid (e.g., [AutoCAD](https://www.autodesk.com))\n- Vector graphic software for logos ([Adobe Illustrator](https://www.adobe.com))\n\n### Hardware\n\n- Aluminum blocks (430×255×25mm / 16.93×10.04×0.98in)\n- Conical nozzle flange (6mm thick with bevel)\n- Screw nozzle flange with pipe connector\n- Engraved metal sheet (acid-etched)\n- Closing screws (flange attachment)\n\n### Materials\n\n- 6061 or 7075 aluminum alloy blocks\n- Injection-grade plastic pellets\n- Acid solution for metal etching\n- Stainless steel sheet (logo engraving)\n- Fasteners (screws/pins)\n\n### Custom Tooling & Services\n\n- CNC machinist ([Colombian provider directory](https://www.alibaba.com/co/cnc-machining-services))\n- Acid etching service (~~[Local print shops](https://www.hubs.com/guides/acid-etching/)~~)\n- Custom flange fabrication (per nozzle type)\n- Mold testing/validation service\n- CAD modification specialists\n\nAll dimension modifications require updated SolidWorks files[1]. For Bogotá-specific machining options, consider industrial zones like Zona Franca de Bogotá[3]. Ensure aluminum blocks meet MIL-A-22771 standards for injection molds[2].", - "references": "## References\n\n### Articles\n\n- [CNC machines for efficiency in mold manufacturing - Thriam](https://thriam.com/benefits-of-using-cnc-machines-in-mold-manufacturing)\n- [The ultimate guide to rear derailleur hangers | BMCR's blog](https://bmcr.com.au/articles/gears-and-rear-derailleur-hangers/)\n- [CNC Basics: Easy Learning Guide](https://www.cnccookbook.com/learn-cnc-basics-tutorial/)\n- [Helpful Injection Molding Design Guidelines | GrabCAD Tutorials](https://grabcad.com/tutorials/helpful-injection-molding-design-guidelines)\n- [What are the CNC Techniques in Mold Making? - JTR China](https://www.jtrmachine.com/what-are-the-cnc-techniques-in-mold-making)\n- [Essential Guide to Mold Making CNC: Techniques and Best Practices](https://otivic.com/mold-making-cnc/)\n\n### Books\n\n- ~~[CNC Handbook | McGraw-Hill Education](https://www.accessengineeringlibrary.com/content/book/9780071799485)~~\n- [Fundamentals of CNC Machining - HAAS Technical Education Center](https://haastech.tamu.edu/wp-content/uploads/sites/5/2016/05/Autodesk_CNCBOOK.pdf)\n- [The Homebrew Industrial Revolution](https://apw.org.nz/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/HomeBrewRevolution_Carson.pdf)\n\n### Papers\n\n- [The application of CNC machining technology in mechanical mold manufacturing (PDF)](https://francis-press.com/uploads/papers/I7g2oo6Yab8ZzBwUrlFqm4D1tMGRF4dXAhrYu2Xe.pdf)\n- [Mould design and manufacturing using computer technology (PDF)](https://core.ac.uk/download/pdf/148644219.pdf)\n\n### YouTube\n\n- [Practical CAD Techniques for Composite Pattern/Mould Design](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dDqTGr8NW7A)\n- [How Wood Skateboard Molds are Made (CNC)](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-zVujT_tuKU)\n- [Beginner To Advanced — How To Create a Mold— Part 1](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_hgmwhde1So)\n\n### Open-source Designs\n\n- [Open Source Skateboard Mold - Good Roads Collective](https://www.goodroadscollective.com/open-source-skateboard-mold)", - "brief": "Find CNC machined mold providers to produce hangers in Bogota, Colombia. Customize your mold with design files and machining options for optimal results." + "content": "This one is a CNC machined mould, so find your favorite CNC provider and prepare to inject lots of hangers!\n\n\nUser Location: Bogota, Colombia\n\nInto the files you'll find:\n\n- General drawings\n- .IGES files\n- .STEP files\n- Parasolid files\n- Solidworks editable file\n\nFor the mould you will need two aluminum blocks of 430mm by 255mm by 25mm.\n\nFind your CNC favorite machinist and send them the files.\n\nYou can choose to make it with the hole to add your logo or you can leave it flat (both files are in the download)\n\nIf you want to go further, you can change the dimentions or any other part of the design with the editable SW file. Don't forget to share all the new ideas!\n\nAccording to your machine nozzle, select the type of flange you will use to connect the mould.\n\nFor a conical nozzle, it is a flat 6mm flange with a bevel to recieve the nozzle. With slots to stay aligned with the screw heads. It is not fixed to the mold, only pressed with the jack between the mold and the nozzle.\n\nFor a screw nozzle, you have to weld the pipe connector to the flange and fix the flange to the mold with the closing screws.\n\nFeel free to addapt the design to your needs or propose a better solution :)\n\nIf you choosed to make the mold with logos, add the engraved sheet to the mould.\n\nThis example is a metal sheet engraved by acid metal etching. A process commonly used in the printing industry.\n\nCut and file the sheet to it's final size and embed it inside the hole.\n\nHeat up your machine, add the plastic in the color mixture you love and inject your hangers!\n\nThe final wheight is around 81 grams." } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/cnc-plastic-sheets-into-products/README.md b/howtos/cnc-plastic-sheets-into-products/README.md index f90c7678a..82be571c9 100644 --- a/howtos/cnc-plastic-sheets-into-products/README.md +++ b/howtos/cnc-plastic-sheets-into-products/README.md @@ -1,34 +1,32 @@ --- title: CNC plastic sheets into products slug: cnc-plastic-sheets-into-products -description: This tutorial outlines the process of cutting HDPE sheets with an X-Carve CNC machine. +description: In this how to, I will show you our process to cut HDPE Sheets using a X-Carve CNC. -Watch the full video in Spanish with subtitles: [YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4LrrFz802To) +Here is the full video in spanish with subtitles https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4LrrFz802To tags: ["HDPE"] category: Guides difficulty: Medium time: < 5 hours -keywords: HDPE cutting, X-Carve CNC, CNC machine tutorial, Easel CAM software, vector graphics Inkscape, CNC Router HDPE, Mexican CNC tutorial, HDPE engraving, CNC leveling, CNC cutting speed +keywords: location: Mexico City, Mexico --- # CNC plastic sheets into products ![CNC plastic sheets into products](Copy_of_ComoCortarPlasticoConCNC_1.png) -This tutorial outlines the process of cutting HDPE sheets with an X-Carve CNC machine. +In this how to, I will show you our process to cut HDPE Sheets using a X-Carve CNC. -Watch the full video in Spanish with subtitles: [YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4LrrFz802To) +Here is the full video in spanish with subtitles https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4LrrFz802To User Location: Mexico City, Mexico ## Steps ### Step 1: Meassure the plastic sheet -### Measurement and Setup +For this step we need to meassure our plastic sheet: Height, Width and Thickness. Our X-Carve machine works with the CAM Software EASEL, for me, the easiest software for CNC milling out there. + +The cool thing about Easel (easel.inventables.com: easel.inventables.com/) is that you can "simulate" you actual material and THEY EVEN HAVE HDPE 2-Colors in their cutting material lists!! + -Measure the plastic sheet's height, width, and thickness. The X-Carve CNC machine uses the Easel CAM software, which allows simulation of materials, including HDPE 2-Colors. -For reference: -- Height: ___ meters (___ inches) -- Width: ___ meters (___ inches) -- Thickness: ___ millimeters (___ inches) ![1.jpg](./1.jpg) @@ -38,16 +36,17 @@ For reference: ### Step 2: Secure sheet -Secure the sheet to the table using the CNC clamps from the X-Carve. +Using the CNC clamps from the X-Carve, secure the sheet to the table, ![3.jpg](./3.jpg) ### Step 3: Choosing a file to cut -Proceed to a vector graphics editor like Inkscape to create or download a vector file from sites such as [The Noun Project](https://thenounproject.com). +Now we go to our illustrator, such as Inkscape to design a vector file or download and open source one frome thenounproject.com: thenounproject.com + +We download the SVG file, which is an open source vector format and import it to Easel. -Download the SVG file, an open-source vector format, and import it into Easel. ![4.jpg](./4.jpg) @@ -57,12 +56,13 @@ Download the SVG file, an open-source vector format, and import it into Easel. ### Step 4: Follow the cutting Wizzard -With the file ready, select the desired carving width and initiate the cutting process: +Now with the file we can choose the width we want to carve/cut and then we go to cut and start the wizzard: +- We check that the sheet is fixed. +- We also specify the cutting bit, we are using a 1/8 flat flute bit. +- We tell the machine where the coordinate 0-0 is, which we always choose as the down left corner. +- We raise the bit, turn on the CNC Router!!! -- Ensure the sheet is secured. -- Specify the cutting bit, such as a 1/8 inch (3.175 mm) flat flute bit. -- Set the machine’s coordinate origin at the lower-left corner. -- Raise the bit and activate the CNC Router. +AND PUM THE MAGIC BEGINS!! ![6.jpg](./6.jpg) @@ -75,11 +75,12 @@ With the file ready, select the desired carving width and initiate the cutting p ### Step 5: Cutting HDPE vs other material -**CNC Processing of Various Materials** +Normaly we cut wood, acrylic and aluminum in the CNC. Moving to plastic wasn't hard at all, it's impressing how easy the CNC Router +cuts through HDPE. It's quicker than cutting wood and 10 times than aluminum. -Typically, we cut wood, acrylic, and aluminum using the CNC. Transitioning to plastic, specifically HDPE, proved uncomplicated. The CNC Router handles HDPE with ease, outpacing wood and vastly surpassing aluminum in speed. +The main problem we have with the HDPE sheets is that we don't always have even surfaces, because of our sheet making process, resulting in uneven cuts and engravings. -Our primary challenge with HDPE sheets arises from uneven surfaces due to our production process, leading to inconsistent cuts and engravings. To address this, we often perform an initial CNC pass to level the sheet's surface. +That's why we sometimes do a first pass with the CNC Router "cleaning" the surface of the sheet and trying to mill an even surface. ![IMG_20210108_192930.jpg](./IMG_20210108_192930.jpg) @@ -92,9 +93,10 @@ Our primary challenge with HDPE sheets arises from uneven surfaces due to our pr ### Step 6: Post-production and show case -### Final Version +You take now your glasses or object and postprocess them and of course show it to your friends, family and so on. + + -Take your glasses or object, post-process them, and share the results with others. ![9.jpg](./9.jpg) @@ -103,32 +105,4 @@ Take your glasses or object, post-process them, and share the results with other ![Sin título.png](./Sin_titulo.png) ## Resources -### Hardware - -- [X-Carve CNC Machine](https://www.inventables.com/technologies/x-carve) -- CNC clamps (for securing sheets) - -### Software - -- [Easel CAM](https://easel.inventables.com) (for material simulation and cutting control) -- [Inkscape](https://inkscape.org) (vector graphics editor) -- [The Noun Project](https://thenounproject.com) (source for SVG files) - -### Tools - -- 1/8 inch (3.175 mm) flat flute cutting bit -- HDPE sheets (material to be processed) - -### Post-Processing - -- Sanding/polishing tools (for finishing) -## References -## References - -### YouTube - -- [How to Cut HDPE Sheets with X-Carve CNC](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4LrrFz802To) - -### Opensource Designs - -- [The Noun Project (Vector Graphics)](https://thenounproject.com) \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/cnc-plastic-sheets-into-products/config.json b/howtos/cnc-plastic-sheets-into-products/config.json index 1a215f694..5830b602d 100644 --- a/howtos/cnc-plastic-sheets-into-products/config.json +++ b/howtos/cnc-plastic-sheets-into-products/config.json @@ -64,7 +64,7 @@ }, "_modified": "2023-11-14T16:29:11.449Z", "difficulty_level": "Medium", - "description": "This tutorial outlines the process of cutting HDPE sheets with an X-Carve CNC machine.\n\nWatch the full video in Spanish with subtitles: [YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4LrrFz802To)", + "description": "In this how to, I will show you our process to cut HDPE Sheets using a X-Carve CNC.\n\nHere is the full video in spanish with subtitles https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4LrrFz802To ", "_createdBy": "gus-merckel", "slug": "cnc-plastic-sheets-into-products", "mentions": [], @@ -74,7 +74,7 @@ "steps": [ { "title": "Meassure the plastic sheet", - "text": "### Measurement and Setup\n\nMeasure the plastic sheet's height, width, and thickness. The X-Carve CNC machine uses the Easel CAM software, which allows simulation of materials, including HDPE 2-Colors. \n\nFor reference: \n- Height: ___ meters (___ inches) \n- Width: ___ meters (___ inches) \n- Thickness: ___ millimeters (___ inches)", + "text": "For this step we need to meassure our plastic sheet: Height, Width and Thickness. Our X-Carve machine works with the CAM Software EASEL, for me, the easiest software for CNC milling out there. \n\nThe cool thing about Easel (easel.inventables.com: easel.inventables.com/) is that you can \"simulate\" you actual material and THEY EVEN HAVE HDPE 2-Colors in their cutting material lists!!\n\n\n", "images": [ { "updated": "2021-03-26T19:42:05.766Z", @@ -104,7 +104,7 @@ "_animationKey": "unique1" }, { - "text": "Secure the sheet to the table using the CNC clamps from the X-Carve.", + "text": "Using the CNC clamps from the X-Carve, secure the sheet to the table, ", "title": "Secure sheet ", "_animationKey": "unique2", "images": [ @@ -151,7 +151,7 @@ } ], "_animationKey": "unique3", - "text": "Proceed to a vector graphics editor like Inkscape to create or download a vector file from sites such as [The Noun Project](https://thenounproject.com).\n\nDownload the SVG file, an open-source vector format, and import it into Easel." + "text": "Now we go to our illustrator, such as Inkscape to design a vector file or download and open source one frome thenounproject.com: thenounproject.com\n\nWe download the SVG file, which is an open source vector format and import it to Easel. \n" }, { "images": [ @@ -192,12 +192,12 @@ "alt": "8.jpg" } ], - "text": "With the file ready, select the desired carving width and initiate the cutting process:\n\n- Ensure the sheet is secured.\n- Specify the cutting bit, such as a 1/8 inch (3.175 mm) flat flute bit.\n- Set the machine’s coordinate origin at the lower-left corner.\n- Raise the bit and activate the CNC Router.", + "text": "Now with the file we can choose the width we want to carve/cut and then we go to cut and start the wizzard:\n- We check that the sheet is fixed.\n- We also specify the cutting bit, we are using a 1/8 flat flute bit. \n- We tell the machine where the coordinate 0-0 is, which we always choose as the down left corner.\n- We raise the bit, turn on the CNC Router!!!\n\nAND PUM THE MAGIC BEGINS!!", "title": "Follow the cutting Wizzard", "_animationKey": "uniquenisc2v" }, { - "text": "**CNC Processing of Various Materials**\n\nTypically, we cut wood, acrylic, and aluminum using the CNC. Transitioning to plastic, specifically HDPE, proved uncomplicated. The CNC Router handles HDPE with ease, outpacing wood and vastly surpassing aluminum in speed.\n\nOur primary challenge with HDPE sheets arises from uneven surfaces due to our production process, leading to inconsistent cuts and engravings. To address this, we often perform an initial CNC pass to level the sheet's surface.", + "text": "Normaly we cut wood, acrylic and aluminum in the CNC. Moving to plastic wasn't hard at all, it's impressing how easy the CNC Router\ncuts through HDPE. It's quicker than cutting wood and 10 times than aluminum. \n\nThe main problem we have with the HDPE sheets is that we don't always have even surfaces, because of our sheet making process, resulting in uneven cuts and engravings. \n\nThat's why we sometimes do a first pass with the CNC Router \"cleaning\" the surface of the sheet and trying to mill an even surface. ", "_animationKey": "uniquef3y5uqb", "images": [ { @@ -267,7 +267,7 @@ "alt": "Sin título.png" } ], - "text": "### Final Version\n\nTake your glasses or object, post-process them, and share the results with others.", + "text": "You take now your glasses or object and postprocess them and of course show it to your friends, family and so on.\n\n\n", "_animationKey": "uniquesgl34" } ], @@ -411,9 +411,5 @@ "urls": [] } }, - "content": "This tutorial outlines the process of cutting HDPE sheets with an X-Carve CNC machine.\n\nWatch the full video in Spanish with subtitles: [YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4LrrFz802To)\n\n\nUser Location: Mexico City, Mexico\n\n### Measurement and Setup\n\nMeasure the plastic sheet's height, width, and thickness. The X-Carve CNC machine uses the Easel CAM software, which allows simulation of materials, including HDPE 2-Colors. \n\nFor reference: \n- Height: ___ meters (___ inches) \n- Width: ___ meters (___ inches) \n- Thickness: ___ millimeters (___ inches)\n\nSecure the sheet to the table using the CNC clamps from the X-Carve.\n\nProceed to a vector graphics editor like Inkscape to create or download a vector file from sites such as [The Noun Project](https://thenounproject.com).\n\nDownload the SVG file, an open-source vector format, and import it into Easel.\n\nWith the file ready, select the desired carving width and initiate the cutting process:\n\n- Ensure the sheet is secured.\n- Specify the cutting bit, such as a 1/8 inch (3.175 mm) flat flute bit.\n- Set the machine’s coordinate origin at the lower-left corner.\n- Raise the bit and activate the CNC Router.\n\n**CNC Processing of Various Materials**\n\nTypically, we cut wood, acrylic, and aluminum using the CNC. Transitioning to plastic, specifically HDPE, proved uncomplicated. The CNC Router handles HDPE with ease, outpacing wood and vastly surpassing aluminum in speed.\n\nOur primary challenge with HDPE sheets arises from uneven surfaces due to our production process, leading to inconsistent cuts and engravings. To address this, we often perform an initial CNC pass to level the sheet's surface.\n\n### Final Version\n\nTake your glasses or object, post-process them, and share the results with others.", - "keywords": "HDPE cutting, X-Carve CNC, CNC machine tutorial, Easel CAM software, vector graphics Inkscape, CNC Router HDPE, Mexican CNC tutorial, HDPE engraving, CNC leveling, CNC cutting speed", - "resources": "### Hardware\n\n- [X-Carve CNC Machine](https://www.inventables.com/technologies/x-carve)\n- CNC clamps (for securing sheets)\n\n### Software\n\n- [Easel CAM](https://easel.inventables.com) (for material simulation and cutting control)\n- [Inkscape](https://inkscape.org) (vector graphics editor)\n- [The Noun Project](https://thenounproject.com) (source for SVG files)\n\n### Tools\n\n- 1/8 inch (3.175 mm) flat flute cutting bit\n- HDPE sheets (material to be processed)\n\n### Post-Processing\n\n- Sanding/polishing tools (for finishing)", - "references": "## References\n\n### YouTube\n\n- [How to Cut HDPE Sheets with X-Carve CNC](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4LrrFz802To)\n\n### Opensource Designs\n\n- [The Noun Project (Vector Graphics)](https://thenounproject.com)", - "brief": "Learn to cut HDPE sheets with an X-Carve CNC machine using Easel software for precise and efficient results. Perfect for beginners and experts alike!" + "content": "In this how to, I will show you our process to cut HDPE Sheets using a X-Carve CNC.\n\nHere is the full video in spanish with subtitles https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4LrrFz802To \n\n\nUser Location: Mexico City, Mexico\n\nFor this step we need to meassure our plastic sheet: Height, Width and Thickness. Our X-Carve machine works with the CAM Software EASEL, for me, the easiest software for CNC milling out there. \n\nThe cool thing about Easel (easel.inventables.com: easel.inventables.com/) is that you can \"simulate\" you actual material and THEY EVEN HAVE HDPE 2-Colors in their cutting material lists!!\n\n\n\n\nUsing the CNC clamps from the X-Carve, secure the sheet to the table, \n\nNow we go to our illustrator, such as Inkscape to design a vector file or download and open source one frome thenounproject.com: thenounproject.com\n\nWe download the SVG file, which is an open source vector format and import it to Easel. \n\n\nNow with the file we can choose the width we want to carve/cut and then we go to cut and start the wizzard:\n- We check that the sheet is fixed.\n- We also specify the cutting bit, we are using a 1/8 flat flute bit. \n- We tell the machine where the coordinate 0-0 is, which we always choose as the down left corner.\n- We raise the bit, turn on the CNC Router!!!\n\nAND PUM THE MAGIC BEGINS!!\n\nNormaly we cut wood, acrylic and aluminum in the CNC. Moving to plastic wasn't hard at all, it's impressing how easy the CNC Router\ncuts through HDPE. It's quicker than cutting wood and 10 times than aluminum. \n\nThe main problem we have with the HDPE sheets is that we don't always have even surfaces, because of our sheet making process, resulting in uneven cuts and engravings. \n\nThat's why we sometimes do a first pass with the CNC Router \"cleaning\" the surface of the sheet and trying to mill an even surface. \n\nYou take now your glasses or object and postprocess them and of course show it to your friends, family and so on.\n\n\n" } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/coaster-from-coffee-waste/README.md b/howtos/coaster-from-coffee-waste/README.md index c8f4d291f..8b0a5edf6 100644 --- a/howtos/coaster-from-coffee-waste/README.md +++ b/howtos/coaster-from-coffee-waste/README.md @@ -1,23 +1,23 @@ --- title: Coaster from coffee waste slug: coaster-from-coffee-waste -description: The increasing popularity of coffee results in significant waste from coffee grounds. Here's a guide to repurpose these grounds into something useful using basic ingredients and common appliances. +description: This exponential coffee craze has led us to a staggering amount of coffee ground that is just wasted. Here is how you can turn that waste into something more valuable with all the simple ingredients and also appliances used. tags: ["mould","product"] category: uncategorized difficulty: Easy time: < 1 week -keywords: coffee waste recycling, repurposing coffee grounds, DIY brick making, tapioca starch binder, sustainable waste management, eco-friendly DIY project, coffee ground crafts, homemade building materials, Cikarang green initiatives, coffee ground uses +keywords: location: Cikarang, Indonesia --- # Coaster from coffee waste ![Coaster from coffee waste](aaaa-1855bcf8ce9.png) -The increasing popularity of coffee results in significant waste from coffee grounds. Here's a guide to repurpose these grounds into something useful using basic ingredients and common appliances. +This exponential coffee craze has led us to a staggering amount of coffee ground that is just wasted. Here is how you can turn that waste into something more valuable with all the simple ingredients and also appliances used. User Location: Cikarang, Indonesia ## Steps ### Step 1: Prepare all the ingredients -Prepare all ingredients before beginning, as the process is rapid. For this specific brick and mold, combine 7 tablespoons (103.5 ml) of tapioca starch, 10 tablespoons (148 ml) of coffee ground waste, 1 tablespoon (14.8 ml) of vinegar, and 180 ml (6.1 fl oz) of water. Experiment with different ratios for varied characteristics. Tapioca starch acts as a binder, and coffee grounds serve as filler and dye. Mix thoroughly until smooth. +Prep all the ingredients now as the cooking process occurs quickly. For this particular brick and mold, I use a mixture of 7 tbsp of tapioca starch, 10 tbsp of coffee ground waste, 1 tbsp of vinegar, and 180 ml of water. However, different blends can create different brick characteristics, so try various ratios for different results. The tapioca starch acts as a binding agent while the coffee ground is the “filler” and the dye. Mix all the ingredients well until there are no lumps in the mixture. ![IMG_20221217_142537_871-1855bc7f45b.jpg](./IMG_20221217_142537_871-1855bc7f45b.jpg) @@ -27,7 +27,7 @@ Prepare all ingredients before beginning, as the process is rapid. For this spec ### Step 2: Cooking process -This process requires quick action. Cook the mixture on low heat, stirring continuously until it thickens. Once thickened, turn off the heat to complete the cooking process. +This process is fast so get into high gear! Cook the mixture on low heat while constantly stirring it until it thickens. Once the mixture has thickened, turn off the heat, and the cooking process is done. ![IMG_20221219_123806_343-1855bca0bfc.jpg](./IMG_20221219_123806_343-1855bca0bfc.jpg) @@ -37,7 +37,7 @@ This process requires quick action. Cook the mixture on low heat, stirring conti ### Step 3: Mold your mixture -Transfer the thickened mixture to your mold. Use wax or line the mold with wax paper for easy release once dried. +Transfer the thickened mixture to your mold. You can use wax or line the mold using wax paper to help release the mold when it has dried out. ![IMG_20221219_124101_820-1855bcb6a26.jpg](./IMG_20221219_124101_820-1855bcb6a26.jpg) @@ -47,7 +47,7 @@ Transfer the thickened mixture to your mold. Use wax or line the mold with wax p ### Step 4: Waiting Game -Allow the mixture to dry into a solid piece at room temperature for 2 to 4 days, depending on the mold size and brick thickness. Once it solidifies, remove the brick from the mold and continue drying until it achieves the desired hardness. To expedite the process, consider using an oven. +Let the mixture dry into a solid piece at room temperature. This process can take from 2 up to 4 days depending on the size of the mold and the thickness of the brick. After it already forms into a solid brick, pull the brick out of the mold and dry it further until the brick is as hard as desired. You can also speed up this process by using an oven to quickly dry the brick. ![putih2-1855bcc11bd.jpg](./putih2-1855bcc11bd.jpg) @@ -56,54 +56,4 @@ Allow the mixture to dry into a solid piece at room temperature for 2 to 4 days, ![gelas2-1855bcc250d.jpg](./gelas2-1855bcc250d.jpg) ## Resources -### Ingredients - -- Tapioca starch (binder) [^1] -- Coffee ground waste (filler/dye) [^1] -- Vinegar [^1] -- Water [^1] - -### Tools & Equipment - -- Mixing bowl [^1] -- Stirring utensil [^1] -- Stove/cooktop (low heat) [^1] - -### Molding Supplies - -- Mold (size varies) [^1] -- Wax or wax paper (for mold lining) [^1] - -### Drying Equipment - -- Room-temperature drying space (2–4 days) [^1] -- Oven (optional, for faster drying) [^1] - -[^1]: Tutorial text details -## References -Here is the organized list of references grouped by type: - -### Articles - -- [How to Make a Coffee Fire Log](https://www.instructables.com/How-to-make-a-FireLog/) -- Coaster from Coffee Waste -- [Recycling Coffee Grounds for Sustainability](https://groundsforgood.co.uk/blogs/news/the-benefits-of-recycling-waste-coffee-grounds-for-a-greener-future) -- [Coffee Grounds Recycling Service](https://www.envar.co.uk/coffee-grounds-recycling/) -- [Red-Brick Coffee Shop Design](https://www.azuremagazine.com/article/jpg-coffee-lab-burger-geom-guangzhou-zhujiang/) - -### Academic Papers - -- [Utilization of Coffee Waste in Bricks (IJETT)](https://ijettjournal.org/assets/year/2016/volume-39/number-4/IJETT-V39P238.pdf) -- [Spent Coffee Grounds as Building Material (PMC)](https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC8911109/) -- [Coffee Grounds in Sand Concrete (Aljest)](https://www.aljest.net/index.php/aljest/article/view/894) -- [Handmade Bricks with Coffee Husks](https://journalppw.com/index.php/jppw/article/download/15737/10112/19328) - -### YouTube - -- [Coffee Briquettes as Fuel](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BrUE1Hs82iQ) -- [DIY Coffee Ground Firestarters](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UEdyMyFaU3g) - -### Open-Source Designs - -- [Broke: Open-Source NFC Tag Project](https://posts.oztamir.com/broke-an-open-source-alternative-to-brick/) -- [filtered] Coffee Waste Design \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/coaster-from-coffee-waste/config.json b/howtos/coaster-from-coffee-waste/config.json index 6350481fe..e1e96fa3d 100644 --- a/howtos/coaster-from-coffee-waste/config.json +++ b/howtos/coaster-from-coffee-waste/config.json @@ -7,7 +7,7 @@ ], "steps": [ { - "text": "Prepare all ingredients before beginning, as the process is rapid. For this specific brick and mold, combine 7 tablespoons (103.5 ml) of tapioca starch, 10 tablespoons (148 ml) of coffee ground waste, 1 tablespoon (14.8 ml) of vinegar, and 180 ml (6.1 fl oz) of water. Experiment with different ratios for varied characteristics. Tapioca starch acts as a binder, and coffee grounds serve as filler and dye. Mix thoroughly until smooth.", + "text": "Prep all the ingredients now as the cooking process occurs quickly. For this particular brick and mold, I use a mixture of 7 tbsp of tapioca starch, 10 tbsp of coffee ground waste, 1 tbsp of vinegar, and 180 ml of water. However, different blends can create different brick characteristics, so try various ratios for different results. The tapioca starch acts as a binding agent while the coffee ground is the “filler” and the dye. Mix all the ingredients well until there are no lumps in the mixture. ", "title": "Prepare all the ingredients", "images": [ { @@ -66,7 +66,7 @@ } ], "title": "Cooking process", - "text": "This process requires quick action. Cook the mixture on low heat, stirring continuously until it thickens. Once thickened, turn off the heat to complete the cooking process." + "text": "This process is fast so get into high gear! Cook the mixture on low heat while constantly stirring it until it thickens. Once the mixture has thickened, turn off the heat, and the cooking process is done." }, { "images": [ @@ -97,7 +97,7 @@ ], "title": "Mold your mixture", "_animationKey": "unique3", - "text": "Transfer the thickened mixture to your mold. Use wax or line the mold with wax paper for easy release once dried." + "text": "Transfer the thickened mixture to your mold. You can use wax or line the mold using wax paper to help release the mold when it has dried out. " }, { "images": [ @@ -127,7 +127,7 @@ } ], "title": "Waiting Game", - "text": "Allow the mixture to dry into a solid piece at room temperature for 2 to 4 days, depending on the mold size and brick thickness. Once it solidifies, remove the brick from the mold and continue drying until it achieves the desired hardness. To expedite the process, consider using an oven.", + "text": "Let the mixture dry into a solid piece at room temperature. This process can take from 2 up to 4 days depending on the size of the mold and the thickness of the brick. After it already forms into a solid brick, pull the brick out of the mold and dry it further until the brick is as hard as desired. You can also speed up this process by using an oven to quickly dry the brick.", "_animationKey": "uniquehgn2fp" } ], @@ -174,7 +174,7 @@ "mentions": [], "total_downloads": 0, "total_views": 576, - "description": "The increasing popularity of coffee results in significant waste from coffee grounds. Here's a guide to repurpose these grounds into something useful using basic ingredients and common appliances.", + "description": "This exponential coffee craze has led us to a staggering amount of coffee ground that is just wasted. Here is how you can turn that waste into something more valuable with all the simple ingredients and also appliances used.", "creatorCountry": "id", "slug": "coaster-from-coffee-waste", "difficulty_level": "Easy", @@ -362,9 +362,5 @@ "category": { "label": "uncategorized" }, - "content": "The increasing popularity of coffee results in significant waste from coffee grounds. Here's a guide to repurpose these grounds into something useful using basic ingredients and common appliances.\n\n\nUser Location: Cikarang, Indonesia\n\nPrepare all ingredients before beginning, as the process is rapid. For this specific brick and mold, combine 7 tablespoons (103.5 ml) of tapioca starch, 10 tablespoons (148 ml) of coffee ground waste, 1 tablespoon (14.8 ml) of vinegar, and 180 ml (6.1 fl oz) of water. Experiment with different ratios for varied characteristics. Tapioca starch acts as a binder, and coffee grounds serve as filler and dye. Mix thoroughly until smooth.\n\nThis process requires quick action. Cook the mixture on low heat, stirring continuously until it thickens. Once thickened, turn off the heat to complete the cooking process.\n\nTransfer the thickened mixture to your mold. Use wax or line the mold with wax paper for easy release once dried.\n\nAllow the mixture to dry into a solid piece at room temperature for 2 to 4 days, depending on the mold size and brick thickness. Once it solidifies, remove the brick from the mold and continue drying until it achieves the desired hardness. To expedite the process, consider using an oven.", - "keywords": "coffee waste recycling, repurposing coffee grounds, DIY brick making, tapioca starch binder, sustainable waste management, eco-friendly DIY project, coffee ground crafts, homemade building materials, Cikarang green initiatives, coffee ground uses", - "resources": "### Ingredients\n\n- Tapioca starch (binder) [^1]\n- Coffee ground waste (filler/dye) [^1]\n- Vinegar [^1]\n- Water [^1]\n\n### Tools & Equipment\n\n- Mixing bowl [^1]\n- Stirring utensil [^1]\n- Stove/cooktop (low heat) [^1]\n\n### Molding Supplies\n\n- Mold (size varies) [^1]\n- Wax or wax paper (for mold lining) [^1]\n\n### Drying Equipment\n\n- Room-temperature drying space (2–4 days) [^1]\n- Oven (optional, for faster drying) [^1]\n\n[^1]: Tutorial text details", - "references": "Here is the organized list of references grouped by type:\n\n### Articles\n\n- [How to Make a Coffee Fire Log](https://www.instructables.com/How-to-make-a-FireLog/)\n- Coaster from Coffee Waste\n- [Recycling Coffee Grounds for Sustainability](https://groundsforgood.co.uk/blogs/news/the-benefits-of-recycling-waste-coffee-grounds-for-a-greener-future)\n- [Coffee Grounds Recycling Service](https://www.envar.co.uk/coffee-grounds-recycling/)\n- [Red-Brick Coffee Shop Design](https://www.azuremagazine.com/article/jpg-coffee-lab-burger-geom-guangzhou-zhujiang/)\n\n### Academic Papers\n\n- [Utilization of Coffee Waste in Bricks (IJETT)](https://ijettjournal.org/assets/year/2016/volume-39/number-4/IJETT-V39P238.pdf)\n- [Spent Coffee Grounds as Building Material (PMC)](https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC8911109/)\n- [Coffee Grounds in Sand Concrete (Aljest)](https://www.aljest.net/index.php/aljest/article/view/894)\n- [Handmade Bricks with Coffee Husks](https://journalppw.com/index.php/jppw/article/download/15737/10112/19328)\n\n### YouTube\n\n- [Coffee Briquettes as Fuel](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BrUE1Hs82iQ)\n- [DIY Coffee Ground Firestarters](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UEdyMyFaU3g)\n\n### Open-Source Designs\n\n- [Broke: Open-Source NFC Tag Project](https://posts.oztamir.com/broke-an-open-source-alternative-to-brick/)\n- [filtered] Coffee Waste Design", - "brief": "Repurpose coffee grounds into eco-friendly bricks using tapioca starch and vinegar. Follow our guide for a sustainable solution to coffee waste." + "content": "This exponential coffee craze has led us to a staggering amount of coffee ground that is just wasted. Here is how you can turn that waste into something more valuable with all the simple ingredients and also appliances used.\n\n\nUser Location: Cikarang, Indonesia\n\nPrep all the ingredients now as the cooking process occurs quickly. For this particular brick and mold, I use a mixture of 7 tbsp of tapioca starch, 10 tbsp of coffee ground waste, 1 tbsp of vinegar, and 180 ml of water. However, different blends can create different brick characteristics, so try various ratios for different results. The tapioca starch acts as a binding agent while the coffee ground is the “filler” and the dye. Mix all the ingredients well until there are no lumps in the mixture. \n\nThis process is fast so get into high gear! Cook the mixture on low heat while constantly stirring it until it thickens. Once the mixture has thickened, turn off the heat, and the cooking process is done.\n\nTransfer the thickened mixture to your mold. You can use wax or line the mold using wax paper to help release the mold when it has dried out. \n\nLet the mixture dry into a solid piece at room temperature. This process can take from 2 up to 4 days depending on the size of the mold and the thickness of the brick. After it already forms into a solid brick, pull the brick out of the mold and dry it further until the brick is as hard as desired. You can also speed up this process by using an oven to quickly dry the brick." } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/collect-more-of-one-plastic-type/README.md b/howtos/collect-more-of-one-plastic-type/README.md index 609896da4..ff3542299 100644 --- a/howtos/collect-more-of-one-plastic-type/README.md +++ b/howtos/collect-more-of-one-plastic-type/README.md @@ -1,27 +1,35 @@ --- title: Collect more of one Plastic Type! slug: collect-more-of-one-plastic-type -description: Interested in gathering a specific type of plastic for a project? +description: Want to collect more of a certain type of plastic for a specific project? -Learn our methods here. +Find out how we do it here 🙂 tags: ["collection"] category: uncategorized difficulty: Easy time: < 1 hour -keywords: plastic recycling, HDPE2 collection, PP05 items, Worksop plastic projects, local recycling methods, plastic art projects, HDPE2 products, PP05 recycling, UK plastic sorting, community plastic gathering +keywords: location: Worksop, United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland (the) --- # Collect more of one Plastic Type! ![Collect more of one Plastic Type!](Screenshot_2021-07-09-20-37-08-937.jpg) -Interested in gathering a specific type of plastic for a project? +Want to collect more of a certain type of plastic for a specific project? -Learn our methods here. +Find out how we do it here 🙂 User Location: Worksop, United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland (the) ## Steps ### Step 1: Decide which Plastic you need -To begin a project involving HDPE2, identify local products made from this material. Common examples include milk cartons, lids, and breakfast cereal inner bags. Request these items through social media, local notice boards, or shop windows. +If you are wanting to do an HDPE2 based project, don't ask the community for HDPE2... + +...🤔 + +...instead find out which products used locally are made from HDPE2 😀 + +For us, this would be milk cartons, lids and breakfast cereal inner bags 😁 + +Then ask for these...on social media, local Post Office notice board or a shop window! ![IMG_20210930_105228.jpg](./IMG_20210930_105228.jpg) @@ -34,9 +42,15 @@ To begin a project involving HDPE2, identify local products made from this mater ### Step 2: Another type of plastic? -After completing that project, consider another endeavor: +Once you have completed that project... -PP05: Request contact lens covers and cases, Chinese-style pots, or chocolate and sweet wrappers. +...it's time for another type and another project 🙂 + +PP05...just ask for Contact Lense covers and cases... + +Or Chinese type pots... + +Or even chocolate & sweet wrappers 😀 ![IMG_20210813_184238.jpg](./IMG_20210813_184238.jpg) @@ -49,53 +63,18 @@ PP05: Request contact lens covers and cases, Chinese-style pots, or chocolate an ### Step 3: How about another Project? -Certainly! Here's the revised text: +While you wait for enough materials to come in for your projects... ---- +Why not try out a different perspective 🤔 -While awaiting materials for your projects, consider using plastic for an art project to enhance your workspace. Happy sorting. +Use plastic for an artwork project to brighten up your workspace 😃 + +Happy sorting 😊💖 + +Recycle Today to Save Tomorrow 🌍🌞 ![IMG_20210930_121604.jpg](./IMG_20210930_121604.jpg) ## Resources -To address the query, here's the structured information extracted from the provided tutorial: - -### Tools - -- Social media platforms ([Facebook Marketplace](https://www.facebook.com/marketplace)) -- Local notice boards ([Gumtree Worksop](https://www.gumtree.com)) -- Shop window advertisements - -### Software - -- Community networking ([Nextdoor](https://nextdoor.co.uk)) -- Material-sharing platforms ([Freecycle](https://www.freecycle.org)) - -### Hardware - -- **HDPE2 materials**: Milk cartons, plastic lids, cereal inner bags -- **PP05 materials**: Contact lens cases, chocolate wrappers, Chinese-style pots - -These categorizations reflect sourcing methods, platforms for outreach, and material types relevant to Worksop, UK. -## References -**Articles** - -- [Revolutionary Recycling Process Transforms Plastic Waste](https://www.energy.gov/eere/bioenergy/articles/revolutionary-recycling-process-transforms-plastic-waste) [1] - -**Books** - -- [Understanding Plastics Recycling 2E: Economic, Ecological, and Technical Aspects of Plastic Waste Handling](https://www.barnesandnoble.com/w/understanding-plastics-recycling-2e-natalie-rudolph/1137695178) [2] -- [Small-scale Recycling of Plastics](https://practicalactionpublishing.com/book/1999/small-scale-recycling-of-plastics) [8] - -**Papers** - -- [Plastics Recycling: Challenges and Opportunities](https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC2873020/) [7] - -**YouTube** - -- [What Is The Plastic Recycling Process](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JmXf0JgiLTw) [4] - -**Opensource Designs** - -- [[filtered] by Dave Hakkens: Open-Source Plastic Recycling Workshop](https://www.designboom.com/technology/precious-plastic-dave-hakkens-recycling-workshop-06-02-2014/) [5] \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/collect-more-of-one-plastic-type/config.json b/howtos/collect-more-of-one-plastic-type/config.json index aa41fb102..2dc7ccc57 100644 --- a/howtos/collect-more-of-one-plastic-type/config.json +++ b/howtos/collect-more-of-one-plastic-type/config.json @@ -69,11 +69,11 @@ ], "title": "Decide which Plastic you need", "_animationKey": "unique1", - "text": "To begin a project involving HDPE2, identify local products made from this material. Common examples include milk cartons, lids, and breakfast cereal inner bags. Request these items through social media, local notice boards, or shop windows." + "text": "If you are wanting to do an HDPE2 based project, don't ask the community for HDPE2...\n\n...🤔\n\n...instead find out which products used locally are made from HDPE2 😀\n\nFor us, this would be milk cartons, lids and breakfast cereal inner bags 😁\n\nThen ask for these...on social media, local Post Office notice board or a shop window!" }, { "_animationKey": "unique2", - "text": "After completing that project, consider another endeavor:\n\nPP05: Request contact lens covers and cases, Chinese-style pots, or chocolate and sweet wrappers.", + "text": "Once you have completed that project...\n\n...it's time for another type and another project 🙂\n\nPP05...just ask for Contact Lense covers and cases...\n\nOr Chinese type pots...\n\nOr even chocolate & sweet wrappers 😀", "title": "Another type of plastic?", "images": [ { @@ -131,11 +131,11 @@ "alt": "IMG_20210930_121604.jpg" } ], - "text": "Certainly! Here's the revised text:\n\n---\n\nWhile awaiting materials for your projects, consider using plastic for an art project to enhance your workspace. Happy sorting." + "text": "While you wait for enough materials to come in for your projects...\n\nWhy not try out a different perspective 🤔\n\nUse plastic for an artwork project to brighten up your workspace 😃\n\nHappy sorting 😊💖\n\nRecycle Today to Save Tomorrow 🌍🌞" } ], "title": "Collect more of one Plastic Type!", - "description": "Interested in gathering a specific type of plastic for a project?\n\nLearn our methods here.", + "description": "Want to collect more of a certain type of plastic for a specific project?\n\nFind out how we do it here 🙂", "_created": "2021-09-30T11:21:57.049Z", "_deleted": false, "_modified": "2024-01-27T11:04:55.949Z", @@ -324,9 +324,5 @@ "category": { "label": "uncategorized" }, - "content": "Interested in gathering a specific type of plastic for a project?\n\nLearn our methods here.\n\n\nUser Location: Worksop, United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland (the)\n\nTo begin a project involving HDPE2, identify local products made from this material. Common examples include milk cartons, lids, and breakfast cereal inner bags. Request these items through social media, local notice boards, or shop windows.\n\nAfter completing that project, consider another endeavor:\n\nPP05: Request contact lens covers and cases, Chinese-style pots, or chocolate and sweet wrappers.\n\nCertainly! Here's the revised text:\n\n---\n\nWhile awaiting materials for your projects, consider using plastic for an art project to enhance your workspace. Happy sorting.", - "keywords": "plastic recycling, HDPE2 collection, PP05 items, Worksop plastic projects, local recycling methods, plastic art projects, HDPE2 products, PP05 recycling, UK plastic sorting, community plastic gathering", - "resources": "To address the query, here's the structured information extracted from the provided tutorial:\n\n### Tools\n\n- Social media platforms ([Facebook Marketplace](https://www.facebook.com/marketplace))\n- Local notice boards ([Gumtree Worksop](https://www.gumtree.com))\n- Shop window advertisements\n\n### Software\n\n- Community networking ([Nextdoor](https://nextdoor.co.uk))\n- Material-sharing platforms ([Freecycle](https://www.freecycle.org))\n\n### Hardware\n\n- **HDPE2 materials**: Milk cartons, plastic lids, cereal inner bags\n- **PP05 materials**: Contact lens cases, chocolate wrappers, Chinese-style pots\n\nThese categorizations reflect sourcing methods, platforms for outreach, and material types relevant to Worksop, UK.", - "references": "**Articles**\n\n- [Revolutionary Recycling Process Transforms Plastic Waste](https://www.energy.gov/eere/bioenergy/articles/revolutionary-recycling-process-transforms-plastic-waste) [1]\n\n**Books**\n\n- [Understanding Plastics Recycling 2E: Economic, Ecological, and Technical Aspects of Plastic Waste Handling](https://www.barnesandnoble.com/w/understanding-plastics-recycling-2e-natalie-rudolph/1137695178) [2]\n- [Small-scale Recycling of Plastics](https://practicalactionpublishing.com/book/1999/small-scale-recycling-of-plastics) [8]\n\n**Papers**\n\n- [Plastics Recycling: Challenges and Opportunities](https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC2873020/) [7]\n\n**YouTube**\n\n- [What Is The Plastic Recycling Process](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JmXf0JgiLTw) [4]\n\n**Opensource Designs**\n\n- [[filtered] by Dave Hakkens: Open-Source Plastic Recycling Workshop](https://www.designboom.com/technology/precious-plastic-dave-hakkens-recycling-workshop-06-02-2014/) [5]", - "brief": "Discover methods for sourcing HDPE2 and PP05 plastics for your projects. Gather materials locally using social media, notice boards, or shop windows." + "content": "Want to collect more of a certain type of plastic for a specific project?\n\nFind out how we do it here 🙂\n\n\nUser Location: Worksop, United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland (the)\n\nIf you are wanting to do an HDPE2 based project, don't ask the community for HDPE2...\n\n...🤔\n\n...instead find out which products used locally are made from HDPE2 😀\n\nFor us, this would be milk cartons, lids and breakfast cereal inner bags 😁\n\nThen ask for these...on social media, local Post Office notice board or a shop window!\n\nOnce you have completed that project...\n\n...it's time for another type and another project 🙂\n\nPP05...just ask for Contact Lense covers and cases...\n\nOr Chinese type pots...\n\nOr even chocolate & sweet wrappers 😀\n\nWhile you wait for enough materials to come in for your projects...\n\nWhy not try out a different perspective 🤔\n\nUse plastic for an artwork project to brighten up your workspace 😃\n\nHappy sorting 😊💖\n\nRecycle Today to Save Tomorrow 🌍🌞" } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/collecting-plastic-in-arugam-bay-sri-lanka/README.md b/howtos/collecting-plastic-in-arugam-bay-sri-lanka/README.md index 81811b503..f3ab48a6f 100644 --- a/howtos/collecting-plastic-in-arugam-bay-sri-lanka/README.md +++ b/howtos/collecting-plastic-in-arugam-bay-sri-lanka/README.md @@ -1,23 +1,24 @@ --- title: Collecting plastic in Arugam Bay, Sri Lanka slug: collecting-plastic-in-arugam-bay-sri-lanka -description: This guide explains how we addressed waste collection in a growing tourist area. As tourism increases waste production beyond local capacity, it is essential to establish improved collection systems. +description: Here we outline how we created an intervention into a booming tourist destination. As tourism related waste production diminished collection from the local population it is important to intervene and set up better collection mechanisms. tags: ["research","collection","sorting"] category: Guides difficulty: Hard time: 1+ months -keywords: waste management, tourism waste solutions, plastic recycling Sri Lanka, PET bottle collection, Arugam Bay waste initiatives, sustainable tourism practices, USAID waste projects, community recycling programs, eco-friendly tourist destinations, waste reduction strategies +keywords: location: Pottuvil, Sri Lanka --- # Collecting plastic in Arugam Bay, Sri Lanka ![Collecting plastic in Arugam Bay, Sri Lanka](wlab-02.jpg) -This guide explains how we addressed waste collection in a growing tourist area. As tourism increases waste production beyond local capacity, it is essential to establish improved collection systems. +Here we outline how we created an intervention into a booming tourist destination. As tourism related waste production diminished collection from the local population it is important to intervene and set up better collection mechanisms. User Location: Pottuvil, Sri Lanka ## Steps ### Step 1: Arugam Bay -Located in Arugam Bay, a small town of 150 residents on Sri Lanka's east coast, the local economy relies heavily on tourism and seasonal fishing. However, effective waste management is lacking. During the tourist season, municipal waste management capacity is overwhelmed by tourism-related businesses, resulting in increased plastic waste burning by locals. Additionally, businesses incinerate large piles of plastic bottles due to high tourist consumption. +We’re based in Arugam Bay, a small town of only 150 people on the east coast of Sri Lanka. The little town’s economy is mainly based on tourism with seasonal fishing but lacks proper waste management. During tourist season tourism related businesses demand all waste management capacity of the municipality so even more locals than usual resort to burning their plastic waste. Also businesses were burning large piles of plastic bottles as tourists consume such a vast amount of it. + ![PET and palm 1.JPG](./PET_and_palm_1.JPG) @@ -30,7 +31,7 @@ Located in Arugam Bay, a small town of 150 residents on Sri Lanka's east coast, ### Step 2: What is Wasteless Arugam Bay (WLAB) -WLAB, established in 2018 with USAID funding, focuses on resource management, plastic collection, and education programs in schools, transforming plastic waste into products. We employ three full-time staff members. +We started WLAB in 2018 after we secured part of the financing through a USAID grant. We offer resource management, plastic collection, educational programs in schools and transform plastic waste into products. You know, the [filtered] jam! In total we are 3 full time employees. ![PET delivery to Eco Spindles.jpg](./PET_delivery_to_Eco_Spindles.jpg) @@ -43,7 +44,8 @@ WLAB, established in 2018 with USAID funding, focuses on resource management, pl ### Step 3: Our strategy -Our strategy involves collecting clean PET bottles from local sources. We sell these bottles to industry partners, retaining PE caps for our production. Occasionally, we participate in beach cleanup activities. +Our strategy is to mainly collect clean PET bottles from the local population and businesses. The collected PET bottles are sold back to the industry while we keep the PE caps for our own recycling production. Sporadically we also run and assist beach cleanups. + ![PET at site.jpg](./PET_at_site.jpg) @@ -56,7 +58,8 @@ Our strategy involves collecting clean PET bottles from local sources. We sell t ### Step 4: Our space -Our facility in central Arugam Bay comprises two 20 ft (6.1 m) shipping containers with convenient access to the main road, frequented by tourists. This location enhances our visibility for educational purposes. +We work in a big space in the centre of Arugam Bay. The space consists of two 20ft shipping containers and has easy access to the main road where lots of tourists wander around between a mojito and a surf session. This offers great visibility for us to educate everyone about the problem and the alternatives. + ![Tourists experience recycling.jpg](./Tourists_experience_recycling.jpg) @@ -69,7 +72,8 @@ Our facility in central Arugam Bay comprises two 20 ft (6.1 m) shipping containe ### Step 5: Focus on tourists -We focused on collecting plastic from the tourism industry due to their substantial volume of PET bottles, which are in high demand by the recycling industry in Sri Lanka for conversion into polyester yarn. These bottles are relatively easy to handle as they are clean, and the caps are suitable for the machines. This effort also addresses the issue of PET bottles contributing to landfill waste. +We decided to focus on collecting plastic from the tourism related industry as they have such a vast amount of PET bottles which happen to be in high demand by the recycling industry in Sri Lanka to be turned into recycled polyester yarn. Also, the handling is relatively easy as the bottles are clean and the bottle caps are great for the [filtered] machines. Also it solves the problem of PET bottles clogging up waste management that has to go to landfill. + ![recycled Polyester yarn for testing in handloom 2.jpg](./recycled_Polyester_yarn_for_testing_in_handloom_2.jpg) @@ -82,7 +86,7 @@ We focused on collecting plastic from the tourism industry due to their substant ### Step 6: Provide alternatives -Our public water refill system allows free access for everyone. Ultimately, we aim to reduce the number of bottles needing collection. A tourist destination free of plastic bottles is preferable to one with a substantial PET bottle collection. +Our water refill system is public and anyone can refill for free. In the end we don’t really want to collect all these bottles! A tourist destination without any plastic bottles would be much better than a tourist destination that has a good collection for a vast amount of PET bottles ![IMG-20200114-WA0009.jpg](./IMG-20200114-WA0009.jpg) @@ -92,23 +96,22 @@ Our public water refill system allows free access for everyone. Ultimately, we a ### Step 7: Bins -We have placed over 60 bins around town at locations such as hotels, restaurants, resorts, mosques, and shops. Although initially free, we now consider implementing a deposit system. Each bin is attractively painted and includes a prominent sticker indicating the type of plastic collected, along with a message encouraging exploration of alternatives. +We’ve distributed over 60 bins across town to various hotels, restaurants, resorts, mosques and shops. We’ve given them out free of charge but in hindsight we would rather hand them out with a deposit. A nice paint job also helps sending the message. Our bins have a big sticker indicating the plastic we collect and also has a message that encourages people to search for alternatives. + ![Collection barrel wit sticker.png](./Collection_barrel_wit_sticker.png) ### Step 8: Benefits for partners -### Markdown - -As awareness of plastic waste grows, it is important for businesses to demonstrate action. Therefore, convincing business owners to adopt our bins is straightforward. A reliable staff member should communicate with businesses to establish trust in our efforts. +As tourists and hotels become more and more aware of the plastic waste problem, it is becoming increasingly crucial for businesses to look like they are doing something. For this reason it is incredibly easy to convince business owners to have our bins. However, we found it crucial to have credible staff member approaching the businesses, trusting that we are trying to do better things. ![Collection at remote beach.jpg](./Collection_at_remote_beach.jpg) ### Step 9: Transport -To collect and transport resources, we modified a traditional tuk tuk with distinctive illustrations by a local artist for a unique appearance. +To collect and transport our resources we wanted to have a fun and eye catching means of transport. We’ve tuned up a traditional tuk tuk with some amazing illustrations from a local artist. ![Collection vehicle.JPG](./Collection_vehicle.JPG) @@ -121,7 +124,7 @@ To collect and transport resources, we modified a traditional tuk tuk with disti ### Step 10: Daily collection -We regularly use our tuk tuk to gather plastic from various locations. During peak tourist season, collections are made daily due to increased volumes. +Every week we go out with our tuk tuk to collect the plastic from the different sites. During peak season we drive and collect every day as the amount peaks drastically with tourists arriving. ![Unloading PET collection.jpg](./Unloading_PET_collection.jpg) @@ -131,7 +134,8 @@ We regularly use our tuk tuk to gather plastic from various locations. During pe ### Step 11: Volumes -Monthly, we collect about 1 ton (approximately 2,205 pounds), a small portion of the available material. Gathering more from the local community is challenging despite the potential to collect over 4 tons (about 8,818 pounds) of PET monthly. The primary issue is that collection costs are high and PET prices remain low. +We collect about 1 ton a month. Which is a fraction of what is out there waiting to be recycled. Especially tricky is to collect from the local population. We could probably collect more than 4 tons a month of just PET! The problem is that collection is expensive and PET prices are low :( + ![Storage shed filling up.jpg](./Storage_shed_filling_up.jpg) @@ -141,7 +145,7 @@ Monthly, we collect about 1 ton (approximately 2,205 pounds), a small portion of ### Step 12: Sorting -Upon arrival at the workspace, bottles are sorted to separate caps from PET bottles, placing each in designated containers. Staff typically perform this task, occasionally assisted by tourists. +Once the collected bottles come into our workspace we spend a considerable amount of time separating the bottle caps from the PET bottles placing them in the appropriate bags and containers. This job is done by one of our staff, sometimes tourists join in and lend us a hand. ![Green bottle lids.JPG](./Green_bottle_lids.JPG) @@ -154,14 +158,15 @@ Upon arrival at the workspace, bottles are sorted to separate caps from PET bott ### Step 13: Baling -To optimize transport efficiency, we bale our PET bottles, allowing for more effective shipping. Each bale comprises 700 to 800 bottles and weighs approximately 23 kg (50.7 lbs). +In order to maximise transport we bale all our PET bottles so we can transport them more efficiently and maximise our shipping. One bales consist of 700 - 800 bottles and weighs around 23 Kg. ![baled PET.JPG](./baled_PET.JPG) ### Step 14: Products -Collected PE bottle caps are transformed into products such as key rings, surf wax combs, buttons, and buckles. These products are used internally or sold to individuals and wholesalers. +With the PE bottle caps collected we make a variety of products including key rings, surf wax combs, buttons and buckles. These products are used within our company, sold to privates, or to fair trade wholesalers. + ![recycled plastic buckles.jpg](./recycled_plastic_buckles.jpg) @@ -174,7 +179,8 @@ Collected PE bottle caps are transformed into products such as key rings, surf w ### Step 15: The money bit -We offer complimentary bottle collection from hotels and resorts, including the provision of collection bins. The collected PET is then sold to the industry at 55 Sri Lankan Rupees per kilogram (approximately 0.26 euros or 0.30 USD). Our products made from bottle caps generate significant profit. Adding value to materials improves margins, while bulk sales of raw materials require large volumes due to low profit margins. +We collect the bottles for free from the hotels and resorts (I know we should really charge them for the service, even more since we also supply the collection bins for free, lesson learned:)). While the collected PET is sold back to the industry for 55 Sri Lankan Rupees per kg (about 0.26 €). The products we make from the bottle caps are our high margin items for sure. The more value addition we can create the better the margin, bulk selling just the raw material is a very low margin operation and needs a decent scale. + ![IMG-20181115-WA0011.jpg](./IMG-20181115-WA0011.jpg) @@ -184,77 +190,23 @@ We offer complimentary bottle collection from hotels and resorts, including the ### Step 16: Connecting with the industry -Sri Lanka has advanced facilities capable of converting PET into polyester yarn. However, a single company dominates the market, making it difficult to negotiate competitive prices. This situation is similar for glass, with just one buyer controlling pricing. +The good thing in Sri Lanka is that we have state of the art recycling companies that can process PET into recycled polyester yarn. The not so good thing is that the company pretty much has the monopoly on PET so it is tricky to get the best price without competition. (The same counts for glass. Only one buyer is available so they can set the price pretty much.) + ![IMG-20181115-WA0005.jpg](./IMG-20181115-WA0005.jpg) ### Step 17: The 3 most important things to start -### How to Start a Collection Operation +We’ve been running this operation for 2 years. It might feel a little daunting to start at the beginning. However, you don’t need to start a full operation from day one. The most essential things to start are: +- a dedicated team, +- a space, +- and most importantly: a good target area. -Operating efficiently for two years, we recommend the following essentials for initiating a collection operation: +For a collection operation the aim has to be to collect as much as possible with as little driving as possible. Tourist areas are ideal we believe as lots of waste is being generated by lots of people in a limited space. -- A dedicated team -- Adequate space -- A well-chosen target area - -For effective collection, the objective is to gather maximum materials with minimal travel. Tourist areas are ideal due to the high concentration of waste generated by many people in a confined space. - -We hope this guidance assists you in starting your operation. Enjoy the accompanying video illustrating our process. +Hope this helps you getting started! +To end with, enjoy the video showing how we work :) ## Resources -The growing tourist area in Pottuvil, Sri Lanka, faces waste management challenges due to seasonal tourism overwhelming local capacity. The WLAB initiative addresses this through targeted collection systems, partnerships, and educational efforts centered around PET and PE plastic processing. Below are the key tools and resources mentioned: - -### 🧰 Hardware - -- 2x 20 ft shipping containers for workspace (~~[WLAB facility](#)~~) -- Modified tuk tuk with local artwork for waste transportation (~~[custom vehicle](#)~~) -- 60+ collection bins with plastic-type labels (~~[strategic placement](#)~~) -- Baling machine for compacting PET bottles (~~~~[logistics](#)~~~~) -- Machinery for producing PE cap products (key rings, buckles, etc.) (~~[value addition](#)~~) - -### 📊 Software - -- Customized database for tracking collections/sales (~~[operations management](#)~~) *(inferred from revenue models and volume tracking)* - -### 🛠️ Tools & Equipment - -- Sorting containers for separating bottle caps and PET (~~[processing workflow](#)~~) -- Public water refill systems to reduce bottle usage (~~[prevention strategy](#)~~) -- Deposit system (planned) for incentivized returns (~~[behavioral nudge](#)~~) -- Stickers with plastic-type indicators and educational messages (~~[awareness tools](#)~~) -- Industrial scales for weighing baled PET ([logistics](#)) - -*(Note: Specific tool/software links not provided in source material)* -## References -## References - -### Articles - -- [Managing Waste in Tourist Cities | Resource.co](https://resource.co/article/managing-waste-tourist-cities-2023) -- [Solid Waste Management - Sustainable Tourism | UNWTO](https://www.unwto.org/sustainable-development/unwto-international-network-of-sustainable-tourism-observatories/tools-solid-waste-management) - -### Books - -- [Solid Waste Management and Disposal Practices in Rural Tourism | IGI Global](https://www.igi-global.com/book/solid-waste-management-disposal-practices/356401) -- [Hands-On Data Visualization Book | GitHub](https://handsondataviz.org/HandsOnDataViz.pdf) -- ~~[Waste Management Publications | U.S. Government Bookstore](https://bookstore.gpo.gov/catalog/waste-management)~~ - -### Papers - -- [Waste Management in European Tourist Destinations | SCIRP](https://www.scirp.org/journal/paperinformation?paperid=61933) -- [Sigiriya Sustainable Destination Management Plan | SLTDA](https://www.sltda.gov.lk/storage/common_media/DestinationManagementPlan-Sigiriya-final.pdf) -- [GIS Systems for Waste Management | Esri](https://www.esri.com/content/dam/esrisites/en-us/newsroom/arcuser/arcuser-spring-2020.pdf) -- [Solid Waste in Sri Lankan Tourism | Semantic Scholar](https://pdfs.semanticscholar.org/cec0/e7cec1e9d4646a63c1df3f420d94c35f63bf.pdf) -- [Proceedings: STC Summit Papers | STC](https://summit.stc.org/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/2021STCSummit.pdf) -- [Negombo Waste Management Strategy | CCET](https://ccet.jp/sites/default/files/2020-10/Negombo_0917_web.pdf) -- [Research Software Engineering Analyses | University of Oregon](https://www.cs.uoregon.edu/Reports/PHD-202406-Schwartz.pdf) - -### YouTube - -- [The Big Sort: Recycling Plant Tour | YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nUrBBBs7yzQ) - -### Opensource Designs - -- [Smart Waste Bin Prototype | GitHub](https://github.com/ANTLab-polimi/smart-waste-bin) \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/collecting-plastic-in-arugam-bay-sri-lanka/config.json b/howtos/collecting-plastic-in-arugam-bay-sri-lanka/config.json index 0925ff1e6..fc2a02688 100644 --- a/howtos/collecting-plastic-in-arugam-bay-sri-lanka/config.json +++ b/howtos/collecting-plastic-in-arugam-bay-sri-lanka/config.json @@ -52,7 +52,7 @@ "mentions": [], "slug": "collecting-plastic-in-arugam-bay-sri-lanka", "_modified": "2024-01-28T20:39:27.318Z", - "description": "This guide explains how we addressed waste collection in a growing tourist area. As tourism increases waste production beyond local capacity, it is essential to establish improved collection systems.", + "description": "Here we outline how we created an intervention into a booming tourist destination. As tourism related waste production diminished collection from the local population it is important to intervene and set up better collection mechanisms. ", "_created": "2020-05-03T05:35:39.934Z", "time": "1+ months", "_createdBy": "waste-less-arugam-bay", @@ -64,7 +64,7 @@ "steps": [ { "caption": "Burning plastic waste was a common practice before we organized regular collection from remote beach locations.", - "text": "Located in Arugam Bay, a small town of 150 residents on Sri Lanka's east coast, the local economy relies heavily on tourism and seasonal fishing. However, effective waste management is lacking. During the tourist season, municipal waste management capacity is overwhelmed by tourism-related businesses, resulting in increased plastic waste burning by locals. Additionally, businesses incinerate large piles of plastic bottles due to high tourist consumption.", + "text": "We’re based in Arugam Bay, a small town of only 150 people on the east coast of Sri Lanka. The little town’s economy is mainly based on tourism with seasonal fishing but lacks proper waste management. During tourist season tourism related businesses demand all waste management capacity of the municipality so even more locals than usual resort to burning their plastic waste. Also businesses were burning large piles of plastic bottles as tourists consume such a vast amount of it. \n", "_animationKey": "unique1", "images": [ { @@ -147,12 +147,12 @@ "alt": "WhatsApp Image 2020-02-27 at 09.07.49.jpeg" } ], - "text": "WLAB, established in 2018 with USAID funding, focuses on resource management, plastic collection, and education programs in schools, transforming plastic waste into products. We employ three full-time staff members.", + "text": "We started WLAB in 2018 after we secured part of the financing through a USAID grant. We offer resource management, plastic collection, educational programs in schools and transform plastic waste into products. You know, the [filtered] jam! In total we are 3 full time employees.", "title": "What is Wasteless Arugam Bay (WLAB)" }, { "title": "Our strategy", - "text": "Our strategy involves collecting clean PET bottles from local sources. We sell these bottles to industry partners, retaining PE caps for our production. Occasionally, we participate in beach cleanup activities.", + "text": "Our strategy is to mainly collect clean PET bottles from the local population and businesses. The collected PET bottles are sold back to the industry while we keep the PE caps for our own recycling production. Sporadically we also run and assist beach cleanups. \n", "_animationKey": "unique3", "images": [ { @@ -196,7 +196,7 @@ }, { "_animationKey": "uniquebe3b44", - "text": "Our facility in central Arugam Bay comprises two 20 ft (6.1 m) shipping containers with convenient access to the main road, frequented by tourists. This location enhances our visibility for educational purposes.", + "text": "We work in a big space in the centre of Arugam Bay. The space consists of two 20ft shipping containers and has easy access to the main road where lots of tourists wander around between a mojito and a surf session. This offers great visibility for us to educate everyone about the problem and the alternatives. \n", "images": [ { "size": 141159, @@ -240,7 +240,7 @@ { "_animationKey": "uniqueq9ojw", "caption": "Polyester yarn, shredded PE bottle caps and our storage shed. ", - "text": "We focused on collecting plastic from the tourism industry due to their substantial volume of PET bottles, which are in high demand by the recycling industry in Sri Lanka for conversion into polyester yarn. These bottles are relatively easy to handle as they are clean, and the caps are suitable for the machines. This effort also addresses the issue of PET bottles contributing to landfill waste.", + "text": "We decided to focus on collecting plastic from the tourism related industry as they have such a vast amount of PET bottles which happen to be in high demand by the recycling industry in Sri Lanka to be turned into recycled polyester yarn. Also, the handling is relatively easy as the bottles are clean and the bottle caps are great for the [filtered] machines. Also it solves the problem of PET bottles clogging up waste management that has to go to landfill. \n", "title": "Focus on tourists", "images": [ { @@ -310,7 +310,7 @@ ], "title": "Provide alternatives", "_animationKey": "uniqueizhm97", - "text": "Our public water refill system allows free access for everyone. Ultimately, we aim to reduce the number of bottles needing collection. A tourist destination free of plastic bottles is preferable to one with a substantial PET bottle collection.", + "text": "Our water refill system is public and anyone can refill for free. In the end we don’t really want to collect all these bottles! A tourist destination without any plastic bottles would be much better than a tourist destination that has a good collection for a vast amount of PET bottles", "caption": "Our refill location website getwater.lk and the refill spot in our container. " }, { @@ -330,10 +330,10 @@ } ], "_animationKey": "uniquenh991", - "text": "We have placed over 60 bins around town at locations such as hotels, restaurants, resorts, mosques, and shops. Although initially free, we now consider implementing a deposit system. Each bin is attractively painted and includes a prominent sticker indicating the type of plastic collected, along with a message encouraging exploration of alternatives." + "text": "We’ve distributed over 60 bins across town to various hotels, restaurants, resorts, mosques and shops. We’ve given them out free of charge but in hindsight we would rather hand them out with a deposit. A nice paint job also helps sending the message. Our bins have a big sticker indicating the plastic we collect and also has a message that encourages people to search for alternatives. \n" }, { - "text": "### Markdown\n\nAs awareness of plastic waste grows, it is important for businesses to demonstrate action. Therefore, convincing business owners to adopt our bins is straightforward. A reliable staff member should communicate with businesses to establish trust in our efforts.", + "text": "As tourists and hotels become more and more aware of the plastic waste problem, it is becoming increasingly crucial for businesses to look like they are doing something. For this reason it is incredibly easy to convince business owners to have our bins. However, we found it crucial to have credible staff member approaching the businesses, trusting that we are trying to do better things.", "images": [ { "size": 162904, @@ -392,11 +392,11 @@ } ], "_animationKey": "unique382kgc", - "text": "To collect and transport resources, we modified a traditional tuk tuk with distinctive illustrations by a local artist for a unique appearance.", + "text": "To collect and transport our resources we wanted to have a fun and eye catching means of transport. We’ve tuned up a traditional tuk tuk with some amazing illustrations from a local artist.", "title": "Transport" }, { - "text": "We regularly use our tuk tuk to gather plastic from various locations. During peak tourist season, collections are made daily due to increased volumes.", + "text": "Every week we go out with our tuk tuk to collect the plastic from the different sites. During peak season we drive and collect every day as the amount peaks drastically with tourists arriving. ", "images": [ { "size": 305498, @@ -454,7 +454,7 @@ "alt": "PET at site.jpg" } ], - "text": "Monthly, we collect about 1 ton (approximately 2,205 pounds), a small portion of the available material. Gathering more from the local community is challenging despite the potential to collect over 4 tons (about 8,818 pounds) of PET monthly. The primary issue is that collection costs are high and PET prices remain low.", + "text": "We collect about 1 ton a month. Which is a fraction of what is out there waiting to be recycled. Especially tricky is to collect from the local population. We could probably collect more than 4 tons a month of just PET! The problem is that collection is expensive and PET prices are low :(\n", "title": "Volumes" }, { @@ -498,10 +498,10 @@ ], "title": "Sorting", "_animationKey": "uniquefa4gn2", - "text": "Upon arrival at the workspace, bottles are sorted to separate caps from PET bottles, placing each in designated containers. Staff typically perform this task, occasionally assisted by tourists." + "text": "Once the collected bottles come into our workspace we spend a considerable amount of time separating the bottle caps from the PET bottles placing them in the appropriate bags and containers. This job is done by one of our staff, sometimes tourists join in and lend us a hand." }, { - "text": "To optimize transport efficiency, we bale our PET bottles, allowing for more effective shipping. Each bale comprises 700 to 800 bottles and weighs approximately 23 kg (50.7 lbs).", + "text": "In order to maximise transport we bale all our PET bottles so we can transport them more efficiently and maximise our shipping. One bales consist of 700 - 800 bottles and weighs around 23 Kg. ", "_animationKey": "uniquebhgomb", "title": "Baling", "images": [ @@ -560,10 +560,10 @@ } ], "title": "Products", - "text": "Collected PE bottle caps are transformed into products such as key rings, surf wax combs, buttons, and buckles. These products are used internally or sold to individuals and wholesalers." + "text": "With the PE bottle caps collected we make a variety of products including key rings, surf wax combs, buttons and buckles. These products are used within our company, sold to privates, or to fair trade wholesalers.\n" }, { - "text": "We offer complimentary bottle collection from hotels and resorts, including the provision of collection bins. The collected PET is then sold to the industry at 55 Sri Lankan Rupees per kilogram (approximately 0.26 euros or 0.30 USD). Our products made from bottle caps generate significant profit. Adding value to materials improves margins, while bulk sales of raw materials require large volumes due to low profit margins.", + "text": "We collect the bottles for free from the hotels and resorts (I know we should really charge them for the service, even more since we also supply the collection bins for free, lesson learned:)). While the collected PET is sold back to the industry for 55 Sri Lankan Rupees per kg (about 0.26 €). The products we make from the bottle caps are our high margin items for sure. The more value addition we can create the better the margin, bulk selling just the raw material is a very low margin operation and needs a decent scale. \n", "_animationKey": "uniquej3ag4j", "caption": "Our team visiting and industrial scale recycling factory. ", "images": [ @@ -598,7 +598,7 @@ "caption": "Industrial recycling machinery at our buyer. ", "title": "Connecting with the industry", "_animationKey": "uniquesmbtj", - "text": "Sri Lanka has advanced facilities capable of converting PET into polyester yarn. However, a single company dominates the market, making it difficult to negotiate competitive prices. This situation is similar for glass, with just one buyer controlling pricing.", + "text": "The good thing in Sri Lanka is that we have state of the art recycling companies that can process PET into recycled polyester yarn. The not so good thing is that the company pretty much has the monopoly on PET so it is tricky to get the best price without competition. (The same counts for glass. Only one buyer is available so they can set the price pretty much.)\n", "images": [ { "fullPath": "uploads/v3_howtos/1uJeUKCx4jcB9xEQkZJE/IMG-20181115-WA0005.jpg", @@ -619,7 +619,7 @@ "videoUrl": "https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c7K2xb9GDJQ&feature=emb_logo", "images": [], "_animationKey": "unique4i9mf4", - "text": "### How to Start a Collection Operation\n\nOperating efficiently for two years, we recommend the following essentials for initiating a collection operation: \n\n- A dedicated team\n- Adequate space\n- A well-chosen target area\n\nFor effective collection, the objective is to gather maximum materials with minimal travel. Tourist areas are ideal due to the high concentration of waste generated by many people in a confined space.\n\nWe hope this guidance assists you in starting your operation. Enjoy the accompanying video illustrating our process." + "text": "We’ve been running this operation for 2 years. It might feel a little daunting to start at the beginning. However, you don’t need to start a full operation from day one. The most essential things to start are: \n- a dedicated team,\n- a space,\n- and most importantly: a good target area.\n\nFor a collection operation the aim has to be to collect as much as possible with as little driving as possible. Tourist areas are ideal we believe as lots of waste is being generated by lots of people in a limited space. \n\nHope this helps you getting started!\nTo end with, enjoy the video showing how we work :)" } ], "total_downloads": 0, @@ -767,9 +767,5 @@ "urls": [] } }, - "content": "This guide explains how we addressed waste collection in a growing tourist area. As tourism increases waste production beyond local capacity, it is essential to establish improved collection systems.\n\n\nUser Location: Pottuvil, Sri Lanka\n\nLocated in Arugam Bay, a small town of 150 residents on Sri Lanka's east coast, the local economy relies heavily on tourism and seasonal fishing. However, effective waste management is lacking. During the tourist season, municipal waste management capacity is overwhelmed by tourism-related businesses, resulting in increased plastic waste burning by locals. Additionally, businesses incinerate large piles of plastic bottles due to high tourist consumption.\n\nWLAB, established in 2018 with USAID funding, focuses on resource management, plastic collection, and education programs in schools, transforming plastic waste into products. We employ three full-time staff members.\n\nOur strategy involves collecting clean PET bottles from local sources. We sell these bottles to industry partners, retaining PE caps for our production. Occasionally, we participate in beach cleanup activities.\n\nOur facility in central Arugam Bay comprises two 20 ft (6.1 m) shipping containers with convenient access to the main road, frequented by tourists. This location enhances our visibility for educational purposes.\n\nWe focused on collecting plastic from the tourism industry due to their substantial volume of PET bottles, which are in high demand by the recycling industry in Sri Lanka for conversion into polyester yarn. These bottles are relatively easy to handle as they are clean, and the caps are suitable for the machines. This effort also addresses the issue of PET bottles contributing to landfill waste.\n\nOur public water refill system allows free access for everyone. Ultimately, we aim to reduce the number of bottles needing collection. A tourist destination free of plastic bottles is preferable to one with a substantial PET bottle collection.\n\nWe have placed over 60 bins around town at locations such as hotels, restaurants, resorts, mosques, and shops. Although initially free, we now consider implementing a deposit system. Each bin is attractively painted and includes a prominent sticker indicating the type of plastic collected, along with a message encouraging exploration of alternatives.\n\n### Markdown\n\nAs awareness of plastic waste grows, it is important for businesses to demonstrate action. Therefore, convincing business owners to adopt our bins is straightforward. A reliable staff member should communicate with businesses to establish trust in our efforts.\n\nTo collect and transport resources, we modified a traditional tuk tuk with distinctive illustrations by a local artist for a unique appearance.\n\nWe regularly use our tuk tuk to gather plastic from various locations. During peak tourist season, collections are made daily due to increased volumes.\n\nMonthly, we collect about 1 ton (approximately 2,205 pounds), a small portion of the available material. Gathering more from the local community is challenging despite the potential to collect over 4 tons (about 8,818 pounds) of PET monthly. The primary issue is that collection costs are high and PET prices remain low.\n\nUpon arrival at the workspace, bottles are sorted to separate caps from PET bottles, placing each in designated containers. Staff typically perform this task, occasionally assisted by tourists.\n\nTo optimize transport efficiency, we bale our PET bottles, allowing for more effective shipping. Each bale comprises 700 to 800 bottles and weighs approximately 23 kg (50.7 lbs).\n\nCollected PE bottle caps are transformed into products such as key rings, surf wax combs, buttons, and buckles. These products are used internally or sold to individuals and wholesalers.\n\nWe offer complimentary bottle collection from hotels and resorts, including the provision of collection bins. The collected PET is then sold to the industry at 55 Sri Lankan Rupees per kilogram (approximately 0.26 euros or 0.30 USD). Our products made from bottle caps generate significant profit. Adding value to materials improves margins, while bulk sales of raw materials require large volumes due to low profit margins.\n\nSri Lanka has advanced facilities capable of converting PET into polyester yarn. However, a single company dominates the market, making it difficult to negotiate competitive prices. This situation is similar for glass, with just one buyer controlling pricing.\n\n### How to Start a Collection Operation\n\nOperating efficiently for two years, we recommend the following essentials for initiating a collection operation: \n\n- A dedicated team\n- Adequate space\n- A well-chosen target area\n\nFor effective collection, the objective is to gather maximum materials with minimal travel. Tourist areas are ideal due to the high concentration of waste generated by many people in a confined space.\n\nWe hope this guidance assists you in starting your operation. Enjoy the accompanying video illustrating our process.", - "keywords": "waste management, tourism waste solutions, plastic recycling Sri Lanka, PET bottle collection, Arugam Bay waste initiatives, sustainable tourism practices, USAID waste projects, community recycling programs, eco-friendly tourist destinations, waste reduction strategies", - "resources": "The growing tourist area in Pottuvil, Sri Lanka, faces waste management challenges due to seasonal tourism overwhelming local capacity. The WLAB initiative addresses this through targeted collection systems, partnerships, and educational efforts centered around PET and PE plastic processing. Below are the key tools and resources mentioned:\n\n### 🧰 Hardware\n\n- 2x 20 ft shipping containers for workspace (~~[WLAB facility](#)~~)\n- Modified tuk tuk with local artwork for waste transportation (~~[custom vehicle](#)~~)\n- 60+ collection bins with plastic-type labels (~~[strategic placement](#)~~)\n- Baling machine for compacting PET bottles (~~~~[logistics](#)~~~~)\n- Machinery for producing PE cap products (key rings, buckles, etc.) (~~[value addition](#)~~)\n\n### 📊 Software\n\n- Customized database for tracking collections/sales (~~[operations management](#)~~) *(inferred from revenue models and volume tracking)*\n\n### 🛠️ Tools & Equipment\n\n- Sorting containers for separating bottle caps and PET (~~[processing workflow](#)~~)\n- Public water refill systems to reduce bottle usage (~~[prevention strategy](#)~~)\n- Deposit system (planned) for incentivized returns (~~[behavioral nudge](#)~~)\n- Stickers with plastic-type indicators and educational messages (~~[awareness tools](#)~~)\n- Industrial scales for weighing baled PET ([logistics](#))\n\n*(Note: Specific tool/software links not provided in source material)*", - "references": "## References\n\n### Articles\n\n- [Managing Waste in Tourist Cities | Resource.co](https://resource.co/article/managing-waste-tourist-cities-2023)\n- [Solid Waste Management - Sustainable Tourism | UNWTO](https://www.unwto.org/sustainable-development/unwto-international-network-of-sustainable-tourism-observatories/tools-solid-waste-management)\n\n### Books\n\n- [Solid Waste Management and Disposal Practices in Rural Tourism | IGI Global](https://www.igi-global.com/book/solid-waste-management-disposal-practices/356401)\n- [Hands-On Data Visualization Book | GitHub](https://handsondataviz.org/HandsOnDataViz.pdf)\n- ~~[Waste Management Publications | U.S. Government Bookstore](https://bookstore.gpo.gov/catalog/waste-management)~~\n\n### Papers\n\n- [Waste Management in European Tourist Destinations | SCIRP](https://www.scirp.org/journal/paperinformation?paperid=61933)\n- [Sigiriya Sustainable Destination Management Plan | SLTDA](https://www.sltda.gov.lk/storage/common_media/DestinationManagementPlan-Sigiriya-final.pdf)\n- [GIS Systems for Waste Management | Esri](https://www.esri.com/content/dam/esrisites/en-us/newsroom/arcuser/arcuser-spring-2020.pdf)\n- [Solid Waste in Sri Lankan Tourism | Semantic Scholar](https://pdfs.semanticscholar.org/cec0/e7cec1e9d4646a63c1df3f420d94c35f63bf.pdf)\n- [Proceedings: STC Summit Papers | STC](https://summit.stc.org/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/2021STCSummit.pdf)\n- [Negombo Waste Management Strategy | CCET](https://ccet.jp/sites/default/files/2020-10/Negombo_0917_web.pdf)\n- [Research Software Engineering Analyses | University of Oregon](https://www.cs.uoregon.edu/Reports/PHD-202406-Schwartz.pdf)\n\n### YouTube\n\n- [The Big Sort: Recycling Plant Tour | YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nUrBBBs7yzQ)\n\n### Opensource Designs\n\n- [Smart Waste Bin Prototype | GitHub](https://github.com/ANTLab-polimi/smart-waste-bin)", - "brief": "Implementing waste management solutions in Arugam Bay, Sri Lanka, WLAB transforms plastic waste into products to tackle plastic pollution in this tourist area." + "content": "Here we outline how we created an intervention into a booming tourist destination. As tourism related waste production diminished collection from the local population it is important to intervene and set up better collection mechanisms. \n\n\nUser Location: Pottuvil, Sri Lanka\n\nWe’re based in Arugam Bay, a small town of only 150 people on the east coast of Sri Lanka. The little town’s economy is mainly based on tourism with seasonal fishing but lacks proper waste management. During tourist season tourism related businesses demand all waste management capacity of the municipality so even more locals than usual resort to burning their plastic waste. Also businesses were burning large piles of plastic bottles as tourists consume such a vast amount of it. \n\n\nWe started WLAB in 2018 after we secured part of the financing through a USAID grant. We offer resource management, plastic collection, educational programs in schools and transform plastic waste into products. You know, the [filtered] jam! In total we are 3 full time employees.\n\nOur strategy is to mainly collect clean PET bottles from the local population and businesses. The collected PET bottles are sold back to the industry while we keep the PE caps for our own recycling production. Sporadically we also run and assist beach cleanups. \n\n\nWe work in a big space in the centre of Arugam Bay. The space consists of two 20ft shipping containers and has easy access to the main road where lots of tourists wander around between a mojito and a surf session. This offers great visibility for us to educate everyone about the problem and the alternatives. \n\n\nWe decided to focus on collecting plastic from the tourism related industry as they have such a vast amount of PET bottles which happen to be in high demand by the recycling industry in Sri Lanka to be turned into recycled polyester yarn. Also, the handling is relatively easy as the bottles are clean and the bottle caps are great for the [filtered] machines. Also it solves the problem of PET bottles clogging up waste management that has to go to landfill. \n\n\nOur water refill system is public and anyone can refill for free. In the end we don’t really want to collect all these bottles! A tourist destination without any plastic bottles would be much better than a tourist destination that has a good collection for a vast amount of PET bottles\n\nWe’ve distributed over 60 bins across town to various hotels, restaurants, resorts, mosques and shops. We’ve given them out free of charge but in hindsight we would rather hand them out with a deposit. A nice paint job also helps sending the message. Our bins have a big sticker indicating the plastic we collect and also has a message that encourages people to search for alternatives. \n\n\nAs tourists and hotels become more and more aware of the plastic waste problem, it is becoming increasingly crucial for businesses to look like they are doing something. For this reason it is incredibly easy to convince business owners to have our bins. However, we found it crucial to have credible staff member approaching the businesses, trusting that we are trying to do better things.\n\nTo collect and transport our resources we wanted to have a fun and eye catching means of transport. We’ve tuned up a traditional tuk tuk with some amazing illustrations from a local artist.\n\nEvery week we go out with our tuk tuk to collect the plastic from the different sites. During peak season we drive and collect every day as the amount peaks drastically with tourists arriving. \n\nWe collect about 1 ton a month. Which is a fraction of what is out there waiting to be recycled. Especially tricky is to collect from the local population. We could probably collect more than 4 tons a month of just PET! The problem is that collection is expensive and PET prices are low :(\n\n\nOnce the collected bottles come into our workspace we spend a considerable amount of time separating the bottle caps from the PET bottles placing them in the appropriate bags and containers. This job is done by one of our staff, sometimes tourists join in and lend us a hand.\n\nIn order to maximise transport we bale all our PET bottles so we can transport them more efficiently and maximise our shipping. One bales consist of 700 - 800 bottles and weighs around 23 Kg. \n\nWith the PE bottle caps collected we make a variety of products including key rings, surf wax combs, buttons and buckles. These products are used within our company, sold to privates, or to fair trade wholesalers.\n\n\nWe collect the bottles for free from the hotels and resorts (I know we should really charge them for the service, even more since we also supply the collection bins for free, lesson learned:)). While the collected PET is sold back to the industry for 55 Sri Lankan Rupees per kg (about 0.26 €). The products we make from the bottle caps are our high margin items for sure. The more value addition we can create the better the margin, bulk selling just the raw material is a very low margin operation and needs a decent scale. \n\n\nThe good thing in Sri Lanka is that we have state of the art recycling companies that can process PET into recycled polyester yarn. The not so good thing is that the company pretty much has the monopoly on PET so it is tricky to get the best price without competition. (The same counts for glass. Only one buyer is available so they can set the price pretty much.)\n\n\nWe’ve been running this operation for 2 years. It might feel a little daunting to start at the beginning. However, you don’t need to start a full operation from day one. The most essential things to start are: \n- a dedicated team,\n- a space,\n- and most importantly: a good target area.\n\nFor a collection operation the aim has to be to collect as much as possible with as little driving as possible. Tourist areas are ideal we believe as lots of waste is being generated by lots of people in a limited space. \n\nHope this helps you getting started!\nTo end with, enjoy the video showing how we work :)" } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/construction-of-green-walls-with-recycled-plastic/README.md b/howtos/construction-of-green-walls-with-recycled-plastic/README.md index 3554b81c6..57be82b8d 100644 --- a/howtos/construction-of-green-walls-with-recycled-plastic/README.md +++ b/howtos/construction-of-green-walls-with-recycled-plastic/README.md @@ -1,33 +1,27 @@ --- title: Construction of green walls with recycled plastic slug: construction-of-green-walls-with-recycled-plastic -description: ## Sustainable Materials in Consumer Markets - -Recent trends in material selection have introduced numerous alternatives aimed at minimizing environmental impact in manufacturing and durability. Recycled plastic plates are a notable example, offering a viable substitute for overexploited raw materials and providing advantages against climate and pollution effects, especially in outdoor living walls. - -In the local market, various products support the construction of living walls. However, many still rely on traditional materials, which often present challenges in operation, longevity, and adaptability without adding value to the consumer market. +description: The trend towards the use of sustainable materials in various sectors of the consumer market has produced a large number of alternatives that can be used to contribute to the reduction of the environmental impact generated by their manufacture, use and durability. Such is the case of recycled plastic plates, which can replace those materials made with overexploited raw materials, offering advantages in the face of various factors such as climate and pollution, which generally affect the functioning capacity of living walls. commonly placed in outdoor spaces. +In the local market it is possible to identify various products and materials that allow the construction of living walls, however, in a significant number of them the use of traditional materials was detected, which brings with it difficulties in their operation, duration and adaptability, without have the sustainable criterion that will allow increasing the delivery of value to the local consumer market. tags: ["HDPE","LDPE"] category: Products difficulty: Hard time: < 1 day -keywords: sustainable materials, consumer markets, recycled plastic plates, environmental impact, living walls, manufacturing alternatives, Oshawa Canada, CNC cutting machine, installation of gutters, outdoor living walls +keywords: location: Oshawa, Canada --- # Construction of green walls with recycled plastic ![Construction of green walls with recycled plastic](WhatsApp_Image_2023-10-29_at_17.15.01-18b7d4ac48a.jpeg) -## Sustainable Materials in Consumer Markets - -Recent trends in material selection have introduced numerous alternatives aimed at minimizing environmental impact in manufacturing and durability. Recycled plastic plates are a notable example, offering a viable substitute for overexploited raw materials and providing advantages against climate and pollution effects, especially in outdoor living walls. - -In the local market, various products support the construction of living walls. However, many still rely on traditional materials, which often present challenges in operation, longevity, and adaptability without adding value to the consumer market. +The trend towards the use of sustainable materials in various sectors of the consumer market has produced a large number of alternatives that can be used to contribute to the reduction of the environmental impact generated by their manufacture, use and durability. Such is the case of recycled plastic plates, which can replace those materials made with overexploited raw materials, offering advantages in the face of various factors such as climate and pollution, which generally affect the functioning capacity of living walls. commonly placed in outdoor spaces. +In the local market it is possible to identify various products and materials that allow the construction of living walls, however, in a significant number of them the use of traditional materials was detected, which brings with it difficulties in their operation, duration and adaptability, without have the sustainable criterion that will allow increasing the delivery of value to the local consumer market. User Location: Oshawa, Canada ## Steps ### Step 1: First you need to have the recycled plastic plate -Based on the provided drawings, use a CNC cutting machine to cut the pieces. The images below show the development of the gutter and frame. +According to the drawn pieces you need to cut them in a CNC cutting machine, the following images are the development of the gutter and the frame. -Note: Ensure that reductions and cuts are incorporated in the drawings for accurate assembly. +Note. Reduces and cuts are needed to be considered in the drawings to be cut to later assemble the pieces. ![Captura de pantalla 2023-10-29 a la(s) 5.02.17 p. m.-18b7d3f0242.png](./Captura_de_pantalla_2023-10-29_a_las_5.02.17_p._m.-18b7d3f0242.png) @@ -37,7 +31,7 @@ Note: Ensure that reductions and cuts are incorporated in the drawings for accur ### Step 2: Join the pieces -To maintain the shape of the gutters, bend them and secure with a screw. Use four gutters per frame. +You have to bend the gutters and put a screw in them to maintain the shape of the gutter. You need to have 4 gutters per frame. ![Captura de pantalla 2023-10-29 a la(s) 5.03.56 p. m.-18b7d406487.png](./Captura_de_pantalla_2023-10-29_a_las_5.03.56_p._m.-18b7d406487.png) @@ -47,22 +41,22 @@ To maintain the shape of the gutters, bend them and secure with a screw. Use fou ### Step 3: Install the wall -### Installation of Gutters and Frames +Once the gutters and frames you want are assembled, it is time to install them on the wall. -1. Install anchors in the wall for support. -2. Attach the frame to the wall. -3. Tighten the screws with a screwdriver to secure it. +1.-You need to place some anchors in the wall to support the green wall +2.-The frame begins to be attached to the wall +3.-Adjus the screw with a screwdriver so that it is fixed ![Captura de pantalla 2023-10-29 a la(s) 5.05.08 p. m.-18b7d416a73.png](./Captura_de_pantalla_2023-10-29_a_las_5.05.08_p._m.-18b7d416a73.png) ### Step 4: Modules installed -Install the desired number of modules. +The number of modules that are desired are installed. -1. Install the modules. -2. Start placing plants in the gutters. -3. Complete the installation of the wall. +1.-Installed modules +2.-The plants begin to be put in the gutters +3.-Finally you finish the installation of your green wall ![Captura de pantalla 2023-10-29 a la(s) 5.08.32 p. m.-18b7d44d5d3.png](./Captura_de_pantalla_2023-10-29_a_las_5.08.32_p._m.-18b7d44d5d3.png) @@ -74,57 +68,4 @@ Install the desired number of modules. ![Captura de pantalla 2023-10-29 a la(s) 5.08.51 p. m.-18b7d44f520.png](./Captura_de_pantalla_2023-10-29_a_las_5.08.51_p._m.-18b7d44f520.png) ## Resources -### Tools - -- ~~[CNC Cutting Machine](#)~~ -- ~~[Screwdriver](#)~~ - -### Software - -- ~~[CAD Software](#)~~ (for design plans) - -### Hardware - -- ~~[Steel Screws](#)~~ -- ~~[Wall Anchors](#)~~ -- ~~[Gutters](#)~~ (4 per frame) -- ~~[Frames](#)~~ - -### Materials - -- Recycled plastic plates -- Plants (for gutters) - -Notes: Links are illustrative examples only; specific product choices depend on local availability in Oshawa, Canada. Always follow manufacturer guidelines for CNC operations[1][2]. -## References -## References - -### Articles - -- [The Rise of Sustainable Shopping: Trends Reshaping Consumer Goods and Retail](https://resoinsights.com/insight/the-rise-of-sustainable-shopping-trends-reshaping-consumer-goods-and-retail/) [1] -- [Increased Consumer Preference For Sustainable Materials Boosting Market Growth](https://www.canadianmanufacturing.com/manufacturing/increased-consumer-preference-for-sustainable-materials-boosting-market-growth-says-report-289134/) [3] -- [Sustainable Materials Market Trends, Size and Share](https://www.coherentmarketinsights.com/industry-reports/sustainable-materials-market) [4] -- [Sustainability in CNC Machining](https://wisconsinmetaltech.com/sustainability-in-cnc-machining/) [6] - -### Papers - -- [COLING 2025 System Demonstrations Proceedings](https://aclanthology.org/2025.coling-demos.pdf) [2] -- [How Sustainability is Fundamentally Changing Consumer Preferences](https://www.capgemini.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/02/20-06_9880_Sustainability-in-CPR_Final_Web-1-2.pdf) [5] -- ~~[On the Importance of Audio Material in Spoken Linguistics](https://portal.research.lu.se/files/112552919/ICAME41_20Extended_20Book_20of_20Abstracts.pdf)~~ [9] -- [Designing Sustainable Prefabricated Wood Buildings](https://www.thinkwood.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Designing-Sustainable-Prefabricated-Wood-Buildings_Think-Wood-CEU.pdf) [15] - -### Books - -- [Microservices: Up and Running](https://www.f5.com/content/dam/f5/corp/global/pdf/ebooks/Microservices-Up-and-Running_complete.pdf) [10] -- [From Print to Ebooks: A Hybrid Publishing Toolkit for the Arts](https://networkcultures.org/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/0419-HVA_DPT_from_print_to_ebooks_OS_RGB_aanp_lr_totaal.pdf) [13] - -### YouTube - -- [Exploring Sustainable CNC Model Making Materials for Landscape Architecture Education](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hckOlcMWq_w) [7] -- [DIY CNC 016 - Release (Open source)](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wsegKvVM9p0) [12] - -### Open Source Designs - -- [Building with Wikihouse](https://cnccraft.co.uk/building-with-wikihouse/) [14] -- [IndyMill - DIY Open Source Metal CNC Machine](https://indystry.cc/indymill/) [16] -- [GitHub Gist: every sentence I've published](https://gist.github.com/0xadada/f29a1a52ac28421fb4abd2d792ed1b69) [8] \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/construction-of-green-walls-with-recycled-plastic/config.json b/howtos/construction-of-green-walls-with-recycled-plastic/config.json index 37fb24e71..12cd82408 100644 --- a/howtos/construction-of-green-walls-with-recycled-plastic/config.json +++ b/howtos/construction-of-green-walls-with-recycled-plastic/config.json @@ -53,7 +53,7 @@ "alt": "Captura de pantalla 2023-10-29 a la(s) 5.02.31 p. m.-18b7d3f11ea.png" } ], - "text": "Based on the provided drawings, use a CNC cutting machine to cut the pieces. The images below show the development of the gutter and frame.\n\nNote: Ensure that reductions and cuts are incorporated in the drawings for accurate assembly.", + "text": "According to the drawn pieces you need to cut them in a CNC cutting machine, the following images are the development of the gutter and the frame.\n\nNote. Reduces and cuts are needed to be considered in the drawings to be cut to later assemble the pieces.", "_animationKey": "unique1" }, { @@ -85,12 +85,12 @@ "alt": "Captura de pantalla 2023-10-29 a la(s) 5.04.05 p. m.-18b7d40760d.png" } ], - "text": "To maintain the shape of the gutters, bend them and secure with a screw. Use four gutters per frame." + "text": "You have to bend the gutters and put a screw in them to maintain the shape of the gutter. You need to have 4 gutters per frame." }, { "_animationKey": "unique3", "title": "Install the wall", - "text": "### Installation of Gutters and Frames\n\n1. Install anchors in the wall for support.\n2. Attach the frame to the wall.\n3. Tighten the screws with a screwdriver to secure it.", + "text": "Once the gutters and frames you want are assembled, it is time to install them on the wall.\n\n1.-You need to place some anchors in the wall to support the green wall\n2.-The frame begins to be attached to the wall\n3.-Adjus the screw with a screwdriver so that it is fixed", "images": [ { "type": "image/png", @@ -108,7 +108,7 @@ }, { "_animationKey": "uniquedvdqab", - "text": "Install the desired number of modules.\n\n1. Install the modules.\n2. Start placing plants in the gutters.\n3. Complete the installation of the wall.", + "text": "The number of modules that are desired are installed.\n\n1.-Installed modules\n2.-The plants begin to be put in the gutters\n3.-Finally you finish the installation of your green wall", "images": [ { "name": "Captura de pantalla 2023-10-29 a la(s) 5.08.32 p. m.-18b7d44d5d3.png", @@ -150,7 +150,7 @@ "title": "Modules installed" } ], - "description": "## Sustainable Materials in Consumer Markets\n\nRecent trends in material selection have introduced numerous alternatives aimed at minimizing environmental impact in manufacturing and durability. Recycled plastic plates are a notable example, offering a viable substitute for overexploited raw materials and providing advantages against climate and pollution effects, especially in outdoor living walls.\n\nIn the local market, various products support the construction of living walls. However, many still rely on traditional materials, which often present challenges in operation, longevity, and adaptability without adding value to the consumer market.", + "description": "The trend towards the use of sustainable materials in various sectors of the consumer market has produced a large number of alternatives that can be used to contribute to the reduction of the environmental impact generated by their manufacture, use and durability. Such is the case of recycled plastic plates, which can replace those materials made with overexploited raw materials, offering advantages in the face of various factors such as climate and pollution, which generally affect the functioning capacity of living walls. commonly placed in outdoor spaces.\nIn the local market it is possible to identify various products and materials that allow the construction of living walls, however, in a significant number of them the use of traditional materials was detected, which brings with it difficulties in their operation, duration and adaptability, without have the sustainable criterion that will allow increasing the delivery of value to the local consumer market.", "votedUsefulBy": [ "marcelaazoubel", "mattia" @@ -312,9 +312,5 @@ "urls": [] } }, - "content": "## Sustainable Materials in Consumer Markets\n\nRecent trends in material selection have introduced numerous alternatives aimed at minimizing environmental impact in manufacturing and durability. Recycled plastic plates are a notable example, offering a viable substitute for overexploited raw materials and providing advantages against climate and pollution effects, especially in outdoor living walls.\n\nIn the local market, various products support the construction of living walls. However, many still rely on traditional materials, which often present challenges in operation, longevity, and adaptability without adding value to the consumer market.\n\n\nUser Location: Oshawa, Canada\n\nBased on the provided drawings, use a CNC cutting machine to cut the pieces. The images below show the development of the gutter and frame.\n\nNote: Ensure that reductions and cuts are incorporated in the drawings for accurate assembly.\n\nTo maintain the shape of the gutters, bend them and secure with a screw. Use four gutters per frame.\n\n### Installation of Gutters and Frames\n\n1. Install anchors in the wall for support.\n2. Attach the frame to the wall.\n3. Tighten the screws with a screwdriver to secure it.\n\nInstall the desired number of modules.\n\n1. Install the modules.\n2. Start placing plants in the gutters.\n3. Complete the installation of the wall.", - "keywords": "sustainable materials, consumer markets, recycled plastic plates, environmental impact, living walls, manufacturing alternatives, Oshawa Canada, CNC cutting machine, installation of gutters, outdoor living walls", - "resources": "### Tools\n\n- ~~[CNC Cutting Machine](#)~~\n- ~~[Screwdriver](#)~~\n\n### Software\n\n- ~~[CAD Software](#)~~ (for design plans)\n\n### Hardware\n\n- ~~[Steel Screws](#)~~\n- ~~[Wall Anchors](#)~~\n- ~~[Gutters](#)~~ (4 per frame)\n- ~~[Frames](#)~~\n\n### Materials\n\n- Recycled plastic plates\n- Plants (for gutters)\n\nNotes: Links are illustrative examples only; specific product choices depend on local availability in Oshawa, Canada. Always follow manufacturer guidelines for CNC operations[1][2].", - "references": "## References\n\n### Articles\n\n- [The Rise of Sustainable Shopping: Trends Reshaping Consumer Goods and Retail](https://resoinsights.com/insight/the-rise-of-sustainable-shopping-trends-reshaping-consumer-goods-and-retail/) [1]\n- [Increased Consumer Preference For Sustainable Materials Boosting Market Growth](https://www.canadianmanufacturing.com/manufacturing/increased-consumer-preference-for-sustainable-materials-boosting-market-growth-says-report-289134/) [3]\n- [Sustainable Materials Market Trends, Size and Share](https://www.coherentmarketinsights.com/industry-reports/sustainable-materials-market) [4]\n- [Sustainability in CNC Machining](https://wisconsinmetaltech.com/sustainability-in-cnc-machining/) [6]\n\n### Papers\n\n- [COLING 2025 System Demonstrations Proceedings](https://aclanthology.org/2025.coling-demos.pdf) [2]\n- [How Sustainability is Fundamentally Changing Consumer Preferences](https://www.capgemini.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/02/20-06_9880_Sustainability-in-CPR_Final_Web-1-2.pdf) [5]\n- ~~[On the Importance of Audio Material in Spoken Linguistics](https://portal.research.lu.se/files/112552919/ICAME41_20Extended_20Book_20of_20Abstracts.pdf)~~ [9]\n- [Designing Sustainable Prefabricated Wood Buildings](https://www.thinkwood.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Designing-Sustainable-Prefabricated-Wood-Buildings_Think-Wood-CEU.pdf) [15]\n\n### Books\n\n- [Microservices: Up and Running](https://www.f5.com/content/dam/f5/corp/global/pdf/ebooks/Microservices-Up-and-Running_complete.pdf) [10]\n- [From Print to Ebooks: A Hybrid Publishing Toolkit for the Arts](https://networkcultures.org/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/0419-HVA_DPT_from_print_to_ebooks_OS_RGB_aanp_lr_totaal.pdf) [13]\n\n### YouTube\n\n- [Exploring Sustainable CNC Model Making Materials for Landscape Architecture Education](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hckOlcMWq_w) [7]\n- [DIY CNC 016 - Release (Open source)](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wsegKvVM9p0) [12]\n\n### Open Source Designs\n\n- [Building with Wikihouse](https://cnccraft.co.uk/building-with-wikihouse/) [14]\n- [IndyMill - DIY Open Source Metal CNC Machine](https://indystry.cc/indymill/) [16]\n- [GitHub Gist: every sentence I've published](https://gist.github.com/0xadada/f29a1a52ac28421fb4abd2d792ed1b69) [8]", - "brief": "Explore sustainable materials in manufacturing with recycled plastic plates, reducing environmental impact in living walls, and promoting eco-friendly structures." + "content": "The trend towards the use of sustainable materials in various sectors of the consumer market has produced a large number of alternatives that can be used to contribute to the reduction of the environmental impact generated by their manufacture, use and durability. Such is the case of recycled plastic plates, which can replace those materials made with overexploited raw materials, offering advantages in the face of various factors such as climate and pollution, which generally affect the functioning capacity of living walls. commonly placed in outdoor spaces.\nIn the local market it is possible to identify various products and materials that allow the construction of living walls, however, in a significant number of them the use of traditional materials was detected, which brings with it difficulties in their operation, duration and adaptability, without have the sustainable criterion that will allow increasing the delivery of value to the local consumer market.\n\n\nUser Location: Oshawa, Canada\n\nAccording to the drawn pieces you need to cut them in a CNC cutting machine, the following images are the development of the gutter and the frame.\n\nNote. Reduces and cuts are needed to be considered in the drawings to be cut to later assemble the pieces.\n\nYou have to bend the gutters and put a screw in them to maintain the shape of the gutter. You need to have 4 gutters per frame.\n\nOnce the gutters and frames you want are assembled, it is time to install them on the wall.\n\n1.-You need to place some anchors in the wall to support the green wall\n2.-The frame begins to be attached to the wall\n3.-Adjus the screw with a screwdriver so that it is fixed\n\nThe number of modules that are desired are installed.\n\n1.-Installed modules\n2.-The plants begin to be put in the gutters\n3.-Finally you finish the installation of your green wall" } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/contribute-to-open-source-projects/README.md b/howtos/contribute-to-open-source-projects/README.md index 7eea9b4cf..9f68d59e3 100644 --- a/howtos/contribute-to-open-source-projects/README.md +++ b/howtos/contribute-to-open-source-projects/README.md @@ -1,40 +1,35 @@ --- title: Contribute to open source projects slug: contribute-to-open-source-projects -description: ### Getting Started with Open Source Contribution - -Starting to contribute to open source projects can be daunting. This guide aims to assist you with GitHub-based projects, a key tool for collaborative open source work. +description: Getting started with contributing to open source projects may seem a little daunting so we wrote a quick guide. This focuses on GitHub based projects as it is a core bit of software for collaborating on open source projects. tags: ["product","starterkit","research"] category: uncategorized difficulty: Easy time: < 1 hour -keywords: open source contribution, GitHub projects, collaborative work, select a project, contribute to open source, contributing guidelines, fork a repository, clone repository, GitHub desktop app, repository maintainers +keywords: location: London, United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland (the) --- # Contribute to open source projects ![Contribute to open source projects](0_Intro_title.png) -### Getting Started with Open Source Contribution - -Starting to contribute to open source projects can be daunting. This guide aims to assist you with GitHub-based projects, a key tool for collaborative open source work. +Getting started with contributing to open source projects may seem a little daunting so we wrote a quick guide. This focuses on GitHub based projects as it is a core bit of software for collaborating on open source projects. User Location: London, United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland (the) ## Steps ### Step 1: Find a project -### Project Selection +First find a project. You can take a look at some of our open source projects as we have many and are very welcoming to all collaborators. One army has many open source projects and from experience they are very welcoming too! -First, select a project. Explore available open-source options, as many are open to collaboration. +github.com: github.com/[filtered] -[GitHub: Explore Projects](https://github.com/[filtered]) +github.com: github.com/darigovresearch -[GitHub: Darigov Research](https://github.com/darigovresearch) ![1_find_a_project.png](./1_find_a_project.png) ### Step 2: Readme & contributing guide -Please refer to the README and contributing guidelines. These provide instructions on what is required for a pull request to be accepted. +Take a look at the read the readme & contributing guidelines. These can give you guidance on what is expected from a pull request in order for it to be merged back. ![2_readme.png](./2_readme.png) @@ -44,34 +39,32 @@ Please refer to the README and contributing guidelines. These provide instructio ### Step 3: View the issues -### Contributing Guidelines - -Review the open issues to find tasks you can address. For newcomers, we suggest selecting tasks that are quick and easy to complete. +See the open issues to see if there’s anything you can do. We recommend finding something that is quick and simple to fix, particularly if it’s the first time you’re contributing to a project. ![3_view_the_issues.png](./3_view_the_issues.png) ### Step 4: Sign in/Sign up -### Instructions - -Create an account or sign in if you already have one by following the user interface steps. +Make an account for the service provided or sign in if you have one already, just follow the steps in the UI and you should be fine. ![4_sign_in.png](./4_sign_in.png) ### Step 5: Fork the repository -To fork a repository, click the fork button when signed in. The URL and page header will reflect your account name, confirming the repository is now associated with your account. +This is done by clicking the fork button while signed in on the repository you’re interested in contributing to. You’ll know it’s yours as you’ll have your account name in the URL and at the top of the page. ![5_fork.png](./5_fork.png) ### Step 6: Make changes -In the browser, edit files by clicking their name and the edit button, which opens a page for editing and previewing changes. For multiple uploads, use the upload button to drag and drop files, providing a message about the changes at the bottom. +This can be done in the browser or on your local computer. -To edit locally, clone the repository, make updates, commit changes, and push them to the server. For GitHub projects, the desktop app is recommended for its intuitive interface. +In the browser you can edit the files by clicking on the file name & then the edit button. It will open a new page where you can edit it & preview the changes. If you’re uploading many files you can use the upload button & drag and drop them. You’ll need to add a message for what changes you’re making in the bottom of the page. + +To edit on your local computer you will need to clone your repository, make the updates locally, commit to the repository & push back to the server. If you’re working on a GitHub project if you want to work on it locally we recommend using the desktop app as it is quite intuitive and open source too! ![6_edit_file.png](./6_edit_file.png) @@ -84,7 +77,7 @@ To edit locally, clone the repository, make updates, commit changes, and push th ### Step 7: Make a pull request -Adhere to any templates or guidelines in the repository. Provide a clear name and brief description of your changes. Reference issues by their numbers to link to the relevant context. You may need to revise based on auto-generated tests or feedback from repository maintainers. +Follow any templates or guidelines that’s in the repository, give it a name that is understandable and a small succinct descriptions of the fixes or changes you’ve made. You can reference any issues by putting the issue number and it will automatically link it to the relevant issue for context. You may need to iterate based on the auto-generated tests (if they have any) or feedback given by the original repository maintainers. ![7_pull_request.png](./7_pull_request.png) @@ -97,45 +90,20 @@ Adhere to any templates or guidelines in the repository. Provide a clear name an ### Step 8: Wait for it to be Merged -Now it will hopefully be merged by the repository maintainers, marking your official contribution to open source. +Now hopefully it will be merged by the repository maintainers and you will have officially contributed to open source! -For further details, refer to the video this tutorial is based on. +If you need more details do take a look at the video that this how-to is based off. -Visit the GitHub page for repositories to contribute to: +Check out the One Army GitHub page for repositories you can contribute to! -[GitHub](https://github.com/[filtered]) +github.com: github.com/[filtered] -For broader context on open source projects, visit our website and GitHub: +If you need some wider context on other open source projects you can take a look at our website and our GitHub as well! -[Darigov Research](https://www.darigovresearch.com/) +darigovresearch.com: darigovresearch.com + +github.com: github.com/darigovresearch -[GitHub - Darigov Research](https://github.com/darigovresearch/) ## Resources -### Required Tools - -- [GitHub](https://github.com/): Platform for repository hosting and collaboration -- [GitHub Explore Projects](https://github.com/explore): Discover open-source projects -- [GitHub Web Editor](https://github.com/): Built-in browser-based file editing -- [GitHub Account](https://github.com/): User profile for contributions -- [Darigov Research GitHub](https://github.com/darigovresearch): Example repository for contributions - -### Software & Applications - -- [GitHub Desktop](https://desktop.github.com/): Local repository management GUI -- Git: Version control system (command-line or GUI) -- Web Browser: Access GitHub's online tools - -### Hardware Requirements - -- Computer: For local development and internet access -- Internet Connection: Required for collaboration and updates -## References -### Articles - -- [Darigov Research](https://www.darigovresearch.com/) - -### Open Source Projects - -- ~~[GitHub: Explore Projects](https://github.com/[filtered])~~ -- [GitHub: Darigov Research](https://github.com/darigovresearch) \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/contribute-to-open-source-projects/config.json b/howtos/contribute-to-open-source-projects/config.json index 5135848b5..eb8e344af 100644 --- a/howtos/contribute-to-open-source-projects/config.json +++ b/howtos/contribute-to-open-source-projects/config.json @@ -12,7 +12,7 @@ "steps": [ { "title": "Find a project", - "text": "### Project Selection\n\nFirst, select a project. Explore available open-source options, as many are open to collaboration. \n\n[GitHub: Explore Projects](https://github.com/[filtered])\n\n[GitHub: Darigov Research](https://github.com/darigovresearch)", + "text": "First find a project. You can take a look at some of our open source projects as we have many and are very welcoming to all collaborators. One army has many open source projects and from experience they are very welcoming too!\n\ngithub.com: github.com/[filtered]\n\ngithub.com: github.com/darigovresearch\n", "_animationKey": "unique1", "images": [ { @@ -56,13 +56,13 @@ "alt": "2_contributing_guideline.png" } ], - "text": "Please refer to the README and contributing guidelines. These provide instructions on what is required for a pull request to be accepted.", + "text": "Take a look at the read the readme & contributing guidelines. These can give you guidance on what is expected from a pull request in order for it to be merged back.", "_animationKey": "unique2", "title": "Readme & contributing guide" }, { "_animationKey": "unique3", - "text": "### Contributing Guidelines\n\nReview the open issues to find tasks you can address. For newcomers, we suggest selecting tasks that are quick and easy to complete.", + "text": "See the open issues to see if there’s anything you can do. We recommend finding something that is quick and simple to fix, particularly if it’s the first time you’re contributing to a project.", "title": "View the issues", "images": [ { @@ -96,7 +96,7 @@ "alt": "4_sign_in.png" } ], - "text": "### Instructions\n\nCreate an account or sign in if you already have one by following the user interface steps." + "text": "Make an account for the service provided or sign in if you have one already, just follow the steps in the UI and you should be fine." }, { "images": [ @@ -114,7 +114,7 @@ } ], "title": "Fork the repository", - "text": "To fork a repository, click the fork button when signed in. The URL and page header will reflect your account name, confirming the repository is now associated with your account.", + "text": "This is done by clicking the fork button while signed in on the repository you’re interested in contributing to. You’ll know it’s yours as you’ll have your account name in the URL and at the top of the page.", "_animationKey": "unique31k2ku" }, { @@ -157,7 +157,7 @@ "alt": "6_commit_message.png" } ], - "text": "In the browser, edit files by clicking their name and the edit button, which opens a page for editing and previewing changes. For multiple uploads, use the upload button to drag and drop files, providing a message about the changes at the bottom.\n\nTo edit locally, clone the repository, make updates, commit changes, and push them to the server. For GitHub projects, the desktop app is recommended for its intuitive interface.", + "text": "This can be done in the browser or on your local computer.\n\nIn the browser you can edit the files by clicking on the file name & then the edit button. It will open a new page where you can edit it & preview the changes. If you’re uploading many files you can use the upload button & drag and drop them. You’ll need to add a message for what changes you’re making in the bottom of the page.\n\nTo edit on your local computer you will need to clone your repository, make the updates locally, commit to the repository & push back to the server. If you’re working on a GitHub project if you want to work on it locally we recommend using the desktop app as it is quite intuitive and open source too!", "_animationKey": "uniquemhp6z" }, { @@ -201,13 +201,13 @@ "alt": "7_complete_pull_request.png" } ], - "text": "Adhere to any templates or guidelines in the repository. Provide a clear name and brief description of your changes. Reference issues by their numbers to link to the relevant context. You may need to revise based on auto-generated tests or feedback from repository maintainers." + "text": "Follow any templates or guidelines that’s in the repository, give it a name that is understandable and a small succinct descriptions of the fixes or changes you’ve made. You can reference any issues by putting the issue number and it will automatically link it to the relevant issue for context. You may need to iterate based on the auto-generated tests (if they have any) or feedback given by the original repository maintainers." }, { "images": [], "_animationKey": "uniquewfmic9", "videoUrl": "https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UWA4wyacY2A", - "text": "Now it will hopefully be merged by the repository maintainers, marking your official contribution to open source.\n\nFor further details, refer to the video this tutorial is based on.\n\nVisit the GitHub page for repositories to contribute to:\n\n[GitHub](https://github.com/[filtered])\n\nFor broader context on open source projects, visit our website and GitHub:\n\n[Darigov Research](https://www.darigovresearch.com/)\n\n[GitHub - Darigov Research](https://github.com/darigovresearch/)", + "text": "Now hopefully it will be merged by the repository maintainers and you will have officially contributed to open source!\n\nIf you need more details do take a look at the video that this how-to is based off.\n\nCheck out the One Army GitHub page for repositories you can contribute to!\n\ngithub.com: github.com/[filtered]\n\nIf you need some wider context on other open source projects you can take a look at our website and our GitHub as well!\n\ndarigovresearch.com: darigovresearch.com\n\ngithub.com: github.com/darigovresearch\n", "title": "Wait for it to be Merged" } ], @@ -225,7 +225,7 @@ }, "fileLink": "", "_contentModifiedTimestamp": "2023-10-21T09:54:29.281Z", - "description": "### Getting Started with Open Source Contribution\n\nStarting to contribute to open source projects can be daunting. This guide aims to assist you with GitHub-based projects, a key tool for collaborative open source work.", + "description": "Getting started with contributing to open source projects may seem a little daunting so we wrote a quick guide. This focuses on GitHub based projects as it is a core bit of software for collaborating on open source projects.", "tags": [ "product", "starterkit", @@ -424,9 +424,5 @@ "category": { "label": "uncategorized" }, - "content": "### Getting Started with Open Source Contribution\n\nStarting to contribute to open source projects can be daunting. This guide aims to assist you with GitHub-based projects, a key tool for collaborative open source work.\n\n\nUser Location: London, United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland (the)\n\n### Project Selection\n\nFirst, select a project. Explore available open-source options, as many are open to collaboration. \n\n~~[GitHub: Explore Projects](https://github.com/[filtered])~~\n\n[GitHub: Darigov Research](https://github.com/darigovresearch)\n\nPlease refer to the README and contributing guidelines. These provide instructions on what is required for a pull request to be accepted.\n\n### Contributing Guidelines\n\nReview the open issues to find tasks you can address. For newcomers, we suggest selecting tasks that are quick and easy to complete.\n\n### Instructions\n\nCreate an account or sign in if you already have one by following the user interface steps.\n\nTo fork a repository, click the fork button when signed in. The URL and page header will reflect your account name, confirming the repository is now associated with your account.\n\nIn the browser, edit files by clicking their name and the edit button, which opens a page for editing and previewing changes. For multiple uploads, use the upload button to drag and drop files, providing a message about the changes at the bottom.\n\nTo edit locally, clone the repository, make updates, commit changes, and push them to the server. For GitHub projects, the desktop app is recommended for its intuitive interface.\n\nAdhere to any templates or guidelines in the repository. Provide a clear name and brief description of your changes. Reference issues by their numbers to link to the relevant context. You may need to revise based on auto-generated tests or feedback from repository maintainers.\n\nNow it will hopefully be merged by the repository maintainers, marking your official contribution to open source.\n\nFor further details, refer to the video this tutorial is based on.\n\nVisit the GitHub page for repositories to contribute to:\n\n~~[GitHub](https://github.com/[filtered])~~\n\nFor broader context on open source projects, visit our website and GitHub:\n\n[Darigov Research](https://www.darigovresearch.com/)\n\n[GitHub - Darigov Research](https://github.com/darigovresearch/)", - "keywords": "open source contribution, GitHub projects, collaborative work, select a project, contribute to open source, contributing guidelines, fork a repository, clone repository, GitHub desktop app, repository maintainers", - "resources": "### Required Tools\n\n- [GitHub](https://github.com/): Platform for repository hosting and collaboration\n- [GitHub Explore Projects](https://github.com/explore): Discover open-source projects\n- [GitHub Web Editor](https://github.com/): Built-in browser-based file editing\n- [GitHub Account](https://github.com/): User profile for contributions\n- [Darigov Research GitHub](https://github.com/darigovresearch): Example repository for contributions\n\n### Software & Applications\n\n- [GitHub Desktop](https://desktop.github.com/): Local repository management GUI\n- Git: Version control system (command-line or GUI)\n- Web Browser: Access GitHub's online tools\n\n### Hardware Requirements\n\n- Computer: For local development and internet access\n- Internet Connection: Required for collaboration and updates", - "references": "### Articles\n\n- [Darigov Research](https://www.darigovresearch.com/)\n\n### Open Source Projects\n\n- ~~[GitHub: Explore Projects](https://github.com/[filtered])~~\n- [GitHub: Darigov Research](https://github.com/darigovresearch)", - "brief": "Begin your open source journey with our GitHub guide. Choose a project, follow easy steps, and contribute effortlessly to collaborative projects." + "content": "Getting started with contributing to open source projects may seem a little daunting so we wrote a quick guide. This focuses on GitHub based projects as it is a core bit of software for collaborating on open source projects.\n\n\nUser Location: London, United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland (the)\n\nFirst find a project. You can take a look at some of our open source projects as we have many and are very welcoming to all collaborators. One army has many open source projects and from experience they are very welcoming too!\n\ngithub.com: github.com/[filtered]\n\ngithub.com: github.com/darigovresearch\n\n\nTake a look at the read the readme & contributing guidelines. These can give you guidance on what is expected from a pull request in order for it to be merged back.\n\nSee the open issues to see if there’s anything you can do. We recommend finding something that is quick and simple to fix, particularly if it’s the first time you’re contributing to a project.\n\nMake an account for the service provided or sign in if you have one already, just follow the steps in the UI and you should be fine.\n\nThis is done by clicking the fork button while signed in on the repository you’re interested in contributing to. You’ll know it’s yours as you’ll have your account name in the URL and at the top of the page.\n\nThis can be done in the browser or on your local computer.\n\nIn the browser you can edit the files by clicking on the file name & then the edit button. It will open a new page where you can edit it & preview the changes. If you’re uploading many files you can use the upload button & drag and drop them. You’ll need to add a message for what changes you’re making in the bottom of the page.\n\nTo edit on your local computer you will need to clone your repository, make the updates locally, commit to the repository & push back to the server. If you’re working on a GitHub project if you want to work on it locally we recommend using the desktop app as it is quite intuitive and open source too!\n\nFollow any templates or guidelines that’s in the repository, give it a name that is understandable and a small succinct descriptions of the fixes or changes you’ve made. You can reference any issues by putting the issue number and it will automatically link it to the relevant issue for context. You may need to iterate based on the auto-generated tests (if they have any) or feedback given by the original repository maintainers.\n\nNow hopefully it will be merged by the repository maintainers and you will have officially contributed to open source!\n\nIf you need more details do take a look at the video that this how-to is based off.\n\nCheck out the One Army GitHub page for repositories you can contribute to!\n\ngithub.com: github.com/[filtered]\n\nIf you need some wider context on other open source projects you can take a look at our website and our GitHub as well!\n\ndarigovresearch.com: darigovresearch.com\n\ngithub.com: github.com/darigovresearch\n" } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/create-a-bench-with-2x4-beams/README.md b/howtos/create-a-bench-with-2x4-beams/README.md index 4b4d53b7a..30ed0a982 100644 --- a/howtos/create-a-bench-with-2x4-beams/README.md +++ b/howtos/create-a-bench-with-2x4-beams/README.md @@ -1,34 +1,35 @@ --- title: Create a bench with 2x4 beams slug: create-a-bench-with-2x4-beams -description: This tutorial explains how to build a bench using 2x4 extruded beams. The finished bench will weigh over 80 pounds (approximately 36 kilograms). +description: This how-to will showcase how to create a bench using 2x4 extruded beams. Once complete, your bench will consist of over 80 pounds of plastic waste! tags: ["untagged","extrusion","PP"] category: Products difficulty: Medium time: < 1 week -keywords: bench building, extruded beams, DIY furniture, PP plastic, woodworking tools, assembly instructions, bench construction, V4 extruder, Baltimore DIY, homemade bench +keywords: location: Baltimore, United States of America (the) --- # Create a bench with 2x4 beams ![Create a bench with 2x4 beams](0F336C0F-D886-450F-ACB0-018852CC6746.jpeg) -This tutorial explains how to build a bench using 2x4 extruded beams. The finished bench will weigh over 80 pounds (approximately 36 kilograms). +This how-to will showcase how to create a bench using 2x4 extruded beams. Once complete, your bench will consist of over 80 pounds of plastic waste! User Location: Baltimore, United States of America (the) ## Steps ### Step 1: Prepare your material and equipment -This process requires the following tools and equipment: +This process will require a few tools and equipment. These include: +-V4 Extruder +-2x4 mold( measurements= 1.5"x3.5"x6') +-Roughly 85 lbs of shredded PP plastic +-Cooling tank +-Miter Saw +-Drill +-Drill Bits +-Deck Screws + +Once you have all your material and equipment you're ready to get started! -- V4 Extruder -- 2x4 mold (1.5 in x 3.5 in x 6 ft) -- Approximately 85 lbs (38.6 kg) of shredded PP plastic -- Cooling tank -- Miter saw -- Drill -- Drill bits -- Deck screws -Once you have gathered all your materials and equipment, you are ready to begin. ![IMG_2914.jpg](./IMG_2914.jpg) @@ -38,14 +39,14 @@ Once you have gathered all your materials and equipment, you are ready to begin. ### Step 2: Prep -Ensure all plastic is thoroughly cleaned, sorted by type (and color if necessary), and shredded to the desired flake size. For our bench, we used PP (#5) plastic. +In this step we want to make sure all of our plastic is as clean as possible, sorted by type ( and color if preferred), and shredded to desired flake size. For our bench we used all PP (#5) ![8E4E2360-A83C-4F60-B586-FC2A0CD4E900.jpeg](./8E4E2360-A83C-4F60-B586-FC2A0CD4E900.jpeg) ### Step 3: Extrude -With the plastic prepared, it is ready for extrusion into beams. Set the extruder temperature to 240°C (464°F) for PP plastic. Attach the mold. Begin extruding at 45-50 RPM, ensuring the hopper remains filled. Once the 6-foot (1.83-meter) mold is filled, disconnect it and place it in a cooling tank with cold water for approximately 20 minutes. After the plastic solidifies, remove it from the mold. Repeat until you have eight 6-foot beams. +Now that all of our plastic is prepped it is ready to be extruded into beams. We set our extruder temps to 240 degrees Celsius for our PP plastic with good results. At this point the mold should now be attached. Once temps have been set, you can begin extruding at 45-50 rpms. Keep a close eye on the hopper ensuring it stays filled. Once all 6 feet of the mold has been filled it can be disconnected from the extruder and dropped in a cooling tank with cold water for about 20 min. After the plastic has solidified it can be removed from the mold. Repeat this step until you have 8 six foot beams. ![41A2A2FB-D5D0-4338-8D7C-9D86910A5AFD.png](./41A2A2FB-D5D0-4338-8D7C-9D86910A5AFD.png) @@ -58,43 +59,49 @@ With the plastic prepared, it is ready for extrusion into beams. Set the extrude ### Step 4: Cut -The beams should first be trimmed to remove any excess material at the ends. Next, cut the beams to the specified dimensions using a chop saw: +Now the beams need to be trimmed and cut to size. First, the beams will need to have the ends trimmed of any protruding plastic. + +Once trimmed, the beams will need to be cut using a chop saw to the measurements listed: +(4) 5’4” beams (Benchtop) +(1) 60” beam (Ground Support) +(4) 16” beams (Legs) +(6) 15” beams (Braces) +(2) 11 1/4” beams -- (4) beams, each 5 feet 4 inches (163 cm) for the Benchtop -- (1) beam, 60 inches (152 cm) for Ground Support -- (4) beams, each 16 inches (41 cm) for the Legs -- (6) beams, each 15 inches (38 cm) for the Braces -- (2) beams, each 11 1/4 inches (29 cm) ![9EB14FD3-C6DB-446D-B4A3-96862F864829.png](./9EB14FD3-C6DB-446D-B4A3-96862F864829.png) ### Step 5: Staging -### Assembly Instructions +Now that we have all our pieces made and cut to size we can begin assembly -Lay out the four longest beams side by side to form the bench top, maintaining a spacing of approximately 0.25 inches (6.35 mm) between each. Attach the braces at the ends of the bench top. +Now, Lay out your 4 longest beams next to each other to stage your bench top. Each beam should have roughly a quarter inch of spacing between them. Now add your braces along the ends of the benchtop ![C6BE9A60-C56D-4F45-844D-35403C94FE3F.jpeg](./C6BE9A60-C56D-4F45-844D-35403C94FE3F.jpeg) ### Step 6: Assemble -At this stage, attach the beams using 2.5-inch (6.35 cm) deck screws. Pre-drill pilot holes to prevent cracking. +At this point in the process we can begin attaching the beams using 2.5 inch deck screws. These holes should be pre-drilled with pilot holes to prevent cracking ![690FCC2F-B093-41A3-BA71-DE0A7291EA13.jpeg](./690FCC2F-B093-41A3-BA71-DE0A7291EA13.jpeg) ### Step 7: Attaching legs -Begin assembling the bench on a tarp to collect drill shavings for potential reuse. Position the 16-inch (40.64 cm) beams at each corner as legs. Drill pilot holes and secure with screws. +This is when the bench will start to take shape. While assembling we recommend doing so on a tarp to collect any shavings created by drilling to be re-used. + +Take your 16 inch beams and stage them as the legs on all four corners. Drill pilot holes and attach with screws. + + ![20177182-8578-4860-B090-5C4EE57F8C14.jpeg](./20177182-8578-4860-B090-5C4EE57F8C14.jpeg) ### Step 8: Attaching supports and braces -With the bench top and legs prepared, the next step is to reinforce the structure. Position the 15-inch (38 cm) beams between the legs as braces. Next, use the 11 1/4 inch (28.5 cm) beams to install a perpendicular support, connecting the bench top to the 60-inch (152 cm) beam that spans the base. +Now that we have our bench top and legs, all that’s left is to brace and support the structure. Take your 15 inch beams and place them between the legs to create braces between them. Then take your 11 1/4 inch beams to create a support perpendicular to the bench, attaching the bench top to the 60 inch beam which will run across the bottom of the bench on the ground ![1D8056DD-DCEC-4F02-B349-B629583EB24D.jpeg](./1D8056DD-DCEC-4F02-B349-B629583EB24D.jpeg) @@ -104,7 +111,7 @@ With the bench top and legs prepared, the next step is to reinforce the structur ### Step 9: Enjoy! -Choose a suitable location to install your bench, such as a backyard or park. +Now you can find a great location to install your new bench whether it be in your backyard or local park! ![4C777FB3-02A1-4140-9D1E-3A972B663873.jpeg](./4C777FB3-02A1-4140-9D1E-3A972B663873.jpeg) @@ -116,46 +123,4 @@ Choose a suitable location to install your bench, such as a backyard or park. ![21F32179-FAE1-4CAA-806C-B5C53C15ABC6.jpeg](./21F32179-FAE1-4CAA-806C-B5C53C15ABC6.jpeg) ## Resources -To build a bench using 2x4 extruded beams, you’ll need the following items grouped by category: - -### Tools & Equipment - -- V4 Extruder -- 2x4 mold (1.5 in x 3.5 in x 6 ft) -- Cooling tank -- Miter saw -- Drill & drill bits - -### Materials - -- 85 lbs shredded PP plastic (#5) -- 2.5-inch deck screws - -### Hardware Components - -- (4) 5'4" Benchtop beams -- (1) 60" Ground Support beam -- (4) 16" Leg beams -- (6) 15" Brace beams -- (2) 11.25" Support beams - -These items cover extrusion, cutting, and assembly steps outlined in the tutorial. The process involves shredding plastic, molding beams, and constructing the bench with precise cuts and screws. -## References -### Articles - -https://pri-plastics.com/understanding-plastic-extrusion-a-comprehensive-guide/\ -https://www.[filtered].earth/news/extrusion-machine - -### Books - -https://www.barnesandnoble.com/w/extrusion-harold-f-giles-jr/1111448551 - -### YouTube - -https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tGc-Z7TtiVg\ -https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1A05nDBKzVc\ -https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Hmp4K3NwB0 - -### Opensource Designs - -https://community.preciousplastic.com/library/make-a-bench-with-beams \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/create-a-bench-with-2x4-beams/config.json b/howtos/create-a-bench-with-2x4-beams/config.json index df796d9b1..ecd414955 100644 --- a/howtos/create-a-bench-with-2x4-beams/config.json +++ b/howtos/create-a-bench-with-2x4-beams/config.json @@ -8,7 +8,7 @@ "steps": [ { "_animationKey": "unique1", - "text": "This process requires the following tools and equipment:\n\n- V4 Extruder\n- 2x4 mold (1.5 in x 3.5 in x 6 ft)\n- Approximately 85 lbs (38.6 kg) of shredded PP plastic\n- Cooling tank\n- Miter saw\n- Drill\n- Drill bits\n- Deck screws\n\nOnce you have gathered all your materials and equipment, you are ready to begin.", + "text": "This process will require a few tools and equipment. These include:\n-V4 Extruder\n-2x4 mold( measurements= 1.5\"x3.5\"x6')\n-Roughly 85 lbs of shredded PP plastic\n-Cooling tank\n-Miter Saw\n-Drill\n-Drill Bits\n-Deck Screws\n\nOnce you have all your material and equipment you're ready to get started!\n\n", "title": "Prepare your material and equipment", "images": [ { @@ -39,7 +39,7 @@ }, { "title": "Prep", - "text": "Ensure all plastic is thoroughly cleaned, sorted by type (and color if necessary), and shredded to the desired flake size. For our bench, we used PP (#5) plastic.", + "text": "In this step we want to make sure all of our plastic is as clean as possible, sorted by type ( and color if preferred), and shredded to desired flake size. For our bench we used all PP (#5) ", "images": [ { "fullPath": "uploads/howtos/R11Diwxd587Py61025xa/8E4E2360-A83C-4F60-B586-FC2A0CD4E900.jpeg", @@ -58,7 +58,7 @@ }, { "_animationKey": "unique71rtee", - "text": "With the plastic prepared, it is ready for extrusion into beams. Set the extruder temperature to 240°C (464°F) for PP plastic. Attach the mold. Begin extruding at 45-50 RPM, ensuring the hopper remains filled. Once the 6-foot (1.83-meter) mold is filled, disconnect it and place it in a cooling tank with cold water for approximately 20 minutes. After the plastic solidifies, remove it from the mold. Repeat until you have eight 6-foot beams.", + "text": "Now that all of our plastic is prepped it is ready to be extruded into beams. We set our extruder temps to 240 degrees Celsius for our PP plastic with good results. At this point the mold should now be attached. Once temps have been set, you can begin extruding at 45-50 rpms. Keep a close eye on the hopper ensuring it stays filled. Once all 6 feet of the mold has been filled it can be disconnected from the extruder and dropped in a cooling tank with cold water for about 20 min. After the plastic has solidified it can be removed from the mold. Repeat this step until you have 8 six foot beams.", "images": [ { "size": 183967, @@ -101,7 +101,7 @@ }, { "_animationKey": "unique5pjdcc", - "text": "The beams should first be trimmed to remove any excess material at the ends. Next, cut the beams to the specified dimensions using a chop saw:\n\n- (4) beams, each 5 feet 4 inches (163 cm) for the Benchtop\n- (1) beam, 60 inches (152 cm) for Ground Support\n- (4) beams, each 16 inches (41 cm) for the Legs\n- (6) beams, each 15 inches (38 cm) for the Braces\n- (2) beams, each 11 1/4 inches (29 cm)", + "text": "Now the beams need to be trimmed and cut to size. First, the beams will need to have the ends trimmed of any protruding plastic. \n\nOnce trimmed, the beams will need to be cut using a chop saw to the measurements listed:\n(4) 5’4” beams (Benchtop)\n(1) 60” beam (Ground Support)\n(4) 16” beams (Legs)\n(6) 15” beams (Braces)\n(2) 11 1/4” beams\n", "title": "Cut", "images": [ { @@ -120,7 +120,7 @@ }, { "_animationKey": "unique6iwias", - "text": "### Assembly Instructions\n\nLay out the four longest beams side by side to form the bench top, maintaining a spacing of approximately 0.25 inches (6.35 mm) between each. Attach the braces at the ends of the bench top.", + "text": "Now that we have all our pieces made and cut to size we can begin assembly\n\nNow, Lay out your 4 longest beams next to each other to stage your bench top. Each beam should have roughly a quarter inch of spacing between them. Now add your braces along the ends of the benchtop", "images": [ { "updated": "2022-01-27T18:54:30.627Z", @@ -152,12 +152,12 @@ "alt": "690FCC2F-B093-41A3-BA71-DE0A7291EA13.jpeg" } ], - "text": "At this stage, attach the beams using 2.5-inch (6.35 cm) deck screws. Pre-drill pilot holes to prevent cracking.", + "text": "At this point in the process we can begin attaching the beams using 2.5 inch deck screws. These holes should be pre-drilled with pilot holes to prevent cracking", "title": "Assemble", "_animationKey": "unique1f2buq" }, { - "text": "Begin assembling the bench on a tarp to collect drill shavings for potential reuse. Position the 16-inch (40.64 cm) beams at each corner as legs. Drill pilot holes and secure with screws.", + "text": "This is when the bench will start to take shape. While assembling we recommend doing so on a tarp to collect any shavings created by drilling to be re-used.\n\nTake your 16 inch beams and stage them as the legs on all four corners. Drill pilot holes and attach with screws.\n\n", "_animationKey": "uniquekvd5qv", "images": [ { @@ -176,7 +176,7 @@ "title": "Attaching legs" }, { - "text": "With the bench top and legs prepared, the next step is to reinforce the structure. Position the 15-inch (38 cm) beams between the legs as braces. Next, use the 11 1/4 inch (28.5 cm) beams to install a perpendicular support, connecting the bench top to the 60-inch (152 cm) beam that spans the base.", + "text": "Now that we have our bench top and legs, all that’s left is to brace and support the structure. Take your 15 inch beams and place them between the legs to create braces between them. Then take your 11 1/4 inch beams to create a support perpendicular to the bench, attaching the bench top to the 60 inch beam which will run across the bottom of the bench on the ground", "title": "Attaching supports and braces", "images": [ { @@ -247,7 +247,7 @@ } ], "title": "Enjoy!", - "text": "Choose a suitable location to install your bench, such as a backyard or park." + "text": "Now you can find a great location to install your new bench whether it be in your backyard or local park!" } ], "_created": "2022-01-27T17:59:13.813Z", @@ -323,7 +323,7 @@ "src": "C:\\Users\\zx\\Desktop\\osr\\osr-machines\\howtos\\create-a-bench-with-2x4-beams\\0f336c0f-d886-450f-acb0-018852cc6746.jpeg" }, "difficulty_level": "Medium", - "description": "This tutorial explains how to build a bench using 2x4 extruded beams. The finished bench will weigh over 80 pounds (approximately 36 kilograms).", + "description": "This how-to will showcase how to create a bench using 2x4 extruded beams. Once complete, your bench will consist of over 80 pounds of plastic waste!", "_createdBy": "upcycled-inc", "_modified": "2024-01-16T16:24:13.359Z", "slug": "create-a-bench-with-2x4-beams", @@ -517,9 +517,5 @@ "images": [] } }, - "content": "This tutorial explains how to build a bench using 2x4 extruded beams. The finished bench will weigh over 80 pounds (approximately 36 kilograms).\n\n\nUser Location: Baltimore, United States of America (the)\n\nThis process requires the following tools and equipment:\n\n- V4 Extruder\n- 2x4 mold (1.5 in x 3.5 in x 6 ft)\n- Approximately 85 lbs (38.6 kg) of shredded PP plastic\n- Cooling tank\n- Miter saw\n- Drill\n- Drill bits\n- Deck screws\n\nOnce you have gathered all your materials and equipment, you are ready to begin.\n\nEnsure all plastic is thoroughly cleaned, sorted by type (and color if necessary), and shredded to the desired flake size. For our bench, we used PP (#5) plastic.\n\nWith the plastic prepared, it is ready for extrusion into beams. Set the extruder temperature to 240°C (464°F) for PP plastic. Attach the mold. Begin extruding at 45-50 RPM, ensuring the hopper remains filled. Once the 6-foot (1.83-meter) mold is filled, disconnect it and place it in a cooling tank with cold water for approximately 20 minutes. After the plastic solidifies, remove it from the mold. Repeat until you have eight 6-foot beams.\n\nThe beams should first be trimmed to remove any excess material at the ends. Next, cut the beams to the specified dimensions using a chop saw:\n\n- (4) beams, each 5 feet 4 inches (163 cm) for the Benchtop\n- (1) beam, 60 inches (152 cm) for Ground Support\n- (4) beams, each 16 inches (41 cm) for the Legs\n- (6) beams, each 15 inches (38 cm) for the Braces\n- (2) beams, each 11 1/4 inches (29 cm)\n\n### Assembly Instructions\n\nLay out the four longest beams side by side to form the bench top, maintaining a spacing of approximately 0.25 inches (6.35 mm) between each. Attach the braces at the ends of the bench top.\n\nAt this stage, attach the beams using 2.5-inch (6.35 cm) deck screws. Pre-drill pilot holes to prevent cracking.\n\nBegin assembling the bench on a tarp to collect drill shavings for potential reuse. Position the 16-inch (40.64 cm) beams at each corner as legs. Drill pilot holes and secure with screws.\n\nWith the bench top and legs prepared, the next step is to reinforce the structure. Position the 15-inch (38 cm) beams between the legs as braces. Next, use the 11 1/4 inch (28.5 cm) beams to install a perpendicular support, connecting the bench top to the 60-inch (152 cm) beam that spans the base.\n\nChoose a suitable location to install your bench, such as a backyard or park.", - "keywords": "bench building, extruded beams, DIY furniture, PP plastic, woodworking tools, assembly instructions, bench construction, V4 extruder, Baltimore DIY, homemade bench", - "resources": "To build a bench using 2x4 extruded beams, you’ll need the following items grouped by category:\n\n### Tools & Equipment\n\n- V4 Extruder\n- 2x4 mold (1.5 in x 3.5 in x 6 ft)\n- Cooling tank\n- Miter saw\n- Drill & drill bits\n\n### Materials\n\n- 85 lbs shredded PP plastic (#5)\n- 2.5-inch deck screws\n\n### Hardware Components\n\n- (4) 5'4\" Benchtop beams\n- (1) 60\" Ground Support beam\n- (4) 16\" Leg beams\n- (6) 15\" Brace beams\n- (2) 11.25\" Support beams\n\nThese items cover extrusion, cutting, and assembly steps outlined in the tutorial. The process involves shredding plastic, molding beams, and constructing the bench with precise cuts and screws.", - "references": "### Articles\n\nhttps://pri-plastics.com/understanding-plastic-extrusion-a-comprehensive-guide/\\\nhttps://www.[filtered].earth/news/extrusion-machine\n\n### Books\n\nhttps://www.barnesandnoble.com/w/extrusion-harold-f-giles-jr/1111448551\n\n### YouTube\n\nhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tGc-Z7TtiVg\\\nhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1A05nDBKzVc\\\nhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Hmp4K3NwB0\n\n### Opensource Designs\n\nhttps://community.preciousplastic.com/library/make-a-bench-with-beams", - "brief": "Learn how to build a sturdy bench using 2x4 extruded beams and shredded PP plastic with our step-by-step guide, perfect for DIY enthusiasts and outdoor spaces." + "content": "This how-to will showcase how to create a bench using 2x4 extruded beams. Once complete, your bench will consist of over 80 pounds of plastic waste!\n\n\nUser Location: Baltimore, United States of America (the)\n\nThis process will require a few tools and equipment. These include:\n-V4 Extruder\n-2x4 mold( measurements= 1.5\"x3.5\"x6')\n-Roughly 85 lbs of shredded PP plastic\n-Cooling tank\n-Miter Saw\n-Drill\n-Drill Bits\n-Deck Screws\n\nOnce you have all your material and equipment you're ready to get started!\n\n\n\nIn this step we want to make sure all of our plastic is as clean as possible, sorted by type ( and color if preferred), and shredded to desired flake size. For our bench we used all PP (#5) \n\nNow that all of our plastic is prepped it is ready to be extruded into beams. We set our extruder temps to 240 degrees Celsius for our PP plastic with good results. At this point the mold should now be attached. Once temps have been set, you can begin extruding at 45-50 rpms. Keep a close eye on the hopper ensuring it stays filled. Once all 6 feet of the mold has been filled it can be disconnected from the extruder and dropped in a cooling tank with cold water for about 20 min. After the plastic has solidified it can be removed from the mold. Repeat this step until you have 8 six foot beams.\n\nNow the beams need to be trimmed and cut to size. First, the beams will need to have the ends trimmed of any protruding plastic. \n\nOnce trimmed, the beams will need to be cut using a chop saw to the measurements listed:\n(4) 5’4” beams (Benchtop)\n(1) 60” beam (Ground Support)\n(4) 16” beams (Legs)\n(6) 15” beams (Braces)\n(2) 11 1/4” beams\n\n\nNow that we have all our pieces made and cut to size we can begin assembly\n\nNow, Lay out your 4 longest beams next to each other to stage your bench top. Each beam should have roughly a quarter inch of spacing between them. Now add your braces along the ends of the benchtop\n\nAt this point in the process we can begin attaching the beams using 2.5 inch deck screws. These holes should be pre-drilled with pilot holes to prevent cracking\n\nThis is when the bench will start to take shape. While assembling we recommend doing so on a tarp to collect any shavings created by drilling to be re-used.\n\nTake your 16 inch beams and stage them as the legs on all four corners. Drill pilot holes and attach with screws.\n\n\n\nNow that we have our bench top and legs, all that’s left is to brace and support the structure. Take your 15 inch beams and place them between the legs to create braces between them. Then take your 11 1/4 inch beams to create a support perpendicular to the bench, attaching the bench top to the 60 inch beam which will run across the bottom of the bench on the ground\n\nNow you can find a great location to install your new bench whether it be in your backyard or local park!" } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/create-a-lamp-with-translucent-hdpe/README.md b/howtos/create-a-lamp-with-translucent-hdpe/README.md index bc83c36be..50b5ae5f6 100644 --- a/howtos/create-a-lamp-with-translucent-hdpe/README.md +++ b/howtos/create-a-lamp-with-translucent-hdpe/README.md @@ -1,23 +1,23 @@ --- title: Create a lamp with translucent HDPE slug: create-a-lamp-with-translucent-hdpe -description: Hello, we created a lamp to explore translucent HDPE properties. By sorting shredded transparent and colored bottle caps, you achieve a liquid-like effect. The key is in your color choice, allowing for diverse visual outcomes. +description: Hello, we created a little lamp in order to explore the properties of translucent HDPE. By carefully sorting shredded samples of transparent and coloured bottle cups you can achieve the "liquid like" effect you can appreciate in the picture. It's all about the colours you choose, you can come up with many different tasty plastic juices. tags: ["injection","product","HDPE"] category: Products difficulty: Medium time: < 5 hours -keywords: HDPE lamp, translucent lamp design, DIY HDPE lamp, colored bottle caps lamp, injection molding lamp, laser cut lamp components, liquid-light effect lamp, customized lamp assembly, makerspace lamp project, eco-friendly lamp design +keywords: location: Donostia / San Sebastian, Spain --- # Create a lamp with translucent HDPE ![Create a lamp with translucent HDPE](Argitu-186cae2dcf4.jpg) -Hello, we created a lamp to explore translucent HDPE properties. By sorting shredded transparent and colored bottle caps, you achieve a liquid-like effect. The key is in your color choice, allowing for diverse visual outcomes. +Hello, we created a little lamp in order to explore the properties of translucent HDPE. By carefully sorting shredded samples of transparent and coloured bottle cups you can achieve the "liquid like" effect you can appreciate in the picture. It's all about the colours you choose, you can come up with many different tasty plastic juices. User Location: Donostia / San Sebastian, Spain ## Steps ### Step 1: Sorting and Shredding -Collect HDPE bottle caps from a local source. To achieve a liquid-light effect for your lamp, use both transparent and colored caps. Adding a small amount of shredded colored plastic will tint and alter the final appearance. Sort and shred the plastic carefully. +Grab some HDPE bottle cups from your local collection point. In order to create the liquid-light effect you see on the lamp you will need transparent cups and coloured cups. Choose according to your preferences. Sprinkling a little bit of shredded coloured plastic into your mixture will already dye and obscure the final result. Be patient and sort peacefully, enjoy the therapeutic exercise of shredding plastic. ![SORTING_1-186cb03e4a8.JPG](./SORTING_1-186cb03e4a8.JPG) @@ -30,7 +30,7 @@ Collect HDPE bottle caps from a local source. To achieve a liquid-light effect f ### Step 2: Injection moulding -In the initial image, the light bulb is positioned between two discs. Begin by creating the discs using injection molding. The mold has a thin wall thickness of 3 millimeters (0.12 inches). Refer to the Academy for melting temperatures for HDPE. Experiment with various color combinations. Each disc requires less than 30 grams (1.06 ounces) of material, so adding 3 or 4 grams (0.11 or 0.14 ounces) of color will suffice to tint the plastic. +As you can appreciate in the first picture, the light bulb is standing in between two discs. So, now its time to create the discs by injection moulding. Notice that we have used a mould with a thin wall thickness, 3 millimeters. On the other hand, check out the melting temperatures for HDPE at the Academy. Try different colour combinations. Less than 30 grams are needed per disc, so adding 3 or 4 grams of colour will already "obscure" your plastic juice. ![MOULD_2-186cb095ed3.JPG](./MOULD_2-186cb095ed3.JPG) @@ -43,9 +43,8 @@ In the initial image, the light bulb is positioned between two discs. Begin by c ### Step 3: Laser cut -The clamp for the discs is constructed from wood. We utilized a laser cutting machine at a local makerspace to produce the wooden components. The wood is 0.39 inches (1 cm) thick, and the CAD drawings are included in the download package. The clamp is tailored to accommodate a specific lamp holder and bulb, but you may adjust the design for lamp holders available at local stores. The wooden pieces were later spray-painted. - -A small square indentation must be cut from the disc to allow it to attach to the wooden part securely. This feature enables you to swap out discs without using adhesive, facilitating various lighting effects. +The clamp that holds both discs is made out from wood. We were able to use a laser cut machine at a public makerspace in our city to create a set of wooden pieces. The wood used for this design is 1 cm thick and you can find the CAD drawing at the download package. The clamp has been designed to hold a specific lamp holder and bulb. Feel free to adjust the drawing for the lamp holder you can find at your local electricity supplies storehouse. Later on, the wooden pieces were spray painted. +On the other hand, notice that a little square shaped indentation needs to be cut from the disc so that it pins and assembles to the wooden part. This way you can exchange different discs without glueing them to the wooden part. The aim is to create different lighting effects. ![MOUNT-186cb1e46e2.JPG](./MOUNT-186cb1e46e2.JPG) @@ -58,7 +57,8 @@ A small square indentation must be cut from the disc to allow it to attach to th ### Step 4: Assembling the light and finding a place for it. -Assembling the lamp should be quick, as all parts are designed to fit securely. If the structure is unstable, apply glue for reinforcement. You can place it on a bedside table, a desk, or hang it. We would appreciate seeing your completed work. +Assembling the lamp should not take you much time, theoretically everything should fit tightly. If your final result is too shaky, consider using some glue to reinforce your structure. +Now you can place it at your bedsite table or on your working desk, even hanging it is an option. Let us know if you decide to make one, we'd love to see your results. ![AG_1-186cb3a5f72.JPG](./AG_1-186cb3a5f72.JPG) @@ -70,36 +70,4 @@ Assembling the lamp should be quick, as all parts are designed to fit securely. ![AG_3-186cb3a8044.JPG](./AG_3-186cb3a8044.JPG) ## Resources -To create the HDPE lamp described, you'll need the following tools, software, hardware, and materials: - -### Tools - -- HDPE bottle cap collection (local sources in Donostia/San Sebastian) -- Plastic shredder for processing caps -- Color sorting system for translucent/colored caps -- Injection molding equipment with 3mm-thick molds -- Spray paint for wooden components - -### Software - -- CAD software to modify wooden clamp designs (drawings included) - -### Hardware - -- Laser cutting machine (available at local makerspaces) -- Injection molding system for disc production -- Standard lamp holder and bulb assembly - -### Materials - -- Transparent/colored HDPE bottle caps -- Shredded colored plastic (3-4g per disc for tinting) -- 1 cm thick wood sheets for clamp construction -- Spray-paintable wooden components -- Adhesive (optional reinforcement) - -The lamp's modular design allows customization using locally available materials and makerspace equipment. Total material per disc stays under 30g HDPE with <5g color additives[1][2][4][5]. -## References -**References** - -No external reference links were provided in the text to process. \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/create-a-lamp-with-translucent-hdpe/config.json b/howtos/create-a-lamp-with-translucent-hdpe/config.json index 8a0ac5416..7a47c7d4e 100644 --- a/howtos/create-a-lamp-with-translucent-hdpe/config.json +++ b/howtos/create-a-lamp-with-translucent-hdpe/config.json @@ -40,11 +40,11 @@ } ], "title": "Sorting and Shredding", - "text": "Collect HDPE bottle caps from a local source. To achieve a liquid-light effect for your lamp, use both transparent and colored caps. Adding a small amount of shredded colored plastic will tint and alter the final appearance. Sort and shred the plastic carefully.", + "text": "Grab some HDPE bottle cups from your local collection point. In order to create the liquid-light effect you see on the lamp you will need transparent cups and coloured cups. Choose according to your preferences. Sprinkling a little bit of shredded coloured plastic into your mixture will already dye and obscure the final result. Be patient and sort peacefully, enjoy the therapeutic exercise of shredding plastic. ", "_animationKey": "unique1" }, { - "text": "In the initial image, the light bulb is positioned between two discs. Begin by creating the discs using injection molding. The mold has a thin wall thickness of 3 millimeters (0.12 inches). Refer to the Academy for melting temperatures for HDPE. Experiment with various color combinations. Each disc requires less than 30 grams (1.06 ounces) of material, so adding 3 or 4 grams (0.11 or 0.14 ounces) of color will suffice to tint the plastic.", + "text": "As you can appreciate in the first picture, the light bulb is standing in between two discs. So, now its time to create the discs by injection moulding. Notice that we have used a mould with a thin wall thickness, 3 millimeters. On the other hand, check out the melting temperatures for HDPE at the Academy. Try different colour combinations. Less than 30 grams are needed per disc, so adding 3 or 4 grams of colour will already \"obscure\" your plastic juice. ", "images": [ { "fullPath": "uploads/howtos/1lhRUtVBSeUfo7VJYfu0/MOULD_2-186cb095ed3.JPG", @@ -125,7 +125,7 @@ "alt": "ZURA_MARGOTU-186cb222c4a.JPG" } ], - "text": "The clamp for the discs is constructed from wood. We utilized a laser cutting machine at a local makerspace to produce the wooden components. The wood is 0.39 inches (1 cm) thick, and the CAD drawings are included in the download package. The clamp is tailored to accommodate a specific lamp holder and bulb, but you may adjust the design for lamp holders available at local stores. The wooden pieces were later spray-painted.\n\nA small square indentation must be cut from the disc to allow it to attach to the wooden part securely. This feature enables you to swap out discs without using adhesive, facilitating various lighting effects.", + "text": "The clamp that holds both discs is made out from wood. We were able to use a laser cut machine at a public makerspace in our city to create a set of wooden pieces. The wood used for this design is 1 cm thick and you can find the CAD drawing at the download package. The clamp has been designed to hold a specific lamp holder and bulb. Feel free to adjust the drawing for the lamp holder you can find at your local electricity supplies storehouse. Later on, the wooden pieces were spray painted. \nOn the other hand, notice that a little square shaped indentation needs to be cut from the disc so that it pins and assembles to the wooden part. This way you can exchange different discs without glueing them to the wooden part. The aim is to create different lighting effects. ", "title": "Laser cut", "_animationKey": "unique3" }, @@ -169,7 +169,7 @@ "alt": "AG_3-186cb3a8044.JPG" } ], - "text": "Assembling the lamp should be quick, as all parts are designed to fit securely. If the structure is unstable, apply glue for reinforcement. You can place it on a bedside table, a desk, or hang it. We would appreciate seeing your completed work.", + "text": "Assembling the lamp should not take you much time, theoretically everything should fit tightly. If your final result is too shaky, consider using some glue to reinforce your structure. \nNow you can place it at your bedsite table or on your working desk, even hanging it is an option. Let us know if you decide to make one, we'd love to see your results. ", "title": "Assembling the light and finding a place for it. " } ], @@ -202,7 +202,7 @@ "previousSlugs": [ "create-a-lamp-with-translucent-hdpe" ], - "description": "Hello, we created a lamp to explore translucent HDPE properties. By sorting shredded transparent and colored bottle caps, you achieve a liquid-like effect. The key is in your color choice, allowing for diverse visual outcomes.", + "description": "Hello, we created a little lamp in order to explore the properties of translucent HDPE. By carefully sorting shredded samples of transparent and coloured bottle cups you can achieve the \"liquid like\" effect you can appreciate in the picture. It's all about the colours you choose, you can come up with many different tasty plastic juices. ", "difficulty_level": "Medium", "id": "iJ9nuzOkkfFVXYyhJE0V", "total_downloads": 22, @@ -390,9 +390,5 @@ "urls": [] } }, - "content": "Hello, we created a lamp to explore translucent HDPE properties. By sorting shredded transparent and colored bottle caps, you achieve a liquid-like effect. The key is in your color choice, allowing for diverse visual outcomes.\n\n\nUser Location: Donostia / San Sebastian, Spain\n\nCollect HDPE bottle caps from a local source. To achieve a liquid-light effect for your lamp, use both transparent and colored caps. Adding a small amount of shredded colored plastic will tint and alter the final appearance. Sort and shred the plastic carefully.\n\nIn the initial image, the light bulb is positioned between two discs. Begin by creating the discs using injection molding. The mold has a thin wall thickness of 3 millimeters (0.12 inches). Refer to the Academy for melting temperatures for HDPE. Experiment with various color combinations. Each disc requires less than 30 grams (1.06 ounces) of material, so adding 3 or 4 grams (0.11 or 0.14 ounces) of color will suffice to tint the plastic.\n\nThe clamp for the discs is constructed from wood. We utilized a laser cutting machine at a local makerspace to produce the wooden components. The wood is 0.39 inches (1 cm) thick, and the CAD drawings are included in the download package. The clamp is tailored to accommodate a specific lamp holder and bulb, but you may adjust the design for lamp holders available at local stores. The wooden pieces were later spray-painted.\n\nA small square indentation must be cut from the disc to allow it to attach to the wooden part securely. This feature enables you to swap out discs without using adhesive, facilitating various lighting effects.\n\nAssembling the lamp should be quick, as all parts are designed to fit securely. If the structure is unstable, apply glue for reinforcement. You can place it on a bedside table, a desk, or hang it. We would appreciate seeing your completed work.", - "keywords": "HDPE lamp, translucent lamp design, DIY HDPE lamp, colored bottle caps lamp, injection molding lamp, laser cut lamp components, liquid-light effect lamp, customized lamp assembly, makerspace lamp project, eco-friendly lamp design", - "resources": "To create the HDPE lamp described, you'll need the following tools, software, hardware, and materials:\n\n### Tools\n\n- HDPE bottle cap collection (local sources in Donostia/San Sebastian)\n- Plastic shredder for processing caps\n- Color sorting system for translucent/colored caps\n- Injection molding equipment with 3mm-thick molds\n- Spray paint for wooden components\n\n### Software\n\n- CAD software to modify wooden clamp designs (drawings included)\n\n### Hardware\n\n- Laser cutting machine (available at local makerspaces)\n- Injection molding system for disc production\n- Standard lamp holder and bulb assembly\n\n### Materials\n\n- Transparent/colored HDPE bottle caps\n- Shredded colored plastic (3-4g per disc for tinting)\n- 1 cm thick wood sheets for clamp construction\n- Spray-paintable wooden components\n- Adhesive (optional reinforcement)\n\nThe lamp's modular design allows customization using locally available materials and makerspace equipment. Total material per disc stays under 30g HDPE with <5g color additives[1][2][4][5].", - "references": "**References**\n\nNo external reference links were provided in the text to process.", - "brief": "Explore the beauty of translucent HDPE lamps using sorted colored bottle caps for unique lighting effects. Experiment with designs and share your creations." + "content": "Hello, we created a little lamp in order to explore the properties of translucent HDPE. By carefully sorting shredded samples of transparent and coloured bottle cups you can achieve the \"liquid like\" effect you can appreciate in the picture. It's all about the colours you choose, you can come up with many different tasty plastic juices. \n\n\nUser Location: Donostia / San Sebastian, Spain\n\nGrab some HDPE bottle cups from your local collection point. In order to create the liquid-light effect you see on the lamp you will need transparent cups and coloured cups. Choose according to your preferences. Sprinkling a little bit of shredded coloured plastic into your mixture will already dye and obscure the final result. Be patient and sort peacefully, enjoy the therapeutic exercise of shredding plastic. \n\nAs you can appreciate in the first picture, the light bulb is standing in between two discs. So, now its time to create the discs by injection moulding. Notice that we have used a mould with a thin wall thickness, 3 millimeters. On the other hand, check out the melting temperatures for HDPE at the Academy. Try different colour combinations. Less than 30 grams are needed per disc, so adding 3 or 4 grams of colour will already \"obscure\" your plastic juice. \n\nThe clamp that holds both discs is made out from wood. We were able to use a laser cut machine at a public makerspace in our city to create a set of wooden pieces. The wood used for this design is 1 cm thick and you can find the CAD drawing at the download package. The clamp has been designed to hold a specific lamp holder and bulb. Feel free to adjust the drawing for the lamp holder you can find at your local electricity supplies storehouse. Later on, the wooden pieces were spray painted. \nOn the other hand, notice that a little square shaped indentation needs to be cut from the disc so that it pins and assembles to the wooden part. This way you can exchange different discs without glueing them to the wooden part. The aim is to create different lighting effects. \n\nAssembling the lamp should not take you much time, theoretically everything should fit tightly. If your final result is too shaky, consider using some glue to reinforce your structure. \nNow you can place it at your bedsite table or on your working desk, even hanging it is an option. Let us know if you decide to make one, we'd love to see your results. " } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/create-a-notebook-with-sugar-cane-paper-and-pp/README.md b/howtos/create-a-notebook-with-sugar-cane-paper-and-pp/README.md index 75d79783c..b3a95976c 100644 --- a/howtos/create-a-notebook-with-sugar-cane-paper-and-pp/README.md +++ b/howtos/create-a-notebook-with-sugar-cane-paper-and-pp/README.md @@ -1,47 +1,47 @@ --- title: Create a Notebook with sugar cane paper and PP slug: create-a-notebook-with-sugar-cane-paper-and-pp -description: ## How to Create a Notebook with Sugar Cane Paper and Custom Sheets +description: How to create a notebook with sugar cane paper and precious plastic sheets with a personalized touch -### Materials Needed: -- A 2mm (0.08 inches) sheet +You will need: +- A 2mm sheet - Sugar cane paper -- Jigsaw -- Marking tool -- Hole saw -- Rivets -- 10mm (0.39 inches) elastic -- 5/32 inch (4mm) drill -- Press +- A Jig saw +- Something to mark on the sheet +- A hole saw +- Some rivets +- 10mm elastic +- A 5/32" drill +- A press tags: ["PP","HDPE","sheetpress","collection"] category: Products difficulty: Medium time: < 5 hours -keywords: sugar cane paper, custom notebook, DIY notebook, sugarcane products, crafting materials, notebook assembly, handmade notebook, DIY stationery, eco-friendly notebook, Bogota crafts +keywords: location: Bogota, Colombia --- # Create a Notebook with sugar cane paper and PP ![Create a Notebook with sugar cane paper and PP](Copia_de_Post-06.jpg) -## How to Create a Notebook with Sugar Cane Paper and Custom Sheets +How to create a notebook with sugar cane paper and precious plastic sheets with a personalized touch -### Materials Needed: -- A 2mm (0.08 inches) sheet +You will need: +- A 2mm sheet - Sugar cane paper -- Jigsaw -- Marking tool -- Hole saw -- Rivets -- 10mm (0.39 inches) elastic -- 5/32 inch (4mm) drill -- Press +- A Jig saw +- Something to mark on the sheet +- A hole saw +- Some rivets +- 10mm elastic +- A 5/32" drill +- A press User Location: Bogota, Colombia ## Steps ### Step 1: Create marks on your sheet -Choose a 2mm (0.08 inches) sheet; for this example, we use sheets sized 520mm x 520mm (20.47 inches x 20.47 inches). +First, you will need to choose or make a 2mm sheet; in our case, we will be using 520mm x 520mm x 2mm sheets that we made. -Mark the sheet with the desired dimensions for the notebook covers using a marker or cutter. For repeated production, consider creating a template. +Once you have chosen the sheet that you are going to use, go ahead and place marks on it with the desired size of the covers of your notebook (you can use a marker or a cutter); as a pro tip, if you are going to make a lot of them as we are going to do, you can make a template to make your life easier. ![_MG_2032.JPG](./_MG_2032.JPG) @@ -54,7 +54,7 @@ Mark the sheet with the desired dimensions for the notebook covers using a marke ### Step 2: Cut the sheet -Use a jigsaw with a metal-cutting blade to cut along the marked lines. Wear protective glasses and gloves for safety. Secure the sheet on the cutting table to prevent movement. +With the jigsaw, start cutting through the marks you previously made; we like to use a blade suited for cutting metal; it leaves the best results. Also, be aware of your safety, so always use protective glasses and gloves, and press the sheet into the cutting table, so nothing moves. ![_MG_2054.JPG](./_MG_2054.JPG) @@ -64,14 +64,14 @@ Use a jigsaw with a metal-cutting blade to cut along the marked lines. Wear prot ### Step 3: Clean the covers -To clean the edges of the covers, use a small knife for a smooth finish. +Using a small knife, you can clean the edges of the covers for a smooth result. ![_MG_2073.JPG](./_MG_2073.JPG) ### Step 4: Open holes -To prepare the notebook cover, drill holes for the elastic band using a 5/35" (3.57 mm) bit in the back cover and a 2" (50.8 mm) hole saw in the front. You may stack multiple covers for drilling, but use the hole saw individually to easily remove the cut-out. Always secure the covers and wear gloves and safety glasses for protection. +Since our notebook has an elastic band and an illustration, we need to open holes in the cover. Use a 5/35" drill for the elastic band in the back cover, and a 2" hole saw for the front one. You can pile up a bunch of covers for the drill, but with the hole saw, it is best to do it one by one, so the remaining circle is easier to take off the hole saw. As a safety measure, always press the covers and wear gloves and glasses. ![_MG_2063.JPG](./_MG_2063.JPG) @@ -84,11 +84,10 @@ To prepare the notebook cover, drill holes for the elastic band using a 5/35" (3 ### Step 5: Put the elastic on back cover -### Instructions for Attaching Elastic with Rivets +Use the rivets to put the elastic on the back cover. The rivet we are using has 2 parts, so place the elastic and then each of the rivet parts on them. -Use rivets to secure the elastic to the back cover. A rivet consists of two parts; position the elastic between these parts before fastening. +If you don't have a riveting machine, you can always use a hammer to close the rivet. -If a riveting machine is unavailable, a hammer can be used to close the rivet. ![_MG_2068.JPG](./_MG_2068.JPG) @@ -98,25 +97,26 @@ If a riveting machine is unavailable, a hammer can be used to close the rivet. ### Step 6: Cut the paper to desired size -If creating a specific size notebook, cut the paper to the desired dimensions; here, we use letter-size (8.5" x 11") paper to make half-letter (5.5" x 8.5"). +If you are making a particular size notebook, cut the paper into the proper size; in our case, we use letter-size paper to make half-letter paper ![_MG_2075.jpg](./_MG_2075.jpg) ### Step 7: Fix everything for assembly -Prepare the covers and sheets for assembly. If a printed sheet is desired, do it now. +Prepare the covers and sheets for assembly; if you want a printed sheet, this is the best time to do it. + +Since we do not have the equipment to ring the notebooks, we use a third party for the process. -As we lack equipment to bind the notebooks, we use an external service for this process. ![_MG_2077.JPG](./_MG_2077.JPG) ### Step 8: And last but not least... -Stamp your products to identify their materials. +Remember to stamp your products so everybody knows what they are made from and we can keep recycling. -Enjoy your new notebook. +Now enjoy your brand new [filtered] notebook!! ![20211130_133011.jpg](./20211130_133011.jpg) @@ -128,37 +128,4 @@ Enjoy your new notebook. ![20211130_150118.jpg](./20211130_150118.jpg) ## Resources -### Tools - -- Jigsaw with metal-cutting blade [1] -- Hole saw (2”/50.8mm) [1] -- Drill with 5/32” (4mm) bit [1] -- Riveting machine or hammer [1] -- Marking tool (marker/cutter) [1] - -### Hardware - -- Press (for drilling/riveting) [1] -- Cutting table [1] -- Safety glasses [1] -- Work gloves [1] -- 2mm metal sheets [1] - -### Software - -- *Not required for this project* -## References -## References - -### Articles - -- [Making a Beautiful Sugarcane Paper - Kozo Studio](https://kozo.studio/blogs/journal/making-a-beautiful-sugarcane-paper) [13] - -### YouTube - -- [Creating an open-source book with Jupyter Book and Jupytext](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jUdXs4OPR84) [3] - -### Open-source Designs - -- [Homemade Recycled Notebook (Instructables)](https://www.instructables.com/Homemade-Recycled-Notebook/) [2] -- [Pocket Notebooks (stitched) (Instructables)](https://www.instructables.com/Pocket-Notebooks-stitched/) [9] \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/create-a-notebook-with-sugar-cane-paper-and-pp/config.json b/howtos/create-a-notebook-with-sugar-cane-paper-and-pp/config.json index 8a8985225..a0f4bed4a 100644 --- a/howtos/create-a-notebook-with-sugar-cane-paper-and-pp/config.json +++ b/howtos/create-a-notebook-with-sugar-cane-paper-and-pp/config.json @@ -14,7 +14,7 @@ "src": "C:\\Users\\zx\\Desktop\\osr\\osr-machines\\howtos\\create-a-notebook-with-sugar-cane-paper-and-pp\\copia_de_post-06.jpg" }, "slug": "create-a-notebook-with-sugar-cane-paper-and-pp", - "description": "## How to Create a Notebook with Sugar Cane Paper and Custom Sheets\n\n### Materials Needed:\n- A 2mm (0.08 inches) sheet\n- Sugar cane paper\n- Jigsaw\n- Marking tool\n- Hole saw\n- Rivets\n- 10mm (0.39 inches) elastic\n- 5/32 inch (4mm) drill\n- Press", + "description": "How to create a notebook with sugar cane paper and precious plastic sheets with a personalized touch\n\nYou will need:\n- A 2mm sheet\n- Sugar cane paper\n- A Jig saw\n- Something to mark on the sheet\n- A hole saw\n- Some rivets\n- 10mm elastic\n- A 5/32\" drill\n- A press", "_modified": "2024-01-28T20:53:08.975Z", "total_downloads": 0, "_created": "2021-12-03T18:11:14.141Z", @@ -52,7 +52,7 @@ "steps": [ { "_animationKey": "unique1", - "text": "Choose a 2mm (0.08 inches) sheet; for this example, we use sheets sized 520mm x 520mm (20.47 inches x 20.47 inches). \n\nMark the sheet with the desired dimensions for the notebook covers using a marker or cutter. For repeated production, consider creating a template.", + "text": "First, you will need to choose or make a 2mm sheet; in our case, we will be using 520mm x 520mm x 2mm sheets that we made.\n\nOnce you have chosen the sheet that you are going to use, go ahead and place marks on it with the desired size of the covers of your notebook (you can use a marker or a cutter); as a pro tip, if you are going to make a lot of them as we are going to do, you can make a template to make your life easier.", "title": "Create marks on your sheet", "images": [ { @@ -95,7 +95,7 @@ }, { "_animationKey": "unique2", - "text": "Use a jigsaw with a metal-cutting blade to cut along the marked lines. Wear protective glasses and gloves for safety. Secure the sheet on the cutting table to prevent movement.", + "text": "With the jigsaw, start cutting through the marks you previously made; we like to use a blade suited for cutting metal; it leaves the best results. Also, be aware of your safety, so always use protective glasses and gloves, and press the sheet into the cutting table, so nothing moves.", "images": [ { "name": "_MG_2054.JPG", @@ -141,7 +141,7 @@ } ], "title": "Clean the covers", - "text": "To clean the edges of the covers, use a small knife for a smooth finish." + "text": "Using a small knife, you can clean the edges of the covers for a smooth result." }, { "images": [ @@ -183,11 +183,11 @@ } ], "_animationKey": "unique7f5fzh", - "text": "To prepare the notebook cover, drill holes for the elastic band using a 5/35\" (3.57 mm) bit in the back cover and a 2\" (50.8 mm) hole saw in the front. You may stack multiple covers for drilling, but use the hole saw individually to easily remove the cut-out. Always secure the covers and wear gloves and safety glasses for protection.", + "text": "Since our notebook has an elastic band and an illustration, we need to open holes in the cover. Use a 5/35\" drill for the elastic band in the back cover, and a 2\" hole saw for the front one. You can pile up a bunch of covers for the drill, but with the hole saw, it is best to do it one by one, so the remaining circle is easier to take off the hole saw. As a safety measure, always press the covers and wear gloves and glasses.", "title": "Open holes" }, { - "text": "### Instructions for Attaching Elastic with Rivets\n\nUse rivets to secure the elastic to the back cover. A rivet consists of two parts; position the elastic between these parts before fastening.\n\nIf a riveting machine is unavailable, a hammer can be used to close the rivet.", + "text": "Use the rivets to put the elastic on the back cover. The rivet we are using has 2 parts, so place the elastic and then each of the rivet parts on them.\n\nIf you don't have a riveting machine, you can always use a hammer to close the rivet.\n", "images": [ { "timeCreated": "2021-12-03T18:11:10.665Z", @@ -219,7 +219,7 @@ }, { "_animationKey": "uniquex3tafj", - "text": "If creating a specific size notebook, cut the paper to the desired dimensions; here, we use letter-size (8.5\" x 11\") paper to make half-letter (5.5\" x 8.5\").", + "text": "If you are making a particular size notebook, cut the paper into the proper size; in our case, we use letter-size paper to make half-letter paper", "images": [ { "timeCreated": "2021-12-03T18:11:11.524Z", @@ -253,7 +253,7 @@ "alt": "_MG_2077.JPG" } ], - "text": "Prepare the covers and sheets for assembly. If a printed sheet is desired, do it now.\n\nAs we lack equipment to bind the notebooks, we use an external service for this process." + "text": "Prepare the covers and sheets for assembly; if you want a printed sheet, this is the best time to do it.\n\nSince we do not have the equipment to ring the notebooks, we use a third party for the process.\n" }, { "images": [ @@ -295,7 +295,7 @@ } ], "title": "And last but not least...", - "text": "Stamp your products to identify their materials.\n\nEnjoy your new notebook.", + "text": "Remember to stamp your products so everybody knows what they are made from and we can keep recycling.\n\nNow enjoy your brand new [filtered] notebook!!", "_animationKey": "uniquer63kp6" } ], @@ -465,9 +465,5 @@ "images": [] } }, - "content": "## How to Create a Notebook with Sugar Cane Paper and Custom Sheets\n\n### Materials Needed:\n- A 2mm (0.08 inches) sheet\n- Sugar cane paper\n- Jigsaw\n- Marking tool\n- Hole saw\n- Rivets\n- 10mm (0.39 inches) elastic\n- 5/32 inch (4mm) drill\n- Press\n\n\nUser Location: Bogota, Colombia\n\nChoose a 2mm (0.08 inches) sheet; for this example, we use sheets sized 520mm x 520mm (20.47 inches x 20.47 inches). \n\nMark the sheet with the desired dimensions for the notebook covers using a marker or cutter. For repeated production, consider creating a template.\n\nUse a jigsaw with a metal-cutting blade to cut along the marked lines. Wear protective glasses and gloves for safety. Secure the sheet on the cutting table to prevent movement.\n\nTo clean the edges of the covers, use a small knife for a smooth finish.\n\nTo prepare the notebook cover, drill holes for the elastic band using a 5/35\" (3.57 mm) bit in the back cover and a 2\" (50.8 mm) hole saw in the front. You may stack multiple covers for drilling, but use the hole saw individually to easily remove the cut-out. Always secure the covers and wear gloves and safety glasses for protection.\n\n### Instructions for Attaching Elastic with Rivets\n\nUse rivets to secure the elastic to the back cover. A rivet consists of two parts; position the elastic between these parts before fastening.\n\nIf a riveting machine is unavailable, a hammer can be used to close the rivet.\n\nIf creating a specific size notebook, cut the paper to the desired dimensions; here, we use letter-size (8.5\" x 11\") paper to make half-letter (5.5\" x 8.5\").\n\nPrepare the covers and sheets for assembly. If a printed sheet is desired, do it now.\n\nAs we lack equipment to bind the notebooks, we use an external service for this process.\n\nStamp your products to identify their materials.\n\nEnjoy your new notebook.", - "keywords": "sugar cane paper, custom notebook, DIY notebook, sugarcane products, crafting materials, notebook assembly, handmade notebook, DIY stationery, eco-friendly notebook, Bogota crafts", - "resources": "### Tools\n\n- Jigsaw with metal-cutting blade [1]\n- Hole saw (2”/50.8mm) [1]\n- Drill with 5/32” (4mm) bit [1]\n- Riveting machine or hammer [1]\n- Marking tool (marker/cutter) [1]\n\n### Hardware\n\n- Press (for drilling/riveting) [1]\n- Cutting table [1]\n- Safety glasses [1]\n- Work gloves [1]\n- 2mm metal sheets [1]\n\n### Software\n\n- *Not required for this project*", - "references": "## References\n\n### Articles\n\n- [Making a Beautiful Sugarcane Paper - Kozo Studio](https://kozo.studio/blogs/journal/making-a-beautiful-sugarcane-paper) [13]\n\n### YouTube\n\n- [Creating an open-source book with Jupyter Book and Jupytext](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jUdXs4OPR84) [3]\n\n### Open-source Designs\n\n- [Homemade Recycled Notebook (Instructables)](https://www.instructables.com/Homemade-Recycled-Notebook/) [2]\n- [Pocket Notebooks (stitched) (Instructables)](https://www.instructables.com/Pocket-Notebooks-stitched/) [9]", - "brief": "Learn to craft a custom notebook using sugar cane paper with this easy guide. Gather materials, follow step-by-step instructions, and enjoy your creation!" + "content": "How to create a notebook with sugar cane paper and precious plastic sheets with a personalized touch\n\nYou will need:\n- A 2mm sheet\n- Sugar cane paper\n- A Jig saw\n- Something to mark on the sheet\n- A hole saw\n- Some rivets\n- 10mm elastic\n- A 5/32\" drill\n- A press\n\n\nUser Location: Bogota, Colombia\n\nFirst, you will need to choose or make a 2mm sheet; in our case, we will be using 520mm x 520mm x 2mm sheets that we made.\n\nOnce you have chosen the sheet that you are going to use, go ahead and place marks on it with the desired size of the covers of your notebook (you can use a marker or a cutter); as a pro tip, if you are going to make a lot of them as we are going to do, you can make a template to make your life easier.\n\nWith the jigsaw, start cutting through the marks you previously made; we like to use a blade suited for cutting metal; it leaves the best results. Also, be aware of your safety, so always use protective glasses and gloves, and press the sheet into the cutting table, so nothing moves.\n\nUsing a small knife, you can clean the edges of the covers for a smooth result.\n\nSince our notebook has an elastic band and an illustration, we need to open holes in the cover. Use a 5/35\" drill for the elastic band in the back cover, and a 2\" hole saw for the front one. You can pile up a bunch of covers for the drill, but with the hole saw, it is best to do it one by one, so the remaining circle is easier to take off the hole saw. As a safety measure, always press the covers and wear gloves and glasses.\n\nUse the rivets to put the elastic on the back cover. The rivet we are using has 2 parts, so place the elastic and then each of the rivet parts on them.\n\nIf you don't have a riveting machine, you can always use a hammer to close the rivet.\n\n\nIf you are making a particular size notebook, cut the paper into the proper size; in our case, we use letter-size paper to make half-letter paper\n\nPrepare the covers and sheets for assembly; if you want a printed sheet, this is the best time to do it.\n\nSince we do not have the equipment to ring the notebooks, we use a third party for the process.\n\n\nRemember to stamp your products so everybody knows what they are made from and we can keep recycling.\n\nNow enjoy your brand new [filtered] notebook!!" } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/create-a-perforated-board/README.md b/howtos/create-a-perforated-board/README.md index 5dd8dcde5..e97cf435c 100644 --- a/howtos/create-a-perforated-board/README.md +++ b/howtos/create-a-perforated-board/README.md @@ -1,28 +1,29 @@ --- title: Create a Perforated Board slug: create-a-perforated-board -description: This method employs a heat press machine and an aluminum mold to create a plastic board, which is subsequently shaped into a perforated board. +description: This method uses a heat press machine and an aluminum mold to make plastic board, which is then formed into perforated board. tags: ["PP","sheetpress","mould"] category: Products difficulty: Medium time: < 1 day -keywords: Heat press machine, aluminum mold, plastic board, perforated board, aluminum frame, milled plastic, silicone spray, pegboard preparation, drill guide holes, orbit sander +keywords: location: Tokyo, Japan --- # Create a Perforated Board ![Create a Perforated Board](pegboard-1839e6fcddf.png) -This method employs a heat press machine and an aluminum mold to create a plastic board, which is subsequently shaped into a perforated board. +This method uses a heat press machine and an aluminum mold to make plastic board, which is then formed into perforated board. User Location: Tokyo, Japan ## Steps ### Step 1: Prepare heat press machine and aluminum frame -### Materials -- **Heat Press Machine:** A commercially available heat press machine for iron-on printing with a 350x350 mm (13.78x13.78 in) heat surface. -- **Aluminum Frame:** Ordered from an online supplier, the frame is 230x300x4 mm (9.06x11.81x0.16 in) with a 5 mm (0.2 in) corner radius. It is sandwiched between two 2 mm (0.08 in) aluminum sheets and pressed. +Heat press machine...commercially available heat press machine for iron-on printing. The one I am using has a 350x350(mm) heat surface. +Aluminum frame...I found a supplier online that sells and processes aluminum sheet metal and placed an order. 230x300x4(mm) rectangular frame with 5mm radius on the corners. This aluminum frame is sandwiched between two aluminum sheets (2 mm) and pressed. + +Steps 1 and 2 are based on "Zero Plastic Australia's Sheet Machine" by Zero Plastic Australia. Please refer to this one too! + + -### Reference -- Steps 1 and 2 are adapted from "Zero Plastic Australia's Sheet Machine" guide. ![PXL_20220813_032907931-1839e74b577.jpg](./PXL_20220813_032907931-1839e74b577.jpg) @@ -33,14 +34,14 @@ User Location: Tokyo, Japan ### Step 2: Create a plastic sheet Aluminum sheet - Teflon sheet - Milled plastic & aluminum frame - Teflon sheet - Aluminum sheet +The materials are set in the heat press machine in a sandwich condition like the above. At this time, it is recommended to spray the aluminum frame thoroughly with silicone spray. For this aluminum frame, roughly 350-400g of milled plastic is required. -Arrange the materials in a heat press in the specified order. Apply silicone spray thoroughly to the aluminum frame. Approximately 12-14 oz (350-400 g) of milled plastic is needed for this frame. +After setting the materials and closing the heat press, heat the machine at 180°C for 30-40 minutes. During this time, keep increasing the pressure of the heat press to the maximum. Apply heat and pressure evenly, rotating and flipping the whole aluminum sandwich sheet during the process. -Close the heat press and set it to 356°F (180°C) for 30-40 minutes. Gradually increase the pressure to the maximum, ensuring even application by rotating and flipping the sandwich structure. +Then turn off the press and allow the plastic to cool and harden in place while keeping the pressure applied. After at least four hours, and ideally overnight, the plastic should be nice and flat. -After heating, turn off the press, keeping the pressure applied as the plastic cools and solidifies. Allow it to set for at least four hours, ideally overnight, to ensure flatness. +Once the plastic has cooled and hardened, peel it off from the frame, cut off the unnecessary parts with scissors, and your plastic sheet is ready! -Once cool and solidified, remove the plastic sheet from the frame. Trim any excess with scissors, and the sheet is ready for use. ![PXL_20220730_100113628-1839e75fa4f.jpg](./PXL_20220730_100113628-1839e75fa4f.jpg) @@ -50,11 +51,12 @@ Once cool and solidified, remove the plastic sheet from the frame. Trim any exce ### Step 3: Drill Holes -Prepare a pegboard for guides. I used a pegboard measuring 11.8 x 7.9 inches (30 x 20 cm) with 5 mm holes spaced 25 mm apart. +Prepare a peg board for guides. I used "Design Board 30cm x 20cm (natural x white): 110 yen" from Daiso. The size of the holes is 5 mm and the hole spacing is 25 mm. -Stack the pegboard on the plastic board and secure them with clamps. Drill 0.08-inch (2 mm) guide holes centered on the perforations. +Stack the peg board on the plastic board and fix it with clamps to prevent it from moving. Aim at the center of the perforated board and drill guide holes 2 mm in diameter. + +After the guide holes are drilled, remove the perforated board and fix only the plastic board to the workbench. Replace the drill with one of 5 mm diameter and drill the actual holes as per the guide holes. -Once the guide holes are complete, remove the pegboard. Secure the plastic board to the workbench and use a 0.2-inch (5 mm) drill bit to create the final holes based on the guides. ![PXL_20220826_132812600-1839e7461fa.jpg](./PXL_20220826_132812600-1839e7461fa.jpg) @@ -64,63 +66,14 @@ Once the guide holes are complete, remove the pegboard. Secure the plastic board ### Step 4: Finish with Sanding -After drilling all holes, remove any remaining plastic debris. Smooth the surface with an orbit sander. Sand up to about #2000 grit to achieve a bright color. +After all holes are drilled, remove the remaining plastic debris around the holes. If there are too many burrs on the surface, use an orbit sander to finish the surface. If you apply up to about #2000, the color of the plastic will be bright. -The plastic pegboard is now complete. +And voila! The plastic pegboard is now complete! -For questions, please contact pebbles.recycleplastic@gmail.com. +If you have any question regarding this How-to, please contact pebbles.recycleplastic@​gmail.com ;-) ![PXL_20220911_133119936.PORTRAIT (1)-1839e739c87.jpg](./PXL_20220911_133119936.PORTRAIT_1-1839e739c87.jpg) ## Resources -### Tools - -- Electric drill with 2mm and 5mm bits -- Orbit sander -- Clamps -- Scissors -- Sandpaper (up to #2000 grit) - -### Hardware - -- Heat press machine (350x350 mm plate) ~~[Reference](https://www.zeroplastic.com.au/)~~ -- Aluminum frame (230x300x4 mm with 5mm radius) -- Aluminum sheets (2mm thickness) -- Teflon sheets -- Pegboard (30x20 cm, 5mm holes spaced 25mm apart) - -### Materials - -- Milled plastic (350–400 g per sheet) -- Silicone spray -- Plastic debris removal tools -- Safety gear (implied for heat/drilling) - -*Links reflect adaptions from "Zero Plastic Australia's Sheet Machine" guide mentioned in the tutorial. Specific suppliers aren’t listed in the source text.* -## References -### Articles - -- [Bending and forming PLEXIGLAS®](https://www.plexiglas.de/en/service/processing/bending-and-forming-plexiglas) -- [Compression molding](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Compression_molding) -- [Guide to Manufacturing Processes for Plastics](https://formlabs.com/blog/guide-to-manufacturing-processes-for-plastics/) - -### Books - -- [The Homebrew Industrial Revolution](https://apw.org.nz/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/HomeBrewRevolution_Carson.pdf) - -### Papers - -- [JRC-2020-TECHNOLOGY.pdf](https://elib.psu.by/bitstream/123456789/25333/1/JRC-2020-TECHNOLOGY.pdf) -- [Thermoforming Manual](https://www.spartech.com/media/documents/SPA221062-Thermoforming-Manual.pdf) - -### YouTube - -- [Melting plastic waste into sheets](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0VibXPtIcxc) - -### Opensource Designs - -- Zero Plastic Australia's Sheet Machine -- [filtered] Injection Machine -- [$50 Plastic Shredder](https://www.instructables.com/50-Plastic-Shredder-Grinder-Recycler/) -- Create a Peg Board \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/create-a-perforated-board/config.json b/howtos/create-a-perforated-board/config.json index cd37b16ca..53fcd55fe 100644 --- a/howtos/create-a-perforated-board/config.json +++ b/howtos/create-a-perforated-board/config.json @@ -46,7 +46,7 @@ "total_downloads": 0, "steps": [ { - "text": "### Materials\n- **Heat Press Machine:** A commercially available heat press machine for iron-on printing with a 350x350 mm (13.78x13.78 in) heat surface.\n- **Aluminum Frame:** Ordered from an online supplier, the frame is 230x300x4 mm (9.06x11.81x0.16 in) with a 5 mm (0.2 in) corner radius. It is sandwiched between two 2 mm (0.08 in) aluminum sheets and pressed.\n\n### Reference\n- Steps 1 and 2 are adapted from \"Zero Plastic Australia's Sheet Machine\" guide.", + "text": "Heat press machine...commercially available heat press machine for iron-on printing. The one I am using has a 350x350(mm) heat surface.\nAluminum frame...I found a supplier online that sells and processes aluminum sheet metal and placed an order. 230x300x4(mm) rectangular frame with 5mm radius on the corners. This aluminum frame is sandwiched between two aluminum sheets (2 mm) and pressed.\n\nSteps 1 and 2 are based on \"Zero Plastic Australia's Sheet Machine\" by Zero Plastic Australia. Please refer to this one too!\n\n\n", "title": "Prepare heat press machine and aluminum frame", "_animationKey": "unique1", "images": [ @@ -78,7 +78,7 @@ }, { "_animationKey": "unique2", - "text": "Aluminum sheet - Teflon sheet - Milled plastic & aluminum frame - Teflon sheet - Aluminum sheet\n\nArrange the materials in a heat press in the specified order. Apply silicone spray thoroughly to the aluminum frame. Approximately 12-14 oz (350-400 g) of milled plastic is needed for this frame.\n\nClose the heat press and set it to 356°F (180°C) for 30-40 minutes. Gradually increase the pressure to the maximum, ensuring even application by rotating and flipping the sandwich structure.\n\nAfter heating, turn off the press, keeping the pressure applied as the plastic cools and solidifies. Allow it to set for at least four hours, ideally overnight, to ensure flatness.\n\nOnce cool and solidified, remove the plastic sheet from the frame. Trim any excess with scissors, and the sheet is ready for use.", + "text": "Aluminum sheet - Teflon sheet - Milled plastic & aluminum frame - Teflon sheet - Aluminum sheet\nThe materials are set in the heat press machine in a sandwich condition like the above. At this time, it is recommended to spray the aluminum frame thoroughly with silicone spray. For this aluminum frame, roughly 350-400g of milled plastic is required.\n\nAfter setting the materials and closing the heat press, heat the machine at 180°C for 30-40 minutes. During this time, keep increasing the pressure of the heat press to the maximum. Apply heat and pressure evenly, rotating and flipping the whole aluminum sandwich sheet during the process.\n\nThen turn off the press and allow the plastic to cool and harden in place while keeping the pressure applied. After at least four hours, and ideally overnight, the plastic should be nice and flat.\n\nOnce the plastic has cooled and hardened, peel it off from the frame, cut off the unnecessary parts with scissors, and your plastic sheet is ready!\n", "images": [ { "timeCreated": "2022-10-03T15:28:27.848Z", @@ -109,7 +109,7 @@ }, { "_animationKey": "unique3", - "text": "Prepare a pegboard for guides. I used a pegboard measuring 11.8 x 7.9 inches (30 x 20 cm) with 5 mm holes spaced 25 mm apart.\n\nStack the pegboard on the plastic board and secure them with clamps. Drill 0.08-inch (2 mm) guide holes centered on the perforations.\n\nOnce the guide holes are complete, remove the pegboard. Secure the plastic board to the workbench and use a 0.2-inch (5 mm) drill bit to create the final holes based on the guides.", + "text": "Prepare a peg board for guides. I used \"Design Board 30cm x 20cm (natural x white): 110 yen\" from Daiso. The size of the holes is 5 mm and the hole spacing is 25 mm.\n\nStack the peg board on the plastic board and fix it with clamps to prevent it from moving. Aim at the center of the perforated board and drill guide holes 2 mm in diameter.\n\nAfter the guide holes are drilled, remove the perforated board and fix only the plastic board to the workbench. Replace the drill with one of 5 mm diameter and drill the actual holes as per the guide holes.\n", "title": "Drill Holes", "images": [ { @@ -139,7 +139,7 @@ ] }, { - "text": "After drilling all holes, remove any remaining plastic debris. Smooth the surface with an orbit sander. Sand up to about #2000 grit to achieve a bright color. \n\nThe plastic pegboard is now complete.\n\nFor questions, please contact pebbles.recycleplastic@gmail.com.", + "text": "After all holes are drilled, remove the remaining plastic debris around the holes. If there are too many burrs on the surface, use an orbit sander to finish the surface. If you apply up to about #2000, the color of the plastic will be bright.\n\nAnd voila! The plastic pegboard is now complete!\n\nIf you have any question regarding this How-to, please contact pebbles.recycleplastic@​gmail.com ;-)", "images": [ { "fullPath": "uploads/howtos/i1BB6VnFR7uQesmvLQNw/PXL_20220911_133119936.PORTRAIT (1)-1839e739c87.jpg", @@ -172,7 +172,7 @@ "fileLink": "", "files": [], "_contentModifiedTimestamp": "2023-06-22T14:52:59.389Z", - "description": "This method employs a heat press machine and an aluminum mold to create a plastic board, which is subsequently shaped into a perforated board.", + "description": "This method uses a heat press machine and an aluminum mold to make plastic board, which is then formed into perforated board.", "tags": [ "PP", "sheetpress", @@ -326,9 +326,5 @@ "images": [] } }, - "content": "This method employs a heat press machine and an aluminum mold to create a plastic board, which is subsequently shaped into a perforated board.\n\n\nUser Location: Tokyo, Japan\n\n### Materials\n- **Heat Press Machine:** A commercially available heat press machine for iron-on printing with a 350x350 mm (13.78x13.78 in) heat surface.\n- **Aluminum Frame:** Ordered from an online supplier, the frame is 230x300x4 mm (9.06x11.81x0.16 in) with a 5 mm (0.2 in) corner radius. It is sandwiched between two 2 mm (0.08 in) aluminum sheets and pressed.\n\n### Reference\n- Steps 1 and 2 are adapted from \"Zero Plastic Australia's Sheet Machine\" guide.\n\nAluminum sheet - Teflon sheet - Milled plastic & aluminum frame - Teflon sheet - Aluminum sheet\n\nArrange the materials in a heat press in the specified order. Apply silicone spray thoroughly to the aluminum frame. Approximately 12-14 oz (350-400 g) of milled plastic is needed for this frame.\n\nClose the heat press and set it to 356°F (180°C) for 30-40 minutes. Gradually increase the pressure to the maximum, ensuring even application by rotating and flipping the sandwich structure.\n\nAfter heating, turn off the press, keeping the pressure applied as the plastic cools and solidifies. Allow it to set for at least four hours, ideally overnight, to ensure flatness.\n\nOnce cool and solidified, remove the plastic sheet from the frame. Trim any excess with scissors, and the sheet is ready for use.\n\nPrepare a pegboard for guides. I used a pegboard measuring 11.8 x 7.9 inches (30 x 20 cm) with 5 mm holes spaced 25 mm apart.\n\nStack the pegboard on the plastic board and secure them with clamps. Drill 0.08-inch (2 mm) guide holes centered on the perforations.\n\nOnce the guide holes are complete, remove the pegboard. Secure the plastic board to the workbench and use a 0.2-inch (5 mm) drill bit to create the final holes based on the guides.\n\nAfter drilling all holes, remove any remaining plastic debris. Smooth the surface with an orbit sander. Sand up to about #2000 grit to achieve a bright color. \n\nThe plastic pegboard is now complete.\n\nFor questions, please contact pebbles.recycleplastic@gmail.com.", - "keywords": "Heat press machine, aluminum mold, plastic board, perforated board, aluminum frame, milled plastic, silicone spray, pegboard preparation, drill guide holes, orbit sander", - "resources": "### Tools\n\n- Electric drill with 2mm and 5mm bits\n- Orbit sander\n- Clamps\n- Scissors\n- Sandpaper (up to #2000 grit)\n\n### Hardware\n\n- Heat press machine (350x350 mm plate) ~~[Reference](https://www.zeroplastic.com.au/)~~\n- Aluminum frame (230x300x4 mm with 5mm radius)\n- Aluminum sheets (2mm thickness)\n- Teflon sheets\n- Pegboard (30x20 cm, 5mm holes spaced 25mm apart)\n\n### Materials\n\n- Milled plastic (350–400 g per sheet)\n- Silicone spray\n- Plastic debris removal tools\n- Safety gear (implied for heat/drilling)\n\n*Links reflect adaptions from \"Zero Plastic Australia's Sheet Machine\" guide mentioned in the tutorial. Specific suppliers aren’t listed in the source text.*", - "references": "### Articles\n\n- [Bending and forming PLEXIGLAS®](https://www.plexiglas.de/en/service/processing/bending-and-forming-plexiglas)\n- [Compression molding](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Compression_molding)\n- [Guide to Manufacturing Processes for Plastics](https://formlabs.com/blog/guide-to-manufacturing-processes-for-plastics/)\n\n### Books\n\n- [The Homebrew Industrial Revolution](https://apw.org.nz/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/HomeBrewRevolution_Carson.pdf)\n\n### Papers\n\n- [JRC-2020-TECHNOLOGY.pdf](https://elib.psu.by/bitstream/123456789/25333/1/JRC-2020-TECHNOLOGY.pdf)\n- [Thermoforming Manual](https://www.spartech.com/media/documents/SPA221062-Thermoforming-Manual.pdf)\n\n### YouTube\n\n- [Melting plastic waste into sheets](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0VibXPtIcxc)\n\n### Opensource Designs\n\n- Zero Plastic Australia's Sheet Machine\n- [filtered] Injection Machine\n- [$50 Plastic Shredder](https://www.instructables.com/50-Plastic-Shredder-Grinder-Recycler/)\n- Create a Peg Board", - "brief": "Create a plastic pegboard using a heat press and aluminum mold. Detailed steps guide you from shaping to drilling and finishing for a durable result." + "content": "This method uses a heat press machine and an aluminum mold to make plastic board, which is then formed into perforated board.\n\n\nUser Location: Tokyo, Japan\n\nHeat press machine...commercially available heat press machine for iron-on printing. The one I am using has a 350x350(mm) heat surface.\nAluminum frame...I found a supplier online that sells and processes aluminum sheet metal and placed an order. 230x300x4(mm) rectangular frame with 5mm radius on the corners. This aluminum frame is sandwiched between two aluminum sheets (2 mm) and pressed.\n\nSteps 1 and 2 are based on \"Zero Plastic Australia's Sheet Machine\" by Zero Plastic Australia. Please refer to this one too!\n\n\n\n\nAluminum sheet - Teflon sheet - Milled plastic & aluminum frame - Teflon sheet - Aluminum sheet\nThe materials are set in the heat press machine in a sandwich condition like the above. At this time, it is recommended to spray the aluminum frame thoroughly with silicone spray. For this aluminum frame, roughly 350-400g of milled plastic is required.\n\nAfter setting the materials and closing the heat press, heat the machine at 180°C for 30-40 minutes. During this time, keep increasing the pressure of the heat press to the maximum. Apply heat and pressure evenly, rotating and flipping the whole aluminum sandwich sheet during the process.\n\nThen turn off the press and allow the plastic to cool and harden in place while keeping the pressure applied. After at least four hours, and ideally overnight, the plastic should be nice and flat.\n\nOnce the plastic has cooled and hardened, peel it off from the frame, cut off the unnecessary parts with scissors, and your plastic sheet is ready!\n\n\nPrepare a peg board for guides. I used \"Design Board 30cm x 20cm (natural x white): 110 yen\" from Daiso. The size of the holes is 5 mm and the hole spacing is 25 mm.\n\nStack the peg board on the plastic board and fix it with clamps to prevent it from moving. Aim at the center of the perforated board and drill guide holes 2 mm in diameter.\n\nAfter the guide holes are drilled, remove the perforated board and fix only the plastic board to the workbench. Replace the drill with one of 5 mm diameter and drill the actual holes as per the guide holes.\n\n\nAfter all holes are drilled, remove the remaining plastic debris around the holes. If there are too many burrs on the surface, use an orbit sander to finish the surface. If you apply up to about #2000, the color of the plastic will be bright.\n\nAnd voila! The plastic pegboard is now complete!\n\nIf you have any question regarding this How-to, please contact pebbles.recycleplastic@​gmail.com ;-)" } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/create-a-shut-off-for-the-beam-mould/README.md b/howtos/create-a-shut-off-for-the-beam-mould/README.md index a34e0f3c1..c92d07b1c 100644 --- a/howtos/create-a-shut-off-for-the-beam-mould/README.md +++ b/howtos/create-a-shut-off-for-the-beam-mould/README.md @@ -1,68 +1,35 @@ --- title: Create a shut off for the beam mould slug: create-a-shut-off-for-the-beam-mould -description: ### How to Create a Shut-Off for the Beam Mold - -This guide explains how to create a shut-off mechanism for a beam mold, ensuring no plastic leakage after detachment from the extrusion machine. - -**Materials Needed:** - -- Measurements: Ensure compatibility with both metric and imperial units. - -**Instructions:** - -1. **Design the Shut-Off:** - - Develop a closure system that securely seals the mold opening. -2. **Gather Necessary Tools:** - - Utilize appropriate tools for precise fittings. -3. **Integrate Mechanism:** - - Attach the shut-off to the mold ensuring a snug fit. -4. **Test the Seal:** - - Conduct trials to verify the efficacy of the seal in preventing leaks. - -Follow these steps for an effective solution. +description: Making a shut off for the beam mould to prevent plastic flowing out after disconnecting from the extrusion machine. tags: ["untagged","extrusion","mould"] category: Moulds difficulty: Medium time: < 1 hour -keywords: shut-off mechanism, beam mold creation, plastic leakage prevention, extrusion machine tips, mold closure design, precision tool use, sealing mold openings, extrusion cooling solutions, overpressure control, waste reduction in molding +keywords: location: Tampaksiring, Indonesia --- # Create a shut off for the beam mould ![Create a shut off for the beam mould](shut_off_plate_6-186ea6dc570.jpeg) -### How to Create a Shut-Off for the Beam Mold - -This guide explains how to create a shut-off mechanism for a beam mold, ensuring no plastic leakage after detachment from the extrusion machine. - -**Materials Needed:** - -- Measurements: Ensure compatibility with both metric and imperial units. - -**Instructions:** - -1. **Design the Shut-Off:** - - Develop a closure system that securely seals the mold opening. -2. **Gather Necessary Tools:** - - Utilize appropriate tools for precise fittings. -3. **Integrate Mechanism:** - - Attach the shut-off to the mold ensuring a snug fit. -4. **Test the Seal:** - - Conduct trials to verify the efficacy of the seal in preventing leaks. - -Follow these steps for an effective solution. +Making a shut off for the beam mould to prevent plastic flowing out after disconnecting from the extrusion machine. User Location: Tampaksiring, Indonesia ## Steps ### Step 1: The problem of plastic flowing out of the mould -When using the extrusion machine, we aimed to control the plastic outflow once the mold is filled and detached from the nozzle. Despite a nearby cooling gutter allowing the mold to be submerged within 1 to 2 seconds, the mold's overpressure causes rapid plastic discharge. This results in additional waste and requires time and effort to clean. Our solution is as follows: +When working with the extrusion machine and fine tuning the process we wanted to address the outflow of plastic when the mould has filled and you unscrew it from the nozzle of the extrusion machine. We have a cooling gutter close by so the mould goes within a second or 2 in the water. Still the overpressure in the mould makes the molten plastic flow out quickly. +Its extra waste and it takes time and effort to remove it. We came up with this: ![shut off plate 0-186ea7103d7.jpeg](./shut_off_plate_0-186ea7103d7.jpeg) ### Step 2: Make a third plate -To close the beam mold from the extrusion machine while it remains connected, use an additional steel plate with matching dimensions and hole pattern to the other two plates. Depending on your hole pattern, devise a strip that can be slid over the injection hole when cut out. We used an arrow shape to establish a fixed stopping point. +To be able to close of the beam mould from the extrusion machine while still connected to it, make use of an extra steel plate. This plate has the same dimensions and hole pattern as the 2 other plates. +Depending of your hole pattern, think of the best way to create a strip that, if cut out, can slide over the injection hole. We made an arrow shape to create a fixed stopping point. + + + ![shut off plate 1-186ea75757b.jpeg](./shut_off_plate_1-186ea75757b.jpeg) @@ -72,7 +39,7 @@ To close the beam mold from the extrusion machine while it remains connected, us ### Step 3: Make a smart hole pattern -After cutting out the slide strip, attach the two symmetrical parts to the nozzle plate and tack weld them (refer to image 1). Create a center hole for the arrow slide aligned with the nozzle plate hole as a reference point. We found it effective to extend 1.57 inches (4 cm) from the center point to drill two holes: one 0.16 inches (4 mm) near the arrowhead and another 0.79 inches (20 mm) further. In the open position, the 0.79-inch hole aligns with the nozzle hole (refer to image 3). In this alignment, drill the 0.16-inch hole completely through the nozzle plate, and use a pin to secure the arrow slide, ensuring alignment with the large holes. +After you cut out the slide strip you can attach the 2 symmetrical parts to your nozzle plate and tag weld them to it (see pic 1). Give the arrow slide a center hole thats inline with the nozzle plate hole. This is your reference point. For us it worked best to go 4cm each way of the center point to create two holes. One 4mm close to the arrow head and the other 20mm on the other side. When the arrow slide is in its open position the 20mm and the nozzle hole are inline (See pic 3). In this position you can drill the 4mm hole all the way trough the nozzle plate. Use any kind of pin to secure the arrow slide in place so the big holes are aligned. ![shut off plate 3-186ea7ac88a.jpeg](./shut_off_plate_3-186ea7ac88a.jpeg) @@ -85,9 +52,9 @@ After cutting out the slide strip, attach the two symmetrical parts to the nozzl ### Step 4: Ready to rumble! -### Assembly and Extrusion Process - -Drill an additional 0.157-inch (4mm) hole through the beam mold plate to ensure the security pin passes through all three plates when open. Begin extrusion by sealing the end of the mold, leaving only a 0.197-inch (5mm) pressure relief hole as a fill indicator. Continue extruding slightly longer to apply pressure to the beam. Once extrusion ceases, remove the pin and use a hammer to close the arrow slide. Unscrew the mold carefully, allowing it to cool appropriately. After cooling, detach the nozzle plate. The beam should slide out easily, or lightly tap the back if needed. This process produces minimal waste and prepares quickly for subsequent beams. +Now its time to put everything together. One extra 4mm hole needs to be drilled trough your beam mould plate. This way the security pin goes trough all 3 plates when in the open position. Time to start extruding! We have the end of the mould welded shut with only a 5mm pressure releave hole. This is also the indicator when the mould has filled. We let the extruder run a little bit after that to put some pressure on the beam. After stopping the extrusion machine, pull the pin and tap the arrow slide shut with a hammer. Now you can unscrew the mould relaxed and gently let in cool in whatever way work best for you. +After cooling down, remove the nozzle plate. The beam should slide out or its needs a few taps at the back! +Minimal waste and ready fast for the next beam. ![shut off plate 6-186ea87c156.jpeg](./shut_off_plate_6-186ea87c156.jpeg) @@ -96,50 +63,4 @@ Drill an additional 0.157-inch (4mm) hole through the beam mold plate to ensure ![shut off plate 7-186ea87d048.jpeg](./shut_off_plate_7-186ea87d048.jpeg) ## Resources -To address the extrusion mold shut-off challenge, the solution involves precise mechanical modifications and specialized tools. Below is a concise breakdown of required components: - -### Tools - -- **Welding equipment** (for tack-welding steel plate components) -- **Drill** with 4mm and 20mm drill bits (for hole creation) -- **Hammer** (to slide/close the arrow-shaped mechanism) -- **Measuring tools** (calipers/rulers for metric/imperial alignment) -- **Pressure testing setup** (to verify seal integrity) - -### Hardware - -- **Steel plates** (with matching dimensions/hole patterns to existing mold plates) -- **Alignment pins** (4mm and 20mm diameters for positioning) -- **Security pin** (4mm diameter, spans all plates when open) -- **Screws/bolts** (for nozzle plate attachment) -- **Nozzle plate** (modified with welded arrow-slide components) - -### Software - -- **CAD software** (for designing shut-off geometry and hole alignment) - -These components enable the creation of a reusable, leak-resistant mold system. The process emphasizes precision in drilling (±0.5mm tolerance) and robust welding to withstand extrusion pressures exceeding 50 bar[1][3]. -## References -## References - -### Articles - -- [The Basic Principles of Shut Off and Kiss Off in Mold Design](https://firstmold.com/guides/shut-off-and-kiss-off/) -- ~~[Extrusion Basics: Mastering Material Changes and Shutdowns](https://www.plasticstoday.com/extrusion-pipe-profile/extrusion-basics-mastering-material-changes-and-shutdowns)~~ -- [Shut-Offs - RTP Company](https://www.rtpcompany.com/technical-info/molding-guidelines/tpe-molding-guidelines/shut-offs/) -- [DIY Injection Molding: How to Mold Plastic Parts In-House](https://formlabs.com/blog/diy-injection-molding/) -- [How to Incorporate Shut Offs in Injection Molding](https://www.protolabs.com/resources/design-tips/incorporating-shut-offs-in-injection-molding-design/) -- [Design And Functionality Of Mold Shut Off](https://prototool.com/mold-shut-off/) - -### Papers - -- [IMECE2019-11069 - IU Indianapolis ScholarWorks](https://scholarworks.indianapolis.iu.edu/bitstreams/4a7aec92-dd98-4d12-ad76-d508b578c4a4/download) - -### YouTube - -- [Plastic Extrusion - Operation, Shutdown and Maintenance Procedures](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rf5DQR5qXxU) -- [STL to 3D Printed Injection Mold | Fusion 360 Mesh](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KisgYeYaagI) - -### Opensource Designs - -- [Step by Step Tutorial on Injection Mold Design - FreeCAD Forum](https://forum.freecad.org/viewtopic.php?style=1\&t=62057) \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/create-a-shut-off-for-the-beam-mould/config.json b/howtos/create-a-shut-off-for-the-beam-mould/config.json index 6c6e09e18..277d01c67 100644 --- a/howtos/create-a-shut-off-for-the-beam-mould/config.json +++ b/howtos/create-a-shut-off-for-the-beam-mould/config.json @@ -24,7 +24,7 @@ }, "id": "epowVLmB7B7XqKEjzpGp", "files": [], - "description": "### How to Create a Shut-Off for the Beam Mold\n\nThis guide explains how to create a shut-off mechanism for a beam mold, ensuring no plastic leakage after detachment from the extrusion machine. \n\n**Materials Needed:**\n\n- Measurements: Ensure compatibility with both metric and imperial units.\n\n**Instructions:**\n\n1. **Design the Shut-Off:** \n - Develop a closure system that securely seals the mold opening.\n2. **Gather Necessary Tools:**\n - Utilize appropriate tools for precise fittings.\n3. **Integrate Mechanism:**\n - Attach the shut-off to the mold ensuring a snug fit.\n4. **Test the Seal:**\n - Conduct trials to verify the efficacy of the seal in preventing leaks.\n \nFollow these steps for an effective solution.", + "description": "Making a shut off for the beam mould to prevent plastic flowing out after disconnecting from the extrusion machine. ", "_id": "epowVLmB7B7XqKEjzpGp", "_deleted": false, "cover_image": { @@ -55,13 +55,13 @@ } ], "_animationKey": "unique1", - "text": "When using the extrusion machine, we aimed to control the plastic outflow once the mold is filled and detached from the nozzle. Despite a nearby cooling gutter allowing the mold to be submerged within 1 to 2 seconds, the mold's overpressure causes rapid plastic discharge. This results in additional waste and requires time and effort to clean. Our solution is as follows:", + "text": "When working with the extrusion machine and fine tuning the process we wanted to address the outflow of plastic when the mould has filled and you unscrew it from the nozzle of the extrusion machine. We have a cooling gutter close by so the mould goes within a second or 2 in the water. Still the overpressure in the mould makes the molten plastic flow out quickly. \nIts extra waste and it takes time and effort to remove it. We came up with this:", "title": "The problem of plastic flowing out of the mould" }, { "_animationKey": "unique2", "title": "Make a third plate", - "text": "To close the beam mold from the extrusion machine while it remains connected, use an additional steel plate with matching dimensions and hole pattern to the other two plates. Depending on your hole pattern, devise a strip that can be slid over the injection hole when cut out. We used an arrow shape to establish a fixed stopping point.", + "text": "To be able to close of the beam mould from the extrusion machine while still connected to it, make use of an extra steel plate. This plate has the same dimensions and hole pattern as the 2 other plates.\nDepending of your hole pattern, think of the best way to create a strip that, if cut out, can slide over the injection hole. We made an arrow shape to create a fixed stopping point.\n\n\n", "images": [ { "timeCreated": "2023-03-16T13:21:43.906Z", @@ -90,7 +90,7 @@ ] }, { - "text": "After cutting out the slide strip, attach the two symmetrical parts to the nozzle plate and tack weld them (refer to image 1). Create a center hole for the arrow slide aligned with the nozzle plate hole as a reference point. We found it effective to extend 1.57 inches (4 cm) from the center point to drill two holes: one 0.16 inches (4 mm) near the arrowhead and another 0.79 inches (20 mm) further. In the open position, the 0.79-inch hole aligns with the nozzle hole (refer to image 3). In this alignment, drill the 0.16-inch hole completely through the nozzle plate, and use a pin to secure the arrow slide, ensuring alignment with the large holes.", + "text": "After you cut out the slide strip you can attach the 2 symmetrical parts to your nozzle plate and tag weld them to it (see pic 1). Give the arrow slide a center hole thats inline with the nozzle plate hole. This is your reference point. For us it worked best to go 4cm each way of the center point to create two holes. One 4mm close to the arrow head and the other 20mm on the other side. When the arrow slide is in its open position the 20mm and the nozzle hole are inline (See pic 3). In this position you can drill the 4mm hole all the way trough the nozzle plate. Use any kind of pin to secure the arrow slide in place so the big holes are aligned. ", "_animationKey": "unique3", "title": "Make a smart hole pattern", "images": [ @@ -161,7 +161,7 @@ "alt": "shut off plate 7-186ea87d048.jpeg" } ], - "text": "### Assembly and Extrusion Process\n\nDrill an additional 0.157-inch (4mm) hole through the beam mold plate to ensure the security pin passes through all three plates when open. Begin extrusion by sealing the end of the mold, leaving only a 0.197-inch (5mm) pressure relief hole as a fill indicator. Continue extruding slightly longer to apply pressure to the beam. Once extrusion ceases, remove the pin and use a hammer to close the arrow slide. Unscrew the mold carefully, allowing it to cool appropriately. After cooling, detach the nozzle plate. The beam should slide out easily, or lightly tap the back if needed. This process produces minimal waste and prepares quickly for subsequent beams." + "text": "Now its time to put everything together. One extra 4mm hole needs to be drilled trough your beam mould plate. This way the security pin goes trough all 3 plates when in the open position. Time to start extruding! We have the end of the mould welded shut with only a 5mm pressure releave hole. This is also the indicator when the mould has filled. We let the extruder run a little bit after that to put some pressure on the beam. After stopping the extrusion machine, pull the pin and tap the arrow slide shut with a hammer. Now you can unscrew the mould relaxed and gently let in cool in whatever way work best for you. \nAfter cooling down, remove the nozzle plate. The beam should slide out or its needs a few taps at the back!\nMinimal waste and ready fast for the next beam." } ], "votedUsefulBy": [ @@ -331,9 +331,5 @@ "images": [] } }, - "content": "### How to Create a Shut-Off for the Beam Mold\n\nThis guide explains how to create a shut-off mechanism for a beam mold, ensuring no plastic leakage after detachment from the extrusion machine. \n\n**Materials Needed:**\n\n- Measurements: Ensure compatibility with both metric and imperial units.\n\n**Instructions:**\n\n1. **Design the Shut-Off:** \n - Develop a closure system that securely seals the mold opening.\n2. **Gather Necessary Tools:**\n - Utilize appropriate tools for precise fittings.\n3. **Integrate Mechanism:**\n - Attach the shut-off to the mold ensuring a snug fit.\n4. **Test the Seal:**\n - Conduct trials to verify the efficacy of the seal in preventing leaks.\n \nFollow these steps for an effective solution.\n\n\nUser Location: Tampaksiring, Indonesia\n\nWhen using the extrusion machine, we aimed to control the plastic outflow once the mold is filled and detached from the nozzle. Despite a nearby cooling gutter allowing the mold to be submerged within 1 to 2 seconds, the mold's overpressure causes rapid plastic discharge. This results in additional waste and requires time and effort to clean. Our solution is as follows:\n\nTo close the beam mold from the extrusion machine while it remains connected, use an additional steel plate with matching dimensions and hole pattern to the other two plates. Depending on your hole pattern, devise a strip that can be slid over the injection hole when cut out. We used an arrow shape to establish a fixed stopping point.\n\nAfter cutting out the slide strip, attach the two symmetrical parts to the nozzle plate and tack weld them (refer to image 1). Create a center hole for the arrow slide aligned with the nozzle plate hole as a reference point. We found it effective to extend 1.57 inches (4 cm) from the center point to drill two holes: one 0.16 inches (4 mm) near the arrowhead and another 0.79 inches (20 mm) further. In the open position, the 0.79-inch hole aligns with the nozzle hole (refer to image 3). In this alignment, drill the 0.16-inch hole completely through the nozzle plate, and use a pin to secure the arrow slide, ensuring alignment with the large holes.\n\n### Assembly and Extrusion Process\n\nDrill an additional 0.157-inch (4mm) hole through the beam mold plate to ensure the security pin passes through all three plates when open. Begin extrusion by sealing the end of the mold, leaving only a 0.197-inch (5mm) pressure relief hole as a fill indicator. Continue extruding slightly longer to apply pressure to the beam. Once extrusion ceases, remove the pin and use a hammer to close the arrow slide. Unscrew the mold carefully, allowing it to cool appropriately. After cooling, detach the nozzle plate. The beam should slide out easily, or lightly tap the back if needed. This process produces minimal waste and prepares quickly for subsequent beams.", - "keywords": "shut-off mechanism, beam mold creation, plastic leakage prevention, extrusion machine tips, mold closure design, precision tool use, sealing mold openings, extrusion cooling solutions, overpressure control, waste reduction in molding", - "resources": "To address the extrusion mold shut-off challenge, the solution involves precise mechanical modifications and specialized tools. Below is a concise breakdown of required components:\n\n### Tools\n\n- **Welding equipment** (for tack-welding steel plate components)\n- **Drill** with 4mm and 20mm drill bits (for hole creation)\n- **Hammer** (to slide/close the arrow-shaped mechanism)\n- **Measuring tools** (calipers/rulers for metric/imperial alignment)\n- **Pressure testing setup** (to verify seal integrity)\n\n### Hardware\n\n- **Steel plates** (with matching dimensions/hole patterns to existing mold plates)\n- **Alignment pins** (4mm and 20mm diameters for positioning)\n- **Security pin** (4mm diameter, spans all plates when open)\n- **Screws/bolts** (for nozzle plate attachment)\n- **Nozzle plate** (modified with welded arrow-slide components)\n\n### Software\n\n- **CAD software** (for designing shut-off geometry and hole alignment)\n\nThese components enable the creation of a reusable, leak-resistant mold system. The process emphasizes precision in drilling (±0.5mm tolerance) and robust welding to withstand extrusion pressures exceeding 50 bar[1][3].", - "references": "## References\n\n### Articles\n\n- [The Basic Principles of Shut Off and Kiss Off in Mold Design](https://firstmold.com/guides/shut-off-and-kiss-off/)\n- ~~[Extrusion Basics: Mastering Material Changes and Shutdowns](https://www.plasticstoday.com/extrusion-pipe-profile/extrusion-basics-mastering-material-changes-and-shutdowns)~~\n- [Shut-Offs - RTP Company](https://www.rtpcompany.com/technical-info/molding-guidelines/tpe-molding-guidelines/shut-offs/)\n- [DIY Injection Molding: How to Mold Plastic Parts In-House](https://formlabs.com/blog/diy-injection-molding/)\n- [How to Incorporate Shut Offs in Injection Molding](https://www.protolabs.com/resources/design-tips/incorporating-shut-offs-in-injection-molding-design/)\n- [Design And Functionality Of Mold Shut Off](https://prototool.com/mold-shut-off/)\n\n### Papers\n\n- [IMECE2019-11069 - IU Indianapolis ScholarWorks](https://scholarworks.indianapolis.iu.edu/bitstreams/4a7aec92-dd98-4d12-ad76-d508b578c4a4/download)\n\n### YouTube\n\n- [Plastic Extrusion - Operation, Shutdown and Maintenance Procedures](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rf5DQR5qXxU)\n- [STL to 3D Printed Injection Mold | Fusion 360 Mesh](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KisgYeYaagI)\n\n### Opensource Designs\n\n- [Step by Step Tutorial on Injection Mold Design - FreeCAD Forum](https://forum.freecad.org/viewtopic.php?style=1\\&t=62057)", - "brief": "Create a shut-off for a beam mold to prevent plastic leakage after detachment, using precise tools and tested mechanisms for effective extrusion control." + "content": "Making a shut off for the beam mould to prevent plastic flowing out after disconnecting from the extrusion machine. \n\n\nUser Location: Tampaksiring, Indonesia\n\nWhen working with the extrusion machine and fine tuning the process we wanted to address the outflow of plastic when the mould has filled and you unscrew it from the nozzle of the extrusion machine. We have a cooling gutter close by so the mould goes within a second or 2 in the water. Still the overpressure in the mould makes the molten plastic flow out quickly. \nIts extra waste and it takes time and effort to remove it. We came up with this:\n\nTo be able to close of the beam mould from the extrusion machine while still connected to it, make use of an extra steel plate. This plate has the same dimensions and hole pattern as the 2 other plates.\nDepending of your hole pattern, think of the best way to create a strip that, if cut out, can slide over the injection hole. We made an arrow shape to create a fixed stopping point.\n\n\n\n\nAfter you cut out the slide strip you can attach the 2 symmetrical parts to your nozzle plate and tag weld them to it (see pic 1). Give the arrow slide a center hole thats inline with the nozzle plate hole. This is your reference point. For us it worked best to go 4cm each way of the center point to create two holes. One 4mm close to the arrow head and the other 20mm on the other side. When the arrow slide is in its open position the 20mm and the nozzle hole are inline (See pic 3). In this position you can drill the 4mm hole all the way trough the nozzle plate. Use any kind of pin to secure the arrow slide in place so the big holes are aligned. \n\nNow its time to put everything together. One extra 4mm hole needs to be drilled trough your beam mould plate. This way the security pin goes trough all 3 plates when in the open position. Time to start extruding! We have the end of the mould welded shut with only a 5mm pressure releave hole. This is also the indicator when the mould has filled. We let the extruder run a little bit after that to put some pressure on the beam. After stopping the extrusion machine, pull the pin and tap the arrow slide shut with a hammer. Now you can unscrew the mould relaxed and gently let in cool in whatever way work best for you. \nAfter cooling down, remove the nozzle plate. The beam should slide out or its needs a few taps at the back!\nMinimal waste and ready fast for the next beam." } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/create-a-sports-medal-with-clear-acrilic-inlay/README.md b/howtos/create-a-sports-medal-with-clear-acrilic-inlay/README.md index df099a66b..1bf0e49ab 100644 --- a/howtos/create-a-sports-medal-with-clear-acrilic-inlay/README.md +++ b/howtos/create-a-sports-medal-with-clear-acrilic-inlay/README.md @@ -1,37 +1,37 @@ --- title: Create a Sports Medal with Clear Acrilic Inlay slug: create-a-sports-medal-with-clear-acrilic-inlay -description: Create injection-molded medals with engraved acrylic inlays. Use polypropylene (PP) and clear acrylic pieces 0.12 inches (3mm) thick. +description: Create stylish injection molded medals with engraved acrylic inlays. In our case we used PP for the plastic and 3mm clear acrylic off-cuts. tags: ["product","PP","HDPE","injection"] category: Products difficulty: Medium time: < 5 hours -keywords: injection-molded medals, engraved acrylic inlays, polypropylene medals, acrylic logo inlay, medal manufacturing process, injection molding Kenya, custom medals design, Adobe Illustrator medal design, polypropylene flakes, acrylic pocket mold +keywords: location: Kiambu, Kenya --- # Create a Sports Medal with Clear Acrilic Inlay ![Create a Sports Medal with Clear Acrilic Inlay](IMG-6680-1881f058815.jpg) -Create injection-molded medals with engraved acrylic inlays. Use polypropylene (PP) and clear acrylic pieces 0.12 inches (3mm) thick. +Create stylish injection molded medals with engraved acrylic inlays. In our case we used PP for the plastic and 3mm clear acrylic off-cuts. User Location: Kiambu, Kenya ## Steps ### Step 1: Create mold designs using 2D CAD program -We used Adobe Illustrator to create three designs: one for the acrylic inlay, one for the logo outline, and one for the pocket to hold the inlay. Include a small extension indicator on both the pocket and acrylic inlay to ensure the correct orientation of the logo within the mold. +We used Adobe Illustrator. Create a design for the acrylic inlay, one for the logo outline, and one for the pocket into which we will place the acrylic inlay. Make sure to include a small extension indicator (see photo) to your pocket and acrilic inlay to help the correct orientation of the logo within the mold ![Screenshot 2023-05-15 at 1.59.04 PM-1881f1079f2.png](./Screenshot_2023-05-15_at_1.59.04_PM-1881f1079f2.png) ### Step 2: Stack the molds in the correct order. -Place the engraved acrylic logo inlay into the pocket mold, then position the medal outline mold on top. Insert this stack between the steel molds connected to the injection machine. +Place the engraved acrilic logo inlay into the pocket mold then place the medal outline mold on top. Put this stack between the top and bottom steel molds which connect to injection machine. ![PXL_20230515_110331627-1881f16e0f2.jpg](./PXL_20230515_110331627-1881f16e0f2.jpg) ### Step 3: Inject, attach ring and ribbon -Inject the plastic into the mold. For this example, we used gray polypropylene flakes for the medal. Remove the molded product, drill a hole, and attach a ring and a ribbon. Complete! +Inject the plactic into the mold. In our case we used gray pp flakes for the silver medal. Remove the injected product. Drill a hole, attach a ring and a ribbon of choice. Done! ![PXL_20220824_104003681-1881f0c7938.jpg](./PXL_20220824_104003681-1881f0c7938.jpg) @@ -40,51 +40,4 @@ Inject the plastic into the mold. For this example, we used gray polypropylene f ![PXL_20230515_083954273-1881f10dab7.jpg](./PXL_20230515_083954273-1881f10dab7.jpg) ## Resources -To create injection-molded medals with acrylic inlays, the following tools, software, and materials are required based on the described process: - -### Software - -- Adobe Illustrator (for designing acrylic inlay, logo outline, and pocket mold) - -### Hardware - -- Injection molding machine -- Steel molds (for pocket, outline, and stack assembly) - -### Materials - -- Polypropylene (PP) flakes (gray) -- Clear acrylic sheets (3mm thickness) -- Metal rings (for attaching ribbons) -- Ribbons - -### Tools - -- Laser engraving machine (for acrylic inlay engraving) -- Drilling tool (for creating attachment hole) -## References -## References - -### Articles - -- [Acrylic Injection Molding Process: The Complete Guide](https://baiwemolding.com/acrylic-injection-molding-process/) -- Create a Sports Medal with Clear Acrilic Inlay -- [Acrylic(PMMA) Injection Molding: Process and Design Considerations](https://autoprotoway.com/acrylic-injection-molding/) -- [Plastic Part Design for Economical Injection Molding – Part III](https://pd3.4spe.org/plastic-part-design-for-economical-injection-molding-part-iii/) -- [Acrylic Injection Molding: The Ultimate Guide To PMMA](https://prototool.com/acrylic-injection-molding/) -- [A Complete Overview Of Polypropylene Injection Molding](https://prototool.com/polypropylene-injection-molding/) -- [A Step by Step Guide to Injection Molding](https://sybridge.com/injection-molding-guide/) -- [Acrylic Injection Molding: How to Mold PMMA Injection Parts?](https://xcmachining.com/acrylic-injection-molding/) - -### Patents - -- [US2586978A - Inlay for molded plastic articles](https://patents.google.com/patent/US2586978A/en) -- [CN103660127A - Injection molding method of glass-inlaid mold and ...](https://patents.google.com/patent/CN103660127A/en) - -### Opensource Designs - -- [DIY Injection Molding: How to Mold Plastic Parts In-House](https://formlabs.com/blog/diy-injection-molding/) - -### Company Pages - -- [Custom Online Acrylic Molding Service by Xometry](https://www.xometry.com/capabilities/injection-molding-service/acrylic-molding/) \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/create-a-sports-medal-with-clear-acrilic-inlay/config.json b/howtos/create-a-sports-medal-with-clear-acrilic-inlay/config.json index e4ba1e32f..248ae63fa 100644 --- a/howtos/create-a-sports-medal-with-clear-acrilic-inlay/config.json +++ b/howtos/create-a-sports-medal-with-clear-acrilic-inlay/config.json @@ -42,7 +42,7 @@ "_id": "AFtVZGYiyHHrAbXzzAu4", "steps": [ { - "text": "We used Adobe Illustrator to create three designs: one for the acrylic inlay, one for the logo outline, and one for the pocket to hold the inlay. Include a small extension indicator on both the pocket and acrylic inlay to ensure the correct orientation of the logo within the mold.", + "text": "We used Adobe Illustrator. Create a design for the acrylic inlay, one for the logo outline, and one for the pocket into which we will place the acrylic inlay. Make sure to include a small extension indicator (see photo) to your pocket and acrilic inlay to help the correct orientation of the logo within the mold", "title": "Create mold designs using 2D CAD program", "images": [ { @@ -75,13 +75,13 @@ "alt": "PXL_20230515_110331627-1881f16e0f2.jpg" } ], - "text": "Place the engraved acrylic logo inlay into the pocket mold, then position the medal outline mold on top. Insert this stack between the steel molds connected to the injection machine.", + "text": "Place the engraved acrilic logo inlay into the pocket mold then place the medal outline mold on top. Put this stack between the top and bottom steel molds which connect to injection machine.", "title": "Stack the molds in the correct order.", "_animationKey": "unique2" }, { "title": "Inject, attach ring and ribbon", - "text": "Inject the plastic into the mold. For this example, we used gray polypropylene flakes for the medal. Remove the molded product, drill a hole, and attach a ring and a ribbon. Complete!", + "text": "Inject the plactic into the mold. In our case we used gray pp flakes for the silver medal. Remove the injected product. Drill a hole, attach a ring and a ribbon of choice. Done!", "_animationKey": "unique3", "images": [ { @@ -121,7 +121,7 @@ ], "files": [], "total_downloads": 0, - "description": "Create injection-molded medals with engraved acrylic inlays. Use polypropylene (PP) and clear acrylic pieces 0.12 inches (3mm) thick.", + "description": "Create stylish injection molded medals with engraved acrylic inlays. In our case we used PP for the plastic and 3mm clear acrylic off-cuts. ", "comments": [ { "creatorCountry": "", @@ -307,9 +307,5 @@ "urls": [] } }, - "content": "Create injection-molded medals with engraved acrylic inlays. Use polypropylene (PP) and clear acrylic pieces 0.12 inches (3mm) thick.\n\n\nUser Location: Kiambu, Kenya\n\nWe used Adobe Illustrator to create three designs: one for the acrylic inlay, one for the logo outline, and one for the pocket to hold the inlay. Include a small extension indicator on both the pocket and acrylic inlay to ensure the correct orientation of the logo within the mold.\n\nPlace the engraved acrylic logo inlay into the pocket mold, then position the medal outline mold on top. Insert this stack between the steel molds connected to the injection machine.\n\nInject the plastic into the mold. For this example, we used gray polypropylene flakes for the medal. Remove the molded product, drill a hole, and attach a ring and a ribbon. Complete!", - "keywords": "injection-molded medals, engraved acrylic inlays, polypropylene medals, acrylic logo inlay, medal manufacturing process, injection molding Kenya, custom medals design, Adobe Illustrator medal design, polypropylene flakes, acrylic pocket mold", - "resources": "To create injection-molded medals with acrylic inlays, the following tools, software, and materials are required based on the described process:\n\n### Software\n\n- Adobe Illustrator (for designing acrylic inlay, logo outline, and pocket mold)\n\n### Hardware\n\n- Injection molding machine\n- Steel molds (for pocket, outline, and stack assembly)\n\n### Materials\n\n- Polypropylene (PP) flakes (gray)\n- Clear acrylic sheets (3mm thickness)\n- Metal rings (for attaching ribbons)\n- Ribbons\n\n### Tools\n\n- Laser engraving machine (for acrylic inlay engraving)\n- Drilling tool (for creating attachment hole)", - "references": "## References\n\n### Articles\n\n- [Acrylic Injection Molding Process: The Complete Guide](https://baiwemolding.com/acrylic-injection-molding-process/)\n- Create a Sports Medal with Clear Acrilic Inlay\n- [Acrylic(PMMA) Injection Molding: Process and Design Considerations](https://autoprotoway.com/acrylic-injection-molding/)\n- [Plastic Part Design for Economical Injection Molding – Part III](https://pd3.4spe.org/plastic-part-design-for-economical-injection-molding-part-iii/)\n- [Acrylic Injection Molding: The Ultimate Guide To PMMA](https://prototool.com/acrylic-injection-molding/)\n- [A Complete Overview Of Polypropylene Injection Molding](https://prototool.com/polypropylene-injection-molding/)\n- [A Step by Step Guide to Injection Molding](https://sybridge.com/injection-molding-guide/)\n- [Acrylic Injection Molding: How to Mold PMMA Injection Parts?](https://xcmachining.com/acrylic-injection-molding/)\n\n### Patents\n\n- [US2586978A - Inlay for molded plastic articles](https://patents.google.com/patent/US2586978A/en)\n- [CN103660127A - Injection molding method of glass-inlaid mold and ...](https://patents.google.com/patent/CN103660127A/en)\n\n### Opensource Designs\n\n- [DIY Injection Molding: How to Mold Plastic Parts In-House](https://formlabs.com/blog/diy-injection-molding/)\n\n### Company Pages\n\n- [Custom Online Acrylic Molding Service by Xometry](https://www.xometry.com/capabilities/injection-molding-service/acrylic-molding/)", - "brief": "Create unique injection-molded medals with engraved acrylic inlays using polypropylene and clear acrylic. Precision design ensures perfect orientation for logos." + "content": "Create stylish injection molded medals with engraved acrylic inlays. In our case we used PP for the plastic and 3mm clear acrylic off-cuts. \n\n\nUser Location: Kiambu, Kenya\n\nWe used Adobe Illustrator. Create a design for the acrylic inlay, one for the logo outline, and one for the pocket into which we will place the acrylic inlay. Make sure to include a small extension indicator (see photo) to your pocket and acrilic inlay to help the correct orientation of the logo within the mold\n\nPlace the engraved acrilic logo inlay into the pocket mold then place the medal outline mold on top. Put this stack between the top and bottom steel molds which connect to injection machine.\n\nInject the plactic into the mold. In our case we used gray pp flakes for the silver medal. Remove the injected product. Drill a hole, attach a ring and a ribbon of choice. Done!" } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/creating-beams-out-of-hdpe-plastic-bags/README.md b/howtos/creating-beams-out-of-hdpe-plastic-bags/README.md index d1181ffb6..60936c435 100644 --- a/howtos/creating-beams-out-of-hdpe-plastic-bags/README.md +++ b/howtos/creating-beams-out-of-hdpe-plastic-bags/README.md @@ -1,69 +1,64 @@ --- title: Creating Beams out of HDPE plastic bags slug: creating-beams-out-of-hdpe-plastic-bags -description: # HDPE Plastic Bag Beam Tutorial - -This guide outlines the steps to convert HDPE plastic bags into beams using basic tools, without the need for specialized machinery like shredders or injection machines. If a long clamp is available, additional instructions at the end can help improve beam quality. +description: In this guide, I will walk you through the steps to make HDPE plastic bags into beams. This process is also done without fancy machinery such as a shredder or injection machine. If you have access to a long clamp I recommend following the steps at the bottom to make a better beam. tags: ["compression","injection","melting","HDPE"] category: Guides difficulty: Medium time: < 5 hours -keywords: HDPE plastic beams, plastic recycling tutorial, DIY plastic beam, HDPE bag conversion, plastic molding process, homemade plastic beams, eco-friendly construction, plastic bag recycling, DIY recycling projects, plastic beam tutorial +keywords: location: Indialantic-Melbourne Beach, United States of America (the) --- # Creating Beams out of HDPE plastic bags ![Creating Beams out of HDPE plastic bags](IMG_8333-18bf317a97a.jpg) -# HDPE Plastic Bag Beam Tutorial - -This guide outlines the steps to convert HDPE plastic bags into beams using basic tools, without the need for specialized machinery like shredders or injection machines. If a long clamp is available, additional instructions at the end can help improve beam quality. +In this guide, I will walk you through the steps to make HDPE plastic bags into beams. This process is also done without fancy machinery such as a shredder or injection machine. If you have access to a long clamp I recommend following the steps at the bottom to make a better beam. User Location: Indialantic-Melbourne Beach, United States of America (the) ## Steps ### Step 1: Making bags into denser plastic for melting. -In this guide, we will outline the process to prepare plastic bags. - -Materials Required: -- Textile iron or panini press -- Wax paper -- HDPE plastic bags -- A gas mask for protection +In this step, I will walk you through the steps to prepare your plastic bags. +Materials Needed: +• Textile Iron or panini press +• Wax Paper +• HDPE Plastic Bags +• Preferably a carbon activator gas mask. Steps: -1. Fold a single bag in half lengthwise. +Step 1: Take a single bag and fold it in half long ways. -2. Roll the bag tightly so it remains thin, as it will shrink considerably. +Step 2: Role the bag as best you can so it’s thin enough to fit into the beam later on. +Note: The bag will shrink considerably, so don’t spend too much time folding it. -3. Place wax paper beneath and above the folded bag. +Step 3: Put wax paper under and above the folded bag. -4. Pass the iron over it 2-3 times with minimal pressure for less than 10 seconds per side. If using a panini press, simply press it. +Step 4: Do 2-3 quick passes with the iron while applying minimal pressure. This should be less than 10 seconds for each side. If you uses a panini press just press down. -5. Flip the bag and repeat. +Step 5: Flip and repeat -6. Allow the semi-firm bag to cool under a heavy object to prevent curling, easing insertion into the mold later. +Step 6: Let your semi-firm plastic bag cool under a heavy object so it’s unable to curl up, this will make it easier to push into the mold later. -Note: A standard-size bag will occupy approximately 0.4 inches (1 cm) in a 1-inch by 1-inch (2.54 cm by 2.54 cm) beam. Ensure sufficient bags are processed before proceeding. +Note: A single standard-size bag fills about 0.4 inches in a 1-inch by 1-inch beam so ensure you have a considerable amount of bags processed before the next step. ### Step 2: Creating your mold/beam. -Your beam/mold requires a quick-release mechanism for easy removal before the plastic cools and obstructs access to the bottom. This guide outlines the necessary steps. +Your beam/mold will need a quick-release mechanism so you can remove it before your plastic cools overtop preventing access to the bottom. In this step, I will show the steps needed to accomplish this. -### Materials Needed -- Metal grinder -- Hot rolled steel beam -- Small metal scrap for use as a slider and mold bottom -- Eye protection +Materials needed. +• Metal grinder +• Preferably a hot rolled steel beam. +• A small metal scrape to be used as a slider and bottom of your mold. +• Eye protection +Steps: -### Steps +Step 1: Measure 1/16th of an inch on one side of the beam and draw a marking for your cut. If your beam is aluminum or extremely thin you may want to consider increasing this distance but beware further in you go harder it will be to remove your plastic beam. -**Step 1:** Measure and mark 1/16 inch (or 1.6 mm) from one side of the beam for cutting. If the beam is aluminum or very thin, consider increasing this distance, but note that deeper cuts make plastic removal more difficult. +Step 2: Flip the beam around and repeat step 1. -**Step 2:** Repeat the marking process on the opposite side of the beam. +Step 3: Use the metal grinder to cut the slots on both sides so that the scrap metal can slide through. Ensure your cuts align with each other, if not your slider may not fit. -**Step 3:** Utilize the metal grinder to make slots on both sides, ensuring they align for the metal scrap to slide through. Misaligned cuts may prevent proper fitting. - -**Step 4:** Select and cut a scrap metal piece to fit tightly with minimal gaps. +Step 4: Choose a scrap metal piece that can be cut to size and fit accordingly to leave a limited number of gaps and provide a tight fit. ![IMG_8278-18bc4c7716c.jpg](./IMG_8278-18bc4c7716c.jpg) @@ -73,134 +68,84 @@ Your beam/mold requires a quick-release mechanism for easy removal before the pl ### Step 3: Melting plastic into a Beam using a clamp. Part 1 -### Beam Formation Method +This method is considerably easier than the manual method and will give you a much denser beam. I highly suggest this method if you have a 5+ foot clamp. -#### Materials Required: - -- Outdoor fire pit or an equivalent heat source capable of maintaining temperatures above 482°F (250°C) -- Carbon activator gas mask -- Mold: Hot-rolled steel tube is recommended, available at hardware stores for approximately $25 -- Heat-resistant gloves -- Pushing stick: Use solid wood or metal matching the beam's inner dimensions -- Fire-making materials, such as kindling -- Pliers -- Metal clamp, approximately 5 feet - -This method is more efficient than manual techniques and produces a denser beam. A 5-foot clamp is beneficial for this process. +Materials Needed: +• Outdoor fire pit or an alternate heat source that can reach constant temperatures above 250 Celsius. +• Carbon activator gas mask +• Mold – Out of my three mold attempts the hot rolled steel tube worked the best. Local hardware stores carry these for about 25 USD. +• Heat resistance gloves +• Pushing stick – Some sort of solid wood or metal with the same inner dimensions as your beam. +• Fire-making materials, lighter wood, etc. +• Pliers +• +-5 foot metal clamp ### Step 4: Melting plastic into a Beam using a clamp. Part 2 -### Steps +Steps +Step 1: Insert metal peace at the bottom of the mold and ensure it's secure but removable with pliers. This is your quick-release mechanism to open the bottom up for removal later. -**Step 1:** Insert a metal piece at the bottom of the mold. Ensure it is secure yet removable with pliers, serving as a quick-release mechanism for later removal. +Step 2: Load a few plastic bags into the mold and compress them with the push stick before starting a fire, I recommend adding more bags using the clamp technique than the manual technique because of the difficulty of adding bags later. -**Step 2:** Load a few plastic bags into the mold and compress them with a push stick before igniting a fire. It is advisable to use a clamp technique for adding more bags due to the difficulty of doing so manually later. - -**Step 3:** Build a consistently burning fire. Keep wood nearby to maintain the fire for at least 30 minutes if needed. +Step 3: Create a fire that can consistently burn; have wood near to stock the fire for at least 30 minutes if problems arise. ### Step 5: Melting plastic into a Beam using a clamp. Part 3 -Step 4: Position the beam over the fire and allow it to heat. +Step 4: Hold the beam over the fire without the push stick in and wait for it to heat up. -Step 5: Once sufficiently heated, insert and secure the push stick in the clamp. +Step 5: After you have given the plastic enough time to heat up push in the push stick and secure it in the clamp. -Step 6: Tighten the clamp to compress the beam, repeating as necessary to solidify it. +Step 6: Tighten the clamp to compress the beam. This process will have to be repeated multiple times to make your beam solid. -Note: Depending on your clamp type, you may need to adjust it by sliding the stationary side closer for additional compression length. +Note: You may have reset your clamp depending on the type your using todo so slide the stationary side closer to give more compression length. -Note: If desired, add more plastic bags after the initial compression to achieve the preferred length, though it is advisable not to exceed 10 inches (25 cm) for ease of removal. +Note: If needed your able to add more plastic bags after the first compression and continue doing so to get your desired length. I don't recommend any length over 10 inches because it will get increasing more difficult to remove. ### Step 6: Removing the beam with the clamp technique -### Beam Removal Process +With this method, you should be able to remove the beam directly after formation and before it cools, either with force or by using the clamp without the stopper at the bottom. -1. **Remove Stopper:** Use pliers to extract the stopper from the bottom. +Step 1: Remove the stopper from the bottom with a pair of pliers. -2. **Attempt Beam Removal:** Press the push stick in, applying steady pressure. If successful, the process is complete. If not, proceed to the next step. +Step 2: Try and remove the beam by pressing the push stick in while applying consistent force. +Note: If this works congratulations you are done! If not, no worries continue reading. -3. **Reinsert Beam:** Place the beam back into the rig, ensuring the stopper is not in place. +Step 3: Put your beam back into the rig just like before but without the stopper at the bottom. -4. **Tighten Clamp:** While the material remains pliable, tighten the clamp. Once movement is detected, remove the mold from the beam and complete with the push stick. +Step 4: Tighten your clamp in while the plastic is still hot, once it starts to move you can take the mold out of the beam and finish the process with the push stick. ### Step 7: Melting the prepared plastic into a beam. Part 1 -## Beam Creation Tutorial +Now that you have built your mold and prepared your plastic bags we can start melting your bags into beams! The manual method will have much more air pockets than using the newly invented clamping technique, so if you have access to a 5+ foot metal clamp I encourage you to try the process above. -### Introduction -Begin by constructing your mold and preparing the plastic bags. Once ready, proceed with melting the bags into beams. Be aware that manual methods may result in more air pockets compared to the use of metal clamps. If possible, utilize a metal clamp longer than 5 feet (1.5 meters) for improved results. - -### Materials Required -- Outdoor fire pit or an alternative heat source capable of maintaining temperatures above 482°F (250°C). -- Carbon activator gas mask. -- Mold: A hot rolled steel tube is recommended; available at hardware stores for approximately $25. -- Heat-resistant gloves. -- Pushing stick: Made of solid wood or metal, matching the inner dimensions of your beam. -- Materials for fire-starting, such as lighter wood. -- Pliers. +Materials Needed: +• Outdoor fire pit or an alternate heat source that can reach constant temperatures above 250 Celsius. +• Carbon activator gas mask +• Mold – Out of my three mold attempts the hot rolled steel tube worked the best. Local hardware stores carry these for about 25 USD. +• Heat resistance gloves +• Pushing stick – Some sort of solid wood or metal with the same inner dimensions as your beam. +• Fire-making materials, lighter wood, etc. +• Pliers ### Step 8: Melting the prepared plastic into a beam. Part 2 -Step 1: Place the metal piece at the bottom of the mold, securing it for later removal with pliers as a quick-release mechanism. +Step 1: Insert metal piece at the bottom of the mold and ensure it's secure, but removable with pliers. This is your quick-release mechanism to open the bottom for removal later. -Step 2: Insert several plastic bags into the mold and compress them with a push stick before igniting a fire. Ensure the mold is not entirely filled, using no more than eight bags at a time. Compress manually to achieve a solid final product. +Step 2: Load a few plastic bags into the mold and compress with the push stick before starting a fire. +Note: Be careful not to fill the entire mold up, or more than eight bags at once. You will need to hand compress these as best you can to ensure your final product is solid. -Step 3: Maintain a consistent fire, keeping wood nearby to sustain it for at least 30 minutes. +Step 3: Create a fire that can consistently burn; have wood near to stock the fire for at least 30 minutes in case problems arise. ### Step 9: Melting the prepared plastic into a beam. Part 3 -### Step 4 -Hold the mold over the fire, rotating it. Prepare the push stick to compress in a few moments. If the fire is well-built, the material will become malleable in about 30 seconds. +Step 4: Hold mold over the fire and rotate, have your push stick ready to compress in a few moments. If the fire is well built it will only take about 30 seconds to become a malleable substance. -### Step 5 -Use the push stick to compress the material. Apply maximum pressure; the more force exerted, the denser the product will be. +Step 5: Compress the plastic using the push stick. Be sure to apply as much pressure as possible; the more force you can exert the better; this will determine the density of your product. -### Step 6 -Gradually add extra strips of material while compressing it with the push stick between additions until you reach the desired length. Add approximately 1 inch (2.54 cm) extra to account for thermal expansion and removal. +Step 6: Slowly add extra plastic strips while compressing the beam using the push stick between each one until you’re satisfied with the length. +Note: I recommend adding about an inch extra to compensate for thermal expansion and the removal process. -### Step 7 -Once the beam is properly compressed, use pliers to remove the bottom slider acting as a stop. If the beam is stuck, allow it to cool in the mold and later heat it slightly to facilitate removal. +Step 7: Once the beam is properly compressed use pliers to remove the slider acting as a stop at the bottom and attempt to remove it with the push stick. If the beam is stuck I suggest letting it cool in the mold and later heating the beam up just enough to loosen it. ## Resources -### Tools - -- Metal grinder -- Textile iron or panini press -- 5-foot metal clamp -- Pliers -- Push stick (solid wood/metal) - -### Hardware - -- Hot-rolled steel tube (mold) -- Metal scrap (slider/mold bottom) -- Outdoor fire pit (482°F+ capable) -- Fire-making materials (kindling) -- Wax paper - -### Protective Gear - -- Carbon activator gas mask -- Heat-resistant gloves -- Eye protection -## References -## References - -### Articles - -- - -### Books - -- - -### Papers - -- - -### YouTube - -- - -### Opensource Designs - -- \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/creating-beams-out-of-hdpe-plastic-bags/config.json b/howtos/creating-beams-out-of-hdpe-plastic-bags/config.json index a48dc9039..ee48c23c8 100644 --- a/howtos/creating-beams-out-of-hdpe-plastic-bags/config.json +++ b/howtos/creating-beams-out-of-hdpe-plastic-bags/config.json @@ -34,7 +34,7 @@ "steps": [ { "images": [], - "text": "In this guide, we will outline the process to prepare plastic bags.\n\nMaterials Required:\n- Textile iron or panini press\n- Wax paper\n- HDPE plastic bags\n- A gas mask for protection\n\nSteps:\n\n1. Fold a single bag in half lengthwise.\n\n2. Roll the bag tightly so it remains thin, as it will shrink considerably.\n\n3. Place wax paper beneath and above the folded bag.\n\n4. Pass the iron over it 2-3 times with minimal pressure for less than 10 seconds per side. If using a panini press, simply press it.\n\n5. Flip the bag and repeat.\n\n6. Allow the semi-firm bag to cool under a heavy object to prevent curling, easing insertion into the mold later.\n\nNote: A standard-size bag will occupy approximately 0.4 inches (1 cm) in a 1-inch by 1-inch (2.54 cm by 2.54 cm) beam. Ensure sufficient bags are processed before proceeding.", + "text": "In this step, I will walk you through the steps to prepare your plastic bags.\n\nMaterials Needed:\n•\tTextile Iron or panini press\n•\tWax Paper\n•\tHDPE Plastic Bags\n•\tPreferably a carbon activator gas mask.\nSteps:\n\nStep 1: Take a single bag and fold it in half long ways.\n\nStep 2: Role the bag as best you can so it’s thin enough to fit into the beam later on. \nNote: The bag will shrink considerably, so don’t spend too much time folding it.\n\nStep 3: Put wax paper under and above the folded bag.\n\nStep 4: Do 2-3 quick passes with the iron while applying minimal pressure. This should be less than 10 seconds for each side. If you uses a panini press just press down.\n\nStep 5: Flip and repeat\n\nStep 6: Let your semi-firm plastic bag cool under a heavy object so it’s unable to curl up, this will make it easier to push into the mold later.\n\nNote: A single standard-size bag fills about 0.4 inches in a 1-inch by 1-inch beam so ensure you have a considerable amount of bags processed before the next step.", "videoUrl": "https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z1nJjLz8Ips", "_animationKey": "unique1", "title": "Making bags into denser plastic for melting." @@ -68,11 +68,11 @@ ], "title": "Creating your mold/beam.", "_animationKey": "unique2", - "text": "Your beam/mold requires a quick-release mechanism for easy removal before the plastic cools and obstructs access to the bottom. This guide outlines the necessary steps.\n\n### Materials Needed\n- Metal grinder\n- Hot rolled steel beam\n- Small metal scrap for use as a slider and mold bottom\n- Eye protection\n\n### Steps\n\n**Step 1:** Measure and mark 1/16 inch (or 1.6 mm) from one side of the beam for cutting. If the beam is aluminum or very thin, consider increasing this distance, but note that deeper cuts make plastic removal more difficult.\n\n**Step 2:** Repeat the marking process on the opposite side of the beam.\n\n**Step 3:** Utilize the metal grinder to make slots on both sides, ensuring they align for the metal scrap to slide through. Misaligned cuts may prevent proper fitting.\n\n**Step 4:** Select and cut a scrap metal piece to fit tightly with minimal gaps." + "text": "Your beam/mold will need a quick-release mechanism so you can remove it before your plastic cools overtop preventing access to the bottom. In this step, I will show the steps needed to accomplish this.\n\nMaterials needed.\n•\tMetal grinder \n•\tPreferably a hot rolled steel beam.\n•\tA small metal scrape to be used as a slider and bottom of your mold.\n•\tEye protection\nSteps:\n\nStep 1: Measure 1/16th of an inch on one side of the beam and draw a marking for your cut. If your beam is aluminum or extremely thin you may want to consider increasing this distance but beware further in you go harder it will be to remove your plastic beam.\n\nStep 2: Flip the beam around and repeat step 1.\n\nStep 3: Use the metal grinder to cut the slots on both sides so that the scrap metal can slide through. Ensure your cuts align with each other, if not your slider may not fit. \n\nStep 4: Choose a scrap metal piece that can be cut to size and fit accordingly to leave a limited number of gaps and provide a tight fit." }, { "videoUrl": "https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hCaCnTJ2HRY&t=16s", - "text": "### Beam Formation Method\n\n#### Materials Required:\n\n- Outdoor fire pit or an equivalent heat source capable of maintaining temperatures above 482°F (250°C)\n- Carbon activator gas mask\n- Mold: Hot-rolled steel tube is recommended, available at hardware stores for approximately $25\n- Heat-resistant gloves\n- Pushing stick: Use solid wood or metal matching the beam's inner dimensions\n- Fire-making materials, such as kindling\n- Pliers \n- Metal clamp, approximately 5 feet\n\nThis method is more efficient than manual techniques and produces a denser beam. A 5-foot clamp is beneficial for this process.", + "text": "This method is considerably easier than the manual method and will give you a much denser beam. I highly suggest this method if you have a 5+ foot clamp.\n\nMaterials Needed:\n•\tOutdoor fire pit or an alternate heat source that can reach constant temperatures above 250 Celsius.\n•\tCarbon activator gas mask\n•\tMold – Out of my three mold attempts the hot rolled steel tube worked the best. Local hardware stores carry these for about 25 USD.\n•\tHeat resistance gloves\n•\tPushing stick – Some sort of solid wood or metal with the same inner dimensions as your beam.\n•\tFire-making materials, lighter wood, etc.\n•\tPliers \n•\t+-5 foot metal clamp", "_animationKey": "uniquev0x6l", "images": [], "title": "Melting plastic into a Beam using a clamp. Part 1" @@ -81,18 +81,18 @@ "title": "Melting plastic into a Beam using a clamp. Part 2", "_animationKey": "unique5mx7i", "images": [], - "text": "### Steps\n\n**Step 1:** Insert a metal piece at the bottom of the mold. Ensure it is secure yet removable with pliers, serving as a quick-release mechanism for later removal.\n\n**Step 2:** Load a few plastic bags into the mold and compress them with a push stick before igniting a fire. It is advisable to use a clamp technique for adding more bags due to the difficulty of doing so manually later.\n\n**Step 3:** Build a consistently burning fire. Keep wood nearby to maintain the fire for at least 30 minutes if needed.", + "text": "Steps\nStep 1: Insert metal peace at the bottom of the mold and ensure it's secure but removable with pliers. This is your quick-release mechanism to open the bottom up for removal later.\n\nStep 2: Load a few plastic bags into the mold and compress them with the push stick before starting a fire, I recommend adding more bags using the clamp technique than the manual technique because of the difficulty of adding bags later. \n\nStep 3: Create a fire that can consistently burn; have wood near to stock the fire for at least 30 minutes if problems arise.", "videoUrl": "https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hCaCnTJ2HRY&t=16s" }, { "images": [], "title": "Melting plastic into a Beam using a clamp. Part 3", - "text": "Step 4: Position the beam over the fire and allow it to heat.\n\nStep 5: Once sufficiently heated, insert and secure the push stick in the clamp.\n\nStep 6: Tighten the clamp to compress the beam, repeating as necessary to solidify it.\n\nNote: Depending on your clamp type, you may need to adjust it by sliding the stationary side closer for additional compression length.\n\nNote: If desired, add more plastic bags after the initial compression to achieve the preferred length, though it is advisable not to exceed 10 inches (25 cm) for ease of removal.", + "text": "Step 4: Hold the beam over the fire without the push stick in and wait for it to heat up.\n\nStep 5: After you have given the plastic enough time to heat up push in the push stick and secure it in the clamp.\n\nStep 6: Tighten the clamp to compress the beam. This process will have to be repeated multiple times to make your beam solid. \n\nNote: You may have reset your clamp depending on the type your using todo so slide the stationary side closer to give more compression length.\n\nNote: If needed your able to add more plastic bags after the first compression and continue doing so to get your desired length. I don't recommend any length over 10 inches because it will get increasing more difficult to remove.", "_animationKey": "uniquebuq1v2", "videoUrl": "https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hCaCnTJ2HRY&t=16s" }, { - "text": "### Beam Removal Process\n\n1. **Remove Stopper:** Use pliers to extract the stopper from the bottom. \n\n2. **Attempt Beam Removal:** Press the push stick in, applying steady pressure. If successful, the process is complete. If not, proceed to the next step.\n\n3. **Reinsert Beam:** Place the beam back into the rig, ensuring the stopper is not in place. \n\n4. **Tighten Clamp:** While the material remains pliable, tighten the clamp. Once movement is detected, remove the mold from the beam and complete with the push stick.", + "text": "With this method, you should be able to remove the beam directly after formation and before it cools, either with force or by using the clamp without the stopper at the bottom.\n\nStep 1: Remove the stopper from the bottom with a pair of pliers.\n\nStep 2: Try and remove the beam by pressing the push stick in while applying consistent force. \nNote: If this works congratulations you are done! If not, no worries continue reading.\n\nStep 3: Put your beam back into the rig just like before but without the stopper at the bottom.\n\nStep 4: Tighten your clamp in while the plastic is still hot, once it starts to move you can take the mold out of the beam and finish the process with the push stick.", "videoUrl": "https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hCaCnTJ2HRY&t=16s", "title": "Removing the beam with the clamp technique", "images": [], @@ -102,7 +102,7 @@ "title": "Melting the prepared plastic into a beam. Part 1", "videoUrl": "https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hCaCnTJ2HRY&t=16s", "_animationKey": "unique3", - "text": "## Beam Creation Tutorial\n\n### Introduction\nBegin by constructing your mold and preparing the plastic bags. Once ready, proceed with melting the bags into beams. Be aware that manual methods may result in more air pockets compared to the use of metal clamps. If possible, utilize a metal clamp longer than 5 feet (1.5 meters) for improved results.\n\n### Materials Required\n- Outdoor fire pit or an alternative heat source capable of maintaining temperatures above 482°F (250°C).\n- Carbon activator gas mask.\n- Mold: A hot rolled steel tube is recommended; available at hardware stores for approximately $25.\n- Heat-resistant gloves.\n- Pushing stick: Made of solid wood or metal, matching the inner dimensions of your beam.\n- Materials for fire-starting, such as lighter wood.\n- Pliers.", + "text": "Now that you have built your mold and prepared your plastic bags we can start melting your bags into beams! The manual method will have much more air pockets than using the newly invented clamping technique, so if you have access to a 5+ foot metal clamp I encourage you to try the process above.\n\nMaterials Needed:\n•\tOutdoor fire pit or an alternate heat source that can reach constant temperatures above 250 Celsius.\n•\tCarbon activator gas mask\n•\tMold – Out of my three mold attempts the hot rolled steel tube worked the best. Local hardware stores carry these for about 25 USD.\n•\tHeat resistance gloves\n•\tPushing stick – Some sort of solid wood or metal with the same inner dimensions as your beam.\n•\tFire-making materials, lighter wood, etc.\n•\tPliers", "images": [] }, { @@ -110,12 +110,12 @@ "videoUrl": "https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hCaCnTJ2HRY&t=16s", "title": "Melting the prepared plastic into a beam. Part 2", "images": [], - "text": "Step 1: Place the metal piece at the bottom of the mold, securing it for later removal with pliers as a quick-release mechanism.\n\nStep 2: Insert several plastic bags into the mold and compress them with a push stick before igniting a fire. Ensure the mold is not entirely filled, using no more than eight bags at a time. Compress manually to achieve a solid final product.\n\nStep 3: Maintain a consistent fire, keeping wood nearby to sustain it for at least 30 minutes." + "text": "Step 1: Insert metal piece at the bottom of the mold and ensure it's secure, but removable with pliers. This is your quick-release mechanism to open the bottom for removal later.\n\nStep 2: Load a few plastic bags into the mold and compress with the push stick before starting a fire.\nNote: Be careful not to fill the entire mold up, or more than eight bags at once. You will need to hand compress these as best you can to ensure your final product is solid.\n\nStep 3: Create a fire that can consistently burn; have wood near to stock the fire for at least 30 minutes in case problems arise." }, { "images": [], "_animationKey": "uniquew24tx9", - "text": "### Step 4\nHold the mold over the fire, rotating it. Prepare the push stick to compress in a few moments. If the fire is well-built, the material will become malleable in about 30 seconds.\n\n### Step 5\nUse the push stick to compress the material. Apply maximum pressure; the more force exerted, the denser the product will be.\n\n### Step 6\nGradually add extra strips of material while compressing it with the push stick between additions until you reach the desired length. Add approximately 1 inch (2.54 cm) extra to account for thermal expansion and removal.\n\n### Step 7\nOnce the beam is properly compressed, use pliers to remove the bottom slider acting as a stop. If the beam is stuck, allow it to cool in the mold and later heat it slightly to facilitate removal.", + "text": "Step 4: Hold mold over the fire and rotate, have your push stick ready to compress in a few moments. If the fire is well built it will only take about 30 seconds to become a malleable substance. \n\nStep 5: Compress the plastic using the push stick. Be sure to apply as much pressure as possible; the more force you can exert the better; this will determine the density of your product.\n\nStep 6: Slowly add extra plastic strips while compressing the beam using the push stick between each one until you’re satisfied with the length. \nNote: I recommend adding about an inch extra to compensate for thermal expansion and the removal process.\n\nStep 7: Once the beam is properly compressed use pliers to remove the slider acting as a stop at the bottom and attempt to remove it with the push stick. If the beam is stuck I suggest letting it cool in the mold and later heating the beam up just enough to loosen it.", "title": "Melting the prepared plastic into a beam. Part 3", "videoUrl": "https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hCaCnTJ2HRY&t=16s" } @@ -136,7 +136,7 @@ "moderation": "accepted", "moderatorFeedback": "", "_contentModifiedTimestamp": "2024-01-19T18:23:44.699Z", - "description": "# HDPE Plastic Bag Beam Tutorial\n\nThis guide outlines the steps to convert HDPE plastic bags into beams using basic tools, without the need for specialized machinery like shredders or injection machines. If a long clamp is available, additional instructions at the end can help improve beam quality.", + "description": "In this guide, I will walk you through the steps to make HDPE plastic bags into beams. This process is also done without fancy machinery such as a shredder or injection machine. If you have access to a long clamp I recommend following the steps at the bottom to make a better beam.", "total_views": 207, "creatorCountry": "us", "user": { @@ -297,9 +297,5 @@ "urls": [] } }, - "content": "# HDPE Plastic Bag Beam Tutorial\n\nThis guide outlines the steps to convert HDPE plastic bags into beams using basic tools, without the need for specialized machinery like shredders or injection machines. If a long clamp is available, additional instructions at the end can help improve beam quality.\n\n\nUser Location: Indialantic-Melbourne Beach, United States of America (the)\n\nIn this guide, we will outline the process to prepare plastic bags.\n\nMaterials Required:\n- Textile iron or panini press\n- Wax paper\n- HDPE plastic bags\n- A gas mask for protection\n\nSteps:\n\n1. Fold a single bag in half lengthwise.\n\n2. Roll the bag tightly so it remains thin, as it will shrink considerably.\n\n3. Place wax paper beneath and above the folded bag.\n\n4. Pass the iron over it 2-3 times with minimal pressure for less than 10 seconds per side. If using a panini press, simply press it.\n\n5. Flip the bag and repeat.\n\n6. Allow the semi-firm bag to cool under a heavy object to prevent curling, easing insertion into the mold later.\n\nNote: A standard-size bag will occupy approximately 0.4 inches (1 cm) in a 1-inch by 1-inch (2.54 cm by 2.54 cm) beam. Ensure sufficient bags are processed before proceeding.\n\nYour beam/mold requires a quick-release mechanism for easy removal before the plastic cools and obstructs access to the bottom. This guide outlines the necessary steps.\n\n### Materials Needed\n- Metal grinder\n- Hot rolled steel beam\n- Small metal scrap for use as a slider and mold bottom\n- Eye protection\n\n### Steps\n\n**Step 1:** Measure and mark 1/16 inch (or 1.6 mm) from one side of the beam for cutting. If the beam is aluminum or very thin, consider increasing this distance, but note that deeper cuts make plastic removal more difficult.\n\n**Step 2:** Repeat the marking process on the opposite side of the beam.\n\n**Step 3:** Utilize the metal grinder to make slots on both sides, ensuring they align for the metal scrap to slide through. Misaligned cuts may prevent proper fitting.\n\n**Step 4:** Select and cut a scrap metal piece to fit tightly with minimal gaps.\n\n### Beam Formation Method\n\n#### Materials Required:\n\n- Outdoor fire pit or an equivalent heat source capable of maintaining temperatures above 482°F (250°C)\n- Carbon activator gas mask\n- Mold: Hot-rolled steel tube is recommended, available at hardware stores for approximately $25\n- Heat-resistant gloves\n- Pushing stick: Use solid wood or metal matching the beam's inner dimensions\n- Fire-making materials, such as kindling\n- Pliers \n- Metal clamp, approximately 5 feet\n\nThis method is more efficient than manual techniques and produces a denser beam. A 5-foot clamp is beneficial for this process.\n\n### Steps\n\n**Step 1:** Insert a metal piece at the bottom of the mold. Ensure it is secure yet removable with pliers, serving as a quick-release mechanism for later removal.\n\n**Step 2:** Load a few plastic bags into the mold and compress them with a push stick before igniting a fire. It is advisable to use a clamp technique for adding more bags due to the difficulty of doing so manually later.\n\n**Step 3:** Build a consistently burning fire. Keep wood nearby to maintain the fire for at least 30 minutes if needed.\n\nStep 4: Position the beam over the fire and allow it to heat.\n\nStep 5: Once sufficiently heated, insert and secure the push stick in the clamp.\n\nStep 6: Tighten the clamp to compress the beam, repeating as necessary to solidify it.\n\nNote: Depending on your clamp type, you may need to adjust it by sliding the stationary side closer for additional compression length.\n\nNote: If desired, add more plastic bags after the initial compression to achieve the preferred length, though it is advisable not to exceed 10 inches (25 cm) for ease of removal.\n\n### Beam Removal Process\n\n1. **Remove Stopper:** Use pliers to extract the stopper from the bottom. \n\n2. **Attempt Beam Removal:** Press the push stick in, applying steady pressure. If successful, the process is complete. If not, proceed to the next step.\n\n3. **Reinsert Beam:** Place the beam back into the rig, ensuring the stopper is not in place. \n\n4. **Tighten Clamp:** While the material remains pliable, tighten the clamp. Once movement is detected, remove the mold from the beam and complete with the push stick.\n\n## Beam Creation Tutorial\n\n### Introduction\nBegin by constructing your mold and preparing the plastic bags. Once ready, proceed with melting the bags into beams. Be aware that manual methods may result in more air pockets compared to the use of metal clamps. If possible, utilize a metal clamp longer than 5 feet (1.5 meters) for improved results.\n\n### Materials Required\n- Outdoor fire pit or an alternative heat source capable of maintaining temperatures above 482°F (250°C).\n- Carbon activator gas mask.\n- Mold: A hot rolled steel tube is recommended; available at hardware stores for approximately $25.\n- Heat-resistant gloves.\n- Pushing stick: Made of solid wood or metal, matching the inner dimensions of your beam.\n- Materials for fire-starting, such as lighter wood.\n- Pliers.\n\nStep 1: Place the metal piece at the bottom of the mold, securing it for later removal with pliers as a quick-release mechanism.\n\nStep 2: Insert several plastic bags into the mold and compress them with a push stick before igniting a fire. Ensure the mold is not entirely filled, using no more than eight bags at a time. Compress manually to achieve a solid final product.\n\nStep 3: Maintain a consistent fire, keeping wood nearby to sustain it for at least 30 minutes.\n\n### Step 4\nHold the mold over the fire, rotating it. Prepare the push stick to compress in a few moments. If the fire is well-built, the material will become malleable in about 30 seconds.\n\n### Step 5\nUse the push stick to compress the material. Apply maximum pressure; the more force exerted, the denser the product will be.\n\n### Step 6\nGradually add extra strips of material while compressing it with the push stick between additions until you reach the desired length. Add approximately 1 inch (2.54 cm) extra to account for thermal expansion and removal.\n\n### Step 7\nOnce the beam is properly compressed, use pliers to remove the bottom slider acting as a stop. If the beam is stuck, allow it to cool in the mold and later heat it slightly to facilitate removal.", - "keywords": "HDPE plastic beams, plastic recycling tutorial, DIY plastic beam, HDPE bag conversion, plastic molding process, homemade plastic beams, eco-friendly construction, plastic bag recycling, DIY recycling projects, plastic beam tutorial", - "resources": "### Tools\n\n- Metal grinder\n- Textile iron or panini press\n- 5-foot metal clamp\n- Pliers\n- Push stick (solid wood/metal)\n\n### Hardware\n\n- Hot-rolled steel tube (mold)\n- Metal scrap (slider/mold bottom)\n- Outdoor fire pit (482°F+ capable)\n- Fire-making materials (kindling)\n- Wax paper\n\n### Protective Gear\n\n- Carbon activator gas mask\n- Heat-resistant gloves\n- Eye protection", - "references": "## References\n\n### Articles\n\n-\n\n### Books\n\n-\n\n### Papers\n\n-\n\n### YouTube\n\n-\n\n### Opensource Designs\n\n-", - "brief": "Convert HDPE plastic bags into beams without heavy machinery using basic tools. Follow this step-by-step guide for eco-friendly DIY construction." + "content": "In this guide, I will walk you through the steps to make HDPE plastic bags into beams. This process is also done without fancy machinery such as a shredder or injection machine. If you have access to a long clamp I recommend following the steps at the bottom to make a better beam.\n\n\nUser Location: Indialantic-Melbourne Beach, United States of America (the)\n\nIn this step, I will walk you through the steps to prepare your plastic bags.\n\nMaterials Needed:\n•\tTextile Iron or panini press\n•\tWax Paper\n•\tHDPE Plastic Bags\n•\tPreferably a carbon activator gas mask.\nSteps:\n\nStep 1: Take a single bag and fold it in half long ways.\n\nStep 2: Role the bag as best you can so it’s thin enough to fit into the beam later on. \nNote: The bag will shrink considerably, so don’t spend too much time folding it.\n\nStep 3: Put wax paper under and above the folded bag.\n\nStep 4: Do 2-3 quick passes with the iron while applying minimal pressure. This should be less than 10 seconds for each side. If you uses a panini press just press down.\n\nStep 5: Flip and repeat\n\nStep 6: Let your semi-firm plastic bag cool under a heavy object so it’s unable to curl up, this will make it easier to push into the mold later.\n\nNote: A single standard-size bag fills about 0.4 inches in a 1-inch by 1-inch beam so ensure you have a considerable amount of bags processed before the next step.\n\nYour beam/mold will need a quick-release mechanism so you can remove it before your plastic cools overtop preventing access to the bottom. In this step, I will show the steps needed to accomplish this.\n\nMaterials needed.\n•\tMetal grinder \n•\tPreferably a hot rolled steel beam.\n•\tA small metal scrape to be used as a slider and bottom of your mold.\n•\tEye protection\nSteps:\n\nStep 1: Measure 1/16th of an inch on one side of the beam and draw a marking for your cut. If your beam is aluminum or extremely thin you may want to consider increasing this distance but beware further in you go harder it will be to remove your plastic beam.\n\nStep 2: Flip the beam around and repeat step 1.\n\nStep 3: Use the metal grinder to cut the slots on both sides so that the scrap metal can slide through. Ensure your cuts align with each other, if not your slider may not fit. \n\nStep 4: Choose a scrap metal piece that can be cut to size and fit accordingly to leave a limited number of gaps and provide a tight fit.\n\nThis method is considerably easier than the manual method and will give you a much denser beam. I highly suggest this method if you have a 5+ foot clamp.\n\nMaterials Needed:\n•\tOutdoor fire pit or an alternate heat source that can reach constant temperatures above 250 Celsius.\n•\tCarbon activator gas mask\n•\tMold – Out of my three mold attempts the hot rolled steel tube worked the best. Local hardware stores carry these for about 25 USD.\n•\tHeat resistance gloves\n•\tPushing stick – Some sort of solid wood or metal with the same inner dimensions as your beam.\n•\tFire-making materials, lighter wood, etc.\n•\tPliers \n•\t+-5 foot metal clamp\n\nSteps\nStep 1: Insert metal peace at the bottom of the mold and ensure it's secure but removable with pliers. This is your quick-release mechanism to open the bottom up for removal later.\n\nStep 2: Load a few plastic bags into the mold and compress them with the push stick before starting a fire, I recommend adding more bags using the clamp technique than the manual technique because of the difficulty of adding bags later. \n\nStep 3: Create a fire that can consistently burn; have wood near to stock the fire for at least 30 minutes if problems arise.\n\nStep 4: Hold the beam over the fire without the push stick in and wait for it to heat up.\n\nStep 5: After you have given the plastic enough time to heat up push in the push stick and secure it in the clamp.\n\nStep 6: Tighten the clamp to compress the beam. This process will have to be repeated multiple times to make your beam solid. \n\nNote: You may have reset your clamp depending on the type your using todo so slide the stationary side closer to give more compression length.\n\nNote: If needed your able to add more plastic bags after the first compression and continue doing so to get your desired length. I don't recommend any length over 10 inches because it will get increasing more difficult to remove.\n\nWith this method, you should be able to remove the beam directly after formation and before it cools, either with force or by using the clamp without the stopper at the bottom.\n\nStep 1: Remove the stopper from the bottom with a pair of pliers.\n\nStep 2: Try and remove the beam by pressing the push stick in while applying consistent force. \nNote: If this works congratulations you are done! If not, no worries continue reading.\n\nStep 3: Put your beam back into the rig just like before but without the stopper at the bottom.\n\nStep 4: Tighten your clamp in while the plastic is still hot, once it starts to move you can take the mold out of the beam and finish the process with the push stick.\n\nNow that you have built your mold and prepared your plastic bags we can start melting your bags into beams! The manual method will have much more air pockets than using the newly invented clamping technique, so if you have access to a 5+ foot metal clamp I encourage you to try the process above.\n\nMaterials Needed:\n•\tOutdoor fire pit or an alternate heat source that can reach constant temperatures above 250 Celsius.\n•\tCarbon activator gas mask\n•\tMold – Out of my three mold attempts the hot rolled steel tube worked the best. Local hardware stores carry these for about 25 USD.\n•\tHeat resistance gloves\n•\tPushing stick – Some sort of solid wood or metal with the same inner dimensions as your beam.\n•\tFire-making materials, lighter wood, etc.\n•\tPliers\n\nStep 1: Insert metal piece at the bottom of the mold and ensure it's secure, but removable with pliers. This is your quick-release mechanism to open the bottom for removal later.\n\nStep 2: Load a few plastic bags into the mold and compress with the push stick before starting a fire.\nNote: Be careful not to fill the entire mold up, or more than eight bags at once. You will need to hand compress these as best you can to ensure your final product is solid.\n\nStep 3: Create a fire that can consistently burn; have wood near to stock the fire for at least 30 minutes in case problems arise.\n\nStep 4: Hold mold over the fire and rotate, have your push stick ready to compress in a few moments. If the fire is well built it will only take about 30 seconds to become a malleable substance. \n\nStep 5: Compress the plastic using the push stick. Be sure to apply as much pressure as possible; the more force you can exert the better; this will determine the density of your product.\n\nStep 6: Slowly add extra plastic strips while compressing the beam using the push stick between each one until you’re satisfied with the length. \nNote: I recommend adding about an inch extra to compensate for thermal expansion and the removal process.\n\nStep 7: Once the beam is properly compressed use pliers to remove the slider acting as a stop at the bottom and attempt to remove it with the push stick. If the beam is stuck I suggest letting it cool in the mold and later heating the beam up just enough to loosen it." } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/creation-of-hdep-sheet-with-just-one-plate/README.md b/howtos/creation-of-hdep-sheet-with-just-one-plate/README.md index 950ef516f..12e9273cf 100644 --- a/howtos/creation-of-hdep-sheet-with-just-one-plate/README.md +++ b/howtos/creation-of-hdep-sheet-with-just-one-plate/README.md @@ -1,86 +1,45 @@ --- title: Creation of HDEP sheet with just one plate slug: creation-of-hdep-sheet-with-just-one-plate -description: ### HDPE Sheet Production Guide - -Producing an HDPE sheet may become complex over time as unexpected issues arise during plastic handling. However, creativity and problem-solving can lead to successful project outcomes, even in academic settings. +description: Making a hdep sheet can become more complicated as the project progresses, due to the unforeseen events that can occur when handling the plastic in one way or another, but ingenuity helps to find solutions to these dilemmas, reaching a good level of development, even if it is a university project. tags: ["product","hack","HDPE","melting"] category: Products difficulty: Medium time: < 1 week -keywords: HDPE sheet production, HDPE sheet tutorial, HDPE sheet melting, home plastic processing, plastic sheet transformation, DIY plastic sheets, HDPE melting temperature, plastic handling tips, uniform plastic sheet, HDPE sheet equipment. +keywords: location: --- # Creation of HDEP sheet with just one plate ![Creation of HDEP sheet with just one plate](laminaa-187b9d95037.jpg) -### HDPE Sheet Production Guide - -Producing an HDPE sheet may become complex over time as unexpected issues arise during plastic handling. However, creativity and problem-solving can lead to successful project outcomes, even in academic settings. +Making a hdep sheet can become more complicated as the project progresses, due to the unforeseen events that can occur when handling the plastic in one way or another, but ingenuity helps to find solutions to these dilemmas, reaching a good level of development, even if it is a university project. ## Steps ### Step 1: Collecting the plastic -Acquiring supplies is straightforward as this material is commonly found in various containers, lids, and toys. +Gathering supplies is easy as we are surrounded by this material. All kinds of containers, lids, toys, etc... are made of hdep. ![recolectar-187b9de8e90.jpg](./recolectar-187b9de8e90.jpg) ### Step 2: Cut the plastic into smaller pieces. -To melt plastic effectively, first cut it into small pieces. For home processing, use a blender. If this causes pieces to fly out, scissors and manual force can also work. +To be able to melt the plastic it is advisable to first convert it into small pieces of plastic, for this if it is done at home you can use a blender, but if the pieces fly into the blender beaker, you can achieve a good result with a scissors and a lot of force. ![Procesar-187b9df96a9.jpg](./Procesar-187b9df96a9.jpg) ### Step 3: Melt the plastic -To melt HDPE, maintain a temperature above 275 degrees Fahrenheit (135 degrees Celsius). This can be achieved using a hot plate, hair iron, or clothes iron if a heat gun or more advanced equipment is unavailable. +To melt the hdpe you need a temperature higher than 135 degrees Celsius, which is possible to achieve with a hot plate, hair iron, or clothes iron if you don't have a heat gun or something more sophisticated. ![calentar-187b9e137c6.jpg](./calentar-187b9e137c6.jpg) ### Step 4: Outcome -In this tutorial, we will create a uniform plastic sheet to illustrate a basic approach to industrial plastic transformation from home. +In this way, we will obtain a little homogeneous sheet but which serves to demonstrate and exemplify what an industrial process of plastic transformation can be like, making a simple approach from home. ![Final-187b9e409d4.jpg](./Final-187b9e409d4.jpg) ## Resources -To address the tools, software, and hardware required for HDPE sheet production based on the provided tutorial, here’s a concise breakdown: - -### - -### Tools - -- Blender (for shredding plastic into small pieces) -- Scissors (manual cutting alternative if blending is ineffective) - -### Hardware - -- Hot plate (melting device for maintaining temperatures above 275°F/135°C) -- Hair iron (alternative for heating/pressing HDPE) -- Clothes iron (substitute for heat application and sheet formation) -- Heat gun (advanced heating tool mentioned as optional) - -### Software - -- No software required (process relies solely on physical tools and equipment) - -The tutorial emphasizes repurposing common household items for small-scale production, prioritizing accessibility. -## References -## References - -### Articles - -- [Sheets of HDPE Manufacturing Process and various Uses](https://www.singhalglobal.com/blog/sheets-of-hdpe-manufacturing-processes-and-various-use) -- [Recycled HDPE Sheets - Reprocessed Plastics, Inc.](https://gipo-rpi.com/hdpe-sheets/) -- [How Are HDPE Sheets Made?](https://www.ningeplastics.com/blog/how-are-hdpe-sheets-made) - -### Tutorials - -- [Learn how to recycle HDPE at home to make your own bowls](https://oldschooljoes.com/are-you-down-with-hdpe/) -- [Plastic Smithing: How to Make Your Own HDPE Plastic Anything](https://www.instructables.com/HomemadePlastic/) - -### Opensource Designs - -- [Building a Durable Workbench with HDPE Sheets](https://www.ningeplastics.com/blog/building-a-durable-workbench-with-hdpe-sheets-a-step-by-step-guide-for-diy-enthusiasts) \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/creation-of-hdep-sheet-with-just-one-plate/config.json b/howtos/creation-of-hdep-sheet-with-just-one-plate/config.json index de3349f6f..9bf33407b 100644 --- a/howtos/creation-of-hdep-sheet-with-just-one-plate/config.json +++ b/howtos/creation-of-hdep-sheet-with-just-one-plate/config.json @@ -43,7 +43,7 @@ "_deleted": false, "_id": "izndOqRRvreKR3RyxCrJ", "total_views": 628, - "description": "### HDPE Sheet Production Guide\n\nProducing an HDPE sheet may become complex over time as unexpected issues arise during plastic handling. However, creativity and problem-solving can lead to successful project outcomes, even in academic settings.", + "description": "Making a hdep sheet can become more complicated as the project progresses, due to the unforeseen events that can occur when handling the plastic in one way or another, but ingenuity helps to find solutions to these dilemmas, reaching a good level of development, even if it is a university project. ", "category": { "_id": "WZbV3iGK3TwV6n62WbJC", "_deleted": false, @@ -55,7 +55,7 @@ { "title": "Collecting the plastic", "_animationKey": "unique1", - "text": "Acquiring supplies is straightforward as this material is commonly found in various containers, lids, and toys.", + "text": "Gathering supplies is easy as we are surrounded by this material. All kinds of containers, lids, toys, etc... are made of hdep. ", "images": [ { "name": "recolectar-187b9de8e90.jpg", @@ -88,11 +88,11 @@ "alt": "Procesar-187b9df96a9.jpg" } ], - "text": "To melt plastic effectively, first cut it into small pieces. For home processing, use a blender. If this causes pieces to fly out, scissors and manual force can also work." + "text": "To be able to melt the plastic it is advisable to first convert it into small pieces of plastic, for this if it is done at home you can use a blender, but if the pieces fly into the blender beaker, you can achieve a good result with a scissors and a lot of force." }, { "_animationKey": "unique3", - "text": "To melt HDPE, maintain a temperature above 275 degrees Fahrenheit (135 degrees Celsius). This can be achieved using a hot plate, hair iron, or clothes iron if a heat gun or more advanced equipment is unavailable.", + "text": "To melt the hdpe you need a temperature higher than 135 degrees Celsius, which is possible to achieve with a hot plate, hair iron, or clothes iron if you don't have a heat gun or something more sophisticated.", "title": "Melt the plastic ", "images": [ { @@ -110,7 +110,7 @@ ] }, { - "text": "In this tutorial, we will create a uniform plastic sheet to illustrate a basic approach to industrial plastic transformation from home.", + "text": "In this way, we will obtain a little homogeneous sheet but which serves to demonstrate and exemplify what an industrial process of plastic transformation can be like, making a simple approach from home. ", "_animationKey": "unique29mc9k", "title": "Outcome", "images": [ @@ -131,9 +131,5 @@ ], "time": "< 1 week", "moderation": "accepted", - "content": "### HDPE Sheet Production Guide\n\nProducing an HDPE sheet may become complex over time as unexpected issues arise during plastic handling. However, creativity and problem-solving can lead to successful project outcomes, even in academic settings.\n\nAcquiring supplies is straightforward as this material is commonly found in various containers, lids, and toys.\n\nTo melt plastic effectively, first cut it into small pieces. For home processing, use a blender. If this causes pieces to fly out, scissors and manual force can also work.\n\nTo melt HDPE, maintain a temperature above 275 degrees Fahrenheit (135 degrees Celsius). This can be achieved using a hot plate, hair iron, or clothes iron if a heat gun or more advanced equipment is unavailable.\n\nIn this tutorial, we will create a uniform plastic sheet to illustrate a basic approach to industrial plastic transformation from home.", - "keywords": "HDPE sheet production, HDPE sheet tutorial, HDPE sheet melting, home plastic processing, plastic sheet transformation, DIY plastic sheets, HDPE melting temperature, plastic handling tips, uniform plastic sheet, HDPE sheet equipment.", - "resources": "To address the tools, software, and hardware required for HDPE sheet production based on the provided tutorial, here’s a concise breakdown:\n\n###\n\n### Tools\n\n- Blender (for shredding plastic into small pieces)\n- Scissors (manual cutting alternative if blending is ineffective)\n\n### Hardware\n\n- Hot plate (melting device for maintaining temperatures above 275°F/135°C)\n- Hair iron (alternative for heating/pressing HDPE)\n- Clothes iron (substitute for heat application and sheet formation)\n- Heat gun (advanced heating tool mentioned as optional)\n\n### Software\n\n- No software required (process relies solely on physical tools and equipment)\n\nThe tutorial emphasizes repurposing common household items for small-scale production, prioritizing accessibility.", - "references": "## References\n\n### Articles\n\n- [Sheets of HDPE Manufacturing Process and various Uses](https://www.singhalglobal.com/blog/sheets-of-hdpe-manufacturing-processes-and-various-use)\n- [Recycled HDPE Sheets - Reprocessed Plastics, Inc.](https://gipo-rpi.com/hdpe-sheets/)\n- [How Are HDPE Sheets Made?](https://www.ningeplastics.com/blog/how-are-hdpe-sheets-made)\n\n### Tutorials\n\n- [Learn how to recycle HDPE at home to make your own bowls](https://oldschooljoes.com/are-you-down-with-hdpe/)\n- [Plastic Smithing: How to Make Your Own HDPE Plastic Anything](https://www.instructables.com/HomemadePlastic/)\n\n### Opensource Designs\n\n- [Building a Durable Workbench with HDPE Sheets](https://www.ningeplastics.com/blog/building-a-durable-workbench-with-hdpe-sheets-a-step-by-step-guide-for-diy-enthusiasts)", - "brief": "Learn how to produce HDPE sheets at home using simple tools and techniques. Discover the process of transforming everyday plastic into uniform sheets." + "content": "Making a hdep sheet can become more complicated as the project progresses, due to the unforeseen events that can occur when handling the plastic in one way or another, but ingenuity helps to find solutions to these dilemmas, reaching a good level of development, even if it is a university project. \n\nGathering supplies is easy as we are surrounded by this material. All kinds of containers, lids, toys, etc... are made of hdep. \n\nTo be able to melt the plastic it is advisable to first convert it into small pieces of plastic, for this if it is done at home you can use a blender, but if the pieces fly into the blender beaker, you can achieve a good result with a scissors and a lot of force.\n\nTo melt the hdpe you need a temperature higher than 135 degrees Celsius, which is possible to achieve with a hot plate, hair iron, or clothes iron if you don't have a heat gun or something more sophisticated.\n\nIn this way, we will obtain a little homogeneous sheet but which serves to demonstrate and exemplify what an industrial process of plastic transformation can be like, making a simple approach from home. " } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/cut-out-shapes-out-of-plastic-sheets-with-a-cnc-/README.md b/howtos/cut-out-shapes-out-of-plastic-sheets-with-a-cnc-/README.md index 46e37e875..35564a451 100644 --- a/howtos/cut-out-shapes-out-of-plastic-sheets-with-a-cnc-/README.md +++ b/howtos/cut-out-shapes-out-of-plastic-sheets-with-a-cnc-/README.md @@ -1,23 +1,32 @@ --- title: Cut out shapes out of plastic sheets with a CNC slug: cut-out-shapes-out-of-plastic-sheets-with-a-cnc- -description: This tutorial explains the process of cutting HDPE sheets using an X-Carve CNC. You can watch the full video in Spanish with subtitles ~~[here](youtube.com: youtube.com/watch?v=4LrrFz802To). +description: In this how to, I will show you our process to cut HDPE Sheets using a X-Carve CNC. + +Here is the full video in spanish with subtitles https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4LrrFz802To tags: ["HDPE"] category: uncategorized difficulty: Medium time: < 5 hours -keywords: HDPE sheet cutting, X-Carve CNC, Easel CAM Software, CNC milling tutorial, HDPE 2-Colors, CNC clamps, Inkscape design software, vector file creation, CNC Router setup, CNC machine projects +keywords: location: Mexico City, Mexico --- # Cut out shapes out of plastic sheets with a CNC ![Cut out shapes out of plastic sheets with a CNC ](IMG_20200605_142311.jpg) -This tutorial explains the process of cutting HDPE sheets using an X-Carve CNC. You can watch the full video in Spanish with subtitles ~~[here](youtube.com: youtube.com/watch?v=4LrrFz802To). +In this how to, I will show you our process to cut HDPE Sheets using a X-Carve CNC. + +Here is the full video in spanish with subtitles https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4LrrFz802To User Location: Mexico City, Mexico ## Steps ### Step 1: Measure the plastic sheet -To measure the plastic sheet, determine its height, width, and thickness. The X-Carve machine uses the EASEL CAM Software, which is user-friendly for CNC milling. EASEL allows simulation of the material and includes HDPE 2-Colors in its material options. +For this step we need to measure our plastic sheet: Height, Width and Thickness. Our X-Carve machine works with the CAM Software EASEL, for me, the easiest software for CNC milling out there. + +The cool thing about Easel (easel.inventables.com: easel.inventables.com/) is that you can "simulate" your actual material and THEY EVEN HAVE HDPE 2-Colors in their cutting material lists!! + + + ![1.jpg](./1.jpg) @@ -27,16 +36,17 @@ To measure the plastic sheet, determine its height, width, and thickness. The X- ### Step 2: Secure sheet -Use CNC clamps to secure the sheet to the table. +Using the CNC clamps from the X-Carve, secure the sheet to the table, ![3.jpg](./3.jpg) ### Step 3: Choosing a file to cut -Now proceed to your design software, such as Inkscape, to create a vector file, or download one from thenounproject.com. +Now we go to our illustrator, such as Inkscape to design a vector file or download and open source one frome thenounproject.com: thenounproject.com + +We download the SVG file, which is an open source vector format and import it to Easel. -Download the SVG file and import it into Easel. ![4.jpg](./4.jpg) @@ -46,14 +56,13 @@ Download the SVG file and import it into Easel. ### Step 4: Follow the cutting Wizzard -Proceed by selecting your desired carving or cutting width and initiate the cutting [filtered]: +Now with the file we can choose the width we want to carve/cut and then we go to cut and start the wizzard: +- We check that the sheet is fixed. +- We also specify the cutting bit, we are using a 1/8 flat flute bit. +- We tell the machine where the coordinate 0-0 is, which we always choose as the down left corner. +- We raise the bit, turn on the CNC Router!!! -- Ensure the sheet is securely fixed. -- Specify the cutting bit; for this, we use a 1/8 inch (3.175 mm) flat flute bit. -- Set the origin point at the bottom-left corner as coordinate 0-0. -- Elevate the bit and activate the CNC Router. - -Then, the process begins! +AND PUM THE MAGIC BEGINS!! ![6.jpg](./6.jpg) @@ -66,14 +75,19 @@ Then, the process begins! ### Step 5: Post-production and show case -Take your glasses or object, complete any necessary finishing steps, and then share the results with friends and family. +You take now your glasses or object and postprocess them and of course show it to your friends, family and so on. + + + ![9.jpg](./9.jpg) ### Step 6: Hack it and try it yourself -You can attempt this project using various types of CNC machines or manual routers and saws. Sharing your work encourages community growth and collaboration. Please contribute your ideas and comments. +You can try this project with other types of CNC machines, even manual Routers or manual saw, as I did on this video: youtu.be: youtu.be/gxkcffQD3eQ, but the important thing is that you share what you do and help this community to grow!!! + +Share your ideas and comments! ![IMG_20200605_142311.jpg](./IMG_20200605_142311.jpg) diff --git a/howtos/cut-out-shapes-out-of-plastic-sheets-with-a-cnc-/config.json b/howtos/cut-out-shapes-out-of-plastic-sheets-with-a-cnc-/config.json index 53ed7f38b..ce723fad2 100644 --- a/howtos/cut-out-shapes-out-of-plastic-sheets-with-a-cnc-/config.json +++ b/howtos/cut-out-shapes-out-of-plastic-sheets-with-a-cnc-/config.json @@ -9,7 +9,7 @@ "cut-out-shapes-out-of-plastic-sheets-with-a-cnc-" ], "_created": "2023-08-23T18:20:09.098Z", - "description": "This tutorial explains the process of cutting HDPE sheets using an X-Carve CNC. You can watch the full video in Spanish with subtitles ~~[here](youtube.com: youtube.com/watch?v=4LrrFz802To).", + "description": "In this how to, I will show you our process to cut HDPE Sheets using a X-Carve CNC.\n\nHere is the full video in spanish with subtitles https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4LrrFz802To ", "votedUsefulBy": [ "sigolene", "mattia", @@ -43,7 +43,7 @@ "steps": [ { "title": "Measure the plastic sheet", - "text": "To measure the plastic sheet, determine its height, width, and thickness. The X-Carve machine uses the EASEL CAM Software, which is user-friendly for CNC milling. EASEL allows simulation of the material and includes HDPE 2-Colors in its material options.", + "text": "For this step we need to measure our plastic sheet: Height, Width and Thickness. Our X-Carve machine works with the CAM Software EASEL, for me, the easiest software for CNC milling out there. \n\nThe cool thing about Easel (easel.inventables.com: easel.inventables.com/) is that you can \"simulate\" your actual material and THEY EVEN HAVE HDPE 2-Colors in their cutting material lists!!\n\n\n", "images": [ { "fullPath": "uploads/howtos/pbo0Pe44aTngvlD04kGf/1.jpg", @@ -73,7 +73,7 @@ "_animationKey": "unique1" }, { - "text": "Use CNC clamps to secure the sheet to the table.", + "text": "Using the CNC clamps from the X-Carve, secure the sheet to the table, ", "_animationKey": "unique2", "images": [ { @@ -93,7 +93,7 @@ }, { "title": "Choosing a file to cut ", - "text": "Now proceed to your design software, such as Inkscape, to create a vector file, or download one from thenounproject.com.\n\nDownload the SVG file and import it into Easel.", + "text": "Now we go to our illustrator, such as Inkscape to design a vector file or download and open source one frome thenounproject.com: thenounproject.com\n\nWe download the SVG file, which is an open source vector format and import it to Easel. \n", "images": [ { "downloadUrl": "https://firebasestorage.googleapis.com/v0/b/onearmyworld.appspot.com/o/uploads%2Fhowtos%2Fpbo0Pe44aTngvlD04kGf%2F4.jpg?alt=media&token=1cd2d49d-9335-4bb1-ac2a-e625322ca604", @@ -123,7 +123,7 @@ "_animationKey": "unique3" }, { - "text": "Proceed by selecting your desired carving or cutting width and initiate the cutting [filtered]:\n\n- Ensure the sheet is securely fixed.\n- Specify the cutting bit; for this, we use a 1/8 inch (3.175 mm) flat flute bit.\n- Set the origin point at the bottom-left corner as coordinate 0-0.\n- Elevate the bit and activate the CNC Router.\n\nThen, the process begins!", + "text": "Now with the file we can choose the width we want to carve/cut and then we go to cut and start the wizzard:\n- We check that the sheet is fixed.\n- We also specify the cutting bit, we are using a 1/8 flat flute bit. \n- We tell the machine where the coordinate 0-0 is, which we always choose as the down left corner.\n- We raise the bit, turn on the CNC Router!!!\n\nAND PUM THE MAGIC BEGINS!!", "title": "Follow the cutting Wizzard", "images": [ { @@ -166,7 +166,7 @@ "_animationKey": "uniquenisc2v" }, { - "text": "Take your glasses or object, complete any necessary finishing steps, and then share the results with friends and family.", + "text": "You take now your glasses or object and postprocess them and of course show it to your friends, family and so on.\n\n\n", "images": [ { "fullPath": "uploads/howtos/pbo0Pe44aTngvlD04kGf/9.jpg", @@ -187,7 +187,7 @@ { "_animationKey": "uniquem4y0yi", "title": "Hack it and try it yourself", - "text": "You can attempt this project using various types of CNC machines or manual routers and saws. Sharing your work encourages community growth and collaboration. Please contribute your ideas and comments.", + "text": "You can try this project with other types of CNC machines, even manual Routers or manual saw, as I did on this video: youtu.be: youtu.be/gxkcffQD3eQ, but the important thing is that you share what you do and help this community to grow!!!\n\nShare your ideas and comments!", "images": [ { "contentType": "image/jpeg", @@ -337,6 +337,5 @@ "category": { "label": "uncategorized" }, - "content": "This tutorial explains the process of cutting HDPE sheets using an X-Carve CNC. You can watch the full video in Spanish with subtitles ~~~~[here](youtube.com: youtube.com/watch?v=4LrrFz802To).\n\n\nUser Location: Mexico City, Mexico\n\nTo measure the plastic sheet, determine its height, width, and thickness. The X-Carve machine uses the EASEL CAM Software, which is user-friendly for CNC milling. EASEL allows simulation of the material and includes HDPE 2-Colors in its material options.\n\nUse CNC clamps to secure the sheet to the table.\n\nNow proceed to your design software, such as Inkscape, to create a vector file, or download one from thenounproject.com.\n\nDownload the SVG file and import it into Easel.\n\nProceed by selecting your desired carving or cutting width and initiate the cutting [filtered]:\n\n- Ensure the sheet is securely fixed.\n- Specify the cutting bit; for this, we use a 1/8 inch (3.175 mm) flat flute bit.\n- Set the origin point at the bottom-left corner as coordinate 0-0.\n- Elevate the bit and activate the CNC Router.\n\nThen, the process begins!\n\nTake your glasses or object, complete any necessary finishing steps, and then share the results with friends and family.\n\nYou can attempt this project using various types of CNC machines or manual routers and saws. Sharing your work encourages community growth and collaboration. Please contribute your ideas and comments.", - "keywords": "HDPE sheet cutting, X-Carve CNC, Easel CAM Software, CNC milling tutorial, HDPE 2-Colors, CNC clamps, Inkscape design software, vector file creation, CNC Router setup, CNC machine projects" + "content": "In this how to, I will show you our process to cut HDPE Sheets using a X-Carve CNC.\n\nHere is the full video in spanish with subtitles https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4LrrFz802To \n\n\nUser Location: Mexico City, Mexico\n\nFor this step we need to measure our plastic sheet: Height, Width and Thickness. Our X-Carve machine works with the CAM Software EASEL, for me, the easiest software for CNC milling out there. \n\nThe cool thing about Easel (easel.inventables.com: easel.inventables.com/) is that you can \"simulate\" your actual material and THEY EVEN HAVE HDPE 2-Colors in their cutting material lists!!\n\n\n\n\nUsing the CNC clamps from the X-Carve, secure the sheet to the table, \n\nNow we go to our illustrator, such as Inkscape to design a vector file or download and open source one frome thenounproject.com: thenounproject.com\n\nWe download the SVG file, which is an open source vector format and import it to Easel. \n\n\nNow with the file we can choose the width we want to carve/cut and then we go to cut and start the wizzard:\n- We check that the sheet is fixed.\n- We also specify the cutting bit, we are using a 1/8 flat flute bit. \n- We tell the machine where the coordinate 0-0 is, which we always choose as the down left corner.\n- We raise the bit, turn on the CNC Router!!!\n\nAND PUM THE MAGIC BEGINS!!\n\nYou take now your glasses or object and postprocess them and of course show it to your friends, family and so on.\n\n\n\n\nYou can try this project with other types of CNC machines, even manual Routers or manual saw, as I did on this video: youtu.be: youtu.be/gxkcffQD3eQ, but the important thing is that you share what you do and help this community to grow!!!\n\nShare your ideas and comments!" } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/design-an-injection-mould/README.md b/howtos/design-an-injection-mould/README.md index 4543dfe3f..cce48ec20 100644 --- a/howtos/design-an-injection-mould/README.md +++ b/howtos/design-an-injection-mould/README.md @@ -1,131 +1,123 @@ --- title: Design an injection mould slug: design-an-injection-mould -description: # Design Guide for a Broom Hanger Mold - -This guide outlines the steps to design a mold for an injection machine. +description: An experience review designing a broom hanger mold: These are some steps to design a mold for the injection machine. tags: ["injection","mould"] category: Guides difficulty: Medium time: < 1 week -keywords: broom hanger mold, injection mold design, injection machine, precise measurements, clamping system design, mold assembly, material measurements, standard measurements Colombia, CAD software mold design, mold parts list +keywords: location: Bogota, Colombia --- # Design an injection mould ![Design an injection mould](howto-broomhanger-mould-0.jpg) -# Design Guide for a Broom Hanger Mold - -This guide outlines the steps to design a mold for an injection machine. +An experience review designing a broom hanger mold: These are some steps to design a mold for the injection machine. User Location: Bogota, Colombia ## Steps ### Step 1: Measure existing dimensions -Ensure accuracy from the start. When designing a product to fit with an existing item, take precise measurements from it to establish a correct baseline. For this broom hanger, I measured broom and mop diameters, ranging from 0.83 to 0.94 inches (21-24 mm). I will use the smaller measurement of 0.83 inches (21 mm) as a reference for the clamping system design. +Be sure to get things accurate from the beginning! If your product is designed to fit with an existing object, take all of the measures from it, so that you start from the right point. For this broom hanger, I measured the diameters of different brooms and mops, ranging from 21-24mm. As the product will be a clamping system, I’ll use the smaller measurement of 21mm as a reference. ![howto-broomhanger-mould-1.jpg](./howto-broomhanger-mould-1.jpg) ### Step 2: Sketch out your product idea -### How to Develop a Design +It can be difficult to get an idea down on paper in the beginning, but it’s equally hard to formulate your design without a drawing. Let’s start with your imagination. Register on paper all the details that you can think of to create a good design. +Especially consider important aspects like the wall thickness. Influencing factors for this will include +A) The required injection pressure, +B) required flexibility of the product itself, and +C) resistance and durability of the material -Initiating a design begins with outlining your ideas on paper. Document all essential details to shape an effective design. Particular attention should be given to aspects such as wall thickness, which influences: -- Required injection pressure -- Product flexibility -- Material resistance and durability - -To address these aspects, examine and compare materials from previously developed products. +For this purpose, I use previous products I’ve developed to examine and compare the material. ![howto-broomhanger-mould-2.jpg](./howto-broomhanger-mould-2.jpg) ### Step 3: “Mold” your idea -### Mold Design for Product Shape +What will define your product shape? As this broom hanger will be made with the injection machine, I have to think in an enclosed mold. With the product idea I’ve drawn before, I start designing the mold, looking for the best solution for each of these 6 Mold Design -The broom hanger will be created using an injection machine, necessitating an enclosed mold. With the previously sketched product concept, I proceed to design the mold, focusing on six key criteria: +Criteria: +1) Define the product shape, +2) Use standard measures, +3) Receive the plastic and connect the mold, +4) Open after injection and eject the product, +5) Adjust and closure, and +6) Simplify the machining process. -1. **Define the Product Shape:** Ensure the mold accurately reflects the intended design. -2. **Use Standard Measures:** Adhere to typical size specifications. -3. **Facilitate Plastic Intake and Mold Connection:** Ensure efficient material flow and secure connection. -4. **Allow for Opening and Ejection Post-Injection:** Design for easy removal of the finished product. -5. **Enable Adjustment and Closure:** Ensure precise alignment and secure closing mechanisms. -6. **Simplify the Machining Process:** Design for ease of manufacturing and operation. +I’ll explain each in the next steps. -Each criterion will be detailed in the subsequent steps. ![howto-broomhanger-mould-0.jpg](./howto-broomhanger-mould-0.jpg) ### Step 4: Define the product shape -Certainly, here is the revised text: +This is thinking on what shapes are going to create the cavity inside the mold. For this product, there are basically three pieces: +A cylinder (part 1) for the space of the broomstick, +concentric with a circular tube (part 2) which contains the outside of the hanger, +and a block (part 3) to cut the inner space and create the opening. ---- - -Consider the shapes that will form the cavity inside the mold. For this product, there are three components: - -1. A cylinder (part 1) for the broomstick space. -2. A concentric circular tube (part 2) for the exterior of the hanger. -3. A block (part 3) to form the inner space and create an opening. - -Next, select the standard bars or tubes to use. +With this, I’m starting to think in the standard bars and/or tubes I will use. ![howto-broomhanger-mould-4.jpg](./howto-broomhanger-mould-4.jpg) ### Step 5: Use standard measures -### Material Measurements for Makers +In my country (Colombia) the material dimensions mostly come in Inches (metal bar sections, steel planks thicknesses…), so are easier and cheaper to find. Adapting your measurements to the standard ones will avoid paying for excess material that you will then have to pay to remove. +So for the inner cylinder, I’ll use a ¾ inch rod (19,05mm), close enough to the 21mm of the broomstick. For the outer wall, I’ll use a 1 inch tube (25,4mm), so the thickness of the broom hanger will be approximately ⅛ inch (3.17mm). +Explore your local metal market and find which measures fit better for you! -In Colombia, materials such as metal bars and steel planks are commonly available in inches, which often makes them more accessible and cost-effective. Adapting to these standard measurements can help you avoid unnecessary expenses. - -For the inner cylinder, consider using a ¾ inch (19.05 mm) rod, which closely matches the 21 mm broomstick size. For the outer wall, a 1 inch (25.4 mm) tube is recommended, resulting in an approximate broom hanger thickness of ⅛ inch (3.17 mm). - -Investigate your local market to identify the most suitable measurements for your project. ![howto-broomhanger-mould-5.jpg](./howto-broomhanger-mould-5.jpg) ### Step 6: Plastic flow and mold connection -Consider the flow of plastic within the mold. The path should be as short as possible with sufficient space for complete distribution. Drill a ¼ inch (6.35 mm) hole for entry, with a maximum height of 0.39 inches (10 mm), positioned centrally to ensure even distribution. For the broom hanger, fill the mold from its center. To connect the mold to the injection machine, use half of a standard ½ inch (12.7 mm) pipe nipple, welded to a flange that attaches to the mold with closing screws. +Think about how the plastic will flow inside the mold. The path has to be as short as possible and with enough space for the plastic to flow throughout the entire mold. +For the entrance, I usually drill a ¼ inch hole with a maximum of 10mm height. The location should be in the center, so that the plastic can be distributed equally in each direction inside the mold. For the broom hanger, I chose to fill the mold from the center of its body. +To connect the mold to the injection machine, half of a standard ½ inch pipe nipple is used. Welded to a flange that can be attached to the mold (hopefully) with the closing screws. + ![howto-broomhanger-mould-6.jpg](./howto-broomhanger-mould-6.jpg) ### Step 7: Open after injection and expluse the product -As the plastic solidifies into the product, ensure the mold can be opened to release it. The mold should split into several parts for this purpose. However, fewer parts result in a simpler, more stable, and cost-effective mold. For the broom hanger, which functions as a hook, consider using three pieces: two for the exterior, which split in half to release the product, and one for the interior that will hold the broomstick and be removed by pulling it out. +As the plastic solidifies into the product, you have to be able to open the mold and take it out. This means that the mold must split into several parts to release the product. But, a less number of parts means an easier to assemble, more steady and cheaper mold. So keep it simple! For the broom hanger, as the product works as a hook, I’m thinking of three pieces: two to form the exterior of the hanger, which splits in half to release the product; and another one to form the interior that will receive the broomstick, and will be released at the end pulling it out just as it will release the broom. + ![howto-broomhanger-mould-7.jpg](./howto-broomhanger-mould-7.jpg) ### Step 8: Adjust and close -### Mold Assembly and Alignment +One thing is to align the mold parts accurately and the other is to ensure that it withstands injection pressure without opening or displacing. To adjust and align, I use male/female guides between the parts so they will fit in place and support the injection pressure. Conic dowels are ideal and are a great help during the mold assembly to hold everything in place. To close the mould and bear the injection pressure, I use through screws that hold the mold parts tightly. I drill the mold holes a bit wider than the screws (for ¼” screws, I drill a 5/16” hole) so the disassembly will be easier even if a mould part gets displaced during the injection process. It is also a great idea to open the screw hole side, so the screw can be taken out by the side, only by loosening the bolts a bit and avoiding to have to loosen them completely. -To ensure proper alignment and withstand injection pressure, employ male/female guides between mold parts for a secure fit. Conic dowels are effective in maintaining alignment during assembly. For closure and pressure resistance, use through screws to tightly secure mold parts. Drill mold holes slightly larger than the screws (for 1/4-inch screws, drill 5/16-inch holes) to facilitate easier disassembly if parts shift during injection. Additionally, consider opening the screw hole side to allow screw removal by slightly loosening the bolts, avoiding the need for full removal. ![howto-broomhanger-mould-8.jpg](./howto-broomhanger-mould-8.jpg) ### Step 9: Simplify the machining process -Design your products using basic shapes such as cubes, cylinders, cones, and straight lines. These shapes are straightforward to create with manual lathes and mills. Utilizing concentric, aligned, and perpendicular figures enhances the machining process. Simplicity in design leads to simplicity in execution. Use standard measurements; for example, holes matching a drill bit's size and grooves matching a milling cutter's width allow for faster, more precise work. For instance, a broom hanger can be designed as a straight plastic tube with an opening on one side, involving straightforward line milling and circular hole creation for the mold parts. +Design your products with basic shapes. Cubes, Cylinders, Cones and Straight Lines are shapes easy to create with manual lattes and mills. Concentric, aligned and perpendicular figures improve the machining process. Minimalism in the design results in minimalism in the process. Also, design with standard measures. Holes of the size of a drilling bit, canals of the width of a milling cutter can be done faster and with more precision. So the broom hanger product is going to be basically a straight plastic tube with an opening on one side. This means straight lines milling and circular holes to create all the mold parts. + ![howto-broomhanger-mould-9..jpg](./howto-broomhanger-mould-9..jpg) ### Step 10: Use the PC tools -We aim for greater precision than paper allows, so we utilize CAD software to model mold dimensions accurately. Continuing from the previous step, CAD enables us to create and refine mold versions based on the six design criteria. +We’re looking for more accuracy than we can create on paper, so to get the real dimensions of the cuts and machining, now we can model our mold using CAD software. At this point we are continuing on our process from the previous step, just with a different tool. Using CAD we can model different versions of the mold and shape new or improved versions, stemming from the 6 Mold Design Criteria. + +Here some of the decisions I made during the process and mold design: +- The best location for the injection point is in the middle of the body of the product. +- To avoid the risk of pressure opening the mold, the injection point is better in a solid part than at the joining of the mold. +- The flange with the nipple connector should be attached over a flat face of the mold with the same closing screws. -Here are some decisions made during the mold design process: -- The injection point should be centrally located on the product's body. -- To prevent pressure from opening the mold, the injection point should be on a solid section, not at the mold's seam. -- The flange with the nipple connector should be affixed to a flat mold face using the same closing screws. ![howto-broomhanger-mould-10-1.jpg](./howto-broomhanger-mould-10-1.jpg) @@ -135,68 +127,23 @@ Here are some decisions made during the mold design process: ### Step 11: Document it -The design process should culminate in detailed drawings and a comprehensive parts list. Consider the machining steps to identify critical procedures, such as machining parts together for precise fitting and determining fixation methods to the machine. Document all this information in the drawings. +The design should conclude in drawings and a part list. Think on the step by step of the machining to identify the critical procedures (for example, when parts should be machined together to get an accurate fitting; or, how they will be fixed to the machine) and register all that information in the drawings. + +Do the part list for all the raw materials to work as a shopping list. Include dimension and quantity. (Remember to buy the raw parts a bit longer than the final parts. Between 5 and 10mm will be enough to fix the parts in the machines and adjust to the final measure). -Create a parts list for all raw materials as a shopping guide. Include dimensions and quantities. Purchase raw parts slightly longer (0.2 to 0.4 inches) than final dimensions to accommodate machine fixation and final adjustments. ![howto-broomhanger-mould-11.jpg](./howto-broomhanger-mould-11.jpg) ### Step 12: Turn it into reality -With your mold design ready, proceed to construct it and create your product. Follow the instructions in the "Make a Broom Hanger" guide, or use these tips to develop an original idea. +Now that you have the design for your mold it's time to actually build it and make your product. +You can find the building process of this broom hanger in this How-to "Make a broom hanger" ( or use these tips to come up with your own idea :) + + ![howto-broom-hanger-cover.jpg](./howto-broom-hanger-cover.jpg) ## Resources -### Tools - -- Manual lathe (e.g., [Grizzly Industrial](https://www.grizzly.com/)) -- Milling machine (e.g., [Jet Tools](https://www.jettools.com/)) -- Drill press (e.g., [DEWALT](https://www.dewalt.com/)) -- Welding equipment (e.g., [Lincoln Electric](https://www.lincolnelectric.com/)) -- Standard drill bits/milling cutters (e.g., [Grainger](https://www.grainger.com/)) - -### Hardware - -- ¾" metal rod for inner cylinder (21 mm diameter) [1][3] -- 1" steel tube for outer wall (25.4 mm diameter) [3][4] -- ½" pipe nipple and flange for injection connection [4][5] -- Conic dowels for mold alignment [5][6] -- ¼" through screws for mold closure [5][6] - -### Software - -- CAD software for precision modeling (e.g., [Autodesk Fusion 360](https://www.autodesk.com/)) [6][8] -- Technical drafting tools for detailed drawings [7][8] - -Citations for hardware dimensions and design criteria are derived directly from the tutorial’s material specifications and assembly instructions. -## References -## References - -### Articles - -- [Injection Molding: The Manufacturing & Design Guide](https://www.hubs.com/guides/injection-molding/) [1] -- [A Step-by-Step Guide to Injection Molding](https://sybridge.com/injection-molding-guide/) [3] -- [DIY Injection Molding: How to Mold Plastic Parts In-House](https://formlabs.com/blog/diy-injection-molding/) [6] -- [Injection Moulding - Wikipedia](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Injection_moulding) [8] - -### Books - -- [Books by Beaumont Technologies](https://www.beaumontinc.com/about/books-by-beaumont/) [4] - -### Papers - -- [Injection Molding of Polymers and Polymer Composites - PMC](https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC11244112/) [5] - -### YouTube - -- [Injection Molding: Mold Design & Making](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MhoAIDz4Bhw) [7] -- [Beginner to Advanced: How to Create a Mold (Part 1)](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_hgmwhde1So) [14] - -### Open-Source Designs - -- ~~[Gravity Broom Holder by LoboCNC](https://www.printables.com/model/152557-gravity-broom-holder)~~ [2] -- Recycled Plastic Broom Hanger Mold [9] -- [Injection Molding Simulation Solver (FreeCAD Forum)](https://forum.freecad.org/viewtopic.php?t=56446) [12] \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/design-an-injection-mould/config.json b/howtos/design-an-injection-mould/config.json index 1dc91d2f2..9b33b6b45 100644 --- a/howtos/design-an-injection-mould/config.json +++ b/howtos/design-an-injection-mould/config.json @@ -18,7 +18,7 @@ { "_animationKey": "unique1", "title": "Measure existing dimensions", - "text": "Ensure accuracy from the start. When designing a product to fit with an existing item, take precise measurements from it to establish a correct baseline. For this broom hanger, I measured broom and mop diameters, ranging from 0.83 to 0.94 inches (21-24 mm). I will use the smaller measurement of 0.83 inches (21 mm) as a reference for the clamping system design.", + "text": "Be sure to get things accurate from the beginning! If your product is designed to fit with an existing object, take all of the measures from it, so that you start from the right point. For this broom hanger, I measured the diameters of different brooms and mops, ranging from 21-24mm. As the product will be a clamping system, I’ll use the smaller measurement of 21mm as a reference.", "images": [ { "contentType": "image/jpeg", @@ -53,7 +53,7 @@ ], "_animationKey": "unique2", "title": "Sketch out your product idea", - "text": "### How to Develop a Design\n\nInitiating a design begins with outlining your ideas on paper. Document all essential details to shape an effective design. Particular attention should be given to aspects such as wall thickness, which influences:\n- Required injection pressure\n- Product flexibility\n- Material resistance and durability\n\nTo address these aspects, examine and compare materials from previously developed products." + "text": "It can be difficult to get an idea down on paper in the beginning, but it’s equally hard to formulate your design without a drawing. Let’s start with your imagination. Register on paper all the details that you can think of to create a good design.\nEspecially consider important aspects like the wall thickness. Influencing factors for this will include \nA) The required injection pressure,\nB) required flexibility of the product itself, and \nC) resistance and durability of the material\n\nFor this purpose, I use previous products I’ve developed to examine and compare the material." }, { "title": "“Mold” your idea", @@ -73,7 +73,7 @@ "alt": "howto-broomhanger-mould-0.jpg" } ], - "text": "### Mold Design for Product Shape\n\nThe broom hanger will be created using an injection machine, necessitating an enclosed mold. With the previously sketched product concept, I proceed to design the mold, focusing on six key criteria:\n\n1. **Define the Product Shape:** Ensure the mold accurately reflects the intended design.\n2. **Use Standard Measures:** Adhere to typical size specifications.\n3. **Facilitate Plastic Intake and Mold Connection:** Ensure efficient material flow and secure connection.\n4. **Allow for Opening and Ejection Post-Injection:** Design for easy removal of the finished product.\n5. **Enable Adjustment and Closure:** Ensure precise alignment and secure closing mechanisms.\n6. **Simplify the Machining Process:** Design for ease of manufacturing and operation.\n\nEach criterion will be detailed in the subsequent steps." + "text": "What will define your product shape? As this broom hanger will be made with the injection machine, I have to think in an enclosed mold. With the product idea I’ve drawn before, I start designing the mold, looking for the best solution for each of these 6 Mold Design \n\nCriteria:\n1) Define the product shape, \n2) Use standard measures, \n3) Receive the plastic and connect the mold,\n4) Open after injection and eject the product,\n5) Adjust and closure, and\n6) Simplify the machining process.\n\nI’ll explain each in the next steps.\n" }, { "images": [ @@ -90,14 +90,14 @@ "alt": "howto-broomhanger-mould-4.jpg" } ], - "text": "Certainly, here is the revised text:\n\n---\n\nConsider the shapes that will form the cavity inside the mold. For this product, there are three components: \n\n1. A cylinder (part 1) for the broomstick space.\n2. A concentric circular tube (part 2) for the exterior of the hanger.\n3. A block (part 3) to form the inner space and create an opening. \n\nNext, select the standard bars or tubes to use.", + "text": "This is thinking on what shapes are going to create the cavity inside the mold. For this product, there are basically three pieces:\nA cylinder (part 1) for the space of the broomstick,\nconcentric with a circular tube (part 2) which contains the outside of the hanger,\nand a block (part 3) to cut the inner space and create the opening. \n\nWith this, I’m starting to think in the standard bars and/or tubes I will use.", "title": "Define the product shape", "_animationKey": "unique5ffhfi" }, { "_animationKey": "uniquert7xgb", "title": "Use standard measures", - "text": "### Material Measurements for Makers\n\nIn Colombia, materials such as metal bars and steel planks are commonly available in inches, which often makes them more accessible and cost-effective. Adapting to these standard measurements can help you avoid unnecessary expenses. \n\nFor the inner cylinder, consider using a ¾ inch (19.05 mm) rod, which closely matches the 21 mm broomstick size. For the outer wall, a 1 inch (25.4 mm) tube is recommended, resulting in an approximate broom hanger thickness of ⅛ inch (3.17 mm).\n\nInvestigate your local market to identify the most suitable measurements for your project.", + "text": "In my country (Colombia) the material dimensions mostly come in Inches (metal bar sections, steel planks thicknesses…), so are easier and cheaper to find. Adapting your measurements to the standard ones will avoid paying for excess material that you will then have to pay to remove.\nSo for the inner cylinder, I’ll use a ¾ inch rod (19,05mm), close enough to the 21mm of the broomstick. For the outer wall, I’ll use a 1 inch tube (25,4mm), so the thickness of the broom hanger will be approximately ⅛ inch (3.17mm).\nExplore your local metal market and find which measures fit better for you!\n", "images": [ { "name": "howto-broomhanger-mould-5.jpg", @@ -129,11 +129,11 @@ } ], "title": "Plastic flow and mold connection", - "text": "Consider the flow of plastic within the mold. The path should be as short as possible with sufficient space for complete distribution. Drill a ¼ inch (6.35 mm) hole for entry, with a maximum height of 0.39 inches (10 mm), positioned centrally to ensure even distribution. For the broom hanger, fill the mold from its center. To connect the mold to the injection machine, use half of a standard ½ inch (12.7 mm) pipe nipple, welded to a flange that attaches to the mold with closing screws.", + "text": "Think about how the plastic will flow inside the mold. The path has to be as short as possible and with enough space for the plastic to flow throughout the entire mold.\nFor the entrance, I usually drill a ¼ inch hole with a maximum of 10mm height. The location should be in the center, so that the plastic can be distributed equally in each direction inside the mold. For the broom hanger, I chose to fill the mold from the center of its body.\nTo connect the mold to the injection machine, half of a standard ½ inch pipe nipple is used. Welded to a flange that can be attached to the mold (hopefully) with the closing screws.\n", "_animationKey": "uniquer8pdig" }, { - "text": "As the plastic solidifies into the product, ensure the mold can be opened to release it. The mold should split into several parts for this purpose. However, fewer parts result in a simpler, more stable, and cost-effective mold. For the broom hanger, which functions as a hook, consider using three pieces: two for the exterior, which split in half to release the product, and one for the interior that will hold the broomstick and be removed by pulling it out.", + "text": "As the plastic solidifies into the product, you have to be able to open the mold and take it out. This means that the mold must split into several parts to release the product. But, a less number of parts means an easier to assemble, more steady and cheaper mold. So keep it simple! For the broom hanger, as the product works as a hook, I’m thinking of three pieces: two to form the exterior of the hanger, which splits in half to release the product; and another one to form the interior that will receive the broomstick, and will be released at the end pulling it out just as it will release the broom.\n", "title": "Open after injection and expluse the product", "images": [ { @@ -168,7 +168,7 @@ } ], "_animationKey": "uniquemw0p1d", - "text": "### Mold Assembly and Alignment\n\nTo ensure proper alignment and withstand injection pressure, employ male/female guides between mold parts for a secure fit. Conic dowels are effective in maintaining alignment during assembly. For closure and pressure resistance, use through screws to tightly secure mold parts. Drill mold holes slightly larger than the screws (for 1/4-inch screws, drill 5/16-inch holes) to facilitate easier disassembly if parts shift during injection. Additionally, consider opening the screw hole side to allow screw removal by slightly loosening the bolts, avoiding the need for full removal." + "text": "One thing is to align the mold parts accurately and the other is to ensure that it withstands injection pressure without opening or displacing. To adjust and align, I use male/female guides between the parts so they will fit in place and support the injection pressure. Conic dowels are ideal and are a great help during the mold assembly to hold everything in place. To close the mould and bear the injection pressure, I use through screws that hold the mold parts tightly. I drill the mold holes a bit wider than the screws (for ¼” screws, I drill a 5/16” hole) so the disassembly will be easier even if a mould part gets displaced during the injection process. It is also a great idea to open the screw hole side, so the screw can be taken out by the side, only by loosening the bolts a bit and avoiding to have to loosen them completely.\n" }, { "images": [ @@ -186,7 +186,7 @@ } ], "title": "Simplify the machining process", - "text": "Design your products using basic shapes such as cubes, cylinders, cones, and straight lines. These shapes are straightforward to create with manual lathes and mills. Utilizing concentric, aligned, and perpendicular figures enhances the machining process. Simplicity in design leads to simplicity in execution. Use standard measurements; for example, holes matching a drill bit's size and grooves matching a milling cutter's width allow for faster, more precise work. For instance, a broom hanger can be designed as a straight plastic tube with an opening on one side, involving straightforward line milling and circular hole creation for the mold parts.", + "text": "Design your products with basic shapes. Cubes, Cylinders, Cones and Straight Lines are shapes easy to create with manual lattes and mills. Concentric, aligned and perpendicular figures improve the machining process. Minimalism in the design results in minimalism in the process. Also, design with standard measures. Holes of the size of a drilling bit, canals of the width of a milling cutter can be done faster and with more precision. So the broom hanger product is going to be basically a straight plastic tube with an opening on one side. This means straight lines milling and circular holes to create all the mold parts.\n", "_animationKey": "unique8xldds" }, { @@ -218,7 +218,7 @@ } ], "_animationKey": "uniqueetee6o", - "text": "We aim for greater precision than paper allows, so we utilize CAD software to model mold dimensions accurately. Continuing from the previous step, CAD enables us to create and refine mold versions based on the six design criteria.\n\nHere are some decisions made during the mold design process:\n- The injection point should be centrally located on the product's body.\n- To prevent pressure from opening the mold, the injection point should be on a solid section, not at the mold's seam.\n- The flange with the nipple connector should be affixed to a flat mold face using the same closing screws." + "text": "We’re looking for more accuracy than we can create on paper, so to get the real dimensions of the cuts and machining, now we can model our mold using CAD software. At this point we are continuing on our process from the previous step, just with a different tool. Using CAD we can model different versions of the mold and shape new or improved versions, stemming from the 6 Mold Design Criteria. \n\nHere some of the decisions I made during the process and mold design: \n- The best location for the injection point is in the middle of the body of the product. \n- To avoid the risk of pressure opening the mold, the injection point is better in a solid part than at the joining of the mold.\n- The flange with the nipple connector should be attached over a flat face of the mold with the same closing screws.\n" }, { "images": [ @@ -236,7 +236,7 @@ } ], "title": "Document it", - "text": "The design process should culminate in detailed drawings and a comprehensive parts list. Consider the machining steps to identify critical procedures, such as machining parts together for precise fitting and determining fixation methods to the machine. Document all this information in the drawings.\n\nCreate a parts list for all raw materials as a shopping guide. Include dimensions and quantities. Purchase raw parts slightly longer (0.2 to 0.4 inches) than final dimensions to accommodate machine fixation and final adjustments.", + "text": "The design should conclude in drawings and a part list. Think on the step by step of the machining to identify the critical procedures (for example, when parts should be machined together to get an accurate fitting; or, how they will be fixed to the machine) and register all that information in the drawings.\n\nDo the part list for all the raw materials to work as a shopping list. Include dimension and quantity. (Remember to buy the raw parts a bit longer than the final parts. Between 5 and 10mm will be enough to fix the parts in the machines and adjust to the final measure).\n", "_animationKey": "uniquegkb9je" }, { @@ -255,7 +255,7 @@ } ], "_animationKey": "unique4omt67", - "text": "With your mold design ready, proceed to construct it and create your product. Follow the instructions in the \"Make a Broom Hanger\" guide, or use these tips to develop an original idea.", + "text": "Now that you have the design for your mold it's time to actually build it and make your product.\nYou can find the building process of this broom hanger in this How-to \"Make a broom hanger\" ( or use these tips to come up with your own idea :)\n\n", "title": "Turn it into reality" } ], @@ -276,7 +276,7 @@ "creatorName": "precious-plastic-genova" } ], - "description": "# Design Guide for a Broom Hanger Mold\n\nThis guide outlines the steps to design a mold for an injection machine.", + "description": "An experience review designing a broom hanger mold: These are some steps to design a mold for the injection machine.", "difficulty_level": "Medium", "files": [ null @@ -462,9 +462,5 @@ "urls": [] } }, - "content": "# Design Guide for a Broom Hanger Mold\n\nThis guide outlines the steps to design a mold for an injection machine.\n\n\nUser Location: Bogota, Colombia\n\nEnsure accuracy from the start. When designing a product to fit with an existing item, take precise measurements from it to establish a correct baseline. For this broom hanger, I measured broom and mop diameters, ranging from 0.83 to 0.94 inches (21-24 mm). I will use the smaller measurement of 0.83 inches (21 mm) as a reference for the clamping system design.\n\n### How to Develop a Design\n\nInitiating a design begins with outlining your ideas on paper. Document all essential details to shape an effective design. Particular attention should be given to aspects such as wall thickness, which influences:\n- Required injection pressure\n- Product flexibility\n- Material resistance and durability\n\nTo address these aspects, examine and compare materials from previously developed products.\n\n### Mold Design for Product Shape\n\nThe broom hanger will be created using an injection machine, necessitating an enclosed mold. With the previously sketched product concept, I proceed to design the mold, focusing on six key criteria:\n\n1. **Define the Product Shape:** Ensure the mold accurately reflects the intended design.\n2. **Use Standard Measures:** Adhere to typical size specifications.\n3. **Facilitate Plastic Intake and Mold Connection:** Ensure efficient material flow and secure connection.\n4. **Allow for Opening and Ejection Post-Injection:** Design for easy removal of the finished product.\n5. **Enable Adjustment and Closure:** Ensure precise alignment and secure closing mechanisms.\n6. **Simplify the Machining Process:** Design for ease of manufacturing and operation.\n\nEach criterion will be detailed in the subsequent steps.\n\nCertainly, here is the revised text:\n\n---\n\nConsider the shapes that will form the cavity inside the mold. For this product, there are three components: \n\n1. A cylinder (part 1) for the broomstick space.\n2. A concentric circular tube (part 2) for the exterior of the hanger.\n3. A block (part 3) to form the inner space and create an opening. \n\nNext, select the standard bars or tubes to use.\n\n### Material Measurements for Makers\n\nIn Colombia, materials such as metal bars and steel planks are commonly available in inches, which often makes them more accessible and cost-effective. Adapting to these standard measurements can help you avoid unnecessary expenses. \n\nFor the inner cylinder, consider using a ¾ inch (19.05 mm) rod, which closely matches the 21 mm broomstick size. For the outer wall, a 1 inch (25.4 mm) tube is recommended, resulting in an approximate broom hanger thickness of ⅛ inch (3.17 mm).\n\nInvestigate your local market to identify the most suitable measurements for your project.\n\nConsider the flow of plastic within the mold. The path should be as short as possible with sufficient space for complete distribution. Drill a ¼ inch (6.35 mm) hole for entry, with a maximum height of 0.39 inches (10 mm), positioned centrally to ensure even distribution. For the broom hanger, fill the mold from its center. To connect the mold to the injection machine, use half of a standard ½ inch (12.7 mm) pipe nipple, welded to a flange that attaches to the mold with closing screws.\n\nAs the plastic solidifies into the product, ensure the mold can be opened to release it. The mold should split into several parts for this purpose. However, fewer parts result in a simpler, more stable, and cost-effective mold. For the broom hanger, which functions as a hook, consider using three pieces: two for the exterior, which split in half to release the product, and one for the interior that will hold the broomstick and be removed by pulling it out.\n\n### Mold Assembly and Alignment\n\nTo ensure proper alignment and withstand injection pressure, employ male/female guides between mold parts for a secure fit. Conic dowels are effective in maintaining alignment during assembly. For closure and pressure resistance, use through screws to tightly secure mold parts. Drill mold holes slightly larger than the screws (for 1/4-inch screws, drill 5/16-inch holes) to facilitate easier disassembly if parts shift during injection. Additionally, consider opening the screw hole side to allow screw removal by slightly loosening the bolts, avoiding the need for full removal.\n\nDesign your products using basic shapes such as cubes, cylinders, cones, and straight lines. These shapes are straightforward to create with manual lathes and mills. Utilizing concentric, aligned, and perpendicular figures enhances the machining process. Simplicity in design leads to simplicity in execution. Use standard measurements; for example, holes matching a drill bit's size and grooves matching a milling cutter's width allow for faster, more precise work. For instance, a broom hanger can be designed as a straight plastic tube with an opening on one side, involving straightforward line milling and circular hole creation for the mold parts.\n\nWe aim for greater precision than paper allows, so we utilize CAD software to model mold dimensions accurately. Continuing from the previous step, CAD enables us to create and refine mold versions based on the six design criteria.\n\nHere are some decisions made during the mold design process:\n- The injection point should be centrally located on the product's body.\n- To prevent pressure from opening the mold, the injection point should be on a solid section, not at the mold's seam.\n- The flange with the nipple connector should be affixed to a flat mold face using the same closing screws.\n\nThe design process should culminate in detailed drawings and a comprehensive parts list. Consider the machining steps to identify critical procedures, such as machining parts together for precise fitting and determining fixation methods to the machine. Document all this information in the drawings.\n\nCreate a parts list for all raw materials as a shopping guide. Include dimensions and quantities. Purchase raw parts slightly longer (0.2 to 0.4 inches) than final dimensions to accommodate machine fixation and final adjustments.\n\nWith your mold design ready, proceed to construct it and create your product. Follow the instructions in the \"Make a Broom Hanger\" guide, or use these tips to develop an original idea.", - "keywords": "broom hanger mold, injection mold design, injection machine, precise measurements, clamping system design, mold assembly, material measurements, standard measurements Colombia, CAD software mold design, mold parts list", - "resources": "### Tools\n\n- Manual lathe (e.g., [Grizzly Industrial](https://www.grizzly.com/))\n- Milling machine (e.g., [Jet Tools](https://www.jettools.com/))\n- Drill press (e.g., [DEWALT](https://www.dewalt.com/))\n- Welding equipment (e.g., [Lincoln Electric](https://www.lincolnelectric.com/))\n- Standard drill bits/milling cutters (e.g., [Grainger](https://www.grainger.com/))\n\n### Hardware\n\n- ¾\" metal rod for inner cylinder (21 mm diameter) [1][3]\n- 1\" steel tube for outer wall (25.4 mm diameter) [3][4]\n- ½\" pipe nipple and flange for injection connection [4][5]\n- Conic dowels for mold alignment [5][6]\n- ¼\" through screws for mold closure [5][6]\n\n### Software\n\n- CAD software for precision modeling (e.g., [Autodesk Fusion 360](https://www.autodesk.com/)) [6][8]\n- Technical drafting tools for detailed drawings [7][8]\n\nCitations for hardware dimensions and design criteria are derived directly from the tutorial’s material specifications and assembly instructions.", - "references": "## References\n\n### Articles\n\n- [Injection Molding: The Manufacturing & Design Guide](https://www.hubs.com/guides/injection-molding/) [1]\n- [A Step-by-Step Guide to Injection Molding](https://sybridge.com/injection-molding-guide/) [3]\n- [DIY Injection Molding: How to Mold Plastic Parts In-House](https://formlabs.com/blog/diy-injection-molding/) [6]\n- [Injection Moulding - Wikipedia](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Injection_moulding) [8]\n\n### Books\n\n- [Books by Beaumont Technologies](https://www.beaumontinc.com/about/books-by-beaumont/) [4]\n\n### Papers\n\n- [Injection Molding of Polymers and Polymer Composites - PMC](https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC11244112/) [5]\n\n### YouTube\n\n- [Injection Molding: Mold Design & Making](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MhoAIDz4Bhw) [7]\n- [Beginner to Advanced: How to Create a Mold (Part 1)](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_hgmwhde1So) [14]\n\n### Open-Source Designs\n\n- ~~[Gravity Broom Holder by LoboCNC](https://www.printables.com/model/152557-gravity-broom-holder)~~ [2]\n- Recycled Plastic Broom Hanger Mold [9]\n- [Injection Molding Simulation Solver (FreeCAD Forum)](https://forum.freecad.org/viewtopic.php?t=56446) [12]", - "brief": "Design a precise broom hanger mold using standard measures. Ensure efficient plastic flow, secure connections, and ease of manufacturing for injection machines." + "content": "An experience review designing a broom hanger mold: These are some steps to design a mold for the injection machine.\n\n\nUser Location: Bogota, Colombia\n\nBe sure to get things accurate from the beginning! If your product is designed to fit with an existing object, take all of the measures from it, so that you start from the right point. For this broom hanger, I measured the diameters of different brooms and mops, ranging from 21-24mm. As the product will be a clamping system, I’ll use the smaller measurement of 21mm as a reference.\n\nIt can be difficult to get an idea down on paper in the beginning, but it’s equally hard to formulate your design without a drawing. Let’s start with your imagination. Register on paper all the details that you can think of to create a good design.\nEspecially consider important aspects like the wall thickness. Influencing factors for this will include \nA) The required injection pressure,\nB) required flexibility of the product itself, and \nC) resistance and durability of the material\n\nFor this purpose, I use previous products I’ve developed to examine and compare the material.\n\nWhat will define your product shape? As this broom hanger will be made with the injection machine, I have to think in an enclosed mold. With the product idea I’ve drawn before, I start designing the mold, looking for the best solution for each of these 6 Mold Design \n\nCriteria:\n1) Define the product shape, \n2) Use standard measures, \n3) Receive the plastic and connect the mold,\n4) Open after injection and eject the product,\n5) Adjust and closure, and\n6) Simplify the machining process.\n\nI’ll explain each in the next steps.\n\n\nThis is thinking on what shapes are going to create the cavity inside the mold. For this product, there are basically three pieces:\nA cylinder (part 1) for the space of the broomstick,\nconcentric with a circular tube (part 2) which contains the outside of the hanger,\nand a block (part 3) to cut the inner space and create the opening. \n\nWith this, I’m starting to think in the standard bars and/or tubes I will use.\n\nIn my country (Colombia) the material dimensions mostly come in Inches (metal bar sections, steel planks thicknesses…), so are easier and cheaper to find. Adapting your measurements to the standard ones will avoid paying for excess material that you will then have to pay to remove.\nSo for the inner cylinder, I’ll use a ¾ inch rod (19,05mm), close enough to the 21mm of the broomstick. For the outer wall, I’ll use a 1 inch tube (25,4mm), so the thickness of the broom hanger will be approximately ⅛ inch (3.17mm).\nExplore your local metal market and find which measures fit better for you!\n\n\nThink about how the plastic will flow inside the mold. The path has to be as short as possible and with enough space for the plastic to flow throughout the entire mold.\nFor the entrance, I usually drill a ¼ inch hole with a maximum of 10mm height. The location should be in the center, so that the plastic can be distributed equally in each direction inside the mold. For the broom hanger, I chose to fill the mold from the center of its body.\nTo connect the mold to the injection machine, half of a standard ½ inch pipe nipple is used. Welded to a flange that can be attached to the mold (hopefully) with the closing screws.\n\n\nAs the plastic solidifies into the product, you have to be able to open the mold and take it out. This means that the mold must split into several parts to release the product. But, a less number of parts means an easier to assemble, more steady and cheaper mold. So keep it simple! For the broom hanger, as the product works as a hook, I’m thinking of three pieces: two to form the exterior of the hanger, which splits in half to release the product; and another one to form the interior that will receive the broomstick, and will be released at the end pulling it out just as it will release the broom.\n\n\nOne thing is to align the mold parts accurately and the other is to ensure that it withstands injection pressure without opening or displacing. To adjust and align, I use male/female guides between the parts so they will fit in place and support the injection pressure. Conic dowels are ideal and are a great help during the mold assembly to hold everything in place. To close the mould and bear the injection pressure, I use through screws that hold the mold parts tightly. I drill the mold holes a bit wider than the screws (for ¼” screws, I drill a 5/16” hole) so the disassembly will be easier even if a mould part gets displaced during the injection process. It is also a great idea to open the screw hole side, so the screw can be taken out by the side, only by loosening the bolts a bit and avoiding to have to loosen them completely.\n\n\nDesign your products with basic shapes. Cubes, Cylinders, Cones and Straight Lines are shapes easy to create with manual lattes and mills. Concentric, aligned and perpendicular figures improve the machining process. Minimalism in the design results in minimalism in the process. Also, design with standard measures. Holes of the size of a drilling bit, canals of the width of a milling cutter can be done faster and with more precision. So the broom hanger product is going to be basically a straight plastic tube with an opening on one side. This means straight lines milling and circular holes to create all the mold parts.\n\n\nWe’re looking for more accuracy than we can create on paper, so to get the real dimensions of the cuts and machining, now we can model our mold using CAD software. At this point we are continuing on our process from the previous step, just with a different tool. Using CAD we can model different versions of the mold and shape new or improved versions, stemming from the 6 Mold Design Criteria. \n\nHere some of the decisions I made during the process and mold design: \n- The best location for the injection point is in the middle of the body of the product. \n- To avoid the risk of pressure opening the mold, the injection point is better in a solid part than at the joining of the mold.\n- The flange with the nipple connector should be attached over a flat face of the mold with the same closing screws.\n\n\nThe design should conclude in drawings and a part list. Think on the step by step of the machining to identify the critical procedures (for example, when parts should be machined together to get an accurate fitting; or, how they will be fixed to the machine) and register all that information in the drawings.\n\nDo the part list for all the raw materials to work as a shopping list. Include dimension and quantity. (Remember to buy the raw parts a bit longer than the final parts. Between 5 and 10mm will be enough to fix the parts in the machines and adjust to the final measure).\n\n\nNow that you have the design for your mold it's time to actually build it and make your product.\nYou can find the building process of this broom hanger in this How-to \"Make a broom hanger\" ( or use these tips to come up with your own idea :)\n\n" } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/design-moulds-for-sunglasses/README.md b/howtos/design-moulds-for-sunglasses/README.md index acbafd7d1..e94a6fe90 100644 --- a/howtos/design-moulds-for-sunglasses/README.md +++ b/howtos/design-moulds-for-sunglasses/README.md @@ -1,109 +1,121 @@ --- title: Design moulds for sunglasses slug: design-moulds-for-sunglasses -description: For the past five years, Esfèrica has focused on maintaining the value of waste plastics. Our project, FOS Barcelona, produces eyewear from local waste and provides molds for others to produce them locally, promoting distributed design. +description: At Esfèrica we’ve been working to understand how to uphold the value of waste plastics for the past 5 years. Today, our project FOS Barcelona offers eyewear made with local waste and moulds for others to fabricate them in their area, in an effort to enhance distributed design. -This guide shares insights from our experience. +Here we’ll guide you through aspects we learned on our way. -1: Requirements -2-5: Sunglasses Design -6-10: Mold Design +1: What you need +2-5: Design sunglasses +6-10: Design mould tags: ["mould","injection","product"] category: uncategorized difficulty: Hard time: 3-4 weeks -keywords: Esfèrica, FOS Barcelona, eyewear design, waste plastics, distributed design, CNC milling machine, mold design, injection machine, local production, sustainable eyewear +keywords: location: Barcelona, Spain --- # Design moulds for sunglasses ![Design moulds for sunglasses](_IGP9762.jpg) -For the past five years, Esfèrica has focused on maintaining the value of waste plastics. Our project, FOS Barcelona, produces eyewear from local waste and provides molds for others to produce them locally, promoting distributed design. +At Esfèrica we’ve been working to understand how to uphold the value of waste plastics for the past 5 years. Today, our project FOS Barcelona offers eyewear made with local waste and moulds for others to fabricate them in their area, in an effort to enhance distributed design. -This guide shares insights from our experience. +Here we’ll guide you through aspects we learned on our way. -1: Requirements -2-5: Sunglasses Design -6-10: Mold Design +1: What you need +2-5: Design sunglasses +6-10: Design mould User Location: Barcelona, Spain ## Steps ### Step 1: What you need -To complete the process independently, you will need: - -1. A defined model concept. -2. A computer with CAD software experience. -3. Access to a quality CNC milling machine or a manufacturing partner. +To make all the process yourself, you will need: +1. A clear mind about the model you want to create. +2. A computer and some experience working with CAD software. +3. A good CNC milling machine or a manufacturing partner. 4. An injection machine. -Let's proceed with the steps. +Ok. Let’s dive into the steps then. + ![00.jpg](./00.jpg) ### Step 2: DESIGN THE SUNGLASSES -When designing eyewear, you can either choose bold designs aimed at a niche audience or opt for classic styles for broader appeal. Your decision depends on your goals. Once your target is set, you will need to make decisions about various components, as outlined in the following steps. +When designing eyewear you can go wild, and reach few, or start with the classics, and reach many. It only depends on your intentions to choose one way or another. + +Once you have a target chosen, you will need to make decisions regarding a couple of components, which we’ll go through in the next steps. + ![1.png](./1.png) ### Step 3: Sunglasses model - Hinges -Metal hinges: Common options include riveted (fixed with rivets), in-mold (placed before injection), screwed-in (attached post-injection with screws), and fused (secured post-injection with heat). Screw-in hinges are the easiest to detach after the product's lifespan. +Metal hinges: There are several metal hinges options in the market, being the most common riveted - fixed with rivets -, in mould - placed in the mould before every injection -, screwed in - inserted after the injection and fixed using screws -, and fused - inserted after injection using heat -. +Of all of them, the easiest to detach from the product once its lifespan is over, is the screw-in models and that is the reason we choose to use this one. + +Plastic hinges: See next step -Plastic hinges: See next step. ![22.PNG](./22.PNG) ### Step 4: Sunglasses model - Hinges -Plastic hinges can be manufactured using molds. This method avoids material mixtures and can offer durability comparable to metal hinges if designed correctly. However, the perceived quality might be a concern when creating products for sale, as perceptions can vary globally and are not always aligned with actual quality. +Plastic hinges: Made in the mould. This is the most sustainable choice. No materials mixtures and durability that might go beyond eyewear with metal hinges, if designed properly. The downside is the quality perception, a key point when developing products that need to sell, and a parameter that many times has no connection to actual quality, but rather with the different perceptions around materials and products present in each corner of the world. + ![3.PNG](./3.PNG) ### Step 5: Sunglasses model - Lenses -There is a wide variety of lenses available. Your choice depends on the intended use and type of eyewear. The main types are: +There is a wide variety of lenses in the market. Again, depending on your target and the type of eyewear you want to make you will choose one type or another. The main ones are the following, although there are many others for specific applications: + +Polycarbonate: Lenses for sports and action eyewear due to its resistance. +CR-39 (polymer): The most used type of lenses. +Mineral lenses: The glass lenses that are used less and less due to their weight and the fact that they break when falling. The main advantage is its scratch resistance. -- Polycarbonate: Suitable for sports and action eyewear due to durability. -- CR-39 (polymer): The most common type of lens. -- Mineral: Glass lenses, used less frequently due to weight and fragility, but offer high scratch resistance. ![4.png](./4.png) ### Step 6: Sunglasses Model - Base -Certainly. +Depending on the type of eyewear you will want the frame to have a bigger curvature to cover as much face as possible, or a completely flat frame, to follow the lastest of the fashion trends ;) ---- +The Base value is what is used to define this curvature. The higher the base number, the smaller the diameter of the curvature of the frame will be. Base nine is used for sport eyewear, which offers a pretty tight fit to protect the eyes as much as possible, whereas a base 2 is used for fashion eyewear where the frame is almost flat. + +Our Classic model used to be base 6. Our new models are base 4. -For eyewear design, the curvature of the frame is determined by the "Base" value. A higher base number results in a smaller curvature diameter. Base 9 is typical for sports eyewear, providing a snug fit to protect the eyes, while base 2 is used for fashion eyewear with a nearly flat appearance. -Previously, our Classic model featured a base of 6, whereas our new models utilize a base of 4. ![5.PNG](./5.PNG) ### Step 7: DESIGN THE MOULD -### Designing Molds for Eyewear +When designing moulds to make eyewear with [filtered] machinery you need to make a fine exercise of balancing costs and mould quality. +For a really good finished product with little post processing needed, high quality inscriptions and outstanding surface finishes, you will have to spend €€€. +For testing purposes you can mill the mould way faster and with simpler machines, saving quite a chunk. +It is vital to understand that it doesn’t make sense to make moulds that are as good as industrial moulds for the obvious reason that they will then be almost as expensive as industrial moulds! +We went for a high quality mould that will require a small amount of postprocessing. -When creating molds for eyewear using specific machinery, it is crucial to balance costs and mold quality. Achieving a superior final product with minimal post-processing, detailed inscriptions, and excellent surface finishes requires significant investment. -For testing, you can produce molds more rapidly with simpler machines, offering considerable savings. It is important to recognize that striving for industrial-quality molds may lead to similar expenses as industrial ones. Our approach was to opt for a high-quality mold that requires minimal post-processing. ![6.PNG](./6.PNG) ### Step 8: Parting lines -If choosing a cheaper mold, place parting lines at the edges to simplify post-processing and achieve satisfactory results. +If you go for a cheaper mould, then go for parting lines in the edge of the parts, making it easy to post process and to achieve good final results. + +If you go for a good mould, place them either way, since they will be good enough for you not to post process them or simply polish them slightly. In this case, design choices might be the parameters that will help you decide. The images you see show how to slightly hide the parting line by adding a round up, which will make the mould slightly more expensive (especially if you do this on small features that could want a few tool changes and a lot more time) or how to keep it simple. + + -For high-quality molds, the placement of parting lines is less critical as minimal post-processing, such as slight polishing, may be needed. Design choices can guide your decision. The images illustrate how to obscure parting lines with a rounding technique, which increases mold cost—particularly for small features requiring multiple tool changes and additional time—or how to maintain a simple design. ![7.PNG](./7.PNG) @@ -113,11 +125,10 @@ For high-quality molds, the placement of parting lines is less critical as minim ### Step 9: Closing system: How complex? -### Closing System: Complexity Overview - -A closing system enabling quicker production can be expensive. The clamping pressure in an injection mold is crucial for optimal results and mold longevity. Finding a system that is affordable, accommodates frequent mold changes, and provides adequate, evenly distributed pressure is challenging. - -Simple screws are a budget-friendly solution, offering excellent clamping pressure when correctly positioned. However, they may slow down the process of opening and closing the mold. We suggest beginning with screws to assess your actual requirements before considering other options. +Closing system: How complex? +A closing system that allows for faster productions can be very costly. The clamping pressure in an injection mould is vital for good results and mould life. It is, however, not easy to find a system that allows for constant mould change and high enough pressures, evenly distributed, at a low price. +Using simple screws is a good solution for a smaller budget: It’s cheap and offers a perfect clamping pressure if they are placed right. However, it will be slower to open and close the mould. +Our recommendation is to start with screws, understand your real needs, and work from there. ![9.PNG](./9.PNG) @@ -130,24 +141,26 @@ Simple screws are a budget-friendly solution, offering excellent clamping pressu ### Step 10: Surface finishings -### Surface Finishing Options for Molds +Depending on budget and intentions you can leave the tool paths, or bead blast or polish them. -1. **Tool Paths**: Leaving tool paths is cost-effective and allows for creative patterns by altering cutting directions. +1: Leaving the tool paths is the cheapest option. You can always play with the cutting direction to make patterns - the result can be pretty interesting. -2. **Bead Blasting**: Provides an even surface at a low cost but lacks a shiny finish. Standards vary regionally, so consult your manufacturing partner for guidance. +2: Bead blasting is the cheapest way to have an even surface in a mould. With this, however, it is not possible to get a shiny finish. There are several standards for bead blasting, varying for different parts of the world. Your manufacturing partner will be able to guide you through them. -3. **Polishing**: Achieves the smoothest finish but is the most expensive. Choose the appropriate grade for your needs. +3: Polishing offers the evenest result. As it is made by hand, it is also the most expensive one. Look for the grade you need. ![12.PNG](./12.PNG) ### Step 11: Logos and inscriptions -To finish your product, consider adding inscriptions to ensure recipients know its origin. Two main methods are: +To end your product, it is interesting to get awesome inscriptions on it and make sure whomever receives your product knows who made it. Two main options here: -1. Milling a logo or inscription. This approach limits production to one brand, but allows for high-quality inscriptions with minimal effort or time. The image shows molds made for Experiencia Emprendedora in Argentina. +1: Mill a logo or inscription of your brand, limiting the production to one brand name, but being able to have high quality inscriptions without extra efforts or time. The image shows the moulds we made for Experiencia Emprendedora from Argentina. -2. Using pressure-marking to imprint logos and inscriptions. While the quality is lower, this method allows the mold to be used for multiple projects and brands as you establish your brand, if desired. +2: Using the awesome Samsara’s method of pressure-marking your logos and inscriptions on the surfaces. The quality won’t be as high, but it will allow you to use the mould for a variety of projects and brands, while you establish yours (if that is your plan). + +Photo credits: samsaratrc ![13.png](./13.png) @@ -157,22 +170,23 @@ To finish your product, consider adding inscriptions to ensure recipients know i ### Step 12: GET READY TO INJECT THOUSANDS! -Once you comprehend the process, adjust it to suit your machines, molds, and products to achieve your objectives. Automation may be beneficial as sales become consistent. Pay close attention to color formulas for your products. +Once you understand the process fully, it’s time to tailor to your needs, your machines, moulds and products so you can reach the targets you set. Automating part of your process might be a good idea once you start selling regularly. +And don’t forget to pay a lot of attention to the colour formulas for your products, it’s fun! + ![15.PNG](./15.PNG) ### Step 13: EMBRACE DISTRIBUTED DESIGN -### Distributed Eyewear Production +At FOS we aim to help projects and people to be able to make the eyewear we’ve designed in their local ecosystems, hence making possible for us to stop shipping products individually and by airmail, which is a HUGE contradiction. For this, we’ve created packages that include knowledge and moulds for anyone to be able to start selling eyewear made out of plastic waste ANYWHERE. -At FOS, we enable local production of our eyewear designs, reducing the need for individual product shipments. We offer resources and moulds to facilitate this process, allowing the manufacture of eyewear products anywhere. +Distributed design is a powerful concept that needs to become a standard. We’re still far from that, but this is our contribution, so if you are interested in those packages, check our profile out. :) -Distributed design is an impactful approach that we support through our offerings. For more details on our packages, please visit our website. +WEB: fosbarcelona.com: fosbarcelona.com +IG: instagram.com: instagram.com +BAZAR: -#### Contact -- Website: [fosbarcelona.com](https://www.fosbarcelona.com/) -- Instagram: [instagram.com](https://www.instagram.com/) ![FOS_sotllo_front15.jpg](./FOS_sotllo_front15.jpg) @@ -184,57 +198,4 @@ Distributed design is an impactful approach that we support through our offering ![16.PNG](./16.PNG) ## Resources -### Required Tools - -- Molds for eyewear production ([fosbarcelona.com](https://www.fosbarcelona.com/)) -- Screw-based clamping systems (budget-friendly) -- Bead blasting equipment (for surface finishing) -- Polishing tools (high-grain for smooth finishes) -- Pressure-marking tools (for multi-brand compatibility) - -### Required Software - -- CAD software (for eyewear and mold design) - -### Required Hardware - -- CNC milling machine (for mold production or prototyping) -- Injection molding machine (for frame production) -- Milling machine (for logo/inscription engraving) -- Industrial-quality mold equipment (minimal post-processing) -- Heat-based systems (for fused hinges) - -*** - -Citations are omitted as no direct external sources beyond the provided text are referenced. -## References -### Articles - -- [Bridging the gap between 3D printing and small scale batch production with open-source plastic recycling machines](https://distributeddesign.eu/bridging-the-gap-between-3d-printing-and-small-scale-batch-production-with-open-source-plastic-recycling-machines/) [1] -- [Eyewear and Hard Plastics - PVH – Tommy Hilfiger](https://responsibility.pvh.com/tommy/eyewear-and-hard-plastics/) [2] -- [Discover MODO and Eco Eyewear: Where Style Meets Sustainability](https://www.peakeyecarescv.com/discover-modo-and-eco-eyewear-where-style-meets-sustainability/) [5] -- [DIY Injection Molding: How to Mold Plastic Parts In-House - Formlabs](https://formlabs.com/blog/diy-injection-molding/) [7] -- [FOS lets you handcraft your own sunglasses from 100% recycled plastic](https://www.designboom.com/design/fos-handcraft-your-own-sunglasses-plastic-waste-03-11-2019/) [8] -- ~~[Sustainable Luxury: The Growing Importance of Eco-Friendly Eyewear](https://www.uoosd.com/sustainable-luxury)~~ [9] -- [How Precision Plastic Injection Molding Shapes Optic Lenses](https://richfieldsplastics.com/blog/precision-plastic-lens-molding/) [10] -- [MODO Eyewear | Designer Frames at North Country Eye Care](https://www.northcountryeyecare.com/discover-modo-eyewear-innovative-design-sustainable-materials-north-country-eye-care/) [11] -- [Plastic Optics: Specifying Injection-Molded Polymer Optics](https://www.photonics.com/Articles/Plastic_Optics_Specifying_Injection-Molded/a25487) [12] -- [Eco Eyewear | Sustainable and timeless](https://www.eye-book.com/en/news/eco-eyewear-sustainable-and-timeless/) [13] -- [Eyewear Design And Development Looking beyond logos and ...](https://www.2020mag.com/ce/eyewear-design-and-development-looking) [14] -- [Jacob Hamman -- How to Make (almost) Anything - MIT Fab Lab](http://fab.cba.mit.edu/classes/863.15/section.Harvard/people/Hamman/week7.html) [15] - -### Papers - -- [The Case of Distributed Manufacturing of Customizable 3-D ...](https://www.acadlore.com/article/CIS/2014_2_1/cis2014.02010030) [3] - -### Open Source Designs - -- [Open Source Smart Glasses - GitHub](https://github.com/AugmentOS-Community/OpenSourceSmartGlasses) [4] - -### YouTube - -- [How was it made? Hand-crafted glasses by Oliver Goldsmith](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=azXBLgXIl34) [16] -- [How To Model Sunglasses Using Solids](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pQF2QmF3cK0) [17] -- [Make Your Own Optical Lenses](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mfAGivG9Koc) [18] -- [STEPPER EYEWEAR Training - Injection Moulding](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HUgdKQjlWus) [19] -- [Make your own PAIR TOPPERS for Eyeglasses!](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=27oWzZC__Gw) [20] \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/design-moulds-for-sunglasses/config.json b/howtos/design-moulds-for-sunglasses/config.json index c4cf6ee20..7be6f1eff 100644 --- a/howtos/design-moulds-for-sunglasses/config.json +++ b/howtos/design-moulds-for-sunglasses/config.json @@ -51,12 +51,12 @@ "alt": "00.jpg" } ], - "text": "To complete the process independently, you will need:\n\n1. A defined model concept.\n2. A computer with CAD software experience.\n3. Access to a quality CNC milling machine or a manufacturing partner.\n4. An injection machine.\n\nLet's proceed with the steps.", + "text": "To make all the process yourself, you will need: \n1. A clear mind about the model you want to create. \n2. A computer and some experience working with CAD software.\n3. A good CNC milling machine or a manufacturing partner.\n4. An injection machine.\n\nOk. Let’s dive into the steps then.\n", "title": "What you need" }, { "title": "DESIGN THE SUNGLASSES", - "text": "When designing eyewear, you can either choose bold designs aimed at a niche audience or opt for classic styles for broader appeal. Your decision depends on your goals. Once your target is set, you will need to make decisions about various components, as outlined in the following steps.", + "text": "When designing eyewear you can go wild, and reach few, or start with the classics, and reach many. It only depends on your intentions to choose one way or another. \n\nOnce you have a target chosen, you will need to make decisions regarding a couple of components, which we’ll go through in the next steps.\n", "images": [ { "fullPath": "uploads/howtos/hF3ZvaJyHKtjhf6WoQ8P/1.png", @@ -90,7 +90,7 @@ ], "_animationKey": "unique1wvxsp", "title": "Sunglasses model - Hinges", - "text": "Metal hinges: Common options include riveted (fixed with rivets), in-mold (placed before injection), screwed-in (attached post-injection with screws), and fused (secured post-injection with heat). Screw-in hinges are the easiest to detach after the product's lifespan.\n\nPlastic hinges: See next step." + "text": "Metal hinges: There are several metal hinges options in the market, being the most common riveted - fixed with rivets -, in mould - placed in the mould before every injection -, screwed in - inserted after the injection and fixed using screws -, and fused - inserted after injection using heat -. \nOf all of them, the easiest to detach from the product once its lifespan is over, is the screw-in models and that is the reason we choose to use this one. \n\nPlastic hinges: See next step\n" }, { "_animationKey": "uniqueqw04qv", @@ -108,7 +108,7 @@ "alt": "3.PNG" } ], - "text": "Plastic hinges can be manufactured using molds. This method avoids material mixtures and can offer durability comparable to metal hinges if designed correctly. However, the perceived quality might be a concern when creating products for sale, as perceptions can vary globally and are not always aligned with actual quality.", + "text": "Plastic hinges: Made in the mould. This is the most sustainable choice. No materials mixtures and durability that might go beyond eyewear with metal hinges, if designed properly. The downside is the quality perception, a key point when developing products that need to sell, and a parameter that many times has no connection to actual quality, but rather with the different perceptions around materials and products present in each corner of the world.\n", "title": "Sunglasses model - Hinges" }, { @@ -128,12 +128,12 @@ } ], "title": "Sunglasses model - Lenses ", - "text": "There is a wide variety of lenses available. Your choice depends on the intended use and type of eyewear. The main types are:\n\n- Polycarbonate: Suitable for sports and action eyewear due to durability.\n- CR-39 (polymer): The most common type of lens.\n- Mineral: Glass lenses, used less frequently due to weight and fragility, but offer high scratch resistance." + "text": "There is a wide variety of lenses in the market. Again, depending on your target and the type of eyewear you want to make you will choose one type or another. The main ones are the following, although there are many others for specific applications: \n\nPolycarbonate: Lenses for sports and action eyewear due to its resistance. \nCR-39 (polymer): The most used type of lenses. \nMineral lenses: The glass lenses that are used less and less due to their weight and the fact that they break when falling. The main advantage is its scratch resistance. \n" }, { "title": "Sunglasses Model - Base", "_animationKey": "uniqueioynx", - "text": "Certainly.\n\n---\n\nFor eyewear design, the curvature of the frame is determined by the \"Base\" value. A higher base number results in a smaller curvature diameter. Base 9 is typical for sports eyewear, providing a snug fit to protect the eyes, while base 2 is used for fashion eyewear with a nearly flat appearance.\n\nPreviously, our Classic model featured a base of 6, whereas our new models utilize a base of 4.", + "text": "Depending on the type of eyewear you will want the frame to have a bigger curvature to cover as much face as possible, or a completely flat frame, to follow the lastest of the fashion trends ;)\n\nThe Base value is what is used to define this curvature. The higher the base number, the smaller the diameter of the curvature of the frame will be. Base nine is used for sport eyewear, which offers a pretty tight fit to protect the eyes as much as possible, whereas a base 2 is used for fashion eyewear where the frame is almost flat. \n\nOur Classic model used to be base 6. Our new models are base 4. \n\n", "images": [ { "contentType": "image/jpeg", @@ -166,7 +166,7 @@ "alt": "6.PNG" } ], - "text": "### Designing Molds for Eyewear\n\nWhen creating molds for eyewear using specific machinery, it is crucial to balance costs and mold quality. Achieving a superior final product with minimal post-processing, detailed inscriptions, and excellent surface finishes requires significant investment. \n\nFor testing, you can produce molds more rapidly with simpler machines, offering considerable savings. It is important to recognize that striving for industrial-quality molds may lead to similar expenses as industrial ones. Our approach was to opt for a high-quality mold that requires minimal post-processing." + "text": "When designing moulds to make eyewear with [filtered] machinery you need to make a fine exercise of balancing costs and mould quality.\nFor a really good finished product with little post processing needed, high quality inscriptions and outstanding surface finishes, you will have to spend €€€.\nFor testing purposes you can mill the mould way faster and with simpler machines, saving quite a chunk. \nIt is vital to understand that it doesn’t make sense to make moulds that are as good as industrial moulds for the obvious reason that they will then be almost as expensive as industrial moulds!\nWe went for a high quality mould that will require a small amount of postprocessing. \n\n" }, { "images": [ @@ -196,7 +196,7 @@ } ], "title": "Parting lines", - "text": "If choosing a cheaper mold, place parting lines at the edges to simplify post-processing and achieve satisfactory results.\n\nFor high-quality molds, the placement of parting lines is less critical as minimal post-processing, such as slight polishing, may be needed. Design choices can guide your decision. The images illustrate how to obscure parting lines with a rounding technique, which increases mold cost—particularly for small features requiring multiple tool changes and additional time—or how to maintain a simple design.", + "text": "If you go for a cheaper mould, then go for parting lines in the edge of the parts, making it easy to post process and to achieve good final results.\n\nIf you go for a good mould, place them either way, since they will be good enough for you not to post process them or simply polish them slightly. In this case, design choices might be the parameters that will help you decide. The images you see show how to slightly hide the parting line by adding a round up, which will make the mould slightly more expensive (especially if you do this on small features that could want a few tool changes and a lot more time) or how to keep it simple. \n\n\n", "_animationKey": "unique1mig4b" }, { @@ -239,11 +239,11 @@ } ], "_animationKey": "unique6jhtrf", - "text": "### Closing System: Complexity Overview\n\nA closing system enabling quicker production can be expensive. The clamping pressure in an injection mold is crucial for optimal results and mold longevity. Finding a system that is affordable, accommodates frequent mold changes, and provides adequate, evenly distributed pressure is challenging.\n\nSimple screws are a budget-friendly solution, offering excellent clamping pressure when correctly positioned. However, they may slow down the process of opening and closing the mold. We suggest beginning with screws to assess your actual requirements before considering other options.", + "text": "Closing system: How complex? \nA closing system that allows for faster productions can be very costly. The clamping pressure in an injection mould is vital for good results and mould life. It is, however, not easy to find a system that allows for constant mould change and high enough pressures, evenly distributed, at a low price. \nUsing simple screws is a good solution for a smaller budget: It’s cheap and offers a perfect clamping pressure if they are placed right. However, it will be slower to open and close the mould.\nOur recommendation is to start with screws, understand your real needs, and work from there. ", "title": "Closing system: How complex? " }, { - "text": "### Surface Finishing Options for Molds\n\n1. **Tool Paths**: Leaving tool paths is cost-effective and allows for creative patterns by altering cutting directions.\n\n2. **Bead Blasting**: Provides an even surface at a low cost but lacks a shiny finish. Standards vary regionally, so consult your manufacturing partner for guidance.\n\n3. **Polishing**: Achieves the smoothest finish but is the most expensive. Choose the appropriate grade for your needs.", + "text": "Depending on budget and intentions you can leave the tool paths, or bead blast or polish them.\n\n1: Leaving the tool paths is the cheapest option. You can always play with the cutting direction to make patterns - the result can be pretty interesting. \n\n2: Bead blasting is the cheapest way to have an even surface in a mould. With this, however, it is not possible to get a shiny finish. There are several standards for bead blasting, varying for different parts of the world. Your manufacturing partner will be able to guide you through them.\n\n3: Polishing offers the evenest result. As it is made by hand, it is also the most expensive one. Look for the grade you need.", "_animationKey": "uniquekluna", "title": "Surface finishings", "images": [ @@ -289,12 +289,12 @@ } ], "_animationKey": "uniquenughd7", - "text": "To finish your product, consider adding inscriptions to ensure recipients know its origin. Two main methods are:\n\n1. Milling a logo or inscription. This approach limits production to one brand, but allows for high-quality inscriptions with minimal effort or time. The image shows molds made for Experiencia Emprendedora in Argentina.\n\n2. Using pressure-marking to imprint logos and inscriptions. While the quality is lower, this method allows the mold to be used for multiple projects and brands as you establish your brand, if desired.", + "text": "To end your product, it is interesting to get awesome inscriptions on it and make sure whomever receives your product knows who made it. Two main options here: \n\n1: Mill a logo or inscription of your brand, limiting the production to one brand name, but being able to have high quality inscriptions without extra efforts or time. The image shows the moulds we made for Experiencia Emprendedora from Argentina. \n\n2: Using the awesome Samsara’s method of pressure-marking your logos and inscriptions on the surfaces. The quality won’t be as high, but it will allow you to use the mould for a variety of projects and brands, while you establish yours (if that is your plan).\n\nPhoto credits: samsaratrc", "title": "Logos and inscriptions" }, { "title": "GET READY TO INJECT THOUSANDS!", - "text": "Once you comprehend the process, adjust it to suit your machines, molds, and products to achieve your objectives. Automation may be beneficial as sales become consistent. Pay close attention to color formulas for your products.", + "text": "Once you understand the process fully, it’s time to tailor to your needs, your machines, moulds and products so you can reach the targets you set. Automating part of your process might be a good idea once you start selling regularly.\nAnd don’t forget to pay a lot of attention to the colour formulas for your products, it’s fun!\n", "images": [ { "timeCreated": "2021-01-11T17:35:28.347Z", @@ -312,7 +312,7 @@ "_animationKey": "uniquee3zyuq" }, { - "text": "### Distributed Eyewear Production\n\nAt FOS, we enable local production of our eyewear designs, reducing the need for individual product shipments. We offer resources and moulds to facilitate this process, allowing the manufacture of eyewear products anywhere. \n\nDistributed design is an impactful approach that we support through our offerings. For more details on our packages, please visit our website.\n\n#### Contact\n- Website: [fosbarcelona.com](https://www.fosbarcelona.com/)\n- Instagram: [instagram.com](https://www.instagram.com/)", + "text": "At FOS we aim to help projects and people to be able to make the eyewear we’ve designed in their local ecosystems, hence making possible for us to stop shipping products individually and by airmail, which is a HUGE contradiction. For this, we’ve created packages that include knowledge and moulds for anyone to be able to start selling eyewear made out of plastic waste ANYWHERE. \n\nDistributed design is a powerful concept that needs to become a standard. We’re still far from that, but this is our contribution, so if you are interested in those packages, check our profile out. :)\n\nWEB: fosbarcelona.com: fosbarcelona.com\nIG: instagram.com: instagram.com\nBAZAR: \n", "_animationKey": "uniquelau59", "title": "EMBRACE DISTRIBUTED DESIGN", "images": [ @@ -371,7 +371,7 @@ "_created": "2021-01-11T17:35:35.695Z", "id": "hF3ZvaJyHKtjhf6WoQ8P", "files": [], - "description": "For the past five years, Esfèrica has focused on maintaining the value of waste plastics. Our project, FOS Barcelona, produces eyewear from local waste and provides molds for others to produce them locally, promoting distributed design.\n\nThis guide shares insights from our experience.\n\n1: Requirements\n2-5: Sunglasses Design\n6-10: Mold Design", + "description": "At Esfèrica we’ve been working to understand how to uphold the value of waste plastics for the past 5 years. Today, our project FOS Barcelona offers eyewear made with local waste and moulds for others to fabricate them in their area, in an effort to enhance distributed design. \n\nHere we’ll guide you through aspects we learned on our way.\n\n1: What you need\n2-5: Design sunglasses\n6-10: Design mould", "_createdBy": "esfrica", "_id": "hF3ZvaJyHKtjhf6WoQ8P", "total_views": 336, @@ -549,9 +549,5 @@ "category": { "label": "uncategorized" }, - "content": "For the past five years, Esfèrica has focused on maintaining the value of waste plastics. Our project, FOS Barcelona, produces eyewear from local waste and provides molds for others to produce them locally, promoting distributed design.\n\nThis guide shares insights from our experience.\n\n1: Requirements\n2-5: Sunglasses Design\n6-10: Mold Design\n\n\nUser Location: Barcelona, Spain\n\nTo complete the process independently, you will need:\n\n1. A defined model concept.\n2. A computer with CAD software experience.\n3. Access to a quality CNC milling machine or a manufacturing partner.\n4. An injection machine.\n\nLet's proceed with the steps.\n\nWhen designing eyewear, you can either choose bold designs aimed at a niche audience or opt for classic styles for broader appeal. Your decision depends on your goals. Once your target is set, you will need to make decisions about various components, as outlined in the following steps.\n\nMetal hinges: Common options include riveted (fixed with rivets), in-mold (placed before injection), screwed-in (attached post-injection with screws), and fused (secured post-injection with heat). Screw-in hinges are the easiest to detach after the product's lifespan.\n\nPlastic hinges: See next step.\n\nPlastic hinges can be manufactured using molds. This method avoids material mixtures and can offer durability comparable to metal hinges if designed correctly. However, the perceived quality might be a concern when creating products for sale, as perceptions can vary globally and are not always aligned with actual quality.\n\nThere is a wide variety of lenses available. Your choice depends on the intended use and type of eyewear. The main types are:\n\n- Polycarbonate: Suitable for sports and action eyewear due to durability.\n- CR-39 (polymer): The most common type of lens.\n- Mineral: Glass lenses, used less frequently due to weight and fragility, but offer high scratch resistance.\n\nCertainly.\n\n---\n\nFor eyewear design, the curvature of the frame is determined by the \"Base\" value. A higher base number results in a smaller curvature diameter. Base 9 is typical for sports eyewear, providing a snug fit to protect the eyes, while base 2 is used for fashion eyewear with a nearly flat appearance.\n\nPreviously, our Classic model featured a base of 6, whereas our new models utilize a base of 4.\n\n### Designing Molds for Eyewear\n\nWhen creating molds for eyewear using specific machinery, it is crucial to balance costs and mold quality. Achieving a superior final product with minimal post-processing, detailed inscriptions, and excellent surface finishes requires significant investment. \n\nFor testing, you can produce molds more rapidly with simpler machines, offering considerable savings. It is important to recognize that striving for industrial-quality molds may lead to similar expenses as industrial ones. Our approach was to opt for a high-quality mold that requires minimal post-processing.\n\nIf choosing a cheaper mold, place parting lines at the edges to simplify post-processing and achieve satisfactory results.\n\nFor high-quality molds, the placement of parting lines is less critical as minimal post-processing, such as slight polishing, may be needed. Design choices can guide your decision. The images illustrate how to obscure parting lines with a rounding technique, which increases mold cost—particularly for small features requiring multiple tool changes and additional time—or how to maintain a simple design.\n\n### Closing System: Complexity Overview\n\nA closing system enabling quicker production can be expensive. The clamping pressure in an injection mold is crucial for optimal results and mold longevity. Finding a system that is affordable, accommodates frequent mold changes, and provides adequate, evenly distributed pressure is challenging.\n\nSimple screws are a budget-friendly solution, offering excellent clamping pressure when correctly positioned. However, they may slow down the process of opening and closing the mold. We suggest beginning with screws to assess your actual requirements before considering other options.\n\n### Surface Finishing Options for Molds\n\n1. **Tool Paths**: Leaving tool paths is cost-effective and allows for creative patterns by altering cutting directions.\n\n2. **Bead Blasting**: Provides an even surface at a low cost but lacks a shiny finish. Standards vary regionally, so consult your manufacturing partner for guidance.\n\n3. **Polishing**: Achieves the smoothest finish but is the most expensive. Choose the appropriate grade for your needs.\n\nTo finish your product, consider adding inscriptions to ensure recipients know its origin. Two main methods are:\n\n1. Milling a logo or inscription. This approach limits production to one brand, but allows for high-quality inscriptions with minimal effort or time. The image shows molds made for Experiencia Emprendedora in Argentina.\n\n2. Using pressure-marking to imprint logos and inscriptions. While the quality is lower, this method allows the mold to be used for multiple projects and brands as you establish your brand, if desired.\n\nOnce you comprehend the process, adjust it to suit your machines, molds, and products to achieve your objectives. Automation may be beneficial as sales become consistent. Pay close attention to color formulas for your products.\n\n### Distributed Eyewear Production\n\nAt FOS, we enable local production of our eyewear designs, reducing the need for individual product shipments. We offer resources and moulds to facilitate this process, allowing the manufacture of eyewear products anywhere. \n\nDistributed design is an impactful approach that we support through our offerings. For more details on our packages, please visit our website.\n\n#### Contact\n- Website: [fosbarcelona.com](https://www.fosbarcelona.com/)\n- Instagram: [instagram.com](https://www.instagram.com/)", - "keywords": "Esfèrica, FOS Barcelona, eyewear design, waste plastics, distributed design, CNC milling machine, mold design, injection machine, local production, sustainable eyewear", - "resources": "### Required Tools\n\n- Molds for eyewear production ([fosbarcelona.com](https://www.fosbarcelona.com/))\n- Screw-based clamping systems (budget-friendly)\n- Bead blasting equipment (for surface finishing)\n- Polishing tools (high-grain for smooth finishes)\n- Pressure-marking tools (for multi-brand compatibility)\n\n### Required Software\n\n- CAD software (for eyewear and mold design)\n\n### Required Hardware\n\n- CNC milling machine (for mold production or prototyping)\n- Injection molding machine (for frame production)\n- Milling machine (for logo/inscription engraving)\n- Industrial-quality mold equipment (minimal post-processing)\n- Heat-based systems (for fused hinges)\n\n***\n\nCitations are omitted as no direct external sources beyond the provided text are referenced.", - "references": "### Articles\n\n- [Bridging the gap between 3D printing and small scale batch production with open-source plastic recycling machines](https://distributeddesign.eu/bridging-the-gap-between-3d-printing-and-small-scale-batch-production-with-open-source-plastic-recycling-machines/) [1]\n- [Eyewear and Hard Plastics - PVH – Tommy Hilfiger](https://responsibility.pvh.com/tommy/eyewear-and-hard-plastics/) [2]\n- [Discover MODO and Eco Eyewear: Where Style Meets Sustainability](https://www.peakeyecarescv.com/discover-modo-and-eco-eyewear-where-style-meets-sustainability/) [5]\n- [DIY Injection Molding: How to Mold Plastic Parts In-House - Formlabs](https://formlabs.com/blog/diy-injection-molding/) [7]\n- [FOS lets you handcraft your own sunglasses from 100% recycled plastic](https://www.designboom.com/design/fos-handcraft-your-own-sunglasses-plastic-waste-03-11-2019/) [8]\n- ~~[Sustainable Luxury: The Growing Importance of Eco-Friendly Eyewear](https://www.uoosd.com/sustainable-luxury)~~ [9]\n- [How Precision Plastic Injection Molding Shapes Optic Lenses](https://richfieldsplastics.com/blog/precision-plastic-lens-molding/) [10]\n- [MODO Eyewear | Designer Frames at North Country Eye Care](https://www.northcountryeyecare.com/discover-modo-eyewear-innovative-design-sustainable-materials-north-country-eye-care/) [11]\n- [Plastic Optics: Specifying Injection-Molded Polymer Optics](https://www.photonics.com/Articles/Plastic_Optics_Specifying_Injection-Molded/a25487) [12]\n- [Eco Eyewear | Sustainable and timeless](https://www.eye-book.com/en/news/eco-eyewear-sustainable-and-timeless/) [13]\n- [Eyewear Design And Development Looking beyond logos and ...](https://www.2020mag.com/ce/eyewear-design-and-development-looking) [14]\n- [Jacob Hamman -- How to Make (almost) Anything - MIT Fab Lab](http://fab.cba.mit.edu/classes/863.15/section.Harvard/people/Hamman/week7.html) [15]\n\n### Papers\n\n- [The Case of Distributed Manufacturing of Customizable 3-D ...](https://www.acadlore.com/article/CIS/2014_2_1/cis2014.02010030) [3]\n\n### Open Source Designs\n\n- [Open Source Smart Glasses - GitHub](https://github.com/AugmentOS-Community/OpenSourceSmartGlasses) [4]\n\n### YouTube\n\n- [How was it made? Hand-crafted glasses by Oliver Goldsmith](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=azXBLgXIl34) [16]\n- [How To Model Sunglasses Using Solids](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pQF2QmF3cK0) [17]\n- [Make Your Own Optical Lenses](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mfAGivG9Koc) [18]\n- [STEPPER EYEWEAR Training - Injection Moulding](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HUgdKQjlWus) [19]\n- [Make your own PAIR TOPPERS for Eyeglasses!](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=27oWzZC__Gw) [20]", - "brief": "Transform waste plastics into stylish eyewear with FOS Barcelona. Discover our guide to local production and distributed design for sustainable fashion." + "content": "At Esfèrica we’ve been working to understand how to uphold the value of waste plastics for the past 5 years. Today, our project FOS Barcelona offers eyewear made with local waste and moulds for others to fabricate them in their area, in an effort to enhance distributed design. \n\nHere we’ll guide you through aspects we learned on our way.\n\n1: What you need\n2-5: Design sunglasses\n6-10: Design mould\n\n\nUser Location: Barcelona, Spain\n\nTo make all the process yourself, you will need: \n1. A clear mind about the model you want to create. \n2. A computer and some experience working with CAD software.\n3. A good CNC milling machine or a manufacturing partner.\n4. An injection machine.\n\nOk. Let’s dive into the steps then.\n\n\nWhen designing eyewear you can go wild, and reach few, or start with the classics, and reach many. It only depends on your intentions to choose one way or another. \n\nOnce you have a target chosen, you will need to make decisions regarding a couple of components, which we’ll go through in the next steps.\n\n\nMetal hinges: There are several metal hinges options in the market, being the most common riveted - fixed with rivets -, in mould - placed in the mould before every injection -, screwed in - inserted after the injection and fixed using screws -, and fused - inserted after injection using heat -. \nOf all of them, the easiest to detach from the product once its lifespan is over, is the screw-in models and that is the reason we choose to use this one. \n\nPlastic hinges: See next step\n\n\nPlastic hinges: Made in the mould. This is the most sustainable choice. No materials mixtures and durability that might go beyond eyewear with metal hinges, if designed properly. The downside is the quality perception, a key point when developing products that need to sell, and a parameter that many times has no connection to actual quality, but rather with the different perceptions around materials and products present in each corner of the world.\n\n\nThere is a wide variety of lenses in the market. Again, depending on your target and the type of eyewear you want to make you will choose one type or another. The main ones are the following, although there are many others for specific applications: \n\nPolycarbonate: Lenses for sports and action eyewear due to its resistance. \nCR-39 (polymer): The most used type of lenses. \nMineral lenses: The glass lenses that are used less and less due to their weight and the fact that they break when falling. The main advantage is its scratch resistance. \n\n\nDepending on the type of eyewear you will want the frame to have a bigger curvature to cover as much face as possible, or a completely flat frame, to follow the lastest of the fashion trends ;)\n\nThe Base value is what is used to define this curvature. The higher the base number, the smaller the diameter of the curvature of the frame will be. Base nine is used for sport eyewear, which offers a pretty tight fit to protect the eyes as much as possible, whereas a base 2 is used for fashion eyewear where the frame is almost flat. \n\nOur Classic model used to be base 6. Our new models are base 4. \n\n\n\nWhen designing moulds to make eyewear with [filtered] machinery you need to make a fine exercise of balancing costs and mould quality.\nFor a really good finished product with little post processing needed, high quality inscriptions and outstanding surface finishes, you will have to spend €€€.\nFor testing purposes you can mill the mould way faster and with simpler machines, saving quite a chunk. \nIt is vital to understand that it doesn’t make sense to make moulds that are as good as industrial moulds for the obvious reason that they will then be almost as expensive as industrial moulds!\nWe went for a high quality mould that will require a small amount of postprocessing. \n\n\n\nIf you go for a cheaper mould, then go for parting lines in the edge of the parts, making it easy to post process and to achieve good final results.\n\nIf you go for a good mould, place them either way, since they will be good enough for you not to post process them or simply polish them slightly. In this case, design choices might be the parameters that will help you decide. The images you see show how to slightly hide the parting line by adding a round up, which will make the mould slightly more expensive (especially if you do this on small features that could want a few tool changes and a lot more time) or how to keep it simple. \n\n\n\n\nClosing system: How complex? \nA closing system that allows for faster productions can be very costly. The clamping pressure in an injection mould is vital for good results and mould life. It is, however, not easy to find a system that allows for constant mould change and high enough pressures, evenly distributed, at a low price. \nUsing simple screws is a good solution for a smaller budget: It’s cheap and offers a perfect clamping pressure if they are placed right. However, it will be slower to open and close the mould.\nOur recommendation is to start with screws, understand your real needs, and work from there. \n\nDepending on budget and intentions you can leave the tool paths, or bead blast or polish them.\n\n1: Leaving the tool paths is the cheapest option. You can always play with the cutting direction to make patterns - the result can be pretty interesting. \n\n2: Bead blasting is the cheapest way to have an even surface in a mould. With this, however, it is not possible to get a shiny finish. There are several standards for bead blasting, varying for different parts of the world. Your manufacturing partner will be able to guide you through them.\n\n3: Polishing offers the evenest result. As it is made by hand, it is also the most expensive one. Look for the grade you need.\n\nTo end your product, it is interesting to get awesome inscriptions on it and make sure whomever receives your product knows who made it. Two main options here: \n\n1: Mill a logo or inscription of your brand, limiting the production to one brand name, but being able to have high quality inscriptions without extra efforts or time. The image shows the moulds we made for Experiencia Emprendedora from Argentina. \n\n2: Using the awesome Samsara’s method of pressure-marking your logos and inscriptions on the surfaces. The quality won’t be as high, but it will allow you to use the mould for a variety of projects and brands, while you establish yours (if that is your plan).\n\nPhoto credits: samsaratrc\n\nOnce you understand the process fully, it’s time to tailor to your needs, your machines, moulds and products so you can reach the targets you set. Automating part of your process might be a good idea once you start selling regularly.\nAnd don’t forget to pay a lot of attention to the colour formulas for your products, it’s fun!\n\n\nAt FOS we aim to help projects and people to be able to make the eyewear we’ve designed in their local ecosystems, hence making possible for us to stop shipping products individually and by airmail, which is a HUGE contradiction. For this, we’ve created packages that include knowledge and moulds for anyone to be able to start selling eyewear made out of plastic waste ANYWHERE. \n\nDistributed design is a powerful concept that needs to become a standard. We’re still far from that, but this is our contribution, so if you are interested in those packages, check our profile out. :)\n\nWEB: fosbarcelona.com: fosbarcelona.com\nIG: instagram.com: instagram.com\nBAZAR: \n" } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/desktop-hand-table-extruder-/README.md b/howtos/desktop-hand-table-extruder-/README.md index dd5a0b850..cd4f8b73b 100644 --- a/howtos/desktop-hand-table-extruder-/README.md +++ b/howtos/desktop-hand-table-extruder-/README.md @@ -1,43 +1,43 @@ --- title: Desktop hand table extruder slug: desktop-hand-table-extruder- -description: Desktop extruder for home use. Equipped with a socket for table clamping and transparent case walls for component visibility. Features a surface for pre-drying plastic. +description: Desktop extruder for home use. It has a socket for fastening with clamps to the table. Transparent case walls allow you to see the components. Has a surface for pre-drying plastic. -Included: -1. 3D CAD (.SLDPRT) -2. Photo set for assembling the extruder. +In this folder you will find: +1) 3D CAD (.SLDPRT) +2) Photo set assembling extruder. -This extruder is intended for small batch production and public demonstrations. It is my design, but you are welcome to modify it. +This extruder is designed for small batch production as well as public presentations. This is completely my development, but feel free to make changes to it at your discretion. -To use, add plastic, turn the handle, and create your product. +Fill in the plastic, twist the handle and "voila!" new eco-friendly recycled product! -Suitable for working with plastic at melting temperatures up to 572°F (300°C). Originally built for 220 volts; can be adapted as needed. +Suitable for working with plastic at melting temperatures up to 300 degrees. I built it for 220 volts (you can adapt it for yourself). tags: ["extrusion","melting","other machine"] category: Machines difficulty: Hard time: 1+ months -keywords: desktop extruder, home use, plastic extrusion, 3D CAD files, small batch production, thermocouple kit, plexiglass walls, table clamping, high-temperature plastic, steel cutting service +keywords: location: Ivanovo, Russian Federation (the) --- # Desktop hand table extruder ![Desktop hand table extruder ](DSC00113-18862a7cbb4.jpg) -Desktop extruder for home use. Equipped with a socket for table clamping and transparent case walls for component visibility. Features a surface for pre-drying plastic. +Desktop extruder for home use. It has a socket for fastening with clamps to the table. Transparent case walls allow you to see the components. Has a surface for pre-drying plastic. -Included: -1. 3D CAD (.SLDPRT) -2. Photo set for assembling the extruder. +In this folder you will find: +1) 3D CAD (.SLDPRT) +2) Photo set assembling extruder. -This extruder is intended for small batch production and public demonstrations. It is my design, but you are welcome to modify it. +This extruder is designed for small batch production as well as public presentations. This is completely my development, but feel free to make changes to it at your discretion. -To use, add plastic, turn the handle, and create your product. +Fill in the plastic, twist the handle and "voila!" new eco-friendly recycled product! -Suitable for working with plastic at melting temperatures up to 572°F (300°C). Originally built for 220 volts; can be adapted as needed. +Suitable for working with plastic at melting temperatures up to 300 degrees. I built it for 220 volts (you can adapt it for yourself). User Location: Ivanovo, Russian Federation (the) ## Steps ### Step 1: Order electronics for a project -It may take some time for shipping, so it is advisable to begin with that. The REX-100 and a solid-state relay with thermocouple are often available as a kit. For heating, use two ring heaters and include a switch at the back. +It will most likely take time to ship, so it's best to start there. REX-100 and solid state relay with thermocouple can often be found as a kit. For heating, I used 2 ring heaters. Also, add a switch at the back. ![DSC00127-188628c9022.jpg](./DSC00127-188628c9022.jpg) @@ -52,10 +52,10 @@ It may take some time for shipping, so it is advisable to begin with that. The R Various materials were used for the project: -- Base of mechanism, base, and small parts: structural steel 2 mm (0.08 inches) -- Walls: plexiglass 2 mm (0.08 inches) -- Handles: wood or plastic -- Roof: sheet steel 0.4 mm (0.016 inches) +for the base of the mechanism, the base and small parts - structural steel 2 mm; +for walls - plexiglass 2 mm; +for handles - wood or plastic; +for the roof - sheet steel 0.4 mm. ![Скриншот 25-05-2023 194007-18862920ce8.jpg](./25-05-2023_194007-18862920ce8.jpg) @@ -68,9 +68,9 @@ Various materials were used for the project: ### Step 3: Save files for laser cutting -Consult with the local manufacturer to determine the required file format for laser cutting and bending and convert your files accordingly. Common formats include .dxf, .cdr, or .dwg. +Check with the local manufacturer in what format they need to transfer files for laser cutting and bending and convert the files to this format. Usually in the format .dxf, .cdr or .dwg -Thin sheet steel for the roof can be manually cut and bent. For all other parts, it is advisable to use automatic cutting to the specified dimensions for efficiency and high quality. +Thin sheet steel for the roof can be cut and bent by hand. I recommend cutting the rest exactly according to the dimensions of the drawing automatically. This will save you time and give excellent quality at a reasonable price. ![Скриншот 28-05-2023 165241-18862a38ca0.jpg](./28-05-2023_165241-18862a38ca0.jpg) @@ -83,11 +83,14 @@ Thin sheet steel for the roof can be manually cut and bent. For all other parts, ### Step 4: Order cutting of materials -You may not need to purchase cutting materials, as they are often included in the plexiglass steel cutting service, preventing leftover waste. +You may not have to buy cutting materials yourself, they will already be in the plexiglass steel cutting service. This is beneficial, you will not be left with pieces of unused material. -For the heated pipe, options include threading a regular pipe or welding a pre-threaded flange. I opted for welding, which involves more work, but if you lack the tools, it's a suitable alternative. A pipe cut is necessary for the funnel, with laser-cut walls needing welding. +With a heated pipe, it's a little more complicated. You can thread a regular pipe or weld a pre-threaded flange to a pipe. I chose the second option. It requires welding and post-processing, but if you do not have the necessary tools, this is not a bad option. +Also, it will be necessary to make a cut in the pipe for the funnel. Its walls will be cut with a laser, they will remain to be welded. -I utilized a 28 mm (1.1 inches) by 350 mm (13.8 inches) wood twist drill instead of a professional auger. Paint was applied to prevent corrosion. Wiring is essential for connecting the electronics, with detailed instructions available online. Clamps are needed to secure the setup to the table. +Instead of a professional auger, I used a large 28x350 mm wood twist drill. +Used paint to prevent corrosion. Also, wires will be needed to connect the electronics. Detailed instructions for connecting the kit used are available online. +Clamps are required to attach to the table. ![PRUdfe2PdP8-188628e904b.jpg](./PRUdfe2PdP8-188628e904b.jpg) @@ -100,7 +103,7 @@ I utilized a 28 mm (1.1 inches) by 350 mm (13.8 inches) wood twist drill instead ### Step 5: Add the design you like -Incorporate design elements to enhance the machine's aesthetic appeal. Completion achieved. +I wanted this machine to be beautiful. Add design elements to your liking to make the device a pleasure to work with. And… done! ![DSC00118-18862a7f731.jpg](./DSC00118-18862a7f731.jpg) @@ -112,72 +115,4 @@ Incorporate design elements to enhance the machine's aesthetic appeal. Completio ![DSC00120-18862a82b62.jpg](./DSC00120-18862a82b62.jpg) ## Resources -### Software - -- [SolidWorks](https://www.solidworks.com) (for 3D CAD `.SLDPRT` files) [1] -- AutoCAD/CorelDRAW/LibreCAD (to convert files to `.dxf`, `.cdr`, or `.dwg` for laser cutting) [1] - -### Hardware - -- ~~[REX-100](https://example.com/REX-100)~~ motor with solid-state relay + thermocouple kit [2] -- 2x ring heaters (220V compatible) + rear-mounted switch [2] -- 28 mm x 350 mm wood twist drill (auger substitute) [3] -- Threaded/welded pipe + flange (stainless steel, 300°C-rated) [3] -- Table clamps for secure mounting [3] - -### Tools & Equipment - -- Laser cutting/bending services (for structural steel/plexiglass parts) [1] -- Manual cutting tools (for 0.4 mm sheet steel) [2] -- Welding equipment (pipe/funnel assembly) [3] -- Painting supplies (corrosion prevention) [3] -- Basic assembly tools (screwdrivers, pliers, etc.) [3] - -### Materials - -- Structural steel (2 mm thickness) [1] -- Plexiglass sheets (2 mm thickness) [1] -- Sheet steel (0.4 mm for roof) [1] -- Wood/plastic (handles) [1] -- Wiring (electronics connection) [3] - -### Additional - -- ~~[Electronics wiring guides](https://example.com/wiring-tutorials)~~ [3] -- Local manufacturer consultation (file formatting) [1] -- Aesthetic design elements (customization) [3] - -*Links are illustrative; specific suppliers depend on regional availability.* -## References -## References - -### Suppliers - -- [REX-100 & Solid-State Relay Kits (AliExpress)](https://www.aliexpress.com/) -- ~~[Laser-Cutting Services (Chisel Lab)](https://chisel.tech/)~~ - -### CAD Resources - -- [Autodesk Fusion 360](https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360) -- [SolidWorks CAD Software](https://www.solidworks.com/) - -### Fabrication Services - -- [Local Ivanovo Laser-Cutting/CNC Providers](https://lasercut.ru/) - -### Hardware Components - -- ~~[Wood Twist Drills (Leroy Merlin RU)](https://leroymerlin.ru/)~~ -- [Ring Heaters (220V Compatible)](https://www.tme.eu/) - -### Safety & Electronics - -- [Thermocouple Wiring Guide (Instructables)](https://www.instructables.com/) - -### Tutorials - -- [Desktop Extruder Assembly (YouTube)](https://www.youtube.com/) - -### Open-Source Designs - -- [RepRap Extruder Modifications](https://reprap.org/) \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/desktop-hand-table-extruder-/config.json b/howtos/desktop-hand-table-extruder-/config.json index 2dbefe644..3e36fb22c 100644 --- a/howtos/desktop-hand-table-extruder-/config.json +++ b/howtos/desktop-hand-table-extruder-/config.json @@ -68,11 +68,11 @@ "alt": "DSC00113-18862a77ac4.jpg" } ], - "text": "It may take some time for shipping, so it is advisable to begin with that. The REX-100 and a solid-state relay with thermocouple are often available as a kit. For heating, use two ring heaters and include a switch at the back.", + "text": "It will most likely take time to ship, so it's best to start there. REX-100 and solid state relay with thermocouple can often be found as a kit. For heating, I used 2 ring heaters. Also, add a switch at the back.", "_animationKey": "unique7mdprq" }, { - "text": "Various materials were used for the project:\n\n- Base of mechanism, base, and small parts: structural steel 2 mm (0.08 inches)\n- Walls: plexiglass 2 mm (0.08 inches)\n- Handles: wood or plastic\n- Roof: sheet steel 0.4 mm (0.016 inches)", + "text": "Various materials were used for the project:\n\nfor the base of the mechanism, the base and small parts - structural steel 2 mm;\nfor walls - plexiglass 2 mm;\nfor handles - wood or plastic;\nfor the roof - sheet steel 0.4 mm.", "_animationKey": "unique1", "title": "Decide on the materials", "images": [ @@ -116,7 +116,7 @@ }, { "_animationKey": "unique2", - "text": "Consult with the local manufacturer to determine the required file format for laser cutting and bending and convert your files accordingly. Common formats include .dxf, .cdr, or .dwg.\n\nThin sheet steel for the roof can be manually cut and bent. For all other parts, it is advisable to use automatic cutting to the specified dimensions for efficiency and high quality.", + "text": "Check with the local manufacturer in what format they need to transfer files for laser cutting and bending and convert the files to this format. Usually in the format .dxf, .cdr or .dwg\n\nThin sheet steel for the roof can be cut and bent by hand. I recommend cutting the rest exactly according to the dimensions of the drawing automatically. This will save you time and give excellent quality at a reasonable price.", "title": "Save files for laser cutting", "images": [ { @@ -159,7 +159,7 @@ }, { "title": "Order cutting of materials", - "text": "You may not need to purchase cutting materials, as they are often included in the plexiglass steel cutting service, preventing leftover waste.\n\nFor the heated pipe, options include threading a regular pipe or welding a pre-threaded flange. I opted for welding, which involves more work, but if you lack the tools, it's a suitable alternative. A pipe cut is necessary for the funnel, with laser-cut walls needing welding.\n\nI utilized a 28 mm (1.1 inches) by 350 mm (13.8 inches) wood twist drill instead of a professional auger. Paint was applied to prevent corrosion. Wiring is essential for connecting the electronics, with detailed instructions available online. Clamps are needed to secure the setup to the table.", + "text": "You may not have to buy cutting materials yourself, they will already be in the plexiglass steel cutting service. This is beneficial, you will not be left with pieces of unused material.\n\nWith a heated pipe, it's a little more complicated. You can thread a regular pipe or weld a pre-threaded flange to a pipe. I chose the second option. It requires welding and post-processing, but if you do not have the necessary tools, this is not a bad option.\nAlso, it will be necessary to make a cut in the pipe for the funnel. Its walls will be cut with a laser, they will remain to be welded.\n\nInstead of a professional auger, I used a large 28x350 mm wood twist drill.\nUsed paint to prevent corrosion. Also, wires will be needed to connect the electronics. Detailed instructions for connecting the kit used are available online.\nClamps are required to attach to the table.", "_animationKey": "unique3", "images": [ { @@ -241,7 +241,7 @@ ], "title": "Add the design you like", "_animationKey": "uniquevtnrjq", - "text": "Incorporate design elements to enhance the machine's aesthetic appeal. Completion achieved." + "text": "I wanted this machine to be beautiful. Add design elements to your liking to make the device a pleasure to work with. And… done!" } ], "moderation": "accepted", @@ -270,7 +270,7 @@ "total_downloads": 77, "time": "1+ months", "mentions": [], - "description": "Desktop extruder for home use. Equipped with a socket for table clamping and transparent case walls for component visibility. Features a surface for pre-drying plastic.\n\nIncluded:\n1. 3D CAD (.SLDPRT)\n2. Photo set for assembling the extruder.\n\nThis extruder is intended for small batch production and public demonstrations. It is my design, but you are welcome to modify it.\n\nTo use, add plastic, turn the handle, and create your product.\n\nSuitable for working with plastic at melting temperatures up to 572°F (300°C). Originally built for 220 volts; can be adapted as needed.", + "description": "Desktop extruder for home use. It has a socket for fastening with clamps to the table. Transparent case walls allow you to see the components. Has a surface for pre-drying plastic.\n\nIn this folder you will find:\n1) 3D CAD (.SLDPRT)\n2) Photo set assembling extruder.\n\nThis extruder is designed for small batch production as well as public presentations. This is completely my development, but feel free to make changes to it at your discretion.\n\nFill in the plastic, twist the handle and \"voila!\" new eco-friendly recycled product!\n\nSuitable for working with plastic at melting temperatures up to 300 degrees. I built it for 220 volts (you can adapt it for yourself).", "title": "Desktop hand table extruder ", "files": [ null @@ -394,9 +394,5 @@ "urls": [] } }, - "content": "Desktop extruder for home use. Equipped with a socket for table clamping and transparent case walls for component visibility. Features a surface for pre-drying plastic.\n\nIncluded:\n1. 3D CAD (.SLDPRT)\n2. Photo set for assembling the extruder.\n\nThis extruder is intended for small batch production and public demonstrations. It is my design, but you are welcome to modify it.\n\nTo use, add plastic, turn the handle, and create your product.\n\nSuitable for working with plastic at melting temperatures up to 572°F (300°C). Originally built for 220 volts; can be adapted as needed.\n\n\nUser Location: Ivanovo, Russian Federation (the)\n\nIt may take some time for shipping, so it is advisable to begin with that. The REX-100 and a solid-state relay with thermocouple are often available as a kit. For heating, use two ring heaters and include a switch at the back.\n\nVarious materials were used for the project:\n\n- Base of mechanism, base, and small parts: structural steel 2 mm (0.08 inches)\n- Walls: plexiglass 2 mm (0.08 inches)\n- Handles: wood or plastic\n- Roof: sheet steel 0.4 mm (0.016 inches)\n\nConsult with the local manufacturer to determine the required file format for laser cutting and bending and convert your files accordingly. Common formats include .dxf, .cdr, or .dwg.\n\nThin sheet steel for the roof can be manually cut and bent. For all other parts, it is advisable to use automatic cutting to the specified dimensions for efficiency and high quality.\n\nYou may not need to purchase cutting materials, as they are often included in the plexiglass steel cutting service, preventing leftover waste.\n\nFor the heated pipe, options include threading a regular pipe or welding a pre-threaded flange. I opted for welding, which involves more work, but if you lack the tools, it's a suitable alternative. A pipe cut is necessary for the funnel, with laser-cut walls needing welding.\n\nI utilized a 28 mm (1.1 inches) by 350 mm (13.8 inches) wood twist drill instead of a professional auger. Paint was applied to prevent corrosion. Wiring is essential for connecting the electronics, with detailed instructions available online. Clamps are needed to secure the setup to the table.\n\nIncorporate design elements to enhance the machine's aesthetic appeal. Completion achieved.", - "keywords": "desktop extruder, home use, plastic extrusion, 3D CAD files, small batch production, thermocouple kit, plexiglass walls, table clamping, high-temperature plastic, steel cutting service", - "resources": "### Software\n\n- [SolidWorks](https://www.solidworks.com) (for 3D CAD `.SLDPRT` files) [1]\n- AutoCAD/CorelDRAW/LibreCAD (to convert files to `.dxf`, `.cdr`, or `.dwg` for laser cutting) [1]\n\n### Hardware\n\n- ~~[REX-100](https://example.com/REX-100)~~ motor with solid-state relay + thermocouple kit [2]\n- 2x ring heaters (220V compatible) + rear-mounted switch [2]\n- 28 mm x 350 mm wood twist drill (auger substitute) [3]\n- Threaded/welded pipe + flange (stainless steel, 300°C-rated) [3]\n- Table clamps for secure mounting [3]\n\n### Tools & Equipment\n\n- Laser cutting/bending services (for structural steel/plexiglass parts) [1]\n- Manual cutting tools (for 0.4 mm sheet steel) [2]\n- Welding equipment (pipe/funnel assembly) [3]\n- Painting supplies (corrosion prevention) [3]\n- Basic assembly tools (screwdrivers, pliers, etc.) [3]\n\n### Materials\n\n- Structural steel (2 mm thickness) [1]\n- Plexiglass sheets (2 mm thickness) [1]\n- Sheet steel (0.4 mm for roof) [1]\n- Wood/plastic (handles) [1]\n- Wiring (electronics connection) [3]\n\n### Additional\n\n- ~~[Electronics wiring guides](https://example.com/wiring-tutorials)~~ [3]\n- Local manufacturer consultation (file formatting) [1]\n- Aesthetic design elements (customization) [3]\n\n*Links are illustrative; specific suppliers depend on regional availability.*", - "references": "## References\n\n### Suppliers\n\n- [REX-100 & Solid-State Relay Kits (AliExpress)](https://www.aliexpress.com/)\n- ~~[Laser-Cutting Services (Chisel Lab)](https://chisel.tech/)~~\n\n### CAD Resources\n\n- [Autodesk Fusion 360](https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360)\n- [SolidWorks CAD Software](https://www.solidworks.com/)\n\n### Fabrication Services\n\n- [Local Ivanovo Laser-Cutting/CNC Providers](https://lasercut.ru/)\n\n### Hardware Components\n\n- ~~[Wood Twist Drills (Leroy Merlin RU)](https://leroymerlin.ru/)~~\n- [Ring Heaters (220V Compatible)](https://www.tme.eu/)\n\n### Safety & Electronics\n\n- [Thermocouple Wiring Guide (Instructables)](https://www.instructables.com/)\n\n### Tutorials\n\n- [Desktop Extruder Assembly (YouTube)](https://www.youtube.com/)\n\n### Open-Source Designs\n\n- [RepRap Extruder Modifications](https://reprap.org/)", - "brief": "Desktop extruder for home use with a table clamping socket, transparent case, and plastic pre-drying surface, ideal for small batch production and demos." + "content": "Desktop extruder for home use. It has a socket for fastening with clamps to the table. Transparent case walls allow you to see the components. Has a surface for pre-drying plastic.\n\nIn this folder you will find:\n1) 3D CAD (.SLDPRT)\n2) Photo set assembling extruder.\n\nThis extruder is designed for small batch production as well as public presentations. This is completely my development, but feel free to make changes to it at your discretion.\n\nFill in the plastic, twist the handle and \"voila!\" new eco-friendly recycled product!\n\nSuitable for working with plastic at melting temperatures up to 300 degrees. I built it for 220 volts (you can adapt it for yourself).\n\n\nUser Location: Ivanovo, Russian Federation (the)\n\nIt will most likely take time to ship, so it's best to start there. REX-100 and solid state relay with thermocouple can often be found as a kit. For heating, I used 2 ring heaters. Also, add a switch at the back.\n\nVarious materials were used for the project:\n\nfor the base of the mechanism, the base and small parts - structural steel 2 mm;\nfor walls - plexiglass 2 mm;\nfor handles - wood or plastic;\nfor the roof - sheet steel 0.4 mm.\n\nCheck with the local manufacturer in what format they need to transfer files for laser cutting and bending and convert the files to this format. Usually in the format .dxf, .cdr or .dwg\n\nThin sheet steel for the roof can be cut and bent by hand. I recommend cutting the rest exactly according to the dimensions of the drawing automatically. This will save you time and give excellent quality at a reasonable price.\n\nYou may not have to buy cutting materials yourself, they will already be in the plexiglass steel cutting service. This is beneficial, you will not be left with pieces of unused material.\n\nWith a heated pipe, it's a little more complicated. You can thread a regular pipe or weld a pre-threaded flange to a pipe. I chose the second option. It requires welding and post-processing, but if you do not have the necessary tools, this is not a bad option.\nAlso, it will be necessary to make a cut in the pipe for the funnel. Its walls will be cut with a laser, they will remain to be welded.\n\nInstead of a professional auger, I used a large 28x350 mm wood twist drill.\nUsed paint to prevent corrosion. Also, wires will be needed to connect the electronics. Detailed instructions for connecting the kit used are available online.\nClamps are required to attach to the table.\n\nI wanted this machine to be beautiful. Add design elements to your liking to make the device a pleasure to work with. And… done!" } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/double-face--2-colours--plastic-sheet-/README.md b/howtos/double-face--2-colours--plastic-sheet-/README.md index 5fc29db4b..5793fc5ef 100644 --- a/howtos/double-face--2-colours--plastic-sheet-/README.md +++ b/howtos/double-face--2-colours--plastic-sheet-/README.md @@ -1,81 +1,25 @@ --- title: Double Face ( 2 colours ) Plastic Sheet slug: double-face--2-colours--plastic-sheet- -description: # Building a Double Face Sheet Press - -## Required Materials and Tools - -1. **Materials** - - Steel sheets - - Bolts and nuts - - Metal bars - -2. **Tools** - - Welding machine - - Drill - - Measuring tape - -## Assembly Instructions - -1. **Frame Construction** - - Cut the metal bars to size (ensure all bars are equal in length: 1 meter or 39.37 inches). - - Weld the bars at right angles to form a rectangular frame. - -2. **Sheet Attachment** - - Drill holes into each corner of the steel sheets (0.1 inches or 2.54 mm in diameter). - - Align sheets with the frame and secure with bolts and nuts. - -3. **Final Adjustments** - - Ensure all connections are tight and secure. - - Test the press for stability before use. - -This guide provides fundamental steps to construct your press efficiently. +description: How to build your double face sheet press in easy steps. tags: ["mould","sheetpress"] category: uncategorized difficulty: Easy time: < 1 hour -keywords: double face sheet press, steel sheet assembly, DIY metal frame, welding and drilling, sheet attachment process, construction materials, mold preparation, temperature control, creating smooth surfaces, DIY double-sided projects +keywords: location: Rio de Janeiro, Brazil --- # Double Face ( 2 colours ) Plastic Sheet ![Double Face ( 2 colours ) Plastic Sheet ](final_1-18a62002431.jpg) -# Building a Double Face Sheet Press - -## Required Materials and Tools - -1. **Materials** - - Steel sheets - - Bolts and nuts - - Metal bars - -2. **Tools** - - Welding machine - - Drill - - Measuring tape - -## Assembly Instructions - -1. **Frame Construction** - - Cut the metal bars to size (ensure all bars are equal in length: 1 meter or 39.37 inches). - - Weld the bars at right angles to form a rectangular frame. - -2. **Sheet Attachment** - - Drill holes into each corner of the steel sheets (0.1 inches or 2.54 mm in diameter). - - Align sheets with the frame and secure with bolts and nuts. - -3. **Final Adjustments** - - Ensure all connections are tight and secure. - - Test the press for stability before use. - -This guide provides fundamental steps to construct your press efficiently. +How to build your double face sheet press in easy steps. User Location: Rio de Janeiro, Brazil ## Steps ### Step 1: Material Preparation -Ensure that the mold is clean and silicon is applied to prevent plastic from sticking. +Make sure that your mould is clean and that you have used silicon to avoid plastic sticking to it. -Begin by choosing two colors and weighing the material to match your mold's capacity. For instance, if your sheet requires 3 lbs (1400 g), weigh 1.5 lbs (700 g) each of orange and blue flakes. +First step is to select two colours and weigh the material according to your mould size. In this case, our sheet is 1400g, so we used the scale to weigh 700g from organde and 700g from blue flakes ![WhatsApp Image 2023-09-01 at 17.10.27-18a61f28a85.jpg](./WhatsApp_Image_2023-09-01_at_17.10.27-18a61f28a85.jpg) @@ -88,11 +32,11 @@ Begin by choosing two colors and weighing the material to match your mold's capa ### Step 2: Melt your plastic by layers -Place the single-colored flakes into the molds and melt them at a low temperature, approximately 320°F (160°C). Avoid high temperatures as the cover mold is not yet in use. +Place all the one coloured flakes into the moulds and melt it at low temperature ( around 160 C using our oven). The temperature should not be so high since we are not yet using the cover mould on top. -Once the first layer is evenly melted, add a second layer (such as blue) and apply the top mold. Act quickly to prevent the first layer from cooling too rapidly and forming a surface division. +Once the first layer is homogeneously melted, put the other layer ( in our case, blue) on top of the melted layers and cover it with the top mould. Attention: try to be quick in this procedure to avoid that the first layer cools off too fast and create a surface division. -Return the assembly to the oven until the new layer melts, which typically takes about 15 minutes at a slightly increased temperature of 356 - 374°F (180 - 190°C). +Put it back into the oven until the new layer is also melted ( around 15min in our oven). Here we raised a bit the temperature to 180 - 190 C. ![layer 1.1-18a61f43546.jpg](./layer_1.1-18a61f43546.jpg) @@ -105,9 +49,9 @@ Return the assembly to the oven until the new layer melts, which typically takes ### Step 3: Finalize your sheet -After removing from the oven, press the mold in the sheet press to eliminate bubbles and achieve a smooth surface. +After the oven, make sure you press the mould in the sheet press to remove all bubbles and ensure a smooth surface! -Once pressed and cooled, your sheet is ready for use. Consider creating items like double-sided shelves, stools, or tables. +After pressing and cooling, your sheet is ready! Explore the several creative things you can do with such sheets such as double-face shelves, stools, tables and so on! ;) ![layer 2.1-18a61fe0601.jpg](./layer_2.1-18a61fe0601.jpg) @@ -119,55 +63,4 @@ Once pressed and cooled, your sheet is ready for use. Consider creating items li ![final 2-18a61fe31d3.jpg](./final_2-18a61fe31d3.jpg) ## Resources -### Tools - -- Welding machine -- Drill -- Measuring tape - and other essential tools are required for assembly. Operational tools include: -- Oven (for melting flakes) -- Scale (for measuring material weight) - -### Hardware - -Key structural components and materials: - -- Steel sheets -- Bolts and nuts -- Metal bars -- Mold (cleaned and silicon-treated) -- Plastic flakes (two colors) - -Silicon application ensures non-stick mold surfaces[1][2][3]. Temperature-controlled ovens and precise weighing tools are critical for layered melting[4][5][6]. -## References -### Articles - -- [Double-sided printable magnetic sheets | DigiMag Duplex](https://magnummagnetics.com/digimag-duplex/) -- [Best Practices for Press-Fit Assembly](https://www.assemblymag.com/articles/93984-best-practices-for-press-fit-assembly) -- [How do you create a double-sided file? - Adobe Community](https://community.adobe.com/t5/photoshop-ecosystem-discussions/how-do-you-create-a-double-sided-file/m-p/11951238) -- ~~[Stamping 101: Anatomy of a Mechanical Stamping Press](https://www.thefabricator.com/thefabricator/article/bending/stamping-101-anatomy-of-a-mechanical-stamping-press)~~ -- [Can You Print Double-Sided with Offset? Tips for Accurate Results](https://www.vslprint.com/printing-nyc/offset/can-you-print-double-sided-with-offset-tips-for-accurate-results/) -- [Low-Cost Press Forming Technique - Ganoksin Jewelry Making](https://www.ganoksin.com/article/low-cost-press-forming-technique/) - -### Books - -- [R for Data Science](https://digitallibrary.tsu.ge/book/2019/september/books/R-for-Data-Science.pdf) - -### Papers - -- [Pressing - AstenJohnson](https://www.astenjohnson.com/img/chapter-previews/chapter-3.pdf) -- [From Print to Ebooks: A Hybrid Publishing Toolkit for the Arts](https://networkcultures.org/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/0419-HVA_DPT_from_print_to_ebooks_OS_RGB_aanp_lr_totaal.pdf) -- [EasyEDA Tutorial](https://image.easyeda.com/files/EasyEDA-Tutorial_v6.4.32.pdf) - -### YouTube - -- [Build a PRO sheetpress machine and make sheets (part 3.7)](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j3OctDe3xVk) -- [The Open Press Project - The Open Source #3DPrinted Printing Press](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uFCi9vd_tmo) -- [How To Make A Plastic Sheet With A Sheetpress?! | By Wedoo](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nQEvEjdvToQ) - -### Open-source Designs - -- DIY Sheet Press - Dave Hakkens -- 1.5x1.5 Meter Sheet Press machine -- Start a Sheetpress Workspace to Recycle Plastic -- SHEET PRESS MACHINE 1x1 Meter ( CE Certified & Factory Made) \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/double-face--2-colours--plastic-sheet-/config.json b/howtos/double-face--2-colours--plastic-sheet-/config.json index 6fe75366d..3949bcc37 100644 --- a/howtos/double-face--2-colours--plastic-sheet-/config.json +++ b/howtos/double-face--2-colours--plastic-sheet-/config.json @@ -59,11 +59,11 @@ } ], "title": "Material Preparation", - "text": "Ensure that the mold is clean and silicon is applied to prevent plastic from sticking.\n\nBegin by choosing two colors and weighing the material to match your mold's capacity. For instance, if your sheet requires 3 lbs (1400 g), weigh 1.5 lbs (700 g) each of orange and blue flakes." + "text": "Make sure that your mould is clean and that you have used silicon to avoid plastic sticking to it. \n\nFirst step is to select two colours and weigh the material according to your mould size. In this case, our sheet is 1400g, so we used the scale to weigh 700g from organde and 700g from blue flakes " }, { "title": "Melt your plastic by layers ", - "text": "Place the single-colored flakes into the molds and melt them at a low temperature, approximately 320°F (160°C). Avoid high temperatures as the cover mold is not yet in use.\n\nOnce the first layer is evenly melted, add a second layer (such as blue) and apply the top mold. Act quickly to prevent the first layer from cooling too rapidly and forming a surface division.\n\nReturn the assembly to the oven until the new layer melts, which typically takes about 15 minutes at a slightly increased temperature of 356 - 374°F (180 - 190°C).", + "text": "Place all the one coloured flakes into the moulds and melt it at low temperature ( around 160 C using our oven). The temperature should not be so high since we are not yet using the cover mould on top. \n\nOnce the first layer is homogeneously melted, put the other layer ( in our case, blue) on top of the melted layers and cover it with the top mould. Attention: try to be quick in this procedure to avoid that the first layer cools off too fast and create a surface division. \n\nPut it back into the oven until the new layer is also melted ( around 15min in our oven). Here we raised a bit the temperature to 180 - 190 C. ", "images": [ { "name": "layer 1.1-18a61f43546.jpg", @@ -105,7 +105,7 @@ "_animationKey": "unique2" }, { - "text": "After removing from the oven, press the mold in the sheet press to eliminate bubbles and achieve a smooth surface.\n\nOnce pressed and cooled, your sheet is ready for use. Consider creating items like double-sided shelves, stools, or tables.", + "text": "After the oven, make sure you press the mould in the sheet press to remove all bubbles and ensure a smooth surface! \n\nAfter pressing and cooling, your sheet is ready! Explore the several creative things you can do with such sheets such as double-face shelves, stools, tables and so on! ;) ", "_animationKey": "unique3", "title": "Finalize your sheet ", "images": [ @@ -159,7 +159,7 @@ "double-face--2-colours--plastic-sheet-" ], "fileLink": "", - "description": "# Building a Double Face Sheet Press\n\n## Required Materials and Tools\n\n1. **Materials**\n - Steel sheets\n - Bolts and nuts\n - Metal bars\n\n2. **Tools**\n - Welding machine\n - Drill\n - Measuring tape\n\n## Assembly Instructions\n\n1. **Frame Construction**\n - Cut the metal bars to size (ensure all bars are equal in length: 1 meter or 39.37 inches).\n - Weld the bars at right angles to form a rectangular frame.\n\n2. **Sheet Attachment**\n - Drill holes into each corner of the steel sheets (0.1 inches or 2.54 mm in diameter).\n - Align sheets with the frame and secure with bolts and nuts.\n\n3. **Final Adjustments**\n - Ensure all connections are tight and secure.\n - Test the press for stability before use. \n\nThis guide provides fundamental steps to construct your press efficiently.", + "description": "How to build your double face sheet press in easy steps. ", "creatorCountry": "br", "comments": [ { @@ -349,9 +349,5 @@ "category": { "label": "uncategorized" }, - "content": "# Building a Double Face Sheet Press\n\n## Required Materials and Tools\n\n1. **Materials**\n - Steel sheets\n - Bolts and nuts\n - Metal bars\n\n2. **Tools**\n - Welding machine\n - Drill\n - Measuring tape\n\n## Assembly Instructions\n\n1. **Frame Construction**\n - Cut the metal bars to size (ensure all bars are equal in length: 1 meter or 39.37 inches).\n - Weld the bars at right angles to form a rectangular frame.\n\n2. **Sheet Attachment**\n - Drill holes into each corner of the steel sheets (0.1 inches or 2.54 mm in diameter).\n - Align sheets with the frame and secure with bolts and nuts.\n\n3. **Final Adjustments**\n - Ensure all connections are tight and secure.\n - Test the press for stability before use. \n\nThis guide provides fundamental steps to construct your press efficiently.\n\n\nUser Location: Rio de Janeiro, Brazil\n\nEnsure that the mold is clean and silicon is applied to prevent plastic from sticking.\n\nBegin by choosing two colors and weighing the material to match your mold's capacity. For instance, if your sheet requires 3 lbs (1400 g), weigh 1.5 lbs (700 g) each of orange and blue flakes.\n\nPlace the single-colored flakes into the molds and melt them at a low temperature, approximately 320°F (160°C). Avoid high temperatures as the cover mold is not yet in use.\n\nOnce the first layer is evenly melted, add a second layer (such as blue) and apply the top mold. Act quickly to prevent the first layer from cooling too rapidly and forming a surface division.\n\nReturn the assembly to the oven until the new layer melts, which typically takes about 15 minutes at a slightly increased temperature of 356 - 374°F (180 - 190°C).\n\nAfter removing from the oven, press the mold in the sheet press to eliminate bubbles and achieve a smooth surface.\n\nOnce pressed and cooled, your sheet is ready for use. Consider creating items like double-sided shelves, stools, or tables.", - "keywords": "double face sheet press, steel sheet assembly, DIY metal frame, welding and drilling, sheet attachment process, construction materials, mold preparation, temperature control, creating smooth surfaces, DIY double-sided projects", - "resources": "### Tools\n\n- Welding machine\n- Drill\n- Measuring tape\n and other essential tools are required for assembly. Operational tools include:\n- Oven (for melting flakes)\n- Scale (for measuring material weight)\n\n### Hardware\n\nKey structural components and materials:\n\n- Steel sheets\n- Bolts and nuts\n- Metal bars\n- Mold (cleaned and silicon-treated)\n- Plastic flakes (two colors)\n\nSilicon application ensures non-stick mold surfaces[1][2][3]. Temperature-controlled ovens and precise weighing tools are critical for layered melting[4][5][6].", - "references": "### Articles\n\n- [Double-sided printable magnetic sheets | DigiMag Duplex](https://magnummagnetics.com/digimag-duplex/)\n- [Best Practices for Press-Fit Assembly](https://www.assemblymag.com/articles/93984-best-practices-for-press-fit-assembly)\n- [How do you create a double-sided file? - Adobe Community](https://community.adobe.com/t5/photoshop-ecosystem-discussions/how-do-you-create-a-double-sided-file/m-p/11951238)\n- ~~[Stamping 101: Anatomy of a Mechanical Stamping Press](https://www.thefabricator.com/thefabricator/article/bending/stamping-101-anatomy-of-a-mechanical-stamping-press)~~\n- [Can You Print Double-Sided with Offset? Tips for Accurate Results](https://www.vslprint.com/printing-nyc/offset/can-you-print-double-sided-with-offset-tips-for-accurate-results/)\n- [Low-Cost Press Forming Technique - Ganoksin Jewelry Making](https://www.ganoksin.com/article/low-cost-press-forming-technique/)\n\n### Books\n\n- [R for Data Science](https://digitallibrary.tsu.ge/book/2019/september/books/R-for-Data-Science.pdf)\n\n### Papers\n\n- [Pressing - AstenJohnson](https://www.astenjohnson.com/img/chapter-previews/chapter-3.pdf)\n- [From Print to Ebooks: A Hybrid Publishing Toolkit for the Arts](https://networkcultures.org/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/0419-HVA_DPT_from_print_to_ebooks_OS_RGB_aanp_lr_totaal.pdf)\n- [EasyEDA Tutorial](https://image.easyeda.com/files/EasyEDA-Tutorial_v6.4.32.pdf)\n\n### YouTube\n\n- [Build a PRO sheetpress machine and make sheets (part 3.7)](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j3OctDe3xVk)\n- [The Open Press Project - The Open Source #3DPrinted Printing Press](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uFCi9vd_tmo)\n- [How To Make A Plastic Sheet With A Sheetpress?! | By Wedoo](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nQEvEjdvToQ)\n\n### Open-source Designs\n\n- DIY Sheet Press - Dave Hakkens\n- 1.5x1.5 Meter Sheet Press machine\n- Start a Sheetpress Workspace to Recycle Plastic\n- SHEET PRESS MACHINE 1x1 Meter ( CE Certified & Factory Made)", - "brief": "Construct a double face sheet press using steel sheets, metal bars, and bolts. Follow assembly instructions for a sturdy, efficient press perfect for crafting.\n" + "content": "How to build your double face sheet press in easy steps. \n\n\nUser Location: Rio de Janeiro, Brazil\n\nMake sure that your mould is clean and that you have used silicon to avoid plastic sticking to it. \n\nFirst step is to select two colours and weigh the material according to your mould size. In this case, our sheet is 1400g, so we used the scale to weigh 700g from organde and 700g from blue flakes \n\nPlace all the one coloured flakes into the moulds and melt it at low temperature ( around 160 C using our oven). The temperature should not be so high since we are not yet using the cover mould on top. \n\nOnce the first layer is homogeneously melted, put the other layer ( in our case, blue) on top of the melted layers and cover it with the top mould. Attention: try to be quick in this procedure to avoid that the first layer cools off too fast and create a surface division. \n\nPut it back into the oven until the new layer is also melted ( around 15min in our oven). Here we raised a bit the temperature to 180 - 190 C. \n\nAfter the oven, make sure you press the mould in the sheet press to remove all bubbles and ensure a smooth surface! \n\nAfter pressing and cooling, your sheet is ready! Explore the several creative things you can do with such sheets such as double-face shelves, stools, tables and so on! ;) " } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/dry-materials-for-higher-quality-products/README.md b/howtos/dry-materials-for-higher-quality-products/README.md index 7bc31defd..5a6fe0e71 100644 --- a/howtos/dry-materials-for-higher-quality-products/README.md +++ b/howtos/dry-materials-for-higher-quality-products/README.md @@ -1,58 +1,47 @@ --- title: Dry materials for higher quality products slug: dry-materials-for-higher-quality-products -description: ### Drying Granulate for Extrusion +description: When you want to make products using more advanced Materials (e.g. industrial waste), drying your granulate is a necessary step. +We will show you how to dry your granulate before extrusion cheaply and effectively, which is especially important if you want to make high quality products like 3d printing filament. -For advanced materials, such as industrial waste, drying granulate is essential before extrusion. This step is crucial for producing high-quality products like 3D printing filament. - -For a detailed guide, refer to our video: -[How-To Video](https://youtu.be/dkm_gXxX2pk) +You can check out our How-To video here: +https://youtu.be/dkm_gXxX2pk tags: ["hack"] category: Guides difficulty: Easy time: < 1 hour -keywords: drying granulate, extrusion process, polymer drying methods, DIY dry box, silica gel, polymer moisture control, vacuum dryer effectiveness, 3D printing filament quality, polar vs nonpolar polymers, moisture measurement techniques +keywords: location: Darmstadt, Germany --- # Dry materials for higher quality products ![Dry materials for higher quality products](Precious_Plastic_Thumbnail.jpg) -### Drying Granulate for Extrusion +When you want to make products using more advanced Materials (e.g. industrial waste), drying your granulate is a necessary step. +We will show you how to dry your granulate before extrusion cheaply and effectively, which is especially important if you want to make high quality products like 3d printing filament. -For advanced materials, such as industrial waste, drying granulate is essential before extrusion. This step is crucial for producing high-quality products like 3D printing filament. - -For a detailed guide, refer to our video: -[How-To Video](https://youtu.be/dkm_gXxX2pk) +You can check out our How-To video here: +https://youtu.be/dkm_gXxX2pk User Location: Darmstadt, Germany ## Steps ### Step 1: When and why to dry -### Types of Polymers and Moisture Considerations - -Polymers are classified as polar or nonpolar. Nonpolar materials, like HDPE and PP, typically do not require drying, as they repel water similarly to oil. In contrast, many commercial polymers with polar characteristics can absorb moisture from the air. Drying is often essential to prevent cosmetic defects, such as splay or silver streaking, and to maintain material integrity. Polar polymers may undergo hydrolysis if processed with excess moisture, reducing their strength. For more details, refer to the material overview below. +There are two main types of polymers, polar and nonpolar. Nonpolar Materials usually don't need to be dried. Exposing nonpolar materials (HDPE/PP etc.) to water is like putting oil in water. Almost every other commercial polymer has some level of polarity and therefore can absorb a certain amount of moisture from the air. Many materials are dried only to optimize surface appearance, too much moisture can lead to cosmetic defects known as splay or silver streaking. Other polymers are damaged if they are processed with too much moisture. These materials chemically react with the moisture (hydrolysis), resulting in a reduction in material strength. Check out the material overview below. ![Erste Tabelle_Zeichenfläche 1.png](./Erste_Tabelle_Zeichenflache_1.png) ### Step 2: Different drying methods -### DIY Polymer Drying Methods +There are several different DIY methods to dry polymeres; you can use an oven, a dehydrator or a vacuum dryer. +But In this How-To we will focus on a self-built drybox with silica gel, because this method delivers the best results while being cheap, easy and energy efficient. One of the problems we encountered with the oven is overheating the plastic, resulting in a big mess. We tried replacing the silica gel with a household dehydrator, but they are not designed to achieve this kind of low humidity levels needed to effectively dry plastic. We also included a temperature table for different polymers. -Several DIY methods exist for drying polymers, including an oven, dehydrator, or vacuum dryer. Here, we focus on constructing a dry box with silica gel, as it offers optimal results while being cost-effective, simple, and energy-efficient. Using an oven can lead to overheating, causing issues. Household dehydrators are not suitable for reaching the low humidity levels necessary for effective polymer drying. Below is a temperature guide for different polymers. - -- **Oven:** Prone to overheating polymers. -- **Dehydrator:** Inadequate for low humidity requirements. -- **Vacuum Dryer:** Effective but more complex than a dry box. - -#### Temperature Guide (for reference): -- [Include a table with temperature values for various polymers, converted from metric to imperial or vice versa where necessary.] ![Zweite Tabelle_Zeichenfläche 1.png](./Zweite_Tabelle_Zeichenflache_1.png) ### Step 3: Make and airtight plastic box -To create our drybox, use a plastic container and enhance it with window seals to ensure it is airtight. Glue the seals to the rim of the container. +To make our drybox, we simply use a plastic box that we upgrade with some window seals to make it airtight. Simply, glue them to the rim of the box. ![Step 3 (2).jpg](./Step_3_2.jpg) @@ -62,7 +51,8 @@ To create our drybox, use a plastic container and enhance it with window seals t ### Step 4: Get Silica Gel -You might recognize silica gel from shoe packaging. These small bags absorb moisture to keep items dry. Silica gel is also effective with polymers. Place about 2 kilograms (4.4 pounds) in the plastic box. While there is no exact required amount, more gel means less frequent drying is needed. +You might already know silica gel from a shoebox for instance. It comes in small bags in order to keep the inside dry by absorbing any moisture. Silica gel works perfectly with polymers as well so just put around 2 kilograms in the plastic box. There is no particular amount you have to use, but the more you have in the box the less often you need to take them out and dry them. + ![Step 4 .jpg](./Step_4_.jpg) @@ -72,7 +62,8 @@ You might recognize silica gel from shoe packaging. These small bags absorb mois ### Step 5: Get a hygrometer -To monitor humidity within the drybox, a hygrometer is useful. A transparent box allows for continuous observation of the drying process. +A hygrometer comes in handy to check the humidity inside the drybox. It is convenient to use a transparent box so you can keep track of the drying process at all time. + ![Step 5.jpg](./Step_5.jpg) @@ -82,7 +73,8 @@ To monitor humidity within the drybox, a hygrometer is useful. A transparent box ### Step 6: Place granulate inside the box -Using a microplastic bag (e.g., one from Guppyfriend) inside the drybox conserves time and space by containing the materials while allowing humidity to escape. +Using a microplastic bag (we use one from Guppyfriend) to place the material inside of the drybox will save you time and space. It keeps everything in place while the humidity can get out. + ![Step 6.jpg](./Step_6.jpg) @@ -92,21 +84,27 @@ Using a microplastic bag (e.g., one from Guppyfriend) inside the drybox conserve ### Step 7: Check the results -The simplest way to measure moisture absorption is by weighing the granulate before and after drying. However, using hot air releases volatiles, which decreases weight but not accurately reflects moisture loss. Accurate moisture measurements require sensors placed in the drying hopper, which use real-time dielectric property measurements; however, these sensors are costly. +The simplest method to measure how much moisture has been absorbed is weighing the granulate beforehand and afterwards. +Unfortunately, if you are using hot air to dry granulat, volatiles are released from the sample, also reducing the weight. Therefore the weight loss does not exactly equal the loss of moisture so the measurement is imprecise. The professional approach involves making accurate moisture measurements in the drying hopper. This is possible using measurements of dielectric properties in real time. sensors are very expensive though. + ![Step 7.jpg](./Step_7.jpg) ### Step 8: Renew the silica gel -After some time, silica gel will reach its maximum water absorption capacity. Place it in the oven at 100°C (212°F) for one to two hours to restore its effectiveness. +After a while, you will notice that the silica gel reaches its maximum capacity of water that it can absorb. Simply put it in the oven for one or two hours at about 100°C/212°F and it will be as good as new. + ![Def7hdBUwAA2YTq.jpg](./Def7hdBUwAA2YTq.jpg) ### Step 9: Bonus tip -Rapid temperature changes cause surface moisture. For example, when a cold drink is outside in hot weather, condensation forms. The same occurs with polymers. Moving plastic from a cold, damp garage to a warm production area led to surface moisture, causing bubbles and inconsistencies in our 3D-printing filament. +Rapid changes in the Temperature lead to surface moisture. +If a cold drink placed outside in the hot summer, you will notice that water starts condensing on the surface. +This also is the case for polymers. We had many problems because we took plastic from the cold, damp garage to the warm production area. This resulted in a lot of surface moisture that produced bubbles and inconsistencies in our 3D-Printing Filament. + ![Step last.jpg](./Step_last.jpg) @@ -118,48 +116,4 @@ Rapid temperature changes cause surface moisture. For example, when a cold drink ![Ste last 3.jpg](./Ste_last_3.jpg) ## Resources -### Tools - -- Hygrometer (monitor humidity levels in drybox) -- Weighing scale (measure granulate weight pre/post drying) -- Oven (reactivate silica gel at 100°C/212°F [1]) - -### Software - -No specific software required. - -### Hardware - -- **Dry box** ([construction guide](https://youtu.be/dkm_gXxX2pk): plastic container + window seals) [1] -- Silica gel (2 kg, reusable after baking) [1][2] -- Airtight plastic container (modified with window seals) [1] -- Microplastic bags (e.g., Guppyfriend brand) [1] -- Heating source (oven for silica reactivation) [1] -## References -## Articles - -- [Drying Extrusion Granulation Production Line](https://www.yjing-extrusion.com/where-is-there-a-drying-extrusion-granulation-production-line.html) -- [How to DIY Filament Dryer](https://kingroon.com/blogs/3d-print-101/how-to-diy-filament-dryer) - -## Books - -- [Extrusion - 2nd Edition](https://shop.elsevier.com/books/exitrus-ion/giles-jr/978-1-4377-3481-2) -- [Extrusion: The Definitive Processing Guide and Handbook](https://bronze.ir/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/Extrusion-The-Definitive-Processing-Guide-and-Handbook.pdf) - -## Papers - -- [Moisture Effects in Common Solderable RF Connector Dielectrics](https://www.circuitinsight.com/pdf/Moisture_Effects_Common_Solderable_RF_Connector_Dielectrics_smta.pdf) -- [Real-time Monitoring of Drying Extruded Granules in Fluid-bed Dryer](https://pubs.rsc.org/en/content/articlelanding/2014/ra/c4ra06433j) -- [PET Extrusion Coating](https://www.tappi.org/content/events/07europlace/papers/07europl41.pdf) - -## YouTube - -- [Ultimate Dry Box for 3D Printer Filament](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=teQsyqK07QE) -- [DIY 3D Printing Filament Dry Box](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=txF2oQPIjb4) -- [Simple 3D Printer Filament Dry Box](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z3znzGC4HaE) - -## Opensource Designs - -- [Instructables Filament Dry Box](https://www.instructables.com/3D-Printer-Filament-Dry-Box/) -- [DIY Heated DryBox for 3D Printing](https://richrap.blogspot.com/2018/02/diy-heated-drybox-for-3d-printing.html) -- [Open Source Filament Dry Box Design](https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/Open_Source_Filament_Dry_Box) \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/dry-materials-for-higher-quality-products/config.json b/howtos/dry-materials-for-higher-quality-products/config.json index ceceb9b44..0202fa10a 100644 --- a/howtos/dry-materials-for-higher-quality-products/config.json +++ b/howtos/dry-materials-for-higher-quality-products/config.json @@ -4,7 +4,7 @@ "_id": "2hY1ZUWOOgdlRQrpUIIm", "steps": [ { - "text": "### Types of Polymers and Moisture Considerations\n\nPolymers are classified as polar or nonpolar. Nonpolar materials, like HDPE and PP, typically do not require drying, as they repel water similarly to oil. In contrast, many commercial polymers with polar characteristics can absorb moisture from the air. Drying is often essential to prevent cosmetic defects, such as splay or silver streaking, and to maintain material integrity. Polar polymers may undergo hydrolysis if processed with excess moisture, reducing their strength. For more details, refer to the material overview below.", + "text": "There are two main types of polymers, polar and nonpolar. Nonpolar Materials usually don't need to be dried. Exposing nonpolar materials (HDPE/PP etc.) to water is like putting oil in water. Almost every other commercial polymer has some level of polarity and therefore can absorb a certain amount of moisture from the air. Many materials are dried only to optimize surface appearance, too much moisture can lead to cosmetic defects known as splay or silver streaking. Other polymers are damaged if they are processed with too much moisture. These materials chemically react with the moisture (hydrolysis), resulting in a reduction in material strength. Check out the material overview below.", "_animationKey": "unique1", "title": "When and why to dry", "images": [ @@ -37,7 +37,7 @@ "alt": "Zweite Tabelle_Zeichenfläche 1.png" } ], - "text": "### DIY Polymer Drying Methods\n\nSeveral DIY methods exist for drying polymers, including an oven, dehydrator, or vacuum dryer. Here, we focus on constructing a dry box with silica gel, as it offers optimal results while being cost-effective, simple, and energy-efficient. Using an oven can lead to overheating, causing issues. Household dehydrators are not suitable for reaching the low humidity levels necessary for effective polymer drying. Below is a temperature guide for different polymers. \n\n- **Oven:** Prone to overheating polymers.\n- **Dehydrator:** Inadequate for low humidity requirements.\n- **Vacuum Dryer:** Effective but more complex than a dry box. \n\n#### Temperature Guide (for reference):\n- [Include a table with temperature values for various polymers, converted from metric to imperial or vice versa where necessary.]", + "text": "There are several different DIY methods to dry polymeres; you can use an oven, a dehydrator or a vacuum dryer.\nBut In this How-To we will focus on a self-built drybox with silica gel, because this method delivers the best results while being cheap, easy and energy efficient. One of the problems we encountered with the oven is overheating the plastic, resulting in a big mess. We tried replacing the silica gel with a household dehydrator, but they are not designed to achieve this kind of low humidity levels needed to effectively dry plastic. We also included a temperature table for different polymers.\n", "_animationKey": "unique2", "title": "Different drying methods" }, @@ -69,7 +69,7 @@ } ], "_animationKey": "unique3", - "text": "To create our drybox, use a plastic container and enhance it with window seals to ensure it is airtight. Glue the seals to the rim of the container.", + "text": "To make our drybox, we simply use a plastic box that we upgrade with some window seals to make it airtight. Simply, glue them to the rim of the box.", "title": "Make and airtight plastic box" }, { @@ -101,11 +101,11 @@ "alt": "Step 4 (1).jpg" } ], - "text": "You might recognize silica gel from shoe packaging. These small bags absorb moisture to keep items dry. Silica gel is also effective with polymers. Place about 2 kilograms (4.4 pounds) in the plastic box. While there is no exact required amount, more gel means less frequent drying is needed." + "text": "You might already know silica gel from a shoebox for instance. It comes in small bags in order to keep the inside dry by absorbing any moisture. Silica gel works perfectly with polymers as well so just put around 2 kilograms in the plastic box. There is no particular amount you have to use, but the more you have in the box the less often you need to take them out and dry them.\n" }, { "_animationKey": "uniquezql6vm", - "text": "To monitor humidity within the drybox, a hygrometer is useful. A transparent box allows for continuous observation of the drying process.", + "text": "A hygrometer comes in handy to check the humidity inside the drybox. It is convenient to use a transparent box so you can keep track of the drying process at all time.\n", "images": [ { "downloadUrl": "https://firebasestorage.googleapis.com/v0/b/onearmyworld.appspot.com/o/uploads%2Fhowtos%2F2hY1ZUWOOgdlRQrpUIIm%2FStep%205.jpg?alt=media&token=fac32d09-bf72-4ac8-8584-007bdd3aeb47", @@ -162,12 +162,12 @@ "alt": "Step 6 (2).jpg" } ], - "text": "Using a microplastic bag (e.g., one from Guppyfriend) inside the drybox conserves time and space by containing the materials while allowing humidity to escape.", + "text": "Using a microplastic bag (we use one from Guppyfriend) to place the material inside of the drybox will save you time and space. It keeps everything in place while the humidity can get out.\n", "title": "Place granulate inside the box" }, { "_animationKey": "uniqueko7p1", - "text": "The simplest way to measure moisture absorption is by weighing the granulate before and after drying. However, using hot air releases volatiles, which decreases weight but not accurately reflects moisture loss. Accurate moisture measurements require sensors placed in the drying hopper, which use real-time dielectric property measurements; however, these sensors are costly.", + "text": "The simplest method to measure how much moisture has been absorbed is weighing the granulate beforehand and afterwards. \nUnfortunately, if you are using hot air to dry granulat, volatiles are released from the sample, also reducing the weight. Therefore the weight loss does not exactly equal the loss of moisture so the measurement is imprecise. The professional approach involves making accurate moisture measurements in the drying hopper. This is possible using measurements of dielectric properties in real time. sensors are very expensive though.\n", "images": [ { "type": "image/jpeg", @@ -186,7 +186,7 @@ }, { "_animationKey": "uniquezmow7q", - "text": "After some time, silica gel will reach its maximum water absorption capacity. Place it in the oven at 100°C (212°F) for one to two hours to restore its effectiveness.", + "text": "After a while, you will notice that the silica gel reaches its maximum capacity of water that it can absorb. Simply put it in the oven for one or two hours at about 100°C/212°F and it will be as good as new.\n", "images": [ { "size": 275739, @@ -204,7 +204,7 @@ "title": "Renew the silica gel" }, { - "text": "Rapid temperature changes cause surface moisture. For example, when a cold drink is outside in hot weather, condensation forms. The same occurs with polymers. Moving plastic from a cold, damp garage to a warm production area led to surface moisture, causing bubbles and inconsistencies in our 3D-printing filament.", + "text": "Rapid changes in the Temperature lead to surface moisture.\nIf a cold drink placed outside in the hot summer, you will notice that water starts condensing on the surface.\nThis also is the case for polymers. We had many problems because we took plastic from the cold, damp garage to the warm production area. This resulted in a lot of surface moisture that produced bubbles and inconsistencies in our 3D-Printing Filament.\n", "title": "Bonus tip", "_animationKey": "unique3hd523", "images": [ @@ -251,7 +251,7 @@ "_deleted": false, "fileLink": "", "_modified": "2024-01-06T08:22:06.532Z", - "description": "### Drying Granulate for Extrusion\n\nFor advanced materials, such as industrial waste, drying granulate is essential before extrusion. This step is crucial for producing high-quality products like 3D printing filament. \n\nFor a detailed guide, refer to our video: \n[How-To Video](https://youtu.be/dkm_gXxX2pk)", + "description": "When you want to make products using more advanced Materials (e.g. industrial waste), drying your granulate is a necessary step. \nWe will show you how to dry your granulate before extrusion cheaply and effectively, which is especially important if you want to make high quality products like 3d printing filament.\n\nYou can check out our How-To video here:\nhttps://youtu.be/dkm_gXxX2pk", "category": { "_modified": "2022-09-18T08:51:47.196Z", "label": "Guides", @@ -466,9 +466,5 @@ "images": [] } }, - "content": "### Drying Granulate for Extrusion\n\nFor advanced materials, such as industrial waste, drying granulate is essential before extrusion. This step is crucial for producing high-quality products like 3D printing filament. \n\nFor a detailed guide, refer to our video: \n[How-To Video](https://youtu.be/dkm_gXxX2pk)\n\n\nUser Location: Darmstadt, Germany\n\n### Types of Polymers and Moisture Considerations\n\nPolymers are classified as polar or nonpolar. Nonpolar materials, like HDPE and PP, typically do not require drying, as they repel water similarly to oil. In contrast, many commercial polymers with polar characteristics can absorb moisture from the air. Drying is often essential to prevent cosmetic defects, such as splay or silver streaking, and to maintain material integrity. Polar polymers may undergo hydrolysis if processed with excess moisture, reducing their strength. For more details, refer to the material overview below.\n\n### DIY Polymer Drying Methods\n\nSeveral DIY methods exist for drying polymers, including an oven, dehydrator, or vacuum dryer. Here, we focus on constructing a dry box with silica gel, as it offers optimal results while being cost-effective, simple, and energy-efficient. Using an oven can lead to overheating, causing issues. Household dehydrators are not suitable for reaching the low humidity levels necessary for effective polymer drying. Below is a temperature guide for different polymers. \n\n- **Oven:** Prone to overheating polymers.\n- **Dehydrator:** Inadequate for low humidity requirements.\n- **Vacuum Dryer:** Effective but more complex than a dry box. \n\n#### Temperature Guide (for reference):\n- [Include a table with temperature values for various polymers, converted from metric to imperial or vice versa where necessary.]\n\nTo create our drybox, use a plastic container and enhance it with window seals to ensure it is airtight. Glue the seals to the rim of the container.\n\nYou might recognize silica gel from shoe packaging. These small bags absorb moisture to keep items dry. Silica gel is also effective with polymers. Place about 2 kilograms (4.4 pounds) in the plastic box. While there is no exact required amount, more gel means less frequent drying is needed.\n\nTo monitor humidity within the drybox, a hygrometer is useful. A transparent box allows for continuous observation of the drying process.\n\nUsing a microplastic bag (e.g., one from Guppyfriend) inside the drybox conserves time and space by containing the materials while allowing humidity to escape.\n\nThe simplest way to measure moisture absorption is by weighing the granulate before and after drying. However, using hot air releases volatiles, which decreases weight but not accurately reflects moisture loss. Accurate moisture measurements require sensors placed in the drying hopper, which use real-time dielectric property measurements; however, these sensors are costly.\n\nAfter some time, silica gel will reach its maximum water absorption capacity. Place it in the oven at 100°C (212°F) for one to two hours to restore its effectiveness.\n\nRapid temperature changes cause surface moisture. For example, when a cold drink is outside in hot weather, condensation forms. The same occurs with polymers. Moving plastic from a cold, damp garage to a warm production area led to surface moisture, causing bubbles and inconsistencies in our 3D-printing filament.", - "keywords": "drying granulate, extrusion process, polymer drying methods, DIY dry box, silica gel, polymer moisture control, vacuum dryer effectiveness, 3D printing filament quality, polar vs nonpolar polymers, moisture measurement techniques", - "resources": "### Tools\n\n- Hygrometer (monitor humidity levels in drybox)\n- Weighing scale (measure granulate weight pre/post drying)\n- Oven (reactivate silica gel at 100°C/212°F [1])\n\n### Software\n\nNo specific software required.\n\n### Hardware\n\n- **Dry box** ([construction guide](https://youtu.be/dkm_gXxX2pk): plastic container + window seals) [1]\n- Silica gel (2 kg, reusable after baking) [1][2]\n- Airtight plastic container (modified with window seals) [1]\n- Microplastic bags (e.g., Guppyfriend brand) [1]\n- Heating source (oven for silica reactivation) [1]", - "references": "## Articles\n\n- [Drying Extrusion Granulation Production Line](https://www.yjing-extrusion.com/where-is-there-a-drying-extrusion-granulation-production-line.html)\n- [How to DIY Filament Dryer](https://kingroon.com/blogs/3d-print-101/how-to-diy-filament-dryer)\n\n## Books\n\n- [Extrusion - 2nd Edition](https://shop.elsevier.com/books/exitrus-ion/giles-jr/978-1-4377-3481-2)\n- [Extrusion: The Definitive Processing Guide and Handbook](https://bronze.ir/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/Extrusion-The-Definitive-Processing-Guide-and-Handbook.pdf)\n\n## Papers\n\n- [Moisture Effects in Common Solderable RF Connector Dielectrics](https://www.circuitinsight.com/pdf/Moisture_Effects_Common_Solderable_RF_Connector_Dielectrics_smta.pdf)\n- [Real-time Monitoring of Drying Extruded Granules in Fluid-bed Dryer](https://pubs.rsc.org/en/content/articlelanding/2014/ra/c4ra06433j)\n- [PET Extrusion Coating](https://www.tappi.org/content/events/07europlace/papers/07europl41.pdf)\n\n## YouTube\n\n- [Ultimate Dry Box for 3D Printer Filament](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=teQsyqK07QE)\n- [DIY 3D Printing Filament Dry Box](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=txF2oQPIjb4)\n- [Simple 3D Printer Filament Dry Box](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z3znzGC4HaE)\n\n## Opensource Designs\n\n- [Instructables Filament Dry Box](https://www.instructables.com/3D-Printer-Filament-Dry-Box/)\n- [DIY Heated DryBox for 3D Printing](https://richrap.blogspot.com/2018/02/diy-heated-drybox-for-3d-printing.html)\n- [Open Source Filament Dry Box Design](https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/Open_Source_Filament_Dry_Box)", - "brief": "Dry granulate materials before extrusion to ensure high-quality 3D printing filament, preventing defects from moisture in polar polymers. Discover effective DIY methods." + "content": "When you want to make products using more advanced Materials (e.g. industrial waste), drying your granulate is a necessary step. \nWe will show you how to dry your granulate before extrusion cheaply and effectively, which is especially important if you want to make high quality products like 3d printing filament.\n\nYou can check out our How-To video here:\nhttps://youtu.be/dkm_gXxX2pk\n\n\nUser Location: Darmstadt, Germany\n\nThere are two main types of polymers, polar and nonpolar. Nonpolar Materials usually don't need to be dried. Exposing nonpolar materials (HDPE/PP etc.) to water is like putting oil in water. Almost every other commercial polymer has some level of polarity and therefore can absorb a certain amount of moisture from the air. Many materials are dried only to optimize surface appearance, too much moisture can lead to cosmetic defects known as splay or silver streaking. Other polymers are damaged if they are processed with too much moisture. These materials chemically react with the moisture (hydrolysis), resulting in a reduction in material strength. Check out the material overview below.\n\nThere are several different DIY methods to dry polymeres; you can use an oven, a dehydrator or a vacuum dryer.\nBut In this How-To we will focus on a self-built drybox with silica gel, because this method delivers the best results while being cheap, easy and energy efficient. One of the problems we encountered with the oven is overheating the plastic, resulting in a big mess. We tried replacing the silica gel with a household dehydrator, but they are not designed to achieve this kind of low humidity levels needed to effectively dry plastic. We also included a temperature table for different polymers.\n\n\nTo make our drybox, we simply use a plastic box that we upgrade with some window seals to make it airtight. Simply, glue them to the rim of the box.\n\nYou might already know silica gel from a shoebox for instance. It comes in small bags in order to keep the inside dry by absorbing any moisture. Silica gel works perfectly with polymers as well so just put around 2 kilograms in the plastic box. There is no particular amount you have to use, but the more you have in the box the less often you need to take them out and dry them.\n\n\nA hygrometer comes in handy to check the humidity inside the drybox. It is convenient to use a transparent box so you can keep track of the drying process at all time.\n\n\nUsing a microplastic bag (we use one from Guppyfriend) to place the material inside of the drybox will save you time and space. It keeps everything in place while the humidity can get out.\n\n\nThe simplest method to measure how much moisture has been absorbed is weighing the granulate beforehand and afterwards. \nUnfortunately, if you are using hot air to dry granulat, volatiles are released from the sample, also reducing the weight. Therefore the weight loss does not exactly equal the loss of moisture so the measurement is imprecise. The professional approach involves making accurate moisture measurements in the drying hopper. This is possible using measurements of dielectric properties in real time. sensors are very expensive though.\n\n\nAfter a while, you will notice that the silica gel reaches its maximum capacity of water that it can absorb. Simply put it in the oven for one or two hours at about 100°C/212°F and it will be as good as new.\n\n\nRapid changes in the Temperature lead to surface moisture.\nIf a cold drink placed outside in the hot summer, you will notice that water starts condensing on the surface.\nThis also is the case for polymers. We had many problems because we took plastic from the cold, damp garage to the warm production area. This resulted in a lot of surface moisture that produced bubbles and inconsistencies in our 3D-Printing Filament.\n" } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/easily-hands-free-connect-moulds-to-the-injector/README.md b/howtos/easily-hands-free-connect-moulds-to-the-injector/README.md index b6d4522ac..98153992f 100644 --- a/howtos/easily-hands-free-connect-moulds-to-the-injector/README.md +++ b/howtos/easily-hands-free-connect-moulds-to-the-injector/README.md @@ -1,57 +1,59 @@ --- title: Easily (hands-free) connect moulds to the injector slug: easily-hands-free-connect-moulds-to-the-injector -description: ### Methods for Attaching Molds to Injectors +description: Screw-on moulds, clamping beds and other methods such as car jacks take time and more effort with your hands to connect moulds to the injector. This method using a motorcycle stand provides enough travel to clamp the mould against the injector and enables the power of your legs to be used keeping your hands free. +This method also enables heavier moulds or other accessories such as clamps to be lifted easily. Perhaps leading to reduced bolting for clamping the mould itself up! -Traditional methods like screw-on molds, clamping beds, and car jacks often require significant manual effort and time to attach molds to injectors. A motorcycle stand offers a more efficient solution, providing sufficient range to clamp the mold against the injector while enabling the use of leg strength, thus keeping hands free. This method facilitates the easy lifting of heavier molds and accessories such as clamps, potentially minimizing the need for extensive bolting during clamping. - -This approach is compatible with conical injection nozzles and chamfered molds. The equipment referenced in this guide is from PlasticPreneur. +This method works for the conical style injection nozzles and chamfered style moulds. The machines we use are from PlasticPreneur in this guide. tags: ["hack","product","untagged","injection"] category: Guides difficulty: Easy time: < 1 hour -keywords: mold attachment methods, motorcycle stand for mold clamping, injector mold setup, conical injection nozzles, chamfered molds, PlasticPreneur equipment, DIY injection mold stand, wooden block elevation, tufftuff jack usage, ergonomic mold setup +keywords: location: Lancaster, United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland (the) --- # Easily (hands-free) connect moulds to the injector ![Easily (hands-free) connect moulds to the injector](cover_picture-17f79ec916d.png) -### Methods for Attaching Molds to Injectors +Screw-on moulds, clamping beds and other methods such as car jacks take time and more effort with your hands to connect moulds to the injector. This method using a motorcycle stand provides enough travel to clamp the mould against the injector and enables the power of your legs to be used keeping your hands free. +This method also enables heavier moulds or other accessories such as clamps to be lifted easily. Perhaps leading to reduced bolting for clamping the mould itself up! -Traditional methods like screw-on molds, clamping beds, and car jacks often require significant manual effort and time to attach molds to injectors. A motorcycle stand offers a more efficient solution, providing sufficient range to clamp the mold against the injector while enabling the use of leg strength, thus keeping hands free. This method facilitates the easy lifting of heavier molds and accessories such as clamps, potentially minimizing the need for extensive bolting during clamping. - -This approach is compatible with conical injection nozzles and chamfered molds. The equipment referenced in this guide is from PlasticPreneur. +This method works for the conical style injection nozzles and chamfered style moulds. The machines we use are from PlasticPreneur in this guide. User Location: Lancaster, United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland (the) ## Steps ### Step 1: One video to explain it all... -Refer to the attached video for a detailed explanation of the process and required components. +See attached a video explaining the process and parts required. ### Step 2: Find yourself a bike stand -We acquired our first stand from Facebook Marketplace. Consider checking bike workshops for old stands. Alternatively, search online for "motorcycle stand" or "dirtbike stand" to find one easily. +We found our first one locally on Facebook Marketplace, you could try workshops that work on bikes - they might have some old ones. +Otherwise, the internet is your friend and you can find them pretty easily by searching "motorcycle stand" or "dirtbike stand". ![WhatsApp Image 2022-03-11 at 16.44.20-17f79e7056b.jpeg](./WhatsApp_Image_2022-03-11_at_16.44.20-17f79e7056b.jpeg) ### Step 3: (if wall-mounted) Make it taller -Four pieces of 3x2 wood (7.6 cm x 5.1 cm) are used at each corner of the stand's flat plate, topped with an additional flat wood piece to elevate the mould bed. Metal or alternative shapes can be considered if preferred. The gap between the pillars serves as storage for height-raising blocks. +We used 4 pieces of 3x2 in each corner of the flat plate of the stand finished with a flat piece of wood on top to create a higher bed for the moulds to sit on. This could easily be made of metal and be differently shaped if required. +We find the gap in the middle of the pillars is useful for storing the 'height-raising blocks'. -If sufficient height is not present, wooden blocks can be added for elevation when using a floor-based injection moulder. +You might find you have enough height already or you can add wooden blocks to raise it up if required when using a floor-based injection moulder. -Alternatively, shorten the pillars and add a tufftuff jack on top, eliminating the need for variable thickness wooden blocks. The tufftuff jack, with a plate, adjusts the general working height, while a bike stand provides additional travel to align with the nozzle. +One modification to this design would be to make the pillars shorter and then add a tufftuff jack on top. This alleviates the need to use different thickness wooden blocks depending on what mould you are using as you could use the tufftuff jack (with a plate on top) to change the general height you want to work out, then use the bike stand to get the extra travel you need to interface with the nozzle. ![WhatsApp Image 2022-03-11 at 16.44.20 (3)-17f79e6f15c.jpeg](./WhatsApp_Image_2022-03-11_at_16.44.20_3-17f79e6f15c.jpeg) ### Step 4: Modify the lever system -Initially, the lever is set at a height that may be challenging for frequent use. While this position offers a good workout, we opted for an easier adjustment. By reversing the arm that attaches to the lever, we achieved better functionality. +We found that out of the box this lever is quite high for your leg to use it multiple times in the day. If you're looking for a good workout, perhaps keep it as is. +For us, we wanted something easier to work with all day and we found simply flipping the arm that slots on works brilliantly. -We added a new hole in the rod emerging from the base and corresponding holes in the arm. This allowed us to secure the arm with an M8 bolt, ensuring stability. An additional bolt was placed behind the arm to prevent excessive backward pivot, ensuring secure use. +We drilled an extra hole in the rod that comes out of the base, and corresponding holes in the arm that slots on. This way, we could put and M8 bolt through them and clamp it on. +The extra bolt behind the arm is to stop it pivoting back too far so you can always step on it confidently without it slipping away! -Feel free to design an alternative system that might offer improved ergonomics or aesthetics. Be inventive! +You could create a different system to this which would perhaps be more ergonomic or aesthetic, get creative! ![WhatsApp Image 2022-03-11 at 16.44.20-17f79e6b489.jpeg](./WhatsApp_Image_2022-03-11_at_16.44.20-17f79e6b489.jpeg) @@ -64,56 +66,7 @@ Feel free to design an alternative system that might offer improved ergonomics o ### Step 5: Watch the video -For a comprehensive explanation, please watch the video. +Please watch the video as everything is explained much better there! ## Resources -### Tools & Equipment - -- ~~[Motorcycle stand](https://www.example.com/motorcycle-stand)~~ (sourced via Facebook Marketplace or "dirtbike stand" online searches) -- Wooden blocks (3x2 wood, 7.6 cm x 5.1 cm) for elevation -- Tufftuff jack with plate for height adjustment -- M8 bolts for securing modified components -- Clamping accessories (hand clamps, C-clamps) - -### Hardware - -- Conical injection nozzles (PlasticPreneur) -- Chamfered molds (PlasticPreneur) -- Metal plate for jack setup -- Height-raising wooden blocks (optional) -- Reinforced pillars with adjustable holes - -### Software - -- No specific software required -- Optional: CAD tools (e.g., FreeCAD, Fusion 360) for custom design iterations -## References -### References - -#### Articles - -- [Making a Plate From Recycled Plastic - Instructables](https://www.instructables.com/Making-a-Plate-From-Recycled-Plastic/) -- [Four Ways to Tackle Threaded Inserts for Plastics](https://www.ptonline.com/articles/four-ways-to-tackle-threaded-inserts-for-plastics) -- [Complete Guide to Plastic Injection Molding - Crescent Industries](https://www.crescentind.com/complete-guide-to-plastic-injection-molding) -- [Injection Molding Gains an Edge in Motorcycle Gas Tanks](https://www.ptonline.com/news/injection-molding-gains-an-edge-in-motorcycle-gas-tanks) -- [Injection Mold Components: Understanding The Structure](https://firstmold.com/guides/injection-mold-components/) -- [Injection Moulding Design Guide: Unlocking Key Insights with Geomiq](https://geomiq.com/injection-moulding-design-guide/) - -#### YouTube - -- [PLASTIC INJECTION MOLD SETUP - YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V9msuhMjfKY) -- [BUILD THIS INJECTION MOLD: THE DRAWINGS - YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=23Q-chqUHi8) - -#### Manuals - -- [Plastic Injection Machine - Wiki HappyLab](https://wiki.happylab.at/images/2/23/Plasticpreneur_Installation-and-User-Manual_Plastic-Injection-Machine_V1-11_2021.pdf) - -#### Open-source Designs - -- [FOSMC - Fictiv](https://www.fictiv.com/fosmc) -- [rusEFI](https://rusefi.com) -- [FOSMC – Build Your Own Open Source Motorcycle](https://blog.techdesign.com/fosmc-build-open-source-motorcycle/) - -#### Papers - -- [DESIGN AND FABRICATION OF AUTOMATIC MOTORCYCLE STAND](https://www.irjet.net/archives/V9/i3/IRJET-V9I3135.pdf) \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/easily-hands-free-connect-moulds-to-the-injector/config.json b/howtos/easily-hands-free-connect-moulds-to-the-injector/config.json index 2663abd9d..30488f52f 100644 --- a/howtos/easily-hands-free-connect-moulds-to-the-injector/config.json +++ b/howtos/easily-hands-free-connect-moulds-to-the-injector/config.json @@ -22,7 +22,7 @@ }, "title": "Easily (hands-free) connect moulds to the injector", "_created": "2022-03-11T17:04:37.450Z", - "description": "### Methods for Attaching Molds to Injectors\n\nTraditional methods like screw-on molds, clamping beds, and car jacks often require significant manual effort and time to attach molds to injectors. A motorcycle stand offers a more efficient solution, providing sufficient range to clamp the mold against the injector while enabling the use of leg strength, thus keeping hands free. This method facilitates the easy lifting of heavier molds and accessories such as clamps, potentially minimizing the need for extensive bolting during clamping.\n\nThis approach is compatible with conical injection nozzles and chamfered molds. The equipment referenced in this guide is from PlasticPreneur.", + "description": "Screw-on moulds, clamping beds and other methods such as car jacks take time and more effort with your hands to connect moulds to the injector. This method using a motorcycle stand provides enough travel to clamp the mould against the injector and enables the power of your legs to be used keeping your hands free. \nThis method also enables heavier moulds or other accessories such as clamps to be lifted easily. Perhaps leading to reduced bolting for clamping the mould itself up!\n\nThis method works for the conical style injection nozzles and chamfered style moulds. The machines we use are from PlasticPreneur in this guide. ", "moderation": "accepted", "creatorCountry": "gb", "total_views": 311, @@ -40,13 +40,13 @@ { "_animationKey": "unique1", "videoUrl": "https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AYwYEBvijnc", - "text": "Refer to the attached video for a detailed explanation of the process and required components.", + "text": "See attached a video explaining the process and parts required. ", "title": "One video to explain it all...", "images": [] }, { "title": "Find yourself a bike stand", - "text": "We acquired our first stand from Facebook Marketplace. Consider checking bike workshops for old stands. Alternatively, search online for \"motorcycle stand\" or \"dirtbike stand\" to find one easily.", + "text": "We found our first one locally on Facebook Marketplace, you could try workshops that work on bikes - they might have some old ones. \nOtherwise, the internet is your friend and you can find them pretty easily by searching \"motorcycle stand\" or \"dirtbike stand\". ", "images": [ { "size": 89836, @@ -80,11 +80,11 @@ ], "title": "(if wall-mounted) Make it taller", "_animationKey": "unique3", - "text": "Four pieces of 3x2 wood (7.6 cm x 5.1 cm) are used at each corner of the stand's flat plate, topped with an additional flat wood piece to elevate the mould bed. Metal or alternative shapes can be considered if preferred. The gap between the pillars serves as storage for height-raising blocks. \n\nIf sufficient height is not present, wooden blocks can be added for elevation when using a floor-based injection moulder. \n\nAlternatively, shorten the pillars and add a tufftuff jack on top, eliminating the need for variable thickness wooden blocks. The tufftuff jack, with a plate, adjusts the general working height, while a bike stand provides additional travel to align with the nozzle." + "text": "We used 4 pieces of 3x2 in each corner of the flat plate of the stand finished with a flat piece of wood on top to create a higher bed for the moulds to sit on. This could easily be made of metal and be differently shaped if required. \nWe find the gap in the middle of the pillars is useful for storing the 'height-raising blocks'. \n\nYou might find you have enough height already or you can add wooden blocks to raise it up if required when using a floor-based injection moulder.\n\nOne modification to this design would be to make the pillars shorter and then add a tufftuff jack on top. This alleviates the need to use different thickness wooden blocks depending on what mould you are using as you could use the tufftuff jack (with a plate on top) to change the general height you want to work out, then use the bike stand to get the extra travel you need to interface with the nozzle. " }, { "title": "Modify the lever system", - "text": "Initially, the lever is set at a height that may be challenging for frequent use. While this position offers a good workout, we opted for an easier adjustment. By reversing the arm that attaches to the lever, we achieved better functionality. \n\nWe added a new hole in the rod emerging from the base and corresponding holes in the arm. This allowed us to secure the arm with an M8 bolt, ensuring stability. An additional bolt was placed behind the arm to prevent excessive backward pivot, ensuring secure use.\n\nFeel free to design an alternative system that might offer improved ergonomics or aesthetics. Be inventive!", + "text": "We found that out of the box this lever is quite high for your leg to use it multiple times in the day. If you're looking for a good workout, perhaps keep it as is. \nFor us, we wanted something easier to work with all day and we found simply flipping the arm that slots on works brilliantly. \n\nWe drilled an extra hole in the rod that comes out of the base, and corresponding holes in the arm that slots on. This way, we could put and M8 bolt through them and clamp it on. \nThe extra bolt behind the arm is to stop it pivoting back too far so you can always step on it confidently without it slipping away!\n\nYou could create a different system to this which would perhaps be more ergonomic or aesthetic, get creative! ", "_animationKey": "uniqueit6san", "images": [ { @@ -128,7 +128,7 @@ { "title": "Watch the video", "images": [], - "text": "For a comprehensive explanation, please watch the video.", + "text": "Please watch the video as everything is explained much better there!", "_animationKey": "unique0jav2i", "videoUrl": "https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AYwYEBvijnc" } @@ -348,9 +348,5 @@ "images": [] } }, - "content": "### Methods for Attaching Molds to Injectors\n\nTraditional methods like screw-on molds, clamping beds, and car jacks often require significant manual effort and time to attach molds to injectors. A motorcycle stand offers a more efficient solution, providing sufficient range to clamp the mold against the injector while enabling the use of leg strength, thus keeping hands free. This method facilitates the easy lifting of heavier molds and accessories such as clamps, potentially minimizing the need for extensive bolting during clamping.\n\nThis approach is compatible with conical injection nozzles and chamfered molds. The equipment referenced in this guide is from PlasticPreneur.\n\n\nUser Location: Lancaster, United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland (the)\n\nRefer to the attached video for a detailed explanation of the process and required components.\n\nWe acquired our first stand from Facebook Marketplace. Consider checking bike workshops for old stands. Alternatively, search online for \"motorcycle stand\" or \"dirtbike stand\" to find one easily.\n\nFour pieces of 3x2 wood (7.6 cm x 5.1 cm) are used at each corner of the stand's flat plate, topped with an additional flat wood piece to elevate the mould bed. Metal or alternative shapes can be considered if preferred. The gap between the pillars serves as storage for height-raising blocks. \n\nIf sufficient height is not present, wooden blocks can be added for elevation when using a floor-based injection moulder. \n\nAlternatively, shorten the pillars and add a tufftuff jack on top, eliminating the need for variable thickness wooden blocks. The tufftuff jack, with a plate, adjusts the general working height, while a bike stand provides additional travel to align with the nozzle.\n\nInitially, the lever is set at a height that may be challenging for frequent use. While this position offers a good workout, we opted for an easier adjustment. By reversing the arm that attaches to the lever, we achieved better functionality. \n\nWe added a new hole in the rod emerging from the base and corresponding holes in the arm. This allowed us to secure the arm with an M8 bolt, ensuring stability. An additional bolt was placed behind the arm to prevent excessive backward pivot, ensuring secure use.\n\nFeel free to design an alternative system that might offer improved ergonomics or aesthetics. Be inventive!\n\nFor a comprehensive explanation, please watch the video.", - "keywords": "mold attachment methods, motorcycle stand for mold clamping, injector mold setup, conical injection nozzles, chamfered molds, PlasticPreneur equipment, DIY injection mold stand, wooden block elevation, tufftuff jack usage, ergonomic mold setup", - "resources": "### Tools & Equipment\n\n- ~~[Motorcycle stand](https://www.example.com/motorcycle-stand)~~ (sourced via Facebook Marketplace or \"dirtbike stand\" online searches)\n- Wooden blocks (3x2 wood, 7.6 cm x 5.1 cm) for elevation\n- Tufftuff jack with plate for height adjustment\n- M8 bolts for securing modified components\n- Clamping accessories (hand clamps, C-clamps)\n\n### Hardware\n\n- Conical injection nozzles (PlasticPreneur)\n- Chamfered molds (PlasticPreneur)\n- Metal plate for jack setup\n- Height-raising wooden blocks (optional)\n- Reinforced pillars with adjustable holes\n\n### Software\n\n- No specific software required\n- Optional: CAD tools (e.g., FreeCAD, Fusion 360) for custom design iterations", - "references": "### References\n\n#### Articles\n\n- [Making a Plate From Recycled Plastic - Instructables](https://www.instructables.com/Making-a-Plate-From-Recycled-Plastic/)\n- [Four Ways to Tackle Threaded Inserts for Plastics](https://www.ptonline.com/articles/four-ways-to-tackle-threaded-inserts-for-plastics)\n- [Complete Guide to Plastic Injection Molding - Crescent Industries](https://www.crescentind.com/complete-guide-to-plastic-injection-molding)\n- [Injection Molding Gains an Edge in Motorcycle Gas Tanks](https://www.ptonline.com/news/injection-molding-gains-an-edge-in-motorcycle-gas-tanks)\n- [Injection Mold Components: Understanding The Structure](https://firstmold.com/guides/injection-mold-components/)\n- [Injection Moulding Design Guide: Unlocking Key Insights with Geomiq](https://geomiq.com/injection-moulding-design-guide/)\n\n#### YouTube\n\n- [PLASTIC INJECTION MOLD SETUP - YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V9msuhMjfKY)\n- [BUILD THIS INJECTION MOLD: THE DRAWINGS - YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=23Q-chqUHi8)\n\n#### Manuals\n\n- [Plastic Injection Machine - Wiki HappyLab](https://wiki.happylab.at/images/2/23/Plasticpreneur_Installation-and-User-Manual_Plastic-Injection-Machine_V1-11_2021.pdf)\n\n#### Open-source Designs\n\n- [FOSMC - Fictiv](https://www.fictiv.com/fosmc)\n- [rusEFI](https://rusefi.com)\n- [FOSMC – Build Your Own Open Source Motorcycle](https://blog.techdesign.com/fosmc-build-open-source-motorcycle/)\n\n#### Papers\n\n- [DESIGN AND FABRICATION OF AUTOMATIC MOTORCYCLE STAND](https://www.irjet.net/archives/V9/i3/IRJET-V9I3135.pdf)", - "brief": "Efficiently attach molds to injectors using a motorcycle stand, enhancing ease and reducing manual effort. Compatible with various molds and injection systems." + "content": "Screw-on moulds, clamping beds and other methods such as car jacks take time and more effort with your hands to connect moulds to the injector. This method using a motorcycle stand provides enough travel to clamp the mould against the injector and enables the power of your legs to be used keeping your hands free. \nThis method also enables heavier moulds or other accessories such as clamps to be lifted easily. Perhaps leading to reduced bolting for clamping the mould itself up!\n\nThis method works for the conical style injection nozzles and chamfered style moulds. The machines we use are from PlasticPreneur in this guide. \n\n\nUser Location: Lancaster, United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland (the)\n\nSee attached a video explaining the process and parts required. \n\nWe found our first one locally on Facebook Marketplace, you could try workshops that work on bikes - they might have some old ones. \nOtherwise, the internet is your friend and you can find them pretty easily by searching \"motorcycle stand\" or \"dirtbike stand\". \n\nWe used 4 pieces of 3x2 in each corner of the flat plate of the stand finished with a flat piece of wood on top to create a higher bed for the moulds to sit on. This could easily be made of metal and be differently shaped if required. \nWe find the gap in the middle of the pillars is useful for storing the 'height-raising blocks'. \n\nYou might find you have enough height already or you can add wooden blocks to raise it up if required when using a floor-based injection moulder.\n\nOne modification to this design would be to make the pillars shorter and then add a tufftuff jack on top. This alleviates the need to use different thickness wooden blocks depending on what mould you are using as you could use the tufftuff jack (with a plate on top) to change the general height you want to work out, then use the bike stand to get the extra travel you need to interface with the nozzle. \n\nWe found that out of the box this lever is quite high for your leg to use it multiple times in the day. If you're looking for a good workout, perhaps keep it as is. \nFor us, we wanted something easier to work with all day and we found simply flipping the arm that slots on works brilliantly. \n\nWe drilled an extra hole in the rod that comes out of the base, and corresponding holes in the arm that slots on. This way, we could put and M8 bolt through them and clamp it on. \nThe extra bolt behind the arm is to stop it pivoting back too far so you can always step on it confidently without it slipping away!\n\nYou could create a different system to this which would perhaps be more ergonomic or aesthetic, get creative! \n\nPlease watch the video as everything is explained much better there!" } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/el-tornillo-motor-injection-machine/README.md b/howtos/el-tornillo-motor-injection-machine/README.md index 1ef5169f4..d4a3c6a9e 100644 --- a/howtos/el-tornillo-motor-injection-machine/README.md +++ b/howtos/el-tornillo-motor-injection-machine/README.md @@ -1,42 +1,38 @@ --- title: El Tornillo Motor Injection Machine slug: el-tornillo-motor-injection-machine -description: ### Using the Injection Machine - -This injection machine uses a motor to reduce manual effort and increase pressure for creating detailed products. +description: This injection machine runs with a motor to save some labor and output more pressure to make more detailed products. tags: ["HDPE","melting","injection","PS","LDPE","PP"] category: Machines difficulty: Hard time: 3-4 weeks -keywords: injection machine, motor injection machine, plastic injection molding, injection molding Colombia, motorized injection machine, injection mold compatibility, plastic types PP HDPE LDPE PS, building injection machine, injection machine assembly, motor-driven injection molding +keywords: location: Bogota, Colombia --- # El Tornillo Motor Injection Machine ![El Tornillo Motor Injection Machine](IMG_5422-1879a27155c.jpg) -### Using the Injection Machine - -This injection machine uses a motor to reduce manual effort and increase pressure for creating detailed products. +This injection machine runs with a motor to save some labor and output more pressure to make more detailed products. User Location: Bogota, Colombia ## Steps ### Step 1: Machine description -**Machine Design:** +Machine design: Motor Injection Machine -**Machine Size:** -Height: 76.77 inches (195 cm); Width: 19.69 inches (50 cm); Depth: 19.69 inches (50 cm) +Machine size: +Heigth: 195CM; Wide: 50CM; Large: 50CM -**Machine Cost:** -In Colombia, Bill of Material: COP $4,700,000 +Machine cost: +In Colombia, Bill Of Material = COP$4,700,000 -**Features:** -Equipped with a motor for pressure application, improving upon older hand-lever models. +What makes your machine different to others: +This machine has a motor that will apply the pressure (versus a hand powered lever on older versions). It can be considered an upgrade to [filtered] Basic Injection Machine, available on the academy. -**Compatibility:** -Suitable for injection molds. +Compatible with: +This machine is suitable for injection moulds. -**Compatible Plastic Types:** +Type of plastic: PP, HDPE, LDPE, PS @@ -46,13 +42,13 @@ PP, HDPE, LDPE, PS To build this machine, you will need: -- Turning (machining on a lathe) -- Milling (machining on a mill) -- General metalworking (cutting, drilling) -- Welding -- Advanced assembly work (requires specific tools, measurement instruments, and knowledge of tolerances for alignment and assembly) -- General electrical work (wiring safety switches, temperature controllers) -- Motor electrical work (wiring motors, contactors, overload protection) +-- Turning (machining on a lathe) +-- Milling (machining on a mill) +-- General metalworking (cutting, drilling) +-- Welding +-- Advanced assembly work (require specific tools, measurement instruments and tolerances knowledge to align and assemble) +-- General electrical work (wiring safety switch, temperature controllers…) +-- Motor electrical work (wiring motor, contactor, overload protection…) ![Screenshot 2023-04-19 at 10.24.12-1879a1e0b8f.png](./Screenshot_2023-04-19_at_10.24.12-1879a1e0b8f.png) @@ -65,93 +61,48 @@ To build this machine, you will need: ### Step 3: Build the machine! -Watch this video for instructions on building the machine: +Watch this video to find out how to build this machine! -0:00 Introduction -3:09 Motor Injection Machine Overview -3:36 Chapter I: Frame Construction -7:12 Chapter II: Mould Area Assembly -8:25 Chapter III: Piston System Installation -14:39 Chapter IV: Heating Barrel Setup -17:51 Chapter V: Electrical Wiring -18:56 Chapter VI: Motor Connection -20:10 Chapter VII: Final Assembly +0:00 Before you start +3:09 Motor Injection Machine intro +3:36 Chapter I: Build the frame +7:12 Chapter II: Build the mould area +8:25 Chapter III: Build the piston system +14:39 Chapter IV: Build the heating barrel +17:51 Chapter V: Electrical wiring +18:56 Chapter VI: Connect the motor +20:10 Chapter VII: Assembly ### Step 4: Inject! -How to Operate the Machine - -1. Activate the machine and load the barrel with plastic. -2. For the initial injection, allow 25 minutes after activation and loading. -3. Position the mold on the jack surface and press it firmly against the nozzle. -4. Engage the motor to lower the piston, forcing the molten plastic into the mold until the belt slips in the pulley. -5. Deactivate the motor and maintain piston pressure for approximately 5 seconds. -6. Reverse the motor to raise the piston. -7. For continuous use, refill the barrel before detaching the mold from the nozzle. -8. Lower the jack to remove the mold. -9. Open the mold and extract the molded part. -10. Close the mold and repeat the process from step 3. +How to use the machine +1. Turn on the machine and fill the barrel with plastic. +2. For the first injection, wait 25 minutes since the machine was turned on and filled. +3. Place the mould over the jack surface and press it against the nozzle tightly. +4. Turn on the motor to move down the piston, pushing the molten plastic inside the mold until the belt starts slipping in the pulley. +5. Turn off the motor and wait around 5 seconds maintaining the piston pressure. +6. Then turn the motor backwards to move the piston up +7. For continuous injections refill the barrel before removing the mold from the nozzle +8. Remove the mold by lowering the jack +9. Open the mold and take out the injected part +10. Close the mold and repeat the process from step 3 Recommendations - -Molds must feature a conical nozzle connection or require an adapter. The machine generates significant pressure, allowing for the injection of items with thin walls. +For this machine, you will need molds that have a connical nozzle connection or create an adapter to fit with you mold nozzle. This machine can create a lot of pressure so you will be able to inject products with very thin walls. ![WhatsApp Image 2023-04-14 at 9.05.51 AM-1879f335ab6.jpeg](./WhatsApp_Image_2023-04-14_at_9.05.51_AM-1879f335ab6.jpeg) ### Step 5: Buy on the Bazar -This guide outlines the process for constructing a Motor Injection Machine. +So this is how you make a Motor Injection Machine! + +If you cannot replicate the machine or simply want to buy some of the other machines or moulds I create, make sure to visit my Bazar shop 🤑 ! + -For those unable to replicate the machine or interested in purchasing other machines or molds, please visit my shop. ![Screenshot 2023-04-19 at 10.20.30-1879a1a7e0e.png](./Screenshot_2023-04-19_at_10.20.30-1879a1a7e0e.png) ## Resources -### Tools - -- Turning (machining on a lathe) – Chapter I (3:09) -- Milling (machining on a mill) – Chapter II (7:12) -- Welding equipment – Chapter I (3:09) -- Cutting/drilling tools (metal saw, drill press) – Chapter I (3:09) -- Measurement instruments (calipers, micrometers) – Chapter III (8:25) - -### Hardware - -- Motor for pressure application – Chapter VI (18:56) -- Safety switches – Chapter V (17:51) -- Temperature controllers – Chapter V (17:51) -- Contactors and overload protection – Chapter VI (18:56) -- Injection molds (PP, HDPE, LDPE, PS compatible) – Chapter II (7:12) - -### Software - -- None specified in the tutorial - -This summary distills key requirements for constructing the injection machine, referencing timestamps from the instructional video. -## References -## Articles - -- [Injection Molding Technology Overview | Xometry Pro](https://xometry.pro/en-tr/articles/injection-moulding-overview/) [1] -- [DIY Injection Molding: How to Mold Plastic Parts In-House - Formlabs](https://formlabs.com/blog/diy-injection-molding/) [4] - -## Books - -- [Injection Molding Reference Guide (4th EDITION)](https://www.keplers.com/book/9781466407824) [2] -- [Scientific Molding, Recommendations, and Best Practices](https://www.hudsonbooksellers.com/book/9781569906897) [7] - -## Papers - -- [Overview of Injection Molding Technology for Processing Polymers](https://www.espublisher.com/uploads/article_pdf/esmm5f713.pdf) [6] -- ~~~~[Open-source 3-D printable autoinjector: Design, testing, and ... - PLOS](https://journals.plos.org/plosone/article?id=10.1371%2Fjournal.pone.0288696)~~~~ [9] - -## YouTube - -- [Build an Injection Molding Machine From a Cheap Pneumatic Press](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_a7usMe_K38) [3] -- [Injection molding setup and run - YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cuF3gjvoSKU) [8] - -## Opensource Designs - -- [An Open-Source Framework for Xilinx FPGA Reliability Evaluation](https://osda.gitlab.io/19/3.2.pdf) [12] -- [Open-source 3-D printable autoinjector: Design, testing, and ... - PLOS](https://journals.plos.org/plosone/article?id=10.1371%2Fjournal.pone.0288696) [9] \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/el-tornillo-motor-injection-machine/config.json b/howtos/el-tornillo-motor-injection-machine/config.json index 6f73294a5..4274838fb 100644 --- a/howtos/el-tornillo-motor-injection-machine/config.json +++ b/howtos/el-tornillo-motor-injection-machine/config.json @@ -65,7 +65,7 @@ "files": [ null ], - "description": "### Using the Injection Machine\n\nThis injection machine uses a motor to reduce manual effort and increase pressure for creating detailed products.", + "description": "This injection machine runs with a motor to save some labor and output more pressure to make more detailed products.", "mentions": [], "moderatorFeedback": "", "_created": "2023-10-20T20:49:05.886Z", @@ -99,7 +99,7 @@ "alt": "Drawings-230412-1879a1fd178.jpg" } ], - "text": "**Machine Design:** \nMotor Injection Machine\n\n**Machine Size:** \nHeight: 76.77 inches (195 cm); Width: 19.69 inches (50 cm); Depth: 19.69 inches (50 cm)\n\n**Machine Cost:** \nIn Colombia, Bill of Material: COP $4,700,000\n\n**Features:** \nEquipped with a motor for pressure application, improving upon older hand-lever models.\n\n**Compatibility:** \nSuitable for injection molds.\n\n**Compatible Plastic Types:** \nPP, HDPE, LDPE, PS" + "text": "Machine design:\nMotor Injection Machine\n\nMachine size:\nHeigth: 195CM; Wide: 50CM; Large: 50CM\n\nMachine cost:\nIn Colombia, Bill Of Material = COP$4,700,000\n\nWhat makes your machine different to others: \nThis machine has a motor that will apply the pressure (versus a hand powered lever on older versions). It can be considered an upgrade to [filtered] Basic Injection Machine, available on the academy.\n\nCompatible with: \nThis machine is suitable for injection moulds.\n\nType of plastic: \nPP, HDPE, LDPE, PS" }, { "title": "Tools needed", @@ -142,17 +142,17 @@ } ], "_animationKey": "unique3", - "text": "To build this machine, you will need:\n\n- Turning (machining on a lathe)\n- Milling (machining on a mill)\n- General metalworking (cutting, drilling)\n- Welding\n- Advanced assembly work (requires specific tools, measurement instruments, and knowledge of tolerances for alignment and assembly)\n- General electrical work (wiring safety switches, temperature controllers)\n- Motor electrical work (wiring motors, contactors, overload protection)" + "text": "To build this machine, you will need:\n\n-- Turning (machining on a lathe)\n-- Milling (machining on a mill)\n-- General metalworking (cutting, drilling)\n-- Welding\n-- Advanced assembly work (require specific tools, measurement instruments and tolerances knowledge to align and assemble)\n-- General electrical work (wiring safety switch, temperature controllers…)\n-- Motor electrical work (wiring motor, contactor, overload protection…)" }, { "_animationKey": "unique3ttjmm", "videoUrl": "https://youtu.be/OOurvulD-pE", "images": [], "title": "Build the machine!", - "text": "Watch this video for instructions on building the machine:\n\n0:00 Introduction\n3:09 Motor Injection Machine Overview\n3:36 Chapter I: Frame Construction\n7:12 Chapter II: Mould Area Assembly\n8:25 Chapter III: Piston System Installation\n14:39 Chapter IV: Heating Barrel Setup\n17:51 Chapter V: Electrical Wiring\n18:56 Chapter VI: Motor Connection\n20:10 Chapter VII: Final Assembly" + "text": "Watch this video to find out how to build this machine!\n\n0:00 Before you start\n3:09 Motor Injection Machine intro\n3:36 Chapter I: Build the frame\n7:12 Chapter II: Build the mould area\n8:25 Chapter III: Build the piston system\n14:39 Chapter IV: Build the heating barrel\n17:51 Chapter V: Electrical wiring\n18:56 Chapter VI: Connect the motor\n20:10 Chapter VII: Assembly" }, { - "text": "How to Operate the Machine\n\n1. Activate the machine and load the barrel with plastic.\n2. For the initial injection, allow 25 minutes after activation and loading.\n3. Position the mold on the jack surface and press it firmly against the nozzle.\n4. Engage the motor to lower the piston, forcing the molten plastic into the mold until the belt slips in the pulley.\n5. Deactivate the motor and maintain piston pressure for approximately 5 seconds.\n6. Reverse the motor to raise the piston.\n7. For continuous use, refill the barrel before detaching the mold from the nozzle.\n8. Lower the jack to remove the mold.\n9. Open the mold and extract the molded part.\n10. Close the mold and repeat the process from step 3.\n\nRecommendations\n\nMolds must feature a conical nozzle connection or require an adapter. The machine generates significant pressure, allowing for the injection of items with thin walls.", + "text": "How to use the machine\n1. Turn on the machine and fill the barrel with plastic.\n2. For the first injection, wait 25 minutes since the machine was turned on and filled.\n3. Place the mould over the jack surface and press it against the nozzle tightly.\n4. Turn on the motor to move down the piston, pushing the molten plastic inside the mold until the belt starts slipping in the pulley.\n5. Turn off the motor and wait around 5 seconds maintaining the piston pressure.\n6. Then turn the motor backwards to move the piston up\n7. For continuous injections refill the barrel before removing the mold from the nozzle\n8. Remove the mold by lowering the jack \n9. Open the mold and take out the injected part\n10. Close the mold and repeat the process from step 3\n\nRecommendations\nFor this machine, you will need molds that have a connical nozzle connection or create an adapter to fit with you mold nozzle. This machine can create a lot of pressure so you will be able to inject products with very thin walls.", "title": "Inject!", "_animationKey": "uniquerpgzq", "images": [ @@ -186,7 +186,7 @@ } ], "title": "Buy on the Bazar", - "text": "This guide outlines the process for constructing a Motor Injection Machine.\n\nFor those unable to replicate the machine or interested in purchasing other machines or molds, please visit my shop.", + "text": "So this is how you make a Motor Injection Machine!\n\nIf you cannot replicate the machine or simply want to buy some of the other machines or moulds I create, make sure to visit my Bazar shop 🤑 !\n\n", "_animationKey": "unique2gnw9l" } ], @@ -363,9 +363,5 @@ "urls": [] } }, - "content": "### Using the Injection Machine\n\nThis injection machine uses a motor to reduce manual effort and increase pressure for creating detailed products.\n\n\nUser Location: Bogota, Colombia\n\n**Machine Design:** \nMotor Injection Machine\n\n**Machine Size:** \nHeight: 76.77 inches (195 cm); Width: 19.69 inches (50 cm); Depth: 19.69 inches (50 cm)\n\n**Machine Cost:** \nIn Colombia, Bill of Material: COP $4,700,000\n\n**Features:** \nEquipped with a motor for pressure application, improving upon older hand-lever models.\n\n**Compatibility:** \nSuitable for injection molds.\n\n**Compatible Plastic Types:** \nPP, HDPE, LDPE, PS\n\nTo build this machine, you will need:\n\n- Turning (machining on a lathe)\n- Milling (machining on a mill)\n- General metalworking (cutting, drilling)\n- Welding\n- Advanced assembly work (requires specific tools, measurement instruments, and knowledge of tolerances for alignment and assembly)\n- General electrical work (wiring safety switches, temperature controllers)\n- Motor electrical work (wiring motors, contactors, overload protection)\n\nWatch this video for instructions on building the machine:\n\n0:00 Introduction\n3:09 Motor Injection Machine Overview\n3:36 Chapter I: Frame Construction\n7:12 Chapter II: Mould Area Assembly\n8:25 Chapter III: Piston System Installation\n14:39 Chapter IV: Heating Barrel Setup\n17:51 Chapter V: Electrical Wiring\n18:56 Chapter VI: Motor Connection\n20:10 Chapter VII: Final Assembly\n\nHow to Operate the Machine\n\n1. Activate the machine and load the barrel with plastic.\n2. For the initial injection, allow 25 minutes after activation and loading.\n3. Position the mold on the jack surface and press it firmly against the nozzle.\n4. Engage the motor to lower the piston, forcing the molten plastic into the mold until the belt slips in the pulley.\n5. Deactivate the motor and maintain piston pressure for approximately 5 seconds.\n6. Reverse the motor to raise the piston.\n7. For continuous use, refill the barrel before detaching the mold from the nozzle.\n8. Lower the jack to remove the mold.\n9. Open the mold and extract the molded part.\n10. Close the mold and repeat the process from step 3.\n\nRecommendations\n\nMolds must feature a conical nozzle connection or require an adapter. The machine generates significant pressure, allowing for the injection of items with thin walls.\n\nThis guide outlines the process for constructing a Motor Injection Machine.\n\nFor those unable to replicate the machine or interested in purchasing other machines or molds, please visit my shop.", - "keywords": "injection machine, motor injection machine, plastic injection molding, injection molding Colombia, motorized injection machine, injection mold compatibility, plastic types PP HDPE LDPE PS, building injection machine, injection machine assembly, motor-driven injection molding", - "resources": "### Tools\n\n- Turning (machining on a lathe) – Chapter I (3:09)\n- Milling (machining on a mill) – Chapter II (7:12)\n- Welding equipment – Chapter I (3:09)\n- Cutting/drilling tools (metal saw, drill press) – Chapter I (3:09)\n- Measurement instruments (calipers, micrometers) – Chapter III (8:25)\n\n### Hardware\n\n- Motor for pressure application – Chapter VI (18:56)\n- Safety switches – Chapter V (17:51)\n- Temperature controllers – Chapter V (17:51)\n- Contactors and overload protection – Chapter VI (18:56)\n- Injection molds (PP, HDPE, LDPE, PS compatible) – Chapter II (7:12)\n\n### Software\n\n- None specified in the tutorial\n\nThis summary distills key requirements for constructing the injection machine, referencing timestamps from the instructional video.", - "references": "## Articles\n\n- [Injection Molding Technology Overview | Xometry Pro](https://xometry.pro/en-tr/articles/injection-moulding-overview/) [1]\n- [DIY Injection Molding: How to Mold Plastic Parts In-House - Formlabs](https://formlabs.com/blog/diy-injection-molding/) [4]\n\n## Books\n\n- [Injection Molding Reference Guide (4th EDITION)](https://www.keplers.com/book/9781466407824) [2]\n- [Scientific Molding, Recommendations, and Best Practices](https://www.hudsonbooksellers.com/book/9781569906897) [7]\n\n## Papers\n\n- [Overview of Injection Molding Technology for Processing Polymers](https://www.espublisher.com/uploads/article_pdf/esmm5f713.pdf) [6]\n- ~~~~[Open-source 3-D printable autoinjector: Design, testing, and ... - PLOS](https://journals.plos.org/plosone/article?id=10.1371%2Fjournal.pone.0288696)~~~~ [9]\n\n## YouTube\n\n- [Build an Injection Molding Machine From a Cheap Pneumatic Press](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_a7usMe_K38) [3]\n- [Injection molding setup and run - YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cuF3gjvoSKU) [8]\n\n## Opensource Designs\n\n- [An Open-Source Framework for Xilinx FPGA Reliability Evaluation](https://osda.gitlab.io/19/3.2.pdf) [12]\n- [Open-source 3-D printable autoinjector: Design, testing, and ... - PLOS](https://journals.plos.org/plosone/article?id=10.1371%2Fjournal.pone.0288696) [9]", - "brief": "Motor injection machine enhances precision with reduced manual effort and high-pressure output. Ideal for thin-wall items using PP, HDPE, LDPE, and PS plastics." + "content": "This injection machine runs with a motor to save some labor and output more pressure to make more detailed products.\n\n\nUser Location: Bogota, Colombia\n\nMachine design:\nMotor Injection Machine\n\nMachine size:\nHeigth: 195CM; Wide: 50CM; Large: 50CM\n\nMachine cost:\nIn Colombia, Bill Of Material = COP$4,700,000\n\nWhat makes your machine different to others: \nThis machine has a motor that will apply the pressure (versus a hand powered lever on older versions). It can be considered an upgrade to [filtered] Basic Injection Machine, available on the academy.\n\nCompatible with: \nThis machine is suitable for injection moulds.\n\nType of plastic: \nPP, HDPE, LDPE, PS\n\nTo build this machine, you will need:\n\n-- Turning (machining on a lathe)\n-- Milling (machining on a mill)\n-- General metalworking (cutting, drilling)\n-- Welding\n-- Advanced assembly work (require specific tools, measurement instruments and tolerances knowledge to align and assemble)\n-- General electrical work (wiring safety switch, temperature controllers…)\n-- Motor electrical work (wiring motor, contactor, overload protection…)\n\nWatch this video to find out how to build this machine!\n\n0:00 Before you start\n3:09 Motor Injection Machine intro\n3:36 Chapter I: Build the frame\n7:12 Chapter II: Build the mould area\n8:25 Chapter III: Build the piston system\n14:39 Chapter IV: Build the heating barrel\n17:51 Chapter V: Electrical wiring\n18:56 Chapter VI: Connect the motor\n20:10 Chapter VII: Assembly\n\nHow to use the machine\n1. Turn on the machine and fill the barrel with plastic.\n2. For the first injection, wait 25 minutes since the machine was turned on and filled.\n3. Place the mould over the jack surface and press it against the nozzle tightly.\n4. Turn on the motor to move down the piston, pushing the molten plastic inside the mold until the belt starts slipping in the pulley.\n5. Turn off the motor and wait around 5 seconds maintaining the piston pressure.\n6. Then turn the motor backwards to move the piston up\n7. For continuous injections refill the barrel before removing the mold from the nozzle\n8. Remove the mold by lowering the jack \n9. Open the mold and take out the injected part\n10. Close the mold and repeat the process from step 3\n\nRecommendations\nFor this machine, you will need molds that have a connical nozzle connection or create an adapter to fit with you mold nozzle. This machine can create a lot of pressure so you will be able to inject products with very thin walls.\n\nSo this is how you make a Motor Injection Machine!\n\nIf you cannot replicate the machine or simply want to buy some of the other machines or moulds I create, make sure to visit my Bazar shop 🤑 !\n\n" } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/extrude-a-bird-feeder/README.md b/howtos/extrude-a-bird-feeder/README.md index f1d1ca5a8..c97845560 100644 --- a/howtos/extrude-a-bird-feeder/README.md +++ b/howtos/extrude-a-bird-feeder/README.md @@ -1,29 +1,29 @@ --- title: Extrude a Bird Feeder slug: extrude-a-bird-feeder -description: Bird Feeder Made from Recycled Plastic using an Extruder +description: Bird feeder made with recycled plastic and Precious Plastic extruder. -For detailed instructions, visit our blog and view the video: -[Link to Blog](https://menorplastic.com/disenamos-el-mejor-comedero-para-pajaros-con-plastico-reciclado/) +You can visit our blog and watch the video: +https://menorplastic.com/disenamos-el-mejor-comedero-para-pajaros-con-plastico-reciclado/ tags: ["PP","HDPE","extrusion","product"] category: Products difficulty: Easy time: < 1 week -keywords: bird feeder, recycled plastic bird feeder, extruder bird feeder, eco-friendly bird feeder, how to make bird feeder, DIY bird feeder, HDPE bird feeder, sustainable bird feeder, bird feeder tutorial, bird feeder Spain +keywords: location: San Javier, Spain --- # Extrude a Bird Feeder ![Extrude a Bird Feeder](WhatsApp_Image_2020-04-04_at_16.50.08_1.jpeg) -Bird Feeder Made from Recycled Plastic using an Extruder +Bird feeder made with recycled plastic and Precious Plastic extruder. -For detailed instructions, visit our blog and view the video: -[Link to Blog](https://menorplastic.com/disenamos-el-mejor-comedero-para-pajaros-con-plastico-reciclado/) +You can visit our blog and watch the video: +https://menorplastic.com/disenamos-el-mejor-comedero-para-pajaros-con-plastico-reciclado/ User Location: San Javier, Spain ## Steps ### Step 1: Select plastics -Crush the plastic intended for use (preferably HDPE) and fill the extruder. +Crush the plastic that we are going to use (preferably HDPE) and fill extruder. ![WhatsApp Image 2020-04-04 at 16.50.09 (4).jpeg](./WhatsApp_Image_2020-04-04_at_16.50.09_4.jpeg) @@ -33,21 +33,21 @@ Crush the plastic intended for use (preferably HDPE) and fill the extruder. ### Step 2: Pick some cardboard -Use cardboard tubes from toilet paper rolls or similar items. Place some fabric inside. +Use cardboard of toilet paper or similar. Put some cloth inside. ![WhatsApp Image 2020-04-04 at 16.50.09 (2).jpeg](./WhatsApp_Image_2020-04-04_at_16.50.09_2.jpeg) ### Step 3: Rolling plastic -Gradually wrap the plastic around the cardboard, altering the direction for added strength. +We will slowly roll the plastic on the cardboard. Change direction to make it resistant. ![enrollando.png](./enrollando.png) ### Step 4: Demolding -We let it cool and then slowly remove the cardboard. +We let it cool and take out the cardboard slowly. ![enfriando.png](./enfriando.png) @@ -57,7 +57,7 @@ We let it cool and then slowly remove the cardboard. ### Step 5: Feed it -Your bird feeder is now complete and ready for use. +Done! You have a bird feeder ready to use. ![final-individual.png](./final-individual.png) @@ -69,45 +69,4 @@ Your bird feeder is now complete and ready for use. ![20200403_115558A.jpg](./20200403_115558A.jpg) ## Resources -The tutorial outlines a process for creating a bird feeder from recycled HDPE plastic using basic fabrication techniques. Below is a breakdown of the required components: - -### Hardware - -- **Plastic extruder** ([Blog link](https://menorplastic.com/disenamos-el-mejor-comedero-para-pajaros-con-plastico-reciclado/)) -- **HDPE plastic crusher/shredder** (for recycling plastic) -- **Cardboard tubes** (e.g., toilet paper rolls) -- **Fabric strips** (to line the tubes during molding) -- **Cooling area** (ambient air for solidification) - -### Tools - -- No specialized tools mentioned beyond the extruder and crusher. - -### Software - -- Not required for this project. - -The process emphasizes repurposing household items like cardboard tubes and fabric, paired with recycling equipment. -## References -### Articles - -- ~~[Recycled Plastic Hopper Feeder](https://www.wildaboutbirds.com/recycled-plastic-hopper-feeder)~~ -- [Sustainable Bird Feeders Offer Solutions](https://birdschoice.com/blogs/news/sustainable-bird-feeders-offer-solutions-to-attracting-birds-and-minimizing-plastic-waste) - -### Tutorials/Guides - -- [DIY Plastic Bottle Bird Feeder](https://www.instructables.com/DIY-Plastic-Bottle-Bird-Feeder/) -- [Acrylic Bird Feeder Guide](https://plasticsheetsshop.co.uk/diy/how-to-build-a-bird-feeder/) -- [Low Cost Plastic Extruder for Filament Production](https://www.instructables.com/Low-Cost-Plastic-Extruder-for-Fillament-Production/) - -### Papers - -- [RepRapable Recyclebot: Open source 3-D printable extruder](https://digitalcommons.mtu.edu/materials_fp/177/) - -### YouTube - -- [How to make an upcycled bird feeder from a plastic bottle | WWT](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ben9e5p5y8s) - -### Open-source Designs - -- [RepRapable Recyclebot: Open source 3-D printable extruder](https://reprap.org/wiki/RepRapable_Recyclebot:_Open_source_3-D_printable_extruder_for_converting_plastic_to_3-D_printing_filament) \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/extrude-a-bird-feeder/config.json b/howtos/extrude-a-bird-feeder/config.json index a4435b5b7..c8d2e26ab 100644 --- a/howtos/extrude-a-bird-feeder/config.json +++ b/howtos/extrude-a-bird-feeder/config.json @@ -42,14 +42,14 @@ ], "_deleted": false, "difficulty_level": "Easy", - "description": "Bird Feeder Made from Recycled Plastic using an Extruder\n\nFor detailed instructions, visit our blog and view the video: \n[Link to Blog](https://menorplastic.com/disenamos-el-mejor-comedero-para-pajaros-con-plastico-reciclado/)", + "description": "Bird feeder made with recycled plastic and Precious Plastic extruder.\n\nYou can visit our blog and watch the video:\nhttps://menorplastic.com/disenamos-el-mejor-comedero-para-pajaros-con-plastico-reciclado/", "comments": [], "_created": "2020-04-04T15:32:38.132Z", "_modified": "2023-11-06T06:45:17.650Z", "steps": [ { "title": " Select plastics", - "text": "Crush the plastic intended for use (preferably HDPE) and fill the extruder.", + "text": "Crush the plastic that we are going to use (preferably HDPE) and fill extruder.", "images": [ { "name": "WhatsApp Image 2020-04-04 at 16.50.09 (4).jpeg", @@ -79,7 +79,7 @@ "_animationKey": "unique1" }, { - "text": "Use cardboard tubes from toilet paper rolls or similar items. Place some fabric inside.", + "text": "Use cardboard of toilet paper or similar. Put some cloth inside.", "_animationKey": "unique2", "title": "Pick some cardboard", "images": [ @@ -112,13 +112,13 @@ "alt": "enrollando.png" } ], - "text": "Gradually wrap the plastic around the cardboard, altering the direction for added strength.", + "text": "We will slowly roll the plastic on the cardboard. Change direction to make it resistant.", "title": "Rolling plastic", "_animationKey": "unique3" }, { "title": "Demolding", - "text": "We let it cool and then slowly remove the cardboard.", + "text": "We let it cool and take out the cardboard slowly.", "_animationKey": "unique6ho0xw", "images": [ { @@ -188,7 +188,7 @@ ], "_animationKey": "unique4u8ta", "title": "Feed it", - "text": "Your bird feeder is now complete and ready for use." + "text": "Done! You have a bird feeder ready to use." } ], "user": { @@ -341,9 +341,5 @@ "urls": [] } }, - "content": "Bird Feeder Made from Recycled Plastic using an Extruder\n\nFor detailed instructions, visit our blog and view the video: \n[Link to Blog](https://menorplastic.com/disenamos-el-mejor-comedero-para-pajaros-con-plastico-reciclado/)\n\n\nUser Location: San Javier, Spain\n\nCrush the plastic intended for use (preferably HDPE) and fill the extruder.\n\nUse cardboard tubes from toilet paper rolls or similar items. Place some fabric inside.\n\nGradually wrap the plastic around the cardboard, altering the direction for added strength.\n\nWe let it cool and then slowly remove the cardboard.\n\nYour bird feeder is now complete and ready for use.", - "keywords": "bird feeder, recycled plastic bird feeder, extruder bird feeder, eco-friendly bird feeder, how to make bird feeder, DIY bird feeder, HDPE bird feeder, sustainable bird feeder, bird feeder tutorial, bird feeder Spain", - "resources": "The tutorial outlines a process for creating a bird feeder from recycled HDPE plastic using basic fabrication techniques. Below is a breakdown of the required components:\n\n### Hardware\n\n- **Plastic extruder** ([Blog link](https://menorplastic.com/disenamos-el-mejor-comedero-para-pajaros-con-plastico-reciclado/))\n- **HDPE plastic crusher/shredder** (for recycling plastic)\n- **Cardboard tubes** (e.g., toilet paper rolls)\n- **Fabric strips** (to line the tubes during molding)\n- **Cooling area** (ambient air for solidification)\n\n### Tools\n\n- No specialized tools mentioned beyond the extruder and crusher.\n\n### Software\n\n- Not required for this project.\n\nThe process emphasizes repurposing household items like cardboard tubes and fabric, paired with recycling equipment.", - "references": "### Articles\n\n- ~~[Recycled Plastic Hopper Feeder](https://www.wildaboutbirds.com/recycled-plastic-hopper-feeder)~~\n- [Sustainable Bird Feeders Offer Solutions](https://birdschoice.com/blogs/news/sustainable-bird-feeders-offer-solutions-to-attracting-birds-and-minimizing-plastic-waste)\n\n### Tutorials/Guides\n\n- [DIY Plastic Bottle Bird Feeder](https://www.instructables.com/DIY-Plastic-Bottle-Bird-Feeder/)\n- [Acrylic Bird Feeder Guide](https://plasticsheetsshop.co.uk/diy/how-to-build-a-bird-feeder/)\n- [Low Cost Plastic Extruder for Filament Production](https://www.instructables.com/Low-Cost-Plastic-Extruder-for-Fillament-Production/)\n\n### Papers\n\n- [RepRapable Recyclebot: Open source 3-D printable extruder](https://digitalcommons.mtu.edu/materials_fp/177/)\n\n### YouTube\n\n- [How to make an upcycled bird feeder from a plastic bottle | WWT](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ben9e5p5y8s)\n\n### Open-source Designs\n\n- [RepRapable Recyclebot: Open source 3-D printable extruder](https://reprap.org/wiki/RepRapable_Recyclebot:_Open_source_3-D_printable_extruder_for_converting_plastic_to_3-D_printing_filament)", - "brief": "Create an eco-friendly bird feeder from recycled plastic using an extruder. Simple steps and materials make this project easy and sustainable." + "content": "Bird feeder made with recycled plastic and Precious Plastic extruder.\n\nYou can visit our blog and watch the video:\nhttps://menorplastic.com/disenamos-el-mejor-comedero-para-pajaros-con-plastico-reciclado/\n\n\nUser Location: San Javier, Spain\n\nCrush the plastic that we are going to use (preferably HDPE) and fill extruder.\n\nUse cardboard of toilet paper or similar. Put some cloth inside.\n\nWe will slowly roll the plastic on the cardboard. Change direction to make it resistant.\n\nWe let it cool and take out the cardboard slowly.\n\nDone! You have a bird feeder ready to use." } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/faceshield-with-extrusion-die-and-a4-clear-sheet/README.md b/howtos/faceshield-with-extrusion-die-and-a4-clear-sheet/README.md index cae426d7f..58ac17cf2 100644 --- a/howtos/faceshield-with-extrusion-die-and-a4-clear-sheet/README.md +++ b/howtos/faceshield-with-extrusion-die-and-a4-clear-sheet/README.md @@ -1,27 +1,30 @@ --- title: Faceshield with extrusion die and A4 clear sheet slug: faceshield-with-extrusion-die-and-a4-clear-sheet -description: This guide demonstrates how to make a face shield using fundamental materials and an extrusion machine. Face shields are in short supply in many regions impacted by COVID-19, and as many as 22 may be required per patient. A fast, DIY approach to production is essential. Note that face shields are meant to supplement goggles and masks, aiming to reduce viral exposure. +description: We make a face shield from basic elements and the extrusion machine. Face shields are critically lacking in many countries affected by COVID-19. You need up to 22 per patient. We need a DIY way of making these and making these fast.. +Remember face shields are only a complement to googles and masks and are meant to reduce the viral charge. tags: ["HDPE","extrusion"] category: Products difficulty: Medium time: < 1 week -keywords: face shield DIY, COVID-19 protection, extrusion machine face shield, homemade face shield, face shield assembly, HDPE face shield, nozzle design for face shield, plastic sheet shield, elastic band attachment, emergency face protection +keywords: location: Wick, United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland (the) --- # Faceshield with extrusion die and A4 clear sheet ![Faceshield with extrusion die and A4 clear sheet](IMG_20200404_095358-COLLAGE.jpg) -This guide demonstrates how to make a face shield using fundamental materials and an extrusion machine. Face shields are in short supply in many regions impacted by COVID-19, and as many as 22 may be required per patient. A fast, DIY approach to production is essential. Note that face shields are meant to supplement goggles and masks, aiming to reduce viral exposure. +We make a face shield from basic elements and the extrusion machine. Face shields are critically lacking in many countries affected by COVID-19. You need up to 22 per patient. We need a DIY way of making these and making these fast.. +Remember face shields are only a complement to googles and masks and are meant to reduce the viral charge. User Location: Wick, United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland (the) ## Steps ### Step 1: Make a nozzle to attach to the extruder. -### Instructions for Nozzle Design - -The nozzle should feature a large entry point with a tapering end. Incorporate bars to partially cool the material and guide it towards the exit. To activate, apply heat using a hot air gun. The external plates should be spaced 0.04 inches (1 mm) apart. Operating without a nozzle increases difficulty in controlling the thickness and elasticity of the resulting band. - -[Watch the tutorial here.](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BTiQqPFE9vs) +The nozzle needs to have a relatively large entry and a tapering end. +The best is to have some bars to cool down a bit the plastic and funnel it towards the exit. +To activate the nozzle we heat it up with hot air gun +The outside plates are only 1mm apart +You can also do it without nozzle but it is even more complicated to control the thickness and elasticity of the future band +youtube.com: youtube.com/watch?v=BTiQqPFE9vs ![IMG_20200328_142311.jpg](./IMG_20200328_142311.jpg) @@ -31,7 +34,13 @@ The nozzle should feature a large entry point with a tapering end. Incorporate b ### Step 2: Extrude the stripe -This part requires care to ensure the plastic is extracted evenly, maintaining consistent thickness and flow. Operate the motor at the slowest speed. Variations in thickness and cooling rates may cause twisting. Heat it with a hot air gun and use a metal mangle to straighten it, though the strip may remain slightly concave, which does not affect the design. Based on the Badger shield specifications, the optimal head contact is 13 inches (33 cm). Cut accordingly. We used HDPE, commonly sourced and easy to melt, from locally recovered ocean plastic. +This is a delicate part and needs improvement as you need to pull the plastic out so that the thickness and flow is even. Make your motor rotate at the slowest speed possible. +Because of changes in the thickness and rate of cooling your stripe might twist +We heat it up back with the hot air gun and pass it inside our metal mangle. This will straighten the band. Don#t expect miracles, you will keep the concave shape. Although in the end it makes no difference with our design +Based on the work on the Badger shield +delve.com: delve.com/assets/documents/OPEN-SOURCE-FACE-SHIELD-DRAWING-v1.PDF +We can see that ideally the contact with the head should be 13"/ 33 cm. Cut to length +Here we have used HDPE from ocean plastic we regularly recover on the local beaches. We recommend HDPE as it is easier to source and also low temperature to melt. ![IMG_20200328_152146.jpg](./IMG_20200328_152146.jpg) @@ -41,7 +50,10 @@ This part requires care to ensure the plastic is extracted evenly, maintaining c ### Step 3: Punch holes for the attachment -The ideal attachment is a clothing elastic band. In its absence, use rope as shown in an example from a tutorial. To facilitate attachment without knots, punch several holes. A 10 mm (0.4 in) square wood chisel is suitable. Create three pairs of holes and one set of three holes on one end, or reduce to two pairs if using rope. +The best for the attachment is an elastic band for clothes but we didn't have any so made with a rope like in the example of menorplastic.com: menorplastic.com/tutorial-para-fabricarte-tu-protector-facial-casero +however to avoid making knots and for an easy attachment you can simply punch a set of holes +A square wood chisel size 10 is perfect for that. +You have to make 3 sets of 2 holes and one set of 3 holes at one end (could be two if you use rope) ![IMG_20200328_155038.jpg](./IMG_20200328_155038.jpg) @@ -54,7 +66,10 @@ The ideal attachment is a clothing elastic band. In its absence, use rope as sho ### Step 4: lace the plastic band -Arrange components according to the drawing for optimal comfort. The two-hole design enables quick adjustment for any head size. The third hole provides a secure latch for the elastic band. For easier adjustment, use a knot as shown in the third illustration. +Follow the right order for comfort, according to drawing +The 2-hole design allows to tighten at any size of head quickly. +The third hole design is to pass the elastic band in a very secure latch. +You can also make a similar knot as in the third figure for easier adjustment. ![IMG_20200328_161519.jpg](./IMG_20200328_161519.jpg) @@ -67,19 +82,15 @@ Arrange components according to the drawing for optimal comfort. The two-hole de ### Step 5: Staple the screen -### Instructions for Assembling a Screen Attachment +Try to center the screen with your attachment then staple from one end. +3 staples suffice one on each end and one in the middle, going progressively from one side to the other. +Keep the staples open until the screen is really tight on the plastic stripe you extruded. You can repunch the screen to tighten if needed. +The plastic sheets can be sourced from overhead or like here from a lamination machine where we stuck two ends together. -1. Center the screen with your attachment and begin stapling at one end. Three staples are sufficient: one at each end and one in the middle, applied progressively from one side to the other. - -2. Ensure staples remain open until the screen is pulled tightly against the extruded plastic strip. If necessary, repunch the screen to achieve the desired tension. +The shield is only to be used in extreme cases where no other alternatives are possible. However it takes on most of the designs of approved PPE with a minimum of resource -3. Plastic sheets can be obtained from overhead projectors or lamination machines, where two ends can be adhered together. - -### Guidelines for Shield Use - -The shield should only be employed in urgent situations where no alternatives exist. It incorporates fundamental designs of certified personal protective equipment while utilizing minimal resources. - -For further information and updates, please visit the following link: [plasticatbay.org: plasticatbay.org/2020/03/29/plasticbay-faceshield-design](https://www.plasticatbay.org/2020/03/29/plasticbay-faceshield-design) +You can get more details and updates if you follow this link. We cannot update both websites at the same times at the moment. Sorry for the inconvenience +plasticatbay.org: plasticatbay.org/2020/03/29/plasticbay-faceshield-design ![2020-03-28-164551.jpg](./2020-03-28-164551.jpg) @@ -91,47 +102,4 @@ For further information and updates, please visit the following link: [plasticat ![2020-03-28-164612.jpg](./2020-03-28-164612.jpg) ## Resources -### Hardware - -- Extrusion machine with adjustable speed motor [video guide](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BTiQqPFE9vs) -- Custom nozzle (1 mm spaced plates, cooling bars for material guidance) -- Metal mangle for plastic straightening - -### Tools - -- Hot air gun (plastic heating/activation) -- 10 mm square wood chisel (hole punching) -- Stapler (screen attachment) - -### Materials - -- HDPE plastic (recovered ocean plastic, meltable) -- Overhead projector/lamination machine plastic sheets ~~[design specs](https://www.plasticatbay.org/2020/03/29/plasticbay-faceshield-design)~~ -- Elastic bands or rope (head attachment) -- Staples (for securing screens) - -### Software - -- None required -## References -## Articles - -- [Face Shield Assembly and Production - DFab](https://dfab.uw.edu/covid-19-fabrication/faceshield-assembly-and-production/) -- [Prusa Research Face Shield Design - Core77](https://www.core77.com/posts/96169/Thanks-to-Prusa-Research-You-Can-3D-Print-and-Donate-Face-Shields-for-Healthcare-Workers) -- [DIY Face Shield from Soda Bottles - Jewish Journal](https://jewishjournal.com/culture/home/318908/make-a-diy-face-shield-out-of-plastic-soda-bottles/) -- [COVID-19 Face Shield Guide - Instructables](https://www.instructables.com/COVID-19-Coronavirus-Face-Shield/) -- ~~[PlasticatBay Face Shield Design](https://www.plasticatbay.org/2020/03/29/plasticbay-faceshield-design)~~ - -## YouTube - -- [Face Shield Design Tutorial - YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BYPWB5-auQE) -- [Nozzle Activation Tutorial - YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BTiQqPFE9vs) - -## Opensource Designs - -- [Adafruit Open Source Shield Guide (PDF)](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/downloads/pdf/open-source-face-shield-designs.pdf) -- ~~[Prusa Face Shield STL Files - Printables](https://www.printables.com/model/25857-prusa-face-shield)~~ - -## Other Resources - -- [Stack Exchange 3D Printing Discussion](https://huggingface.co/datasets/HuggingFaceH4/stack-exchange-preferences/viewer/default/train) \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/faceshield-with-extrusion-die-and-a4-clear-sheet/config.json b/howtos/faceshield-with-extrusion-die-and-a4-clear-sheet/config.json index bda963079..649bf13cf 100644 --- a/howtos/faceshield-with-extrusion-die-and-a4-clear-sheet/config.json +++ b/howtos/faceshield-with-extrusion-die-and-a4-clear-sheet/config.json @@ -8,7 +8,7 @@ "sigolene" ], "slug": "faceshield-with-extrusion-die-and-a4-clear-sheet", - "description": "This guide demonstrates how to make a face shield using fundamental materials and an extrusion machine. Face shields are in short supply in many regions impacted by COVID-19, and as many as 22 may be required per patient. A fast, DIY approach to production is essential. Note that face shields are meant to supplement goggles and masks, aiming to reduce viral exposure.", + "description": "We make a face shield from basic elements and the extrusion machine. Face shields are critically lacking in many countries affected by COVID-19. You need up to 22 per patient. We need a DIY way of making these and making these fast..\nRemember face shields are only a complement to googles and masks and are meant to reduce the viral charge.", "_deleted": false, "title": "Faceshield with extrusion die and A4 clear sheet", "category": { @@ -67,12 +67,12 @@ } ], "title": "Make a nozzle to attach to the extruder.", - "text": "### Instructions for Nozzle Design\n\nThe nozzle should feature a large entry point with a tapering end. Incorporate bars to partially cool the material and guide it towards the exit. To activate, apply heat using a hot air gun. The external plates should be spaced 0.04 inches (1 mm) apart. Operating without a nozzle increases difficulty in controlling the thickness and elasticity of the resulting band.\n\n[Watch the tutorial here.](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BTiQqPFE9vs)", + "text": "The nozzle needs to have a relatively large entry and a tapering end.\nThe best is to have some bars to cool down a bit the plastic and funnel it towards the exit.\nTo activate the nozzle we heat it up with hot air gun\nThe outside plates are only 1mm apart \nYou can also do it without nozzle but it is even more complicated to control the thickness and elasticity of the future band\nyoutube.com: youtube.com/watch?v=BTiQqPFE9vs", "_animationKey": "unique1" }, { "title": "Extrude the stripe", - "text": "This part requires care to ensure the plastic is extracted evenly, maintaining consistent thickness and flow. Operate the motor at the slowest speed. Variations in thickness and cooling rates may cause twisting. Heat it with a hot air gun and use a metal mangle to straighten it, though the strip may remain slightly concave, which does not affect the design. Based on the Badger shield specifications, the optimal head contact is 13 inches (33 cm). Cut accordingly. We used HDPE, commonly sourced and easy to melt, from locally recovered ocean plastic.", + "text": "This is a delicate part and needs improvement as you need to pull the plastic out so that the thickness and flow is even. Make your motor rotate at the slowest speed possible.\nBecause of changes in the thickness and rate of cooling your stripe might twist\nWe heat it up back with the hot air gun and pass it inside our metal mangle. This will straighten the band. Don#t expect miracles, you will keep the concave shape. Although in the end it makes no difference with our design\nBased on the work on the Badger shield\ndelve.com: delve.com/assets/documents/OPEN-SOURCE-FACE-SHIELD-DRAWING-v1.PDF\nWe can see that ideally the contact with the head should be 13\"/ 33 cm. Cut to length\nHere we have used HDPE from ocean plastic we regularly recover on the local beaches. We recommend HDPE as it is easier to source and also low temperature to melt.", "caption": "", "_animationKey": "unique2", "images": [ @@ -143,11 +143,11 @@ "alt": "punchstripe.png" } ], - "text": "The ideal attachment is a clothing elastic band. In its absence, use rope as shown in an example from a tutorial. To facilitate attachment without knots, punch several holes. A 10 mm (0.4 in) square wood chisel is suitable. Create three pairs of holes and one set of three holes on one end, or reduce to two pairs if using rope.", + "text": "The best for the attachment is an elastic band for clothes but we didn't have any so made with a rope like in the example of menorplastic.com: menorplastic.com/tutorial-para-fabricarte-tu-protector-facial-casero\nhowever to avoid making knots and for an easy attachment you can simply punch a set of holes \nA square wood chisel size 10 is perfect for that.\nYou have to make 3 sets of 2 holes and one set of 3 holes at one end (could be two if you use rope)", "title": "Punch holes for the attachment" }, { - "text": "Arrange components according to the drawing for optimal comfort. The two-hole design enables quick adjustment for any head size. The third hole provides a secure latch for the elastic band. For easier adjustment, use a knot as shown in the third illustration.", + "text": "Follow the right order for comfort, according to drawing\nThe 2-hole design allows to tighten at any size of head quickly.\nThe third hole design is to pass the elastic band in a very secure latch.\nYou can also make a similar knot as in the third figure for easier adjustment.", "title": "lace the plastic band", "_animationKey": "uniquer89agb", "images": [ @@ -230,7 +230,7 @@ } ], "title": "Staple the screen", - "text": "### Instructions for Assembling a Screen Attachment\n\n1. Center the screen with your attachment and begin stapling at one end. Three staples are sufficient: one at each end and one in the middle, applied progressively from one side to the other.\n \n2. Ensure staples remain open until the screen is pulled tightly against the extruded plastic strip. If necessary, repunch the screen to achieve the desired tension.\n\n3. Plastic sheets can be obtained from overhead projectors or lamination machines, where two ends can be adhered together.\n\n### Guidelines for Shield Use\n\nThe shield should only be employed in urgent situations where no alternatives exist. It incorporates fundamental designs of certified personal protective equipment while utilizing minimal resources.\n\nFor further information and updates, please visit the following link: [plasticatbay.org: plasticatbay.org/2020/03/29/plasticbay-faceshield-design](https://www.plasticatbay.org/2020/03/29/plasticbay-faceshield-design)" + "text": "Try to center the screen with your attachment then staple from one end.\n3 staples suffice one on each end and one in the middle, going progressively from one side to the other.\nKeep the staples open until the screen is really tight on the plastic stripe you extruded. You can repunch the screen to tighten if needed.\nThe plastic sheets can be sourced from overhead or like here from a lamination machine where we stuck two ends together.\n\nThe shield is only to be used in extreme cases where no other alternatives are possible. However it takes on most of the designs of approved PPE with a minimum of resource\n\nYou can get more details and updates if you follow this link. We cannot update both websites at the same times at the moment. Sorry for the inconvenience\nplasticatbay.org: plasticatbay.org/2020/03/29/plasticbay-faceshield-design" } ], "_modified": "2023-09-10T11:04:12.863Z", @@ -364,9 +364,5 @@ "urls": [] } }, - "content": "This guide demonstrates how to make a face shield using fundamental materials and an extrusion machine. Face shields are in short supply in many regions impacted by COVID-19, and as many as 22 may be required per patient. A fast, DIY approach to production is essential. Note that face shields are meant to supplement goggles and masks, aiming to reduce viral exposure.\n\n\nUser Location: Wick, United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland (the)\n\n### Instructions for Nozzle Design\n\nThe nozzle should feature a large entry point with a tapering end. Incorporate bars to partially cool the material and guide it towards the exit. To activate, apply heat using a hot air gun. The external plates should be spaced 0.04 inches (1 mm) apart. Operating without a nozzle increases difficulty in controlling the thickness and elasticity of the resulting band.\n\n[Watch the tutorial here.](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BTiQqPFE9vs)\n\nThis part requires care to ensure the plastic is extracted evenly, maintaining consistent thickness and flow. Operate the motor at the slowest speed. Variations in thickness and cooling rates may cause twisting. Heat it with a hot air gun and use a metal mangle to straighten it, though the strip may remain slightly concave, which does not affect the design. Based on the Badger shield specifications, the optimal head contact is 13 inches (33 cm). Cut accordingly. We used HDPE, commonly sourced and easy to melt, from locally recovered ocean plastic.\n\nThe ideal attachment is a clothing elastic band. In its absence, use rope as shown in an example from a tutorial. To facilitate attachment without knots, punch several holes. A 10 mm (0.4 in) square wood chisel is suitable. Create three pairs of holes and one set of three holes on one end, or reduce to two pairs if using rope.\n\nArrange components according to the drawing for optimal comfort. The two-hole design enables quick adjustment for any head size. The third hole provides a secure latch for the elastic band. For easier adjustment, use a knot as shown in the third illustration.\n\n### Instructions for Assembling a Screen Attachment\n\n1. Center the screen with your attachment and begin stapling at one end. Three staples are sufficient: one at each end and one in the middle, applied progressively from one side to the other.\n \n2. Ensure staples remain open until the screen is pulled tightly against the extruded plastic strip. If necessary, repunch the screen to achieve the desired tension.\n\n3. Plastic sheets can be obtained from overhead projectors or lamination machines, where two ends can be adhered together.\n\n### Guidelines for Shield Use\n\nThe shield should only be employed in urgent situations where no alternatives exist. It incorporates fundamental designs of certified personal protective equipment while utilizing minimal resources.\n\nFor further information and updates, please visit the following link: ~~[plasticatbay.org: plasticatbay.org/2020/03/29/plasticbay-faceshield-design](https://www.plasticatbay.org/2020/03/29/plasticbay-faceshield-design)~~", - "keywords": "face shield DIY, COVID-19 protection, extrusion machine face shield, homemade face shield, face shield assembly, HDPE face shield, nozzle design for face shield, plastic sheet shield, elastic band attachment, emergency face protection", - "resources": "### Hardware\n\n- Extrusion machine with adjustable speed motor [video guide](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BTiQqPFE9vs)\n- Custom nozzle (1 mm spaced plates, cooling bars for material guidance)\n- Metal mangle for plastic straightening\n\n### Tools\n\n- Hot air gun (plastic heating/activation)\n- 10 mm square wood chisel (hole punching)\n- Stapler (screen attachment)\n\n### Materials\n\n- HDPE plastic (recovered ocean plastic, meltable)\n- Overhead projector/lamination machine plastic sheets ~~[design specs](https://www.plasticatbay.org/2020/03/29/plasticbay-faceshield-design)~~\n- Elastic bands or rope (head attachment)\n- Staples (for securing screens)\n\n### Software\n\n- None required", - "references": "## Articles\n\n- [Face Shield Assembly and Production - DFab](https://dfab.uw.edu/covid-19-fabrication/faceshield-assembly-and-production/)\n- [Prusa Research Face Shield Design - Core77](https://www.core77.com/posts/96169/Thanks-to-Prusa-Research-You-Can-3D-Print-and-Donate-Face-Shields-for-Healthcare-Workers)\n- [DIY Face Shield from Soda Bottles - Jewish Journal](https://jewishjournal.com/culture/home/318908/make-a-diy-face-shield-out-of-plastic-soda-bottles/)\n- [COVID-19 Face Shield Guide - Instructables](https://www.instructables.com/COVID-19-Coronavirus-Face-Shield/)\n- ~~[PlasticatBay Face Shield Design](https://www.plasticatbay.org/2020/03/29/plasticbay-faceshield-design)~~\n\n## YouTube\n\n- [Face Shield Design Tutorial - YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BYPWB5-auQE)\n- [Nozzle Activation Tutorial - YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BTiQqPFE9vs)\n\n## Opensource Designs\n\n- [Adafruit Open Source Shield Guide (PDF)](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/downloads/pdf/open-source-face-shield-designs.pdf)\n- ~~[Prusa Face Shield STL Files - Printables](https://www.printables.com/model/25857-prusa-face-shield)~~\n\n## Other Resources\n\n- [Stack Exchange 3D Printing Discussion](https://huggingface.co/datasets/HuggingFaceH4/stack-exchange-preferences/viewer/default/train)", - "brief": "DIY face shield guide: Learn to create effective protection using minimal materials and an extrusion machine for regions facing COVID-19 equipment shortages." + "content": "We make a face shield from basic elements and the extrusion machine. Face shields are critically lacking in many countries affected by COVID-19. You need up to 22 per patient. We need a DIY way of making these and making these fast..\nRemember face shields are only a complement to googles and masks and are meant to reduce the viral charge.\n\n\nUser Location: Wick, United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland (the)\n\nThe nozzle needs to have a relatively large entry and a tapering end.\nThe best is to have some bars to cool down a bit the plastic and funnel it towards the exit.\nTo activate the nozzle we heat it up with hot air gun\nThe outside plates are only 1mm apart \nYou can also do it without nozzle but it is even more complicated to control the thickness and elasticity of the future band\nyoutube.com: youtube.com/watch?v=BTiQqPFE9vs\n\nThis is a delicate part and needs improvement as you need to pull the plastic out so that the thickness and flow is even. Make your motor rotate at the slowest speed possible.\nBecause of changes in the thickness and rate of cooling your stripe might twist\nWe heat it up back with the hot air gun and pass it inside our metal mangle. This will straighten the band. Don#t expect miracles, you will keep the concave shape. Although in the end it makes no difference with our design\nBased on the work on the Badger shield\ndelve.com: delve.com/assets/documents/OPEN-SOURCE-FACE-SHIELD-DRAWING-v1.PDF\nWe can see that ideally the contact with the head should be 13\"/ 33 cm. Cut to length\nHere we have used HDPE from ocean plastic we regularly recover on the local beaches. We recommend HDPE as it is easier to source and also low temperature to melt.\n\nThe best for the attachment is an elastic band for clothes but we didn't have any so made with a rope like in the example of menorplastic.com: menorplastic.com/tutorial-para-fabricarte-tu-protector-facial-casero\nhowever to avoid making knots and for an easy attachment you can simply punch a set of holes \nA square wood chisel size 10 is perfect for that.\nYou have to make 3 sets of 2 holes and one set of 3 holes at one end (could be two if you use rope)\n\nFollow the right order for comfort, according to drawing\nThe 2-hole design allows to tighten at any size of head quickly.\nThe third hole design is to pass the elastic band in a very secure latch.\nYou can also make a similar knot as in the third figure for easier adjustment.\n\nTry to center the screen with your attachment then staple from one end.\n3 staples suffice one on each end and one in the middle, going progressively from one side to the other.\nKeep the staples open until the screen is really tight on the plastic stripe you extruded. You can repunch the screen to tighten if needed.\nThe plastic sheets can be sourced from overhead or like here from a lamination machine where we stuck two ends together.\n\nThe shield is only to be used in extreme cases where no other alternatives are possible. However it takes on most of the designs of approved PPE with a minimum of resource\n\nYou can get more details and updates if you follow this link. We cannot update both websites at the same times at the moment. Sorry for the inconvenience\nplasticatbay.org: plasticatbay.org/2020/03/29/plasticbay-faceshield-design" } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/handling-molds-easily/README.md b/howtos/handling-molds-easily/README.md index 227acf70f..17abbe98d 100644 --- a/howtos/handling-molds-easily/README.md +++ b/howtos/handling-molds-easily/README.md @@ -1,112 +1,90 @@ --- title: Handling molds easily slug: handling-molds-easily -description: This tutorial explains how to use a winch to handle molds efficiently. This straightforward modification allows for precise and straight movement, requiring only one person. +description: In this tutorial, we will explain how to facilitate the handling of the molds, using a winch to pull them. +This modification, relatively simple to carry out allows : +- an accurate and straight move +- only one people + tags: ["mould","sheetpress"] category: Guides difficulty: Medium time: < 1 week -keywords: winch tutorial, mold handling, wall-mounted winch, cold press equipment, mold transfer technique, sheet metal resizing, steel cable buckle, metal bar notches, friction reduction, precise mold movement +keywords: location: Eurre, France --- # Handling molds easily ![Handling molds easily](intro_handling-molds_easily2.png) -This tutorial explains how to use a winch to handle molds efficiently. This straightforward modification allows for precise and straight movement, requiring only one person. +In this tutorial, we will explain how to facilitate the handling of the molds, using a winch to pull them. +This modification, relatively simple to carry out allows : +- an accurate and straight move +- only one people + User Location: Eurre, France ## Steps ### Step 1: 1 - Setting the winch -The manual winch (Einhell TC-WI500) is wall-mounted 11.8 inches (30 cm) above the preparation table, behind the Coldpress. Note the alignment of the three stations and that both the preparation table and Coldpress are equipped with wheels and brakes. +The manual winch (Einhell TC-WI500) has been wall mounted behind the Coldpress, 30cm above the prepairing table. +Please notice the alignment of our 3 stations, and that the prepairing table and the Coldpress are equiped with wheels and brakes. + + ![Capture d’écran 2021-10-21 à 13.04.40.png](./Capture_decran_2021-10-21_a_13.04.40.png) ### Step 2: 2- Connecting the winch -We resized the sheet metal to 120x125 cm (47.24x49.21 inches) for the hanging system. +We resized the sheet metal to 120x125 cm to host the hanging system. -1. Holes were drilled in the sheet metal for a steel cable buckle. +1- We drilled the sheets metal to host a buckle made with a steel cable + +2- The cable tip of the winch has also been buckled + +3- Notches were engraved in a metal bar, to match with the 3 buckled cables. -2. The winch cable tip was also buckled. -3. Notches were engraved in a metal bar to align with the three buckled cables. ![Capture d’écran 2021-10-21 à 13.05.19.png](./Capture_decran_2021-10-21_a_13.05.19.png) ### Step 3: 3- Handling (1) -1. Transferring the Mold to the Sheet Press +1- Moving the mold from the preparation table to the sheetpress -Unroll the winch from the wall to the preparation table, threading it through the cold press and the sheet press. Use a metal bar to attach the winch's buckles to the metal sheet. +Unroll the winch from the wall unto the preparation table, passing through the coldpress and the sheetpress. Use the metal bar to connect the buckles of the winch and the metal sheet ones. -Move the preparation table beside the sheet press. +Make the preparation table roll next to the sheetpress + +Wind the winch to pull the mold in the sheetpress. -Wind the winch to position the mold in the sheet press. ![Capture d’écran 2021-10-21 à 13.05.40.png](./Capture_decran_2021-10-21_a_13.05.40.png) ### Step 4: 3- Handling (2) -2. Transferring the Mold: +2- Moving the mold from the sheetpress to the coldpress : + +As soon as the heating cycle is over, make the coldpress roll next to the sheetpress, then wind the winch again to unload the mold onto the coldpress. -After completing the heating cycle, move the cold press beside the sheet press and use the winch to transfer the mold onto the cold press. ![Capture d’écran 2021-10-21 à 13.06.00.png](./Capture_decran_2021-10-21_a_13.06.00.png) ### Step 5: 4- Tips and tricks -To prevent friction and ease mold transfer: +To avoid rubbing and to facilitate the mold transferring : + +the preparation table has been coated with a polypropylene plate (instead of wood). + +When loading the mold between 2 tables, we suggest to raise the 1st table 2 cm higher than the second. + +keep the stations aligned with the winch cable to avoid rotating the mold when pulling. -- A polypropylene plate is used on the preparation table. -- When placing the mold between two tables, elevate the first table by 0.8 inches (2 cm) above the second. -- Ensure stations align with the winch cable to prevent mold rotation during pulling. ![Capture d’écran 2021-10-21 à 13.06.17.png](./Capture_decran_2021-10-21_a_13.06.17.png) ## Resources -Here's an organized breakdown of the key components used in the mold-handling system: - -### Tools - -- [Einhell TC-WI500 manual winch](https://www.amazon.fr/s?k=Einhell+TC-WI500) (wall-mounted for cable control) -- Electric drill (for creating holes in sheet metal) -- Metal engraving tool (to carve alignment notches in bars) - -### Hardware - -- Preparation table (mobile with wheels/brakes) -- Cold press machine (mobile with wheels/brakes) -- Custom-cut sheet metal (120x125 cm resized panel) -- [Steel cable buckles](https://www.amazon.fr/s?k=steel+cable+buckle) (for winch-cable attachment) -- Metal bar with alignment notches (ensures straight cable positioning during pulls) - -No specific software was required for this mechanical setup. -## References -## References - -### Articles - -- Handling molds easily - [filtered] Academy -- [How To Build A Winch Plate: A Comprehensive DIY Guide](https://offroadpull.com/winch/accessories/mounting-plate/build/) - -### Youtube - -- [How To Install A Badland ZXR 2500 Winch & Winch Mounting Plate](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FdQmq8X7P00) - -### Opensource Designs - -- [Opensource electric winch - SkyPuff (Paragliding Forum)](https://www.paraglidingforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=99218) - -### Technical Manuals - -- [FITTING AND OPERATING GUIDE 12V / 24V DC ELECTRIC WINCH (PDF)](https://cdn.manomano.com/files/pdf/41029331.pdf) - -### Product Specifications - -- [Einhell TC-WI 500 Manual Cable Winch - Einhell Service](https://www.einhell-service.com/en_GB/2260160-tc-wi-500.html) -- [Einhell 2260160 TC-WI 500 Manual Cable Winch - Toolnation](https://www.toolnation.com/einhell-2260160-tc-wi-500-manual-cable-winch-500-kg.html) \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/handling-molds-easily/config.json b/howtos/handling-molds-easily/config.json index eb77e8172..bf3438b9c 100644 --- a/howtos/handling-molds-easily/config.json +++ b/howtos/handling-molds-easily/config.json @@ -5,7 +5,7 @@ "_id": "fYPVLWAwgRcQduWr4Mxm", "total_views": 286, "creatorCountry": "fr", - "description": "This tutorial explains how to use a winch to handle molds efficiently. This straightforward modification allows for precise and straight movement, requiring only one person.", + "description": "In this tutorial, we will explain how to facilitate the handling of the molds, using a winch to pull them.\nThis modification, relatively simple to carry out allows :\n- an accurate and straight move\n- only one people\n", "_deleted": false, "votedUsefulBy": [ "bresiana", @@ -51,7 +51,7 @@ { "title": "1 - Setting the winch", "_animationKey": "unique1", - "text": "The manual winch (Einhell TC-WI500) is wall-mounted 11.8 inches (30 cm) above the preparation table, behind the Coldpress. Note the alignment of the three stations and that both the preparation table and Coldpress are equipped with wheels and brakes.", + "text": "The manual winch (Einhell TC-WI500) has been wall mounted behind the Coldpress, 30cm above the prepairing table.\nPlease notice the alignment of our 3 stations, and that the prepairing table and the Coldpress are equiped with wheels and brakes.\n\n", "images": [ { "type": "image/jpeg", @@ -84,7 +84,7 @@ ], "title": "2- Connecting the winch ", "_animationKey": "unique2", - "text": "We resized the sheet metal to 120x125 cm (47.24x49.21 inches) for the hanging system.\n\n1. Holes were drilled in the sheet metal for a steel cable buckle.\n\n2. The winch cable tip was also buckled.\n\n3. Notches were engraved in a metal bar to align with the three buckled cables." + "text": "We resized the sheet metal to 120x125 cm to host the hanging system.\n\n1- We drilled the sheets metal to host a buckle made with a steel cable\n\n2- The cable tip of the winch has also been buckled\n\n3- Notches were engraved in a metal bar, to match with the 3 buckled cables.\n\n" }, { "title": "3- Handling (1)", @@ -103,7 +103,7 @@ } ], "_animationKey": "unique3", - "text": "1. Transferring the Mold to the Sheet Press\n\nUnroll the winch from the wall to the preparation table, threading it through the cold press and the sheet press. Use a metal bar to attach the winch's buckles to the metal sheet.\n\nMove the preparation table beside the sheet press.\n\nWind the winch to position the mold in the sheet press." + "text": "1- Moving the mold from the preparation table to the sheetpress\n\nUnroll the winch from the wall unto the preparation table, passing through the coldpress and the sheetpress. Use the metal bar to connect the buckles of the winch and the metal sheet ones.\n\nMake the preparation table roll next to the sheetpress\n\nWind the winch to pull the mold in the sheetpress.\n" }, { "images": [ @@ -122,7 +122,7 @@ ], "title": "3- Handling (2)", "_animationKey": "uniquemnpjfm", - "text": "2. Transferring the Mold:\n\nAfter completing the heating cycle, move the cold press beside the sheet press and use the winch to transfer the mold onto the cold press." + "text": "2- Moving the mold from the sheetpress to the coldpress :\n\nAs soon as the heating cycle is over, make the coldpress roll next to the sheetpress, then wind the winch again to unload the mold onto the coldpress.\n" }, { "title": "4- Tips and tricks", @@ -141,7 +141,7 @@ "alt": "Capture d’écran 2021-10-21 à 13.06.17.png" } ], - "text": "To prevent friction and ease mold transfer:\n\n- A polypropylene plate is used on the preparation table.\n- When placing the mold between two tables, elevate the first table by 0.8 inches (2 cm) above the second.\n- Ensure stations align with the winch cable to prevent mold rotation during pulling." + "text": "To avoid rubbing and to facilitate the mold transferring :\n\nthe preparation table has been coated with a polypropylene plate (instead of wood).\n\nWhen loading the mold between 2 tables, we suggest to raise the 1st table 2 cm higher than the second.\n\nkeep the stations aligned with the winch cable to avoid rotating the mold when pulling.\n" } ], "_created": "2021-07-12T14:32:51.002Z", @@ -329,9 +329,5 @@ "urls": [] } }, - "content": "This tutorial explains how to use a winch to handle molds efficiently. This straightforward modification allows for precise and straight movement, requiring only one person.\n\n\nUser Location: Eurre, France\n\nThe manual winch (Einhell TC-WI500) is wall-mounted 11.8 inches (30 cm) above the preparation table, behind the Coldpress. Note the alignment of the three stations and that both the preparation table and Coldpress are equipped with wheels and brakes.\n\nWe resized the sheet metal to 120x125 cm (47.24x49.21 inches) for the hanging system.\n\n1. Holes were drilled in the sheet metal for a steel cable buckle.\n\n2. The winch cable tip was also buckled.\n\n3. Notches were engraved in a metal bar to align with the three buckled cables.\n\n1. Transferring the Mold to the Sheet Press\n\nUnroll the winch from the wall to the preparation table, threading it through the cold press and the sheet press. Use a metal bar to attach the winch's buckles to the metal sheet.\n\nMove the preparation table beside the sheet press.\n\nWind the winch to position the mold in the sheet press.\n\n2. Transferring the Mold:\n\nAfter completing the heating cycle, move the cold press beside the sheet press and use the winch to transfer the mold onto the cold press.\n\nTo prevent friction and ease mold transfer:\n\n- A polypropylene plate is used on the preparation table.\n- When placing the mold between two tables, elevate the first table by 0.8 inches (2 cm) above the second.\n- Ensure stations align with the winch cable to prevent mold rotation during pulling.", - "keywords": "winch tutorial, mold handling, wall-mounted winch, cold press equipment, mold transfer technique, sheet metal resizing, steel cable buckle, metal bar notches, friction reduction, precise mold movement", - "resources": "Here's an organized breakdown of the key components used in the mold-handling system:\n\n### Tools\n\n- [Einhell TC-WI500 manual winch](https://www.amazon.fr/s?k=Einhell+TC-WI500) (wall-mounted for cable control)\n- Electric drill (for creating holes in sheet metal)\n- Metal engraving tool (to carve alignment notches in bars)\n\n### Hardware\n\n- Preparation table (mobile with wheels/brakes)\n- Cold press machine (mobile with wheels/brakes)\n- Custom-cut sheet metal (120x125 cm resized panel)\n- [Steel cable buckles](https://www.amazon.fr/s?k=steel+cable+buckle) (for winch-cable attachment)\n- Metal bar with alignment notches (ensures straight cable positioning during pulls)\n\nNo specific software was required for this mechanical setup.", - "references": "## References\n\n### Articles\n\n- Handling molds easily - [filtered] Academy\n- [How To Build A Winch Plate: A Comprehensive DIY Guide](https://offroadpull.com/winch/accessories/mounting-plate/build/)\n\n### Youtube\n\n- [How To Install A Badland ZXR 2500 Winch & Winch Mounting Plate](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FdQmq8X7P00)\n\n### Opensource Designs\n\n- [Opensource electric winch - SkyPuff (Paragliding Forum)](https://www.paraglidingforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=99218)\n\n### Technical Manuals\n\n- [FITTING AND OPERATING GUIDE 12V / 24V DC ELECTRIC WINCH (PDF)](https://cdn.manomano.com/files/pdf/41029331.pdf)\n\n### Product Specifications\n\n- [Einhell TC-WI 500 Manual Cable Winch - Einhell Service](https://www.einhell-service.com/en_GB/2260160-tc-wi-500.html)\n- [Einhell 2260160 TC-WI 500 Manual Cable Winch - Toolnation](https://www.toolnation.com/einhell-2260160-tc-wi-500-manual-cable-winch-500-kg.html)", - "brief": "Learn to efficiently use a winch to handle molds solo with precise movements. Optimize your workflow with this straightforward modification guide." + "content": "In this tutorial, we will explain how to facilitate the handling of the molds, using a winch to pull them.\nThis modification, relatively simple to carry out allows :\n- an accurate and straight move\n- only one people\n\n\n\nUser Location: Eurre, France\n\nThe manual winch (Einhell TC-WI500) has been wall mounted behind the Coldpress, 30cm above the prepairing table.\nPlease notice the alignment of our 3 stations, and that the prepairing table and the Coldpress are equiped with wheels and brakes.\n\n\n\nWe resized the sheet metal to 120x125 cm to host the hanging system.\n\n1- We drilled the sheets metal to host a buckle made with a steel cable\n\n2- The cable tip of the winch has also been buckled\n\n3- Notches were engraved in a metal bar, to match with the 3 buckled cables.\n\n\n\n1- Moving the mold from the preparation table to the sheetpress\n\nUnroll the winch from the wall unto the preparation table, passing through the coldpress and the sheetpress. Use the metal bar to connect the buckles of the winch and the metal sheet ones.\n\nMake the preparation table roll next to the sheetpress\n\nWind the winch to pull the mold in the sheetpress.\n\n\n2- Moving the mold from the sheetpress to the coldpress :\n\nAs soon as the heating cycle is over, make the coldpress roll next to the sheetpress, then wind the winch again to unload the mold onto the coldpress.\n\n\nTo avoid rubbing and to facilitate the mold transferring :\n\nthe preparation table has been coated with a polypropylene plate (instead of wood).\n\nWhen loading the mold between 2 tables, we suggest to raise the 1st table 2 cm higher than the second.\n\nkeep the stations aligned with the winch cable to avoid rotating the mold when pulling.\n" } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/hands-free-door-opener-mould/README.md b/howtos/hands-free-door-opener-mould/README.md index c971b7354..f5ab13180 100644 --- a/howtos/hands-free-door-opener-mould/README.md +++ b/howtos/hands-free-door-opener-mould/README.md @@ -1,37 +1,42 @@ --- title: Hands-Free Door Opener Mould slug: hands-free-door-opener-mould -description: This guide provides instructions to create a mold for an injection-molded "hands-free" door handle. +description: With this How-to you can make your mould to inject a "hands free" door handle - to help stop the spread of COVID-19! tags: ["product","mould"] category: Moulds difficulty: Hard time: < 1 week -keywords: injection molded door handle, CNC files, aluminum mold creation, hands-free door handle, mold assembly instructions, 3D files by Materialise, downloadable CNC designs, hands-free door handle mold, sealing aluminum mold, Athens CNC manufacturing +keywords: location: Athens, Greece --- # Hands-Free Door Opener Mould ![Hands-Free Door Opener Mould](door-step_2-1-18391d09466.jpg) -This guide provides instructions to create a mold for an injection-molded "hands-free" door handle. +With this How-to you can make your mould to inject a "hands free" door handle - to help stop the spread of COVID-19! User Location: Athens, Greece ## Steps ### Step 1: Download and mill the moulds -Attached are the CNC files created from the 3D files by Materialise. Download the files, CNC cut your aluminum mold, and add the necessary screws to seal the mold. +Attached you can find the CNC-files I created based on the 3D files provided by Materialise. +(materialise.com: materialise.com/en/hands-free-door-opener/technical-information) + +Download the files, CNC cut your aluminium mould and add required screws to close the mould. + ![mould.jpg](./mould.jpg) ### Step 2: Inject and assemble -### Assembly Instructions +Once you injected your parts with your injection machine, you can assemble the product. -#### Required Materials: -- Two injected parts -- Two M4 screws and nuts -- One bike tube for spacing +You'll need: +- The two injected parts +- 2x M4 screws and Nuts +- 1x bike tube for in between -For detailed assembly instructions, please refer to the following link: [YouTube Assembly Instructions](https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=163&v=95aPYlXShTY&feature=emb_logo) +You can find more instructions for assembly here: +youtube.com: youtube.com/watch?time_continue=163&v=95aPYlXShTY&feature=emb_logo ![door-step 2-1.jpg](./door-step_2-1.jpg) @@ -44,9 +49,15 @@ For detailed assembly instructions, please refer to the following link: [YouTube ### Step 3: Use it! -Consider manual efforts to minimize impact. +Do less harm, use your arm :) + +Oh, and If you prefer to buy the mould, you can order it from me on the bazar: + + + + + -If you wish to purchase the mold, it is available for order. ![door-step 3.jpg](./door-step_3.jpg) @@ -55,47 +66,4 @@ If you wish to purchase the mold, it is available for order. ![door-cover image-18391d0b163.jpg](./door-cover_image-18391d0b163.jpg) ## Resources -To create the injection-molded door handle mold, here are the essential tools, software, and materials: - -### Software - -- [Materialise software](https://www.materialise.com/) for CNC file generation - -### Tools - -- CNC machine for cutting the aluminum mold - -### Hardware - -- CNC-cut aluminum mold -- M4 screws and nuts -- Bike tube (for spacing) -- Injected parts (2x) - -For assembly guidance, refer to the [YouTube tutorial](https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=163\&v=95aPYlXShTY\&feature=emb_logo). -## References -## Articles - -- [Structural optimization design of injection mould for automobile inner door handle](https://gudmould.wordpress.com/2022/01/23/structural-optimization-design-of-injection-mould-for-automobile-inner-door-handle/) -- [3D Printed Door Handle | V&A Explore The Collections](https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O1609498/3d-printed-door-materialise/) -- [Thermoset Injection Molded Oven Handles](https://www.mcmusa.net/thermoset-injection-molded-oven-handle-appliance-industry/) -- [Production of doorknobs and handles - CMZ](https://www.cmz.com/en/production-of-door-knobs-and-handles/) -- [Design of Injection Mold for Combination Molding of Refrigerator Door Handle](https://gudmould.wordpress.com/2021/04/12/design-of-injection-mold-for-combination-molding-of-refrigerator-door-handle/) - -## YouTube - -- [Plastic Injection mold - door frame set](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bzMf9PCwqVE) - -## Opensource Designs - -- [My Metal Hand Doorknob](https://www.instructables.com/My-Metal-Hand-Doorknob/) -- [Hands-free Door Handle Turn](https://www.instructables.com/Hands-free-Door-Unlatching/) - -## Products & Solutions - -- [No-Touch Door Handle Cuff - Mockett](https://www.mockett.com/ada-hardware/dhc1-90.html) -- [Kitchenware Handle Injection mold & Molding manufacturer - Upmold](https://upmold.com/Product/kitchenware-handle-part/) - -## Installation Guides - -- [Swing Door Handle Set Installation Instructions - Pinnacle [PDF]](https://www.windsorpinnacle.com/file/85921) \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/hands-free-door-opener-mould/config.json b/howtos/hands-free-door-opener-mould/config.json index 8f08d9134..19d0381d9 100644 --- a/howtos/hands-free-door-opener-mould/config.json +++ b/howtos/hands-free-door-opener-mould/config.json @@ -1,5 +1,5 @@ { - "description": "This guide provides instructions to create a mold for an injection-molded \"hands-free\" door handle.", + "description": "With this How-to you can make your mould to inject a \"hands free\" door handle - to help stop the spread of COVID-19!", "title": "Hands-Free Door Opener Mould", "caption": "Door opener (for heavy doors)", "id": "8rlcYBbp9cQIuWKvWI2r", @@ -66,10 +66,10 @@ } ], "caption": "", - "text": "Attached are the CNC files created from the 3D files by Materialise. Download the files, CNC cut your aluminum mold, and add the necessary screws to seal the mold." + "text": "Attached you can find the CNC-files I created based on the 3D files provided by Materialise.\n(materialise.com: materialise.com/en/hands-free-door-opener/technical-information)\n\nDownload the files, CNC cut your aluminium mould and add required screws to close the mould.\n" }, { - "text": "### Assembly Instructions\n\n#### Required Materials:\n- Two injected parts\n- Two M4 screws and nuts\n- One bike tube for spacing\n\nFor detailed assembly instructions, please refer to the following link: [YouTube Assembly Instructions](https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=163&v=95aPYlXShTY&feature=emb_logo)", + "text": "Once you injected your parts with your injection machine, you can assemble the product.\n\nYou'll need:\n- The two injected parts\n- 2x M4 screws and Nuts\n- 1x bike tube for in between\n\nYou can find more instructions for assembly here:\nyoutube.com: youtube.com/watch?time_continue=163&v=95aPYlXShTY&feature=emb_logo", "title": "Inject and assemble", "_animationKey": "uniquev789w9", "images": [ @@ -140,7 +140,7 @@ ], "_animationKey": "unique0rzqym", "title": "Use it!", - "text": "Consider manual efforts to minimize impact.\n\nIf you wish to purchase the mold, it is available for order." + "text": "Do less harm, use your arm :)\n\nOh, and If you prefer to buy the mould, you can order it from me on the bazar:\n\n\n\n\n\n" } ], "_contentModifiedTimestamp": "2022-12-01T13:32:25.740Z", @@ -307,9 +307,5 @@ "urls": [] } }, - "content": "This guide provides instructions to create a mold for an injection-molded \"hands-free\" door handle.\n\n\nUser Location: Athens, Greece\n\nAttached are the CNC files created from the 3D files by Materialise. Download the files, CNC cut your aluminum mold, and add the necessary screws to seal the mold.\n\n### Assembly Instructions\n\n#### Required Materials:\n- Two injected parts\n- Two M4 screws and nuts\n- One bike tube for spacing\n\nFor detailed assembly instructions, please refer to the following link: [YouTube Assembly Instructions](https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=163&v=95aPYlXShTY&feature=emb_logo)\n\nConsider manual efforts to minimize impact.\n\nIf you wish to purchase the mold, it is available for order.", - "keywords": "injection molded door handle, CNC files, aluminum mold creation, hands-free door handle, mold assembly instructions, 3D files by Materialise, downloadable CNC designs, hands-free door handle mold, sealing aluminum mold, Athens CNC manufacturing", - "resources": "To create the injection-molded door handle mold, here are the essential tools, software, and materials:\n\n### Software\n\n- [Materialise software](https://www.materialise.com/) for CNC file generation\n\n### Tools\n\n- CNC machine for cutting the aluminum mold\n\n### Hardware\n\n- CNC-cut aluminum mold\n- M4 screws and nuts\n- Bike tube (for spacing)\n- Injected parts (2x)\n\nFor assembly guidance, refer to the [YouTube tutorial](https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=163\\&v=95aPYlXShTY\\&feature=emb_logo).", - "references": "## Articles\n\n- [Structural optimization design of injection mould for automobile inner door handle](https://gudmould.wordpress.com/2022/01/23/structural-optimization-design-of-injection-mould-for-automobile-inner-door-handle/)\n- [3D Printed Door Handle | V&A Explore The Collections](https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O1609498/3d-printed-door-materialise/)\n- [Thermoset Injection Molded Oven Handles](https://www.mcmusa.net/thermoset-injection-molded-oven-handle-appliance-industry/)\n- [Production of doorknobs and handles - CMZ](https://www.cmz.com/en/production-of-door-knobs-and-handles/)\n- [Design of Injection Mold for Combination Molding of Refrigerator Door Handle](https://gudmould.wordpress.com/2021/04/12/design-of-injection-mold-for-combination-molding-of-refrigerator-door-handle/)\n\n## YouTube\n\n- [Plastic Injection mold - door frame set](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bzMf9PCwqVE)\n\n## Opensource Designs\n\n- [My Metal Hand Doorknob](https://www.instructables.com/My-Metal-Hand-Doorknob/)\n- [Hands-free Door Handle Turn](https://www.instructables.com/Hands-free-Door-Unlatching/)\n\n## Products & Solutions\n\n- [No-Touch Door Handle Cuff - Mockett](https://www.mockett.com/ada-hardware/dhc1-90.html)\n- [Kitchenware Handle Injection mold & Molding manufacturer - Upmold](https://upmold.com/Product/kitchenware-handle-part/)\n\n## Installation Guides\n\n- [Swing Door Handle Set Installation Instructions - Pinnacle [PDF]](https://www.windsorpinnacle.com/file/85921)", - "brief": "Guide to create an injection-molded hands-free door handle with CNC files; includes required materials and assembly instructions. Order mold if needed." + "content": "With this How-to you can make your mould to inject a \"hands free\" door handle - to help stop the spread of COVID-19!\n\n\nUser Location: Athens, Greece\n\nAttached you can find the CNC-files I created based on the 3D files provided by Materialise.\n(materialise.com: materialise.com/en/hands-free-door-opener/technical-information)\n\nDownload the files, CNC cut your aluminium mould and add required screws to close the mould.\n\n\nOnce you injected your parts with your injection machine, you can assemble the product.\n\nYou'll need:\n- The two injected parts\n- 2x M4 screws and Nuts\n- 1x bike tube for in between\n\nYou can find more instructions for assembly here:\nyoutube.com: youtube.com/watch?time_continue=163&v=95aPYlXShTY&feature=emb_logo\n\nDo less harm, use your arm :)\n\nOh, and If you prefer to buy the mould, you can order it from me on the bazar:\n\n\n\n\n\n" } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/hdpe-dowel-nuts-for-break-down-furniture/README.md b/howtos/hdpe-dowel-nuts-for-break-down-furniture/README.md index 506b09bd2..5dabb29f4 100644 --- a/howtos/hdpe-dowel-nuts-for-break-down-furniture/README.md +++ b/howtos/hdpe-dowel-nuts-for-break-down-furniture/README.md @@ -1,79 +1,74 @@ --- title: HDPE Dowel Nuts for Break Down Furniture slug: hdpe-dowel-nuts-for-break-down-furniture -description: I use an induction stovetop to heat a steel pipe to cast HDPE plastic for threaded inserts. I often make furniture from pallet wood, and dowel nuts are useful for creating knock-down joints. They are not available in sizes larger than 1/2 inch (13 mm) in diameter. +description: I use an induction stovetop to heat up a steel pipe and cast HDPE plastic to make threaded inserts (the Threaded Beavers). I enjoy making furniture out of pallet wood and dowel nuts are helpful to help create knock down joints. They don't make them larger than 1/2" in diameter. tags: ["melting","HDPE","product","hack"] category: uncategorized difficulty: Easy time: < 1 day -keywords: induction stovetop, HDPE plastic casting, threaded inserts, pallet wood furniture, dowel nuts, knock-down joints, melting plastic process, safety equipment for plastic melting, HDPE components tutorial, affordable plastic processing tools +keywords: location: --- # HDPE Dowel Nuts for Break Down Furniture ![HDPE Dowel Nuts for Break Down Furniture](Finish_shot_exterior.jpg) -I use an induction stovetop to heat a steel pipe to cast HDPE plastic for threaded inserts. I often make furniture from pallet wood, and dowel nuts are useful for creating knock-down joints. They are not available in sizes larger than 1/2 inch (13 mm) in diameter. +I use an induction stovetop to heat up a steel pipe and cast HDPE plastic to make threaded inserts (the Threaded Beavers). I enjoy making furniture out of pallet wood and dowel nuts are helpful to help create knock down joints. They don't make them larger than 1/2" in diameter. ## Steps ### Step 1: Obtain tools and materials -### Tools for Melting Plastic +Tools to melt plastic: -- **Induction Plate**: [Amazon Basics 1800W Portable](https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-1800W-Portabl) -- **Cast Iron Pan**: [Lodge Griddle Pre-seasoned](https://www.amazon.com/Lodge-Griddle-Pre-seasoned) -- **Stainless Steel Plate Adapter**: [9.45-inch Diffuser](https://www.amazon.com/9-45inch-Diffuser-Stainles) -- **Propane Torch**: [Bernzomatic](https://www.homedepot.com/p/Bernzomatic-WK2301-Pr) -- **Scrap Conduit**: 1-inch (2.54 cm) Inner Diameter +Amazon induction plate: amazon.com: amazon.com/AmazonBasics-1800W-Portabl... +Cast Iron Pan: amazon.com: amazon.com/Lodge-Griddle-Pre-seasoned... +or stainless steel plate adapter: amazon.com: amazon.com/9-45inch-Diffuser-Stainles... +Propane torch: homedepot.com: homedepot.com/p/Bernzomatic-WK2301-Pr... +Scrap conduit (1" Inner diameter) -### Plastic Materials +Plastic Materials: +Milk jugs +construction hard hats +bottle caps. -- Milk jugs -- Construction hard hats -- Bottle caps +Safety tools: +3M respirator +Safety glasses +Silicon Gloves: amazon.com: amazon.com/Gorilla-Grip-Silicone-Prof... +Wood for bench: -### Safety Equipment - -- 3M Respirator -- Safety Glasses -- Silicone Gloves: [Gorilla Grip](https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Grip-Silicone-Prof) - -### Wood for Bench - -- Laminated pallet wood for legs -- Half-lapped pallet wood for the backrest -- 3/4 inch (1.9 cm) pallet plywood +Laminated pallet wood for the legs +half lapped pallet wood for the backrest +3/4" pallet plywood ### Step 2: Cut up or shred the HDPE -I am beginning to work with HDPE and currently use scissors and power tools for cutting. I am considering purchasing an inexpensive blender to create smaller plastic pieces. +I'm just getting started in recycling HDPE so I'm manually cutting up plastic with a scissors and some power tools. I think I may buy a cheap blender to shred the plastic into smaller pieces. ### Step 3: Melt HDPE -Melt the plastic using a magnetic pan on an induction cooktop. Set the temperature to 200°C (400°F) for efficient melting. +Melt the plastic using a ferrous/magnetic pan on an induction top. I set my temperature to 400 degrees F and it seems to melt quickly. -I also used a steel cylinder heated on the induction plate to aid in rolling the plastic into a sheet. +I had a scrap cylinder of steel which I was also able to heat up on the induction plate and it helped with rolling out the plastic into a sheet. -Refer to the video at the 3:00 mark for the plastic melting process. +See the video link here at ~3:00 mark where I start melting plastic. ### Step 4: CAST HDPE -I heated a conduit/steel pipe (1" interior diameter [2.54 cm]) by placing it on a hot metal surface. Then, I gradually added melted HDPE into the pipe. A spare bolt helped push more plastic in, reheating the pipe as needed to maintain warmth. +I heated up a conduit/steel pipe (1" interior diameter) placed it on a hot piece of metal, then I slowly added the melted HDPE into the pipe. I used a spare bolt to shove more plastic in and would heat up the pipe if I thought it cooled to much. -Once filled, I used a clamp and 1" (2.54 cm) diameter plywood to achieve high compression in the pipe, aiming for maximum HDPE density. +After filling the pipe, I use a clamp and some 1" diameter plywood in the conduit to really get high compression in the conduit. I'm trying to keep the density of this HDPE as high as possible. -As the HDPE shrinks while cooling, I tightened the clamps accordingly. +After clamping, the HDPE will tend to shrink so I'll tighten the clamps as the plastic & pipe cools. -Frequent addition of smaller HDPE pieces with regular compression yielded the best results, though my technique is still a work in progress. +Adding smaller pieces and compressing down frequently seem to get the best results but I haven't mastered this process yet. ### Step 5: Cut, Drill, & Tap the HDPE -### Tutorial: Preparing and Assembling HDPE Components +After the HDPE cools inside the conduit/pipe, I found it to be easy to remove the casted plastic. I ended up cutting into 1" long cylinder with a handsaw then cut the cylinder in half. -1. **Removal and Cutting**: Once the HDPE solidifies inside the conduit or pipe, it can be easily removed. Cut it into 1-inch (2.54 cm) long cylinders using a handsaw, then halve each cylinder. +I drilled a hole into the center, and tapped the hole using a 3/8" x 16 N.C. tap and followed the tap with the actual bolt I used. -2. **Drilling and Tapping**: Drill a hole at the center of each half-cylinder. Use a 3/8-inch x 16 N.C. tap for threading, followed by inserting the appropriate bolt. +To make the bolt easier to enter the hole, I also used a countersink at the bolt entrance holes. -3. **Countersinking**: Apply a countersink to the bolt entrance for smoother insertion. - -4. **Thread Durability**: The threads proved to be durable, even able to withstand use with an impact driver without stripping. Bolts with nuts were also added for further stability. The impact of temperature changes on this setup will be monitored. +One of the surprising discoveries to me was how strong the thread held. Even using my impact driver, I didn't seem to strip the thread. I also installed some bolts adding a nut on the flat side of the Threaded Beaver and I'll check the differences as the temperature changes. ![IMG_0763.JPG](./IMG_0763.JPG) @@ -86,11 +81,11 @@ Frequent addition of smaller HDPE pieces with regular compression yielded the be ### Step 6: Use the Threaded Beavers -During the prototype phase, I estimated the position for the threaded component and created a 1-inch (2.54 cm) diameter mortise in the stretcher using a forstener bit. I then used a 7/16-inch (1.11 cm) drill bit to penetrate the end grain at the center of the stretcher. +Since I was in prototype mode, I measured roughly where the threaded beaver was going to go and used a 1" forstener bit to make a 1" diameter mortise into the stretcher piece of wood. Using a 7/16" longer drill bit, I drilled into the end grain roughly in the center of the stretcher. -For connecting the 2x lumber to the stretcher, I countersunk a hole for the hex head bolt and washer to fit neatly. Although optional, this detail enhances the bench's appearance. +For 2x wood getting connected to the stretcher piece of wood, I countersunk a hole for the hex head bolt and washer to sit nicely in. This is not necessary but I thought it make this bench look a little bit higher end. -The bench structure served as the basic framework, onto which I added plywood for the seat and backrest. +This bench structure I made was really just the bones of my bench, I cut some plywood for the seat and back rest which covers the structure. ![IMG_1023.JPG](./IMG_1023.JPG) @@ -100,60 +95,9 @@ The bench structure served as the basic framework, onto which I added plywood fo ### Step 7: Help me! -I welcome any suggestions and comments as I begin working with HDPE. My focus is on using affordable and readily available tools, such as an induction cooktop, to process this material. +Please give me suggestions and comments as I'm just starting to build with recycled HDPE. I'd like to focus on using cheap or readily available tools like an induction top to process the material. + +Thank you for reading and I hope that you can learn something from my current process. ## Resources -Here's the extracted tool/material list structured by category: - -### Tools - -- ~~[Amazon Basics 1800W Induction Plate](https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-1800W-Portabl)~~ -- ~~[Lodge Griddle Cast Iron Pan](https://www.amazon.com/Lodge-Griddle-Pre-seasoned)~~ -- ~~[9.45-inch Steel Plate Adapter](https://www.amazon.com/9-45inch-Diffuser-Stainles)~~ -- ~~[Bernzomatic Propane Torch](https://www.homedepot.com/p/Bernzomatic-WK2301-Pr)~~ -- 1" inner diameter scrap steel pipe/conduit - -### Plastic Materials - -- Recycled HDPE sources:\ - Milk jugs\ - Construction hard hats\ - Plastic bottle caps -- (Considered: Inexpensive shredder/blender) - -### Safety Equipment - -- ~~[Gorilla Grip Silicone Gloves](https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Grip-Silicone-Prof)~~ -- 3M Respirator -- Safety glasses - -### Wood Materials - -- Pallet wood (laminated for legs) -- Half-lapped pallet slats (backrest) -- 3/4" pallet plywood (seat/base) - -### Hardware Components - -- 3/8" x 16 N.C. tap & drill bit -- 7/16" drill bit (for stretcher) -- 1" Forstner bit (mortises) -- Hex head bolts with nuts/washers -- Spare bolt (plastic compression tool) - -All temperatures (200°C/400°F) refer to induction cooktop settings[1][2][3]. -## References -## Articles - -- [Understanding the HDPE Pipe Extrusion Process](https://sinopipefactory.com/blog/understanding-the-hdpe-pipe-extrusion-process-a-comprehensive-guide/) -- [Threaded Inserts Enable Assembly of Plastic Furniture](https://www.assemblymag.com/articles/98171-threaded-inserts-enable-assembly-of-plastic-furniture) -- [Everything You Need to Know About HDPE Plastic Injection Molding](https://pom-material.com/blog/hdpe-plastic-injection-molding/) - -## YouTube - -- [DIY Induction heater module + Theory](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EujaZ_mNt7g) -- [How To Make A Reusable HDPE Epoxy Resin Table Mold](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J_0ekhH4UwU) - -## Opensource Designs - -- [Plastic Smithing: How to Make Your Own HDPE Plastic Anything](https://www.instructables.com/HomemadePlastic/) \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/hdpe-dowel-nuts-for-break-down-furniture/config.json b/howtos/hdpe-dowel-nuts-for-break-down-furniture/config.json index 5624a4448..5a4df97fc 100644 --- a/howtos/hdpe-dowel-nuts-for-break-down-furniture/config.json +++ b/howtos/hdpe-dowel-nuts-for-break-down-furniture/config.json @@ -41,17 +41,17 @@ "_animationKey": "unique1", "images": [], "videoUrl": "https://youtu.be/AU2yiBG_CDw", - "text": "### Tools for Melting Plastic\n\n- **Induction Plate**: [Amazon Basics 1800W Portable](https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-1800W-Portabl)\n- **Cast Iron Pan**: [Lodge Griddle Pre-seasoned](https://www.amazon.com/Lodge-Griddle-Pre-seasoned)\n- **Stainless Steel Plate Adapter**: [9.45-inch Diffuser](https://www.amazon.com/9-45inch-Diffuser-Stainles)\n- **Propane Torch**: [Bernzomatic](https://www.homedepot.com/p/Bernzomatic-WK2301-Pr)\n- **Scrap Conduit**: 1-inch (2.54 cm) Inner Diameter\n\n### Plastic Materials\n\n- Milk jugs\n- Construction hard hats\n- Bottle caps\n\n### Safety Equipment\n\n- 3M Respirator\n- Safety Glasses\n- Silicone Gloves: [Gorilla Grip](https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Grip-Silicone-Prof)\n\n### Wood for Bench\n\n- Laminated pallet wood for legs\n- Half-lapped pallet wood for the backrest\n- 3/4 inch (1.9 cm) pallet plywood" + "text": "Tools to melt plastic:\n\nAmazon induction plate: amazon.com: amazon.com/AmazonBasics-1800W-Portabl...\nCast Iron Pan: amazon.com: amazon.com/Lodge-Griddle-Pre-seasoned...\nor stainless steel plate adapter: amazon.com: amazon.com/9-45inch-Diffuser-Stainles...\nPropane torch: homedepot.com: homedepot.com/p/Bernzomatic-WK2301-Pr...\nScrap conduit (1\" Inner diameter)\n\nPlastic Materials:\nMilk jugs\nconstruction hard hats\nbottle caps.\n\nSafety tools:\n3M respirator\nSafety glasses\nSilicon Gloves: amazon.com: amazon.com/Gorilla-Grip-Silicone-Prof...\nWood for bench:\n\nLaminated pallet wood for the legs\nhalf lapped pallet wood for the backrest\n3/4\" pallet plywood" }, { "_animationKey": "unique2", - "text": "I am beginning to work with HDPE and currently use scissors and power tools for cutting. I am considering purchasing an inexpensive blender to create smaller plastic pieces.", + "text": "I'm just getting started in recycling HDPE so I'm manually cutting up plastic with a scissors and some power tools. I think I may buy a cheap blender to shred the plastic into smaller pieces.", "title": "Cut up or shred the HDPE", "videoUrl": "https://youtu.be/AU2yiBG_CDw?t=152", "images": [] }, { - "text": "Melt the plastic using a magnetic pan on an induction cooktop. Set the temperature to 200°C (400°F) for efficient melting.\n\nI also used a steel cylinder heated on the induction plate to aid in rolling the plastic into a sheet.\n\nRefer to the video at the 3:00 mark for the plastic melting process.", + "text": "Melt the plastic using a ferrous/magnetic pan on an induction top. I set my temperature to 400 degrees F and it seems to melt quickly.\n\nI had a scrap cylinder of steel which I was also able to heat up on the induction plate and it helped with rolling out the plastic into a sheet.\n\nSee the video link here at ~3:00 mark where I start melting plastic.", "images": [], "title": "Melt HDPE ", "_animationKey": "unique3", @@ -59,7 +59,7 @@ }, { "videoUrl": "https://youtu.be/AU2yiBG_CDw?t=208", - "text": "I heated a conduit/steel pipe (1\" interior diameter [2.54 cm]) by placing it on a hot metal surface. Then, I gradually added melted HDPE into the pipe. A spare bolt helped push more plastic in, reheating the pipe as needed to maintain warmth.\n\nOnce filled, I used a clamp and 1\" (2.54 cm) diameter plywood to achieve high compression in the pipe, aiming for maximum HDPE density.\n\nAs the HDPE shrinks while cooling, I tightened the clamps accordingly.\n\nFrequent addition of smaller HDPE pieces with regular compression yielded the best results, though my technique is still a work in progress.", + "text": "I heated up a conduit/steel pipe (1\" interior diameter) placed it on a hot piece of metal, then I slowly added the melted HDPE into the pipe. I used a spare bolt to shove more plastic in and would heat up the pipe if I thought it cooled to much.\n\nAfter filling the pipe, I use a clamp and some 1\" diameter plywood in the conduit to really get high compression in the conduit. I'm trying to keep the density of this HDPE as high as possible.\n\nAfter clamping, the HDPE will tend to shrink so I'll tighten the clamps as the plastic & pipe cools.\n\nAdding smaller pieces and compressing down frequently seem to get the best results but I haven't mastered this process yet.", "title": "CAST HDPE", "_animationKey": "unique2xz6wi", "images": [] @@ -105,7 +105,7 @@ "alt": "IMG_0761.JPG" } ], - "text": "### Tutorial: Preparing and Assembling HDPE Components\n\n1. **Removal and Cutting**: Once the HDPE solidifies inside the conduit or pipe, it can be easily removed. Cut it into 1-inch (2.54 cm) long cylinders using a handsaw, then halve each cylinder.\n\n2. **Drilling and Tapping**: Drill a hole at the center of each half-cylinder. Use a 3/8-inch x 16 N.C. tap for threading, followed by inserting the appropriate bolt.\n\n3. **Countersinking**: Apply a countersink to the bolt entrance for smoother insertion.\n\n4. **Thread Durability**: The threads proved to be durable, even able to withstand use with an impact driver without stripping. Bolts with nuts were also added for further stability. The impact of temperature changes on this setup will be monitored." + "text": "After the HDPE cools inside the conduit/pipe, I found it to be easy to remove the casted plastic. I ended up cutting into 1\" long cylinder with a handsaw then cut the cylinder in half.\n\nI drilled a hole into the center, and tapped the hole using a 3/8\" x 16 N.C. tap and followed the tap with the actual bolt I used.\n\nTo make the bolt easier to enter the hole, I also used a countersink at the bolt entrance holes.\n\nOne of the surprising discoveries to me was how strong the thread held. Even using my impact driver, I didn't seem to strip the thread. I also installed some bolts adding a nut on the flat side of the Threaded Beaver and I'll check the differences as the temperature changes." }, { "_animationKey": "uniquetvcesa", @@ -136,18 +136,18 @@ "alt": "Threaded beaver insert.JPG" } ], - "text": "During the prototype phase, I estimated the position for the threaded component and created a 1-inch (2.54 cm) diameter mortise in the stretcher using a forstener bit. I then used a 7/16-inch (1.11 cm) drill bit to penetrate the end grain at the center of the stretcher.\n\nFor connecting the 2x lumber to the stretcher, I countersunk a hole for the hex head bolt and washer to fit neatly. Although optional, this detail enhances the bench's appearance.\n\nThe bench structure served as the basic framework, onto which I added plywood for the seat and backrest." + "text": "Since I was in prototype mode, I measured roughly where the threaded beaver was going to go and used a 1\" forstener bit to make a 1\" diameter mortise into the stretcher piece of wood. Using a 7/16\" longer drill bit, I drilled into the end grain roughly in the center of the stretcher.\n\nFor 2x wood getting connected to the stretcher piece of wood, I countersunk a hole for the hex head bolt and washer to sit nicely in. This is not necessary but I thought it make this bench look a little bit higher end.\n\nThis bench structure I made was really just the bones of my bench, I cut some plywood for the seat and back rest which covers the structure." }, { "_animationKey": "uniqued2hjwc", "title": "Help me!", "videoUrl": "https://youtu.be/AU2yiBG_CDw", "images": [], - "text": "I welcome any suggestions and comments as I begin working with HDPE. My focus is on using affordable and readily available tools, such as an induction cooktop, to process this material." + "text": "Please give me suggestions and comments as I'm just starting to build with recycled HDPE. I'd like to focus on using cheap or readily available tools like an induction top to process the material. \n\nThank you for reading and I hope that you can learn something from my current process." } ], "_modified": "2023-12-17T14:51:52.825Z", - "description": "I use an induction stovetop to heat a steel pipe to cast HDPE plastic for threaded inserts. I often make furniture from pallet wood, and dowel nuts are useful for creating knock-down joints. They are not available in sizes larger than 1/2 inch (13 mm) in diameter.", + "description": "I use an induction stovetop to heat up a steel pipe and cast HDPE plastic to make threaded inserts (the Threaded Beavers). I enjoy making furniture out of pallet wood and dowel nuts are helpful to help create knock down joints. They don't make them larger than 1/2\" in diameter.", "moderation": "accepted", "_contentModifiedTimestamp": "2023-06-14T11:02:18.726Z", "_id": "n95aUNMEi103EFQYYraN", @@ -155,9 +155,5 @@ "category": { "label": "uncategorized" }, - "content": "I use an induction stovetop to heat a steel pipe to cast HDPE plastic for threaded inserts. I often make furniture from pallet wood, and dowel nuts are useful for creating knock-down joints. They are not available in sizes larger than 1/2 inch (13 mm) in diameter.\n\n### Tools for Melting Plastic\n\n- **Induction Plate**: ~~[Amazon Basics 1800W Portable](https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-1800W-Portabl)~~\n- **Cast Iron Pan**: ~~[Lodge Griddle Pre-seasoned](https://www.amazon.com/Lodge-Griddle-Pre-seasoned)~~\n- **Stainless Steel Plate Adapter**: ~~[9.45-inch Diffuser](https://www.amazon.com/9-45inch-Diffuser-Stainles)~~\n- **Propane Torch**: ~~[Bernzomatic](https://www.homedepot.com/p/Bernzomatic-WK2301-Pr)~~\n- **Scrap Conduit**: 1-inch (2.54 cm) Inner Diameter\n\n### Plastic Materials\n\n- Milk jugs\n- Construction hard hats\n- Bottle caps\n\n### Safety Equipment\n\n- 3M Respirator\n- Safety Glasses\n- Silicone Gloves: ~~[Gorilla Grip](https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Grip-Silicone-Prof)~~\n\n### Wood for Bench\n\n- Laminated pallet wood for legs\n- Half-lapped pallet wood for the backrest\n- 3/4 inch (1.9 cm) pallet plywood\n\nI am beginning to work with HDPE and currently use scissors and power tools for cutting. I am considering purchasing an inexpensive blender to create smaller plastic pieces.\n\nMelt the plastic using a magnetic pan on an induction cooktop. Set the temperature to 200°C (400°F) for efficient melting.\n\nI also used a steel cylinder heated on the induction plate to aid in rolling the plastic into a sheet.\n\nRefer to the video at the 3:00 mark for the plastic melting process.\n\nI heated a conduit/steel pipe (1\" interior diameter [2.54 cm]) by placing it on a hot metal surface. Then, I gradually added melted HDPE into the pipe. A spare bolt helped push more plastic in, reheating the pipe as needed to maintain warmth.\n\nOnce filled, I used a clamp and 1\" (2.54 cm) diameter plywood to achieve high compression in the pipe, aiming for maximum HDPE density.\n\nAs the HDPE shrinks while cooling, I tightened the clamps accordingly.\n\nFrequent addition of smaller HDPE pieces with regular compression yielded the best results, though my technique is still a work in progress.\n\n### Tutorial: Preparing and Assembling HDPE Components\n\n1. **Removal and Cutting**: Once the HDPE solidifies inside the conduit or pipe, it can be easily removed. Cut it into 1-inch (2.54 cm) long cylinders using a handsaw, then halve each cylinder.\n\n2. **Drilling and Tapping**: Drill a hole at the center of each half-cylinder. Use a 3/8-inch x 16 N.C. tap for threading, followed by inserting the appropriate bolt.\n\n3. **Countersinking**: Apply a countersink to the bolt entrance for smoother insertion.\n\n4. **Thread Durability**: The threads proved to be durable, even able to withstand use with an impact driver without stripping. Bolts with nuts were also added for further stability. The impact of temperature changes on this setup will be monitored.\n\nDuring the prototype phase, I estimated the position for the threaded component and created a 1-inch (2.54 cm) diameter mortise in the stretcher using a forstener bit. I then used a 7/16-inch (1.11 cm) drill bit to penetrate the end grain at the center of the stretcher.\n\nFor connecting the 2x lumber to the stretcher, I countersunk a hole for the hex head bolt and washer to fit neatly. Although optional, this detail enhances the bench's appearance.\n\nThe bench structure served as the basic framework, onto which I added plywood for the seat and backrest.\n\nI welcome any suggestions and comments as I begin working with HDPE. My focus is on using affordable and readily available tools, such as an induction cooktop, to process this material.", - "keywords": "induction stovetop, HDPE plastic casting, threaded inserts, pallet wood furniture, dowel nuts, knock-down joints, melting plastic process, safety equipment for plastic melting, HDPE components tutorial, affordable plastic processing tools", - "resources": "Here's the extracted tool/material list structured by category:\n\n### Tools\n\n- ~~[Amazon Basics 1800W Induction Plate](https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-1800W-Portabl)~~\n- ~~[Lodge Griddle Cast Iron Pan](https://www.amazon.com/Lodge-Griddle-Pre-seasoned)~~\n- ~~[9.45-inch Steel Plate Adapter](https://www.amazon.com/9-45inch-Diffuser-Stainles)~~\n- ~~[Bernzomatic Propane Torch](https://www.homedepot.com/p/Bernzomatic-WK2301-Pr)~~\n- 1\" inner diameter scrap steel pipe/conduit\n\n### Plastic Materials\n\n- Recycled HDPE sources:\\\n Milk jugs\\\n Construction hard hats\\\n Plastic bottle caps\n- (Considered: Inexpensive shredder/blender)\n\n### Safety Equipment\n\n- ~~[Gorilla Grip Silicone Gloves](https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Grip-Silicone-Prof)~~\n- 3M Respirator\n- Safety glasses\n\n### Wood Materials\n\n- Pallet wood (laminated for legs)\n- Half-lapped pallet slats (backrest)\n- 3/4\" pallet plywood (seat/base)\n\n### Hardware Components\n\n- 3/8\" x 16 N.C. tap & drill bit\n- 7/16\" drill bit (for stretcher)\n- 1\" Forstner bit (mortises)\n- Hex head bolts with nuts/washers\n- Spare bolt (plastic compression tool)\n\nAll temperatures (200°C/400°F) refer to induction cooktop settings[1][2][3].", - "references": "## Articles\n\n- [Understanding the HDPE Pipe Extrusion Process](https://sinopipefactory.com/blog/understanding-the-hdpe-pipe-extrusion-process-a-comprehensive-guide/)\n- [Threaded Inserts Enable Assembly of Plastic Furniture](https://www.assemblymag.com/articles/98171-threaded-inserts-enable-assembly-of-plastic-furniture)\n- [Everything You Need to Know About HDPE Plastic Injection Molding](https://pom-material.com/blog/hdpe-plastic-injection-molding/)\n\n## YouTube\n\n- [DIY Induction heater module + Theory](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EujaZ_mNt7g)\n- [How To Make A Reusable HDPE Epoxy Resin Table Mold](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J_0ekhH4UwU)\n\n## Opensource Designs\n\n- [Plastic Smithing: How to Make Your Own HDPE Plastic Anything](https://www.instructables.com/HomemadePlastic/)", - "brief": "Create knock-down furniture joints using HDPE plastic and pallet wood efficiently with an induction stovetop. Explore tools to craft durable threaded inserts." + "content": "I use an induction stovetop to heat up a steel pipe and cast HDPE plastic to make threaded inserts (the Threaded Beavers). I enjoy making furniture out of pallet wood and dowel nuts are helpful to help create knock down joints. They don't make them larger than 1/2\" in diameter.\n\nTools to melt plastic:\n\nAmazon induction plate: amazon.com: amazon.com/AmazonBasics-1800W-Portabl...\nCast Iron Pan: amazon.com: amazon.com/Lodge-Griddle-Pre-seasoned...\nor stainless steel plate adapter: amazon.com: amazon.com/9-45inch-Diffuser-Stainles...\nPropane torch: homedepot.com: homedepot.com/p/Bernzomatic-WK2301-Pr...\nScrap conduit (1\" Inner diameter)\n\nPlastic Materials:\nMilk jugs\nconstruction hard hats\nbottle caps.\n\nSafety tools:\n3M respirator\nSafety glasses\nSilicon Gloves: amazon.com: amazon.com/Gorilla-Grip-Silicone-Prof...\nWood for bench:\n\nLaminated pallet wood for the legs\nhalf lapped pallet wood for the backrest\n3/4\" pallet plywood\n\nI'm just getting started in recycling HDPE so I'm manually cutting up plastic with a scissors and some power tools. I think I may buy a cheap blender to shred the plastic into smaller pieces.\n\nMelt the plastic using a ferrous/magnetic pan on an induction top. I set my temperature to 400 degrees F and it seems to melt quickly.\n\nI had a scrap cylinder of steel which I was also able to heat up on the induction plate and it helped with rolling out the plastic into a sheet.\n\nSee the video link here at ~3:00 mark where I start melting plastic.\n\nI heated up a conduit/steel pipe (1\" interior diameter) placed it on a hot piece of metal, then I slowly added the melted HDPE into the pipe. I used a spare bolt to shove more plastic in and would heat up the pipe if I thought it cooled to much.\n\nAfter filling the pipe, I use a clamp and some 1\" diameter plywood in the conduit to really get high compression in the conduit. I'm trying to keep the density of this HDPE as high as possible.\n\nAfter clamping, the HDPE will tend to shrink so I'll tighten the clamps as the plastic & pipe cools.\n\nAdding smaller pieces and compressing down frequently seem to get the best results but I haven't mastered this process yet.\n\nAfter the HDPE cools inside the conduit/pipe, I found it to be easy to remove the casted plastic. I ended up cutting into 1\" long cylinder with a handsaw then cut the cylinder in half.\n\nI drilled a hole into the center, and tapped the hole using a 3/8\" x 16 N.C. tap and followed the tap with the actual bolt I used.\n\nTo make the bolt easier to enter the hole, I also used a countersink at the bolt entrance holes.\n\nOne of the surprising discoveries to me was how strong the thread held. Even using my impact driver, I didn't seem to strip the thread. I also installed some bolts adding a nut on the flat side of the Threaded Beaver and I'll check the differences as the temperature changes.\n\nSince I was in prototype mode, I measured roughly where the threaded beaver was going to go and used a 1\" forstener bit to make a 1\" diameter mortise into the stretcher piece of wood. Using a 7/16\" longer drill bit, I drilled into the end grain roughly in the center of the stretcher.\n\nFor 2x wood getting connected to the stretcher piece of wood, I countersunk a hole for the hex head bolt and washer to sit nicely in. This is not necessary but I thought it make this bench look a little bit higher end.\n\nThis bench structure I made was really just the bones of my bench, I cut some plywood for the seat and back rest which covers the structure.\n\nPlease give me suggestions and comments as I'm just starting to build with recycled HDPE. I'd like to focus on using cheap or readily available tools like an induction top to process the material. \n\nThank you for reading and I hope that you can learn something from my current process." } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/heat-shield-for-injection-and-extrusion-machines/README.md b/howtos/heat-shield-for-injection-and-extrusion-machines/README.md index b5c3b2181..6097ee860 100644 --- a/howtos/heat-shield-for-injection-and-extrusion-machines/README.md +++ b/howtos/heat-shield-for-injection-and-extrusion-machines/README.md @@ -1,78 +1,29 @@ --- title: Heat Shield for Injection and Extrusion Machines slug: heat-shield-for-injection-and-extrusion-machines -description: # Enhance Safety and Appearance of Injection and Extrusion Machines - -Learn how to improve both the safety features and visual appeal of your injection and extrusion machines. This guide provides practical steps to ensure your equipment is both secure and visually appealing. +description: Increase the safety and appearance of your injection and extrusion machine tags: ["extrusion","injection"] category: Guides difficulty: Medium time: < 5 hours -keywords: Safety features, injection machines, extrusion machines, visual appeal, stainless steel tubing, muffler insulation, heater bands, M6 bolts, Philippines, equipment enhancement +keywords: location: Antipolo, Philippines (the) --- # Heat Shield for Injection and Extrusion Machines ![Heat Shield for Injection and Extrusion Machines](20201124_1502341.jpg) -# Enhance Safety and Appearance of Injection and Extrusion Machines - -Learn how to improve both the safety features and visual appeal of your injection and extrusion machines. This guide provides practical steps to ensure your equipment is both secure and visually appealing. +Increase the safety and appearance of your injection and extrusion machine User Location: Antipolo, Philippines (the) ## Steps ### Step 1: Build your heat shield -The YouTube video provides clarity on machine measurements, which can vary; these are not specified here. +The YouTube video shows it better. As everyone's machines are different measurements, this is not included here, but should be self explanatory in the video. -We utilized 4-inch (10 cm) round stainless steel tubing. Square tubing is also suitable, provided it is long enough to encase the heater bands and insulation without direct contact. +We used round stainless steel tubing at 4 inch size. However you can also use square tube. As long as your tube is long enough to fit over the heater bands and insulation without direct contact. -We used 16 feet (5 meters) of muffler insulation. +For insulation we use 5 meters of muffler insulation. -The tubing was secured with M6 bolts, threading into the tubing. Alternative bolt sizes or machine screws are also acceptable. +We secured the tubing with m6 bolts and tapped the tubing. You can use other size bolt or even machine screws. ## Resources -### Hardware - -- 4-inch (10 cm) round/square stainless steel tubing -- 16 feet (5 meters) muffler insulation -- M6 bolts or machine screws - -### Tools - -- Drilling tools (for threading) -- Wrench set (for fastening bolts) - -### Software - -- Not specified in the tutorial - -### References - -- ~~[YouTube video on machine measurements](#)~~ -## References -## References - -### Articles - -- [Fundamentals of Plasticizing Screw Extrusion - Addcomposite](https://www.addcomposites.com/post/fundamentals-of-plasticizing-screw-extrusion-from-injection-molding-to-3d-printing) [1] -- [Plastics Extrusion Presses - WorkSafe](https://www.worksafe.govt.nz/topic-and-industry/machinery/working-safely-with-plastic-production-machinery/plastics-extrusion-presses/) [3] -- ~~[Extrusion Basics: Safe at Home, and at Work - Plastics Today](https://www.plasticstoday.com/extrusion-pipe-profile/extrusion-basics-safe-at-home-and-at-work)~~ [5] -- [What Safety Measures Are Needed in Injection Molding - LA-Plastic](https://www.la-plastic.com/post/what-safety-measures-are-needed-in-injection-molding) [7] -- [SPI Revises Extrusion, Injection Molding Automation Safety Standards - Plastics Technology](https://www.ptonline.com/articles/spi-revises-extrusion-injection-molding-automation-safety-standards) [9] -- ~~[Hazards and Safety in Injection Molding](https://www.geocities.ws/dfloyd2292/hazards.html)~~ [10] -- ~~[Module II – Fundamentals of Extrusion Moulding (PDF)](https://crescent.education/wp-content/uploads/2019/02/MODULE-II-%E2%80%93-FUNDAMENTALS-OF-EXTRUSION-MOULDING.pdf)~~ [11] -- [Essential Injection Molding Safety Standards - RJG, Inc.](https://rjginc.com/essential-injection-molding-safety-standards-and-practices/) [16] - -### Papers - -- [Open-Source 3-D Printable Autoinjector (PMC)](https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC10348544/) [12] -- ~~[Open-Source Autoinjector Design (PLOS ONE)](https://journals.plos.org/plosone/article?id=10.1371%2Fjournal.pone.0288696)~~ [13] -- [Open-Source Bioink and Food Melt Extrusion 3D Printer - JoVE](https://www.jove.com/v/59834/design-an-open-source-low-cost-bioink-food-melt-extrusion-3d) [14] - -### Open-Source Designs - -- [Open Industry Project Simulation Software](https://www.oldergeeks.com/downloads/search.php?limit=100\&string=Power+Software+Ltd.\&sort=file_name\&order=asc\&id=0\&page=9) [2] -- [Ystruder: Open-Source Multifunction Extruder - 3DPrint.com](https://3dprint.com/261996/ystruder-new-syringe-system-offers-feature-rich-open-source-multifunction-extrusion/) [15] - -### Industry Standards - -- [SPI/ANSI Machinery Safety Standards Update](https://www.ptonline.com/articles/spi-revises-extrusion-injection-molding-automation-safety-standards) [9] \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/heat-shield-for-injection-and-extrusion-machines/config.json b/howtos/heat-shield-for-injection-and-extrusion-machines/config.json index f0b74b6cd..304e14aa2 100644 --- a/howtos/heat-shield-for-injection-and-extrusion-machines/config.json +++ b/howtos/heat-shield-for-injection-and-extrusion-machines/config.json @@ -42,7 +42,7 @@ "videoUrl": "https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oas-fFnkzgA", "title": "Build your heat shield", "_animationKey": "unique1", - "text": "The YouTube video provides clarity on machine measurements, which can vary; these are not specified here.\n\nWe utilized 4-inch (10 cm) round stainless steel tubing. Square tubing is also suitable, provided it is long enough to encase the heater bands and insulation without direct contact.\n\nWe used 16 feet (5 meters) of muffler insulation.\n\nThe tubing was secured with M6 bolts, threading into the tubing. Alternative bolt sizes or machine screws are also acceptable." + "text": "The YouTube video shows it better. As everyone's machines are different measurements, this is not included here, but should be self explanatory in the video.\n\nWe used round stainless steel tubing at 4 inch size. However you can also use square tube. As long as your tube is long enough to fit over the heater bands and insulation without direct contact. \n\nFor insulation we use 5 meters of muffler insulation.\n\nWe secured the tubing with m6 bolts and tapped the tubing. You can use other size bolt or even machine screws." } ], "_contentModifiedTimestamp": "2023-06-14T11:02:21.429Z", @@ -51,7 +51,7 @@ "difficulty_level": "Medium", "total_views": 219, "comments": [], - "description": "# Enhance Safety and Appearance of Injection and Extrusion Machines\n\nLearn how to improve both the safety features and visual appeal of your injection and extrusion machines. This guide provides practical steps to ensure your equipment is both secure and visually appealing.", + "description": "Increase the safety and appearance of your injection and extrusion machine", "fileLink": "", "user": { "_modified": "2024-01-10T02:09:55.992Z", @@ -209,9 +209,5 @@ "urls": [] } }, - "content": "# Enhance Safety and Appearance of Injection and Extrusion Machines\n\nLearn how to improve both the safety features and visual appeal of your injection and extrusion machines. This guide provides practical steps to ensure your equipment is both secure and visually appealing.\n\n\nUser Location: Antipolo, Philippines (the)\n\nThe YouTube video provides clarity on machine measurements, which can vary; these are not specified here.\n\nWe utilized 4-inch (10 cm) round stainless steel tubing. Square tubing is also suitable, provided it is long enough to encase the heater bands and insulation without direct contact.\n\nWe used 16 feet (5 meters) of muffler insulation.\n\nThe tubing was secured with M6 bolts, threading into the tubing. Alternative bolt sizes or machine screws are also acceptable.", - "keywords": "Safety features, injection machines, extrusion machines, visual appeal, stainless steel tubing, muffler insulation, heater bands, M6 bolts, Philippines, equipment enhancement", - "resources": "### Hardware\n\n- 4-inch (10 cm) round/square stainless steel tubing\n- 16 feet (5 meters) muffler insulation\n- M6 bolts or machine screws\n\n### Tools\n\n- Drilling tools (for threading)\n- Wrench set (for fastening bolts)\n\n### Software\n\n- Not specified in the tutorial\n\n### References\n\n- ~~[YouTube video on machine measurements](#)~~", - "references": "## References\n\n### Articles\n\n- [Fundamentals of Plasticizing Screw Extrusion - Addcomposite](https://www.addcomposites.com/post/fundamentals-of-plasticizing-screw-extrusion-from-injection-molding-to-3d-printing) [1]\n- [Plastics Extrusion Presses - WorkSafe](https://www.worksafe.govt.nz/topic-and-industry/machinery/working-safely-with-plastic-production-machinery/plastics-extrusion-presses/) [3]\n- ~~[Extrusion Basics: Safe at Home, and at Work - Plastics Today](https://www.plasticstoday.com/extrusion-pipe-profile/extrusion-basics-safe-at-home-and-at-work)~~ [5]\n- [What Safety Measures Are Needed in Injection Molding - LA-Plastic](https://www.la-plastic.com/post/what-safety-measures-are-needed-in-injection-molding) [7]\n- [SPI Revises Extrusion, Injection Molding Automation Safety Standards - Plastics Technology](https://www.ptonline.com/articles/spi-revises-extrusion-injection-molding-automation-safety-standards) [9]\n- ~~[Hazards and Safety in Injection Molding](https://www.geocities.ws/dfloyd2292/hazards.html)~~ [10]\n- ~~[Module II – Fundamentals of Extrusion Moulding (PDF)](https://crescent.education/wp-content/uploads/2019/02/MODULE-II-%E2%80%93-FUNDAMENTALS-OF-EXTRUSION-MOULDING.pdf)~~ [11]\n- [Essential Injection Molding Safety Standards - RJG, Inc.](https://rjginc.com/essential-injection-molding-safety-standards-and-practices/) [16]\n\n### Papers\n\n- [Open-Source 3-D Printable Autoinjector (PMC)](https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC10348544/) [12]\n- ~~[Open-Source Autoinjector Design (PLOS ONE)](https://journals.plos.org/plosone/article?id=10.1371%2Fjournal.pone.0288696)~~ [13]\n- [Open-Source Bioink and Food Melt Extrusion 3D Printer - JoVE](https://www.jove.com/v/59834/design-an-open-source-low-cost-bioink-food-melt-extrusion-3d) [14]\n\n### Open-Source Designs\n\n- [Open Industry Project Simulation Software](https://www.oldergeeks.com/downloads/search.php?limit=100\\&string=Power+Software+Ltd.\\&sort=file_name\\&order=asc\\&id=0\\&page=9) [2]\n- [Ystruder: Open-Source Multifunction Extruder - 3DPrint.com](https://3dprint.com/261996/ystruder-new-syringe-system-offers-feature-rich-open-source-multifunction-extrusion/) [15]\n\n### Industry Standards\n\n- [SPI/ANSI Machinery Safety Standards Update](https://www.ptonline.com/articles/spi-revises-extrusion-injection-molding-automation-safety-standards) [9]", - "brief": "Improve safety and aesthetics of injection and extrusion machines with practical steps. Enhance equipment security and visual appeal with our comprehensive guide." + "content": "Increase the safety and appearance of your injection and extrusion machine\n\n\nUser Location: Antipolo, Philippines (the)\n\nThe YouTube video shows it better. As everyone's machines are different measurements, this is not included here, but should be self explanatory in the video.\n\nWe used round stainless steel tubing at 4 inch size. However you can also use square tube. As long as your tube is long enough to fit over the heater bands and insulation without direct contact. \n\nFor insulation we use 5 meters of muffler insulation.\n\nWe secured the tubing with m6 bolts and tapped the tubing. You can use other size bolt or even machine screws." } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/host-an-educational-carnival-game-booth/README.md b/howtos/host-an-educational-carnival-game-booth/README.md index 38c8b5489..f3a6e03b4 100644 --- a/howtos/host-an-educational-carnival-game-booth/README.md +++ b/howtos/host-an-educational-carnival-game-booth/README.md @@ -1,23 +1,23 @@ --- title: Host an Educational Carnival Game Booth slug: host-an-educational-carnival-game-booth -description: For many years, our organization has participated in local expos and fairs through a "Carnival Game Booth" concept instead of selling handcrafted items. Our first educational game, introduced in 2014, helped people identify recyclable items according to local guidelines. We utilized a ring-toss game and awarded crafts as prizes. +description: For many years, our charity organization has been taking part in local Expos, Events, and Faires using a "Carnival Game Booth" concept, rather than trying to SELL our handcrafted wares. Our first educational game was in 2014. It folks which items were recyclable, or not, in accordance with our local municipality's recycling system. We used a simple ring-toss and gave out our crafts as prizes! tags: ["untagged"] category: Guides difficulty: Easy time: < 1 day -keywords: Carnival Game Booth, Educational Games, Recyclable Items, Orlando Expos, Environmental Education, Plastics Recovery Process, Local Fairs, Community Engagement, Prize Trading, Event Booth Strategy +keywords: location: Orlando, United States of America (the) --- # Host an Educational Carnival Game Booth ![Host an Educational Carnival Game Booth](eco_carnival_1.jpg) -For many years, our organization has participated in local expos and fairs through a "Carnival Game Booth" concept instead of selling handcrafted items. Our first educational game, introduced in 2014, helped people identify recyclable items according to local guidelines. We utilized a ring-toss game and awarded crafts as prizes. +For many years, our charity organization has been taking part in local Expos, Events, and Faires using a "Carnival Game Booth" concept, rather than trying to SELL our handcrafted wares. Our first educational game was in 2014. It folks which items were recyclable, or not, in accordance with our local municipality's recycling system. We used a simple ring-toss and gave out our crafts as prizes! User Location: Orlando, United States of America (the) ## Steps ### Step 1: Create a Fun Recycling Ed Game -Create engaging carnival games that incorporate educational elements about the plastics recovery process. +Think of one or more safe fun carnival games and adapt the items and themes in the game to teach a little something about the plastics rescue or recycling process. ![municipal recycling training game.jpg](./municipal_recycling_training_game.jpg) @@ -27,9 +27,7 @@ Create engaging carnival games that incorporate educational elements about the p ### Step 2: Request an Event Booth -Certainly, here is the text revised in Markdown format: - -Rather than paying a high vendor booth fee and competing with other artisans at craft fairs or street markets, consider placing your Educational Ecology Game in the recreational, educational, environmental, or community section of a local expo, fair, or farmer's market. Event coordinators may offer a free or reduced booth fee due to the game's entertainment or educational value for attendees. Attendees could bring clean recyclables to earn a free play and win a small token or sticker. +Rather than pay a high "vendor" booth fee, and then try to compete with other artisans at selling your token-priced items at craft fairs or street markets; consider asking if your Educational Ecology Game can be in the recreational, educational, environmental, or community section of your local expo, fair, or farmer's market. Some event coordinators MIGHT offer you a free or reduced booth fee rate, simply because of the "entertainment" or "educational" value of your game for the event's visiting attendees. Attendees can be encouraged to bring their clean recyclables to the event, as an option for earning a "free play" and winning a tiny token-prize or sticker. ![Ring Tossing for a Prize.jpg](./Ring_Tossing_for_a_Prize.jpg) @@ -39,9 +37,12 @@ Rather than paying a high vendor booth fee and competing with other artisans at ### Step 3: Set Your Game-Play Price-Point -Donors or buyers who wish to participate beyond a small token or sticker may do so by paying or donating to play until they win. Establish a game-play price that aligns with the cost and value of medium and larger prizes you offer. Ensure that all participants win a medium or larger prize commensurate with their contribution. +Donors or Buyers who want to play for more than a tiny token or sticker can be given the option to pay/donate to play until they win. + Choose a game-play price-point that matches the cost and value of the medium and larger prizes you will provide. Make sure that EVERYONE who donates or pays to play your game wins a medium or larger-sized prize of appropriate value for what they paid or donated. -Set varying difficulty levels for a chance at premium prizes, or permit participants to trade multiple smaller prizes for one larger prize of equal cumulative value. +You can also set easier or harder targets; for the chance at winning premium prizes too. OR; you can allow folks to play again and then trade back in multiple smaller prizes - for one larger prize of the cumulative price/value - before they walk away from your game! + +Everyone is a winner! ![winner.jpg](./winner.jpg) @@ -50,56 +51,4 @@ Set varying difficulty levels for a chance at premium prizes, or permit particip ![eco carnival team.jpg](./eco_carnival_team.jpg) ## Resources -Here's an organized extraction of required elements from the tutorial, tailored for an Orlando-based educational carnival booth: - -### Tools - -- Ring-toss game stands (adaptable for recyclable item identification) -- Recyclable sorting bins ([Orlando Recycling Guidelines](https://www.orlando.gov/Trash-Recycling)) -- Prize token/sticker dispensers ([ULINE Orlando](https://www.uline.com)) -- Event signage templates (~~[Canva](https://www.canva.com)~~) -- Donation tracking sheets ([Google Sheets](https://docs.google.com)) - -### Hardware - -- Ring toss targets (plastic bottles/containers as game props) -- Portable recyclable item samples (local waste stream examples) -- Prize inventory storage (crafts, stickers, tokens) -- Weather-resistant booth tent ([ABC Party Rentals Orlando](https://abcpartyrentals.com)) -- Folding tables with display racks (~~[Home Depot Orlando](https://www.homedepot.com/l/Orlando)~~) - -### Software - -- Recycling education apps ([iRecycle](https://www.earth911.com/irecycle/)) -- Event registration system ([Eventbrite](https://www.eventbrite.com)) -- Mobile POS for donations ([Square](https://squareup.com)) -- Social media promo graphics tool ([Adobe Express](https://www.adobe.com/express)) -- Volunteer scheduling platform ([SignUpGenius](https://www.signupgenius.com)) - -All elements prioritize portability and adaptability for Florida outdoor events, with local vendor options suggested where applicable. -## References -## References - -### Articles - -- [The School Recycling Games](https://recyclingnearyou.com.au/documents/doc-1954-recycling-games-guide-for-teachers-updated-2020--1-.pdf) -- [Plastic – reuse, recycle or rubbish game](https://www.sciencelearn.org.nz/resources/2527-plastic-reuse-recycle-or-rubbish-game) -- [22 Fun and Free Recycling Games for Schools](https://resources.pepsicorecyclerally.com/resources/these-recycling-games-are-so-much-fun/) -- [Carnival For Climate: Solar Power Cornhole & Recycling Games](https://carnival4climate.org/about/) - -### Papers - -- [WISHCYCLE: Reframing the Value of Plastics Through Educational Game Design](https://www.idsa.org/wp-content/uploads/WishCycle.pdf) -- [From Carnival Games to Plastic Filters: Preparing Elementary Preservice Teachers to Teach Engineering](https://digitalcommons.odu.edu/teachinglearning_fac_pubs/243/) - -### Open Source Designs - -- [Recycling Carnival STEAM Project](https://www.teacherspayteachers.com/Product/Recycling-Carnival-STEAM-Project-9413895) - -### Educational Resources - -- [The Trick to Beating a Carnival Game (Physics Activity)](https://www.sciencebuddies.org/stem-activities/carnival-game-physics) - -### Board Games - -- [Race to Recycle: Educational Board Game](https://www.coraltrianglecenter.org/2019/06/30/new-board-game-start-beating-plastic-pollution-by-playing-race-to-recycle/) \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/host-an-educational-carnival-game-booth/config.json b/howtos/host-an-educational-carnival-game-booth/config.json index 5f3655151..8f65c5395 100644 --- a/howtos/host-an-educational-carnival-game-booth/config.json +++ b/howtos/host-an-educational-carnival-game-booth/config.json @@ -5,7 +5,7 @@ "untagged" ], "fileLink": "", - "description": "For many years, our organization has participated in local expos and fairs through a \"Carnival Game Booth\" concept instead of selling handcrafted items. Our first educational game, introduced in 2014, helped people identify recyclable items according to local guidelines. We utilized a ring-toss game and awarded crafts as prizes.", + "description": "For many years, our charity organization has been taking part in local Expos, Events, and Faires using a \"Carnival Game Booth\" concept, rather than trying to SELL our handcrafted wares. Our first educational game was in 2014. It folks which items were recyclable, or not, in accordance with our local municipality's recycling system. We used a simple ring-toss and gave out our crafts as prizes!", "_deleted": false, "_modified": "2023-10-10T04:48:30.462Z", "_id": "ceQsYIYPXM2uWhiRRfxM", @@ -32,7 +32,7 @@ "_created": "2021-05-05T17:04:14.430Z", "steps": [ { - "text": "Create engaging carnival games that incorporate educational elements about the plastics recovery process.", + "text": "Think of one or more safe fun carnival games and adapt the items and themes in the game to teach a little something about the plastics rescue or recycling process. ", "images": [ { "name": "municipal recycling training game.jpg", @@ -89,7 +89,7 @@ "alt": "ring a recyclable 2.jpg" } ], - "text": "Certainly, here is the text revised in Markdown format:\n\nRather than paying a high vendor booth fee and competing with other artisans at craft fairs or street markets, consider placing your Educational Ecology Game in the recreational, educational, environmental, or community section of a local expo, fair, or farmer's market. Event coordinators may offer a free or reduced booth fee due to the game's entertainment or educational value for attendees. Attendees could bring clean recyclables to earn a free play and win a small token or sticker.", + "text": "Rather than pay a high \"vendor\" booth fee, and then try to compete with other artisans at selling your token-priced items at craft fairs or street markets; consider asking if your Educational Ecology Game can be in the recreational, educational, environmental, or community section of your local expo, fair, or farmer's market. Some event coordinators MIGHT offer you a free or reduced booth fee rate, simply because of the \"entertainment\" or \"educational\" value of your game for the event's visiting attendees. Attendees can be encouraged to bring their clean recyclables to the event, as an option for earning a \"free play\" and winning a tiny token-prize or sticker.", "_animationKey": "unique2", "title": "Request an Event Booth" }, @@ -121,7 +121,7 @@ "alt": "eco carnival team.jpg" } ], - "text": "Donors or buyers who wish to participate beyond a small token or sticker may do so by paying or donating to play until they win. Establish a game-play price that aligns with the cost and value of medium and larger prizes you offer. Ensure that all participants win a medium or larger prize commensurate with their contribution.\n\nSet varying difficulty levels for a chance at premium prizes, or permit participants to trade multiple smaller prizes for one larger prize of equal cumulative value.", + "text": "Donors or Buyers who want to play for more than a tiny token or sticker can be given the option to pay/donate to play until they win. \n Choose a game-play price-point that matches the cost and value of the medium and larger prizes you will provide. Make sure that EVERYONE who donates or pays to play your game wins a medium or larger-sized prize of appropriate value for what they paid or donated. \n\nYou can also set easier or harder targets; for the chance at winning premium prizes too. OR; you can allow folks to play again and then trade back in multiple smaller prizes - for one larger prize of the cumulative price/value - before they walk away from your game!\n\nEveryone is a winner!", "_animationKey": "unique3" } ], @@ -310,9 +310,5 @@ "images": [] } }, - "content": "For many years, our organization has participated in local expos and fairs through a \"Carnival Game Booth\" concept instead of selling handcrafted items. Our first educational game, introduced in 2014, helped people identify recyclable items according to local guidelines. We utilized a ring-toss game and awarded crafts as prizes.\n\n\nUser Location: Orlando, United States of America (the)\n\nCreate engaging carnival games that incorporate educational elements about the plastics recovery process.\n\nCertainly, here is the text revised in Markdown format:\n\nRather than paying a high vendor booth fee and competing with other artisans at craft fairs or street markets, consider placing your Educational Ecology Game in the recreational, educational, environmental, or community section of a local expo, fair, or farmer's market. Event coordinators may offer a free or reduced booth fee due to the game's entertainment or educational value for attendees. Attendees could bring clean recyclables to earn a free play and win a small token or sticker.\n\nDonors or buyers who wish to participate beyond a small token or sticker may do so by paying or donating to play until they win. Establish a game-play price that aligns with the cost and value of medium and larger prizes you offer. Ensure that all participants win a medium or larger prize commensurate with their contribution.\n\nSet varying difficulty levels for a chance at premium prizes, or permit participants to trade multiple smaller prizes for one larger prize of equal cumulative value.", - "keywords": "Carnival Game Booth, Educational Games, Recyclable Items, Orlando Expos, Environmental Education, Plastics Recovery Process, Local Fairs, Community Engagement, Prize Trading, Event Booth Strategy", - "resources": "Here's an organized extraction of required elements from the tutorial, tailored for an Orlando-based educational carnival booth:\n\n### Tools\n\n- Ring-toss game stands (adaptable for recyclable item identification)\n- Recyclable sorting bins ([Orlando Recycling Guidelines](https://www.orlando.gov/Trash-Recycling))\n- Prize token/sticker dispensers ([ULINE Orlando](https://www.uline.com))\n- Event signage templates (~~[Canva](https://www.canva.com)~~)\n- Donation tracking sheets ([Google Sheets](https://docs.google.com))\n\n### Hardware\n\n- Ring toss targets (plastic bottles/containers as game props)\n- Portable recyclable item samples (local waste stream examples)\n- Prize inventory storage (crafts, stickers, tokens)\n- Weather-resistant booth tent ([ABC Party Rentals Orlando](https://abcpartyrentals.com))\n- Folding tables with display racks (~~[Home Depot Orlando](https://www.homedepot.com/l/Orlando)~~)\n\n### Software\n\n- Recycling education apps ([iRecycle](https://www.earth911.com/irecycle/))\n- Event registration system ([Eventbrite](https://www.eventbrite.com))\n- Mobile POS for donations ([Square](https://squareup.com))\n- Social media promo graphics tool ([Adobe Express](https://www.adobe.com/express))\n- Volunteer scheduling platform ([SignUpGenius](https://www.signupgenius.com))\n\nAll elements prioritize portability and adaptability for Florida outdoor events, with local vendor options suggested where applicable.", - "references": "## References\n\n### Articles\n\n- [The School Recycling Games](https://recyclingnearyou.com.au/documents/doc-1954-recycling-games-guide-for-teachers-updated-2020--1-.pdf)\n- [Plastic – reuse, recycle or rubbish game](https://www.sciencelearn.org.nz/resources/2527-plastic-reuse-recycle-or-rubbish-game)\n- [22 Fun and Free Recycling Games for Schools](https://resources.pepsicorecyclerally.com/resources/these-recycling-games-are-so-much-fun/)\n- [Carnival For Climate: Solar Power Cornhole & Recycling Games](https://carnival4climate.org/about/)\n\n### Papers\n\n- [WISHCYCLE: Reframing the Value of Plastics Through Educational Game Design](https://www.idsa.org/wp-content/uploads/WishCycle.pdf)\n- [From Carnival Games to Plastic Filters: Preparing Elementary Preservice Teachers to Teach Engineering](https://digitalcommons.odu.edu/teachinglearning_fac_pubs/243/)\n\n### Open Source Designs\n\n- [Recycling Carnival STEAM Project](https://www.teacherspayteachers.com/Product/Recycling-Carnival-STEAM-Project-9413895)\n\n### Educational Resources\n\n- [The Trick to Beating a Carnival Game (Physics Activity)](https://www.sciencebuddies.org/stem-activities/carnival-game-physics)\n\n### Board Games\n\n- [Race to Recycle: Educational Board Game](https://www.coraltrianglecenter.org/2019/06/30/new-board-game-start-beating-plastic-pollution-by-playing-race-to-recycle/)", - "brief": "Engage with eco-friendly carnival games at local expos and fairs, promoting recycling education through interactive fun. Join us for a sustainable experience!" + "content": "For many years, our charity organization has been taking part in local Expos, Events, and Faires using a \"Carnival Game Booth\" concept, rather than trying to SELL our handcrafted wares. Our first educational game was in 2014. It folks which items were recyclable, or not, in accordance with our local municipality's recycling system. We used a simple ring-toss and gave out our crafts as prizes!\n\n\nUser Location: Orlando, United States of America (the)\n\nThink of one or more safe fun carnival games and adapt the items and themes in the game to teach a little something about the plastics rescue or recycling process. \n\nRather than pay a high \"vendor\" booth fee, and then try to compete with other artisans at selling your token-priced items at craft fairs or street markets; consider asking if your Educational Ecology Game can be in the recreational, educational, environmental, or community section of your local expo, fair, or farmer's market. Some event coordinators MIGHT offer you a free or reduced booth fee rate, simply because of the \"entertainment\" or \"educational\" value of your game for the event's visiting attendees. Attendees can be encouraged to bring their clean recyclables to the event, as an option for earning a \"free play\" and winning a tiny token-prize or sticker.\n\nDonors or Buyers who want to play for more than a tiny token or sticker can be given the option to pay/donate to play until they win. \n Choose a game-play price-point that matches the cost and value of the medium and larger prizes you will provide. Make sure that EVERYONE who donates or pays to play your game wins a medium or larger-sized prize of appropriate value for what they paid or donated. \n\nYou can also set easier or harder targets; for the chance at winning premium prizes too. OR; you can allow folks to play again and then trade back in multiple smaller prizes - for one larger prize of the cumulative price/value - before they walk away from your game!\n\nEveryone is a winner!" } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/how-to-build-mini-press-/README.md b/howtos/how-to-build-mini-press-/README.md index c59240331..9838a6096 100644 --- a/howtos/how-to-build-mini-press-/README.md +++ b/howtos/how-to-build-mini-press-/README.md @@ -1,53 +1,43 @@ --- title: How to build mini press slug: how-to-build-mini-press- -description: ## Tutorial: Building a Mini Press for Compression Moulding - -To construct this straightforward machine, you will need the following equipment: - -- Welding machine -- Access to a laser cutting machine -- Drilling machine -- Basic assembly skills +description: Tutorial how to build mini press for compression moulding. +For making this simple machine you need welding machine, access to laser cutting machine, drilling machine and basic assembly skills. tags: ["starterkit","compression","sheetpress"] category: Machines difficulty: Medium time: 1-2 weeks -keywords: compression moulding, mini press tutorial, laser cutting machine, welding machine guide, mold construction, DIY compression moulding, CNC cutting sheets, open source blueprints, CAD files download, basic assembly skills +keywords: location: Liberec, Czechia --- # How to build mini press ![How to build mini press ](thumbnail_2.png) -## Tutorial: Building a Mini Press for Compression Moulding - -To construct this straightforward machine, you will need the following equipment: - -- Welding machine -- Access to a laser cutting machine -- Drilling machine -- Basic assembly skills +Tutorial how to build mini press for compression moulding. +For making this simple machine you need welding machine, access to laser cutting machine, drilling machine and basic assembly skills. User Location: Liberec, Czechia ## Steps ### Step 1: Video tutorial -### Instructions +All steps are mentioned in video tutorial. +Click the yellow download button above to go to the direct link to open source blueprints and CAD files. -All steps are detailed in the video tutorial. Click the yellow download button above to access the open source blueprints and CAD files. ### Step 2: What can you make with press? -This standard frame allows pressing sheets with an area of 14.6x14.6 inches (37x37 cm). +With this standard size frame it is possible to press sheets with area 37x37cm. -Maximum recommended mold height is 3.1 inches (80 mm). +Max. recommended mould height is 80mm + +I have already produced: + +- sheets 37x37cm, thickness 3, 5, 20mm +- coasters +- clock +- clipboard +- sheets which was latter used for CNC cutting - design of lamp, animal models. -I have produced: -- Sheets 14.6x14.6 inches (37x37 cm) with thicknesses of 0.1, 0.2, 0.8 inches (3, 5, 20 mm) -- Coasters -- Clocks -- Clipboards -- Sheets for CNC cutting for items like lamps and animal models. ![černé s oranžovými ručičkami.jpg](./cerne_s_oranzovymi_rucickami.jpg) @@ -60,9 +50,13 @@ I have produced: ### Step 3: Is it possible to buy it? Yes -Complete Machine: +Full machine: + + + +Laser cutted parts for pressing plates: + -Laser-cut parts for pressing plates: ![Snímek7.PNG](./Snimek7.PNG) @@ -75,14 +69,12 @@ Laser-cut parts for pressing plates: ### Step 4: More information -Certainly, here is the refined text: - ---- - -Next upgrades and tips for compression molding can be found on YouTube or Instagram: -[linktr.ee/plastmakers](https://linktr.ee/plastmakers). +Next upgrades and tips for compression moulding you can find on Youtube, or Instagram: +linktr.ee: linktr.ee/plastmakers +I hope it can help you with plastic recycling. +Tom ![IMG_20210206_223315.jpg](./IMG_20210206_223315.jpg) @@ -91,34 +83,4 @@ Next upgrades and tips for compression molding can be found on YouTube or Instag ![deska s klipem 3.jpg](./deska_s_klipem_3.jpg) ## Resources -### Tools - -- Welding machine -- Drilling machine - -### Software - -- CAD software (Open-source blueprints: [linktr.ee/plastmakers](https://linktr.ee/plastmakers)) - -### Hardware - -- Laser cutting machine access -## References -## Open-Source Designs - -- How to build mini press - [filtered] Academy - -## Articles - -- [Forged Fabric Parts With 3D Printed Compression Molds](https://www.instructables.com/Forged-Fabric-Parts-With-3D-Printed-Compression-Mo/) -- [Guide to Compression Molding From Prototyping to Mass Production](https://formlabs.com/blog/compression-molding/) -- [The Beginner's Guide to Compression Molding](https://monroeengineering.com/blog/the-beginners-guide-to-compression-molding/) - -## YouTube Videos - -- [Compression and Injection Compression Molding with Simulation](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=amH8BGj0MHg) -- [Compression Molding](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GqE93pbV_9I) - -## Papers - -- ~~[Compression Molding of Long Chopped Fiber Thermoplastics (Technical Paper)](https://www.toraytac.com/media/c3feb206-1398-4e0e-bca6-df7780f11745/tcCurg/TenCate%20Advanced%20Composites/Documents/Technical%20papers/TenCate_chopped_fiber_thermoplastics_compression_molding_technical_paper.pdf)~~ \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/how-to-build-mini-press-/config.json b/howtos/how-to-build-mini-press-/config.json index 950665a66..9107c0c50 100644 --- a/howtos/how-to-build-mini-press-/config.json +++ b/howtos/how-to-build-mini-press-/config.json @@ -26,7 +26,7 @@ "videoUrl": "https://youtu.be/AP7UJvYK6Bo", "_animationKey": "unique1", "title": "Video tutorial ", - "text": "### Instructions\n\nAll steps are detailed in the video tutorial. Click the yellow download button above to access the open source blueprints and CAD files.", + "text": "All steps are mentioned in video tutorial. \nClick the yellow download button above to go to the direct link to open source blueprints and CAD files.\n", "images": [] }, { @@ -70,7 +70,7 @@ } ], "title": "What can you make with press?", - "text": "This standard frame allows pressing sheets with an area of 14.6x14.6 inches (37x37 cm).\n\nMaximum recommended mold height is 3.1 inches (80 mm).\n\nI have produced:\n\n- Sheets 14.6x14.6 inches (37x37 cm) with thicknesses of 0.1, 0.2, 0.8 inches (3, 5, 20 mm)\n- Coasters\n- Clocks\n- Clipboards\n- Sheets for CNC cutting for items like lamps and animal models." + "text": "With this standard size frame it is possible to press sheets with area 37x37cm. \n\nMax. recommended mould height is 80mm\n\nI have already produced:\n\n- sheets 37x37cm, thickness 3, 5, 20mm \n- coasters\n- clock\n- clipboard\n- sheets which was latter used for CNC cutting - design of lamp, animal models. \n\n" }, { "images": [ @@ -113,7 +113,7 @@ ], "_animationKey": "unique3", "title": "Is it possible to buy it? Yes", - "text": "Complete Machine:\n\nLaser-cut parts for pressing plates:" + "text": "Full machine: \n\n\n\nLaser cutted parts for pressing plates: \n\n" }, { "_animationKey": "unique16s5vb", @@ -144,7 +144,7 @@ "alt": "deska s klipem 3.jpg" } ], - "text": "Certainly, here is the refined text:\n\n---\n\nNext upgrades and tips for compression molding can be found on YouTube or Instagram:\n[linktr.ee/plastmakers](https://linktr.ee/plastmakers).\n\n" + "text": "Next upgrades and tips for compression moulding you can find on Youtube, or Instagram:\nlinktr.ee: linktr.ee/plastmakers\n\nI hope it can help you with plastic recycling. \n\nTom" } ], "total_views": 611, @@ -168,7 +168,7 @@ "files": [], "moderation": "accepted", "fileLink": "https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1mnhn5dmxhTUJN2FP2GhcQiJN7mrv-iHk?usp=sharing", - "description": "## Tutorial: Building a Mini Press for Compression Moulding\n\nTo construct this straightforward machine, you will need the following equipment:\n\n- Welding machine\n- Access to a laser cutting machine\n- Drilling machine\n- Basic assembly skills", + "description": "Tutorial how to build mini press for compression moulding.\nFor making this simple machine you need welding machine, access to laser cutting machine, drilling machine and basic assembly skills. ", "tags": [ "starterkit", "compression", @@ -339,9 +339,5 @@ "images": [] } }, - "content": "## Tutorial: Building a Mini Press for Compression Moulding\n\nTo construct this straightforward machine, you will need the following equipment:\n\n- Welding machine\n- Access to a laser cutting machine\n- Drilling machine\n- Basic assembly skills\n\n\nUser Location: Liberec, Czechia\n\n### Instructions\n\nAll steps are detailed in the video tutorial. Click the yellow download button above to access the open source blueprints and CAD files.\n\nThis standard frame allows pressing sheets with an area of 14.6x14.6 inches (37x37 cm).\n\nMaximum recommended mold height is 3.1 inches (80 mm).\n\nI have produced:\n\n- Sheets 14.6x14.6 inches (37x37 cm) with thicknesses of 0.1, 0.2, 0.8 inches (3, 5, 20 mm)\n- Coasters\n- Clocks\n- Clipboards\n- Sheets for CNC cutting for items like lamps and animal models.\n\nComplete Machine:\n\nLaser-cut parts for pressing plates:\n\nCertainly, here is the refined text:\n\n---\n\nNext upgrades and tips for compression molding can be found on YouTube or Instagram:\n[linktr.ee/plastmakers](https://linktr.ee/plastmakers).\n\n", - "keywords": "compression moulding, mini press tutorial, laser cutting machine, welding machine guide, mold construction, DIY compression moulding, CNC cutting sheets, open source blueprints, CAD files download, basic assembly skills", - "resources": "### Tools\n\n- Welding machine\n- Drilling machine\n\n### Software\n\n- CAD software (Open-source blueprints: [linktr.ee/plastmakers](https://linktr.ee/plastmakers))\n\n### Hardware\n\n- Laser cutting machine access", - "references": "## Open-Source Designs\n\n- How to build mini press - [filtered] Academy\n\n## Articles\n\n- [Forged Fabric Parts With 3D Printed Compression Molds](https://www.instructables.com/Forged-Fabric-Parts-With-3D-Printed-Compression-Mo/)\n- [Guide to Compression Molding From Prototyping to Mass Production](https://formlabs.com/blog/compression-molding/)\n- [The Beginner's Guide to Compression Molding](https://monroeengineering.com/blog/the-beginners-guide-to-compression-molding/)\n\n## YouTube Videos\n\n- [Compression and Injection Compression Molding with Simulation](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=amH8BGj0MHg)\n- [Compression Molding](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GqE93pbV_9I)\n\n## Papers\n\n- ~~[Compression Molding of Long Chopped Fiber Thermoplastics (Technical Paper)](https://www.toraytac.com/media/c3feb206-1398-4e0e-bca6-df7780f11745/tcCurg/TenCate%20Advanced%20Composites/Documents/Technical%20papers/TenCate_chopped_fiber_thermoplastics_compression_molding_technical_paper.pdf)~~", - "brief": "Learn to build a mini press for compression moulding with a video tutorial, free blueprints, and CAD files. Ideal for creating sheets, coasters, clocks, and more." + "content": "Tutorial how to build mini press for compression moulding.\nFor making this simple machine you need welding machine, access to laser cutting machine, drilling machine and basic assembly skills. \n\n\nUser Location: Liberec, Czechia\n\nAll steps are mentioned in video tutorial. \nClick the yellow download button above to go to the direct link to open source blueprints and CAD files.\n\n\nWith this standard size frame it is possible to press sheets with area 37x37cm. \n\nMax. recommended mould height is 80mm\n\nI have already produced:\n\n- sheets 37x37cm, thickness 3, 5, 20mm \n- coasters\n- clock\n- clipboard\n- sheets which was latter used for CNC cutting - design of lamp, animal models. \n\n\n\nFull machine: \n\n\n\nLaser cutted parts for pressing plates: \n\n\n\nNext upgrades and tips for compression moulding you can find on Youtube, or Instagram:\nlinktr.ee: linktr.ee/plastmakers\n\nI hope it can help you with plastic recycling. \n\nTom" } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/how-to-create-sheets-with-filament-spools/README.md b/howtos/how-to-create-sheets-with-filament-spools/README.md index 7cb00c03c..735adbb9b 100644 --- a/howtos/how-to-create-sheets-with-filament-spools/README.md +++ b/howtos/how-to-create-sheets-with-filament-spools/README.md @@ -1,23 +1,23 @@ --- title: How to create sheets with filament spools slug: how-to-create-sheets-with-filament-spools -description: 3D printing does not inherently generate waste; however, the spools used often become discarded by-products. After accumulating these spools for years, we have effectively repurposed them. Each sheet transforms 34 spools, rendering them suitable for diverse applications such as furniture and product design. +description: While 3D printing itself may not generate waste, one of the by-products of production are the spools. After years of accumulating spools, we've successfully recycled a key waste product from 3D printing that used to end up in the trash. For each sheet, 34 spools are given new life, making them suitable for use in various applications, including furniture, product design and other amazing ideas. tags: ["PS","PP"] category: Guides difficulty: Medium time: < 5 hours -keywords: 3D printing waste, repurposing spools, industrial shredding, sustainable design, recycled materials, plastic moulding process, assembly instructions, furniture design, product design, eco-friendly manufacturing +keywords: location: Madrid, Spain --- # How to create sheets with filament spools ![How to create sheets with filament spools](068img_9214-18d1706e327.jpg) -3D printing does not inherently generate waste; however, the spools used often become discarded by-products. After accumulating these spools for years, we have effectively repurposed them. Each sheet transforms 34 spools, rendering them suitable for diverse applications such as furniture and product design. +While 3D printing itself may not generate waste, one of the by-products of production are the spools. After years of accumulating spools, we've successfully recycled a key waste product from 3D printing that used to end up in the trash. For each sheet, 34 spools are given new life, making them suitable for use in various applications, including furniture, product design and other amazing ideas. User Location: Madrid, Spain ## Steps ### Step 1: Shredding coils -First, sort the coils by material type, such as PP and PS, and use an industrial shredder to create particles with a uniform texture of about 0.2 inches (5 mm). +The first step consists of dividing the coils by material type, usually PP and PS, and shredding them. In this case with an industrial shredder, which achieves a uniform texture of approximately 5 mm per particle. ![WhatsApp Image 2024-01-17 at 12.02.55 PM-18d171cfe4c.jpeg](./WhatsApp_Image_2024-01-17_at_12.02.55_PM-18d171cfe4c.jpeg) @@ -27,9 +27,7 @@ First, sort the coils by material type, such as PP and PS, and use an industrial ### Step 2: Mounting the plate -### Assembly Instructions for Mould - -To assemble the mould, begin by placing a thin metal sheet coated with natural wax within it. Next, position the structure according to the desired shape and size. For this example, the mould measures 60 x 60 cm (24 x 24 inches) and is 2 cm (0.8 inches) thick. The material usage for this mould is approximately 8 kg (17.6 lbs). +The next step is to assemble the mould. For this purpose, a thin sheet of metal greased with natural wax is placed in the mould. This is followed by a structure of the desired shape and width. In this case the mould is 60 x 60 cm square and has a thickness of 2 cm. In this case the amount of material used is 8 kg. ![WhatsApp Image 2024-01-17 at 12.02.50 PM-18d172d0f98.jpeg](./WhatsApp_Image_2024-01-17_at_12.02.50_PM-18d172d0f98.jpeg) @@ -39,7 +37,7 @@ To assemble the mould, begin by placing a thin metal sheet coated with natural w ### Step 3: Heating the plate -Place the material inside and cover it with another sheet of waxed metal to prevent sticking. Activate the press and heat to 230°C (446°F) for 45 minutes or until the plastic begins to overflow. Allow it to cool after the heating period. +Once the material is inside, it is covered with another sheet of metal to prevent it from sticking to the press, which is also waxed. Finally, the press is turned on and heated at 230ºC for 45m or until the plastic starts to overflow. Once the 45 min are over, until it cools down. ![WhatsApp Image 2024-01-17 at 12.02.43 PM(1)-18d172fe962.jpeg](./WhatsApp_Image_2024-01-17_at_12.02.43_PM1-18d172fe962.jpeg) @@ -48,60 +46,4 @@ Place the material inside and cover it with another sheet of waxed metal to prev ![WhatsApp Image 2024-01-17 at 12.02.42 PM-18d17302e5d.jpeg](./WhatsApp_Image_2024-01-17_at_12.02.42_PM-18d17302e5d.jpeg) ## Resources -3D printing waste reduction through spool repurposing involves industrial tools and custom fabrication processes. Below are the key components required for transforming plastic spools into sheets for design applications. - -### Tools - -- Material sorting system (for PP, PS, and other plastics) -- Precision measurement tools (for 5 mm particle uniformity checks) -- Thermal control devices (for monitoring 230°C/446°F temperatures) -- Wax application equipment (for metal sheet coating) -- Cooling timers (for post-press hardening) - -### Hardware - -- ~~[Industrial shredder](https://example.com/plasticshredder)~~ (5 mm particle output capacity) -- ~~[Heated hydraulic press](https://example.com/thermalpress)~~ (60x60 cm platen size) -- ~~[Custom aluminum mold](https://example.com/custommolds)~~ (24"x24"x0.8" dimensions) -- ~~[Wax-coated steel sheets](https://example.com/metalfab)~~ (food-grade release surfaces) -- ~~[High-capacity drying racks](https://example.com/coolingtables)~~ (for post-processing) - -### Consumables - -- 8 kg plastic spool material per sheet -- Natural wax release agent -- Heat-resistant mold seals -- Protective gloves (for 230°C operations) -- Insulation materials (thermal process safety) - -All listed equipment can be sourced from industrial suppliers in Madrid like ~~[Hercort](https://www.hercort.com)~~ for shredders or ~~[Tecni-Molde](https://www.tecnimolde.com)~~ for custom molds. -## References -### Articles - -- [How to Recycle PS Spools into 3D Prints: A DIY Guide](https://www.3devo.com/blog/how-to-recycle-ps-spools-into-3d-prints-diy-guide) -- [3D Printing with Recycled Plastic: Sustainable Solutions for the Future](https://www.piocreat3d.com/3d-printing-with-recycled-plastic-sustainable-solutions-for-the-future/) -- [Closed-loop additive manufacturing fueled by upcycled plastic](https://www.ornl.gov/news/closed-loop-additive-manufacturing-fueled-upcycled-plastic-0) -- [Sustainable 3D Printing: Create and Use Recycled Filament](https://www.3devo.com/blog/sustainable-3d-printing-create-use-recycled-filament) -- [Environmental Benefits of 3D Printing with Recycled Filament](https://www.filamentive.com/environmental-benefits-of-3d-printing-with-recycled-filament/) -- [Polyformer: from PET bottles to 3D printing filaments](https://designwanted.com/polyformer-pet-bottle-3d-printing-filaments/) -- Recycle plastic waste into 3d printing filament -- [Combination 3D Printer will Recycle Plastic in Space](https://www.nasa.gov/image-article/combination-3d-printer-will-recycle-plastic-space/) - -### Books - -- [Sustainability Case Study Plastic Books](https://www.ansys.com/content/dam/amp/2021/august/webpage-requests/education-resources-dam-upload-batch-4/sustainability-plastic-book-case-study-CASSDKEN21.pdf) - -### Papers - -- [Closed-loop Additive Manufacturing of Upcycled Commodity Plastic through Dynamic Crosslinking](https://www.ornl.gov/news/closed-loop-additive-manufacturing-fueled-upcycled-plastic-0) -- ~~[Exploring Computational Media as a Possible Future of Software](https://pure.au.dk/portal/files/283327740/Exploring_Computational_Media_as_a_Possible_Future_of_Software.pdf)~~ - -### YouTube - -- [Recycling filament spools?!](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=40CsyGu6ViI) - -### Opensource Designs - -- [RepRapable Recyclebot: 3-D Printable Extruder for Plastic to Filament](https://www.appropedia.org/RepRapable_Recyclebot:_Open_source_3-D_printable_extruder_for_converting_plastic_to_3-D_printing_filament) -- [Polyformer: PET Bottle Recycling Machine](https://designwanted.com/polyformer-pet-bottle-3d-printing-filaments/) -- [DIY Shredder - Shredii](https://actionbox.ca/pages/diy-shredder-shredii) \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/how-to-create-sheets-with-filament-spools/config.json b/howtos/how-to-create-sheets-with-filament-spools/config.json index 5af1845f5..578fb0ec4 100644 --- a/howtos/how-to-create-sheets-with-filament-spools/config.json +++ b/howtos/how-to-create-sheets-with-filament-spools/config.json @@ -18,7 +18,7 @@ "mentions": [], "_created": "2024-01-18T10:40:04.373Z", "time": "< 5 hours", - "description": "3D printing does not inherently generate waste; however, the spools used often become discarded by-products. After accumulating these spools for years, we have effectively repurposed them. Each sheet transforms 34 spools, rendering them suitable for diverse applications such as furniture and product design.", + "description": "While 3D printing itself may not generate waste, one of the by-products of production are the spools. After years of accumulating spools, we've successfully recycled a key waste product from 3D printing that used to end up in the trash. For each sheet, 34 spools are given new life, making them suitable for use in various applications, including furniture, product design and other amazing ideas.", "title": "How to create sheets with filament spools", "_id": "LHUVbINyJJU64uqR79SY", "previousSlugs": [ @@ -39,7 +39,7 @@ "comments": [], "steps": [ { - "text": "First, sort the coils by material type, such as PP and PS, and use an industrial shredder to create particles with a uniform texture of about 0.2 inches (5 mm).", + "text": "The first step consists of dividing the coils by material type, usually PP and PS, and shredding them. In this case with an industrial shredder, which achieves a uniform texture of approximately 5 mm per particle.", "_animationKey": "unique1", "title": "Shredding coils", "images": [ @@ -72,7 +72,7 @@ { "title": "Mounting the plate", "_animationKey": "unique2", - "text": "### Assembly Instructions for Mould\n\nTo assemble the mould, begin by placing a thin metal sheet coated with natural wax within it. Next, position the structure according to the desired shape and size. For this example, the mould measures 60 x 60 cm (24 x 24 inches) and is 2 cm (0.8 inches) thick. The material usage for this mould is approximately 8 kg (17.6 lbs).", + "text": "The next step is to assemble the mould. For this purpose, a thin sheet of metal greased with natural wax is placed in the mould. This is followed by a structure of the desired shape and width. In this case the mould is 60 x 60 cm square and has a thickness of 2 cm. In this case the amount of material used is 8 kg.", "images": [ { "contentType": "image/jpeg", @@ -128,7 +128,7 @@ "alt": "WhatsApp Image 2024-01-17 at 12.02.42 PM-18d17302e5d.jpeg" } ], - "text": "Place the material inside and cover it with another sheet of waxed metal to prevent sticking. Activate the press and heat to 230°C (446°F) for 45 minutes or until the plastic begins to overflow. Allow it to cool after the heating period.", + "text": "Once the material is inside, it is covered with another sheet of metal to prevent it from sticking to the press, which is also waxed. Finally, the press is turned on and heated at 230ºC for 45m or until the plastic starts to overflow. Once the 45 min are over, until it cools down.", "title": "Heating the plate" } ], @@ -281,9 +281,5 @@ "urls": [] } }, - "content": "3D printing does not inherently generate waste; however, the spools used often become discarded by-products. After accumulating these spools for years, we have effectively repurposed them. Each sheet transforms 34 spools, rendering them suitable for diverse applications such as furniture and product design.\n\n\nUser Location: Madrid, Spain\n\nFirst, sort the coils by material type, such as PP and PS, and use an industrial shredder to create particles with a uniform texture of about 0.2 inches (5 mm).\n\n### Assembly Instructions for Mould\n\nTo assemble the mould, begin by placing a thin metal sheet coated with natural wax within it. Next, position the structure according to the desired shape and size. For this example, the mould measures 60 x 60 cm (24 x 24 inches) and is 2 cm (0.8 inches) thick. The material usage for this mould is approximately 8 kg (17.6 lbs).\n\nPlace the material inside and cover it with another sheet of waxed metal to prevent sticking. Activate the press and heat to 230°C (446°F) for 45 minutes or until the plastic begins to overflow. Allow it to cool after the heating period.", - "keywords": "3D printing waste, repurposing spools, industrial shredding, sustainable design, recycled materials, plastic moulding process, assembly instructions, furniture design, product design, eco-friendly manufacturing", - "resources": "3D printing waste reduction through spool repurposing involves industrial tools and custom fabrication processes. Below are the key components required for transforming plastic spools into sheets for design applications.\n\n### Tools\n\n- Material sorting system (for PP, PS, and other plastics)\n- Precision measurement tools (for 5 mm particle uniformity checks)\n- Thermal control devices (for monitoring 230°C/446°F temperatures)\n- Wax application equipment (for metal sheet coating)\n- Cooling timers (for post-press hardening)\n\n### Hardware\n\n- ~~[Industrial shredder](https://example.com/plasticshredder)~~ (5 mm particle output capacity)\n- ~~[Heated hydraulic press](https://example.com/thermalpress)~~ (60x60 cm platen size)\n- ~~[Custom aluminum mold](https://example.com/custommolds)~~ (24\"x24\"x0.8\" dimensions)\n- ~~[Wax-coated steel sheets](https://example.com/metalfab)~~ (food-grade release surfaces)\n- ~~[High-capacity drying racks](https://example.com/coolingtables)~~ (for post-processing)\n\n### Consumables\n\n- 8 kg plastic spool material per sheet\n- Natural wax release agent\n- Heat-resistant mold seals\n- Protective gloves (for 230°C operations)\n- Insulation materials (thermal process safety)\n\nAll listed equipment can be sourced from industrial suppliers in Madrid like ~~[Hercort](https://www.hercort.com)~~ for shredders or ~~[Tecni-Molde](https://www.tecnimolde.com)~~ for custom molds.", - "references": "### Articles\n\n- [How to Recycle PS Spools into 3D Prints: A DIY Guide](https://www.3devo.com/blog/how-to-recycle-ps-spools-into-3d-prints-diy-guide)\n- [3D Printing with Recycled Plastic: Sustainable Solutions for the Future](https://www.piocreat3d.com/3d-printing-with-recycled-plastic-sustainable-solutions-for-the-future/)\n- [Closed-loop additive manufacturing fueled by upcycled plastic](https://www.ornl.gov/news/closed-loop-additive-manufacturing-fueled-upcycled-plastic-0)\n- [Sustainable 3D Printing: Create and Use Recycled Filament](https://www.3devo.com/blog/sustainable-3d-printing-create-use-recycled-filament)\n- [Environmental Benefits of 3D Printing with Recycled Filament](https://www.filamentive.com/environmental-benefits-of-3d-printing-with-recycled-filament/)\n- [Polyformer: from PET bottles to 3D printing filaments](https://designwanted.com/polyformer-pet-bottle-3d-printing-filaments/)\n- Recycle plastic waste into 3d printing filament\n- [Combination 3D Printer will Recycle Plastic in Space](https://www.nasa.gov/image-article/combination-3d-printer-will-recycle-plastic-space/)\n\n### Books\n\n- [Sustainability Case Study Plastic Books](https://www.ansys.com/content/dam/amp/2021/august/webpage-requests/education-resources-dam-upload-batch-4/sustainability-plastic-book-case-study-CASSDKEN21.pdf)\n\n### Papers\n\n- [Closed-loop Additive Manufacturing of Upcycled Commodity Plastic through Dynamic Crosslinking](https://www.ornl.gov/news/closed-loop-additive-manufacturing-fueled-upcycled-plastic-0)\n- ~~[Exploring Computational Media as a Possible Future of Software](https://pure.au.dk/portal/files/283327740/Exploring_Computational_Media_as_a_Possible_Future_of_Software.pdf)~~\n\n### YouTube\n\n- [Recycling filament spools?!](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=40CsyGu6ViI)\n\n### Opensource Designs\n\n- [RepRapable Recyclebot: 3-D Printable Extruder for Plastic to Filament](https://www.appropedia.org/RepRapable_Recyclebot:_Open_source_3-D_printable_extruder_for_converting_plastic_to_3-D_printing_filament)\n- [Polyformer: PET Bottle Recycling Machine](https://designwanted.com/polyformer-pet-bottle-3d-printing-filaments/)\n- [DIY Shredder - Shredii](https://actionbox.ca/pages/diy-shredder-shredii)", - "brief": "Repurpose 3D printer spools into eco-friendly products by shredding and molding them for various applications, reducing waste and promoting sustainability." + "content": "While 3D printing itself may not generate waste, one of the by-products of production are the spools. After years of accumulating spools, we've successfully recycled a key waste product from 3D printing that used to end up in the trash. For each sheet, 34 spools are given new life, making them suitable for use in various applications, including furniture, product design and other amazing ideas.\n\n\nUser Location: Madrid, Spain\n\nThe first step consists of dividing the coils by material type, usually PP and PS, and shredding them. In this case with an industrial shredder, which achieves a uniform texture of approximately 5 mm per particle.\n\nThe next step is to assemble the mould. For this purpose, a thin sheet of metal greased with natural wax is placed in the mould. This is followed by a structure of the desired shape and width. In this case the mould is 60 x 60 cm square and has a thickness of 2 cm. In this case the amount of material used is 8 kg.\n\nOnce the material is inside, it is covered with another sheet of metal to prevent it from sticking to the press, which is also waxed. Finally, the press is turned on and heated at 230ºC for 45m or until the plastic starts to overflow. Once the 45 min are over, until it cools down." } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/how-to-make-the-perfect-recycled-sheet/README.md b/howtos/how-to-make-the-perfect-recycled-sheet/README.md index dd51cee05..23b8b889a 100644 --- a/howtos/how-to-make-the-perfect-recycled-sheet/README.md +++ b/howtos/how-to-make-the-perfect-recycled-sheet/README.md @@ -1,36 +1,36 @@ --- title: How to make the perfect recycled sheet slug: how-to-make-the-perfect-recycled-sheet -description: Creating Sheets in Our Studio, Costa Rica +description: How we make our sheets from our studio in Costa Rica. tags: ["untagged","sheetpress"] category: Products difficulty: Medium time: < 5 hours -keywords: Sheets production, Studio Costa Rica, creative materials, plastic sheets, sustainable products, sheet-making process, Costa Rica studio, recycled plastic, innovative products, eco-friendly materials +keywords: location: Curridabat, Costa Rica --- # How to make the perfect recycled sheet ![How to make the perfect recycled sheet](payasa_full-18858834fd0.png) -Creating Sheets in Our Studio, Costa Rica +How we make our sheets from our studio in Costa Rica. User Location: Curridabat, Costa Rica ## Steps ### Step 1: Tools and equipment needed -To produce a quality sheet, you will need: +To create a great sheet, you will need: - A sheet press - A cooling press -- Molds and mold frame -- A reliable supply of clean, sorted plastic -- A committed team +- Moulds + mould frame +- Good source of clean, sorted plastic +- A dedicated team of plastic enthusiasts! ### Step 2: Create the sheet -We have produced a video detailing our sheet-making process. Feel free to watch it. +We've made a video with [filtered] that talks about how we make our sheets! Give it a watch :) ### Step 3: Outcomes -Once you have your sheet, use it to create products or sell to clients. Many products can be made, and our clients have achieved impressive results with our materials. Visit our website or Instagram for our latest offerings: www.trs.cr +Once you have your sheet, take a minute to admire it, and then create your product or sell it to your clients. There's plenty of products that can be made and our clients have done really awesome things with our materials. Check out our website or out Instagram for our latest products - www.trs.cr @​​​​​trs.cr ![paloma cnc-1885883e5c6.png](./paloma_cnc-1885883e5c6.png) @@ -39,51 +39,4 @@ Once you have your sheet, use it to create products or sell to clients. Many pro ![payasa coasters-1885883fcc5.png](./payasa_coasters-1885883fcc5.png) ## Resources -To create sheets using the described process from Costa Rica, the required equipment and resources are focused on physical machinery and materials. Below is the structured breakdown: - -### Hardware - -- Sheet press -- Cooling press -- Molds and mold frame - -### Tools - -- Clean, sorted plastic supply - -### Software - -- Not specified in the tutorial - -### Additional Resources - -- ~~[TRS Website](www.trs.cr)~~ -- [TRS Instagram](https://www.instagram.com/trs.cr) - -The process emphasizes industrial equipment for pressing and molding, alongside a steady material supply. For further details, refer to TRS's official channels. -## References -## Articles - -- How to make the perfect recycled sheet -- [From Plastic Bags to Straws: Costa Rica's New Law Tackles Single-Use Plastics](https://ticotimes.net/2023/04/13/from-plastic-bags-to-straws-costa-ricas-new-law-tackles-single-use-plastics) -- ~~[Plastic recycling in Costa Rica](https://elcolectivo506.com/plastic-recycling-in-costa-rica/?lang=en)~~ -- [Costa Rican Startup Makes Cement Blocks with Recycled Ocean-Bound Plastic](https://www.ptonline.com/blog/post/costa-rican-startup-makes-cement-blocks-with-recycled-ocean-bound-plastic) -- The ultimate guide to the [filtered] Sheetpress -- [The ultimate guide to the [filtered] Sheetpress](https://www.huaaoplastics.com/resources/the-ultimate-guide-to-the-precious-plastic-sheetpress.html) - -## YouTube - -- [The ultimate guide to make the PERFECT sheet | 2024](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GEqPjhllYTY) -- [Unveiling the Largest Recycled Plastic Sheet Press](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=olqWaVEeJFs) - -## Open-source Designs - -- [uwo-fast/desktop-sheet-press](https://github.com/uwo-fast/desktop-sheet-press) -- [Literature review: Open Source Waste Plastic Sheet Press](https://www.appropedia.org/Literature_review:_Open_Source_Waste_Plastic_Sheet_Press) -- [Plastic Sheet Press - disruptively-useful](https://publish.obsidian.md/disruptively-useful/Mar+College+Institute+for+Insurrectionary+Ecology+-+2025/Life+Support+Modules/Waste/Precious+Plastic+Sheet+Press/Plastic+Sheet+Press) -- How to build mini press - -## Papers - -- [Open Source Cold and Hot Scientific Sheet Press for Investigating Polymer-Based Material Properties](https://papers.ssrn.com/sol3/papers.cfm?abstract_id=4789786) -- [Open-source cold and hot scientific sheet press for investigating polymer-based material properties](https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/39687304/) \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/how-to-make-the-perfect-recycled-sheet/config.json b/howtos/how-to-make-the-perfect-recycled-sheet/config.json index 24f542dda..89f6d1884 100644 --- a/howtos/how-to-make-the-perfect-recycled-sheet/config.json +++ b/howtos/how-to-make-the-perfect-recycled-sheet/config.json @@ -1,5 +1,5 @@ { - "description": "Creating Sheets in Our Studio, Costa Rica", + "description": "How we make our sheets from our studio in Costa Rica.", "_modified": "2023-10-23T16:23:30.597Z", "creatorCountry": "cr", "cover_image": { @@ -74,7 +74,7 @@ "steps": [ { "videoUrl": "https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KRmlrkLkstc", - "text": "To produce a quality sheet, you will need:\n- A sheet press\n- A cooling press\n- Molds and mold frame\n- A reliable supply of clean, sorted plastic\n- A committed team", + "text": "To create a great sheet, you will need:\n- A sheet press\n- A cooling press\n- Moulds + mould frame\n- Good source of clean, sorted plastic\n- A dedicated team of plastic enthusiasts!", "images": [], "title": "Tools and equipment needed", "_animationKey": "unique1" @@ -82,7 +82,7 @@ { "videoUrl": "https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KRmlrkLkstc", "_animationKey": "unique2", - "text": "We have produced a video detailing our sheet-making process. Feel free to watch it.", + "text": "We've made a video with [filtered] that talks about how we make our sheets! Give it a watch :)", "images": [], "title": "Create the sheet" }, @@ -115,7 +115,7 @@ } ], "_animationKey": "unique3", - "text": "Once you have your sheet, use it to create products or sell to clients. Many products can be made, and our clients have achieved impressive results with our materials. Visit our website or Instagram for our latest offerings: www.trs.cr" + "text": "Once you have your sheet, take a minute to admire it, and then create your product or sell it to your clients. There's plenty of products that can be made and our clients have done really awesome things with our materials. Check out our website or out Instagram for our latest products - www.trs.cr @​​​​​trs.cr" } ], "slug": "how-to-make-the-perfect-recycled-sheet", @@ -246,9 +246,5 @@ "urls": [] } }, - "content": "Creating Sheets in Our Studio, Costa Rica\n\n\nUser Location: Curridabat, Costa Rica\n\nTo produce a quality sheet, you will need:\n- A sheet press\n- A cooling press\n- Molds and mold frame\n- A reliable supply of clean, sorted plastic\n- A committed team\n\nWe have produced a video detailing our sheet-making process. Feel free to watch it.\n\nOnce you have your sheet, use it to create products or sell to clients. Many products can be made, and our clients have achieved impressive results with our materials. Visit our website or Instagram for our latest offerings: www.trs.cr", - "keywords": "Sheets production, Studio Costa Rica, creative materials, plastic sheets, sustainable products, sheet-making process, Costa Rica studio, recycled plastic, innovative products, eco-friendly materials", - "resources": "To create sheets using the described process from Costa Rica, the required equipment and resources are focused on physical machinery and materials. Below is the structured breakdown:\n\n### Hardware\n\n- Sheet press\n- Cooling press\n- Molds and mold frame\n\n### Tools\n\n- Clean, sorted plastic supply\n\n### Software\n\n- Not specified in the tutorial\n\n### Additional Resources\n\n- ~~[TRS Website](www.trs.cr)~~\n- [TRS Instagram](https://www.instagram.com/trs.cr)\n\nThe process emphasizes industrial equipment for pressing and molding, alongside a steady material supply. For further details, refer to TRS's official channels.", - "references": "## Articles\n\n- How to make the perfect recycled sheet\n- [From Plastic Bags to Straws: Costa Rica's New Law Tackles Single-Use Plastics](https://ticotimes.net/2023/04/13/from-plastic-bags-to-straws-costa-ricas-new-law-tackles-single-use-plastics)\n- ~~[Plastic recycling in Costa Rica](https://elcolectivo506.com/plastic-recycling-in-costa-rica/?lang=en)~~\n- [Costa Rican Startup Makes Cement Blocks with Recycled Ocean-Bound Plastic](https://www.ptonline.com/blog/post/costa-rican-startup-makes-cement-blocks-with-recycled-ocean-bound-plastic)\n- The ultimate guide to the [filtered] Sheetpress\n- [The ultimate guide to the [filtered] Sheetpress](https://www.huaaoplastics.com/resources/the-ultimate-guide-to-the-precious-plastic-sheetpress.html)\n\n## YouTube\n\n- [The ultimate guide to make the PERFECT sheet | 2024](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GEqPjhllYTY)\n- [Unveiling the Largest Recycled Plastic Sheet Press](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=olqWaVEeJFs)\n\n## Open-source Designs\n\n- [uwo-fast/desktop-sheet-press](https://github.com/uwo-fast/desktop-sheet-press)\n- [Literature review: Open Source Waste Plastic Sheet Press](https://www.appropedia.org/Literature_review:_Open_Source_Waste_Plastic_Sheet_Press)\n- [Plastic Sheet Press - disruptively-useful](https://publish.obsidian.md/disruptively-useful/Mar+College+Institute+for+Insurrectionary+Ecology+-+2025/Life+Support+Modules/Waste/Precious+Plastic+Sheet+Press/Plastic+Sheet+Press)\n- How to build mini press\n\n## Papers\n\n- [Open Source Cold and Hot Scientific Sheet Press for Investigating Polymer-Based Material Properties](https://papers.ssrn.com/sol3/papers.cfm?abstract_id=4789786)\n- [Open-source cold and hot scientific sheet press for investigating polymer-based material properties](https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/39687304/)", - "brief": "Create high-quality plastic sheets with our detailed guide from Costa Rica. Use our trusted materials for impressive results. Discover more on our website." + "content": "How we make our sheets from our studio in Costa Rica.\n\n\nUser Location: Curridabat, Costa Rica\n\nTo create a great sheet, you will need:\n- A sheet press\n- A cooling press\n- Moulds + mould frame\n- Good source of clean, sorted plastic\n- A dedicated team of plastic enthusiasts!\n\nWe've made a video with [filtered] that talks about how we make our sheets! Give it a watch :)\n\nOnce you have your sheet, take a minute to admire it, and then create your product or sell it to your clients. There's plenty of products that can be made and our clients have done really awesome things with our materials. Check out our website or out Instagram for our latest products - www.trs.cr @​​​​​trs.cr" } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/how-to-teach-about-plastic-recycling/README.md b/howtos/how-to-teach-about-plastic-recycling/README.md index 94a13b952..40c689f83 100644 --- a/howtos/how-to-teach-about-plastic-recycling/README.md +++ b/howtos/how-to-teach-about-plastic-recycling/README.md @@ -1,27 +1,29 @@ --- title: How to teach about plastic recycling slug: how-to-teach-about-plastic-recycling -description: ## Tutorial Overview - -Drawing from practical experience, this package provides essential information for individuals, schools, and NGOs. It offers guidance on teaching various processing technologies. +description: Based on my learning by doing experience I made a package with basic information that can help individuals, schools and NGOs. You can find tips how teach about recycling technologies, circular economy and other processing possibilities. tags: ["starterkit"] category: Guides difficulty: Medium time: 1+ months -keywords: plastic waste recycling, educational workshops, reuse of plastics, single-use plastics reduction, processing technologies education, Liberec workshops, NGOs environmental education, practical sustainability, plastic waste awareness, after-school activities +keywords: location: Liberec, Czechia --- # How to teach about plastic recycling ![How to teach about plastic recycling](Thumbnail_-_how_to.png) -## Tutorial Overview - -Drawing from practical experience, this package provides essential information for individuals, schools, and NGOs. It offers guidance on teaching various processing technologies. +Based on my learning by doing experience I made a package with basic information that can help individuals, schools and NGOs. You can find tips how teach about recycling technologies, circular economy and other processing possibilities. User Location: Liberec, Czechia ## Steps ### Step 1: Start with WHY.. -In 2020, only 30% of plastic waste in the Czech Republic was recycled, 39% was incinerated as fuel, and the rest fell into other categories. While collection occurs, knowledge of reuse is limited. The primary issue is ignorance. Education with practical examples can raise awareness about reducing single-use plastics, reuse, and informed processes among the younger generation. We have the power to shape the future world. +In the modern and industrial European country such as Czech Republic was in 2020 recycled only 30% of plastic material, 39% was burned as a certified fuel and remaining ended up somewere else. People can collect it but do not know how to reuse it. +In my opinion, problem is in the ignorance. + +I believe that education with real examples can increase awarness about lowering consumption of single use plastic, reusing and recycling. Young generation should know about plastic more information that I learned as a teenager. + +We have an ability to choose how our future World will look like. + ![Plastmakers - presentation at school - 1.0.png](./Plastmakers_-_presentation_at_school_-_1.0.png) @@ -31,58 +33,57 @@ In 2020, only 30% of plastic waste in the Czech Republic was recycled, 39% was i ### Step 2: Download package -### Download Instructions +Total package has 1.1 GB. Its not possible to upload it on this how-to page. -The total package size is 1.1 GB, making it unsuitable for direct upload here. You can download it for free via the following Google Drive link: +You can download it for free from Google drive link: -[Download from Google Drive](https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1Mwp2PZPxX7lRY0rVgQ_F8svFhY6AAQRr?usp=sharing) +drive.google.com: drive.google.com/drive/folders/1Mwp2PZPxX7lRY0rVgQ_F8svFhY6AAQRr?usp=sharing + +You edit materials, share and use as you want. -Feel free to edit, share, and use the materials as needed. ![free download.png](./free_download.png) ### Step 3: Choose activity you want to do -## Example Activities for Makers +As an example I prepared content for 3 different activites that you can do. It was designed according to my experience for machines and tools I use. -### After-School Activity for Kids +AFTER SCHOOL ACTIVITY FOR KIDS: -**Pros:** -- Detailed topic coverage -- Regular sessions -- Ample time for creativity -- Encourages development -- Personalized attention ++ many topics described on detal ++ regular basis ++ more time for creative activities ++ space for development ++ individual approach -**Cons:** -- Limited to small groups -- Requires facility and equipment +- suitable only for small group +- requires a facility and equipment -### School Presentation +PRESENTATION AT SCHOOL: -**Pros:** -- Broader impact -- On-site technology demonstration -- Cost-effective compared to hobby clubs -- Conducted in schools ++ larger impact ++ demonstration technology on site ++ cheaper than regular hobby club ++ presentation at school -**Cons:** -- Provides only a brief overview -- Insufficient time for in-depth explanation -### Public Workshop +- a brief overview about problem +- not enough time to explain everything + +WORKSHOP FOR PUBLIC: + ++ individual approach ++ creative and education activities ++ participants make their own product ++ providing advices how to join pp ++ single afternoon activity + +- suitable for small groups +- requires a facility and equipment + -**Pros:** -- Personalized attention -- Creative and educational activities -- Participants create their own products -- Guides on joining initiatives -- Conducted in a single afternoon -**Cons:** -- Limited to small groups -- Requires facility and equipment ![after school activities.png](./after_school_activities.png) @@ -95,59 +96,20 @@ Feel free to edit, share, and use the materials as needed. ### Step 4: More information -For more information, please contact info@plastmakers.com. +In case you need more information, ask me: info@plastmakers.com -You are welcome to visit us in Liberec, Czech Republic, or arrange a workshop or presentation at your event. +You can also visit me in Liberec (Czech Republic) or book for a workshop/ presentation at your event. -Updates and new projects are available on Instagram: [instagram.com/plastmakers](https://www.instagram.com/plastmakers/) +All news and new projects I also publish on Instagram: instagram.com: instagram.com/plastmakers -Best regards, +I wish you all the best. Tom + + ![end.png](./end.png) ## Resources -The tutorial focuses on educational outreach rather than specific technical tools, but key resources can be extracted: - -### Tools - -- Educational activity templates (included in download package) -- Workshop guides for plastic reuse demonstrations -- Presentation slide decks for schools -- Creative project instructions for hands-on sessions -- Customizable curriculum materials - -### Software - -- [Educational package download](https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1Mwp2PZPxX7lRY0rVgQ_F8svFhY6AAQRr?usp=sharing) (1.1 GB Google Drive resource) -- Basic presentation software (e.g., PowerPoint/Google Slides) -- Image editing tools for material customization -- Social media templates for awareness campaigns - -### Hardware - -- Plastic processing equipment for demonstrations -- Workshop tables/workstations -- Basic crafting tools (cutters, molds, heat guns) -- Safety equipment (gloves, goggles) -- Projection system for school presentations - -### Additional Resources - -- ~~[Contact email](mailto:info@plastmakers.com)~~ for workshop arrangements -- [Instagram updates](https://www.instagram.com/plastmakers/) -- Local facility in Liberec for hands-on training -- Partnership network information -- Waste statistics references for educational materials -## References -**References** - -### Open-source Designs - -- [Plastmakers Educational Package](https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1Mwp2PZPxX7lRY0rVgQ_F8svFhY6AAQRr?usp=sharing) - -### Other Resources - -- [Plastmakers on Instagram](https://www.instagram.com/plastmakers/) \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/how-to-teach-about-plastic-recycling/config.json b/howtos/how-to-teach-about-plastic-recycling/config.json index a3e5a7286..e2c5c1d5b 100644 --- a/howtos/how-to-teach-about-plastic-recycling/config.json +++ b/howtos/how-to-teach-about-plastic-recycling/config.json @@ -40,7 +40,7 @@ "_createdBy": "plastmakers", "moderation": "accepted", "fileLink": "", - "description": "## Tutorial Overview\n\nDrawing from practical experience, this package provides essential information for individuals, schools, and NGOs. It offers guidance on teaching various processing technologies.", + "description": "Based on my learning by doing experience I made a package with basic information that can help individuals, schools and NGOs. You can find tips how teach about recycling technologies, circular economy and other processing possibilities.", "comments": [ { "creatorName": "precious-plastic-slovakia", @@ -78,7 +78,7 @@ "_id": "W4gG5h3nPs74n95rPClf", "steps": [ { - "text": "In 2020, only 30% of plastic waste in the Czech Republic was recycled, 39% was incinerated as fuel, and the rest fell into other categories. While collection occurs, knowledge of reuse is limited. The primary issue is ignorance. Education with practical examples can raise awareness about reducing single-use plastics, reuse, and informed processes among the younger generation. We have the power to shape the future world.", + "text": "In the modern and industrial European country such as Czech Republic was in 2020 recycled only 30% of plastic material, 39% was burned as a certified fuel and remaining ended up somewere else. People can collect it but do not know how to reuse it. \nIn my opinion, problem is in the ignorance. \n\nI believe that education with real examples can increase awarness about lowering consumption of single use plastic, reusing and recycling. Young generation should know about plastic more information that I learned as a teenager. \n\nWe have an ability to choose how our future World will look like. \n", "title": "Start with WHY..", "images": [ { @@ -124,11 +124,11 @@ "alt": "free download.png" } ], - "text": "### Download Instructions\n\nThe total package size is 1.1 GB, making it unsuitable for direct upload here. You can download it for free via the following Google Drive link:\n\n[Download from Google Drive](https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1Mwp2PZPxX7lRY0rVgQ_F8svFhY6AAQRr?usp=sharing)\n\nFeel free to edit, share, and use the materials as needed.", + "text": "Total package has 1.1 GB. Its not possible to upload it on this how-to page.\n\nYou can download it for free from Google drive link:\n\ndrive.google.com: drive.google.com/drive/folders/1Mwp2PZPxX7lRY0rVgQ_F8svFhY6AAQRr?usp=sharing\n\nYou edit materials, share and use as you want. \n", "title": "Download package " }, { - "text": "## Example Activities for Makers\n\n### After-School Activity for Kids\n\n**Pros:**\n- Detailed topic coverage\n- Regular sessions\n- Ample time for creativity\n- Encourages development\n- Personalized attention\n\n**Cons:**\n- Limited to small groups\n- Requires facility and equipment\n\n### School Presentation\n\n**Pros:**\n- Broader impact\n- On-site technology demonstration\n- Cost-effective compared to hobby clubs\n- Conducted in schools\n\n**Cons:**\n- Provides only a brief overview\n- Insufficient time for in-depth explanation\n\n### Public Workshop\n\n**Pros:**\n- Personalized attention\n- Creative and educational activities\n- Participants create their own products\n- Guides on joining initiatives\n- Conducted in a single afternoon\n\n**Cons:**\n- Limited to small groups\n- Requires facility and equipment", + "text": "As an example I prepared content for 3 different activites that you can do. It was designed according to my experience for machines and tools I use. \n\nAFTER SCHOOL ACTIVITY FOR KIDS:\n\n+ many topics described on detal\n+ regular basis\n+ more time for creative activities\n+ space for development \n+ individual approach\n\n- suitable only for small group\n- requires a facility and equipment\n\nPRESENTATION AT SCHOOL:\n\n+ larger impact \n+ demonstration technology on site\n+ cheaper than regular hobby club \n+ presentation at school \n\n\n- a brief overview about problem\n- not enough time to explain everything\n\nWORKSHOP FOR PUBLIC: \n\n+ individual approach\n+ creative and education activities \n+ participants make their own product \n+ providing advices how to join pp\n+ single afternoon activity\n\n- suitable for small groups \n- requires a facility and equipment\n\n\n", "_animationKey": "unique3", "images": [ { @@ -187,7 +187,7 @@ ], "title": "More information", "_animationKey": "uniqueonp1yj", - "text": "For more information, please contact info@plastmakers.com.\n\nYou are welcome to visit us in Liberec, Czech Republic, or arrange a workshop or presentation at your event.\n\nUpdates and new projects are available on Instagram: [instagram.com/plastmakers](https://www.instagram.com/plastmakers/)\n\nBest regards,\n\nTom" + "text": "In case you need more information, ask me: info@plastmakers.com\n\nYou can also visit me in Liberec (Czech Republic) or book for a workshop/ presentation at your event. \n\nAll news and new projects I also publish on Instagram: instagram.com: instagram.com/plastmakers\n\nI wish you all the best. \n\nTom\n\n" } ], "category": { @@ -351,9 +351,5 @@ "images": [] } }, - "content": "## Tutorial Overview\n\nDrawing from practical experience, this package provides essential information for individuals, schools, and NGOs. It offers guidance on teaching various processing technologies.\n\n\nUser Location: Liberec, Czechia\n\nIn 2020, only 30% of plastic waste in the Czech Republic was recycled, 39% was incinerated as fuel, and the rest fell into other categories. While collection occurs, knowledge of reuse is limited. The primary issue is ignorance. Education with practical examples can raise awareness about reducing single-use plastics, reuse, and informed processes among the younger generation. We have the power to shape the future world.\n\n### Download Instructions\n\nThe total package size is 1.1 GB, making it unsuitable for direct upload here. You can download it for free via the following Google Drive link:\n\n[Download from Google Drive](https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1Mwp2PZPxX7lRY0rVgQ_F8svFhY6AAQRr?usp=sharing)\n\nFeel free to edit, share, and use the materials as needed.\n\n## Example Activities for Makers\n\n### After-School Activity for Kids\n\n**Pros:**\n- Detailed topic coverage\n- Regular sessions\n- Ample time for creativity\n- Encourages development\n- Personalized attention\n\n**Cons:**\n- Limited to small groups\n- Requires facility and equipment\n\n### School Presentation\n\n**Pros:**\n- Broader impact\n- On-site technology demonstration\n- Cost-effective compared to hobby clubs\n- Conducted in schools\n\n**Cons:**\n- Provides only a brief overview\n- Insufficient time for in-depth explanation\n\n### Public Workshop\n\n**Pros:**\n- Personalized attention\n- Creative and educational activities\n- Participants create their own products\n- Guides on joining initiatives\n- Conducted in a single afternoon\n\n**Cons:**\n- Limited to small groups\n- Requires facility and equipment\n\nFor more information, please contact info@plastmakers.com.\n\nYou are welcome to visit us in Liberec, Czech Republic, or arrange a workshop or presentation at your event.\n\nUpdates and new projects are available on Instagram: [instagram.com/plastmakers](https://www.instagram.com/plastmakers/)\n\nBest regards,\n\nTom", - "keywords": "plastic waste recycling, educational workshops, reuse of plastics, single-use plastics reduction, processing technologies education, Liberec workshops, NGOs environmental education, practical sustainability, plastic waste awareness, after-school activities", - "resources": "The tutorial focuses on educational outreach rather than specific technical tools, but key resources can be extracted:\n\n### Tools\n\n- Educational activity templates (included in download package)\n- Workshop guides for plastic reuse demonstrations\n- Presentation slide decks for schools\n- Creative project instructions for hands-on sessions\n- Customizable curriculum materials\n\n### Software\n\n- [Educational package download](https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1Mwp2PZPxX7lRY0rVgQ_F8svFhY6AAQRr?usp=sharing) (1.1 GB Google Drive resource)\n- Basic presentation software (e.g., PowerPoint/Google Slides)\n- Image editing tools for material customization\n- Social media templates for awareness campaigns\n\n### Hardware\n\n- Plastic processing equipment for demonstrations\n- Workshop tables/workstations\n- Basic crafting tools (cutters, molds, heat guns)\n- Safety equipment (gloves, goggles)\n- Projection system for school presentations\n\n### Additional Resources\n\n- ~~[Contact email](mailto:info@plastmakers.com)~~ for workshop arrangements\n- [Instagram updates](https://www.instagram.com/plastmakers/)\n- Local facility in Liberec for hands-on training\n- Partnership network information\n- Waste statistics references for educational materials", - "references": "**References**\n\n### Open-source Designs\n\n- [Plastmakers Educational Package](https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1Mwp2PZPxX7lRY0rVgQ_F8svFhY6AAQRr?usp=sharing)\n\n### Other Resources\n\n- [Plastmakers on Instagram](https://www.instagram.com/plastmakers/)", - "brief": "Enhance your knowledge of processing technologies with practical examples for schools and NGOs. Empower the next generation to reduce single-use plastics." + "content": "Based on my learning by doing experience I made a package with basic information that can help individuals, schools and NGOs. You can find tips how teach about recycling technologies, circular economy and other processing possibilities.\n\n\nUser Location: Liberec, Czechia\n\nIn the modern and industrial European country such as Czech Republic was in 2020 recycled only 30% of plastic material, 39% was burned as a certified fuel and remaining ended up somewere else. People can collect it but do not know how to reuse it. \nIn my opinion, problem is in the ignorance. \n\nI believe that education with real examples can increase awarness about lowering consumption of single use plastic, reusing and recycling. Young generation should know about plastic more information that I learned as a teenager. \n\nWe have an ability to choose how our future World will look like. \n\n\nTotal package has 1.1 GB. Its not possible to upload it on this how-to page.\n\nYou can download it for free from Google drive link:\n\ndrive.google.com: drive.google.com/drive/folders/1Mwp2PZPxX7lRY0rVgQ_F8svFhY6AAQRr?usp=sharing\n\nYou edit materials, share and use as you want. \n\n\nAs an example I prepared content for 3 different activites that you can do. It was designed according to my experience for machines and tools I use. \n\nAFTER SCHOOL ACTIVITY FOR KIDS:\n\n+ many topics described on detal\n+ regular basis\n+ more time for creative activities\n+ space for development \n+ individual approach\n\n- suitable only for small group\n- requires a facility and equipment\n\nPRESENTATION AT SCHOOL:\n\n+ larger impact \n+ demonstration technology on site\n+ cheaper than regular hobby club \n+ presentation at school \n\n\n- a brief overview about problem\n- not enough time to explain everything\n\nWORKSHOP FOR PUBLIC: \n\n+ individual approach\n+ creative and education activities \n+ participants make their own product \n+ providing advices how to join pp\n+ single afternoon activity\n\n- suitable for small groups \n- requires a facility and equipment\n\n\n\n\nIn case you need more information, ask me: info@plastmakers.com\n\nYou can also visit me in Liberec (Czech Republic) or book for a workshop/ presentation at your event. \n\nAll news and new projects I also publish on Instagram: instagram.com: instagram.com/plastmakers\n\nI wish you all the best. \n\nTom\n\n" } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/human-powered-shredder/README.md b/howtos/human-powered-shredder/README.md index 8a32aa9be..44757fce0 100644 --- a/howtos/human-powered-shredder/README.md +++ b/howtos/human-powered-shredder/README.md @@ -1,67 +1,63 @@ --- title: Human powered shredder slug: human-powered-shredder -description: The machines are open source, allowing adaptation to your needs. If you'd prefer not to use a motor, alternative manual methods are available to power the shredder. +description: The Precious Plastic machines are open source, which means you can adapt it to your requirements. So if you don't have or don't want to use a motor, there are other more 'humane' ways to power the shredder! tags: ["hack","shredder","research"] category: Machines difficulty: Medium time: < 1 week -keywords: open source machines, manual power options, 3D models examples, shredder performance, high torque engineering, gearbox design, pulleys and belts, non-electric machinery, safety guidelines, machine design customization +keywords: location: Brighton and Hove, United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland (the) --- # Human powered shredder ![Human powered shredder](Unaatitledd2-18391b5b817.jpg) -The machines are open source, allowing adaptation to your needs. If you'd prefer not to use a motor, alternative manual methods are available to power the shredder. +The Precious Plastic machines are open source, which means you can adapt it to your requirements. So if you don't have or don't want to use a motor, there are other more 'humane' ways to power the shredder! User Location: Brighton and Hove, United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland (the) ## Steps ### Step 1: Disclaimer -This guide aims to inspire you in machine design. +Before we start, let us mention that this guide is supposed to be informative, only for you to be inspired about the possibilities of machine design. -We are not liable for any design or operational issues with your machine. Please consult a professional when necessary. +We're not responsible for the design or (mal)functioning of your machine, please seek professional help when needed. -Adhere to all safety guidelines and practices when constructing machinery and using tools. +Always follow safety recommendations and practices when building machinery and using tools. -Proceed with designing, building, and modifying this machine at your own risk. +Design, build and hack this machine at your own risk! -Note that the images and 3D models included are examples and may not suit your specific needs. +The pictures and 3D models in this guide are from particular one-off designs, not to be taken literally as they may not make sense for your requirements. ![Untitled-2.jpg](./Untitled-2.jpg) ### Step 2: User Requirement Specifications -### Understanding User Requirements +Or URS for short is just a fancy way of saying 'identify and define the characteristics of what you want to make'. In other words, before you build the machine, these decisions will have an influence in the design: -User Requirements Specifications (URS) are essential for defining the characteristics of a project before construction. Key considerations include: +- How to power it. You can use a motor (single phase or three phase?), human power (hand-cranked or pedal powered?), animal power (a little hamster in a wheel?), other natural source of energy (wind or hydro power? nuclear? dark matter?) -- **Power Source**: Decide between a motor (single-phase or three-phase), manual options (hand-crank or pedal), or alternative energy sources such as wind or hydro. +- How much use it's going to get. If you plan on using it once a month, perhaps it makes sense to keep it cheap and simple (hand cranked power). If you plan to use it for a few hours a day, you might want something other than your arms to power it. -- **Usage Frequency**: For infrequent use, a simple and inexpensive design may suffice, such as manual power. For frequent use, a more robust power source is advisable. +- What materials do you have available? If you have a salvaged motor maybe it can be adapted. Or if you have an exercise bike that you don't use anymore, you have half the work done for you. -- **Material Availability**: Utilize available resources, such as a salvaged motor or an unused exercise bike, to reduce effort and costs. +- What skills and processes do you have available? If you can weld, the standard design of the machines would work for you. If like me, you can't, you'll have to outsource the task to someone else (which can cost you more than you'd like) or redesign it. -- **Skill and Process Availability**: If you have welding skills, standard machine designs are feasible. Otherwise, consider outsourcing or redesigning, which could increase costs. - -- **Off-Grid Use**: If electricity is inaccessible, consider a non-electric design. - -This structured approach ensures that decisions made at the outset guide the project effectively. +- Is it going to be used off-grid? If access to electricity is difficult then that's going to drive the design to a non-electric one. ![Untitled32.jpg](./Untitled32.jpg) ### Step 3: To weld or not to weld -If welding steel is not an option, consider alternative methods for constructing the frame: +If you can't weld steel, or don't have access to it, there are other techniques that you can use for the frame: -- Steel sections can be joined with nuts and bolts, eliminating welding but requiring drilled holes. +- Steel sections can be fastened with nuts and bolts. You save the welding time, but need to drill holes instead. -- Aluminum T-slot extrusions are also suitable; they are easy to assemble and modify. +- You can use aluminium extrusion T-slot profiles instead, which are easy to bolt and work with. -- Exercise caution if using wood as a structural element due to potential exposure to significant forces that wood might not withstand. +- Be careful if you use wood as an structural element. Some parts of the shredder may be subject to strong forces that wood may not resist. -For the shredder, modifications can be made to avoid welding, but this requires precision engineering with accurately measured and squared holes and dimensions. +As for the shredder itself, it can be modified so that it doesn't need welding, but would require a different technique: precision engineering (holes and dimensions need to be very accurate and perfectly square) ![Untitleda2.jpg](./Untitleda2.jpg) @@ -74,26 +70,26 @@ For the shredder, modifications can be made to avoid welding, but this requires ### Step 4: Reduce the speed, increase the torque -To enhance shredder performance, it is crucial to achieve high torque, enabling the shredding of plastics up to 1-3 millimeters (0.04-0.12 inches) with ease. The strategy involves reducing machine speed to increase torque. Power can be transmitted through various methods: +The key in the shredder performance is to make it turn with high torque. That will allow it to shred thicker plastics (1-3 mm) easily. So what we want to do is reduce the speed we apply to the machine and transform it into torque. There are several techniques for power transmission: -- **Gearbox**: Compact units can reduce speed by ratios up to 100:1. They typically contain a worm gear, preventing back-driving during clogs. +- A gearbox. In a very compact unit, we can reduce the speed in ratios of up to 100:1. Usually they have a wormgear internally, so it will block in case of a clog and it won't back-drive. -- **Pulleys and Belts**: These allow power transmission and can slip, which is beneficial if there's a clog. +- Pulleys and belts. The benefit of these are that they can transmit power but they can also slip, which can be good when there's a clog in the shredder. -- **Gears** +- Gears -- **Chains and Sprockets** +- Chains and sprockets ![Untitl3-2.jpg](./Untitl3-2.jpg) ### Step 5: I believe I can FLYWHEEL -Flywheels provide inertia to machines, allowing them to continue moving with minimal input. Place the flywheel on the faster side of your mechanism for optimal performance. +The magic of the flywheels is that it gives the machine inertia: When it's turning, it keeps the machine moving with little input. Remember to put it on the 'fast' side of your mechanism. -The efficiency of a flywheel is determined by its weight, shape, and speed. A disc or wheel shape generally works best, and distributing weight away from the axis enhances performance. Higher speeds improve the ability to maintain rotation with minimal effort. +The factors that influence the efficiency of the flywheel is its weight, shape and speed. Usually a disc or wheel works best, a distribution of weight away from the axis helps. The faster it moves, the better it is at mantaining rotation with little effort. -Consider an exercise bike: the front flywheel keeps spinning even when pedaling stops. +Think of the exercise bike in the picture: the flywheel on the front will keep turning even if you're not pedalling. ![Untitledad2.jpg](./Untitledad2.jpg) @@ -103,7 +99,7 @@ Consider an exercise bike: the front flywheel keeps spinning even when pedaling ### Step 6: Safety first! (and last) -Ensure the installation of guards and covers to prevent fingers from contacting any moving parts, thereby minimizing the risk of injury. +Make sure to incorporate guards and covers so that fingers can't reach any moving parts at any points, minimizing the risks of injury ![Unaatitledd2.jpg](./Unaatitledd2.jpg) @@ -112,45 +108,4 @@ Ensure the installation of guards and covers to prevent fingers from contacting ![Untitleddaa2.jpg](./Untitleddaa2.jpg) ## Resources -### Tools - -- Drill (for creating holes in steel sections) -- Welding equipment (if fabricating welded frames) -- Wrenches/bolts (for nut-and-bolt assembly) -- Precision measuring tools (e.g., calipers, squares) -- T-slot aluminum assembly tools - -### Software - -- Open-source CAD tools (for design customization) -- 3D modeling software (for part adaptation) -- GitHub (accessing open-source machine designs) - -### Hardware - -- Single/three-phase electric motors -- Salvaged motors or exercise bike components -- Steel sections/aluminum T-slot extrusions (structural framing) -- Gearboxes/pulleys/belts (power transmission systems) -- Safety guards/covers (for moving parts protection) -## References -## Papers - -- [Design and Construction of an Automated Paper Shredder with a Cross-Cut Pattern](https://journals.nipes.org/index.php/aedt/article/download/661/660/748) -- [Design and Implementation of a Paper De-shredder](http://courses.ece.ubc.ca/eece412/term_project/reports/2010/deshredder.pdf) -- [Design and Analysis of a Paper Shredder Machine](https://actatecnologia.eu/issues/2021/III_2021_04_Tung_Ngoc_Quynh_Minh.pdf) -- [Design and Fabrication of Paper Shredder Machine](https://www.ijser.org/researchpaper/Design-and-Fabrication-of-Paper-Shredder-Machine.pdf) - -## Opensource Designs - -- [Open Source Shredder v21.10](https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/Open_Source_Shredder_v21.10) -- Manual Shredder Kit -- [Open Source Shredder](https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/Open_Source_Shredder) -- [SHRED-Buddy3D UPcycler](https://builds.openbuilds.com/builds/shred-buddy3d-upcycler-open-source-multi-material-cutter-pelletizer.4275/) -- Bicycle-Powered Shredder -- Shredder PRO by WEIMA 1.0 -- Shredder 2.1 - -## YouTube - -- [Build the Shredder (Part 3.1)](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VFIPXgrk7u0) \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/human-powered-shredder/config.json b/howtos/human-powered-shredder/config.json index 6090e1eab..4233a96e3 100644 --- a/howtos/human-powered-shredder/config.json +++ b/howtos/human-powered-shredder/config.json @@ -50,10 +50,10 @@ "files": [ null ], - "description": "The machines are open source, allowing adaptation to your needs. If you'd prefer not to use a motor, alternative manual methods are available to power the shredder.", + "description": "The Precious Plastic machines are open source, which means you can adapt it to your requirements. So if you don't have or don't want to use a motor, there are other more 'humane' ways to power the shredder!", "steps": [ { - "text": "This guide aims to inspire you in machine design.\n\nWe are not liable for any design or operational issues with your machine. Please consult a professional when necessary.\n\nAdhere to all safety guidelines and practices when constructing machinery and using tools.\n\nProceed with designing, building, and modifying this machine at your own risk.\n\nNote that the images and 3D models included are examples and may not suit your specific needs.", + "text": "Before we start, let us mention that this guide is supposed to be informative, only for you to be inspired about the possibilities of machine design.\n\nWe're not responsible for the design or (mal)functioning of your machine, please seek professional help when needed.\n\nAlways follow safety recommendations and practices when building machinery and using tools.\n\nDesign, build and hack this machine at your own risk!\n\nThe pictures and 3D models in this guide are from particular one-off designs, not to be taken literally as they may not make sense for your requirements.", "title": "Disclaimer", "caption": "", "_animationKey": "unique1", @@ -90,7 +90,7 @@ "alt": "Untitled32.jpg" } ], - "text": "### Understanding User Requirements\n\nUser Requirements Specifications (URS) are essential for defining the characteristics of a project before construction. Key considerations include:\n\n- **Power Source**: Decide between a motor (single-phase or three-phase), manual options (hand-crank or pedal), or alternative energy sources such as wind or hydro. \n\n- **Usage Frequency**: For infrequent use, a simple and inexpensive design may suffice, such as manual power. For frequent use, a more robust power source is advisable.\n\n- **Material Availability**: Utilize available resources, such as a salvaged motor or an unused exercise bike, to reduce effort and costs.\n\n- **Skill and Process Availability**: If you have welding skills, standard machine designs are feasible. Otherwise, consider outsourcing or redesigning, which could increase costs. \n\n- **Off-Grid Use**: If electricity is inaccessible, consider a non-electric design. \n\nThis structured approach ensures that decisions made at the outset guide the project effectively." + "text": "Or URS for short is just a fancy way of saying 'identify and define the characteristics of what you want to make'. In other words, before you build the machine, these decisions will have an influence in the design:\n\n- How to power it. You can use a motor (single phase or three phase?), human power (hand-cranked or pedal powered?), animal power (a little hamster in a wheel?), other natural source of energy (wind or hydro power? nuclear? dark matter?)\n\n- How much use it's going to get. If you plan on using it once a month, perhaps it makes sense to keep it cheap and simple (hand cranked power). If you plan to use it for a few hours a day, you might want something other than your arms to power it.\n\n- What materials do you have available? If you have a salvaged motor maybe it can be adapted. Or if you have an exercise bike that you don't use anymore, you have half the work done for you.\n\n- What skills and processes do you have available? If you can weld, the standard design of the machines would work for you. If like me, you can't, you'll have to outsource the task to someone else (which can cost you more than you'd like) or redesign it.\n\n- Is it going to be used off-grid? If access to electricity is difficult then that's going to drive the design to a non-electric one." }, { "images": [ @@ -134,7 +134,7 @@ "caption": "", "title": "To weld or not to weld", "_animationKey": "unique3", - "text": "If welding steel is not an option, consider alternative methods for constructing the frame:\n\n- Steel sections can be joined with nuts and bolts, eliminating welding but requiring drilled holes.\n\n- Aluminum T-slot extrusions are also suitable; they are easy to assemble and modify.\n\n- Exercise caution if using wood as a structural element due to potential exposure to significant forces that wood might not withstand.\n\nFor the shredder, modifications can be made to avoid welding, but this requires precision engineering with accurately measured and squared holes and dimensions." + "text": "If you can't weld steel, or don't have access to it, there are other techniques that you can use for the frame:\n\n- Steel sections can be fastened with nuts and bolts. You save the welding time, but need to drill holes instead.\n\n- You can use aluminium extrusion T-slot profiles instead, which are easy to bolt and work with.\n\n- Be careful if you use wood as an structural element. Some parts of the shredder may be subject to strong forces that wood may not resist.\n\nAs for the shredder itself, it can be modified so that it doesn't need welding, but would require a different technique: precision engineering (holes and dimensions need to be very accurate and perfectly square)" }, { "title": "Reduce the speed, increase the torque", @@ -153,11 +153,11 @@ "alt": "Untitl3-2.jpg" } ], - "text": "To enhance shredder performance, it is crucial to achieve high torque, enabling the shredding of plastics up to 1-3 millimeters (0.04-0.12 inches) with ease. The strategy involves reducing machine speed to increase torque. Power can be transmitted through various methods:\n\n- **Gearbox**: Compact units can reduce speed by ratios up to 100:1. They typically contain a worm gear, preventing back-driving during clogs.\n\n- **Pulleys and Belts**: These allow power transmission and can slip, which is beneficial if there's a clog.\n\n- **Gears**\n\n- **Chains and Sprockets**" + "text": "The key in the shredder performance is to make it turn with high torque. That will allow it to shred thicker plastics (1-3 mm) easily. So what we want to do is reduce the speed we apply to the machine and transform it into torque. There are several techniques for power transmission:\n\n- A gearbox. In a very compact unit, we can reduce the speed in ratios of up to 100:1. Usually they have a wormgear internally, so it will block in case of a clog and it won't back-drive.\n\n- Pulleys and belts. The benefit of these are that they can transmit power but they can also slip, which can be good when there's a clog in the shredder.\n\n- Gears\n\n- Chains and sprockets" }, { "_animationKey": "unique295d4", - "text": "Flywheels provide inertia to machines, allowing them to continue moving with minimal input. Place the flywheel on the faster side of your mechanism for optimal performance.\n\nThe efficiency of a flywheel is determined by its weight, shape, and speed. A disc or wheel shape generally works best, and distributing weight away from the axis enhances performance. Higher speeds improve the ability to maintain rotation with minimal effort.\n\nConsider an exercise bike: the front flywheel keeps spinning even when pedaling stops.", + "text": "The magic of the flywheels is that it gives the machine inertia: When it's turning, it keeps the machine moving with little input. Remember to put it on the 'fast' side of your mechanism.\n\nThe factors that influence the efficiency of the flywheel is its weight, shape and speed. Usually a disc or wheel works best, a distribution of weight away from the axis helps. The faster it moves, the better it is at mantaining rotation with little effort.\n\nThink of the exercise bike in the picture: the flywheel on the front will keep turning even if you're not pedalling.", "title": "I believe I can FLYWHEEL", "images": [ { @@ -214,7 +214,7 @@ "alt": "Untitleddaa2.jpg" } ], - "text": "Ensure the installation of guards and covers to prevent fingers from contacting any moving parts, thereby minimizing the risk of injury.", + "text": "Make sure to incorporate guards and covers so that fingers can't reach any moving parts at any points, minimizing the risks of injury", "_animationKey": "uniqueo88rv" } ], @@ -415,9 +415,5 @@ "urls": [] } }, - "content": "The machines are open source, allowing adaptation to your needs. If you'd prefer not to use a motor, alternative manual methods are available to power the shredder.\n\n\nUser Location: Brighton and Hove, United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland (the)\n\nThis guide aims to inspire you in machine design.\n\nWe are not liable for any design or operational issues with your machine. Please consult a professional when necessary.\n\nAdhere to all safety guidelines and practices when constructing machinery and using tools.\n\nProceed with designing, building, and modifying this machine at your own risk.\n\nNote that the images and 3D models included are examples and may not suit your specific needs.\n\n### Understanding User Requirements\n\nUser Requirements Specifications (URS) are essential for defining the characteristics of a project before construction. Key considerations include:\n\n- **Power Source**: Decide between a motor (single-phase or three-phase), manual options (hand-crank or pedal), or alternative energy sources such as wind or hydro. \n\n- **Usage Frequency**: For infrequent use, a simple and inexpensive design may suffice, such as manual power. For frequent use, a more robust power source is advisable.\n\n- **Material Availability**: Utilize available resources, such as a salvaged motor or an unused exercise bike, to reduce effort and costs.\n\n- **Skill and Process Availability**: If you have welding skills, standard machine designs are feasible. Otherwise, consider outsourcing or redesigning, which could increase costs. \n\n- **Off-Grid Use**: If electricity is inaccessible, consider a non-electric design. \n\nThis structured approach ensures that decisions made at the outset guide the project effectively.\n\nIf welding steel is not an option, consider alternative methods for constructing the frame:\n\n- Steel sections can be joined with nuts and bolts, eliminating welding but requiring drilled holes.\n\n- Aluminum T-slot extrusions are also suitable; they are easy to assemble and modify.\n\n- Exercise caution if using wood as a structural element due to potential exposure to significant forces that wood might not withstand.\n\nFor the shredder, modifications can be made to avoid welding, but this requires precision engineering with accurately measured and squared holes and dimensions.\n\nTo enhance shredder performance, it is crucial to achieve high torque, enabling the shredding of plastics up to 1-3 millimeters (0.04-0.12 inches) with ease. The strategy involves reducing machine speed to increase torque. Power can be transmitted through various methods:\n\n- **Gearbox**: Compact units can reduce speed by ratios up to 100:1. They typically contain a worm gear, preventing back-driving during clogs.\n\n- **Pulleys and Belts**: These allow power transmission and can slip, which is beneficial if there's a clog.\n\n- **Gears**\n\n- **Chains and Sprockets**\n\nFlywheels provide inertia to machines, allowing them to continue moving with minimal input. Place the flywheel on the faster side of your mechanism for optimal performance.\n\nThe efficiency of a flywheel is determined by its weight, shape, and speed. A disc or wheel shape generally works best, and distributing weight away from the axis enhances performance. Higher speeds improve the ability to maintain rotation with minimal effort.\n\nConsider an exercise bike: the front flywheel keeps spinning even when pedaling stops.\n\nEnsure the installation of guards and covers to prevent fingers from contacting any moving parts, thereby minimizing the risk of injury.", - "keywords": "open source machines, manual power options, 3D models examples, shredder performance, high torque engineering, gearbox design, pulleys and belts, non-electric machinery, safety guidelines, machine design customization", - "resources": "### Tools\n\n- Drill (for creating holes in steel sections)\n- Welding equipment (if fabricating welded frames)\n- Wrenches/bolts (for nut-and-bolt assembly)\n- Precision measuring tools (e.g., calipers, squares)\n- T-slot aluminum assembly tools\n\n### Software\n\n- Open-source CAD tools (for design customization)\n- 3D modeling software (for part adaptation)\n- GitHub (accessing open-source machine designs)\n\n### Hardware\n\n- Single/three-phase electric motors\n- Salvaged motors or exercise bike components\n- Steel sections/aluminum T-slot extrusions (structural framing)\n- Gearboxes/pulleys/belts (power transmission systems)\n- Safety guards/covers (for moving parts protection)", - "references": "## Papers\n\n- [Design and Construction of an Automated Paper Shredder with a Cross-Cut Pattern](https://journals.nipes.org/index.php/aedt/article/download/661/660/748)\n- [Design and Implementation of a Paper De-shredder](http://courses.ece.ubc.ca/eece412/term_project/reports/2010/deshredder.pdf)\n- [Design and Analysis of a Paper Shredder Machine](https://actatecnologia.eu/issues/2021/III_2021_04_Tung_Ngoc_Quynh_Minh.pdf)\n- [Design and Fabrication of Paper Shredder Machine](https://www.ijser.org/researchpaper/Design-and-Fabrication-of-Paper-Shredder-Machine.pdf)\n\n## Opensource Designs\n\n- [Open Source Shredder v21.10](https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/Open_Source_Shredder_v21.10)\n- Manual Shredder Kit\n- [Open Source Shredder](https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/Open_Source_Shredder)\n- [SHRED-Buddy3D UPcycler](https://builds.openbuilds.com/builds/shred-buddy3d-upcycler-open-source-multi-material-cutter-pelletizer.4275/)\n- Bicycle-Powered Shredder\n- Shredder PRO by WEIMA 1.0\n- Shredder 2.1\n\n## YouTube\n\n- [Build the Shredder (Part 3.1)](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VFIPXgrk7u0)", - "brief": "Open-source machines offer adaptable designs, whether motorized or manual. Consider power sources, usage, and material availability for effective machine building." + "content": "The Precious Plastic machines are open source, which means you can adapt it to your requirements. So if you don't have or don't want to use a motor, there are other more 'humane' ways to power the shredder!\n\n\nUser Location: Brighton and Hove, United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland (the)\n\nBefore we start, let us mention that this guide is supposed to be informative, only for you to be inspired about the possibilities of machine design.\n\nWe're not responsible for the design or (mal)functioning of your machine, please seek professional help when needed.\n\nAlways follow safety recommendations and practices when building machinery and using tools.\n\nDesign, build and hack this machine at your own risk!\n\nThe pictures and 3D models in this guide are from particular one-off designs, not to be taken literally as they may not make sense for your requirements.\n\nOr URS for short is just a fancy way of saying 'identify and define the characteristics of what you want to make'. In other words, before you build the machine, these decisions will have an influence in the design:\n\n- How to power it. You can use a motor (single phase or three phase?), human power (hand-cranked or pedal powered?), animal power (a little hamster in a wheel?), other natural source of energy (wind or hydro power? nuclear? dark matter?)\n\n- How much use it's going to get. If you plan on using it once a month, perhaps it makes sense to keep it cheap and simple (hand cranked power). If you plan to use it for a few hours a day, you might want something other than your arms to power it.\n\n- What materials do you have available? If you have a salvaged motor maybe it can be adapted. Or if you have an exercise bike that you don't use anymore, you have half the work done for you.\n\n- What skills and processes do you have available? If you can weld, the standard design of the machines would work for you. If like me, you can't, you'll have to outsource the task to someone else (which can cost you more than you'd like) or redesign it.\n\n- Is it going to be used off-grid? If access to electricity is difficult then that's going to drive the design to a non-electric one.\n\nIf you can't weld steel, or don't have access to it, there are other techniques that you can use for the frame:\n\n- Steel sections can be fastened with nuts and bolts. You save the welding time, but need to drill holes instead.\n\n- You can use aluminium extrusion T-slot profiles instead, which are easy to bolt and work with.\n\n- Be careful if you use wood as an structural element. Some parts of the shredder may be subject to strong forces that wood may not resist.\n\nAs for the shredder itself, it can be modified so that it doesn't need welding, but would require a different technique: precision engineering (holes and dimensions need to be very accurate and perfectly square)\n\nThe key in the shredder performance is to make it turn with high torque. That will allow it to shred thicker plastics (1-3 mm) easily. So what we want to do is reduce the speed we apply to the machine and transform it into torque. There are several techniques for power transmission:\n\n- A gearbox. In a very compact unit, we can reduce the speed in ratios of up to 100:1. Usually they have a wormgear internally, so it will block in case of a clog and it won't back-drive.\n\n- Pulleys and belts. The benefit of these are that they can transmit power but they can also slip, which can be good when there's a clog in the shredder.\n\n- Gears\n\n- Chains and sprockets\n\nThe magic of the flywheels is that it gives the machine inertia: When it's turning, it keeps the machine moving with little input. Remember to put it on the 'fast' side of your mechanism.\n\nThe factors that influence the efficiency of the flywheel is its weight, shape and speed. Usually a disc or wheel works best, a distribution of weight away from the axis helps. The faster it moves, the better it is at mantaining rotation with little effort.\n\nThink of the exercise bike in the picture: the flywheel on the front will keep turning even if you're not pedalling.\n\nMake sure to incorporate guards and covers so that fingers can't reach any moving parts at any points, minimizing the risks of injury" } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/injection-machine-automatic-connection-upgrade-/README.md b/howtos/injection-machine-automatic-connection-upgrade-/README.md index 94160e15e..2b484a85c 100644 --- a/howtos/injection-machine-automatic-connection-upgrade-/README.md +++ b/howtos/injection-machine-automatic-connection-upgrade-/README.md @@ -1,63 +1,64 @@ --- title: Injection Machine Automatic Connection Upgrade! slug: injection-machine-automatic-connection-upgrade- -description: # How-To Guide for Upgrading Your Injection Machine and Molds - -Improve the speed, safety, and efficiency of your injection process by upgrading your machine and molds. For any injection mold with a threaded connection to the machine nozzle, simply install a brass garden hose connector. +description: This How-To will show you how to upgrade your injection machine and molds to make your injection process faster, safer, and more efficient! +This trick works on any injection mold that have a threaded connection to the machine nozzle. Install a brass garden hose connector and voilà! tags: ["mould","hack","injection"] category: uncategorized difficulty: Medium time: < 5 hours -keywords: injection machine upgrade, mold modification, brass garden hose connector, improve injection efficiency, mold attachment system, quick mold change, reduce production waste, injection molding process, improve operator comfort, plastic injection solutions +keywords: location: --- # Injection Machine Automatic Connection Upgrade! ![Injection Machine Automatic Connection Upgrade! ](cover_photo-17f55b55bf8-181f27fb72f.jpg) -# How-To Guide for Upgrading Your Injection Machine and Molds - -Improve the speed, safety, and efficiency of your injection process by upgrading your machine and molds. For any injection mold with a threaded connection to the machine nozzle, simply install a brass garden hose connector. +This How-To will show you how to upgrade your injection machine and molds to make your injection process faster, safer, and more efficient! +This trick works on any injection mold that have a threaded connection to the machine nozzle. Install a brass garden hose connector and voilà! ## Steps ### Step 1: The problems with injection -The injection machine effectively highlights plastic issues and illustrates the recycling process. However, for high-volume production, it can be slow and challenging. +The injection machine is a great tool to raise awareness about plastic pollution and demonstrate the plastic recycling process. +However if you need to produce many parts, the process can be a little slow and difficult. -Here are the primary issues: +Here are the main problems in my opinion: -- Molds are difficult to attach; they often clog with molten plastic, complicating assembly and necessitating cleaning after each cycle. -- Unmolding is time-consuming; threaded mold connectors create undercuts, complicating unmolding. +-Molds are hard to attach to the machine ---> Often get clogged up by molten plastic, making the assembly difficult and require cleaning between each cycle -The upgrade system must accomplish the following: +-Unmolding takes time---> Threaded mold connectors create undercut shapes, making unmolding difficult -1. Enable single-movement mold attachment and detachment -2. Improve operator comfort -3. Minimize production waste -4. Allow use with gloves -5. Reduce cycle time -6. Eliminate the need for cleaning between cycles -Using a brass garden hose connector, found at garden and home improvement stores, can facilitate efficient mold connection. +Here are the specifications that the upgrade system must achieve: + +1- Allow molds to be attached and detached from the machine in 1 movement +2- Reduce uncomfortable position for the operator +3- Reduce production waste +4- Be usable with gloves easily +5- Reduce cycle time +6- Do not require cleaning between each cycle + +The trick is to use a brass garden hose connector, available in gardening and home improvement store, to easily connect your mold ans be more efficient! ![275307773_1610900732620071_259246987581359556_n-17fc0068fcc-181f27fa54b.png](./275307773_1610900732620071_259246987581359556_n-17fc0068fcc-181f27fa54b.png) ### Step 2: Bill of materials: -You'll need: +You'll need : -- 1 x 1-inch female brass garden hose connector with external threads -- 2 x 1/2-inch male brass garden hose connector with internal threads (or another size to fit your mold) -- 1 x 1/2-inch brass endcap +x1 1 inch female brass garden hose connector with EXTERNAL threads (picture n°2) +x2 1/2" inch male brass garden hose connector (or any other size depending on what fits on your mold), with INTERNAL threads (picture n°3) +x1 1/2" inch brass endcap (picture n°1) +You'll find all of this in your local hardware/gardening store. -These items are available at most hardware or gardening stores. +1 - 14mm long piece of M14 threaded rod (or a 14mm diameter round stock (Edit: for this tutorial I used M 14 threaded rod because the exterior diameter is the right size for the application, but you can use any other 14mm round stock you have on hand, the exterior threads are not needed) -- 14mm (9/16-inch) long piece of M14 threaded rod or 14mm (9/16-inch) diameter round stock (M14 threaded rod is recommended for its suitable diameter, though any 14mm round stock will suffice) -- 10mm (3/8-inch) drill bit -- A drill and a vise +1- 10mm drill bit +A drill and a vise -Note: Ensure compatibility with your machine and mold; verify dimensions. +ATTENTION: Buy the right hardware for your particular machine and mold! Check dimensions -Metric to inch equivalents: -1/2 inch = 15x21 threads +Metric to inch equivalent: +1/2 " = 15x21 threads ![endcap-181f27c2b29.jpg](./endcap-181f27c2b29.jpg) @@ -70,13 +71,15 @@ Metric to inch equivalents: ### Step 3: Spacer fabrication -Begin by fabricating a spacer: a cylinder with a 14 mm (0.55 inches) diameter and a 10 mm (0.39 inches) central hole. Refer to the plans below. +The first step is to fabricate a spacer: basically a 14mm diameter cylinder with a 10 mm hole in the middle (see plans below). +You can use M14 threaded rod a screw as it is easily available, but a 14 mm round stock is ok. + +Using a drill and a vise, drill a 10 mm hole trough the hole spacer. + +Make sure your spacer fits nicely in both the male connector and the 1/4 inch adaptor to prevent leakage later on. -An M14 threaded rod or screw is suitable and commonly available, but a 14 mm (0.55 inches) round stock is also acceptable. -Using a drill and vise, create the 10 mm (0.39 inches) hole through the spacer. -Ensure the spacer fits well in both the male connector and the 1/4 inch (6.35 mm) adaptor to prevent leakage. ![Plan entretoise-181f27c7a10.JPG](./Plan_entretoise-181f27c7a10.JPG) @@ -89,21 +92,28 @@ Ensure the spacer fits well in both the male connector and the 1/4 inch (6.35 mm ### Step 4: Assembly steps -# Modify Your Mold +I-Modify your mold -1. Insert the spacer into the mold's 1/2 inch (12.7 mm) connector, ensuring it fits snugly and occupies most of the empty space. -2. Attach the male brass connector on top. -3. Drill through all parts with a 10 mm (0.39 inch) drill bit to enlarge the hole to 10 mm (0.39 inch). Ensure precise drilling to avoid damaging the threads. + -Repeat these steps for each mold to fit them all with male connectors for convenience. + 1- Place the spacer inside your mold's ½ inch connector, it should fit inside snugly and fill the most of the empty space. -# Assemble Your Plug + 2- Screw the male brass connector on top of it -- Attach the second male connector to the end cap to create your new plug. + 3- Drill with the 10 mm drill trough all the parts to enlarge the hole diameter up to 10 mm. -# Modify Your Injection Machine + Be careful to drill right in the center, otherwise you can damage the threads. -- Remove the current threaded nozzle and replace it with the brass female connector. +You'll have to repeat those steps for each one of your molds (once the mold have been used, it is inconvenient to remove the male connector and spacer inside, it is easier to fit all your molds with male connectors) + + +II- Assemble your plug: + + - Simply take the second male connector and screw it to the end cap --> Here's your new plug :) (Picture n°1) + +III- Modify your injection machine + + -Unscrew the current threaded nozzle of your machine and replace it with the brass female connector! ![screwing instructions-181f27cc27d.jpg](./screwing_instructions-181f27cc27d.jpg) @@ -116,19 +126,19 @@ Repeat these steps for each mold to fit them all with male connectors for conven ### Step 5: Instructions for operation -1. Prepare your mold and heat the machine. +1 - Prepare your mold as usual and heat up your machine -2. To inject, lift the female connector's exterior ring to remove the plug. +2- When you are ready to inject, remove the plug by simply lifting the female connector exterior ring (picture n°2) -3. Push the mold into the connector, which will latch with a "click." +3-Push your mold up into the connector, it will automatically latch onto it and make a nice "click" sound -4. Inject into the mold. +4- Inject your mold -5. To remove, lift the connector ring and extract the mold, then replace the plug. +5- To remove the mold, just lift the female connector exterior ring and get your mold, then place the plug back inside. -6. Repeat as necessary. +6-Repeat :) -This method achieved approximately 15 injections per hour, surpassing previous results. +Using this method, I was able to pull out about 15 injections/ hour, which is way more than I used to. ![IMG_20220711_114025_01-181f27d77c5.jpg](./IMG_20220711_114025_01-181f27d77c5.jpg) @@ -141,9 +151,9 @@ This method achieved approximately 15 injections per hour, surpassing previous r ### Step 6: No more undercut shapes! -The rod fills the void inside the male connector, allowing molten plastic to flow through the 10 mm (0.39 inches) channel. This enables easy removal of the sprue from the mold (see Picture 1). +The piece of rod is here to fill the void inside the male connector. The molten plastic can then flows through the 10 mm round channel, and the sprue can be pulled out from the mold easily (Picture N°1) -Attention: Remember the spacer to ensure smooth unmolding (see Picture 2). +ATTENTION: Don't forget the spacer, otherwise you are going to have a bad time unmold (picture n°2). ![IMG_20220711_114417-181f27e3384.jpg](./IMG_20220711_114417-181f27e3384.jpg) @@ -155,49 +165,4 @@ Attention: Remember the spacer to ensure smooth unmolding (see Picture 2). ![With treadedrod-17fc75b2daa-181f27f5598.png](./With_treadedrod-17fc75b2daa-181f27f5598.png) ## Resources -### Tools & Equipment - -- Drill -- Vise -- 10mm (3/8-inch) drill bit - -### Hardware Components - -- 1-inch female brass garden hose connector (external threads) -- 2 x 1/2-inch male brass garden hose connectors (internal threads) -- 1 x 1/2-inch brass endcap -- 14mm M14 threaded rod or 14mm round stock - -### Notes - -- Metric to inch equivalents: Use 15x21 threads for 1/2-inch connectors -- Verify compatibility with your machine and mold dimensions before installation -- No software required for this mechanical upgrade -## References -## Articles - -- [Optimize the Injection Molding Process in 8 Easy Steps](https://www.kaysun.com/blog/steps-to-optimizing-the-injection-molding-process) -- [Mold and Connector for Injection Molding](https://www.instructables.com/Mold-and-Connector-for-Injection-Molding/) -- [DIY Injection Molding: How to Mold Plastic Parts In-House](https://formlabs.com/blog/diy-injection-molding/) -- [A Step by Step Guide to Injection Molding](https://sybridge.com/injection-molding-guide/) -- [Plastic Injection Molding and Extruding](https://www.instructables.com/Plastic-injection-molding-and-extruding/) -- [How to Change an Injection Mold](https://zetarmold.com/change-injection-mold/) - -## Books - -- [Injection Moulding Technique](https://www.empyrealpublishinghouse.com/pdf/book03.pdf) - -## Papers - -- [Improved Productivity and Efficient Manufacturing Using Injection Molding](https://www.ijraset.com/research-paper/improved-productivity-and-efficient-manufacturing-using-injection-molding) - -## YouTube - -- [Electronic Connector Production on All-Electric Injection Moulding Machine](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XJ0nsXeAL2s) -- [How to Use Brass Inserts on 3D Prints](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KC1LLU54DKU) - -## Open Source Designs - -- [Injection Molding Simulation Solver](https://forum.freecad.org/viewtopic.php?t=56446) -- Injection Machine Quick Connect Upgrade -- Injection Machine Automatic Connection Upgrade \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/injection-machine-automatic-connection-upgrade-/config.json b/howtos/injection-machine-automatic-connection-upgrade-/config.json index a39050dc5..7d3404445 100644 --- a/howtos/injection-machine-automatic-connection-upgrade-/config.json +++ b/howtos/injection-machine-automatic-connection-upgrade-/config.json @@ -2,7 +2,7 @@ "steps": [ { "_animationKey": "unique1", - "text": "The injection machine effectively highlights plastic issues and illustrates the recycling process. However, for high-volume production, it can be slow and challenging.\n\nHere are the primary issues:\n\n- Molds are difficult to attach; they often clog with molten plastic, complicating assembly and necessitating cleaning after each cycle.\n- Unmolding is time-consuming; threaded mold connectors create undercuts, complicating unmolding.\n\nThe upgrade system must accomplish the following:\n\n1. Enable single-movement mold attachment and detachment\n2. Improve operator comfort\n3. Minimize production waste\n4. Allow use with gloves\n5. Reduce cycle time\n6. Eliminate the need for cleaning between cycles\n\nUsing a brass garden hose connector, found at garden and home improvement stores, can facilitate efficient mold connection.", + "text": "The injection machine is a great tool to raise awareness about plastic pollution and demonstrate the plastic recycling process.\nHowever if you need to produce many parts, the process can be a little slow and difficult.\n\nHere are the main problems in my opinion:\n\n-Molds are hard to attach to the machine ---> Often get clogged up by molten plastic, making the assembly difficult and require cleaning between each cycle\n\n-Unmolding takes time---> Threaded mold connectors create undercut shapes, making unmolding difficult\n\n\nHere are the specifications that the upgrade system must achieve:\n\n1-\tAllow molds to be attached and detached from the machine in 1 movement\n2-\tReduce uncomfortable position for the operator\n3-\tReduce production waste\n4-\tBe usable with gloves easily \n5-\tReduce cycle time\n6-\tDo not require cleaning between each cycle\n\nThe trick is to use a brass garden hose connector, available in gardening and home improvement store, to easily connect your mold ans be more efficient!", "title": "The problems with injection", "images": [ { @@ -60,10 +60,10 @@ } ], "_animationKey": "unique2", - "text": "You'll need:\n\n- 1 x 1-inch female brass garden hose connector with external threads\n- 2 x 1/2-inch male brass garden hose connector with internal threads (or another size to fit your mold)\n- 1 x 1/2-inch brass endcap\n\nThese items are available at most hardware or gardening stores.\n\n- 14mm (9/16-inch) long piece of M14 threaded rod or 14mm (9/16-inch) diameter round stock (M14 threaded rod is recommended for its suitable diameter, though any 14mm round stock will suffice)\n- 10mm (3/8-inch) drill bit\n- A drill and a vise\n\nNote: Ensure compatibility with your machine and mold; verify dimensions. \n\nMetric to inch equivalents: \n1/2 inch = 15x21 threads" + "text": "You'll need :\n\nx1 1 inch female brass garden hose connector with EXTERNAL threads (picture n°2)\nx2 1/2\" inch male brass garden hose connector (or any other size depending on what fits on your mold), with INTERNAL threads (picture n°3)\nx1 1/2\" inch brass endcap (picture n°1)\nYou'll find all of this in your local hardware/gardening store.\n\n1 - 14mm long piece of M14 threaded rod (or a 14mm diameter round stock (Edit: for this tutorial I used M 14 threaded rod because the exterior diameter is the right size for the application, but you can use any other 14mm round stock you have on hand, the exterior threads are not needed)\n\n1- 10mm drill bit \nA drill and a vise\n\nATTENTION: Buy the right hardware for your particular machine and mold! Check dimensions\n\nMetric to inch equivalent: \n1/2 \" = 15x21 threads" }, { - "text": "Begin by fabricating a spacer: a cylinder with a 14 mm (0.55 inches) diameter and a 10 mm (0.39 inches) central hole. Refer to the plans below. \n\nAn M14 threaded rod or screw is suitable and commonly available, but a 14 mm (0.55 inches) round stock is also acceptable.\n\nUsing a drill and vise, create the 10 mm (0.39 inches) hole through the spacer.\n\nEnsure the spacer fits well in both the male connector and the 1/4 inch (6.35 mm) adaptor to prevent leakage.", + "text": "The first step is to fabricate a spacer: basically a 14mm diameter cylinder with a 10 mm hole in the middle (see plans below).\nYou can use M14 threaded rod a screw as it is easily available, but a 14 mm round stock is ok.\n\nUsing a drill and a vise, drill a 10 mm hole trough the hole spacer.\n\nMake sure your spacer fits nicely in both the male connector and the 1/4 inch adaptor to prevent leakage later on. \n\n\n", "images": [ { "name": "Plan entretoise-181f27c7a10.JPG", @@ -107,7 +107,7 @@ }, { "title": "Assembly steps", - "text": "# Modify Your Mold\n\n1. Insert the spacer into the mold's 1/2 inch (12.7 mm) connector, ensuring it fits snugly and occupies most of the empty space.\n2. Attach the male brass connector on top.\n3. Drill through all parts with a 10 mm (0.39 inch) drill bit to enlarge the hole to 10 mm (0.39 inch). Ensure precise drilling to avoid damaging the threads.\n\nRepeat these steps for each mold to fit them all with male connectors for convenience.\n\n# Assemble Your Plug\n\n- Attach the second male connector to the end cap to create your new plug.\n\n# Modify Your Injection Machine\n\n- Remove the current threaded nozzle and replace it with the brass female connector.", + "text": "I-Modify your mold\n\n \n\n 1- Place the spacer inside your mold's ½ inch connector, it should fit inside snugly and fill the most of the empty space.\n\n 2- Screw the male brass connector on top of it\n\n 3- Drill with the 10 mm drill trough all the parts to enlarge the hole diameter up to 10 mm.\n\n Be careful to drill right in the center, otherwise you can damage the threads.\n\nYou'll have to repeat those steps for each one of your molds (once the mold have been used, it is inconvenient to remove the male connector and spacer inside, it is easier to fit all your molds with male connectors)\n\n\nII- Assemble your plug:\n\n - Simply take the second male connector and screw it to the end cap --> Here's your new plug :) (Picture n°1)\n\nIII- Modify your injection machine \n\n -Unscrew the current threaded nozzle of your machine and replace it with the brass female connector!", "images": [ { "updated": "2022-07-12T13:01:23.633Z", @@ -149,7 +149,7 @@ "_animationKey": "unique2774" }, { - "text": "1. Prepare your mold and heat the machine.\n\n2. To inject, lift the female connector's exterior ring to remove the plug.\n\n3. Push the mold into the connector, which will latch with a \"click.\"\n\n4. Inject into the mold.\n\n5. To remove, lift the connector ring and extract the mold, then replace the plug.\n\n6. Repeat as necessary.\n\nThis method achieved approximately 15 injections per hour, surpassing previous results.", + "text": "1 - Prepare your mold as usual and heat up your machine\n\n2- When you are ready to inject, remove the plug by simply lifting the female connector exterior ring (picture n°2)\n\n3-Push your mold up into the connector, it will automatically latch onto it and make a nice \"click\" sound\n\n4- Inject your mold\n\n5- To remove the mold, just lift the female connector exterior ring and get your mold, then place the plug back inside.\n\n6-Repeat :)\n\nUsing this method, I was able to pull out about 15 injections/ hour, which is way more than I used to.", "_animationKey": "uniqueavbt0c", "title": "Instructions for operation", "images": [ @@ -192,7 +192,7 @@ ] }, { - "text": "The rod fills the void inside the male connector, allowing molten plastic to flow through the 10 mm (0.39 inches) channel. This enables easy removal of the sprue from the mold (see Picture 1).\n\nAttention: Remember the spacer to ensure smooth unmolding (see Picture 2).", + "text": "The piece of rod is here to fill the void inside the male connector. The molten plastic can then flows through the 10 mm round channel, and the sprue can be pulled out from the mold easily (Picture N°1)\n\nATTENTION: Don't forget the spacer, otherwise you are going to have a bad time unmold (picture n°2).", "_animationKey": "unique3fihz4", "images": [ { @@ -256,7 +256,7 @@ "fileLink": "", "total_views": 235, "title": "Injection Machine Automatic Connection Upgrade! ", - "description": "# How-To Guide for Upgrading Your Injection Machine and Molds\n\nImprove the speed, safety, and efficiency of your injection process by upgrading your machine and molds. For any injection mold with a threaded connection to the machine nozzle, simply install a brass garden hose connector.", + "description": "This How-To will show you how to upgrade your injection machine and molds to make your injection process faster, safer, and more efficient!\nThis trick works on any injection mold that have a threaded connection to the machine nozzle. Install a brass garden hose connector and voilà!", "_createdBy": "precious-plastic-ajaccio", "_contentModifiedTimestamp": "2023-06-14T11:02:20.781Z", "files": [], @@ -278,9 +278,5 @@ "category": { "label": "uncategorized" }, - "content": "# How-To Guide for Upgrading Your Injection Machine and Molds\n\nImprove the speed, safety, and efficiency of your injection process by upgrading your machine and molds. For any injection mold with a threaded connection to the machine nozzle, simply install a brass garden hose connector.\n\nThe injection machine effectively highlights plastic issues and illustrates the recycling process. However, for high-volume production, it can be slow and challenging.\n\nHere are the primary issues:\n\n- Molds are difficult to attach; they often clog with molten plastic, complicating assembly and necessitating cleaning after each cycle.\n- Unmolding is time-consuming; threaded mold connectors create undercuts, complicating unmolding.\n\nThe upgrade system must accomplish the following:\n\n1. Enable single-movement mold attachment and detachment\n2. Improve operator comfort\n3. Minimize production waste\n4. Allow use with gloves\n5. Reduce cycle time\n6. Eliminate the need for cleaning between cycles\n\nUsing a brass garden hose connector, found at garden and home improvement stores, can facilitate efficient mold connection.\n\nYou'll need:\n\n- 1 x 1-inch female brass garden hose connector with external threads\n- 2 x 1/2-inch male brass garden hose connector with internal threads (or another size to fit your mold)\n- 1 x 1/2-inch brass endcap\n\nThese items are available at most hardware or gardening stores.\n\n- 14mm (9/16-inch) long piece of M14 threaded rod or 14mm (9/16-inch) diameter round stock (M14 threaded rod is recommended for its suitable diameter, though any 14mm round stock will suffice)\n- 10mm (3/8-inch) drill bit\n- A drill and a vise\n\nNote: Ensure compatibility with your machine and mold; verify dimensions. \n\nMetric to inch equivalents: \n1/2 inch = 15x21 threads\n\nBegin by fabricating a spacer: a cylinder with a 14 mm (0.55 inches) diameter and a 10 mm (0.39 inches) central hole. Refer to the plans below. \n\nAn M14 threaded rod or screw is suitable and commonly available, but a 14 mm (0.55 inches) round stock is also acceptable.\n\nUsing a drill and vise, create the 10 mm (0.39 inches) hole through the spacer.\n\nEnsure the spacer fits well in both the male connector and the 1/4 inch (6.35 mm) adaptor to prevent leakage.\n\n# Modify Your Mold\n\n1. Insert the spacer into the mold's 1/2 inch (12.7 mm) connector, ensuring it fits snugly and occupies most of the empty space.\n2. Attach the male brass connector on top.\n3. Drill through all parts with a 10 mm (0.39 inch) drill bit to enlarge the hole to 10 mm (0.39 inch). Ensure precise drilling to avoid damaging the threads.\n\nRepeat these steps for each mold to fit them all with male connectors for convenience.\n\n# Assemble Your Plug\n\n- Attach the second male connector to the end cap to create your new plug.\n\n# Modify Your Injection Machine\n\n- Remove the current threaded nozzle and replace it with the brass female connector.\n\n1. Prepare your mold and heat the machine.\n\n2. To inject, lift the female connector's exterior ring to remove the plug.\n\n3. Push the mold into the connector, which will latch with a \"click.\"\n\n4. Inject into the mold.\n\n5. To remove, lift the connector ring and extract the mold, then replace the plug.\n\n6. Repeat as necessary.\n\nThis method achieved approximately 15 injections per hour, surpassing previous results.\n\nThe rod fills the void inside the male connector, allowing molten plastic to flow through the 10 mm (0.39 inches) channel. This enables easy removal of the sprue from the mold (see Picture 1).\n\nAttention: Remember the spacer to ensure smooth unmolding (see Picture 2).", - "keywords": "injection machine upgrade, mold modification, brass garden hose connector, improve injection efficiency, mold attachment system, quick mold change, reduce production waste, injection molding process, improve operator comfort, plastic injection solutions", - "resources": "### Tools & Equipment\n\n- Drill\n- Vise\n- 10mm (3/8-inch) drill bit\n\n### Hardware Components\n\n- 1-inch female brass garden hose connector (external threads)\n- 2 x 1/2-inch male brass garden hose connectors (internal threads)\n- 1 x 1/2-inch brass endcap\n- 14mm M14 threaded rod or 14mm round stock\n\n### Notes\n\n- Metric to inch equivalents: Use 15x21 threads for 1/2-inch connectors\n- Verify compatibility with your machine and mold dimensions before installation\n- No software required for this mechanical upgrade", - "references": "## Articles\n\n- [Optimize the Injection Molding Process in 8 Easy Steps](https://www.kaysun.com/blog/steps-to-optimizing-the-injection-molding-process)\n- [Mold and Connector for Injection Molding](https://www.instructables.com/Mold-and-Connector-for-Injection-Molding/)\n- [DIY Injection Molding: How to Mold Plastic Parts In-House](https://formlabs.com/blog/diy-injection-molding/)\n- [A Step by Step Guide to Injection Molding](https://sybridge.com/injection-molding-guide/)\n- [Plastic Injection Molding and Extruding](https://www.instructables.com/Plastic-injection-molding-and-extruding/)\n- [How to Change an Injection Mold](https://zetarmold.com/change-injection-mold/)\n\n## Books\n\n- [Injection Moulding Technique](https://www.empyrealpublishinghouse.com/pdf/book03.pdf)\n\n## Papers\n\n- [Improved Productivity and Efficient Manufacturing Using Injection Molding](https://www.ijraset.com/research-paper/improved-productivity-and-efficient-manufacturing-using-injection-molding)\n\n## YouTube\n\n- [Electronic Connector Production on All-Electric Injection Moulding Machine](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XJ0nsXeAL2s)\n- [How to Use Brass Inserts on 3D Prints](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KC1LLU54DKU)\n\n## Open Source Designs\n\n- [Injection Molding Simulation Solver](https://forum.freecad.org/viewtopic.php?t=56446)\n- Injection Machine Quick Connect Upgrade\n- Injection Machine Automatic Connection Upgrade", - "brief": "Upgrade your injection machine and molds for enhanced speed, safety, and efficiency. Use brass garden hose connectors to simplify attachment, reduce waste, and cut cycle time." + "content": "This How-To will show you how to upgrade your injection machine and molds to make your injection process faster, safer, and more efficient!\nThis trick works on any injection mold that have a threaded connection to the machine nozzle. Install a brass garden hose connector and voilà!\n\nThe injection machine is a great tool to raise awareness about plastic pollution and demonstrate the plastic recycling process.\nHowever if you need to produce many parts, the process can be a little slow and difficult.\n\nHere are the main problems in my opinion:\n\n-Molds are hard to attach to the machine ---> Often get clogged up by molten plastic, making the assembly difficult and require cleaning between each cycle\n\n-Unmolding takes time---> Threaded mold connectors create undercut shapes, making unmolding difficult\n\n\nHere are the specifications that the upgrade system must achieve:\n\n1-\tAllow molds to be attached and detached from the machine in 1 movement\n2-\tReduce uncomfortable position for the operator\n3-\tReduce production waste\n4-\tBe usable with gloves easily \n5-\tReduce cycle time\n6-\tDo not require cleaning between each cycle\n\nThe trick is to use a brass garden hose connector, available in gardening and home improvement store, to easily connect your mold ans be more efficient!\n\nYou'll need :\n\nx1 1 inch female brass garden hose connector with EXTERNAL threads (picture n°2)\nx2 1/2\" inch male brass garden hose connector (or any other size depending on what fits on your mold), with INTERNAL threads (picture n°3)\nx1 1/2\" inch brass endcap (picture n°1)\nYou'll find all of this in your local hardware/gardening store.\n\n1 - 14mm long piece of M14 threaded rod (or a 14mm diameter round stock (Edit: for this tutorial I used M 14 threaded rod because the exterior diameter is the right size for the application, but you can use any other 14mm round stock you have on hand, the exterior threads are not needed)\n\n1- 10mm drill bit \nA drill and a vise\n\nATTENTION: Buy the right hardware for your particular machine and mold! Check dimensions\n\nMetric to inch equivalent: \n1/2 \" = 15x21 threads\n\nThe first step is to fabricate a spacer: basically a 14mm diameter cylinder with a 10 mm hole in the middle (see plans below).\nYou can use M14 threaded rod a screw as it is easily available, but a 14 mm round stock is ok.\n\nUsing a drill and a vise, drill a 10 mm hole trough the hole spacer.\n\nMake sure your spacer fits nicely in both the male connector and the 1/4 inch adaptor to prevent leakage later on. \n\n\n\n\nI-Modify your mold\n\n \n\n 1- Place the spacer inside your mold's ½ inch connector, it should fit inside snugly and fill the most of the empty space.\n\n 2- Screw the male brass connector on top of it\n\n 3- Drill with the 10 mm drill trough all the parts to enlarge the hole diameter up to 10 mm.\n\n Be careful to drill right in the center, otherwise you can damage the threads.\n\nYou'll have to repeat those steps for each one of your molds (once the mold have been used, it is inconvenient to remove the male connector and spacer inside, it is easier to fit all your molds with male connectors)\n\n\nII- Assemble your plug:\n\n - Simply take the second male connector and screw it to the end cap --> Here's your new plug :) (Picture n°1)\n\nIII- Modify your injection machine \n\n -Unscrew the current threaded nozzle of your machine and replace it with the brass female connector!\n\n1 - Prepare your mold as usual and heat up your machine\n\n2- When you are ready to inject, remove the plug by simply lifting the female connector exterior ring (picture n°2)\n\n3-Push your mold up into the connector, it will automatically latch onto it and make a nice \"click\" sound\n\n4- Inject your mold\n\n5- To remove the mold, just lift the female connector exterior ring and get your mold, then place the plug back inside.\n\n6-Repeat :)\n\nUsing this method, I was able to pull out about 15 injections/ hour, which is way more than I used to.\n\nThe piece of rod is here to fill the void inside the male connector. The molten plastic can then flows through the 10 mm round channel, and the sprue can be pulled out from the mold easily (Picture N°1)\n\nATTENTION: Don't forget the spacer, otherwise you are going to have a bad time unmold (picture n°2)." } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/injection-machine-automatic-connection-upgrade/README.md b/howtos/injection-machine-automatic-connection-upgrade/README.md index a8e18e894..23afb34a1 100644 --- a/howtos/injection-machine-automatic-connection-upgrade/README.md +++ b/howtos/injection-machine-automatic-connection-upgrade/README.md @@ -1,65 +1,66 @@ --- title: Injection Machine Automatic Connection Upgrade slug: injection-machine-automatic-connection-upgrade -description: # How-To Guide for Upgrading Your Injection Machine and Molds - -Improve the speed, safety, and efficiency of your injection process by upgrading your machine and molds. For any injection mold with a threaded connection to the machine nozzle, simply install a brass garden hose connector. +description: This How-To will show you how to upgrade your injection machine and molds to make your injection process faster, safer, and more efficient! +This trick works on any injection mold that have a threaded connection to the machine nozzle. Install a brass garden hose connector and voilà! tags: ["mould","injection","hack"] category: uncategorized difficulty: Easy time: < 5 hours -keywords: upgrading injection machine, mold improvement, injection molding efficiency, brass garden hose connector, injection mold connector, improve production speed, injection machine upgrade, mold attachment system, reduce cycle time, operator comfort +keywords: location: Ajaccio, France --- # Injection Machine Automatic Connection Upgrade ![Injection Machine Automatic Connection Upgrade](cover_photo-17f55b55bf8.jpg) -# How-To Guide for Upgrading Your Injection Machine and Molds - -Improve the speed, safety, and efficiency of your injection process by upgrading your machine and molds. For any injection mold with a threaded connection to the machine nozzle, simply install a brass garden hose connector. +This How-To will show you how to upgrade your injection machine and molds to make your injection process faster, safer, and more efficient! +This trick works on any injection mold that have a threaded connection to the machine nozzle. Install a brass garden hose connector and voilà! User Location: Ajaccio, France ## Steps ### Step 1: The problems with injection -The injection machine effectively highlights plastic issues and illustrates the recycling process. However, for high-volume production, it can be slow and challenging. +The injection machine is a great tool to raise awareness about plastic pollution and demonstrate the plastic recycling process. +However if you need to produce many parts, the process can be a little slow and difficult. -Here are the primary issues: +Here are the main problems in my opinion: -- Molds are difficult to attach; they often clog with molten plastic, complicating assembly and necessitating cleaning after each cycle. -- Unmolding is time-consuming; threaded mold connectors create undercuts, complicating unmolding. +-Molds are hard to attach to the machine ---> Often get clogged up by molten plastic, making the assembly difficult and require cleaning between each cycle -The upgrade system must accomplish the following: +-Unmolding takes time---> Threaded mold connectors create undercut shapes, making unmolding difficult -1. Enable single-movement mold attachment and detachment -2. Improve operator comfort -3. Minimize production waste -4. Allow use with gloves -5. Reduce cycle time -6. Eliminate the need for cleaning between cycles -Using a brass garden hose connector, found at garden and home improvement stores, can facilitate efficient mold connection. +Here are the specifications that the upgrade system must achieve: + +1- Allow molds to be attached and detached from the machine in 1 movement +2- Reduce uncomfortable position for the operator +3- Reduce production waste +4- Be usable with gloves easily +5- Reduce cycle time +6- Do not require cleaning between each cycle + +The trick is to use a brass garden hose connector, available in gardening and home improvement store, to easily connect your mold ans be more efficient! ![275307773_1610900732620071_259246987581359556_n-17fc0068fcc.png](./275307773_1610900732620071_259246987581359556_n-17fc0068fcc.png) ### Step 2: Bill of materials: -You'll need: +You'll need : -- 1 x 1-inch female brass garden hose connector with external threads -- 2 x 1/2-inch male brass garden hose connector with internal threads (or another size to fit your mold) -- 1 x 1/2-inch brass endcap +x1 1 inch female brass garden hose connector with EXTERNAL threads (picture n°2) +x2 1/2" inch male brass garden hose connector (or any other size depending on what fits on your mold), with INTERNAL threads (picture n°3) +x1 1/2" inch brass endcap (picture n°1) +You'll find all of this in your local hardware/gardening store. -These items are available at most hardware or gardening stores. +1 - 14mm long piece of M14 threaded rod (or a 14mm diameter round stock (Edit: for this tutorial I used M 14 threaded rod because the exterior diameter is the right size for the application, but you can use any other 14mm round stock you have on hand, the exterior threads are not needed) -- 14mm (9/16-inch) long piece of M14 threaded rod or 14mm (9/16-inch) diameter round stock (M14 threaded rod is recommended for its suitable diameter, though any 14mm round stock will suffice) -- 10mm (3/8-inch) drill bit -- A drill and a vise +1- 10mm drill bit +A drill and a vise -Note: Ensure compatibility with your machine and mold; verify dimensions. +ATTENTION: Buy the right hardware for your particular machine and mold! Check dimensions -Metric to inch equivalents: -1/2 inch = 15x21 threads +Metric to inch equivalent: +1/2 " = 15x21 threads ![endcap-17fc09309eb.jpg](./endcap-17fc09309eb.jpg) @@ -72,13 +73,15 @@ Metric to inch equivalents: ### Step 3: Spacer fabrication -Begin by fabricating a spacer: a cylinder with a 14 mm (0.55 inches) diameter and a 10 mm (0.39 inches) central hole. Refer to the plans below. +The first step is to fabricate a spacer: basically a 14mm diameter cylinder with a 10 mm hole in the middle (see plans below). +You can use M14 threaded rod a screw as it is easily available, but a 14 mm round stock is ok. + +Using a drill and a vise, drill a 10 mm hole trough the hole spacer. + +Make sure your spacer fits nicely in both the male connector and the 1/4 inch adaptor to prevent leakage later on. -An M14 threaded rod or screw is suitable and commonly available, but a 14 mm (0.55 inches) round stock is also acceptable. -Using a drill and vise, create the 10 mm (0.39 inches) hole through the spacer. -Ensure the spacer fits well in both the male connector and the 1/4 inch (6.35 mm) adaptor to prevent leakage. ![Plan entretoise-181eccc3db9.JPG](./Plan_entretoise-181eccc3db9.JPG) @@ -91,21 +94,28 @@ Ensure the spacer fits well in both the male connector and the 1/4 inch (6.35 mm ### Step 4: Assembly steps -# Modify Your Mold +I-Modify your mold -1. Insert the spacer into the mold's 1/2 inch (12.7 mm) connector, ensuring it fits snugly and occupies most of the empty space. -2. Attach the male brass connector on top. -3. Drill through all parts with a 10 mm (0.39 inch) drill bit to enlarge the hole to 10 mm (0.39 inch). Ensure precise drilling to avoid damaging the threads. + -Repeat these steps for each mold to fit them all with male connectors for convenience. + 1- Place the spacer inside your mold's ½ inch connector, it should fit inside snugly and fill the most of the empty space. -# Assemble Your Plug + 2- Screw the male brass connector on top of it -- Attach the second male connector to the end cap to create your new plug. + 3- Drill with the 10 mm drill trough all the parts to enlarge the hole diameter up to 10 mm. -# Modify Your Injection Machine + Be careful to drill right in the center, otherwise you can damage the threads. -- Remove the current threaded nozzle and replace it with the brass female connector. +You'll have to repeat those steps for each one of your molds (once the mold have been used, it is inconvenient to remove the male connector and spacer inside, it is easier to fit all your molds with male connectors) + + +II- Assemble your plug: + + - Simply take the second male connector and screw it to the end cap --> Here's your new plug :) (Picture n°1) + +III- Modify your injection machine + + -Unscrew the current threaded nozzle of your machine and replace it with the brass female connector! ![screwing instructions-181ed0c4655.jpg](./screwing_instructions-181ed0c4655.jpg) @@ -118,19 +128,19 @@ Repeat these steps for each mold to fit them all with male connectors for conven ### Step 5: Instructions for operation -1. Prepare your mold and heat the machine. +1 - Prepare your mold as usual and heat up your machine -2. To inject, lift the female connector's exterior ring to remove the plug. +2- When you are ready to inject, remove the plug by simply lifting the female connector exterior ring (picture n°2) -3. Push the mold into the connector, which will latch with a "click." +3-Push your mold up into the connector, it will automatically latch onto it and make a nice "click" sound -4. Inject into the mold. +4- Inject your mold -5. To remove, lift the connector ring and extract the mold, then replace the plug. +5- To remove the mold, just lift the female connector exterior ring and get your mold, then place the plug back inside. -6. Repeat as necessary. +6-Repeat :) -This method achieved approximately 15 injections per hour, surpassing previous results. +Using this method, I was able to pull out about 15 injections/ hour, which is way more than I used to. ![IMG_20220711_114025_01-181ecbc4c5d.jpg](./IMG_20220711_114025_01-181ecbc4c5d.jpg) @@ -143,9 +153,9 @@ This method achieved approximately 15 injections per hour, surpassing previous r ### Step 6: No more undercut shapes! -The rod fills the void inside the male connector, allowing molten plastic to flow through the 10 mm (0.39 inches) channel. This enables easy removal of the sprue from the mold (see Picture 1). +The piece of rod is here to fill the void inside the male connector. The molten plastic can then flows through the 10 mm round channel, and the sprue can be pulled out from the mold easily (Picture N°1) -Attention: Remember the spacer to ensure smooth unmolding (see Picture 2). +ATTENTION: Don't forget the spacer, otherwise you are going to have a bad time unmold (picture n°2). ![IMG_20220711_114615-181ecbf767b.jpg](./IMG_20220711_114615-181ecbf767b.jpg) @@ -157,40 +167,4 @@ Attention: Remember the spacer to ensure smooth unmolding (see Picture 2). ![With treadedrod-17fc75b2daa.png](./With_treadedrod-17fc75b2daa.png) ## Resources -### Hardware - -- 1-inch female brass garden hose connector (external threads) -- 2x 1/2-inch male brass garden hose connectors (internal threads) -- 1/2-inch brass endcap -- M14 threaded rod (14mm length) or 14mm round stock -- 10mm drill bit - -### Tools - -- Drill -- Vise - -### Software - -- No software required -## References -## Articles - -- [Make Your Own Injection Molding Machine](https://makezine.com/projects/diy-injection-molding/) -- [Mold and Connector for Injection Molding](https://www.instructables.com/Mold-and-Connector-for-Injection-Molding/) -- [DIY Injection Molding: How to Mold Plastic Parts In-House](https://formlabs.com/blog/diy-injection-molding/) -- [Injection Mold Construction (Wikipedia)](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Injection_mold_construction) - -## Opensource Designs - -- Injection Machine Automatic Connection Upgrade ([filtered]) - -## YouTube - -- [Buster Beagle 3D Injection Molding Machine MK4 Updates](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dzYe9b0Iuzc) - -## Products - -- [Power Cord Plug Injection Molding Machine (KINGSING)](https://www.kingsing.com/product/793.html) -- [Brass Injection Moulding Inserts](https://precision-brass-parts.com/brass-injection-moulding-inserts/) -- [CPC308 Brass Injection Mold Coupler (Green Line Hose)](https://www.greenlinehose.com/buy/product/cpc308/139364) \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/injection-machine-automatic-connection-upgrade/config.json b/howtos/injection-machine-automatic-connection-upgrade/config.json index f0b17a4b4..b28f7907a 100644 --- a/howtos/injection-machine-automatic-connection-upgrade/config.json +++ b/howtos/injection-machine-automatic-connection-upgrade/config.json @@ -13,7 +13,7 @@ }, "creatorCountry": "", "time": "< 5 hours", - "description": "# How-To Guide for Upgrading Your Injection Machine and Molds\n\nImprove the speed, safety, and efficiency of your injection process by upgrading your machine and molds. For any injection mold with a threaded connection to the machine nozzle, simply install a brass garden hose connector.", + "description": "This How-To will show you how to upgrade your injection machine and molds to make your injection process faster, safer, and more efficient!\nThis trick works on any injection mold that have a threaded connection to the machine nozzle. Install a brass garden hose connector and voilà!", "id": "UMzChzofue4ClKLeZ6MA", "files": [], "_createdBy": "martin-lathuille", @@ -40,7 +40,7 @@ "steps": [ { "_animationKey": "unique1", - "text": "The injection machine effectively highlights plastic issues and illustrates the recycling process. However, for high-volume production, it can be slow and challenging.\n\nHere are the primary issues:\n\n- Molds are difficult to attach; they often clog with molten plastic, complicating assembly and necessitating cleaning after each cycle.\n- Unmolding is time-consuming; threaded mold connectors create undercuts, complicating unmolding.\n\nThe upgrade system must accomplish the following:\n\n1. Enable single-movement mold attachment and detachment\n2. Improve operator comfort\n3. Minimize production waste\n4. Allow use with gloves\n5. Reduce cycle time\n6. Eliminate the need for cleaning between cycles\n\nUsing a brass garden hose connector, found at garden and home improvement stores, can facilitate efficient mold connection.", + "text": "The injection machine is a great tool to raise awareness about plastic pollution and demonstrate the plastic recycling process.\nHowever if you need to produce many parts, the process can be a little slow and difficult.\n\nHere are the main problems in my opinion:\n\n-Molds are hard to attach to the machine ---> Often get clogged up by molten plastic, making the assembly difficult and require cleaning between each cycle\n\n-Unmolding takes time---> Threaded mold connectors create undercut shapes, making unmolding difficult\n\n\nHere are the specifications that the upgrade system must achieve:\n\n1-\tAllow molds to be attached and detached from the machine in 1 movement\n2-\tReduce uncomfortable position for the operator\n3-\tReduce production waste\n4-\tBe usable with gloves easily \n5-\tReduce cycle time\n6-\tDo not require cleaning between each cycle\n\nThe trick is to use a brass garden hose connector, available in gardening and home improvement store, to easily connect your mold ans be more efficient!", "images": [ { "type": "image/png", @@ -97,11 +97,11 @@ } ], "_animationKey": "unique2", - "text": "You'll need:\n\n- 1 x 1-inch female brass garden hose connector with external threads\n- 2 x 1/2-inch male brass garden hose connector with internal threads (or another size to fit your mold)\n- 1 x 1/2-inch brass endcap\n\nThese items are available at most hardware or gardening stores.\n\n- 14mm (9/16-inch) long piece of M14 threaded rod or 14mm (9/16-inch) diameter round stock (M14 threaded rod is recommended for its suitable diameter, though any 14mm round stock will suffice)\n- 10mm (3/8-inch) drill bit\n- A drill and a vise\n\nNote: Ensure compatibility with your machine and mold; verify dimensions. \n\nMetric to inch equivalents: \n1/2 inch = 15x21 threads", + "text": "You'll need :\n\nx1 1 inch female brass garden hose connector with EXTERNAL threads (picture n°2)\nx2 1/2\" inch male brass garden hose connector (or any other size depending on what fits on your mold), with INTERNAL threads (picture n°3)\nx1 1/2\" inch brass endcap (picture n°1)\nYou'll find all of this in your local hardware/gardening store.\n\n1 - 14mm long piece of M14 threaded rod (or a 14mm diameter round stock (Edit: for this tutorial I used M 14 threaded rod because the exterior diameter is the right size for the application, but you can use any other 14mm round stock you have on hand, the exterior threads are not needed)\n\n1- 10mm drill bit \nA drill and a vise\n\nATTENTION: Buy the right hardware for your particular machine and mold! Check dimensions\n\nMetric to inch equivalent: \n1/2 \" = 15x21 threads", "title": "Bill of materials: " }, { - "text": "Begin by fabricating a spacer: a cylinder with a 14 mm (0.55 inches) diameter and a 10 mm (0.39 inches) central hole. Refer to the plans below. \n\nAn M14 threaded rod or screw is suitable and commonly available, but a 14 mm (0.55 inches) round stock is also acceptable.\n\nUsing a drill and vise, create the 10 mm (0.39 inches) hole through the spacer.\n\nEnsure the spacer fits well in both the male connector and the 1/4 inch (6.35 mm) adaptor to prevent leakage.", + "text": "The first step is to fabricate a spacer: basically a 14mm diameter cylinder with a 10 mm hole in the middle (see plans below).\nYou can use M14 threaded rod a screw as it is easily available, but a 14 mm round stock is ok.\n\nUsing a drill and a vise, drill a 10 mm hole trough the hole spacer.\n\nMake sure your spacer fits nicely in both the male connector and the 1/4 inch adaptor to prevent leakage later on. \n\n\n", "_animationKey": "unique3fuyy", "images": [ { @@ -183,7 +183,7 @@ "alt": "IMG_20220711_115425-181ed04ce3b.jpg" } ], - "text": "# Modify Your Mold\n\n1. Insert the spacer into the mold's 1/2 inch (12.7 mm) connector, ensuring it fits snugly and occupies most of the empty space.\n2. Attach the male brass connector on top.\n3. Drill through all parts with a 10 mm (0.39 inch) drill bit to enlarge the hole to 10 mm (0.39 inch). Ensure precise drilling to avoid damaging the threads.\n\nRepeat these steps for each mold to fit them all with male connectors for convenience.\n\n# Assemble Your Plug\n\n- Attach the second male connector to the end cap to create your new plug.\n\n# Modify Your Injection Machine\n\n- Remove the current threaded nozzle and replace it with the brass female connector.", + "text": "I-Modify your mold\n\n \n\n 1- Place the spacer inside your mold's ½ inch connector, it should fit inside snugly and fill the most of the empty space.\n\n 2- Screw the male brass connector on top of it\n\n 3- Drill with the 10 mm drill trough all the parts to enlarge the hole diameter up to 10 mm.\n\n Be careful to drill right in the center, otherwise you can damage the threads.\n\nYou'll have to repeat those steps for each one of your molds (once the mold have been used, it is inconvenient to remove the male connector and spacer inside, it is easier to fit all your molds with male connectors)\n\n\nII- Assemble your plug:\n\n - Simply take the second male connector and screw it to the end cap --> Here's your new plug :) (Picture n°1)\n\nIII- Modify your injection machine \n\n -Unscrew the current threaded nozzle of your machine and replace it with the brass female connector!", "title": "Assembly steps" }, { @@ -227,11 +227,11 @@ ], "_animationKey": "uniquevjcvg7", "title": "Instructions for operation", - "text": "1. Prepare your mold and heat the machine.\n\n2. To inject, lift the female connector's exterior ring to remove the plug.\n\n3. Push the mold into the connector, which will latch with a \"click.\"\n\n4. Inject into the mold.\n\n5. To remove, lift the connector ring and extract the mold, then replace the plug.\n\n6. Repeat as necessary.\n\nThis method achieved approximately 15 injections per hour, surpassing previous results." + "text": "1 - Prepare your mold as usual and heat up your machine\n\n2- When you are ready to inject, remove the plug by simply lifting the female connector exterior ring (picture n°2)\n\n3-Push your mold up into the connector, it will automatically latch onto it and make a nice \"click\" sound\n\n4- Inject your mold\n\n5- To remove the mold, just lift the female connector exterior ring and get your mold, then place the plug back inside.\n\n6-Repeat :)\n\nUsing this method, I was able to pull out about 15 injections/ hour, which is way more than I used to." }, { "_animationKey": "unique2u0tbd", - "text": "The rod fills the void inside the male connector, allowing molten plastic to flow through the 10 mm (0.39 inches) channel. This enables easy removal of the sprue from the mold (see Picture 1).\n\nAttention: Remember the spacer to ensure smooth unmolding (see Picture 2).", + "text": "The piece of rod is here to fill the void inside the male connector. The molten plastic can then flows through the 10 mm round channel, and the sprue can be pulled out from the mold easily (Picture N°1)\n\nATTENTION: Don't forget the spacer, otherwise you are going to have a bad time unmold (picture n°2).", "images": [ { "type": "image/jpeg", @@ -437,9 +437,5 @@ "category": { "label": "uncategorized" }, - "content": "# How-To Guide for Upgrading Your Injection Machine and Molds\n\nImprove the speed, safety, and efficiency of your injection process by upgrading your machine and molds. For any injection mold with a threaded connection to the machine nozzle, simply install a brass garden hose connector.\n\n\nUser Location: Ajaccio, France\n\nThe injection machine effectively highlights plastic issues and illustrates the recycling process. However, for high-volume production, it can be slow and challenging.\n\nHere are the primary issues:\n\n- Molds are difficult to attach; they often clog with molten plastic, complicating assembly and necessitating cleaning after each cycle.\n- Unmolding is time-consuming; threaded mold connectors create undercuts, complicating unmolding.\n\nThe upgrade system must accomplish the following:\n\n1. Enable single-movement mold attachment and detachment\n2. Improve operator comfort\n3. Minimize production waste\n4. Allow use with gloves\n5. Reduce cycle time\n6. Eliminate the need for cleaning between cycles\n\nUsing a brass garden hose connector, found at garden and home improvement stores, can facilitate efficient mold connection.\n\nYou'll need:\n\n- 1 x 1-inch female brass garden hose connector with external threads\n- 2 x 1/2-inch male brass garden hose connector with internal threads (or another size to fit your mold)\n- 1 x 1/2-inch brass endcap\n\nThese items are available at most hardware or gardening stores.\n\n- 14mm (9/16-inch) long piece of M14 threaded rod or 14mm (9/16-inch) diameter round stock (M14 threaded rod is recommended for its suitable diameter, though any 14mm round stock will suffice)\n- 10mm (3/8-inch) drill bit\n- A drill and a vise\n\nNote: Ensure compatibility with your machine and mold; verify dimensions. \n\nMetric to inch equivalents: \n1/2 inch = 15x21 threads\n\nBegin by fabricating a spacer: a cylinder with a 14 mm (0.55 inches) diameter and a 10 mm (0.39 inches) central hole. Refer to the plans below. \n\nAn M14 threaded rod or screw is suitable and commonly available, but a 14 mm (0.55 inches) round stock is also acceptable.\n\nUsing a drill and vise, create the 10 mm (0.39 inches) hole through the spacer.\n\nEnsure the spacer fits well in both the male connector and the 1/4 inch (6.35 mm) adaptor to prevent leakage.\n\n# Modify Your Mold\n\n1. Insert the spacer into the mold's 1/2 inch (12.7 mm) connector, ensuring it fits snugly and occupies most of the empty space.\n2. Attach the male brass connector on top.\n3. Drill through all parts with a 10 mm (0.39 inch) drill bit to enlarge the hole to 10 mm (0.39 inch). Ensure precise drilling to avoid damaging the threads.\n\nRepeat these steps for each mold to fit them all with male connectors for convenience.\n\n# Assemble Your Plug\n\n- Attach the second male connector to the end cap to create your new plug.\n\n# Modify Your Injection Machine\n\n- Remove the current threaded nozzle and replace it with the brass female connector.\n\n1. Prepare your mold and heat the machine.\n\n2. To inject, lift the female connector's exterior ring to remove the plug.\n\n3. Push the mold into the connector, which will latch with a \"click.\"\n\n4. Inject into the mold.\n\n5. To remove, lift the connector ring and extract the mold, then replace the plug.\n\n6. Repeat as necessary.\n\nThis method achieved approximately 15 injections per hour, surpassing previous results.\n\nThe rod fills the void inside the male connector, allowing molten plastic to flow through the 10 mm (0.39 inches) channel. This enables easy removal of the sprue from the mold (see Picture 1).\n\nAttention: Remember the spacer to ensure smooth unmolding (see Picture 2).", - "keywords": "upgrading injection machine, mold improvement, injection molding efficiency, brass garden hose connector, injection mold connector, improve production speed, injection machine upgrade, mold attachment system, reduce cycle time, operator comfort", - "resources": "### Hardware\n\n- 1-inch female brass garden hose connector (external threads)\n- 2x 1/2-inch male brass garden hose connectors (internal threads)\n- 1/2-inch brass endcap\n- M14 threaded rod (14mm length) or 14mm round stock\n- 10mm drill bit\n\n### Tools\n\n- Drill\n- Vise\n\n### Software\n\n- No software required", - "references": "## Articles\n\n- [Make Your Own Injection Molding Machine](https://makezine.com/projects/diy-injection-molding/)\n- [Mold and Connector for Injection Molding](https://www.instructables.com/Mold-and-Connector-for-Injection-Molding/)\n- [DIY Injection Molding: How to Mold Plastic Parts In-House](https://formlabs.com/blog/diy-injection-molding/)\n- [Injection Mold Construction (Wikipedia)](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Injection_mold_construction)\n\n## Opensource Designs\n\n- Injection Machine Automatic Connection Upgrade ([filtered])\n\n## YouTube\n\n- [Buster Beagle 3D Injection Molding Machine MK4 Updates](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dzYe9b0Iuzc)\n\n## Products\n\n- [Power Cord Plug Injection Molding Machine (KINGSING)](https://www.kingsing.com/product/793.html)\n- [Brass Injection Moulding Inserts](https://precision-brass-parts.com/brass-injection-moulding-inserts/)\n- [CPC308 Brass Injection Mold Coupler (Green Line Hose)](https://www.greenlinehose.com/buy/product/cpc308/139364)", - "brief": "Upgrade your injection machine and molds for faster, safer, and efficient production. Install a brass garden hose connector to streamline mold attachment and detach with ease." + "content": "This How-To will show you how to upgrade your injection machine and molds to make your injection process faster, safer, and more efficient!\nThis trick works on any injection mold that have a threaded connection to the machine nozzle. Install a brass garden hose connector and voilà!\n\n\nUser Location: Ajaccio, France\n\nThe injection machine is a great tool to raise awareness about plastic pollution and demonstrate the plastic recycling process.\nHowever if you need to produce many parts, the process can be a little slow and difficult.\n\nHere are the main problems in my opinion:\n\n-Molds are hard to attach to the machine ---> Often get clogged up by molten plastic, making the assembly difficult and require cleaning between each cycle\n\n-Unmolding takes time---> Threaded mold connectors create undercut shapes, making unmolding difficult\n\n\nHere are the specifications that the upgrade system must achieve:\n\n1-\tAllow molds to be attached and detached from the machine in 1 movement\n2-\tReduce uncomfortable position for the operator\n3-\tReduce production waste\n4-\tBe usable with gloves easily \n5-\tReduce cycle time\n6-\tDo not require cleaning between each cycle\n\nThe trick is to use a brass garden hose connector, available in gardening and home improvement store, to easily connect your mold ans be more efficient!\n\nYou'll need :\n\nx1 1 inch female brass garden hose connector with EXTERNAL threads (picture n°2)\nx2 1/2\" inch male brass garden hose connector (or any other size depending on what fits on your mold), with INTERNAL threads (picture n°3)\nx1 1/2\" inch brass endcap (picture n°1)\nYou'll find all of this in your local hardware/gardening store.\n\n1 - 14mm long piece of M14 threaded rod (or a 14mm diameter round stock (Edit: for this tutorial I used M 14 threaded rod because the exterior diameter is the right size for the application, but you can use any other 14mm round stock you have on hand, the exterior threads are not needed)\n\n1- 10mm drill bit \nA drill and a vise\n\nATTENTION: Buy the right hardware for your particular machine and mold! Check dimensions\n\nMetric to inch equivalent: \n1/2 \" = 15x21 threads\n\nThe first step is to fabricate a spacer: basically a 14mm diameter cylinder with a 10 mm hole in the middle (see plans below).\nYou can use M14 threaded rod a screw as it is easily available, but a 14 mm round stock is ok.\n\nUsing a drill and a vise, drill a 10 mm hole trough the hole spacer.\n\nMake sure your spacer fits nicely in both the male connector and the 1/4 inch adaptor to prevent leakage later on. \n\n\n\n\nI-Modify your mold\n\n \n\n 1- Place the spacer inside your mold's ½ inch connector, it should fit inside snugly and fill the most of the empty space.\n\n 2- Screw the male brass connector on top of it\n\n 3- Drill with the 10 mm drill trough all the parts to enlarge the hole diameter up to 10 mm.\n\n Be careful to drill right in the center, otherwise you can damage the threads.\n\nYou'll have to repeat those steps for each one of your molds (once the mold have been used, it is inconvenient to remove the male connector and spacer inside, it is easier to fit all your molds with male connectors)\n\n\nII- Assemble your plug:\n\n - Simply take the second male connector and screw it to the end cap --> Here's your new plug :) (Picture n°1)\n\nIII- Modify your injection machine \n\n -Unscrew the current threaded nozzle of your machine and replace it with the brass female connector!\n\n1 - Prepare your mold as usual and heat up your machine\n\n2- When you are ready to inject, remove the plug by simply lifting the female connector exterior ring (picture n°2)\n\n3-Push your mold up into the connector, it will automatically latch onto it and make a nice \"click\" sound\n\n4- Inject your mold\n\n5- To remove the mold, just lift the female connector exterior ring and get your mold, then place the plug back inside.\n\n6-Repeat :)\n\nUsing this method, I was able to pull out about 15 injections/ hour, which is way more than I used to.\n\nThe piece of rod is here to fill the void inside the male connector. The molten plastic can then flows through the 10 mm round channel, and the sprue can be pulled out from the mold easily (Picture N°1)\n\nATTENTION: Don't forget the spacer, otherwise you are going to have a bad time unmold (picture n°2)." } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/interconnecting-zephyr-block-mould/README.md b/howtos/interconnecting-zephyr-block-mould/README.md index b521a7069..c9a99f6ba 100644 --- a/howtos/interconnecting-zephyr-block-mould/README.md +++ b/howtos/interconnecting-zephyr-block-mould/README.md @@ -1,12 +1,9 @@ --- title: Interconnecting Zephyr Block Mould slug: interconnecting-zephyr-block-mould -description: # Zephyr Block Instructions - -Learn to craft the Zephyr Block, an interlocking structure element originating from Melbourne, Australia. This guide will assist in utilizing plastic otherwise discarded. - -**Included Files:** +description: Here we'll show you how to make our Zephyr Block, designed in Melbourne, Australia! Interlocking to create all sorts of structures while making use of heaps of plastic destined for landfill. +In the folder you will find: 1. Steel sheet parts (.DXF) 2. Mould core (.STP) 3. Part identification guide @@ -14,17 +11,14 @@ tags: ["HDPE","mould"] category: uncategorized difficulty: Medium time: < 5 hours -keywords: Zephyr Block, interlocking structure, Melbourne recycling, plastic waste solution, DIY mold guide, HDPE extrusion, community garden project, upcycled materials, steel sheet construction, sustainable architecture +keywords: location: Melbourne, Australia --- # Interconnecting Zephyr Block Mould ![Interconnecting Zephyr Block Mould](HowToCOVER_ZephyrBlock_copy-18a4097a66f.jpg) -# Zephyr Block Instructions - -Learn to craft the Zephyr Block, an interlocking structure element originating from Melbourne, Australia. This guide will assist in utilizing plastic otherwise discarded. - -**Included Files:** +Here we'll show you how to make our Zephyr Block, designed in Melbourne, Australia! Interlocking to create all sorts of structures while making use of heaps of plastic destined for landfill. +In the folder you will find: 1. Steel sheet parts (.DXF) 2. Mould core (.STP) 3. Part identification guide @@ -33,142 +27,114 @@ User Location: Melbourne, Australia ## Steps ### Step 1: Mould production -## Required Materials +What you’ll need: -- **Steel Sheet**: Approximately 800x500mm (31.5x19.7 inches), 10mm (0.39 inches) thick -- **Core Elements**: Two machined steel or alloy pieces -- **Tools**: Welder, Deburring tool +- Approx. 800x500mm sheet of 10mm steel +- 2 x machined steel/alloy core elements +- Welder +- Deburring tool -- **Bolts for Fabrication**: - - M8 x 20mm (0.79 inches) - 8 pieces - - M10 x 20mm (0.79 inches) - 2 pieces - - M12 x 25mm (0.98 inches) - 4 pieces +- Bolts for fabrication: +M8 x 20mm (8) +M10 x 20mm (2) +M12 x 25mm (4) -- **Nuts, Bolts & Washers for Assembly**: - - M10 x 110mm (4.33 inches) - 10 pieces - - M10 Washers - 20 pieces - - M10 Nuts or Wingnuts - 10 pieces - - ½-inch BSP Nut (stainless steel) +- Nuts, Bolts & Washers for manufacturing: +M10 x 110mm (10) +M10 Washers (20) +M10 Nuts or Wingnuts (10) +½″ BSP Nut (stainless steel) ![Screen Shot 2023-08-29 at 2.10.27 pm-18a3f7f7a2d.png](./Screen_Shot_2023-08-29_at_2.10.27_pm-18a3f7f7a2d.png) ### Step 2: Making the parts -Cut each of the 14 pieces from 10 mm (0.39 in) steel using the provided DXF file. Use the engraving sheet to mark the interior of each plate and the edges of each tab for assembly guidance. +Using the DXF file above, cut each of the 14 pieces from 10mm steel. Using the sheet for engraving, mark the insides of each plate, and on the edges of each tab to guide putting the mould together. ![IMG_7988-18a3d811d88.JPG](./IMG_7988-18a3d811d88.JPG) ### Step 3: Connecting mould components -### Assembly Instructions for Components +The circle and square pieces plus the two core components need to be permanently affixed to the following panels: -- **Steel Circles:** Attach to panels using M10 x 20 bolts. These should remain movable to ensure proper alignment of bricks before filling the mold. +- Connect the steel circles to the panels, as per the part identification guide using M10 x 20 bolts. The circles are movable but are key to ensuring that each brick fits over each other, check before filling the mould. -- **Alloy Cores:** Secure to top panels with M12 x 1 inch bolts, as specified in the part identification guide. +- Affix the alloy cores to each top panel, as indicated in the identification guide using M12 x 25mm bolts. -- **Square Plates:** - - Attach the smaller plate to part 5/E (outer). - - Secure the larger plate to the circle end of the 2/B/3/C core panel (outer) using M8 x 20 bolts. +- Attach the smaller square plate to the part labeled 5/E (outer); and the larger square plate to the circle end of the 2/B/3/C core panel (outer), using the M8 x 20mm bolts. -- **Nut Attachment:** Weld a ½ inch BSP stainless steel nut to panel 1/A for extruder connection. +- Finally, weld the ½″ BSP nut (stainless steel) to the 1/A panel, to aid your connection to your extruder. ![IMG_7995-18a3d81eef6.JPG](./IMG_7995-18a3d81eef6.JPG) ### Step 4: Prepare material -The mold requires approximately 3.3 pounds (1.5 kilograms) of shredded HDPE for the hopper. +The mould requires about 1.5 kilograms of shredded HDPE, so have this ready to be fed into your hopper. ![Screen Shot 2023-08-29 at 2.10.51 pm-18a3f806b4b.png](./Screen_Shot_2023-08-29_at_2.10.51_pm-18a3f806b4b.png) ### Step 5: Prepare machine -Attach the fitting to your extruder and activate the machine to melt the plastic. +Affixing your fitting to your extruder, turn on the machine to melt the plastic you are using. -Once ready, feed the material into the hopper. +When ready, feed into the hopper. ![Screen Shot 2023-08-29 at 7.06.27 pm-18a40902bea.png](./Screen_Shot_2023-08-29_at_7.06.27_pm-18a40902bea.png) ### Step 6: Prepare the mould + other required items -While the plastic melts, assemble the mold by placing one base plate on the surface and inserting each tabbed end into its corresponding hole. Connect the sides using either numbers (1-10) or letters (A-J). Secure each corner with M10 bolts, washers, and nuts or wingnuts. +While waiting for the plastic to melt, assemble the mould by laying one of the base plates down, and putting each tabbed end into its corresponding hole. One side connects numbers (1-10) or letters (A-J). Tighten each corner with your M10 bolts, washer and nut/wingnut. ![IMG_7992-18a3d839fed.JPG](./IMG_7992-18a3d839fed.JPG) ### Step 7: Attach the mould -Securely connect the mold to the extruder. Ensure the mold is positioned vertically. +Connect your mould to the extruder securely. The mould should be sitting up vertically (rather than laying flat). ![IMG_7980-18a3d841a82.JPG](./IMG_7980-18a3d841a82.JPG) ### Step 8: Fill the mould -Running a machine at 356°F (180°C) and 35 Hz, the mold fills in approximately 6 minutes. Monitor the vent at the back for the first bubble of plastic, then turn off the machine and remove the mold. +Running a machine at 180°C, at a speed of 35hz, the mould will fill in approximately 6 minutes. Watch the vent at the back of the mould for the first bubble of plastic to appear, and turn off the machine and remove the mould. ![IMG_8005-18a3d8493e9.JPG](./IMG_8005-18a3d8493e9.JPG) ### Step 9: Opening the mould -Using heat-resistant gloves, open the mold by placing it on one of its plates and removing each bolt or nut. +Using heatproof gloves, open the mould by laying it on one of its plates and undoing each bolt/ nut. ![IMG_8009-18a3d851601.JPG](./IMG_8009-18a3d851601.JPG) ### Step 10: Cool the product -Once removed from the mold, immerse in a water bath to accelerate cooling. +Once removed from the mould, drop into a water bath to speed up the cooling process. + ![IMG_8020-18a3d85b992.JPG](./IMG_8020-18a3d85b992.JPG) ### Step 11: How we made it: Bricks for a community garden -A video detailing the process of transforming 91,500 used plastic bottle caps into blocks for a community garden. +A video overview of how we turned 91,500 discarded plastic bottle caps into recycled blocks for a community garden. Give it a watch :) + ### Step 12: Explore the possibilities -Construct diverse structures such as office partitions, furniture, and garden beds while reducing plastic waste. +Build to your heart's content through the creation of a wide variety of structures - think office partitions, furniture, garden beds and more - whilst diverting large volumes of plastic from landfill. -Discover our approach in building a community garden by reading the full case study here: [plastic.org.au Case Study](https://www.plastic.org.au/pages/case-study-bedford-park). +Get inspired by how we used ours to build a community garden! Read the full Case Study here: plastic.org.au: plastic.org.au/pages/case-study-bedford-park ![Product_PPM_ZephyrBlock_1-18a3f64300d.jpg](./Product_PPM_ZephyrBlock_1-18a3f64300d.jpg) ## Resources -### Tools - -- [Welder](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Welding) -- [Deburring tool](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Deburring) -- Heat-resistant gloves - -### Software - -- [CAD software](https://www.autodesk.com/solutions/cad-software) (for .DXF/.STP files) - -### Hardware Components - -- 10mm thick ~~[steel sheet](https://www.metalsupermarkets.com.au/)~~ (800x500mm) -- Machined steel/alloy cores -- Bolts: ~~[M8 x 20mm](https://www.bunnings.com.au/our-range/tools-hardware/fasteners-fixings/bolts-screws/bolts)~~ (8), ~~[M10 x 20mm](https://www.bunnings.com.au/our-range/tools-hardware/fasteners-fixings/bolts-screws/bolts)~~ (2), ~~[M12 x 25mm](https://www.bunnings.com.au/our-range/tools-hardware/fasteners-fixings/bolts-screws/bolts)~~ (4), M10 x 110mm (10) -- M10 washers (20), nuts/wingnuts (10), ~~[½-inch BSP stainless nut](https://www.sanha.com.au/products/)~~ -- Plastic extruder machine -## References -## Articles - -- [Case Study - Bedford Park Community Garden](https://www.plastic.org.au/pages/case-study-bedford-park) -- [Understanding packaging codes and labels](https://www.portphillip.vic.gov.au/council-services/waste-recycling-and-rubbish/understanding-packaging-codes-and-labels) - -## YouTube - -- [From Bottle Caps To Bricks For A Community Garden](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QiT8zDW76VI) - -## Open Source Designs - -- Interconnecting Zephyr Block Mould \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/interconnecting-zephyr-block-mould/config.json b/howtos/interconnecting-zephyr-block-mould/config.json index f8cce55ea..72c731608 100644 --- a/howtos/interconnecting-zephyr-block-mould/config.json +++ b/howtos/interconnecting-zephyr-block-mould/config.json @@ -11,7 +11,7 @@ "src": "C:\\Users\\zx\\Desktop\\osr\\osr-machines\\howtos\\interconnecting-zephyr-block-mould\\howtocover_zephyrblock_copy-18a4097a66f.jpg" }, "_id": "5lGRtQIDHWuYw8Z2g970", - "description": "# Zephyr Block Instructions\n\nLearn to craft the Zephyr Block, an interlocking structure element originating from Melbourne, Australia. This guide will assist in utilizing plastic otherwise discarded.\n\n**Included Files:**\n\n1. Steel sheet parts (.DXF)\n2. Mould core (.STP)\n3. Part identification guide", + "description": "Here we'll show you how to make our Zephyr Block, designed in Melbourne, Australia! Interlocking to create all sorts of structures while making use of heaps of plastic destined for landfill.\n\nIn the folder you will find:\n1. Steel sheet parts (.DXF)\n2. Mould core (.STP)\n3. Part identification guide", "files": [ null ], @@ -63,11 +63,11 @@ } ], "_animationKey": "unique1", - "text": "## Required Materials\n\n- **Steel Sheet**: Approximately 800x500mm (31.5x19.7 inches), 10mm (0.39 inches) thick\n- **Core Elements**: Two machined steel or alloy pieces\n- **Tools**: Welder, Deburring tool\n\n- **Bolts for Fabrication**:\n - M8 x 20mm (0.79 inches) - 8 pieces\n - M10 x 20mm (0.79 inches) - 2 pieces\n - M12 x 25mm (0.98 inches) - 4 pieces\n\n- **Nuts, Bolts & Washers for Assembly**:\n - M10 x 110mm (4.33 inches) - 10 pieces\n - M10 Washers - 20 pieces\n - M10 Nuts or Wingnuts - 10 pieces\n - ½-inch BSP Nut (stainless steel)", + "text": "What you’ll need:\n\n- Approx. 800x500mm sheet of 10mm steel\n- 2 x machined steel/alloy core elements\n- Welder\n- Deburring tool\n\n- Bolts for fabrication:\nM8 x 20mm (8) \nM10 x 20mm (2)\nM12 x 25mm (4)\n\n- Nuts, Bolts & Washers for manufacturing:\nM10 x 110mm (10)\nM10 Washers (20)\nM10 Nuts or Wingnuts (10)\n½″ BSP Nut (stainless steel)", "title": "Mould production" }, { - "text": "Cut each of the 14 pieces from 10 mm (0.39 in) steel using the provided DXF file. Use the engraving sheet to mark the interior of each plate and the edges of each tab for assembly guidance.", + "text": "Using the DXF file above, cut each of the 14 pieces from 10mm steel. Using the sheet for engraving, mark the insides of each plate, and on the edges of each tab to guide putting the mould together.", "images": [ { "fullPath": "uploads/howtos/5lGRtQIDHWuYw8Z2g970/IMG_7988-18a3d811d88.JPG", @@ -102,12 +102,12 @@ ], "_animationKey": "unique3", "title": "Connecting mould components", - "text": "### Assembly Instructions for Components\n\n- **Steel Circles:** Attach to panels using M10 x 20 bolts. These should remain movable to ensure proper alignment of bricks before filling the mold.\n\n- **Alloy Cores:** Secure to top panels with M12 x 1 inch bolts, as specified in the part identification guide.\n\n- **Square Plates:** \n - Attach the smaller plate to part 5/E (outer).\n - Secure the larger plate to the circle end of the 2/B/3/C core panel (outer) using M8 x 20 bolts.\n\n- **Nut Attachment:** Weld a ½ inch BSP stainless steel nut to panel 1/A for extruder connection." + "text": "The circle and square pieces plus the two core components need to be permanently affixed to the following panels:\n\n- Connect the steel circles to the panels, as per the part identification guide using M10 x 20 bolts. The circles are movable but are key to ensuring that each brick fits over each other, check before filling the mould. \n\n- Affix the alloy cores to each top panel, as indicated in the identification guide using M12 x 25mm bolts. \n\n- Attach the smaller square plate to the part labeled 5/E (outer); and the larger square plate to the circle end of the 2/B/3/C core panel (outer), using the M8 x 20mm bolts.\n\n- Finally, weld the ½″ BSP nut (stainless steel) to the 1/A panel, to aid your connection to your extruder." }, { "_animationKey": "unique42jiyb", "title": "Prepare material", - "text": "The mold requires approximately 3.3 pounds (1.5 kilograms) of shredded HDPE for the hopper.", + "text": "The mould requires about 1.5 kilograms of shredded HDPE, so have this ready to be fed into your hopper.", "images": [ { "downloadUrl": "https://firebasestorage.googleapis.com/v0/b/onearmyworld.appspot.com/o/uploads%2Fhowtos%2F5lGRtQIDHWuYw8Z2g970%2FScreen%20Shot%202023-08-29%20at%202.10.51%20pm-18a3f806b4b.png?alt=media&token=192d287f-2388-4270-bac5-2f8266b7dceb", @@ -140,7 +140,7 @@ ], "_animationKey": "uniqueqyepn", "title": "Prepare machine", - "text": "Attach the fitting to your extruder and activate the machine to melt the plastic.\n\nOnce ready, feed the material into the hopper." + "text": "Affixing your fitting to your extruder, turn on the machine to melt the plastic you are using.\n\nWhen ready, feed into the hopper." }, { "images": [ @@ -159,10 +159,10 @@ ], "_animationKey": "unique8rgd3f", "title": "Prepare the mould + other required items", - "text": "While the plastic melts, assemble the mold by placing one base plate on the surface and inserting each tabbed end into its corresponding hole. Connect the sides using either numbers (1-10) or letters (A-J). Secure each corner with M10 bolts, washers, and nuts or wingnuts." + "text": "While waiting for the plastic to melt, assemble the mould by laying one of the base plates down, and putting each tabbed end into its corresponding hole. One side connects numbers (1-10) or letters (A-J). Tighten each corner with your M10 bolts, washer and nut/wingnut." }, { - "text": "Securely connect the mold to the extruder. Ensure the mold is positioned vertically.", + "text": "Connect your mould to the extruder securely. The mould should be sitting up vertically (rather than laying flat).", "images": [ { "name": "IMG_7980-18a3d841a82.JPG", @@ -181,7 +181,7 @@ "_animationKey": "uniqueqbs7nf" }, { - "text": "Running a machine at 356°F (180°C) and 35 Hz, the mold fills in approximately 6 minutes. Monitor the vent at the back for the first bubble of plastic, then turn off the machine and remove the mold.", + "text": "Running a machine at 180°C, at a speed of 35hz, the mould will fill in approximately 6 minutes. Watch the vent at the back of the mould for the first bubble of plastic to appear, and turn off the machine and remove the mould.", "_animationKey": "uniquejr2ss", "images": [ { @@ -200,7 +200,7 @@ "title": "Fill the mould" }, { - "text": "Using heat-resistant gloves, open the mold by placing it on one of its plates and removing each bolt or nut.", + "text": "Using heatproof gloves, open the mould by laying it on one of its plates and undoing each bolt/ nut. ", "images": [ { "timeCreated": "2023-08-28T19:03:43.495Z", @@ -235,18 +235,18 @@ "alt": "IMG_8020-18a3d85b992.JPG" } ], - "text": "Once removed from the mold, immerse in a water bath to accelerate cooling." + "text": "Once removed from the mould, drop into a water bath to speed up the cooling process. \n " }, { "images": [], "videoUrl": "https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QiT8zDW76VI", - "text": "A video detailing the process of transforming 91,500 used plastic bottle caps into blocks for a community garden.", + "text": "A video overview of how we turned 91,500 discarded plastic bottle caps into recycled blocks for a community garden. Give it a watch :)\n ", "_animationKey": "uniqueqf4drd", "title": "How we made it: Bricks for a community garden" }, { "_animationKey": "unique92ln1", - "text": "Construct diverse structures such as office partitions, furniture, and garden beds while reducing plastic waste. \n\nDiscover our approach in building a community garden by reading the full case study here: [plastic.org.au Case Study](https://www.plastic.org.au/pages/case-study-bedford-park).", + "text": "Build to your heart's content through the creation of a wide variety of structures - think office partitions, furniture, garden beds and more - whilst diverting large volumes of plastic from landfill.\n\nGet inspired by how we used ours to build a community garden! Read the full Case Study here: plastic.org.au: plastic.org.au/pages/case-study-bedford-park", "title": "Explore the possibilities", "images": [ { @@ -448,9 +448,5 @@ "category": { "label": "uncategorized" }, - "content": "# Zephyr Block Instructions\n\nLearn to craft the Zephyr Block, an interlocking structure element originating from Melbourne, Australia. This guide will assist in utilizing plastic otherwise discarded.\n\n**Included Files:**\n\n1. Steel sheet parts (.DXF)\n2. Mould core (.STP)\n3. Part identification guide\n\n\nUser Location: Melbourne, Australia\n\n## Required Materials\n\n- **Steel Sheet**: Approximately 800x500mm (31.5x19.7 inches), 10mm (0.39 inches) thick\n- **Core Elements**: Two machined steel or alloy pieces\n- **Tools**: Welder, Deburring tool\n\n- **Bolts for Fabrication**:\n - M8 x 20mm (0.79 inches) - 8 pieces\n - M10 x 20mm (0.79 inches) - 2 pieces\n - M12 x 25mm (0.98 inches) - 4 pieces\n\n- **Nuts, Bolts & Washers for Assembly**:\n - M10 x 110mm (4.33 inches) - 10 pieces\n - M10 Washers - 20 pieces\n - M10 Nuts or Wingnuts - 10 pieces\n - ½-inch BSP Nut (stainless steel)\n\nCut each of the 14 pieces from 10 mm (0.39 in) steel using the provided DXF file. Use the engraving sheet to mark the interior of each plate and the edges of each tab for assembly guidance.\n\n### Assembly Instructions for Components\n\n- **Steel Circles:** Attach to panels using M10 x 20 bolts. These should remain movable to ensure proper alignment of bricks before filling the mold.\n\n- **Alloy Cores:** Secure to top panels with M12 x 1 inch bolts, as specified in the part identification guide.\n\n- **Square Plates:** \n - Attach the smaller plate to part 5/E (outer).\n - Secure the larger plate to the circle end of the 2/B/3/C core panel (outer) using M8 x 20 bolts.\n\n- **Nut Attachment:** Weld a ½ inch BSP stainless steel nut to panel 1/A for extruder connection.\n\nThe mold requires approximately 3.3 pounds (1.5 kilograms) of shredded HDPE for the hopper.\n\nAttach the fitting to your extruder and activate the machine to melt the plastic.\n\nOnce ready, feed the material into the hopper.\n\nWhile the plastic melts, assemble the mold by placing one base plate on the surface and inserting each tabbed end into its corresponding hole. Connect the sides using either numbers (1-10) or letters (A-J). Secure each corner with M10 bolts, washers, and nuts or wingnuts.\n\nSecurely connect the mold to the extruder. Ensure the mold is positioned vertically.\n\nRunning a machine at 356°F (180°C) and 35 Hz, the mold fills in approximately 6 minutes. Monitor the vent at the back for the first bubble of plastic, then turn off the machine and remove the mold.\n\nUsing heat-resistant gloves, open the mold by placing it on one of its plates and removing each bolt or nut.\n\nOnce removed from the mold, immerse in a water bath to accelerate cooling.\n\nA video detailing the process of transforming 91,500 used plastic bottle caps into blocks for a community garden.\n\nConstruct diverse structures such as office partitions, furniture, and garden beds while reducing plastic waste. \n\nDiscover our approach in building a community garden by reading the full case study here: [plastic.org.au Case Study](https://www.plastic.org.au/pages/case-study-bedford-park).", - "keywords": "Zephyr Block, interlocking structure, Melbourne recycling, plastic waste solution, DIY mold guide, HDPE extrusion, community garden project, upcycled materials, steel sheet construction, sustainable architecture", - "resources": "### Tools\n\n- [Welder](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Welding)\n- [Deburring tool](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Deburring)\n- Heat-resistant gloves\n\n### Software\n\n- [CAD software](https://www.autodesk.com/solutions/cad-software) (for .DXF/.STP files)\n\n### Hardware Components\n\n- 10mm thick ~~[steel sheet](https://www.metalsupermarkets.com.au/)~~ (800x500mm)\n- Machined steel/alloy cores\n- Bolts: ~~[M8 x 20mm](https://www.bunnings.com.au/our-range/tools-hardware/fasteners-fixings/bolts-screws/bolts)~~ (8), ~~[M10 x 20mm](https://www.bunnings.com.au/our-range/tools-hardware/fasteners-fixings/bolts-screws/bolts)~~ (2), ~~[M12 x 25mm](https://www.bunnings.com.au/our-range/tools-hardware/fasteners-fixings/bolts-screws/bolts)~~ (4), M10 x 110mm (10)\n- M10 washers (20), nuts/wingnuts (10), ~~[½-inch BSP stainless nut](https://www.sanha.com.au/products/)~~\n- Plastic extruder machine", - "references": "## Articles\n\n- [Case Study - Bedford Park Community Garden](https://www.plastic.org.au/pages/case-study-bedford-park)\n- [Understanding packaging codes and labels](https://www.portphillip.vic.gov.au/council-services/waste-recycling-and-rubbish/understanding-packaging-codes-and-labels)\n\n## YouTube\n\n- [From Bottle Caps To Bricks For A Community Garden](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QiT8zDW76VI)\n\n## Open Source Designs\n\n- Interconnecting Zephyr Block Mould", - "brief": "Craft the Zephyr Block, a reusable structure from Melbourne, using discarded plastic. Transform waste into garden beds and partitions with our detailed guide." + "content": "Here we'll show you how to make our Zephyr Block, designed in Melbourne, Australia! Interlocking to create all sorts of structures while making use of heaps of plastic destined for landfill.\n\nIn the folder you will find:\n1. Steel sheet parts (.DXF)\n2. Mould core (.STP)\n3. Part identification guide\n\n\nUser Location: Melbourne, Australia\n\nWhat you’ll need:\n\n- Approx. 800x500mm sheet of 10mm steel\n- 2 x machined steel/alloy core elements\n- Welder\n- Deburring tool\n\n- Bolts for fabrication:\nM8 x 20mm (8) \nM10 x 20mm (2)\nM12 x 25mm (4)\n\n- Nuts, Bolts & Washers for manufacturing:\nM10 x 110mm (10)\nM10 Washers (20)\nM10 Nuts or Wingnuts (10)\n½″ BSP Nut (stainless steel)\n\nUsing the DXF file above, cut each of the 14 pieces from 10mm steel. Using the sheet for engraving, mark the insides of each plate, and on the edges of each tab to guide putting the mould together.\n\nThe circle and square pieces plus the two core components need to be permanently affixed to the following panels:\n\n- Connect the steel circles to the panels, as per the part identification guide using M10 x 20 bolts. The circles are movable but are key to ensuring that each brick fits over each other, check before filling the mould. \n\n- Affix the alloy cores to each top panel, as indicated in the identification guide using M12 x 25mm bolts. \n\n- Attach the smaller square plate to the part labeled 5/E (outer); and the larger square plate to the circle end of the 2/B/3/C core panel (outer), using the M8 x 20mm bolts.\n\n- Finally, weld the ½″ BSP nut (stainless steel) to the 1/A panel, to aid your connection to your extruder.\n\nThe mould requires about 1.5 kilograms of shredded HDPE, so have this ready to be fed into your hopper.\n\nAffixing your fitting to your extruder, turn on the machine to melt the plastic you are using.\n\nWhen ready, feed into the hopper.\n\nWhile waiting for the plastic to melt, assemble the mould by laying one of the base plates down, and putting each tabbed end into its corresponding hole. One side connects numbers (1-10) or letters (A-J). Tighten each corner with your M10 bolts, washer and nut/wingnut.\n\nConnect your mould to the extruder securely. The mould should be sitting up vertically (rather than laying flat).\n\nRunning a machine at 180°C, at a speed of 35hz, the mould will fill in approximately 6 minutes. Watch the vent at the back of the mould for the first bubble of plastic to appear, and turn off the machine and remove the mould.\n\nUsing heatproof gloves, open the mould by laying it on one of its plates and undoing each bolt/ nut. \n\nOnce removed from the mould, drop into a water bath to speed up the cooling process. \n \n\nA video overview of how we turned 91,500 discarded plastic bottle caps into recycled blocks for a community garden. Give it a watch :)\n \n\nBuild to your heart's content through the creation of a wide variety of structures - think office partitions, furniture, garden beds and more - whilst diverting large volumes of plastic from landfill.\n\nGet inspired by how we used ours to build a community garden! Read the full Case Study here: plastic.org.au: plastic.org.au/pages/case-study-bedford-park" } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/joost-arbor-press/README.md b/howtos/joost-arbor-press/README.md index c4551ecc4..3a19519ba 100644 --- a/howtos/joost-arbor-press/README.md +++ b/howtos/joost-arbor-press/README.md @@ -1,50 +1,58 @@ --- title: Joost Arbor Press slug: joost-arbor-press -description: Joost's Arbor Press is derived from the original Injection machine design. It addresses two key issues: improving ergonomics to enhance user experience and productivity, and increasing pressure capabilities to expand its functionality. This guide includes downloadable files and instructions for constructing and operating this machine. +description: Joost's Arbor Press is a machine based on the original design of the Injection machine made by Precious Plastic +(https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/build/injection) + +This machine solves two main problems: Ergonomics, that was directly affecting the user experience and therefore productivity and the pressure, which was bringing a big limitation for what we could make with this machine. + +In this how-to you'll find the download files and the requirements to build and run this machine yourself :) tags: ["injection"] category: Machines difficulty: Medium time: 1-2 weeks -keywords: Joost's Arbor Press, Injection machine design, ergonomics, productivity, pressure capabilities, 3D CAD files, metalworking skills, machine building tools, safety equipment, injection molds +keywords: location: --- # Joost Arbor Press ![Joost Arbor Press](Sin_titulo-1-1865ffb1359.jpg) -Joost's Arbor Press is derived from the original Injection machine design. It addresses two key issues: improving ergonomics to enhance user experience and productivity, and increasing pressure capabilities to expand its functionality. This guide includes downloadable files and instructions for constructing and operating this machine. +Joost's Arbor Press is a machine based on the original design of the Injection machine made by Precious Plastic +(https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/build/injection) + +This machine solves two main problems: Ergonomics, that was directly affecting the user experience and therefore productivity and the pressure, which was bringing a big limitation for what we could make with this machine. + +In this how-to you'll find the download files and the requirements to build and run this machine yourself :) ## Steps ### Step 1: Download -Download the package for this machine, which includes: +First off, here is your download package for this machine! -- 3D CAD files (.step and .f3d) -- Laser cut files (.dxf) +In this folder you will find: +- 3D CAD (.step and .f3d) +- Lasercut files (.dxf) - Blueprints (.pdf) - Schematics -- Bill of Materials (BOM) +- BOM ![bp-1866073466f.jpg](./bp-1866073466f.jpg) ### Step 2: Build -### Required Skills and Equipment for Machine Building +These are the required skills and machinery you or your machine builder will need to have access to: -**Skills Needed:** - -- Metalworking: Cutting, drilling +- General metalworking (cutting, drilling) - Welding -- Machining: Lathe turning -- Milling +- Turning (machining on a lathe) +- Milling (machining on a mill) - Laser cutting -- Electrical work: Wiring safety switches, installing temperature controllers +- General electrical work (wiring safety switch, temperature controllers…) - Painting -**Machinery and Tools:** - -- Grinder, chop saw, MIG/MAG or TIG welder, drill press -- Lathe, milling machine (CNC) -- Access to laser cutting (can be outsourced) +⚙️ Machinery / specific tools needed: +- Grinder, chop saw, MIG/MAG or TIG, drill press +- Lathe, mill (CNC) +- Laser cutting (this can easily be subcontracted around the world) ![1666360670949-186601e4835.JPG](./1666360670949-186601e4835.JPG) @@ -57,9 +65,12 @@ Download the package for this machine, which includes: ### Step 3: Inject! -- It is advised to place your machine on a level surface and, for increased stability, secure it to the floor. -- Ensure the use of safety equipment when operating the machine, including heat-resistant gloves, goggles, a gas mask, and safety clothing. A well-ventilated area is also recommended. -- When buying molds, ensure they have a chamfered nozzle (not threaded) to fit properly with the cap nut used for the nozzle. +- We recommend to place your machine in a leveled floor and it's even better if you can screw the machine to the floor too for more stability. +- Always make sure to wear the safety equipment when running this machine (high heat resistant gloves, goggles, gas mask and safety clothing), also a well ventilated area is highly recommended. +- When purchasing moulds, make sure they come with chamfered nozzle (not threaded) so that they can fit nicely with the cap nut used for the nozzle. + + + ![use-186602adecf.jpg](./use-186602adecf.jpg) @@ -72,57 +83,23 @@ Download the package for this machine, which includes: ### Step 4: Create, share back and Sell :) -### Start Creating +Start creating! +You'll be able to produce a large variety of products like tiles, pots, sunglass frames and more. +Have a look at the How-to's to find inspiration for injection moulds or products: +👉 -You can produce a variety of products such as tiles and pots. Explore the tutorials for inspiration on injection molds or products. +Buy and sell on the Bazar! +On the [filtered] Bazar you can buy moulds or parts for this machine - or sell your own creations and machines! +👉 bazar.preciousplastic.com -#### Design Process -For insights into the design process, watch this [video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jWbkIa0ncIU). +And if you replicate this machine and improve it, dont forget to share back! :) or if you have question on how to build it, join us on Discord 👉 discord.com: discord.com/invite/rnx7m4t -If you replicate this machine and improve it, please share your enhancements. +If you want to know about the design process take a look at this video 👉 youtube.com: youtube.com/watch?v=jWbkIa0ncIU + +Happy melting! 🤗 ![IMG_2806-186608dfb5d.JPG](./IMG_2806-186608dfb5d.JPG) ## Resources -### Tools & Software - -- 3D CAD software (~~[STEP](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/STEP_File)~~/[F3D](https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360) files) -- Laser cutting software (DXF compatible) -- PDF viewer (blueprints) -- Spreadsheet software (Bill of Materials) -- [Design process video guide](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jWbkIa0ncIU) - -### Hardware & Equipment - -- Grinder and chop saw -- MIG/MAG or TIG welder -- Drill press -- Lathe and CNC milling machine -- Access to laser cutting (outsourceable) - -### Safety Gear - -- Heat-resistant gloves -- Safety goggles -- Gas mask -- Safety clothing -- Ventilated workspace -## References -## Open-source Designs - -- Make open-source Arbor Press injection machine -- Joost Arbor Press - Library - -## YouTube - -- [NEW Plastic Injection Machine SNEAK PEEK](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jWbkIa0ncIU) - -## Commercial Products - -- Arbour Press Injection Machine -- Arbour Injection Machine - -## Papers/Patents - -- [Indian Patent Office Journal](https://ipindia.gov.in/writereaddata/Portal/IPOJournal/1_4975_1/Part-2.pdf) \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/joost-arbor-press/config.json b/howtos/joost-arbor-press/config.json index 897f7e793..ddcf576cb 100644 --- a/howtos/joost-arbor-press/config.json +++ b/howtos/joost-arbor-press/config.json @@ -1,7 +1,7 @@ { "steps": [ { - "text": "Download the package for this machine, which includes:\n\n- 3D CAD files (.step and .f3d)\n- Laser cut files (.dxf)\n- Blueprints (.pdf)\n- Schematics\n- Bill of Materials (BOM)", + "text": "First off, here is your download package for this machine!\n\nIn this folder you will find:\n- 3D CAD (.step and .f3d)\n- Lasercut files (.dxf)\n- Blueprints (.pdf)\n- Schematics\n- BOM", "images": [ { "type": "image/jpeg", @@ -60,7 +60,7 @@ ], "title": "Build", "_animationKey": "unique2", - "text": "### Required Skills and Equipment for Machine Building\n\n**Skills Needed:**\n\n- Metalworking: Cutting, drilling\n- Welding\n- Machining: Lathe turning\n- Milling\n- Laser cutting\n- Electrical work: Wiring safety switches, installing temperature controllers\n- Painting\n\n**Machinery and Tools:**\n\n- Grinder, chop saw, MIG/MAG or TIG welder, drill press\n- Lathe, milling machine (CNC)\n- Access to laser cutting (can be outsourced)" + "text": "These are the required skills and machinery you or your machine builder will need to have access to:\n\n- General metalworking (cutting, drilling)\n- Welding\n- Turning (machining on a lathe)\n- Milling (machining on a mill)\n- Laser cutting\n- General electrical work (wiring safety switch, temperature controllers…)\n- Painting\n\n⚙️ Machinery / specific tools needed:\n- Grinder, chop saw, MIG/MAG or TIG, drill press\n- Lathe, mill (CNC)\n- Laser cutting (this can easily be subcontracted around the world)" }, { "images": [ @@ -103,7 +103,7 @@ ], "title": "Inject!", "_animationKey": "unique3", - "text": "- It is advised to place your machine on a level surface and, for increased stability, secure it to the floor. \n- Ensure the use of safety equipment when operating the machine, including heat-resistant gloves, goggles, a gas mask, and safety clothing. A well-ventilated area is also recommended. \n- When buying molds, ensure they have a chamfered nozzle (not threaded) to fit properly with the cap nut used for the nozzle." + "text": "- We recommend to place your machine in a leveled floor and it's even better if you can screw the machine to the floor too for more stability. \n- Always make sure to wear the safety equipment when running this machine (high heat resistant gloves, goggles, gas mask and safety clothing), also a well ventilated area is highly recommended. \n- When purchasing moulds, make sure they come with chamfered nozzle (not threaded) so that they can fit nicely with the cap nut used for the nozzle. \n\n\n" }, { "title": "Create, share back and Sell :)", @@ -122,7 +122,7 @@ "alt": "IMG_2806-186608dfb5d.JPG" } ], - "text": "### Start Creating\n\nYou can produce a variety of products such as tiles and pots. Explore the tutorials for inspiration on injection molds or products.\n\n#### Design Process\nFor insights into the design process, watch this [video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jWbkIa0ncIU).\n\nIf you replicate this machine and improve it, please share your enhancements." + "text": "Start creating!\nYou'll be able to produce a large variety of products like tiles, pots, sunglass frames and more.\nHave a look at the How-to's to find inspiration for injection moulds or products:\n👉 \n\nBuy and sell on the Bazar!\nOn the [filtered] Bazar you can buy moulds or parts for this machine - or sell your own creations and machines!\n👉 bazar.preciousplastic.com\n\nAnd if you replicate this machine and improve it, dont forget to share back! :) or if you have question on how to build it, join us on Discord 👉 discord.com: discord.com/invite/rnx7m4t\n\nIf you want to know about the design process take a look at this video 👉 youtube.com: youtube.com/watch?v=jWbkIa0ncIU\n\nHappy melting! 🤗" } ], "comments": [ @@ -191,10 +191,6 @@ "_modified": "2024-02-06T21:35:15.903Z", "_deleted": false, "total_downloads": 131, - "description": "Joost's Arbor Press is derived from the original Injection machine design. It addresses two key issues: improving ergonomics to enhance user experience and productivity, and increasing pressure capabilities to expand its functionality. This guide includes downloadable files and instructions for constructing and operating this machine.", - "content": "Joost's Arbor Press is derived from the original Injection machine design. It addresses two key issues: improving ergonomics to enhance user experience and productivity, and increasing pressure capabilities to expand its functionality. This guide includes downloadable files and instructions for constructing and operating this machine.\n\nDownload the package for this machine, which includes:\n\n- 3D CAD files (.step and .f3d)\n- Laser cut files (.dxf)\n- Blueprints (.pdf)\n- Schematics\n- Bill of Materials (BOM)\n\n### Required Skills and Equipment for Machine Building\n\n**Skills Needed:**\n\n- Metalworking: Cutting, drilling\n- Welding\n- Machining: Lathe turning\n- Milling\n- Laser cutting\n- Electrical work: Wiring safety switches, installing temperature controllers\n- Painting\n\n**Machinery and Tools:**\n\n- Grinder, chop saw, MIG/MAG or TIG welder, drill press\n- Lathe, milling machine (CNC)\n- Access to laser cutting (can be outsourced)\n\n- It is advised to place your machine on a level surface and, for increased stability, secure it to the floor. \n- Ensure the use of safety equipment when operating the machine, including heat-resistant gloves, goggles, a gas mask, and safety clothing. A well-ventilated area is also recommended. \n- When buying molds, ensure they have a chamfered nozzle (not threaded) to fit properly with the cap nut used for the nozzle.\n\n### Start Creating\n\nYou can produce a variety of products such as tiles and pots. Explore the tutorials for inspiration on injection molds or products.\n\n#### Design Process\nFor insights into the design process, watch this [video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jWbkIa0ncIU).\n\nIf you replicate this machine and improve it, please share your enhancements.", - "keywords": "Joost's Arbor Press, Injection machine design, ergonomics, productivity, pressure capabilities, 3D CAD files, metalworking skills, machine building tools, safety equipment, injection molds", - "resources": "### Tools & Software\n\n- 3D CAD software (~~[STEP](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/STEP_File)~~/[F3D](https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360) files)\n- Laser cutting software (DXF compatible)\n- PDF viewer (blueprints)\n- Spreadsheet software (Bill of Materials)\n- [Design process video guide](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jWbkIa0ncIU)\n\n### Hardware & Equipment\n\n- Grinder and chop saw\n- MIG/MAG or TIG welder\n- Drill press\n- Lathe and CNC milling machine\n- Access to laser cutting (outsourceable)\n\n### Safety Gear\n\n- Heat-resistant gloves\n- Safety goggles\n- Gas mask\n- Safety clothing\n- Ventilated workspace", - "references": "## Open-source Designs\n\n- Make open-source Arbor Press injection machine\n- Joost Arbor Press - Library\n\n## YouTube\n\n- [NEW Plastic Injection Machine SNEAK PEEK](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jWbkIa0ncIU)\n\n## Commercial Products\n\n- Arbour Press Injection Machine\n- Arbour Injection Machine\n\n## Papers/Patents\n\n- [Indian Patent Office Journal](https://ipindia.gov.in/writereaddata/Portal/IPOJournal/1_4975_1/Part-2.pdf)", - "brief": "Joost's Arbor Press enhances ergonomics and pressure capabilities for better functionality. Access 3D CAD, laser cut files, and build instructions for DIY construction." + "description": "Joost's Arbor Press is a machine based on the original design of the Injection machine made by Precious Plastic\n(https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/build/injection)\n\nThis machine solves two main problems: Ergonomics, that was directly affecting the user experience and therefore productivity and the pressure, which was bringing a big limitation for what we could make with this machine.\n\nIn this how-to you'll find the download files and the requirements to build and run this machine yourself :)", + "content": "Joost's Arbor Press is a machine based on the original design of the Injection machine made by Precious Plastic\n(https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/build/injection)\n\nThis machine solves two main problems: Ergonomics, that was directly affecting the user experience and therefore productivity and the pressure, which was bringing a big limitation for what we could make with this machine.\n\nIn this how-to you'll find the download files and the requirements to build and run this machine yourself :)\n\nFirst off, here is your download package for this machine!\n\nIn this folder you will find:\n- 3D CAD (.step and .f3d)\n- Lasercut files (.dxf)\n- Blueprints (.pdf)\n- Schematics\n- BOM\n\nThese are the required skills and machinery you or your machine builder will need to have access to:\n\n- General metalworking (cutting, drilling)\n- Welding\n- Turning (machining on a lathe)\n- Milling (machining on a mill)\n- Laser cutting\n- General electrical work (wiring safety switch, temperature controllers…)\n- Painting\n\n⚙️ Machinery / specific tools needed:\n- Grinder, chop saw, MIG/MAG or TIG, drill press\n- Lathe, mill (CNC)\n- Laser cutting (this can easily be subcontracted around the world)\n\n- We recommend to place your machine in a leveled floor and it's even better if you can screw the machine to the floor too for more stability. \n- Always make sure to wear the safety equipment when running this machine (high heat resistant gloves, goggles, gas mask and safety clothing), also a well ventilated area is highly recommended. \n- When purchasing moulds, make sure they come with chamfered nozzle (not threaded) so that they can fit nicely with the cap nut used for the nozzle. \n\n\n\n\nStart creating!\nYou'll be able to produce a large variety of products like tiles, pots, sunglass frames and more.\nHave a look at the How-to's to find inspiration for injection moulds or products:\n👉 \n\nBuy and sell on the Bazar!\nOn the [filtered] Bazar you can buy moulds or parts for this machine - or sell your own creations and machines!\n👉 bazar.preciousplastic.com\n\nAnd if you replicate this machine and improve it, dont forget to share back! :) or if you have question on how to build it, join us on Discord 👉 discord.com: discord.com/invite/rnx7m4t\n\nIf you want to know about the design process take a look at this video 👉 youtube.com: youtube.com/watch?v=jWbkIa0ncIU\n\nHappy melting! 🤗" } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/jump-rope-handles-mould/README.md b/howtos/jump-rope-handles-mould/README.md index 52e3127a5..f2d3aa39d 100644 --- a/howtos/jump-rope-handles-mould/README.md +++ b/howtos/jump-rope-handles-mould/README.md @@ -1,31 +1,31 @@ --- title: Jump rope handles mould slug: jump-rope-handles-mould -description: Jump rope is an effective fitness tool. This mold allows for making a jump rope handle and is designed for use with an injection machine. It is straightforward to operate. +description: Jump rope is a nice tool for keeping fit. This mould allows making a jump rope handle. It is intended for the injection machine and is quite easy in operation. -Modifications to the mold may be required based on the specific configuration of the injection machine. +Depending on the injection machine arrangement, some modifications to the mould might be needed. -Local price is approximately 120 EUR (about $135 USD). +Local price ±120 EUR tags: ["injection","mould"] category: Moulds difficulty: Medium time: < 1 week -keywords: jump rope mold, jump rope handle, injection molding, fitness tool, laser-cut plates, metal lathe work, local fabrication, HDPE injection, PP material, paracord rope +keywords: location: Tallinn, Estonia --- # Jump rope handles mould ![Jump rope handles mould](photo_2023-10-19_11-25-47-18b470fd15f.jpg) -Jump rope is an effective fitness tool. This mold allows for making a jump rope handle and is designed for use with an injection machine. It is straightforward to operate. +Jump rope is a nice tool for keeping fit. This mould allows making a jump rope handle. It is intended for the injection machine and is quite easy in operation. -Modifications to the mold may be required based on the specific configuration of the injection machine. +Depending on the injection machine arrangement, some modifications to the mould might be needed. -Local price is approximately 120 EUR (about $135 USD). +Local price ±120 EUR User Location: Tallinn, Estonia ## Steps ### Step 1: Download -The design includes four laser-cut plates, a pipe, and an insert. The files are provided in all necessary formats for local fabrication orders. +The design consists of 4 lasercut plates, a pipe and an insert. The files include all necessary formats to order the mould from a local fabrication. ![Files-18b4722cbdf.png](./Files-18b4722cbdf.png) @@ -35,7 +35,10 @@ The design includes four laser-cut plates, a pipe, and an insert. The files are ### Step 2: Manufacture -The pipe and insert require metal lathe work, which was outsourced to a local fabricator with drawings provided. The plates are laser-cut. The thicker plates support the pipe and insert, and one thick plate secures the insert with a bolt. +The pipe and the insert require metal machining - lathe work. This were ordered from a local fabrication. Drawings included. +The plates are lasercut. + +The thicker plates hold the pipe and insert. One of the thicker plates attaches the insert with a bolt. ![mould1-18b4722de41.PNG](./mould1-18b4722de41.PNG) @@ -48,26 +51,19 @@ The pipe and insert require metal lathe work, which was outsourced to a local fa ### Step 3: Inject the handles -### Injection Moulding Process +The injection moulding process starts with preparation of the machine, the material and the mould. -**Preparation:** -Begin by preparing the machine, material, and mould. +Material suitability: +PP [5] - fills the mould nicely and with no problems. +HDPE [2] - more viscous and requires higher injection pressure. From our experience very challenging to work with this mould. -**Material Suitability:** -- PP: Fills the mould effectively. -- HDPE: More viscous; requires higher injection pressure and is more challenging for this mould. +The mould needs to have a proper adapter/connection method. We use a tufftuff jack to push the mould inlet onto the injection nozzle. -**Mould Connection:** -Ensure proper adapter or connection. A sturdy jack pushes the mould inlet onto the injection nozzle. +Some lubrication is needed on the insert bit. If the product is left to cool for too long on the insert, it tends to shrink and get stuck on the insert. The best way to release is to use rubberized gloves and pull in the twisty/rotating manner. -**Lubrication and Release:** -Apply lubrication to the insert bit. If cooled too long, the product may shrink and stick. Use rubberized gloves and a twisting motion for release. +Follow-up: the injection point needs to be clipped off with pliers/ knife and a hole should be drilled at the end with a drill bit 6-8mm in diameter. It is easier to drill from the inside of the jump rope handle with a longer drill bit. -**Post-Processing:** -Clip the injection point with pliers or a knife. Drill a 6-8mm (approximately 0.24-0.31 inches) hole at the end, preferably with a longer drill bit from the inside of the jump rope handle. - -**Finishing Touch:** -For the jump rope, use a 6mm (approximately 0.24 inches) paracord-type rope. +To finish the jump rope, we use 6mm rPET paracord type rope (recycled). ![photo_2023-10-19_11-25-49-18b473051b4.jpg](./photo_2023-10-19_11-25-49-18b473051b4.jpg) @@ -79,73 +75,4 @@ For the jump rope, use a 6mm (approximately 0.24 inches) paracord-type rope. ![2023-09-28 16.13.21-18b472e6515.jpg](./2023-09-28_16.13.21-18b472e6515.jpg) ## Resources -### Tools - -- Injection molding machine -- Laser cutter (for fabrication of plates) -- Metal lathe (outsourced for pipe/insert machining) -- Drill with 6-8mm drill bit (post-processing) -- Pliers or knife (clipping injection point) - -### Software/Design Files - -- CAD files (provided in required formats for fabrication) - -### Materials - -- Polypropylene (PP) or High-density polyethylene (HDPE) -- 6mm paracord-type rope -- Lubrication (for mold release) -- Laser-cut metal plates (thick and thin variants) -- Metal pipe and insert (requiring lathe work) - -### Safety Gear - -- Rubberized gloves (for handling during release) - -### Hardware/Components - -- Adapter or connection for mold-to-injection nozzle -- Bolt (secures insert to thick plate) -- Metal plates (4 laser-cut, varying thicknesses) -- Metal pipe and insert (lathe-machined) -- Longer drill bit (for internal hole drilling) -## References -## References - -### Articles - -- [Compression Molding vs. Injection Molding - Fictiv](https://www.fictiv.com/articles/compression-molding-versus-injection-molding) -- [The Complete Guide to Polypropylene Injection Molding - TDL](https://tdlmould.com/polypropylene-injection-molding-guide/) -- [Injection Molding of Polyethylene](https://www.cavitymold.com/injection-molding-of-polyethylene/) -- [Trouble Shooting in Plastic Injection Molding Machines (PDF)](https://core.ac.uk/download/pdf/232276356.pdf) - -### Books - -- [COOL JUMP ROPE TRICKS You Can Do!](http://childhoodlist.blogspot.com/2012/03/105-diy-plastic-bag-jump-rope.html) -- [101 Best Jump Rope Workouts](https://buddyleejumpropes.com/collections/jump-rope-guide-books) -- [Jump Rope Training by Buddy Lee](https://buddyleejumpropes.com/collections/jump-rope-guide-books) - -### Papers - -- ~~[Exploring Computational Media as a Possible Future of Software (PDF)](https://pure.au.dk/portal/files/283327740/Exploring_Computational_Media_as_a_Possible_Future_of_Software.pdf)~~ - -### YouTube - -- [Nova Rope: Full Breakdown!](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E8OvcWqBXX4) - -### Open Source Designs - -- [Injection Molder - Open Source Ecology](https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/Injection_Molder) - -### Patents - -- [Compression/Injection Molding of Fiber Reinforced Composites](https://patents.google.com/patent/US5738818A/en) -- [Jump Rope Handle Design (WO1999038574A1)](https://patents.google.com/patent/WO1999038574A1/de) - -### DIY Guides - -- [How is PVC Jump Rope Produced? - Pleval Leisure](https://www.pleval.com/how-is-pvc-jump-rope-produced/) -- [Build an Ultra-Durable Jump Rope - Instructables](https://www.instructables.com/Build-a-Durable-Jump-Rope/) -- [Smart Skipping Rope - Instructables](https://www.instructables.com/Smart-Skipping-Rope/) -- [DIY Plastic Bag Jump Rope](http://childhoodlist.blogspot.com/2012/03/105-diy-plastic-bag-jump-rope.html) \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/jump-rope-handles-mould/config.json b/howtos/jump-rope-handles-mould/config.json index 6aab4fb51..b1eb05663 100644 --- a/howtos/jump-rope-handles-mould/config.json +++ b/howtos/jump-rope-handles-mould/config.json @@ -11,7 +11,7 @@ "_created": "2023-10-19T09:11:05.188Z", "_createdBy": "precious-plastic-estonia", "moderatorFeedback": "", - "description": "Jump rope is an effective fitness tool. This mold allows for making a jump rope handle and is designed for use with an injection machine. It is straightforward to operate.\n\nModifications to the mold may be required based on the specific configuration of the injection machine.\n\nLocal price is approximately 120 EUR (about $135 USD).", + "description": "Jump rope is a nice tool for keeping fit. This mould allows making a jump rope handle. It is intended for the injection machine and is quite easy in operation.\n\nDepending on the injection machine arrangement, some modifications to the mould might be needed.\n\nLocal price ±120 EUR", "title": "Jump rope handles mould", "_modified": "2023-10-31T02:12:15.432Z", "files": [ @@ -68,7 +68,7 @@ "alt": "2023-10-10 12.48.38-18b472ff024.jpg" } ], - "text": "The design includes four laser-cut plates, a pipe, and an insert. The files are provided in all necessary formats for local fabrication orders.", + "text": "The design consists of 4 lasercut plates, a pipe and an insert. The files include all necessary formats to order the mould from a local fabrication.", "_animationKey": "unique1" }, { @@ -110,7 +110,7 @@ "alt": "Cross1-18b4722fc20.PNG" } ], - "text": "The pipe and insert require metal lathe work, which was outsourced to a local fabricator with drawings provided. The plates are laser-cut. The thicker plates support the pipe and insert, and one thick plate secures the insert with a bolt.", + "text": "The pipe and the insert require metal machining - lathe work. This were ordered from a local fabrication. Drawings included.\nThe plates are lasercut. \n\nThe thicker plates hold the pipe and insert. One of the thicker plates attaches the insert with a bolt.", "title": "Manufacture", "_animationKey": "unique2" }, @@ -155,7 +155,7 @@ ], "title": "Inject the handles", "_animationKey": "unique3", - "text": "### Injection Moulding Process\n\n**Preparation:** \nBegin by preparing the machine, material, and mould.\n\n**Material Suitability:** \n- PP: Fills the mould effectively. \n- HDPE: More viscous; requires higher injection pressure and is more challenging for this mould.\n\n**Mould Connection:** \nEnsure proper adapter or connection. A sturdy jack pushes the mould inlet onto the injection nozzle.\n\n**Lubrication and Release:** \nApply lubrication to the insert bit. If cooled too long, the product may shrink and stick. Use rubberized gloves and a twisting motion for release.\n\n**Post-Processing:** \nClip the injection point with pliers or a knife. Drill a 6-8mm (approximately 0.24-0.31 inches) hole at the end, preferably with a longer drill bit from the inside of the jump rope handle.\n\n**Finishing Touch:** \nFor the jump rope, use a 6mm (approximately 0.24 inches) paracord-type rope." + "text": "The injection moulding process starts with preparation of the machine, the material and the mould. \n\nMaterial suitability: \nPP [5] - fills the mould nicely and with no problems. \nHDPE [2] - more viscous and requires higher injection pressure. From our experience very challenging to work with this mould.\n\nThe mould needs to have a proper adapter/connection method. We use a tufftuff jack to push the mould inlet onto the injection nozzle. \n\nSome lubrication is needed on the insert bit. If the product is left to cool for too long on the insert, it tends to shrink and get stuck on the insert. The best way to release is to use rubberized gloves and pull in the twisty/rotating manner. \n\nFollow-up: the injection point needs to be clipped off with pliers/ knife and a hole should be drilled at the end with a drill bit 6-8mm in diameter. It is easier to drill from the inside of the jump rope handle with a longer drill bit.\n\nTo finish the jump rope, we use 6mm rPET paracord type rope (recycled)." } ], "_deleted": false, @@ -322,9 +322,5 @@ "urls": [] } }, - "content": "Jump rope is an effective fitness tool. This mold allows for making a jump rope handle and is designed for use with an injection machine. It is straightforward to operate.\n\nModifications to the mold may be required based on the specific configuration of the injection machine.\n\nLocal price is approximately 120 EUR (about $135 USD).\n\n\nUser Location: Tallinn, Estonia\n\nThe design includes four laser-cut plates, a pipe, and an insert. The files are provided in all necessary formats for local fabrication orders.\n\nThe pipe and insert require metal lathe work, which was outsourced to a local fabricator with drawings provided. The plates are laser-cut. The thicker plates support the pipe and insert, and one thick plate secures the insert with a bolt.\n\n### Injection Moulding Process\n\n**Preparation:** \nBegin by preparing the machine, material, and mould.\n\n**Material Suitability:** \n- PP: Fills the mould effectively. \n- HDPE: More viscous; requires higher injection pressure and is more challenging for this mould.\n\n**Mould Connection:** \nEnsure proper adapter or connection. A sturdy jack pushes the mould inlet onto the injection nozzle.\n\n**Lubrication and Release:** \nApply lubrication to the insert bit. If cooled too long, the product may shrink and stick. Use rubberized gloves and a twisting motion for release.\n\n**Post-Processing:** \nClip the injection point with pliers or a knife. Drill a 6-8mm (approximately 0.24-0.31 inches) hole at the end, preferably with a longer drill bit from the inside of the jump rope handle.\n\n**Finishing Touch:** \nFor the jump rope, use a 6mm (approximately 0.24 inches) paracord-type rope.", - "keywords": "jump rope mold, jump rope handle, injection molding, fitness tool, laser-cut plates, metal lathe work, local fabrication, HDPE injection, PP material, paracord rope", - "resources": "### Tools\n\n- Injection molding machine\n- Laser cutter (for fabrication of plates)\n- Metal lathe (outsourced for pipe/insert machining)\n- Drill with 6-8mm drill bit (post-processing)\n- Pliers or knife (clipping injection point)\n\n### Software/Design Files\n\n- CAD files (provided in required formats for fabrication)\n\n### Materials\n\n- Polypropylene (PP) or High-density polyethylene (HDPE)\n- 6mm paracord-type rope\n- Lubrication (for mold release)\n- Laser-cut metal plates (thick and thin variants)\n- Metal pipe and insert (requiring lathe work)\n\n### Safety Gear\n\n- Rubberized gloves (for handling during release)\n\n### Hardware/Components\n\n- Adapter or connection for mold-to-injection nozzle\n- Bolt (secures insert to thick plate)\n- Metal plates (4 laser-cut, varying thicknesses)\n- Metal pipe and insert (lathe-machined)\n- Longer drill bit (for internal hole drilling)", - "references": "## References\n\n### Articles\n\n- [Compression Molding vs. Injection Molding - Fictiv](https://www.fictiv.com/articles/compression-molding-versus-injection-molding)\n- [The Complete Guide to Polypropylene Injection Molding - TDL](https://tdlmould.com/polypropylene-injection-molding-guide/)\n- [Injection Molding of Polyethylene](https://www.cavitymold.com/injection-molding-of-polyethylene/)\n- [Trouble Shooting in Plastic Injection Molding Machines (PDF)](https://core.ac.uk/download/pdf/232276356.pdf)\n\n### Books\n\n- [COOL JUMP ROPE TRICKS You Can Do!](http://childhoodlist.blogspot.com/2012/03/105-diy-plastic-bag-jump-rope.html)\n- [101 Best Jump Rope Workouts](https://buddyleejumpropes.com/collections/jump-rope-guide-books)\n- [Jump Rope Training by Buddy Lee](https://buddyleejumpropes.com/collections/jump-rope-guide-books)\n\n### Papers\n\n- ~~[Exploring Computational Media as a Possible Future of Software (PDF)](https://pure.au.dk/portal/files/283327740/Exploring_Computational_Media_as_a_Possible_Future_of_Software.pdf)~~\n\n### YouTube\n\n- [Nova Rope: Full Breakdown!](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E8OvcWqBXX4)\n\n### Open Source Designs\n\n- [Injection Molder - Open Source Ecology](https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/Injection_Molder)\n\n### Patents\n\n- [Compression/Injection Molding of Fiber Reinforced Composites](https://patents.google.com/patent/US5738818A/en)\n- [Jump Rope Handle Design (WO1999038574A1)](https://patents.google.com/patent/WO1999038574A1/de)\n\n### DIY Guides\n\n- [How is PVC Jump Rope Produced? - Pleval Leisure](https://www.pleval.com/how-is-pvc-jump-rope-produced/)\n- [Build an Ultra-Durable Jump Rope - Instructables](https://www.instructables.com/Build-a-Durable-Jump-Rope/)\n- [Smart Skipping Rope - Instructables](https://www.instructables.com/Smart-Skipping-Rope/)\n- [DIY Plastic Bag Jump Rope](http://childhoodlist.blogspot.com/2012/03/105-diy-plastic-bag-jump-rope.html)", - "brief": "Create custom jump rope handles with an injection mold designed for easy use. Compatible with PP & HDPE materials, locally manufactured in Tallinn, Estonia." + "content": "Jump rope is a nice tool for keeping fit. This mould allows making a jump rope handle. It is intended for the injection machine and is quite easy in operation.\n\nDepending on the injection machine arrangement, some modifications to the mould might be needed.\n\nLocal price ±120 EUR\n\n\nUser Location: Tallinn, Estonia\n\nThe design consists of 4 lasercut plates, a pipe and an insert. The files include all necessary formats to order the mould from a local fabrication.\n\nThe pipe and the insert require metal machining - lathe work. This were ordered from a local fabrication. Drawings included.\nThe plates are lasercut. \n\nThe thicker plates hold the pipe and insert. One of the thicker plates attaches the insert with a bolt.\n\nThe injection moulding process starts with preparation of the machine, the material and the mould. \n\nMaterial suitability: \nPP [5] - fills the mould nicely and with no problems. \nHDPE [2] - more viscous and requires higher injection pressure. From our experience very challenging to work with this mould.\n\nThe mould needs to have a proper adapter/connection method. We use a tufftuff jack to push the mould inlet onto the injection nozzle. \n\nSome lubrication is needed on the insert bit. If the product is left to cool for too long on the insert, it tends to shrink and get stuck on the insert. The best way to release is to use rubberized gloves and pull in the twisty/rotating manner. \n\nFollow-up: the injection point needs to be clipped off with pliers/ knife and a hole should be drilled at the end with a drill bit 6-8mm in diameter. It is easier to drill from the inside of the jump rope handle with a longer drill bit.\n\nTo finish the jump rope, we use 6mm rPET paracord type rope (recycled)." } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/lampshade-from-recycled-bottle-caps/README.md b/howtos/lampshade-from-recycled-bottle-caps/README.md index a0cdb89f0..a2468821a 100644 --- a/howtos/lampshade-from-recycled-bottle-caps/README.md +++ b/howtos/lampshade-from-recycled-bottle-caps/README.md @@ -1,55 +1,58 @@ --- title: Lampshade from Recycled Bottle Caps slug: lampshade-from-recycled-bottle-caps -description: ## How to Bend a Plastic Sheet Without Heat or Mold +description: We will show you how to bend a recycled plastic sheet from the sheet press without heat or mold. + +This technique is inspired by a woodworking technique called ‘kerfing’. Kerfing is a wood bending method done without water or steam. -This guide demonstrates bending a plastic sheet using a method inspired by the woodworking technique known as kerfing, which bends wood without water or steam. tags: ["HDPE"] category: Products difficulty: Medium time: < 1 day -keywords: Bend plastic sheet, kerfing technique, HDPE plastic board, plastic sheet bending, plastic bending without heat, table saw plastic cutting, soldering plastic, sanding plastic, plastic lampshade creation, woodworking techniques plastic. +keywords: location: Cikarang, Indonesia --- # Lampshade from Recycled Bottle Caps ![Lampshade from Recycled Bottle Caps](lampshade-186bab11dd7.jpg) -## How to Bend a Plastic Sheet Without Heat or Mold +We will show you how to bend a recycled plastic sheet from the sheet press without heat or mold. + +This technique is inspired by a woodworking technique called ‘kerfing’. Kerfing is a wood bending method done without water or steam. -This guide demonstrates bending a plastic sheet using a method inspired by the woodworking technique known as kerfing, which bends wood without water or steam. User Location: Cikarang, Indonesia ## Steps ### Step 1: Prepare all the materials and tools -Requirements: -- HDPE plastic board: - - 11.8 in x 4.1 in, 0.2 in (thickness) - - ⌀3.7 in, 0.2 in (thickness) -- Portable sanding machine -- Soldering iron -- Table saw +Here’s what you need: +- The HDPE plastic board that you’re going to bend: + - 30 cm x 10,5 cm, 5 mm (thickness) + - ⌀9,5 cm, 5 mm (thickness) +- A portable sanding machine +- A soldering iron +- A table saw - Rope + ![1-186ba254193.jpg](./1-186ba254193.jpg) ### Step 2: Score the plastic -First, use the table saw to score the plastic. Cut to a depth of 0.12 inches (3 mm), maintaining a 0.20-inch (5 mm) gap between each cut. Ensure the board is scored perpendicular to the bend direction. +First, we’re using the table saw to score the plastic. Cut 3 mm in depth while keeping a 5 mm distance between each cut. Make sure you’re scoring the board perpendicular to the direction of the bend. ![2-186ba25e82d.png](./2-186ba25e82d.png) ### Step 3: Thin out the end sides of the plastic board -Thin the edges of the plastic board using a portable sander for a better fit in the subsequent step. +Thin out the end sides of the plastic board using a portable sanding machine so that the sides will fit better in the next step. ![3-186baadba45.png](./3-186baadba45.png) ### Step 4: Bend it -Now bend it with care. Secure it using a rope. +Now bend it carefully! Use a rope to tighten it in place. ![4a-186ba278eb1.png](./4a-186ba278eb1.png) @@ -59,9 +62,7 @@ Now bend it with care. Secure it using a rope. ### Step 5: Weld the end pieces of plastic -### Instructions for Soldering Plastic - -Using a soldering iron, securely weld the plastic end pieces together. Ensure the bond is strong. +With the help of a soldering iron, weld the end pieces of plastic together. Make sure you do it well. ![5a-186ba28457e.png](./5a-186ba28457e.png) @@ -71,62 +72,17 @@ Using a soldering iron, securely weld the plastic end pieces together. Ensure th ### Step 6: Smooth out the welded part -To achieve an even surface, use the sanding machine to smooth the welded section. +Now back to the sanding machine again. Smooth out the welded part to get that nice and evenly joint. ![6-186ba28d230.png](./6-186ba28d230.png) ### Step 7: Done! -## Completed Lampshade - -Your lampshade is finished. +And voilà! Your beautiful, eco-friendly lampshade is done. ![7-186ba29536d.png](./7-186ba29536d.png) ## Resources -To bend a plastic sheet using kerfing-inspired techniques as described, the following tools and materials are required: - -### Tools - -- ~~[Portable sanding machine](example.com/sander)~~ (for edge thinning/smoothing) -- ~~[Soldering iron](example.com/soldering)~~ (plastic welding) -- ~~[Table saw](example.com/tablesaw)~~ (scoring cuts) - -### Hardware - -- ~~[HDPE plastic board](example.com/hdpe)~~ (11.8×4.1 in, ⌀3.7 in, 0.2 in thick) -- ~~[Rope](example.com/rope)~~ (securing bends) - -No specific software is needed for this method. -## References -## Articles - -- https://polysynthesis.au/blog-plastic-sheet-bending/ -- https://polysynthesis.au/bent-plastic/ -- https://www.justpolycarbonate.com/post/bending-polycarbonate-everything-you-need-to-know -- https://exceliteplas.com/fabrication/bending-plastic/ -- https://www.caamatech.com/post/arcylic-bend-guide -- https://www.thesprucecrafts.com/bend-sheet-acrylic-plexiglass-with-tools-2366806 -- https://weetect.com/polycarbonate-bending/ -- https://www.beeplastic.com/blogs/plastic-insights/a-beginner-s-guide-to-bending-abs-plastic-sheets-and-rods - -## Papers - -- https://apps.dtic.mil/sti/tr/pdf/AD0847865.pdf -- https://libstore.ugent.be/fulltxt/RUG01/003/014/851/RUG01-003014851_2021_0001_AC.pdf - -## YouTube - -- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ovqnIBQuezA -- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t4JGlWyVDLs -- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CIBRmBxTPCA - -## Opensource Designs - -- https://community.preciousplastic.com/library/bend-plastic-sheets -- https://www.stirpad.com/news/stir-news/kuo-duo-lends-bendability-to-plastic-boards-through-the-kerf-plastic-series/ -- https://www.ucl.ac.uk/bartlett/architecture/kerf-sculpting -- https://community.preciousplastic.com/library/bend-with-the-sheetpress -- https://www.instructables.com/Laser-Cut-Ambient-Light-With-Kerf-Bends/ \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/lampshade-from-recycled-bottle-caps/config.json b/howtos/lampshade-from-recycled-bottle-caps/config.json index 8eb36b00d..d97f3ca20 100644 --- a/howtos/lampshade-from-recycled-bottle-caps/config.json +++ b/howtos/lampshade-from-recycled-bottle-caps/config.json @@ -60,12 +60,12 @@ ], "title": "Prepare all the materials and tools", "_animationKey": "unique1", - "text": "Requirements:\n- HDPE plastic board:\n - 11.8 in x 4.1 in, 0.2 in (thickness)\n - ⌀3.7 in, 0.2 in (thickness)\n- Portable sanding machine\n- Soldering iron\n- Table saw\n- Rope" + "text": "Here’s what you need:\n- The HDPE plastic board that you’re going to bend: \n - 30 cm x 10,5 cm, 5 mm (thickness)\n - ⌀9,5 cm, 5 mm (thickness) \n- A portable sanding machine\n- A soldering iron\n- A table saw\n- Rope\n" }, { "title": "Score the plastic", "_animationKey": "unique2", - "text": "First, use the table saw to score the plastic. Cut to a depth of 0.12 inches (3 mm), maintaining a 0.20-inch (5 mm) gap between each cut. Ensure the board is scored perpendicular to the bend direction.", + "text": "First, we’re using the table saw to score the plastic. Cut 3 mm in depth while keeping a 5 mm distance between each cut. Make sure you’re scoring the board perpendicular to the direction of the bend.", "images": [ { "timeCreated": "2023-03-07T08:17:56.451Z", @@ -96,13 +96,13 @@ "alt": "3-186baadba45.png" } ], - "text": "Thin the edges of the plastic board using a portable sander for a better fit in the subsequent step.", + "text": "Thin out the end sides of the plastic board using a portable sanding machine so that the sides will fit better in the next step.", "_animationKey": "unique3", "title": "Thin out the end sides of the plastic board" }, { "title": "Bend it", - "text": "Now bend it with care. Secure it using a rope.", + "text": "Now bend it carefully! Use a rope to tighten it in place.", "_animationKey": "unique0wh8sv", "images": [ { @@ -160,10 +160,10 @@ ], "title": "Weld the end pieces of plastic", "_animationKey": "unique0ach4", - "text": "### Instructions for Soldering Plastic\n\nUsing a soldering iron, securely weld the plastic end pieces together. Ensure the bond is strong." + "text": "With the help of a soldering iron, weld the end pieces of plastic together. Make sure you do it well." }, { - "text": "To achieve an even surface, use the sanding machine to smooth the welded section.", + "text": "Now back to the sanding machine again. Smooth out the welded part to get that nice and evenly joint.", "_animationKey": "unique8pst6", "title": "Smooth out the welded part", "images": [ @@ -198,11 +198,11 @@ } ], "_animationKey": "uniquexz9av9", - "text": "## Completed Lampshade\n\nYour lampshade is finished." + "text": "And voilà! Your beautiful, eco-friendly lampshade is done." } ], "difficulty_level": "Medium", - "description": "## How to Bend a Plastic Sheet Without Heat or Mold\n\nThis guide demonstrates bending a plastic sheet using a method inspired by the woodworking technique known as kerfing, which bends wood without water or steam.", + "description": "We will show you how to bend a recycled plastic sheet from the sheet press without heat or mold.\n\nThis technique is inspired by a woodworking technique called ‘kerfing’. Kerfing is a wood bending method done without water or steam.\n", "creatorCountry": "id", "_contentModifiedTimestamp": "2023-06-14T11:02:21.722Z", "votedUsefulBy": [ @@ -369,9 +369,5 @@ "images": [] } }, - "content": "## How to Bend a Plastic Sheet Without Heat or Mold\n\nThis guide demonstrates bending a plastic sheet using a method inspired by the woodworking technique known as kerfing, which bends wood without water or steam.\n\n\nUser Location: Cikarang, Indonesia\n\nRequirements:\n- HDPE plastic board:\n - 11.8 in x 4.1 in, 0.2 in (thickness)\n - ⌀3.7 in, 0.2 in (thickness)\n- Portable sanding machine\n- Soldering iron\n- Table saw\n- Rope\n\nFirst, use the table saw to score the plastic. Cut to a depth of 0.12 inches (3 mm), maintaining a 0.20-inch (5 mm) gap between each cut. Ensure the board is scored perpendicular to the bend direction.\n\nThin the edges of the plastic board using a portable sander for a better fit in the subsequent step.\n\nNow bend it with care. Secure it using a rope.\n\n### Instructions for Soldering Plastic\n\nUsing a soldering iron, securely weld the plastic end pieces together. Ensure the bond is strong.\n\nTo achieve an even surface, use the sanding machine to smooth the welded section.\n\n## Completed Lampshade\n\nYour lampshade is finished.", - "keywords": "Bend plastic sheet, kerfing technique, HDPE plastic board, plastic sheet bending, plastic bending without heat, table saw plastic cutting, soldering plastic, sanding plastic, plastic lampshade creation, woodworking techniques plastic.", - "resources": "To bend a plastic sheet using kerfing-inspired techniques as described, the following tools and materials are required:\n\n### Tools\n\n- ~~[Portable sanding machine](example.com/sander)~~ (for edge thinning/smoothing)\n- ~~[Soldering iron](example.com/soldering)~~ (plastic welding)\n- ~~[Table saw](example.com/tablesaw)~~ (scoring cuts)\n\n### Hardware\n\n- ~~[HDPE plastic board](example.com/hdpe)~~ (11.8×4.1 in, ⌀3.7 in, 0.2 in thick)\n- ~~[Rope](example.com/rope)~~ (securing bends)\n\nNo specific software is needed for this method.", - "references": "## Articles\n\n- https://polysynthesis.au/blog-plastic-sheet-bending/\n- https://polysynthesis.au/bent-plastic/\n- https://www.justpolycarbonate.com/post/bending-polycarbonate-everything-you-need-to-know\n- https://exceliteplas.com/fabrication/bending-plastic/\n- https://www.caamatech.com/post/arcylic-bend-guide\n- https://www.thesprucecrafts.com/bend-sheet-acrylic-plexiglass-with-tools-2366806\n- https://weetect.com/polycarbonate-bending/\n- https://www.beeplastic.com/blogs/plastic-insights/a-beginner-s-guide-to-bending-abs-plastic-sheets-and-rods\n\n## Papers\n\n- https://apps.dtic.mil/sti/tr/pdf/AD0847865.pdf\n- https://libstore.ugent.be/fulltxt/RUG01/003/014/851/RUG01-003014851_2021_0001_AC.pdf\n\n## YouTube\n\n- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ovqnIBQuezA\n- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t4JGlWyVDLs\n- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CIBRmBxTPCA\n\n## Opensource Designs\n\n- https://community.preciousplastic.com/library/bend-plastic-sheets\n- https://www.stirpad.com/news/stir-news/kuo-duo-lends-bendability-to-plastic-boards-through-the-kerf-plastic-series/\n- https://www.ucl.ac.uk/bartlett/architecture/kerf-sculpting\n- https://community.preciousplastic.com/library/bend-with-the-sheetpress\n- https://www.instructables.com/Laser-Cut-Ambient-Light-With-Kerf-Bends/", - "brief": "Bend plastic sheets without heat using kerfing. Score, sand, and secure with ease. Perfect for crafting durable, smooth-edged projects like lampshades." + "content": "We will show you how to bend a recycled plastic sheet from the sheet press without heat or mold.\n\nThis technique is inspired by a woodworking technique called ‘kerfing’. Kerfing is a wood bending method done without water or steam.\n\n\n\nUser Location: Cikarang, Indonesia\n\nHere’s what you need:\n- The HDPE plastic board that you’re going to bend: \n - 30 cm x 10,5 cm, 5 mm (thickness)\n - ⌀9,5 cm, 5 mm (thickness) \n- A portable sanding machine\n- A soldering iron\n- A table saw\n- Rope\n\n\nFirst, we’re using the table saw to score the plastic. Cut 3 mm in depth while keeping a 5 mm distance between each cut. Make sure you’re scoring the board perpendicular to the direction of the bend.\n\nThin out the end sides of the plastic board using a portable sanding machine so that the sides will fit better in the next step.\n\nNow bend it carefully! Use a rope to tighten it in place.\n\nWith the help of a soldering iron, weld the end pieces of plastic together. Make sure you do it well.\n\nNow back to the sanding machine again. Smooth out the welded part to get that nice and evenly joint.\n\nAnd voilà! Your beautiful, eco-friendly lampshade is done." } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/laser-cut-stainless-steel-hopper/README.md b/howtos/laser-cut-stainless-steel-hopper/README.md index d84d7d164..76d9b980a 100644 --- a/howtos/laser-cut-stainless-steel-hopper/README.md +++ b/howtos/laser-cut-stainless-steel-hopper/README.md @@ -1,51 +1,31 @@ --- title: Laser cut stainless steel hopper slug: laser-cut-stainless-steel-hopper -description: ## How to Build a Shredder Hopper +description: This how-to explains how to easily create a hopper for the 2.1 shredder, using laser cut stainless sheet. +Since most shredders requires laser cut parts, you can add the shredder cutout to the list! +This design requires no welding, and can be completed in less that a day with on a angle grinder, a vise and a few rivets. +It features a laser cut plexiglass lid, so that you can see what's happening. -This guide outlines the simple process of creating a hopper for the 2.1 shredder using laser-cut stainless steel sheets. As shredders generally require laser-cut components, you can include the shredder cutout in your fabrication plans. - -### Requirements -- No welding necessary -- Completion time: less than a day - -### Tools Needed -- Angle grinder -- Vise -- Rivets - -### Features -- Includes a laser-cut plexiglass lid for visibility of the shredding process tags: ["shredder"] category: Guides difficulty: Medium time: < 1 day -keywords: shredder hopper, laser-cut stainless steel, plexiglass lid, sheet metal bending, angle grinder, fabrication plans, stainless steel sheets, local fabrication lab, mounting brackets, heat gun +keywords: location: Ajaccio, France --- # Laser cut stainless steel hopper ![Laser cut stainless steel hopper](P1000969.JPG) -## How to Build a Shredder Hopper +This how-to explains how to easily create a hopper for the 2.1 shredder, using laser cut stainless sheet. +Since most shredders requires laser cut parts, you can add the shredder cutout to the list! +This design requires no welding, and can be completed in less that a day with on a angle grinder, a vise and a few rivets. +It features a laser cut plexiglass lid, so that you can see what's happening. -This guide outlines the simple process of creating a hopper for the 2.1 shredder using laser-cut stainless steel sheets. As shredders generally require laser-cut components, you can include the shredder cutout in your fabrication plans. - -### Requirements -- No welding necessary -- Completion time: less than a day - -### Tools Needed -- Angle grinder -- Vise -- Rivets - -### Features -- Includes a laser-cut plexiglass lid for visibility of the shredding process User Location: Ajaccio, France ## Steps ### Step 1: Cut the parts -Submit the files to a laser cutting service. The design uses 1.5 mm (0.06 inches) thick stainless steel and 3 mm (0.12 inches) thick plexiglass. Plexiglass may also be processed at a local fabrication lab. +Send the files to your local laser cutting shop. This design requires 1.5 mm thick stainless steel (more durable than regular steel, but it can work just fine), and 3 mm thick plexyglass. For plexyglass, it can maybe be laser cut in your local fablab too! ![trémis mmdd.JPG](./tremis_mmdd.JPG) @@ -55,7 +35,10 @@ Submit the files to a laser cutting service. The design uses 1.5 mm (0.06 inches ### Step 2: Prepare the folds -After completing the laser cutting, use an angle grinder with a 1/16 inch (1.5 mm) cutting disc to score the dotted lines. Grind halfway through the stainless sheet to facilitate bending. When grinding the small bend line for the mounting brackets, ensure the grind is above the line. This alignment is crucial to keep the mounting brackets flush with the hopper top and prevent plastic leakage. +Once the laser cutting is done, you need to mark the dotted lines using a angle grinder and a thin cutting disc (1.5 mm thick is good). +Grind through half the thickness of the stainless sheet to ease up the bending process. +Small advice: when grinding the small bend line (for the mounting brackets), make sure the grind ABOVE the line (and not below), otherwise the mounting brackets will not be flush with hopper top, and will let plastics leak all over. + ![déplié 2.JPG](./deplie_2.JPG) @@ -68,22 +51,19 @@ After completing the laser cutting, use an angle grinder with a 1/16 inch (1.5 m ### Step 3: Bend the sheet and rivet -### Instructions for Bending Sheet Metal +Bend the sheet along the line you marked. If you have a sheet bended it's way easier! +Clamp the sheet in a solid vise, and bend use pliers to bend along the lines. +It is easier to start with the large bends, and then proceed to the bends for attachment on the hopper. +Small advice here: if you feel too much resistance while bending, stop and mark the bends a little deeper so that you obtain a nice bend. -1. **Position the Sheet**: Place the sheet in a sturdy vise along the marked line. - -2. **Bend the Sheet**: Use pliers to bend the sheet along the lines, starting with larger bends. - -3. **Attention to Resistance**: If significant resistance is encountered, stop and deepen the markings to achieve a smoother bend. - -Note: Begin with larger bends before handling the hopper attachment bends. ![P1000971.JPG](./P1000971.JPG) ### Step 4: Bending the lid -To simplify assembly, I marked lines on the fold points when laser cutting the plexiglass. To bend the edges, I clamped the part in a vise at the intended bend line and applied medium heat from a heat gun at approximately 8 inches (20 cm) away from the plexiglass until achieving a 90° angle. Avoid bringing the heat gun too close to prevent surface bubbling. Practice on a scrap piece of plexiglass or prepare multiple lids for best results. +For ease of use I added line along the fold lines during laser cutting the plexiglass. +To bend the lips, I secured the part in a vise just on the futur bend line, and used a heat gun on medium heat at about 20 cm on the plexiglass until the angle is 90 °. Beware of not get too close with the heatgun otherwise you'll create bubble on the surface. I recommend to train on a scrap piece of plexiglass (or laser cut multiple lids) ![P1000973.JPG](./P1000973.JPG) @@ -96,7 +76,7 @@ To simplify assembly, I marked lines on the fold points when laser cutting the p ### Step 5: Here you go! -You now have a functional hopper for your shredder. I used 230-grit sandpaper to smooth the surface and attached a small hinge at the back for the lid. +You now have a functional, aircraft lookin' hopper for your shredder! I sanded mine with 230 grint sand paper to even out the surface, and added a small hinge on the back for the lid: ![P1000972.JPG](./P1000972.JPG) @@ -108,45 +88,4 @@ You now have a functional hopper for your shredder. I used 230-grit sandpaper to ![150087428_799842214074822_7288086614494287353_n.jpg](./150087428_799842214074822_7288086614494287353_n.jpg) ## Resources -### Tools - -- Angle grinder with 1.5 mm cutting disc -- Vise -- Rivets -- Pliers -- Heat gun - -### Materials & Hardware - -- 1.5 mm stainless steel sheet -- 3 mm plexiglass sheet -- Small hinge -- 230-grit sandpaper - -### Services - -- Laser cutting service (for stainless steel and plexiglass) -- Local fabrication lab (optional plexiglass processing) - -Links to specific services are not provided in the source text, but generic laser-cutting providers like [Ponoko](https://www.ponoko.com) or local Ajaccio workshops can fulfill these requirements. -## References -## Articles - -- [Effective Laser for Cutting Different Kinds of Stainless Steels](https://www.xometry.com/resources/sheet/laser-for-cutting-stainless-steel/) - -## Papers - -- [Design and Construction of an Automated Paper Shredder with a Hopper](https://journals.nipes.org/index.php/aedt/article/download/661/660) -- ~~[Open Source Waste Plastic Granulator](https://research.aalto.fi/files/40853638/ELEC_Pearce_Open_source_waste_plastic_granulator.pdf)~~ -- [Shredding Machine Development for Recycling Process of Waste Plastic Bottles](https://www.rroij.com/open-access/shredding-machine-development-for-recycling-process-of-waste-plastic-bottles.php?aid=91688) -- [Design and Development of Multi Purpose Shredding Machine](https://www.irjmets.com/uploadedfiles/paper/issue_3_march_2024/50483/final/fin_irjmets1710528192.pdf) - -## YouTube - -- [MN#54 - We made a new shredder!](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FYwUfRg6q1g) -- [[filtered] - Build the shredder (part 3.1)](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VFIPXgrk7u0) - -## Opensource Designs - -- [SHREDDER FULLY BUILT WITH HOPPER - 21 x 5MM 3 BLADE ROTATING SHEAR](https://preciousplasticnewyork.com/products/22-blades-shredder-with-hopper) -- [Open Source Shredder v21.10](https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/Open_Source_Shredder_v21.10) \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/laser-cut-stainless-steel-hopper/config.json b/howtos/laser-cut-stainless-steel-hopper/config.json index 3ab2441b3..7b47f6f44 100644 --- a/howtos/laser-cut-stainless-steel-hopper/config.json +++ b/howtos/laser-cut-stainless-steel-hopper/config.json @@ -37,7 +37,7 @@ null, null ], - "description": "## How to Build a Shredder Hopper\n\nThis guide outlines the simple process of creating a hopper for the 2.1 shredder using laser-cut stainless steel sheets. As shredders generally require laser-cut components, you can include the shredder cutout in your fabrication plans.\n\n### Requirements\n- No welding necessary\n- Completion time: less than a day\n\n### Tools Needed\n- Angle grinder\n- Vise\n- Rivets\n\n### Features\n- Includes a laser-cut plexiglass lid for visibility of the shredding process", + "description": "This how-to explains how to easily create a hopper for the 2.1 shredder, using laser cut stainless sheet. \nSince most shredders requires laser cut parts, you can add the shredder cutout to the list!\nThis design requires no welding, and can be completed in less that a day with on a angle grinder, a vise and a few rivets.\nIt features a laser cut plexiglass lid, so that you can see what's happening.\n", "_deleted": false, "_created": "2021-03-23T09:17:47.463Z", "category": { @@ -81,11 +81,11 @@ "alt": "lid.JPG" } ], - "text": "Submit the files to a laser cutting service. The design uses 1.5 mm (0.06 inches) thick stainless steel and 3 mm (0.12 inches) thick plexiglass. Plexiglass may also be processed at a local fabrication lab.", + "text": "Send the files to your local laser cutting shop. This design requires 1.5 mm thick stainless steel (more durable than regular steel, but it can work just fine), and 3 mm thick plexyglass. For plexyglass, it can maybe be laser cut in your local fablab too!", "_animationKey": "unique2" }, { - "text": "After completing the laser cutting, use an angle grinder with a 1/16 inch (1.5 mm) cutting disc to score the dotted lines. Grind halfway through the stainless sheet to facilitate bending. When grinding the small bend line for the mounting brackets, ensure the grind is above the line. This alignment is crucial to keep the mounting brackets flush with the hopper top and prevent plastic leakage.", + "text": "Once the laser cutting is done, you need to mark the dotted lines using a angle grinder and a thin cutting disc (1.5 mm thick is good).\nGrind through half the thickness of the stainless sheet to ease up the bending process. \nSmall advice: when grinding the small bend line (for the mounting brackets), make sure the grind ABOVE the line (and not below), otherwise the mounting brackets will not be flush with hopper top, and will let plastics leak all over.\n", "images": [ { "timeCreated": "2021-03-23T09:17:37.999Z", @@ -143,11 +143,11 @@ } ], "title": "Bend the sheet and rivet", - "text": "### Instructions for Bending Sheet Metal\n\n1. **Position the Sheet**: Place the sheet in a sturdy vise along the marked line.\n\n2. **Bend the Sheet**: Use pliers to bend the sheet along the lines, starting with larger bends. \n\n3. **Attention to Resistance**: If significant resistance is encountered, stop and deepen the markings to achieve a smoother bend.\n\nNote: Begin with larger bends before handling the hopper attachment bends.", + "text": "Bend the sheet along the line you marked. If you have a sheet bended it's way easier!\nClamp the sheet in a solid vise, and bend use pliers to bend along the lines.\nIt is easier to start with the large bends, and then proceed to the bends for attachment on the hopper.\nSmall advice here: if you feel too much resistance while bending, stop and mark the bends a little deeper so that you obtain a nice bend. \n", "_animationKey": "unique3" }, { - "text": "To simplify assembly, I marked lines on the fold points when laser cutting the plexiglass. To bend the edges, I clamped the part in a vise at the intended bend line and applied medium heat from a heat gun at approximately 8 inches (20 cm) away from the plexiglass until achieving a 90° angle. Avoid bringing the heat gun too close to prevent surface bubbling. Practice on a scrap piece of plexiglass or prepare multiple lids for best results.", + "text": "For ease of use I added line along the fold lines during laser cutting the plexiglass.\nTo bend the lips, I secured the part in a vise just on the futur bend line, and used a heat gun on medium heat at about 20 cm on the plexiglass until the angle is 90 °. Beware of not get too close with the heatgun otherwise you'll create bubble on the surface. I recommend to train on a scrap piece of plexiglass (or laser cut multiple lids)", "images": [ { "contentType": "image/jpeg", @@ -191,7 +191,7 @@ }, { "_animationKey": "uniquejabru", - "text": "You now have a functional hopper for your shredder. I used 230-grit sandpaper to smooth the surface and attached a small hinge at the back for the lid.", + "text": "You now have a functional, aircraft lookin' hopper for your shredder! I sanded mine with 230 grint sand paper to even out the surface, and added a small hinge on the back for the lid:", "images": [ { "timeCreated": "2021-03-23T09:17:42.167Z", @@ -377,9 +377,5 @@ "urls": [] } }, - "content": "## How to Build a Shredder Hopper\n\nThis guide outlines the simple process of creating a hopper for the 2.1 shredder using laser-cut stainless steel sheets. As shredders generally require laser-cut components, you can include the shredder cutout in your fabrication plans.\n\n### Requirements\n- No welding necessary\n- Completion time: less than a day\n\n### Tools Needed\n- Angle grinder\n- Vise\n- Rivets\n\n### Features\n- Includes a laser-cut plexiglass lid for visibility of the shredding process\n\n\nUser Location: Ajaccio, France\n\nSubmit the files to a laser cutting service. The design uses 1.5 mm (0.06 inches) thick stainless steel and 3 mm (0.12 inches) thick plexiglass. Plexiglass may also be processed at a local fabrication lab.\n\nAfter completing the laser cutting, use an angle grinder with a 1/16 inch (1.5 mm) cutting disc to score the dotted lines. Grind halfway through the stainless sheet to facilitate bending. When grinding the small bend line for the mounting brackets, ensure the grind is above the line. This alignment is crucial to keep the mounting brackets flush with the hopper top and prevent plastic leakage.\n\n### Instructions for Bending Sheet Metal\n\n1. **Position the Sheet**: Place the sheet in a sturdy vise along the marked line.\n\n2. **Bend the Sheet**: Use pliers to bend the sheet along the lines, starting with larger bends. \n\n3. **Attention to Resistance**: If significant resistance is encountered, stop and deepen the markings to achieve a smoother bend.\n\nNote: Begin with larger bends before handling the hopper attachment bends.\n\nTo simplify assembly, I marked lines on the fold points when laser cutting the plexiglass. To bend the edges, I clamped the part in a vise at the intended bend line and applied medium heat from a heat gun at approximately 8 inches (20 cm) away from the plexiglass until achieving a 90° angle. Avoid bringing the heat gun too close to prevent surface bubbling. Practice on a scrap piece of plexiglass or prepare multiple lids for best results.\n\nYou now have a functional hopper for your shredder. I used 230-grit sandpaper to smooth the surface and attached a small hinge at the back for the lid.", - "keywords": "shredder hopper, laser-cut stainless steel, plexiglass lid, sheet metal bending, angle grinder, fabrication plans, stainless steel sheets, local fabrication lab, mounting brackets, heat gun", - "resources": "### Tools\n\n- Angle grinder with 1.5 mm cutting disc\n- Vise\n- Rivets\n- Pliers\n- Heat gun\n\n### Materials & Hardware\n\n- 1.5 mm stainless steel sheet\n- 3 mm plexiglass sheet\n- Small hinge\n- 230-grit sandpaper\n\n### Services\n\n- Laser cutting service (for stainless steel and plexiglass)\n- Local fabrication lab (optional plexiglass processing)\n\nLinks to specific services are not provided in the source text, but generic laser-cutting providers like [Ponoko](https://www.ponoko.com) or local Ajaccio workshops can fulfill these requirements.", - "references": "## Articles\n\n- [Effective Laser for Cutting Different Kinds of Stainless Steels](https://www.xometry.com/resources/sheet/laser-for-cutting-stainless-steel/)\n\n## Papers\n\n- [Design and Construction of an Automated Paper Shredder with a Hopper](https://journals.nipes.org/index.php/aedt/article/download/661/660)\n- ~~[Open Source Waste Plastic Granulator](https://research.aalto.fi/files/40853638/ELEC_Pearce_Open_source_waste_plastic_granulator.pdf)~~\n- [Shredding Machine Development for Recycling Process of Waste Plastic Bottles](https://www.rroij.com/open-access/shredding-machine-development-for-recycling-process-of-waste-plastic-bottles.php?aid=91688)\n- [Design and Development of Multi Purpose Shredding Machine](https://www.irjmets.com/uploadedfiles/paper/issue_3_march_2024/50483/final/fin_irjmets1710528192.pdf)\n\n## YouTube\n\n- [MN#54 - We made a new shredder!](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FYwUfRg6q1g)\n- [[filtered] - Build the shredder (part 3.1)](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VFIPXgrk7u0)\n\n## Opensource Designs\n\n- [SHREDDER FULLY BUILT WITH HOPPER - 21 x 5MM 3 BLADE ROTATING SHEAR](https://preciousplasticnewyork.com/products/22-blades-shredder-with-hopper)\n- [Open Source Shredder v21.10](https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/Open_Source_Shredder_v21.10)", - "brief": "Build a shredder hopper using laser-cut stainless steel and plexiglass, no welding required. Complete in under a day with just an angle grinder, vise, and rivets." + "content": "This how-to explains how to easily create a hopper for the 2.1 shredder, using laser cut stainless sheet. \nSince most shredders requires laser cut parts, you can add the shredder cutout to the list!\nThis design requires no welding, and can be completed in less that a day with on a angle grinder, a vise and a few rivets.\nIt features a laser cut plexiglass lid, so that you can see what's happening.\n\n\n\nUser Location: Ajaccio, France\n\nSend the files to your local laser cutting shop. This design requires 1.5 mm thick stainless steel (more durable than regular steel, but it can work just fine), and 3 mm thick plexyglass. For plexyglass, it can maybe be laser cut in your local fablab too!\n\nOnce the laser cutting is done, you need to mark the dotted lines using a angle grinder and a thin cutting disc (1.5 mm thick is good).\nGrind through half the thickness of the stainless sheet to ease up the bending process. \nSmall advice: when grinding the small bend line (for the mounting brackets), make sure the grind ABOVE the line (and not below), otherwise the mounting brackets will not be flush with hopper top, and will let plastics leak all over.\n\n\nBend the sheet along the line you marked. If you have a sheet bended it's way easier!\nClamp the sheet in a solid vise, and bend use pliers to bend along the lines.\nIt is easier to start with the large bends, and then proceed to the bends for attachment on the hopper.\nSmall advice here: if you feel too much resistance while bending, stop and mark the bends a little deeper so that you obtain a nice bend. \n\n\nFor ease of use I added line along the fold lines during laser cutting the plexiglass.\nTo bend the lips, I secured the part in a vise just on the futur bend line, and used a heat gun on medium heat at about 20 cm on the plexiglass until the angle is 90 °. Beware of not get too close with the heatgun otherwise you'll create bubble on the surface. I recommend to train on a scrap piece of plexiglass (or laser cut multiple lids)\n\nYou now have a functional, aircraft lookin' hopper for your shredder! I sanded mine with 230 grint sand paper to even out the surface, and added a small hinge on the back for the lid:" } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/lets-make-rope-from-single-use-plastic-bags/README.md b/howtos/lets-make-rope-from-single-use-plastic-bags/README.md index 2035d1767..4a2ef107c 100644 --- a/howtos/lets-make-rope-from-single-use-plastic-bags/README.md +++ b/howtos/lets-make-rope-from-single-use-plastic-bags/README.md @@ -1,85 +1,36 @@ --- title: Let's Make Rope from Single-Use Plastic Bags! slug: lets-make-rope-from-single-use-plastic-bags -description: ## How to Make Plastic Rope - -Create vibrant rope using single-use plastic bags with some patience and handmade effort. +description: Let's make plastic rope! With a bit of patience -- and some handmade passion -- you can create colorful rope from single-use plastic bags. tags: ["LDPE","HDPE"] category: uncategorized difficulty: Easy time: < 1 week -keywords: plastic rope making, upcycled plastic projects, DIY plastic rope, recycling plastic bags, eco-friendly crafts, handmade plastic rope, plastic bag crafts, sustainable rope creation, plastic rope tutorial, macramé with plastic rope +keywords: location: Praya Barat, Indonesia --- # Let's Make Rope from Single-Use Plastic Bags! ![Let's Make Rope from Single-Use Plastic Bags!](PK-Tali_COVER.png) -## How to Make Plastic Rope - -Create vibrant rope using single-use plastic bags with some patience and handmade effort. +Let's make plastic rope! With a bit of patience -- and some handmade passion -- you can create colorful rope from single-use plastic bags. User Location: Praya Barat, Indonesia ## Steps ### Step 1: Recycled plastic rope in 5 easy steps! -# How to Make Plastic Rope in Five Steps +Let's make recycled plastic rope in five easy steps! -1. **Collect** -2. **Clean** -3. **Cut** -4. **Combine** -5. **Create** +1. Collect +2. Clean +3. Cut +4. Combine +5. Create -Refer to the PDF or watch the video for detailed instructions. Let your creativity guide your experiments. +Take a look at the PDF -- or check out the video for our step-by-step process on how to make your own plastic rope ... and then experiment with your own creative inspiration! -### Pro Tip: -After creating your rope, roll it into balls of 33-330 feet (10-100 meters). You can make various items: bracelets or keychains (10-16 feet or 3-5 meters), bags (66-164 feet or 20-50 meters), or wall hangings (328-984 feet or 100-300 meters). Use online searches for macramé patterns as a guide. +PRO TIP: Once you have your rope, roll it into balls of 10-100 meters. Then you can experiment with making bracelets or keychains (3-5 meters), bags (20-50 meters), wall hangings (100-300 meters) and more. Simply do an online search for traditional macrame patterns -- anything you can create with regular rope, you can experiment with plastic rope! + +Have fun! -Enjoy the process! ## Resources -### Tools - -- Scissors -- Heat source (lighter or iron for sealing) -- Measuring tape (for cutting lengths) -- Clips (to hold strips during assembly) -- Workspace/table - -### Software/Resources - -- Online macramé patterns (search-based guides) -- PDF instructions (referenced in tutorial) -- Video tutorial (referenced in tutorial) -- Creative design inspiration (experimentation) -- Internet access (for research) - -### Hardware/Materials - -- Single-use plastic bags (collected) -- Soap and water (for cleaning) -- Storage spools/balls (for rolled rope) -- (Optional dye for color customization) -- Cleaning rag/towel -## References -## References - -### Articles - -- [How to Make Rope From Plastic Bottles - Instructables](https://www.instructables.com/How-to-Make-Rope-from-Plastic-Bottles/) -- [Turn plastic bags into usable rope - 1 Million Women](https://www.1millionwomen.com.au/blog/turn-plastic-bags-usable-rope-super-easy-diy/) -- [Make a Jump Rope with Plastic Bags - WPPL Blogs](https://blogs.westlakelibrary.org/2022/08/make-a-jump-rope-with-plastic-bags/) -- [How to Make a Rope Out of Plastic Bags - Art of Manliness](https://www.artofmanliness.com/skills/manly-know-how/how-to-make-a-rope-out-of-plastic-bags/) -- [Kid's Craft: Plastic Bag Jump Rope - Bowdabra](https://www.bowdabra.com/blog/2021/03/25/kids-craft-how-to-upcycle-plastic-bags-into-a-cool-jump-rope/) -- [What is Paper Rope? - Paperbags Limited](https://paperbagsltd.co.ke/what-is-paper-rope/) - -### YouTube Videos - -- [How To Make Rope From Plastic Bottle - YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TRy2sD_k57g) -- [Craft Time: Plastic Bag Skipping Rope - YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xGRSzsVw1cQ) -- [Make ROPE from plastic grocery bags - YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9CJ9xto5f5M) -- [How to Make Rope Out Of Recycled Plastic Bags - YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3TpN4WT61hU) -- [Make Rope from Plastic Bags (without tools) - YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6KiZXRK5h44) - -### Opensource Designs - -- [Plastic Bag Jump Rope Instructions (PDF)](https://pprd.montgomeryschoolsmd.org/siteassets/schools/elementary-schools/p-s/rockviewes/uploadedfiles/plastic-bag-jump-rope-instructions.pdf) \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/lets-make-rope-from-single-use-plastic-bags/config.json b/howtos/lets-make-rope-from-single-use-plastic-bags/config.json index 84e277652..6c0d00573 100644 --- a/howtos/lets-make-rope-from-single-use-plastic-bags/config.json +++ b/howtos/lets-make-rope-from-single-use-plastic-bags/config.json @@ -6,7 +6,7 @@ "LDPE", "HDPE" ], - "description": "## How to Make Plastic Rope\n\nCreate vibrant rope using single-use plastic bags with some patience and handmade effort.", + "description": "Let's make plastic rope! With a bit of patience -- and some handmade passion -- you can create colorful rope from single-use plastic bags. ", "_created": "2021-11-05T22:57:08.876Z", "total_downloads": 78, "votedUsefulBy": [ @@ -35,7 +35,7 @@ "steps": [ { "images": [], - "text": "# How to Make Plastic Rope in Five Steps\n\n1. **Collect**\n2. **Clean**\n3. **Cut**\n4. **Combine**\n5. **Create**\n\nRefer to the PDF or watch the video for detailed instructions. Let your creativity guide your experiments.\n\n### Pro Tip:\nAfter creating your rope, roll it into balls of 33-330 feet (10-100 meters). You can make various items: bracelets or keychains (10-16 feet or 3-5 meters), bags (66-164 feet or 20-50 meters), or wall hangings (328-984 feet or 100-300 meters). Use online searches for macramé patterns as a guide.\n\nEnjoy the process!", + "text": "Let's make recycled plastic rope in five easy steps! \n\n1. Collect \n2. Clean\n3. Cut\n4. Combine \n5. Create \n\nTake a look at the PDF -- or check out the video for our step-by-step process on how to make your own plastic rope ... and then experiment with your own creative inspiration!\n\nPRO TIP: Once you have your rope, roll it into balls of 10-100 meters. Then you can experiment with making bracelets or keychains (3-5 meters), bags (20-50 meters), wall hangings (100-300 meters) and more. Simply do an online search for traditional macrame patterns -- anything you can create with regular rope, you can experiment with plastic rope!\n\nHave fun!\n", "videoUrl": "https://youtu.be/GQeBtTvB6Bc", "_animationKey": "unique1", "title": "Recycled plastic rope in 5 easy steps!" @@ -200,9 +200,5 @@ "category": { "label": "uncategorized" }, - "content": "## How to Make Plastic Rope\n\nCreate vibrant rope using single-use plastic bags with some patience and handmade effort.\n\n\nUser Location: Praya Barat, Indonesia\n\n# How to Make Plastic Rope in Five Steps\n\n1. **Collect**\n2. **Clean**\n3. **Cut**\n4. **Combine**\n5. **Create**\n\nRefer to the PDF or watch the video for detailed instructions. Let your creativity guide your experiments.\n\n### Pro Tip:\nAfter creating your rope, roll it into balls of 33-330 feet (10-100 meters). You can make various items: bracelets or keychains (10-16 feet or 3-5 meters), bags (66-164 feet or 20-50 meters), or wall hangings (328-984 feet or 100-300 meters). Use online searches for macramé patterns as a guide.\n\nEnjoy the process!", - "keywords": "plastic rope making, upcycled plastic projects, DIY plastic rope, recycling plastic bags, eco-friendly crafts, handmade plastic rope, plastic bag crafts, sustainable rope creation, plastic rope tutorial, macramé with plastic rope", - "resources": "### Tools\n\n- Scissors\n- Heat source (lighter or iron for sealing)\n- Measuring tape (for cutting lengths)\n- Clips (to hold strips during assembly)\n- Workspace/table\n\n### Software/Resources\n\n- Online macramé patterns (search-based guides)\n- PDF instructions (referenced in tutorial)\n- Video tutorial (referenced in tutorial)\n- Creative design inspiration (experimentation)\n- Internet access (for research)\n\n### Hardware/Materials\n\n- Single-use plastic bags (collected)\n- Soap and water (for cleaning)\n- Storage spools/balls (for rolled rope)\n- (Optional dye for color customization)\n- Cleaning rag/towel", - "references": "## References\n\n### Articles\n\n- [How to Make Rope From Plastic Bottles - Instructables](https://www.instructables.com/How-to-Make-Rope-from-Plastic-Bottles/)\n- [Turn plastic bags into usable rope - 1 Million Women](https://www.1millionwomen.com.au/blog/turn-plastic-bags-usable-rope-super-easy-diy/)\n- [Make a Jump Rope with Plastic Bags - WPPL Blogs](https://blogs.westlakelibrary.org/2022/08/make-a-jump-rope-with-plastic-bags/)\n- [How to Make a Rope Out of Plastic Bags - Art of Manliness](https://www.artofmanliness.com/skills/manly-know-how/how-to-make-a-rope-out-of-plastic-bags/)\n- [Kid's Craft: Plastic Bag Jump Rope - Bowdabra](https://www.bowdabra.com/blog/2021/03/25/kids-craft-how-to-upcycle-plastic-bags-into-a-cool-jump-rope/)\n- [What is Paper Rope? - Paperbags Limited](https://paperbagsltd.co.ke/what-is-paper-rope/)\n\n### YouTube Videos\n\n- [How To Make Rope From Plastic Bottle - YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TRy2sD_k57g)\n- [Craft Time: Plastic Bag Skipping Rope - YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xGRSzsVw1cQ)\n- [Make ROPE from plastic grocery bags - YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9CJ9xto5f5M)\n- [How to Make Rope Out Of Recycled Plastic Bags - YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3TpN4WT61hU)\n- [Make Rope from Plastic Bags (without tools) - YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6KiZXRK5h44)\n\n### Opensource Designs\n\n- [Plastic Bag Jump Rope Instructions (PDF)](https://pprd.montgomeryschoolsmd.org/siteassets/schools/elementary-schools/p-s/rockviewes/uploadedfiles/plastic-bag-jump-rope-instructions.pdf)", - "brief": "Turn single-use plastic bags into vibrant ropes with this DIY guide. Follow 5 simple steps and create eco-friendly crafts like bracelets, bags, and wall hangings." + "content": "Let's make plastic rope! With a bit of patience -- and some handmade passion -- you can create colorful rope from single-use plastic bags. \n\n\nUser Location: Praya Barat, Indonesia\n\nLet's make recycled plastic rope in five easy steps! \n\n1. Collect \n2. Clean\n3. Cut\n4. Combine \n5. Create \n\nTake a look at the PDF -- or check out the video for our step-by-step process on how to make your own plastic rope ... and then experiment with your own creative inspiration!\n\nPRO TIP: Once you have your rope, roll it into balls of 10-100 meters. Then you can experiment with making bracelets or keychains (3-5 meters), bags (20-50 meters), wall hangings (100-300 meters) and more. Simply do an online search for traditional macrame patterns -- anything you can create with regular rope, you can experiment with plastic rope!\n\nHave fun!\n" } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/log-splitter-injector-upgrade/README.md b/howtos/log-splitter-injector-upgrade/README.md index f26dfb1e3..93989f086 100644 --- a/howtos/log-splitter-injector-upgrade/README.md +++ b/howtos/log-splitter-injector-upgrade/README.md @@ -1,62 +1,55 @@ --- title: Log splitter injector upgrade slug: log-splitter-injector-upgrade -description: ### How To Upgrade an Injection Mould Machine with a Log Splitter +description: Need a little more power, or just feeling lazy? We've upgraded our PP injection mould machine using a 5T log splitter - this has made a world of difference to our production capabilities. In these videos, we discuss how we did it, as well as our process for creating thick parts. -Seeking increased power or efficiency? We enhanced our injection mould machine by integrating a 5-ton (approximately 4.5 metric tons) log splitter, significantly improving production capabilities. These videos outline our methods, including the process for producing thick parts. - -**Caution:** This upgrade involves dangerous hydraulic machinery. Exercise caution. +Note: THIS UPGRADE IS DANGEROUS! Please take care with hydraulic machinery. tags: ["injection","hack"] category: Machines difficulty: Medium time: < 1 week -keywords: injection mould machine upgrade, log splitter integration, hydraulic machinery safety, Melbourne Australia injection machine, steel cutting welding drilling skills, injection molding process video, large complex product manufacturing, machine pressure monitoring, injection machine quick release, injection moulding educational guide +keywords: location: Melbourne, Australia --- # Log splitter injector upgrade ![Log splitter injector upgrade](HowToCOVER_InjectionMouldLogSplitter.png) -### How To Upgrade an Injection Mould Machine with a Log Splitter +Need a little more power, or just feeling lazy? We've upgraded our PP injection mould machine using a 5T log splitter - this has made a world of difference to our production capabilities. In these videos, we discuss how we did it, as well as our process for creating thick parts. -Seeking increased power or efficiency? We enhanced our injection mould machine by integrating a 5-ton (approximately 4.5 metric tons) log splitter, significantly improving production capabilities. These videos outline our methods, including the process for producing thick parts. - -**Caution:** This upgrade involves dangerous hydraulic machinery. Exercise caution. +Note: THIS UPGRADE IS DANGEROUS! Please take care with hydraulic machinery. User Location: Melbourne, Australia ## Steps ### Step 1: How we built it -This guide details the upgrade of the Injection Machine. +Here, we're covering the upgrade to the Injection Machine. -Requirements: -- An injection machine -- A 5-ton (4.5 metric tons) log splitter -- Skills in cutting steel, welding, and drilling -- Hopper (refer to attached .zip file) +You'll need: +• A [filtered] injection machine +• A 5T log splitter +• Ability to cut steel, weld and drill holes +• Hopper (see .zip file attached) -Direct link to the log splitter used: +Below is the direct link to the particular log splitter we used: www.bunnings.com.au/homelite-2200w-5t-electric-log-splitter_p0044725 ### Step 2: How we use it -In this video, we demonstrate the use of our hydraulic injection molding machine, which we designed for producing larger and more complex products. +In this video, we walk you through how we use our hydraulic injection moulding machine. We designed this machine to assist us in creating larger, thicker and 'trickier' products. -Due to safety concerns, monitoring the pressure within the barrel is advisable. While we initially employed a load cell, it limited stroke length. We now either add vents to our molds or measure the appropriate amount of plastic for each shot. +As safety is a concern, it may be helpful to include something to monitor pressure within the barrel. Initially, we were using a load cell, however as it reduced our stroke length, we are now either adding vents to our moulds or dosing the barrel with the correct amount of plastic for each shot. ### Step 3: Build your own! -### Machine Upgrade Tips +This machine may not suit all workshops, however it has certainly been worth it's weight in gold for us! -This machine may not suit all workshops, but it has proven invaluable for us. +If you plan on upgrading your machine, here are a few things to try: +• Monitor pressure. We used a load cell (see second image) in our first version, however it shortened our stroke length and we are now weighing each shot +• Change the orientation to suit your workshop. +• Create a quick release that will work on a moving barrel (and share the How-To!) -If you plan to upgrade your machine, consider the following: +Finally, be careful. We do not accept any responsibly for loss or damages - this 'How-To' is intended to be educational not instructional. -- **Monitor Pressure**: We initially used a load cell (see second image), which reduced our stroke length. We now weigh each shot. - -- **Orientation Adjustment**: Change the orientation to fit your workshop. - -- **Quick Release**: Develop a quick release for a moving barrel. - -Please exercise caution. We do not accept responsibility for any loss or damage. This guide is for educational purposes only. +Follow us @​​​​​​​​​​​​​​preciousplasticmelbourne and tag us in your upgrade! ![Vert.PNG](./Vert.PNG) @@ -65,44 +58,4 @@ Please exercise caution. We do not accept responsibility for any loss or damage. ![V1 splitter.jpg](./V1_splitter.jpg) ## Resources -### Required Hardware - -- Injection mould machine -- ~~[Homelite 2200W 5T Electric Log Splitter](www.bunnings.com.au/homelite-2200w-5t-electric-log-splitter_p0044725)~~ (5-ton capacity) -- Hydraulic press system -- Hopper (design files included in attached .zip) -- Load cell (initially used for pressure monitoring) - -### Required Tools - -- Welding equipment (steel fabrication) -- Cutting tools (steel modification) -- Drilling machinery (component assembly) -- Quick-release mechanism components (custom fabrication) -- Weighing scale (for shot measurement) - -### Software - -- No specific software mentioned (hopper design files may require CAD tools) - -*** - -*Note: The tutorial emphasizes safety precautions and workshop-specific adaptations.* -## References -## References - -### Articles - -- https://formlabs.com/blog/diy-injection-molding/ -- https://www.engelglobal.com/en/us/engel-customer-service/machine-retrofit-injection-molding -- https://www.topstarmachine.com/what-safety-features-can-you-look-for-in-a-plastic-injection-molding-machine/ - -### YouTube - -- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M28Pbrm7wzE -- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uR8wmNgJvdU - -### Open Source Designs - -- https://community.preciousplastic.com/library/log-splitter-injector-upgrade -- https://community.preciousplastic.com/research/fully-automatic-injection-machine \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/log-splitter-injector-upgrade/config.json b/howtos/log-splitter-injector-upgrade/config.json index f538bad92..e1198295f 100644 --- a/howtos/log-splitter-injector-upgrade/config.json +++ b/howtos/log-splitter-injector-upgrade/config.json @@ -26,7 +26,7 @@ "steps": [ { "images": [], - "text": "This guide details the upgrade of the Injection Machine.\n\nRequirements:\n- An injection machine\n- A 5-ton (4.5 metric tons) log splitter\n- Skills in cutting steel, welding, and drilling\n- Hopper (refer to attached .zip file)\n\nDirect link to the log splitter used:\nwww.bunnings.com.au/homelite-2200w-5t-electric-log-splitter_p0044725", + "text": "Here, we're covering the upgrade to the Injection Machine.\n\nYou'll need:\n• A [filtered] injection machine\n• A 5T log splitter\n• Ability to cut steel, weld and drill holes\n• Hopper (see .zip file attached)\n\nBelow is the direct link to the particular log splitter we used:\nwww.bunnings.com.au/homelite-2200w-5t-electric-log-splitter_p0044725", "videoUrl": "https://youtu.be/uR8wmNgJvdU", "title": "How we built it", "_animationKey": "unique1" @@ -35,7 +35,7 @@ "videoUrl": "https://youtu.be/8CqJJLTXk5w", "images": [], "title": "How we use it", - "text": "In this video, we demonstrate the use of our hydraulic injection molding machine, which we designed for producing larger and more complex products.\n\nDue to safety concerns, monitoring the pressure within the barrel is advisable. While we initially employed a load cell, it limited stroke length. We now either add vents to our molds or measure the appropriate amount of plastic for each shot.", + "text": "In this video, we walk you through how we use our hydraulic injection moulding machine. We designed this machine to assist us in creating larger, thicker and 'trickier' products.\n\nAs safety is a concern, it may be helpful to include something to monitor pressure within the barrel. Initially, we were using a load cell, however as it reduced our stroke length, we are now either adding vents to our moulds or dosing the barrel with the correct amount of plastic for each shot.", "_animationKey": "unique2" }, { @@ -67,10 +67,10 @@ "alt": "V1 splitter.jpg" } ], - "text": "### Machine Upgrade Tips\n\nThis machine may not suit all workshops, but it has proven invaluable for us.\n\nIf you plan to upgrade your machine, consider the following:\n\n- **Monitor Pressure**: We initially used a load cell (see second image), which reduced our stroke length. We now weigh each shot.\n \n- **Orientation Adjustment**: Change the orientation to fit your workshop.\n\n- **Quick Release**: Develop a quick release for a moving barrel.\n\nPlease exercise caution. We do not accept responsibility for any loss or damage. This guide is for educational purposes only." + "text": "This machine may not suit all workshops, however it has certainly been worth it's weight in gold for us!\n\nIf you plan on upgrading your machine, here are a few things to try:\n• Monitor pressure. We used a load cell (see second image) in our first version, however it shortened our stroke length and we are now weighing each shot\n• Change the orientation to suit your workshop.\n• Create a quick release that will work on a moving barrel (and share the How-To!)\n\nFinally, be careful. We do not accept any responsibly for loss or damages - this 'How-To' is intended to be educational not instructional. \n\nFollow us @​​​​​​​​​​​​​​preciousplasticmelbourne and tag us in your upgrade!" } ], - "description": "### How To Upgrade an Injection Mould Machine with a Log Splitter\n\nSeeking increased power or efficiency? We enhanced our injection mould machine by integrating a 5-ton (approximately 4.5 metric tons) log splitter, significantly improving production capabilities. These videos outline our methods, including the process for producing thick parts.\n\n**Caution:** This upgrade involves dangerous hydraulic machinery. Exercise caution.", + "description": "Need a little more power, or just feeling lazy? We've upgraded our PP injection mould machine using a 5T log splitter - this has made a world of difference to our production capabilities. In these videos, we discuss how we did it, as well as our process for creating thick parts.\n\nNote: THIS UPGRADE IS DANGEROUS! Please take care with hydraulic machinery.", "fileLink": "", "cover_image": { "downloadUrl": "https://firebasestorage.googleapis.com/v0/b/onearmyworld.appspot.com/o/uploads%2Fhowtos%2FOClSY1mX9WWqTdNWy0vQ%2FHowToCOVER_InjectionMouldLogSplitter.png?alt=media&token=d7f4fd71-8c8f-4536-b1c7-46544811292d", @@ -301,9 +301,5 @@ "urls": [] } }, - "content": "### How To Upgrade an Injection Mould Machine with a Log Splitter\n\nSeeking increased power or efficiency? We enhanced our injection mould machine by integrating a 5-ton (approximately 4.5 metric tons) log splitter, significantly improving production capabilities. These videos outline our methods, including the process for producing thick parts.\n\n**Caution:** This upgrade involves dangerous hydraulic machinery. Exercise caution.\n\n\nUser Location: Melbourne, Australia\n\nThis guide details the upgrade of the Injection Machine.\n\nRequirements:\n- An injection machine\n- A 5-ton (4.5 metric tons) log splitter\n- Skills in cutting steel, welding, and drilling\n- Hopper (refer to attached .zip file)\n\nDirect link to the log splitter used:\nwww.bunnings.com.au/homelite-2200w-5t-electric-log-splitter_p0044725\n\nIn this video, we demonstrate the use of our hydraulic injection molding machine, which we designed for producing larger and more complex products.\n\nDue to safety concerns, monitoring the pressure within the barrel is advisable. While we initially employed a load cell, it limited stroke length. We now either add vents to our molds or measure the appropriate amount of plastic for each shot.\n\n### Machine Upgrade Tips\n\nThis machine may not suit all workshops, but it has proven invaluable for us.\n\nIf you plan to upgrade your machine, consider the following:\n\n- **Monitor Pressure**: We initially used a load cell (see second image), which reduced our stroke length. We now weigh each shot.\n \n- **Orientation Adjustment**: Change the orientation to fit your workshop.\n\n- **Quick Release**: Develop a quick release for a moving barrel.\n\nPlease exercise caution. We do not accept responsibility for any loss or damage. This guide is for educational purposes only.", - "keywords": "injection mould machine upgrade, log splitter integration, hydraulic machinery safety, Melbourne Australia injection machine, steel cutting welding drilling skills, injection molding process video, large complex product manufacturing, machine pressure monitoring, injection machine quick release, injection moulding educational guide", - "resources": "### Required Hardware\n\n- Injection mould machine\n- ~~[Homelite 2200W 5T Electric Log Splitter](www.bunnings.com.au/homelite-2200w-5t-electric-log-splitter_p0044725)~~ (5-ton capacity)\n- Hydraulic press system\n- Hopper (design files included in attached .zip)\n- Load cell (initially used for pressure monitoring)\n\n### Required Tools\n\n- Welding equipment (steel fabrication)\n- Cutting tools (steel modification)\n- Drilling machinery (component assembly)\n- Quick-release mechanism components (custom fabrication)\n- Weighing scale (for shot measurement)\n\n### Software\n\n- No specific software mentioned (hopper design files may require CAD tools)\n\n***\n\n*Note: The tutorial emphasizes safety precautions and workshop-specific adaptations.*", - "references": "## References\n\n### Articles\n\n- https://formlabs.com/blog/diy-injection-molding/\n- https://www.engelglobal.com/en/us/engel-customer-service/machine-retrofit-injection-molding\n- https://www.topstarmachine.com/what-safety-features-can-you-look-for-in-a-plastic-injection-molding-machine/\n\n### YouTube\n\n- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M28Pbrm7wzE\n- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uR8wmNgJvdU\n\n### Open Source Designs\n\n- https://community.preciousplastic.com/library/log-splitter-injector-upgrade\n- https://community.preciousplastic.com/research/fully-automatic-injection-machine", - "brief": "Enhance your injection mould machine with a 5-ton log splitter for improved production efficiency. Discover our methods and safety tips for powerful upgrades." + "content": "Need a little more power, or just feeling lazy? We've upgraded our PP injection mould machine using a 5T log splitter - this has made a world of difference to our production capabilities. In these videos, we discuss how we did it, as well as our process for creating thick parts.\n\nNote: THIS UPGRADE IS DANGEROUS! Please take care with hydraulic machinery.\n\n\nUser Location: Melbourne, Australia\n\nHere, we're covering the upgrade to the Injection Machine.\n\nYou'll need:\n• A [filtered] injection machine\n• A 5T log splitter\n• Ability to cut steel, weld and drill holes\n• Hopper (see .zip file attached)\n\nBelow is the direct link to the particular log splitter we used:\nwww.bunnings.com.au/homelite-2200w-5t-electric-log-splitter_p0044725\n\nIn this video, we walk you through how we use our hydraulic injection moulding machine. We designed this machine to assist us in creating larger, thicker and 'trickier' products.\n\nAs safety is a concern, it may be helpful to include something to monitor pressure within the barrel. Initially, we were using a load cell, however as it reduced our stroke length, we are now either adding vents to our moulds or dosing the barrel with the correct amount of plastic for each shot.\n\nThis machine may not suit all workshops, however it has certainly been worth it's weight in gold for us!\n\nIf you plan on upgrading your machine, here are a few things to try:\n• Monitor pressure. We used a load cell (see second image) in our first version, however it shortened our stroke length and we are now weighing each shot\n• Change the orientation to suit your workshop.\n• Create a quick release that will work on a moving barrel (and share the How-To!)\n\nFinally, be careful. We do not accept any responsibly for loss or damages - this 'How-To' is intended to be educational not instructional. \n\nFollow us @​​​​​​​​​​​​​​preciousplasticmelbourne and tag us in your upgrade!" } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/low-cost-stool-using-cake-mould/README.md b/howtos/low-cost-stool-using-cake-mould/README.md index f3f418095..67bda1138 100644 --- a/howtos/low-cost-stool-using-cake-mould/README.md +++ b/howtos/low-cost-stool-using-cake-mould/README.md @@ -1,27 +1,28 @@ --- title: Low cost stool using cake mould slug: low-cost-stool-using-cake-mould -description: # How to Prepare a Stool with a Low-Cost Mould +description: In this how to we want to share with you how to prepare a stool with a low cost mould. It is a simple cake tin instead of an engineered mould that works pretty well. -This guide demonstrates how to create a stool using an inexpensive mould. A simple cake tin replaces a more complex mould effectively. tags: ["mould","product","compression","HDPE","PP"] category: Products difficulty: Easy time: < 5 hours -keywords: stool making, low-cost mould, cake tin stool, DIY stool, Berlin plastic recycling, homemade stool mold, polymer stool, PP HDPE stool, metal legs stool, recycled plastic furniture +keywords: location: Berlin, Germany --- # Low cost stool using cake mould ![Low cost stool using cake mould](how-to-stool-with-cake-mould-1831c0db512.png) -# How to Prepare a Stool with a Low-Cost Mould +In this how to we want to share with you how to prepare a stool with a low cost mould. It is a simple cake tin instead of an engineered mould that works pretty well. -This guide demonstrates how to create a stool using an inexpensive mould. A simple cake tin replaces a more complex mould effectively. User Location: Berlin, Germany ## Steps ### Step 1: Sourcing the material -Before starting, decide which plastic to use and how to obtain it. We commonly use PP or HDPE, collected locally in Berlin. If plastic flakes are unavailable, seek alternative sources. +Before starting you need to decide on which plastic to use and how to get it. We usually use PP or HDPE which we collect locally in Berlin at our workspace. If you don´t have access to plastic flakes you can find it in the bazar: + + + ![DSC_4127-18244ffd308.jpg](./DSC_4127-18244ffd308.jpg) @@ -34,10 +35,11 @@ Before starting, decide which plastic to use and how to obtain it. We commonly u ### Step 2: Mould making -Custom engineered molds can be expensive, especially under current conditions. Therefore, we use a simple cake tin as a prototype stool mold, as shown in the picture. It was obtained from a supermarket and functions adequately. +The problem with customised engineered moulds is that they come at a high price especially at the current situation. That is why we use a simple cake tin for the prototype stool mould as you can see in the picture. We simply got it at the supermarket and it works perfectly fine. + +Attention: +Check if the bottom of the cake tin is even or not. It will later on shape the top of your stool. -Attention: -Verify if the bottom of the cake tin is level, as it will shape the top of your stool. ![IMG_2551-1825de3767f.jpg](./IMG_2551-1825de3767f.jpg) @@ -47,7 +49,7 @@ Verify if the bottom of the cake tin is level, as it will shape the top of your ### Step 3: Machine - oven -For our machine, we use an oven modified for compression. Place the mold inside and heat it to 250°C (482°F) for polypropylene. + As a machine we use a small oven, converted to a compression machine. Simply put the mould in. We heat the oven up to 250° for PP. ![IMG_2555-1825de6ecf0.jpg](./IMG_2555-1825de6ecf0.jpg) @@ -60,9 +62,11 @@ For our machine, we use an oven modified for compression. Place the mold inside ### Step 4: Melt the seat -Fill the cake tin with granulated material and place it in the oven. Bake for approximately one hour to ensure thorough melting. Remove from the oven and allow it to cool for another hour. Once cooled, open the tin and remove the seat. +Fill the cake tin with your granulated material to the top and put it into the oven. Keep in the oven for about an hour, otherwise the inside of the seat won´t melt. +Take out of the oven and let cool down for another hour. Once cooled down, open the cake tin and take out your seat. + +Since the top of your seat won´t be even with this technique you will have to equalize it. Therefore, you can use an electric planer. make sure you collect the excess plastic flakes to use later. -To level the top surface of the seat, use an electric planer. Collect excess material for future use. ![IMG_2546_2-1825de972fc.jpg](./IMG_2546_2-1825de972fc.jpg) @@ -75,11 +79,11 @@ To level the top surface of the seat, use an electric planer. Collect excess mat ### Step 5: Fix legs -Initially, we tried wooden legs but found them difficult to secure to the seat. Ultimately, we chose metal legs that can be easily attached beneath the seat. +First we experimented with wooden legs. However, it is hard to fix them properly to the seat. That´s why in the end we decided to use metal legs that we simply screw below the seat. Still looks great! -Purchase the legs at a hardware store or online. They include screws. Evenly distribute the legs at the base of the seat and fasten them with the screws. +For that buy the legs at your local hardwire shop or order online. The legs come with screws. Place the legs equally distributed at the evened bottom of the seat and fix them with the screws. -Once assembled, turn the stool upright and it is ready for use. +Turn around & take a seat - your beautiful new stool is ready! ![IMG_2545_2-1825dec57db.jpg](./IMG_2545_2-1825dec57db.jpg) @@ -91,37 +95,4 @@ Once assembled, turn the stool upright and it is ready for use. ![IMG_2535_2-1825decc56c.jpg](./IMG_2535_2-1825decc56c.jpg) ## Resources -### Tools - -- Electric planer (for leveling the seat surface) -- Screwdriver (for attaching legs) - -### Hardware - -- Modified oven with compression capability (heated to 250°C/482°F) -- Cake tin (reused as a mould, ensure a flat bottom) -- Metal legs with screws (purchased from hardware stores/online) - -### Materials - -- Polypropylene (PP) or HDPE plastic flakes (locally sourced in Berlin) -- Granulated plastic material (for melting in the mould) -- Excess planed material (reused for future projects) -## References -## References - -### Articles - -1. [Tips for Custom Stool Mold - FOW Mould](https://www.immould.com/plastic-injection-stool-mould/) -2. [DIY Injection Molding (Instructables)](https://www.instructables.com/DIY-Injection-Molding/) -3. ~~[How Plastic Stools Are Made (Inochi Global)](https://inochiglobal.com/how-are-plastic-stools-made/)~~ -4. [Thanatos Stool Design Process (Philipp Aduatz)](https://www.philippaduatz.com/portfolio-item/thanatos-stool-design-process/) -5. [Household Plastic Stool Injection Mould (Chinaplas Mould)](https://www.chinaplasmould.com/injection-mold/household-mold/household-plastic-stool-injection-mould.html) - -### Opensource Designs - -15. Low-Cost Stool Using Cake Mould ([filtered] Academy) - -### Youtube - -16. [Steps in Creating Custom Cake Molds](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tDxSbU67MR8) \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/low-cost-stool-using-cake-mould/config.json b/howtos/low-cost-stool-using-cake-mould/config.json index 58d4ebd02..915437b83 100644 --- a/howtos/low-cost-stool-using-cake-mould/config.json +++ b/howtos/low-cost-stool-using-cake-mould/config.json @@ -13,7 +13,7 @@ "name": "how-to-stool-with-cake-mould-1831c0db512.png", "src": "C:\\Users\\zx\\Desktop\\osr\\osr-machines\\howtos\\low-cost-stool-using-cake-mould\\how-to-stool-with-cake-mould-1831c0db512.png" }, - "description": "# How to Prepare a Stool with a Low-Cost Mould\n\nThis guide demonstrates how to create a stool using an inexpensive mould. A simple cake tin replaces a more complex mould effectively.", + "description": "In this how to we want to share with you how to prepare a stool with a low cost mould. It is a simple cake tin instead of an engineered mould that works pretty well.\n", "_deleted": false, "previousSlugs": [ "low-cost-stool-using-cake-mould" @@ -56,7 +56,7 @@ ], "steps": [ { - "text": "Before starting, decide which plastic to use and how to obtain it. We commonly use PP or HDPE, collected locally in Berlin. If plastic flakes are unavailable, seek alternative sources.", + "text": "Before starting you need to decide on which plastic to use and how to get it. We usually use PP or HDPE which we collect locally in Berlin at our workspace. If you don´t have access to plastic flakes you can find it in the bazar: \n\n\n", "title": "Sourcing the material", "_animationKey": "unique1", "images": [ @@ -99,7 +99,7 @@ ] }, { - "text": "Custom engineered molds can be expensive, especially under current conditions. Therefore, we use a simple cake tin as a prototype stool mold, as shown in the picture. It was obtained from a supermarket and functions adequately.\n\nAttention:\nVerify if the bottom of the cake tin is level, as it will shape the top of your stool.", + "text": "The problem with customised engineered moulds is that they come at a high price especially at the current situation. That is why we use a simple cake tin for the prototype stool mould as you can see in the picture. We simply got it at the supermarket and it works perfectly fine. \n\nAttention: \nCheck if the bottom of the cake tin is even or not. It will later on shape the top of your stool.\n", "images": [ { "name": "IMG_2551-1825de3767f.jpg", @@ -170,7 +170,7 @@ "alt": "IMG_2554-1825de736d8.jpg" } ], - "text": "For our machine, we use an oven modified for compression. Place the mold inside and heat it to 250°C (482°F) for polypropylene." + "text": " As a machine we use a small oven, converted to a compression machine. Simply put the mould in. We heat the oven up to 250° for PP. " }, { "images": [ @@ -211,13 +211,13 @@ "alt": "IMG_2548_2-1825de9c8e6.jpg" } ], - "text": "Fill the cake tin with granulated material and place it in the oven. Bake for approximately one hour to ensure thorough melting. Remove from the oven and allow it to cool for another hour. Once cooled, open the tin and remove the seat.\n\nTo level the top surface of the seat, use an electric planer. Collect excess material for future use.", + "text": "Fill the cake tin with your granulated material to the top and put it into the oven. Keep in the oven for about an hour, otherwise the inside of the seat won´t melt. \nTake out of the oven and let cool down for another hour. Once cooled down, open the cake tin and take out your seat. \n\nSince the top of your seat won´t be even with this technique you will have to equalize it. Therefore, you can use an electric planer. make sure you collect the excess plastic flakes to use later.\n", "_animationKey": "unique9njc1r", "title": "Melt the seat" }, { "title": "Fix legs", - "text": "Initially, we tried wooden legs but found them difficult to secure to the seat. Ultimately, we chose metal legs that can be easily attached beneath the seat.\n\nPurchase the legs at a hardware store or online. They include screws. Evenly distribute the legs at the base of the seat and fasten them with the screws.\n\nOnce assembled, turn the stool upright and it is ready for use.", + "text": "First we experimented with wooden legs. However, it is hard to fix them properly to the seat. That´s why in the end we decided to use metal legs that we simply screw below the seat. Still looks great!\n\nFor that buy the legs at your local hardwire shop or order online. The legs come with screws. Place the legs equally distributed at the evened bottom of the seat and fix them with the screws. \n\nTurn around & take a seat - your beautiful new stool is ready!", "images": [ { "updated": "2022-08-02T09:41:17.024Z", @@ -437,9 +437,5 @@ "urls": [] } }, - "content": "# How to Prepare a Stool with a Low-Cost Mould\n\nThis guide demonstrates how to create a stool using an inexpensive mould. A simple cake tin replaces a more complex mould effectively.\n\n\nUser Location: Berlin, Germany\n\nBefore starting, decide which plastic to use and how to obtain it. We commonly use PP or HDPE, collected locally in Berlin. If plastic flakes are unavailable, seek alternative sources.\n\nCustom engineered molds can be expensive, especially under current conditions. Therefore, we use a simple cake tin as a prototype stool mold, as shown in the picture. It was obtained from a supermarket and functions adequately.\n\nAttention:\nVerify if the bottom of the cake tin is level, as it will shape the top of your stool.\n\nFor our machine, we use an oven modified for compression. Place the mold inside and heat it to 250°C (482°F) for polypropylene.\n\nFill the cake tin with granulated material and place it in the oven. Bake for approximately one hour to ensure thorough melting. Remove from the oven and allow it to cool for another hour. Once cooled, open the tin and remove the seat.\n\nTo level the top surface of the seat, use an electric planer. Collect excess material for future use.\n\nInitially, we tried wooden legs but found them difficult to secure to the seat. Ultimately, we chose metal legs that can be easily attached beneath the seat.\n\nPurchase the legs at a hardware store or online. They include screws. Evenly distribute the legs at the base of the seat and fasten them with the screws.\n\nOnce assembled, turn the stool upright and it is ready for use.", - "keywords": "stool making, low-cost mould, cake tin stool, DIY stool, Berlin plastic recycling, homemade stool mold, polymer stool, PP HDPE stool, metal legs stool, recycled plastic furniture", - "resources": "### Tools\n\n- Electric planer (for leveling the seat surface)\n- Screwdriver (for attaching legs)\n\n### Hardware\n\n- Modified oven with compression capability (heated to 250°C/482°F)\n- Cake tin (reused as a mould, ensure a flat bottom)\n- Metal legs with screws (purchased from hardware stores/online)\n\n### Materials\n\n- Polypropylene (PP) or HDPE plastic flakes (locally sourced in Berlin)\n- Granulated plastic material (for melting in the mould)\n- Excess planed material (reused for future projects)", - "references": "## References\n\n### Articles\n\n1. [Tips for Custom Stool Mold - FOW Mould](https://www.immould.com/plastic-injection-stool-mould/)\n2. [DIY Injection Molding (Instructables)](https://www.instructables.com/DIY-Injection-Molding/)\n3. ~~[How Plastic Stools Are Made (Inochi Global)](https://inochiglobal.com/how-are-plastic-stools-made/)~~\n4. [Thanatos Stool Design Process (Philipp Aduatz)](https://www.philippaduatz.com/portfolio-item/thanatos-stool-design-process/)\n5. [Household Plastic Stool Injection Mould (Chinaplas Mould)](https://www.chinaplasmould.com/injection-mold/household-mold/household-plastic-stool-injection-mould.html)\n\n### Opensource Designs\n\n15. Low-Cost Stool Using Cake Mould ([filtered] Academy)\n\n### Youtube\n\n16. [Steps in Creating Custom Cake Molds](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tDxSbU67MR8)", - "brief": "Create a low-cost stool using a cake tin as a mould. Follow this guide for tips on materials, mould preparation, and assembling with metal legs for stability." + "content": "In this how to we want to share with you how to prepare a stool with a low cost mould. It is a simple cake tin instead of an engineered mould that works pretty well.\n\n\n\nUser Location: Berlin, Germany\n\nBefore starting you need to decide on which plastic to use and how to get it. We usually use PP or HDPE which we collect locally in Berlin at our workspace. If you don´t have access to plastic flakes you can find it in the bazar: \n\n\n\n\nThe problem with customised engineered moulds is that they come at a high price especially at the current situation. That is why we use a simple cake tin for the prototype stool mould as you can see in the picture. We simply got it at the supermarket and it works perfectly fine. \n\nAttention: \nCheck if the bottom of the cake tin is even or not. It will later on shape the top of your stool.\n\n\n As a machine we use a small oven, converted to a compression machine. Simply put the mould in. We heat the oven up to 250° for PP. \n\nFill the cake tin with your granulated material to the top and put it into the oven. Keep in the oven for about an hour, otherwise the inside of the seat won´t melt. \nTake out of the oven and let cool down for another hour. Once cooled down, open the cake tin and take out your seat. \n\nSince the top of your seat won´t be even with this technique you will have to equalize it. Therefore, you can use an electric planer. make sure you collect the excess plastic flakes to use later.\n\n\nFirst we experimented with wooden legs. However, it is hard to fix them properly to the seat. That´s why in the end we decided to use metal legs that we simply screw below the seat. Still looks great!\n\nFor that buy the legs at your local hardwire shop or order online. The legs come with screws. Place the legs equally distributed at the evened bottom of the seat and fix them with the screws. \n\nTurn around & take a seat - your beautiful new stool is ready!" } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/low-cost-washing-machine-with-water-filter-system/README.md b/howtos/low-cost-washing-machine-with-water-filter-system/README.md index 3c2ff8449..e3d9458b8 100644 --- a/howtos/low-cost-washing-machine-with-water-filter-system/README.md +++ b/howtos/low-cost-washing-machine-with-water-filter-system/README.md @@ -1,32 +1,36 @@ --- title: Low cost Washing Machine with water filter system slug: low-cost-washing-machine-with-water-filter-system -description: This guide instructs on converting a laundry machine for plastic washing without water waste. It covers modifying the electrical system and adding a water tank with a custom 3D-printed sand filter. +description: Learn how to modify any laundry machine to enable it for plastic washing without wasting any water drop. This guide will show you how to modify the electric system and add a water tank with a custom 3d printed sand filter. + tags: ["untagged","washing"] category: Machines difficulty: Medium time: < 1 week -keywords: laundry machine conversion, plastic washing machine, water-efficient laundry, DIY laundry modifications, 3D-printed sand filter, gravity-based washing, small workspace solution, eco-friendly design, STL files for laundry machine, welding for DIY projects +keywords: location: Malaga, Spain --- # Low cost Washing Machine with water filter system ![Low cost Washing Machine with water filter system](montaje_copy-18890866104.jpg) -This guide instructs on converting a laundry machine for plastic washing without water waste. It covers modifying the electrical system and adding a water tank with a custom 3D-printed sand filter. +Learn how to modify any laundry machine to enable it for plastic washing without wasting any water drop. This guide will show you how to modify the electric system and add a water tank with a custom 3d printed sand filter. + User Location: Malaga, Spain ## Steps ### Step 1: Check the video to see if the solution fits you! -I've developed a straightforward, efficient, and cost-effective laundry machine design based on gravity, allowing water to flow through the system using a 40W pump, commonly found in laundry machines. This design is ideal for small workspaces processing 44-110 lbs (20-50 kg) per day with short washing programs. For higher capacities, consider building multiple machines. +I've been experimenting to achieve the following hack with the idea to build the most simple, universal and cheap laundry machine. The design is based in the gravity force, so the water can run through the system with that force and the small 40W power of the outlet pump (that every laundry machine has). This is the best solution for small workspaces with a flow of 20-50 kg day using short washing programmes, for sure if you manage more than that you can build multiple machines or build the one of the mate -> -**Video:** [Watch here](https://youtube.com/shorts/2LW2zV2ksLE?feature=share) +Video -> youtube.com: youtube.com/shorts/2LW2zV2ksLE?feature=share -**Download Contents:** +***Complete guide available in the main download link*** +Content of the folder: +1- Guide with more information + BOM (everything in one .pdf) +2- STL files for the filter and the support (.stl files) +The folder will be updated when new info/changes are implemented to the guide. -1. Comprehensive guide and Bill of Materials (PDF) -2. STL files for the filter and support +ENJOY!! -The folder will be updated with future changes. ![Marea - Copy of Sin bomba adicional-188ae6e4263.jpg](./Marea_-_Copy_of_Sin_bomba_adicional-188ae6e4263.jpg) @@ -39,11 +43,11 @@ The folder will be updated with future changes. ### Step 2: Dissambly, clean the machine -Ensure the machine is drained of water before beginning. +Make sure before starting the process to pour out the water inside the machine. -1. Remove the top and back panels. -2. Disassemble the water input system and cleaning compartment. -3. Clean the pump and drum. +1º Remove the top and the back plate +2º Take apart the water input system and the cleaning box +3º Clean the pump and the drum ![step1-2-188900377b8.jpg](./step1-2-188900377b8.jpg) @@ -53,17 +57,16 @@ Ensure the machine is drained of water before beginning. ### Step 3: Making holes and assembly of the hack -I'm using a 55-liter (about 14.5-gallon) container from Ikea costing approximately €10 (about $11). Attempts with cheaper containers resulted in breakage. It is crucial to select durable plastic to withstand the pressure from the water and the stress of hole creation. +I'm using a 55L container from Ikea ~10€. I've tried two containers from cheaper shops and both are now broken. You a need a good plastic to support the pressure of the contained water and the stress of making the holes. -For assembly, two 1-inch pipe bushings are required: one for the water inlet and another for the outlet. +For the assembly, we need two pipes bushing of 1", one is for the water inlet and the other water outlet. +1-Hole should be centred with the drum inlet +2-Hole in the container +3-Hole for the water input -1. Center a hole with the drum inlet. -2. Drill a hole in the container. -3. Create a hole for water input. +After the holes are made it is time to play with the wiring, you'll require some welding skills if you want a reliable results. I'm using security connectors and heat shrink covers to avoid water damage or electrocution. -Following the hole creation, proceed with wiring. Welding skills are necessary for reliable results. Use security connectors and heat-shrink covers to prevent water damage or electrocution. - -I installed the contactor on the back wall using a fastening clip. +For the assembly, I've mounted the Contactor in the back wall with a fastening clip. ![holes-18890315113.jpg](./holes-18890315113.jpg) @@ -76,7 +79,10 @@ I installed the contactor on the back wall using a fastening clip. ### Step 4: Make the electric set up -Before assembling, ensure the valve is correctly positioned and functioning properly. Apply Teflon tape to the valve and pipe adapter connections. +Before making the assembly, make sure that the valve is corrected positioned and it's working fine. +Use some teflon for the connections of the valve with the pipe adapter. + + ![step2-3-18890045a98.jpg](./step2-3-18890045a98.jpg) @@ -86,7 +92,12 @@ Before assembling, ensure the valve is correctly positioned and functioning prop ### Step 5: Build and assembly the filter and filter support -Print the necessary files. Insert nets between components. Drill holes for filter support, attach the filter, and connect it to the water system. Ready for testing. Fill the filter with sand until it covers 1/4 of the main body. +Print the required files. +Between components put the nets. +Make required holes for the filter support, attach the filter and connect to the water system! Ready for testing. +Fill the filter with sand until the main body is 1/4 covered. + + ![montaje-filtro-18890256c7e.jpg](./montaje-filtro-18890256c7e.jpg) @@ -99,11 +110,10 @@ Print the necessary files. Insert nets between components. Drill holes for filte ### Step 6: Attach the auxiliar container and test -### Instructions +Fill the main container, make sure you've attached the aux container. Fit an extra manual valve to avoid the water go to the incorrect path. +Test it and fix water leaks! + -1. Fill the main container and ensure the auxiliary container is attached. -2. Install an additional manual valve to prevent misdirection of the water. -3. Test the system and repair any leaks. ![fregona-188903634d6.jpg](./fregona-188903634d6.jpg) @@ -112,42 +122,4 @@ Print the necessary files. Insert nets between components. Drill holes for filte ![PICT0003-188908ce773.jpg](./PICT0003-188908ce773.jpg) ## Resources -### Tools - -- Drill (hole creation in container and filter support) -- Welding equipment (secure electrical connections) -- Pipe bushings (1-inch, for water inlet/outlet) -- Teflon tape (sealing valve and pipe connections) -- Security connectors and heat-shrink covers (waterproof wiring) - -### Hardware - -- 40W pump (standard laundry machine component) -- 55-liter IKEA container (~€10, durable plastic) -- Sand (fills 1/4 of 3D-printed filter) -- Manual valve (prevents water misdirection) -- 1-inch pipes/adapters (water system connections) - -### Software - -- [3D printing software](https://youtube.com/shorts/2LW2zV2ksLE) (custom filter/support STL files) -- PDF reader (comprehensive guide and Bill of Materials) -- STL files (filter and support, provided in download) - -### Safety Components - -- Heat-resistant drum (post-modification testing) -- Reinforced filter nets (prevents clogging) -## References -## References - -### YouTube - -- [Plastic Washing Machine Conversion Video](https://youtube.com/shorts/2LW2zV2ksLE?feature=share) - -### Opensource Designs - -- ~~[Filter and Support STL Files](*No link provided in source text*)~~ -- ~~[Conversion Guide & Bill of Materials (PDF)](*No link provided in source text*)~~ - -*Note: The text mentions downloadable STL files and a PDF guide but does not include direct links. For access, contact the creator or check their provided updates.* \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/low-cost-washing-machine-with-water-filter-system/config.json b/howtos/low-cost-washing-machine-with-water-filter-system/config.json index 8b1694454..ec0872617 100644 --- a/howtos/low-cost-washing-machine-with-water-filter-system/config.json +++ b/howtos/low-cost-washing-machine-with-water-filter-system/config.json @@ -15,7 +15,7 @@ { "_animationKey": "unique1", "title": "Check the video to see if the solution fits you!", - "text": "I've developed a straightforward, efficient, and cost-effective laundry machine design based on gravity, allowing water to flow through the system using a 40W pump, commonly found in laundry machines. This design is ideal for small workspaces processing 44-110 lbs (20-50 kg) per day with short washing programs. For higher capacities, consider building multiple machines.\n\n**Video:** [Watch here](https://youtube.com/shorts/2LW2zV2ksLE?feature=share)\n\n**Download Contents:**\n\n1. Comprehensive guide and Bill of Materials (PDF)\n2. STL files for the filter and support\n\nThe folder will be updated with future changes.", + "text": "I've been experimenting to achieve the following hack with the idea to build the most simple, universal and cheap laundry machine. The design is based in the gravity force, so the water can run through the system with that force and the small 40W power of the outlet pump (that every laundry machine has). This is the best solution for small workspaces with a flow of 20-50 kg day using short washing programmes, for sure if you manage more than that you can build multiple machines or build the one of the mate -> \n\nVideo -> youtube.com: youtube.com/shorts/2LW2zV2ksLE?feature=share\n\n***Complete guide available in the main download link***\nContent of the folder:\n1- Guide with more information + BOM (everything in one .pdf)\n2- STL files for the filter and the support (.stl files)\nThe folder will be updated when new info/changes are implemented to the guide. \n\nENJOY!!\n", "images": [ { "name": "Marea - Copy of Sin bomba adicional-188ae6e4263.jpg", @@ -56,7 +56,7 @@ ] }, { - "text": "Ensure the machine is drained of water before beginning.\n\n1. Remove the top and back panels.\n2. Disassemble the water input system and cleaning compartment.\n3. Clean the pump and drum.", + "text": "Make sure before starting the process to pour out the water inside the machine.\n\n1º Remove the top and the back plate\n2º Take apart the water input system and the cleaning box\n3º Clean the pump and the drum", "_animationKey": "unique2", "images": [ { @@ -87,7 +87,7 @@ "title": "Dissambly, clean the machine" }, { - "text": "I'm using a 55-liter (about 14.5-gallon) container from Ikea costing approximately €10 (about $11). Attempts with cheaper containers resulted in breakage. It is crucial to select durable plastic to withstand the pressure from the water and the stress of hole creation.\n\nFor assembly, two 1-inch pipe bushings are required: one for the water inlet and another for the outlet. \n\n1. Center a hole with the drum inlet.\n2. Drill a hole in the container.\n3. Create a hole for water input.\n\nFollowing the hole creation, proceed with wiring. Welding skills are necessary for reliable results. Use security connectors and heat-shrink covers to prevent water damage or electrocution.\n\nI installed the contactor on the back wall using a fastening clip.", + "text": "I'm using a 55L container from Ikea ~10€. I've tried two containers from cheaper shops and both are now broken. You a need a good plastic to support the pressure of the contained water and the stress of making the holes. \n\nFor the assembly, we need two pipes bushing of 1\", one is for the water inlet and the other water outlet. \n1-Hole should be centred with the drum inlet\n2-Hole in the container\n3-Hole for the water input\n\nAfter the holes are made it is time to play with the wiring, you'll require some welding skills if you want a reliable results. I'm using security connectors and heat shrink covers to avoid water damage or electrocution. \n\nFor the assembly, I've mounted the Contactor in the back wall with a fastening clip. ", "images": [ { "downloadUrl": "https://firebasestorage.googleapis.com/v0/b/onearmyworld.appspot.com/o/uploads%2Fhowtos%2FyKqHV44ZtsmTAEhww7HU%2Fholes-18890315113.jpg?alt=media&token=6151573a-da3d-4cf6-bc83-b5fa280e8705", @@ -157,7 +157,7 @@ } ], "title": "Make the electric set up", - "text": "Before assembling, ensure the valve is correctly positioned and functioning properly. Apply Teflon tape to the valve and pipe adapter connections.", + "text": "Before making the assembly, make sure that the valve is corrected positioned and it's working fine.\nUse some teflon for the connections of the valve with the pipe adapter.\n\n", "_animationKey": "unique0o3us" }, { @@ -201,7 +201,7 @@ ], "title": "Build and assembly the filter and filter support", "_animationKey": "uniquedfpjd", - "text": "Print the necessary files. Insert nets between components. Drill holes for filter support, attach the filter, and connect it to the water system. Ready for testing. Fill the filter with sand until it covers 1/4 of the main body." + "text": "Print the required files.\nBetween components put the nets.\nMake required holes for the filter support, attach the filter and connect to the water system! Ready for testing.\nFill the filter with sand until the main body is 1/4 covered. \n\n" }, { "title": "Attach the auxiliar container and test", @@ -232,7 +232,7 @@ "alt": "PICT0003-188908ce773.jpg" } ], - "text": "### Instructions\n\n1. Fill the main container and ensure the auxiliary container is attached.\n2. Install an additional manual valve to prevent misdirection of the water.\n3. Test the system and repair any leaks." + "text": "Fill the main container, make sure you've attached the aux container. Fit an extra manual valve to avoid the water go to the incorrect path.\nTest it and fix water leaks! \n\n" } ], "difficulty_level": "Medium", @@ -243,7 +243,7 @@ "washing" ], "_id": "yKqHV44ZtsmTAEhww7HU", - "description": "This guide instructs on converting a laundry machine for plastic washing without water waste. It covers modifying the electrical system and adding a water tank with a custom 3D-printed sand filter.", + "description": "Learn how to modify any laundry machine to enable it for plastic washing without wasting any water drop. This guide will show you how to modify the electric system and add a water tank with a custom 3d printed sand filter.\n", "previousSlugs": [ "low-cost-laundry-machine-with-water-filter-system", "low-cost-washing-machine-with-water-filter-system" @@ -420,9 +420,5 @@ "urls": [] } }, - "content": "This guide instructs on converting a laundry machine for plastic washing without water waste. It covers modifying the electrical system and adding a water tank with a custom 3D-printed sand filter.\n\n\nUser Location: Malaga, Spain\n\nI've developed a straightforward, efficient, and cost-effective laundry machine design based on gravity, allowing water to flow through the system using a 40W pump, commonly found in laundry machines. This design is ideal for small workspaces processing 44-110 lbs (20-50 kg) per day with short washing programs. For higher capacities, consider building multiple machines.\n\n**Video:** [Watch here](https://youtube.com/shorts/2LW2zV2ksLE?feature=share)\n\n**Download Contents:**\n\n1. Comprehensive guide and Bill of Materials (PDF)\n2. STL files for the filter and support\n\nThe folder will be updated with future changes.\n\nEnsure the machine is drained of water before beginning.\n\n1. Remove the top and back panels.\n2. Disassemble the water input system and cleaning compartment.\n3. Clean the pump and drum.\n\nI'm using a 55-liter (about 14.5-gallon) container from Ikea costing approximately €10 (about $11). Attempts with cheaper containers resulted in breakage. It is crucial to select durable plastic to withstand the pressure from the water and the stress of hole creation.\n\nFor assembly, two 1-inch pipe bushings are required: one for the water inlet and another for the outlet. \n\n1. Center a hole with the drum inlet.\n2. Drill a hole in the container.\n3. Create a hole for water input.\n\nFollowing the hole creation, proceed with wiring. Welding skills are necessary for reliable results. Use security connectors and heat-shrink covers to prevent water damage or electrocution.\n\nI installed the contactor on the back wall using a fastening clip.\n\nBefore assembling, ensure the valve is correctly positioned and functioning properly. Apply Teflon tape to the valve and pipe adapter connections.\n\nPrint the necessary files. Insert nets between components. Drill holes for filter support, attach the filter, and connect it to the water system. Ready for testing. Fill the filter with sand until it covers 1/4 of the main body.\n\n### Instructions\n\n1. Fill the main container and ensure the auxiliary container is attached.\n2. Install an additional manual valve to prevent misdirection of the water.\n3. Test the system and repair any leaks.", - "keywords": "laundry machine conversion, plastic washing machine, water-efficient laundry, DIY laundry modifications, 3D-printed sand filter, gravity-based washing, small workspace solution, eco-friendly design, STL files for laundry machine, welding for DIY projects", - "resources": "### Tools\n\n- Drill (hole creation in container and filter support)\n- Welding equipment (secure electrical connections)\n- Pipe bushings (1-inch, for water inlet/outlet)\n- Teflon tape (sealing valve and pipe connections)\n- Security connectors and heat-shrink covers (waterproof wiring)\n\n### Hardware\n\n- 40W pump (standard laundry machine component)\n- 55-liter IKEA container (~€10, durable plastic)\n- Sand (fills 1/4 of 3D-printed filter)\n- Manual valve (prevents water misdirection)\n- 1-inch pipes/adapters (water system connections)\n\n### Software\n\n- [3D printing software](https://youtube.com/shorts/2LW2zV2ksLE) (custom filter/support STL files)\n- PDF reader (comprehensive guide and Bill of Materials)\n- STL files (filter and support, provided in download)\n\n### Safety Components\n\n- Heat-resistant drum (post-modification testing)\n- Reinforced filter nets (prevents clogging)", - "references": "## References\n\n### YouTube\n\n- [Plastic Washing Machine Conversion Video](https://youtube.com/shorts/2LW2zV2ksLE?feature=share)\n\n### Opensource Designs\n\n- ~~[Filter and Support STL Files](*No link provided in source text*)~~\n- ~~[Conversion Guide & Bill of Materials (PDF)](*No link provided in source text*)~~\n\n*Note: The text mentions downloadable STL files and a PDF guide but does not include direct links. For access, contact the creator or check their provided updates.*", - "brief": "Convert your laundry machine for plastic washing efficiently. This guide covers electrical modifications and adding a water tank with a custom 3D sand filter." + "content": "Learn how to modify any laundry machine to enable it for plastic washing without wasting any water drop. This guide will show you how to modify the electric system and add a water tank with a custom 3d printed sand filter.\n\n\n\nUser Location: Malaga, Spain\n\nI've been experimenting to achieve the following hack with the idea to build the most simple, universal and cheap laundry machine. The design is based in the gravity force, so the water can run through the system with that force and the small 40W power of the outlet pump (that every laundry machine has). This is the best solution for small workspaces with a flow of 20-50 kg day using short washing programmes, for sure if you manage more than that you can build multiple machines or build the one of the mate -> \n\nVideo -> youtube.com: youtube.com/shorts/2LW2zV2ksLE?feature=share\n\n***Complete guide available in the main download link***\nContent of the folder:\n1- Guide with more information + BOM (everything in one .pdf)\n2- STL files for the filter and the support (.stl files)\nThe folder will be updated when new info/changes are implemented to the guide. \n\nENJOY!!\n\n\nMake sure before starting the process to pour out the water inside the machine.\n\n1º Remove the top and the back plate\n2º Take apart the water input system and the cleaning box\n3º Clean the pump and the drum\n\nI'm using a 55L container from Ikea ~10€. I've tried two containers from cheaper shops and both are now broken. You a need a good plastic to support the pressure of the contained water and the stress of making the holes. \n\nFor the assembly, we need two pipes bushing of 1\", one is for the water inlet and the other water outlet. \n1-Hole should be centred with the drum inlet\n2-Hole in the container\n3-Hole for the water input\n\nAfter the holes are made it is time to play with the wiring, you'll require some welding skills if you want a reliable results. I'm using security connectors and heat shrink covers to avoid water damage or electrocution. \n\nFor the assembly, I've mounted the Contactor in the back wall with a fastening clip. \n\nBefore making the assembly, make sure that the valve is corrected positioned and it's working fine.\nUse some teflon for the connections of the valve with the pipe adapter.\n\n\n\nPrint the required files.\nBetween components put the nets.\nMake required holes for the filter support, attach the filter and connect to the water system! Ready for testing.\nFill the filter with sand until the main body is 1/4 covered. \n\n\n\nFill the main container, make sure you've attached the aux container. Fit an extra manual valve to avoid the water go to the incorrect path.\nTest it and fix water leaks! \n\n" } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/make-a-bowl-with-kitchen-molds/README.md b/howtos/make-a-bowl-with-kitchen-molds/README.md index 3f048f6c2..091fbe5e1 100644 --- a/howtos/make-a-bowl-with-kitchen-molds/README.md +++ b/howtos/make-a-bowl-with-kitchen-molds/README.md @@ -1,34 +1,34 @@ --- title: Make a bowl with kitchen molds slug: make-a-bowl-with-kitchen-molds -description: Create a bowl by pressing melted plastic into kitchen molds to form items such as vases, fruit bowls, or organizers. +description: Making a bowl just squeezing the melted plastic in kitchen molds to get objects like vase, fruit bowl or organizer. tags: ["PP"] category: Guides difficulty: Easy time: < 1 hour -keywords: melted plastic bowl, DIY plastic bowl, plastic bowl instructions, craft with plastic, homemade fruit bowl, plastic kitchenware making, recycled plastic crafts, DIY vase from plastic, sustainable kitchen projects, plastic molding process +keywords: location: Sao Paulo, Brazil --- # Make a bowl with kitchen molds ![Make a bowl with kitchen molds](WhatsApp_Image_2023-09-24_at_20.51.11-18ac965a649.jpeg) -Create a bowl by pressing melted plastic into kitchen molds to form items such as vases, fruit bowls, or organizers. +Making a bowl just squeezing the melted plastic in kitchen molds to get objects like vase, fruit bowl or organizer. User Location: Sao Paulo, Brazil ## Steps ### Step 1: Preparation -Gather the following materials to begin: +Get your stuff together to start: -- 2 stainless steel bowls (same size or one smaller than the other) -- Pair of gloves -- Scale -- Oven at 374°F (190°C) -- Plastic PP5 -- Bucket with water +2 stainless steel bowls (same size or 1 smaller than other) +pair of gloves +scale +oven in 190ºC +plastic PP5 +backet with water -1. Weigh the plastic to about half the height of the larger bowl, then set aside. -2. Add 3.5 oz (100 g) of plastic to the larger bowl and place in the oven at 374°F (190°C). -3. Wait for the plastic to melt, approximately 5 minutes. +1.weigh the plastic more or less the half height of the bigger bowl (it's different from size to size) and reserve; +2.add 100g into the bigger bowl and put in the oven at 190°C; +3.wait to melt at the bright point (+-5 minutes) ![cumbuca10-18ab4a4b715.jpg](./cumbuca10-18ab4a4b715.jpg) @@ -41,9 +41,9 @@ Gather the following materials to begin: ### Step 2: Layering -To prevent burning the plastic, add layers by incrementally adding 0.22 lbs (100 g) to your mold. +The secret not to burn the plastic is add layers, so discover how many is needed in your mold adding 100g at a time; -Once the required amount is used, place the additional bowl on top and return to the oven for the final 5 to 10 minutes. +When you finish the amounted plastic reserved, put the other bowl on top and take to the oven for the last 5/10 minutes. ![cumbuca7-18ab4b2faea.jpg](./cumbuca7-18ab4b2faea.jpg) @@ -56,15 +56,13 @@ Once the required amount is used, place the additional bowl on top and return to ### Step 3: Press and cool -### Instructions for Making a Plastic Bowl +After add all the layers and take out the oven, you must have a nice melted plastic to smash; -1. **Melt the Plastic:** After melting the plastic in the oven, remove it carefully. +Take the kit bowls and press each other to squeeze the plastic to fill the space between the bowls; -2. **Press the Plastic:** Use the kit bowls by pressing them together to ensure the plastic fills the space evenly. +Equalize the balance to make an even bowl and put it straight into the bucket with water; -3. **Balance and Cool:** Balance the bowls to create an even shape, then place them directly into a bucket of water. - -4. **Cooling and Finishing:** Allow the plastic bowl to cool for 5 minutes. Remove the mold and finish as necessary. Your bowl is now complete. +Wait 5 minutes to demold the plastic bowl, make some finish if needed and it is ready to go! ![cumbuca8-18ab4bee8f4.jpg](./cumbuca8-18ab4bee8f4.jpg) @@ -77,9 +75,11 @@ Once the required amount is used, place the additional bowl on top and return to ### Step 4: Use it -Enjoy your piece however you like. +Enjoy your 100% recycled piece as you like it! -You can use it as a fruit bowl, plant pot, or organizer. +Some ideas are use it as a fruit bowl, plant pot or as an organizer. + +=) ![vaso-18ac95c56be.jpeg](./vaso-18ac95c56be.jpeg) @@ -91,53 +91,4 @@ You can use it as a fruit bowl, plant pot, or organizer. ![WhatsApp Image 2023-09-11 at 16.14.13-18ac95cb992.jpeg](./WhatsApp_Image_2023-09-11_at_16.14.13-18ac95cb992.jpeg) ## Resources -### Tools - -- 2 stainless steel bowls (same size, or one smaller) -- Bucket with water -- Kitchen molds - -### Hardware - -- Oven (supports 190°C / 374°F) - -### Materials - -- Plastic PP5 pellets or scraps - -### Safety Gear - -- Heat-resistant gloves -## References -Here are the references grouped by category without comments: - -## Articles - -- -- -- -- - -## Books - -- - -## Papers - -- -- -- - -## YouTube - -- -- - -## Opensource Designs - -- https://community.preciousplastic.com/library/make-a-bowl-with-kitchen-molds -- - -## Patents - -- \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/make-a-bowl-with-kitchen-molds/config.json b/howtos/make-a-bowl-with-kitchen-molds/config.json index 9d557866e..9b6b15d27 100644 --- a/howtos/make-a-bowl-with-kitchen-molds/config.json +++ b/howtos/make-a-bowl-with-kitchen-molds/config.json @@ -40,13 +40,13 @@ } ], "_animationKey": "unique1", - "text": "Gather the following materials to begin:\n\n- 2 stainless steel bowls (same size or one smaller than the other)\n- Pair of gloves\n- Scale\n- Oven at 374°F (190°C)\n- Plastic PP5\n- Bucket with water\n\n1. Weigh the plastic to about half the height of the larger bowl, then set aside.\n2. Add 3.5 oz (100 g) of plastic to the larger bowl and place in the oven at 374°F (190°C).\n3. Wait for the plastic to melt, approximately 5 minutes.", + "text": "Get your stuff together to start:\n\n2 stainless steel bowls (same size or 1 smaller than other)\npair of gloves\nscale\noven in 190ºC\nplastic PP5\nbacket with water\n\n1.weigh the plastic more or less the half height of the bigger bowl (it's different from size to size) and reserve;\n2.add 100g into the bigger bowl and put in the oven at 190°C;\n3.wait to melt at the bright point (+-5 minutes)", "title": "Preparation" }, { "_animationKey": "unique2", "title": "Layering", - "text": "To prevent burning the plastic, add layers by incrementally adding 0.22 lbs (100 g) to your mold. \n\nOnce the required amount is used, place the additional bowl on top and return to the oven for the final 5 to 10 minutes.", + "text": "The secret not to burn the plastic is add layers, so discover how many is needed in your mold adding 100g at a time;\n\nWhen you finish the amounted plastic reserved, put the other bowl on top and take to the oven for the last 5/10 minutes.", "images": [ { "timeCreated": "2023-09-20T22:40:15.888Z", @@ -127,12 +127,12 @@ "alt": "cumbuca13-18ab4bf24c4.jpg" } ], - "text": "### Instructions for Making a Plastic Bowl\n\n1. **Melt the Plastic:** After melting the plastic in the oven, remove it carefully.\n\n2. **Press the Plastic:** Use the kit bowls by pressing them together to ensure the plastic fills the space evenly.\n\n3. **Balance and Cool:** Balance the bowls to create an even shape, then place them directly into a bucket of water.\n\n4. **Cooling and Finishing:** Allow the plastic bowl to cool for 5 minutes. Remove the mold and finish as necessary. Your bowl is now complete." + "text": "After add all the layers and take out the oven, you must have a nice melted plastic to smash;\n\nTake the kit bowls and press each other to squeeze the plastic to fill the space between the bowls;\n\nEqualize the balance to make an even bowl and put it straight into the bucket with water;\n\nWait 5 minutes to demold the plastic bowl, make some finish if needed and it is ready to go!" }, { "title": "Use it", "_animationKey": "uniquebpm2wk", - "text": "Enjoy your piece however you like. \n\nYou can use it as a fruit bowl, plant pot, or organizer.", + "text": "Enjoy your 100% recycled piece as you like it!\n\nSome ideas are use it as a fruit bowl, plant pot or as an organizer.\n\n=)", "images": [ { "timeCreated": "2023-09-24T22:46:30.748Z", @@ -207,7 +207,7 @@ "files": [], "comments": [], "creatorCountry": "br", - "description": "Create a bowl by pressing melted plastic into kitchen molds to form items such as vases, fruit bowls, or organizers.", + "description": "Making a bowl just squeezing the melted plastic in kitchen molds to get objects like vase, fruit bowl or organizer.", "mentions": [], "fileLink": "", "total_downloads": 0, @@ -378,9 +378,5 @@ "urls": [] } }, - "content": "Create a bowl by pressing melted plastic into kitchen molds to form items such as vases, fruit bowls, or organizers.\n\n\nUser Location: Sao Paulo, Brazil\n\nGather the following materials to begin:\n\n- 2 stainless steel bowls (same size or one smaller than the other)\n- Pair of gloves\n- Scale\n- Oven at 374°F (190°C)\n- Plastic PP5\n- Bucket with water\n\n1. Weigh the plastic to about half the height of the larger bowl, then set aside.\n2. Add 3.5 oz (100 g) of plastic to the larger bowl and place in the oven at 374°F (190°C).\n3. Wait for the plastic to melt, approximately 5 minutes.\n\nTo prevent burning the plastic, add layers by incrementally adding 0.22 lbs (100 g) to your mold. \n\nOnce the required amount is used, place the additional bowl on top and return to the oven for the final 5 to 10 minutes.\n\n### Instructions for Making a Plastic Bowl\n\n1. **Melt the Plastic:** After melting the plastic in the oven, remove it carefully.\n\n2. **Press the Plastic:** Use the kit bowls by pressing them together to ensure the plastic fills the space evenly.\n\n3. **Balance and Cool:** Balance the bowls to create an even shape, then place them directly into a bucket of water.\n\n4. **Cooling and Finishing:** Allow the plastic bowl to cool for 5 minutes. Remove the mold and finish as necessary. Your bowl is now complete.\n\nEnjoy your piece however you like. \n\nYou can use it as a fruit bowl, plant pot, or organizer.", - "keywords": "melted plastic bowl, DIY plastic bowl, plastic bowl instructions, craft with plastic, homemade fruit bowl, plastic kitchenware making, recycled plastic crafts, DIY vase from plastic, sustainable kitchen projects, plastic molding process", - "resources": "### Tools\n\n- 2 stainless steel bowls (same size, or one smaller)\n- Bucket with water\n- Kitchen molds\n\n### Hardware\n\n- Oven (supports 190°C / 374°F)\n\n### Materials\n\n- Plastic PP5 pellets or scraps\n\n### Safety Gear\n\n- Heat-resistant gloves", - "references": "Here are the references grouped by category without comments:\n\n## Articles\n\n- \n- \n- \n- \n\n## Books\n\n- \n\n## Papers\n\n- \n- \n- \n\n## YouTube\n\n- \n- \n\n## Opensource Designs\n\n- https://community.preciousplastic.com/library/make-a-bowl-with-kitchen-molds\n- \n\n## Patents\n\n- ", - "brief": "Create customized plastic bowls by melting and molding PP5 plastic using kitchen molds. Perfect for crafting unique vases, fruit bowls, or organizers." + "content": "Making a bowl just squeezing the melted plastic in kitchen molds to get objects like vase, fruit bowl or organizer.\n\n\nUser Location: Sao Paulo, Brazil\n\nGet your stuff together to start:\n\n2 stainless steel bowls (same size or 1 smaller than other)\npair of gloves\nscale\noven in 190ºC\nplastic PP5\nbacket with water\n\n1.weigh the plastic more or less the half height of the bigger bowl (it's different from size to size) and reserve;\n2.add 100g into the bigger bowl and put in the oven at 190°C;\n3.wait to melt at the bright point (+-5 minutes)\n\nThe secret not to burn the plastic is add layers, so discover how many is needed in your mold adding 100g at a time;\n\nWhen you finish the amounted plastic reserved, put the other bowl on top and take to the oven for the last 5/10 minutes.\n\nAfter add all the layers and take out the oven, you must have a nice melted plastic to smash;\n\nTake the kit bowls and press each other to squeeze the plastic to fill the space between the bowls;\n\nEqualize the balance to make an even bowl and put it straight into the bucket with water;\n\nWait 5 minutes to demold the plastic bowl, make some finish if needed and it is ready to go!\n\nEnjoy your 100% recycled piece as you like it!\n\nSome ideas are use it as a fruit bowl, plant pot or as an organizer.\n\n=)" } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/make-a-camicleta/README.md b/howtos/make-a-camicleta/README.md index 91eb4a4e7..b7ef9c0f1 100644 --- a/howtos/make-a-camicleta/README.md +++ b/howtos/make-a-camicleta/README.md @@ -1,47 +1,49 @@ --- title: Make a "camicleta" slug: make-a-camicleta -description: The Camicleta is a pedal-free learning bike recommended for children aged 18 months to 5 years. +description: The Camicleta is a learning bike that does not have pedals, recommended for children between 18 months and 5 years old. Materials: -- 2 sheets, 13.8 x 13.8 in (35 x 35 cm), thickness 0.4 in (10 mm). -- 2 wheels, 12 in. +- 2 sheets of 35 x 35 cm, thickness 10mm. +- 2 12-inch wheels. - Screws - Bolts -- Nuts +- Nuts. - Washers -- Wooden stick for handlebars, diameter 0.87 in (22 mm), length 13.8 in (35 cm) +- Wooden stick for the handlebars. Diameter 22mm. Length 35cm -Included: +In this folder you will find: CNC cut files (.dxf) tags: [] category: uncategorized difficulty: Medium time: < 5 hours -keywords: Camicleta, pedal-free learning bike, children's bike, CNC cut files, DIY bike project, wooden balance bike, kids balance bike, Necochea Argentina, assemble bike, CNC router project +keywords: location: Necochea, Argentina --- # Make a "camicleta" ![Make a "camicleta"](1614716556562-18a08c51db1.jpg) -The Camicleta is a pedal-free learning bike recommended for children aged 18 months to 5 years. +The Camicleta is a learning bike that does not have pedals, recommended for children between 18 months and 5 years old. Materials: -- 2 sheets, 13.8 x 13.8 in (35 x 35 cm), thickness 0.4 in (10 mm). -- 2 wheels, 12 in. +- 2 sheets of 35 x 35 cm, thickness 10mm. +- 2 12-inch wheels. - Screws - Bolts -- Nuts +- Nuts. - Washers -- Wooden stick for handlebars, diameter 0.87 in (22 mm), length 13.8 in (35 cm) +- Wooden stick for the handlebars. Diameter 22mm. Length 35cm -Included: +In this folder you will find: CNC cut files (.dxf) User Location: Necochea, Argentina ## Steps ### Step 1: Cut the sheets -Using a CNC router, cut and create recesses in the two sheets as specified in the attached file. For a smoother finish, round the edges of the pieces. +Take the 2 sheets, and with a CNC CNC Router make the cuts and recesses shown in the attached file. +For a better finish, round the edges of the pieces. + ![1-18a08d34547.jpg](./1-18a08d34547.jpg) @@ -51,35 +53,43 @@ Using a CNC router, cut and create recesses in the two sheets as specified in th ### Step 2: Do the folding -Take pieces 1A and 1B and fold them using a heat gun at a 25° angle, ensuring they are mirror images of each other, as illustrated. +Take pieces 1A and 1B and fold (with a heat gun) at 25°, mirroring one piece to the other. +As shown in the picture. + ![2-18a08d4396c.jpg](./2-18a08d4396c.jpg) ### Step 3: Threaded inserts -Use a heat gun to place the threaded inserts into parts 2A and 2B, as illustrated in the image. +Take part 2A and 2B and place the threaded inserts with the help of the heat gun. +As shown in the picture. + ![3-18a08d53f67.jpg](./3-18a08d53f67.jpg) ### Step 4: Seat assembly -Begin assembling the seat by fitting piece 4 with pieces 5A and 5B. Attach piece 3 to the seat at an angle of approximately 80 degrees (1.4 rad) and secure it with screws. +We proceed to assemble the seat, taking the piece 4 and fitting in it the pieces 5A and 5B. Take piece 3 and assemble it with the seat at an angle of approximately 80°. Fix with screws. + ![4-18a08d738e5.jpg](./4-18a08d738e5.jpg) ### Step 5: Fork assembly -Assemble the fork by connecting piece 7A (6B) to piece 7B (6B) and secure with screws. +We proceed to assemble the fork from pieces 7A and 7B, fitting them with pieces 6A and 6B. Fix with screws. ![6-18a08d94d51.jpg](./6-18a08d94d51.jpg) ### Step 6: More assembly -Proceed by assembling parts 2A and 2B to form the Camicleta's frame. Secure with the appropriate bolts, washers, and nuts. Adjust the seat height before fastening the sides. +Now, we will proceed to assemble all these parts, we will take the pieces 2A and 2B that we will join to form the frame of the Camicleta. +Place the corresponding bolts, washers and nuts. +Adjust the seat height according to preference, before adjusting the side. + ![5-18a08db6ffc.jpg](./5-18a08db6ffc.jpg) @@ -89,7 +99,9 @@ Proceed by assembling parts 2A and 2B to form the Camicleta's frame. Secure with ### Step 7: Final steps! -Attach the assembled fork to the frame using an axle and make necessary adjustments. Insert the handlebar into the designated openings. Finally, install the wheels along with their axles. +Connect the assembled fork to the frame via an axle and adjust. +Fit the handlebar through the holes. +Finally, fit the wheels with their respective axles. ![7-18a08dc60eb.jpg](./7-18a08dc60eb.jpg) @@ -101,51 +113,4 @@ Attach the assembled fork to the frame using an axle and make necessary adjustme ![9-18a08df85a0.jpg](./9-18a08df85a0.jpg) ## Resources -### Tools - -- CNC CNC Router -- Heat gun -- Screwdriver set -- Adjustable wrench -- Sandpaper/file for edge finishing - -### Software - -- CNC machining software ([Autodesk Fusion 360](https://www.autodesk.com), [VCarve](https://www.vectric.com), [Carbide Create](https://carbide3d.com)) -- DXF file viewer/editor ([LibreCAD](https://librecad.org)) - -### Hardware - -- 2× MDF sheets (13.8×13.8” / 35×35cm, 10mm thickness) -- 12-inch wheels with axles -- Assorted fasteners (screws, bolts, nuts, washers) -- Wooden handlebar stick (0.87”×13.8” / 22mm×35cm) -- Threaded inserts -## References -## CNC/DXF Resources - -- [Free DXF Files and CNC Patterns](https://www.cnccookbook.com/free-dxf-files/) -- [Laser Cut Bicycles Templates](https://3axis.co/laser-cut/bicycles/) -- [Free DXF Files for CNC](https://aribabox.com/collections/free-dxf-files) - -## Open Source Designs - -- [Open Source Bike Computer](https://hackaday.com/2023/01/06/developing-an-open-source-bike-computer/) -- [Open Source Ebike](https://hackaday.com/2020/02/23/an-open-source-ebike/) - -## CNC Machines - -- [Makera Desktop CNC Machine](https://www.makera.com) - -## YouTube Tutorials - -- [Making CNC Clamps](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bpJyqLoqV04) - -## Product Pages - -- [Box Italy Bikes Camicleta](https://latinafy.com/products/box-italy-bikes-camicleta-for-kids-with-adjustable-seat/) -- [Schwinn Elm Balance Bike](https://www.schwinnbikes.com/products/elm-12-balance-kids-bike) - -## Articles - -- [Balance Bike Guide](https://www.twowheelingtots.com/10-best-balance-bikes/) \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/make-a-camicleta/config.json b/howtos/make-a-camicleta/config.json index 45fafcfe5..567342982 100644 --- a/howtos/make-a-camicleta/config.json +++ b/howtos/make-a-camicleta/config.json @@ -30,10 +30,10 @@ } ], "_animationKey": "unique1", - "text": "Using a CNC router, cut and create recesses in the two sheets as specified in the attached file. For a smoother finish, round the edges of the pieces." + "text": "Take the 2 sheets, and with a CNC CNC Router make the cuts and recesses shown in the attached file. \nFor a better finish, round the edges of the pieces. \n" }, { - "text": "Take pieces 1A and 1B and fold them using a heat gun at a 25° angle, ensuring they are mirror images of each other, as illustrated.", + "text": "Take pieces 1A and 1B and fold (with a heat gun) at 25°, mirroring one piece to the other.\nAs shown in the picture.\n", "_animationKey": "unique2", "title": "Do the folding", "images": [ @@ -67,11 +67,11 @@ } ], "title": "Threaded inserts", - "text": "Use a heat gun to place the threaded inserts into parts 2A and 2B, as illustrated in the image.", + "text": "Take part 2A and 2B and place the threaded inserts with the help of the heat gun. \nAs shown in the picture.\n", "_animationKey": "unique3" }, { - "text": "Begin assembling the seat by fitting piece 4 with pieces 5A and 5B. Attach piece 3 to the seat at an angle of approximately 80 degrees (1.4 rad) and secure it with screws.", + "text": "We proceed to assemble the seat, taking the piece 4 and fitting in it the pieces 5A and 5B. Take piece 3 and assemble it with the seat at an angle of approximately 80°. Fix with screws. \n", "images": [ { "name": "4-18a08d738e5.jpg", @@ -91,7 +91,7 @@ }, { "title": "Fork assembly", - "text": "Assemble the fork by connecting piece 7A (6B) to piece 7B (6B) and secure with screws.", + "text": "We proceed to assemble the fork from pieces 7A and 7B, fitting them with pieces 6A and 6B. Fix with screws. ", "images": [ { "fullPath": "uploads/howtos/bg6KtnjMRIfTNcQFE204/6-18a08d94d51.jpg", @@ -110,7 +110,7 @@ }, { "title": "More assembly", - "text": "Proceed by assembling parts 2A and 2B to form the Camicleta's frame. Secure with the appropriate bolts, washers, and nuts. Adjust the seat height before fastening the sides.", + "text": "Now, we will proceed to assemble all these parts, we will take the pieces 2A and 2B that we will join to form the frame of the Camicleta. \nPlace the corresponding bolts, washers and nuts. \nAdjust the seat height according to preference, before adjusting the side. \n", "_animationKey": "uniquejxyv8ul", "images": [ { @@ -142,7 +142,7 @@ { "_animationKey": "uniquezg7f3l", "title": "Final steps!", - "text": "Attach the assembled fork to the frame using an axle and make necessary adjustments. Insert the handlebar into the designated openings. Finally, install the wheels along with their axles.", + "text": "Connect the assembled fork to the frame via an axle and adjust. \nFit the handlebar through the holes. \nFinally, fit the wheels with their respective axles.", "images": [ { "size": 99221, @@ -189,7 +189,7 @@ "total_views": 194, "title": "Make a \"camicleta\"", "creatorCountry": "ar", - "description": "The Camicleta is a pedal-free learning bike recommended for children aged 18 months to 5 years.\n\nMaterials: \n- 2 sheets, 13.8 x 13.8 in (35 x 35 cm), thickness 0.4 in (10 mm).\n- 2 wheels, 12 in.\n- Screws\n- Bolts\n- Nuts \n- Washers\n- Wooden stick for handlebars, diameter 0.87 in (22 mm), length 13.8 in (35 cm) \n\nIncluded: \nCNC cut files (.dxf)", + "description": "The Camicleta is a learning bike that does not have pedals, recommended for children between 18 months and 5 years old.\n\nMaterials: \n- 2 sheets of 35 x 35 cm, thickness 10mm.\n- 2 12-inch wheels.\n- Screws\n- Bolts\n- Nuts. \n- Washers\n- Wooden stick for the handlebars. Diameter 22mm. Length 35cm\n\nIn this folder you will find:\nCNC cut files (.dxf)", "_id": "bg6KtnjMRIfTNcQFE204", "comments": [], "cover_image": { @@ -345,9 +345,5 @@ "category": { "label": "uncategorized" }, - "content": "The Camicleta is a pedal-free learning bike recommended for children aged 18 months to 5 years.\n\nMaterials: \n- 2 sheets, 13.8 x 13.8 in (35 x 35 cm), thickness 0.4 in (10 mm).\n- 2 wheels, 12 in.\n- Screws\n- Bolts\n- Nuts \n- Washers\n- Wooden stick for handlebars, diameter 0.87 in (22 mm), length 13.8 in (35 cm) \n\nIncluded: \nCNC cut files (.dxf)\n\n\nUser Location: Necochea, Argentina\n\nUsing a CNC router, cut and create recesses in the two sheets as specified in the attached file. For a smoother finish, round the edges of the pieces.\n\nTake pieces 1A and 1B and fold them using a heat gun at a 25° angle, ensuring they are mirror images of each other, as illustrated.\n\nUse a heat gun to place the threaded inserts into parts 2A and 2B, as illustrated in the image.\n\nBegin assembling the seat by fitting piece 4 with pieces 5A and 5B. Attach piece 3 to the seat at an angle of approximately 80 degrees (1.4 rad) and secure it with screws.\n\nAssemble the fork by connecting piece 7A (6B) to piece 7B (6B) and secure with screws.\n\nProceed by assembling parts 2A and 2B to form the Camicleta's frame. Secure with the appropriate bolts, washers, and nuts. Adjust the seat height before fastening the sides.\n\nAttach the assembled fork to the frame using an axle and make necessary adjustments. Insert the handlebar into the designated openings. Finally, install the wheels along with their axles.", - "keywords": "Camicleta, pedal-free learning bike, children's bike, CNC cut files, DIY bike project, wooden balance bike, kids balance bike, Necochea Argentina, assemble bike, CNC router project", - "resources": "### Tools\n\n- CNC CNC Router\n- Heat gun\n- Screwdriver set\n- Adjustable wrench\n- Sandpaper/file for edge finishing\n\n### Software\n\n- CNC machining software ([Autodesk Fusion 360](https://www.autodesk.com), [VCarve](https://www.vectric.com), [Carbide Create](https://carbide3d.com))\n- DXF file viewer/editor ([LibreCAD](https://librecad.org))\n\n### Hardware\n\n- 2× MDF sheets (13.8×13.8” / 35×35cm, 10mm thickness)\n- 12-inch wheels with axles\n- Assorted fasteners (screws, bolts, nuts, washers)\n- Wooden handlebar stick (0.87”×13.8” / 22mm×35cm)\n- Threaded inserts", - "references": "## CNC/DXF Resources\n\n- [Free DXF Files and CNC Patterns](https://www.cnccookbook.com/free-dxf-files/)\n- [Laser Cut Bicycles Templates](https://3axis.co/laser-cut/bicycles/)\n- [Free DXF Files for CNC](https://aribabox.com/collections/free-dxf-files)\n\n## Open Source Designs\n\n- [Open Source Bike Computer](https://hackaday.com/2023/01/06/developing-an-open-source-bike-computer/)\n- [Open Source Ebike](https://hackaday.com/2020/02/23/an-open-source-ebike/)\n\n## CNC Machines\n\n- [Makera Desktop CNC Machine](https://www.makera.com)\n\n## YouTube Tutorials\n\n- [Making CNC Clamps](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bpJyqLoqV04)\n\n## Product Pages\n\n- [Box Italy Bikes Camicleta](https://latinafy.com/products/box-italy-bikes-camicleta-for-kids-with-adjustable-seat/)\n- [Schwinn Elm Balance Bike](https://www.schwinnbikes.com/products/elm-12-balance-kids-bike)\n\n## Articles\n\n- [Balance Bike Guide](https://www.twowheelingtots.com/10-best-balance-bikes/)", - "brief": "Camicleta is a pedal-free balance bike for children 18 months to 5 years, ideal for learning to ride. Easy assembly with CNC cut files included." + "content": "The Camicleta is a learning bike that does not have pedals, recommended for children between 18 months and 5 years old.\n\nMaterials: \n- 2 sheets of 35 x 35 cm, thickness 10mm.\n- 2 12-inch wheels.\n- Screws\n- Bolts\n- Nuts. \n- Washers\n- Wooden stick for the handlebars. Diameter 22mm. Length 35cm\n\nIn this folder you will find:\nCNC cut files (.dxf)\n\n\nUser Location: Necochea, Argentina\n\nTake the 2 sheets, and with a CNC CNC Router make the cuts and recesses shown in the attached file. \nFor a better finish, round the edges of the pieces. \n\n\nTake pieces 1A and 1B and fold (with a heat gun) at 25°, mirroring one piece to the other.\nAs shown in the picture.\n\n\nTake part 2A and 2B and place the threaded inserts with the help of the heat gun. \nAs shown in the picture.\n\n\nWe proceed to assemble the seat, taking the piece 4 and fitting in it the pieces 5A and 5B. Take piece 3 and assemble it with the seat at an angle of approximately 80°. Fix with screws. \n\n\nWe proceed to assemble the fork from pieces 7A and 7B, fitting them with pieces 6A and 6B. Fix with screws. \n\nNow, we will proceed to assemble all these parts, we will take the pieces 2A and 2B that we will join to form the frame of the Camicleta. \nPlace the corresponding bolts, washers and nuts. \nAdjust the seat height according to preference, before adjusting the side. \n\n\nConnect the assembled fork to the frame via an axle and adjust. \nFit the handlebar through the holes. \nFinally, fit the wheels with their respective axles." } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/make-a-climbing-brush/README.md b/howtos/make-a-climbing-brush/README.md index c0b6e7f28..462823a61 100644 --- a/howtos/make-a-climbing-brush/README.md +++ b/howtos/make-a-climbing-brush/README.md @@ -1,53 +1,54 @@ --- title: Make a climbing brush slug: make-a-climbing-brush -description: Create a climbing brush using plastic and woodworking techniques to achieve a unique pattern. +description: Make a climbing brush by kneading plastic dough and woodworking skills, to create a unique pattern. -An oven is required; powered tools like a sander, saw, and router are recommended for ease. +No shredder / other Precious Plastic is needed, just an oven needed. However, some powered tools like a sander, jaw saw, router, will make things much easier. -For feedback or suggestions, please leave comments or contact us on social media. +If you find any improvement can be done, please leave comments or contact us on Instagram or Facebook to let us know. tags: ["melting","HDPE","product"] category: Products difficulty: Medium time: < 1 week -keywords: climbing brush, woodworking techniques, HDPE plastic, CNC router, epoxy hair insertion, DIY climbing equipment, plastic melting process, brush design pattern, sanding techniques, climbing gym accessories +keywords: location: Hong Kong, Hong Kong --- # Make a climbing brush ![Make a climbing brush](DSCF5284.jpg) -Create a climbing brush using plastic and woodworking techniques to achieve a unique pattern. +Make a climbing brush by kneading plastic dough and woodworking skills, to create a unique pattern. -An oven is required; powered tools like a sander, saw, and router are recommended for ease. +No shredder / other Precious Plastic is needed, just an oven needed. However, some powered tools like a sander, jaw saw, router, will make things much easier. -For feedback or suggestions, please leave comments or contact us on social media. +If you find any improvement can be done, please leave comments or contact us on Instagram or Facebook to let us know. User Location: Hong Kong, Hong Kong ## Steps ### Step 1: Preparation -## Required Tools - +For this project, the following tools are needed: - Oven - Oven tray -- Two sheets of Teflon paper -- Oven gloves -- Mould: at least 12 in (30 cm) wide x 98 in (250 cm) long x 8 in (20 cm) high -- HDPE plastic -- White glue -- Saw (such as jaw saw or band saw) -- Sander (grit sizes: 40, 80, 120, 240, 400, 800, 1000) -- Polisher with wool pad -- Soldering iron -- Woodworking CNC router +- Teflon Paper x2 +- Gloves (oven use) +- Mould, at least (W)30 x (L)250 x (H)20 +- Plastic (HDPE) +- White Glue +- Saw (jaw saw, band saw, etc.) +- Sander (40, 80, 120, 240, 400, 800 and 1000 grit are used) +- Polisher with a wool pad +- Soldiering Iron +- Woodworking CNC Router + ![DSCF4806.JPG](./DSCF4806.JPG) ### Step 2: Preparing Plastic (HDPE) Pieces -For this project, use HDPE as it is easier to work with than PP. Ensure the plastic is clean and labels are fully removed. Cut the plastic into pieces and sort them by color. +For this project, we need to use HDPE, we had tested with PP but it is very hard to knead. Make sure the plastics are clean and all the labels are removed nicely. Cut them into pieces (size is not a big matter) and sort them by colour. + +The amount of plastic needed is determined by the size of the mould. For every 1cm3 of volume, a gram of plastic is needed. In our case, ~850g of HDPE is required. -The quantity of plastic depends on the mold size. For every 0.06 cubic inches (1 cm³) of volume, one gram of plastic is required. In this example, approximately 1.87 lbs (850 g) of HDPE is needed. ![DSCF4804.JPG](./DSCF4804.JPG) @@ -60,9 +61,10 @@ The quantity of plastic depends on the mold size. For every 0.06 cubic inches (1 ### Step 3: Melting the Plastic -Place the plastic sheet on the oven tray with a Teflon sheet between layers. If the sheets do not stack well, transfer them to another container with a Teflon sheet. +Stack up the plastic sheet on the oven tray with a Teflon sheet in between. If the plastics could not properly stack on the tray, put them into another volume with a Teflon sheet. + +Set the oven to 180-190 degrees Celsius, and ‘bake’ the plastic for around 25-30mins, until the plastics are all melted. -Preheat the oven to 180-190°C (356-374°F) and heat the plastic for 25-30 minutes until fully melted. ![DSCF4818.JPG](./DSCF4818.JPG) @@ -72,7 +74,7 @@ Preheat the oven to 180-190°C (356-374°F) and heat the plastic for 25-30 minut ### Step 4: Stack, Cut and Knead -Remove the plastic while wearing thick gloves. Stack and cut the plastic, folding it as needed. Experiment to develop your method for layering different colors. +Take out the plastic, definitely want a pair of thick gloves, then stack them up, cut off, fold them… Play with it and find your own way to stack multiple layers of colour in the plastic dough. ![DSCF4832.JPG](./DSCF4832.JPG) @@ -85,7 +87,8 @@ Remove the plastic while wearing thick gloves. Stack and cut the plastic, foldin ### Step 5: Melt and Repeat -After allowing a few minutes to cool, the "dough" will become too firm to knead. Return it to the oven, melt, and repeat until the desired pattern is achieved. +After a few minutes, the ‘dough’ should be cool down, and it wouldn’t be able to knead. Put it back into the oven, melt it again and repeat until you are happy with the pattern. + ![DSCF4860.JPG](./DSCF4860.JPG) @@ -98,7 +101,8 @@ After allowing a few minutes to cool, the "dough" will become too firm to knead. ### Step 6: Forming Shape -When satisfied with the mixture, place it into the mold and press with a heavy object. Allow it to cool. +When you are satisfied with the ‘dough’, fit it into the mould and press it with something heavy. Wait for it to cool down. + ![DSCF4842.JPG](./DSCF4842.JPG) @@ -111,7 +115,9 @@ When satisfied with the mixture, place it into the mold and press with a heavy o ### Step 7: Cut the Block -If you have a larger mold, cut a strip approximately 1.18 in x 9.84 in x 0.98 in (30 mm x 250 mm x 25 mm) using a saw with a wood-cutting blade. +If you have a bigger mould, cut an around 30mm x 250mm x 25mm strip with a saw. +Cut it with a wood cutting blade will be fine. + ![DSCF4869.JPG](./DSCF4869.JPG) @@ -121,7 +127,8 @@ If you have a larger mold, cut a strip approximately 1.18 in x 9.84 in x 0.98 in ### Step 8: Glue the Outline and cut it out -Print the outline of the brush to scale and attach it to the strip using white glue. If the surface is uneven, sand it smooth. Cut the outline with an offset of 2-3 mm (0.08-0.12 in) for additional sanding. +Print the outline of the brush in 1:1 scale, and glue it onto the strip with white glue. If the surface is not flat and hard to glue, sand it with the sander. Then cut the outline out, offset 2-3mm for further sanding. + ![DSCF4911.JPG](./DSCF4911.JPG) @@ -134,7 +141,8 @@ Print the outline of the brush to scale and attach it to the strip using white g ### Step 9: Sanding into Desired Shape -Sand the plastic to the desired shape using sandpaper with grits of 40, 80, and 120. Either a belt sander or a hand sander can be used effectively. +Sand the plastic into the desired shape, 40, 80, 120 girts of sandpaper is used. Both belt sander and hand sander are used, but either one is ok. + ![DSCF4919.JPG](./DSCF4919.JPG) @@ -144,7 +152,7 @@ Sand the plastic to the desired shape using sandpaper with grits of 40, 80, and ### Step 10: Fill Holes -To address any gaps in the brush, use a soldering iron to fill them with leftover materials. Trim excess plastic with a cutter and sand the surface. +If there are any holes in the brush, fill them with leftover materials with a soldering iron. Then cut off the excessed plastic with a cuter and sand it again. ![DSCF4927.JPG](./DSCF4927.JPG) @@ -157,7 +165,10 @@ To address any gaps in the brush, use a soldering iron to fill them with leftove ### Step 11: Fine Sanding and Polishing -When the brush shape is formed, sand up to 1000 grit (18.5 microns). Then polish with a wool pad at high speed. If scratches appear, sand again. Wax can be used during polishing, but it is not essential. +When the shape of the brush is formed, keep sanding until 1000 girts. Then polish the brush with a wool pad at high speed. If any stretches appear, sand it again. + +Wax may also be used while polishing but not necessary. + ![DSCF4947.JPG](./DSCF4947.JPG) @@ -167,13 +178,14 @@ When the brush shape is formed, sand up to 1000 grit (18.5 microns). Then polish ### Step 12: Mill the Brush Head and Drill the Hole -Apply adhesive to the area to be milled on the brush, and then mill it with a CNC Router, keeping 1-2 mm (0.04-0.08 in) of the brush edge intact. Ensure the hole is at least 10-15 mm (0.39-0.59 in) deep to maintain the brush's firmness. +Glue the area to be a mill on the brush, and mill the brush with a CNC Router. 1-2 mm of the brush edge is kept. 10-15mm is the minimum depth of the hole, it will hold the firmness of the brush hair. -Alternatively, drilling holes is possible, but this significantly increases the time required for hair insertion. +Otherwise, drilling holes also works for the brush but insert time of the hair will greatly increase. -Drill an M3-M5 (0.12-0.20 in) hole at the end of the brush to attach a rope. +Drill an M3-M5 hole at the end of the brush, for adding rope to the brush. + +REMINDER: Protect the brushes with masking tape. -REMINDER: Use masking tape to protect the brushes. ![DSCF4978.JPG](./DSCF4978.JPG) @@ -186,7 +198,10 @@ REMINDER: Use masking tape to protect the brushes. ### Step 13: Insert the Hair -To insert the hair, use 1/8 to 3/16 inches (3-5 mm) of epoxy. Fill the area with hair until it is full. Allow the epoxy to set. +To insert the hair, epoxy is used sadly (Please tell me if there are any better ways). Fill up the area with 3-5 mm of epoxy and start putting the hair until no room left. + +Let the epoxy set. + ![DSCF4990.JPG](./DSCF4990.JPG) @@ -199,7 +214,8 @@ To insert the hair, use 1/8 to 3/16 inches (3-5 mm) of epoxy. Fill the area with ### Step 14: Cut the Hair -To ensure the brush tip remains effective, maintain approximately 20 mm (0.79 inches) for the tip and 15 mm (0.59 inches) on the opposite end. +Since the tip of the brush will consume mush faster, keep around 20 mm for the tip and 15 mm on another way. + ![DSCF5002.JPG](./DSCF5002.JPG) @@ -209,56 +225,12 @@ To ensure the brush tip remains effective, maintain approximately 20 mm (0.79 in ### Step 15: Go Climbing -Create a climbing brush and use it at your gym or crag to clean holds effectively. +There is no reason to make a climbing brush but do not climb! Go to your climbing GYM or to the crag and start brushing the holes with your new brush! + + ![DSCF5284.jpg](./DSCF5284.jpg) ## Resources -### Tools - -- Saw (jaw saw, band saw) -- Sander (grit sizes: 40–1000) -- Polisher with wool pad -- Soldering iron -- Woodworking CNC CNC Router - -### Hardware - -- Oven (180–190°C / 356–374°F) -- Mould (12x98x8 in / 30x250x20 cm) -- Oven tray & Teflon sheets -- Drill (M3–M5 bits) -- Masking tape - -### Materials - -- HDPE plastic (clean, label-free) -- White glue -- Epoxy resin (1/8–3/16 in / 3–5 mm thickness) -- Wax (optional for polishing) -- Rope (for brush attachment) -## References -## References - -### Articles - -- Make a climbing brush - [filtered] Academy -- [HDPE Blocks From Plastic Bottles - Instructables](https://www.instructables.com/HDPE-Blocks-From-Plastic-Bottles/) -- [DIY Stick Brush - Climbing.com](https://www.climbing.com/gear/diy-stick-brush/) -- [How to Clean Climbing Holds - Andy Librande](http://andylibrande.com/homeclimbingwall/page/2/) - -### YouTube - -- [Climbing Brushes for Different Climbers - Escape Climbing](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KLS-VABePT0) -- [CNC CNC Router Bits Tutorial - YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wdQ-_hllmKY) - -### Open-Source Designs - -- [BHToolset for 3D-Printable Climbing Holds - GitHub](https://github.com/JeremSparte/BHToolset) -- [PeggyBoard Interactive Climbing Wall - GitHub](https://github.com/PegorK/PeggyBoard) -- [Code Brushes (VS Code Tool) - GitHub Next](https://githubnext.com/projects/code-brushes/) - -### Papers - -- ~~[The Emergence of the Digital Humanities (PDF)](https://pure.lib.usf.edu/ws/portalfiles/portal/40730122/The+Emergence+of+the+Digital+Humanities.pdf)~~ \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/make-a-climbing-brush/config.json b/howtos/make-a-climbing-brush/config.json index e0b4a0dec..1e7a5b0d8 100644 --- a/howtos/make-a-climbing-brush/config.json +++ b/howtos/make-a-climbing-brush/config.json @@ -7,7 +7,7 @@ "label": "Products" }, "mentions": [], - "description": "Create a climbing brush using plastic and woodworking techniques to achieve a unique pattern.\n\nAn oven is required; powered tools like a sander, saw, and router are recommended for ease.\n\nFor feedback or suggestions, please leave comments or contact us on social media.", + "description": "Make a climbing brush by kneading plastic dough and woodworking skills, to create a unique pattern. \n\nNo shredder / other Precious Plastic is needed, just an oven needed. However, some powered tools like a sander, jaw saw, router, will make things much easier. \n\nIf you find any improvement can be done, please leave comments or contact us on Instagram or Facebook to let us know.", "_deleted": false, "_created": "2022-01-27T15:25:21.204Z", "title": "Make a climbing brush", @@ -53,10 +53,10 @@ ], "title": "Preparation", "_animationKey": "unique1", - "text": "## Required Tools\n\n- Oven\n- Oven tray\n- Two sheets of Teflon paper\n- Oven gloves\n- Mould: at least 12 in (30 cm) wide x 98 in (250 cm) long x 8 in (20 cm) high\n- HDPE plastic\n- White glue\n- Saw (such as jaw saw or band saw)\n- Sander (grit sizes: 40, 80, 120, 240, 400, 800, 1000)\n- Polisher with wool pad\n- Soldering iron\n- Woodworking CNC router" + "text": "For this project, the following tools are needed:\n- Oven\n- Oven tray\n- Teflon Paper x2\n- Gloves (oven use)\n- Mould, at least (W)30 x (L)250 x (H)20\n- Plastic (HDPE)\n- White Glue\n- Saw (jaw saw, band saw, etc.)\n- Sander (40, 80, 120, 240, 400, 800 and 1000 grit are used)\n- Polisher with a wool pad\n- Soldiering Iron\n- Woodworking CNC Router\n" }, { - "text": "For this project, use HDPE as it is easier to work with than PP. Ensure the plastic is clean and labels are fully removed. Cut the plastic into pieces and sort them by color.\n\nThe quantity of plastic depends on the mold size. For every 0.06 cubic inches (1 cm³) of volume, one gram of plastic is required. In this example, approximately 1.87 lbs (850 g) of HDPE is needed.", + "text": "For this project, we need to use HDPE, we had tested with PP but it is very hard to knead. Make sure the plastics are clean and all the labels are removed nicely. Cut them into pieces (size is not a big matter) and sort them by colour. \n\nThe amount of plastic needed is determined by the size of the mould. For every 1cm3 of volume, a gram of plastic is needed. In our case, ~850g of HDPE is required.\n", "images": [ { "timeCreated": "2022-01-27T15:24:44.799Z", @@ -99,7 +99,7 @@ "_animationKey": "unique2" }, { - "text": "Place the plastic sheet on the oven tray with a Teflon sheet between layers. If the sheets do not stack well, transfer them to another container with a Teflon sheet.\n\nPreheat the oven to 180-190°C (356-374°F) and heat the plastic for 25-30 minutes until fully melted.", + "text": "Stack up the plastic sheet on the oven tray with a Teflon sheet in between. If the plastics could not properly stack on the tray, put them into another volume with a Teflon sheet. \n\nSet the oven to 180-190 degrees Celsius, and ‘bake’ the plastic for around 25-30mins, until the plastics are all melted. \n", "_animationKey": "unique3", "images": [ { @@ -170,10 +170,10 @@ } ], "title": "Stack, Cut and Knead", - "text": "Remove the plastic while wearing thick gloves. Stack and cut the plastic, folding it as needed. Experiment to develop your method for layering different colors." + "text": "Take out the plastic, definitely want a pair of thick gloves, then stack them up, cut off, fold them… Play with it and find your own way to stack multiple layers of colour in the plastic dough." }, { - "text": "After allowing a few minutes to cool, the \"dough\" will become too firm to knead. Return it to the oven, melt, and repeat until the desired pattern is achieved.", + "text": "After a few minutes, the ‘dough’ should be cool down, and it wouldn’t be able to knead. Put it back into the oven, melt it again and repeat until you are happy with the pattern. \n", "_animationKey": "uniquemj30os", "images": [ { @@ -216,7 +216,7 @@ "title": "Melt and Repeat" }, { - "text": "When satisfied with the mixture, place it into the mold and press with a heavy object. Allow it to cool.", + "text": "When you are satisfied with the ‘dough’, fit it into the mould and press it with something heavy. Wait for it to cool down. \n", "images": [ { "downloadUrl": "https://firebasestorage.googleapis.com/v0/b/onearmyworld.appspot.com/o/uploads%2Fhowtos%2FIFDQLGNNvs8SrLjUQNBS%2FDSCF4842.JPG?alt=media&token=609e14f2-2b54-4424-b99e-9c59f601f022", @@ -286,7 +286,7 @@ "alt": "DSCF4873.JPG" } ], - "text": "If you have a larger mold, cut a strip approximately 1.18 in x 9.84 in x 0.98 in (30 mm x 250 mm x 25 mm) using a saw with a wood-cutting blade.", + "text": "If you have a bigger mould, cut an around 30mm x 250mm x 25mm strip with a saw.\nCut it with a wood cutting blade will be fine. \n", "_animationKey": "unique7ynbnd" }, { @@ -329,7 +329,7 @@ } ], "title": "Glue the Outline and cut it out", - "text": "Print the outline of the brush to scale and attach it to the strip using white glue. If the surface is uneven, sand it smooth. Cut the outline with an offset of 2-3 mm (0.08-0.12 in) for additional sanding.", + "text": "Print the outline of the brush in 1:1 scale, and glue it onto the strip with white glue. If the surface is not flat and hard to glue, sand it with the sander. Then cut the outline out, offset 2-3mm for further sanding.\n", "_animationKey": "unique6m5jie" }, { @@ -361,7 +361,7 @@ ], "title": "Sanding into Desired Shape", "_animationKey": "unique1i8bkg", - "text": "Sand the plastic to the desired shape using sandpaper with grits of 40, 80, and 120. Either a belt sander or a hand sander can be used effectively." + "text": "Sand the plastic into the desired shape, 40, 80, 120 girts of sandpaper is used. Both belt sander and hand sander are used, but either one is ok.\n" }, { "title": "Fill Holes", @@ -404,10 +404,10 @@ "alt": "DSCF4943.JPG" } ], - "text": "To address any gaps in the brush, use a soldering iron to fill them with leftover materials. Trim excess plastic with a cutter and sand the surface." + "text": "If there are any holes in the brush, fill them with leftover materials with a soldering iron. Then cut off the excessed plastic with a cuter and sand it again." }, { - "text": "When the brush shape is formed, sand up to 1000 grit (18.5 microns). Then polish with a wool pad at high speed. If scratches appear, sand again. Wax can be used during polishing, but it is not essential.", + "text": "When the shape of the brush is formed, keep sanding until 1000 girts. Then polish the brush with a wool pad at high speed. If any stretches appear, sand it again. \n\nWax may also be used while polishing but not necessary. \n", "title": "Fine Sanding and Polishing", "images": [ { @@ -476,7 +476,7 @@ "alt": "DSCF4986.JPG" } ], - "text": "Apply adhesive to the area to be milled on the brush, and then mill it with a CNC Router, keeping 1-2 mm (0.04-0.08 in) of the brush edge intact. Ensure the hole is at least 10-15 mm (0.39-0.59 in) deep to maintain the brush's firmness. \n\nAlternatively, drilling holes is possible, but this significantly increases the time required for hair insertion.\n\nDrill an M3-M5 (0.12-0.20 in) hole at the end of the brush to attach a rope.\n\nREMINDER: Use masking tape to protect the brushes.", + "text": "Glue the area to be a mill on the brush, and mill the brush with a CNC Router. 1-2 mm of the brush edge is kept. 10-15mm is the minimum depth of the hole, it will hold the firmness of the brush hair. \n\nOtherwise, drilling holes also works for the brush but insert time of the hair will greatly increase. \n\nDrill an M3-M5 hole at the end of the brush, for adding rope to the brush. \n\nREMINDER: Protect the brushes with masking tape.\n", "title": "Mill the Brush Head and Drill the Hole", "_animationKey": "unique4e81st" }, @@ -521,7 +521,7 @@ "alt": "DSCF4999.JPG" } ], - "text": "To insert the hair, use 1/8 to 3/16 inches (3-5 mm) of epoxy. Fill the area with hair until it is full. Allow the epoxy to set." + "text": "To insert the hair, epoxy is used sadly (Please tell me if there are any better ways). Fill up the area with 3-5 mm of epoxy and start putting the hair until no room left. \n\nLet the epoxy set. \n" }, { "images": [ @@ -552,7 +552,7 @@ ], "title": "Cut the Hair", "_animationKey": "uniquek0khj", - "text": "To ensure the brush tip remains effective, maintain approximately 20 mm (0.79 inches) for the tip and 15 mm (0.59 inches) on the opposite end." + "text": "Since the tip of the brush will consume mush faster, keep around 20 mm for the tip and 15 mm on another way. \n" }, { "images": [ @@ -570,7 +570,7 @@ } ], "title": "Go Climbing", - "text": "Create a climbing brush and use it at your gym or crag to clean holds effectively.", + "text": "There is no reason to make a climbing brush but do not climb! Go to your climbing GYM or to the crag and start brushing the holes with your new brush!\n\n", "_animationKey": "uniquecsyb7s" } ], @@ -778,9 +778,5 @@ "images": [] } }, - "content": "Create a climbing brush using plastic and woodworking techniques to achieve a unique pattern.\n\nAn oven is required; powered tools like a sander, saw, and router are recommended for ease.\n\nFor feedback or suggestions, please leave comments or contact us on social media.\n\n\nUser Location: Hong Kong, Hong Kong\n\n## Required Tools\n\n- Oven\n- Oven tray\n- Two sheets of Teflon paper\n- Oven gloves\n- Mould: at least 12 in (30 cm) wide x 98 in (250 cm) long x 8 in (20 cm) high\n- HDPE plastic\n- White glue\n- Saw (such as jaw saw or band saw)\n- Sander (grit sizes: 40, 80, 120, 240, 400, 800, 1000)\n- Polisher with wool pad\n- Soldering iron\n- Woodworking CNC router\n\nFor this project, use HDPE as it is easier to work with than PP. Ensure the plastic is clean and labels are fully removed. Cut the plastic into pieces and sort them by color.\n\nThe quantity of plastic depends on the mold size. For every 0.06 cubic inches (1 cm³) of volume, one gram of plastic is required. In this example, approximately 1.87 lbs (850 g) of HDPE is needed.\n\nPlace the plastic sheet on the oven tray with a Teflon sheet between layers. If the sheets do not stack well, transfer them to another container with a Teflon sheet.\n\nPreheat the oven to 180-190°C (356-374°F) and heat the plastic for 25-30 minutes until fully melted.\n\nRemove the plastic while wearing thick gloves. Stack and cut the plastic, folding it as needed. Experiment to develop your method for layering different colors.\n\nAfter allowing a few minutes to cool, the \"dough\" will become too firm to knead. Return it to the oven, melt, and repeat until the desired pattern is achieved.\n\nWhen satisfied with the mixture, place it into the mold and press with a heavy object. Allow it to cool.\n\nIf you have a larger mold, cut a strip approximately 1.18 in x 9.84 in x 0.98 in (30 mm x 250 mm x 25 mm) using a saw with a wood-cutting blade.\n\nPrint the outline of the brush to scale and attach it to the strip using white glue. If the surface is uneven, sand it smooth. Cut the outline with an offset of 2-3 mm (0.08-0.12 in) for additional sanding.\n\nSand the plastic to the desired shape using sandpaper with grits of 40, 80, and 120. Either a belt sander or a hand sander can be used effectively.\n\nTo address any gaps in the brush, use a soldering iron to fill them with leftover materials. Trim excess plastic with a cutter and sand the surface.\n\nWhen the brush shape is formed, sand up to 1000 grit (18.5 microns). Then polish with a wool pad at high speed. If scratches appear, sand again. Wax can be used during polishing, but it is not essential.\n\nApply adhesive to the area to be milled on the brush, and then mill it with a CNC Router, keeping 1-2 mm (0.04-0.08 in) of the brush edge intact. Ensure the hole is at least 10-15 mm (0.39-0.59 in) deep to maintain the brush's firmness. \n\nAlternatively, drilling holes is possible, but this significantly increases the time required for hair insertion.\n\nDrill an M3-M5 (0.12-0.20 in) hole at the end of the brush to attach a rope.\n\nREMINDER: Use masking tape to protect the brushes.\n\nTo insert the hair, use 1/8 to 3/16 inches (3-5 mm) of epoxy. Fill the area with hair until it is full. Allow the epoxy to set.\n\nTo ensure the brush tip remains effective, maintain approximately 20 mm (0.79 inches) for the tip and 15 mm (0.59 inches) on the opposite end.\n\nCreate a climbing brush and use it at your gym or crag to clean holds effectively.", - "keywords": "climbing brush, woodworking techniques, HDPE plastic, CNC router, epoxy hair insertion, DIY climbing equipment, plastic melting process, brush design pattern, sanding techniques, climbing gym accessories", - "resources": "### Tools\n\n- Saw (jaw saw, band saw)\n- Sander (grit sizes: 40–1000)\n- Polisher with wool pad\n- Soldering iron\n- Woodworking CNC CNC Router\n\n### Hardware\n\n- Oven (180–190°C / 356–374°F)\n- Mould (12x98x8 in / 30x250x20 cm)\n- Oven tray & Teflon sheets\n- Drill (M3–M5 bits)\n- Masking tape\n\n### Materials\n\n- HDPE plastic (clean, label-free)\n- White glue\n- Epoxy resin (1/8–3/16 in / 3–5 mm thickness)\n- Wax (optional for polishing)\n- Rope (for brush attachment)", - "references": "## References\n\n### Articles\n\n- Make a climbing brush - [filtered] Academy\n- [HDPE Blocks From Plastic Bottles - Instructables](https://www.instructables.com/HDPE-Blocks-From-Plastic-Bottles/)\n- [DIY Stick Brush - Climbing.com](https://www.climbing.com/gear/diy-stick-brush/)\n- [How to Clean Climbing Holds - Andy Librande](http://andylibrande.com/homeclimbingwall/page/2/)\n\n### YouTube\n\n- [Climbing Brushes for Different Climbers - Escape Climbing](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KLS-VABePT0)\n- [CNC CNC Router Bits Tutorial - YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wdQ-_hllmKY)\n\n### Open-Source Designs\n\n- [BHToolset for 3D-Printable Climbing Holds - GitHub](https://github.com/JeremSparte/BHToolset)\n- [PeggyBoard Interactive Climbing Wall - GitHub](https://github.com/PegorK/PeggyBoard)\n- [Code Brushes (VS Code Tool) - GitHub Next](https://githubnext.com/projects/code-brushes/)\n\n### Papers\n\n- ~~[The Emergence of the Digital Humanities (PDF)](https://pure.lib.usf.edu/ws/portalfiles/portal/40730122/The+Emergence+of+the+Digital+Humanities.pdf)~~", - "brief": "Create a unique climbing brush using plastic and woodworking techniques. Follow our guide with helpful tips and tool recommendations for the best results." + "content": "Make a climbing brush by kneading plastic dough and woodworking skills, to create a unique pattern. \n\nNo shredder / other Precious Plastic is needed, just an oven needed. However, some powered tools like a sander, jaw saw, router, will make things much easier. \n\nIf you find any improvement can be done, please leave comments or contact us on Instagram or Facebook to let us know.\n\n\nUser Location: Hong Kong, Hong Kong\n\nFor this project, the following tools are needed:\n- Oven\n- Oven tray\n- Teflon Paper x2\n- Gloves (oven use)\n- Mould, at least (W)30 x (L)250 x (H)20\n- Plastic (HDPE)\n- White Glue\n- Saw (jaw saw, band saw, etc.)\n- Sander (40, 80, 120, 240, 400, 800 and 1000 grit are used)\n- Polisher with a wool pad\n- Soldiering Iron\n- Woodworking CNC Router\n\n\nFor this project, we need to use HDPE, we had tested with PP but it is very hard to knead. Make sure the plastics are clean and all the labels are removed nicely. Cut them into pieces (size is not a big matter) and sort them by colour. \n\nThe amount of plastic needed is determined by the size of the mould. For every 1cm3 of volume, a gram of plastic is needed. In our case, ~850g of HDPE is required.\n\n\nStack up the plastic sheet on the oven tray with a Teflon sheet in between. If the plastics could not properly stack on the tray, put them into another volume with a Teflon sheet. \n\nSet the oven to 180-190 degrees Celsius, and ‘bake’ the plastic for around 25-30mins, until the plastics are all melted. \n\n\nTake out the plastic, definitely want a pair of thick gloves, then stack them up, cut off, fold them… Play with it and find your own way to stack multiple layers of colour in the plastic dough.\n\nAfter a few minutes, the ‘dough’ should be cool down, and it wouldn’t be able to knead. Put it back into the oven, melt it again and repeat until you are happy with the pattern. \n\n\nWhen you are satisfied with the ‘dough’, fit it into the mould and press it with something heavy. Wait for it to cool down. \n\n\nIf you have a bigger mould, cut an around 30mm x 250mm x 25mm strip with a saw.\nCut it with a wood cutting blade will be fine. \n\n\nPrint the outline of the brush in 1:1 scale, and glue it onto the strip with white glue. If the surface is not flat and hard to glue, sand it with the sander. Then cut the outline out, offset 2-3mm for further sanding.\n\n\nSand the plastic into the desired shape, 40, 80, 120 girts of sandpaper is used. Both belt sander and hand sander are used, but either one is ok.\n\n\nIf there are any holes in the brush, fill them with leftover materials with a soldering iron. Then cut off the excessed plastic with a cuter and sand it again.\n\nWhen the shape of the brush is formed, keep sanding until 1000 girts. Then polish the brush with a wool pad at high speed. If any stretches appear, sand it again. \n\nWax may also be used while polishing but not necessary. \n\n\nGlue the area to be a mill on the brush, and mill the brush with a CNC Router. 1-2 mm of the brush edge is kept. 10-15mm is the minimum depth of the hole, it will hold the firmness of the brush hair. \n\nOtherwise, drilling holes also works for the brush but insert time of the hair will greatly increase. \n\nDrill an M3-M5 hole at the end of the brush, for adding rope to the brush. \n\nREMINDER: Protect the brushes with masking tape.\n\n\nTo insert the hair, epoxy is used sadly (Please tell me if there are any better ways). Fill up the area with 3-5 mm of epoxy and start putting the hair until no room left. \n\nLet the epoxy set. \n\n\nSince the tip of the brush will consume mush faster, keep around 20 mm for the tip and 15 mm on another way. \n\n\nThere is no reason to make a climbing brush but do not climb! Go to your climbing GYM or to the crag and start brushing the holes with your new brush!\n\n" } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/make-a-coin-bottle-opener-mould/README.md b/howtos/make-a-coin-bottle-opener-mould/README.md index 77b4f6910..929cf3180 100644 --- a/howtos/make-a-coin-bottle-opener-mould/README.md +++ b/howtos/make-a-coin-bottle-opener-mould/README.md @@ -1,35 +1,35 @@ --- title: Make a Coin Bottle Opener Mould slug: make-a-coin-bottle-opener-mould -description: This guide provides information to create a Coin Bottle Opener. +description: In this How-To you will get access to the necessary information to create your own Coin Bottle Opener. -The design accommodates a 10 Swiss cent coin, but you can adjust the parameters in the Fusion file for a different coin. +The opener is designed around a 10 Swiss cent piece. You can change the parameters in the Fusion file to fit the mould to your own coin. -This model can be used for giveaways or workshop products. For selling the openers or molds, please contact the designer. +This model may be used as free giveaways/workshop products and similar. Please get in touch with the designer before you want to sell the openers or moulds. tags: ["mould","product"] category: Moulds difficulty: Hard time: < 1 week -keywords: Coin Bottle Opener, Swiss Coin Opener, Fusion Design Opener, CNC Milling Parameters, Aluminum Bottle Opener, Steel Mold Longevity, Polypropylene Plastic Opener, Transparent Color Mixing, Injection Process Tips, Zurich Workshop Product +keywords: location: Zurich, Switzerland --- # Make a Coin Bottle Opener Mould ![Make a Coin Bottle Opener Mould](IMG_5146-18b0f0f07d4.jpeg) -This guide provides information to create a Coin Bottle Opener. +In this How-To you will get access to the necessary information to create your own Coin Bottle Opener. -The design accommodates a 10 Swiss cent coin, but you can adjust the parameters in the Fusion file for a different coin. +The opener is designed around a 10 Swiss cent piece. You can change the parameters in the Fusion file to fit the mould to your own coin. -This model can be used for giveaways or workshop products. For selling the openers or molds, please contact the designer. +This model may be used as free giveaways/workshop products and similar. Please get in touch with the designer before you want to sell the openers or moulds. User Location: Zurich, Switzerland ## Steps ### Step 1: Download the file and adapt the parameters -The opener is designed to accommodate a 10 Swiss cent piece. +The opener is designed around a 10 Swiss cent piece. -Adjust the parameters to match your coin's dimensions carefully. Incorrect measurements may cause the mold to leak, as it will not close properly, leaving a gap (if the coin is too wide) or allowing material to cover the coin (if the coin is too thin). +Change the parameters to fit the dimensions of your coin. Important to do this very carefully. If dimensions not correct the mould can leak, as it will not close properly and a little gap will remain (if the coin is too wide), or plastic will flow on the coin, covering it (if the coin is too thin). -Modify the necessary parameters for CNC milling. +Adapt the parameters necessary for CNC milling. ![9be4aca6473dd23fbd4b131c99b21513_display_large-18b0f037107.jpg](./9be4aca6473dd23fbd4b131c99b21513_display_large-18b0f037107.jpg) @@ -42,9 +42,9 @@ Modify the necessary parameters for CNC milling. ### Step 2: CNC milling -Adjust CNC milling parameters appropriately. Consult with an experienced individual in your community or consider ordering the mold from a workshop. +Adapt the parameters to fit the CNC milling process. Please seek for advice to someone in your community that has experience, or order the mould from a [filtered] Workshop through the Bazar. -Material: Aluminum/Steel +Material: aluminium/steel ![8b9a892ec92cb5cdb626b59be652916d_display_large-18b0f039907.jpg](./8b9a892ec92cb5cdb626b59be652916d_display_large-18b0f039907.jpg) @@ -57,26 +57,13 @@ Material: Aluminum/Steel ### Step 3: Feedback from our experience -### Mould Material and Usage +Material of mould: aluminium. We have been using the mould for 5 years, it has scratches now, but overall works very well. With steel you should have a longer lasting mould. -- **Material**: Aluminum - - *Longevity*: Used for 5 years, shows scratches but remains effective. - - *Alternative*: Steel for extended durability. +Plastic used: Polypropylene (works perfectly) -### Plastic and Color Recommendations +Colors: nice to have a color mix. Works great with transparent. People love black/white mix. -- **Plastic**: Polypropylene - - *Performance*: Optimal results. - -- **Color Mixing**: - - *Preference*: Mixed colors, especially transparent. - - *Popularity*: Black/white combinations are favored. - -### Injection Process - -- **Ease of Use**: Mould design allows straightforward injection. -- **Heating**: Rarely needed due to the mould's compact shape. -- **Key Consideration**: Ensure adequate pressure; insufficient pressure may cause plastic not to adhere properly at the base, resulting in an incomplete finish. +Injection: quite easy as the mould is not too thin on any part. Mould rarely requires heating due to compact shape and no thin parts. Important to press enough as otherwise in the bottom the plastic will not adhere nicely to the mould, leaving an unfinished touch" ![1F507B13-519A-40D9-A0C7-432B64FE82F5-18b0f0dba5c.jpeg](./1F507B13-519A-40D9-A0C7-432B64FE82F5-18b0f0dba5c.jpeg) @@ -88,41 +75,4 @@ Material: Aluminum/Steel ![IMG_5125-18b0f0e1188.gif](./IMG_5125-18b0f0e1188.gif) ## Resources -To create a Coin Bottle Opener, ensure you have the following tools, software, and hardware: - -### Software - -- [Fusion 360](https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360) for design customization and CNC parameter adjustment[1][5]. - -### Hardware - -- CNC Milling Machine for mold fabrication[4][5]. -- Aluminum mold material (durable, scratch-resistant)[3][6]. -- Steel mold material (longer-lasting alternative to aluminum)[3][6]. - -### Tools - -- Injection Molding Machine for plastic part production[6][8]. -- Calibration Tools to ensure precise coin dimensions (prevents mold leaks)[2][4]. -- Pressure Application Tools to secure plastic adhesion during injection[8]. -- Material Handling Equipment for polypropylene plastic[7]. -- Color Mixing Tools for transparent or black/white combinations[7][8]. -## References -## Articles - -- [Custom Challenge Coin Bottle Opener - Pitch and Rudder](https://pitchandrudder.com/custom-challenge-coin-bottle-opener/) -- [Unique and Oddly Shaped Bottle Opener Coins](https://signaturecoins.com/oddly-shaped-bottle-opener-coins) -- [Custom Bottle Opener Challenge Coin | Embleholics](https://embleholics.com/project/custom-bottle-opener-challenge-coin/) -- [Bottle Opener Challenge Coins](https://www.challengecoins4less.com/blog/forms-with-function-custom-bottle-opener-coins) -- [Custom Bottle Openers – Coin Depot](https://coindepot.com/custom-bottle-openers/) -- [Five Creative Custom Challenge Coin Bottle Openers](https://www.challengecoins4less.com/blog/cracking-open-creativity-with-bottle-opener-challenge-coins) - -## Video Tutorials - -- [Designing a Bottle Opener with Fusion 360 - YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kqqDIA_2w_A) - -## Open-Source Designs - -- [CNC Coin Bottle Opener - STLFinder](https://www.stlfinder.com/3dmodels/bottle-opener-coin/) -- [PP Coin Bottle Opener - Thingiverse](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4619403) -- ~~[PP Coin Bottle Opener - PrusaPrinters](https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/15301-pp-coin-bottle-opener)~~ \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/make-a-coin-bottle-opener-mould/config.json b/howtos/make-a-coin-bottle-opener-mould/config.json index 8ee24cd74..a4ae1bccc 100644 --- a/howtos/make-a-coin-bottle-opener-mould/config.json +++ b/howtos/make-a-coin-bottle-opener-mould/config.json @@ -65,12 +65,12 @@ "alt": "eb53f3261f41f491498980ca5c637ac4_display_large-18b0f038899.jpg" } ], - "text": "The opener is designed to accommodate a 10 Swiss cent piece. \n\nAdjust the parameters to match your coin's dimensions carefully. Incorrect measurements may cause the mold to leak, as it will not close properly, leaving a gap (if the coin is too wide) or allowing material to cover the coin (if the coin is too thin).\n\nModify the necessary parameters for CNC milling.", + "text": "The opener is designed around a 10 Swiss cent piece. \n\nChange the parameters to fit the dimensions of your coin. Important to do this very carefully. If dimensions not correct the mould can leak, as it will not close properly and a little gap will remain (if the coin is too wide), or plastic will flow on the coin, covering it (if the coin is too thin).\n\nAdapt the parameters necessary for CNC milling.", "title": "Download the file and adapt the parameters", "_animationKey": "unique1" }, { - "text": "Adjust CNC milling parameters appropriately. Consult with an experienced individual in your community or consider ordering the mold from a workshop.\n\nMaterial: Aluminum/Steel", + "text": "Adapt the parameters to fit the CNC milling process. Please seek for advice to someone in your community that has experience, or order the mould from a [filtered] Workshop through the Bazar.\n\nMaterial: aluminium/steel", "_animationKey": "unique2", "title": "CNC milling", "images": [ @@ -153,7 +153,7 @@ ], "title": "Feedback from our experience", "_animationKey": "unique3", - "text": "### Mould Material and Usage\n\n- **Material**: Aluminum \n - *Longevity*: Used for 5 years, shows scratches but remains effective.\n - *Alternative*: Steel for extended durability.\n\n### Plastic and Color Recommendations\n\n- **Plastic**: Polypropylene\n - *Performance*: Optimal results.\n \n- **Color Mixing**: \n - *Preference*: Mixed colors, especially transparent.\n - *Popularity*: Black/white combinations are favored.\n\n### Injection Process\n\n- **Ease of Use**: Mould design allows straightforward injection.\n- **Heating**: Rarely needed due to the mould's compact shape.\n- **Key Consideration**: Ensure adequate pressure; insufficient pressure may cause plastic not to adhere properly at the base, resulting in an incomplete finish." + "text": "Material of mould: aluminium. We have been using the mould for 5 years, it has scratches now, but overall works very well. With steel you should have a longer lasting mould.\n\nPlastic used: Polypropylene (works perfectly)\n\nColors: nice to have a color mix. Works great with transparent. People love black/white mix.\n\nInjection: quite easy as the mould is not too thin on any part. Mould rarely requires heating due to compact shape and no thin parts. Important to press enough as otherwise in the bottom the plastic will not adhere nicely to the mould, leaving an unfinished touch\"" } ], "_createdBy": "precious-plastic-zurich", @@ -180,7 +180,7 @@ "_id": "kLlEUs8qlAn5jGO1WlPv", "mentions": [], "title": "Make a Coin Bottle Opener Mould", - "description": "This guide provides information to create a Coin Bottle Opener.\n\nThe design accommodates a 10 Swiss cent coin, but you can adjust the parameters in the Fusion file for a different coin.\n\nThis model can be used for giveaways or workshop products. For selling the openers or molds, please contact the designer.", + "description": "In this How-To you will get access to the necessary information to create your own Coin Bottle Opener.\n\nThe opener is designed around a 10 Swiss cent piece. You can change the parameters in the Fusion file to fit the mould to your own coin.\n\nThis model may be used as free giveaways/workshop products and similar. Please get in touch with the designer before you want to sell the openers or moulds.", "time": "< 1 week", "total_views": 301, "tags": [ @@ -308,9 +308,5 @@ "urls": [] } }, - "content": "This guide provides information to create a Coin Bottle Opener.\n\nThe design accommodates a 10 Swiss cent coin, but you can adjust the parameters in the Fusion file for a different coin.\n\nThis model can be used for giveaways or workshop products. For selling the openers or molds, please contact the designer.\n\n\nUser Location: Zurich, Switzerland\n\nThe opener is designed to accommodate a 10 Swiss cent piece. \n\nAdjust the parameters to match your coin's dimensions carefully. Incorrect measurements may cause the mold to leak, as it will not close properly, leaving a gap (if the coin is too wide) or allowing material to cover the coin (if the coin is too thin).\n\nModify the necessary parameters for CNC milling.\n\nAdjust CNC milling parameters appropriately. Consult with an experienced individual in your community or consider ordering the mold from a workshop.\n\nMaterial: Aluminum/Steel\n\n### Mould Material and Usage\n\n- **Material**: Aluminum \n - *Longevity*: Used for 5 years, shows scratches but remains effective.\n - *Alternative*: Steel for extended durability.\n\n### Plastic and Color Recommendations\n\n- **Plastic**: Polypropylene\n - *Performance*: Optimal results.\n \n- **Color Mixing**: \n - *Preference*: Mixed colors, especially transparent.\n - *Popularity*: Black/white combinations are favored.\n\n### Injection Process\n\n- **Ease of Use**: Mould design allows straightforward injection.\n- **Heating**: Rarely needed due to the mould's compact shape.\n- **Key Consideration**: Ensure adequate pressure; insufficient pressure may cause plastic not to adhere properly at the base, resulting in an incomplete finish.", - "keywords": "Coin Bottle Opener, Swiss Coin Opener, Fusion Design Opener, CNC Milling Parameters, Aluminum Bottle Opener, Steel Mold Longevity, Polypropylene Plastic Opener, Transparent Color Mixing, Injection Process Tips, Zurich Workshop Product", - "resources": "To create a Coin Bottle Opener, ensure you have the following tools, software, and hardware:\n\n### Software\n\n- [Fusion 360](https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360) for design customization and CNC parameter adjustment[1][5].\n\n### Hardware\n\n- CNC Milling Machine for mold fabrication[4][5].\n- Aluminum mold material (durable, scratch-resistant)[3][6].\n- Steel mold material (longer-lasting alternative to aluminum)[3][6].\n\n### Tools\n\n- Injection Molding Machine for plastic part production[6][8].\n- Calibration Tools to ensure precise coin dimensions (prevents mold leaks)[2][4].\n- Pressure Application Tools to secure plastic adhesion during injection[8].\n- Material Handling Equipment for polypropylene plastic[7].\n- Color Mixing Tools for transparent or black/white combinations[7][8].", - "references": "## Articles\n\n- [Custom Challenge Coin Bottle Opener - Pitch and Rudder](https://pitchandrudder.com/custom-challenge-coin-bottle-opener/)\n- [Unique and Oddly Shaped Bottle Opener Coins](https://signaturecoins.com/oddly-shaped-bottle-opener-coins)\n- [Custom Bottle Opener Challenge Coin | Embleholics](https://embleholics.com/project/custom-bottle-opener-challenge-coin/)\n- [Bottle Opener Challenge Coins](https://www.challengecoins4less.com/blog/forms-with-function-custom-bottle-opener-coins)\n- [Custom Bottle Openers – Coin Depot](https://coindepot.com/custom-bottle-openers/)\n- [Five Creative Custom Challenge Coin Bottle Openers](https://www.challengecoins4less.com/blog/cracking-open-creativity-with-bottle-opener-challenge-coins)\n\n## Video Tutorials\n\n- [Designing a Bottle Opener with Fusion 360 - YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kqqDIA_2w_A)\n\n## Open-Source Designs\n\n- [CNC Coin Bottle Opener - STLFinder](https://www.stlfinder.com/3dmodels/bottle-opener-coin/)\n- [PP Coin Bottle Opener - Thingiverse](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4619403)\n- ~~[PP Coin Bottle Opener - PrusaPrinters](https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/15301-pp-coin-bottle-opener)~~", - "brief": "Create customizable Coin Bottle Openers with a Swiss 10-cent coin design. Adjust parameters for different coins. Durable in aluminum or steel. Ideal for giveaways." + "content": "In this How-To you will get access to the necessary information to create your own Coin Bottle Opener.\n\nThe opener is designed around a 10 Swiss cent piece. You can change the parameters in the Fusion file to fit the mould to your own coin.\n\nThis model may be used as free giveaways/workshop products and similar. Please get in touch with the designer before you want to sell the openers or moulds.\n\n\nUser Location: Zurich, Switzerland\n\nThe opener is designed around a 10 Swiss cent piece. \n\nChange the parameters to fit the dimensions of your coin. Important to do this very carefully. If dimensions not correct the mould can leak, as it will not close properly and a little gap will remain (if the coin is too wide), or plastic will flow on the coin, covering it (if the coin is too thin).\n\nAdapt the parameters necessary for CNC milling.\n\nAdapt the parameters to fit the CNC milling process. Please seek for advice to someone in your community that has experience, or order the mould from a [filtered] Workshop through the Bazar.\n\nMaterial: aluminium/steel\n\nMaterial of mould: aluminium. We have been using the mould for 5 years, it has scratches now, but overall works very well. With steel you should have a longer lasting mould.\n\nPlastic used: Polypropylene (works perfectly)\n\nColors: nice to have a color mix. Works great with transparent. People love black/white mix.\n\nInjection: quite easy as the mould is not too thin on any part. Mould rarely requires heating due to compact shape and no thin parts. Important to press enough as otherwise in the bottom the plastic will not adhere nicely to the mould, leaving an unfinished touch\"" } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/make-a-cyclette-shredder/README.md b/howtos/make-a-cyclette-shredder/README.md index 1c4ef544e..7ed93c3c6 100644 --- a/howtos/make-a-cyclette-shredder/README.md +++ b/howtos/make-a-cyclette-shredder/README.md @@ -1,57 +1,60 @@ --- title: Make a Cyclette Shredder slug: make-a-cyclette-shredder -description: This guide outlines the steps to construct a bicycle-powered plastic shredder. +description: In this step-by-step guide, we'll walk you through the process of building your very own plastic shredder powered by a bicycle. +The cyclette shredder is perfect for shredding small objects, like caps or bottles, but it's not recommended to run your recycle operations with it. -The device is suitable for shredding small items, such as caps or bottles, but is not intended for large-scale operations. +So the best way to use the cyclette shredder would be in educational workshops and events, as it is a fun, engaging and interactive machine. -It is particularly effective for educational workshops and events, offering a fun and interactive experience. +*For the first 6 months the build files will be available to Precious Plastic supporters ♥️ on Patreon tags: ["shredder","other machine"] category: uncategorized difficulty: Medium time: < 1 day -keywords: bicycle-powered shredder, Cyclette Shredder, plastic recycling, DIY shredder bike, educational workshops, eco-friendly projects, Torino collaboration, Patreon support, shredder machine parts, DIY bike projects +keywords: location: Moncalieri, Italy --- # Make a Cyclette Shredder ![Make a Cyclette Shredder](PfF3cljHbRw-HD-18a3d4d7794.jpg) -This guide outlines the steps to construct a bicycle-powered plastic shredder. +In this step-by-step guide, we'll walk you through the process of building your very own plastic shredder powered by a bicycle. +The cyclette shredder is perfect for shredding small objects, like caps or bottles, but it's not recommended to run your recycle operations with it. -The device is suitable for shredding small items, such as caps or bottles, but is not intended for large-scale operations. +So the best way to use the cyclette shredder would be in educational workshops and events, as it is a fun, engaging and interactive machine. -It is particularly effective for educational workshops and events, offering a fun and interactive experience. +*For the first 6 months the build files will be available to Precious Plastic supporters ♥️ on Patreon User Location: Moncalieri, Italy ## Steps ### Step 1: Become a supporter to download ♥️ -## Announcement: Cyclette Shredder Machine Release +We're thrilled to announce the release of the Cyclette Shredder machine, a collaboration between [filtered] and [filtered] Torino 🤝 ♥️ +This is a major milestone for the community! -We are pleased to announce the release of the Cyclette Shredder machine, a collaboration between [filtered] and [filtered] Torino. This marks an important achievement for our community. +Open sourcing a whole new machine doesn't come free unfortunately, the total costs was around 600€ (materials, time and transportation). For 6 months (until February 2024), the full blueprint of the machine will be available to [filtered] supporters on Patreon. After, it will be free and open source on this how-to. Forever. For anyone. -Developing a new machine involves significant expense, with total costs reaching approximately 600 euros (about $640 USD) for materials, time, and transportation. For the initial six months (until February 2024), complete blueprints will be accessible to [filtered] supporters on Patreon. Thereafter, they will be freely available on this platform. +[filtered] Supporter? +You can become a [filtered] supporter on Patreon for 7,5€ per month to support our work at patreon.com: patreon.com/one_army -You have the option to support us on Patreon with a monthly contribution of 7.5 euros (around $8 USD) at [patreon.com: patreon.com/one_army](https://www.patreon.com/one_army). Benefits include: - -- A community badge -- Early access to content -- Voting rights -- Social media acknowledgment on platforms like YouTube and Instagram -- An exclusive badge and sticker +This will also give you: +- ♥️ badge on the community +- early access (Youtube, posts, downloads) +- voting power +- social media crediting (Youtube & IG), +- A badge and sticker ![Screenshot 2023-04-20 at 15.42.16-1879ee7046d-18a0a1dea78.png](./Screenshot_2023-04-20_at_15.42.16-1879ee7046d-18a0a1dea78.png) ### Step 2: Tools needed -### Required Tools for Building a Shredder Bike +The tools needed to build your cyclette shredder are: -- **Old Exercise Bike (ATALA):** Available at second-hand stores. -- **Steel Frame Parts:** Laser-cut. -- **Plexiglass Protection and Box:** Laser-cut. -- **Bicycle Chain and Gear.** -- **Shredder Block.** -- **Additional Customization Items:** Bike pedal, knob, paint. +- Old Cyclette (ATALA): you can find one in second hand stores +- Steel Laser cutted parts for the frame +- Plexiglass laser cutted for protection and the box above +- Bicycle chain and gear +- A shredder block +- Other stuff to customize (bike pedal, bike knob, spray paint) ![01-189a5a7b777.jpg](./01-189a5a7b777.jpg) @@ -59,9 +62,9 @@ You have the option to support us on Patreon with a monthly contribution of 7.5 ### Step 3: Frame You will need to remove: -1. All plastic parts for cleaning and any others you wish to customize. -2. The metal part in the picture; it will not be used again. -3. The speed cable in the picture; it will not be used again. +1. All the plastic parts for cleaning + any other parts you would like to customize. +2. The metal part shown in the picture, and you will not use it again +3. The speed cable shown in the picture, and you will not use it again ![Captura de tela 2023-08-17 165647-18a05128a09.png](./Captura_de_tela_2023-08-17_165647-18a05128a09.png) @@ -74,15 +77,17 @@ You will need to remove: ### Step 4: Building the Cyclette Shredder -### Tutorial Video on Cyclette Shredder +We've made a video with [filtered] that talks about how [filtered] Torino makes the cyclette shredder! -We have produced a video showcasing how Torino constructs the cyclette shredder. You are encouraged to view it for detailed insights. +Give it a watch :) ### Step 5: Outcome & customizing -You may paint it according to your preference. Refer to the pictures below for inspiration. +Feel free to paint it as you like, you can get inspired by the pictures below! -Enjoy shredding. + + +Happy shredding :) ![0010f-189a5a80c4e.jpg](./0010f-189a5a80c4e.jpg) @@ -94,46 +99,4 @@ Enjoy shredding. ![0010e-189a5a85458.jpg](./0010e-189a5a85458.jpg) ## Resources -The bicycle-powered plastic shredder combines recycled exercise equipment with custom components for educational use. Below are the essential components categorized by type: - -### Hardware - -- Old exercise bike (ATALA model) -- Laser-cut steel frame parts -- Laser-cut plexiglass protection shield and collection box -- Standard bicycle chain and gear mechanism -- Industrial-grade shredder block - -### Software - -- Machine blueprints ([Patreon access](https://www.patreon.com/one_army)) - -### Tools & Customization - -- Paint supplies for surface finishing -- Replacement bicycle pedal and adjustment knob -- Basic workshop tools (unspecified in source) - -Costs for materials and development exceeded €600, with Patreon supporters receiving exclusive early access to technical documentation. The design prioritizes modular components compatible with standard exercise bikes found in Italian second-hand markets. -## References -## Articles - -- https://hscprojects.com/diy-bicycle-powered-food-waste-shredder-and-compost-maker/ -- https://www.designboom.com/technology/precious-plastic-dave-hakkens-recycling-workshop-06-02-2014/ -- https://preciousplasticplymouth.co.uk/pedal-powered-shredder/ - -## YouTube - -- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lxz3nAcZquY -- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yDGFrDOjn6A - -## Open-source Designs - -- https://community.preciousplastic.com/library/build-a-bicycle-powered-shredder -- https://community.preciousplastic.com/library/make-a-cyclette-shredder -- https://www.instructables.com/Low-Cost-Plastic-Shredder/ -- https://docs.specollective.org/introduction/our-work/research-and-development/open-source-recycling - -## Manuals - -- http://formax.com/sites/formax.com/files/FD%2087%20Plasti%20Op%20Manual.pdf \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/make-a-cyclette-shredder/config.json b/howtos/make-a-cyclette-shredder/config.json index a549b1235..4d8954f94 100644 --- a/howtos/make-a-cyclette-shredder/config.json +++ b/howtos/make-a-cyclette-shredder/config.json @@ -45,12 +45,12 @@ "alt": "Screenshot 2023-04-20 at 15.42.16-1879ee7046d-18a0a1dea78.png" } ], - "text": "## Announcement: Cyclette Shredder Machine Release\n\nWe are pleased to announce the release of the Cyclette Shredder machine, a collaboration between [filtered] and [filtered] Torino. This marks an important achievement for our community.\n\nDeveloping a new machine involves significant expense, with total costs reaching approximately 600 euros (about $640 USD) for materials, time, and transportation. For the initial six months (until February 2024), complete blueprints will be accessible to [filtered] supporters on Patreon. Thereafter, they will be freely available on this platform.\n\nYou have the option to support us on Patreon with a monthly contribution of 7.5 euros (around $8 USD) at [patreon.com: patreon.com/one_army](https://www.patreon.com/one_army). Benefits include:\n\n- A community badge\n- Early access to content\n- Voting rights\n- Social media acknowledgment on platforms like YouTube and Instagram\n- An exclusive badge and sticker" + "text": "We're thrilled to announce the release of the Cyclette Shredder machine, a collaboration between [filtered] and [filtered] Torino 🤝 ♥️ \nThis is a major milestone for the community!\n\nOpen sourcing a whole new machine doesn't come free unfortunately, the total costs was around 600€ (materials, time and transportation). For 6 months (until February 2024), the full blueprint of the machine will be available to [filtered] supporters on Patreon. After, it will be free and open source on this how-to. Forever. For anyone.\n\n[filtered] Supporter?\nYou can become a [filtered] supporter on Patreon for 7,5€ per month to support our work at patreon.com: patreon.com/one_army \n\nThis will also give you:\n- ♥️ badge on the community\n- early access (Youtube, posts, downloads)\n- voting power\n- social media crediting (Youtube & IG),\n- A badge and sticker" }, { "title": "Tools needed", "_animationKey": "unique1", - "text": "### Required Tools for Building a Shredder Bike\n\n- **Old Exercise Bike (ATALA):** Available at second-hand stores.\n- **Steel Frame Parts:** Laser-cut.\n- **Plexiglass Protection and Box:** Laser-cut.\n- **Bicycle Chain and Gear.**\n- **Shredder Block.**\n- **Additional Customization Items:** Bike pedal, knob, paint.", + "text": "The tools needed to build your cyclette shredder are:\n\n- Old Cyclette (ATALA): you can find one in second hand stores\n- Steel Laser cutted parts for the frame\n- Plexiglass laser cutted for protection and the box above\n- Bicycle chain and gear\n- A shredder block\n- Other stuff to customize (bike pedal, bike knob, spray paint)", "images": [ { "timeCreated": "2023-07-30T07:17:37.194Z", @@ -68,7 +68,7 @@ }, { "title": "Frame", - "text": "You will need to remove:\n1. All plastic parts for cleaning and any others you wish to customize.\n2. The metal part in the picture; it will not be used again.\n3. The speed cable in the picture; it will not be used again.", + "text": "You will need to remove:\n1. All the plastic parts for cleaning + any other parts you would like to customize.\n2. The metal part shown in the picture, and you will not use it again\n3. The speed cable shown in the picture, and you will not use it again ", "images": [ { "fullPath": "uploads/howtos/Cdw7mDY7MTXbvfbXi2LP/Captura de tela 2023-08-17 165647-18a05128a09.png", @@ -110,7 +110,7 @@ "_animationKey": "uniqueqlpuk" }, { - "text": "### Tutorial Video on Cyclette Shredder\n\nWe have produced a video showcasing how Torino constructs the cyclette shredder. You are encouraged to view it for detailed insights.", + "text": "We've made a video with [filtered] that talks about how [filtered] Torino makes the cyclette shredder! \n\nGive it a watch :)", "_animationKey": "unique2", "images": [], "videoUrl": "https://youtu.be/PfF3cljHbRw", @@ -156,7 +156,7 @@ "alt": "0010e-189a5a85458.jpg" } ], - "text": "You may paint it according to your preference. Refer to the pictures below for inspiration.\n\nEnjoy shredding.", + "text": "Feel free to paint it as you like, you can get inspired by the pictures below!\n\n\n\nHappy shredding :)", "_animationKey": "unique3" } ], @@ -164,7 +164,7 @@ "moderation": "accepted", "files": [], "mentions": [], - "description": "This guide outlines the steps to construct a bicycle-powered plastic shredder. \n\nThe device is suitable for shredding small items, such as caps or bottles, but is not intended for large-scale operations.\n\nIt is particularly effective for educational workshops and events, offering a fun and interactive experience.", + "description": "In this step-by-step guide, we'll walk you through the process of building your very own plastic shredder powered by a bicycle. \nThe cyclette shredder is perfect for shredding small objects, like caps or bottles, but it's not recommended to run your recycle operations with it.\n\nSo the best way to use the cyclette shredder would be in educational workshops and events, as it is a fun, engaging and interactive machine. \n\n*For the first 6 months the build files will be available to Precious Plastic supporters ♥️ on Patreon", "fileLink": "https://www.patreon.com/posts/43-cyclette-87854820", "comments": [ { @@ -313,9 +313,5 @@ "category": { "label": "uncategorized" }, - "content": "This guide outlines the steps to construct a bicycle-powered plastic shredder. \n\nThe device is suitable for shredding small items, such as caps or bottles, but is not intended for large-scale operations.\n\nIt is particularly effective for educational workshops and events, offering a fun and interactive experience.\n\n\nUser Location: Moncalieri, Italy\n\n## Announcement: Cyclette Shredder Machine Release\n\nWe are pleased to announce the release of the Cyclette Shredder machine, a collaboration between [filtered] and [filtered] Torino. This marks an important achievement for our community.\n\nDeveloping a new machine involves significant expense, with total costs reaching approximately 600 euros (about $640 USD) for materials, time, and transportation. For the initial six months (until February 2024), complete blueprints will be accessible to [filtered] supporters on Patreon. Thereafter, they will be freely available on this platform.\n\nYou have the option to support us on Patreon with a monthly contribution of 7.5 euros (around $8 USD) at [patreon.com: patreon.com/one_army](https://www.patreon.com/one_army). Benefits include:\n\n- A community badge\n- Early access to content\n- Voting rights\n- Social media acknowledgment on platforms like YouTube and Instagram\n- An exclusive badge and sticker\n\n### Required Tools for Building a Shredder Bike\n\n- **Old Exercise Bike (ATALA):** Available at second-hand stores.\n- **Steel Frame Parts:** Laser-cut.\n- **Plexiglass Protection and Box:** Laser-cut.\n- **Bicycle Chain and Gear.**\n- **Shredder Block.**\n- **Additional Customization Items:** Bike pedal, knob, paint.\n\nYou will need to remove:\n1. All plastic parts for cleaning and any others you wish to customize.\n2. The metal part in the picture; it will not be used again.\n3. The speed cable in the picture; it will not be used again.\n\n### Tutorial Video on Cyclette Shredder\n\nWe have produced a video showcasing how Torino constructs the cyclette shredder. You are encouraged to view it for detailed insights.\n\nYou may paint it according to your preference. Refer to the pictures below for inspiration.\n\nEnjoy shredding.", - "keywords": "bicycle-powered shredder, Cyclette Shredder, plastic recycling, DIY shredder bike, educational workshops, eco-friendly projects, Torino collaboration, Patreon support, shredder machine parts, DIY bike projects", - "resources": "The bicycle-powered plastic shredder combines recycled exercise equipment with custom components for educational use. Below are the essential components categorized by type:\n\n### Hardware\n\n- Old exercise bike (ATALA model)\n- Laser-cut steel frame parts\n- Laser-cut plexiglass protection shield and collection box\n- Standard bicycle chain and gear mechanism\n- Industrial-grade shredder block\n\n### Software\n\n- Machine blueprints ([Patreon access](https://www.patreon.com/one_army))\n\n### Tools & Customization\n\n- Paint supplies for surface finishing\n- Replacement bicycle pedal and adjustment knob\n- Basic workshop tools (unspecified in source)\n\nCosts for materials and development exceeded €600, with Patreon supporters receiving exclusive early access to technical documentation. The design prioritizes modular components compatible with standard exercise bikes found in Italian second-hand markets.", - "references": "## Articles\n\n- https://hscprojects.com/diy-bicycle-powered-food-waste-shredder-and-compost-maker/\n- https://www.designboom.com/technology/precious-plastic-dave-hakkens-recycling-workshop-06-02-2014/\n- https://preciousplasticplymouth.co.uk/pedal-powered-shredder/\n\n## YouTube\n\n- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lxz3nAcZquY\n- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yDGFrDOjn6A\n\n## Open-source Designs\n\n- https://community.preciousplastic.com/library/build-a-bicycle-powered-shredder\n- https://community.preciousplastic.com/library/make-a-cyclette-shredder\n- https://www.instructables.com/Low-Cost-Plastic-Shredder/\n- https://docs.specollective.org/introduction/our-work/research-and-development/open-source-recycling\n\n## Manuals\n\n- http://formax.com/sites/formax.com/files/FD%2087%20Plasti%20Op%20Manual.pdf", - "brief": "Build a fun, interactive bicycle-powered plastic shredder perfect for small items. Ideal for educational events. Find detailed blueprints and tips here." + "content": "In this step-by-step guide, we'll walk you through the process of building your very own plastic shredder powered by a bicycle. \nThe cyclette shredder is perfect for shredding small objects, like caps or bottles, but it's not recommended to run your recycle operations with it.\n\nSo the best way to use the cyclette shredder would be in educational workshops and events, as it is a fun, engaging and interactive machine. \n\n*For the first 6 months the build files will be available to Precious Plastic supporters ♥️ on Patreon\n\n\nUser Location: Moncalieri, Italy\n\nWe're thrilled to announce the release of the Cyclette Shredder machine, a collaboration between [filtered] and [filtered] Torino 🤝 ♥️ \nThis is a major milestone for the community!\n\nOpen sourcing a whole new machine doesn't come free unfortunately, the total costs was around 600€ (materials, time and transportation). For 6 months (until February 2024), the full blueprint of the machine will be available to [filtered] supporters on Patreon. After, it will be free and open source on this how-to. Forever. For anyone.\n\n[filtered] Supporter?\nYou can become a [filtered] supporter on Patreon for 7,5€ per month to support our work at patreon.com: patreon.com/one_army \n\nThis will also give you:\n- ♥️ badge on the community\n- early access (Youtube, posts, downloads)\n- voting power\n- social media crediting (Youtube & IG),\n- A badge and sticker\n\nThe tools needed to build your cyclette shredder are:\n\n- Old Cyclette (ATALA): you can find one in second hand stores\n- Steel Laser cutted parts for the frame\n- Plexiglass laser cutted for protection and the box above\n- Bicycle chain and gear\n- A shredder block\n- Other stuff to customize (bike pedal, bike knob, spray paint)\n\nYou will need to remove:\n1. All the plastic parts for cleaning + any other parts you would like to customize.\n2. The metal part shown in the picture, and you will not use it again\n3. The speed cable shown in the picture, and you will not use it again \n\nWe've made a video with [filtered] that talks about how [filtered] Torino makes the cyclette shredder! \n\nGive it a watch :)\n\nFeel free to paint it as you like, you can get inspired by the pictures below!\n\n\n\nHappy shredding :)" } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/make-a-decorative-plaster-mould-soft-plastics/README.md b/howtos/make-a-decorative-plaster-mould-soft-plastics/README.md index a178ee072..2970332e5 100644 --- a/howtos/make-a-decorative-plaster-mould-soft-plastics/README.md +++ b/howtos/make-a-decorative-plaster-mould-soft-plastics/README.md @@ -1,56 +1,57 @@ --- title: Make a decorative plaster mould (soft plastics) slug: make-a-decorative-plaster-mould-soft-plastics -description: Learn to create a decorative plaster mold for soft plastics in two steps. This guide will cover working with plaster followed by plastic. +description: Learn how to make a decorative plaster mould to use for soft plastics. There are two parts to this process. Stay tuned to learn how to work with plaster and then plastic in a decorative way. tags: ["mould","LDPE","HDPE","compression"] category: Moulds difficulty: Easy time: < 5 hours -keywords: decorative plaster mold, soft plastics, create plaster mold, plaster and plastic guide, DIY plaster mold, plaster mold materials, plaster techniques, plaster mold art, plaster Sydney, decorative wall pieces +keywords: location: Sydney, Australia --- # Make a decorative plaster mould (soft plastics) ![Make a decorative plaster mould (soft plastics)](Title_Page_for_Demo.jpg) -Learn to create a decorative plaster mold for soft plastics in two steps. This guide will cover working with plaster followed by plastic. +Learn how to make a decorative plaster mould to use for soft plastics. There are two parts to this process. Stay tuned to learn how to work with plaster and then plastic in a decorative way. User Location: Sydney, Australia ## Steps ### Step 1: Create your plaster mould -The initial task is to gather your materials: -- Scissors -- Mixing stick -- Liquid glue -- Spray adhesive -- Leafy material -- Laminated cardboard or wood -- Four laminated plywood pieces -- Polymer clay -- Dust mask -- Plaster -- Water -- Mixing containers -- Soapy water -- Brush +The first step is to collect your materials; +- scissors +- mixing stick +- liquid craft glue +- spray glue +- leafy material +- laminated cardboard or wood +- 4 laminated ply pieces +- plymer clay +- dust mask +- plaster +- water +- mixing containers +- soapy water +- brush ### Step 2: Melt your plastic -### Required Materials +What you will need; + +- soft plastic +- oven +- baking paper +- oven tray +-chemical & heatproof gloves +-resperator mask & cartridges +- plank of wood +- drill +- screws +- hanging wire -- Soft plastic -- Oven -- Baking paper -- Oven tray -- Chemical and heatproof gloves -- Respirator mask and cartridges -- Plank of wood -- Drill -- Screws -- Hanging wire ### Step 3: Happy Melting! -Plaster is an inexpensive and versatile material for making numerous molds. Here are examples of how varying colors and shapes can create exceptional wall pieces. +Plaster is a very cheap and versatile material, use it to make as many moulds as you like! Seriously......go crazy. Here are some examples of how different colours and shapes can give you a fantastic piece to and on your wall. ![DSC_8665.jpg](./DSC_8665.jpg) @@ -62,47 +63,4 @@ Plaster is an inexpensive and versatile material for making numerous molds. Here ![DSC_8662.jpg](./DSC_8662.jpg) ## Resources -To create a decorative plaster mold for soft plastics, you’ll need the following tools, hardware, and safety equipment. These items are grouped by category for clarity: - -### Tools - -- Scissors -- Mixing stick -- Brush -- Spray adhesive -- Mixing containers - -### Hardware - -- Laminated cardboard/wood -- Four laminated plywood pieces -- Polymer clay -- Plank of wood -- Drill and screws - -### Safety Equipment - -- Dust mask -- Respirator mask and cartridges -- Chemical and heatproof gloves - -This setup ensures safety and efficiency while working with plaster and heat-sensitive plastics. -## References -## Articles - -- [Pour Your Own: Making Soft Plastics - The Fisherman Magazine](https://www.thefisherman.com/article/pour-your-own-making-soft-plastics/) -- [Surprisingly easy Method to make a 1 part Plaster Mold](https://www.andygravesstructures.com/surprisingly-easy-method-to-make-a-1-part-plaster-mold/) - -## Papers - -- ~~[The Emergence of the Digital Humanities - University of South Florida](https://pure.lib.usf.edu/ws/portalfiles/portal/40730122/The+Emergence+of+the+Digital+Humanities.pdf)~~ - -## Youtube - -- [HOW TO USE PLASTER OF PARIS IN MOLDS - YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JbOVLFY9ybs) - -## Opensource Designs - -- Make a decorative plaster mould (soft plastics) - [filtered] Community -- [HW #13 – Molding + Casting – Ryan Rockett - edu.tufts.sites](https://sites.tufts.edu/ryanrockett/hw-13-molding-casting/) -- [Make a Two Part Reusable Mold Using Plaster - Instructables](https://www.instructables.com/Make-a-two-part-reusable-mold-using-plaster/) \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/make-a-decorative-plaster-mould-soft-plastics/config.json b/howtos/make-a-decorative-plaster-mould-soft-plastics/config.json index 9d37be623..ffe9c624a 100644 --- a/howtos/make-a-decorative-plaster-mould-soft-plastics/config.json +++ b/howtos/make-a-decorative-plaster-mould-soft-plastics/config.json @@ -13,12 +13,12 @@ "title": "Create your plaster mould", "images": [], "_animationKey": "unique1", - "text": "The initial task is to gather your materials:\n- Scissors\n- Mixing stick\n- Liquid glue\n- Spray adhesive\n- Leafy material\n- Laminated cardboard or wood\n- Four laminated plywood pieces\n- Polymer clay\n- Dust mask\n- Plaster\n- Water\n- Mixing containers\n- Soapy water\n- Brush" + "text": "The first step is to collect your materials;\n- scissors\n- mixing stick\n- liquid craft glue\n- spray glue \n- leafy material \n- laminated cardboard or wood\n- 4 laminated ply pieces \n- plymer clay\n- dust mask\n- plaster\n- water \n- mixing containers\n- soapy water \n- brush " }, { "images": [], "videoUrl": "https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gxmDpfxj0Og&t=1s", - "text": "### Required Materials\n\n- Soft plastic\n- Oven\n- Baking paper\n- Oven tray\n- Chemical and heatproof gloves\n- Respirator mask and cartridges\n- Plank of wood\n- Drill\n- Screws\n- Hanging wire", + "text": "What you will need;\n\n- soft plastic \n- oven\n- baking paper\n- oven tray \n-chemical & heatproof gloves\n-resperator mask & cartridges \n- plank of wood \n- drill\n- screws\n- hanging wire \n", "_animationKey": "unique2b26kp", "title": "Melt your plastic" }, @@ -63,12 +63,12 @@ ], "_animationKey": "uniquesy1kew", "title": "Happy Melting!", - "text": "Plaster is an inexpensive and versatile material for making numerous molds. Here are examples of how varying colors and shapes can create exceptional wall pieces." + "text": "Plaster is a very cheap and versatile material, use it to make as many moulds as you like! Seriously......go crazy. Here are some examples of how different colours and shapes can give you a fantastic piece to and on your wall. " } ], "creatorCountry": "au", "_modified": "2023-09-04T13:29:20.925Z", - "description": "Learn to create a decorative plaster mold for soft plastics in two steps. This guide will cover working with plaster followed by plastic.", + "description": "Learn how to make a decorative plaster mould to use for soft plastics. There are two parts to this process. Stay tuned to learn how to work with plaster and then plastic in a decorative way.", "id": "42SuViElo3QjxATg8YwB", "files": [], "tags": [ @@ -257,9 +257,5 @@ "images": [] } }, - "content": "Learn to create a decorative plaster mold for soft plastics in two steps. This guide will cover working with plaster followed by plastic.\n\n\nUser Location: Sydney, Australia\n\nThe initial task is to gather your materials:\n- Scissors\n- Mixing stick\n- Liquid glue\n- Spray adhesive\n- Leafy material\n- Laminated cardboard or wood\n- Four laminated plywood pieces\n- Polymer clay\n- Dust mask\n- Plaster\n- Water\n- Mixing containers\n- Soapy water\n- Brush\n\n### Required Materials\n\n- Soft plastic\n- Oven\n- Baking paper\n- Oven tray\n- Chemical and heatproof gloves\n- Respirator mask and cartridges\n- Plank of wood\n- Drill\n- Screws\n- Hanging wire\n\nPlaster is an inexpensive and versatile material for making numerous molds. Here are examples of how varying colors and shapes can create exceptional wall pieces.", - "keywords": "decorative plaster mold, soft plastics, create plaster mold, plaster and plastic guide, DIY plaster mold, plaster mold materials, plaster techniques, plaster mold art, plaster Sydney, decorative wall pieces", - "resources": "To create a decorative plaster mold for soft plastics, you’ll need the following tools, hardware, and safety equipment. These items are grouped by category for clarity:\n\n### Tools\n\n- Scissors\n- Mixing stick\n- Brush\n- Spray adhesive\n- Mixing containers\n\n### Hardware\n\n- Laminated cardboard/wood\n- Four laminated plywood pieces\n- Polymer clay\n- Plank of wood\n- Drill and screws\n\n### Safety Equipment\n\n- Dust mask\n- Respirator mask and cartridges\n- Chemical and heatproof gloves\n\nThis setup ensures safety and efficiency while working with plaster and heat-sensitive plastics.", - "references": "## Articles\n\n- [Pour Your Own: Making Soft Plastics - The Fisherman Magazine](https://www.thefisherman.com/article/pour-your-own-making-soft-plastics/)\n- [Surprisingly easy Method to make a 1 part Plaster Mold](https://www.andygravesstructures.com/surprisingly-easy-method-to-make-a-1-part-plaster-mold/)\n\n## Papers\n\n- ~~[The Emergence of the Digital Humanities - University of South Florida](https://pure.lib.usf.edu/ws/portalfiles/portal/40730122/The+Emergence+of+the+Digital+Humanities.pdf)~~\n\n## Youtube\n\n- [HOW TO USE PLASTER OF PARIS IN MOLDS - YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JbOVLFY9ybs)\n\n## Opensource Designs\n\n- Make a decorative plaster mould (soft plastics) - [filtered] Community\n- [HW #13 – Molding + Casting – Ryan Rockett - edu.tufts.sites](https://sites.tufts.edu/ryanrockett/hw-13-molding-casting/)\n- [Make a Two Part Reusable Mold Using Plaster - Instructables](https://www.instructables.com/Make-a-two-part-reusable-mold-using-plaster/)", - "brief": "Create decorative plaster molds for soft plastics in two steps using plaster and various materials. Learn to craft unique wall pieces efficiently." + "content": "Learn how to make a decorative plaster mould to use for soft plastics. There are two parts to this process. Stay tuned to learn how to work with plaster and then plastic in a decorative way.\n\n\nUser Location: Sydney, Australia\n\nThe first step is to collect your materials;\n- scissors\n- mixing stick\n- liquid craft glue\n- spray glue \n- leafy material \n- laminated cardboard or wood\n- 4 laminated ply pieces \n- plymer clay\n- dust mask\n- plaster\n- water \n- mixing containers\n- soapy water \n- brush \n\nWhat you will need;\n\n- soft plastic \n- oven\n- baking paper\n- oven tray \n-chemical & heatproof gloves\n-resperator mask & cartridges \n- plank of wood \n- drill\n- screws\n- hanging wire \n\n\nPlaster is a very cheap and versatile material, use it to make as many moulds as you like! Seriously......go crazy. Here are some examples of how different colours and shapes can give you a fantastic piece to and on your wall. " } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/make-a-dog-feeder/README.md b/howtos/make-a-dog-feeder/README.md index 1f4e44221..d4e83b402 100644 --- a/howtos/make-a-dog-feeder/README.md +++ b/howtos/make-a-dog-feeder/README.md @@ -1,31 +1,31 @@ --- title: Make a dog feeder slug: make-a-dog-feeder -description: A dog feeder is a box designed to let your pet eat at a comfortable height. This project involves using a compression method to create plastic sheets. +description: A dog feeder is like a box that allows your pet to eat at a comfortable height. In this case, I use a compression method to create plastic sheets tags: ["compression","collection","PS"] category: uncategorized difficulty: Medium time: < 5 hours -keywords: dog feeder, pet feeding station, polystyrene dog feeder, DIY dog feeder project, comfortable pet feeding height, plastic sheet cutting, compression method plastic, dog feeder assembly, pet feeding box, milling machine use +keywords: location: Partido de General Pueyrredon, Argentina --- # Make a dog feeder ![Make a dog feeder](C57D20D4-B6B5-4E54-9A9A-1E648848CF20-18a5c41a4aa.jpeg) -A dog feeder is a box designed to let your pet eat at a comfortable height. This project involves using a compression method to create plastic sheets. +A dog feeder is like a box that allows your pet to eat at a comfortable height. In this case, I use a compression method to create plastic sheets User Location: Partido de General Pueyrredon, Argentina ## Steps ### Step 1: Make a plastic sheets -We require three sheets: +We need 3 sheets +Top: 27 x27 cm -- Top: 10.6 x 10.6 in (27 x 27 cm) -- Front base: 10.6 x 6.7 in (27 x 17 cm) -- Lateral base: 9.8 x 6.7 in (25 x 17 cm) +Front base: 27x17 cm +Lateral base 25x17 cm -Sheet thickness: 0.4 in (1 cm) +Thickness sheet: 1 cm -Material: Polystyrene +Poliestirene ![f138fa4f-62da-43c6-b4a1-772821fd9385-18a5c433aed.JPG](./f138fa4f-62da-43c6-b4a1-772821fd9385-18a5c433aed.JPG) @@ -38,11 +38,11 @@ Material: Polystyrene ### Step 2: Plastic sheet cuts -Cut three circles, one for the plate base and two for the leg bases. +We have to cut three circles, one for the plate base, and two for the legs base. -Circles: 23 cm (9 inches) +23 cm Circles -Use a milling machine. +In this case, We use a milling machine ![75341237-17F1-406A-B913-860185CE4BD5-18a5c4488cd.jpeg](./75341237-17F1-406A-B913-860185CE4BD5-18a5c4488cd.jpeg) @@ -52,7 +52,9 @@ Use a milling machine. ### Step 3: Cut the sheets in half -Cut the sheets using a bench saw. Ensure all personal protective equipment is worn for safety. +We have to cut the shets. +Here we use a bench saw machine +Is importantly to use all a personal protection elements to work safely ![DE6FA665-0D9F-4578-83BC-34E1C80FB533-18a5c46d1d2.jpeg](./DE6FA665-0D9F-4578-83BC-34E1C80FB533-18a5c46d1d2.jpeg) @@ -62,9 +64,9 @@ Cut the sheets using a bench saw. Ensure all personal protective equipment is wo ### Step 4: Assembled,glued and screwed -# Dog Feeder Assembly Instructions +Is time to assemble the dog feeder. It is advisable glue and screw to avoid breakage -To assemble the dog feeder, ensure to both glue and screw the parts to prevent breakage. +The whole process you can find on @​​​​marsinplast ![1682D0D5-E4ED-430A-ABB9-D1A2A0294DC4-18a5c490847.png](./1682D0D5-E4ED-430A-ABB9-D1A2A0294DC4-18a5c490847.png) @@ -73,44 +75,4 @@ To assemble the dog feeder, ensure to both glue and screw the parts to prevent b ![F1A2C76B-4520-4865-BF66-98B6BF4CEE8C-18a5c4915c1.png](./F1A2C76B-4520-4865-BF66-98B6BF4CEE8C-18a5c4915c1.png) ## Resources -### Required Tools - -- Milling machine -- Bench saw -- Personal protective equipment (PPE) (safety goggles, gloves) - -### Required Software - -- None specified - -### Required Hardware - -- Polystyrene sheets: - - **Top**: 27x27 cm (10.6x10.6 in), 1 cm thick - - **Front base**: 27x17 cm (10.6x6.7 in), 1 cm thick - - **Lateral base**: 25x17 cm (9.8x6.7 in), 1 cm thick -- 23 cm (9 in) diameter circles (plate base + 2 leg bases) -- Wood screws -- Adhesive glue -## References -## Articles - -- [Polystyrene Uses, Features, Production and Definition](https://www.xometry.com/resources/materials/polystyrene/) -- [Compression Molded PET Preforms Challenge Injection Molding](https://www.ptonline.com/articles/compression-molded-pet-preforms-challenge-injection-molding) -- [Mealworms: An Unlikely Solution to Styrofoam Waste](https://www.yalescientific.org/2016/02/mealworms-an-unlikely-solution-to-styrofoam-waste-2/) - -## Papers - -- [Effects of Polystyrene Diet on the Growth and Development of Tenebrio molitor](https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC9610515/) -- [A Network of One's Own](https://research.gold.ac.uk/33997/1/DES_thesis_ChattingD_2023.pdf) - -## YouTube - -- [DIY Dog Bowl Stand | Free Easy Project Plan](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3I6o14586qk) - -## Opensource Designs - -- [Dog Feeder Station DIY](https://www.instructables.com/Dog-Feeder-Station-DIY/) -- [Flat-Pack Portable Dog Feeder](https://www.instructables.com/Flat-Pack-Dog-Feeder/) -- [How to Make a Raised Dog Feeder](https://ashadeofteal.com/how-to-make-a-raised-dog-feeder/) -- ~~[Automated Pet Food Dispenser](https://digitalcommons.calpoly.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1288\&context=eesp)~~ \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/make-a-dog-feeder/config.json b/howtos/make-a-dog-feeder/config.json index d3fbfafa5..868e284cd 100644 --- a/howtos/make-a-dog-feeder/config.json +++ b/howtos/make-a-dog-feeder/config.json @@ -44,11 +44,11 @@ } ], "title": "Make a plastic sheets", - "text": "We require three sheets:\n\n- Top: 10.6 x 10.6 in (27 x 27 cm)\n- Front base: 10.6 x 6.7 in (27 x 17 cm)\n- Lateral base: 9.8 x 6.7 in (25 x 17 cm)\n\nSheet thickness: 0.4 in (1 cm)\n\nMaterial: Polystyrene" + "text": "We need 3 sheets\nTop: 27 x27 cm\n\nFront base: 27x17 cm\nLateral base 25x17 cm\n\nThickness sheet: 1 cm\n\nPoliestirene" }, { "_animationKey": "unique2", - "text": "Cut three circles, one for the plate base and two for the leg bases.\n\nCircles: 23 cm (9 inches)\n\nUse a milling machine.", + "text": "We have to cut three circles, one for the plate base, and two for the legs base.\n\n23 cm Circles \n\nIn this case, We use a milling machine", "title": "Plastic sheet cuts", "images": [ { @@ -80,7 +80,7 @@ { "title": "Cut the sheets in half", "_animationKey": "unique3", - "text": "Cut the sheets using a bench saw. Ensure all personal protective equipment is worn for safety.", + "text": "We have to cut the shets.\nHere we use a bench saw machine\nIs importantly to use all a personal protection elements to work safely ", "images": [ { "timeCreated": "2023-09-03T18:25:49.735Z", @@ -137,7 +137,7 @@ "alt": "F1A2C76B-4520-4865-BF66-98B6BF4CEE8C-18a5c4915c1.png" } ], - "text": "# Dog Feeder Assembly Instructions\n\nTo assemble the dog feeder, ensure to both glue and screw the parts to prevent breakage." + "text": "Is time to assemble the dog feeder. It is advisable glue and screw to avoid breakage\n\nThe whole process you can find on @​​​​marsinplast" } ], "tags": [ @@ -176,7 +176,7 @@ "type": "image/jpeg", "src": "C:\\Users\\zx\\Desktop\\osr\\osr-machines\\howtos\\make-a-dog-feeder\\c57d20d4-b6b5-4e54-9a9a-1e648848cf20-18a5c41a4aa.jpeg" }, - "description": "A dog feeder is a box designed to let your pet eat at a comfortable height. This project involves using a compression method to create plastic sheets.", + "description": "A dog feeder is like a box that allows your pet to eat at a comfortable height. In this case, I use a compression method to create plastic sheets", "_createdBy": "dog-feeder", "_contentModifiedTimestamp": "2023-09-03T18:25:54.940Z", "slug": "make-a-dog-feeder", @@ -299,9 +299,5 @@ "category": { "label": "uncategorized" }, - "content": "A dog feeder is a box designed to let your pet eat at a comfortable height. This project involves using a compression method to create plastic sheets.\n\n\nUser Location: Partido de General Pueyrredon, Argentina\n\nWe require three sheets:\n\n- Top: 10.6 x 10.6 in (27 x 27 cm)\n- Front base: 10.6 x 6.7 in (27 x 17 cm)\n- Lateral base: 9.8 x 6.7 in (25 x 17 cm)\n\nSheet thickness: 0.4 in (1 cm)\n\nMaterial: Polystyrene\n\nCut three circles, one for the plate base and two for the leg bases.\n\nCircles: 23 cm (9 inches)\n\nUse a milling machine.\n\nCut the sheets using a bench saw. Ensure all personal protective equipment is worn for safety.\n\n# Dog Feeder Assembly Instructions\n\nTo assemble the dog feeder, ensure to both glue and screw the parts to prevent breakage.", - "keywords": "dog feeder, pet feeding station, polystyrene dog feeder, DIY dog feeder project, comfortable pet feeding height, plastic sheet cutting, compression method plastic, dog feeder assembly, pet feeding box, milling machine use", - "resources": "### Required Tools\n\n- Milling machine\n- Bench saw\n- Personal protective equipment (PPE) (safety goggles, gloves)\n\n### Required Software\n\n- None specified\n\n### Required Hardware\n\n- Polystyrene sheets:\n - **Top**: 27x27 cm (10.6x10.6 in), 1 cm thick\n - **Front base**: 27x17 cm (10.6x6.7 in), 1 cm thick\n - **Lateral base**: 25x17 cm (9.8x6.7 in), 1 cm thick\n- 23 cm (9 in) diameter circles (plate base + 2 leg bases)\n- Wood screws\n- Adhesive glue", - "references": "## Articles\n\n- [Polystyrene Uses, Features, Production and Definition](https://www.xometry.com/resources/materials/polystyrene/)\n- [Compression Molded PET Preforms Challenge Injection Molding](https://www.ptonline.com/articles/compression-molded-pet-preforms-challenge-injection-molding)\n- [Mealworms: An Unlikely Solution to Styrofoam Waste](https://www.yalescientific.org/2016/02/mealworms-an-unlikely-solution-to-styrofoam-waste-2/)\n\n## Papers\n\n- [Effects of Polystyrene Diet on the Growth and Development of Tenebrio molitor](https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC9610515/)\n- [A Network of One's Own](https://research.gold.ac.uk/33997/1/DES_thesis_ChattingD_2023.pdf)\n\n## YouTube\n\n- [DIY Dog Bowl Stand | Free Easy Project Plan](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3I6o14586qk)\n\n## Opensource Designs\n\n- [Dog Feeder Station DIY](https://www.instructables.com/Dog-Feeder-Station-DIY/)\n- [Flat-Pack Portable Dog Feeder](https://www.instructables.com/Flat-Pack-Dog-Feeder/)\n- [How to Make a Raised Dog Feeder](https://ashadeofteal.com/how-to-make-a-raised-dog-feeder/)\n- ~~[Automated Pet Food Dispenser](https://digitalcommons.calpoly.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1288\\&context=eesp)~~", - "brief": "Dog feeder project: assemble a comfortable-eating height box for your pet using polystyrene sheets. Ensure safety with PPE while cutting and assembling parts." + "content": "A dog feeder is like a box that allows your pet to eat at a comfortable height. In this case, I use a compression method to create plastic sheets\n\n\nUser Location: Partido de General Pueyrredon, Argentina\n\nWe need 3 sheets\nTop: 27 x27 cm\n\nFront base: 27x17 cm\nLateral base 25x17 cm\n\nThickness sheet: 1 cm\n\nPoliestirene\n\nWe have to cut three circles, one for the plate base, and two for the legs base.\n\n23 cm Circles \n\nIn this case, We use a milling machine\n\nWe have to cut the shets.\nHere we use a bench saw machine\nIs importantly to use all a personal protection elements to work safely \n\nIs time to assemble the dog feeder. It is advisable glue and screw to avoid breakage\n\nThe whole process you can find on @​​​​marsinplast" } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/make-a-face-shield-with-a-pet-bottle/README.md b/howtos/make-a-face-shield-with-a-pet-bottle/README.md index 396ee04d0..3012d91a5 100644 --- a/howtos/make-a-face-shield-with-a-pet-bottle/README.md +++ b/howtos/make-a-face-shield-with-a-pet-bottle/README.md @@ -1,27 +1,31 @@ --- title: Make a Face Shield with a PET bottle slug: make-a-face-shield-with-a-pet-bottle -description: Amid a global shortage of protective equipment, individuals with access to a 3D printer can assist by producing face shields for frontline workers. This design allows you to create face shields using a PET bottle. +description: There is a global shortage of protective equipment, not even the people are currently keeping our society running. But everyone with a 3D-Printer can help and manufacture face shields for the people who are working in the front line. With this Design you can make Faceshields with a and recycle a PET bottle. -For assembly instructions, view the video here: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6u6y6gD17rk](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6u6y6gD17rk) +We made a Video about the assembly to: + +https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6u6y6gD17rk&feature=youtu.be tags: ["product"] category: Products difficulty: Easy time: < 1 week -keywords: 3D printing face shields, PET bottle face shield, frontline workers protective gear, face shield assembly instructions, 3D print files download, Oppenheim Germany healthcare support, DIY face shield, Melt PET with soldering iron, secure elastic band face shield, PRUSA sterilization guide +keywords: location: Oppenheim, Germany --- # Make a Face Shield with a PET bottle ![Make a Face Shield with a PET bottle](Face_maske_Image_cropped.jpg) -Amid a global shortage of protective equipment, individuals with access to a 3D printer can assist by producing face shields for frontline workers. This design allows you to create face shields using a PET bottle. +There is a global shortage of protective equipment, not even the people are currently keeping our society running. But everyone with a 3D-Printer can help and manufacture face shields for the people who are working in the front line. With this Design you can make Faceshields with a and recycle a PET bottle. -For assembly instructions, view the video here: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6u6y6gD17rk](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6u6y6gD17rk) +We made a Video about the assembly to: + +https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6u6y6gD17rk&feature=youtu.be User Location: Oppenheim, Germany ## Steps ### Step 1: Print Parts -To create the shield, 3D print the top and bottom parts. Download the files for free from websites like Thiniverse or Prusa, or access them from the zipped folder provided here. +3D-Print the Top and bottom part of the shield. Download the Files for free from Thiniverse or Prusa or use the files in the zipped folder you can download here. ![Step1-Print Parts.PNG](./Step1-Print_Parts.PNG) @@ -34,14 +38,14 @@ To create the shield, 3D print the top and bottom parts. Download the files for ### Step 2: Get elastic Band -You can use a standard white elastic band, but one with buttonholes is preferable. +You can use normal white elastic band like in our Video, but elastic band with button holes works best. ![Step - get elastic Band.PNG](./Step_-_get_elastic_Band.PNG) ### Step 3: Prepare bottle -First, wash the bottle. Then, cut off the top and bottom. Finally, cut the side to open the plastic. +First of all, you need to wash out the bottle and then cut off the top and bottom parts. Finally cut along the side of the bottle so you can bend the Plastic open. ![Step 3-prapare bottle.PNG](./Step_3-prapare_bottle.PNG) @@ -54,15 +58,9 @@ First, wash the bottle. Then, cut off the top and bottom. Finally, cut the side ### Step 4: Connect 3D-Printed parts -### Instructions for Assembling the Bottle - -1. **Prepare the Bottle Base** - Open the PET bottle and insert it into the slit at the bottom. Use a soldering iron to melt the PET and printed parts at three visible interior points. - -2. **Attach the Top Part** - - Mark where to create holes in the bottle using a marker. - - Melt the holes with a soldering iron. - - After securing the top part, further melt the plastic together for enhanced durability. +Start off with the bottom part. Fold open the PET bottle and press it into the the slit. The use the soldering iron to melt the PET and the printed parts in 3 Points that are visible from the inside. + +The Next step is to attach the top part. First, use a edding to mark where to make holes in the bottle. Then use the soldering iron to melt these holes. After attaching the top part you can use the soldering iron the melt the plastic together for additional stregth. ![Step 4- Connect bottom part.PNG](./Step_4-_Connect_bottom_part.PNG) @@ -75,7 +73,7 @@ First, wash the bottle. Then, cut off the top and bottom. Finally, cut the side ### Step 5: Round off corners -Use nail scissors to round the corners at the bottom of the PET shield. Normal scissors can be used as an alternative. +Use nail scissors to round off corners at the bottom of the PET shield. If you don't have nail scissors you can also use normal scissors. ![Step 5 Use Nail sissors.PNG](./Step_5_Use_Nail_sissors.PNG) @@ -85,7 +83,7 @@ Use nail scissors to round the corners at the bottom of the PET shield. Normal s ### Step 6: Attach elastic band -Firstly, cut approximately 6-8 inches (16-20 cm) of elastic band. Securely tie the band around the holders on both sides. +First, cut about 16-20cm of elastic band. Tie the elastic band around the two holders on both sides and make sure they are secure. ![Step 6 attach Elastic Band.PNG](./Step_6_attach_Elastic_Band.PNG) @@ -95,57 +93,10 @@ Firstly, cut approximately 6-8 inches (16-20 cm) of elastic band. Securely tie t ### Step 7: Disinfect -Disinfect the inner side of the shield to remove bacteria. PRUSA provides a Sterilization Guide for further details. +Use Disinfectant and wipe over the inner side of the shield to kill off any bacteria. PRUSA has made and is constantly updating a Sterilisation Guide. Be sure to check it out for more information. ![Step 7 desinfecting.PNG](./Step_7_desinfecting.PNG) ## Resources -To create DIY face shields using the described method, the following tools and materials are required: - -### Hardware - -- 3D printer for producing top/bottom parts -- Soldering iron for melting PET/plastic components [Video Guide](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6u6y6gD17rk) -- Nail scissors or regular scissors -- PET beverage bottles (cleaned and cut) -- Elastic band (preferably with buttonholes) - -### Software/Files - -- 3D printing files from [Thingiverse](https://www.thingiverse.com/) or [Prusa](https://www.prusa3d.com/) -- Assembly [video tutorial](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6u6y6gD17rk) -- Zipped design files from tutorial source -- Prusa [Sterilization Guide](https://www.prusa3d.com/) - -### Tools/Materials - -- Permanent marker for hole marking -- Disinfectant for inner shield surface -- Plastic-cutting tools -- Hole-punching equipment (soldering iron) -- Fastening elements (buttonhole elastic recommended) -## References -## Articles - -- ~~[Turning Recycled Plastic Bottles into Face Shields for Better Protection](https://www.planetcustodon.com/recycled-plastic-bottles-to-face-shields/14003/)~~ [3] -- [Make a DIY Face Shield Out of Plastic Soda Bottles](https://jewishjournal.com/culture/home/318908/make-a-diy-face-shield-out-of-plastic-soda-bottles/) [4] -- [Can You Really Sterilize A 3D Print? Real Answers From Actual Studies](https://makezine.com/article/digital-fabrication/3d-printing-workshop/can-you-really-sterilize-a-3d-print-real-answers-from-actual-studies/) [10] - -## Papers - -- [2021 PROCEEDINGS (PDF)](https://www.4spe.org/files/resource_library_files/OTL/ANTEC2021/ANTEC2021-Fuentes.pdf) [9] -- [Sterilization and Sanitizing of 3D-Printed PPE](https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC8193021/) [12] - -## Commercial Products - -- [Face Shield - rPET Plastic - Clear](https://www.brildor.com/en/face-shield-rpet-plastic-clear) [1] -- ~~[RONA Face Shield - PET (Pack of 4)](https://www.rona.ca/en/product/rona-face-shield-pet-universal-size-pack-of-4-80575-55375139)~~ [5] - -## YouTube - -- [Face Shield Assembly Tutorial](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6u6y6gD17rk) - -## Open Source Designs - -- [Prusa Sterilization Guide for 3D-Printed Face Shields](https://tinyurl.com/twlpaub) [7] \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/make-a-face-shield-with-a-pet-bottle/config.json b/howtos/make-a-face-shield-with-a-pet-bottle/config.json index 3890bb09c..c2fec4d6f 100644 --- a/howtos/make-a-face-shield-with-a-pet-bottle/config.json +++ b/howtos/make-a-face-shield-with-a-pet-bottle/config.json @@ -8,7 +8,7 @@ "_id": "WZbV3iGK3TwV6n62WbJC", "label": "Products" }, - "description": "Amid a global shortage of protective equipment, individuals with access to a 3D printer can assist by producing face shields for frontline workers. This design allows you to create face shields using a PET bottle.\n\nFor assembly instructions, view the video here: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6u6y6gD17rk](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6u6y6gD17rk)", + "description": "There is a global shortage of protective equipment, not even the people are currently keeping our society running. But everyone with a 3D-Printer can help and manufacture face shields for the people who are working in the front line. With this Design you can make Faceshields with a and recycle a PET bottle.\n\nWe made a Video about the assembly to:\n\nhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6u6y6gD17rk&feature=youtu.be", "total_downloads": 3, "cover_image": { "size": 105958, @@ -65,7 +65,7 @@ } ], "caption": "Printed Parts", - "text": "To create the shield, 3D print the top and bottom parts. Download the files for free from websites like Thiniverse or Prusa, or access them from the zipped folder provided here.", + "text": "3D-Print the Top and bottom part of the shield. Download the Files for free from Thiniverse or Prusa or use the files in the zipped folder you can download here.", "title": "Print Parts" }, { @@ -84,7 +84,7 @@ } ], "caption": "Elastic band", - "text": "You can use a standard white elastic band, but one with buttonholes is preferable.", + "text": "You can use normal white elastic band like in our Video, but elastic band with button holes works best.", "title": "Get elastic Band", "_animationKey": "unique2" }, @@ -130,7 +130,7 @@ } ], "caption": "", - "text": "First, wash the bottle. Then, cut off the top and bottom. Finally, cut the side to open the plastic." + "text": "First of all, you need to wash out the bottle and then cut off the top and bottom parts. Finally cut along the side of the bottle so you can bend the Plastic open." }, { "_animationKey": "uniqueyj8zj", @@ -173,12 +173,12 @@ } ], "title": "Connect 3D-Printed parts", - "text": "### Instructions for Assembling the Bottle\n\n1. **Prepare the Bottle Base** \n Open the PET bottle and insert it into the slit at the bottom. Use a soldering iron to melt the PET and printed parts at three visible interior points.\n\n2. **Attach the Top Part** \n - Mark where to create holes in the bottle using a marker. \n - Melt the holes with a soldering iron. \n - After securing the top part, further melt the plastic together for enhanced durability.", + "text": "Start off with the bottom part. Fold open the PET bottle and press it into the the slit. The use the soldering iron to melt the PET and the printed parts in 3 Points that are visible from the inside.\n \nThe Next step is to attach the top part. First, use a edding to mark where to make holes in the bottle. Then use the soldering iron to melt these holes. After attaching the top part you can use the soldering iron the melt the plastic together for additional stregth. ", "caption": "Attaching parts" }, { "title": "Round off corners", - "text": "Use nail scissors to round the corners at the bottom of the PET shield. Normal scissors can be used as an alternative.", + "text": "Use nail scissors to round off corners at the bottom of the PET shield. If you don't have nail scissors you can also use normal scissors.", "_animationKey": "uniquer5qk57", "images": [ { @@ -236,7 +236,7 @@ } ], "_animationKey": "unique2qzs48", - "text": "Firstly, cut approximately 6-8 inches (16-20 cm) of elastic band. Securely tie the band around the holders on both sides.", + "text": "First, cut about 16-20cm of elastic band. Tie the elastic band around the two holders on both sides and make sure they are secure. ", "caption": "Cutting elastic band", "title": "Attach elastic band" }, @@ -257,7 +257,7 @@ } ], "_animationKey": "unique5ge697", - "text": "Disinfect the inner side of the shield to remove bacteria. PRUSA provides a Sterilization Guide for further details.", + "text": "Use Disinfectant and wipe over the inner side of the shield to kill off any bacteria. PRUSA has made and is constantly updating a Sterilisation Guide. Be sure to check it out for more information.", "title": "Disinfect" } ], @@ -448,9 +448,5 @@ "images": [] } }, - "content": "Amid a global shortage of protective equipment, individuals with access to a 3D printer can assist by producing face shields for frontline workers. This design allows you to create face shields using a PET bottle.\n\nFor assembly instructions, view the video here: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6u6y6gD17rk](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6u6y6gD17rk)\n\n\nUser Location: Oppenheim, Germany\n\nTo create the shield, 3D print the top and bottom parts. Download the files for free from websites like Thiniverse or Prusa, or access them from the zipped folder provided here.\n\nYou can use a standard white elastic band, but one with buttonholes is preferable.\n\nFirst, wash the bottle. Then, cut off the top and bottom. Finally, cut the side to open the plastic.\n\n### Instructions for Assembling the Bottle\n\n1. **Prepare the Bottle Base** \n Open the PET bottle and insert it into the slit at the bottom. Use a soldering iron to melt the PET and printed parts at three visible interior points.\n\n2. **Attach the Top Part** \n - Mark where to create holes in the bottle using a marker. \n - Melt the holes with a soldering iron. \n - After securing the top part, further melt the plastic together for enhanced durability.\n\nUse nail scissors to round the corners at the bottom of the PET shield. Normal scissors can be used as an alternative.\n\nFirstly, cut approximately 6-8 inches (16-20 cm) of elastic band. Securely tie the band around the holders on both sides.\n\nDisinfect the inner side of the shield to remove bacteria. PRUSA provides a Sterilization Guide for further details.", - "keywords": "3D printing face shields, PET bottle face shield, frontline workers protective gear, face shield assembly instructions, 3D print files download, Oppenheim Germany healthcare support, DIY face shield, Melt PET with soldering iron, secure elastic band face shield, PRUSA sterilization guide", - "resources": "To create DIY face shields using the described method, the following tools and materials are required:\n\n### Hardware\n\n- 3D printer for producing top/bottom parts\n- Soldering iron for melting PET/plastic components [Video Guide](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6u6y6gD17rk)\n- Nail scissors or regular scissors\n- PET beverage bottles (cleaned and cut)\n- Elastic band (preferably with buttonholes)\n\n### Software/Files\n\n- 3D printing files from [Thingiverse](https://www.thingiverse.com/) or [Prusa](https://www.prusa3d.com/)\n- Assembly [video tutorial](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6u6y6gD17rk)\n- Zipped design files from tutorial source\n- Prusa [Sterilization Guide](https://www.prusa3d.com/)\n\n### Tools/Materials\n\n- Permanent marker for hole marking\n- Disinfectant for inner shield surface\n- Plastic-cutting tools\n- Hole-punching equipment (soldering iron)\n- Fastening elements (buttonhole elastic recommended)", - "references": "## Articles\n\n- ~~[Turning Recycled Plastic Bottles into Face Shields for Better Protection](https://www.planetcustodon.com/recycled-plastic-bottles-to-face-shields/14003/)~~ [3]\n- [Make a DIY Face Shield Out of Plastic Soda Bottles](https://jewishjournal.com/culture/home/318908/make-a-diy-face-shield-out-of-plastic-soda-bottles/) [4]\n- [Can You Really Sterilize A 3D Print? Real Answers From Actual Studies](https://makezine.com/article/digital-fabrication/3d-printing-workshop/can-you-really-sterilize-a-3d-print-real-answers-from-actual-studies/) [10]\n\n## Papers\n\n- [2021 PROCEEDINGS (PDF)](https://www.4spe.org/files/resource_library_files/OTL/ANTEC2021/ANTEC2021-Fuentes.pdf) [9]\n- [Sterilization and Sanitizing of 3D-Printed PPE](https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC8193021/) [12]\n\n## Commercial Products\n\n- [Face Shield - rPET Plastic - Clear](https://www.brildor.com/en/face-shield-rpet-plastic-clear) [1]\n- ~~[RONA Face Shield - PET (Pack of 4)](https://www.rona.ca/en/product/rona-face-shield-pet-universal-size-pack-of-4-80575-55375139)~~ [5]\n\n## YouTube\n\n- [Face Shield Assembly Tutorial](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6u6y6gD17rk)\n\n## Open Source Designs\n\n- [Prusa Sterilization Guide for 3D-Printed Face Shields](https://tinyurl.com/twlpaub) [7]", - "brief": "Create 3D-printed face shields using PET bottles to aid frontline workers. Access design files for free and follow simple assembly steps for quick production." + "content": "There is a global shortage of protective equipment, not even the people are currently keeping our society running. But everyone with a 3D-Printer can help and manufacture face shields for the people who are working in the front line. With this Design you can make Faceshields with a and recycle a PET bottle.\n\nWe made a Video about the assembly to:\n\nhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6u6y6gD17rk&feature=youtu.be\n\n\nUser Location: Oppenheim, Germany\n\n3D-Print the Top and bottom part of the shield. Download the Files for free from Thiniverse or Prusa or use the files in the zipped folder you can download here.\n\nYou can use normal white elastic band like in our Video, but elastic band with button holes works best.\n\nFirst of all, you need to wash out the bottle and then cut off the top and bottom parts. Finally cut along the side of the bottle so you can bend the Plastic open.\n\nStart off with the bottom part. Fold open the PET bottle and press it into the the slit. The use the soldering iron to melt the PET and the printed parts in 3 Points that are visible from the inside.\n \nThe Next step is to attach the top part. First, use a edding to mark where to make holes in the bottle. Then use the soldering iron to melt these holes. After attaching the top part you can use the soldering iron the melt the plastic together for additional stregth. \n\nUse nail scissors to round off corners at the bottom of the PET shield. If you don't have nail scissors you can also use normal scissors.\n\nFirst, cut about 16-20cm of elastic band. Tie the elastic band around the two holders on both sides and make sure they are secure. \n\nUse Disinfectant and wipe over the inner side of the shield to kill off any bacteria. PRUSA has made and is constantly updating a Sterilisation Guide. Be sure to check it out for more information." } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/make-a-face-shield-without-mould/README.md b/howtos/make-a-face-shield-without-mould/README.md index bac094294..25eba8be9 100644 --- a/howtos/make-a-face-shield-without-mould/README.md +++ b/howtos/make-a-face-shield-without-mould/README.md @@ -1,27 +1,27 @@ --- title: Make a face shield (without mould) slug: make-a-face-shield-without-mould -description: We use an extruder to create the protective mask structure without molds. Cut three strips measuring 21.65 inches (55 cm), 15.75 inches (40 cm), and 11.02 inches (28 cm). For the protective screen, repurpose an old folder. +description: We use the extruder to make the structure of a protective mask, without molds. For this, three strips of 55 Cm, ​​40 Cm and 28 Cm are made. For the protective screen we have used an old folder. -[Watch the tutorial](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BTiQqPFE9vs) +https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BTiQqPFE9vs tags: ["extrusion","PP","HDPE"] category: Products difficulty: Easy time: < 1 week -keywords: extruder mask, DIY face shield, protective screen DIY, repurpose old folder, face shield tutorial, materials for face shield, homemade face shield, face shield assembly, comfortable face shield, secure face shield +keywords: location: San Javier, Spain --- # Make a face shield (without mould) ![Make a face shield (without mould)](mascara_terminada.jpeg) -We use an extruder to create the protective mask structure without molds. Cut three strips measuring 21.65 inches (55 cm), 15.75 inches (40 cm), and 11.02 inches (28 cm). For the protective screen, repurpose an old folder. +We use the extruder to make the structure of a protective mask, without molds. For this, three strips of 55 Cm, ​​40 Cm and 28 Cm are made. For the protective screen we have used an old folder. -[Watch the tutorial](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BTiQqPFE9vs) +https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BTiQqPFE9vs User Location: San Javier, Spain ## Steps ### Step 1: Beginning -We use the extruder to create strips for the mask. If you lack an extruder, utilize a bag strap or an old belt. For the screen, an old folder's transparent section will be cut and attached to the structure. + We use the extruder to make the strips that will hold the mask. In case of you don´tt have an extruder you can use the strap of a bag or an old belt. And we will use an old folder for the screen. We will cut the transparent part and then join it to the resulting structure. ![WhatsApp Image 2020-03-24 at 17.10.03.jpeg](./WhatsApp_Image_2020-03-24_at_17.10.03.jpeg) @@ -34,7 +34,7 @@ We use the extruder to create strips for the mask. If you lack an extruder, util ### Step 2: We make a strips -Create a strip measuring 55 cm (21.65 inches) in length and 1 cm (0.39 inches) in width using the extruder. Once cooled, wrap it around the head to mark the closure point. Use an old folder for the screen by cutting out its transparent part and attaching it to the structure. +We make a 55 cm long and 1 cm wide strip with the extruder, once the strip has cooled, we surround the head with it to mark where we will close it.and we will use an old folder for the screen. We will cut the transparent part and then join it to the resulting structure. ![midiendo priemera tira.jpeg](./midiendo_priemera_tira.jpeg) @@ -44,7 +44,7 @@ Create a strip measuring 55 cm (21.65 inches) in length and 1 cm (0.39 inches) i ### Step 3: We make the holes -Make two holes to thread a string and close it. We used a fishing line found on the beach. +Then we make two holes through which we pass a string to close it. In our case we have used a fishing line that we collected on the beach. ![WhatsApp Image 2020-03-24 at 17.09.59.jpeg](./WhatsApp_Image_2020-03-24_at_17.09.59.jpeg) @@ -54,7 +54,7 @@ Make two holes to thread a string and close it. We used a fishing line found on ### Step 4: We make the rest of strips -Create two strips: one measuring 15.75 inches (40 cm) and the other 11 inches (28 cm). The 15.75-inch strip will display the mask, while the 11-inch strip will help secure the mask to the head. Holes in both strips will facilitate their attachment. +We make two other strips, one 40 cm and the other 28 cm. The 40cm screen will display the mask. The 28 Cm will serve to better hold the mask to the head. The holes in the two strips will be made to join them later ![materiales.jpeg](./materiales.jpeg) @@ -64,7 +64,7 @@ Create two strips: one measuring 15.75 inches (40 cm) and the other 11 inches (2 ### Step 5: Assembly -The structure will be assembled using the three strips, and the screen will be attached with a tie or bridle. +The structure will be mounted with the three strips and then the screen will be put on with a little tie or a bridle. ![posicion de tiras.jpeg](./posicion_de_tiras.jpeg) @@ -77,68 +77,10 @@ The structure will be assembled using the three strips, and the screen will be a ### Step 6: Well done! -# Face Shield Creation Guide - -This guide will instruct you on how to create a face shield. Follow the steps carefully to ensure successful assembly. - -### Necessary Materials - -- Transparent sheet (e.g., PET plastic): 0.5 mm (0.02 in) thick -- Elastic band: 30 cm (12 in) long -- Foam strip: 1.5 cm x 3 cm (0.6 in x 1.2 in) -- Stapler or adhesive - -### Instructions - -1. **Prepare the Shield**: Cut the transparent sheet to cover the face adequately, ensuring it is 25 cm (10 in) high and 30 cm (12 in) wide. - -2. **Attach the Foam**: Secure the foam strip to the top edge of the transparent sheet. This creates a comfortable buffer against the forehead. - -3. **Secure the Elastic Band**: Attach the elastic band to the ends of the transparent sheet. Ensure it stretches comfortably around the head. - -4. **Final Assembly**: Verify all components are securely attached. Adjust the elastic band as necessary for a snug fit. - -The face shield is now ready for use. Ensure cleanliness and regular checks for wear and tear. +You made your own face shield ![mascara-terminada.png](./mascara-terminada.png) ## Resources -### Tools - -- Extruder ([tutorial video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BTiQqPFE9vs)) -- Scissors/cutting tool -- Stapler or adhesive -- Hole punch/drill -- Measuring tape/ruler - -### Materials - -- Transparent sheet (e.g., PET plastic or old folder) -- Fishing line/string -- Plastic strips (55 cm, 40 cm, 28 cm) -- Bag strap/old belt (extruder alternative) -- Elastic band (30 cm) & foam strip (optional) -## References -## Articles - -- [Printing COVID-19 Face Shields - Marcosticks](https://marcosticks.org/printing-covid-19-face-shields/) - -## Books - -- [Normalizing Face Masks - COVID-19 Pandemic Children's Book](https://guides.lib.virginia.edu/c.php?g=1164312\&p=8718414) -- [Designing the Internet of Things](https://madsg.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/Designing_the_Internet_of_Things.pdf) - -## Papers - -- [3D Printing of Face Shields During COVID-19 Pandemic](https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC7194067/) -- [How to make a protective face shield or visor - PMC](https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC7677812/) - -## YouTube - -- [3D Printed Face Shield: Fusion 360 Tutorial](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AkKighX-fHg) - -## Opensource Designs - -- [Open Source Face Shield V1.1 - NYU COVID-19 Task Force](https://open-face-website.vercel.app) -- [originlabs/origin-opensource-faceshield - GitHub](https://github.com/originlabs/origin-opensource-faceshield) \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/make-a-face-shield-without-mould/config.json b/howtos/make-a-face-shield-without-mould/config.json index 445a820be..6e6202afc 100644 --- a/howtos/make-a-face-shield-without-mould/config.json +++ b/howtos/make-a-face-shield-without-mould/config.json @@ -1,7 +1,7 @@ { "steps": [ { - "text": "We use the extruder to create strips for the mask. If you lack an extruder, utilize a bag strap or an old belt. For the screen, an old folder's transparent section will be cut and attached to the structure.", + "text": " We use the extruder to make the strips that will hold the mask. In case of you don´tt have an extruder you can use the strap of a bag or an old belt. And we will use an old folder for the screen. We will cut the transparent part and then join it to the resulting structure.", "title": "Beginning", "images": [ { @@ -72,7 +72,7 @@ } ], "_animationKey": "unique2", - "text": "Create a strip measuring 55 cm (21.65 inches) in length and 1 cm (0.39 inches) in width using the extruder. Once cooled, wrap it around the head to mark the closure point. Use an old folder for the screen by cutting out its transparent part and attaching it to the structure." + "text": "We make a 55 cm long and 1 cm wide strip with the extruder, once the strip has cooled, we surround the head with it to mark where we will close it.and we will use an old folder for the screen. We will cut the transparent part and then join it to the resulting structure." }, { "_animationKey": "unique3", @@ -103,11 +103,11 @@ "alt": "tira cerrada.jpeg" } ], - "text": "Make two holes to thread a string and close it. We used a fishing line found on the beach." + "text": "Then we make two holes through which we pass a string to close it. In our case we have used a fishing line that we collected on the beach. " }, { "_animationKey": "uniquejvzt8", - "text": "Create two strips: one measuring 15.75 inches (40 cm) and the other 11 inches (28 cm). The 15.75-inch strip will display the mask, while the 11-inch strip will help secure the mask to the head. Holes in both strips will facilitate their attachment.", + "text": "We make two other strips, one 40 cm and the other 28 cm. The 40cm screen will display the mask. The 28 Cm will serve to better hold the mask to the head. The holes in the two strips will be made to join them later", "images": [ { "size": 55557, @@ -139,7 +139,7 @@ { "_animationKey": "uniqueraw49", "title": "Assembly", - "text": "The structure will be assembled using the three strips, and the screen will be attached with a tie or bridle.", + "text": "The structure will be mounted with the three strips and then the screen will be put on with a little tie or a bridle.", "images": [ { "updated": "2020-03-29T00:04:31.884Z", @@ -180,7 +180,7 @@ ] }, { - "text": "# Face Shield Creation Guide\n\nThis guide will instruct you on how to create a face shield. Follow the steps carefully to ensure successful assembly.\n\n### Necessary Materials\n\n- Transparent sheet (e.g., PET plastic): 0.5 mm (0.02 in) thick\n- Elastic band: 30 cm (12 in) long\n- Foam strip: 1.5 cm x 3 cm (0.6 in x 1.2 in)\n- Stapler or adhesive\n\n### Instructions\n\n1. **Prepare the Shield**: Cut the transparent sheet to cover the face adequately, ensuring it is 25 cm (10 in) high and 30 cm (12 in) wide.\n\n2. **Attach the Foam**: Secure the foam strip to the top edge of the transparent sheet. This creates a comfortable buffer against the forehead.\n\n3. **Secure the Elastic Band**: Attach the elastic band to the ends of the transparent sheet. Ensure it stretches comfortably around the head.\n\n4. **Final Assembly**: Verify all components are securely attached. Adjust the elastic band as necessary for a snug fit.\n\nThe face shield is now ready for use. Ensure cleanliness and regular checks for wear and tear.", + "text": "You made your own face shield", "images": [ { "name": "mascara-terminada.png", @@ -208,7 +208,7 @@ "bock442", "sigolene" ], - "description": "We use an extruder to create the protective mask structure without molds. Cut three strips measuring 21.65 inches (55 cm), 15.75 inches (40 cm), and 11.02 inches (28 cm). For the protective screen, repurpose an old folder.\n\n[Watch the tutorial](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BTiQqPFE9vs)", + "description": "We use the extruder to make the structure of a protective mask, without molds. For this, three strips of 55 Cm, ​​40 Cm and 28 Cm are made. For the protective screen we have used an old folder.\n\nhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BTiQqPFE9vs", "fileLink": "", "slug": "make-a-face-shield-without-mould", "difficulty_level": "Easy", @@ -401,9 +401,5 @@ "urls": [] } }, - "content": "We use an extruder to create the protective mask structure without molds. Cut three strips measuring 21.65 inches (55 cm), 15.75 inches (40 cm), and 11.02 inches (28 cm). For the protective screen, repurpose an old folder.\n\n[Watch the tutorial](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BTiQqPFE9vs)\n\n\nUser Location: San Javier, Spain\n\nWe use the extruder to create strips for the mask. If you lack an extruder, utilize a bag strap or an old belt. For the screen, an old folder's transparent section will be cut and attached to the structure.\n\nCreate a strip measuring 55 cm (21.65 inches) in length and 1 cm (0.39 inches) in width using the extruder. Once cooled, wrap it around the head to mark the closure point. Use an old folder for the screen by cutting out its transparent part and attaching it to the structure.\n\nMake two holes to thread a string and close it. We used a fishing line found on the beach.\n\nCreate two strips: one measuring 15.75 inches (40 cm) and the other 11 inches (28 cm). The 15.75-inch strip will display the mask, while the 11-inch strip will help secure the mask to the head. Holes in both strips will facilitate their attachment.\n\nThe structure will be assembled using the three strips, and the screen will be attached with a tie or bridle.\n\n# Face Shield Creation Guide\n\nThis guide will instruct you on how to create a face shield. Follow the steps carefully to ensure successful assembly.\n\n### Necessary Materials\n\n- Transparent sheet (e.g., PET plastic): 0.5 mm (0.02 in) thick\n- Elastic band: 30 cm (12 in) long\n- Foam strip: 1.5 cm x 3 cm (0.6 in x 1.2 in)\n- Stapler or adhesive\n\n### Instructions\n\n1. **Prepare the Shield**: Cut the transparent sheet to cover the face adequately, ensuring it is 25 cm (10 in) high and 30 cm (12 in) wide.\n\n2. **Attach the Foam**: Secure the foam strip to the top edge of the transparent sheet. This creates a comfortable buffer against the forehead.\n\n3. **Secure the Elastic Band**: Attach the elastic band to the ends of the transparent sheet. Ensure it stretches comfortably around the head.\n\n4. **Final Assembly**: Verify all components are securely attached. Adjust the elastic band as necessary for a snug fit.\n\nThe face shield is now ready for use. Ensure cleanliness and regular checks for wear and tear.", - "keywords": "extruder mask, DIY face shield, protective screen DIY, repurpose old folder, face shield tutorial, materials for face shield, homemade face shield, face shield assembly, comfortable face shield, secure face shield", - "resources": "### Tools\n\n- Extruder ([tutorial video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BTiQqPFE9vs))\n- Scissors/cutting tool\n- Stapler or adhesive\n- Hole punch/drill\n- Measuring tape/ruler\n\n### Materials\n\n- Transparent sheet (e.g., PET plastic or old folder)\n- Fishing line/string\n- Plastic strips (55 cm, 40 cm, 28 cm)\n- Bag strap/old belt (extruder alternative)\n- Elastic band (30 cm) & foam strip (optional)", - "references": "## Articles\n\n- [Printing COVID-19 Face Shields - Marcosticks](https://marcosticks.org/printing-covid-19-face-shields/)\n\n## Books\n\n- [Normalizing Face Masks - COVID-19 Pandemic Children's Book](https://guides.lib.virginia.edu/c.php?g=1164312\\&p=8718414)\n- [Designing the Internet of Things](https://madsg.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/Designing_the_Internet_of_Things.pdf)\n\n## Papers\n\n- [3D Printing of Face Shields During COVID-19 Pandemic](https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC7194067/)\n- [How to make a protective face shield or visor - PMC](https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC7677812/)\n\n## YouTube\n\n- [3D Printed Face Shield: Fusion 360 Tutorial](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AkKighX-fHg)\n\n## Opensource Designs\n\n- [Open Source Face Shield V1.1 - NYU COVID-19 Task Force](https://open-face-website.vercel.app)\n- [originlabs/origin-opensource-faceshield - GitHub](https://github.com/originlabs/origin-opensource-faceshield)", - "brief": "DIY Face Shield Guide: Create a protective face mask using household materials. Follow our step-by-step instructions for assembly and secure fit with reusable items." + "content": "We use the extruder to make the structure of a protective mask, without molds. For this, three strips of 55 Cm, ​​40 Cm and 28 Cm are made. For the protective screen we have used an old folder.\n\nhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BTiQqPFE9vs\n\n\nUser Location: San Javier, Spain\n\n We use the extruder to make the strips that will hold the mask. In case of you don´tt have an extruder you can use the strap of a bag or an old belt. And we will use an old folder for the screen. We will cut the transparent part and then join it to the resulting structure.\n\nWe make a 55 cm long and 1 cm wide strip with the extruder, once the strip has cooled, we surround the head with it to mark where we will close it.and we will use an old folder for the screen. We will cut the transparent part and then join it to the resulting structure.\n\nThen we make two holes through which we pass a string to close it. In our case we have used a fishing line that we collected on the beach. \n\nWe make two other strips, one 40 cm and the other 28 cm. The 40cm screen will display the mask. The 28 Cm will serve to better hold the mask to the head. The holes in the two strips will be made to join them later\n\nThe structure will be mounted with the three strips and then the screen will be put on with a little tie or a bridle.\n\nYou made your own face shield" } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/make-a-jointed-tray/README.md b/howtos/make-a-jointed-tray/README.md index 283463bc7..8d721fde3 100644 --- a/howtos/make-a-jointed-tray/README.md +++ b/howtos/make-a-jointed-tray/README.md @@ -1,27 +1,23 @@ --- title: Make a Jointed Tray slug: make-a-jointed-tray -description: ### Crafting Valuable Objects with Wood Joint Techniques - -Learn to work with sheets to create valuable objects using wood joint techniques. +description: Working with sheets to make valuable objects with wood joint techniques. tags: ["sheetpress","compression","product"] category: Products difficulty: Medium time: < 1 week -keywords: Wood Joint Techniques, Crafting with Wood, Solidworks Modeling, CNC Router Precision, PLA Sheet Cutting, Accurate Wood Cuts, Endless Saw Cutting, Heat Gun Welding, Buenos Aires Woodworking, Valuable Objects Creation +keywords: location: Buenos Aires, Argentina --- # Make a Jointed Tray ![Make a Jointed Tray](Tray-3.jpg) -### Crafting Valuable Objects with Wood Joint Techniques - -Learn to work with sheets to create valuable objects using wood joint techniques. +Working with sheets to make valuable objects with wood joint techniques. User Location: Buenos Aires, Argentina ## Steps ### Step 1: 3D Modelling the product -In this instance, we used Solidworks to model and render the product, allowing us to export the needed patterns for client review and approval. +In this case we used Solidworks to model and render the product so we could export the necessary patterns and to render the product so the client could see it and approve it. ![modelado 1.jpg](./modelado_1.jpg) @@ -34,14 +30,14 @@ In this instance, we used Solidworks to model and render the product, allowing u ### Step 2: Print the patterns -Accurate cuts are essential for quality joints. +They are the key to make it accurate cuts and thereby good joints. ![Base-01.jpg](./Base-01.jpg) ### Step 3: Make sheet and make rough cuts -Once the PLA sheet is made, cut it into the five pieces needed for the product. The precision of the cuts depends on the tool used. We used an endless saw, resulting in rough cuts, which we then refined with a CNC router. +Once you make the sheet, we made it in PLA, cut it so you get the five pieces necessary to make de product. Depending on the cutting tool you could make it more or less accurate. We make them with a not so precise endless saw, so the were rough cuts and then we improved the edges with a CNC Router. ![1 y 2.jpg](./1_y_2.jpg) @@ -51,7 +47,7 @@ Once the PLA sheet is made, cut it into the five pieces needed for the product. ### Step 4: Transfer the patterns and cut -First, transfer all markings to the pieces and begin cutting. It is crucial to cut slightly less than needed initially, then test the joint. Trim more as required and repeat until achieving a perfect fit. Additionally, we used a file to smooth edges and make minor dimensional adjustments. +Fists transfer all the markings to the pieces and start cutting, the key here to cut a little less than necessary and then try the joint, cut more and repeat this process until it's a perfecto fit. Besides de cutting, we used a lime to get more soft edges and little dimensional changes. ![5 y 6.jpg](./5_y_6.jpg) @@ -64,7 +60,7 @@ First, transfer all markings to the pieces and begin cutting. It is crucial to c ### Step 5: Final assembly and welding -Once fit properly, use a heat gun and spatula to weld joints, ensuring the tray remains sturdy. +Once you have all nice and fitted, with a heat gun and a spatula we weld locally some joint so the entire tray stays always nice and sturdy. ![IMG_20200630_131031.jpg](./IMG_20200630_131031.jpg) @@ -77,9 +73,10 @@ Once fit properly, use a heat gun and spatula to weld joints, ensuring the tray ### Step 6: Finally, nice set up & photos -# Contextualize and Provide Details +Contextualise and details :) -More photos available [here](https://www.instagram.com/p/CCjX6kUAuLU). +More photos here: +instagram.com: instagram.com/p/CCjX6kUAuLU ![Final-1.jpg](./Final-1.jpg) @@ -91,42 +88,4 @@ More photos available [here](https://www.instagram.com/p/CCjX6kUAuLU). ![Final-3.jpg](./Final-3.jpg) ## Resources -### Software - -- [SolidWorks](https://www.solidworks.com/) (used for 3D modeling, rendering, and exporting patterns) [1] - -### Hardware - -- Endless saw (for initial rough cuts) -- CNC CNC Router (for precision refinement of cuts) - -### Tools - -- File (to smooth edges and adjust dimensions) -- Heat gun (for welding joints) -- Spatula (used with heat gun to fuse joints) - -Additional photos and process details are available [here](https://www.instagram.com/p/CCjX6kUAuLU). -## References -### References - -#### Articles - -- [What To Know About Wood Joints - This Old House](https://www.thisoldhouse.com/22879000/understanding-wood-joints) -- [Joinery Techniques: Mastering Traditional Wood Joints](https://fivalo.com/blogs/timber-tips/joinery-techniques-mastering-traditional-wood-joints-for-strong-and-durable-structures) -- [The Ultimate Guide to Woodworking Joints - Wagner Meters](https://www.wagnermeters.com/moisture-meters/wood-info/the-ultimate-guide-to-woodworking-joints/) -- [When Ancient Meets Modern: Your Guide To Wood Joints - RealCraft](https://realcraft.com/blogs/articles/when-ancient-meets-modern-your-guide-to-wood-joints) -- [9 Types of Wood Joints - Kreg Tool](https://learn.kregtool.com/learn/joining-wood/) -- [12 Essential Wood Joints for Your Next Project](https://www.wwgoa.com/post/best-woodworking-joints) -- ~~[Common Methods for Joining Wood - Homedepot.ca](https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/ideas-how-to/tools/joining-wood.html)~~ -- ~~[Forming the Right Connections: Types of Joinery](https://www.woodworkingnetwork.com/best-practices-guide/components-hardware-assembly/forming-right-connections-look-types-joinery)~~ - -#### Books - -- [*Complete Guide to Wood Joinery* by Scott Wynn](https://www.ribabooks.com/complete-guide-to-wood-joinery-essential-tips-and-techniques-for-woodworkers_9781565239623) - -#### Papers - -- [*Timber Joinery in Modern Construction* (MIT Thesis)](https://dspace.mit.edu/bitstream/handle/1721.1/127868/1196826370-MIT.pdf?sequence=1\&isAllowed=y) -- ~~[*Shape-Changing Wood Joints in Crafts and Industry* - TUDelft](https://research.tudelft.nl/en/publications/shape-changing-wood-joints-in-crafts-and-industry-and-their-poten)~~ -- ~~[*Shape-Changing Wood Joints* (TUDelft PDF)](https://research.tudelft.nl/files/180639759/ijwc-article-10.1163-27723194-bja10031.pdf)~~ \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/make-a-jointed-tray/config.json b/howtos/make-a-jointed-tray/config.json index e6fb2c8d9..8521aa803 100644 --- a/howtos/make-a-jointed-tray/config.json +++ b/howtos/make-a-jointed-tray/config.json @@ -6,7 +6,7 @@ "moderation": "accepted", "fileLink": "", "total_views": 301, - "description": "### Crafting Valuable Objects with Wood Joint Techniques\n\nLearn to work with sheets to create valuable objects using wood joint techniques.", + "description": "Working with sheets to make valuable objects with wood joint techniques. ", "votedUsefulBy": [ "sigolene", "kurumi_labs" @@ -33,7 +33,7 @@ "title": "Make a Jointed Tray", "steps": [ { - "text": "In this instance, we used Solidworks to model and render the product, allowing us to export the needed patterns for client review and approval.", + "text": "In this case we used Solidworks to model and render the product so we could export the necessary patterns and to render the product so the client could see it and approve it.", "images": [ { "size": 30172, @@ -77,7 +77,7 @@ }, { "title": "Print the patterns", - "text": "Accurate cuts are essential for quality joints.", + "text": "They are the key to make it accurate cuts and thereby good joints.", "images": [ { "contentType": "image/jpeg", @@ -123,7 +123,7 @@ ], "_animationKey": "unique3", "title": "Make sheet and make rough cuts", - "text": "Once the PLA sheet is made, cut it into the five pieces needed for the product. The precision of the cuts depends on the tool used. We used an endless saw, resulting in rough cuts, which we then refined with a CNC router." + "text": "Once you make the sheet, we made it in PLA, cut it so you get the five pieces necessary to make de product. Depending on the cutting tool you could make it more or less accurate. We make them with a not so precise endless saw, so the were rough cuts and then we improved the edges with a CNC Router." }, { "_animationKey": "uniquemwcl65i", @@ -165,7 +165,7 @@ "alt": "10.jpg" } ], - "text": "First, transfer all markings to the pieces and begin cutting. It is crucial to cut slightly less than needed initially, then test the joint. Trim more as required and repeat until achieving a perfect fit. Additionally, we used a file to smooth edges and make minor dimensional adjustments.", + "text": "Fists transfer all the markings to the pieces and start cutting, the key here to cut a little less than necessary and then try the joint, cut more and repeat this process until it's a perfecto fit. Besides de cutting, we used a lime to get more soft edges and little dimensional changes.", "title": "Transfer the patterns and cut" }, { @@ -209,7 +209,7 @@ ], "_animationKey": "uniqueskj7em", "title": "Final assembly and welding", - "text": "Once fit properly, use a heat gun and spatula to weld joints, ensuring the tray remains sturdy." + "text": "Once you have all nice and fitted, with a heat gun and a spatula we weld locally some joint so the entire tray stays always nice and sturdy. " }, { "images": [ @@ -251,7 +251,7 @@ } ], "_animationKey": "uniquenlk15m", - "text": "# Contextualize and Provide Details\n\nMore photos available [here](https://www.instagram.com/p/CCjX6kUAuLU).", + "text": "Contextualise and details :)\n\nMore photos here:\ninstagram.com: instagram.com/p/CCjX6kUAuLU", "title": "Finally, nice set up & photos" } ], @@ -405,9 +405,5 @@ "images": [] } }, - "content": "### Crafting Valuable Objects with Wood Joint Techniques\n\nLearn to work with sheets to create valuable objects using wood joint techniques.\n\n\nUser Location: Buenos Aires, Argentina\n\nIn this instance, we used Solidworks to model and render the product, allowing us to export the needed patterns for client review and approval.\n\nAccurate cuts are essential for quality joints.\n\nOnce the PLA sheet is made, cut it into the five pieces needed for the product. The precision of the cuts depends on the tool used. We used an endless saw, resulting in rough cuts, which we then refined with a CNC router.\n\nFirst, transfer all markings to the pieces and begin cutting. It is crucial to cut slightly less than needed initially, then test the joint. Trim more as required and repeat until achieving a perfect fit. Additionally, we used a file to smooth edges and make minor dimensional adjustments.\n\nOnce fit properly, use a heat gun and spatula to weld joints, ensuring the tray remains sturdy.\n\n# Contextualize and Provide Details\n\nMore photos available [here](https://www.instagram.com/p/CCjX6kUAuLU).", - "keywords": "Wood Joint Techniques, Crafting with Wood, Solidworks Modeling, CNC Router Precision, PLA Sheet Cutting, Accurate Wood Cuts, Endless Saw Cutting, Heat Gun Welding, Buenos Aires Woodworking, Valuable Objects Creation", - "resources": "### Software\n\n- [SolidWorks](https://www.solidworks.com/) (used for 3D modeling, rendering, and exporting patterns) [1]\n\n### Hardware\n\n- Endless saw (for initial rough cuts)\n- CNC CNC Router (for precision refinement of cuts)\n\n### Tools\n\n- File (to smooth edges and adjust dimensions)\n- Heat gun (for welding joints)\n- Spatula (used with heat gun to fuse joints)\n\nAdditional photos and process details are available [here](https://www.instagram.com/p/CCjX6kUAuLU).", - "references": "### References\n\n#### Articles\n\n- [What To Know About Wood Joints - This Old House](https://www.thisoldhouse.com/22879000/understanding-wood-joints)\n- [Joinery Techniques: Mastering Traditional Wood Joints](https://fivalo.com/blogs/timber-tips/joinery-techniques-mastering-traditional-wood-joints-for-strong-and-durable-structures)\n- [The Ultimate Guide to Woodworking Joints - Wagner Meters](https://www.wagnermeters.com/moisture-meters/wood-info/the-ultimate-guide-to-woodworking-joints/)\n- [When Ancient Meets Modern: Your Guide To Wood Joints - RealCraft](https://realcraft.com/blogs/articles/when-ancient-meets-modern-your-guide-to-wood-joints)\n- [9 Types of Wood Joints - Kreg Tool](https://learn.kregtool.com/learn/joining-wood/)\n- [12 Essential Wood Joints for Your Next Project](https://www.wwgoa.com/post/best-woodworking-joints)\n- ~~[Common Methods for Joining Wood - Homedepot.ca](https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/ideas-how-to/tools/joining-wood.html)~~\n- ~~[Forming the Right Connections: Types of Joinery](https://www.woodworkingnetwork.com/best-practices-guide/components-hardware-assembly/forming-right-connections-look-types-joinery)~~\n\n#### Books\n\n- [*Complete Guide to Wood Joinery* by Scott Wynn](https://www.ribabooks.com/complete-guide-to-wood-joinery-essential-tips-and-techniques-for-woodworkers_9781565239623)\n\n#### Papers\n\n- [*Timber Joinery in Modern Construction* (MIT Thesis)](https://dspace.mit.edu/bitstream/handle/1721.1/127868/1196826370-MIT.pdf?sequence=1\\&isAllowed=y)\n- ~~[*Shape-Changing Wood Joints in Crafts and Industry* - TUDelft](https://research.tudelft.nl/en/publications/shape-changing-wood-joints-in-crafts-and-industry-and-their-poten)~~\n- ~~[*Shape-Changing Wood Joints* (TUDelft PDF)](https://research.tudelft.nl/files/180639759/ijwc-article-10.1163-27723194-bja10031.pdf)~~", - "brief": "Learn to create valuable objects with precise wood joint techniques using Solidworks for design and CNC routers for refined cuts. Achieve perfect fits and sturdy builds." + "content": "Working with sheets to make valuable objects with wood joint techniques. \n\n\nUser Location: Buenos Aires, Argentina\n\nIn this case we used Solidworks to model and render the product so we could export the necessary patterns and to render the product so the client could see it and approve it.\n\nThey are the key to make it accurate cuts and thereby good joints.\n\nOnce you make the sheet, we made it in PLA, cut it so you get the five pieces necessary to make de product. Depending on the cutting tool you could make it more or less accurate. We make them with a not so precise endless saw, so the were rough cuts and then we improved the edges with a CNC Router.\n\nFists transfer all the markings to the pieces and start cutting, the key here to cut a little less than necessary and then try the joint, cut more and repeat this process until it's a perfecto fit. Besides de cutting, we used a lime to get more soft edges and little dimensional changes.\n\nOnce you have all nice and fitted, with a heat gun and a spatula we weld locally some joint so the entire tray stays always nice and sturdy. \n\nContextualise and details :)\n\nMore photos here:\ninstagram.com: instagram.com/p/CCjX6kUAuLU" } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/make-a-pee-pee-urinal/README.md b/howtos/make-a-pee-pee-urinal/README.md index 567f80331..0a63a3069 100644 --- a/howtos/make-a-pee-pee-urinal/README.md +++ b/howtos/make-a-pee-pee-urinal/README.md @@ -1,35 +1,46 @@ --- title: Make a Pee Pee Urinal slug: make-a-pee-pee-urinal -description: This flat pack design serves as a utility for streets. The urinal addresses the need for sanitary facilities in areas like parks where public urination is an issue. +description: I am a flat pack design utility add on to the streets. The urinal is a quick solution to the need of urinal at parks and streets spots that has become a urinating spot, + +In the attached folder you will find: + +3D File (.skp) + +Laser cut files (.dxf) + +Blueprints (.pdf) + +Manual -Included in the folder: -- 3D File (.skp) -- Laser cut files (.dxf) -- Blueprints (.pdf) -- Manual tags: ["PP","sheetpress","product","HDPE","shredder"] category: Products difficulty: Medium time: < 5 hours -keywords: flat pack design, street utility urinal, sanitary facility, public park solutions, laser cut files, 3D file, blueprints, CNC machine format, AutoCAD compatible, assembly instructions +keywords: location: --- # Make a Pee Pee Urinal ![Make a Pee Pee Urinal](gui-189651e9dcb.JPG) -This flat pack design serves as a utility for streets. The urinal addresses the need for sanitary facilities in areas like parks where public urination is an issue. +I am a flat pack design utility add on to the streets. The urinal is a quick solution to the need of urinal at parks and streets spots that has become a urinating spot, + +In the attached folder you will find: + +3D File (.skp) + +Laser cut files (.dxf) + +Blueprints (.pdf) + +Manual -Included in the folder: -- 3D File (.skp) -- Laser cut files (.dxf) -- Blueprints (.pdf) -- Manual ## Steps ### Step 1: DownTake sheet of 12mm thickness -Use a sheet with a thickness of 12 mm (0.47 inches). For precise grooving, prepare two sheets, each measuring 4 ft x 4 ft (1.22 m x 1.22 m). If your sheet thickness differs, adjust the grooves in the CAD file accordingly. +Take sheet of 12mm thickness +The sheet has to be of 12mm for the exact grooving composition, 2 sheets of size 4ftx 4ft. If your sheet thickness varies then 12mm please adjust the grooves in cad file ![download (1)-1896514beec.jpg](./download_1-1896514beec.jpg) @@ -42,81 +53,25 @@ Use a sheet with a thickness of 12 mm (0.47 inches). For precise grooving, prepa ### Step 2: Get cad file in CNC machine -Convert the CAD file into a CNC machine-compatible format. The file can be opened in AutoCAD or CDR. Measurements are in feet and inches. +The cad file is supposed to be converted in cnc machine file format and let the machine do its job, The file can be accessed in auto CAD or CDR. The metric systemm of file is Feet and Inches. + ![nknkj-18964ddcc87.PNG](./nknkj-18964ddcc87.PNG) ### Step 3: Buff the edges -To proceed, clean the edges and buff them for additional smoothness. Ensure that the grooves remain consistent with the sizes specified in the manual throughout. +Next step is to clean the edges and buff it for further smoothness, The grooves are to be maintained the same sizes mentioned in the manual through out ![maxresdefault-1896517e103.jpg](./maxresdefault-1896517e103.jpg) ### Step 4: Assemble the product -### Assembly Instructions for the Product - -Follow the assembly instructions in the document provided. Due to the delicate nature of the sheets, two to three people may be needed to prevent breakage at the corners. +Assemble the product as mentioned in the following document. It may take 2-3 people to assemble the product because the sheets are delicate and often intent to break at corners if not handled properly. ![ju-189650496c6.JPG](./ju-189650496c6.JPG) ## Resources -## Software - -- [AutoCAD](https://www.autodesk.com/products/autocad) -- [CorelDRAW](https://www.coreldraw.com) -- [Vectric Aspire](https://www.vectric.com/products/aspire) (CNC file conversion) - -## Hardware - -- [CNC Machine](https://www.shopsabre.com) -- Laser cutter (e.g., [Epilog Laser](https://www.epiloglaser.com)) -- 12 mm thick plywood/MDF sheets (4'x4' size) -- Calipers (for groove measurements) -- Edge buffing tools (e.g., rotary sanders) - -## Tools - -- [Safety goggles](https://www.3m.com) -- Clamps (for assembly stability) -- Measuring tape -- Deburring tools (for edge cleaning) -- Work gloves -## References -## References - -### Opensource Designs - -- [Interactive Urinal (Pinect Open Source)](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Interactive_urinal) -- [Urinal Splash Danger Meter](https://www.instructables.com/Urinal-Splash-Danger-Meter/) - -### Youtube Tutorials - -- [Laser Cutting EVA Foam with Ortur Laser](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p08A4afdlhM) -- [Urinal Installation Tutorial](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LgZBAwf2l3M) - -### CAD Resources - -- [Urinal AutoCAD Blocks](https://cad-block.com/59-urinals.html) -- [Urinal DWG Models](https://dwgmodels.com/631-urinal-all-views.html) - -### Technical Guidelines - -- [Public Toilet Construction Guidelines (PDF)](https://washmatters.wateraid.org/sites/g/files/jkxoof256/files/technical-guidelines-for-construction-of-institutional-and-public-toilets---drawings.pdf) - -### CNC Resources - -- [CNC Conversion Kits](https://www.cncconversionplus.com) - -### Product Specifications - -- [SSS Sea Shell 3D Flat Urinal Screens](https://store.triple-s.com/SSS-Sea-Shell-Flat-Urinal-Screens-Apple-Cinnamon) -- [Male POPPA® Urinal](https://clhgroup.co.uk/patient-care/incontinence/bedpans-urinals-pulp-products/male-poppa-for-urine-pop-up-urinal) - -### Installation Manuals - -- [TOTO Urinal Installation Manual (PDF)](https://www.totousa.com/filemanager_uploads/product_assets/InstallationManual/0GU050_UT104EV_UT105UV_IM.pdf) -- [Urinal Installation Guide](https://www.allroundplumber.nl/installation-services/urinal-installation-need-know-tip/) \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/make-a-pee-pee-urinal/config.json b/howtos/make-a-pee-pee-urinal/config.json index 87aac9874..b2b3dc824 100644 --- a/howtos/make-a-pee-pee-urinal/config.json +++ b/howtos/make-a-pee-pee-urinal/config.json @@ -26,7 +26,7 @@ { "title": "DownTake sheet of 12mm thickness", "_animationKey": "unique1", - "text": "Use a sheet with a thickness of 12 mm (0.47 inches). For precise grooving, prepare two sheets, each measuring 4 ft x 4 ft (1.22 m x 1.22 m). If your sheet thickness differs, adjust the grooves in the CAD file accordingly.", + "text": "Take sheet of 12mm thickness\nThe sheet has to be of 12mm for the exact grooving composition, 2 sheets of size 4ftx 4ft. If your sheet thickness varies then 12mm please adjust the grooves in cad file", "images": [ { "downloadUrl": "https://firebasestorage.googleapis.com/v0/b/onearmyworld.appspot.com/o/uploads%2Fhowtos%2FUPFyP6scsttGNnJ4WszG%2Fdownload%20(1)-1896514beec.jpg?alt=media&token=a5a7b770-bd4c-4274-aeb5-a98bc710e154", @@ -67,7 +67,7 @@ ] }, { - "text": "Convert the CAD file into a CNC machine-compatible format. The file can be opened in AutoCAD or CDR. Measurements are in feet and inches.", + "text": "The cad file is supposed to be converted in cnc machine file format and let the machine do its job, The file can be accessed in auto CAD or CDR. The metric systemm of file is Feet and Inches. \n", "_animationKey": "unique2", "title": "Get cad file in CNC machine", "images": [ @@ -87,7 +87,7 @@ }, { "_animationKey": "unique3", - "text": "To proceed, clean the edges and buff them for additional smoothness. Ensure that the grooves remain consistent with the sizes specified in the manual throughout.", + "text": "Next step is to clean the edges and buff it for further smoothness, The grooves are to be maintained the same sizes mentioned in the manual through out ", "images": [ { "fullPath": "uploads/howtos/UPFyP6scsttGNnJ4WszG/maxresdefault-1896517e103.jpg", @@ -119,7 +119,7 @@ "alt": "ju-189650496c6.JPG" } ], - "text": "### Assembly Instructions for the Product\n\nFollow the assembly instructions in the document provided. Due to the delicate nature of the sheets, two to three people may be needed to prevent breakage at the corners.", + "text": "Assemble the product as mentioned in the following document. It may take 2-3 people to assemble the product because the sheets are delicate and often intent to break at corners if not handled properly.", "_animationKey": "uniquessouja", "title": "Assemble the product" } @@ -137,7 +137,7 @@ "label": "Products", "_id": "WZbV3iGK3TwV6n62WbJC" }, - "description": "This flat pack design serves as a utility for streets. The urinal addresses the need for sanitary facilities in areas like parks where public urination is an issue.\n\nIncluded in the folder:\n\n- 3D File (.skp)\n- Laser cut files (.dxf)\n- Blueprints (.pdf)\n- Manual", + "description": "I am a flat pack design utility add on to the streets. The urinal is a quick solution to the need of urinal at parks and streets spots that has become a urinating spot, \n\nIn the attached folder you will find:\n\n3D File (.skp)\n\nLaser cut files (.dxf)\n\nBlueprints (.pdf)\n \nManual\n\n", "creatorCountry": "", "difficulty_level": "Medium", "previousSlugs": [ @@ -154,9 +154,5 @@ "total_views": 194, "title": "Make a Pee Pee Urinal", "_createdBy": "basic-shit", - "content": "This flat pack design serves as a utility for streets. The urinal addresses the need for sanitary facilities in areas like parks where public urination is an issue.\n\nIncluded in the folder:\n\n- 3D File (.skp)\n- Laser cut files (.dxf)\n- Blueprints (.pdf)\n- Manual\n\nUse a sheet with a thickness of 12 mm (0.47 inches). For precise grooving, prepare two sheets, each measuring 4 ft x 4 ft (1.22 m x 1.22 m). If your sheet thickness differs, adjust the grooves in the CAD file accordingly.\n\nConvert the CAD file into a CNC machine-compatible format. The file can be opened in AutoCAD or CDR. Measurements are in feet and inches.\n\nTo proceed, clean the edges and buff them for additional smoothness. Ensure that the grooves remain consistent with the sizes specified in the manual throughout.\n\n### Assembly Instructions for the Product\n\nFollow the assembly instructions in the document provided. Due to the delicate nature of the sheets, two to three people may be needed to prevent breakage at the corners.", - "keywords": "flat pack design, street utility urinal, sanitary facility, public park solutions, laser cut files, 3D file, blueprints, CNC machine format, AutoCAD compatible, assembly instructions", - "resources": "## Software\n\n- [AutoCAD](https://www.autodesk.com/products/autocad)\n- [CorelDRAW](https://www.coreldraw.com)\n- [Vectric Aspire](https://www.vectric.com/products/aspire) (CNC file conversion)\n\n## Hardware\n\n- [CNC Machine](https://www.shopsabre.com)\n- Laser cutter (e.g., [Epilog Laser](https://www.epiloglaser.com))\n- 12 mm thick plywood/MDF sheets (4'x4' size)\n- Calipers (for groove measurements)\n- Edge buffing tools (e.g., rotary sanders)\n\n## Tools\n\n- [Safety goggles](https://www.3m.com)\n- Clamps (for assembly stability)\n- Measuring tape\n- Deburring tools (for edge cleaning)\n- Work gloves", - "references": "## References\n\n### Opensource Designs\n\n- [Interactive Urinal (Pinect Open Source)](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Interactive_urinal)\n- [Urinal Splash Danger Meter](https://www.instructables.com/Urinal-Splash-Danger-Meter/)\n\n### Youtube Tutorials\n\n- [Laser Cutting EVA Foam with Ortur Laser](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p08A4afdlhM)\n- [Urinal Installation Tutorial](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LgZBAwf2l3M)\n\n### CAD Resources\n\n- [Urinal AutoCAD Blocks](https://cad-block.com/59-urinals.html)\n- [Urinal DWG Models](https://dwgmodels.com/631-urinal-all-views.html)\n\n### Technical Guidelines\n\n- [Public Toilet Construction Guidelines (PDF)](https://washmatters.wateraid.org/sites/g/files/jkxoof256/files/technical-guidelines-for-construction-of-institutional-and-public-toilets---drawings.pdf)\n\n### CNC Resources\n\n- [CNC Conversion Kits](https://www.cncconversionplus.com)\n\n### Product Specifications\n\n- [SSS Sea Shell 3D Flat Urinal Screens](https://store.triple-s.com/SSS-Sea-Shell-Flat-Urinal-Screens-Apple-Cinnamon)\n- [Male POPPA® Urinal](https://clhgroup.co.uk/patient-care/incontinence/bedpans-urinals-pulp-products/male-poppa-for-urine-pop-up-urinal)\n\n### Installation Manuals\n\n- [TOTO Urinal Installation Manual (PDF)](https://www.totousa.com/filemanager_uploads/product_assets/InstallationManual/0GU050_UT104EV_UT105UV_IM.pdf)\n- [Urinal Installation Guide](https://www.allroundplumber.nl/installation-services/urinal-installation-need-know-tip/)", - "brief": "Flat pack urinal design for sanitary street use. Includes 3D file, laser cut files, blueprints, and manual for assembly. Ideal for parks to prevent public urination." + "content": "I am a flat pack design utility add on to the streets. The urinal is a quick solution to the need of urinal at parks and streets spots that has become a urinating spot, \n\nIn the attached folder you will find:\n\n3D File (.skp)\n\nLaser cut files (.dxf)\n\nBlueprints (.pdf)\n \nManual\n\n\n\nTake sheet of 12mm thickness\nThe sheet has to be of 12mm for the exact grooving composition, 2 sheets of size 4ftx 4ft. If your sheet thickness varies then 12mm please adjust the grooves in cad file\n\nThe cad file is supposed to be converted in cnc machine file format and let the machine do its job, The file can be accessed in auto CAD or CDR. The metric systemm of file is Feet and Inches. \n\n\nNext step is to clean the edges and buff it for further smoothness, The grooves are to be maintained the same sizes mentioned in the manual through out \n\nAssemble the product as mentioned in the following document. It may take 2-3 people to assemble the product because the sheets are delicate and often intent to break at corners if not handled properly." } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/make-a-recycling-bin-64007/README.md b/howtos/make-a-recycling-bin-64007/README.md index 5e904c073..e5205b530 100644 --- a/howtos/make-a-recycling-bin-64007/README.md +++ b/howtos/make-a-recycling-bin-64007/README.md @@ -1,36 +1,32 @@ --- title: Make a recycling bin slug: make-a-recycling-bin-64007 -description: # Creating a Recycling Bin with Reused Plastic Panels - -Construct a recycling bin using reused plastic panels and standard aluminum tubes for a straightforward approach. +description: Making a plastic recycling bin with recycled plastic panels. This is an easier method with standard aluminum tubes. tags: ["HDPE","PP","sheetpress"] category: Products difficulty: Medium time: < 1 week -keywords: recycling bin, reused plastic panels, aluminum tubes, Hong Kong recycling, DIY recycling project, polypropylene sheets, CNC milling, eco-friendly bin construction, sustainable materials, recycling bin assembly +keywords: location: Hong Kong, Hong Kong --- # Make a recycling bin ![Make a recycling bin](DSCF5653-18bc6d703cf.jpg) -# Creating a Recycling Bin with Reused Plastic Panels - -Construct a recycling bin using reused plastic panels and standard aluminum tubes for a straightforward approach. +Making a plastic recycling bin with recycled plastic panels. This is an easier method with standard aluminum tubes. User Location: Hong Kong, Hong Kong ## Steps ### Step 1: Prepare materials -Prepare materials as per the bin's dimensions and design. +Prepare material according to the size and design of the recycling bin. -For this project: +In our case: -- 30x30 mm (1.18x1.18 in) aluminum tube, 935 mm (36.81 in), x8 -- 30x30 mm (1.18x1.18 in) aluminum tube, 316 mm (12.44 in), x8 -- 30x30 mm (1.18x1.18 in) aluminum tube, 300 mm (11.81 in), x12 -- Corner fixing clips, x50 -- Corner fixing plates, x50 -- Legs, x8 +- 30x30 alumimum tube 935mm x8 +- 30x30 alumimum tube 316mm x8 +- 30x30 alumimum tube 300mm x12 +- Corner fixing clips x50 +- Corner fixing plate x50 +- legs x8 ![IMG_6961-18bc6db5050.jpg](./IMG_6961-18bc6db5050.jpg) @@ -40,7 +36,7 @@ For this project: ### Step 2: Assemble the frame -Assemble the frame using corner fixing clips, leaving corners free for panel installation later. +Assemble the frame, with the corner fixing clips and avoiding the corners for mounting the panels afterward. ![IMG_6962-18bc6e67c98.JPG](./IMG_6962-18bc6e67c98.JPG) @@ -50,9 +46,9 @@ Assemble the frame using corner fixing clips, leaving corners free for panel ins ### Step 3: Mount the panels -After completing the frame, attach the panel using screws and corner fixing plates. +After the frame is done, fix the panel onto the frame with screws and corner fixing plate. -We use 12 mm (0.47 inch) thick polypropylene sheets and employ CNC milling to achieve the required shapes. +We use 12mm thick PP sheets and use CNC milling to cut into the right shapes. ![IMG_6972-18bc6ed192e.JPG](./IMG_6972-18bc6ed192e.JPG) @@ -65,9 +61,9 @@ We use 12 mm (0.47 inch) thick polypropylene sheets and employ CNC milling to ac ### Step 4: Legs and doors -Attach legs to the bin's bottom for stability on uneven floors. +Add legs to the bottom of the bin for uneven floor. -Finally, install the doors with hinges and add locks or magnets to secure them. +Lastly, assemble the doors with door hinges, and add locks or magnets to keep them close. ![IMG_7009-18bc6f0b357.jpg](./IMG_7009-18bc6f0b357.jpg) @@ -79,51 +75,4 @@ Finally, install the doors with hinges and add locks or magnets to secure them. ![IMG_7035-18bc6f13e12.jpg](./IMG_7035-18bc6f13e12.jpg) ## Resources -### Hardware - -- 30×30mm aluminum tubes (various lengths) -- Polypropylene sheets (12mm thick) -- Corner fixing clips and plates (x100 total) -- Adjustable legs (x8) -- Door hinges and magnetic locks - -### Tools - -- CNC milling machine (for panel shaping) -- Electric screwdriver/drill -- Measuring tape -- Wrench set -- Level tool - -### Software - -- CAD software (for panel design) -- CAM software (for CNC programming) -- Project planning templates - -All materials listed are standard construction components available at Hong Kong hardware stores like Hung Fai Tong or FixShop. CNC services can be sourced from local prototyping workshops like ProtoTech HK. -## References -## References - -### Articles - -- [The Plastic Recycling Process - Association of Plastic Recyclers (APR)](https://plasticsrecycling.org/how-recycling-works/the-plastic-recycling-process/) -- [Design for Recycling Guidelines - RecyClass](https://recyclass.eu/recyclability/design-for-recycling-guidelines/) -- [How To: DIY Pantry Recycling Center Makeover - ManMadeDIY](https://www.manmadediy.com/1255-how-to-diy-pantry-recycling-center-makeover/) -- [DeepStream Designs’ Sustainable Recycling Bins](https://sustainabledesignprinciples.com/tag/3form-recycling-bins/) -- [CNC Machining Techniques for Polypropylene Material](https://www.want.net/how-to-machine-polypropylene-material-a-complete-guide-for-cnc-fabrication/) -- [Custom Polypropylene Machining Considerations](https://machining-quote.com/polypropylene-machining/) - -### YouTube - -- [SAVE your recycling bins from the DUMP](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9yiADlR28z8) -- [How to Make Recycled BEAMS from Plastic Waste at Home](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=avdOxtKywbk) - -### Open-source Designs - -- [$50 Plastic Shredder / Grinder / Recycler - Instructables](https://www.instructables.com/50-Plastic-Shredder-Grinder-Recycler/) -- [3Form Recycling Bin Design - Sustainable Design](https://sustainabledesignprinciples.com/tag/3form-recycling-bins/) - -### Papers - -- [Plastics Recycling: Challenges and Opportunities - PMC](https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC2873020/) \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/make-a-recycling-bin-64007/config.json b/howtos/make-a-recycling-bin-64007/config.json index 4db8498de..f057d4ac2 100644 --- a/howtos/make-a-recycling-bin-64007/config.json +++ b/howtos/make-a-recycling-bin-64007/config.json @@ -38,7 +38,7 @@ { "title": "Prepare materials", "_animationKey": "unique1", - "text": "Prepare materials as per the bin's dimensions and design.\n\nFor this project:\n\n- 30x30 mm (1.18x1.18 in) aluminum tube, 935 mm (36.81 in), x8\n- 30x30 mm (1.18x1.18 in) aluminum tube, 316 mm (12.44 in), x8\n- 30x30 mm (1.18x1.18 in) aluminum tube, 300 mm (11.81 in), x12\n- Corner fixing clips, x50\n- Corner fixing plates, x50\n- Legs, x8", + "text": "Prepare material according to the size and design of the recycling bin.\n\nIn our case:\n\n- 30x30 alumimum tube 935mm x8\n- 30x30 alumimum tube 316mm x8\n- 30x30 alumimum tube 300mm x12\n- Corner fixing clips x50\n- Corner fixing plate x50\n- legs x8", "images": [ { "name": "IMG_6961-18bc6db5050.jpg", @@ -67,7 +67,7 @@ ] }, { - "text": "Assemble the frame using corner fixing clips, leaving corners free for panel installation later.", + "text": "Assemble the frame, with the corner fixing clips and avoiding the corners for mounting the panels afterward.", "images": [ { "name": "IMG_6962-18bc6e67c98.JPG", @@ -100,7 +100,7 @@ { "_animationKey": "unique3", "title": "Mount the panels", - "text": "After completing the frame, attach the panel using screws and corner fixing plates.\n\nWe use 12 mm (0.47 inch) thick polypropylene sheets and employ CNC milling to achieve the required shapes.", + "text": "After the frame is done, fix the panel onto the frame with screws and corner fixing plate.\n\nWe use 12mm thick PP sheets and use CNC milling to cut into the right shapes.", "images": [ { "size": 183449, @@ -142,7 +142,7 @@ }, { "title": "Legs and doors", - "text": "Attach legs to the bin's bottom for stability on uneven floors.\n\nFinally, install the doors with hinges and add locks or magnets to secure them.", + "text": "Add legs to the bottom of the bin for uneven floor.\n\nLastly, assemble the doors with door hinges, and add locks or magnets to keep them close.", "_animationKey": "unique88foh", "images": [ { @@ -191,7 +191,7 @@ ], "moderatorFeedback": "", "title": "Make a recycling bin", - "description": "# Creating a Recycling Bin with Reused Plastic Panels\n\nConstruct a recycling bin using reused plastic panels and standard aluminum tubes for a straightforward approach.", + "description": "Making a plastic recycling bin with recycled plastic panels. This is an easier method with standard aluminum tubes.", "tags": [ "HDPE", "PP", @@ -342,9 +342,5 @@ "images": [] } }, - "content": "# Creating a Recycling Bin with Reused Plastic Panels\n\nConstruct a recycling bin using reused plastic panels and standard aluminum tubes for a straightforward approach.\n\n\nUser Location: Hong Kong, Hong Kong\n\nPrepare materials as per the bin's dimensions and design.\n\nFor this project:\n\n- 30x30 mm (1.18x1.18 in) aluminum tube, 935 mm (36.81 in), x8\n- 30x30 mm (1.18x1.18 in) aluminum tube, 316 mm (12.44 in), x8\n- 30x30 mm (1.18x1.18 in) aluminum tube, 300 mm (11.81 in), x12\n- Corner fixing clips, x50\n- Corner fixing plates, x50\n- Legs, x8\n\nAssemble the frame using corner fixing clips, leaving corners free for panel installation later.\n\nAfter completing the frame, attach the panel using screws and corner fixing plates.\n\nWe use 12 mm (0.47 inch) thick polypropylene sheets and employ CNC milling to achieve the required shapes.\n\nAttach legs to the bin's bottom for stability on uneven floors.\n\nFinally, install the doors with hinges and add locks or magnets to secure them.", - "keywords": "recycling bin, reused plastic panels, aluminum tubes, Hong Kong recycling, DIY recycling project, polypropylene sheets, CNC milling, eco-friendly bin construction, sustainable materials, recycling bin assembly", - "resources": "### Hardware\n\n- 30×30mm aluminum tubes (various lengths)\n- Polypropylene sheets (12mm thick)\n- Corner fixing clips and plates (x100 total)\n- Adjustable legs (x8)\n- Door hinges and magnetic locks\n\n### Tools\n\n- CNC milling machine (for panel shaping)\n- Electric screwdriver/drill\n- Measuring tape\n- Wrench set\n- Level tool\n\n### Software\n\n- CAD software (for panel design)\n- CAM software (for CNC programming)\n- Project planning templates\n\nAll materials listed are standard construction components available at Hong Kong hardware stores like Hung Fai Tong or FixShop. CNC services can be sourced from local prototyping workshops like ProtoTech HK.", - "references": "## References\n\n### Articles\n\n- [The Plastic Recycling Process - Association of Plastic Recyclers (APR)](https://plasticsrecycling.org/how-recycling-works/the-plastic-recycling-process/)\n- [Design for Recycling Guidelines - RecyClass](https://recyclass.eu/recyclability/design-for-recycling-guidelines/)\n- [How To: DIY Pantry Recycling Center Makeover - ManMadeDIY](https://www.manmadediy.com/1255-how-to-diy-pantry-recycling-center-makeover/)\n- [DeepStream Designs’ Sustainable Recycling Bins](https://sustainabledesignprinciples.com/tag/3form-recycling-bins/)\n- [CNC Machining Techniques for Polypropylene Material](https://www.want.net/how-to-machine-polypropylene-material-a-complete-guide-for-cnc-fabrication/)\n- [Custom Polypropylene Machining Considerations](https://machining-quote.com/polypropylene-machining/)\n\n### YouTube\n\n- [SAVE your recycling bins from the DUMP](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9yiADlR28z8)\n- [How to Make Recycled BEAMS from Plastic Waste at Home](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=avdOxtKywbk)\n\n### Open-source Designs\n\n- [$50 Plastic Shredder / Grinder / Recycler - Instructables](https://www.instructables.com/50-Plastic-Shredder-Grinder-Recycler/)\n- [3Form Recycling Bin Design - Sustainable Design](https://sustainabledesignprinciples.com/tag/3form-recycling-bins/)\n\n### Papers\n\n- [Plastics Recycling: Challenges and Opportunities - PMC](https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC2873020/)", - "brief": "Build a recycling bin with reused plastic panels and aluminum tubes for an easy eco-friendly project; prep materials per design then assemble and secure panels." + "content": "Making a plastic recycling bin with recycled plastic panels. This is an easier method with standard aluminum tubes.\n\n\nUser Location: Hong Kong, Hong Kong\n\nPrepare material according to the size and design of the recycling bin.\n\nIn our case:\n\n- 30x30 alumimum tube 935mm x8\n- 30x30 alumimum tube 316mm x8\n- 30x30 alumimum tube 300mm x12\n- Corner fixing clips x50\n- Corner fixing plate x50\n- legs x8\n\nAssemble the frame, with the corner fixing clips and avoiding the corners for mounting the panels afterward.\n\nAfter the frame is done, fix the panel onto the frame with screws and corner fixing plate.\n\nWe use 12mm thick PP sheets and use CNC milling to cut into the right shapes.\n\nAdd legs to the bottom of the bin for uneven floor.\n\nLastly, assemble the doors with door hinges, and add locks or magnets to keep them close." } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/make-a-ruler-mould-with-inkscape/README.md b/howtos/make-a-ruler-mould-with-inkscape/README.md index 7dd843b29..cab061a0e 100644 --- a/howtos/make-a-ruler-mould-with-inkscape/README.md +++ b/howtos/make-a-ruler-mould-with-inkscape/README.md @@ -1,26 +1,26 @@ --- title: Make a ruler mould with Inkscape slug: make-a-ruler-mould-with-inkscape -description: Educational resources vary globally. This guide demonstrates using Inkscape to design a laser-cut ruler mold for injection molding. +description: Educational resources are not equally distributed across the world so you might as well recycle plastic and make products that are useful tools for learning and creating at the same time. In this how-to you will learn how to use Inkscape to make a laser cut ruler mould for injection moulding! tags: ["other machine","mould","research","product"] category: Moulds difficulty: Easy time: < 1 week -keywords: Inkscape guide, laser cutting, vector ruler generator, injection molding, create ruler mold, open source hardware, design tutorial, plastic ruler construction, educational resources, London UK +keywords: location: London, United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland (the) --- # Make a ruler mould with Inkscape ![Make a ruler mould with Inkscape](ruler.jpg) -Educational resources vary globally. This guide demonstrates using Inkscape to design a laser-cut ruler mold for injection molding. +Educational resources are not equally distributed across the world so you might as well recycle plastic and make products that are useful tools for learning and creating at the same time. In this how-to you will learn how to use Inkscape to make a laser cut ruler mould for injection moulding! User Location: London, United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland (the) ## Steps ### Step 1: Download Inkscape -- Visit [Inkscape](https://inkscape.org/) and choose the appropriate version for your operating system. -- Follow the installation guide provided. +-Go to inkscape.org: inkscape.org and select the distribution you need for your operating system +-Follow the instructions for the installation guide -- A reference of intermediary and final files created through this tutorial is attached, allowing you to test or modify them according to your requirements. +-For reference intermediary files and the final file which was made by doing the steps in this tutorial is attached to the how-to so you can test to see if you can reproduce the final product on your own or adapt it to your needs ![1_Inkscape_website.PNG](./1_Inkscape_website.PNG) @@ -30,10 +30,10 @@ User Location: London, United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland (the ### Step 2: Create a blank document -- Open Inkscape; a new document will appear. -- Adjust the document size via File > Document Properties. -- For this project, we selected A4 (8.27 x 11.69 inches), but you may opt for another size. -- Save the document in an easily accessible location. +-Open Inkscape and it should open a new document for you +-You can adjust the document size by clicking File > Document Properties +-We chose A4 for this project but you can adjust this to your needs +-Save it down in a place you can find later ![2_New_Document.PNG](./2_New_Document.PNG) @@ -46,13 +46,12 @@ User Location: London, United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland (the ### Step 3: Generate the ruler -### Vector Ruler Generator +Vector Ruler Generator is a free and open source tool to generate rulers for etching/laser cutting into various materials -Vector Ruler Generator is a free, open-source tool designed for creating rulers for etching or laser cutting into various materials. +-Go to robbbb.github.io: robbbb.github.io/VectorRuler +-On our ruler we wanted both centimetres and inches and to be roughly 15 cm long +-Select the parameters you want and save them down somewhere you can find them with understandable file names so you know which one's which -- Visit [robbbb.github.io/VectorRuler](https://robbbb.github.io/VectorRuler) -- Customize your ruler with desired parameters, such as including both centimeters and inches (15 cm or 5.9 in) -- Save your settings with clear file names for easy identification ![3_Vector_Ruler_Generator.PNG](./3_Vector_Ruler_Generator.PNG) @@ -65,10 +64,10 @@ Vector Ruler Generator is a free, open-source tool designed for creating rulers ### Step 4: Import the files -1. Go to File > Import and choose the desired file. -2. A dialog box with details will appear. -3. Click OK to view the files. -4. Repeat the process for the other unit of measurement. +-Click File > Import and select the file +-You will see a dialogue screen with some details +-Then click OK and you should see the files now +-Then repeat for the other ruler ![4_Import_a_file.png](./4_Import_a_file.png) @@ -81,12 +80,12 @@ Vector Ruler Generator is a free, open-source tool designed for creating rulers ### Step 5: Resize the rulers -To ensure correct import into the software, we must resize and adjust for laser cutting using Inkscape. +Because it may not import correctly into the software we will need to resize it to be accurate and adjust it for laser cutting. We will be doing this using guides in Inkscape -- Create a guide by clicking on the left-hand ruler and dragging to the right. -- A blue guide will appear. Double-click it, set it to 150 mm (5.91 inches), and press enter. -- Resize the ruler so the left side aligns with the document and the right side with the guide. -- Repeat the process for the inch ruler, setting the guide to 6 inches (152.4 mm). +-To create a guide click on the ruler on the left hand side and drag to the right +-You should now see a blue guide, double click on it and set it to 150 mm and click enter +-Then resize the ruler so that the left hand side touches the line of the document and the right hand touches the guide +-Then repeat for the inch ruler with the guide set to 6 inches ![5_Guide_set.PNG](./5_Guide_set.PNG) @@ -99,11 +98,11 @@ To ensure correct import into the software, we must resize and adjust for laser ### Step 6: Adjust for laser cutting -If you are laser cutting a mold, ensure the text is flipped to read correctly upon injection. +If you are laser cutting a mould you need to ensure that the text is flipped so it reads correctly when you inject the part -- Select the part to flip. -- Click the "Flip selected objects horizontally" button at the top of the page. -- Use the "Rotate selection 90°" buttons to make further adjustments if needed. +-Select the part you wish to flip +-Then click on the "Flip selected objects horizontally" button on the top of the page +-You can also use the "Rotate selection 90°" buttons to adjust as necessary ![6_Select_item.PNG](./6_Select_item.PNG) @@ -116,15 +115,14 @@ If you are laser cutting a mold, ensure the text is flipped to read correctly up ### Step 7: Add plastic identifier -### Instructions for Plastic Ruler Construction +Noting what plastic the rulers you are making will be made from is important because then the person in the future who is recycling it will know what temperatures to use. These can be found in the download kit for [filtered] or you can download them from the files attached to this How-to. -1. **Identify Plastic Type**: Determine the plastic type used for ruler production, which aids future processing. Relevant temperature guidelines are available in the accompanying files. +-Import the symbol you need in the same way you done with the ruler files +-It will then give you some import settings +-We selected "rough" precision to keep the file size down and because we know that the detail will be sufficient for laser cutting +-Now align it and place it where you want it to be -2. **Import Symbol**: Import the required symbol similarly to the process used for ruler files. -3. **Adjust Import Settings**: Opt for "rough" precision to minimize file size while ensuring adequate detail for laser cutting. - -4. **Alignment and Placement**: Align and position the symbol in the desired location. ![7_Import_window.PNG](./7_Import_window.PNG) @@ -137,11 +135,11 @@ If you are laser cutting a mold, ensure the text is flipped to read correctly up ### Step 8: Add cut outs for the ruler -- Click the Rectangle icon in the left menu to add an outline for the ruler. -- Draw the rectangle around the rulers and set the desired height and width from the top menu. -- Adjust the alignment of the rectangles to ensure the rulers remain visible. -- Select the rectangle and click the "Lower selection to bottom" icon at the top of the screen. -- Repeat the process for the mould's outer border. +-To add a rectangle for the outline of the ruler click the Rectangle icon in the left menu +-You can now draw it around the rulers and select the specific height and width from the top menu +-You may need to adjust the alignment of the rectangles so that the rulers are visible +-Select the item and click the "Lower selection to bottom" icon from the top of the screen +-Repeat for the outer border of the mould ![8_Create_inner_rectangle.png](./8_Create_inner_rectangle.png) @@ -154,16 +152,14 @@ If you are laser cutting a mold, ensure the text is flipped to read correctly up ### Step 9: Add fastening items -### Instructions +You'll now need to add holes for wing nuts and bolts or quick release clamps. -You need to create holes for wing nuts, bolts, or quick-release clamps. - -1. Select the circle icon from the left menu. -2. Draw a circle in the desired location. -3. Adjust the x and y radius from the top menu. -4. Select the circle and duplicate it with CTRL + D. -5. Hold CTRL and move the duplicate to the right for alignment along the x or y axis. -6. Select both top holes, duplicate them, and position them to form the bottom two holes. +-Select the circle icon in the left menu +-Draw a circle in the rough location +-You can adjust the x & y radius from the top menu +-Now select it and duplicate it by pressing CTRL + D +-Now hold CTRL and move it to the right (holding control means it will snap to be aligned in the x or y axis of where it was before) +-Now select both top holes and duplicate them and do the same to create the bottom two holes ![9_Insert_first_circle.png](./9_Insert_first_circle.png) @@ -176,10 +172,10 @@ You need to create holes for wing nuts, bolts, or quick-release clamps. ### Step 10: Make center mould -- Select all items using the selection tool or by pressing CTRL + A. -- Duplicate all objects by pressing CTRL + D. -- Hold CTRL and move the duplicated objects just below to minimize material waste during laser cutting. -- Delete the rulers and logo by selecting them and pressing delete. +-Select all of the items using the selection tool or by pressing CTRL + A +-Now duplicate all the objects pressing CTRL + D +-Now hold CTRL and move the duplicated objects to be just below it to avoid wasted material when laser cutting +-Now you can delete the rulers and the material logo by selecting it and pressing delete ![10_Select_all.PNG](./10_Select_all.PNG) @@ -192,9 +188,9 @@ You need to create holes for wing nuts, bolts, or quick-release clamps. ### Step 11: Make top mould -- Use selection tools to duplicate the entire center mold. -- Move it downward until the edges touch. -- Delete the center rectangle and replace it with a circle for the nozzle of the injection machine. +-Select all of the center mould using the selection tools and duplicate it again +-Now move it down like in the previous step so that the edges are touching +-Now you can delete the center rectangle and replace it with a circle for the nozzle of the injection machine that you have ![11_Select_center_mould.PNG](./11_Select_center_mould.PNG) @@ -207,81 +203,40 @@ You need to create holes for wing nuts, bolts, or quick-release clamps. ### Step 12: Export, laser cut & inject -- Save the file as an .svg by selecting File > Save As, and store it in an easily accessible location. - -- Import the file into your CAM software to etch the rulers, inner rectangle, and ID code on the bottom plate, and cut out the remaining lines. - -- Tap the threads, then proceed to injection mold using the injection machine. - -- Refer to the video by Kunststoffschmiede for detailed instructions on using Plexiglas. +-You can now save it down as an .svg by clicking File > Save as +-Save it somewhere you will find it later +-You can now import it into the CAM (computer Aided Manufacturing) software for your laser to etch the rulers, inner rectangle & id code of the bottom plate and cut out all the other lines +-Now you will need to tap the threads and you can now injection mould it using the injection machine +-See the video by Kunststoffschmiede on the Dave Hakkens Community Channel for details on how to do this with Plexiglas ### Step 13: Spread the Love -- Open source requires sharing the source and files. -- Upload them to platforms such as GitHub or GitLab. -- Share your work on our social media. +-Open source is not Open source if you don't share the source & files +-You can put it on GitHub or other places like GitLab as well +-Feel free to share your work with us on our social media -Darigov Research focuses on open source hardware, software, and education to address local challenges. +At Darigov Research we specialise in open source hardware, software and education to help people tackle global issues in their local community. -Support us through donations or Patreon: +If you wish to support us in the work that we do consider donating or joining us on Patreon -- Donate: [darigovresearch.com/donate](https://www.darigovresearch.com/donate) -- Patreon: [patreon.com/darigovresearch](https://www.patreon.com/darigovresearch) +Donate - darigovresearch.com: darigovresearch.com/donate +Patreon - patreon.com: patreon.com/darigovresearch -Visit our [Website](https://www.darigovresearch.com/), [YouTube Channel](https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCb34hWA6u2Lif92aljhV4HA), and follow us on Twitter, GitHub, and Instagram: @darigovresearch +Website - darigovresearch.com: darigovresearch.com +Youtube Channel – youtube.com: youtube.com/channel/UCb34hWA6u2Lif92aljhV4HA +Twitter, GitHub, Instagram - @​​​​darigovresearch ### Step 14: Get started -We have been constructing machines since the introduction of Version 2 and are dedicated to the progress achieved and future growth of this community. +We've been building [filtered] machines since V2 of the machines so we're very passionate about the great work that has been done so far and where this community will grow to! + +If you're interested in purchasing a machine or interested in inquiring about our services for any research and development purposes do take a look at the products we are selling on the Bazar or message us directly! + + -For inquiries about purchasing a machine or our research and development services, please review our available products or contact us directly. ![14_Get_Started.png](./14_Get_Started.png) ## Resources -To create a laser-cut ruler mold for injection molding using this tutorial, you'll need the following tools and resources: - -### Required Software - -- [Inkscape](https://inkscape.org/) (vector graphics editor for design) -- [Vector Ruler Generator](https://robbbb.github.io/VectorRuler) (custom ruler creation tool) -- CAM software (for laser cutting preparation) -- Web browser (to access online tools/resources) -- Compatible OS (Windows/macOS/Linux) - -### Required Hardware - -- Laser cutter (for mold fabrication) -- Injection molding machine (plastic forming) -- CNC machine (optional, for precision machining tasks) -- Basic machining tools (e.g., taps/dies for threading) - -### Required Materials - -- Plastic pellets/material (type determined in Step 1) -- Plexiglas sheets (for laser-cut mold components) -- Wing nuts/bolts/quick-release clamps (for mold assembly) - -All tools and resources mentioned are open-source or widely available, aligning with the tutorial's open-access philosophy. -## References -## Open Source Tools - -- [Inkscape](https://inkscape.org/) - -## Opensource Designs - -- [Vector Ruler Generator](https://robbbb.github.io/VectorRuler) - -## Organizations - -- [Darigov Research](https://www.darigovresearch.com/) - -## YouTube - -- [Darigov Research YouTube Channel](https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCb34hWA6u2Lif92aljhV4HA) - -## Funding & Support - -- [Darigov Research Donations](https://www.darigovresearch.com/donate) -- [Darigov Research Patreon](https://www.patreon.com/darigovresearch) \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/make-a-ruler-mould-with-inkscape/config.json b/howtos/make-a-ruler-mould-with-inkscape/config.json index 787e74412..5b5cacbfa 100644 --- a/howtos/make-a-ruler-mould-with-inkscape/config.json +++ b/howtos/make-a-ruler-mould-with-inkscape/config.json @@ -11,7 +11,7 @@ "steps": [ { "_animationKey": "unique1", - "text": "- Visit [Inkscape](https://inkscape.org/) and choose the appropriate version for your operating system.\n- Follow the installation guide provided.\n\n- A reference of intermediary and final files created through this tutorial is attached, allowing you to test or modify them according to your requirements.", + "text": "-Go to inkscape.org: inkscape.org and select the distribution you need for your operating system\n-Follow the instructions for the installation guide\n\n-For reference intermediary files and the final file which was made by doing the steps in this tutorial is attached to the how-to so you can test to see if you can reproduce the final product on your own or adapt it to your needs", "images": [ { "timeCreated": "2020-08-25T18:08:47.718Z", @@ -81,7 +81,7 @@ ], "title": "Create a blank document", "_animationKey": "unique2", - "text": "- Open Inkscape; a new document will appear.\n- Adjust the document size via File > Document Properties.\n- For this project, we selected A4 (8.27 x 11.69 inches), but you may opt for another size.\n- Save the document in an easily accessible location." + "text": "-Open Inkscape and it should open a new document for you\n-You can adjust the document size by clicking File > Document Properties\n-We chose A4 for this project but you can adjust this to your needs\n-Save it down in a place you can find later" }, { "images": [ @@ -123,11 +123,11 @@ } ], "_animationKey": "unique3", - "text": "### Vector Ruler Generator\n\nVector Ruler Generator is a free, open-source tool designed for creating rulers for etching or laser cutting into various materials.\n\n- Visit [robbbb.github.io/VectorRuler](https://robbbb.github.io/VectorRuler)\n- Customize your ruler with desired parameters, such as including both centimeters and inches (15 cm or 5.9 in)\n- Save your settings with clear file names for easy identification", + "text": "Vector Ruler Generator is a free and open source tool to generate rulers for etching/laser cutting into various materials\n\n-Go to robbbb.github.io: robbbb.github.io/VectorRuler\n-On our ruler we wanted both centimetres and inches and to be roughly 15 cm long\n-Select the parameters you want and save them down somewhere you can find them with understandable file names so you know which one's which\n", "title": "Generate the ruler" }, { - "text": "1. Go to File > Import and choose the desired file.\n2. A dialog box with details will appear.\n3. Click OK to view the files.\n4. Repeat the process for the other unit of measurement.", + "text": "-Click File > Import and select the file\n-You will see a dialogue screen with some details\n-Then click OK and you should see the files now\n-Then repeat for the other ruler", "images": [ { "updated": "2020-08-25T18:13:29.669Z", @@ -209,7 +209,7 @@ "alt": "5_Ruler_resize_in.PNG" } ], - "text": "To ensure correct import into the software, we must resize and adjust for laser cutting using Inkscape.\n\n- Create a guide by clicking on the left-hand ruler and dragging to the right.\n- A blue guide will appear. Double-click it, set it to 150 mm (5.91 inches), and press enter.\n- Resize the ruler so the left side aligns with the document and the right side with the guide.\n- Repeat the process for the inch ruler, setting the guide to 6 inches (152.4 mm).", + "text": "Because it may not import correctly into the software we will need to resize it to be accurate and adjust it for laser cutting. We will be doing this using guides in Inkscape\n\n-To create a guide click on the ruler on the left hand side and drag to the right\n-You should now see a blue guide, double click on it and set it to 150 mm and click enter\n-Then resize the ruler so that the left hand side touches the line of the document and the right hand touches the guide\n-Then repeat for the inch ruler with the guide set to 6 inches", "title": "Resize the rulers" }, { @@ -253,11 +253,11 @@ "alt": "6_Rotate_item.PNG" } ], - "text": "If you are laser cutting a mold, ensure the text is flipped to read correctly upon injection.\n\n- Select the part to flip.\n- Click the \"Flip selected objects horizontally\" button at the top of the page.\n- Use the \"Rotate selection 90°\" buttons to make further adjustments if needed." + "text": "If you are laser cutting a mould you need to ensure that the text is flipped so it reads correctly when you inject the part\n\n-Select the part you wish to flip\n-Then click on the \"Flip selected objects horizontally\" button on the top of the page\n-You can also use the \"Rotate selection 90°\" buttons to adjust as necessary" }, { "title": "Add plastic identifier", - "text": "### Instructions for Plastic Ruler Construction\n\n1. **Identify Plastic Type**: Determine the plastic type used for ruler production, which aids future processing. Relevant temperature guidelines are available in the accompanying files.\n\n2. **Import Symbol**: Import the required symbol similarly to the process used for ruler files.\n\n3. **Adjust Import Settings**: Opt for \"rough\" precision to minimize file size while ensuring adequate detail for laser cutting.\n\n4. **Alignment and Placement**: Align and position the symbol in the desired location.", + "text": "Noting what plastic the rulers you are making will be made from is important because then the person in the future who is recycling it will know what temperatures to use. These can be found in the download kit for [filtered] or you can download them from the files attached to this How-to.\n\n-Import the symbol you need in the same way you done with the ruler files\n-It will then give you some import settings\n-We selected \"rough\" precision to keep the file size down and because we know that the detail will be sufficient for laser cutting\n-Now align it and place it where you want it to be\n\n", "images": [ { "fullPath": "uploads/howtos/OXmMHPlHhjcq10ltIxaW/7_Import_window.PNG", @@ -300,7 +300,7 @@ }, { "title": "Add cut outs for the ruler", - "text": "- Click the Rectangle icon in the left menu to add an outline for the ruler.\n- Draw the rectangle around the rulers and set the desired height and width from the top menu.\n- Adjust the alignment of the rectangles to ensure the rulers remain visible.\n- Select the rectangle and click the \"Lower selection to bottom\" icon at the top of the screen.\n- Repeat the process for the mould's outer border.", + "text": "-To add a rectangle for the outline of the ruler click the Rectangle icon in the left menu\n-You can now draw it around the rulers and select the specific height and width from the top menu\n-You may need to adjust the alignment of the rectangles so that the rulers are visible\n-Select the item and click the \"Lower selection to bottom\" icon from the top of the screen\n-Repeat for the outer border of the mould", "_animationKey": "uniquearkfmc", "images": [ { @@ -382,7 +382,7 @@ "alt": "9_Insert_last_circles.png" } ], - "text": "### Instructions\n\nYou need to create holes for wing nuts, bolts, or quick-release clamps.\n\n1. Select the circle icon from the left menu.\n2. Draw a circle in the desired location.\n3. Adjust the x and y radius from the top menu.\n4. Select the circle and duplicate it with CTRL + D.\n5. Hold CTRL and move the duplicate to the right for alignment along the x or y axis.\n6. Select both top holes, duplicate them, and position them to form the bottom two holes." + "text": "You'll now need to add holes for wing nuts and bolts or quick release clamps.\n\n-Select the circle icon in the left menu\n-Draw a circle in the rough location\n-You can adjust the x & y radius from the top menu\n-Now select it and duplicate it by pressing CTRL + D\n-Now hold CTRL and move it to the right (holding control means it will snap to be aligned in the x or y axis of where it was before)\n-Now select both top holes and duplicate them and do the same to create the bottom two holes" }, { "_animationKey": "uniquegv77wi", @@ -424,7 +424,7 @@ "alt": "10_Remove_rulers_and_identifier.PNG" } ], - "text": "- Select all items using the selection tool or by pressing CTRL + A.\n- Duplicate all objects by pressing CTRL + D.\n- Hold CTRL and move the duplicated objects just below to minimize material waste during laser cutting.\n- Delete the rulers and logo by selecting them and pressing delete.", + "text": "-Select all of the items using the selection tool or by pressing CTRL + A\n-Now duplicate all the objects pressing CTRL + D\n-Now hold CTRL and move the duplicated objects to be just below it to avoid wasted material when laser cutting\n-Now you can delete the rulers and the material logo by selecting it and pressing delete", "title": "Make center mould" }, { @@ -467,18 +467,18 @@ } ], "title": "Make top mould", - "text": "- Use selection tools to duplicate the entire center mold.\n- Move it downward until the edges touch.\n- Delete the center rectangle and replace it with a circle for the nozzle of the injection machine.", + "text": "-Select all of the center mould using the selection tools and duplicate it again\n-Now move it down like in the previous step so that the edges are touching\n-Now you can delete the center rectangle and replace it with a circle for the nozzle of the injection machine that you have", "_animationKey": "uniquel03g5h" }, { "videoUrl": "https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=24ECE3VL13k", "images": [], "_animationKey": "uniquet9l6na", - "text": "- Save the file as an .svg by selecting File > Save As, and store it in an easily accessible location.\n\n- Import the file into your CAM software to etch the rulers, inner rectangle, and ID code on the bottom plate, and cut out the remaining lines.\n\n- Tap the threads, then proceed to injection mold using the injection machine.\n\n- Refer to the video by Kunststoffschmiede for detailed instructions on using Plexiglas.", + "text": "-You can now save it down as an .svg by clicking File > Save as\n-Save it somewhere you will find it later\n-You can now import it into the CAM (computer Aided Manufacturing) software for your laser to etch the rulers, inner rectangle & id code of the bottom plate and cut out all the other lines\n-Now you will need to tap the threads and you can now injection mould it using the injection machine\n-See the video by Kunststoffschmiede on the Dave Hakkens Community Channel for details on how to do this with Plexiglas", "title": "Export, laser cut & inject" }, { - "text": "- Open source requires sharing the source and files.\n- Upload them to platforms such as GitHub or GitLab.\n- Share your work on our social media.\n\nDarigov Research focuses on open source hardware, software, and education to address local challenges.\n\nSupport us through donations or Patreon:\n\n- Donate: [darigovresearch.com/donate](https://www.darigovresearch.com/donate)\n- Patreon: [patreon.com/darigovresearch](https://www.patreon.com/darigovresearch)\n\nVisit our [Website](https://www.darigovresearch.com/), [YouTube Channel](https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCb34hWA6u2Lif92aljhV4HA), and follow us on Twitter, GitHub, and Instagram: @darigovresearch", + "text": "-Open source is not Open source if you don't share the source & files\n-You can put it on GitHub or other places like GitLab as well\n-Feel free to share your work with us on our social media\n\nAt Darigov Research we specialise in open source hardware, software and education to help people tackle global issues in their local community.\n\nIf you wish to support us in the work that we do consider donating or joining us on Patreon\n\nDonate - darigovresearch.com: darigovresearch.com/donate\nPatreon - patreon.com: patreon.com/darigovresearch\n\nWebsite - darigovresearch.com: darigovresearch.com\nYoutube Channel – youtube.com: youtube.com/channel/UCb34hWA6u2Lif92aljhV4HA\nTwitter, GitHub, Instagram - @​​​​darigovresearch", "images": [], "_animationKey": "uniquew7o2gk", "videoUrl": "https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UAx3Xh6ZgVg", @@ -486,7 +486,7 @@ }, { "_animationKey": "unique7lshzm", - "text": "We have been constructing machines since the introduction of Version 2 and are dedicated to the progress achieved and future growth of this community.\n\nFor inquiries about purchasing a machine or our research and development services, please review our available products or contact us directly.", + "text": "We've been building [filtered] machines since V2 of the machines so we're very passionate about the great work that has been done so far and where this community will grow to!\n\nIf you're interested in purchasing a machine or interested in inquiring about our services for any research and development purposes do take a look at the products we are selling on the Bazar or message us directly!\n\n\n", "title": "Get started", "images": [ { @@ -560,7 +560,7 @@ "_deleted": false }, "creatorCountry": "", - "description": "Educational resources vary globally. This guide demonstrates using Inkscape to design a laser-cut ruler mold for injection molding.", + "description": "Educational resources are not equally distributed across the world so you might as well recycle plastic and make products that are useful tools for learning and creating at the same time. In this how-to you will learn how to use Inkscape to make a laser cut ruler mould for injection moulding!", "slug": "make-a-ruler-mould-with-inkscape", "_id": "OXmMHPlHhjcq10ltIxaW", "user": { @@ -740,9 +740,5 @@ "urls": [] } }, - "content": "Educational resources vary globally. This guide demonstrates using Inkscape to design a laser-cut ruler mold for injection molding.\n\n\nUser Location: London, United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland (the)\n\n- Visit [Inkscape](https://inkscape.org/) and choose the appropriate version for your operating system.\n- Follow the installation guide provided.\n\n- A reference of intermediary and final files created through this tutorial is attached, allowing you to test or modify them according to your requirements.\n\n- Open Inkscape; a new document will appear.\n- Adjust the document size via File > Document Properties.\n- For this project, we selected A4 (8.27 x 11.69 inches), but you may opt for another size.\n- Save the document in an easily accessible location.\n\n### Vector Ruler Generator\n\nVector Ruler Generator is a free, open-source tool designed for creating rulers for etching or laser cutting into various materials.\n\n- Visit [robbbb.github.io/VectorRuler](https://robbbb.github.io/VectorRuler)\n- Customize your ruler with desired parameters, such as including both centimeters and inches (15 cm or 5.9 in)\n- Save your settings with clear file names for easy identification\n\n1. Go to File > Import and choose the desired file.\n2. A dialog box with details will appear.\n3. Click OK to view the files.\n4. Repeat the process for the other unit of measurement.\n\nTo ensure correct import into the software, we must resize and adjust for laser cutting using Inkscape.\n\n- Create a guide by clicking on the left-hand ruler and dragging to the right.\n- A blue guide will appear. Double-click it, set it to 150 mm (5.91 inches), and press enter.\n- Resize the ruler so the left side aligns with the document and the right side with the guide.\n- Repeat the process for the inch ruler, setting the guide to 6 inches (152.4 mm).\n\nIf you are laser cutting a mold, ensure the text is flipped to read correctly upon injection.\n\n- Select the part to flip.\n- Click the \"Flip selected objects horizontally\" button at the top of the page.\n- Use the \"Rotate selection 90°\" buttons to make further adjustments if needed.\n\n### Instructions for Plastic Ruler Construction\n\n1. **Identify Plastic Type**: Determine the plastic type used for ruler production, which aids future processing. Relevant temperature guidelines are available in the accompanying files.\n\n2. **Import Symbol**: Import the required symbol similarly to the process used for ruler files.\n\n3. **Adjust Import Settings**: Opt for \"rough\" precision to minimize file size while ensuring adequate detail for laser cutting.\n\n4. **Alignment and Placement**: Align and position the symbol in the desired location.\n\n- Click the Rectangle icon in the left menu to add an outline for the ruler.\n- Draw the rectangle around the rulers and set the desired height and width from the top menu.\n- Adjust the alignment of the rectangles to ensure the rulers remain visible.\n- Select the rectangle and click the \"Lower selection to bottom\" icon at the top of the screen.\n- Repeat the process for the mould's outer border.\n\n### Instructions\n\nYou need to create holes for wing nuts, bolts, or quick-release clamps.\n\n1. Select the circle icon from the left menu.\n2. Draw a circle in the desired location.\n3. Adjust the x and y radius from the top menu.\n4. Select the circle and duplicate it with CTRL + D.\n5. Hold CTRL and move the duplicate to the right for alignment along the x or y axis.\n6. Select both top holes, duplicate them, and position them to form the bottom two holes.\n\n- Select all items using the selection tool or by pressing CTRL + A.\n- Duplicate all objects by pressing CTRL + D.\n- Hold CTRL and move the duplicated objects just below to minimize material waste during laser cutting.\n- Delete the rulers and logo by selecting them and pressing delete.\n\n- Use selection tools to duplicate the entire center mold.\n- Move it downward until the edges touch.\n- Delete the center rectangle and replace it with a circle for the nozzle of the injection machine.\n\n- Save the file as an .svg by selecting File > Save As, and store it in an easily accessible location.\n\n- Import the file into your CAM software to etch the rulers, inner rectangle, and ID code on the bottom plate, and cut out the remaining lines.\n\n- Tap the threads, then proceed to injection mold using the injection machine.\n\n- Refer to the video by Kunststoffschmiede for detailed instructions on using Plexiglas.\n\n- Open source requires sharing the source and files.\n- Upload them to platforms such as GitHub or GitLab.\n- Share your work on our social media.\n\nDarigov Research focuses on open source hardware, software, and education to address local challenges.\n\nSupport us through donations or Patreon:\n\n- Donate: [darigovresearch.com/donate](https://www.darigovresearch.com/donate)\n- Patreon: [patreon.com/darigovresearch](https://www.patreon.com/darigovresearch)\n\nVisit our [Website](https://www.darigovresearch.com/), [YouTube Channel](https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCb34hWA6u2Lif92aljhV4HA), and follow us on Twitter, GitHub, and Instagram: @darigovresearch\n\nWe have been constructing machines since the introduction of Version 2 and are dedicated to the progress achieved and future growth of this community.\n\nFor inquiries about purchasing a machine or our research and development services, please review our available products or contact us directly.", - "keywords": "Inkscape guide, laser cutting, vector ruler generator, injection molding, create ruler mold, open source hardware, design tutorial, plastic ruler construction, educational resources, London UK", - "resources": "To create a laser-cut ruler mold for injection molding using this tutorial, you'll need the following tools and resources:\n\n### Required Software\n\n- [Inkscape](https://inkscape.org/) (vector graphics editor for design)\n- [Vector Ruler Generator](https://robbbb.github.io/VectorRuler) (custom ruler creation tool)\n- CAM software (for laser cutting preparation)\n- Web browser (to access online tools/resources)\n- Compatible OS (Windows/macOS/Linux)\n\n### Required Hardware\n\n- Laser cutter (for mold fabrication)\n- Injection molding machine (plastic forming)\n- CNC machine (optional, for precision machining tasks)\n- Basic machining tools (e.g., taps/dies for threading)\n\n### Required Materials\n\n- Plastic pellets/material (type determined in Step 1)\n- Plexiglas sheets (for laser-cut mold components)\n- Wing nuts/bolts/quick-release clamps (for mold assembly)\n\nAll tools and resources mentioned are open-source or widely available, aligning with the tutorial's open-access philosophy.", - "references": "## Open Source Tools\n\n- [Inkscape](https://inkscape.org/)\n\n## Opensource Designs\n\n- [Vector Ruler Generator](https://robbbb.github.io/VectorRuler)\n\n## Organizations\n\n- [Darigov Research](https://www.darigovresearch.com/)\n\n## YouTube\n\n- [Darigov Research YouTube Channel](https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCb34hWA6u2Lif92aljhV4HA)\n\n## Funding & Support\n\n- [Darigov Research Donations](https://www.darigovresearch.com/donate)\n- [Darigov Research Patreon](https://www.patreon.com/darigovresearch)", - "brief": "Learn to use Inkscape for designing injection molding laser-cut ruler molds. Access resources on creating, aligning, and enhancing DIY projects efficiently." + "content": "Educational resources are not equally distributed across the world so you might as well recycle plastic and make products that are useful tools for learning and creating at the same time. In this how-to you will learn how to use Inkscape to make a laser cut ruler mould for injection moulding!\n\n\nUser Location: London, United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland (the)\n\n-Go to inkscape.org: inkscape.org and select the distribution you need for your operating system\n-Follow the instructions for the installation guide\n\n-For reference intermediary files and the final file which was made by doing the steps in this tutorial is attached to the how-to so you can test to see if you can reproduce the final product on your own or adapt it to your needs\n\n-Open Inkscape and it should open a new document for you\n-You can adjust the document size by clicking File > Document Properties\n-We chose A4 for this project but you can adjust this to your needs\n-Save it down in a place you can find later\n\nVector Ruler Generator is a free and open source tool to generate rulers for etching/laser cutting into various materials\n\n-Go to robbbb.github.io: robbbb.github.io/VectorRuler\n-On our ruler we wanted both centimetres and inches and to be roughly 15 cm long\n-Select the parameters you want and save them down somewhere you can find them with understandable file names so you know which one's which\n\n\n-Click File > Import and select the file\n-You will see a dialogue screen with some details\n-Then click OK and you should see the files now\n-Then repeat for the other ruler\n\nBecause it may not import correctly into the software we will need to resize it to be accurate and adjust it for laser cutting. We will be doing this using guides in Inkscape\n\n-To create a guide click on the ruler on the left hand side and drag to the right\n-You should now see a blue guide, double click on it and set it to 150 mm and click enter\n-Then resize the ruler so that the left hand side touches the line of the document and the right hand touches the guide\n-Then repeat for the inch ruler with the guide set to 6 inches\n\nIf you are laser cutting a mould you need to ensure that the text is flipped so it reads correctly when you inject the part\n\n-Select the part you wish to flip\n-Then click on the \"Flip selected objects horizontally\" button on the top of the page\n-You can also use the \"Rotate selection 90°\" buttons to adjust as necessary\n\nNoting what plastic the rulers you are making will be made from is important because then the person in the future who is recycling it will know what temperatures to use. These can be found in the download kit for [filtered] or you can download them from the files attached to this How-to.\n\n-Import the symbol you need in the same way you done with the ruler files\n-It will then give you some import settings\n-We selected \"rough\" precision to keep the file size down and because we know that the detail will be sufficient for laser cutting\n-Now align it and place it where you want it to be\n\n\n\n-To add a rectangle for the outline of the ruler click the Rectangle icon in the left menu\n-You can now draw it around the rulers and select the specific height and width from the top menu\n-You may need to adjust the alignment of the rectangles so that the rulers are visible\n-Select the item and click the \"Lower selection to bottom\" icon from the top of the screen\n-Repeat for the outer border of the mould\n\nYou'll now need to add holes for wing nuts and bolts or quick release clamps.\n\n-Select the circle icon in the left menu\n-Draw a circle in the rough location\n-You can adjust the x & y radius from the top menu\n-Now select it and duplicate it by pressing CTRL + D\n-Now hold CTRL and move it to the right (holding control means it will snap to be aligned in the x or y axis of where it was before)\n-Now select both top holes and duplicate them and do the same to create the bottom two holes\n\n-Select all of the items using the selection tool or by pressing CTRL + A\n-Now duplicate all the objects pressing CTRL + D\n-Now hold CTRL and move the duplicated objects to be just below it to avoid wasted material when laser cutting\n-Now you can delete the rulers and the material logo by selecting it and pressing delete\n\n-Select all of the center mould using the selection tools and duplicate it again\n-Now move it down like in the previous step so that the edges are touching\n-Now you can delete the center rectangle and replace it with a circle for the nozzle of the injection machine that you have\n\n-You can now save it down as an .svg by clicking File > Save as\n-Save it somewhere you will find it later\n-You can now import it into the CAM (computer Aided Manufacturing) software for your laser to etch the rulers, inner rectangle & id code of the bottom plate and cut out all the other lines\n-Now you will need to tap the threads and you can now injection mould it using the injection machine\n-See the video by Kunststoffschmiede on the Dave Hakkens Community Channel for details on how to do this with Plexiglas\n\n-Open source is not Open source if you don't share the source & files\n-You can put it on GitHub or other places like GitLab as well\n-Feel free to share your work with us on our social media\n\nAt Darigov Research we specialise in open source hardware, software and education to help people tackle global issues in their local community.\n\nIf you wish to support us in the work that we do consider donating or joining us on Patreon\n\nDonate - darigovresearch.com: darigovresearch.com/donate\nPatreon - patreon.com: patreon.com/darigovresearch\n\nWebsite - darigovresearch.com: darigovresearch.com\nYoutube Channel – youtube.com: youtube.com/channel/UCb34hWA6u2Lif92aljhV4HA\nTwitter, GitHub, Instagram - @​​​​darigovresearch\n\nWe've been building [filtered] machines since V2 of the machines so we're very passionate about the great work that has been done so far and where this community will grow to!\n\nIf you're interested in purchasing a machine or interested in inquiring about our services for any research and development purposes do take a look at the products we are selling on the Bazar or message us directly!\n\n\n" } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/make-a-silicone-mould-for-soft-plastics/README.md b/howtos/make-a-silicone-mould-for-soft-plastics/README.md index a9b45696d..f75e3693f 100644 --- a/howtos/make-a-silicone-mould-for-soft-plastics/README.md +++ b/howtos/make-a-silicone-mould-for-soft-plastics/README.md @@ -1,54 +1,53 @@ --- title: Make a Silicone Mould for Soft Plastics slug: make-a-silicone-mould-for-soft-plastics -description: # Tutorial: Casting Objects in Silicone for Use with Plastics +description: This tutorial will show you how to cast an object in silicone to use with soft plastics. Casting with silicone will allow you to remake intricate, delicate or unusual objects in plastic. -This guide demonstrates how to cast objects in silicone to create replicas in soft plastics. Silicone molds are ideal for replicating intricate or delicate items. - -You can choose to cast simple items, like a vase, or more complex ones, such as a tree. These molds are reusable. +You can get as experimental as you wish casting simples items such as a vase or something as extreme as a tree! Don’t worry you will be able to use this mould over and over again. tags: ["compression","mould","LDPE","HDPE"] category: Moulds difficulty: Easy time: < 1 week -keywords: silicone casting, soft plastics, mold making, silicone molds, intricate replicas, casting tutorial, reusable molds, crafting Sydney, silicone preparation, DIY casting +keywords: location: Sydney, Australia --- # Make a Silicone Mould for Soft Plastics ![Make a Silicone Mould for Soft Plastics](cover_image.jpg) -# Tutorial: Casting Objects in Silicone for Use with Plastics +This tutorial will show you how to cast an object in silicone to use with soft plastics. Casting with silicone will allow you to remake intricate, delicate or unusual objects in plastic. -This guide demonstrates how to cast objects in silicone to create replicas in soft plastics. Silicone molds are ideal for replicating intricate or delicate items. - -You can choose to cast simple items, like a vase, or more complex ones, such as a tree. These molds are reusable. +You can get as experimental as you wish casting simples items such as a vase or something as extreme as a tree! Don’t worry you will be able to use this mould over and over again. User Location: Sydney, Australia ## Steps ### Step 1: Gathering the Tools -Before starting, ensure you have the correct tools: +Before we begin make sure you have the right tools. -- Casting silicone (1:1 ratio) -- Measuring jug -- Plastic stirrer -- Take-away container -- Clay -- Knife -- Chosen object +You will need: +Casting silicone (equal part 1:1) +Measuring jug +Plastic stirrer +Take-away container (recycled of course!) +Clay +Knife +Your chosen object -In this tutorial, I used approximately 16.9 fl oz of silicone for an object measuring 4 in (h) x 1 in (w) x 1.2 in (l). Maintain a clean workspace and have all tools prepared, as silicone sets quickly and is costly to waste. +For this tutorial I have used 500ml of silicone for an object which measures (h)10x(w)2.5x(l)3cm. +Make sure you have a clean work space and all your tools are ready. Silicone sets fast and can be costly to waste ![1.jpg](./1.jpg) ### Step 2: Preparing Your Object -First, clean your object of any dirt or dust. +First clean your object of dirt or dust. + +Using clay place a small strip to the back of your object making sure the object sits flat when placed down—this will become the entry for your plastic once the mould is complete. -Apply a small strip of clay to the back of your object, ensuring it sits flat when placed down. This will serve as the entry point for material once the mold is complete. +Be sure to cover any wholes and neaten the edges with a knife cutting away any excess. +Place the object facing upwards onto the take-away container lid. -Cover any holes and trim excess clay with a knife. Position the object face-up on the container lid. - -Proceed to construct the walls of your mold box. +Now you are ready to build the walls of your mould box. ![2a.jpg](./2a.jpg) @@ -61,9 +60,11 @@ Proceed to construct the walls of your mold box. ### Step 3: Making the Mould Box -As the bases of take-away containers are often uneven, remove the bottom of the container using a knife to create separate parts: the container edges, the bottom, and the lid. The container edges will form the walls of the box; the bottom serves as an extra wall; and the lid becomes the box's base. +As take-away containers usually have uneven bases cut out the bottom of the container using a knife. You should be left with the container edges, the bottom and the lid. The container edges will be used as the walls of the box, the bottom will be used as an additional wall and the lid will become the bottom of your box. + +Place the walls of the container over the lid and object. Leave a 2-3cm gap between the object and the walls. If the walls are too far from the object use the additional wall (the cut out bottom) as an insert to get closer to the object. +The closer you are to your object the less silicone you waste! -Position the container walls over the lid and object, maintaining a gap of 0.8-1.2 inches (2-3 cm) between the object and walls. Use the cut-out bottom as an insert if the walls are too distant from the object. This ensures minimal silicone usage. ![3.jpg](./3.jpg) @@ -76,9 +77,9 @@ Position the container walls over the lid and object, maintaining a gap of 0.8-1 ### Step 4: Sealing the Mould Box -Seal the base of the walls with clay to prevent silicone leakage. +Once you have the right area around the object we need to seal the base of the walls with clay so the silicone does not escape. -Shape the clay into a ball, then into thin strands. Press these strands along the inner and outer edges of your walls. The mold box should now be sealed effectively. +Roll the clay into a ball and then into thin noodles. Press the noodles along the edges off your walls inside and out. The mould box should now be silicone tight! ![82167547_2705923779483259_4001545713136697344_n.jpg](./82167547_2705923779483259_4001545713136697344_n.jpg) @@ -91,19 +92,13 @@ Shape the clay into a ball, then into thin strands. Press these strands along th ### Step 5: Preparing and Mixing the Silicone -Certainly, here is the revised text in Markdown format: +The hardest part is over! Now it's time to prepare the silicone for pouring. ---- - -The initial stage is complete; begin preparing the silicone for pouring. - -**Preparation:** - -Arrange the measuring jug, the silicone bottles (A and B), the stirrer, and the mold box. Ensure all materials are ready, as you must act swiftly before the silicone sets. - -**Mixing:** - -Pour 250 ml (approximately 8.45 fl oz) of part A into the measuring jug, followed by 250 ml (approximately 8.45 fl oz) of part B, totaling 500 ml (approximately 16.9 fl oz) of silicone. Mix the silicone thoroughly and quickly with your stirrer to ensure proper setting. +Preparation: +Line up the measuring jug, the silicone bottles (A) and (B), the stirrer and the mould box. Remember you must work fast before the silicone sets so you must have everything ready to go. +Mixing: +Add 250ml of part A into the measuring jug, then add 250ml of B. This should equal 500ml of silicone in the jug. +Now quickly mix the silicone with your stirrer. Be sure that the mixture is thoroughly mixed otherwise your silicone will not set properly. ![5a.jpg](./5a.jpg) @@ -114,10 +109,11 @@ Pour 250 ml (approximately 8.45 fl oz) of part A into the measuring jug, followe ### Step 6: Pouring the Silicone & Clean Up Pouring: -Focus on the highest point and center of the object. Pour directly onto the most detailed section first, then move around the object to ensure the silicone covers every surface evenly. Allow the silicone to set for approximately 30 minutes. +Concentrate on the highest point and the centre of the object—pour directly onto the most detailed section first, then moving around the object making sure the silicone reaches every part of the surface and the object is evenly coated. +Leave the silicone to set (approx 30 mins) Cleanup: -Leave the excess silicone on the jug and stirrer to dry for 30 minutes. Once dry, peel off the silicone, leaving the jug and stirrer clean. +Leave the excess silicone on your jug and stirrer. Let it to dry fro 30 mins. Once dry the silicone can be pealed off leaving the jug and stirrer perfectly clean. ![4b.jpg](./4b.jpg) @@ -130,11 +126,12 @@ Leave the excess silicone on the jug and stirrer to dry for 30 minutes. Once dry ### Step 7: Releasing the Mould -After 30 minutes (or when the silicone is no longer sticky), release the mold by removing the clay from the edges of the container and silicone mold. Stretch the sides of the mold to extract the object. -Retain the clay and plastic container for potential future use. +After 30mins or after the silicone stops being sticky you may release your mould. To do this you must remove the clay from the edges of your container and silicone mould. Once the clay is removed from the container and the silicone, stretch the sides of the mould to remove the object. -Once the object is removed, the mold is ready for use. +Keep the clay and the plastic container as you may use them again. + +Once the Object is removed you are ready to use the mould! ![6a.jpg](./6a.jpg) @@ -147,15 +144,17 @@ Once the object is removed, the mold is ready for use. ### Step 8: Using the Mould -Once the mold is released, it is ready for use. +Once the mould is released you are ready to begin using it. -This mold is suitable for soft plastics and works best when plastic is hand-pressed. Wear heat and chemical-resistant gloves when handling plastic. +Please note; this mould is suitable for soft plastics. This mould is best when plastic is hand-pressed into the mould. Be sure that you are using heat and chemical resistant gloves when handling the plastic. -I reused plastic from another project to melt and press into the mold. You may need to sand or trim rough edges for a clean finish. +For this mould I have reused plastic from another project to melt and press into my mould. +You may need to sand or cut off some messy edges to complete the look you want. -Silicone will capture any surface details, so ensure accuracy during molding. +Silicone will capture any surface as will your plastic when being moulded so go big or go home! -I have used only soft plastics (LDPE & HDPE) with this technique, but experimentation is encouraged. + +Note: I have only used soft plastics (LDPE & HDPE) with this technique but please feel free to experiment. ![82511252_956938401367282_4234002606055227392_n.jpg](./82511252_956938401367282_4234002606055227392_n.jpg) @@ -167,55 +166,4 @@ I have used only soft plastics (LDPE & HDPE) with this technique, but experiment ![82905818_164061221524516_5612330106094616576_n.jpg](./82905818_164061221524516_5612330106094616576_n.jpg) ## Resources -*** - -### Tools - -- Measuring jug -- Plastic stirrer -- Knife -- Take-away container (reused) [Common at retailers](https://www.woolworths.com.au/) -- Clay (for sealing mold edges) - -### Hardware - -- Casting silicone (1:1 ratio, e.g., [Barnes Products Australia](https://www.barnes.com.au/)) -- Heat/chemical-resistant gloves (for handling plastics) -- Reusable soft plastics (LDPE/HDPE) -- Sanding/trimming tools (for finishing) -- Object to be cast - -### Software - -No specific software required for this process. - -*** -## References -## References - -### Articles - -- [The beginner's guide to mold making and casting](https://blog.prusa3d.com/the-beginners-guide-to-mold-making-and-casting_31561/) -- [Trying My Hand At: Mold Making and Casting With Silicone RTV](https://www.instructables.com/Trying-my-hand-at-Mold-Making-and-Casting-with-Si/) -- [How to Make Two-Part Silicone Molds for Resin Casting](https://www.siliconeab.com/tutorial/silicone-mold-casting-pu-resin.html) -- [Casting Silicone Parts in 3D Printed Molds](https://formlabs.com/blog/casting-silicone-guide/) -- [Silicone Mold Overview](https://cirexfoundry.com/prototyping/techniques/silicone-mold/) -- [How to Make Silicone Molds: A Practical Guide](https://formlabs.com/blog/how-to-make-silicone-molds/) - -### Books - -- [Mold Making and Casting Guide Book](https://composimoldstore.com/mold-making-and-casting-guide/) -- [Cast Like Magic: A Beginner's Guide to Mold Making and Resin Casting](https://www.punishedprops.com/shop/cast-like-magic-folkenstal-ebook/) - -### Papers - -- [Volume-Aware Design of Composite Molds](https://opus.lib.uts.edu.au/bitstream/10453/137699/4/composite_compressed.pdf) -- [Silicone v1.0.0: Inferring Anthropogenic Emissions](https://gmd.copernicus.org/articles/13/5259/2020/) - -### YouTube - -- [Metamolds: Computational Design of Silicone Molds](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7M2TbQnRLNg) - -### Opensource Designs - -- [Handcrafting Silicone Dildos Guide](https://github.com/starkatt/Cocksmithing/blob/main/cocksmithing.md) \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/make-a-silicone-mould-for-soft-plastics/config.json b/howtos/make-a-silicone-mould-for-soft-plastics/config.json index 1b1300077..416bb4df3 100644 --- a/howtos/make-a-silicone-mould-for-soft-plastics/config.json +++ b/howtos/make-a-silicone-mould-for-soft-plastics/config.json @@ -12,10 +12,10 @@ "_id": "PNQc9KjspF0xU4fMYEin", "_created": "2022-05-09T21:18:16.628Z" }, - "description": "# Tutorial: Casting Objects in Silicone for Use with Plastics\n\nThis guide demonstrates how to cast objects in silicone to create replicas in soft plastics. Silicone molds are ideal for replicating intricate or delicate items.\n\nYou can choose to cast simple items, like a vase, or more complex ones, such as a tree. These molds are reusable.", + "description": "This tutorial will show you how to cast an object in silicone to use with soft plastics. Casting with silicone will allow you to remake intricate, delicate or unusual objects in plastic. \n\nYou can get as experimental as you wish casting simples items such as a vase or something as extreme as a tree! Don’t worry you will be able to use this mould over and over again.", "steps": [ { - "text": "Before starting, ensure you have the correct tools:\n\n- Casting silicone (1:1 ratio)\n- Measuring jug\n- Plastic stirrer\n- Take-away container\n- Clay\n- Knife\n- Chosen object\n\nIn this tutorial, I used approximately 16.9 fl oz of silicone for an object measuring 4 in (h) x 1 in (w) x 1.2 in (l). Maintain a clean workspace and have all tools prepared, as silicone sets quickly and is costly to waste.", + "text": "Before we begin make sure you have the right tools.\n\nYou will need:\nCasting silicone (equal part 1:1)\nMeasuring jug\nPlastic stirrer\nTake-away container (recycled of course!)\nClay\nKnife\nYour chosen object\n\nFor this tutorial I have used 500ml of silicone for an object which measures (h)10x(w)2.5x(l)3cm.\nMake sure you have a clean work space and all your tools are ready. Silicone sets fast and can be costly to waste", "images": [ { "type": "image/jpeg", @@ -74,7 +74,7 @@ } ], "title": "Preparing Your Object", - "text": "First, clean your object of any dirt or dust.\n\nApply a small strip of clay to the back of your object, ensuring it sits flat when placed down. This will serve as the entry point for material once the mold is complete.\n\nCover any holes and trim excess clay with a knife. Position the object face-up on the container lid.\n\nProceed to construct the walls of your mold box.", + "text": "First clean your object of dirt or dust.\n \nUsing clay place a small strip to the back of your object making sure the object sits flat when placed down—this will become the entry for your plastic once the mould is complete.\n\nBe sure to cover any wholes and neaten the edges with a knife cutting away any excess.\nPlace the object facing upwards onto the take-away container lid.\n\nNow you are ready to build the walls of your mould box.", "caption": "", "_animationKey": "unique2" }, @@ -118,14 +118,14 @@ } ], "caption": "", - "text": "As the bases of take-away containers are often uneven, remove the bottom of the container using a knife to create separate parts: the container edges, the bottom, and the lid. The container edges will form the walls of the box; the bottom serves as an extra wall; and the lid becomes the box's base. \n\nPosition the container walls over the lid and object, maintaining a gap of 0.8-1.2 inches (2-3 cm) between the object and walls. Use the cut-out bottom as an insert if the walls are too distant from the object. This ensures minimal silicone usage.", + "text": "As take-away containers usually have uneven bases cut out the bottom of the container using a knife. You should be left with the container edges, the bottom and the lid. The container edges will be used as the walls of the box, the bottom will be used as an additional wall and the lid will become the bottom of your box.\n\nPlace the walls of the container over the lid and object. Leave a 2-3cm gap between the object and the walls. If the walls are too far from the object use the additional wall (the cut out bottom) as an insert to get closer to the object. \nThe closer you are to your object the less silicone you waste!\n", "title": "Making the Mould Box ", "_animationKey": "unique3" }, { "title": "Sealing the Mould Box", "_animationKey": "uniquepblu6", - "text": "Seal the base of the walls with clay to prevent silicone leakage.\n\nShape the clay into a ball, then into thin strands. Press these strands along the inner and outer edges of your walls. The mold box should now be sealed effectively.", + "text": "Once you have the right area around the object we need to seal the base of the walls with clay so the silicone does not escape. \n\nRoll the clay into a ball and then into thin noodles. Press the noodles along the edges off your walls inside and out. The mould box should now be silicone tight!", "images": [ { "downloadUrl": "https://firebasestorage.googleapis.com/v0/b/onearmyworld.appspot.com/o/uploads%2Fv3_howtos%2FoUkqYtJzE633gBn3nCvp%2F82167547_2705923779483259_4001545713136697344_n.jpg?alt=media&token=16ac0b18-85cd-4d2f-b6ba-7aec79ce9928", @@ -194,12 +194,12 @@ "alt": "4a.jpg" } ], - "text": "Certainly, here is the revised text in Markdown format:\n\n---\n\nThe initial stage is complete; begin preparing the silicone for pouring.\n\n**Preparation:**\n\nArrange the measuring jug, the silicone bottles (A and B), the stirrer, and the mold box. Ensure all materials are ready, as you must act swiftly before the silicone sets.\n\n**Mixing:**\n\nPour 250 ml (approximately 8.45 fl oz) of part A into the measuring jug, followed by 250 ml (approximately 8.45 fl oz) of part B, totaling 500 ml (approximately 16.9 fl oz) of silicone. Mix the silicone thoroughly and quickly with your stirrer to ensure proper setting." + "text": "The hardest part is over! Now it's time to prepare the silicone for pouring.\n\nPreparation:\nLine up the measuring jug, the silicone bottles (A) and (B), the stirrer and the mould box. Remember you must work fast before the silicone sets so you must have everything ready to go.\nMixing:\nAdd 250ml of part A into the measuring jug, then add 250ml of B. This should equal 500ml of silicone in the jug.\nNow quickly mix the silicone with your stirrer. Be sure that the mixture is thoroughly mixed otherwise your silicone will not set properly." }, { "title": "Pouring the Silicone & Clean Up", "_animationKey": "uniquex8xub9", - "text": "Pouring:\nFocus on the highest point and center of the object. Pour directly onto the most detailed section first, then move around the object to ensure the silicone covers every surface evenly. Allow the silicone to set for approximately 30 minutes.\n\nCleanup:\nLeave the excess silicone on the jug and stirrer to dry for 30 minutes. Once dry, peel off the silicone, leaving the jug and stirrer clean.", + "text": "Pouring:\nConcentrate on the highest point and the centre of the object—pour directly onto the most detailed section first, then moving around the object making sure the silicone reaches every part of the surface and the object is evenly coated.\nLeave the silicone to set (approx 30 mins)\n\nCleanup:\nLeave the excess silicone on your jug and stirrer. Let it to dry fro 30 mins. Once dry the silicone can be pealed off leaving the jug and stirrer perfectly clean.", "images": [ { "size": 170809, @@ -241,7 +241,7 @@ }, { "_animationKey": "uniqueg50ebj", - "text": "After 30 minutes (or when the silicone is no longer sticky), release the mold by removing the clay from the edges of the container and silicone mold. Stretch the sides of the mold to extract the object.\n\nRetain the clay and plastic container for potential future use.\n\nOnce the object is removed, the mold is ready for use.", + "text": "\nAfter 30mins or after the silicone stops being sticky you may release your mould. To do this you must remove the clay from the edges of your container and silicone mould. Once the clay is removed from the container and the silicone, stretch the sides of the mould to remove the object.\n\nKeep the clay and the plastic container as you may use them again.\n\nOnce the Object is removed you are ready to use the mould!", "images": [ { "size": 136293, @@ -283,7 +283,7 @@ "title": "Releasing the Mould" }, { - "text": "Once the mold is released, it is ready for use.\n\nThis mold is suitable for soft plastics and works best when plastic is hand-pressed. Wear heat and chemical-resistant gloves when handling plastic.\n\nI reused plastic from another project to melt and press into the mold. You may need to sand or trim rough edges for a clean finish.\n\nSilicone will capture any surface details, so ensure accuracy during molding.\n\nI have used only soft plastics (LDPE & HDPE) with this technique, but experimentation is encouraged.", + "text": "Once the mould is released you are ready to begin using it.\n\nPlease note; this mould is suitable for soft plastics. This mould is best when plastic is hand-pressed into the mould. Be sure that you are using heat and chemical resistant gloves when handling the plastic. \n\nFor this mould I have reused plastic from another project to melt and press into my mould. \nYou may need to sand or cut off some messy edges to complete the look you want.\n\nSilicone will capture any surface as will your plastic when being moulded so go big or go home!\n\n\nNote: I have only used soft plastics (LDPE & HDPE) with this technique but please feel free to experiment.", "title": "Using the Mould", "_animationKey": "uniques3nshp", "images": [ @@ -513,9 +513,5 @@ "images": [] } }, - "content": "# Tutorial: Casting Objects in Silicone for Use with Plastics\n\nThis guide demonstrates how to cast objects in silicone to create replicas in soft plastics. Silicone molds are ideal for replicating intricate or delicate items.\n\nYou can choose to cast simple items, like a vase, or more complex ones, such as a tree. These molds are reusable.\n\n\nUser Location: Sydney, Australia\n\nBefore starting, ensure you have the correct tools:\n\n- Casting silicone (1:1 ratio)\n- Measuring jug\n- Plastic stirrer\n- Take-away container\n- Clay\n- Knife\n- Chosen object\n\nIn this tutorial, I used approximately 16.9 fl oz of silicone for an object measuring 4 in (h) x 1 in (w) x 1.2 in (l). Maintain a clean workspace and have all tools prepared, as silicone sets quickly and is costly to waste.\n\nFirst, clean your object of any dirt or dust.\n\nApply a small strip of clay to the back of your object, ensuring it sits flat when placed down. This will serve as the entry point for material once the mold is complete.\n\nCover any holes and trim excess clay with a knife. Position the object face-up on the container lid.\n\nProceed to construct the walls of your mold box.\n\nAs the bases of take-away containers are often uneven, remove the bottom of the container using a knife to create separate parts: the container edges, the bottom, and the lid. The container edges will form the walls of the box; the bottom serves as an extra wall; and the lid becomes the box's base. \n\nPosition the container walls over the lid and object, maintaining a gap of 0.8-1.2 inches (2-3 cm) between the object and walls. Use the cut-out bottom as an insert if the walls are too distant from the object. This ensures minimal silicone usage.\n\nSeal the base of the walls with clay to prevent silicone leakage.\n\nShape the clay into a ball, then into thin strands. Press these strands along the inner and outer edges of your walls. The mold box should now be sealed effectively.\n\nCertainly, here is the revised text in Markdown format:\n\n---\n\nThe initial stage is complete; begin preparing the silicone for pouring.\n\n**Preparation:**\n\nArrange the measuring jug, the silicone bottles (A and B), the stirrer, and the mold box. Ensure all materials are ready, as you must act swiftly before the silicone sets.\n\n**Mixing:**\n\nPour 250 ml (approximately 8.45 fl oz) of part A into the measuring jug, followed by 250 ml (approximately 8.45 fl oz) of part B, totaling 500 ml (approximately 16.9 fl oz) of silicone. Mix the silicone thoroughly and quickly with your stirrer to ensure proper setting.\n\nPouring:\nFocus on the highest point and center of the object. Pour directly onto the most detailed section first, then move around the object to ensure the silicone covers every surface evenly. Allow the silicone to set for approximately 30 minutes.\n\nCleanup:\nLeave the excess silicone on the jug and stirrer to dry for 30 minutes. Once dry, peel off the silicone, leaving the jug and stirrer clean.\n\nAfter 30 minutes (or when the silicone is no longer sticky), release the mold by removing the clay from the edges of the container and silicone mold. Stretch the sides of the mold to extract the object.\n\nRetain the clay and plastic container for potential future use.\n\nOnce the object is removed, the mold is ready for use.\n\nOnce the mold is released, it is ready for use.\n\nThis mold is suitable for soft plastics and works best when plastic is hand-pressed. Wear heat and chemical-resistant gloves when handling plastic.\n\nI reused plastic from another project to melt and press into the mold. You may need to sand or trim rough edges for a clean finish.\n\nSilicone will capture any surface details, so ensure accuracy during molding.\n\nI have used only soft plastics (LDPE & HDPE) with this technique, but experimentation is encouraged.", - "keywords": "silicone casting, soft plastics, mold making, silicone molds, intricate replicas, casting tutorial, reusable molds, crafting Sydney, silicone preparation, DIY casting", - "resources": "***\n\n### Tools\n\n- Measuring jug\n- Plastic stirrer\n- Knife\n- Take-away container (reused) [Common at retailers](https://www.woolworths.com.au/)\n- Clay (for sealing mold edges)\n\n### Hardware\n\n- Casting silicone (1:1 ratio, e.g., [Barnes Products Australia](https://www.barnes.com.au/))\n- Heat/chemical-resistant gloves (for handling plastics)\n- Reusable soft plastics (LDPE/HDPE)\n- Sanding/trimming tools (for finishing)\n- Object to be cast\n\n### Software\n\nNo specific software required for this process.\n\n***", - "references": "## References\n\n### Articles\n\n- [The beginner's guide to mold making and casting](https://blog.prusa3d.com/the-beginners-guide-to-mold-making-and-casting_31561/)\n- [Trying My Hand At: Mold Making and Casting With Silicone RTV](https://www.instructables.com/Trying-my-hand-at-Mold-Making-and-Casting-with-Si/)\n- [How to Make Two-Part Silicone Molds for Resin Casting](https://www.siliconeab.com/tutorial/silicone-mold-casting-pu-resin.html)\n- [Casting Silicone Parts in 3D Printed Molds](https://formlabs.com/blog/casting-silicone-guide/)\n- [Silicone Mold Overview](https://cirexfoundry.com/prototyping/techniques/silicone-mold/)\n- [How to Make Silicone Molds: A Practical Guide](https://formlabs.com/blog/how-to-make-silicone-molds/)\n\n### Books\n\n- [Mold Making and Casting Guide Book](https://composimoldstore.com/mold-making-and-casting-guide/)\n- [Cast Like Magic: A Beginner's Guide to Mold Making and Resin Casting](https://www.punishedprops.com/shop/cast-like-magic-folkenstal-ebook/)\n\n### Papers\n\n- [Volume-Aware Design of Composite Molds](https://opus.lib.uts.edu.au/bitstream/10453/137699/4/composite_compressed.pdf)\n- [Silicone v1.0.0: Inferring Anthropogenic Emissions](https://gmd.copernicus.org/articles/13/5259/2020/)\n\n### YouTube\n\n- [Metamolds: Computational Design of Silicone Molds](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7M2TbQnRLNg)\n\n### Opensource Designs\n\n- [Handcrafting Silicone Dildos Guide](https://github.com/starkatt/Cocksmithing/blob/main/cocksmithing.md)", - "brief": "Learn how to cast objects in silicone to create reusable molds for replicating intricate items in soft plastics, perfect for delicate and detailed projects." + "content": "This tutorial will show you how to cast an object in silicone to use with soft plastics. Casting with silicone will allow you to remake intricate, delicate or unusual objects in plastic. \n\nYou can get as experimental as you wish casting simples items such as a vase or something as extreme as a tree! Don’t worry you will be able to use this mould over and over again.\n\n\nUser Location: Sydney, Australia\n\nBefore we begin make sure you have the right tools.\n\nYou will need:\nCasting silicone (equal part 1:1)\nMeasuring jug\nPlastic stirrer\nTake-away container (recycled of course!)\nClay\nKnife\nYour chosen object\n\nFor this tutorial I have used 500ml of silicone for an object which measures (h)10x(w)2.5x(l)3cm.\nMake sure you have a clean work space and all your tools are ready. Silicone sets fast and can be costly to waste\n\nFirst clean your object of dirt or dust.\n \nUsing clay place a small strip to the back of your object making sure the object sits flat when placed down—this will become the entry for your plastic once the mould is complete.\n\nBe sure to cover any wholes and neaten the edges with a knife cutting away any excess.\nPlace the object facing upwards onto the take-away container lid.\n\nNow you are ready to build the walls of your mould box.\n\nAs take-away containers usually have uneven bases cut out the bottom of the container using a knife. You should be left with the container edges, the bottom and the lid. The container edges will be used as the walls of the box, the bottom will be used as an additional wall and the lid will become the bottom of your box.\n\nPlace the walls of the container over the lid and object. Leave a 2-3cm gap between the object and the walls. If the walls are too far from the object use the additional wall (the cut out bottom) as an insert to get closer to the object. \nThe closer you are to your object the less silicone you waste!\n\n\nOnce you have the right area around the object we need to seal the base of the walls with clay so the silicone does not escape. \n\nRoll the clay into a ball and then into thin noodles. Press the noodles along the edges off your walls inside and out. The mould box should now be silicone tight!\n\nThe hardest part is over! Now it's time to prepare the silicone for pouring.\n\nPreparation:\nLine up the measuring jug, the silicone bottles (A) and (B), the stirrer and the mould box. Remember you must work fast before the silicone sets so you must have everything ready to go.\nMixing:\nAdd 250ml of part A into the measuring jug, then add 250ml of B. This should equal 500ml of silicone in the jug.\nNow quickly mix the silicone with your stirrer. Be sure that the mixture is thoroughly mixed otherwise your silicone will not set properly.\n\nPouring:\nConcentrate on the highest point and the centre of the object—pour directly onto the most detailed section first, then moving around the object making sure the silicone reaches every part of the surface and the object is evenly coated.\nLeave the silicone to set (approx 30 mins)\n\nCleanup:\nLeave the excess silicone on your jug and stirrer. Let it to dry fro 30 mins. Once dry the silicone can be pealed off leaving the jug and stirrer perfectly clean.\n\n\nAfter 30mins or after the silicone stops being sticky you may release your mould. To do this you must remove the clay from the edges of your container and silicone mould. Once the clay is removed from the container and the silicone, stretch the sides of the mould to remove the object.\n\nKeep the clay and the plastic container as you may use them again.\n\nOnce the Object is removed you are ready to use the mould!\n\nOnce the mould is released you are ready to begin using it.\n\nPlease note; this mould is suitable for soft plastics. This mould is best when plastic is hand-pressed into the mould. Be sure that you are using heat and chemical resistant gloves when handling the plastic. \n\nFor this mould I have reused plastic from another project to melt and press into my mould. \nYou may need to sand or cut off some messy edges to complete the look you want.\n\nSilicone will capture any surface as will your plastic when being moulded so go big or go home!\n\n\nNote: I have only used soft plastics (LDPE & HDPE) with this technique but please feel free to experiment." } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/make-a-simple--efficient-500mm-x-300-mm-sheet/README.md b/howtos/make-a-simple--efficient-500mm-x-300-mm-sheet/README.md index 0d7a33dff..015a527e7 100644 --- a/howtos/make-a-simple--efficient-500mm-x-300-mm-sheet/README.md +++ b/howtos/make-a-simple--efficient-500mm-x-300-mm-sheet/README.md @@ -1,56 +1,59 @@ --- title: Make a simple & efficient 500mm x 300 mm sheet slug: make-a-simple--efficient-500mm-x-300-mm-sheet -description: # Large Craft Sheet Design +description: This is Zero Plastics Australia's Large craft sheet design, In our opinion a must need for any workspace. -## Materials Needed: -- Sheet press -- 1.76 lbs (800 grams) granulated plastic -- 1 aluminum frame -- 2 aluminum base plates -- Stanley knife and paint scraper (for gently separating the aluminum plates) +MATERIALS NEEDED: +Sheet press +800grams granulated plastic +1 aluminum frame +2 aluminum base plates +Stanley knife and paint scraper (this will help you to gently pry apart the aluminum plates. -## Process: -- Cooking: 20-30 mins -- Cooling: 20-30 mins -- Tidy up: 5-10 mins +Cooking - 20-30 mins +Cooling - 20-30 mins +Tidy up - 5-10 mins + +Zero.plastics.australia@gmail.com tags: ["product","HDPE","melting","mould","sheetpress","compression"] category: Guides difficulty: Medium time: < 5 hours -keywords: large craft sheet design, granulated plastic sheet, aluminum frame usage, sheet press process, HDPE sheet melting, Ballarat craft materials, DIY plastic sheets, aluminum base plates, plastic sheet cooling, Zero Plastics Australia +keywords: location: Ballarat, Australia --- # Make a simple & efficient 500mm x 300 mm sheet ![Make a simple & efficient 500mm x 300 mm sheet](196262809_344431647079441_3023982204595924153_n.jpg) -# Large Craft Sheet Design +This is Zero Plastics Australia's Large craft sheet design, In our opinion a must need for any workspace. -## Materials Needed: -- Sheet press -- 1.76 lbs (800 grams) granulated plastic -- 1 aluminum frame -- 2 aluminum base plates -- Stanley knife and paint scraper (for gently separating the aluminum plates) +MATERIALS NEEDED: +Sheet press +800grams granulated plastic +1 aluminum frame +2 aluminum base plates +Stanley knife and paint scraper (this will help you to gently pry apart the aluminum plates. -## Process: -- Cooking: 20-30 mins -- Cooling: 20-30 mins -- Tidy up: 5-10 mins +Cooking - 20-30 mins +Cooling - 20-30 mins +Tidy up - 5-10 mins + +Zero.plastics.australia@gmail.com User Location: Ballarat, Australia ## Steps ### Step 1: Preparing the mould -You require two base plates and one aluminum frame. A thick border is advisable to reduce bending. Place one base plate with the aluminum frame, evenly fill with plastic granules, and position the other base plate on top to form a sandwich before closing. +You need 2 base plates and one aluminum frame (we highly recommend having a thick border, the frame will bend less easily) +Lay 1 base plate and the aluminum frame down, fill evenly with the plastic granules, then lay the second base plate on top, like a sandwich before closing. ![224199397_367670821405034_3085572952599806449_n.jpg](./224199397_367670821405034_3085572952599806449_n.jpg) ### Step 2: Preparing the machine -Turn on your machine. Set the temperature based on the plastic; for HDPE, use 392°F (200°C). +Turn your machine on. Temperature depends on plastic used, however we use HDPE. -Close the machine tightly until you hear a click, adjusting the top knob as necessary. +Once temperature reaches 200 degrees, close the machine as tightly as you can, until you hear a click. This might take some fiddling with the knob at the top. ![2.jpg](./2.jpg) @@ -63,14 +66,16 @@ Close the machine tightly until you hear a click, adjusting the top knob as nece ### Step 3: Melting the plastic -Melting takes 20-30 minutes. Once done, remove the aluminum plates and place them on concrete, adding another slab on top for compression. Additional weight is beneficial. Allow to cool for 30 minutes to avoid potential issues. +Melting takes 20-30 minutes. Once completed, pull the aluminum plates out and set aside on the concrete, we lay another slab of concrete on top for compression. (extra weight doesn't hurt) Let it sit for 30 minutes to cool. Be patient with this, because doing it sooner can cause issues. ![208312738_561611505248788_6036887890691209982_n.jpg](./208312738_561611505248788_6036887890691209982_n.jpg) ### Step 4: Tidy up -Use a paint scraper to gently separate the plates. If you discover an improved method, please share it. A Stanley knife can help free a stuck sheet; carefully trim the edges for a clean result. +This is where the paint scraper is needed. Place it into the gap and gently pry the plates apart. please do test mould release and other ways, if you find a better way please let us know. +You can use the Stanley knife to gently carve out the sheet if it gets stuck. +Then take your time to gently carve the borders to clean up your sheet. ![209474903_342955087274669_8876330015513898172_n.jpg](./209474903_342955087274669_8876330015513898172_n.jpg) @@ -80,43 +85,20 @@ Use a paint scraper to gently separate the plates. If you discover an improved m ### Step 5: Experiment with colours -### Instructions +Now that your done, experiment with colours and patterns. -Upon completion, explore colors and patterns. +Give us a like on +Facebook facebook.com: facebook.com/ZeroPlasticsAustralia +and +Instagram @Zeroplasticsaustralia +and if you have any questions send us an email at Zero.plastics.australia@gmail.com -For inquiries, please contact Zero.plastics.australia@gmail.com. +Thanks and happy recycling! -Visit us at www.zeroplasticsaustralia.com. +www.zeroplasticsaustralia.com ![196262809_344431647079441_3023982204595924153_n.jpg](./196262809_344431647079441_3023982204595924153_n.jpg) ## Resources -To create a large craft sheet using the described method, the following tools and equipment are required: - -### Tools - -- ~~[Stanley knife](www.zeroplasticsaustralia.com)~~ -- ~~[Paint scraper](www.zeroplasticsaustralia.com)~~ - -### Software - -- Not explicitly mentioned in the tutorial - -### Hardware - -- ~~[Sheet press](www.zeroplasticsaustralia.com)~~ -- ~~[Aluminum frame](www.zeroplasticsaustralia.com)~~ -- ~~[Aluminum base plates](www.zeroplasticsaustralia.com)~~ - -All listed items are sourced via the provided tutorial materials and linked to the manufacturer’s website for reference. -## References -## References - -### Website - -- [zeroplasticsaustralia.com](http://www.zeroplasticsaustralia.com) - -### Contact - -- \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/make-a-simple--efficient-500mm-x-300-mm-sheet/config.json b/howtos/make-a-simple--efficient-500mm-x-300-mm-sheet/config.json index 891ee3bb1..f86d517be 100644 --- a/howtos/make-a-simple--efficient-500mm-x-300-mm-sheet/config.json +++ b/howtos/make-a-simple--efficient-500mm-x-300-mm-sheet/config.json @@ -1,7 +1,7 @@ { "time": "< 5 hours", "_deleted": false, - "description": "# Large Craft Sheet Design\n\n## Materials Needed:\n- Sheet press\n- 1.76 lbs (800 grams) granulated plastic\n- 1 aluminum frame\n- 2 aluminum base plates\n- Stanley knife and paint scraper (for gently separating the aluminum plates)\n\n## Process:\n- Cooking: 20-30 mins\n- Cooling: 20-30 mins\n- Tidy up: 5-10 mins", + "description": "This is Zero Plastics Australia's Large craft sheet design, In our opinion a must need for any workspace.\n\nMATERIALS NEEDED:\nSheet press\n800grams granulated plastic \n1 aluminum frame\n2 aluminum base plates\nStanley knife and paint scraper (this will help you to gently pry apart the aluminum plates.\n\nCooking - 20-30 mins\nCooling - 20-30 mins\nTidy up - 5-10 mins\n\nZero.plastics.australia@gmail.com", "_modified": "2024-01-29T03:47:49.804Z", "slug": "make-a-simple--efficient-500mm-x-300-mm-sheet", "files": [], @@ -43,7 +43,7 @@ { "_animationKey": "uniqueo42but", "title": "Preparing the mould", - "text": "You require two base plates and one aluminum frame. A thick border is advisable to reduce bending. Place one base plate with the aluminum frame, evenly fill with plastic granules, and position the other base plate on top to form a sandwich before closing.", + "text": "You need 2 base plates and one aluminum frame (we highly recommend having a thick border, the frame will bend less easily)\nLay 1 base plate and the aluminum frame down, fill evenly with the plastic granules, then lay the second base plate on top, like a sandwich before closing.", "images": [ { "fullPath": "uploads/howtos/1sSR6tGWyfy5HvdqFXyS/224199397_367670821405034_3085572952599806449_n.jpg", @@ -98,7 +98,7 @@ "alt": "4.jpg" } ], - "text": "Turn on your machine. Set the temperature based on the plastic; for HDPE, use 392°F (200°C). \n\nClose the machine tightly until you hear a click, adjusting the top knob as necessary.", + "text": "Turn your machine on. Temperature depends on plastic used, however we use HDPE.\n\nOnce temperature reaches 200 degrees, close the machine as tightly as you can, until you hear a click. This might take some fiddling with the knob at the top.", "_animationKey": "unique1", "title": "Preparing the machine" }, @@ -119,10 +119,10 @@ "alt": "208312738_561611505248788_6036887890691209982_n.jpg" } ], - "text": "Melting takes 20-30 minutes. Once done, remove the aluminum plates and place them on concrete, adding another slab on top for compression. Additional weight is beneficial. Allow to cool for 30 minutes to avoid potential issues." + "text": "Melting takes 20-30 minutes. Once completed, pull the aluminum plates out and set aside on the concrete, we lay another slab of concrete on top for compression. (extra weight doesn't hurt) Let it sit for 30 minutes to cool. Be patient with this, because doing it sooner can cause issues." }, { - "text": "Use a paint scraper to gently separate the plates. If you discover an improved method, please share it. A Stanley knife can help free a stuck sheet; carefully trim the edges for a clean result.", + "text": "This is where the paint scraper is needed. Place it into the gap and gently pry the plates apart. please do test mould release and other ways, if you find a better way please let us know. \nYou can use the Stanley knife to gently carve out the sheet if it gets stuck.\nThen take your time to gently carve the borders to clean up your sheet.", "title": "Tidy up", "images": [ { @@ -168,7 +168,7 @@ } ], "_animationKey": "unique8iyg4e", - "text": "### Instructions \n\nUpon completion, explore colors and patterns.\n\nFor inquiries, please contact Zero.plastics.australia@gmail.com.\n\nVisit us at www.zeroplasticsaustralia.com.", + "text": "Now that your done, experiment with colours and patterns. \n\nGive us a like on \nFacebook facebook.com: facebook.com/ZeroPlasticsAustralia\nand \nInstagram @Zeroplasticsaustralia\nand if you have any questions send us an email at Zero.plastics.australia@gmail.com\n\nThanks and happy recycling! \n\nwww.zeroplasticsaustralia.com", "title": "Experiment with colours" } ], @@ -374,9 +374,5 @@ "urls": [] } }, - "content": "# Large Craft Sheet Design\n\n## Materials Needed:\n- Sheet press\n- 1.76 lbs (800 grams) granulated plastic\n- 1 aluminum frame\n- 2 aluminum base plates\n- Stanley knife and paint scraper (for gently separating the aluminum plates)\n\n## Process:\n- Cooking: 20-30 mins\n- Cooling: 20-30 mins\n- Tidy up: 5-10 mins\n\n\nUser Location: Ballarat, Australia\n\nYou require two base plates and one aluminum frame. A thick border is advisable to reduce bending. Place one base plate with the aluminum frame, evenly fill with plastic granules, and position the other base plate on top to form a sandwich before closing.\n\nTurn on your machine. Set the temperature based on the plastic; for HDPE, use 392°F (200°C). \n\nClose the machine tightly until you hear a click, adjusting the top knob as necessary.\n\nMelting takes 20-30 minutes. Once done, remove the aluminum plates and place them on concrete, adding another slab on top for compression. Additional weight is beneficial. Allow to cool for 30 minutes to avoid potential issues.\n\nUse a paint scraper to gently separate the plates. If you discover an improved method, please share it. A Stanley knife can help free a stuck sheet; carefully trim the edges for a clean result.\n\n### Instructions \n\nUpon completion, explore colors and patterns.\n\nFor inquiries, please contact Zero.plastics.australia@gmail.com.\n\nVisit us at www.zeroplasticsaustralia.com.", - "keywords": "large craft sheet design, granulated plastic sheet, aluminum frame usage, sheet press process, HDPE sheet melting, Ballarat craft materials, DIY plastic sheets, aluminum base plates, plastic sheet cooling, Zero Plastics Australia", - "resources": "To create a large craft sheet using the described method, the following tools and equipment are required:\n\n### Tools\n\n- ~~[Stanley knife](www.zeroplasticsaustralia.com)~~\n- ~~[Paint scraper](www.zeroplasticsaustralia.com)~~\n\n### Software\n\n- Not explicitly mentioned in the tutorial\n\n### Hardware\n\n- ~~[Sheet press](www.zeroplasticsaustralia.com)~~\n- ~~[Aluminum frame](www.zeroplasticsaustralia.com)~~\n- ~~[Aluminum base plates](www.zeroplasticsaustralia.com)~~\n\nAll listed items are sourced via the provided tutorial materials and linked to the manufacturer’s website for reference.", - "references": "## References\n\n### Website\n\n- [zeroplasticsaustralia.com](http://www.zeroplasticsaustralia.com)\n\n### Contact\n\n- ", - "brief": "Craft large plastic sheets at home using granulated plastic, aluminum frames, and base plates. Perfect thickness & smooth edges with detailed step-by-step instructions." + "content": "This is Zero Plastics Australia's Large craft sheet design, In our opinion a must need for any workspace.\n\nMATERIALS NEEDED:\nSheet press\n800grams granulated plastic \n1 aluminum frame\n2 aluminum base plates\nStanley knife and paint scraper (this will help you to gently pry apart the aluminum plates.\n\nCooking - 20-30 mins\nCooling - 20-30 mins\nTidy up - 5-10 mins\n\nZero.plastics.australia@gmail.com\n\n\nUser Location: Ballarat, Australia\n\nYou need 2 base plates and one aluminum frame (we highly recommend having a thick border, the frame will bend less easily)\nLay 1 base plate and the aluminum frame down, fill evenly with the plastic granules, then lay the second base plate on top, like a sandwich before closing.\n\nTurn your machine on. Temperature depends on plastic used, however we use HDPE.\n\nOnce temperature reaches 200 degrees, close the machine as tightly as you can, until you hear a click. This might take some fiddling with the knob at the top.\n\nMelting takes 20-30 minutes. Once completed, pull the aluminum plates out and set aside on the concrete, we lay another slab of concrete on top for compression. (extra weight doesn't hurt) Let it sit for 30 minutes to cool. Be patient with this, because doing it sooner can cause issues.\n\nThis is where the paint scraper is needed. Place it into the gap and gently pry the plates apart. please do test mould release and other ways, if you find a better way please let us know. \nYou can use the Stanley knife to gently carve out the sheet if it gets stuck.\nThen take your time to gently carve the borders to clean up your sheet.\n\nNow that your done, experiment with colours and patterns. \n\nGive us a like on \nFacebook facebook.com: facebook.com/ZeroPlasticsAustralia\nand \nInstagram @Zeroplasticsaustralia\nand if you have any questions send us an email at Zero.plastics.australia@gmail.com\n\nThanks and happy recycling! \n\nwww.zeroplasticsaustralia.com" } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/make-a-squat-stool/README.md b/howtos/make-a-squat-stool/README.md index 8859e7b69..2a2672b45 100644 --- a/howtos/make-a-squat-stool/README.md +++ b/howtos/make-a-squat-stool/README.md @@ -1,86 +1,49 @@ --- title: Make a Squat Stool slug: make-a-squat-stool -description: I offer a flat-pack design accessory for English-style toilets that improves posture, enhancing internal body alignment and aiding digestive health. This is particularly beneficial for the younger generation to promote proper toilet usage technique. +description: I am a flat pack design utility add on to existing toilets using english WC's to heal correcting the posture which improves the internal architecture of human body and heals many of stomach related disfunctions, improves the digestion system. +Me realized in the young generation of today's to correct the posture of using WC the way it was suppose tags: ["mould","HDPE","compression","starterkit"] category: Products difficulty: Easy time: < 1 hour -keywords: toilet posture accessory, digestive health aid, flat-pack toilet design, English toilet accessory, CNC toilet part, proper toilet usage, toilet alignment product, Delhi toilet accessory, posture improvement toilet, CAD toilet design +keywords: location: Delhi, India --- # Make a Squat Stool ![Make a Squat Stool](feed_7_2.png) -I offer a flat-pack design accessory for English-style toilets that improves posture, enhancing internal body alignment and aiding digestive health. This is particularly beneficial for the younger generation to promote proper toilet usage technique. +I am a flat pack design utility add on to existing toilets using english WC's to heal correcting the posture which improves the internal architecture of human body and heals many of stomach related disfunctions, improves the digestion system. +Me realized in the young generation of today's to correct the posture of using WC the way it was suppose User Location: Delhi, India ## Steps ### Step 1: Take sheet of 12mm thickness -The sheet should be 12mm (approximately 0.47 inches) thick for precise grooving, with dimensions of 4ft x 4ft (approximately 1.22m x 1.22m). If your sheet's thickness differs from 12mm, adjust the grooves in the CAD file accordingly. +The sheet has to be of 12mm for the exact grooving composition, and size can be of 4ftx 4ft. If your sheet thickness varies then 12mm please adjust the grooves in cad file ![ds.PNG](./ds.PNG) ### Step 2: Get cad file in CNC machine -The CAD file should be converted into a CNC machine file format for processing. +The cad file is supposed to be converted in cnc machine file format and let the machine do its job, ![nknkj.PNG](./nknkj.PNG) ### Step 3: Buff the edges -Polish the edges for a smooth finish. +Buff the edges for a cleaner finish ![maxresdefault.jpg](./maxresdefault.jpg) ### Step 4: Assemble the product -Please assemble the product according to the instructions in the provided document. +assemble the product as mentioned in the following document. ![mll.PNG](./mll.PNG) ## Resources -### Tools - -- [CNC machine](https://www.cncmachines.com/) for sheet cutting -- Edge polishing tools (sander/CNC Router) -- Digital calipers for thickness measurement -- Clamps for assembly stabilization -- Safety gloves/goggles - -### Software - -- [AutoCAD](https://www.autodesk.com/products/autocad) (CAD design/adjustments) -- [Vectric Aspire](https://www.vectric.com/) (CAD-to-CNC file conversion) -- CNC control software (e.g., [Mach3](https://www.machsupport.com/)) -- PDF viewer for assembly instructions - -### Hardware - -- 12mm thick MDF/plywood sheet (4ft x 4ft) -- Wood screws/dowels for flat-pack assembly -- 180-220 grit sandpaper for edge polishing -- [CNC CNC Router bits](https://www.boschtools.com/) (grooving/finishing) -- Lubricant for CNC machine maintenance -## References -## Articles - -- [Body-Aligning Toilet Stools - Trend Hunter](https://www.trendhunter.com/trends/bathroom-toilet-stool) -- [Accessories in Public Restrooms | ADA Guidelines](https://www.harborcitysupply.com/blog/accessories-in-public-restrooms-ada-guidelines/) -- [Aesthetic toilet accessory that helps you squat while you s*it or pee](https://hendriksenpublishing.com/2020/05/22/patents-pending-aesthetic-toilet-accessory-that-helps-you-squat-while-you-sit-or-pee/) -- [Movable Position Toilet Back Support - Medschenker](https://medschenker.com/toilet-back-support-movable-position/) -- [From CAD to CNC in 3 Steps](https://www.machinedesign.com/3d-printing-cad/article/21837356/from-cad-to-cnc-in-3-steps) -- [The history of the revolutionary IKEA flatpacks](https://www.ikea.com/ph/en/this-is-ikea/about-us/the-story-of-ikea-flatpacks-puba710ccb0/) - -## Papers - -- [TILT ON THE TOILET - Senior Design Day](https://www.hajim.rochester.edu/senior-design-day/commode-for-neurogenic-bowel/) - -## YouTube - -- [How to build flat pack bathroom furniture](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n2r79ZAMgIE) -- [Ballscrew CNC Conversion Kits - Free Fusion360 CAD Files](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wx8238bGSCY) \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/make-a-squat-stool/config.json b/howtos/make-a-squat-stool/config.json index 0c89dd1bf..935018f47 100644 --- a/howtos/make-a-squat-stool/config.json +++ b/howtos/make-a-squat-stool/config.json @@ -2,7 +2,7 @@ "files": [ null ], - "description": "I offer a flat-pack design accessory for English-style toilets that improves posture, enhancing internal body alignment and aiding digestive health. This is particularly beneficial for the younger generation to promote proper toilet usage technique.", + "description": "I am a flat pack design utility add on to existing toilets using english WC's to heal correcting the posture which improves the internal architecture of human body and heals many of stomach related disfunctions, improves the digestion system.\nMe realized in the young generation of today's to correct the posture of using WC the way it was suppose", "slug": "make-a-squat-stool", "fileLink": "", "_id": "E2ZW3K8XYRLUklf5m1tv", @@ -77,7 +77,7 @@ ], "title": "Take sheet of 12mm thickness ", "_animationKey": "unique1", - "text": "The sheet should be 12mm (approximately 0.47 inches) thick for precise grooving, with dimensions of 4ft x 4ft (approximately 1.22m x 1.22m). If your sheet's thickness differs from 12mm, adjust the grooves in the CAD file accordingly." + "text": "The sheet has to be of 12mm for the exact grooving composition, and size can be of 4ftx 4ft. If your sheet thickness varies then 12mm please adjust the grooves in cad file " }, { "_animationKey": "unique2", @@ -96,10 +96,10 @@ "alt": "nknkj.PNG" } ], - "text": "The CAD file should be converted into a CNC machine file format for processing." + "text": "The cad file is supposed to be converted in cnc machine file format and let the machine do its job, " }, { - "text": "Polish the edges for a smooth finish.", + "text": "Buff the edges for a cleaner finish ", "_animationKey": "unique3", "title": "Buff the edges ", "images": [ @@ -119,7 +119,7 @@ }, { "_animationKey": "uniquehhoqp", - "text": "Please assemble the product according to the instructions in the provided document.", + "text": "assemble the product as mentioned in the following document.", "images": [ { "size": 36716, @@ -300,9 +300,5 @@ "urls": [] } }, - "content": "I offer a flat-pack design accessory for English-style toilets that improves posture, enhancing internal body alignment and aiding digestive health. This is particularly beneficial for the younger generation to promote proper toilet usage technique.\n\n\nUser Location: Delhi, India\n\nThe sheet should be 12mm (approximately 0.47 inches) thick for precise grooving, with dimensions of 4ft x 4ft (approximately 1.22m x 1.22m). If your sheet's thickness differs from 12mm, adjust the grooves in the CAD file accordingly.\n\nThe CAD file should be converted into a CNC machine file format for processing.\n\nPolish the edges for a smooth finish.\n\nPlease assemble the product according to the instructions in the provided document.", - "keywords": "toilet posture accessory, digestive health aid, flat-pack toilet design, English toilet accessory, CNC toilet part, proper toilet usage, toilet alignment product, Delhi toilet accessory, posture improvement toilet, CAD toilet design", - "resources": "### Tools\n\n- [CNC machine](https://www.cncmachines.com/) for sheet cutting\n- Edge polishing tools (sander/CNC Router)\n- Digital calipers for thickness measurement\n- Clamps for assembly stabilization\n- Safety gloves/goggles\n\n### Software\n\n- [AutoCAD](https://www.autodesk.com/products/autocad) (CAD design/adjustments)\n- [Vectric Aspire](https://www.vectric.com/) (CAD-to-CNC file conversion)\n- CNC control software (e.g., [Mach3](https://www.machsupport.com/))\n- PDF viewer for assembly instructions\n\n### Hardware\n\n- 12mm thick MDF/plywood sheet (4ft x 4ft)\n- Wood screws/dowels for flat-pack assembly\n- 180-220 grit sandpaper for edge polishing\n- [CNC CNC Router bits](https://www.boschtools.com/) (grooving/finishing)\n- Lubricant for CNC machine maintenance", - "references": "## Articles\n\n- [Body-Aligning Toilet Stools - Trend Hunter](https://www.trendhunter.com/trends/bathroom-toilet-stool)\n- [Accessories in Public Restrooms | ADA Guidelines](https://www.harborcitysupply.com/blog/accessories-in-public-restrooms-ada-guidelines/)\n- [Aesthetic toilet accessory that helps you squat while you s*it or pee](https://hendriksenpublishing.com/2020/05/22/patents-pending-aesthetic-toilet-accessory-that-helps-you-squat-while-you-sit-or-pee/)\n- [Movable Position Toilet Back Support - Medschenker](https://medschenker.com/toilet-back-support-movable-position/)\n- [From CAD to CNC in 3 Steps](https://www.machinedesign.com/3d-printing-cad/article/21837356/from-cad-to-cnc-in-3-steps)\n- [The history of the revolutionary IKEA flatpacks](https://www.ikea.com/ph/en/this-is-ikea/about-us/the-story-of-ikea-flatpacks-puba710ccb0/)\n\n## Papers\n\n- [TILT ON THE TOILET - Senior Design Day](https://www.hajim.rochester.edu/senior-design-day/commode-for-neurogenic-bowel/)\n\n## YouTube\n\n- [How to build flat pack bathroom furniture](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n2r79ZAMgIE)\n- [Ballscrew CNC Conversion Kits - Free Fusion360 CAD Files](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wx8238bGSCY)", - "brief": "Enhance digestive health with our flat-pack accessory for English-style toilets, promoting proper posture and alignment. Ideal for the younger generation." + "content": "I am a flat pack design utility add on to existing toilets using english WC's to heal correcting the posture which improves the internal architecture of human body and heals many of stomach related disfunctions, improves the digestion system.\nMe realized in the young generation of today's to correct the posture of using WC the way it was suppose\n\n\nUser Location: Delhi, India\n\nThe sheet has to be of 12mm for the exact grooving composition, and size can be of 4ftx 4ft. If your sheet thickness varies then 12mm please adjust the grooves in cad file \n\nThe cad file is supposed to be converted in cnc machine file format and let the machine do its job, \n\nBuff the edges for a cleaner finish \n\nassemble the product as mentioned in the following document." } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/make-a-stool-with-upcycled-petg-3d-print-waste/README.md b/howtos/make-a-stool-with-upcycled-petg-3d-print-waste/README.md index 43650d5ba..26d8d07f1 100644 --- a/howtos/make-a-stool-with-upcycled-petg-3d-print-waste/README.md +++ b/howtos/make-a-stool-with-upcycled-petg-3d-print-waste/README.md @@ -1,30 +1,31 @@ --- title: Make a stool with upcycled PETG 3D print waste slug: make-a-stool-with-upcycled-petg-3d-print-waste -description: This guide will instruct you on converting 3D print waste into design objects using a shredder, sheet press, and CNC. +description: In this How-To we'll teach you how to transform 3D print waste in design objects, using a shredder, a sheetpress and a CNC tags: ["sheetpress","other machine","product","shredder"] category: uncategorized difficulty: Medium time: < 1 day -keywords: 3D print waste recycling, plastic waste conversion, 3D print leftover uses, CNC design projects, plastic shredding process, sheet press application, recycling PLA PETG ABS, DIY recycled furniture, sustainable design objects, upcycled stool creation. +keywords: location: Calenzano, Italy --- # Make a stool with upcycled PETG 3D print waste ![Make a stool with upcycled PETG 3D print waste](20230315_152528-18a5f104891.jpg) -This guide will instruct you on converting 3D print waste into design objects using a shredder, sheet press, and CNC. +In this How-To we'll teach you how to transform 3D print waste in design objects, using a shredder, a sheetpress and a CNC User Location: Calenzano, Italy ## Steps ### Step 1: Collect plastic -First, collect all plastic waste from your 3D prints, such as supports or defective prints. Sort the waste by plastic type, such as PLA, PETG, and ABS. +First of all you have to collects all the plastic waste that came from your 3D print like supports or corrupted prints +Divide it in type of plastic like PLA, PETG, ABS etc... ![Screenshot_20230830_124924_Gallery-18a5119b7de.jpg](./Screenshot_20230830_124924_Gallery-18a5119b7de.jpg) ### Step 2: Begin to shredd -At this stage, shred the material and gather it. Determine the number of shredding cycles based on the desired size. +At this point you have to shred the material and collect it. Decide how many times to pass it from the shredder according to the size you want to collect ![20230831_114152-18a511c7317.jpg](./20230831_114152-18a511c7317.jpg) @@ -37,14 +38,14 @@ At this stage, shred the material and gather it. Determine the number of shreddi ### Step 3: Now it's time for the sheetpress -Now we place all our chopped plastic into the 39x39 in (1x1 m) mold, insert it into the sheet press, and create the plastic sheet. +Now we place all our chopped plastic in the 1X1MT mold, we put it into the sheetpress and we create our upcycled plastic sheet ![20230711_120925-18a512093f5.jpg](./20230711_120925-18a512093f5.jpg) ### Step 4: Time for the CNC -We place our 3.28x3.28 ft sheet, cut into 13.78x13.78 in pieces, under the CNC to create rounded pieces with a diameter of 11.81 in. +Now we put our 1X1MT sheet, cutted in 35X35CM pieces under the CNC and we create rouded pieces with a diameter of 30CM ![Screenshot_20230901_160800_Gallery-18a51219968.jpg](./Screenshot_20230901_160800_Gallery-18a51219968.jpg) @@ -54,7 +55,7 @@ We place our 3.28x3.28 ft sheet, cut into 13.78x13.78 in pieces, under the CNC t ### Step 5: Work is done -The final step is to drill the plastic discs and attach them to a metal base to complete the stool. +Now all that remains is to drill the recycled plastic discs to be fixed to a metal base, and here is our stool ![20230831_115246-18a5122e6d1.jpg](./20230831_115246-18a5122e6d1.jpg) @@ -63,53 +64,4 @@ The final step is to drill the plastic discs and attach them to a metal base to ![20230315_152528-18a5122f2a3.jpg](./20230315_152528-18a5122f2a3.jpg) ## Resources -### Tools - -- Drill ([Example](https://www.amazon.it/s?k=power+drill)) -- Metal base components ([Example](https://www.amazon.it/s?k=metal+base+hardware)) - -### Hardware - -- Plastic shredder ([Example](https://www.amazon.it/s?k=plastic+shredder)) -- Sheet press ([Example](https://www.amazon.it/s?k=hydraulic+sheet+press)) -- CNC machine ([Example](https://www.amazon.it/s?k=cnc+CNC Router)) -- 1x1m mold (~~[Custom fabrication guide](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:12345)~~) -- Calipers for measurements ([Example](https://www.amazon.it/s?k=digital+calipers)) - -### Software - -- CNC control software ([Example: GRBL](https://github.com/gnea/grbl)) -- CAD/CAM software for design ([Example: Fusion 360](https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360)) - -### Materials - -- Sorted 3D print waste (PLA/PETG/ABS) -- Metal fasteners ([Example](https://www.amazon.it/s?k=metal+screws)) -## References -## References - -### Articles - -- [3D Printing Recycling: For Sustainability - JLC3DP](https://jlc3dp.com/blog/3d-printing-recycling-for-sustainability) [1] -- [3D Printed Street Furniture Made from Plastic Waste - 3Dnatives](https://www.3dnatives.com/en/3d-printed-furniture-plastic-221120174/) [5] -- [3D Printer Filament Recycler Guide - INORIGIN](https://www.inorigin.eu/3d-printer-filament-recycler/) [7] -- [RecyclingFabrik's Recycling Service](https://www.fabbaloo.com/news/a-new-way-to-reuse-3d-print-scraps-recyclingfabriks-recycling-service) [13] - -### Papers - -- [Evaluation of the Viability of 3D Printing in Recycling Polymers - PMC](https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC11054724/) [4] -- ~~[3-CYCLE—A Modular Process Chain for Recycling of Plastic Waste](https://research.utwente.nl/en/publications/3-cyclea-modular-process-chain-for-recycling-of-plastic-waste-wit)~~ [15] - -### YouTube - -- [DIY Shredder Recycles 3D Printed Waste](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qoxxyttw3HQ) [8] - -### Open-Source Designs - -- [filtered] Recycling Machines [3] -- [3D Printing a Custom Work Stool - Instructables](https://www.instructables.com/Using-3D-Printing-to-Make-a-Custom-Work-Stool/) [9] - -### Others - -- [DIY Shredder - Shredii - Action BOX](https://actionbox.ca/pages/diy-shredder-shredii) [2] -- [Recycled Thermoplastics in Furniture Design (PDF)](https://repositorio-aberto.up.pt/bitstream/10216/117850/2/304124.pdf) [12] \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/make-a-stool-with-upcycled-petg-3d-print-waste/config.json b/howtos/make-a-stool-with-upcycled-petg-3d-print-waste/config.json index de48b3ed7..7fe4e40ef 100644 --- a/howtos/make-a-stool-with-upcycled-petg-3d-print-waste/config.json +++ b/howtos/make-a-stool-with-upcycled-petg-3d-print-waste/config.json @@ -20,12 +20,12 @@ "alt": "Screenshot_20230830_124924_Gallery-18a5119b7de.jpg" } ], - "text": "First, collect all plastic waste from your 3D prints, such as supports or defective prints. Sort the waste by plastic type, such as PLA, PETG, and ABS." + "text": "First of all you have to collects all the plastic waste that came from your 3D print like supports or corrupted prints\nDivide it in type of plastic like PLA, PETG, ABS etc..." }, { "_animationKey": "unique2", "title": "Begin to shredd", - "text": "At this stage, shred the material and gather it. Determine the number of shredding cycles based on the desired size.", + "text": "At this point you have to shred the material and collect it. Decide how many times to pass it from the shredder according to the size you want to collect", "images": [ { "size": 135498, @@ -80,7 +80,7 @@ "alt": "20230711_120925-18a512093f5.jpg" } ], - "text": "Now we place all our chopped plastic into the 39x39 in (1x1 m) mold, insert it into the sheet press, and create the plastic sheet.", + "text": "Now we place all our chopped plastic in the 1X1MT mold, we put it into the sheetpress and we create our upcycled plastic sheet", "_animationKey": "unique3", "title": "Now it's time for the sheetpress" }, @@ -113,10 +113,10 @@ } ], "_animationKey": "unique1r12o9", - "text": "We place our 3.28x3.28 ft sheet, cut into 13.78x13.78 in pieces, under the CNC to create rounded pieces with a diameter of 11.81 in." + "text": "Now we put our 1X1MT sheet, cutted in 35X35CM pieces under the CNC and we create rouded pieces with a diameter of 30CM" }, { - "text": "The final step is to drill the plastic discs and attach them to a metal base to complete the stool.", + "text": "Now all that remains is to drill the recycled plastic discs to be fixed to a metal base, and here is our stool", "images": [ { "type": "image/jpeg", @@ -154,7 +154,7 @@ "product", "shredder" ], - "description": "This guide will instruct you on converting 3D print waste into design objects using a shredder, sheet press, and CNC.", + "description": "In this How-To we'll teach you how to transform 3D print waste in design objects, using a shredder, a sheetpress and a CNC", "_created": "2023-09-04T07:20:29.251Z", "difficulty_level": "Medium", "files": [], @@ -329,9 +329,5 @@ "category": { "label": "uncategorized" }, - "content": "This guide will instruct you on converting 3D print waste into design objects using a shredder, sheet press, and CNC.\n\n\nUser Location: Calenzano, Italy\n\nFirst, collect all plastic waste from your 3D prints, such as supports or defective prints. Sort the waste by plastic type, such as PLA, PETG, and ABS.\n\nAt this stage, shred the material and gather it. Determine the number of shredding cycles based on the desired size.\n\nNow we place all our chopped plastic into the 39x39 in (1x1 m) mold, insert it into the sheet press, and create the plastic sheet.\n\nWe place our 3.28x3.28 ft sheet, cut into 13.78x13.78 in pieces, under the CNC to create rounded pieces with a diameter of 11.81 in.\n\nThe final step is to drill the plastic discs and attach them to a metal base to complete the stool.", - "keywords": "3D print waste recycling, plastic waste conversion, 3D print leftover uses, CNC design projects, plastic shredding process, sheet press application, recycling PLA PETG ABS, DIY recycled furniture, sustainable design objects, upcycled stool creation.", - "resources": "### Tools\n\n- Drill ([Example](https://www.amazon.it/s?k=power+drill))\n- Metal base components ([Example](https://www.amazon.it/s?k=metal+base+hardware))\n\n### Hardware\n\n- Plastic shredder ([Example](https://www.amazon.it/s?k=plastic+shredder))\n- Sheet press ([Example](https://www.amazon.it/s?k=hydraulic+sheet+press))\n- CNC machine ([Example](https://www.amazon.it/s?k=cnc+CNC Router))\n- 1x1m mold (~~[Custom fabrication guide](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:12345)~~)\n- Calipers for measurements ([Example](https://www.amazon.it/s?k=digital+calipers))\n\n### Software\n\n- CNC control software ([Example: GRBL](https://github.com/gnea/grbl))\n- CAD/CAM software for design ([Example: Fusion 360](https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360))\n\n### Materials\n\n- Sorted 3D print waste (PLA/PETG/ABS)\n- Metal fasteners ([Example](https://www.amazon.it/s?k=metal+screws))", - "references": "## References\n\n### Articles\n\n- [3D Printing Recycling: For Sustainability - JLC3DP](https://jlc3dp.com/blog/3d-printing-recycling-for-sustainability) [1]\n- [3D Printed Street Furniture Made from Plastic Waste - 3Dnatives](https://www.3dnatives.com/en/3d-printed-furniture-plastic-221120174/) [5]\n- [3D Printer Filament Recycler Guide - INORIGIN](https://www.inorigin.eu/3d-printer-filament-recycler/) [7]\n- [RecyclingFabrik's Recycling Service](https://www.fabbaloo.com/news/a-new-way-to-reuse-3d-print-scraps-recyclingfabriks-recycling-service) [13]\n\n### Papers\n\n- [Evaluation of the Viability of 3D Printing in Recycling Polymers - PMC](https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC11054724/) [4]\n- ~~[3-CYCLE—A Modular Process Chain for Recycling of Plastic Waste](https://research.utwente.nl/en/publications/3-cyclea-modular-process-chain-for-recycling-of-plastic-waste-wit)~~ [15]\n\n### YouTube\n\n- [DIY Shredder Recycles 3D Printed Waste](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qoxxyttw3HQ) [8]\n\n### Open-Source Designs\n\n- [filtered] Recycling Machines [3]\n- [3D Printing a Custom Work Stool - Instructables](https://www.instructables.com/Using-3D-Printing-to-Make-a-Custom-Work-Stool/) [9]\n\n### Others\n\n- [DIY Shredder - Shredii - Action BOX](https://actionbox.ca/pages/diy-shredder-shredii) [2]\n- [Recycled Thermoplastics in Furniture Design (PDF)](https://repositorio-aberto.up.pt/bitstream/10216/117850/2/304124.pdf) [12]", - "brief": "Learn to transform 3D print waste into design pieces with shredding, sheet pressing, and CNC techniques. Create stylish, eco-friendly stools easily." + "content": "In this How-To we'll teach you how to transform 3D print waste in design objects, using a shredder, a sheetpress and a CNC\n\n\nUser Location: Calenzano, Italy\n\nFirst of all you have to collects all the plastic waste that came from your 3D print like supports or corrupted prints\nDivide it in type of plastic like PLA, PETG, ABS etc...\n\nAt this point you have to shred the material and collect it. Decide how many times to pass it from the shredder according to the size you want to collect\n\nNow we place all our chopped plastic in the 1X1MT mold, we put it into the sheetpress and we create our upcycled plastic sheet\n\nNow we put our 1X1MT sheet, cutted in 35X35CM pieces under the CNC and we create rouded pieces with a diameter of 30CM\n\nNow all that remains is to drill the recycled plastic discs to be fixed to a metal base, and here is our stool" } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/make-a4-size-clipboard/README.md b/howtos/make-a4-size-clipboard/README.md index 890c7963a..a328df896 100644 --- a/howtos/make-a4-size-clipboard/README.md +++ b/howtos/make-a4-size-clipboard/README.md @@ -1,40 +1,44 @@ --- title: Make A4 size clipboard slug: make-a4-size-clipboard -description: Create a bespoke clipboard from repurposed plastic. Board dimensions: 12.4x9.1 inches (315x230 mm) with a thickness of 0.2 inches (5 mm) and four corner radii of 0.3 inches (R8). +description: Make original clipboard from recycled plastic material. Board size is 315x230 mm thickness 5mm, 4x radius R8 in corners. tags: ["mould","compression","HDPE"] category: Products difficulty: Easy time: < 5 hours -keywords: bespoke clipboard, repurposed plastic, 3D data blueprints, mold fasteners, HDPE PP PLA, plastic recycling, bespoke board dimensions, mold release agent, IKEA Görlig oven, heat-resistant gloves +keywords: location: Liberec, Czechia --- # Make A4 size clipboard ![Make A4 size clipboard](clipboard.jpg) -Create a bespoke clipboard from repurposed plastic. Board dimensions: 12.4x9.1 inches (315x230 mm) with a thickness of 0.2 inches (5 mm) and four corner radii of 0.3 inches (R8). +Make original clipboard from recycled plastic material. Board size is 315x230 mm thickness 5mm, 4x radius R8 in corners. User Location: Liberec, Czechia ## Steps ### Step 1: Prepare your mould -I provide 3D data and blueprints for personal use. Material: steel, thickness: 5 mm (0.2 inches). +I share with you 3D data and blueprints for personal use. +Material steel, thickness 5mm. +You can also buy mould or mini press on Bazar. -Recommended mold fasteners: -- M6x45 (1.77 inches) bolts (minimum 4) -- M6 washers -- M6 nuts +Recommended mould fasterners: +M6x45 (at least 4 pieces) +M6 washers +M6 nuts ### Step 2: Prepare material + mould -### Clipboard Production Guide +I have already tested HDPE, PP or PLA with good results. +You can play with different colours and bottle cap design. :) +You need between 320 - 350 g / clipboard. -I have tested HDPE, PP, and PLA with satisfactory outcomes. Experiment with various colors and bottle cap designs. You will need approximately 320-350 grams (11.3-12.3 ounces) per clipboard. +Before testing new material type, make a note/ picture how many material did you use. It will help you with future production. -Before experimenting with new materials, document the quantity used for reference in future production. - -Ensure the mold is free of impurities, dust, or residual plastic from prior use; smooth sandpaper is effective for this task. Apply a mold release agent or oil to prevent sticking, ensuring the oil's smoke point exceeds 230°C (446°F). - -For further details on oil smoke points, consult Wikipedia. +Clean mould from impurities, dust or remaining plastic particles from previous production. (I use smooth sand paper) +To avoid sticking use mould release or oil. +Make sure your oil will not get to its smoke point: +en.wikipedia.org: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Template:Smoke_point_of_cooking_oils +I recommend oil with smoke point above 230 deg. Celsius ![material.jpg](./material.jpg) @@ -44,11 +48,20 @@ For further details on oil smoke points, consult Wikipedia. ### Step 3: Baking + pressing -I use an IKEA Görlig electric oven. Adjust the temperature according to the material type. For HDPE and PP, I set the temperature to 225°C (437°F). Place the mold in the oven for 35 minutes and set a timer. +I use IKEA Görlig electric oven. +Set up temperature according to your material type. +For HDPE and PP I use temperature 225 deg Celsius. +I put mould in the oven for 35 min. +Set up timer. + + +Attention - use heat resistent gloves when you operate with mould from oven :) + +After baking process, press mould. +Cooling process take 20 - 30 min. +If you open mould earlier, there is risk of deformation. -Attention: Use heat-resistant gloves when handling the mold from the oven. -After baking, press the mold. The cooling process takes 20-30 minutes. Opening the mold earlier may risk deformation. ![Snímek5_40y4-uz.png](./Snimek5_40y4-uz.png) @@ -58,13 +71,18 @@ After baking, press the mold. The cooling process takes 20-30 minutes. Opening t ### Step 4: Postprocessing -Trim the edges with a knife. Sand the surface if needed. Drill two M4 (0.157 inch) holes according to your clip design. Screw-type rivets are recommended for easy and tool-free modifications to the board with clips. +Cut out edges with knife, +You can sand surface. +Drill 2 holes M4 (size and location of holes depends on your clip design). +I prefer screw type rivets - you do not need special tools and you can make easy and quick change board design with clip. + +Rivet size: + +A: 4mm +B: 6mm +C: 10mm +S: 4mm -Rivet sizes: -- A: 4mm (0.157 inch) -- B: 6mm (0.236 inch) -- C: 10mm (0.394 inch) -- S: 4mm (0.157 inch) ![2.jpg](./2.jpg) @@ -77,9 +95,9 @@ Rivet sizes: ### Step 5: Follow Plastmakers -For more open-source content, please consider engaging through sharing, subscribing, liking, following, or commenting. +To provide more open source content, I will be happy for share, subscribe, like, follow or comment. <3 -More information is available here: [linktr.ee/plastmakers](https://linktr.ee/plastmakers) +More information: linktr.ee: linktr.ee/plastmakers Thank you. @@ -92,44 +110,4 @@ Tom ![clipboard.jpg](./clipboard.jpg) ## Resources -### Materials - -- HDPE plastic ([Guide reference](https://linktr.ee/plastmakers)) -- PP (Polypropylene) -- PLA (bioplastic option) -- Colored plastics/bottle caps (experimental) -- Mold release agent/oil (smoke point >230°C/446°F) [¹](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Smoke_point) - -### Tools & Hardware - -- M6x45mm bolts (4+ units) -- M6 washers/nuts -- Smooth sandpaper (for mold prep) -- Drill with 4mm bit (M4 holes) -- Screw-type rivets (4mm/6mm/10mm sizes) - -### Equipment - -- IKEA Görlig electric oven ([Example](https://www.ikea.com)) -- Heat-resistant timer -- Clamping system (for mold pressing) -- Knife (edge trimming) - -### Safety Gear - -- Heat-resistant gloves (oven handling) - -### Design Resources - -- 3D blueprints (user-provided steel templates) -- Open-source guides: [Plastmakers Hub](https://linktr.ee/plastmakers) - -*Quantities derived from 315x230mm board specifications.* -## References -## Articles - -- [Smoke point - Wikipedia](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Smoke_point) - -## Open-source Designs - -- [Plastmakers Design Resources - linktr.ee](https://linktr.ee/plastmakers) \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/make-a4-size-clipboard/config.json b/howtos/make-a4-size-clipboard/config.json index 75308db9f..2f9e17d54 100644 --- a/howtos/make-a4-size-clipboard/config.json +++ b/howtos/make-a4-size-clipboard/config.json @@ -15,7 +15,7 @@ ], "title": "Make A4 size clipboard", "_id": "jhmdpHYJOwCXQrvQKs1y", - "description": "Create a bespoke clipboard from repurposed plastic. Board dimensions: 12.4x9.1 inches (315x230 mm) with a thickness of 0.2 inches (5 mm) and four corner radii of 0.3 inches (R8).", + "description": "Make original clipboard from recycled plastic material. Board size is 315x230 mm thickness 5mm, 4x radius R8 in corners.", "votedUsefulBy": [ "sigolene", "devsonni", @@ -49,7 +49,7 @@ "videoUrl": "https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SIElQvtsrxg", "_animationKey": "unique1", "images": [], - "text": "I provide 3D data and blueprints for personal use. Material: steel, thickness: 5 mm (0.2 inches).\n\nRecommended mold fasteners:\n- M6x45 (1.77 inches) bolts (minimum 4)\n- M6 washers\n- M6 nuts", + "text": "I share with you 3D data and blueprints for personal use. \nMaterial steel, thickness 5mm.\nYou can also buy mould or mini press on Bazar.\n\nRecommended mould fasterners: \nM6x45 (at least 4 pieces) \nM6 washers\nM6 nuts", "title": "Prepare your mould" }, { @@ -81,10 +81,10 @@ } ], "_animationKey": "unique2", - "text": "### Clipboard Production Guide\n\nI have tested HDPE, PP, and PLA with satisfactory outcomes. Experiment with various colors and bottle cap designs. You will need approximately 320-350 grams (11.3-12.3 ounces) per clipboard. \n\nBefore experimenting with new materials, document the quantity used for reference in future production.\n\nEnsure the mold is free of impurities, dust, or residual plastic from prior use; smooth sandpaper is effective for this task. Apply a mold release agent or oil to prevent sticking, ensuring the oil's smoke point exceeds 230°C (446°F). \n\nFor further details on oil smoke points, consult Wikipedia." + "text": "I have already tested HDPE, PP or PLA with good results. \nYou can play with different colours and bottle cap design. :) \nYou need between 320 - 350 g / clipboard. \n\nBefore testing new material type, make a note/ picture how many material did you use. It will help you with future production. \n\nClean mould from impurities, dust or remaining plastic particles from previous production. (I use smooth sand paper)\nTo avoid sticking use mould release or oil. \nMake sure your oil will not get to its smoke point: \nen.wikipedia.org: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Template:Smoke_point_of_cooking_oils\nI recommend oil with smoke point above 230 deg. Celsius" }, { - "text": "I use an IKEA Görlig electric oven. Adjust the temperature according to the material type. For HDPE and PP, I set the temperature to 225°C (437°F). Place the mold in the oven for 35 minutes and set a timer.\n\nAttention: Use heat-resistant gloves when handling the mold from the oven.\n\nAfter baking, press the mold. The cooling process takes 20-30 minutes. Opening the mold earlier may risk deformation.", + "text": "I use IKEA Görlig electric oven.\nSet up temperature according to your material type.\nFor HDPE and PP I use temperature 225 deg Celsius.\nI put mould in the oven for 35 min. \nSet up timer. \n\n\nAttention - use heat resistent gloves when you operate with mould from oven :) \n\nAfter baking process, press mould. \nCooling process take 20 - 30 min. \nIf you open mould earlier, there is risk of deformation.\n\n", "_animationKey": "unique3", "images": [ { @@ -115,7 +115,7 @@ "title": "Baking + pressing" }, { - "text": "Trim the edges with a knife. Sand the surface if needed. Drill two M4 (0.157 inch) holes according to your clip design. Screw-type rivets are recommended for easy and tool-free modifications to the board with clips.\n\nRivet sizes:\n- A: 4mm (0.157 inch)\n- B: 6mm (0.236 inch)\n- C: 10mm (0.394 inch)\n- S: 4mm (0.157 inch)", + "text": "Cut out edges with knife,\nYou can sand surface.\nDrill 2 holes M4 (size and location of holes depends on your clip design).\nI prefer screw type rivets - you do not need special tools and you can make easy and quick change board design with clip.\n\nRivet size:\n\nA: 4mm\nB: 6mm\nC: 10mm\nS: 4mm\n", "_animationKey": "uniqueq4k8r", "images": [ { @@ -160,7 +160,7 @@ { "title": "Follow Plastmakers", "_animationKey": "uniquerhrzo6", - "text": "For more open-source content, please consider engaging through sharing, subscribing, liking, following, or commenting.\n\nMore information is available here: [linktr.ee/plastmakers](https://linktr.ee/plastmakers)\n\nThank you.\n\nTom", + "text": "To provide more open source content, I will be happy for share, subscribe, like, follow or comment. <3\n\nMore information: linktr.ee: linktr.ee/plastmakers\n\nThank you.\n\nTom", "images": [ { "name": "coca cola.jpg", @@ -352,9 +352,5 @@ "images": [] } }, - "content": "Create a bespoke clipboard from repurposed plastic. Board dimensions: 12.4x9.1 inches (315x230 mm) with a thickness of 0.2 inches (5 mm) and four corner radii of 0.3 inches (R8).\n\n\nUser Location: Liberec, Czechia\n\nI provide 3D data and blueprints for personal use. Material: steel, thickness: 5 mm (0.2 inches).\n\nRecommended mold fasteners:\n- M6x45 (1.77 inches) bolts (minimum 4)\n- M6 washers\n- M6 nuts\n\n### Clipboard Production Guide\n\nI have tested HDPE, PP, and PLA with satisfactory outcomes. Experiment with various colors and bottle cap designs. You will need approximately 320-350 grams (11.3-12.3 ounces) per clipboard. \n\nBefore experimenting with new materials, document the quantity used for reference in future production.\n\nEnsure the mold is free of impurities, dust, or residual plastic from prior use; smooth sandpaper is effective for this task. Apply a mold release agent or oil to prevent sticking, ensuring the oil's smoke point exceeds 230°C (446°F). \n\nFor further details on oil smoke points, consult Wikipedia.\n\nI use an IKEA Görlig electric oven. Adjust the temperature according to the material type. For HDPE and PP, I set the temperature to 225°C (437°F). Place the mold in the oven for 35 minutes and set a timer.\n\nAttention: Use heat-resistant gloves when handling the mold from the oven.\n\nAfter baking, press the mold. The cooling process takes 20-30 minutes. Opening the mold earlier may risk deformation.\n\nTrim the edges with a knife. Sand the surface if needed. Drill two M4 (0.157 inch) holes according to your clip design. Screw-type rivets are recommended for easy and tool-free modifications to the board with clips.\n\nRivet sizes:\n- A: 4mm (0.157 inch)\n- B: 6mm (0.236 inch)\n- C: 10mm (0.394 inch)\n- S: 4mm (0.157 inch)\n\nFor more open-source content, please consider engaging through sharing, subscribing, liking, following, or commenting.\n\nMore information is available here: [linktr.ee/plastmakers](https://linktr.ee/plastmakers)\n\nThank you.\n\nTom", - "keywords": "bespoke clipboard, repurposed plastic, 3D data blueprints, mold fasteners, HDPE PP PLA, plastic recycling, bespoke board dimensions, mold release agent, IKEA Görlig oven, heat-resistant gloves", - "resources": "### Materials\n\n- HDPE plastic ([Guide reference](https://linktr.ee/plastmakers))\n- PP (Polypropylene)\n- PLA (bioplastic option)\n- Colored plastics/bottle caps (experimental)\n- Mold release agent/oil (smoke point >230°C/446°F) [¹](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Smoke_point)\n\n### Tools & Hardware\n\n- M6x45mm bolts (4+ units)\n- M6 washers/nuts\n- Smooth sandpaper (for mold prep)\n- Drill with 4mm bit (M4 holes)\n- Screw-type rivets (4mm/6mm/10mm sizes)\n\n### Equipment\n\n- IKEA Görlig electric oven ([Example](https://www.ikea.com))\n- Heat-resistant timer\n- Clamping system (for mold pressing)\n- Knife (edge trimming)\n\n### Safety Gear\n\n- Heat-resistant gloves (oven handling)\n\n### Design Resources\n\n- 3D blueprints (user-provided steel templates)\n- Open-source guides: [Plastmakers Hub](https://linktr.ee/plastmakers)\n\n*Quantities derived from 315x230mm board specifications.*", - "references": "## Articles\n\n- [Smoke point - Wikipedia](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Smoke_point)\n\n## Open-source Designs\n\n- [Plastmakers Design Resources - linktr.ee](https://linktr.ee/plastmakers)", - "brief": "Create custom clipboards from repurposed plastic at home. Learn materials, mold prep, and baking steps for DIY clipboard production with easy modification tips." + "content": "Make original clipboard from recycled plastic material. Board size is 315x230 mm thickness 5mm, 4x radius R8 in corners.\n\n\nUser Location: Liberec, Czechia\n\nI share with you 3D data and blueprints for personal use. \nMaterial steel, thickness 5mm.\nYou can also buy mould or mini press on Bazar.\n\nRecommended mould fasterners: \nM6x45 (at least 4 pieces) \nM6 washers\nM6 nuts\n\nI have already tested HDPE, PP or PLA with good results. \nYou can play with different colours and bottle cap design. :) \nYou need between 320 - 350 g / clipboard. \n\nBefore testing new material type, make a note/ picture how many material did you use. It will help you with future production. \n\nClean mould from impurities, dust or remaining plastic particles from previous production. (I use smooth sand paper)\nTo avoid sticking use mould release or oil. \nMake sure your oil will not get to its smoke point: \nen.wikipedia.org: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Template:Smoke_point_of_cooking_oils\nI recommend oil with smoke point above 230 deg. Celsius\n\nI use IKEA Görlig electric oven.\nSet up temperature according to your material type.\nFor HDPE and PP I use temperature 225 deg Celsius.\nI put mould in the oven for 35 min. \nSet up timer. \n\n\nAttention - use heat resistent gloves when you operate with mould from oven :) \n\nAfter baking process, press mould. \nCooling process take 20 - 30 min. \nIf you open mould earlier, there is risk of deformation.\n\n\n\nCut out edges with knife,\nYou can sand surface.\nDrill 2 holes M4 (size and location of holes depends on your clip design).\nI prefer screw type rivets - you do not need special tools and you can make easy and quick change board design with clip.\n\nRivet size:\n\nA: 4mm\nB: 6mm\nC: 10mm\nS: 4mm\n\n\nTo provide more open source content, I will be happy for share, subscribe, like, follow or comment. <3\n\nMore information: linktr.ee: linktr.ee/plastmakers\n\nThank you.\n\nTom" } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/make-alphabet-magnets-from-pla-scraps/README.md b/howtos/make-alphabet-magnets-from-pla-scraps/README.md index e334fe44a..991f84144 100644 --- a/howtos/make-alphabet-magnets-from-pla-scraps/README.md +++ b/howtos/make-alphabet-magnets-from-pla-scraps/README.md @@ -1,34 +1,33 @@ --- title: Make Alphabet Magnets from PLA Scraps slug: make-alphabet-magnets-from-pla-scraps -description: In this guide, you will create alphabet magnets using PLA scraps from 3D prints. This process requires an oven and reaches temperatures of 400°F (204°C), so safety gear is necessary. +description: In this “How To” you will be making Alphabet magnets out of PLA scraps from 3D prints. This process will require the use of an oven. This process will reach temperatures of 400°F so safety gear is needed. tags: ["melting","collection"] category: uncategorized difficulty: Easy time: < 5 hours -keywords: alphabet magnets tutorial, PLA scraps recycling, DIY 3D print projects, plastic molding guide, home crafting safety, making magnets at home, oven plastic melting, silicone mold usage, crafting with PLA, DIY magnet instructions +keywords: location: Conway, United States of America (the) --- # Make Alphabet Magnets from PLA Scraps ![Make Alphabet Magnets from PLA Scraps](DSC_4381-185a7943e53.JPG) -In this guide, you will create alphabet magnets using PLA scraps from 3D prints. This process requires an oven and reaches temperatures of 400°F (204°C), so safety gear is necessary. +In this “How To” you will be making Alphabet magnets out of PLA scraps from 3D prints. This process will require the use of an oven. This process will reach temperatures of 400°F so safety gear is needed. User Location: Conway, United States of America (the) ## Steps ### Step 1: Gather Supplies and Safety Equipment -**Materials Required:** - -- Small PLA scraps -- Clippers -- Safety glasses -- Oven mitts -- Silicone mold (up to 450°F / 232°C) -- Cookie sheet -- Magnetic tape -- X-acto knife -- Sanding paper -- Oven +You will need: +Small PLA Scraps + - Clippers + - Safety Glasses + - Oven Mitts + - Silicon Mold that can withstand up to 450°F + - Cookie sheet + - Magnetic tape + - Exacto knife + - Sanding paper + - An oven ![DSC_4380-185a7921003.JPG](./DSC_4380-185a7921003.JPG) @@ -38,21 +37,14 @@ User Location: Conway, United States of America (the) ### Step 2: Filling the Mold -Before filling the mold, place it on a cookie sheet to prevent spills. Wear safety glasses, and use clippers to cut the PLA scraps so they fit within the mold, as the scraps may scatter when clipped. Ensure the mold is fully filled. +Before filling the mold, put the mold on the cookie sheet to avoid spilling the scraps. Put on the safety glasses and use the clippers to break down the PLA scraps enough so that they fit in the mold. The scraps can go flying when you clip them. Try to fill the mold completely. ![DSC_4371-185a7925792.JPG](./DSC_4371-185a7925792.JPG) ### Step 3: Melt the PLA -### Plastic Molding How-To - -1. After filling the mold with plastic, place the cookie sheet in the oven. -2. Set the oven to 400°F (204°C) and bake. -3. Monitor the plastic as it melts, which may take approximately 30 minutes depending on oven efficiency. -4. Once melted, use oven mitts to remove the cookie sheet from the oven. -5. Place the sheet on a heat-safe surface like the stovetop. -6. Allow it to cool before proceeding to the next step. +When done filling the mold with plastic, bring the cookie sheet with the mold on it to the oven. Set the oven temperature to 400°F and bake. We waited about 30 minutes for the plastic to melt, however, the oven we were using was very old so time may vary. Make sure to keep an eye on the plastic. When the plastic is melted, use oven mitts to take the cookie sheet out of the oven. Place the cookie sheet on a heat-safe surface such as the stovetop or another oven mitt. Wait for the cookie sheet to cool before moving on to the next step. ![DSC_4373-185a7928e93.JPG](./DSC_4373-185a7928e93.JPG) @@ -65,19 +57,16 @@ Before filling the mold, place it on a cookie sheet to prevent spills. Wear safe ### Step 4: Repeat Steps 2 & 3 -The mold might not be sufficiently filled. Add more material, melt it, and repeat this process until the mold is adequately filled. +The mold may not be filled up enough, so clip some more scraps, put it in, and ugh so clip some more scraps and put it in the mold and melt again. Repeat till the mold is filled. ![DSC_4377-185a79356bf.JPG](./DSC_4377-185a79356bf.JPG) ### Step 5: Pop the Letters Out and Put the Magnets On -### Tutorial Instructions +After the mold has fully cooled down, pop the letters out of the mold. Get the sandpaper and sand down the backs of the letters to make them flat enough for the magnets. -1. Once the mold has cooled completely, remove the letters. -2. Sand the backs of the letters until flat, preparing for magnet attachment. -3. Align the letters on the adhesive side of magnetic tape. -4. Use an Exacto knife to trim the excess tape. +When the backs are flat, roll out some magnetic tape and lay the letters on the sticky side of the tape. Use the Exacto knife to cut the magnetic tape off. ![DSC_4379-185a7939424.JPG](./DSC_4379-185a7939424.JPG) @@ -86,56 +75,4 @@ The mold might not be sufficiently filled. Add more material, melt it, and repea ![DSC_4378-185a793a305.JPG](./DSC_4378-185a793a305.JPG) ## Resources -### Tools - -- Clippers -- X-acto knife -- Sanding paper -- Safety glasses -- Oven mitts - -### Hardware - -- Oven (400°F/204°C capable) -- Silicone mold (heat-resistant up to 450°F/232°C) -- Cookie sheet - -### Materials - -- PLA scraps -- Magnetic tape - -No software is required for this project. Safety gear (glasses, mitts) and temperature-resistant hardware (oven, mold) are critical for safely melting and shaping the plastic[1][2]. -## References -**References** - -### Articles - -- [3D Printed Magnets from Recycled Materials](https://3dprintingindustry.com/news/spanish-researchers-develop-3d-printed-magnets-made-of-recycled-materials-203579/) [2] -- [Open-Source Plastic Recycling](https://www.engineering.com/open-source-fabbing-gives-plastic-waste-new-life/) [9] -- [[filtered] Open-Source Platform](https://www.designweek.co.uk/issues/17-23-february-2020/precious-plastic/) [11] -- [[filtered] Wikipedia](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Precious_Plastic) [15] - -### Papers - -- [Repetitive Recycling of PLA Filament](https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC10490016/) [3][5] - -### YouTube - -- [Magnet-Embedded 3D Printing Tutorial](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wJgoH2Or03s) [1] -- [Magna-Tiles Alphabet Tutorial](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4HQsJ49ia-c) [6] - -### Open-source Designs - -- [PLA Scrap Recycling Guide](https://class.textile-academy.org/2020/loes.bogers/files/recipes/recycledPLA/) [4] -- [Magnetic 3D Printing Guide](https://www.instructables.com/How-to-Make-Your-3D-Printed-Projects-Magnetic/) [7] -- [[filtered] Open Source Fund](https://opencollective.com/precious-plastic/projects/open-source-fund) [13] - -### Books - -- ~~[Raspberry Pi Projects Book](https://scibizsw.com/20_THE%20OFFICIAL%20RASPBERRY%20PI%20PROJECTS%20BOOK%20v3.pdf)~~ [10] -- [MagPi Archive](https://archive.org/stream/MagPi/Projects_Book_v3_djvu.txt) [12] - -### Community Projects - -- [3D Printed Magnet Hold-Down](https://community.glowforge.com/t/3d-printed-neodymium-magnet-material-hold-down/28003) [8] \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/make-alphabet-magnets-from-pla-scraps/config.json b/howtos/make-alphabet-magnets-from-pla-scraps/config.json index 02a071950..b2ab1d46e 100644 --- a/howtos/make-alphabet-magnets-from-pla-scraps/config.json +++ b/howtos/make-alphabet-magnets-from-pla-scraps/config.json @@ -45,7 +45,7 @@ "_contentModifiedTimestamp": "2023-06-14T11:02:17.870Z", "_createdBy": "ccumakerspace", "time": "< 5 hours", - "description": "In this guide, you will create alphabet magnets using PLA scraps from 3D prints. This process requires an oven and reaches temperatures of 400°F (204°C), so safety gear is necessary.", + "description": "In this “How To” you will be making Alphabet magnets out of PLA scraps from 3D prints. This process will require the use of an oven. This process will reach temperatures of 400°F so safety gear is needed. ", "title": "Make Alphabet Magnets from PLA Scraps", "_deleted": false, "_modified": "2023-10-04T07:20:06.547Z", @@ -83,11 +83,11 @@ "alt": "DSC_4372-185a7922899.JPG" } ], - "text": "**Materials Required:**\n\n- Small PLA scraps\n- Clippers\n- Safety glasses\n- Oven mitts\n- Silicone mold (up to 450°F / 232°C)\n- Cookie sheet\n- Magnetic tape\n- X-acto knife\n- Sanding paper\n- Oven" + "text": "You will need: \nSmall PLA Scraps \n - Clippers \n - Safety Glasses \n - Oven Mitts \n - Silicon Mold that can withstand up to 450°F \n - Cookie sheet \n - Magnetic tape \n - Exacto knife \n - Sanding paper \n - An oven " }, { "title": "Filling the Mold", - "text": "Before filling the mold, place it on a cookie sheet to prevent spills. Wear safety glasses, and use clippers to cut the PLA scraps so they fit within the mold, as the scraps may scatter when clipped. Ensure the mold is fully filled.", + "text": "Before filling the mold, put the mold on the cookie sheet to avoid spilling the scraps. Put on the safety glasses and use the clippers to break down the PLA scraps enough so that they fit in the mold. The scraps can go flying when you clip them. Try to fill the mold completely. ", "_animationKey": "unique2", "images": [ { @@ -145,7 +145,7 @@ } ], "_animationKey": "unique3", - "text": "### Plastic Molding How-To\n\n1. After filling the mold with plastic, place the cookie sheet in the oven.\n2. Set the oven to 400°F (204°C) and bake.\n3. Monitor the plastic as it melts, which may take approximately 30 minutes depending on oven efficiency.\n4. Once melted, use oven mitts to remove the cookie sheet from the oven.\n5. Place the sheet on a heat-safe surface like the stovetop.\n6. Allow it to cool before proceeding to the next step." + "text": "When done filling the mold with plastic, bring the cookie sheet with the mold on it to the oven. Set the oven temperature to 400°F and bake. We waited about 30 minutes for the plastic to melt, however, the oven we were using was very old so time may vary. Make sure to keep an eye on the plastic. When the plastic is melted, use oven mitts to take the cookie sheet out of the oven. Place the cookie sheet on a heat-safe surface such as the stovetop or another oven mitt. Wait for the cookie sheet to cool before moving on to the next step. " }, { "images": [ @@ -163,13 +163,13 @@ } ], "title": "Repeat Steps 2 & 3", - "text": "The mold might not be sufficiently filled. Add more material, melt it, and repeat this process until the mold is adequately filled.", + "text": "The mold may not be filled up enough, so clip some more scraps, put it in, and ugh so clip some more scraps and put it in the mold and melt again. Repeat till the mold is filled.", "_animationKey": "uniqueaplogb" }, { "title": "Pop the Letters Out and Put the Magnets On", "_animationKey": "uniquedv3wyy", - "text": "### Tutorial Instructions\n\n1. Once the mold has cooled completely, remove the letters.\n2. Sand the backs of the letters until flat, preparing for magnet attachment.\n3. Align the letters on the adhesive side of magnetic tape.\n4. Use an Exacto knife to trim the excess tape.", + "text": "After the mold has fully cooled down, pop the letters out of the mold. Get the sandpaper and sand down the backs of the letters to make them flat enough for the magnets. \n\nWhen the backs are flat, roll out some magnetic tape and lay the letters on the sticky side of the tape. Use the Exacto knife to cut the magnetic tape off. ", "images": [ { "type": "image/jpeg", @@ -341,9 +341,5 @@ "category": { "label": "uncategorized" }, - "content": "In this guide, you will create alphabet magnets using PLA scraps from 3D prints. This process requires an oven and reaches temperatures of 400°F (204°C), so safety gear is necessary.\n\n\nUser Location: Conway, United States of America (the)\n\n**Materials Required:**\n\n- Small PLA scraps\n- Clippers\n- Safety glasses\n- Oven mitts\n- Silicone mold (up to 450°F / 232°C)\n- Cookie sheet\n- Magnetic tape\n- X-acto knife\n- Sanding paper\n- Oven\n\nBefore filling the mold, place it on a cookie sheet to prevent spills. Wear safety glasses, and use clippers to cut the PLA scraps so they fit within the mold, as the scraps may scatter when clipped. Ensure the mold is fully filled.\n\n### Plastic Molding How-To\n\n1. After filling the mold with plastic, place the cookie sheet in the oven.\n2. Set the oven to 400°F (204°C) and bake.\n3. Monitor the plastic as it melts, which may take approximately 30 minutes depending on oven efficiency.\n4. Once melted, use oven mitts to remove the cookie sheet from the oven.\n5. Place the sheet on a heat-safe surface like the stovetop.\n6. Allow it to cool before proceeding to the next step.\n\nThe mold might not be sufficiently filled. Add more material, melt it, and repeat this process until the mold is adequately filled.\n\n### Tutorial Instructions\n\n1. Once the mold has cooled completely, remove the letters.\n2. Sand the backs of the letters until flat, preparing for magnet attachment.\n3. Align the letters on the adhesive side of magnetic tape.\n4. Use an Exacto knife to trim the excess tape.", - "keywords": "alphabet magnets tutorial, PLA scraps recycling, DIY 3D print projects, plastic molding guide, home crafting safety, making magnets at home, oven plastic melting, silicone mold usage, crafting with PLA, DIY magnet instructions", - "resources": "### Tools\n\n- Clippers\n- X-acto knife\n- Sanding paper\n- Safety glasses\n- Oven mitts\n\n### Hardware\n\n- Oven (400°F/204°C capable)\n- Silicone mold (heat-resistant up to 450°F/232°C)\n- Cookie sheet\n\n### Materials\n\n- PLA scraps\n- Magnetic tape\n\nNo software is required for this project. Safety gear (glasses, mitts) and temperature-resistant hardware (oven, mold) are critical for safely melting and shaping the plastic[1][2].", - "references": "**References**\n\n### Articles\n\n- [3D Printed Magnets from Recycled Materials](https://3dprintingindustry.com/news/spanish-researchers-develop-3d-printed-magnets-made-of-recycled-materials-203579/) [2]\n- [Open-Source Plastic Recycling](https://www.engineering.com/open-source-fabbing-gives-plastic-waste-new-life/) [9]\n- [[filtered] Open-Source Platform](https://www.designweek.co.uk/issues/17-23-february-2020/precious-plastic/) [11]\n- [[filtered] Wikipedia](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Precious_Plastic) [15]\n\n### Papers\n\n- [Repetitive Recycling of PLA Filament](https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC10490016/) [3][5]\n\n### YouTube\n\n- [Magnet-Embedded 3D Printing Tutorial](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wJgoH2Or03s) [1]\n- [Magna-Tiles Alphabet Tutorial](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4HQsJ49ia-c) [6]\n\n### Open-source Designs\n\n- [PLA Scrap Recycling Guide](https://class.textile-academy.org/2020/loes.bogers/files/recipes/recycledPLA/) [4]\n- [Magnetic 3D Printing Guide](https://www.instructables.com/How-to-Make-Your-3D-Printed-Projects-Magnetic/) [7]\n- [[filtered] Open Source Fund](https://opencollective.com/precious-plastic/projects/open-source-fund) [13]\n\n### Books\n\n- ~~[Raspberry Pi Projects Book](https://scibizsw.com/20_THE%20OFFICIAL%20RASPBERRY%20PI%20PROJECTS%20BOOK%20v3.pdf)~~ [10]\n- [MagPi Archive](https://archive.org/stream/MagPi/Projects_Book_v3_djvu.txt) [12]\n\n### Community Projects\n\n- [3D Printed Magnet Hold-Down](https://community.glowforge.com/t/3d-printed-neodymium-magnet-material-hold-down/28003) [8]", - "brief": "Create alphabet magnets using PLA scraps and an oven in this DIY guide. Essential: safety gear, silicone mold, and magnetic tape. Bake, cool, and attach magnets." + "content": "In this “How To” you will be making Alphabet magnets out of PLA scraps from 3D prints. This process will require the use of an oven. This process will reach temperatures of 400°F so safety gear is needed. \n\n\nUser Location: Conway, United States of America (the)\n\nYou will need: \nSmall PLA Scraps \n - Clippers \n - Safety Glasses \n - Oven Mitts \n - Silicon Mold that can withstand up to 450°F \n - Cookie sheet \n - Magnetic tape \n - Exacto knife \n - Sanding paper \n - An oven \n\nBefore filling the mold, put the mold on the cookie sheet to avoid spilling the scraps. Put on the safety glasses and use the clippers to break down the PLA scraps enough so that they fit in the mold. The scraps can go flying when you clip them. Try to fill the mold completely. \n\nWhen done filling the mold with plastic, bring the cookie sheet with the mold on it to the oven. Set the oven temperature to 400°F and bake. We waited about 30 minutes for the plastic to melt, however, the oven we were using was very old so time may vary. Make sure to keep an eye on the plastic. When the plastic is melted, use oven mitts to take the cookie sheet out of the oven. Place the cookie sheet on a heat-safe surface such as the stovetop or another oven mitt. Wait for the cookie sheet to cool before moving on to the next step. \n\nThe mold may not be filled up enough, so clip some more scraps, put it in, and ugh so clip some more scraps and put it in the mold and melt again. Repeat till the mold is filled.\n\nAfter the mold has fully cooled down, pop the letters out of the mold. Get the sandpaper and sand down the backs of the letters to make them flat enough for the magnets. \n\nWhen the backs are flat, roll out some magnetic tape and lay the letters on the sticky side of the tape. Use the Exacto knife to cut the magnetic tape off. " } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/make-an-adaptable-sorting-system/README.md b/howtos/make-an-adaptable-sorting-system/README.md index b62c5dedf..3fd651322 100644 --- a/howtos/make-an-adaptable-sorting-system/README.md +++ b/howtos/make-an-adaptable-sorting-system/README.md @@ -1,23 +1,33 @@ --- title: Make an adaptable sorting system slug: make-an-adaptable-sorting-system -description: Create an adaptable sorting system. Easily move tabs to accommodate different amounts of materials as required. +description: Make a sorting system that can adapt! if you have more plastic from one type just move the tabs to suit your needs! + + + tags: ["collection","sorting"] category: Guides difficulty: Easy time: < 1 week -keywords: sorting system, adaptable system, CNC cutting, laser cutting, material thickness, panel alignment, divider panels, smooth surface finish, efficient organization, Lisbon Portugal +keywords: location: Lisbon, Portugal --- # Make an adaptable sorting system ![Make an adaptable sorting system](WhatsApp_Image_2020-12-20_at_3.03.16_PM.jpeg) -Create an adaptable sorting system. Easily move tabs to accommodate different amounts of materials as required. +Make a sorting system that can adapt! if you have more plastic from one type just move the tabs to suit your needs! + + + User Location: Lisbon, Portugal ## Steps ### Step 1: Cuting the panels- CNC machine -Send the provided files to be cut using a CNC or laser cutting machine. Note that the files are designed for a material thickness of 25 mm (1 inch); adjust the files if you alter this measurement. While we only cut the outline on the machine, you can also use it for bevels and engraving. +In this step, you can send the files we provide to be cut on a CNC machine or laser cutting machine. Be aware, these files were made in proportion to our material thickness of 25mm so all the joints match, if you change this measurement make sure you change it in the file too. +In our case, we only cut the outline on the machine but you can use this machine to do all the bevels and number engraving too. + + + ![Captura de ecrã 2020-12-08 125522.png](./Captura_de_ecra_2020-12-08_125522.png) @@ -30,7 +40,7 @@ Send the provided files to be cut using a CNC or laser cutting machine. Note tha ### Step 2: Plastic type- LaserCut -After cutting all panels, use the numbered files to laser cut each one. Ensure proper alignment, especially from the topmost corner, as each divider panel is numbered on both sides. +After cutting all the panels use the files with the numbers and laser cut them, make sure you align it well because each divider panel as a number on both sides, the best corner to align it from is the top highest corner. ![kjhgfds.jpg](./kjhgfds.jpg) @@ -43,7 +53,8 @@ After cutting all panels, use the numbered files to laser cut each one. Ensure p ### Step 3: Cuting and Finishing -In this step, cut the front, bottom, and back panels. Additionally, begin finishing and sanding all parts for a smooth surface. +In this step, we cut the front, bottom, and back panels. +Also in this step, you can start finishing all of the parts and sanding to give a smooth touch. ![WhatsApp Image 2020-11-11 at 2.32.15 PM.jpeg](./WhatsApp_Image_2020-11-11_at_2.32.15_PM.jpeg) @@ -53,7 +64,9 @@ In this step, cut the front, bottom, and back panels. Additionally, begin finish ### Step 4: Mounting all the pieces -After sanding, assemble using screws. Attach the sides and bottom, then fit the dividers as needed. +After sanding everything you can assemble it with screws. First, you attach the sides and the bottom then you just fit the divisors as it suits your needs. + + ![WhatsApp Image 2020-11-11 at 2.32.16 PM.jpeg](./WhatsApp_Image_2020-11-11_at_2.32.16_PM.jpeg) @@ -63,9 +76,7 @@ After sanding, assemble using screws. Attach the sides and bottom, then fit the ### Step 5: ALL DONE!! -## Organize Plastic Efficiently - -You can now sort your plastic more effectively. +Now you can organize your plastic much more easily! ![AAD_3358.jpg](./AAD_3358.jpg) @@ -77,30 +88,4 @@ You can now sort your plastic more effectively. ![AAD_3221.jpg](./AAD_3221.jpg) ## Resources -To create an adaptable sorting system with movable tabs, the following tools, software, and materials are required based on the tutorial. Each category is organized below for clarity. - -### Hardware - -- CNC or laser cutting machine ([common suppliers in Lisbon](https://example.com)) -- Laser engraving/cutting machine (for numbered panels) -- Screwdriver or power drill (for assembly) - -### Software - -- CAD software (e.g., AutoCAD, Fusion 360) to adjust file thickness -- Vector design tools (e.g., Adobe Illustrator, Inkscape) for file editing - -### Materials - -- 25 mm thick sheets (wood, acrylic, or MDF) -- Screws (size matching panel thickness) - -### Additional Tools - -- Sandpaper or power sander (for finishing surfaces) -- Clamps or alignment jigs (for precise assembly) -- Measuring tape or calipers (to verify dimensions) - -The process requires precise adjustments in design software for material thickness and proper machine calibration when cutting or engraving numbered dividers [1]. -## References -Based on the provided information, there are no references or sources included in the text to process. The content describes a fabrication process for creating a sorting system but does not cite any external articles, books, papers, or other resources that could be listed as references. Without specific sources mentioned or provided in search results, it's not possible to generate a grouped reference list. \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/make-an-adaptable-sorting-system/config.json b/howtos/make-an-adaptable-sorting-system/config.json index f0031b3b0..b2f4aea18 100644 --- a/howtos/make-an-adaptable-sorting-system/config.json +++ b/howtos/make-an-adaptable-sorting-system/config.json @@ -1,6 +1,6 @@ { "_createdBy": "guas", - "description": "Create an adaptable sorting system. Easily move tabs to accommodate different amounts of materials as required.", + "description": "Make a sorting system that can adapt! if you have more plastic from one type just move the tabs to suit your needs! \n\n\n", "_contentModifiedTimestamp": "2023-06-14T11:02:21.101Z", "_created": "2020-12-08T17:51:35.650Z", "total_views": 386, @@ -80,7 +80,7 @@ "alt": "20201002_114814_1_Momeffrnt.jpg" } ], - "text": "Send the provided files to be cut using a CNC or laser cutting machine. Note that the files are designed for a material thickness of 25 mm (1 inch); adjust the files if you alter this measurement. While we only cut the outline on the machine, you can also use it for bevels and engraving.", + "text": "In this step, you can send the files we provide to be cut on a CNC machine or laser cutting machine. Be aware, these files were made in proportion to our material thickness of 25mm so all the joints match, if you change this measurement make sure you change it in the file too.\nIn our case, we only cut the outline on the machine but you can use this machine to do all the bevels and number engraving too.\n\n\n", "title": "Cuting the panels- CNC machine" }, { @@ -123,12 +123,12 @@ } ], "_animationKey": "unique2", - "text": "After cutting all panels, use the numbered files to laser cut each one. Ensure proper alignment, especially from the topmost corner, as each divider panel is numbered on both sides.", + "text": "After cutting all the panels use the files with the numbers and laser cut them, make sure you align it well because each divider panel as a number on both sides, the best corner to align it from is the top highest corner.", "title": "Plastic type- LaserCut" }, { "_animationKey": "unique3", - "text": "In this step, cut the front, bottom, and back panels. Additionally, begin finishing and sanding all parts for a smooth surface.", + "text": "In this step, we cut the front, bottom, and back panels.\nAlso in this step, you can start finishing all of the parts and sanding to give a smooth touch.", "title": "Cuting and Finishing", "images": [ { @@ -186,7 +186,7 @@ "alt": "WhatsApp Image 2020-11-11 at 2.32.14 PM.jpeg" } ], - "text": "After sanding, assemble using screws. Attach the sides and bottom, then fit the dividers as needed." + "text": "After sanding everything you can assemble it with screws. First, you attach the sides and the bottom then you just fit the divisors as it suits your needs.\n\n" }, { "images": [ @@ -227,7 +227,7 @@ "alt": "AAD_3221.jpg" } ], - "text": "## Organize Plastic Efficiently\n\nYou can now sort your plastic more effectively.", + "text": "Now you can organize your plastic much more easily! ", "title": "ALL DONE!!", "_animationKey": "uniquej2p4xo" } @@ -399,9 +399,5 @@ "urls": [] } }, - "content": "Create an adaptable sorting system. Easily move tabs to accommodate different amounts of materials as required.\n\n\nUser Location: Lisbon, Portugal\n\nSend the provided files to be cut using a CNC or laser cutting machine. Note that the files are designed for a material thickness of 25 mm (1 inch); adjust the files if you alter this measurement. While we only cut the outline on the machine, you can also use it for bevels and engraving.\n\nAfter cutting all panels, use the numbered files to laser cut each one. Ensure proper alignment, especially from the topmost corner, as each divider panel is numbered on both sides.\n\nIn this step, cut the front, bottom, and back panels. Additionally, begin finishing and sanding all parts for a smooth surface.\n\nAfter sanding, assemble using screws. Attach the sides and bottom, then fit the dividers as needed.\n\n## Organize Plastic Efficiently\n\nYou can now sort your plastic more effectively.", - "keywords": "sorting system, adaptable system, CNC cutting, laser cutting, material thickness, panel alignment, divider panels, smooth surface finish, efficient organization, Lisbon Portugal", - "resources": "To create an adaptable sorting system with movable tabs, the following tools, software, and materials are required based on the tutorial. Each category is organized below for clarity.\n\n### Hardware\n\n- CNC or laser cutting machine ([common suppliers in Lisbon](https://example.com))\n- Laser engraving/cutting machine (for numbered panels)\n- Screwdriver or power drill (for assembly)\n\n### Software\n\n- CAD software (e.g., AutoCAD, Fusion 360) to adjust file thickness\n- Vector design tools (e.g., Adobe Illustrator, Inkscape) for file editing\n\n### Materials\n\n- 25 mm thick sheets (wood, acrylic, or MDF)\n- Screws (size matching panel thickness)\n\n### Additional Tools\n\n- Sandpaper or power sander (for finishing surfaces)\n- Clamps or alignment jigs (for precise assembly)\n- Measuring tape or calipers (to verify dimensions)\n\nThe process requires precise adjustments in design software for material thickness and proper machine calibration when cutting or engraving numbered dividers [1].", - "references": "Based on the provided information, there are no references or sources included in the text to process. The content describes a fabrication process for creating a sorting system but does not cite any external articles, books, papers, or other resources that could be listed as references. Without specific sources mentioned or provided in search results, it's not possible to generate a grouped reference list.", - "brief": "Create an adaptable sorting system. Easily move tabs for different materials. Perfect for CNC or laser cutting with panels designed for 25 mm thickness." + "content": "Make a sorting system that can adapt! if you have more plastic from one type just move the tabs to suit your needs! \n\n\n\n\n\nUser Location: Lisbon, Portugal\n\nIn this step, you can send the files we provide to be cut on a CNC machine or laser cutting machine. Be aware, these files were made in proportion to our material thickness of 25mm so all the joints match, if you change this measurement make sure you change it in the file too.\nIn our case, we only cut the outline on the machine but you can use this machine to do all the bevels and number engraving too.\n\n\n\n\nAfter cutting all the panels use the files with the numbers and laser cut them, make sure you align it well because each divider panel as a number on both sides, the best corner to align it from is the top highest corner.\n\nIn this step, we cut the front, bottom, and back panels.\nAlso in this step, you can start finishing all of the parts and sanding to give a smooth touch.\n\nAfter sanding everything you can assemble it with screws. First, you attach the sides and the bottom then you just fit the divisors as it suits your needs.\n\n\n\nNow you can organize your plastic much more easily! " } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/make-an-automated-injection-molding-machine/README.md b/howtos/make-an-automated-injection-molding-machine/README.md index 6c77c17ef..fa456a49a 100644 --- a/howtos/make-an-automated-injection-molding-machine/README.md +++ b/howtos/make-an-automated-injection-molding-machine/README.md @@ -1,46 +1,47 @@ --- title: Make an automated injection molding machine slug: make-an-automated-injection-molding-machine -description: ## How-To: Automated Injection Molding Machine +description: This how-to contains information on how we built a low-cost, automated injection molding machine. Unfortunately the folder is way to big for uploading it here. -This guide explains how we constructed an affordable automated injection molding machine. Due to the folder size, it cannot be uploaded here. Access the folder via the provided Dropbox link. +We added a link to our dropbox, where you can download the folder :) tags: ["injection","research","other machine","extrusion"] category: Machines difficulty: Hard time: 1+ months -keywords: automated injection molding machine, affordable injection molding, CAD files, bill of materials, circuit diagram, machine building guide, troubleshooting chapter, construction manual, DIY injection molding, SOTOP-Recycling +keywords: location: Schopfheim, Germany --- # Make an automated injection molding machine ![Make an automated injection molding machine](Photo_26.08.20_14_03_00.jpg) -## How-To: Automated Injection Molding Machine +This how-to contains information on how we built a low-cost, automated injection molding machine. Unfortunately the folder is way to big for uploading it here. -This guide explains how we constructed an affordable automated injection molding machine. Due to the folder size, it cannot be uploaded here. Access the folder via the provided Dropbox link. +We added a link to our dropbox, where you can download the folder :) User Location: Schopfheim, Germany ## Steps ### Step 1: Download the folder -Download and carefully read the Guide.pdf. +Download and read carefully the Guide.pdf. Link: -[Dropbox: Guide](https://www.dropbox.com/sh/bvus8maneewhxhk/AACpXCwufQSTb2FyYe8HFChFa?dl=0) +dropbox.com: dropbox.com/sh/bvus8maneewhxhk/AACpXCwufQSTb2FyYe8HFChFa?dl=0 -Note: The machine is still a work in progress. A troubleshooting chapter is included for improvements. +IMPORTANT! The machine is still work in progress and not perfect yet. We added a troubleshooting chapter in the download with details on what has to be improved. -The Guide.pdf outlines the structure and key information. +The Guide.pdf contains the most important informations and gives you an idea how all the info is structured. -The package includes: +The package contains: -- CAD files -- Bill of Materials (BOM) +- CAD +- Bill of material (BOM) - Blueprints - Program - Circuit diagram - Additional pictures +- ... -We've included detailed information to ensure clarity. +We decided to rather put a little bit more information than to few. So dont be scared when we are going a bit into the details :) ![Blueprint.PNG](./Blueprint.PNG) @@ -53,9 +54,11 @@ We've included detailed information to ensure clarity. ### Step 2: Check out the design -### Machine Building Consideration +Before you consider building this machine, make sure that it is within your capabilities. -Ensure your skills are sufficient before attempting to build this machine, as it is significantly more complex than standard injection or extrusion machines. A comprehensive CAD detailing the current version is available in the download folder. +It is much more complex than a normal injection or extrusion machine. + +In the download folder there is a very detailed CAD of the current state :) ![Rendering.PNG](./Rendering.PNG) @@ -68,15 +71,15 @@ Ensure your skills are sufficient before attempting to build this machine, as it ### Step 3: Replicate and do even better;) -To take on the challenge, construct the machine yourself. +If you want to accept the challenge, then build the machine yourself. -Watch this video to see it in action: +In this video you see how we can already work with it :) -[YouTube Video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Eq9IbetsLB4&t=2s) +youtube.com: youtube.com/watch?v=Eq9IbetsLB4&t=2s -If you have valuable ideas or have enhanced your machine, please share your insights with us. +If you have good Ideas and you made improvements with your machine, please let us know and share back! -Thank you, SOTOP-Recycling. +Enjoy, SOTOP-Recycling :) ![Photo 26.08.20, 14 34 26.jpg](./Photo_26.08.20_14_34_26.jpg) @@ -88,43 +91,4 @@ Thank you, SOTOP-Recycling. ![phone covers.jpg](./phone_covers.jpg) ## Resources -## Tools - -- CAD software for viewing/editing design files (e.g., Fusion 360[CAD files]) -- Workshop tools (drills, saws, welding equipment) -- Measurement instruments (calipers, thermometers) -- 3D printer for custom components[CAD files] -- Safety gear (gloves, goggles, heat-resistant clothing) - -## Software - -- CAD program[Guide.pdf] -- Circuit design software (e.g., KiCad/EAGLE)[Circuit diagram] -- PLC/microcontroller programming IDE (likely Arduino-based)[Program] -- CAM software for CNC machining (if replicating metal parts) -- Data analysis tools for process optimization - -## Hardware - -- Injection mold assembly[Blueprints][BOM] -- Heating elements and temperature controllers -- Pneumatic/hydraulic actuators[Circuit diagram] -- Stepper/servo motors for automation -- Customizable frame components[CAD files] - -Download resources: [Dropbox folder](https://www.dropbox.com/sh/bvus8maneewhxhk/AACpXCwufQSTb2FyYe8HFChFa?dl=0)\ -Video demonstration: [YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Eq9IbetsLB4\&t=2s) - -*Key components inferred from the BOM, CAD files, and process requirements described in the documentation. Specific quantities/models require accessing the provided materials.* -## References -#### Articles - -- [Guide to Automated Injection Molding Machine](https://www.dropbox.com/sh/bvus8maneewhxhk/AACpXCwufQSTb2FyYe8HFChFa?dl=0) - -#### YouTube - -- [Automated Injection Molding Machine Demonstration](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Eq9IbetsLB4\&t=2s) - -#### Opensource Designs - -- [CAD Files, BOM, and Blueprints](https://www.dropbox.com/sh/bvus8maneewhxhk/AACpXCwufQSTb2FyYe8HFChFa?dl=0) \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/make-an-automated-injection-molding-machine/config.json b/howtos/make-an-automated-injection-molding-machine/config.json index bf3fbee9c..76d3d6315 100644 --- a/howtos/make-an-automated-injection-molding-machine/config.json +++ b/howtos/make-an-automated-injection-molding-machine/config.json @@ -34,13 +34,13 @@ "files": [], "time": "1+ months", "comments": [], - "description": "## How-To: Automated Injection Molding Machine\n\nThis guide explains how we constructed an affordable automated injection molding machine. Due to the folder size, it cannot be uploaded here. Access the folder via the provided Dropbox link.", + "description": "This how-to contains information on how we built a low-cost, automated injection molding machine. Unfortunately the folder is way to big for uploading it here. \n\nWe added a link to our dropbox, where you can download the folder :)", "mentions": [], "steps": [ { "title": "Download the folder", "_animationKey": "unique1", - "text": "Download and carefully read the Guide.pdf.\n\nLink:\n\n[Dropbox: Guide](https://www.dropbox.com/sh/bvus8maneewhxhk/AACpXCwufQSTb2FyYe8HFChFa?dl=0)\n\nNote: The machine is still a work in progress. A troubleshooting chapter is included for improvements.\n\nThe Guide.pdf outlines the structure and key information.\n\nThe package includes:\n\n- CAD files\n- Bill of Materials (BOM)\n- Blueprints\n- Program\n- Circuit diagram\n- Additional pictures\n\nWe've included detailed information to ensure clarity.", + "text": "Download and read carefully the Guide.pdf.\n\nLink:\n\ndropbox.com: dropbox.com/sh/bvus8maneewhxhk/AACpXCwufQSTb2FyYe8HFChFa?dl=0\n\nIMPORTANT! The machine is still work in progress and not perfect yet. We added a troubleshooting chapter in the download with details on what has to be improved.\n\nThe Guide.pdf contains the most important informations and gives you an idea how all the info is structured.\n\nThe package contains:\n\n- CAD\n- Bill of material (BOM)\n- Blueprints\n- Program\n- Circuit diagram\n- Additional pictures\n- ...\n\nWe decided to rather put a little bit more information than to few. So dont be scared when we are going a bit into the details :)", "images": [ { "size": 80283, @@ -121,7 +121,7 @@ "alt": "CAD angle.PNG" } ], - "text": "### Machine Building Consideration\n\nEnsure your skills are sufficient before attempting to build this machine, as it is significantly more complex than standard injection or extrusion machines. A comprehensive CAD detailing the current version is available in the download folder." + "text": "Before you consider building this machine, make sure that it is within your capabilities.\n\nIt is much more complex than a normal injection or extrusion machine.\n\nIn the download folder there is a very detailed CAD of the current state :)" }, { "_animationKey": "unique3", @@ -164,7 +164,7 @@ } ], "title": "Replicate and do even better;)", - "text": "To take on the challenge, construct the machine yourself.\n\nWatch this video to see it in action:\n\n[YouTube Video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Eq9IbetsLB4&t=2s)\n\nIf you have valuable ideas or have enhanced your machine, please share your insights with us.\n\nThank you, SOTOP-Recycling." + "text": "If you want to accept the challenge, then build the machine yourself.\n\nIn this video you see how we can already work with it :)\n\nyoutube.com: youtube.com/watch?v=Eq9IbetsLB4&t=2s\n\nIf you have good Ideas and you made improvements with your machine, please let us know and share back!\n\nEnjoy, SOTOP-Recycling :)" } ], "_deleted": false, @@ -328,9 +328,5 @@ "urls": [] } }, - "content": "## How-To: Automated Injection Molding Machine\n\nThis guide explains how we constructed an affordable automated injection molding machine. Due to the folder size, it cannot be uploaded here. Access the folder via the provided Dropbox link.\n\n\nUser Location: Schopfheim, Germany\n\nDownload and carefully read the Guide.pdf.\n\nLink:\n\n[Dropbox: Guide](https://www.dropbox.com/sh/bvus8maneewhxhk/AACpXCwufQSTb2FyYe8HFChFa?dl=0)\n\nNote: The machine is still a work in progress. A troubleshooting chapter is included for improvements.\n\nThe Guide.pdf outlines the structure and key information.\n\nThe package includes:\n\n- CAD files\n- Bill of Materials (BOM)\n- Blueprints\n- Program\n- Circuit diagram\n- Additional pictures\n\nWe've included detailed information to ensure clarity.\n\n### Machine Building Consideration\n\nEnsure your skills are sufficient before attempting to build this machine, as it is significantly more complex than standard injection or extrusion machines. A comprehensive CAD detailing the current version is available in the download folder.\n\nTo take on the challenge, construct the machine yourself.\n\nWatch this video to see it in action:\n\n[YouTube Video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Eq9IbetsLB4&t=2s)\n\nIf you have valuable ideas or have enhanced your machine, please share your insights with us.\n\nThank you, SOTOP-Recycling.", - "keywords": "automated injection molding machine, affordable injection molding, CAD files, bill of materials, circuit diagram, machine building guide, troubleshooting chapter, construction manual, DIY injection molding, SOTOP-Recycling", - "resources": "## Tools\n\n- CAD software for viewing/editing design files (e.g., Fusion 360[CAD files])\n- Workshop tools (drills, saws, welding equipment)\n- Measurement instruments (calipers, thermometers)\n- 3D printer for custom components[CAD files]\n- Safety gear (gloves, goggles, heat-resistant clothing)\n\n## Software\n\n- CAD program[Guide.pdf]\n- Circuit design software (e.g., KiCad/EAGLE)[Circuit diagram]\n- PLC/microcontroller programming IDE (likely Arduino-based)[Program]\n- CAM software for CNC machining (if replicating metal parts)\n- Data analysis tools for process optimization\n\n## Hardware\n\n- Injection mold assembly[Blueprints][BOM]\n- Heating elements and temperature controllers\n- Pneumatic/hydraulic actuators[Circuit diagram]\n- Stepper/servo motors for automation\n- Customizable frame components[CAD files]\n\nDownload resources: [Dropbox folder](https://www.dropbox.com/sh/bvus8maneewhxhk/AACpXCwufQSTb2FyYe8HFChFa?dl=0)\\\nVideo demonstration: [YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Eq9IbetsLB4\\&t=2s)\n\n*Key components inferred from the BOM, CAD files, and process requirements described in the documentation. Specific quantities/models require accessing the provided materials.*", - "references": "#### Articles\n\n- [Guide to Automated Injection Molding Machine](https://www.dropbox.com/sh/bvus8maneewhxhk/AACpXCwufQSTb2FyYe8HFChFa?dl=0)\n\n#### YouTube\n\n- [Automated Injection Molding Machine Demonstration](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Eq9IbetsLB4\\&t=2s)\n\n#### Opensource Designs\n\n- [CAD Files, BOM, and Blueprints](https://www.dropbox.com/sh/bvus8maneewhxhk/AACpXCwufQSTb2FyYe8HFChFa?dl=0)", - "brief": "Construct an affordable automated injection molding machine with our detailed guide, including CAD files, BOM, and more. Access via our Dropbox link." + "content": "This how-to contains information on how we built a low-cost, automated injection molding machine. Unfortunately the folder is way to big for uploading it here. \n\nWe added a link to our dropbox, where you can download the folder :)\n\n\nUser Location: Schopfheim, Germany\n\nDownload and read carefully the Guide.pdf.\n\nLink:\n\ndropbox.com: dropbox.com/sh/bvus8maneewhxhk/AACpXCwufQSTb2FyYe8HFChFa?dl=0\n\nIMPORTANT! The machine is still work in progress and not perfect yet. We added a troubleshooting chapter in the download with details on what has to be improved.\n\nThe Guide.pdf contains the most important informations and gives you an idea how all the info is structured.\n\nThe package contains:\n\n- CAD\n- Bill of material (BOM)\n- Blueprints\n- Program\n- Circuit diagram\n- Additional pictures\n- ...\n\nWe decided to rather put a little bit more information than to few. So dont be scared when we are going a bit into the details :)\n\nBefore you consider building this machine, make sure that it is within your capabilities.\n\nIt is much more complex than a normal injection or extrusion machine.\n\nIn the download folder there is a very detailed CAD of the current state :)\n\nIf you want to accept the challenge, then build the machine yourself.\n\nIn this video you see how we can already work with it :)\n\nyoutube.com: youtube.com/watch?v=Eq9IbetsLB4&t=2s\n\nIf you have good Ideas and you made improvements with your machine, please let us know and share back!\n\nEnjoy, SOTOP-Recycling :)" } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/make-an-hdpe-knife/README.md b/howtos/make-an-hdpe-knife/README.md index 090d35328..4290ac72b 100644 --- a/howtos/make-an-hdpe-knife/README.md +++ b/howtos/make-an-hdpe-knife/README.md @@ -1,23 +1,23 @@ --- title: Make an HDPE Knife slug: make-an-hdpe-knife -description: This guide demonstrates the creation of a 'reverse knife' with metal scales and a plastic blade using simple home techniques. Although the knife cannot maintain an edge like a metal blade, it is suitable for cutting cake, fruit, and vegetables. A viewer noted it is also ideal for cutting lettuce, as metal knives can cause browning at the cut edges. +description: We show you how to make this 'reverse knife' (metal scales and plastic blade) using at-home techniques and processes. The knife is 'sharpened' but cannot hold an edge the same way a metal blade can. However it works perfectly fine for cake, fruit and vegetables. A commenter on our YouTube video also said it would be perfect for cutting lettuce as metal knives make the cut edge turn brown quickly! tags: ["product","HDPE","sheetpress","melting"] category: Products difficulty: Medium time: < 1 week -keywords: reverse knife, plastic blade, HDPE marbling, DIY knife making, santoku style, metal scales, home techniques, HDPE melting, crafting pins, polished HDPE finish +keywords: location: Bournemouth, United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland (the) --- # Make an HDPE Knife ![Make an HDPE Knife](HDPE_knive_brothersmake.png) -This guide demonstrates the creation of a 'reverse knife' with metal scales and a plastic blade using simple home techniques. Although the knife cannot maintain an edge like a metal blade, it is suitable for cutting cake, fruit, and vegetables. A viewer noted it is also ideal for cutting lettuce, as metal knives can cause browning at the cut edges. +We show you how to make this 'reverse knife' (metal scales and plastic blade) using at-home techniques and processes. The knife is 'sharpened' but cannot hold an edge the same way a metal blade can. However it works perfectly fine for cake, fruit and vegetables. A commenter on our YouTube video also said it would be perfect for cutting lettuce as metal knives make the cut edge turn brown quickly! User Location: Bournemouth, United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland (the) ## Steps ### Step 1: Knife Design -We designed a 'santoku' style knife and created several variations. We then invited feedback on our designs through social media engagement. +We aimed for a 'santoku' style knife and drew a few different designs out. We actually asked our Instagram followers to pick the one they liked the best! ![HDPE knife - 1 - sketch - 2.JPG](./HDPE_knife_-_1_-_sketch_-_2.JPG) @@ -27,9 +27,9 @@ We designed a 'santoku' style knife and created several variations. We then invi ### Step 2: Prepare the Plastic and Mould -For this design, a black and white marble effect was achieved using 'Fortisip' bottles, which are white with a black core. The bottles were cut into thin strips for melting; all plastic used was pre-washed and dried. +Fort this design we wanted a black and white marble effect so we used these bottles (the product is called 'Fortisip') which are white but with a black core. We cut them up into thin strips ready for melting (all the plastic we have stored has already been washed and dried). -The mold is a stacked plywood construction with varnished inner faces to prevent sticking. For detailed instructions on mold construction, refer to our HDPE Stool video. +The mould is a simple stacked plywood construction with varnished inner faces to prevent sticking. We don't go into detail about that here but check out our HDPE Stool video on our YouTube channel where we show the mould construction in more detail. ![HDPE knife - 2 - mould 2.png](./HDPE_knife_-_2_-_mould_2.png) @@ -39,9 +39,9 @@ The mold is a stacked plywood construction with varnished inner faces to prevent ### Step 3: Melt the HDPE -For melting HDPE, a flat plate sandwich toaster is employed. A small toaster oven may also be used for larger quantities requiring prolonged heat. For this project, a thickness of approximately 8mm (0.31 inches) for the blade is targeted, which the sandwich toaster can handle independently. +We use a flat plate sandwich toaster to melt HDPE. We will occasionally use a small toaster oven as well, but this is mostly for larger melts where we need to keep a bigger mass of plastic hot. For this project we were aiming for around 8mm in thickness for the blade so the sandwich toaster can cope fine on its own. -As the plastic melts, it shrinks significantly. Continuously add more plastic every few minutes, taking care to avoid air bubbles. +When melting, the plastic will shrink a lot so keep adding more every few minutes, taking care not to introduce any air bubbles. ![Screenshot 2020-08-05 at 19.58.39.png](./Screenshot_2020-08-05_at_19.58.39.png) @@ -54,9 +54,9 @@ As the plastic melts, it shrinks significantly. Continuously add more plastic ev ### Step 4: Fold and Twist -To enhance the marbling effect and minimize air bubbles, carefully handle the molten plastic to fold and twist it. Exercise extreme caution at all times. We recommend wearing two pairs of gloves; the outer pair should be silicone oven mitts, which are particularly effective for this task. +To maximise the marbling effect and to further reduce air bubbles, we like to pick up the plastic so that we can fold and twist it. Be extremely careful whenever handling molten plastic. We wear 2 pairs of gloves when doing this. The outer pair are called 'silicone oven mitts' and are the best gloves we have tried for doing this. -During folding and twisting, ensure no additional bubbles are introduced. Once satisfied with the result, promptly return the plastic to the sandwich toaster. HDPE cools quickly and must be as hot as possible before transferring to the mold. +When folding and twisting be very careful make sure you are not introducing any more bubbles. Once you are happy, put it back in the sandwich toaster (HDPE cools rapidly and it needs to be as hot as possible before transferring to the mould!) ![Screenshot 2020-08-05 at 20.00.47.png](./Screenshot_2020-08-05_at_20.00.47.png) @@ -69,9 +69,9 @@ During folding and twisting, ensure no additional bubbles are introduced. Once s ### Step 5: Press the Sheet -Once the plastic is sufficiently heated, transfer it into the mold, place the top plate, and insert it into the sheet press. We use a DIY 2-ton (1.81 metric tonnes) bottle jack press. +Once the plastic is hot enough, transfer it into the mould, put on the top plate and get it into the sheet press. We are using our DIY 2-tonne bottle jack press. We also have a video of how to make this on our YouTube channel. -Allow it to cool overnight. As HDPE cools, it shrinks, so add more pressure every 5-10 minutes for the first hour to ensure a flat, warp-free sheet. +Leave to cool overnight. The HDPE will shrink as it cools so we like to come back every 5-10 minutes to add more pressure for the first hour or so. That way you will end up with the flattest sheet possible with no warping. ![Screenshot 2020-08-05 at 20.01.07.png](./Screenshot_2020-08-05_at_20.01.07.png) @@ -84,7 +84,7 @@ Allow it to cool overnight. As HDPE cools, it shrinks, so add more pressure ever ### Step 6: De-Mould and Apply Template -The sheet typically releases easily from the mold; however, pliers may be needed for assistance. After removal, trim any excess material and apply the selected template design. +The sheet often pops right out of the mould but occasionally we need to gently persuade it with some pliers. Once the sheet is out we cut off any flashing (saving to reuse again of course!) and stick on the chosen template design. ![Screenshot 2020-08-05 at 20.06.08.png](./Screenshot_2020-08-05_at_20.06.08.png) @@ -97,7 +97,7 @@ The sheet typically releases easily from the mold; however, pliers may be needed ### Step 7: Cut out the Blade -The scroll saw is preferred for its efficiency in minimizing waste. Waste material is saved for future use. Cutting reveals a glimpse of the marble effect on the blank. +We like to use the scroll saw for this as it creates much less waste. Wherever possible we keep as much of the waste produced for future projects. The cut edges gives a glimpse of the marble effect on the blank! ![IMG_2100.JPG](./IMG_2100.JPG) @@ -110,7 +110,7 @@ The scroll saw is preferred for its efficiency in minimizing waste. Waste materi ### Step 8: Start the Aluminium Scales -We used an 8 mm (5/16 in) aluminum plate for the scales. We traced the template onto the metal and cut out two pieces with an angle grinder. Then, we marked the three hole positions for the pins and made center punches. +We used 8mm aluminium plate for the scales. We traced the template onto the metal and cut out 2 pieces with an angle grinder. We also marked out the 3 hole positions for the pins and centre-punched these. ![Screenshot 2020-08-05 at 20.01.55.png](./Screenshot_2020-08-05_at_20.01.55.png) @@ -123,7 +123,7 @@ We used an 8 mm (5/16 in) aluminum plate for the scales. We traced the template ### Step 9: Drill and Shape the Scales -We drilled the three pinholes and used brass rods with a little superglue to hold the two scales together. This ensures uniform shaping on the grinder. +We drilled the 3 pin holes and used some brass rod with a small amount of superglue to hold the 2 scales together. This way when we are shaping on our grinder they both come out exactly the same. ![Screenshot 2020-08-05 at 20.03.00.png](./Screenshot_2020-08-05_at_20.03.00.png) @@ -136,7 +136,7 @@ We drilled the three pinholes and used brass rods with a little superglue to hol ### Step 10: Transfer the Holes to the HDPE -After shaping the scales, we removed the pins and aligned the handles with the plastic blade. These were then clamped in place, and we drilled to mark the exact locations on the plastic. We also added a deep countersink to the outer surfaces of the aluminum (aluminium) scales. +Once we were happy with the shape of the scales, we tapped out the pins and carefully lined up the handles with the plastic blade. This was clamped in position and we then drilled through to get the exact locations onto the plastic. We also added a deep countersink to the outer faces of each of the aluminium scales. ![Screenshot 2020-08-05 at 20.07.24.png](./Screenshot_2020-08-05_at_20.07.24.png) @@ -146,9 +146,9 @@ After shaping the scales, we removed the pins and aligned the handles with the p ### Step 11: Making HDPE Pins -To match the blade, we crafted pins from leftover HDPE. We cut a long, thin piece, chiseled the corners, and used a drill with sandpaper to form a dowel. This dowel was then cut into pieces for pins. +We wanted the pins to match the blade, so we figured we would try and make out own out of some of the leftover HDPE. We cut a long, thin piece and then used a chisel to take off the corners. We then held this in our drill and used some sandpaper to turn this into a long dowel that we could then cut into pieces for our pins. -This was our first attempt, and it was successful. +It was the first time we tried this and it worked great! ![Screenshot 2020-08-05 at 20.07.42.png](./Screenshot_2020-08-05_at_20.07.42.png) @@ -161,7 +161,7 @@ This was our first attempt, and it was successful. ### Step 12: Fixing the Pins -We inserted the pins into the handle and used a heat gun to soften the plastic until it could be pressed against a hard surface. This initial step ensured the pins were roughly positioned. After repeating this for all three pins, we carefully heated both sides of each pin, avoiding the plastic blade, and secured them tightly in a vice. As the plastic cools and shrinks, remember to tighten it every 5–10 minutes. +We inserted the pins into the handle and used a heat gun to soften the plastic until it could be pressed firmly against a hard surface. This was to get it roughly in place so it didn't matter if it wasn't perfect. Once we had done this for all 3 pins, we gently heated up both sides of each of the 3 pins (being VERY careful not to heat up the plastic blade!) and clamped it as tight as possible in a vice. Remember it will shrink as it cools, so keep tightening it every 5-10 mins! ![Screenshot 2020-08-05 at 20.08.20.png](./Screenshot_2020-08-05_at_20.08.20.png) @@ -174,7 +174,7 @@ We inserted the pins into the handle and used a heat gun to soften the plastic u ### Step 13: Sand the Pins Flush -We carefully sanded the pins flush with the surface of the aluminum (aluminium) scales. Due to the low melting point of HDPE, it can warp easily, so we kept it cool by frequently dunking it in water. The pins turned out well. +We VERY carefully sanded the pins flush to the surface of the aluminium scales. The low melting temperature of HDPE means that it warps incredibly easily so we kept is cool by dunking it in a bucket of water every few seconds. The pins turned out awesome though! ![Screenshot 2020-08-05 at 20.09.11.png](./Screenshot_2020-08-05_at_20.09.11.png) @@ -184,7 +184,9 @@ We carefully sanded the pins flush with the surface of the aluminum (aluminium) ### Step 14: Final Shaping on the Blade -We refined the shape of the plastic blade with a belt grinder and spindle sander, drawing and sanding to the bevel line. It was challenging because the plastic becomes fragile near a sharp point, risking potential splitting at the edge, so we avoided making it too thin. +We refined the shape of the plastic blade using the belt grinder and spindle sander. We also draw on our bevel line and sanded to this using the belt grinder. + +This was tricky as the plastic turns very 'paper-y' as it gets towards a sharp point. So we didn't try to make it too thin otherwise it could have potentially split on the very edge. ![Screenshot 2020-08-05 at 20.09.20.png](./Screenshot_2020-08-05_at_20.09.20.png) @@ -197,11 +199,9 @@ We refined the shape of the plastic blade with a belt grinder and spindle sander ### Step 15: Final Finishing. -### Tutorial for a Polished HDPE Finish +HDPE finishes really well straight off of a sharp tool. To really bring out the marble effect, we took a razor blade to 'scrape' the surface of the plastic. This left a great finish and required no more sanding. -HDPE polishes well with sharp tools. To enhance the marble effect, use a razor blade to scrape the plastic surface, achieving a smooth finish without the need for further sanding. - -For finishing, wet sand the handle with paper up to 2000 grit, then use Micro Mesh from 2000 to 20,000 grit for optimal results. +To finish the handle we wet sanded up to 2,000 grit with wet and dry paper. We then used a product called Micro Mesh to take it from 2,000 to 20,000 grit which gave it a great finish. ![Screenshot 2020-08-05 at 20.09.46.png](./Screenshot_2020-08-05_at_20.09.46.png) @@ -214,7 +214,7 @@ For finishing, wet sand the handle with paper up to 2000 grit, then use Micro Me ### Step 16: Test it out! -We inquired what our supporters wanted us to cut with the knife, and the top requests were a cake and a tomato. We successfully cut both, although the blade had some difficulty with the banana cake's crust. +We asked our Patrons what they would like to see us cut with the knife and the 2 overwhelming responses were CAKE and A TOMATO! So that's exactly what we did! The blade actually cut them both surprisingly well, however it did struggle to get through the sugary crust on the banana cake (it tasted great though!) ![IMG_2162.jpg](./IMG_2162.jpg) @@ -227,79 +227,12 @@ We inquired what our supporters wanted us to cut with the knife, and the top req ### Step 17: Watch the Video! -## Tutorial Overview +Most of the images were taken as screen captures from the video we produced. If you want to watch it then it is linked below. Would be great to hear what you think! -Most images are screen captures from our video, linked below. Your feedback is welcome. +We hope this How-To was helpful! -We hope this guide is helpful. - -Matt & Jonny +Matt & Jonny Brothers Make ## Resources -### Tools - -- Scroll saw (minimizes material waste) -- Angle grinder (cutting aluminum scales) -- Drill (creating pinholes in scales) -- Belt grinder/spindle sander (shaping plastic blade) -- Heat gun (softening HDPE pins) - -### Hardware - -- Sandwich toaster (melting HDPE sheets) -- DIY 2-ton bottle jack press (mold compression) -- Plywood mold with varnished surfaces (prevents sticking) -- Small toaster oven (large-scale HDPE melting) -- Sheet press (flattening heated plastic) - -### Materials & Safety - -- HDPE plastic (from Fortisip bottles) -- 8 mm aluminum plate (handle scales) -- Brass rods (temporary handle alignment) -- Super glue (scale adhesion) -- Silicone oven mitts (heat protection) - -### Additional Tools & Links - -- Pliers (sheet removal from mold) -- Micro Mesh pads (up to 20,000 grit for polishing) -- Razor blade (HDPE surface scraping) -- ~~[HDPE Stool video](insert_link)~~ (mold construction guide) -- ~~[Full tutorial video](insert_link)~~ (visual references) -## References -## References - -### Articles - -- [Reverse Injection Mold | Precision Molded Plastics Inc](https://www.precisionmoldedplastics.com/blog/reverse-injection-mold/) -- Make an HDPE Knife - [filtered] Academy -- [Knife Making 101 (Reductive Process) - Instructables](https://www.instructables.com/Knife-Making-101-reductive-Process/) - -### Books - -- [$50 Knife Shop Revised - Wayne Goddard (Tharwa Valley Forge)](https://www.tharwavalleyforge.com/articles/recommended-books) -- [Step by Step Knifemaking: You Can Do It - David Boye](https://www.boyeknives.com/pages/new-step-by-step-knifemaking) -- [A Modern Guide to Knifemaking - Laura Zerra](https://www.furfishgame.com/store/product435.html) - -### YouTube - -- [Making a Stool from Recycled Plastic - Brothers Make](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ajjEmuvi4qs) -- [Making Adirondack Chairs From HDPE](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oUdMJ_T4eKg) -- [Knife Making 101: How To Make Your First Knife](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nk7vu2RYxvI) - -### Open Source Designs - -- [Knifeprint - Knife Design Platform](https://knifeprint.com) -- [Modular Knife Holder in OpenSCAD - GitHub](https://github.com/nickshabazz/knifeholder) - -### Community Tutorials - -- [How to Instructions for Making a Knife - BladeForums](https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/how-to-instructions-for-making-a-knife.694673/) -- HDPE Recycling Techniques - [filtered] Community - -### Technical Papers - -- [Designing the Internet of Things (PDF)](https://madsg.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/Designing_the_Internet_of_Things.pdf) -- ~~[Raspberry Pi Projects Book (PDF)](https://scibizsw.com/20_THE%20OFFICIAL%20RASPBERRY%20PI%20PROJECTS%20BOOK%20v3.pdf)~~ \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/make-an-hdpe-knife/config.json b/howtos/make-an-hdpe-knife/config.json index fe91337f9..1d9044b3e 100644 --- a/howtos/make-an-hdpe-knife/config.json +++ b/howtos/make-an-hdpe-knife/config.json @@ -12,7 +12,7 @@ "melting" ], "_id": "juirP5M4Q3u2FNeIeb5u", - "description": "This guide demonstrates the creation of a 'reverse knife' with metal scales and a plastic blade using simple home techniques. Although the knife cannot maintain an edge like a metal blade, it is suitable for cutting cake, fruit, and vegetables. A viewer noted it is also ideal for cutting lettuce, as metal knives can cause browning at the cut edges.", + "description": "We show you how to make this 'reverse knife' (metal scales and plastic blade) using at-home techniques and processes. The knife is 'sharpened' but cannot hold an edge the same way a metal blade can. However it works perfectly fine for cake, fruit and vegetables. A commenter on our YouTube video also said it would be perfect for cutting lettuce as metal knives make the cut edge turn brown quickly!", "difficulty_level": "Medium", "category": { "label": "Products", @@ -38,7 +38,7 @@ { "_animationKey": "unique1", "title": "Knife Design", - "text": "We designed a 'santoku' style knife and created several variations. We then invited feedback on our designs through social media engagement.", + "text": "We aimed for a 'santoku' style knife and drew a few different designs out. We actually asked our Instagram followers to pick the one they liked the best!", "images": [ { "downloadUrl": "https://firebasestorage.googleapis.com/v0/b/onearmyworld.appspot.com/o/uploads%2Fhowtos%2FjuirP5M4Q3u2FNeIeb5u%2FHDPE%20knife%20-%201%20-%20sketch%20-%202.JPG?alt=media&token=b7721780-a525-414d-8d31-09621e955043", @@ -67,7 +67,7 @@ ] }, { - "text": "For this design, a black and white marble effect was achieved using 'Fortisip' bottles, which are white with a black core. The bottles were cut into thin strips for melting; all plastic used was pre-washed and dried.\n\nThe mold is a stacked plywood construction with varnished inner faces to prevent sticking. For detailed instructions on mold construction, refer to our HDPE Stool video.", + "text": "Fort this design we wanted a black and white marble effect so we used these bottles (the product is called 'Fortisip') which are white but with a black core. We cut them up into thin strips ready for melting (all the plastic we have stored has already been washed and dried).\n\nThe mould is a simple stacked plywood construction with varnished inner faces to prevent sticking. We don't go into detail about that here but check out our HDPE Stool video on our YouTube channel where we show the mould construction in more detail. ", "title": "Prepare the Plastic and Mould", "images": [ { @@ -136,7 +136,7 @@ "alt": "Screenshot 2020-08-05 at 19.59.00.png" } ], - "text": "For melting HDPE, a flat plate sandwich toaster is employed. A small toaster oven may also be used for larger quantities requiring prolonged heat. For this project, a thickness of approximately 8mm (0.31 inches) for the blade is targeted, which the sandwich toaster can handle independently.\n\nAs the plastic melts, it shrinks significantly. Continuously add more plastic every few minutes, taking care to avoid air bubbles.", + "text": "We use a flat plate sandwich toaster to melt HDPE. We will occasionally use a small toaster oven as well, but this is mostly for larger melts where we need to keep a bigger mass of plastic hot. For this project we were aiming for around 8mm in thickness for the blade so the sandwich toaster can cope fine on its own.\n\nWhen melting, the plastic will shrink a lot so keep adding more every few minutes, taking care not to introduce any air bubbles.", "_animationKey": "unique3", "title": "Melt the HDPE" }, @@ -181,11 +181,11 @@ } ], "_animationKey": "uniquec1fviv", - "text": "To enhance the marbling effect and minimize air bubbles, carefully handle the molten plastic to fold and twist it. Exercise extreme caution at all times. We recommend wearing two pairs of gloves; the outer pair should be silicone oven mitts, which are particularly effective for this task.\n\nDuring folding and twisting, ensure no additional bubbles are introduced. Once satisfied with the result, promptly return the plastic to the sandwich toaster. HDPE cools quickly and must be as hot as possible before transferring to the mold." + "text": "To maximise the marbling effect and to further reduce air bubbles, we like to pick up the plastic so that we can fold and twist it. Be extremely careful whenever handling molten plastic. We wear 2 pairs of gloves when doing this. The outer pair are called 'silicone oven mitts' and are the best gloves we have tried for doing this.\n\nWhen folding and twisting be very careful make sure you are not introducing any more bubbles. Once you are happy, put it back in the sandwich toaster (HDPE cools rapidly and it needs to be as hot as possible before transferring to the mould!)" }, { "_animationKey": "uniqueyu9j6d", - "text": "Once the plastic is sufficiently heated, transfer it into the mold, place the top plate, and insert it into the sheet press. We use a DIY 2-ton (1.81 metric tonnes) bottle jack press.\n\nAllow it to cool overnight. As HDPE cools, it shrinks, so add more pressure every 5-10 minutes for the first hour to ensure a flat, warp-free sheet.", + "text": "Once the plastic is hot enough, transfer it into the mould, put on the top plate and get it into the sheet press. We are using our DIY 2-tonne bottle jack press. We also have a video of how to make this on our YouTube channel.\n\nLeave to cool overnight. The HDPE will shrink as it cools so we like to come back every 5-10 minutes to add more pressure for the first hour or so. That way you will end up with the flattest sheet possible with no warping.", "images": [ { "timeCreated": "2020-08-05T23:12:49.968Z", @@ -267,7 +267,7 @@ ], "title": "De-Mould and Apply Template", "_animationKey": "uniqueyqetvs", - "text": "The sheet typically releases easily from the mold; however, pliers may be needed for assistance. After removal, trim any excess material and apply the selected template design." + "text": "The sheet often pops right out of the mould but occasionally we need to gently persuade it with some pliers. Once the sheet is out we cut off any flashing (saving to reuse again of course!) and stick on the chosen template design." }, { "images": [ @@ -310,10 +310,10 @@ ], "title": "Cut out the Blade", "_animationKey": "uniqueqfgrnb", - "text": "The scroll saw is preferred for its efficiency in minimizing waste. Waste material is saved for future use. Cutting reveals a glimpse of the marble effect on the blank." + "text": "We like to use the scroll saw for this as it creates much less waste. Wherever possible we keep as much of the waste produced for future projects. The cut edges gives a glimpse of the marble effect on the blank!" }, { - "text": "We used an 8 mm (5/16 in) aluminum plate for the scales. We traced the template onto the metal and cut out two pieces with an angle grinder. Then, we marked the three hole positions for the pins and made center punches.", + "text": "We used 8mm aluminium plate for the scales. We traced the template onto the metal and cut out 2 pieces with an angle grinder. We also marked out the 3 hole positions for the pins and centre-punched these.", "images": [ { "type": "image/jpeg", @@ -396,7 +396,7 @@ } ], "_animationKey": "uniqueo54ds7", - "text": "We drilled the three pinholes and used brass rods with a little superglue to hold the two scales together. This ensures uniform shaping on the grinder." + "text": "We drilled the 3 pin holes and used some brass rod with a small amount of superglue to hold the 2 scales together. This way when we are shaping on our grinder they both come out exactly the same." }, { "images": [ @@ -427,7 +427,7 @@ ], "_animationKey": "uniqueh1e4uk", "title": "Transfer the Holes to the HDPE", - "text": "After shaping the scales, we removed the pins and aligned the handles with the plastic blade. These were then clamped in place, and we drilled to mark the exact locations on the plastic. We also added a deep countersink to the outer surfaces of the aluminum (aluminium) scales." + "text": "Once we were happy with the shape of the scales, we tapped out the pins and carefully lined up the handles with the plastic blade. This was clamped in position and we then drilled through to get the exact locations onto the plastic. We also added a deep countersink to the outer faces of each of the aluminium scales." }, { "images": [ @@ -470,7 +470,7 @@ ], "title": "Making HDPE Pins", "_animationKey": "uniqueiedjw", - "text": "To match the blade, we crafted pins from leftover HDPE. We cut a long, thin piece, chiseled the corners, and used a drill with sandpaper to form a dowel. This dowel was then cut into pieces for pins.\n\nThis was our first attempt, and it was successful." + "text": "We wanted the pins to match the blade, so we figured we would try and make out own out of some of the leftover HDPE. We cut a long, thin piece and then used a chisel to take off the corners. We then held this in our drill and used some sandpaper to turn this into a long dowel that we could then cut into pieces for our pins.\n\nIt was the first time we tried this and it worked great!" }, { "images": [ @@ -512,11 +512,11 @@ } ], "title": "Fixing the Pins", - "text": "We inserted the pins into the handle and used a heat gun to soften the plastic until it could be pressed against a hard surface. This initial step ensured the pins were roughly positioned. After repeating this for all three pins, we carefully heated both sides of each pin, avoiding the plastic blade, and secured them tightly in a vice. As the plastic cools and shrinks, remember to tighten it every 5–10 minutes.", + "text": "We inserted the pins into the handle and used a heat gun to soften the plastic until it could be pressed firmly against a hard surface. This was to get it roughly in place so it didn't matter if it wasn't perfect. Once we had done this for all 3 pins, we gently heated up both sides of each of the 3 pins (being VERY careful not to heat up the plastic blade!) and clamped it as tight as possible in a vice. Remember it will shrink as it cools, so keep tightening it every 5-10 mins!", "_animationKey": "unique4ku3tj" }, { - "text": "We carefully sanded the pins flush with the surface of the aluminum (aluminium) scales. Due to the low melting point of HDPE, it can warp easily, so we kept it cool by frequently dunking it in water. The pins turned out well.", + "text": "We VERY carefully sanded the pins flush to the surface of the aluminium scales. The low melting temperature of HDPE means that it warps incredibly easily so we kept is cool by dunking it in a bucket of water every few seconds. The pins turned out awesome though!", "images": [ { "contentType": "image/jpeg", @@ -548,7 +548,7 @@ }, { "_animationKey": "uniquergs28", - "text": "We refined the shape of the plastic blade with a belt grinder and spindle sander, drawing and sanding to the bevel line. It was challenging because the plastic becomes fragile near a sharp point, risking potential splitting at the edge, so we avoided making it too thin.", + "text": "We refined the shape of the plastic blade using the belt grinder and spindle sander. We also draw on our bevel line and sanded to this using the belt grinder.\n\nThis was tricky as the plastic turns very 'paper-y' as it gets towards a sharp point. So we didn't try to make it too thin otherwise it could have potentially split on the very edge.", "images": [ { "downloadUrl": "https://firebasestorage.googleapis.com/v0/b/onearmyworld.appspot.com/o/uploads%2Fhowtos%2FjuirP5M4Q3u2FNeIeb5u%2FScreenshot%202020-08-05%20at%2020.09.20.png?alt=media&token=6948d526-0a76-45a7-8996-d92b58faaa24", @@ -629,7 +629,7 @@ "alt": "Screenshot 2020-08-05 at 20.10.18.png" } ], - "text": "### Tutorial for a Polished HDPE Finish\n\nHDPE polishes well with sharp tools. To enhance the marble effect, use a razor blade to scrape the plastic surface, achieving a smooth finish without the need for further sanding.\n\nFor finishing, wet sand the handle with paper up to 2000 grit, then use Micro Mesh from 2000 to 20,000 grit for optimal results.", + "text": "HDPE finishes really well straight off of a sharp tool. To really bring out the marble effect, we took a razor blade to 'scrape' the surface of the plastic. This left a great finish and required no more sanding.\n\nTo finish the handle we wet sanded up to 2,000 grit with wet and dry paper. We then used a product called Micro Mesh to take it from 2,000 to 20,000 grit which gave it a great finish.", "_animationKey": "uniquegsuc2" }, { @@ -672,11 +672,11 @@ "alt": "Screenshot 2020-08-05 at 20.10.49.png" } ], - "text": "We inquired what our supporters wanted us to cut with the knife, and the top requests were a cake and a tomato. We successfully cut both, although the blade had some difficulty with the banana cake's crust.", + "text": "We asked our Patrons what they would like to see us cut with the knife and the 2 overwhelming responses were CAKE and A TOMATO! So that's exactly what we did! The blade actually cut them both surprisingly well, however it did struggle to get through the sugary crust on the banana cake (it tasted great though!)", "title": "Test it out!" }, { - "text": "## Tutorial Overview\n\nMost images are screen captures from our video, linked below. Your feedback is welcome.\n\nWe hope this guide is helpful.\n\nMatt & Jonny \nBrothers Make", + "text": "Most of the images were taken as screen captures from the video we produced. If you want to watch it then it is linked below. Would be great to hear what you think!\n\nWe hope this How-To was helpful!\n\nMatt & Jonny\nBrothers Make", "title": "Watch the Video!", "images": [], "_animationKey": "unique6sfqf", @@ -868,9 +868,5 @@ "urls": [] } }, - "content": "This guide demonstrates the creation of a 'reverse knife' with metal scales and a plastic blade using simple home techniques. Although the knife cannot maintain an edge like a metal blade, it is suitable for cutting cake, fruit, and vegetables. A viewer noted it is also ideal for cutting lettuce, as metal knives can cause browning at the cut edges.\n\n\nUser Location: Bournemouth, United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland (the)\n\nWe designed a 'santoku' style knife and created several variations. We then invited feedback on our designs through social media engagement.\n\nFor this design, a black and white marble effect was achieved using 'Fortisip' bottles, which are white with a black core. The bottles were cut into thin strips for melting; all plastic used was pre-washed and dried.\n\nThe mold is a stacked plywood construction with varnished inner faces to prevent sticking. For detailed instructions on mold construction, refer to our HDPE Stool video.\n\nFor melting HDPE, a flat plate sandwich toaster is employed. A small toaster oven may also be used for larger quantities requiring prolonged heat. For this project, a thickness of approximately 8mm (0.31 inches) for the blade is targeted, which the sandwich toaster can handle independently.\n\nAs the plastic melts, it shrinks significantly. Continuously add more plastic every few minutes, taking care to avoid air bubbles.\n\nTo enhance the marbling effect and minimize air bubbles, carefully handle the molten plastic to fold and twist it. Exercise extreme caution at all times. We recommend wearing two pairs of gloves; the outer pair should be silicone oven mitts, which are particularly effective for this task.\n\nDuring folding and twisting, ensure no additional bubbles are introduced. Once satisfied with the result, promptly return the plastic to the sandwich toaster. HDPE cools quickly and must be as hot as possible before transferring to the mold.\n\nOnce the plastic is sufficiently heated, transfer it into the mold, place the top plate, and insert it into the sheet press. We use a DIY 2-ton (1.81 metric tonnes) bottle jack press.\n\nAllow it to cool overnight. As HDPE cools, it shrinks, so add more pressure every 5-10 minutes for the first hour to ensure a flat, warp-free sheet.\n\nThe sheet typically releases easily from the mold; however, pliers may be needed for assistance. After removal, trim any excess material and apply the selected template design.\n\nThe scroll saw is preferred for its efficiency in minimizing waste. Waste material is saved for future use. Cutting reveals a glimpse of the marble effect on the blank.\n\nWe used an 8 mm (5/16 in) aluminum plate for the scales. We traced the template onto the metal and cut out two pieces with an angle grinder. Then, we marked the three hole positions for the pins and made center punches.\n\nWe drilled the three pinholes and used brass rods with a little superglue to hold the two scales together. This ensures uniform shaping on the grinder.\n\nAfter shaping the scales, we removed the pins and aligned the handles with the plastic blade. These were then clamped in place, and we drilled to mark the exact locations on the plastic. We also added a deep countersink to the outer surfaces of the aluminum (aluminium) scales.\n\nTo match the blade, we crafted pins from leftover HDPE. We cut a long, thin piece, chiseled the corners, and used a drill with sandpaper to form a dowel. This dowel was then cut into pieces for pins.\n\nThis was our first attempt, and it was successful.\n\nWe inserted the pins into the handle and used a heat gun to soften the plastic until it could be pressed against a hard surface. This initial step ensured the pins were roughly positioned. After repeating this for all three pins, we carefully heated both sides of each pin, avoiding the plastic blade, and secured them tightly in a vice. As the plastic cools and shrinks, remember to tighten it every 5–10 minutes.\n\nWe carefully sanded the pins flush with the surface of the aluminum (aluminium) scales. Due to the low melting point of HDPE, it can warp easily, so we kept it cool by frequently dunking it in water. The pins turned out well.\n\nWe refined the shape of the plastic blade with a belt grinder and spindle sander, drawing and sanding to the bevel line. It was challenging because the plastic becomes fragile near a sharp point, risking potential splitting at the edge, so we avoided making it too thin.\n\n### Tutorial for a Polished HDPE Finish\n\nHDPE polishes well with sharp tools. To enhance the marble effect, use a razor blade to scrape the plastic surface, achieving a smooth finish without the need for further sanding.\n\nFor finishing, wet sand the handle with paper up to 2000 grit, then use Micro Mesh from 2000 to 20,000 grit for optimal results.\n\nWe inquired what our supporters wanted us to cut with the knife, and the top requests were a cake and a tomato. We successfully cut both, although the blade had some difficulty with the banana cake's crust.\n\n## Tutorial Overview\n\nMost images are screen captures from our video, linked below. Your feedback is welcome.\n\nWe hope this guide is helpful.\n\nMatt & Jonny \nBrothers Make", - "keywords": "reverse knife, plastic blade, HDPE marbling, DIY knife making, santoku style, metal scales, home techniques, HDPE melting, crafting pins, polished HDPE finish", - "resources": "### Tools\n\n- Scroll saw (minimizes material waste)\n- Angle grinder (cutting aluminum scales)\n- Drill (creating pinholes in scales)\n- Belt grinder/spindle sander (shaping plastic blade)\n- Heat gun (softening HDPE pins)\n\n### Hardware\n\n- Sandwich toaster (melting HDPE sheets)\n- DIY 2-ton bottle jack press (mold compression)\n- Plywood mold with varnished surfaces (prevents sticking)\n- Small toaster oven (large-scale HDPE melting)\n- Sheet press (flattening heated plastic)\n\n### Materials & Safety\n\n- HDPE plastic (from Fortisip bottles)\n- 8 mm aluminum plate (handle scales)\n- Brass rods (temporary handle alignment)\n- Super glue (scale adhesion)\n- Silicone oven mitts (heat protection)\n\n### Additional Tools & Links\n\n- Pliers (sheet removal from mold)\n- Micro Mesh pads (up to 20,000 grit for polishing)\n- Razor blade (HDPE surface scraping)\n- ~~[HDPE Stool video](insert_link)~~ (mold construction guide)\n- ~~[Full tutorial video](insert_link)~~ (visual references)", - "references": "## References\n\n### Articles\n\n- [Reverse Injection Mold | Precision Molded Plastics Inc](https://www.precisionmoldedplastics.com/blog/reverse-injection-mold/)\n- Make an HDPE Knife - [filtered] Academy\n- [Knife Making 101 (Reductive Process) - Instructables](https://www.instructables.com/Knife-Making-101-reductive-Process/)\n\n### Books\n\n- [$50 Knife Shop Revised - Wayne Goddard (Tharwa Valley Forge)](https://www.tharwavalleyforge.com/articles/recommended-books)\n- [Step by Step Knifemaking: You Can Do It - David Boye](https://www.boyeknives.com/pages/new-step-by-step-knifemaking)\n- [A Modern Guide to Knifemaking - Laura Zerra](https://www.furfishgame.com/store/product435.html)\n\n### YouTube\n\n- [Making a Stool from Recycled Plastic - Brothers Make](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ajjEmuvi4qs)\n- [Making Adirondack Chairs From HDPE](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oUdMJ_T4eKg)\n- [Knife Making 101: How To Make Your First Knife](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nk7vu2RYxvI)\n\n### Open Source Designs\n\n- [Knifeprint - Knife Design Platform](https://knifeprint.com)\n- [Modular Knife Holder in OpenSCAD - GitHub](https://github.com/nickshabazz/knifeholder)\n\n### Community Tutorials\n\n- [How to Instructions for Making a Knife - BladeForums](https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/how-to-instructions-for-making-a-knife.694673/)\n- HDPE Recycling Techniques - [filtered] Community\n\n### Technical Papers\n\n- [Designing the Internet of Things (PDF)](https://madsg.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/Designing_the_Internet_of_Things.pdf)\n- ~~[Raspberry Pi Projects Book (PDF)](https://scibizsw.com/20_THE%20OFFICIAL%20RASPBERRY%20PI%20PROJECTS%20BOOK%20v3.pdf)~~", - "brief": "Craft a unique 'reverse knife' with a plastic blade and metal scales using home techniques. Perfect for cutting fruits and veggies without browning edges." + "content": "We show you how to make this 'reverse knife' (metal scales and plastic blade) using at-home techniques and processes. The knife is 'sharpened' but cannot hold an edge the same way a metal blade can. However it works perfectly fine for cake, fruit and vegetables. A commenter on our YouTube video also said it would be perfect for cutting lettuce as metal knives make the cut edge turn brown quickly!\n\n\nUser Location: Bournemouth, United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland (the)\n\nWe aimed for a 'santoku' style knife and drew a few different designs out. We actually asked our Instagram followers to pick the one they liked the best!\n\nFort this design we wanted a black and white marble effect so we used these bottles (the product is called 'Fortisip') which are white but with a black core. We cut them up into thin strips ready for melting (all the plastic we have stored has already been washed and dried).\n\nThe mould is a simple stacked plywood construction with varnished inner faces to prevent sticking. We don't go into detail about that here but check out our HDPE Stool video on our YouTube channel where we show the mould construction in more detail. \n\nWe use a flat plate sandwich toaster to melt HDPE. We will occasionally use a small toaster oven as well, but this is mostly for larger melts where we need to keep a bigger mass of plastic hot. For this project we were aiming for around 8mm in thickness for the blade so the sandwich toaster can cope fine on its own.\n\nWhen melting, the plastic will shrink a lot so keep adding more every few minutes, taking care not to introduce any air bubbles.\n\nTo maximise the marbling effect and to further reduce air bubbles, we like to pick up the plastic so that we can fold and twist it. Be extremely careful whenever handling molten plastic. We wear 2 pairs of gloves when doing this. The outer pair are called 'silicone oven mitts' and are the best gloves we have tried for doing this.\n\nWhen folding and twisting be very careful make sure you are not introducing any more bubbles. Once you are happy, put it back in the sandwich toaster (HDPE cools rapidly and it needs to be as hot as possible before transferring to the mould!)\n\nOnce the plastic is hot enough, transfer it into the mould, put on the top plate and get it into the sheet press. We are using our DIY 2-tonne bottle jack press. We also have a video of how to make this on our YouTube channel.\n\nLeave to cool overnight. The HDPE will shrink as it cools so we like to come back every 5-10 minutes to add more pressure for the first hour or so. That way you will end up with the flattest sheet possible with no warping.\n\nThe sheet often pops right out of the mould but occasionally we need to gently persuade it with some pliers. Once the sheet is out we cut off any flashing (saving to reuse again of course!) and stick on the chosen template design.\n\nWe like to use the scroll saw for this as it creates much less waste. Wherever possible we keep as much of the waste produced for future projects. The cut edges gives a glimpse of the marble effect on the blank!\n\nWe used 8mm aluminium plate for the scales. We traced the template onto the metal and cut out 2 pieces with an angle grinder. We also marked out the 3 hole positions for the pins and centre-punched these.\n\nWe drilled the 3 pin holes and used some brass rod with a small amount of superglue to hold the 2 scales together. This way when we are shaping on our grinder they both come out exactly the same.\n\nOnce we were happy with the shape of the scales, we tapped out the pins and carefully lined up the handles with the plastic blade. This was clamped in position and we then drilled through to get the exact locations onto the plastic. We also added a deep countersink to the outer faces of each of the aluminium scales.\n\nWe wanted the pins to match the blade, so we figured we would try and make out own out of some of the leftover HDPE. We cut a long, thin piece and then used a chisel to take off the corners. We then held this in our drill and used some sandpaper to turn this into a long dowel that we could then cut into pieces for our pins.\n\nIt was the first time we tried this and it worked great!\n\nWe inserted the pins into the handle and used a heat gun to soften the plastic until it could be pressed firmly against a hard surface. This was to get it roughly in place so it didn't matter if it wasn't perfect. Once we had done this for all 3 pins, we gently heated up both sides of each of the 3 pins (being VERY careful not to heat up the plastic blade!) and clamped it as tight as possible in a vice. Remember it will shrink as it cools, so keep tightening it every 5-10 mins!\n\nWe VERY carefully sanded the pins flush to the surface of the aluminium scales. The low melting temperature of HDPE means that it warps incredibly easily so we kept is cool by dunking it in a bucket of water every few seconds. The pins turned out awesome though!\n\nWe refined the shape of the plastic blade using the belt grinder and spindle sander. We also draw on our bevel line and sanded to this using the belt grinder.\n\nThis was tricky as the plastic turns very 'paper-y' as it gets towards a sharp point. So we didn't try to make it too thin otherwise it could have potentially split on the very edge.\n\nHDPE finishes really well straight off of a sharp tool. To really bring out the marble effect, we took a razor blade to 'scrape' the surface of the plastic. This left a great finish and required no more sanding.\n\nTo finish the handle we wet sanded up to 2,000 grit with wet and dry paper. We then used a product called Micro Mesh to take it from 2,000 to 20,000 grit which gave it a great finish.\n\nWe asked our Patrons what they would like to see us cut with the knife and the 2 overwhelming responses were CAKE and A TOMATO! So that's exactly what we did! The blade actually cut them both surprisingly well, however it did struggle to get through the sugary crust on the banana cake (it tasted great though!)\n\nMost of the images were taken as screen captures from the video we produced. If you want to watch it then it is linked below. Would be great to hear what you think!\n\nWe hope this How-To was helpful!\n\nMatt & Jonny\nBrothers Make" } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/make-an-under-glass-coaster/README.md b/howtos/make-an-under-glass-coaster/README.md index b70c02e43..9cd9076d6 100644 --- a/howtos/make-an-under-glass-coaster/README.md +++ b/howtos/make-an-under-glass-coaster/README.md @@ -1,25 +1,25 @@ --- title: Make an under glass coaster slug: make-an-under-glass-coaster -description: This tutorial explains how to make an under-glass coaster using a 0.8-inch (20mm) HDPE sheet. +description: This How-to explains how to create a beautiful under glass coaster from a HDPE sheet (20mm). tags: ["sheetpress","HDPE","product"] category: Products difficulty: Easy time: < 5 hours -keywords: under-glass coaster, HDPE sheet, coaster tutorial, Brussels, coaster making, lathe use, polishing machine, coaster design, central drilling, square coaster +keywords: location: Brussels, Belgium --- # Make an under glass coaster ![Make an under glass coaster](A59E05F0-C417-4DEF-B382-64E99D334F1A-7302341C-FCF1-4FA6-832A-B2D7EDAB8602.jpg) -This tutorial explains how to make an under-glass coaster using a 0.8-inch (20mm) HDPE sheet. +This How-to explains how to create a beautiful under glass coaster from a HDPE sheet (20mm). User Location: Brussels, Belgium ## Steps ### Step 1: Cut the squares -Begin by cutting equal squares, spaced 4 inches (10 cm) apart. Precision enhances the aesthetic quality of the coasters. +Start by cutting perfect equal squares 10 cm apart. The more precise they are, the more beautiful your coasters will. -Ensure the plastic sheet is sufficiently thick for hollowing a circle to hold the base of a glass. Use a sheet at least 0.4 inches (1 cm) thick for this purpose. +Make sure that you have a plastic sheet thick enough to be able to hollow out the circle that will accommodate the food of the glass. You need about 5 mm so use a sheet of at least 1cm thick ![IMG_3293.jpg](./IMG_3293.jpg) @@ -29,9 +29,9 @@ Ensure the plastic sheet is sufficiently thick for hollowing a circle to hold th ### Step 2: Hollow the circle (1) -With your squares prepared, use a lathe to create hollow circles. +Now that you have your squares, you need à lathe machine to do your hollow circles. -Secure the square in the clamps and drill a central hole, 0.2 inches (5 mm) deep. +Wedge your square well in the clamping elements and make a first hole in the center of 5 mm deep. ![IMG_3357.jpg](./IMG_3357.jpg) @@ -44,7 +44,9 @@ Secure the square in the clamps and drill a central hole, 0.2 inches (5 mm) deep ### Step 3: Hollow the circle (2) -With the center hole established, proceed with the rest of the circle. Stop when 5 mm (0.2 inches) of edge remains on each side. +Now that you have your center hole you can start to do the rest of the circle. + +Make sure to stop digging when you have 5 mm of edge left on each side. ![IMG_3364.jpg](./IMG_3364.jpg) @@ -54,7 +56,9 @@ With the center hole established, proceed with the rest of the circle. Stop when ### Step 4: smooth it out -With a polishing machine, round the four corners and smooth the surfaces as needed. Additionally, round the edge of the hollow circle. +With a polishing machine, round the 4 angles and smooth the faces if necessary. + +Also round the edge of the hollow circle ![IMG_3371.jpg](./IMG_3371.jpg) @@ -67,7 +71,7 @@ With a polishing machine, round the four corners and smooth the surfaces as need ### Step 5: Final result -Enjoy your drink on a splendid coaster. +Now you can drink a glass on a magnificent under glass coaster :) ![A59E05F0-C417-4DEF-B382-64E99D334F1A-7302341C-FCF1-4FA6-832A-B2D7EDAB8602.jpg](./A59E05F0-C417-4DEF-B382-64E99D334F1A-7302341C-FCF1-4FA6-832A-B2D7EDAB8602.jpg) @@ -79,52 +83,4 @@ Enjoy your drink on a splendid coaster. ![905A90A7-8804-4E78-AF10-A8CDEB32A96D-F24A14D9-7E3A-467F-81A8-6215262871A8.JPG](./905A90A7-8804-4E78-AF10-A8CDEB32A96D-F24A14D9-7E3A-467F-81A8-6215262871A8.JPG) ## Resources -To create an under-glass coaster using a 0.8-inch HDPE sheet, you'll need the following tools and materials: - -### Tools - -- Precision cutting tool (for cutting HDPE into squares) -- Clamps (to secure the sheet during drilling) -- Drill with a 5mm bit (for creating the central hole) -- Polishing machine (to smooth edges and surfaces) - -### Software - -- No specialized software required - -### Hardware - -- **Lathe** (for hollowing the central circle) -- **0.8-inch (20mm) HDPE sheet** (primary material) -- Drill (to create the initial hole) -- Polishing pads or discs (for finishing) - -The process involves cutting, drilling, lathing, and polishing the HDPE sheet to achieve the final design. Ensure precise measurements for aesthetic consistency. -## References -## References - -### Articles - -- [How to Make Craft Resin Coasters (a Step by Step Tutorial)](https://thathomebirdlife.com/diy-make-craft-resin-coasters-step-by-step-tutorial/) -- [HOW TO MAKE CRUSHED GLASS & TIE-DYED CONCRETE COASTERS](https://diyfunideas.com/how-to-make-crushed-glass-tie-dyed-concrete-coasters/) -- [DIY Resin Coasters with Sea Glass](https://lovelyindeed.com/diy-resin-coasters-with-sea-glass/) -- [Make Comic Book Coasters with Mod Podge in Minutes](https://modpodgerocksblog.com/comic-book-coasters/) -- [Quick and Dirty DIY: Drink Coasters](https://thereformschool.net/2020/10/26/quick-and-dirty-diy-drink-coasters/) - -### YouTube - -- [HDPE Epoxy Resin Mold. Re-usable plastic resin mold ...](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2lpxj7_VP9M) -- [Wood and Resin Coaster Mold and Pour](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ESsnpmxzH84) -- [Easy Wine Glass Coaster](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sr_UWjG1eS4) -- [How to Use the Polishing Lathe for Glass](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zSI4cPwONpU) -- [How to Cork & Add Backs to Coasters | Tutorial](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xtG9u3--syQ) - -### Opensource Designs - -- [Let's make a coaster - Carbide Create](https://community.carbide3d.com/t/lets-make-a-coaster/4203) -- [Plastic Smithing: How to Make Your Own HDPE Plastic Anything](https://www.instructables.com/HomemadePlastic/) - -### Commercial Products - -- [16" Cork & Felt Glass Polisher](https://covington-engineering.com/equipment/16-cork-felt-glass-polisher/) -- [Recycled Plastic Round Coaster DIY Workshop Kit](https://www.badgerandbirch.co.uk/shop/b91dq1afczc6yl71kxot7o027upkml) \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/make-an-under-glass-coaster/config.json b/howtos/make-an-under-glass-coaster/config.json index eade6ea00..19aa94ce9 100644 --- a/howtos/make-an-under-glass-coaster/config.json +++ b/howtos/make-an-under-glass-coaster/config.json @@ -14,7 +14,7 @@ ], "steps": [ { - "text": "Begin by cutting equal squares, spaced 4 inches (10 cm) apart. Precision enhances the aesthetic quality of the coasters.\n\nEnsure the plastic sheet is sufficiently thick for hollowing a circle to hold the base of a glass. Use a sheet at least 0.4 inches (1 cm) thick for this purpose.", + "text": "Start by cutting perfect equal squares 10 cm apart. The more precise they are, the more beautiful your coasters will. \n\nMake sure that you have a plastic sheet thick enough to be able to hollow out the circle that will accommodate the food of the glass. You need about 5 mm so use a sheet of at least 1cm thick", "_animationKey": "unique1", "title": "Cut the squares", "images": [ @@ -46,7 +46,7 @@ }, { "title": "Hollow the circle (1)", - "text": "With your squares prepared, use a lathe to create hollow circles.\n\nSecure the square in the clamps and drill a central hole, 0.2 inches (5 mm) deep.", + "text": "Now that you have your squares, you need à lathe machine to do your hollow circles. \n\nWedge your square well in the clamping elements and make a first hole in the center of 5 mm deep. ", "_animationKey": "unique2", "images": [ { @@ -88,7 +88,7 @@ ] }, { - "text": "With the center hole established, proceed with the rest of the circle. Stop when 5 mm (0.2 inches) of edge remains on each side.", + "text": "Now that you have your center hole you can start to do the rest of the circle. \n\nMake sure to stop digging when you have 5 mm of edge left on each side. ", "images": [ { "timeCreated": "2020-10-20T14:28:49.700Z", @@ -159,10 +159,10 @@ } ], "title": "smooth it out", - "text": "With a polishing machine, round the four corners and smooth the surfaces as needed. Additionally, round the edge of the hollow circle." + "text": "With a polishing machine, round the 4 angles and smooth the faces if necessary. \n\nAlso round the edge of the hollow circle" }, { - "text": "Enjoy your drink on a splendid coaster.", + "text": "Now you can drink a glass on a magnificent under glass coaster :)", "_animationKey": "uniquewyb4lxh", "title": "Final result", "images": [ @@ -243,7 +243,7 @@ } ], "_id": "EWKuBfl3auWi28dNqIcy", - "description": "This tutorial explains how to make an under-glass coaster using a 0.8-inch (20mm) HDPE sheet.", + "description": "This How-to explains how to create a beautiful under glass coaster from a HDPE sheet (20mm).", "moderation": "accepted", "_modified": "2023-10-29T19:42:35.486Z", "category": { @@ -422,9 +422,5 @@ "urls": [] } }, - "content": "This tutorial explains how to make an under-glass coaster using a 0.8-inch (20mm) HDPE sheet.\n\n\nUser Location: Brussels, Belgium\n\nBegin by cutting equal squares, spaced 4 inches (10 cm) apart. Precision enhances the aesthetic quality of the coasters.\n\nEnsure the plastic sheet is sufficiently thick for hollowing a circle to hold the base of a glass. Use a sheet at least 0.4 inches (1 cm) thick for this purpose.\n\nWith your squares prepared, use a lathe to create hollow circles.\n\nSecure the square in the clamps and drill a central hole, 0.2 inches (5 mm) deep.\n\nWith the center hole established, proceed with the rest of the circle. Stop when 5 mm (0.2 inches) of edge remains on each side.\n\nWith a polishing machine, round the four corners and smooth the surfaces as needed. Additionally, round the edge of the hollow circle.\n\nEnjoy your drink on a splendid coaster.", - "keywords": "under-glass coaster, HDPE sheet, coaster tutorial, Brussels, coaster making, lathe use, polishing machine, coaster design, central drilling, square coaster", - "resources": "To create an under-glass coaster using a 0.8-inch HDPE sheet, you'll need the following tools and materials:\n\n### Tools\n\n- Precision cutting tool (for cutting HDPE into squares)\n- Clamps (to secure the sheet during drilling)\n- Drill with a 5mm bit (for creating the central hole)\n- Polishing machine (to smooth edges and surfaces)\n\n### Software\n\n- No specialized software required\n\n### Hardware\n\n- **Lathe** (for hollowing the central circle)\n- **0.8-inch (20mm) HDPE sheet** (primary material)\n- Drill (to create the initial hole)\n- Polishing pads or discs (for finishing)\n\nThe process involves cutting, drilling, lathing, and polishing the HDPE sheet to achieve the final design. Ensure precise measurements for aesthetic consistency.", - "references": "## References\n\n### Articles\n\n- [How to Make Craft Resin Coasters (a Step by Step Tutorial)](https://thathomebirdlife.com/diy-make-craft-resin-coasters-step-by-step-tutorial/)\n- [HOW TO MAKE CRUSHED GLASS & TIE-DYED CONCRETE COASTERS](https://diyfunideas.com/how-to-make-crushed-glass-tie-dyed-concrete-coasters/)\n- [DIY Resin Coasters with Sea Glass](https://lovelyindeed.com/diy-resin-coasters-with-sea-glass/)\n- [Make Comic Book Coasters with Mod Podge in Minutes](https://modpodgerocksblog.com/comic-book-coasters/)\n- [Quick and Dirty DIY: Drink Coasters](https://thereformschool.net/2020/10/26/quick-and-dirty-diy-drink-coasters/)\n\n### YouTube\n\n- [HDPE Epoxy Resin Mold. Re-usable plastic resin mold ...](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2lpxj7_VP9M)\n- [Wood and Resin Coaster Mold and Pour](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ESsnpmxzH84)\n- [Easy Wine Glass Coaster](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sr_UWjG1eS4)\n- [How to Use the Polishing Lathe for Glass](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zSI4cPwONpU)\n- [How to Cork & Add Backs to Coasters | Tutorial](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xtG9u3--syQ)\n\n### Opensource Designs\n\n- [Let's make a coaster - Carbide Create](https://community.carbide3d.com/t/lets-make-a-coaster/4203)\n- [Plastic Smithing: How to Make Your Own HDPE Plastic Anything](https://www.instructables.com/HomemadePlastic/)\n\n### Commercial Products\n\n- [16\" Cork & Felt Glass Polisher](https://covington-engineering.com/equipment/16-cork-felt-glass-polisher/)\n- [Recycled Plastic Round Coaster DIY Workshop Kit](https://www.badgerandbirch.co.uk/shop/b91dq1afczc6yl71kxot7o027upkml)", - "brief": "Learn how to craft under-glass coasters from HDPE sheets using this guide. Cut squares, create hollow circles with a lathe, and finish with a polished surface." + "content": "This How-to explains how to create a beautiful under glass coaster from a HDPE sheet (20mm).\n\n\nUser Location: Brussels, Belgium\n\nStart by cutting perfect equal squares 10 cm apart. The more precise they are, the more beautiful your coasters will. \n\nMake sure that you have a plastic sheet thick enough to be able to hollow out the circle that will accommodate the food of the glass. You need about 5 mm so use a sheet of at least 1cm thick\n\nNow that you have your squares, you need à lathe machine to do your hollow circles. \n\nWedge your square well in the clamping elements and make a first hole in the center of 5 mm deep. \n\nNow that you have your center hole you can start to do the rest of the circle. \n\nMake sure to stop digging when you have 5 mm of edge left on each side. \n\nWith a polishing machine, round the 4 angles and smooth the faces if necessary. \n\nAlso round the edge of the hollow circle\n\nNow you can drink a glass on a magnificent under glass coaster :)" } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/make-beam-jewelry--key-rings/README.md b/howtos/make-beam-jewelry--key-rings/README.md index f8c24ee0d..3293f2559 100644 --- a/howtos/make-beam-jewelry--key-rings/README.md +++ b/howtos/make-beam-jewelry--key-rings/README.md @@ -1,23 +1,23 @@ --- title: Make beam jewelry / key rings slug: make-beam-jewelry--key-rings -description: This guide explains the process of polishing a piece of PS BEAMS into a shiny piece of jewelry or key ring. You will need a machine to cut slices of the beams and various polishing grains. An electric polishing machine is recommended for optimal transparency and shine. +description: This how to explain the simple process of polishing a piece of PS BEAMS to a shining and beautiful jewelry or key ring! You will need for this a machine to cut slice of the beames and then different polishing grains. It is better to have an electric polishing machine.. you will get better result with the transparency and the shine :-) tags: ["extrusion","product","PS"] category: Products difficulty: Easy time: < 1 week -keywords: polishing PS BEAMS, jewelry making, electric polishing machine, polishing grains, Brussels jewelry, PS BEAMS slices, transparent jewelry, sculpting jewelry, shiny key rings, jewelry accessories +keywords: location: Brussels, Belgium --- # Make beam jewelry / key rings ![Make beam jewelry / key rings](beam_jewelry.jpg) -This guide explains the process of polishing a piece of PS BEAMS into a shiny piece of jewelry or key ring. You will need a machine to cut slices of the beams and various polishing grains. An electric polishing machine is recommended for optimal transparency and shine. +This how to explain the simple process of polishing a piece of PS BEAMS to a shining and beautiful jewelry or key ring! You will need for this a machine to cut slice of the beames and then different polishing grains. It is better to have an electric polishing machine.. you will get better result with the transparency and the shine :-) User Location: Brussels, Belgium ## Steps ### Step 1: Cut the beames -Begin by cutting the beams into slices or small blocks. Slices are ideal for earrings or necklaces, while blocks are suitable for key rings. Cut slices slightly thicker than the intended final thickness, as polishing will thin them. +The first step is to cut the beams, you can cut slices or little blocks as you want. Slices are better for earrings or necklaces and little blocks are better for key ring. Be sure to cut a slice a little thicker than the desired final thickness because when you polish it will become thinner. ![A1.jpg](./A1.jpg) @@ -30,7 +30,7 @@ Begin by cutting the beams into slices or small blocks. Slices are ideal for ear ### Step 2: Sculpt the slice -Step 2 involves sculpting the slice to achieve the desired shape. Use an electric polishing machine or any preferred method. I will shape it into a round form for making earrings. +Step 2 will be to sculpt the slice to obtain the desired shape. You can sculpt it with an electric polishing machine or with different idea, it is up to you :-) I will sculpt it in a round shape to do earrings. ![IMG_3141.jpg](./IMG_3141.jpg) @@ -43,7 +43,7 @@ Step 2 involves sculpting the slice to achieve the desired shape. Use an electri ### Step 3: Polishing step -Begin polishing your shape by starting with the coarsest grain and finishing with the finest grain. The thinner the grain, the smoother and more transparent the surface will be. Remember to polish the edges to ensure they are rounded and soft to the touch. +Now that you have your shape, you can start polish it. Make sure you start with the thickest grain and end with the finer grain. The thinner it is, the smoother and more transparent the surface will become. Dont forget to do polish the edges as well so that they are rounded and soft to the touch ![IMG_3166.jpg](./IMG_3166.jpg) @@ -56,7 +56,10 @@ Begin polishing your shape by starting with the coarsest grain and finishing wit ### Step 4: Finishes step -Your pebble is now smooth, nearly transparent, and shining. For the final step, polish it with cotton using patinas for enhanced shine and clarity. The earrings (or necklace or key ring) are nearly ready. Simply drill small holes for attaching accessories using a screwdriver with a small metal bit. +Ok now you have your little pebble smooth to the touch and almost transparent and shining. The last step is to polish it with cotton, so for that you will have to use patinas on your cotton. it will give you a great shining and a perfect transparency. +You have now your earrings (or necklace or key ring) ends! +All you have to do next is make small holes in it to pass your accessories, I use a screwdriver with a small metal bit. + ![IMG_3184.jpg](./IMG_3184.jpg) @@ -69,7 +72,7 @@ Your pebble is now smooth, nearly transparent, and shining. For the final step, ### Step 5: Final result -Here are a few examples of achievable outcomes and their final appearance. +This if a few exemple of what you can do and how it will look when its completely done :-) ![5EC1CA7E-A485-4763-A21C-611041AB8663-BF14D709-0D76-43F2-9E03-13E19C0B39FF.jpg](./5EC1CA7E-A485-4763-A21C-611041AB8663-BF14D709-0D76-43F2-9E03-13E19C0B39FF.jpg) @@ -81,49 +84,4 @@ Here are a few examples of achievable outcomes and their final appearance. ![F9E68BFB-2233-4249-9700-B011DD33B45C-68F8DB73-D9AA-4DDD-AA97-F30A43F5A190.jpg](./F9E68BFB-2233-4249-9700-B011DD33B45C-68F8DB73-D9AA-4DDD-AA97-F30A43F5A190.jpg) ## Resources -To create polished PS BEAMS jewelry or key rings, the following tools and materials are required based on the tutorial: - -### Hardware Tools - -- Machine for cutting PS BEAMS into slices or blocks -- Electric polishing machine (for optimal transparency and shaping) -- Screwdriver with small metal bit (for drilling holes) - -### Polishing Materials - -- Polishing grains (coarse to fine grits for smoothing) -- Cotton (final polishing) -- Patinas (to enhance shine and clarity) - -### Additional Accessories - -- Earring hooks, necklace chains, or key ring hardware (for assembly) - -The process involves cutting, shaping with an electric polisher, progressive polishing, and finishing with cotton and patinas. -## References -**Articles** - -- https://www.kernowcraft.com/jewellery-making-tips/texturing-patina-finishing-advice/how-to-get-a-good-finish-on-your-jewellery -- https://www.kernowcraft.com/jewellery-making-tips/texturing-patina-finishing-advice/hand-polishing-with-polishing-papers -- https://www.romanoff.com/blog/what-is-an-electro-polishing-machine/ -- https://www.ganoksin.com/article/success-polishing-platinum/ -- https://www.jewepiter.com/jewelry-polishing/ -- https://www.nationaljeweler.com/articles/6019-video-the-machine-reimagining-diamond-polishing -- https://www.fintek.co.uk/industry/automated-jewellery-finishing/ -- https://www.inovatecmachinery.com/jewelry-polishing-machine/ - -**Books** - -- https://www.cooksongold.com/blog/inspiration/book-review-polishing-and-finishing-for-jewellers-and-silversmiths/ - -**Papers** - -- https://ijcrt.org/papers/IJCRT_186038.pdf -- http://www.loft.optics.arizona.edu/documents/journal_articles/Burge%20Proc%20SPIE%204451%20153.pdf -- https://www.spiedigitallibrary.org/journals/optical-engineering/volume-63/issue-10/100901/Application-and-development-of-bonnet-polishing-technology/10.1117/1.OE.63.10.100901.full - -**YouTube** - -- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Sl60R-jI68 -- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CaoN6m-4Yy8 -- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yq2XGIFFFck \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/make-beam-jewelry--key-rings/config.json b/howtos/make-beam-jewelry--key-rings/config.json index bd3bff848..8586231fa 100644 --- a/howtos/make-beam-jewelry--key-rings/config.json +++ b/howtos/make-beam-jewelry--key-rings/config.json @@ -56,7 +56,7 @@ } ], "title": "Cut the beames", - "text": "Begin by cutting the beams into slices or small blocks. Slices are ideal for earrings or necklaces, while blocks are suitable for key rings. Cut slices slightly thicker than the intended final thickness, as polishing will thin them." + "text": "The first step is to cut the beams, you can cut slices or little blocks as you want. Slices are better for earrings or necklaces and little blocks are better for key ring. Be sure to cut a slice a little thicker than the desired final thickness because when you polish it will become thinner. " }, { "images": [ @@ -98,11 +98,11 @@ } ], "_animationKey": "unique2", - "text": "Step 2 involves sculpting the slice to achieve the desired shape. Use an electric polishing machine or any preferred method. I will shape it into a round form for making earrings.", + "text": "Step 2 will be to sculpt the slice to obtain the desired shape. You can sculpt it with an electric polishing machine or with different idea, it is up to you :-) I will sculpt it in a round shape to do earrings. ", "title": "Sculpt the slice" }, { - "text": "Begin polishing your shape by starting with the coarsest grain and finishing with the finest grain. The thinner the grain, the smoother and more transparent the surface will be. Remember to polish the edges to ensure they are rounded and soft to the touch.", + "text": "Now that you have your shape, you can start polish it. Make sure you start with the thickest grain and end with the finer grain. The thinner it is, the smoother and more transparent the surface will become. Dont forget to do polish the edges as well so that they are rounded and soft to the touch ", "title": "Polishing step", "images": [ { @@ -183,7 +183,7 @@ "alt": "IMG_3199.jpg" } ], - "text": "Your pebble is now smooth, nearly transparent, and shining. For the final step, polish it with cotton using patinas for enhanced shine and clarity. The earrings (or necklace or key ring) are nearly ready. Simply drill small holes for attaching accessories using a screwdriver with a small metal bit.", + "text": "Ok now you have your little pebble smooth to the touch and almost transparent and shining. The last step is to polish it with cotton, so for that you will have to use patinas on your cotton. it will give you a great shining and a perfect transparency. \nYou have now your earrings (or necklace or key ring) ends!\nAll you have to do next is make small holes in it to pass your accessories, I use a screwdriver with a small metal bit. \n", "title": "Finishes step", "_animationKey": "uniquexo0ge" }, @@ -228,7 +228,7 @@ } ], "_animationKey": "uniquenzh9c", - "text": "Here are a few examples of achievable outcomes and their final appearance." + "text": "This if a few exemple of what you can do and how it will look when its completely done :-)" } ], "difficulty_level": "Easy", @@ -264,7 +264,7 @@ "_id": "WZbV3iGK3TwV6n62WbJC", "label": "Products" }, - "description": "This guide explains the process of polishing a piece of PS BEAMS into a shiny piece of jewelry or key ring. You will need a machine to cut slices of the beams and various polishing grains. An electric polishing machine is recommended for optimal transparency and shine.", + "description": "This how to explain the simple process of polishing a piece of PS BEAMS to a shining and beautiful jewelry or key ring! You will need for this a machine to cut slice of the beames and then different polishing grains. It is better to have an electric polishing machine.. you will get better result with the transparency and the shine :-)", "creatorCountry": "be", "tags": [ "extrusion", @@ -453,9 +453,5 @@ "urls": [] } }, - "content": "This guide explains the process of polishing a piece of PS BEAMS into a shiny piece of jewelry or key ring. You will need a machine to cut slices of the beams and various polishing grains. An electric polishing machine is recommended for optimal transparency and shine.\n\n\nUser Location: Brussels, Belgium\n\nBegin by cutting the beams into slices or small blocks. Slices are ideal for earrings or necklaces, while blocks are suitable for key rings. Cut slices slightly thicker than the intended final thickness, as polishing will thin them.\n\nStep 2 involves sculpting the slice to achieve the desired shape. Use an electric polishing machine or any preferred method. I will shape it into a round form for making earrings.\n\nBegin polishing your shape by starting with the coarsest grain and finishing with the finest grain. The thinner the grain, the smoother and more transparent the surface will be. Remember to polish the edges to ensure they are rounded and soft to the touch.\n\nYour pebble is now smooth, nearly transparent, and shining. For the final step, polish it with cotton using patinas for enhanced shine and clarity. The earrings (or necklace or key ring) are nearly ready. Simply drill small holes for attaching accessories using a screwdriver with a small metal bit.\n\nHere are a few examples of achievable outcomes and their final appearance.", - "keywords": "polishing PS BEAMS, jewelry making, electric polishing machine, polishing grains, Brussels jewelry, PS BEAMS slices, transparent jewelry, sculpting jewelry, shiny key rings, jewelry accessories", - "resources": "To create polished PS BEAMS jewelry or key rings, the following tools and materials are required based on the tutorial:\n\n### Hardware Tools\n\n- Machine for cutting PS BEAMS into slices or blocks\n- Electric polishing machine (for optimal transparency and shaping)\n- Screwdriver with small metal bit (for drilling holes)\n\n### Polishing Materials\n\n- Polishing grains (coarse to fine grits for smoothing)\n- Cotton (final polishing)\n- Patinas (to enhance shine and clarity)\n\n### Additional Accessories\n\n- Earring hooks, necklace chains, or key ring hardware (for assembly)\n\nThe process involves cutting, shaping with an electric polisher, progressive polishing, and finishing with cotton and patinas.", - "references": "**Articles**\n\n- https://www.kernowcraft.com/jewellery-making-tips/texturing-patina-finishing-advice/how-to-get-a-good-finish-on-your-jewellery\n- https://www.kernowcraft.com/jewellery-making-tips/texturing-patina-finishing-advice/hand-polishing-with-polishing-papers\n- https://www.romanoff.com/blog/what-is-an-electro-polishing-machine/\n- https://www.ganoksin.com/article/success-polishing-platinum/\n- https://www.jewepiter.com/jewelry-polishing/\n- https://www.nationaljeweler.com/articles/6019-video-the-machine-reimagining-diamond-polishing\n- https://www.fintek.co.uk/industry/automated-jewellery-finishing/\n- https://www.inovatecmachinery.com/jewelry-polishing-machine/\n\n**Books**\n\n- https://www.cooksongold.com/blog/inspiration/book-review-polishing-and-finishing-for-jewellers-and-silversmiths/\n\n**Papers**\n\n- https://ijcrt.org/papers/IJCRT_186038.pdf\n- http://www.loft.optics.arizona.edu/documents/journal_articles/Burge%20Proc%20SPIE%204451%20153.pdf\n- https://www.spiedigitallibrary.org/journals/optical-engineering/volume-63/issue-10/100901/Application-and-development-of-bonnet-polishing-technology/10.1117/1.OE.63.10.100901.full\n\n**YouTube**\n\n- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Sl60R-jI68\n- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CaoN6m-4Yy8\n- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yq2XGIFFFck", - "brief": "Polish PS BEAMS into jewelry or key rings using a cutting machine and grains. Achieve transparency and shine with an electric polisher for stunning results." + "content": "This how to explain the simple process of polishing a piece of PS BEAMS to a shining and beautiful jewelry or key ring! You will need for this a machine to cut slice of the beames and then different polishing grains. It is better to have an electric polishing machine.. you will get better result with the transparency and the shine :-)\n\n\nUser Location: Brussels, Belgium\n\nThe first step is to cut the beams, you can cut slices or little blocks as you want. Slices are better for earrings or necklaces and little blocks are better for key ring. Be sure to cut a slice a little thicker than the desired final thickness because when you polish it will become thinner. \n\nStep 2 will be to sculpt the slice to obtain the desired shape. You can sculpt it with an electric polishing machine or with different idea, it is up to you :-) I will sculpt it in a round shape to do earrings. \n\nNow that you have your shape, you can start polish it. Make sure you start with the thickest grain and end with the finer grain. The thinner it is, the smoother and more transparent the surface will become. Dont forget to do polish the edges as well so that they are rounded and soft to the touch \n\nOk now you have your little pebble smooth to the touch and almost transparent and shining. The last step is to polish it with cotton, so for that you will have to use patinas on your cotton. it will give you a great shining and a perfect transparency. \nYou have now your earrings (or necklace or key ring) ends!\nAll you have to do next is make small holes in it to pass your accessories, I use a screwdriver with a small metal bit. \n\n\nThis if a few exemple of what you can do and how it will look when its completely done :-)" } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/make-blueprints-in-freecad/README.md b/howtos/make-blueprints-in-freecad/README.md index 5a6f14989..07c051acd 100644 --- a/howtos/make-blueprints-in-freecad/README.md +++ b/howtos/make-blueprints-in-freecad/README.md @@ -1,24 +1,24 @@ --- title: Make Blueprints in FreeCAD slug: make-blueprints-in-freecad -description: Creating blueprints is essential for effectively communicating ideas to builders and manufacturers, whether you're involved in mold-making, machine-building, or other projects. FreeCAD, available on all platforms, is a versatile open-source software offering tools for 3D modeling and blueprint creation. This guide will instruct you on using FreeCAD to develop your own blueprints. +description: Whether you're making moulds, building machines or other work making Blueprints is a key tool to communicate your ideas to builders, colleagues and manufacturers. FreeCAD is an amazing bit of free open source software to make 3d models and much more that is available on all platforms. It has a Blueprint feature built in and this How-Tt will show you how to use it to make Blueprints of your own! tags: ["product","other machine","research","mould"] category: Guides difficulty: Easy time: < 1 week -keywords: FreeCAD, blueprint creation, 3D modeling software, open-source design, TechDraw workspace, blueprint exporting, SVG DXF PDF formats, open source projects, FreeCAD guide, blueprint customization +keywords: location: London, United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland (the) --- # Make Blueprints in FreeCAD ![Make Blueprints in FreeCAD](Howto-blueprints.png) -Creating blueprints is essential for effectively communicating ideas to builders and manufacturers, whether you're involved in mold-making, machine-building, or other projects. FreeCAD, available on all platforms, is a versatile open-source software offering tools for 3D modeling and blueprint creation. This guide will instruct you on using FreeCAD to develop your own blueprints. +Whether you're making moulds, building machines or other work making Blueprints is a key tool to communicate your ideas to builders, colleagues and manufacturers. FreeCAD is an amazing bit of free open source software to make 3d models and much more that is available on all platforms. It has a Blueprint feature built in and this How-Tt will show you how to use it to make Blueprints of your own! User Location: London, United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland (the) ## Steps ### Step 1: Download FreeCAD -- Visit [FreeCAD Download Page](https://www.freecadweb.org/downloads.php) and choose the version for your operating system. -- Adhere to the installation guide instructions. +-Go to freecadweb.org: freecadweb.org/downloads.php and select the distribution you need for your operating system +-Follow the instructions for the installation guide ![0_Freecad.png](./0_Freecad.png) @@ -28,9 +28,9 @@ User Location: London, United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland (the ### Step 2: Import 3D Model -- You may use the provided model or design your own in FreeCAD. -- Open a new document by selecting the new document option from the menu. -- Go to File > Import and choose the desired file. +-We took this model from the starter kit but you can also use a part that you have designed yourself in FreeCAD +-Create a new empty document by clicking the new document button in the menu +-Click File > Import then select the file you wish to use ![2_New_Document.png](./2_New_Document.png) @@ -43,8 +43,9 @@ User Location: London, United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland (the ### Step 3: Select the TechDraw Workspace --FreeCAD offers multiple workspaces, each with distinct functions. --Select the TechDraw workspace from the dropdown menu at the top of the application. +-FreeCAD has various workspaces which has different buttons and are used for different use cases +-The one we need is the TechDraw workspace as it is used for create +-All you need to to do is select it from the dropdown at the top of the application ![3_Workspace_Dropdown.png](./3_Workspace_Dropdown.png) @@ -54,7 +55,10 @@ User Location: London, United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland (the ### Step 4: Generate a blank template -FreeCAD offers multiple blueprint sizes and standards. Select one by clicking the folder icon in the TechDraw workspace or opt for the default using the "Insert new default Page" button. Users can also create custom designs in SVG format to suit specific needs. +-FreeCAD already comes prepared with various Blueprint sizes and standards +-You can select it by clicking the folder icon in the TechDraw workspace and select the type +-Or you can select the default one by clicking the "Insert new default Page" button in the TechDraw workspace +-You can also make your own as it takes an SVG format so you can adapt it to your needs ![4_Import_Template.png](./4_Import_Template.png) @@ -64,14 +68,14 @@ FreeCAD offers multiple blueprint sizes and standards. Select one by clicking th ### Step 5: Import perspective view -- Select the item you wish to create a blueprint of by left-clicking it. -- Hold CTRL and click on the page in the side menu. -- Click the "Insert Projection View" button. -- Open the page to view your drawing. -- Adjust rotation, scaling, and visibility from the side menu. -- Confirm your choice by clicking "OK" in the task menu. -- If it does not update, click the refresh button in the top menu. -- This method ensures that the blueprint and dimensions will update with changes to the base model. +-Select the item you wish to do a blueprint of in the view by left clicking the item +-Then holding CTRL & clicking on the page in the side menu +-Click on the "Insert Projection View" button +-Open the Page and you will see the drawing in the page by +-You can adjust the rotation, scaling & which views are visible from the side menu +-Click "OK" in the task menu to confirm your choice +-If it's not updating click the refresh button in the top menu +-The good thing about doing it this was is that the blueprint and any dimensions you add should update if you update the base model ![5_Item_Selection.png](./5_Item_Selection.png) @@ -84,10 +88,10 @@ FreeCAD offers multiple blueprint sizes and standards. Select one by clicking th ### Step 6: Add Linear Dimensions -- Select two points by holding CTRL and clicking on the desired points. -- Click the horizontal or vertical dimension buttons and position the dimension as needed. -- Ensure the dimension is legible. -- Repeat until all necessary information is displayed. +-Select two points by holding CTRL and clicking on the two points you need +-Click the horizontal or vertical dimension buttons & adjust location of the dimension to your needs +-Adjust the location so the dimension is legible +-Repeat till all relevant information is present ![6_Point_Selection.png](./6_Point_Selection.png) @@ -100,10 +104,10 @@ FreeCAD offers multiple blueprint sizes and standards. Select one by clicking th ### Step 7: Add Diameter Dimensions -- Select the circle to add a diameter -- Click the Diameter dimension button -- Adjust for legibility -- Repeat for all circles in the drawing +-Select the circle you wish to add a diameter to +-Click on the Diameter dimension button +-Adjust the location so the dimension is legible +-Repeat for all circles in your drawing ![7_Diameter_Selection.png](./7_Diameter_Selection.png) @@ -116,9 +120,9 @@ FreeCAD offers multiple blueprint sizes and standards. Select one by clicking th ### Step 8: Add Angle Dimensions -- Click the "Insert Annotation" button in the TechDraw workspace. -- Adjust text and size in the left panel. -- View names are added as frame titles, which are not visible on export. +-Click the "Insert Annotation" button in the TechDraw workspace +-You can adjust the text & text size in the left hand panel +-We have added the names of each of the views as the frame titles are not visible on export ![8_Angle_Selection.png](./8_Angle_Selection.png) @@ -131,9 +135,10 @@ FreeCAD offers multiple blueprint sizes and standards. Select one by clicking th ### Step 9: Add Annotations -- Click the "Insert Annotation" button in the TechDraw workspace. -- Adjust the text and text size in the left-hand panel. -- View names have been added as frame titles for better visibility upon export. +-Click the "Insert Annotation" button in the TechDraw workspace +-You can adjust the text & text size in the left hand panel +-We have added the names of each of the views as the frame titles are not visible on export + ![9_Insert_Annotation.png](./9_Insert_Annotation.png) @@ -146,17 +151,18 @@ FreeCAD offers multiple blueprint sizes and standards. Select one by clicking th ### Step 10: Add Blueprint Details -- Blueprint sections include detailed explanations. -- Editable areas are marked with green boxes. -- Click a green box to open a modal window for text entry. +-There is always a section in blueprints explaining the details of the drawing +-You can see by the green boxes what is editable in the template +-Click the green box within each section and it will open a modal window for you to fill in the text + +Don't forget to add +-Who made it +-When it was made +-What the dimensions of the notations are +-What the scale of the view is +-What version number it is +-If there are multiple sheets explaining the file -Ensure to include: -- Creator's name -- Date of creation -- Notation dimensions -- View scale -- Version number -- Presence of multiple sheets in the file ![10_Blueprint_Details.png](./10_Blueprint_Details.png) @@ -169,10 +175,12 @@ Ensure to include: ### Step 11: Cleanup -- Remove the default text from the open source template. -- Eliminate the details table on the right using a blank white .png file as a mask. -- Select the "Insert Bitmap from file" button and use the provided masks. - - Position and size it appropriately by adjusting parameters in the left-hand panel. +-As this is open source work we will need to remove the default text from the template +-While we're at it we can also remove the details table on the right hand side +-We done this by using a blank white .png file and using it as a mask +-Select the "Insert Bitmap from file" button and use the masks provided in this tutorial + -You'll need to put it in the right position & adjust for the size + -This is done by adjusting the parameters after clicking it in the left hand panel ![11_Insert_bitmap.png](./11_Insert_bitmap.png) @@ -185,18 +193,18 @@ Ensure to include: ### Step 12: Add the license -- Complete the starter kit license, noting the modifications made to this blueprint. -- We utilized an additional annotation, as previously demonstrated. +-We will fill in the license of the starter kit and we need to note what was done for this blueprint +-We added it by using another annotation as shown before ![12_License.png](./12_License.png) ### Step 13: Export --Export your files in formats like SVG, DXF, or PDF. --SVG and DXF formats have dedicated buttons in the top menu. --To export as PDF, right-click anywhere on the page and select "Export PDF." --Save the file in an easily accessible location. +-There are many file formats that you can export to such as SVG, DXF & PDF +-SVG & DXF formats have their own buttons that you can click in the top menu +-If you wish to export to PDF just right click anywhere on the page and click "Export PDF" +-Save it somewhere you will find it later ![13_Export.png](./13_Export.png) @@ -209,68 +217,31 @@ Ensure to include: ### Step 14: Spread the Love -- Open source requires sharing the source and files. -- Upload to platforms like GitHub or GitLab. -- Share your work on our social media. +-Open source is not Open source if you don't share the source & files +-You can put it on GitHub or other places like GitLab as well +-Feel free to share your work with us on our social media -At Darigov Research, we focus on open source hardware, software, and education to address global issues locally. +At Darigov Research we specialise in open source hardware, software and education to help people tackle global issues in their local community. -Support us through donations or Patreon: +If you wish to support us in the work that we do consider donating or joining us on Patreon -[Donate](https://www.darigovresearch.com/donate) -[Patreon](https://www.patreon.com/darigovresearch) +Donate - darigovresearch.com: darigovresearch.com/donate +Patreon - patreon.com: patreon.com/darigovresearch -[Website](https://www.darigovresearch.com/) -[YouTube Channel](https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCb34hWA6u2Lif92aljhV4HA) -Follow us on Twitter, GitHub, Instagram: @darigovresearch +Website - darigovresearch.com: darigovresearch.com +Youtube Channel – youtube.com: youtube.com/channel/UCb34hWA6u2Lif92aljhV4HA +Twitter, GitHub, Instagram - @​​​​darigovresearch ### Step 15: Get Started -We have extensive experience building machines since V2. If you are interested in purchasing a machine or inquiring about our services for research and development purposes, please view our products or contact us directly. +We've been building [filtered] machines since V2 of the machines so we're very passionate about the great work that has been done so far and where this community will grow to! + +If you're interested in purchasing a machine or interested in inquiring about our services for any research and development purposes do take a look at the products we are selling on the Bazar or message us directly! + + ![15_Get_Started.png](./15_Get_Started.png) ## Resources -Here's the extracted toolset from the tutorial: - -### Required Software - -- [FreeCAD](https://www.freecadweb.org/downloads.php) - Open-source 3D CAD software for blueprint creation -- Image editing tool - For creating/editing PNG masking files[1][2] -- Vector graphics editor - For custom SVG template designs[1][2] - -### Required Hardware - -- Windows/macOS/Linux computer - Minimum specs to run FreeCAD[1][2] -- Mouse - Recommended for precise blueprint navigation[1][2] - -### Export Formats - -- SVG - Vector format with dedicated export button[1][2] -- DXF - CAD exchange format[1][2] -- PDF - Printable format via right-click export[1][2] - -### Collaboration Tools - -- [GitHub](https://github.com/) - Open-source file hosting[1][2] -- [GitLab](https://gitlab.com/) - Alternative code repository[1][2] - -### Support Resources - -- Masking templates - Pre-made PNG files for blueprint framing[1][2] -- TechDraw workspace - Built-in FreeCAD module for technical drawings[1][2] -## References -## References - -### Opensource Designs - -- [FreeCAD Download Page](https://www.freecadweb.org/downloads.php) - -### Websites - -- [Darigov Research](https://www.darigovresearch.com/) - -### YouTube - -- [Darigov Research YouTube Channel](https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCb34hWA6u2Lif92aljhV4HA) \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/make-blueprints-in-freecad/config.json b/howtos/make-blueprints-in-freecad/config.json index f851d9d76..0ea69e68b 100644 --- a/howtos/make-blueprints-in-freecad/config.json +++ b/howtos/make-blueprints-in-freecad/config.json @@ -55,10 +55,10 @@ ], "_animationKey": "unique1", "title": "Download FreeCAD", - "text": "- Visit [FreeCAD Download Page](https://www.freecadweb.org/downloads.php) and choose the version for your operating system.\n- Adhere to the installation guide instructions." + "text": "-Go to freecadweb.org: freecadweb.org/downloads.php and select the distribution you need for your operating system\n-Follow the instructions for the installation guide" }, { - "text": "- You may use the provided model or design your own in FreeCAD.\n- Open a new document by selecting the new document option from the menu.\n- Go to File > Import and choose the desired file.", + "text": "-We took this model from the starter kit but you can also use a part that you have designed yourself in FreeCAD\n-Create a new empty document by clicking the new document button in the menu\n-Click File > Import then select the file you wish to use", "images": [ { "updated": "2020-07-27T23:30:10.670Z", @@ -128,7 +128,7 @@ } ], "_animationKey": "unique3", - "text": "-FreeCAD offers multiple workspaces, each with distinct functions. \n-Select the TechDraw workspace from the dropdown menu at the top of the application.", + "text": "-FreeCAD has various workspaces which has different buttons and are used for different use cases\n-The one we need is the TechDraw workspace as it is used for create\n-All you need to to do is select it from the dropdown at the top of the application", "title": "Select the TechDraw Workspace" }, { @@ -159,7 +159,7 @@ "alt": "4_Default_Template.png" } ], - "text": "FreeCAD offers multiple blueprint sizes and standards. Select one by clicking the folder icon in the TechDraw workspace or opt for the default using the \"Insert new default Page\" button. Users can also create custom designs in SVG format to suit specific needs.", + "text": "-FreeCAD already comes prepared with various Blueprint sizes and standards\n-You can select it by clicking the folder icon in the TechDraw workspace and select the type\n-Or you can select the default one by clicking the \"Insert new default Page\" button in the TechDraw workspace\n-You can also make your own as it takes an SVG format so you can adapt it to your needs", "_animationKey": "unique0v6h7q" }, { @@ -203,11 +203,11 @@ } ], "title": "Import perspective view", - "text": "- Select the item you wish to create a blueprint of by left-clicking it.\n- Hold CTRL and click on the page in the side menu.\n- Click the \"Insert Projection View\" button.\n- Open the page to view your drawing.\n- Adjust rotation, scaling, and visibility from the side menu.\n- Confirm your choice by clicking \"OK\" in the task menu.\n- If it does not update, click the refresh button in the top menu.\n- This method ensures that the blueprint and dimensions will update with changes to the base model." + "text": "-Select the item you wish to do a blueprint of in the view by left clicking the item\n-Then holding CTRL & clicking on the page in the side menu\n-Click on the \"Insert Projection View\" button\n-Open the Page and you will see the drawing in the page by \n-You can adjust the rotation, scaling & which views are visible from the side menu\n-Click \"OK\" in the task menu to confirm your choice\n-If it's not updating click the refresh button in the top menu\n-The good thing about doing it this was is that the blueprint and any dimensions you add should update if you update the base model" }, { "title": "Add Linear Dimensions", - "text": "- Select two points by holding CTRL and clicking on the desired points.\n- Click the horizontal or vertical dimension buttons and position the dimension as needed.\n- Ensure the dimension is legible.\n- Repeat until all necessary information is displayed.", + "text": "-Select two points by holding CTRL and clicking on the two points you need\n-Click the horizontal or vertical dimension buttons & adjust location of the dimension to your needs \n-Adjust the location so the dimension is legible\n-Repeat till all relevant information is present", "images": [ { "downloadUrl": "https://firebasestorage.googleapis.com/v0/b/onearmyworld.appspot.com/o/uploads%2Fhowtos%2FZr8cdQOHjv9YoaQnBAJO%2F6_Point_Selection.png?alt=media&token=377df22c-e335-4008-99da-fcf5e5a7eb5b", @@ -251,7 +251,7 @@ { "title": "Add Diameter Dimensions", "_animationKey": "uniquef1rq7d", - "text": "- Select the circle to add a diameter\n- Click the Diameter dimension button\n- Adjust for legibility\n- Repeat for all circles in the drawing", + "text": "-Select the circle you wish to add a diameter to\n-Click on the Diameter dimension button\n-Adjust the location so the dimension is legible\n-Repeat for all circles in your drawing", "images": [ { "downloadUrl": "https://firebasestorage.googleapis.com/v0/b/onearmyworld.appspot.com/o/uploads%2Fhowtos%2FZr8cdQOHjv9YoaQnBAJO%2F7_Diameter_Selection.png?alt=media&token=b04f0066-4ed2-44c8-93d6-1f177dbfd4fb", @@ -332,10 +332,10 @@ ], "title": "Add Angle Dimensions", "_animationKey": "unique4abvl", - "text": "- Click the \"Insert Annotation\" button in the TechDraw workspace.\n- Adjust text and size in the left panel.\n- View names are added as frame titles, which are not visible on export." + "text": "-Click the \"Insert Annotation\" button in the TechDraw workspace\n-You can adjust the text & text size in the left hand panel\n-We have added the names of each of the views as the frame titles are not visible on export" }, { - "text": "- Click the \"Insert Annotation\" button in the TechDraw workspace.\n- Adjust the text and text size in the left-hand panel.\n- View names have been added as frame titles for better visibility upon export.", + "text": "-Click the \"Insert Annotation\" button in the TechDraw workspace\n-You can adjust the text & text size in the left hand panel\n-We have added the names of each of the views as the frame titles are not visible on export\n", "images": [ { "contentType": "image/jpeg", @@ -379,7 +379,7 @@ }, { "_animationKey": "uniqueowpq6", - "text": "- Blueprint sections include detailed explanations.\n- Editable areas are marked with green boxes.\n- Click a green box to open a modal window for text entry.\n\nEnsure to include:\n- Creator's name\n- Date of creation\n- Notation dimensions\n- View scale\n- Version number\n- Presence of multiple sheets in the file", + "text": "-There is always a section in blueprints explaining the details of the drawing\n-You can see by the green boxes what is editable in the template\n-Click the green box within each section and it will open a modal window for you to fill in the text\n\nDon't forget to add\n-Who made it\n-When it was made\n-What the dimensions of the notations are\n-What the scale of the view is\n-What version number it is\n-If there are multiple sheets explaining the file\n", "title": "Add Blueprint Details", "images": [ { @@ -461,10 +461,10 @@ "alt": "11_All_masks.png" } ], - "text": "- Remove the default text from the open source template.\n- Eliminate the details table on the right using a blank white .png file as a mask.\n- Select the \"Insert Bitmap from file\" button and use the provided masks.\n - Position and size it appropriately by adjusting parameters in the left-hand panel." + "text": "-As this is open source work we will need to remove the default text from the template\n-While we're at it we can also remove the details table on the right hand side\n-We done this by using a blank white .png file and using it as a mask\n-Select the \"Insert Bitmap from file\" button and use the masks provided in this tutorial\n\t-You'll need to put it in the right position & adjust for the size\n\t-This is done by adjusting the parameters after clicking it in the left hand panel" }, { - "text": "- Complete the starter kit license, noting the modifications made to this blueprint.\n- We utilized an additional annotation, as previously demonstrated.", + "text": "-We will fill in the license of the starter kit and we need to note what was done for this blueprint\n-We added it by using another annotation as shown before", "images": [ { "downloadUrl": "https://firebasestorage.googleapis.com/v0/b/onearmyworld.appspot.com/o/uploads%2Fhowtos%2FZr8cdQOHjv9YoaQnBAJO%2F12_License.png?alt=media&token=9443ed0f-282f-485e-bdd8-eaffc7bbc1b3", @@ -483,7 +483,7 @@ "_animationKey": "uniquel12ent" }, { - "text": "-Export your files in formats like SVG, DXF, or PDF.\n-SVG and DXF formats have dedicated buttons in the top menu.\n-To export as PDF, right-click anywhere on the page and select \"Export PDF.\"\n-Save the file in an easily accessible location.", + "text": "-There are many file formats that you can export to such as SVG, DXF & PDF\n-SVG & DXF formats have their own buttons that you can click in the top menu\n-If you wish to export to PDF just right click anywhere on the page and click \"Export PDF\"\n-Save it somewhere you will find it later", "images": [ { "type": "image/jpeg", @@ -528,7 +528,7 @@ { "images": [], "_animationKey": "uniqueqmw4ep", - "text": "- Open source requires sharing the source and files.\n- Upload to platforms like GitHub or GitLab.\n- Share your work on our social media.\n\nAt Darigov Research, we focus on open source hardware, software, and education to address global issues locally.\n\nSupport us through donations or Patreon:\n\n[Donate](https://www.darigovresearch.com/donate) \n[Patreon](https://www.patreon.com/darigovresearch)\n\n[Website](https://www.darigovresearch.com/) \n[YouTube Channel](https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCb34hWA6u2Lif92aljhV4HA) \nFollow us on Twitter, GitHub, Instagram: @darigovresearch", + "text": "-Open source is not Open source if you don't share the source & files\n-You can put it on GitHub or other places like GitLab as well\n-Feel free to share your work with us on our social media \n\nAt Darigov Research we specialise in open source hardware, software and education to help people tackle global issues in their local community.\n\nIf you wish to support us in the work that we do consider donating or joining us on Patreon\n\nDonate - darigovresearch.com: darigovresearch.com/donate \nPatreon - patreon.com: patreon.com/darigovresearch\n\nWebsite - darigovresearch.com: darigovresearch.com \nYoutube Channel – youtube.com: youtube.com/channel/UCb34hWA6u2Lif92aljhV4HA\nTwitter, GitHub, Instagram - @​​​​darigovresearch", "videoUrl": "https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UAx3Xh6ZgVg", "title": "Spread the Love" }, @@ -549,12 +549,12 @@ "alt": "15_Get_Started.png" } ], - "text": "We have extensive experience building machines since V2. If you are interested in purchasing a machine or inquiring about our services for research and development purposes, please view our products or contact us directly." + "text": "We've been building [filtered] machines since V2 of the machines so we're very passionate about the great work that has been done so far and where this community will grow to!\n\nIf you're interested in purchasing a machine or interested in inquiring about our services for any research and development purposes do take a look at the products we are selling on the Bazar or message us directly!\n\n" } ], "comments": [], "total_views": 662, - "description": "Creating blueprints is essential for effectively communicating ideas to builders and manufacturers, whether you're involved in mold-making, machine-building, or other projects. FreeCAD, available on all platforms, is a versatile open-source software offering tools for 3D modeling and blueprint creation. This guide will instruct you on using FreeCAD to develop your own blueprints.", + "description": "Whether you're making moulds, building machines or other work making Blueprints is a key tool to communicate your ideas to builders, colleagues and manufacturers. FreeCAD is an amazing bit of free open source software to make 3d models and much more that is available on all platforms. It has a Blueprint feature built in and this How-Tt will show you how to use it to make Blueprints of your own!", "id": "Zr8cdQOHjv9YoaQnBAJO", "_deleted": false, "_createdBy": "darigov-research", @@ -756,9 +756,5 @@ "urls": [] } }, - "content": "Creating blueprints is essential for effectively communicating ideas to builders and manufacturers, whether you're involved in mold-making, machine-building, or other projects. FreeCAD, available on all platforms, is a versatile open-source software offering tools for 3D modeling and blueprint creation. This guide will instruct you on using FreeCAD to develop your own blueprints.\n\n\nUser Location: London, United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland (the)\n\n- Visit [FreeCAD Download Page](https://www.freecadweb.org/downloads.php) and choose the version for your operating system.\n- Adhere to the installation guide instructions.\n\n- You may use the provided model or design your own in FreeCAD.\n- Open a new document by selecting the new document option from the menu.\n- Go to File > Import and choose the desired file.\n\n-FreeCAD offers multiple workspaces, each with distinct functions. \n-Select the TechDraw workspace from the dropdown menu at the top of the application.\n\nFreeCAD offers multiple blueprint sizes and standards. Select one by clicking the folder icon in the TechDraw workspace or opt for the default using the \"Insert new default Page\" button. Users can also create custom designs in SVG format to suit specific needs.\n\n- Select the item you wish to create a blueprint of by left-clicking it.\n- Hold CTRL and click on the page in the side menu.\n- Click the \"Insert Projection View\" button.\n- Open the page to view your drawing.\n- Adjust rotation, scaling, and visibility from the side menu.\n- Confirm your choice by clicking \"OK\" in the task menu.\n- If it does not update, click the refresh button in the top menu.\n- This method ensures that the blueprint and dimensions will update with changes to the base model.\n\n- Select two points by holding CTRL and clicking on the desired points.\n- Click the horizontal or vertical dimension buttons and position the dimension as needed.\n- Ensure the dimension is legible.\n- Repeat until all necessary information is displayed.\n\n- Select the circle to add a diameter\n- Click the Diameter dimension button\n- Adjust for legibility\n- Repeat for all circles in the drawing\n\n- Click the \"Insert Annotation\" button in the TechDraw workspace.\n- Adjust text and size in the left panel.\n- View names are added as frame titles, which are not visible on export.\n\n- Click the \"Insert Annotation\" button in the TechDraw workspace.\n- Adjust the text and text size in the left-hand panel.\n- View names have been added as frame titles for better visibility upon export.\n\n- Blueprint sections include detailed explanations.\n- Editable areas are marked with green boxes.\n- Click a green box to open a modal window for text entry.\n\nEnsure to include:\n- Creator's name\n- Date of creation\n- Notation dimensions\n- View scale\n- Version number\n- Presence of multiple sheets in the file\n\n- Remove the default text from the open source template.\n- Eliminate the details table on the right using a blank white .png file as a mask.\n- Select the \"Insert Bitmap from file\" button and use the provided masks.\n - Position and size it appropriately by adjusting parameters in the left-hand panel.\n\n- Complete the starter kit license, noting the modifications made to this blueprint.\n- We utilized an additional annotation, as previously demonstrated.\n\n-Export your files in formats like SVG, DXF, or PDF.\n-SVG and DXF formats have dedicated buttons in the top menu.\n-To export as PDF, right-click anywhere on the page and select \"Export PDF.\"\n-Save the file in an easily accessible location.\n\n- Open source requires sharing the source and files.\n- Upload to platforms like GitHub or GitLab.\n- Share your work on our social media.\n\nAt Darigov Research, we focus on open source hardware, software, and education to address global issues locally.\n\nSupport us through donations or Patreon:\n\n[Donate](https://www.darigovresearch.com/donate) \n[Patreon](https://www.patreon.com/darigovresearch)\n\n[Website](https://www.darigovresearch.com/) \n[YouTube Channel](https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCb34hWA6u2Lif92aljhV4HA) \nFollow us on Twitter, GitHub, Instagram: @darigovresearch\n\nWe have extensive experience building machines since V2. If you are interested in purchasing a machine or inquiring about our services for research and development purposes, please view our products or contact us directly.", - "keywords": "FreeCAD, blueprint creation, 3D modeling software, open-source design, TechDraw workspace, blueprint exporting, SVG DXF PDF formats, open source projects, FreeCAD guide, blueprint customization", - "resources": "Here's the extracted toolset from the tutorial:\n\n### Required Software\n\n- [FreeCAD](https://www.freecadweb.org/downloads.php) - Open-source 3D CAD software for blueprint creation\n- Image editing tool - For creating/editing PNG masking files[1][2]\n- Vector graphics editor - For custom SVG template designs[1][2]\n\n### Required Hardware\n\n- Windows/macOS/Linux computer - Minimum specs to run FreeCAD[1][2]\n- Mouse - Recommended for precise blueprint navigation[1][2]\n\n### Export Formats\n\n- SVG - Vector format with dedicated export button[1][2]\n- DXF - CAD exchange format[1][2]\n- PDF - Printable format via right-click export[1][2]\n\n### Collaboration Tools\n\n- [GitHub](https://github.com/) - Open-source file hosting[1][2]\n- [GitLab](https://gitlab.com/) - Alternative code repository[1][2]\n\n### Support Resources\n\n- Masking templates - Pre-made PNG files for blueprint framing[1][2]\n- TechDraw workspace - Built-in FreeCAD module for technical drawings[1][2]", - "references": "## References\n\n### Opensource Designs\n\n- [FreeCAD Download Page](https://www.freecadweb.org/downloads.php)\n\n### Websites\n\n- [Darigov Research](https://www.darigovresearch.com/)\n\n### YouTube\n\n- [Darigov Research YouTube Channel](https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCb34hWA6u2Lif92aljhV4HA)", - "brief": "Create professional blueprints using FreeCAD, an open-source 3D modeling tool. Ideal for mold-making, machine-building projects. Download and start designing today!" + "content": "Whether you're making moulds, building machines or other work making Blueprints is a key tool to communicate your ideas to builders, colleagues and manufacturers. FreeCAD is an amazing bit of free open source software to make 3d models and much more that is available on all platforms. It has a Blueprint feature built in and this How-Tt will show you how to use it to make Blueprints of your own!\n\n\nUser Location: London, United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland (the)\n\n-Go to freecadweb.org: freecadweb.org/downloads.php and select the distribution you need for your operating system\n-Follow the instructions for the installation guide\n\n-We took this model from the starter kit but you can also use a part that you have designed yourself in FreeCAD\n-Create a new empty document by clicking the new document button in the menu\n-Click File > Import then select the file you wish to use\n\n-FreeCAD has various workspaces which has different buttons and are used for different use cases\n-The one we need is the TechDraw workspace as it is used for create\n-All you need to to do is select it from the dropdown at the top of the application\n\n-FreeCAD already comes prepared with various Blueprint sizes and standards\n-You can select it by clicking the folder icon in the TechDraw workspace and select the type\n-Or you can select the default one by clicking the \"Insert new default Page\" button in the TechDraw workspace\n-You can also make your own as it takes an SVG format so you can adapt it to your needs\n\n-Select the item you wish to do a blueprint of in the view by left clicking the item\n-Then holding CTRL & clicking on the page in the side menu\n-Click on the \"Insert Projection View\" button\n-Open the Page and you will see the drawing in the page by \n-You can adjust the rotation, scaling & which views are visible from the side menu\n-Click \"OK\" in the task menu to confirm your choice\n-If it's not updating click the refresh button in the top menu\n-The good thing about doing it this was is that the blueprint and any dimensions you add should update if you update the base model\n\n-Select two points by holding CTRL and clicking on the two points you need\n-Click the horizontal or vertical dimension buttons & adjust location of the dimension to your needs \n-Adjust the location so the dimension is legible\n-Repeat till all relevant information is present\n\n-Select the circle you wish to add a diameter to\n-Click on the Diameter dimension button\n-Adjust the location so the dimension is legible\n-Repeat for all circles in your drawing\n\n-Click the \"Insert Annotation\" button in the TechDraw workspace\n-You can adjust the text & text size in the left hand panel\n-We have added the names of each of the views as the frame titles are not visible on export\n\n-Click the \"Insert Annotation\" button in the TechDraw workspace\n-You can adjust the text & text size in the left hand panel\n-We have added the names of each of the views as the frame titles are not visible on export\n\n\n-There is always a section in blueprints explaining the details of the drawing\n-You can see by the green boxes what is editable in the template\n-Click the green box within each section and it will open a modal window for you to fill in the text\n\nDon't forget to add\n-Who made it\n-When it was made\n-What the dimensions of the notations are\n-What the scale of the view is\n-What version number it is\n-If there are multiple sheets explaining the file\n\n\n-As this is open source work we will need to remove the default text from the template\n-While we're at it we can also remove the details table on the right hand side\n-We done this by using a blank white .png file and using it as a mask\n-Select the \"Insert Bitmap from file\" button and use the masks provided in this tutorial\n\t-You'll need to put it in the right position & adjust for the size\n\t-This is done by adjusting the parameters after clicking it in the left hand panel\n\n-We will fill in the license of the starter kit and we need to note what was done for this blueprint\n-We added it by using another annotation as shown before\n\n-There are many file formats that you can export to such as SVG, DXF & PDF\n-SVG & DXF formats have their own buttons that you can click in the top menu\n-If you wish to export to PDF just right click anywhere on the page and click \"Export PDF\"\n-Save it somewhere you will find it later\n\n-Open source is not Open source if you don't share the source & files\n-You can put it on GitHub or other places like GitLab as well\n-Feel free to share your work with us on our social media \n\nAt Darigov Research we specialise in open source hardware, software and education to help people tackle global issues in their local community.\n\nIf you wish to support us in the work that we do consider donating or joining us on Patreon\n\nDonate - darigovresearch.com: darigovresearch.com/donate \nPatreon - patreon.com: patreon.com/darigovresearch\n\nWebsite - darigovresearch.com: darigovresearch.com \nYoutube Channel – youtube.com: youtube.com/channel/UCb34hWA6u2Lif92aljhV4HA\nTwitter, GitHub, Instagram - @​​​​darigovresearch\n\nWe've been building [filtered] machines since V2 of the machines so we're very passionate about the great work that has been done so far and where this community will grow to!\n\nIf you're interested in purchasing a machine or interested in inquiring about our services for any research and development purposes do take a look at the products we are selling on the Bazar or message us directly!\n\n" } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/make-buttons-from-ocean-rope/README.md b/howtos/make-buttons-from-ocean-rope/README.md index bb4aead4e..a3879ed99 100644 --- a/howtos/make-buttons-from-ocean-rope/README.md +++ b/howtos/make-buttons-from-ocean-rope/README.md @@ -1,37 +1,31 @@ --- title: Make buttons from Ocean Rope slug: make-buttons-from-ocean-rope -description: ### Markdown Version +description: As a coastal Precious Plastic workshop it's not a surprise to us that some of our prototyping focuses on plastics collected on Norfolk beach cleans. Ocean rope is a common find for beach cleaners around the 100 miles of Norfolk coastline and was one of our earliest experiments manufacturing from beach finds. -In our coastal workshop, we often prototype using plastics collected from beach cleans along the 100 miles (160 km) of the Norfolk coastline. Ocean rope, frequently found by beach cleaners, was among our first materials for experiments. This rope, typically polypropylene, is non-stretchy, often brittle, and light aqua blue. - -On World Ocean Day, we highlight our commitment to removing ocean plastics and repurposing them. Addressing plastic pollution requires not just recycling but also significant production restrictions. Our efforts are centered on education and advocating for policies that reduce plastic production. +We pick out the rope from local finds that carries the characteristics of polypropylene rope... ropes that aren't stretchy, are often brittle and crunchy to the touch and commonly a light aqua blue. We're sharing this video on World Ocean Day because as a coastal workshop we feel a particular responsibility for removing plastic from the ocean and turn into things that should never be in the sea again. Plastic isn't the solution for future plastic, to tackle future plastic production we need significant curbs on production. Our work focuses on education and recycling existing plastic while campaigning for more robust policy to reduce production at the source. tags: ["product","mould","PP","injection"] category: Products difficulty: Medium time: < 1 hour -keywords: beach cleaning, ocean plastics, plastic pollution, marine conservation, polypropylene rope, Norfolk coastline, recycling ocean waste, plastic repurposing, injection molding, sustainable practices +keywords: location: Great Yarmouth, United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland (the) --- # Make buttons from Ocean Rope ![Make buttons from Ocean Rope](PP_Title_screen_-_Buttons_from_ocean_rope_2-18881c5a566.jpg) -### Markdown Version +As a coastal Precious Plastic workshop it's not a surprise to us that some of our prototyping focuses on plastics collected on Norfolk beach cleans. Ocean rope is a common find for beach cleaners around the 100 miles of Norfolk coastline and was one of our earliest experiments manufacturing from beach finds. -In our coastal workshop, we often prototype using plastics collected from beach cleans along the 100 miles (160 km) of the Norfolk coastline. Ocean rope, frequently found by beach cleaners, was among our first materials for experiments. This rope, typically polypropylene, is non-stretchy, often brittle, and light aqua blue. - -On World Ocean Day, we highlight our commitment to removing ocean plastics and repurposing them. Addressing plastic pollution requires not just recycling but also significant production restrictions. Our efforts are centered on education and advocating for policies that reduce plastic production. +We pick out the rope from local finds that carries the characteristics of polypropylene rope... ropes that aren't stretchy, are often brittle and crunchy to the touch and commonly a light aqua blue. We're sharing this video on World Ocean Day because as a coastal workshop we feel a particular responsibility for removing plastic from the ocean and turn into things that should never be in the sea again. Plastic isn't the solution for future plastic, to tackle future plastic production we need significant curbs on production. Our work focuses on education and recycling existing plastic while campaigning for more robust policy to reduce production at the source. User Location: Great Yarmouth, United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland (the) ## Steps ### Step 1: Source some ocean rope -### Working with Beach Clean Groups for Plastic Collection +A potentially obvious step, but one we thought it was worth mentioning all the same. When we were approached by beach clean groups in Norfolk they were desperate to find somewhere to donate their plastics to avoid them going into landfill or being incinerated. We have worked with Norfolk beach clean groups for over 12 months now and they pick up a lot of rope from the Norfolk coastline every month. -When approached by beach clean groups in Norfolk eager to donate plastics, we collaborated with them over the past year. They regularly collect significant amounts of rope from the Norfolk coastline. +If you're in a coastal location, reach out to any organised groups that you can find. They're likely to welcome the opportunity of having their plastic recycled, because they're generally people who have a very deep love and sense of responsibility for marine conservation and ensuring litter doesn't end up in the wrong place. -If you're in a coastal area, contact local beach clean groups. These groups often value opportunities to recycle plastic due to their commitment to marine conservation. - -For those not near the coast, consider finding beach clean groups elsewhere as a resource, though sourcing local plastics is advisable. +If you're not a coastal [filtered] workshop then it could be worth seeking out beach clean groups in other parts of the country as a source, though we'd be inclined to encourage you to find plastics that are local to you. ![1C26FDA4-673E-462E-B41B-83D880985552-18881cf5fa4.JPG](./1C26FDA4-673E-462E-B41B-83D880985552-18881cf5fa4.JPG) @@ -41,13 +35,11 @@ For those not near the coast, consider finding beach clean groups elsewhere as a ### Step 2: Sort and inspect your rope -### Rope Sorting and Inspection Guide +Sorting and inspecting your rope is an important step ahead of cleaning. At this step you're looking to identify the polypropylene (PP) rope and remove anything like duct tape, zip ties or alike that are attached to the rope and won't be removed by cleaning. -Inspect your rope to identify polypropylene (PP) material and remove any attached items such as duct tape or zip ties. This ensures only desired materials remain for cleaning. +Identifying polypropylene (PP) ocean rope is relatively easy though not a guarantee of a correct material identification. Polypropylene (PP) ropes are clearly plastic, with some characteristic features that when followed we find to provide us with enough rope and up until now has always avoided contamination. We look for ropes that aren't stretchy, are often brittle and crunchy to the touch and commonly a light aqua blue. We've found that ocean rope is also commonly black, or yellow and white, though we find the light blue is easiest to identify. -Identifying PP ocean rope is straightforward, though not foolproof. These ropes typically have a plastic appearance, are non-stretchy, and feel brittle or crunchy. Common colors include light aqua blue, black, yellow, or white, with light blue being the most recognizable. - -Use scissors to remove duct tape or zip ties. General dirt will be addressed in the subsequent cleaning step. +Remove anything like duct tape, zip ties or alike that are attached to the rope using scissors. General dirt will be removed by the cleaning step that comes next. ![image0-18881d43479.jpeg](./image0-18881d43479.jpeg) @@ -57,9 +49,11 @@ Use scissors to remove duct tape or zip ties. General dirt will be addressed in ### Step 3: Clean and dry the rope -Cleaning and drying the rope is simple. Use a laundry bag, washing machine, and an airing cupboard. The washing machine can employ a standard 40°C (104°F) cycle with unscented detergent. +Cleaning and drying the rope is straightforward enough. We use a laundry bag, a washing machine and an airing cupboard. Ideally the washing machine would be part of a circular system that filters the waste water before feeding it back into the machine to avoid microplastics escaping. -For drying, leave the rope in the laundry bag and place it in an airing cupboard overnight or on a sunny windowsill. After a few hours or a night, the rope should be dry. If not, rearrange the rope and leave it for additional time. +We use a regular 40 degree centigrade (104 degrees fahrenheit) with an unfragranced detergent. + +Our approach to drying the plastic again makes use of regular household or workshop features. We tend to leave the rope in the laundry bag and place the bag in either an airing cupboard overnight or on a windowsill on a sunny day. In our experience after an afternoon or a night in one of these spots the rope should feel dry. If not, rearrange the rope so that different pieces are on top and leave it for a further afternoon or evening. ![image0 (1)-18881df51cb.jpeg](./image0_1-18881df51cb.jpeg) @@ -72,9 +66,9 @@ For drying, leave the rope in the laundry bag and place it in an airing cupboard ### Step 4: Shred your rope -Shredding ocean rope differs significantly from shredding hard plastics like DVD cases or soft drink bottle lids. We encountered ropes up to 1.4 inches (36 mm) thick from beach cleanups, necessitating the use of a larger commercial shredder over a smaller one. It is advisable to assess your rope's thickness and your shredder's power before proceeding. +We've found shredding ocean rope to be a completely different experience to shredding a hard plastic like a DVD case or a soft drink bottle lid. Some of the ocean rope we've received from beach cleans has been as thick as 36mm, so we decided to use our bigger commercial shredder rather than our smaller [filtered] shredder. We'd recommend that you review the thickness of the rope you're looking to shred and the power of your shredder and act accordingly. -During our process, we observed that only a minimal amount of shredded rope collected in the bin below the blades. Prolonged shredding might alter this outcome. After a brief shredding period, we retrieved the shredded material from the bin and carefully removed the remaining pieces from the shredder with gloves, after ensuring the machine was unplugged. +The other observation we made when shredding rope is that only a small amount of it falls through to the collection bin under the blades. It may be that if we'd shredded our rope for longer this would have been different. We'd be curious to hear other experiences from the [filtered] community. So we shredded our rope for a shorter period, collected the shredded rope from the collection bin underneath and then carefully removed the shredded rope from the shredder with gloves after unplugging the machine. ![image0 (2)-18881e8c3ad.jpeg](./image0_2-18881e8c3ad.jpeg) @@ -87,9 +81,10 @@ During our process, we observed that only a minimal amount of shredded rope coll ### Step 5: Select your mould and machine and apply heat -Now that your material is prepared, select your mold and machines. We used a large button mold with ocean rope, heating it in a mini oven beforehand. We noticed light corrosion on the mold's inner face, which we removed with fine sandpaper. +Now that you have your material ready for manufacture, it's time to select your mould and machines. +We use our Sustainable Design Studio large button mould with our ocean rope, heating the mould in a mini oven before use. This time when we used our mould we spotted a very light area of corrosion on the inner face of the mould which we removed with a very fine sand paper. -Wear personal protective equipment: a charcoal-activated mask and heat-resistant gloves. Ensure proper ventilation. We recommend a fume extractor or opening doors for airflow. Heat your mini oven to 200°C (390°F). +Put your PPE on, we're using a double charcoal activated face mask and heat resistant gloves. Ventilate your space. Sometime we use a fume extractor for this though when shouting this video we were able to open the double doors of our workshop space to create an air flow. Heat your mini oven to your desired temperature. We chose to heat our mini over and our mould to 200 degrees centigrade (390 degrees Fahrenheit). ![image0 (3)-18881f29a14.jpeg](./image0_3-18881f29a14.jpeg) @@ -102,11 +97,12 @@ Wear personal protective equipment: a charcoal-activated mask and heat-resistant ### Step 6: Prepare the Arbour Press for use -Set up your Arbor Press or injection molding machine in a well-ventilated area on a stable surface and switch it on. We operate our Arbor Press at 265 degrees Celsius (500 degrees Fahrenheit). +Set up your Arbour Press or injection moulding machine in a clear ventilated space on a firm surface and switch on. +We're running our Arbour Press at 265 degrees centigrade (500 degrees Fahrenheit). -Loading shredded rope into your injection molder differs from loading shredded hard plastics. Instead of pouring granules into the hopper, the shredded rope requires careful insertion. Wearing heat-resistant gloves, place the shredded rope in the hopper, then use a metal rod to guide it into the chamber. Finally, use the Arbor Press shaft to move it into position for injection. +Loading your injection moulder with shredded rope is different to loading it with shredded hard plastics like shredded DVD cases or soft drink bottle lids. Rather than pouring granules into the hopper the shredded rope needs more careful introduction to the machine. Wearing heat resistant gloves we drop shredded rope into the hopper and then using a metal rod start guiding it into the chamber. The final step is the use the shaft of the Arbour Press to move it down into the body of the Arbour Press ready for injecting. -For the first use of the day, allow the Arbor Press to sit for 20 minutes after the plastic is inserted and the temperature stabilizes, as shredded rope may contain more air than shredded hard plastics. +When preparing the press for the first injection of the day we leave the Arbour Press for a good 20 minutes once the plastic is in and the temperature is settling down. Shredded rope could easily have more air held within it than shredded hard plastics. ![image0 (4)-18881fd0731.jpeg](./image0_4-18881fd0731.jpeg) @@ -119,9 +115,11 @@ For the first use of the day, allow the Arbor Press to sit for 20 minutes after ### Step 7: Mould your ocean rope buttons -Once the mold (mould) is heated and the Arbour Press is prepared with the rope for the mold, remove the mold from the oven. Ensure there is adequate space on the workbench for the filled mold and safe movement around the Arbour Press. Lower the jack, control the plastic flow, and position the mold under the nozzle. Then, engage the mold with the Arbour Press nozzle and apply pressure to inject the plastic. +Once the mould is up to temperature and the Arbour Press has settled with its ocean rope ready for deliver into the mould, remove the mould from the mini oven. Ensuring there is space on the work bench to place the mould once it's full and space to move safely around the Arbour Press lower the jack, control the flow of molten plastic and place the mould under the nozzle. When ready engage the mould with the nozzle of the Arbour Press and apply pressure to inject the plastic into the mould. -Be attentive to the mold and pressure during injection. We noted minor condensation from the mold and resistance when full. We reduced pressure slightly, lowered the mold with the jack, and placed the filled mold on the workbench, ensuring the Arbour Press was secure. +At this point we find it important to be really observant of the mould and the pressure in the level that's delivering the molten plastic. When using this mould on this occasion we observed a small amount of condensation leave the mould mid injection and a firm piece of resistance once the mould was full. + +We released a bit of pressure on the level that delivers the molten plastic, dropped the mould on the jack and places the full mould onto the workbench, checking the Arbour Press could be left. ![image0 (6)-18882060f44.jpeg](./image0_6-18882060f44.jpeg) @@ -134,13 +132,11 @@ Be attentive to the mold and pressure during injection. We noted minor condensat ### Step 8: Opening the mould and finishing your buttons -### Final Steps in Mold Handling Tutorial +During this final step we try to manage our anticipation and stay present in our process. We review the state of the plastic inside the mould based on any visible plastic at the point where the nozzle injected it. This generally means we leave the mould for a few minutes before starting the take the steps to open it. -In the final step, manage your anticipation and stay focused. Assess the plastic within the mold by observing any visible material at the nozzle's injection point. Generally, wait a few minutes before proceeding to open the mold. +Wearing gloves to protect against the heat, and injury on the mould should the spanner slip, we carefully remove the bolts holding the mould together. Laying the mould on the workbench we use a tool to prise the mould open. -Wear gloves to guard against heat and potential injury. Carefully remove the bolts securing the mold, using a spanner with caution. Place the mold on a workbench and use a tool to gently open it. - -Buttons may sometimes detach easily, but occasionally they adhere firmly due to plastic cooling and shrinking around mold elements. If you need to lever the buttons out, do so carefully to avoid scratches, as they are difficult to remove. Use a small flat-head screwdriver and any remaining sprue to dislodge stubborn buttons. Conclude by trimming any mold marks from the buttons. +Sometimes the buttons are easily removed. Sometimes there are buttons clinging more firmly to the mould where the plastic has cooled and shrink around mould elements. If you're going to lever the buttons out of the mould, do it would great care as any scratches made on the buttons aren't easy to remove. We try to lever stubborn buttons our with any remaining sprue and a small flat head screwdriver. Finish buttons by trimming off any mould marks. ![image0 (7)-188820fa767.jpeg](./image0_7-188820fa767.jpeg) @@ -152,55 +148,4 @@ Buttons may sometimes detach easily, but occasionally they adhere firmly due to ![image2 (4)-188820fccf8.jpeg](./image2_4-188820fccf8.jpeg) ## Resources -### Tools - -- Scissors (for removing duct tape/zip ties) -- Fine sandpaper (removes mold corrosion) -- Spanner (securing/removing mold bolts) -- Small flat-head screwdriver (prying stuck buttons) -- Metal rod (guiding shredded rope into injection chamber) - -### Hardware - -- Mini oven (200°C/390°F for preheating molds) -- Commercial shredder (handles ropes ≤36mm thick) -- Arbor Press/injection molder (operated at 265°C/500°F) -- Laundry bag (washing/drying rope) -- Heat-resistant gloves (handling molten plastic) - -### Safety Equipment - -- Charcoal-activated mask (fume protection during heating) -- Heat-resistant gloves (mold and machinery handling) -- Fume extractor/ventilation system (air quality control) -- Protective gloves (general workshop safety) - -*No software mentioned in the tutorial.* -## References -## References - -### Articles - -- [How Do We Clean Up All That Ocean Plastic? - State of the Planet](https://news.climate.columbia.edu/2022/10/13/how-do-we-clean-up-all-that-ocean-plastic/) -- [Recycling Polypropylene: How To Recycle PP & The Benefits](https://www.palmetto-industries.com/recycling-polypropylene/) -- [DIY Injection Molding: How to Mold Plastic Parts In-House - Formlabs](https://formlabs.com/blog/diy-injection-molding/) - -### Books - -- [Plastic Pollution: Nature Based Solutions and Effective Governance](https://www.routledge.com/Plastic-Pollution-Nature-Based-Solutions-and-Effective-Governance/Krantzberg-Jetoo-Grover-Babel/p/book/9780367684815) -- ~~[Plastic Soup - Island Press](https://islandpress.org/books/plastic-soup)~~ - -### Papers - -- [Proceedings of the 2024 Conference of the North American Chapter...](https://aclanthology.org/2024.naacl-demo.pdf) -- [Ocean plastics: environmental implications and potential routes for...](https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC9034135/) - -### YouTube - -- [[filtered] - recycled plastic injection molding process - YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HYGJVHH-7Ck) - -### Opensource Designs - -- [Open Source Recycling | TU Delft Repository](https://repository.tudelft.nl/record/uuid:e12d9789-5c51-4570-8a5f-32570c501ba9) -- Buckle mould - Library - [filtered] Academy -- [Bridging the gap between 3D printing and small scale batch...](https://distributeddesign.eu/bridging-the-gap-between-3d-printing-and-small-scale-batch-production-with-open-source-plastic-recycling-machines/) \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/make-buttons-from-ocean-rope/config.json b/howtos/make-buttons-from-ocean-rope/config.json index ab379ef2f..764539b9f 100644 --- a/howtos/make-buttons-from-ocean-rope/config.json +++ b/howtos/make-buttons-from-ocean-rope/config.json @@ -16,13 +16,13 @@ "src": "C:\\Users\\zx\\Desktop\\osr\\osr-machines\\howtos\\make-buttons-from-ocean-rope\\pp_title_screen_-_buttons_from_ocean_rope_2-18881c5a566.jpg" }, "comments": [], - "description": "### Markdown Version\n\nIn our coastal workshop, we often prototype using plastics collected from beach cleans along the 100 miles (160 km) of the Norfolk coastline. Ocean rope, frequently found by beach cleaners, was among our first materials for experiments. This rope, typically polypropylene, is non-stretchy, often brittle, and light aqua blue.\n\nOn World Ocean Day, we highlight our commitment to removing ocean plastics and repurposing them. Addressing plastic pollution requires not just recycling but also significant production restrictions. Our efforts are centered on education and advocating for policies that reduce plastic production.", + "description": "As a coastal Precious Plastic workshop it's not a surprise to us that some of our prototyping focuses on plastics collected on Norfolk beach cleans. Ocean rope is a common find for beach cleaners around the 100 miles of Norfolk coastline and was one of our earliest experiments manufacturing from beach finds. \n\nWe pick out the rope from local finds that carries the characteristics of polypropylene rope... ropes that aren't stretchy, are often brittle and crunchy to the touch and commonly a light aqua blue. We're sharing this video on World Ocean Day because as a coastal workshop we feel a particular responsibility for removing plastic from the ocean and turn into things that should never be in the sea again. Plastic isn't the solution for future plastic, to tackle future plastic production we need significant curbs on production. Our work focuses on education and recycling existing plastic while campaigning for more robust policy to reduce production at the source. ", "fileLink": "", "total_downloads": 0, "slug": "make-buttons-from-ocean-rope", "steps": [ { - "text": "### Working with Beach Clean Groups for Plastic Collection\n\nWhen approached by beach clean groups in Norfolk eager to donate plastics, we collaborated with them over the past year. They regularly collect significant amounts of rope from the Norfolk coastline.\n\nIf you're in a coastal area, contact local beach clean groups. These groups often value opportunities to recycle plastic due to their commitment to marine conservation.\n\nFor those not near the coast, consider finding beach clean groups elsewhere as a resource, though sourcing local plastics is advisable.", + "text": "A potentially obvious step, but one we thought it was worth mentioning all the same. When we were approached by beach clean groups in Norfolk they were desperate to find somewhere to donate their plastics to avoid them going into landfill or being incinerated. We have worked with Norfolk beach clean groups for over 12 months now and they pick up a lot of rope from the Norfolk coastline every month. \n\nIf you're in a coastal location, reach out to any organised groups that you can find. They're likely to welcome the opportunity of having their plastic recycled, because they're generally people who have a very deep love and sense of responsibility for marine conservation and ensuring litter doesn't end up in the wrong place. \n\nIf you're not a coastal [filtered] workshop then it could be worth seeking out beach clean groups in other parts of the country as a source, though we'd be inclined to encourage you to find plastics that are local to you. ", "_animationKey": "unique1", "images": [ { @@ -80,7 +80,7 @@ } ], "title": "Sort and inspect your rope", - "text": "### Rope Sorting and Inspection Guide\n\nInspect your rope to identify polypropylene (PP) material and remove any attached items such as duct tape or zip ties. This ensures only desired materials remain for cleaning.\n\nIdentifying PP ocean rope is straightforward, though not foolproof. These ropes typically have a plastic appearance, are non-stretchy, and feel brittle or crunchy. Common colors include light aqua blue, black, yellow, or white, with light blue being the most recognizable.\n\nUse scissors to remove duct tape or zip ties. General dirt will be addressed in the subsequent cleaning step.", + "text": "Sorting and inspecting your rope is an important step ahead of cleaning. At this step you're looking to identify the polypropylene (PP) rope and remove anything like duct tape, zip ties or alike that are attached to the rope and won't be removed by cleaning. \n\nIdentifying polypropylene (PP) ocean rope is relatively easy though not a guarantee of a correct material identification. Polypropylene (PP) ropes are clearly plastic, with some characteristic features that when followed we find to provide us with enough rope and up until now has always avoided contamination. We look for ropes that aren't stretchy, are often brittle and crunchy to the touch and commonly a light aqua blue. We've found that ocean rope is also commonly black, or yellow and white, though we find the light blue is easiest to identify. \n\nRemove anything like duct tape, zip ties or alike that are attached to the rope using scissors. General dirt will be removed by the cleaning step that comes next. ", "_animationKey": "unique2" }, { @@ -123,11 +123,11 @@ } ], "title": "Clean and dry the rope", - "text": "Cleaning and drying the rope is simple. Use a laundry bag, washing machine, and an airing cupboard. The washing machine can employ a standard 40°C (104°F) cycle with unscented detergent.\n\nFor drying, leave the rope in the laundry bag and place it in an airing cupboard overnight or on a sunny windowsill. After a few hours or a night, the rope should be dry. If not, rearrange the rope and leave it for additional time.", + "text": "Cleaning and drying the rope is straightforward enough. We use a laundry bag, a washing machine and an airing cupboard. Ideally the washing machine would be part of a circular system that filters the waste water before feeding it back into the machine to avoid microplastics escaping. \n\nWe use a regular 40 degree centigrade (104 degrees fahrenheit) with an unfragranced detergent. \n\nOur approach to drying the plastic again makes use of regular household or workshop features. We tend to leave the rope in the laundry bag and place the bag in either an airing cupboard overnight or on a windowsill on a sunny day. In our experience after an afternoon or a night in one of these spots the rope should feel dry. If not, rearrange the rope so that different pieces are on top and leave it for a further afternoon or evening.", "_animationKey": "unique3" }, { - "text": "Shredding ocean rope differs significantly from shredding hard plastics like DVD cases or soft drink bottle lids. We encountered ropes up to 1.4 inches (36 mm) thick from beach cleanups, necessitating the use of a larger commercial shredder over a smaller one. It is advisable to assess your rope's thickness and your shredder's power before proceeding.\n\nDuring our process, we observed that only a minimal amount of shredded rope collected in the bin below the blades. Prolonged shredding might alter this outcome. After a brief shredding period, we retrieved the shredded material from the bin and carefully removed the remaining pieces from the shredder with gloves, after ensuring the machine was unplugged.", + "text": "We've found shredding ocean rope to be a completely different experience to shredding a hard plastic like a DVD case or a soft drink bottle lid. Some of the ocean rope we've received from beach cleans has been as thick as 36mm, so we decided to use our bigger commercial shredder rather than our smaller [filtered] shredder. We'd recommend that you review the thickness of the rope you're looking to shred and the power of your shredder and act accordingly. \n\nThe other observation we made when shredding rope is that only a small amount of it falls through to the collection bin under the blades. It may be that if we'd shredded our rope for longer this would have been different. We'd be curious to hear other experiences from the [filtered] community. So we shredded our rope for a shorter period, collected the shredded rope from the collection bin underneath and then carefully removed the shredded rope from the shredder with gloves after unplugging the machine. ", "images": [ { "name": "image0 (2)-18881e8c3ad.jpeg", @@ -171,7 +171,7 @@ }, { "_animationKey": "uniquej0m57f", - "text": "Now that your material is prepared, select your mold and machines. We used a large button mold with ocean rope, heating it in a mini oven beforehand. We noticed light corrosion on the mold's inner face, which we removed with fine sandpaper.\n\nWear personal protective equipment: a charcoal-activated mask and heat-resistant gloves. Ensure proper ventilation. We recommend a fume extractor or opening doors for airflow. Heat your mini oven to 200°C (390°F).", + "text": "Now that you have your material ready for manufacture, it's time to select your mould and machines. \nWe use our Sustainable Design Studio large button mould with our ocean rope, heating the mould in a mini oven before use. This time when we used our mould we spotted a very light area of corrosion on the inner face of the mould which we removed with a very fine sand paper. \n\nPut your PPE on, we're using a double charcoal activated face mask and heat resistant gloves. Ventilate your space. Sometime we use a fume extractor for this though when shouting this video we were able to open the double doors of our workshop space to create an air flow. Heat your mini oven to your desired temperature. We chose to heat our mini over and our mould to 200 degrees centigrade (390 degrees Fahrenheit). ", "title": "Select your mould and machine and apply heat", "images": [ { @@ -252,13 +252,13 @@ } ], "title": "Prepare the Arbour Press for use", - "text": "Set up your Arbor Press or injection molding machine in a well-ventilated area on a stable surface and switch it on. We operate our Arbor Press at 265 degrees Celsius (500 degrees Fahrenheit).\n\nLoading shredded rope into your injection molder differs from loading shredded hard plastics. Instead of pouring granules into the hopper, the shredded rope requires careful insertion. Wearing heat-resistant gloves, place the shredded rope in the hopper, then use a metal rod to guide it into the chamber. Finally, use the Arbor Press shaft to move it into position for injection.\n\nFor the first use of the day, allow the Arbor Press to sit for 20 minutes after the plastic is inserted and the temperature stabilizes, as shredded rope may contain more air than shredded hard plastics.", + "text": "Set up your Arbour Press or injection moulding machine in a clear ventilated space on a firm surface and switch on. \nWe're running our Arbour Press at 265 degrees centigrade (500 degrees Fahrenheit). \n\nLoading your injection moulder with shredded rope is different to loading it with shredded hard plastics like shredded DVD cases or soft drink bottle lids. Rather than pouring granules into the hopper the shredded rope needs more careful introduction to the machine. Wearing heat resistant gloves we drop shredded rope into the hopper and then using a metal rod start guiding it into the chamber. The final step is the use the shaft of the Arbour Press to move it down into the body of the Arbour Press ready for injecting. \n\nWhen preparing the press for the first injection of the day we leave the Arbour Press for a good 20 minutes once the plastic is in and the temperature is settling down. Shredded rope could easily have more air held within it than shredded hard plastics.", "_animationKey": "uniquedf3ob" }, { "_animationKey": "uniqued0u8u", "title": "Mould your ocean rope buttons ", - "text": "Once the mold (mould) is heated and the Arbour Press is prepared with the rope for the mold, remove the mold from the oven. Ensure there is adequate space on the workbench for the filled mold and safe movement around the Arbour Press. Lower the jack, control the plastic flow, and position the mold under the nozzle. Then, engage the mold with the Arbour Press nozzle and apply pressure to inject the plastic.\n\nBe attentive to the mold and pressure during injection. We noted minor condensation from the mold and resistance when full. We reduced pressure slightly, lowered the mold with the jack, and placed the filled mold on the workbench, ensuring the Arbour Press was secure.", + "text": "Once the mould is up to temperature and the Arbour Press has settled with its ocean rope ready for deliver into the mould, remove the mould from the mini oven. Ensuring there is space on the work bench to place the mould once it's full and space to move safely around the Arbour Press lower the jack, control the flow of molten plastic and place the mould under the nozzle. When ready engage the mould with the nozzle of the Arbour Press and apply pressure to inject the plastic into the mould. \n\nAt this point we find it important to be really observant of the mould and the pressure in the level that's delivering the molten plastic. When using this mould on this occasion we observed a small amount of condensation leave the mould mid injection and a firm piece of resistance once the mould was full. \n\nWe released a bit of pressure on the level that delivers the molten plastic, dropped the mould on the jack and places the full mould onto the workbench, checking the Arbour Press could be left. ", "images": [ { "timeCreated": "2023-06-03T16:29:38.805Z", @@ -339,7 +339,7 @@ ], "title": "Opening the mould and finishing your buttons", "_animationKey": "uniqueamjsi", - "text": "### Final Steps in Mold Handling Tutorial\n\nIn the final step, manage your anticipation and stay focused. Assess the plastic within the mold by observing any visible material at the nozzle's injection point. Generally, wait a few minutes before proceeding to open the mold.\n\nWear gloves to guard against heat and potential injury. Carefully remove the bolts securing the mold, using a spanner with caution. Place the mold on a workbench and use a tool to gently open it.\n\nButtons may sometimes detach easily, but occasionally they adhere firmly due to plastic cooling and shrinking around mold elements. If you need to lever the buttons out, do so carefully to avoid scratches, as they are difficult to remove. Use a small flat-head screwdriver and any remaining sprue to dislodge stubborn buttons. Conclude by trimming any mold marks from the buttons." + "text": "During this final step we try to manage our anticipation and stay present in our process. We review the state of the plastic inside the mould based on any visible plastic at the point where the nozzle injected it. This generally means we leave the mould for a few minutes before starting the take the steps to open it. \n\nWearing gloves to protect against the heat, and injury on the mould should the spanner slip, we carefully remove the bolts holding the mould together. Laying the mould on the workbench we use a tool to prise the mould open. \n\nSometimes the buttons are easily removed. Sometimes there are buttons clinging more firmly to the mould where the plastic has cooled and shrink around mould elements. If you're going to lever the buttons out of the mould, do it would great care as any scratches made on the buttons aren't easy to remove. We try to lever stubborn buttons our with any remaining sprue and a small flat head screwdriver. Finish buttons by trimming off any mould marks. " } ], "id": "5iDnuh5lU3Sz6NFpFZrp", @@ -538,9 +538,5 @@ "urls": [] } }, - "content": "### Markdown Version\n\nIn our coastal workshop, we often prototype using plastics collected from beach cleans along the 100 miles (160 km) of the Norfolk coastline. Ocean rope, frequently found by beach cleaners, was among our first materials for experiments. This rope, typically polypropylene, is non-stretchy, often brittle, and light aqua blue.\n\nOn World Ocean Day, we highlight our commitment to removing ocean plastics and repurposing them. Addressing plastic pollution requires not just recycling but also significant production restrictions. Our efforts are centered on education and advocating for policies that reduce plastic production.\n\n\nUser Location: Great Yarmouth, United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland (the)\n\n### Working with Beach Clean Groups for Plastic Collection\n\nWhen approached by beach clean groups in Norfolk eager to donate plastics, we collaborated with them over the past year. They regularly collect significant amounts of rope from the Norfolk coastline.\n\nIf you're in a coastal area, contact local beach clean groups. These groups often value opportunities to recycle plastic due to their commitment to marine conservation.\n\nFor those not near the coast, consider finding beach clean groups elsewhere as a resource, though sourcing local plastics is advisable.\n\n### Rope Sorting and Inspection Guide\n\nInspect your rope to identify polypropylene (PP) material and remove any attached items such as duct tape or zip ties. This ensures only desired materials remain for cleaning.\n\nIdentifying PP ocean rope is straightforward, though not foolproof. These ropes typically have a plastic appearance, are non-stretchy, and feel brittle or crunchy. Common colors include light aqua blue, black, yellow, or white, with light blue being the most recognizable.\n\nUse scissors to remove duct tape or zip ties. General dirt will be addressed in the subsequent cleaning step.\n\nCleaning and drying the rope is simple. Use a laundry bag, washing machine, and an airing cupboard. The washing machine can employ a standard 40°C (104°F) cycle with unscented detergent.\n\nFor drying, leave the rope in the laundry bag and place it in an airing cupboard overnight or on a sunny windowsill. After a few hours or a night, the rope should be dry. If not, rearrange the rope and leave it for additional time.\n\nShredding ocean rope differs significantly from shredding hard plastics like DVD cases or soft drink bottle lids. We encountered ropes up to 1.4 inches (36 mm) thick from beach cleanups, necessitating the use of a larger commercial shredder over a smaller one. It is advisable to assess your rope's thickness and your shredder's power before proceeding.\n\nDuring our process, we observed that only a minimal amount of shredded rope collected in the bin below the blades. Prolonged shredding might alter this outcome. After a brief shredding period, we retrieved the shredded material from the bin and carefully removed the remaining pieces from the shredder with gloves, after ensuring the machine was unplugged.\n\nNow that your material is prepared, select your mold and machines. We used a large button mold with ocean rope, heating it in a mini oven beforehand. We noticed light corrosion on the mold's inner face, which we removed with fine sandpaper.\n\nWear personal protective equipment: a charcoal-activated mask and heat-resistant gloves. Ensure proper ventilation. We recommend a fume extractor or opening doors for airflow. Heat your mini oven to 200°C (390°F).\n\nSet up your Arbor Press or injection molding machine in a well-ventilated area on a stable surface and switch it on. We operate our Arbor Press at 265 degrees Celsius (500 degrees Fahrenheit).\n\nLoading shredded rope into your injection molder differs from loading shredded hard plastics. Instead of pouring granules into the hopper, the shredded rope requires careful insertion. Wearing heat-resistant gloves, place the shredded rope in the hopper, then use a metal rod to guide it into the chamber. Finally, use the Arbor Press shaft to move it into position for injection.\n\nFor the first use of the day, allow the Arbor Press to sit for 20 minutes after the plastic is inserted and the temperature stabilizes, as shredded rope may contain more air than shredded hard plastics.\n\nOnce the mold (mould) is heated and the Arbour Press is prepared with the rope for the mold, remove the mold from the oven. Ensure there is adequate space on the workbench for the filled mold and safe movement around the Arbour Press. Lower the jack, control the plastic flow, and position the mold under the nozzle. Then, engage the mold with the Arbour Press nozzle and apply pressure to inject the plastic.\n\nBe attentive to the mold and pressure during injection. We noted minor condensation from the mold and resistance when full. We reduced pressure slightly, lowered the mold with the jack, and placed the filled mold on the workbench, ensuring the Arbour Press was secure.\n\n### Final Steps in Mold Handling Tutorial\n\nIn the final step, manage your anticipation and stay focused. Assess the plastic within the mold by observing any visible material at the nozzle's injection point. Generally, wait a few minutes before proceeding to open the mold.\n\nWear gloves to guard against heat and potential injury. Carefully remove the bolts securing the mold, using a spanner with caution. Place the mold on a workbench and use a tool to gently open it.\n\nButtons may sometimes detach easily, but occasionally they adhere firmly due to plastic cooling and shrinking around mold elements. If you need to lever the buttons out, do so carefully to avoid scratches, as they are difficult to remove. Use a small flat-head screwdriver and any remaining sprue to dislodge stubborn buttons. Conclude by trimming any mold marks from the buttons.", - "keywords": "beach cleaning, ocean plastics, plastic pollution, marine conservation, polypropylene rope, Norfolk coastline, recycling ocean waste, plastic repurposing, injection molding, sustainable practices", - "resources": "### Tools\n\n- Scissors (for removing duct tape/zip ties)\n- Fine sandpaper (removes mold corrosion)\n- Spanner (securing/removing mold bolts)\n- Small flat-head screwdriver (prying stuck buttons)\n- Metal rod (guiding shredded rope into injection chamber)\n\n### Hardware\n\n- Mini oven (200°C/390°F for preheating molds)\n- Commercial shredder (handles ropes ≤36mm thick)\n- Arbor Press/injection molder (operated at 265°C/500°F)\n- Laundry bag (washing/drying rope)\n- Heat-resistant gloves (handling molten plastic)\n\n### Safety Equipment\n\n- Charcoal-activated mask (fume protection during heating)\n- Heat-resistant gloves (mold and machinery handling)\n- Fume extractor/ventilation system (air quality control)\n- Protective gloves (general workshop safety)\n\n*No software mentioned in the tutorial.*", - "references": "## References\n\n### Articles\n\n- [How Do We Clean Up All That Ocean Plastic? - State of the Planet](https://news.climate.columbia.edu/2022/10/13/how-do-we-clean-up-all-that-ocean-plastic/)\n- [Recycling Polypropylene: How To Recycle PP & The Benefits](https://www.palmetto-industries.com/recycling-polypropylene/)\n- [DIY Injection Molding: How to Mold Plastic Parts In-House - Formlabs](https://formlabs.com/blog/diy-injection-molding/)\n\n### Books\n\n- [Plastic Pollution: Nature Based Solutions and Effective Governance](https://www.routledge.com/Plastic-Pollution-Nature-Based-Solutions-and-Effective-Governance/Krantzberg-Jetoo-Grover-Babel/p/book/9780367684815)\n- ~~[Plastic Soup - Island Press](https://islandpress.org/books/plastic-soup)~~\n\n### Papers\n\n- [Proceedings of the 2024 Conference of the North American Chapter...](https://aclanthology.org/2024.naacl-demo.pdf)\n- [Ocean plastics: environmental implications and potential routes for...](https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC9034135/)\n\n### YouTube\n\n- [[filtered] - recycled plastic injection molding process - YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HYGJVHH-7Ck)\n\n### Opensource Designs\n\n- [Open Source Recycling | TU Delft Repository](https://repository.tudelft.nl/record/uuid:e12d9789-5c51-4570-8a5f-32570c501ba9)\n- Buckle mould - Library - [filtered] Academy\n- [Bridging the gap between 3D printing and small scale batch...](https://distributeddesign.eu/bridging-the-gap-between-3d-printing-and-small-scale-batch-production-with-open-source-plastic-recycling-machines/)", - "brief": "Transform ocean plastics into sustainable products through our Norfolk beach collaboration. Join us in reducing pollution and advocating for production cuts." + "content": "As a coastal Precious Plastic workshop it's not a surprise to us that some of our prototyping focuses on plastics collected on Norfolk beach cleans. Ocean rope is a common find for beach cleaners around the 100 miles of Norfolk coastline and was one of our earliest experiments manufacturing from beach finds. \n\nWe pick out the rope from local finds that carries the characteristics of polypropylene rope... ropes that aren't stretchy, are often brittle and crunchy to the touch and commonly a light aqua blue. We're sharing this video on World Ocean Day because as a coastal workshop we feel a particular responsibility for removing plastic from the ocean and turn into things that should never be in the sea again. Plastic isn't the solution for future plastic, to tackle future plastic production we need significant curbs on production. Our work focuses on education and recycling existing plastic while campaigning for more robust policy to reduce production at the source. \n\n\nUser Location: Great Yarmouth, United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland (the)\n\nA potentially obvious step, but one we thought it was worth mentioning all the same. When we were approached by beach clean groups in Norfolk they were desperate to find somewhere to donate their plastics to avoid them going into landfill or being incinerated. We have worked with Norfolk beach clean groups for over 12 months now and they pick up a lot of rope from the Norfolk coastline every month. \n\nIf you're in a coastal location, reach out to any organised groups that you can find. They're likely to welcome the opportunity of having their plastic recycled, because they're generally people who have a very deep love and sense of responsibility for marine conservation and ensuring litter doesn't end up in the wrong place. \n\nIf you're not a coastal [filtered] workshop then it could be worth seeking out beach clean groups in other parts of the country as a source, though we'd be inclined to encourage you to find plastics that are local to you. \n\nSorting and inspecting your rope is an important step ahead of cleaning. At this step you're looking to identify the polypropylene (PP) rope and remove anything like duct tape, zip ties or alike that are attached to the rope and won't be removed by cleaning. \n\nIdentifying polypropylene (PP) ocean rope is relatively easy though not a guarantee of a correct material identification. Polypropylene (PP) ropes are clearly plastic, with some characteristic features that when followed we find to provide us with enough rope and up until now has always avoided contamination. We look for ropes that aren't stretchy, are often brittle and crunchy to the touch and commonly a light aqua blue. We've found that ocean rope is also commonly black, or yellow and white, though we find the light blue is easiest to identify. \n\nRemove anything like duct tape, zip ties or alike that are attached to the rope using scissors. General dirt will be removed by the cleaning step that comes next. \n\nCleaning and drying the rope is straightforward enough. We use a laundry bag, a washing machine and an airing cupboard. Ideally the washing machine would be part of a circular system that filters the waste water before feeding it back into the machine to avoid microplastics escaping. \n\nWe use a regular 40 degree centigrade (104 degrees fahrenheit) with an unfragranced detergent. \n\nOur approach to drying the plastic again makes use of regular household or workshop features. We tend to leave the rope in the laundry bag and place the bag in either an airing cupboard overnight or on a windowsill on a sunny day. In our experience after an afternoon or a night in one of these spots the rope should feel dry. If not, rearrange the rope so that different pieces are on top and leave it for a further afternoon or evening.\n\nWe've found shredding ocean rope to be a completely different experience to shredding a hard plastic like a DVD case or a soft drink bottle lid. Some of the ocean rope we've received from beach cleans has been as thick as 36mm, so we decided to use our bigger commercial shredder rather than our smaller [filtered] shredder. We'd recommend that you review the thickness of the rope you're looking to shred and the power of your shredder and act accordingly. \n\nThe other observation we made when shredding rope is that only a small amount of it falls through to the collection bin under the blades. It may be that if we'd shredded our rope for longer this would have been different. We'd be curious to hear other experiences from the [filtered] community. So we shredded our rope for a shorter period, collected the shredded rope from the collection bin underneath and then carefully removed the shredded rope from the shredder with gloves after unplugging the machine. \n\nNow that you have your material ready for manufacture, it's time to select your mould and machines. \nWe use our Sustainable Design Studio large button mould with our ocean rope, heating the mould in a mini oven before use. This time when we used our mould we spotted a very light area of corrosion on the inner face of the mould which we removed with a very fine sand paper. \n\nPut your PPE on, we're using a double charcoal activated face mask and heat resistant gloves. Ventilate your space. Sometime we use a fume extractor for this though when shouting this video we were able to open the double doors of our workshop space to create an air flow. Heat your mini oven to your desired temperature. We chose to heat our mini over and our mould to 200 degrees centigrade (390 degrees Fahrenheit). \n\nSet up your Arbour Press or injection moulding machine in a clear ventilated space on a firm surface and switch on. \nWe're running our Arbour Press at 265 degrees centigrade (500 degrees Fahrenheit). \n\nLoading your injection moulder with shredded rope is different to loading it with shredded hard plastics like shredded DVD cases or soft drink bottle lids. Rather than pouring granules into the hopper the shredded rope needs more careful introduction to the machine. Wearing heat resistant gloves we drop shredded rope into the hopper and then using a metal rod start guiding it into the chamber. The final step is the use the shaft of the Arbour Press to move it down into the body of the Arbour Press ready for injecting. \n\nWhen preparing the press for the first injection of the day we leave the Arbour Press for a good 20 minutes once the plastic is in and the temperature is settling down. Shredded rope could easily have more air held within it than shredded hard plastics.\n\nOnce the mould is up to temperature and the Arbour Press has settled with its ocean rope ready for deliver into the mould, remove the mould from the mini oven. Ensuring there is space on the work bench to place the mould once it's full and space to move safely around the Arbour Press lower the jack, control the flow of molten plastic and place the mould under the nozzle. When ready engage the mould with the nozzle of the Arbour Press and apply pressure to inject the plastic into the mould. \n\nAt this point we find it important to be really observant of the mould and the pressure in the level that's delivering the molten plastic. When using this mould on this occasion we observed a small amount of condensation leave the mould mid injection and a firm piece of resistance once the mould was full. \n\nWe released a bit of pressure on the level that delivers the molten plastic, dropped the mould on the jack and places the full mould onto the workbench, checking the Arbour Press could be left. \n\nDuring this final step we try to manage our anticipation and stay present in our process. We review the state of the plastic inside the mould based on any visible plastic at the point where the nozzle injected it. This generally means we leave the mould for a few minutes before starting the take the steps to open it. \n\nWearing gloves to protect against the heat, and injury on the mould should the spanner slip, we carefully remove the bolts holding the mould together. Laying the mould on the workbench we use a tool to prise the mould open. \n\nSometimes the buttons are easily removed. Sometimes there are buttons clinging more firmly to the mould where the plastic has cooled and shrink around mould elements. If you're going to lever the buttons out of the mould, do it would great care as any scratches made on the buttons aren't easy to remove. We try to lever stubborn buttons our with any remaining sprue and a small flat head screwdriver. Finish buttons by trimming off any mould marks. " } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/make-christmas-ornaments-from-upcycled-bottle-caps/README.md b/howtos/make-christmas-ornaments-from-upcycled-bottle-caps/README.md index 881f3d5e7..e9cab984f 100644 --- a/howtos/make-christmas-ornaments-from-upcycled-bottle-caps/README.md +++ b/howtos/make-christmas-ornaments-from-upcycled-bottle-caps/README.md @@ -1,67 +1,58 @@ --- title: Make christmas ornaments from upcycled bottle caps slug: make-christmas-ornaments-from-upcycled-bottle-caps -description: Transform plastic waste into charming Christmas ornaments for decoration or gift embellishment. +description: Turn your plastic waste into some cute Christmas Ornaments that you can use for decoration or to hang on your gifts. Let`s make Christmas less trashy! -**Required Materials:** +What you will need: -- Bottle caps -- Panini press with a flat surface -- Silicone gloves -- Baking paper -- Eye protection -- Respiratory mask -- Fret saw (manual or electrical) -- Sharp knife or razor blade -- Cookie cutters or paper stencil +- Bottle caps +- A panini press with a flat surface +- Silicone gloves +- Baking paper +- Eye protection +- Respiration mask +- a fret saw (manual or electrical) +- sharp knife or razor blade +- cookie cutters or paper stencil tags: ["melting","PP","HDPE","product"] category: Products difficulty: Easy time: < 5 hours -keywords: plastic waste recycling, Christmas ornaments DIY, bottle cap crafts, homemade holiday decorations, upcycled gift ideas, sustainable Christmas decor, eco-friendly crafts, repurposing plastic, handmade ornaments tutorial, recycling bottle caps +keywords: location: Luneburg, Germany --- # Make christmas ornaments from upcycled bottle caps ![Make christmas ornaments from upcycled bottle caps](InMocean-xmas-ornaments-a.jpg) -Transform plastic waste into charming Christmas ornaments for decoration or gift embellishment. +Turn your plastic waste into some cute Christmas Ornaments that you can use for decoration or to hang on your gifts. Let`s make Christmas less trashy! -**Required Materials:** +What you will need: -- Bottle caps -- Panini press with a flat surface -- Silicone gloves -- Baking paper -- Eye protection -- Respiratory mask -- Fret saw (manual or electrical) -- Sharp knife or razor blade -- Cookie cutters or paper stencil +- Bottle caps +- A panini press with a flat surface +- Silicone gloves +- Baking paper +- Eye protection +- Respiration mask +- a fret saw (manual or electrical) +- sharp knife or razor blade +- cookie cutters or paper stencil User Location: Luneburg, Germany ## Steps ### Step 1: Sort your bottle caps -### Bottle Cap Sorting Guide +First you need to sort your bottle caps to make sure they are all the same kind of plastic. You can use either a batch of HDPE or PP bottle caps. You can usually find the recycling category on the inside of the bottle cap: number 2 for HDPE and number 5 for PP. -1. **Identify Plastic Type** - Sort bottle caps by type: either HDPE or PP. Check for the recycling symbol inside the cap: '2' indicates HDPE and '5' indicates PP. - -2. **Physical Identification** - If not labeled, determine plastic type by feel. HDPE caps are more flexible, PP caps are rigid. Typically, milk jug caps are HDPE; soda bottle caps may be PP. - -3. **Contamination Precaution** - When uncertain about a cap's type, discard it to prevent possible contamination of the batch. +If they are not labeled, you can also identify them by squeezing them a bit. You will notice that HDPE caps are a bit more flexible and PP are a bit more rigid. Caps from milk jugs are usually made from HDPE whereas some caps for soda bottle are sometimes PP. If in doubt, through it out! Otherwise, you risk to contaminate your batch. ![InMocean-xmas-ornaments-2a.jpg](./InMocean-xmas-ornaments-2a.jpg) ### Step 2: Wash your bottle caps -### Cleaning and Preparing Caps +Once sorted, you need to wash the caps that you want to use. You can either soak them in a sink and clean them manually with a brush. If you plan to recycle quite a lot of caps, it will be more efficient to put them into a clothes bag and throw them into the washing machine, choosing a short washing cycle. Let them dry completely and you are ready for the next step. -1. **Wash Caps**: Soak caps in a sink and scrub with a brush, or for larger quantities, place them in a laundry bag and use a short cycle in the washing machine. Ensure the caps are thoroughly dried before proceeding. - -2. **Color Selection**: Decide on color combinations for your ornaments. While the example uses red, white, and green, choose based on your available colors and desired aesthetic. +Also, think about what colors you want your ornaments to be. We chose red and white as base colors and added some green highlights to give the ornaments a Christmassy touch. But of course, it`s totally up to you what color you like your ornaments to be – and up to what colors you may have available. ![InMocean-xmas-ornaments-3a.jpg](./InMocean-xmas-ornaments-3a.jpg) @@ -71,18 +62,19 @@ User Location: Luneburg, Germany ### Step 3: First layer of bottle caps -Plug in your panini press and let it heat up. Use a flat surface model for an even plastic sheet. Once hot, place a baking sheet on the press. Teflon sheets are recommended for durability. +Plug in your panini press and let it heat up. Make sure you are using one with a flat surface in order to get a flat plastic sheet for your ornaments. Once the panini press is hot, place a baking sheet on the press. We usually work with Teflon baking sheets because you can reuse them more often and they don`t tear apart. -Place bottle caps on the press; orientation doesn't matter. Cover them with a second baking sheet and close the press. +Now place your bottle caps on the panini press. It does not matter which way round you place them, they will melt just the same. Now cover the bottle caps with a second baking sheet and close the panini press. + +It helps the melting process, if you place something heavy on top of the panini press. This can be some bricks or heavy books, whatever you may have available. -To aid the melting process, place a heavy object, such as bricks or books, on top of the press. ![InMocean-xmas-ornaments-5a.jpg](./InMocean-xmas-ornaments-5a.jpg) ### Step 4: Second or third layer -After melting the bottle caps, you can add additional layers as in Step 2. The desired thickness of your ornaments will determine the number of layers. For a plastic sheet approximately 0.12 to 0.16 inches (3 to 4 mm) thick, melt 2 to 4 layers of bottle caps, depending on their size. +Once your bottle caps are melted, you can add one or two more layers on top of it in the same way you did in Step 2. This depends a bit on how thick you want your ornaments to be. We went for 3 to 4mm thickness for the plastic sheet. You will need to melt 2 to 4 layers of bottle caps for that, depending a bit on the size of your caps. ![InMocean-xmas-ornaments-6a.jpg](./InMocean-xmas-ornaments-6a.jpg) @@ -92,45 +84,47 @@ After melting the bottle caps, you can add additional layers as in Step 2. The d ### Step 5: Create a beautiful batik desig -You should now have a layer of melted bottle caps. You may use the sheet immediately or create a batik design. To do so, wear silicone gloves, roll the warm plastic into a sausage shape, and twist it. Let your creativity guide you—pull, fold, and twist the plastic until the desired pattern is achieved. If the plastic hardens, simply reheat it in the press to make it moldable again. +Now you should have a layer of melted bottle caps. You can either use the sheet right away or you can create a pretty batik design. To create that, put on some silicone gloves, roll the warm plastic into a sausage and then twist it around. This step is totally up to your own creativity. You can pull the warm plastic to stretch it, then fold it together and twist it again until you reach your desired design. +If the plastic hardens in the process, you can always re-heat it in the press to make it moldable again. + +Now you have a lump of plastic that needs to be melted again in order to make a flat sheet from it. -At this point, you have a lump of plastic that needs to be melted again to form a flat sheet. ![InMocean-xmas-ornaments-8a.jpg](./InMocean-xmas-ornaments-8a.jpg) ### Step 6: Make a flat sheet -Place the plastic piece inside the panini press and heat it until it softens. Once pliable, apply pressure to the press. To enhance stretching, consider gently sitting on the press, ensuring you avoid burns. +Place the plastic lump inside the panini press and heat it up. Once the plastic starts to get soft, you can start applying pressure to the panini press again. We found that it helps to sit on top of it (careful not to burn yourself) and wiggle around a bit to make sure the plastic stretches out far enough. + +You can also remove the plastic from the press and use a rolling pin, but we found that sitting on top of the press works much better because you are not removing the plastic from the heat source. -Alternatively, use a rolling pin after removing the plastic, though maintaining contact with the heat source typically yields better results. ![InMocean-xmas-ornaments-9a.jpg](./InMocean-xmas-ornaments-9a.jpg) ### Step 7: Let it cool down -Open the press periodically to check if the sheet has reached the desired thickness. Once satisfied, turn off the press and allow the sheet to cool with a weight on top to prevent deformation. +Open the press every now and then to check if you have reached the desired thickness of the sheet. Once it`s to your liking, switch off the press and let the sheet cool down. Make sure to leave something heavy on top of the press, otherwise your plastic will deform in the cooling process. ![InMocean-xmas-ornaments-10a.jpg](./InMocean-xmas-ornaments-10a.jpg) ### Step 8: Draw your ornaments onto sheet -Once the sheet has cooled, you can begin designing. Use a pen suitable for plastic to sketch your ornaments. Cookie cutters or paper stencils can serve as helpful guides. +Once your sheet has cooled down, it`s time to get creative. Grab a pen that writes on plastic and draw your ornaments on the plastic sheet. We used cookie cutters for some of them but we also made some stencils from paper. + +When choosing your design, try to think about the sawing process: the more difficult or filigree your design is, the harder it will be to cut it out. Maybe start with something simple and then work your way towards more complicated designs. -Consider the sawing process when selecting a design; intricate patterns are harder to cut. Starting with simple designs and gradually moving to complex ones is advisable. ![InMocean-xmas-ornaments-11a.jpg](./InMocean-xmas-ornaments-11a.jpg) ### Step 9: Cut out the ornaments -## Cutting Instructions +Now it`s time to cut. For this step, you need a fretsaw. This can be a manual one or an electrical one, both work. We used an electrical one because it makes the process a little easier. But it`s also possible with a manual one, you just need a bit more patience. +Move the saw along the lines that you drew on the plastic sheet and voilà: you have your Christmas Ornament. -For this step, use a fretsaw, which can be manual or electric. An electric saw simplifies the process, but a manual saw is also effective with some additional patience. - -Guide the saw along the lines drawn on the plastic sheet to complete your Christmas ornament. ![InMocean-xmas-ornaments-12a.jpg](./InMocean-xmas-ornaments-12a.jpg) @@ -143,18 +137,22 @@ Guide the saw along the lines drawn on the plastic sheet to complete your Christ ### Step 10: Clean the edges -To clean the edges of your ornament, use a sharp knife or razor blade, as it is more effective than sandpaper. Ensure all small plastic pieces are collected during this process for reuse. They can be melted down again in future projects. +Use a sharp knife or razor blade to clean the edges of your ornament. We found that this works better than using sanding paper and it also produces less micro plastic. + +Remember: You don`t want to create additional pollution with your crafting, so make sure you always collect all the little plastic pieces that get cut off during your creative process. The great thing: you can throw them back on the panini press for your next batch! + ![InMocean-xmas-ornaments-14a.jpg](./InMocean-xmas-ornaments-14a.jpg) ### Step 11: Drill a hole and add a string -To complete your ornament, drill a small hole at the top to accommodate your string, considering its thickness. +You are nearly ready now. Just drill a small hole into the top of your ornament so you can add a string. The size of the hole depends on the thickness of your string. -We used strings collected over the years. +We re-used strings that we had collected over the past years. That way, your Christmas ornaments are 100% upcycled and zero new materials were needed to create them. + +That`s it, your ornaments are ready. Well done and congratulations to help cut down on the trash that is produced during Christmas time. -Your ornaments are now ready. Congratulations on your effort to reduce waste during Christmas. ![InMocean-xmas-ornaments-15a.jpg](./InMocean-xmas-ornaments-15a.jpg) @@ -164,12 +162,11 @@ Your ornaments are now ready. Congratulations on your effort to reduce waste dur ### Step 12: Gift the ornament to a friend -### Handmade Holiday Ornaments - -This step is optional. By gifting your handmade ornaments to friends or family, you demonstrate that new items are not necessary for Christmas decorations. Creating ornaments from bottle caps utilizes materials that might otherwise be discarded. This approach results in unique, handmade decorations. +This step is optional, of course. By gifting your cute upcycled ornaments to friends or family, you can help to spread the important message that it`s not necessary to buy new things to decorate for Christmas. By making ornaments from bottle caps, you make great use of a precious material that would otherwise be burnt or end up in a land fill. And you create a hand made ornament that was crafted with love and care for our planet. Merry Christmas, Maria & Nike from IN MOCEAN +in-mocean.org ![InMocean-xmas-ornaments-17a.jpg](./InMocean-xmas-ornaments-17a.jpg) @@ -178,53 +175,4 @@ Maria & Nike from IN MOCEAN ![InMocean-xmas-ornaments-18.jpg](./InMocean-xmas-ornaments-18.jpg) ## Resources -### Tools - -- Fret saw ([manual](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fretsaw) or ~~[electrical](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jigsaw_\(power_tool\)~~)) -- Sharp knife or razor blade (~~[utility knife example](https://www.amazon.de/-/en/Stanley-10-099-Classic/dp/B001FWP58U)~~) -- Cookie cutters or paper stencil (~~[cookie cutter set example](https://www.amazon.de/-/en/Wilton-2304-2104-1040-Decorating-Christmas/dp/B0096SI0XW)~~) -- Drill ([hand drill example](https://www.amazon.de/-/en/Stanley-0-83-277-Hand-Drill/dp/B0001IWU0E)) - -### Hardware - -- Panini press with flat surface (~~[example](https://www.amazon.de/-/en/Tefal-Sandwich-Gourmet-Grill-Omelette/dp/B07CHLFM6H)~~) -- Silicone gloves (~~[heat-resistant gloves](https://www.amazon.de/-/en/Sistema-To-Go-Microwave-Containers-3-5liter-BPA/dp/B07PK4VDRH)~~) -- Baking paper (~~[parchment paper](https://www.amazon.de/-/en/dp/B00B1JGJJ0)~~) -- Eye protection (~~[safety goggles](https://www.amazon.de/-/en/Uvex-Protection-Super-Fog-Resistant-Transparent/dp/B003A7QCTK)~~) -- Respiratory mask (~~[dust mask](https://www.amazon.de/-/en/3M-8812-Particulate-Respirator-10-Pack/dp/B07FYV4CQ7)~~) - -*No software is required for this project.* -## References -Here are references categorized by type, as requested: - -## Articles - -- [Decorating Clear Plastic Ornaments for Christmas | Sweet Red Poppy](https://sweetredpoppy.com/christmasornaments/) -- [Bottle Cap Decorations - Incredibusy](https://incredibusy.com/bottle-cap-decorations/) -- [Two DIY Grinch Christmas Ornaments - Bullock's Buzz](https://bullocksbuzz.com/two-diy-grinch-christmas-ornaments/) - -## Books - -- [Make Plastic Fantastic: with over 25 Recycling Craft Projects](https://shop.shakeandco.com/book/9781838523916) -- [12 Low Waste Kids Crafting Books - Raising Global Kidizens](https://www.raisingglobalkidizens.com/low-waste-kids-crafting-books/) - -## Papers - -- [The Bending Strength and Hardness of Recycle Plastic Type HDPE (PDF)](https://www.ijeat.org/wp-content/uploads/papers/v9i2/B2968129219.pdf) - -## YouTube - -- [How to Make DIY Glitter Ornaments the Easy Way! - YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wD3UG35DUx4) -- [Easy Christmas Decor DIY: Transform Plastic Bottles into Decorations - YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cuctiNAt7zo) - -## Opensource Designs - -- [Bottle Cap Crafts : 11 Steps - Instructables](https://www.instructables.com/Bottle-Cap-Crafts/) - -## GitHub - -- [alpaca_eval/results/falcon-7b-instruct/model_outputs.json](https://github.com/tatsu-lab/alpaca_eval/blob/main/results/falcon-7b-instruct/model_outputs.json) - -## Misc. - -- [Bibliography | Nathan Wyand](https://nathanwyand.com/bibliography.html) \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/make-christmas-ornaments-from-upcycled-bottle-caps/config.json b/howtos/make-christmas-ornaments-from-upcycled-bottle-caps/config.json index ec326b19d..c0d07e6bd 100644 --- a/howtos/make-christmas-ornaments-from-upcycled-bottle-caps/config.json +++ b/howtos/make-christmas-ornaments-from-upcycled-bottle-caps/config.json @@ -34,7 +34,7 @@ "thisislawatts" ], "_modified": "2024-01-23T10:43:03.242Z", - "description": "Transform plastic waste into charming Christmas ornaments for decoration or gift embellishment.\n\n**Required Materials:**\n\n- Bottle caps\n- Panini press with a flat surface\n- Silicone gloves\n- Baking paper\n- Eye protection\n- Respiratory mask\n- Fret saw (manual or electrical)\n- Sharp knife or razor blade\n- Cookie cutters or paper stencil", + "description": "Turn your plastic waste into some cute Christmas Ornaments that you can use for decoration or to hang on your gifts. Let`s make Christmas less trashy!\n\nWhat you will need: \n\n-\tBottle caps\n-\tA panini press with a flat surface\n-\tSilicone gloves\n-\tBaking paper\n-\tEye protection\n-\tRespiration mask\n-\ta fret saw (manual or electrical)\n-\tsharp knife or razor blade\n-\tcookie cutters or paper stencil", "total_views": 334, "slug": "make-christmas-ornaments-from-upcycled-bottle-caps", "_createdBy": "in-mocean", @@ -61,7 +61,7 @@ "alt": "InMocean-xmas-ornaments-2a.jpg" } ], - "text": "### Bottle Cap Sorting Guide\n\n1. **Identify Plastic Type** \n Sort bottle caps by type: either HDPE or PP. Check for the recycling symbol inside the cap: '2' indicates HDPE and '5' indicates PP.\n\n2. **Physical Identification** \n If not labeled, determine plastic type by feel. HDPE caps are more flexible, PP caps are rigid. Typically, milk jug caps are HDPE; soda bottle caps may be PP. \n\n3. **Contamination Precaution** \n When uncertain about a cap's type, discard it to prevent possible contamination of the batch.", + "text": "First you need to sort your bottle caps to make sure they are all the same kind of plastic. You can use either a batch of HDPE or PP bottle caps. You can usually find the recycling category on the inside of the bottle cap: number 2 for HDPE and number 5 for PP.\n\nIf they are not labeled, you can also identify them by squeezing them a bit. You will notice that HDPE caps are a bit more flexible and PP are a bit more rigid. Caps from milk jugs are usually made from HDPE whereas some caps for soda bottle are sometimes PP. If in doubt, through it out! Otherwise, you risk to contaminate your batch.", "_animationKey": "unique1", "title": "Sort your bottle caps" }, @@ -94,11 +94,11 @@ } ], "title": "Wash your bottle caps", - "text": "### Cleaning and Preparing Caps\n\n1. **Wash Caps**: Soak caps in a sink and scrub with a brush, or for larger quantities, place them in a laundry bag and use a short cycle in the washing machine. Ensure the caps are thoroughly dried before proceeding.\n\n2. **Color Selection**: Decide on color combinations for your ornaments. While the example uses red, white, and green, choose based on your available colors and desired aesthetic." + "text": "Once sorted, you need to wash the caps that you want to use. You can either soak them in a sink and clean them manually with a brush. If you plan to recycle quite a lot of caps, it will be more efficient to put them into a clothes bag and throw them into the washing machine, choosing a short washing cycle. Let them dry completely and you are ready for the next step.\n\nAlso, think about what colors you want your ornaments to be. We chose red and white as base colors and added some green highlights to give the ornaments a Christmassy touch. But of course, it`s totally up to you what color you like your ornaments to be – and up to what colors you may have available." }, { "_animationKey": "unique3", - "text": "Plug in your panini press and let it heat up. Use a flat surface model for an even plastic sheet. Once hot, place a baking sheet on the press. Teflon sheets are recommended for durability.\n\nPlace bottle caps on the press; orientation doesn't matter. Cover them with a second baking sheet and close the press.\n\nTo aid the melting process, place a heavy object, such as bricks or books, on top of the press.", + "text": "Plug in your panini press and let it heat up. Make sure you are using one with a flat surface in order to get a flat plastic sheet for your ornaments. Once the panini press is hot, place a baking sheet on the press. We usually work with Teflon baking sheets because you can reuse them more often and they don`t tear apart.\n\nNow place your bottle caps on the panini press. It does not matter which way round you place them, they will melt just the same. Now cover the bottle caps with a second baking sheet and close the panini press.\n\nIt helps the melting process, if you place something heavy on top of the panini press. This can be some bricks or heavy books, whatever you may have available.\n", "title": "First layer of bottle caps", "images": [ { @@ -144,7 +144,7 @@ ], "_animationKey": "uniqueppoqt", "title": "Second or third layer", - "text": "After melting the bottle caps, you can add additional layers as in Step 2. The desired thickness of your ornaments will determine the number of layers. For a plastic sheet approximately 0.12 to 0.16 inches (3 to 4 mm) thick, melt 2 to 4 layers of bottle caps, depending on their size." + "text": "Once your bottle caps are melted, you can add one or two more layers on top of it in the same way you did in Step 2. This depends a bit on how thick you want your ornaments to be. We went for 3 to 4mm thickness for the plastic sheet. You will need to melt 2 to 4 layers of bottle caps for that, depending a bit on the size of your caps." }, { "images": [ @@ -163,12 +163,12 @@ ], "title": "Create a beautiful batik desig", "_animationKey": "uniquejltarj", - "text": "You should now have a layer of melted bottle caps. You may use the sheet immediately or create a batik design. To do so, wear silicone gloves, roll the warm plastic into a sausage shape, and twist it. Let your creativity guide you—pull, fold, and twist the plastic until the desired pattern is achieved. If the plastic hardens, simply reheat it in the press to make it moldable again.\n\nAt this point, you have a lump of plastic that needs to be melted again to form a flat sheet." + "text": "Now you should have a layer of melted bottle caps. You can either use the sheet right away or you can create a pretty batik design. To create that, put on some silicone gloves, roll the warm plastic into a sausage and then twist it around. This step is totally up to your own creativity. You can pull the warm plastic to stretch it, then fold it together and twist it again until you reach your desired design.\nIf the plastic hardens in the process, you can always re-heat it in the press to make it moldable again. \n\nNow you have a lump of plastic that needs to be melted again in order to make a flat sheet from it. \n" }, { "_animationKey": "uniquebsdz2o", "title": "Make a flat sheet", - "text": "Place the plastic piece inside the panini press and heat it until it softens. Once pliable, apply pressure to the press. To enhance stretching, consider gently sitting on the press, ensuring you avoid burns. \n\nAlternatively, use a rolling pin after removing the plastic, though maintaining contact with the heat source typically yields better results.", + "text": "Place the plastic lump inside the panini press and heat it up. Once the plastic starts to get soft, you can start applying pressure to the panini press again. We found that it helps to sit on top of it (careful not to burn yourself) and wiggle around a bit to make sure the plastic stretches out far enough.\n \nYou can also remove the plastic from the press and use a rolling pin, but we found that sitting on top of the press works much better because you are not removing the plastic from the heat source.\n", "images": [ { "updated": "2021-12-09T14:30:31.658Z", @@ -187,7 +187,7 @@ { "_animationKey": "uniquezm4ztn", "title": "Let it cool down", - "text": "Open the press periodically to check if the sheet has reached the desired thickness. Once satisfied, turn off the press and allow the sheet to cool with a weight on top to prevent deformation.", + "text": "Open the press every now and then to check if you have reached the desired thickness of the sheet. Once it`s to your liking, switch off the press and let the sheet cool down. Make sure to leave something heavy on top of the press, otherwise your plastic will deform in the cooling process.", "images": [ { "type": "image/jpeg", @@ -219,7 +219,7 @@ } ], "_animationKey": "unique7nj4ij", - "text": "Once the sheet has cooled, you can begin designing. Use a pen suitable for plastic to sketch your ornaments. Cookie cutters or paper stencils can serve as helpful guides.\n\nConsider the sawing process when selecting a design; intricate patterns are harder to cut. Starting with simple designs and gradually moving to complex ones is advisable.", + "text": "Once your sheet has cooled down, it`s time to get creative. Grab a pen that writes on plastic and draw your ornaments on the plastic sheet. We used cookie cutters for some of them but we also made some stencils from paper. \n\nWhen choosing your design, try to think about the sawing process: the more difficult or filigree your design is, the harder it will be to cut it out. Maybe start with something simple and then work your way towards more complicated designs.\n", "title": "Draw your ornaments onto sheet" }, { @@ -262,13 +262,13 @@ "alt": "InMocean-xmas-ornaments-13-2a.jpg" } ], - "text": "## Cutting Instructions\n\nFor this step, use a fretsaw, which can be manual or electric. An electric saw simplifies the process, but a manual saw is also effective with some additional patience.\n\nGuide the saw along the lines drawn on the plastic sheet to complete your Christmas ornament.", + "text": "Now it`s time to cut. For this step, you need a fretsaw. This can be a manual one or an electrical one, both work. We used an electrical one because it makes the process a little easier. But it`s also possible with a manual one, you just need a bit more patience.\nMove the saw along the lines that you drew on the plastic sheet and voilà: you have your Christmas Ornament.\n", "title": "Cut out the ornaments " }, { "title": "Clean the edges", "_animationKey": "unique4belkm8", - "text": "To clean the edges of your ornament, use a sharp knife or razor blade, as it is more effective than sandpaper. Ensure all small plastic pieces are collected during this process for reuse. They can be melted down again in future projects.", + "text": "Use a sharp knife or razor blade to clean the edges of your ornament. We found that this works better than using sanding paper and it also produces less micro plastic. \n\nRemember: You don`t want to create additional pollution with your crafting, so make sure you always collect all the little plastic pieces that get cut off during your creative process. The great thing: you can throw them back on the panini press for your next batch!\n", "images": [ { "contentType": "image/jpeg", @@ -312,7 +312,7 @@ "alt": "InMocean-xmas-ornaments-16a.jpg" } ], - "text": "To complete your ornament, drill a small hole at the top to accommodate your string, considering its thickness. \n\nWe used strings collected over the years. \n\nYour ornaments are now ready. Congratulations on your effort to reduce waste during Christmas.", + "text": "You are nearly ready now. Just drill a small hole into the top of your ornament so you can add a string. The size of the hole depends on the thickness of your string. \n\nWe re-used strings that we had collected over the past years. That way, your Christmas ornaments are 100% upcycled and zero new materials were needed to create them.\n\nThat`s it, your ornaments are ready. Well done and congratulations to help cut down on the trash that is produced during Christmas time.\n", "_animationKey": "unique7ejdv" }, { @@ -344,7 +344,7 @@ ], "title": "Gift the ornament to a friend ", "_animationKey": "unique420dm", - "text": "### Handmade Holiday Ornaments\n\nThis step is optional. By gifting your handmade ornaments to friends or family, you demonstrate that new items are not necessary for Christmas decorations. Creating ornaments from bottle caps utilizes materials that might otherwise be discarded. This approach results in unique, handmade decorations. \n\nMerry Christmas,\nMaria & Nike from IN MOCEAN" + "text": "This step is optional, of course. By gifting your cute upcycled ornaments to friends or family, you can help to spread the important message that it`s not necessary to buy new things to decorate for Christmas. By making ornaments from bottle caps, you make great use of a precious material that would otherwise be burnt or end up in a land fill. And you create a hand made ornament that was crafted with love and care for our planet. \n\nMerry Christmas,\nMaria & Nike from IN MOCEAN\nin-mocean.org" } ], "category": { @@ -516,9 +516,5 @@ "images": [] } }, - "content": "Transform plastic waste into charming Christmas ornaments for decoration or gift embellishment.\n\n**Required Materials:**\n\n- Bottle caps\n- Panini press with a flat surface\n- Silicone gloves\n- Baking paper\n- Eye protection\n- Respiratory mask\n- Fret saw (manual or electrical)\n- Sharp knife or razor blade\n- Cookie cutters or paper stencil\n\n\nUser Location: Luneburg, Germany\n\n### Bottle Cap Sorting Guide\n\n1. **Identify Plastic Type** \n Sort bottle caps by type: either HDPE or PP. Check for the recycling symbol inside the cap: '2' indicates HDPE and '5' indicates PP.\n\n2. **Physical Identification** \n If not labeled, determine plastic type by feel. HDPE caps are more flexible, PP caps are rigid. Typically, milk jug caps are HDPE; soda bottle caps may be PP. \n\n3. **Contamination Precaution** \n When uncertain about a cap's type, discard it to prevent possible contamination of the batch.\n\n### Cleaning and Preparing Caps\n\n1. **Wash Caps**: Soak caps in a sink and scrub with a brush, or for larger quantities, place them in a laundry bag and use a short cycle in the washing machine. Ensure the caps are thoroughly dried before proceeding.\n\n2. **Color Selection**: Decide on color combinations for your ornaments. While the example uses red, white, and green, choose based on your available colors and desired aesthetic.\n\nPlug in your panini press and let it heat up. Use a flat surface model for an even plastic sheet. Once hot, place a baking sheet on the press. Teflon sheets are recommended for durability.\n\nPlace bottle caps on the press; orientation doesn't matter. Cover them with a second baking sheet and close the press.\n\nTo aid the melting process, place a heavy object, such as bricks or books, on top of the press.\n\nAfter melting the bottle caps, you can add additional layers as in Step 2. The desired thickness of your ornaments will determine the number of layers. For a plastic sheet approximately 0.12 to 0.16 inches (3 to 4 mm) thick, melt 2 to 4 layers of bottle caps, depending on their size.\n\nYou should now have a layer of melted bottle caps. You may use the sheet immediately or create a batik design. To do so, wear silicone gloves, roll the warm plastic into a sausage shape, and twist it. Let your creativity guide you—pull, fold, and twist the plastic until the desired pattern is achieved. If the plastic hardens, simply reheat it in the press to make it moldable again.\n\nAt this point, you have a lump of plastic that needs to be melted again to form a flat sheet.\n\nPlace the plastic piece inside the panini press and heat it until it softens. Once pliable, apply pressure to the press. To enhance stretching, consider gently sitting on the press, ensuring you avoid burns. \n\nAlternatively, use a rolling pin after removing the plastic, though maintaining contact with the heat source typically yields better results.\n\nOpen the press periodically to check if the sheet has reached the desired thickness. Once satisfied, turn off the press and allow the sheet to cool with a weight on top to prevent deformation.\n\nOnce the sheet has cooled, you can begin designing. Use a pen suitable for plastic to sketch your ornaments. Cookie cutters or paper stencils can serve as helpful guides.\n\nConsider the sawing process when selecting a design; intricate patterns are harder to cut. Starting with simple designs and gradually moving to complex ones is advisable.\n\n## Cutting Instructions\n\nFor this step, use a fretsaw, which can be manual or electric. An electric saw simplifies the process, but a manual saw is also effective with some additional patience.\n\nGuide the saw along the lines drawn on the plastic sheet to complete your Christmas ornament.\n\nTo clean the edges of your ornament, use a sharp knife or razor blade, as it is more effective than sandpaper. Ensure all small plastic pieces are collected during this process for reuse. They can be melted down again in future projects.\n\nTo complete your ornament, drill a small hole at the top to accommodate your string, considering its thickness. \n\nWe used strings collected over the years. \n\nYour ornaments are now ready. Congratulations on your effort to reduce waste during Christmas.\n\n### Handmade Holiday Ornaments\n\nThis step is optional. By gifting your handmade ornaments to friends or family, you demonstrate that new items are not necessary for Christmas decorations. Creating ornaments from bottle caps utilizes materials that might otherwise be discarded. This approach results in unique, handmade decorations. \n\nMerry Christmas,\nMaria & Nike from IN MOCEAN", - "keywords": "plastic waste recycling, Christmas ornaments DIY, bottle cap crafts, homemade holiday decorations, upcycled gift ideas, sustainable Christmas decor, eco-friendly crafts, repurposing plastic, handmade ornaments tutorial, recycling bottle caps", - "resources": "### Tools\n\n- Fret saw ([manual](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fretsaw) or ~~[electrical](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jigsaw_\\(power_tool\\)~~))\n- Sharp knife or razor blade (~~[utility knife example](https://www.amazon.de/-/en/Stanley-10-099-Classic/dp/B001FWP58U)~~)\n- Cookie cutters or paper stencil (~~[cookie cutter set example](https://www.amazon.de/-/en/Wilton-2304-2104-1040-Decorating-Christmas/dp/B0096SI0XW)~~)\n- Drill ([hand drill example](https://www.amazon.de/-/en/Stanley-0-83-277-Hand-Drill/dp/B0001IWU0E))\n\n### Hardware\n\n- Panini press with flat surface (~~[example](https://www.amazon.de/-/en/Tefal-Sandwich-Gourmet-Grill-Omelette/dp/B07CHLFM6H)~~)\n- Silicone gloves (~~[heat-resistant gloves](https://www.amazon.de/-/en/Sistema-To-Go-Microwave-Containers-3-5liter-BPA/dp/B07PK4VDRH)~~)\n- Baking paper (~~[parchment paper](https://www.amazon.de/-/en/dp/B00B1JGJJ0)~~)\n- Eye protection (~~[safety goggles](https://www.amazon.de/-/en/Uvex-Protection-Super-Fog-Resistant-Transparent/dp/B003A7QCTK)~~)\n- Respiratory mask (~~[dust mask](https://www.amazon.de/-/en/3M-8812-Particulate-Respirator-10-Pack/dp/B07FYV4CQ7)~~)\n\n*No software is required for this project.*", - "references": "Here are references categorized by type, as requested:\n\n## Articles\n\n- [Decorating Clear Plastic Ornaments for Christmas | Sweet Red Poppy](https://sweetredpoppy.com/christmasornaments/)\n- [Bottle Cap Decorations - Incredibusy](https://incredibusy.com/bottle-cap-decorations/)\n- [Two DIY Grinch Christmas Ornaments - Bullock's Buzz](https://bullocksbuzz.com/two-diy-grinch-christmas-ornaments/)\n\n## Books\n\n- [Make Plastic Fantastic: with over 25 Recycling Craft Projects](https://shop.shakeandco.com/book/9781838523916)\n- [12 Low Waste Kids Crafting Books - Raising Global Kidizens](https://www.raisingglobalkidizens.com/low-waste-kids-crafting-books/)\n\n## Papers\n\n- [The Bending Strength and Hardness of Recycle Plastic Type HDPE (PDF)](https://www.ijeat.org/wp-content/uploads/papers/v9i2/B2968129219.pdf)\n\n## YouTube\n\n- [How to Make DIY Glitter Ornaments the Easy Way! - YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wD3UG35DUx4)\n- [Easy Christmas Decor DIY: Transform Plastic Bottles into Decorations - YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cuctiNAt7zo)\n\n## Opensource Designs\n\n- [Bottle Cap Crafts : 11 Steps - Instructables](https://www.instructables.com/Bottle-Cap-Crafts/)\n\n## GitHub\n\n- [alpaca_eval/results/falcon-7b-instruct/model_outputs.json](https://github.com/tatsu-lab/alpaca_eval/blob/main/results/falcon-7b-instruct/model_outputs.json)\n\n## Misc.\n\n- [Bibliography | Nathan Wyand](https://nathanwyand.com/bibliography.html)", - "brief": "Turn plastic waste into unique Christmas ornaments. Learn sorting, cleaning, and crafting techniques to make charming decorations from bottle caps at home." + "content": "Turn your plastic waste into some cute Christmas Ornaments that you can use for decoration or to hang on your gifts. Let`s make Christmas less trashy!\n\nWhat you will need: \n\n-\tBottle caps\n-\tA panini press with a flat surface\n-\tSilicone gloves\n-\tBaking paper\n-\tEye protection\n-\tRespiration mask\n-\ta fret saw (manual or electrical)\n-\tsharp knife or razor blade\n-\tcookie cutters or paper stencil\n\n\nUser Location: Luneburg, Germany\n\nFirst you need to sort your bottle caps to make sure they are all the same kind of plastic. You can use either a batch of HDPE or PP bottle caps. You can usually find the recycling category on the inside of the bottle cap: number 2 for HDPE and number 5 for PP.\n\nIf they are not labeled, you can also identify them by squeezing them a bit. You will notice that HDPE caps are a bit more flexible and PP are a bit more rigid. Caps from milk jugs are usually made from HDPE whereas some caps for soda bottle are sometimes PP. If in doubt, through it out! Otherwise, you risk to contaminate your batch.\n\nOnce sorted, you need to wash the caps that you want to use. You can either soak them in a sink and clean them manually with a brush. If you plan to recycle quite a lot of caps, it will be more efficient to put them into a clothes bag and throw them into the washing machine, choosing a short washing cycle. Let them dry completely and you are ready for the next step.\n\nAlso, think about what colors you want your ornaments to be. We chose red and white as base colors and added some green highlights to give the ornaments a Christmassy touch. But of course, it`s totally up to you what color you like your ornaments to be – and up to what colors you may have available.\n\nPlug in your panini press and let it heat up. Make sure you are using one with a flat surface in order to get a flat plastic sheet for your ornaments. Once the panini press is hot, place a baking sheet on the press. We usually work with Teflon baking sheets because you can reuse them more often and they don`t tear apart.\n\nNow place your bottle caps on the panini press. It does not matter which way round you place them, they will melt just the same. Now cover the bottle caps with a second baking sheet and close the panini press.\n\nIt helps the melting process, if you place something heavy on top of the panini press. This can be some bricks or heavy books, whatever you may have available.\n\n\nOnce your bottle caps are melted, you can add one or two more layers on top of it in the same way you did in Step 2. This depends a bit on how thick you want your ornaments to be. We went for 3 to 4mm thickness for the plastic sheet. You will need to melt 2 to 4 layers of bottle caps for that, depending a bit on the size of your caps.\n\nNow you should have a layer of melted bottle caps. You can either use the sheet right away or you can create a pretty batik design. To create that, put on some silicone gloves, roll the warm plastic into a sausage and then twist it around. This step is totally up to your own creativity. You can pull the warm plastic to stretch it, then fold it together and twist it again until you reach your desired design.\nIf the plastic hardens in the process, you can always re-heat it in the press to make it moldable again. \n\nNow you have a lump of plastic that needs to be melted again in order to make a flat sheet from it. \n\n\nPlace the plastic lump inside the panini press and heat it up. Once the plastic starts to get soft, you can start applying pressure to the panini press again. We found that it helps to sit on top of it (careful not to burn yourself) and wiggle around a bit to make sure the plastic stretches out far enough.\n \nYou can also remove the plastic from the press and use a rolling pin, but we found that sitting on top of the press works much better because you are not removing the plastic from the heat source.\n\n\nOpen the press every now and then to check if you have reached the desired thickness of the sheet. Once it`s to your liking, switch off the press and let the sheet cool down. Make sure to leave something heavy on top of the press, otherwise your plastic will deform in the cooling process.\n\nOnce your sheet has cooled down, it`s time to get creative. Grab a pen that writes on plastic and draw your ornaments on the plastic sheet. We used cookie cutters for some of them but we also made some stencils from paper. \n\nWhen choosing your design, try to think about the sawing process: the more difficult or filigree your design is, the harder it will be to cut it out. Maybe start with something simple and then work your way towards more complicated designs.\n\n\nNow it`s time to cut. For this step, you need a fretsaw. This can be a manual one or an electrical one, both work. We used an electrical one because it makes the process a little easier. But it`s also possible with a manual one, you just need a bit more patience.\nMove the saw along the lines that you drew on the plastic sheet and voilà: you have your Christmas Ornament.\n\n\nUse a sharp knife or razor blade to clean the edges of your ornament. We found that this works better than using sanding paper and it also produces less micro plastic. \n\nRemember: You don`t want to create additional pollution with your crafting, so make sure you always collect all the little plastic pieces that get cut off during your creative process. The great thing: you can throw them back on the panini press for your next batch!\n\n\nYou are nearly ready now. Just drill a small hole into the top of your ornament so you can add a string. The size of the hole depends on the thickness of your string. \n\nWe re-used strings that we had collected over the past years. That way, your Christmas ornaments are 100% upcycled and zero new materials were needed to create them.\n\nThat`s it, your ornaments are ready. Well done and congratulations to help cut down on the trash that is produced during Christmas time.\n\n\nThis step is optional, of course. By gifting your cute upcycled ornaments to friends or family, you can help to spread the important message that it`s not necessary to buy new things to decorate for Christmas. By making ornaments from bottle caps, you make great use of a precious material that would otherwise be burnt or end up in a land fill. And you create a hand made ornament that was crafted with love and care for our planet. \n\nMerry Christmas,\nMaria & Nike from IN MOCEAN\nin-mocean.org" } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/make-clock-from-recycled-plastic/README.md b/howtos/make-clock-from-recycled-plastic/README.md index a4d56552f..75f361920 100644 --- a/howtos/make-clock-from-recycled-plastic/README.md +++ b/howtos/make-clock-from-recycled-plastic/README.md @@ -1,57 +1,78 @@ --- title: Make clock from recycled plastic slug: make-clock-from-recycled-plastic -description: Creating a clock involves using approximately 300 grams (10.58 ounces) of material and can be completed in under two hours. A creatively designed clock makes a thoughtful gift. The process requires an electric oven, a mini press, and a simple compression mold. The clock measures 30 centimeters (11.81 inches) in diameter and 5 millimeters (0.2 inches) in thickness. The material cost is approximately 6 EUR (6.50 USD) per clock. +description: Making clock is not difficult and you are able to recycle about 300g per clock in less than 2 hours. With creative design can be clock nice present for your friends or family. These hand made products can be done with electric oven, mini press and a simple compression mould. Clock diameter is 30 cm with thickness of 5mm. Material cost is about 6 EUR/ clock. tags: ["mould","product","compression"] category: Products difficulty: Easy time: < 5 hours -keywords: clock making, DIY clock, clock mold, 3D files for clock, HDPE clock, PP clock, PLA clock, clock mechanism, laser-cut molds, DIY project Czechia +keywords: location: Liberec, Czechia --- # Make clock from recycled plastic ![Make clock from recycled plastic](Edice_-_Monet_zlute_rucicky.jpg) -Creating a clock involves using approximately 300 grams (10.58 ounces) of material and can be completed in under two hours. A creatively designed clock makes a thoughtful gift. The process requires an electric oven, a mini press, and a simple compression mold. The clock measures 30 centimeters (11.81 inches) in diameter and 5 millimeters (0.2 inches) in thickness. The material cost is approximately 6 EUR (6.50 USD) per clock. +Making clock is not difficult and you are able to recycle about 300g per clock in less than 2 hours. With creative design can be clock nice present for your friends or family. These hand made products can be done with electric oven, mini press and a simple compression mould. Clock diameter is 30 cm with thickness of 5mm. Material cost is about 6 EUR/ clock. User Location: Liberec, Czechia ## Steps ### Step 1: Prepare your mould -You can acquire laser-cut molds through various online platforms: +You can get laser cutted mould on [filtered] bazar: -Transporting molds can be expensive, especially outside Europe. To assist, I offer 3D files in STP format, plans in PDF, and DXF format. If you have access to a laser cutter and want only the files, please contact me to discuss further. -Release of all models is currently withheld due to funding needs for development. - -Let's begin... +I understand that transporting mould can be costly for countries, especially outside Europe. +Therefore, I can provide you with 3D files in STP format, plans as PDF + plans in DXF format. +If you have access to a laser cutting machine and are only interested in files, send me a message and we can discuss the possibilities +Why don't I release all the models for free now? Because I need money for further development :) +And now let's start .. ### Step 2: Prepare material + mould -### Testing and Preparation for Mold Production +I have already tested HDPE, PP or PLA with good results. +You can play with different colours and bottle cap design. :) +You need between 270 - 350 g / clock (depends on material density) -I have tested HDPE, PP, and PLA with satisfactory outcomes. Experimenting with different colors and bottle cap designs is possible. You will require 270 - 350 grams (approximately 9.5 - 12.3 ounces) per clock, depending on material density. +Before testing new material type, make a note/ picture how many material did you use. It will help you with future production. I use technological sheet uploaded as PDF/ Excel. -Before testing a new material, document the amount used with notes or photographs, which will aid in future production. I recommend using a technological sheet, available in PDF or Excel format, for record-keeping. - -Ensure the mold is free from impurities, dust, or residual plastic from previous productions. Use smooth sandpaper for cleaning. To prevent sticking, apply mold release or oil. Ensure the oil’s smoke point is not exceeded: consult a reliable source for smoke points of cooking oils. Use oil with a smoke point above 230 degrees Celsius (446 degrees Fahrenheit). +Clean mould from impurities, dust or remaining plastic particles from previous production. (I use smooth sand paper) +To avoid sticking use mould release or oil. +Make sure your oil will not get to its smoke point: +en.wikipedia.org: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Template:Smoke_point_of_cooking_oils +I recommend oil with smoke point above 230 deg. Celsius ![materiál.jpg](./material.jpg) ### Step 3: Baking + pressing -I use an IKEA Görlig electric oven. Set the temperature based on the material. For HDPE and PP, use 225°C (437°F). Place the mold in the oven for 50 minutes and set a timer. +I use IKEA Görlig electric oven. +Set up temperature according to your material type. +For HDPE and PP I use temperature 225 deg Celsius. +I put mould in the oven for 50 min. +Set up timer. -Caution: Wear heat-resistant gloves when handling the mold from the oven. -After baking, press the mold. Allow 20-30 minutes for cooling. Opening the mold earlier may cause deformation. +Attention - use heat resistent gloves when you operate with mould from oven :) + +After baking process, press mould. +Cooling process take 20 - 30 min. +If you open mould earlier, there is risk of deformation. ![flow.jpg](./flow.jpg) ### Step 4: Postprocessing -Cut the edges using a knife and sand the surface as needed. Drill a hole in the center to accommodate your clock mechanism. A list of necessary components and tools for clock assembly is provided in the supporting material. I source them from a company in the Czech Republic. The back of the clock features a small square frame designed to fit the clock mechanism. The mold can be modified as desired, but it is advisable to secure the clock mechanism to prevent rotation. Avoid sanding surfaces with numbered plates, as the area around the numbers can be challenging to sand. Clock hands are available in various colors, allowing for customization. +Cut out edges with knife, +You can sand surface. +Drill hole in the middle according to size of your clock mechanism. +List of components and tools for clock assembly that I use - available in supporting material. +I buy them from Czech company. +On back side of clock there is small square frame which fits to the clock mechanism I use. +You can modify mould as you want. I prefer to fix position of clock mechanism to prevent its rotation. +I do not recommend sanding of surface if you use plate with numbers (area around numbers can be difficult to sand). +Nice advantage is different colours of clock hands, you can combine different colours. :) + ![Minutové a hodinové ručičky.jpg](./Minutove_a_hodinove_rucicky.jpg) @@ -64,9 +85,9 @@ Cut the edges using a knife and sand the surface as needed. Drill a hole in the ### Step 5: Follow Plastmakers -For more open-source content, please consider engaging through sharing, subscribing, liking, following, or commenting. +To provide more open source content, I will be happy for share, subscribe, like, follow or comment. <3 -More information is available here: [linktr.ee/plastmakers](https://linktr.ee/plastmakers) +More information: linktr.ee: linktr.ee/plastmakers Thank you. @@ -82,58 +103,4 @@ Tom ![víčkový mix.jpg](./vickovy_mix.jpg) ## Resources -### Tools - -- Sandpaper (smooth grit) -- Knife for edge cutting -- Drill for center hole (clock mechanism) -- Heat-resistant gloves - -### Hardware - -- Electric oven (IKEA Görlig recommended) [1] -- Mini press -- Compression mold (laser-cut) [1] -- Laser cutter (for custom molds) [1] - -### Software - -- 3D mold files (STP format) [1] -- Plan documents (PDF/DXF formats) [1] - -### Materials - -- 270–350g plastic (HDPE, PP, PLA) [1] -- Cooking oil (smoke point >230°C/446°F) [1] -- Clock mechanism (sourced locally in Czechia) [1] -- Colored clock hands [1] -- Mold release agent [1] - -### Additional Resources - -- Technological record sheet (PDF/Excel) [1] -- Component sourcing contact (Czech company) [1] -- Request files via contact: [linktr.ee/plastmakers](https://linktr.ee/plastmakers) [1] -## References -## Articles - -- [Resin Clock Mold - Resin Crafts Blog](https://resincraftsblog.com/resin-clock-mold/) -- [Make your own Clock with Clock Mechanism and Silk Clay - CChobby](https://www.cchobby.com/make-your-own-clock-with-clock-mechanism-and-silk-clay) -- ~~[How to Make Your Own Clock: Step-by-Step DIY Clock Tutorial - 2025](https://www.masterclass.com/articles/how-to-make-a-clock)~~ - -## Books - -- [Plastic injection molding e-book | Nelson Miller Group](https://nelsonmillergroup.com/resources/plastic-injection-molding-e-book/) -- [Books for building and repairing clocks and telegraph keys.](https://wrsmithclocks.com/books/) - -## Papers - -- [Fabricating Photopolymer Objects by Mold 3D Printing and UV Curing [PDF]](https://aidam.mpi-inf.mpg.de/data/pdfs/ffpompuc.pdf) - -## YouTube - -- [Wet Compression Molding – Paper Honeycomb in the 3rd dimension](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QfUw8W6BUlM) - -## Open-source Designs - -- [Open-source Arduino Clock - Rob Faludi](https://www.faludi.com/examples/open-source-arduino-clock/) \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/make-clock-from-recycled-plastic/config.json b/howtos/make-clock-from-recycled-plastic/config.json index 4813bfcdf..32778df57 100644 --- a/howtos/make-clock-from-recycled-plastic/config.json +++ b/howtos/make-clock-from-recycled-plastic/config.json @@ -3,7 +3,7 @@ "fileLink": "", "_deleted": false, "time": "< 5 hours", - "description": "Creating a clock involves using approximately 300 grams (10.58 ounces) of material and can be completed in under two hours. A creatively designed clock makes a thoughtful gift. The process requires an electric oven, a mini press, and a simple compression mold. The clock measures 30 centimeters (11.81 inches) in diameter and 5 millimeters (0.2 inches) in thickness. The material cost is approximately 6 EUR (6.50 USD) per clock.", + "description": "Making clock is not difficult and you are able to recycle about 300g per clock in less than 2 hours. With creative design can be clock nice present for your friends or family. These hand made products can be done with electric oven, mini press and a simple compression mould. Clock diameter is 30 cm with thickness of 5mm. Material cost is about 6 EUR/ clock.", "title": "Make clock from recycled plastic", "_contentModifiedTimestamp": "2023-06-14T11:02:18.990Z", "votedUsefulBy": [ @@ -50,7 +50,7 @@ "steps": [ { "videoUrl": "https://youtu.be/0os1UJzX3Ns", - "text": "You can acquire laser-cut molds through various online platforms:\n\nTransporting molds can be expensive, especially outside Europe. To assist, I offer 3D files in STP format, plans in PDF, and DXF format. If you have access to a laser cutter and want only the files, please contact me to discuss further.\n\nRelease of all models is currently withheld due to funding needs for development.\n\nLet's begin...", + "text": "You can get laser cutted mould on [filtered] bazar: \n\n\nI understand that transporting mould can be costly for countries, especially outside Europe.\nTherefore, I can provide you with 3D files in STP format, plans as PDF + plans in DXF format.\nIf you have access to a laser cutting machine and are only interested in files, send me a message and we can discuss the possibilities\nWhy don't I release all the models for free now? Because I need money for further development :)\nAnd now let's start ..", "_animationKey": "unique1", "title": "Prepare your mould", "images": [] @@ -72,7 +72,7 @@ "alt": "materiál.jpg" } ], - "text": "### Testing and Preparation for Mold Production\n\nI have tested HDPE, PP, and PLA with satisfactory outcomes. Experimenting with different colors and bottle cap designs is possible. You will require 270 - 350 grams (approximately 9.5 - 12.3 ounces) per clock, depending on material density.\n\nBefore testing a new material, document the amount used with notes or photographs, which will aid in future production. I recommend using a technological sheet, available in PDF or Excel format, for record-keeping.\n\nEnsure the mold is free from impurities, dust, or residual plastic from previous productions. Use smooth sandpaper for cleaning. To prevent sticking, apply mold release or oil. Ensure the oil’s smoke point is not exceeded: consult a reliable source for smoke points of cooking oils. Use oil with a smoke point above 230 degrees Celsius (446 degrees Fahrenheit)." + "text": "I have already tested HDPE, PP or PLA with good results.\nYou can play with different colours and bottle cap design. :)\nYou need between 270 - 350 g / clock (depends on material density)\n\nBefore testing new material type, make a note/ picture how many material did you use. It will help you with future production. I use technological sheet uploaded as PDF/ Excel.\n\nClean mould from impurities, dust or remaining plastic particles from previous production. (I use smooth sand paper)\nTo avoid sticking use mould release or oil.\nMake sure your oil will not get to its smoke point:\nen.wikipedia.org: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Template:Smoke_point_of_cooking_oils\nI recommend oil with smoke point above 230 deg. Celsius" }, { "images": [ @@ -91,7 +91,7 @@ ], "_animationKey": "unique3", "title": "Baking + pressing", - "text": "I use an IKEA Görlig electric oven. Set the temperature based on the material. For HDPE and PP, use 225°C (437°F). Place the mold in the oven for 50 minutes and set a timer.\n\nCaution: Wear heat-resistant gloves when handling the mold from the oven.\n\nAfter baking, press the mold. Allow 20-30 minutes for cooling. Opening the mold earlier may cause deformation." + "text": "I use IKEA Görlig electric oven.\nSet up temperature according to your material type.\nFor HDPE and PP I use temperature 225 deg Celsius.\nI put mould in the oven for 50 min.\nSet up timer.\n\n\nAttention - use heat resistent gloves when you operate with mould from oven :)\n\nAfter baking process, press mould.\nCooling process take 20 - 30 min.\nIf you open mould earlier, there is risk of deformation." }, { "images": [ @@ -134,12 +134,12 @@ ], "_animationKey": "uniqueidmt2", "title": "Postprocessing", - "text": "Cut the edges using a knife and sand the surface as needed. Drill a hole in the center to accommodate your clock mechanism. A list of necessary components and tools for clock assembly is provided in the supporting material. I source them from a company in the Czech Republic. The back of the clock features a small square frame designed to fit the clock mechanism. The mold can be modified as desired, but it is advisable to secure the clock mechanism to prevent rotation. Avoid sanding surfaces with numbered plates, as the area around the numbers can be challenging to sand. Clock hands are available in various colors, allowing for customization." + "text": "Cut out edges with knife,\nYou can sand surface.\nDrill hole in the middle according to size of your clock mechanism.\nList of components and tools for clock assembly that I use - available in supporting material. \nI buy them from Czech company. \nOn back side of clock there is small square frame which fits to the clock mechanism I use. \nYou can modify mould as you want. I prefer to fix position of clock mechanism to prevent its rotation.\nI do not recommend sanding of surface if you use plate with numbers (area around numbers can be difficult to sand).\nNice advantage is different colours of clock hands, you can combine different colours. :)\n" }, { "title": "Follow Plastmakers", "_animationKey": "uniqueezuqa", - "text": "For more open-source content, please consider engaging through sharing, subscribing, liking, following, or commenting.\n\nMore information is available here: [linktr.ee/plastmakers](https://linktr.ee/plastmakers)\n\nThank you.\n\nTom", + "text": "To provide more open source content, I will be happy for share, subscribe, like, follow or comment. <3\n\nMore information: linktr.ee: linktr.ee/plastmakers\n\nThank you.\n\nTom", "images": [ { "fullPath": "uploads/howtos/XQmkeifl91M1Dh8WtBlV/černé s oranžovými ručičkami.jpg", @@ -339,9 +339,5 @@ "images": [] } }, - "content": "Creating a clock involves using approximately 300 grams (10.58 ounces) of material and can be completed in under two hours. A creatively designed clock makes a thoughtful gift. The process requires an electric oven, a mini press, and a simple compression mold. The clock measures 30 centimeters (11.81 inches) in diameter and 5 millimeters (0.2 inches) in thickness. The material cost is approximately 6 EUR (6.50 USD) per clock.\n\n\nUser Location: Liberec, Czechia\n\nYou can acquire laser-cut molds through various online platforms:\n\nTransporting molds can be expensive, especially outside Europe. To assist, I offer 3D files in STP format, plans in PDF, and DXF format. If you have access to a laser cutter and want only the files, please contact me to discuss further.\n\nRelease of all models is currently withheld due to funding needs for development.\n\nLet's begin...\n\n### Testing and Preparation for Mold Production\n\nI have tested HDPE, PP, and PLA with satisfactory outcomes. Experimenting with different colors and bottle cap designs is possible. You will require 270 - 350 grams (approximately 9.5 - 12.3 ounces) per clock, depending on material density.\n\nBefore testing a new material, document the amount used with notes or photographs, which will aid in future production. I recommend using a technological sheet, available in PDF or Excel format, for record-keeping.\n\nEnsure the mold is free from impurities, dust, or residual plastic from previous productions. Use smooth sandpaper for cleaning. To prevent sticking, apply mold release or oil. Ensure the oil’s smoke point is not exceeded: consult a reliable source for smoke points of cooking oils. Use oil with a smoke point above 230 degrees Celsius (446 degrees Fahrenheit).\n\nI use an IKEA Görlig electric oven. Set the temperature based on the material. For HDPE and PP, use 225°C (437°F). Place the mold in the oven for 50 minutes and set a timer.\n\nCaution: Wear heat-resistant gloves when handling the mold from the oven.\n\nAfter baking, press the mold. Allow 20-30 minutes for cooling. Opening the mold earlier may cause deformation.\n\nCut the edges using a knife and sand the surface as needed. Drill a hole in the center to accommodate your clock mechanism. A list of necessary components and tools for clock assembly is provided in the supporting material. I source them from a company in the Czech Republic. The back of the clock features a small square frame designed to fit the clock mechanism. The mold can be modified as desired, but it is advisable to secure the clock mechanism to prevent rotation. Avoid sanding surfaces with numbered plates, as the area around the numbers can be challenging to sand. Clock hands are available in various colors, allowing for customization.\n\nFor more open-source content, please consider engaging through sharing, subscribing, liking, following, or commenting.\n\nMore information is available here: [linktr.ee/plastmakers](https://linktr.ee/plastmakers)\n\nThank you.\n\nTom", - "keywords": "clock making, DIY clock, clock mold, 3D files for clock, HDPE clock, PP clock, PLA clock, clock mechanism, laser-cut molds, DIY project Czechia", - "resources": "### Tools\n\n- Sandpaper (smooth grit)\n- Knife for edge cutting\n- Drill for center hole (clock mechanism)\n- Heat-resistant gloves\n\n### Hardware\n\n- Electric oven (IKEA Görlig recommended) [1]\n- Mini press\n- Compression mold (laser-cut) [1]\n- Laser cutter (for custom molds) [1]\n\n### Software\n\n- 3D mold files (STP format) [1]\n- Plan documents (PDF/DXF formats) [1]\n\n### Materials\n\n- 270–350g plastic (HDPE, PP, PLA) [1]\n- Cooking oil (smoke point >230°C/446°F) [1]\n- Clock mechanism (sourced locally in Czechia) [1]\n- Colored clock hands [1]\n- Mold release agent [1]\n\n### Additional Resources\n\n- Technological record sheet (PDF/Excel) [1]\n- Component sourcing contact (Czech company) [1]\n- Request files via contact: [linktr.ee/plastmakers](https://linktr.ee/plastmakers) [1]", - "references": "## Articles\n\n- [Resin Clock Mold - Resin Crafts Blog](https://resincraftsblog.com/resin-clock-mold/)\n- [Make your own Clock with Clock Mechanism and Silk Clay - CChobby](https://www.cchobby.com/make-your-own-clock-with-clock-mechanism-and-silk-clay)\n- ~~[How to Make Your Own Clock: Step-by-Step DIY Clock Tutorial - 2025](https://www.masterclass.com/articles/how-to-make-a-clock)~~\n\n## Books\n\n- [Plastic injection molding e-book | Nelson Miller Group](https://nelsonmillergroup.com/resources/plastic-injection-molding-e-book/)\n- [Books for building and repairing clocks and telegraph keys.](https://wrsmithclocks.com/books/)\n\n## Papers\n\n- [Fabricating Photopolymer Objects by Mold 3D Printing and UV Curing [PDF]](https://aidam.mpi-inf.mpg.de/data/pdfs/ffpompuc.pdf)\n\n## YouTube\n\n- [Wet Compression Molding – Paper Honeycomb in the 3rd dimension](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QfUw8W6BUlM)\n\n## Open-source Designs\n\n- [Open-source Arduino Clock - Rob Faludi](https://www.faludi.com/examples/open-source-arduino-clock/)", - "brief": "Create a unique 30cm clock in under 2 hours with low-cost materials. Ideal as a thoughtful gift, using an electric oven, minimal tools, and customization options." + "content": "Making clock is not difficult and you are able to recycle about 300g per clock in less than 2 hours. With creative design can be clock nice present for your friends or family. These hand made products can be done with electric oven, mini press and a simple compression mould. Clock diameter is 30 cm with thickness of 5mm. Material cost is about 6 EUR/ clock.\n\n\nUser Location: Liberec, Czechia\n\nYou can get laser cutted mould on [filtered] bazar: \n\n\nI understand that transporting mould can be costly for countries, especially outside Europe.\nTherefore, I can provide you with 3D files in STP format, plans as PDF + plans in DXF format.\nIf you have access to a laser cutting machine and are only interested in files, send me a message and we can discuss the possibilities\nWhy don't I release all the models for free now? Because I need money for further development :)\nAnd now let's start ..\n\nI have already tested HDPE, PP or PLA with good results.\nYou can play with different colours and bottle cap design. :)\nYou need between 270 - 350 g / clock (depends on material density)\n\nBefore testing new material type, make a note/ picture how many material did you use. It will help you with future production. I use technological sheet uploaded as PDF/ Excel.\n\nClean mould from impurities, dust or remaining plastic particles from previous production. (I use smooth sand paper)\nTo avoid sticking use mould release or oil.\nMake sure your oil will not get to its smoke point:\nen.wikipedia.org: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Template:Smoke_point_of_cooking_oils\nI recommend oil with smoke point above 230 deg. Celsius\n\nI use IKEA Görlig electric oven.\nSet up temperature according to your material type.\nFor HDPE and PP I use temperature 225 deg Celsius.\nI put mould in the oven for 50 min.\nSet up timer.\n\n\nAttention - use heat resistent gloves when you operate with mould from oven :)\n\nAfter baking process, press mould.\nCooling process take 20 - 30 min.\nIf you open mould earlier, there is risk of deformation.\n\nCut out edges with knife,\nYou can sand surface.\nDrill hole in the middle according to size of your clock mechanism.\nList of components and tools for clock assembly that I use - available in supporting material. \nI buy them from Czech company. \nOn back side of clock there is small square frame which fits to the clock mechanism I use. \nYou can modify mould as you want. I prefer to fix position of clock mechanism to prevent its rotation.\nI do not recommend sanding of surface if you use plate with numbers (area around numbers can be difficult to sand).\nNice advantage is different colours of clock hands, you can combine different colours. :)\n\n\nTo provide more open source content, I will be happy for share, subscribe, like, follow or comment. <3\n\nMore information: linktr.ee: linktr.ee/plastmakers\n\nThank you.\n\nTom" } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/make-great-beam-patterns/README.md b/howtos/make-great-beam-patterns/README.md index 74370d104..b9745b1cd 100644 --- a/howtos/make-great-beam-patterns/README.md +++ b/howtos/make-great-beam-patterns/README.md @@ -1,37 +1,31 @@ --- title: Make great beam patterns! slug: make-great-beam-patterns -description: Frequently, individuals inquire about achieving attractive patterns in beams, and interestingly, no special technical tricks are involved. The method aligns with standard practices, using a basic steel pipe mold and relying on the extruder's function. Here's how you can achieve similar results. +description: People ask me occasionally how to get beautiful patterns in the beams and the funny thing is that zero technical tricks are used to make that happen! The used technique for making beams is exactly the way Precious Plastic does it, using a simple steel pipe as a mold and let the extruder do the work :-) +Here is what you can try to get the same results! tags: ["extrusion","HDPE","PP","LDPE"] category: Guides difficulty: Easy time: < 1 hour -keywords: extrusion process, steel pipe mold, pattern making, polypropylene vs polyethylene, color mixing techniques, extruder function, layer creation, cooling methods, material addition, plastic flow analysis +keywords: location: --- # Make great beam patterns! ![Make great beam patterns!](DSC_0675_copy.jpg) -Frequently, individuals inquire about achieving attractive patterns in beams, and interestingly, no special technical tricks are involved. The method aligns with standard practices, using a basic steel pipe mold and relying on the extruder's function. Here's how you can achieve similar results. +People ask me occasionally how to get beautiful patterns in the beams and the funny thing is that zero technical tricks are used to make that happen! The used technique for making beams is exactly the way Precious Plastic does it, using a simple steel pipe as a mold and let the extruder do the work :-) +Here is what you can try to get the same results! ## Steps ### Step 1: Prepare your blends carefully -In order to create patterns with distinct layers, use at least two colors. It makes no difference whether you work with PP (Polypropylene) or PE (Polyethylene), as there are no noticeable differences between the two in this context. Keep color mixes separate. The dark blue used here was mixed with transparent flakes, which serve as an effective filler. This allows you to use less dark blue pigment without compromising the output, as the pigments are usually strong. For example, adding 2.2 lbs (1 kg) of transparent flakes to 2.2 lbs (1 kg) of dark blue yields 4.4 lbs (2 kg) of dark blue material while maintaining color quality. The white used here is pure white. +In order to create patterns with nice layers, you need at least 2 colors. It doesn't really matter if you work with PP or PE, I haven't seen differences while working with these two. Keep the color mixes seperate. I mixed the dark blue that I used here with transparant flakes because it's a nice 'filler'. You will need less dark blue to create the same output because the color pigments are often very strong. So if you add 1kg transparant to 1kg dark blue, you get 2kg dark blue without loss of color quality. +The white used here is pure white. ![Screen Shot 2020-12-12 at 18.31.26.png](./Screen_Shot_2020-12-12_at_18.31.26.png) ### Step 2: Time to do the cooking! -### Extrusion Process Guide - -1. **Initial Setup**: Add a few scoops into the extruder. -2. **Operation**: Activate the machine and ensure the material is thoroughly melted. -3. **Mold Installation**: Attach the cold mold and restart the machine. -4. **Material Addition**: - - For the first color, use approximately 3 scoops total, accounting for any material already in the hopper. - - As the hopper nears empty, add 2 scoops of the second color. - - Adjust quantities as needed until the mold is filled. -5. **Cooling**: Remove the mold to let it cool. While some suggest water cooling to avoid leakage, it is typically unnecessary. +Insert a few scoops in your extruder, turn the machine on and see if it comes out fully melted. Install your (cold) mold and turn on the machine again. For the first color I would go for 3 scoops in total ( minus the leftover already in the hopper). When the hopper is almost empty, toss in 2 scoops of your second color. Repeat this step while playing with the quantities until the mold is full. Time to remove to cool down a bit. I noticed the advice of cooling the mold in water to prevent plastic of running out, but that hardly happens in here so I never do that. ![Schermafbeelding 2021-01-08 om 17.07.02.png](./Schermafbeelding_2021-01-08_om_17.07.02.png) @@ -41,9 +35,7 @@ In order to create patterns with distinct layers, use at least two colors. It ma ### Step 3: Unboxing and see what came out -## Analysis of the Mixing Process - -Upon sectioning the beam, observe the evolving pattern. Initially, the first color adheres to the mold's surface and begins to cool. Meanwhile, the inner core remains fluid, allowing subsequent colors to pass through. Repeatedly altering the input colors results in multiple layers within the beam. Proceed to the next step for further theoretical insights. +Time to check out what the mix did! :-) When you start cutting the beam into little bits you will see an interesting changing of the pattern and my best explanation would be the following: The first color inserted sticks to the wall/surface of the mold and cools down a little. The core stays fluid and gains acces for the second color to pass trough. changing the input color again and again will create multiple layers in your beam. See next step for theory part 2 :-) ![Screen Shot 2020-12-12 at 18.35.06.png](./Screen_Shot_2020-12-12_at_18.35.06.png) @@ -56,54 +48,9 @@ Upon sectioning the beam, observe the evolving pattern. Initially, the first col ### Step 4: Theory part 2 & proces video -Another essential theory suggests that as plastic moves further into the mold, it cools, necessitating increased pressure for continued flow. The further from the inlet, the patterns become intricate due to variations in temperature and pressure. This phenomenon is particularly notable in square tubes, where flow slows at the corners. In contrast, round tubes likely produce circular patterns. +Another important theory is that... further in the mold, the plastic will be less hot so pressure is being build up more in order to let the plastic flow. The further away from the inlet, the patterns start to get very interesting and that's all created by differences in temperature flows and pressure. Especially with the square tube is this super interesting because of the corners where the flow will slow down more. I assume round tube will only create circle patterns. -Refer to the video for the process of creating a chessboard with these beams. Thank you for reading, and enjoy your pattern-making! +Check out the video to see the making of a Chessboard with these amazing beams. Thank you for reading and enjoy your pattern creating! ## Resources -### Hardware - -- Extruder machine -- Steel pipe mold - -### Tools - -- Material scoops -- Water cooling setup (optional, typically unnecessary) - -### Software - -- None specified - -(Note: No explicit links were provided in the original text.) -## References -### Articles - -- [Plastic Extrusion Guide](https://www.3devo.com/plastic-extrusion) -- [Understanding Plastic Extrusion](https://pri-plastics.com/understanding-plastic-extrusion-a-comprehensive-guide/) -- [Ultimate Guide to Plastic Extrusion](https://paulmurphyplastics.com/industry-news-blog/ultimate-guide-to-the-plastic-extrusion-process-2/) -- [Plastic Extrusion Process Guide](https://www.rapiddirect.com/blog/plastic-extrusion-process/) -- [Recycled Plastic Chessboard Tutorial](https://www.instructables.com/Recycled-Plastic-Chessboard-With-Unique-Patterns/) - -### Books - -- ~~[Extrusion (ASM Handbook)](https://dl.asminternational.org/technical-books/edited-volume/157/Extrusion)~~ -- [Understanding Extrusion, 3rd Edition](https://www.target.com/p/understanding-extrusion-3rd-edition-by-chris-rauwendaal-paperback/-/A-94138712) -- [Extrusion Cooking: Cereal Grains Processing](https://my.cerealsgrains.org/ItemDetail?iProductCode=53604) -- [Extrusion: Definitive Processing Guide](https://bronze.ir/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/Extrusion-The-Definitive-Processing-Guide-and-Handbook.pdf) -- [Extrusion Cooking (Harvard Book)](https://www.harvard.com/book/9780128153604) -- ~~[Understanding Extrusion (Reiter's Books)](https://www.reiters.com/book/9781569906989)~~ - -### Papers - -- [Finite Element Analysis of Extruded Aluminum](https://www.tug.org/tug2019/booklet/all.pdf) -- [Thermo-Chemo-Mechanical Model for Material Extrusion](https://papers.ssrn.com/sol3/Delivery.cfm/733008ad-9620-43bf-896c-aa4a2e9931e5-MECA.pdf?abstractid=4611811\&mirid=1) -- [Finite Element Modeling of Bolt-Together Connectors](https://www.scielo.br/j/lajss/a/RhkcwN4nj5kGtK96nBnLxpS/?lang=en) - -### YouTube - -- [SketchUp Chessboard Tutorial](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=emWYTwlQOZc) - -### Opensource Designs - -- [LLM Learning Resources (GitHub)](https://github.com/ParthaPRay/LLM-Learning-Sources) \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/make-great-beam-patterns/config.json b/howtos/make-great-beam-patterns/config.json index 6e1c10d22..f68f104ab 100644 --- a/howtos/make-great-beam-patterns/config.json +++ b/howtos/make-great-beam-patterns/config.json @@ -6,7 +6,7 @@ "LDPE" ], "id": "AqACwN30x51UMTkDjqt3", - "description": "Frequently, individuals inquire about achieving attractive patterns in beams, and interestingly, no special technical tricks are involved. The method aligns with standard practices, using a basic steel pipe mold and relying on the extruder's function. Here's how you can achieve similar results.", + "description": "People ask me occasionally how to get beautiful patterns in the beams and the funny thing is that zero technical tricks are used to make that happen! The used technique for making beams is exactly the way Precious Plastic does it, using a simple steel pipe as a mold and let the extruder do the work :-) \nHere is what you can try to get the same results!", "_id": "AqACwN30x51UMTkDjqt3", "moderation": "accepted", "creatorCountry": "", @@ -35,7 +35,7 @@ "mentions": [], "steps": [ { - "text": "In order to create patterns with distinct layers, use at least two colors. It makes no difference whether you work with PP (Polypropylene) or PE (Polyethylene), as there are no noticeable differences between the two in this context. Keep color mixes separate. The dark blue used here was mixed with transparent flakes, which serve as an effective filler. This allows you to use less dark blue pigment without compromising the output, as the pigments are usually strong. For example, adding 2.2 lbs (1 kg) of transparent flakes to 2.2 lbs (1 kg) of dark blue yields 4.4 lbs (2 kg) of dark blue material while maintaining color quality. The white used here is pure white.", + "text": "In order to create patterns with nice layers, you need at least 2 colors. It doesn't really matter if you work with PP or PE, I haven't seen differences while working with these two. Keep the color mixes seperate. I mixed the dark blue that I used here with transparant flakes because it's a nice 'filler'. You will need less dark blue to create the same output because the color pigments are often very strong. So if you add 1kg transparant to 1kg dark blue, you get 2kg dark blue without loss of color quality. \nThe white used here is pure white.", "title": "Prepare your blends carefully", "_animationKey": "unique1", "images": [ @@ -82,7 +82,7 @@ ], "title": "Time to do the cooking!", "_animationKey": "unique2", - "text": "### Extrusion Process Guide\n\n1. **Initial Setup**: Add a few scoops into the extruder.\n2. **Operation**: Activate the machine and ensure the material is thoroughly melted.\n3. **Mold Installation**: Attach the cold mold and restart the machine.\n4. **Material Addition**:\n - For the first color, use approximately 3 scoops total, accounting for any material already in the hopper.\n - As the hopper nears empty, add 2 scoops of the second color.\n - Adjust quantities as needed until the mold is filled.\n5. **Cooling**: Remove the mold to let it cool. While some suggest water cooling to avoid leakage, it is typically unnecessary." + "text": "Insert a few scoops in your extruder, turn the machine on and see if it comes out fully melted. Install your (cold) mold and turn on the machine again. For the first color I would go for 3 scoops in total ( minus the leftover already in the hopper). When the hopper is almost empty, toss in 2 scoops of your second color. Repeat this step while playing with the quantities until the mold is full. Time to remove to cool down a bit. I noticed the advice of cooling the mold in water to prevent plastic of running out, but that hardly happens in here so I never do that. " }, { "images": [ @@ -125,14 +125,14 @@ ], "title": "Unboxing and see what came out", "_animationKey": "unique3", - "text": "## Analysis of the Mixing Process\n\nUpon sectioning the beam, observe the evolving pattern. Initially, the first color adheres to the mold's surface and begins to cool. Meanwhile, the inner core remains fluid, allowing subsequent colors to pass through. Repeatedly altering the input colors results in multiple layers within the beam. Proceed to the next step for further theoretical insights." + "text": "Time to check out what the mix did! :-) When you start cutting the beam into little bits you will see an interesting changing of the pattern and my best explanation would be the following: The first color inserted sticks to the wall/surface of the mold and cools down a little. The core stays fluid and gains acces for the second color to pass trough. changing the input color again and again will create multiple layers in your beam. See next step for theory part 2 :-)" }, { "title": "Theory part 2 & proces video", "images": [], "videoUrl": "https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7UR24vE0D1g&t=11s", "_animationKey": "uniquepg29br", - "text": "Another essential theory suggests that as plastic moves further into the mold, it cools, necessitating increased pressure for continued flow. The further from the inlet, the patterns become intricate due to variations in temperature and pressure. This phenomenon is particularly notable in square tubes, where flow slows at the corners. In contrast, round tubes likely produce circular patterns.\n\nRefer to the video for the process of creating a chessboard with these beams. Thank you for reading, and enjoy your pattern-making!" + "text": "Another important theory is that... further in the mold, the plastic will be less hot so pressure is being build up more in order to let the plastic flow. The further away from the inlet, the patterns start to get very interesting and that's all created by differences in temperature flows and pressure. Especially with the square tube is this super interesting because of the corners where the flow will slow down more. I assume round tube will only create circle patterns. \n\nCheck out the video to see the making of a Chessboard with these amazing beams. Thank you for reading and enjoy your pattern creating!" } ], "_deleted": false, @@ -187,9 +187,5 @@ "slug": "make-great-beam-patterns", "previouslyAccepted": true, "files": [], - "content": "Frequently, individuals inquire about achieving attractive patterns in beams, and interestingly, no special technical tricks are involved. The method aligns with standard practices, using a basic steel pipe mold and relying on the extruder's function. Here's how you can achieve similar results.\n\nIn order to create patterns with distinct layers, use at least two colors. It makes no difference whether you work with PP (Polypropylene) or PE (Polyethylene), as there are no noticeable differences between the two in this context. Keep color mixes separate. The dark blue used here was mixed with transparent flakes, which serve as an effective filler. This allows you to use less dark blue pigment without compromising the output, as the pigments are usually strong. For example, adding 2.2 lbs (1 kg) of transparent flakes to 2.2 lbs (1 kg) of dark blue yields 4.4 lbs (2 kg) of dark blue material while maintaining color quality. The white used here is pure white.\n\n### Extrusion Process Guide\n\n1. **Initial Setup**: Add a few scoops into the extruder.\n2. **Operation**: Activate the machine and ensure the material is thoroughly melted.\n3. **Mold Installation**: Attach the cold mold and restart the machine.\n4. **Material Addition**:\n - For the first color, use approximately 3 scoops total, accounting for any material already in the hopper.\n - As the hopper nears empty, add 2 scoops of the second color.\n - Adjust quantities as needed until the mold is filled.\n5. **Cooling**: Remove the mold to let it cool. While some suggest water cooling to avoid leakage, it is typically unnecessary.\n\n## Analysis of the Mixing Process\n\nUpon sectioning the beam, observe the evolving pattern. Initially, the first color adheres to the mold's surface and begins to cool. Meanwhile, the inner core remains fluid, allowing subsequent colors to pass through. Repeatedly altering the input colors results in multiple layers within the beam. Proceed to the next step for further theoretical insights.\n\nAnother essential theory suggests that as plastic moves further into the mold, it cools, necessitating increased pressure for continued flow. The further from the inlet, the patterns become intricate due to variations in temperature and pressure. This phenomenon is particularly notable in square tubes, where flow slows at the corners. In contrast, round tubes likely produce circular patterns.\n\nRefer to the video for the process of creating a chessboard with these beams. Thank you for reading, and enjoy your pattern-making!", - "keywords": "extrusion process, steel pipe mold, pattern making, polypropylene vs polyethylene, color mixing techniques, extruder function, layer creation, cooling methods, material addition, plastic flow analysis", - "resources": "### Hardware\n\n- Extruder machine\n- Steel pipe mold\n\n### Tools\n\n- Material scoops\n- Water cooling setup (optional, typically unnecessary)\n\n### Software\n\n- None specified\n\n(Note: No explicit links were provided in the original text.)", - "references": "### Articles\n\n- [Plastic Extrusion Guide](https://www.3devo.com/plastic-extrusion)\n- [Understanding Plastic Extrusion](https://pri-plastics.com/understanding-plastic-extrusion-a-comprehensive-guide/)\n- [Ultimate Guide to Plastic Extrusion](https://paulmurphyplastics.com/industry-news-blog/ultimate-guide-to-the-plastic-extrusion-process-2/)\n- [Plastic Extrusion Process Guide](https://www.rapiddirect.com/blog/plastic-extrusion-process/)\n- [Recycled Plastic Chessboard Tutorial](https://www.instructables.com/Recycled-Plastic-Chessboard-With-Unique-Patterns/)\n\n### Books\n\n- ~~[Extrusion (ASM Handbook)](https://dl.asminternational.org/technical-books/edited-volume/157/Extrusion)~~\n- [Understanding Extrusion, 3rd Edition](https://www.target.com/p/understanding-extrusion-3rd-edition-by-chris-rauwendaal-paperback/-/A-94138712)\n- [Extrusion Cooking: Cereal Grains Processing](https://my.cerealsgrains.org/ItemDetail?iProductCode=53604)\n- [Extrusion: Definitive Processing Guide](https://bronze.ir/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/Extrusion-The-Definitive-Processing-Guide-and-Handbook.pdf)\n- [Extrusion Cooking (Harvard Book)](https://www.harvard.com/book/9780128153604)\n- ~~[Understanding Extrusion (Reiter's Books)](https://www.reiters.com/book/9781569906989)~~\n\n### Papers\n\n- [Finite Element Analysis of Extruded Aluminum](https://www.tug.org/tug2019/booklet/all.pdf)\n- [Thermo-Chemo-Mechanical Model for Material Extrusion](https://papers.ssrn.com/sol3/Delivery.cfm/733008ad-9620-43bf-896c-aa4a2e9931e5-MECA.pdf?abstractid=4611811\\&mirid=1)\n- [Finite Element Modeling of Bolt-Together Connectors](https://www.scielo.br/j/lajss/a/RhkcwN4nj5kGtK96nBnLxpS/?lang=en)\n\n### YouTube\n\n- [SketchUp Chessboard Tutorial](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=emWYTwlQOZc)\n\n### Opensource Designs\n\n- [LLM Learning Resources (GitHub)](https://github.com/ParthaPRay/LLM-Learning-Sources)", - "brief": "Create stunning patterns in beams using a basic extruder and steel pipe mold. Mix colors for unique designs in polypropylene or polyethylene materials." + "content": "People ask me occasionally how to get beautiful patterns in the beams and the funny thing is that zero technical tricks are used to make that happen! The used technique for making beams is exactly the way Precious Plastic does it, using a simple steel pipe as a mold and let the extruder do the work :-) \nHere is what you can try to get the same results!\n\nIn order to create patterns with nice layers, you need at least 2 colors. It doesn't really matter if you work with PP or PE, I haven't seen differences while working with these two. Keep the color mixes seperate. I mixed the dark blue that I used here with transparant flakes because it's a nice 'filler'. You will need less dark blue to create the same output because the color pigments are often very strong. So if you add 1kg transparant to 1kg dark blue, you get 2kg dark blue without loss of color quality. \nThe white used here is pure white.\n\nInsert a few scoops in your extruder, turn the machine on and see if it comes out fully melted. Install your (cold) mold and turn on the machine again. For the first color I would go for 3 scoops in total ( minus the leftover already in the hopper). When the hopper is almost empty, toss in 2 scoops of your second color. Repeat this step while playing with the quantities until the mold is full. Time to remove to cool down a bit. I noticed the advice of cooling the mold in water to prevent plastic of running out, but that hardly happens in here so I never do that. \n\nTime to check out what the mix did! :-) When you start cutting the beam into little bits you will see an interesting changing of the pattern and my best explanation would be the following: The first color inserted sticks to the wall/surface of the mold and cools down a little. The core stays fluid and gains acces for the second color to pass trough. changing the input color again and again will create multiple layers in your beam. See next step for theory part 2 :-)\n\nAnother important theory is that... further in the mold, the plastic will be less hot so pressure is being build up more in order to let the plastic flow. The further away from the inlet, the patterns start to get very interesting and that's all created by differences in temperature flows and pressure. Especially with the square tube is this super interesting because of the corners where the flow will slow down more. I assume round tube will only create circle patterns. \n\nCheck out the video to see the making of a Chessboard with these amazing beams. Thank you for reading and enjoy your pattern creating!" } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/make-notepad-covers--springs/README.md b/howtos/make-notepad-covers--springs/README.md index 2f8a2c993..98380afa5 100644 --- a/howtos/make-notepad-covers--springs/README.md +++ b/howtos/make-notepad-covers--springs/README.md @@ -1,93 +1,37 @@ --- title: Make notepad covers & springs slug: make-notepad-covers--springs -description: # Guide to Creating Small Sheets and Springs for a Notepad - -## Materials Required -- Metal wire -- Paper sheets -- Cutting tools -- Ruler - -## Procedure - -### Step 1: Prepare Materials -1. Gather A4 paper sheets (8.27 x 11.7 inches). -2. Use a ruler to measure and cut the paper into smaller sheets of desired size. - -### Step 2: Crafting Sheets -1. Determine the final size of the notepad sheets. -2. Use cutting tools to trim paper to size. - -### Step 3: Creating Springs -1. Cut metal wire to the required length, approximately 20 cm (7.87 inches). -2. Shape the wire into a spring using a cylindrical object for uniformity. - -### Step 4: Assemble the Notepad -1. Align sheets and insert the spring along one edge. -2. Ensure the binding is secure and functional. - -### Completion -Your notepad is now ready for use. +description: How to make small sheets and springs to assemble a notepad tags: ["PP","compression","extrusion"] category: Products difficulty: Easy time: < 1 hour -keywords: notepad creation, small sheets, metal springs, DIY notepad, crafting materials, paper cutting, wire shaping, assembling notepad, injection molding, plastic filaments +keywords: location: Neuquen, Argentina --- # Make notepad covers & springs ![Make notepad covers & springs](notebook.jpg) -# Guide to Creating Small Sheets and Springs for a Notepad - -## Materials Required -- Metal wire -- Paper sheets -- Cutting tools -- Ruler - -## Procedure - -### Step 1: Prepare Materials -1. Gather A4 paper sheets (8.27 x 11.7 inches). -2. Use a ruler to measure and cut the paper into smaller sheets of desired size. - -### Step 2: Crafting Sheets -1. Determine the final size of the notepad sheets. -2. Use cutting tools to trim paper to size. - -### Step 3: Creating Springs -1. Cut metal wire to the required length, approximately 20 cm (7.87 inches). -2. Shape the wire into a spring using a cylindrical object for uniformity. - -### Step 4: Assemble the Notepad -1. Align sheets and insert the spring along one edge. -2. Ensure the binding is secure and functional. - -### Completion -Your notepad is now ready for use. +How to make small sheets and springs to assemble a notepad User Location: Neuquen, Argentina ## Steps ### Step 1: Prepare your mix -Select, weigh, and mix your chosen colors. We used PP shredded bottle caps. +Select, weight, and mix the colors you want, we used PP shredded bottle caps. ![IMG_8871.jpg](./IMG_8871.jpg) ### Step 2: Make the springs -### Instruction for Creating Plastic Filaments - -Fill the injection machine and wait for the plastic to flow. Attach a small nozzle and apply consistent pressure. Use a wooden rod to wind the filament, which facilitates adhesion and shaping. Adjust the filament length as needed. +Fill the injection machine and wait for the plastic to start flowing, with a small nozzle and a constant weight applied on the machine, use a wooden rod to "screw" the filament around it, make it as long as you want, we recommend using a wooden rod because the plastics sort of sticks and makes it easier to form the spring. ![IMG_8877.jpg](./IMG_8877.jpg) ### Step 3: Make the covers -Detach the small nozzle from the injection machine. Extrude plastic onto a flat sheet and press it against another sheet. Allow it to cool completely before removing the plastic sheet. Cut it to the desired shape, create holes, and assemble the notebook. +Remove the small nozzle from the injection machine and extrude some plastic on a flat sheet, press it against another sheet in a press, wait for it to cool and remove the plastic sheet, cut it to shape, make the holes and assemble the notebook. ![WhatsApp Image 2021-01-21 at 11.41.16 AM.jpeg](./WhatsApp_Image_2021-01-21_at_11.41.16_AM.jpeg) @@ -100,7 +44,7 @@ Detach the small nozzle from the injection machine. Extrude plastic onto a flat ### Step 4: Enjoy your recycled booklet -Experiment with different combinations; you can create the springs from any chosen mixture. +Try different combinations, you can make the springs out of the same mixture of however you want :) ![IMG_8879.jpg](./IMG_8879.jpg) @@ -112,49 +56,4 @@ Experiment with different combinations; you can create the springs from any chos ![IMG_8888.jpg](./IMG_8888.jpg) ## Resources -### Tools - -- Cutting tools (scissors, craft knives) -- Ruler -- Small nozzle (for injection machine) -- Wooden rod (filament winding) - -### Hardware - -- Injection machine (plastic processing) -- Cylindrical object (spring shaping) -- Flat sheets (plastic pressing) - -### Materials - -- Metal wire (springs, ~20 cm length) -- Paper sheets (A4, 8.27 x 11.7 inches) -- PP shredded bottle caps (colored filaments) -## References -## References - -### Articles - -- [How to Make a Handy Notepad in 15 Minutes or Less](https://blog.papercraftpanda.com/staging/5941/make-a-handy-notepad-in-15-minutes-or-less/) -- [DIY Mini Notepads – Free Template and SVG Cut file](https://www.craftingcheerfully.com/diy-mini-notepads/) -- [How to Make a Notebook](https://craftrocker.com/how-to-make-a-notebook/) - -### Books/Papers - -- [Designing the Internet of Things (PDF)](https://madsg.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/Designing_the_Internet_of_Things.pdf) - -### YouTube - -- [how to make wire bound notebooks and planners at home // diy coil](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b-jC8V_geSA) -- [DIY Spiral Bookbinding Tutorial | Sea Lemon](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_W99DY-iHcc) -- [NO MACHINES NEEDED! Make Your Own Spiral Notebook From ...](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KzoE3qczZ9o) -- [Recycling Failed 3D Prints with a DIY Filament Extruder: Artme3D](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BT04glGDjB4) -- [Respool Your 3D Printer Filament With Ease!](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LuhLuW35Urw) -- [DIY Shredder Recycles 3D Printed Waste Into Plastic Injection Pellets](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qoxxyttw3HQ) - -### Open Source Designs - -- [Testing - What The Fuck, David Blue? (Bear Documentation)](https://davidblue.wtf/bear/) -- [Make Your Own 3D Printer Filament by Building Your Own Filament ...](https://3dprint.com/56759/diy-filastruder-instructables/) -- [Plastic Injection Molding and Extruding : 11 Steps](https://www.instructables.com/Plastic-injection-molding-and-extruding/) -- [Archives | The Wiert Corner](https://wiert.me/archives/) \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/make-notepad-covers--springs/config.json b/howtos/make-notepad-covers--springs/config.json index fc93149d5..571cd5221 100644 --- a/howtos/make-notepad-covers--springs/config.json +++ b/howtos/make-notepad-covers--springs/config.json @@ -25,7 +25,7 @@ ], "title": "Prepare your mix", "_animationKey": "unique1", - "text": "Select, weigh, and mix your chosen colors. We used PP shredded bottle caps." + "text": "Select, weight, and mix the colors you want, we used PP shredded bottle caps. " }, { "images": [ @@ -44,11 +44,11 @@ ], "title": "Make the springs", "_animationKey": "unique2", - "text": "### Instruction for Creating Plastic Filaments\n\nFill the injection machine and wait for the plastic to flow. Attach a small nozzle and apply consistent pressure. Use a wooden rod to wind the filament, which facilitates adhesion and shaping. Adjust the filament length as needed." + "text": "Fill the injection machine and wait for the plastic to start flowing, with a small nozzle and a constant weight applied on the machine, use a wooden rod to \"screw\" the filament around it, make it as long as you want, we recommend using a wooden rod because the plastics sort of sticks and makes it easier to form the spring." }, { "title": "Make the covers", - "text": "Detach the small nozzle from the injection machine. Extrude plastic onto a flat sheet and press it against another sheet. Allow it to cool completely before removing the plastic sheet. Cut it to the desired shape, create holes, and assemble the notebook.", + "text": "Remove the small nozzle from the injection machine and extrude some plastic on a flat sheet, press it against another sheet in a press, wait for it to cool and remove the plastic sheet, cut it to shape, make the holes and assemble the notebook.", "_animationKey": "unique3", "images": [ { @@ -130,7 +130,7 @@ "alt": "IMG_8888.jpg" } ], - "text": "Experiment with different combinations; you can create the springs from any chosen mixture." + "text": "Try different combinations, you can make the springs out of the same mixture of however you want :)" } ], "votedUsefulBy": [ @@ -148,7 +148,7 @@ "creatorCountry": "ar", "_createdBy": "estudio-618", "fileLink": "", - "description": "# Guide to Creating Small Sheets and Springs for a Notepad\n\n## Materials Required\n- Metal wire \n- Paper sheets\n- Cutting tools \n- Ruler\n\n## Procedure\n\n### Step 1: Prepare Materials\n1. Gather A4 paper sheets (8.27 x 11.7 inches).\n2. Use a ruler to measure and cut the paper into smaller sheets of desired size.\n\n### Step 2: Crafting Sheets\n1. Determine the final size of the notepad sheets.\n2. Use cutting tools to trim paper to size.\n\n### Step 3: Creating Springs\n1. Cut metal wire to the required length, approximately 20 cm (7.87 inches).\n2. Shape the wire into a spring using a cylindrical object for uniformity.\n\n### Step 4: Assemble the Notepad\n1. Align sheets and insert the spring along one edge.\n2. Ensure the binding is secure and functional. \n\n### Completion\nYour notepad is now ready for use.", + "description": "How to make small sheets and springs to assemble a notepad", "cover_image": { "size": 112253, "name": "notebook.jpg", @@ -306,9 +306,5 @@ "urls": [] } }, - "content": "# Guide to Creating Small Sheets and Springs for a Notepad\n\n## Materials Required\n- Metal wire \n- Paper sheets\n- Cutting tools \n- Ruler\n\n## Procedure\n\n### Step 1: Prepare Materials\n1. Gather A4 paper sheets (8.27 x 11.7 inches).\n2. Use a ruler to measure and cut the paper into smaller sheets of desired size.\n\n### Step 2: Crafting Sheets\n1. Determine the final size of the notepad sheets.\n2. Use cutting tools to trim paper to size.\n\n### Step 3: Creating Springs\n1. Cut metal wire to the required length, approximately 20 cm (7.87 inches).\n2. Shape the wire into a spring using a cylindrical object for uniformity.\n\n### Step 4: Assemble the Notepad\n1. Align sheets and insert the spring along one edge.\n2. Ensure the binding is secure and functional. \n\n### Completion\nYour notepad is now ready for use.\n\n\nUser Location: Neuquen, Argentina\n\nSelect, weigh, and mix your chosen colors. We used PP shredded bottle caps.\n\n### Instruction for Creating Plastic Filaments\n\nFill the injection machine and wait for the plastic to flow. Attach a small nozzle and apply consistent pressure. Use a wooden rod to wind the filament, which facilitates adhesion and shaping. Adjust the filament length as needed.\n\nDetach the small nozzle from the injection machine. Extrude plastic onto a flat sheet and press it against another sheet. Allow it to cool completely before removing the plastic sheet. Cut it to the desired shape, create holes, and assemble the notebook.\n\nExperiment with different combinations; you can create the springs from any chosen mixture.", - "keywords": "notepad creation, small sheets, metal springs, DIY notepad, crafting materials, paper cutting, wire shaping, assembling notepad, injection molding, plastic filaments", - "resources": "### Tools\n\n- Cutting tools (scissors, craft knives)\n- Ruler\n- Small nozzle (for injection machine)\n- Wooden rod (filament winding)\n\n### Hardware\n\n- Injection machine (plastic processing)\n- Cylindrical object (spring shaping)\n- Flat sheets (plastic pressing)\n\n### Materials\n\n- Metal wire (springs, ~20 cm length)\n- Paper sheets (A4, 8.27 x 11.7 inches)\n- PP shredded bottle caps (colored filaments)", - "references": "## References\n\n### Articles\n\n- [How to Make a Handy Notepad in 15 Minutes or Less](https://blog.papercraftpanda.com/staging/5941/make-a-handy-notepad-in-15-minutes-or-less/)\n- [DIY Mini Notepads – Free Template and SVG Cut file](https://www.craftingcheerfully.com/diy-mini-notepads/)\n- [How to Make a Notebook](https://craftrocker.com/how-to-make-a-notebook/)\n\n### Books/Papers\n\n- [Designing the Internet of Things (PDF)](https://madsg.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/Designing_the_Internet_of_Things.pdf)\n\n### YouTube\n\n- [how to make wire bound notebooks and planners at home // diy coil](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b-jC8V_geSA)\n- [DIY Spiral Bookbinding Tutorial | Sea Lemon](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_W99DY-iHcc)\n- [NO MACHINES NEEDED! Make Your Own Spiral Notebook From ...](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KzoE3qczZ9o)\n- [Recycling Failed 3D Prints with a DIY Filament Extruder: Artme3D](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BT04glGDjB4)\n- [Respool Your 3D Printer Filament With Ease!](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LuhLuW35Urw)\n- [DIY Shredder Recycles 3D Printed Waste Into Plastic Injection Pellets](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qoxxyttw3HQ)\n\n### Open Source Designs\n\n- [Testing - What The Fuck, David Blue? (Bear Documentation)](https://davidblue.wtf/bear/)\n- [Make Your Own 3D Printer Filament by Building Your Own Filament ...](https://3dprint.com/56759/diy-filastruder-instructables/)\n- [Plastic Injection Molding and Extruding : 11 Steps](https://www.instructables.com/Plastic-injection-molding-and-extruding/)\n- [Archives | The Wiert Corner](https://wiert.me/archives/)", - "brief": "Craft small sheets and springs for a notepad: Prepare materials, cut paper, shape wire springs, and assemble. Create a functional and secure notepad." + "content": "How to make small sheets and springs to assemble a notepad\n\n\nUser Location: Neuquen, Argentina\n\nSelect, weight, and mix the colors you want, we used PP shredded bottle caps. \n\nFill the injection machine and wait for the plastic to start flowing, with a small nozzle and a constant weight applied on the machine, use a wooden rod to \"screw\" the filament around it, make it as long as you want, we recommend using a wooden rod because the plastics sort of sticks and makes it easier to form the spring.\n\nRemove the small nozzle from the injection machine and extrude some plastic on a flat sheet, press it against another sheet in a press, wait for it to cool and remove the plastic sheet, cut it to shape, make the holes and assemble the notebook.\n\nTry different combinations, you can make the springs out of the same mixture of however you want :)" } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/make-outdoor-furniture-with-beams/README.md b/howtos/make-outdoor-furniture-with-beams/README.md index 3eeeb5980..78f107e80 100644 --- a/howtos/make-outdoor-furniture-with-beams/README.md +++ b/howtos/make-outdoor-furniture-with-beams/README.md @@ -1,29 +1,28 @@ --- title: Make outdoor furniture with beams slug: make-outdoor-furniture-with-beams -description: We extrude various types of plastic into sticks, then assemble them into furniture. For the chairs, use sticks with a hard mixture for the legs and a soft mixture for the seat. - -**Hard Mixture:** LDPE, HDPE, PP, PS -**Soft Mixture:** LDPE, HDPE, EVA (flip flops) +description: We extrude the mix of all the different kinds of plastic to sticks and screw them together to furniture. For our chairs you need stickd with hard parts for the legs of the chair and a soft part in the middle. +HARD ..mix LDPE HDOE PP PS +SOFT .mix LDPE HDPE EVA flip flops tags: ["extrusion","PP","LDPE","HDPE","product"] category: Products difficulty: Medium time: 1+ months -keywords: plastic furniture, plastic extrusion, LDPE furniture, HDPE furniture, eco-friendly furniture, sustainable furniture, recycled plastic furniture, Toan Nguyen extruders, Vietnam plastic furniture, assembly of plastic furniture +keywords: location: Tan An, Viet Nam --- # Make outdoor furniture with beams ![Make outdoor furniture with beams](Extruded_furniture-title.jpg) -We extrude various types of plastic into sticks, then assemble them into furniture. For the chairs, use sticks with a hard mixture for the legs and a soft mixture for the seat. - -**Hard Mixture:** LDPE, HDPE, PP, PS -**Soft Mixture:** LDPE, HDPE, EVA (flip flops) +We extrude the mix of all the different kinds of plastic to sticks and screw them together to furniture. For our chairs you need stickd with hard parts for the legs of the chair and a soft part in the middle. +HARD ..mix LDPE HDOE PP PS +SOFT .mix LDPE HDPE EVA flip flops User Location: Tan An, Viet Nam ## Steps ### Step 1: Extruding sticks -We use a blend of plastic typically found on beaches or in nature: approximately 40% LDPE, 20% HDPE, 20% PP, 10% shrunk EPS, and a small amount of shredded PET, aluminum-coated chip bags, and EVA, but no PVC. We allow for some quality reduction. Toan Nguyen developed the first extruders in Vietnam. +We use the mix of plastic found on the beach or in the environment, about 40 % LDPE, 20% HDPE, 20 % PP, 10 % shrunk EPS and a small amount of shredded PET, aluminium coa. ted chips bags, EVA , but no PVC .... we accept some downgrading which is possible for a bit lower quality in this way. +My friend Toan Nguyen has developed the first extruders built in Vietnam. ![Extruded furniture-5.jpg](./Extruded_furniture-5.jpg) @@ -36,9 +35,9 @@ We use a blend of plastic typically found on beaches or in nature: approximately ### Step 2: Prepare your pieces -Choose a furniture design, possibly replicating an existing wooden piece, and prepare the necessary components. +Choose a furniture design (you can just copy an existing piece of furniture which is made out of wood) and prepare the pieces you need to build it. -Typically, straight beams suffice, but sticks can be bent for rounded elements. +In most furniture it's enough to use straight beams, but you can also bend the sticks so you have round elements. ![Extruded furniture-10.jpg](./Extruded_furniture-10.jpg) @@ -48,7 +47,8 @@ Typically, straight beams suffice, but sticks can be bent for rounded elements. ### Step 3: Screw the parts together -Assemble the parts, screwing them together as you would with wood, to complete your furniture. +If you have all your parts ready you just need to screw them together like you would do with wood. +Then your furniture is done! ![Extruded furniture-4.jpg](./Extruded_furniture-4.jpg) @@ -61,13 +61,14 @@ Assemble the parts, screwing them together as you would with wood, to complete y ### Step 4: Make more! -### Efficient Processing of Various Plastics +In this way we can process lots of plastic and all kinds. +We build outdoor shelves, tables ... +and publish on our Youtube channel PACIFIC BEAUTY plastic. -Our method allows for the processing of numerous types of plastic. We construct items such as outdoor shelves and tables. More about our process can be seen in this video: +You can see more about this process in this video: +youtube.com: youtube.com/watch?v=_0Kbeaz63OY -[Watch the video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_0Kbeaz63OY) - -Enjoy exploring! +Have fun! :) ![Extruded furniture-9.jpg](./Extruded_furniture-9.jpg) @@ -79,52 +80,4 @@ Enjoy exploring! ![2df6dc615cfa5c0d898b44dce125e440.0.jpg](./2df6dc615cfa5c0d898b44dce125e440.0.jpg) ## Resources -### Tools & Hardware - -- Plastic extruder (local models by Toan Nguyen) -- Shredder/granulator (for processing raw plastics) -- Industrial mixer (blend polymers at specified ratios) -- Heat gun or bending tools (for curved elements) -- Basic woodworking tools (drill, screws, clamps) - -### Materials - -- **Hard mixture components:** LDPE, HDPE, PP, PS -- **Soft mixture components:** LDPE, HDPE, EVA (e.g., recycled flip-flops) -- Additives: Shrunk EPS, shredded PET, aluminum-coated chip bags - -### Additional Resources - -- [Plastic extrusion process video guide](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_0Kbeaz63OY) - -Manufacturing prioritizes locally available plastics (Vietnam-sourced LDPE/HDPE dominance) and tolerates mixed contaminants like sand or minor PET fragments[1]. Avoid PVC entirely due to toxicity risks[2]. -## References -Here are the relevant references grouped by category from the provided search results: - -## Articles - -- ~~[15 pieces of recycled plastic furniture for sustainable design](https://www.archiproducts.com/en/news/15-pieces-of-recycled-plastic-furniture-for-sustainable-design_101279)~~ -- [Paolo Cappello transforms plastic waste into playful furniture objects](https://www.designboom.com/design/paolo-cappello-plastic-waste-furniture-objects-miniforms-superpop-06-22-2023/) -- [Recycled Plastic Furniture - Eureka Direct](https://www.eurekadirect.co.uk/Facilities-Management/Recycled-Plastic-Furniture) - -## Books - -- [Extrusion Dies for Plastics and Rubber](https://www.barnesandnoble.com/w/extrusion-dies-for-plastics-and-rubber-walter-michaeli/1101463047) - -## Papers - -- [Paper and Plastic Waste Composite Boards for Furniture](https://www.swst.org/wp/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/poster_SWST_20_Sobotkov_.pdf) - -## YouTube - -- [Protecting environment by recycling plastic wastes & creating eco-furniture](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Edq13wn1j3U) - -## Open-Source Designs - -- [Nosigner: Open-source furniture for Mozilla Factory](https://www.designboom.com/design/nosigner-mozilla-factory-japan/) - -## Manufacturing Guides - -- [Plastic Extrusion Technology Overview](https://xometry.pro/en-eu/articles/plastic-extrusion-overview/) -- [The Versatility of Plastic Extrusion](https://www.sct-straw.com/en/news/184-transforming-your-home-the-versatility-of-plastic-extrusion-in-furniture-manufacturing) -- [Plastic Extrusion Process - Elastron TPE](https://www.elastron.com/en/what-is-extrusion-plastic-extrusion-process-elastron-tpe) \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/make-outdoor-furniture-with-beams/config.json b/howtos/make-outdoor-furniture-with-beams/config.json index df901095e..5bd81157b 100644 --- a/howtos/make-outdoor-furniture-with-beams/config.json +++ b/howtos/make-outdoor-furniture-with-beams/config.json @@ -64,7 +64,7 @@ "alt": "20200527_100754.jpg" } ], - "text": "We use a blend of plastic typically found on beaches or in nature: approximately 40% LDPE, 20% HDPE, 20% PP, 10% shrunk EPS, and a small amount of shredded PET, aluminum-coated chip bags, and EVA, but no PVC. We allow for some quality reduction. Toan Nguyen developed the first extruders in Vietnam.", + "text": "We use the mix of plastic found on the beach or in the environment, about 40 % LDPE, 20% HDPE, 20 % PP, 10 % shrunk EPS and a small amount of shredded PET, aluminium coa. ted chips bags, EVA , but no PVC .... we accept some downgrading which is possible for a bit lower quality in this way.\nMy friend Toan Nguyen has developed the first extruders built in Vietnam.", "title": "Extruding sticks", "caption": "", "_animationKey": "unique1" @@ -72,7 +72,7 @@ { "_animationKey": "unique2", "caption": "", - "text": "Choose a furniture design, possibly replicating an existing wooden piece, and prepare the necessary components.\n\nTypically, straight beams suffice, but sticks can be bent for rounded elements.", + "text": "Choose a furniture design (you can just copy an existing piece of furniture which is made out of wood) and prepare the pieces you need to build it.\n\nIn most furniture it's enough to use straight beams, but you can also bend the sticks so you have round elements.", "title": "Prepare your pieces", "images": [ { @@ -103,7 +103,7 @@ }, { "title": "Screw the parts together", - "text": "Assemble the parts, screwing them together as you would with wood, to complete your furniture.", + "text": "If you have all your parts ready you just need to screw them together like you would do with wood.\nThen your furniture is done!", "images": [ { "contentType": "image/jpeg", @@ -185,7 +185,7 @@ } ], "title": "Make more!", - "text": "### Efficient Processing of Various Plastics\n\nOur method allows for the processing of numerous types of plastic. We construct items such as outdoor shelves and tables. More about our process can be seen in this video:\n\n[Watch the video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_0Kbeaz63OY)\n\nEnjoy exploring!" + "text": "In this way we can process lots of plastic and all kinds. \nWe build outdoor shelves, tables ...\nand publish on our Youtube channel PACIFIC BEAUTY plastic. \n\nYou can see more about this process in this video:\nyoutube.com: youtube.com/watch?v=_0Kbeaz63OY\n\nHave fun! :)" } ], "_deleted": false, @@ -196,7 +196,7 @@ "total_views": 381, "time": "1+ months", "_id": "vat8toEpIvcUJZRYPtW9", - "description": "We extrude various types of plastic into sticks, then assemble them into furniture. For the chairs, use sticks with a hard mixture for the legs and a soft mixture for the seat.\n\n**Hard Mixture:** LDPE, HDPE, PP, PS \n**Soft Mixture:** LDPE, HDPE, EVA (flip flops)", + "description": "We extrude the mix of all the different kinds of plastic to sticks and screw them together to furniture. For our chairs you need stickd with hard parts for the legs of the chair and a soft part in the middle.\nHARD ..mix LDPE HDOE PP PS\nSOFT .mix LDPE HDPE EVA flip flops", "category": { "label": "Products", "_deleted": false, @@ -339,9 +339,5 @@ "urls": [] } }, - "content": "We extrude various types of plastic into sticks, then assemble them into furniture. For the chairs, use sticks with a hard mixture for the legs and a soft mixture for the seat.\n\n**Hard Mixture:** LDPE, HDPE, PP, PS \n**Soft Mixture:** LDPE, HDPE, EVA (flip flops)\n\n\nUser Location: Tan An, Viet Nam\n\nWe use a blend of plastic typically found on beaches or in nature: approximately 40% LDPE, 20% HDPE, 20% PP, 10% shrunk EPS, and a small amount of shredded PET, aluminum-coated chip bags, and EVA, but no PVC. We allow for some quality reduction. Toan Nguyen developed the first extruders in Vietnam.\n\nChoose a furniture design, possibly replicating an existing wooden piece, and prepare the necessary components.\n\nTypically, straight beams suffice, but sticks can be bent for rounded elements.\n\nAssemble the parts, screwing them together as you would with wood, to complete your furniture.\n\n### Efficient Processing of Various Plastics\n\nOur method allows for the processing of numerous types of plastic. We construct items such as outdoor shelves and tables. More about our process can be seen in this video:\n\n[Watch the video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_0Kbeaz63OY)\n\nEnjoy exploring!", - "keywords": "plastic furniture, plastic extrusion, LDPE furniture, HDPE furniture, eco-friendly furniture, sustainable furniture, recycled plastic furniture, Toan Nguyen extruders, Vietnam plastic furniture, assembly of plastic furniture", - "resources": "### Tools & Hardware\n\n- Plastic extruder (local models by Toan Nguyen)\n- Shredder/granulator (for processing raw plastics)\n- Industrial mixer (blend polymers at specified ratios)\n- Heat gun or bending tools (for curved elements)\n- Basic woodworking tools (drill, screws, clamps)\n\n### Materials\n\n- **Hard mixture components:** LDPE, HDPE, PP, PS\n- **Soft mixture components:** LDPE, HDPE, EVA (e.g., recycled flip-flops)\n- Additives: Shrunk EPS, shredded PET, aluminum-coated chip bags\n\n### Additional Resources\n\n- [Plastic extrusion process video guide](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_0Kbeaz63OY)\n\nManufacturing prioritizes locally available plastics (Vietnam-sourced LDPE/HDPE dominance) and tolerates mixed contaminants like sand or minor PET fragments[1]. Avoid PVC entirely due to toxicity risks[2].", - "references": "Here are the relevant references grouped by category from the provided search results:\n\n## Articles\n\n- ~~[15 pieces of recycled plastic furniture for sustainable design](https://www.archiproducts.com/en/news/15-pieces-of-recycled-plastic-furniture-for-sustainable-design_101279)~~\n- [Paolo Cappello transforms plastic waste into playful furniture objects](https://www.designboom.com/design/paolo-cappello-plastic-waste-furniture-objects-miniforms-superpop-06-22-2023/)\n- [Recycled Plastic Furniture - Eureka Direct](https://www.eurekadirect.co.uk/Facilities-Management/Recycled-Plastic-Furniture)\n\n## Books\n\n- [Extrusion Dies for Plastics and Rubber](https://www.barnesandnoble.com/w/extrusion-dies-for-plastics-and-rubber-walter-michaeli/1101463047)\n\n## Papers\n\n- [Paper and Plastic Waste Composite Boards for Furniture](https://www.swst.org/wp/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/poster_SWST_20_Sobotkov_.pdf)\n\n## YouTube\n\n- [Protecting environment by recycling plastic wastes & creating eco-furniture](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Edq13wn1j3U)\n\n## Open-Source Designs\n\n- [Nosigner: Open-source furniture for Mozilla Factory](https://www.designboom.com/design/nosigner-mozilla-factory-japan/)\n\n## Manufacturing Guides\n\n- [Plastic Extrusion Technology Overview](https://xometry.pro/en-eu/articles/plastic-extrusion-overview/)\n- [The Versatility of Plastic Extrusion](https://www.sct-straw.com/en/news/184-transforming-your-home-the-versatility-of-plastic-extrusion-in-furniture-manufacturing)\n- [Plastic Extrusion Process - Elastron TPE](https://www.elastron.com/en/what-is-extrusion-plastic-extrusion-process-elastron-tpe)", - "brief": "Sustainable furniture from recycled plastic in Tan An, Vietnam. We use innovative extruding methods to create durable and eco-friendly chairs, tables, and shelves." + "content": "We extrude the mix of all the different kinds of plastic to sticks and screw them together to furniture. For our chairs you need stickd with hard parts for the legs of the chair and a soft part in the middle.\nHARD ..mix LDPE HDOE PP PS\nSOFT .mix LDPE HDPE EVA flip flops\n\n\nUser Location: Tan An, Viet Nam\n\nWe use the mix of plastic found on the beach or in the environment, about 40 % LDPE, 20% HDPE, 20 % PP, 10 % shrunk EPS and a small amount of shredded PET, aluminium coa. ted chips bags, EVA , but no PVC .... we accept some downgrading which is possible for a bit lower quality in this way.\nMy friend Toan Nguyen has developed the first extruders built in Vietnam.\n\nChoose a furniture design (you can just copy an existing piece of furniture which is made out of wood) and prepare the pieces you need to build it.\n\nIn most furniture it's enough to use straight beams, but you can also bend the sticks so you have round elements.\n\nIf you have all your parts ready you just need to screw them together like you would do with wood.\nThen your furniture is done!\n\nIn this way we can process lots of plastic and all kinds. \nWe build outdoor shelves, tables ...\nand publish on our Youtube channel PACIFIC BEAUTY plastic. \n\nYou can see more about this process in this video:\nyoutube.com: youtube.com/watch?v=_0Kbeaz63OY\n\nHave fun! :)" } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/make-plaster-moulds-for-large-products/README.md b/howtos/make-plaster-moulds-for-large-products/README.md index 0a9638d34..d11278897 100644 --- a/howtos/make-plaster-moulds-for-large-products/README.md +++ b/howtos/make-plaster-moulds-for-large-products/README.md @@ -1,34 +1,34 @@ --- title: Make plaster moulds for large products slug: make-plaster-moulds-for-large-products -description: This guide details the process of creating and using plaster molds, an effective method for crafting larger, intricate products. +description: Here, we outline the process of making and using plaster moulds. It’s a great low tech way of making larger, more complex products. tags: ["product","injection","extrusion","mould"] category: Moulds difficulty: Medium time: < 1 week -keywords: plaster molds, mold making, prototyping, injection molding, plastic processing, casting plaster, mold release agent, extrusion machine, handmade molds, low-tech mold-making +keywords: location: --- # Make plaster moulds for large products ![Make plaster moulds for large products](michael-makes-stool-1.jpg) -This guide details the process of creating and using plaster molds, an effective method for crafting larger, intricate products. +Here, we outline the process of making and using plaster moulds. It’s a great low tech way of making larger, more complex products. ## Steps ### Step 1: Consider pros and cons -## Overview +Before you start, it is important to note that there are some drawbacks to using this process. Plaster moulds are not long lasting - so this may not make sense as a common way to process plastic. -Plaster molds have a limited lifespan and may not be suitable for regular use in plastic processing. However, they are useful for producing large, solid items and as a prototyping method to test mold designs before milling them into aluminum blocks. +However, it is a great way to inject large, solid products and can be used as a prototyping technique. For example - if you want to test the shape of a mould before it is milled into a block of aluminium. -## Required Materials +You’ll need: +-Extruder machine +-Shredded plastic +-Casting plaster +-Mould release +-A model or object to replicate +-Melamine or plywood +-Heat gun +-Paint, chopped fibreglass, shellac (optional) -- Extruder machine -- Shredded plastic -- Casting plaster -- Mold release agent -- Model or object for replication -- Melamine or plywood -- Heat gun -- Optional: paint, chopped fiberglass, shellac ![IMG_3710.jpg](./IMG_3710.jpg) @@ -38,11 +38,12 @@ Plaster molds have a limited lifespan and may not be suitable for regular use in ### Step 2: Make a model to replicate -Select a model or object to create your plaster mold around, such as a self-made model, a 3D print, or a toy. Determine the number of parts needed for your mold; for our project, a two-part mold was used. +You’ll need a model or object to cast your plaster mould around. This could be anything - a model you made, a 3D print, your favourite toy. Consider how many parts your mould requires. Our product required a two part mould. -Here, the shape was cut from foam using a homemade hot wire and refined by hand sanding. +In this case, the desired shape was cut out of foam using a home made hot wire and hand sanding. + +Pay close attention to the surface finish - if there are any small bumps or dents, these will show in the final product. If you care about this - keep sanding, filling and painting. -Ensure a smooth surface, as imperfections will be visible in the final product. Keep sanding, filling, and painting as needed. ![IMG_3506.jpg](./IMG_3506.jpg) @@ -55,11 +56,11 @@ Ensure a smooth surface, as imperfections will be visible in the final product. ### Step 3: Make a box to cast your mould -Construct a box around your model, ensuring it is sealed and secure to prevent it from floating when plaster is poured. Melamine or plywood may be used for the box. +Make a box around your model and ensure everything is sealed and secure (you don't want your model floating up when you pour the plaster). For the box, melamine works really well but you can also use plywood. -Consider applying a mold release, such as petroleum jelly, to facilitate the release of the plaster. +You might also want to use a mould release (vaseline works!) to make sure the plaster releases more easily. -Reference pins can be useful to ensure the molds align correctly later. +Some reference pins are also handy to make sure the moulds line up with each other later on. ![IMG_3594.jpg](./IMG_3594.jpg) @@ -72,13 +73,13 @@ Reference pins can be useful to ensure the molds align correctly later. ### Step 4: Mix and pour the plaster -Mix the casting plaster following the manufacturer's instructions. Add chopped fiberglass for enhanced mold durability. +Mix the casting plaster according to the manufacturer specifications. In this case, chopped fibreglass was added to the mix to increase the mould durability. -Pour the mixture into the box, filling it to twice the model's height. +Pour the mix into the box - as a general rule, pour it to twice the height of the model. -After pouring, tap the box with a hammer for a few minutes to release air pockets. +As soon as you pour the mix, spend a few minutes taping the box with a hammer to make sure any air pockets rise to the surface. -Let the plaster cure for two days before demolding. +Allow the plaster to cure for a couple of days before you demould. ![IMG_3541.jpg](./IMG_3541.jpg) @@ -88,9 +89,9 @@ Let the plaster cure for two days before demolding. ### Step 5: Air dry and seal -After completing both parts of your mold, allow them to air dry for a few days until they are touch-dry and noticeably lighter. This indicates readiness for the next step. +Now that you have both parts of your mould, it is best to let them air dry for a couple of days. You’ll feel when they’re touch dry (and they’ll be much lighter) - this means you are ready to progress. -Optionally, apply a layer of shellac to the plaster surfaces. Once cured, use a mold release agent like silicone oil or petroleum jelly to prevent plastic from adhering, ensuring the mold's reusability. +As an extra step - you can add a layer of shellac on the plaster surfaces. When it cures, you can then add a mould release (silicone oil or vaseline). This will ensure plastic does not stick to your mould and you can use it again. ![IMG_3599.jpg](./IMG_3599.jpg) @@ -103,13 +104,9 @@ Optionally, apply a layer of shellac to the plaster surfaces. Once cured, use a ### Step 6: Drill injection + relief holes -### Preparing the Mold for Your Machine +Ok, time to prepare the mould for your machine. Clamp the parts of your mould together so that they align. In this case, a large hole was drilled to connect to the extruder machine. -1. **Align and Clamp the Mold**: Secure the mold parts together so they are properly aligned. - -2. **Drill a Large Hole**: Create a large hole for attachment to the extruder machine. - -3. **Drill Indicator Holes**: Add smaller holes at various points to signal when the material reaches a certain level and to help relieve pressure buildup. +Some smaller holes were also drilled in various locations to act as indicators that the plastic has reached that point. They also help to prevent a build up of pressure. ![IMG_3667 copy.jpg](./IMG_3667_copy.jpg) @@ -119,32 +116,34 @@ Optionally, apply a layer of shellac to the plaster surfaces. Once cured, use a ### Step 7: Heat your mould -### Injection Molding Process - -Due to its slow nature, maintaining the mold's internal temperature is crucial. Ensure it remains heated; one effective method is by drilling large holes to allow hot air circulation from two heat guns. +Since this is a slow injection moulding process, you’ll need to make sure the inside of the mould stays hot the whole time. This can be done a number of ways - in this case, large holes were drilled to circulate hot air through the mould from two heat guns. ![IMG_3666 copy.jpg](./IMG_3666_copy.jpg) ### Step 8: Inject (using the extruder) -Begin by heating your plaster mold. Simultaneously, activate the extruder and prepare the plastic. Once the mold is hot, commence the injection process. The duration may vary, ranging from a few minutes to several hours based on the product size. In this instance, it required approximately 2.5 hours to fill the mold. +Ok, you’re almost ready to inject. Start heating your plaster mould. While that’s heating, fire up your extruder and prepare your plastic. When your mould is hot, you can start injecting. This could take anywhere from a few minutes to a few hours depending on the size of your product. In this case, the injection process took about 2.5 hours to fill the mould. -When the plastic reaches all reference points, indicating full injection, switch off the heat guns and extruder. Plug all holes to preserve pressure within the mold. +When plastic has reached all of your reference points (those little holes you drilled earlier) that means your product is fully injected. At this point, turn off your heat guns and extruder. You also need to plug all of the holes to maintain pressure inside the mould. ![IMG_3668 copy.jpg](./IMG_3668_copy.jpg) ### Step 9: Demould -Allow the product to cool at room temperature, which may take up to 12 hours due to the insulating properties of plaster. Carefully demould your product, ensuring the mold remains intact for future use. +You'll have to wait a while for everything to cool down at room temperature. The plaster will insulate the heat so this could take up to 12 hours depending on the size of your product. + +Demould your product and be careful to preserve your mould so you can use it again! ![IMG_3706 copy.jpg](./IMG_3706_copy.jpg) ### Step 10: Post processing -If completed correctly, minimal post-processing is needed. Remove the injection point and relief channels. Clean the part line with a knife to reuse the shavings. +If you've done everything properly, there will only be minimal post processing required. This involves cutting off the injection point and the relief channels. + +You can also clean up the part line. We recommend doing this with a knife so you can recycle the shavings again! ![IMG_3697.jpg](./IMG_3697.jpg) @@ -154,9 +153,10 @@ If completed correctly, minimal post-processing is needed. Remove the injection ### Step 11: That's it! -A time-consuming but effective low-tech mold-making technique. It cannot replace machined molds but is useful for prototyping larger, more organic shapes. This tutorial results in a stool crafted from old polypropylene chairs, showcasing the technique's potential for unique designs. +A little time consuming but a nice low tech mould making technique. It will never replace machined moulds, but can definitely be useful for prototyping larger, more organic shapes. +Here’s our final product - a stool made from old polypropylene chairs. But the possibilities are endless. -You can adjust the contrast by varying the colors of the plastics you feed into the extruder. In this tutorial, similar colors were used, resulting in minimal contrast, but this can be controlled to achieve the desired appearance. +One thing that you could change is the contrast between the plastics you feed into the extruder. In this case, the colour choices were quite similar so there isn’t much contrast. This is something that can definitely be controlled depending on the look you are going for. ![michael-makes-stool-1.jpg](./michael-makes-stool-1.jpg) @@ -165,64 +165,4 @@ You can adjust the contrast by varying the colors of the plastics you feed into ![michael-makes-stool-2.jpg](./michael-makes-stool-2.jpg) ## Resources -### Tools - -- Extruder machine -- Heat gun (2 units recommended) -- Drill (large and indicator holes) -- Hammer (air bubble removal) -- Homemade hot wire (foam shaping) - -### Hardware - -- Melamine/plywood mold box -- Clamps (mold alignment) -- Reference pins -- Heat-resistant materials (mold handling) -- Fiberglass-reinforced plaster (optional durability) - -### Materials - -- Casting plaster -- Shredded plastic -- Mold release agent (silicone oil/petroleum jelly) -- Shellac (optional surface treatment) -- Chopped fiberglass (optional additive) - -### Software - -- 3D design software (optional for digital models) -## References -## References - -### Articles - -- [Plaster Casting: What It Is, How It Works, Uses, Process](https://www.xometry.com/resources/casting/plaster-casting/) -- [Multi-Section Plaster Mold-Making Instructions](http://bryanyerian.blogspot.com/2012/05/multi-section-plaster-mold-making-from.html) -- [Rubber Plaster Molding for Metal Castings](https://www.armstrongrm.com/pages/rpm.html) -- [9 Mistakes to Avoid When Designing Injection Molded Parts](https://www.protolabs.com/resources/design-tips/9-mistakes-to-avoid-when-designing-injection-molded-parts/) -- [Body Casting Tutorial: Hydrogel Mold & Cold Cast Bronze Casting](https://polytek.com/tutorial/body-casting-tutorial-hydrogel-mold-cold-cast-bronze-casting) -- [Thrifty Plaster Molds and Streamlined Processes](https://ceramicartsnetwork.org/daily/article/how-to-make-thrifty-plaster-molds-and-streamline-your-processes) -- [Injection Molding Process Guide](https://sybridge.com/injection-molding-guide/) -- [Step-by-Step Mold Making Guide](https://www.artmolds.com/blogs/mold-making/how-to-make-molds-the-step-by-step-process) -- [Plaster Mold Casting Services & Process](https://sinotech.com/products/formed-metal-parts/plaster-mold-castings/) - -### Books - -- ~~[Mold Making and Casting Guide Book](https://composimold.com/mold-making-and-casting-guide/)~~ -- [The Mold-Making Manual](https://highwaterclays.com/products/the-mold-making-manual) -- [The Essential Guide to Mold Making & Slip Casting](https://www.barnesandnoble.com/w/the-essential-guide-to-mold-making-slip-casting-andrew-martin/1100907494) - -### YouTube - -- [How to Make a Plaster Injection Mold](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vJ6mS74ol8E) -- [Automating 3D Design for Plaster Molds](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9SYBEfq-jt4) -- [Custom 3D Printed Mold for Plaster](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cmC7SQwdXMQ) - -### Papers - -- [Shape Cast: Automating 3D Design for Plaster Molds in Ceramic Slip Casting](https://programs.sigchi.org/chi/2024/program/content/150482) - -### Open-Source Designs - -- [Mold Creation Tutorial for Molding & Casting](https://class.textile-academy.org/2022/olatz-pereda/projects/00_04_mold_creation_molding_casting/) \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/make-plaster-moulds-for-large-products/config.json b/howtos/make-plaster-moulds-for-large-products/config.json index 4bde6e5d2..eceb56366 100644 --- a/howtos/make-plaster-moulds-for-large-products/config.json +++ b/howtos/make-plaster-moulds-for-large-products/config.json @@ -9,7 +9,7 @@ "_createdBy": "michael_makes_", "title": "Make plaster moulds for large products", "id": "1PwZ8Ikcj4QVCgF2NYtk", - "description": "This guide details the process of creating and using plaster molds, an effective method for crafting larger, intricate products.", + "description": "Here, we outline the process of making and using plaster moulds. It’s a great low tech way of making larger, more complex products. ", "_deleted": false, "_contentModifiedTimestamp": "2023-06-14T11:02:19.800Z", "creatorCountry": "", @@ -93,7 +93,7 @@ } ], "title": "Consider pros and cons", - "text": "## Overview\n\nPlaster molds have a limited lifespan and may not be suitable for regular use in plastic processing. However, they are useful for producing large, solid items and as a prototyping method to test mold designs before milling them into aluminum blocks.\n\n## Required Materials\n\n- Extruder machine\n- Shredded plastic\n- Casting plaster\n- Mold release agent\n- Model or object for replication\n- Melamine or plywood\n- Heat gun\n- Optional: paint, chopped fiberglass, shellac", + "text": "Before you start, it is important to note that there are some drawbacks to using this process. Plaster moulds are not long lasting - so this may not make sense as a common way to process plastic. \n\nHowever, it is a great way to inject large, solid products and can be used as a prototyping technique. For example - if you want to test the shape of a mould before it is milled into a block of aluminium. \n\nYou’ll need:\n-Extruder machine\n-Shredded plastic\n-Casting plaster\n-Mould release\n-A model or object to replicate\n-Melamine or plywood\n-Heat gun\n-Paint, chopped fibreglass, shellac (optional)\n", "_animationKey": "unique1" }, { @@ -137,11 +137,11 @@ "alt": "IMG_3519.jpg" } ], - "text": "Select a model or object to create your plaster mold around, such as a self-made model, a 3D print, or a toy. Determine the number of parts needed for your mold; for our project, a two-part mold was used.\n\nHere, the shape was cut from foam using a homemade hot wire and refined by hand sanding.\n\nEnsure a smooth surface, as imperfections will be visible in the final product. Keep sanding, filling, and painting as needed." + "text": "You’ll need a model or object to cast your plaster mould around. This could be anything - a model you made, a 3D print, your favourite toy. Consider how many parts your mould requires. Our product required a two part mould.\n\nIn this case, the desired shape was cut out of foam using a home made hot wire and hand sanding.\n\nPay close attention to the surface finish - if there are any small bumps or dents, these will show in the final product. If you care about this - keep sanding, filling and painting.\n" }, { "title": "Make a box to cast your mould", - "text": "Construct a box around your model, ensuring it is sealed and secure to prevent it from floating when plaster is poured. Melamine or plywood may be used for the box.\n\nConsider applying a mold release, such as petroleum jelly, to facilitate the release of the plaster.\n\nReference pins can be useful to ensure the molds align correctly later.", + "text": "Make a box around your model and ensure everything is sealed and secure (you don't want your model floating up when you pour the plaster). For the box, melamine works really well but you can also use plywood. \n\nYou might also want to use a mould release (vaseline works!) to make sure the plaster releases more easily. \n\nSome reference pins are also handy to make sure the moulds line up with each other later on.", "images": [ { "timeCreated": "2020-05-07T02:50:37.206Z", @@ -183,7 +183,7 @@ "_animationKey": "unique3" }, { - "text": "Mix the casting plaster following the manufacturer's instructions. Add chopped fiberglass for enhanced mold durability.\n\nPour the mixture into the box, filling it to twice the model's height.\n\nAfter pouring, tap the box with a hammer for a few minutes to release air pockets.\n\nLet the plaster cure for two days before demolding.", + "text": "Mix the casting plaster according to the manufacturer specifications. In this case, chopped fibreglass was added to the mix to increase the mould durability. \n\nPour the mix into the box - as a general rule, pour it to twice the height of the model. \n\nAs soon as you pour the mix, spend a few minutes taping the box with a hammer to make sure any air pockets rise to the surface.\n\nAllow the plaster to cure for a couple of days before you demould.", "title": "Mix and pour the plaster", "_animationKey": "uniquee6o9dq", "images": [ @@ -216,7 +216,7 @@ { "_animationKey": "unique6151ch", "title": "Air dry and seal", - "text": "After completing both parts of your mold, allow them to air dry for a few days until they are touch-dry and noticeably lighter. This indicates readiness for the next step.\n\nOptionally, apply a layer of shellac to the plaster surfaces. Once cured, use a mold release agent like silicone oil or petroleum jelly to prevent plastic from adhering, ensuring the mold's reusability.", + "text": "Now that you have both parts of your mould, it is best to let them air dry for a couple of days. You’ll feel when they’re touch dry (and they’ll be much lighter) - this means you are ready to progress.\n\nAs an extra step - you can add a layer of shellac on the plaster surfaces. When it cures, you can then add a mould release (silicone oil or vaseline). This will ensure plastic does not stick to your mould and you can use it again.", "images": [ { "name": "IMG_3599.jpg", @@ -257,7 +257,7 @@ ] }, { - "text": "### Preparing the Mold for Your Machine\n\n1. **Align and Clamp the Mold**: Secure the mold parts together so they are properly aligned.\n\n2. **Drill a Large Hole**: Create a large hole for attachment to the extruder machine.\n\n3. **Drill Indicator Holes**: Add smaller holes at various points to signal when the material reaches a certain level and to help relieve pressure buildup.", + "text": "Ok, time to prepare the mould for your machine. Clamp the parts of your mould together so that they align. In this case, a large hole was drilled to connect to the extruder machine. \n\nSome smaller holes were also drilled in various locations to act as indicators that the plastic has reached that point. They also help to prevent a build up of pressure.", "_animationKey": "unique9eztar", "images": [ { @@ -289,7 +289,7 @@ }, { "_animationKey": "uniquevbk1nl", - "text": "### Injection Molding Process\n\nDue to its slow nature, maintaining the mold's internal temperature is crucial. Ensure it remains heated; one effective method is by drilling large holes to allow hot air circulation from two heat guns.", + "text": "Since this is a slow injection moulding process, you’ll need to make sure the inside of the mould stays hot the whole time. This can be done a number of ways - in this case, large holes were drilled to circulate hot air through the mould from two heat guns.", "images": [ { "fullPath": "uploads/v3_howtos/1PwZ8Ikcj4QVCgF2NYtk/IMG_3666 copy.jpg", @@ -323,11 +323,11 @@ "alt": "IMG_3668 copy.jpg" } ], - "text": "Begin by heating your plaster mold. Simultaneously, activate the extruder and prepare the plastic. Once the mold is hot, commence the injection process. The duration may vary, ranging from a few minutes to several hours based on the product size. In this instance, it required approximately 2.5 hours to fill the mold.\n\nWhen the plastic reaches all reference points, indicating full injection, switch off the heat guns and extruder. Plug all holes to preserve pressure within the mold." + "text": "Ok, you’re almost ready to inject. Start heating your plaster mould. While that’s heating, fire up your extruder and prepare your plastic. When your mould is hot, you can start injecting. This could take anywhere from a few minutes to a few hours depending on the size of your product. In this case, the injection process took about 2.5 hours to fill the mould.\n\nWhen plastic has reached all of your reference points (those little holes you drilled earlier) that means your product is fully injected. At this point, turn off your heat guns and extruder. You also need to plug all of the holes to maintain pressure inside the mould." }, { "title": "Demould", - "text": "Allow the product to cool at room temperature, which may take up to 12 hours due to the insulating properties of plaster. Carefully demould your product, ensuring the mold remains intact for future use.", + "text": "You'll have to wait a while for everything to cool down at room temperature. The plaster will insulate the heat so this could take up to 12 hours depending on the size of your product.\n\nDemould your product and be careful to preserve your mould so you can use it again!", "_animationKey": "uniquebd8hjd", "images": [ { @@ -373,7 +373,7 @@ "alt": "stool-detail.jpg" } ], - "text": "If completed correctly, minimal post-processing is needed. Remove the injection point and relief channels. Clean the part line with a knife to reuse the shavings." + "text": "If you've done everything properly, there will only be minimal post processing required. This involves cutting off the injection point and the relief channels. \n\nYou can also clean up the part line. We recommend doing this with a knife so you can recycle the shavings again!" }, { "images": [ @@ -402,15 +402,11 @@ "alt": "michael-makes-stool-2.jpg" } ], - "text": "A time-consuming but effective low-tech mold-making technique. It cannot replace machined molds but is useful for prototyping larger, more organic shapes. This tutorial results in a stool crafted from old polypropylene chairs, showcasing the technique's potential for unique designs.\n\nYou can adjust the contrast by varying the colors of the plastics you feed into the extruder. In this tutorial, similar colors were used, resulting in minimal contrast, but this can be controlled to achieve the desired appearance.", + "text": "A little time consuming but a nice low tech mould making technique. It will never replace machined moulds, but can definitely be useful for prototyping larger, more organic shapes.\nHere’s our final product - a stool made from old polypropylene chairs. But the possibilities are endless.\n\nOne thing that you could change is the contrast between the plastics you feed into the extruder. In this case, the colour choices were quite similar so there isn’t much contrast. This is something that can definitely be controlled depending on the look you are going for.", "title": "That's it!", "_animationKey": "uniqueesu7hp" } ], "fileLink": "", - "content": "This guide details the process of creating and using plaster molds, an effective method for crafting larger, intricate products.\n\n## Overview\n\nPlaster molds have a limited lifespan and may not be suitable for regular use in plastic processing. However, they are useful for producing large, solid items and as a prototyping method to test mold designs before milling them into aluminum blocks.\n\n## Required Materials\n\n- Extruder machine\n- Shredded plastic\n- Casting plaster\n- Mold release agent\n- Model or object for replication\n- Melamine or plywood\n- Heat gun\n- Optional: paint, chopped fiberglass, shellac\n\nSelect a model or object to create your plaster mold around, such as a self-made model, a 3D print, or a toy. Determine the number of parts needed for your mold; for our project, a two-part mold was used.\n\nHere, the shape was cut from foam using a homemade hot wire and refined by hand sanding.\n\nEnsure a smooth surface, as imperfections will be visible in the final product. Keep sanding, filling, and painting as needed.\n\nConstruct a box around your model, ensuring it is sealed and secure to prevent it from floating when plaster is poured. Melamine or plywood may be used for the box.\n\nConsider applying a mold release, such as petroleum jelly, to facilitate the release of the plaster.\n\nReference pins can be useful to ensure the molds align correctly later.\n\nMix the casting plaster following the manufacturer's instructions. Add chopped fiberglass for enhanced mold durability.\n\nPour the mixture into the box, filling it to twice the model's height.\n\nAfter pouring, tap the box with a hammer for a few minutes to release air pockets.\n\nLet the plaster cure for two days before demolding.\n\nAfter completing both parts of your mold, allow them to air dry for a few days until they are touch-dry and noticeably lighter. This indicates readiness for the next step.\n\nOptionally, apply a layer of shellac to the plaster surfaces. Once cured, use a mold release agent like silicone oil or petroleum jelly to prevent plastic from adhering, ensuring the mold's reusability.\n\n### Preparing the Mold for Your Machine\n\n1. **Align and Clamp the Mold**: Secure the mold parts together so they are properly aligned.\n\n2. **Drill a Large Hole**: Create a large hole for attachment to the extruder machine.\n\n3. **Drill Indicator Holes**: Add smaller holes at various points to signal when the material reaches a certain level and to help relieve pressure buildup.\n\n### Injection Molding Process\n\nDue to its slow nature, maintaining the mold's internal temperature is crucial. Ensure it remains heated; one effective method is by drilling large holes to allow hot air circulation from two heat guns.\n\nBegin by heating your plaster mold. Simultaneously, activate the extruder and prepare the plastic. Once the mold is hot, commence the injection process. The duration may vary, ranging from a few minutes to several hours based on the product size. In this instance, it required approximately 2.5 hours to fill the mold.\n\nWhen the plastic reaches all reference points, indicating full injection, switch off the heat guns and extruder. Plug all holes to preserve pressure within the mold.\n\nAllow the product to cool at room temperature, which may take up to 12 hours due to the insulating properties of plaster. Carefully demould your product, ensuring the mold remains intact for future use.\n\nIf completed correctly, minimal post-processing is needed. Remove the injection point and relief channels. Clean the part line with a knife to reuse the shavings.\n\nA time-consuming but effective low-tech mold-making technique. It cannot replace machined molds but is useful for prototyping larger, more organic shapes. This tutorial results in a stool crafted from old polypropylene chairs, showcasing the technique's potential for unique designs.\n\nYou can adjust the contrast by varying the colors of the plastics you feed into the extruder. In this tutorial, similar colors were used, resulting in minimal contrast, but this can be controlled to achieve the desired appearance.", - "keywords": "plaster molds, mold making, prototyping, injection molding, plastic processing, casting plaster, mold release agent, extrusion machine, handmade molds, low-tech mold-making", - "resources": "### Tools\n\n- Extruder machine\n- Heat gun (2 units recommended)\n- Drill (large and indicator holes)\n- Hammer (air bubble removal)\n- Homemade hot wire (foam shaping)\n\n### Hardware\n\n- Melamine/plywood mold box\n- Clamps (mold alignment)\n- Reference pins\n- Heat-resistant materials (mold handling)\n- Fiberglass-reinforced plaster (optional durability)\n\n### Materials\n\n- Casting plaster\n- Shredded plastic\n- Mold release agent (silicone oil/petroleum jelly)\n- Shellac (optional surface treatment)\n- Chopped fiberglass (optional additive)\n\n### Software\n\n- 3D design software (optional for digital models)", - "references": "## References\n\n### Articles\n\n- [Plaster Casting: What It Is, How It Works, Uses, Process](https://www.xometry.com/resources/casting/plaster-casting/)\n- [Multi-Section Plaster Mold-Making Instructions](http://bryanyerian.blogspot.com/2012/05/multi-section-plaster-mold-making-from.html)\n- [Rubber Plaster Molding for Metal Castings](https://www.armstrongrm.com/pages/rpm.html)\n- [9 Mistakes to Avoid When Designing Injection Molded Parts](https://www.protolabs.com/resources/design-tips/9-mistakes-to-avoid-when-designing-injection-molded-parts/)\n- [Body Casting Tutorial: Hydrogel Mold & Cold Cast Bronze Casting](https://polytek.com/tutorial/body-casting-tutorial-hydrogel-mold-cold-cast-bronze-casting)\n- [Thrifty Plaster Molds and Streamlined Processes](https://ceramicartsnetwork.org/daily/article/how-to-make-thrifty-plaster-molds-and-streamline-your-processes)\n- [Injection Molding Process Guide](https://sybridge.com/injection-molding-guide/)\n- [Step-by-Step Mold Making Guide](https://www.artmolds.com/blogs/mold-making/how-to-make-molds-the-step-by-step-process)\n- [Plaster Mold Casting Services & Process](https://sinotech.com/products/formed-metal-parts/plaster-mold-castings/)\n\n### Books\n\n- ~~[Mold Making and Casting Guide Book](https://composimold.com/mold-making-and-casting-guide/)~~\n- [The Mold-Making Manual](https://highwaterclays.com/products/the-mold-making-manual)\n- [The Essential Guide to Mold Making & Slip Casting](https://www.barnesandnoble.com/w/the-essential-guide-to-mold-making-slip-casting-andrew-martin/1100907494)\n\n### YouTube\n\n- [How to Make a Plaster Injection Mold](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vJ6mS74ol8E)\n- [Automating 3D Design for Plaster Molds](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9SYBEfq-jt4)\n- [Custom 3D Printed Mold for Plaster](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cmC7SQwdXMQ)\n\n### Papers\n\n- [Shape Cast: Automating 3D Design for Plaster Molds in Ceramic Slip Casting](https://programs.sigchi.org/chi/2024/program/content/150482)\n\n### Open-Source Designs\n\n- [Mold Creation Tutorial for Molding & Casting](https://class.textile-academy.org/2022/olatz-pereda/projects/00_04_mold_creation_molding_casting/)", - "brief": "Learn to create plaster molds for prototyping intricate designs before machining. This guide covers materials, mold-making, and injection processes step-by-step." + "content": "Here, we outline the process of making and using plaster moulds. It’s a great low tech way of making larger, more complex products. \n\nBefore you start, it is important to note that there are some drawbacks to using this process. Plaster moulds are not long lasting - so this may not make sense as a common way to process plastic. \n\nHowever, it is a great way to inject large, solid products and can be used as a prototyping technique. For example - if you want to test the shape of a mould before it is milled into a block of aluminium. \n\nYou’ll need:\n-Extruder machine\n-Shredded plastic\n-Casting plaster\n-Mould release\n-A model or object to replicate\n-Melamine or plywood\n-Heat gun\n-Paint, chopped fibreglass, shellac (optional)\n\n\nYou’ll need a model or object to cast your plaster mould around. This could be anything - a model you made, a 3D print, your favourite toy. Consider how many parts your mould requires. Our product required a two part mould.\n\nIn this case, the desired shape was cut out of foam using a home made hot wire and hand sanding.\n\nPay close attention to the surface finish - if there are any small bumps or dents, these will show in the final product. If you care about this - keep sanding, filling and painting.\n\n\nMake a box around your model and ensure everything is sealed and secure (you don't want your model floating up when you pour the plaster). For the box, melamine works really well but you can also use plywood. \n\nYou might also want to use a mould release (vaseline works!) to make sure the plaster releases more easily. \n\nSome reference pins are also handy to make sure the moulds line up with each other later on.\n\nMix the casting plaster according to the manufacturer specifications. In this case, chopped fibreglass was added to the mix to increase the mould durability. \n\nPour the mix into the box - as a general rule, pour it to twice the height of the model. \n\nAs soon as you pour the mix, spend a few minutes taping the box with a hammer to make sure any air pockets rise to the surface.\n\nAllow the plaster to cure for a couple of days before you demould.\n\nNow that you have both parts of your mould, it is best to let them air dry for a couple of days. You’ll feel when they’re touch dry (and they’ll be much lighter) - this means you are ready to progress.\n\nAs an extra step - you can add a layer of shellac on the plaster surfaces. When it cures, you can then add a mould release (silicone oil or vaseline). This will ensure plastic does not stick to your mould and you can use it again.\n\nOk, time to prepare the mould for your machine. Clamp the parts of your mould together so that they align. In this case, a large hole was drilled to connect to the extruder machine. \n\nSome smaller holes were also drilled in various locations to act as indicators that the plastic has reached that point. They also help to prevent a build up of pressure.\n\nSince this is a slow injection moulding process, you’ll need to make sure the inside of the mould stays hot the whole time. This can be done a number of ways - in this case, large holes were drilled to circulate hot air through the mould from two heat guns.\n\nOk, you’re almost ready to inject. Start heating your plaster mould. While that’s heating, fire up your extruder and prepare your plastic. When your mould is hot, you can start injecting. This could take anywhere from a few minutes to a few hours depending on the size of your product. In this case, the injection process took about 2.5 hours to fill the mould.\n\nWhen plastic has reached all of your reference points (those little holes you drilled earlier) that means your product is fully injected. At this point, turn off your heat guns and extruder. You also need to plug all of the holes to maintain pressure inside the mould.\n\nYou'll have to wait a while for everything to cool down at room temperature. The plaster will insulate the heat so this could take up to 12 hours depending on the size of your product.\n\nDemould your product and be careful to preserve your mould so you can use it again!\n\nIf you've done everything properly, there will only be minimal post processing required. This involves cutting off the injection point and the relief channels. \n\nYou can also clean up the part line. We recommend doing this with a knife so you can recycle the shavings again!\n\nA little time consuming but a nice low tech mould making technique. It will never replace machined moulds, but can definitely be useful for prototyping larger, more organic shapes.\nHere’s our final product - a stool made from old polypropylene chairs. But the possibilities are endless.\n\nOne thing that you could change is the contrast between the plastics you feed into the extruder. In this case, the colour choices were quite similar so there isn’t much contrast. This is something that can definitely be controlled depending on the look you are going for." } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/make-plastic-yarn-plarn-from-a-plastic-carry-bag/README.md b/howtos/make-plastic-yarn-plarn-from-a-plastic-carry-bag/README.md index 2ca5198d0..ae7ed72e4 100644 --- a/howtos/make-plastic-yarn-plarn-from-a-plastic-carry-bag/README.md +++ b/howtos/make-plastic-yarn-plarn-from-a-plastic-carry-bag/README.md @@ -1,41 +1,45 @@ --- title: Make plastic yarn (plarn) from a plastic carry bag slug: make-plastic-yarn-plarn-from-a-plastic-carry-bag -description: This technique produces a continuous strand of yarn without knots. +description: With this technique we will get a single, continuous, seamless strand of yarn without any joining knots. -You will need a plastic bag, scissors, and any small weight, such as a mobile phone. +All you will need is a plastic bag, a pair of scissors and any object that can be used as a weight (your mobile phone will do!). -Once you have the yarn, you can use it for knitting, crochet, weaving, macramé, or braiding. +Once you have this yarn you can apply any handcrafted technique - knitting, crochet, weaving, macramé or braiding! tags: ["LDPE","HDPE"] category: Guides difficulty: Easy time: < 1 hour -keywords: plastic bag yarn, yarn making from plastic bags, DIY yarn creation, plastic yarn cutting technique, continuous plastic yarn, eco-friendly knitting materials, recycled yarn crafting, upcycled yarn, yarn from plastic bags tutorial, homemade yarn from bags +keywords: location: --- # Make plastic yarn (plarn) from a plastic carry bag ![Make plastic yarn (plarn) from a plastic carry bag](for-pp.jpg) -This technique produces a continuous strand of yarn without knots. +With this technique we will get a single, continuous, seamless strand of yarn without any joining knots. -You will need a plastic bag, scissors, and any small weight, such as a mobile phone. +All you will need is a plastic bag, a pair of scissors and any object that can be used as a weight (your mobile phone will do!). -Once you have the yarn, you can use it for knitting, crochet, weaving, macramé, or braiding. +Once you have this yarn you can apply any handcrafted technique - knitting, crochet, weaving, macramé or braiding! ## Steps ### Step 1: Video Tutorial -This video outlines the complete process. +This video explains the entire process. -After viewing, follow the detailed steps below to create your yarn. +Once you watch it, you can follow the detailed steps below to make your yarn. + +Enjoy! ### Step 2: Cutting off the Seam -**Image 1:** +Image 1: -A plastic bag consists of the seam, body, and handles. Familiarity with these terms aids in yarn-making. +Let's consider the plastic bag to be made up of the seam, the body and the handles. Knowing these terms will help us during the process of making the yarn. -**Image 2:** -Flatten the plastic bag and eliminate all creases. Remove the seam. +Image 2: + +Start by flattening the plastic bag and removing all the creases. +Cut off the seam. ![01.jpg](./01.jpg) @@ -45,17 +49,22 @@ Flatten the plastic bag and eliminate all creases. Remove the seam. ### Step 3: Folding the Bag -### Image 3: +Image 3: -Most plastic bags have two flaps or folds. If your bag does not, skip steps associated with Images 3 and 4. +You will notice that your bag has 2 flaps or folds. +(Most plastic bags have it, but if yours doesn't, then Image 3 and Image 4 do not apply.) -### Image 4: -Fold the flap furthest from you inward. +Image 4: -### Image 5: +Take the flap that is away from you and fold it in, towards you. -Fold the bag in half, leaving a margin of about 1 to 2 inches (3 to 5 cm). Repeat the fold a few more times. If the bag is thick, reduce the number of folds to make cutting easier. + +Image 5: + +Now, fold the bag in half, not all the way to the end but leaving a margin of about 3 to 5 cm. +Fold it a couple of times more. +If your plastic bag is thick, you can fold it a fewer times so that it is easier to cut. ![03.jpg](./03.jpg) @@ -70,30 +79,42 @@ Fold the bag in half, leaving a margin of about 1 to 2 inches (3 to 5 cm). Repea Image 6: -Place a weight on the bag handles. Cut parallel to the bag length, stopping before the end. Cut to the handles and remove them. +Place a weight at the end of the bag, on the handles. +We will be cutting parallelly along the length of the bag, not all the way till the end but until the margin. +Make cuts all the way until the handles. Cut the handles off. + +Note: +- Make cuts roughly at an equal distance from each other to get a yarn of uniform thickness. +- You can cut the yarn as thick as you like depending on your project. In the video, I have cut the yarn about 1.5 cm apart which is good to crochet with with a 3 mm hook. If you would like to make something chunkier, you can cut it 5 - 8 cm apart. Of course, the thickness of the yarn also depends on the thickness of the bag, so just play around! + -Note: -- Make evenly spaced cuts for uniform yarn thickness. -- Adjust yarn thickness as needed for your project. In the example, the yarn was cut 0.6 inches (1.5 cm) apart for use with a 0.12-inch (3 mm) hook. For thicker yarn, cut 2-3 inches (5-8 cm) apart. Yarn thickness also varies with bag thickness, so experiment as needed. ![06.jpg](./06.jpg) ### Step 5: Making the Diagonal Cuts -**Image 7:** +Image 7: -Unfold the bag's strips. +Unfold the strips of the bag. -**Image 8:** -Unfold the margin area. +Image 8: -**Image 9:** +Open out & unfold the margin area. -Instead of cutting parallel, cut diagonally to create a continuous spiral. Begin by removing the first end toward you. Next, cut from the second cut in front of you to the first cut on the far side. Repeat until reaching the end, and remove the last end. -The yarn is ready. Wind it into a ball or around a bobbin. +Image 9: + +Instead if cutting parallelly, we will be cutting diagonally so that we get a continuous spiral. +Start by cutting the the first end off, the cut that is towards you. +Now cut from the 2nd cut towards you to the 1st cut on the other side, away from you. +Keep doing this until you reach the end. Cut the last end off. + + +And the yarn is ready, hooray! +Ball it up or wind it around a bobbin. + ![07.jpg](./07.jpg) @@ -105,37 +126,4 @@ The yarn is ready. Wind it into a ball or around a bobbin. ![09.jpg](./09.jpg) ## Resources -### Tools - -- Scissors -- Bobbin or ball (for winding yarn) - -### Hardware - -- Plastic bag -- Small weight (mobile phone, etc.) - -(No software required for this technique) - -Key items explicitly listed in the tutorial include basic crafting tools and repurposed household objects. The weight stabilizes the bag during cutting[1], while scissors enable precise strips[2]. Winding tools help manage the finished yarn[3]. -## References -## References - -### Articles - -- [Making Plastic Bag Yarn (Plarn!) - Warped Fibers](https://warpedfibers.com/plastic-bag-yarn/) -- [How to Make Plarn (Plastic Bag Yarn) for Knitting and Crocheting - Instructables](https://www.instructables.com/How-to-Make-Plarn-Plastic-Bag-Yarn-For-Knitting-/) -- ~~[Crochet with Plastic Bags - Skillshare](https://www.skillshare.com/en/classes/crochet-with-plastic-bags-reuse-bags-to-make-a-colorful-bag-and-jar-covers/1394706330)~~ -- [How to Make Plarn (Plastic Yarn) - String Theory Yarn Company](https://stringtheoryyarncompany.com/blogs/news/how-to-make-plarn-plastic-yarn) -- [How to make Plarn from Grocery Bags - Jeddah Mom](https://www.jeddahmom.com/how-to-make-plarn-from-grocery-bags/) -- [Plarn Sun Catchers - Wineberry Wood Press](https://www.wineberrywoodpress.com/2023/06/16/plarn-sun-catchers/) - -### YouTube - -- [Turn Plastic Shopping Bags into Yarn or Plarn! - YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r7k4U_J_FpY) -- [How to Make Plastic Yarn (Plarn) for Crochet and Weaving - YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yUBqWtcwRH8) -- [Quick & Easy Yarn from Plastic Bags | Plarn Tutorial - YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bFjCRmB275M) - -### Papers - -- [Could we recycle plastic bags into fabrics of the future? - MIT](https://sustainability.mit.edu/article/could-we-recycle-plastic-bags-fabrics-future) \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/make-plastic-yarn-plarn-from-a-plastic-carry-bag/config.json b/howtos/make-plastic-yarn-plarn-from-a-plastic-carry-bag/config.json index ffc8952f0..d428b77dd 100644 --- a/howtos/make-plastic-yarn-plarn-from-a-plastic-carry-bag/config.json +++ b/howtos/make-plastic-yarn-plarn-from-a-plastic-carry-bag/config.json @@ -55,12 +55,12 @@ "title": "Video Tutorial", "images": [], "_animationKey": "unique1", - "text": "This video outlines the complete process.\n\nAfter viewing, follow the detailed steps below to create your yarn.", + "text": "This video explains the entire process. \n\nOnce you watch it, you can follow the detailed steps below to make your yarn.\n\nEnjoy!", "videoUrl": "https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s7EhJsWISp4&t=2s" }, { "title": "Cutting off the Seam", - "text": "**Image 1:**\n\nA plastic bag consists of the seam, body, and handles. Familiarity with these terms aids in yarn-making.\n\n**Image 2:**\n\nFlatten the plastic bag and eliminate all creases. Remove the seam.", + "text": "Image 1:\n\nLet's consider the plastic bag to be made up of the seam, the body and the handles. Knowing these terms will help us during the process of making the yarn.\n\n\nImage 2:\n\nStart by flattening the plastic bag and removing all the creases.\nCut off the seam.", "images": [ { "updated": "2021-02-27T12:48:05.615Z", @@ -130,7 +130,7 @@ } ], "title": "Folding the Bag", - "text": "### Image 3:\n\nMost plastic bags have two flaps or folds. If your bag does not, skip steps associated with Images 3 and 4.\n\n### Image 4:\n\nFold the flap furthest from you inward.\n\n### Image 5:\n\nFold the bag in half, leaving a margin of about 1 to 2 inches (3 to 5 cm). Repeat the fold a few more times. If the bag is thick, reduce the number of folds to make cutting easier." + "text": "Image 3:\n\nYou will notice that your bag has 2 flaps or folds. \n(Most plastic bags have it, but if yours doesn't, then Image 3 and Image 4 do not apply.)\n\n\nImage 4:\n\nTake the flap that is away from you and fold it in, towards you.\n\n\nImage 5:\n\nNow, fold the bag in half, not all the way to the end but leaving a margin of about 3 to 5 cm.\nFold it a couple of times more.\nIf your plastic bag is thick, you can fold it a fewer times so that it is easier to cut." }, { "images": [ @@ -147,7 +147,7 @@ "alt": "06.jpg" } ], - "text": "Image 6:\n\nPlace a weight on the bag handles. Cut parallel to the bag length, stopping before the end. Cut to the handles and remove them.\n\nNote:\n- Make evenly spaced cuts for uniform yarn thickness.\n- Adjust yarn thickness as needed for your project. In the example, the yarn was cut 0.6 inches (1.5 cm) apart for use with a 0.12-inch (3 mm) hook. For thicker yarn, cut 2-3 inches (5-8 cm) apart. Yarn thickness also varies with bag thickness, so experiment as needed.", + "text": "Image 6:\n\nPlace a weight at the end of the bag, on the handles.\nWe will be cutting parallelly along the length of the bag, not all the way till the end but until the margin.\nMake cuts all the way until the handles. Cut the handles off.\n\nNote: \n- Make cuts roughly at an equal distance from each other to get a yarn of uniform thickness.\n- You can cut the yarn as thick as you like depending on your project. In the video, I have cut the yarn about 1.5 cm apart which is good to crochet with with a 3 mm hook. If you would like to make something chunkier, you can cut it 5 - 8 cm apart. Of course, the thickness of the yarn also depends on the thickness of the bag, so just play around!\n\n", "title": "Cutting the Strips", "_animationKey": "uniquebvqsk" }, @@ -192,13 +192,9 @@ } ], "title": "Making the Diagonal Cuts", - "text": "**Image 7:**\n\nUnfold the bag's strips.\n\n**Image 8:**\n\nUnfold the margin area.\n\n**Image 9:**\n\nInstead of cutting parallel, cut diagonally to create a continuous spiral. Begin by removing the first end toward you. Next, cut from the second cut in front of you to the first cut on the far side. Repeat until reaching the end, and remove the last end.\n\nThe yarn is ready. Wind it into a ball or around a bobbin." + "text": "Image 7:\n\nUnfold the strips of the bag.\n\n\nImage 8:\n\nOpen out & unfold the margin area.\n\n\nImage 9:\n\nInstead if cutting parallelly, we will be cutting diagonally so that we get a continuous spiral.\nStart by cutting the the first end off, the cut that is towards you.\nNow cut from the 2nd cut towards you to the 1st cut on the other side, away from you. \nKeep doing this until you reach the end. Cut the last end off.\n\n\nAnd the yarn is ready, hooray! \nBall it up or wind it around a bobbin.\n" } ], - "description": "This technique produces a continuous strand of yarn without knots.\n\nYou will need a plastic bag, scissors, and any small weight, such as a mobile phone.\n\nOnce you have the yarn, you can use it for knitting, crochet, weaving, macramé, or braiding.", - "content": "This technique produces a continuous strand of yarn without knots.\n\nYou will need a plastic bag, scissors, and any small weight, such as a mobile phone.\n\nOnce you have the yarn, you can use it for knitting, crochet, weaving, macramé, or braiding.\n\nThis video outlines the complete process.\n\nAfter viewing, follow the detailed steps below to create your yarn.\n\n**Image 1:**\n\nA plastic bag consists of the seam, body, and handles. Familiarity with these terms aids in yarn-making.\n\n**Image 2:**\n\nFlatten the plastic bag and eliminate all creases. Remove the seam.\n\n### Image 3:\n\nMost plastic bags have two flaps or folds. If your bag does not, skip steps associated with Images 3 and 4.\n\n### Image 4:\n\nFold the flap furthest from you inward.\n\n### Image 5:\n\nFold the bag in half, leaving a margin of about 1 to 2 inches (3 to 5 cm). Repeat the fold a few more times. If the bag is thick, reduce the number of folds to make cutting easier.\n\nImage 6:\n\nPlace a weight on the bag handles. Cut parallel to the bag length, stopping before the end. Cut to the handles and remove them.\n\nNote:\n- Make evenly spaced cuts for uniform yarn thickness.\n- Adjust yarn thickness as needed for your project. In the example, the yarn was cut 0.6 inches (1.5 cm) apart for use with a 0.12-inch (3 mm) hook. For thicker yarn, cut 2-3 inches (5-8 cm) apart. Yarn thickness also varies with bag thickness, so experiment as needed.\n\n**Image 7:**\n\nUnfold the bag's strips.\n\n**Image 8:**\n\nUnfold the margin area.\n\n**Image 9:**\n\nInstead of cutting parallel, cut diagonally to create a continuous spiral. Begin by removing the first end toward you. Next, cut from the second cut in front of you to the first cut on the far side. Repeat until reaching the end, and remove the last end.\n\nThe yarn is ready. Wind it into a ball or around a bobbin.", - "keywords": "plastic bag yarn, yarn making from plastic bags, DIY yarn creation, plastic yarn cutting technique, continuous plastic yarn, eco-friendly knitting materials, recycled yarn crafting, upcycled yarn, yarn from plastic bags tutorial, homemade yarn from bags", - "resources": "### Tools\n\n- Scissors\n- Bobbin or ball (for winding yarn)\n\n### Hardware\n\n- Plastic bag\n- Small weight (mobile phone, etc.)\n\n(No software required for this technique)\n\nKey items explicitly listed in the tutorial include basic crafting tools and repurposed household objects. The weight stabilizes the bag during cutting[1], while scissors enable precise strips[2]. Winding tools help manage the finished yarn[3].", - "references": "## References\n\n### Articles\n\n- [Making Plastic Bag Yarn (Plarn!) - Warped Fibers](https://warpedfibers.com/plastic-bag-yarn/)\n- [How to Make Plarn (Plastic Bag Yarn) for Knitting and Crocheting - Instructables](https://www.instructables.com/How-to-Make-Plarn-Plastic-Bag-Yarn-For-Knitting-/)\n- ~~[Crochet with Plastic Bags - Skillshare](https://www.skillshare.com/en/classes/crochet-with-plastic-bags-reuse-bags-to-make-a-colorful-bag-and-jar-covers/1394706330)~~\n- [How to Make Plarn (Plastic Yarn) - String Theory Yarn Company](https://stringtheoryyarncompany.com/blogs/news/how-to-make-plarn-plastic-yarn)\n- [How to make Plarn from Grocery Bags - Jeddah Mom](https://www.jeddahmom.com/how-to-make-plarn-from-grocery-bags/)\n- [Plarn Sun Catchers - Wineberry Wood Press](https://www.wineberrywoodpress.com/2023/06/16/plarn-sun-catchers/)\n\n### YouTube\n\n- [Turn Plastic Shopping Bags into Yarn or Plarn! - YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r7k4U_J_FpY)\n- [How to Make Plastic Yarn (Plarn) for Crochet and Weaving - YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yUBqWtcwRH8)\n- [Quick & Easy Yarn from Plastic Bags | Plarn Tutorial - YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bFjCRmB275M)\n\n### Papers\n\n- [Could we recycle plastic bags into fabrics of the future? - MIT](https://sustainability.mit.edu/article/could-we-recycle-plastic-bags-fabrics-future)", - "brief": "Learn to make continuous yarn from plastic bags for knitting, crochet, or macramé. Follow detailed steps to cut and fold for perfect thickness." + "description": "With this technique we will get a single, continuous, seamless strand of yarn without any joining knots.\n\nAll you will need is a plastic bag, a pair of scissors and any object that can be used as a weight (your mobile phone will do!).\n\nOnce you have this yarn you can apply any handcrafted technique - knitting, crochet, weaving, macramé or braiding! ", + "content": "With this technique we will get a single, continuous, seamless strand of yarn without any joining knots.\n\nAll you will need is a plastic bag, a pair of scissors and any object that can be used as a weight (your mobile phone will do!).\n\nOnce you have this yarn you can apply any handcrafted technique - knitting, crochet, weaving, macramé or braiding! \n\nThis video explains the entire process. \n\nOnce you watch it, you can follow the detailed steps below to make your yarn.\n\nEnjoy!\n\nImage 1:\n\nLet's consider the plastic bag to be made up of the seam, the body and the handles. Knowing these terms will help us during the process of making the yarn.\n\n\nImage 2:\n\nStart by flattening the plastic bag and removing all the creases.\nCut off the seam.\n\nImage 3:\n\nYou will notice that your bag has 2 flaps or folds. \n(Most plastic bags have it, but if yours doesn't, then Image 3 and Image 4 do not apply.)\n\n\nImage 4:\n\nTake the flap that is away from you and fold it in, towards you.\n\n\nImage 5:\n\nNow, fold the bag in half, not all the way to the end but leaving a margin of about 3 to 5 cm.\nFold it a couple of times more.\nIf your plastic bag is thick, you can fold it a fewer times so that it is easier to cut.\n\nImage 6:\n\nPlace a weight at the end of the bag, on the handles.\nWe will be cutting parallelly along the length of the bag, not all the way till the end but until the margin.\nMake cuts all the way until the handles. Cut the handles off.\n\nNote: \n- Make cuts roughly at an equal distance from each other to get a yarn of uniform thickness.\n- You can cut the yarn as thick as you like depending on your project. In the video, I have cut the yarn about 1.5 cm apart which is good to crochet with with a 3 mm hook. If you would like to make something chunkier, you can cut it 5 - 8 cm apart. Of course, the thickness of the yarn also depends on the thickness of the bag, so just play around!\n\n\n\nImage 7:\n\nUnfold the strips of the bag.\n\n\nImage 8:\n\nOpen out & unfold the margin area.\n\n\nImage 9:\n\nInstead if cutting parallelly, we will be cutting diagonally so that we get a continuous spiral.\nStart by cutting the the first end off, the cut that is towards you.\nNow cut from the 2nd cut towards you to the 1st cut on the other side, away from you. \nKeep doing this until you reach the end. Cut the last end off.\n\n\nAnd the yarn is ready, hooray! \nBall it up or wind it around a bobbin.\n" } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/make-some-colorful-plant-pots/README.md b/howtos/make-some-colorful-plant-pots/README.md index 8abb6e11e..2c4d7aeab 100644 --- a/howtos/make-some-colorful-plant-pots/README.md +++ b/howtos/make-some-colorful-plant-pots/README.md @@ -1,28 +1,28 @@ --- title: Make some Colorful Plant Pots slug: make-some-colorful-plant-pots -description: Let's transform plastic into vibrant plant pots. +description: Let's try to recycle some plastic into beautifully colorful plant pots. tags: ["product","mould","compression"] category: Products difficulty: Easy time: < 5 hours -keywords: plastic recycling, DIY plant pots, sustainable gardening, silicone molds, upcycling crafts, recycled planters, eco-friendly materials, homemade flower pots, Munich gardening, reducing plastic waste +keywords: location: Munich, Germany --- # Make some Colorful Plant Pots ![Make some Colorful Plant Pots](F8WEQTXKQ6MQD59.jpg) -Let's transform plastic into vibrant plant pots. +Let's try to recycle some plastic into beautifully colorful plant pots. User Location: Munich, Germany ## Steps ### Step 1: Requirements -To create pots, you need the following materials and tools: +To create our pots, we need the following things & tools: * Leftover plastics (sorted by type and color) * Silicone molds -These molds, typically used for concrete casting, withstand temperatures up to 200°C (392°F). Search for "concrete silicone mold" on online marketplaces. -* An oven, such as a compression oven, is used only for its heating function. +The molds we used are intended for concrete casting, but as silicone is quite heat resistant, they work perfectly well with up to 200°C, sometimes even more. Just search for "Concrete silicone mold" on Amazon, eBay, Aliexpress, or wherever you like to shop online. +* An oven, like the compression oven. We won't use the actual compression part, just the heat. ![F8AA09WKQ6MQD94.jpg](./F8AA09WKQ6MQD94.jpg) @@ -32,7 +32,7 @@ These molds, typically used for concrete casting, withstand temperatures up to 2 ### Step 2: Preparing Your Plastic -Plastic must be reduced to smaller pieces to fit silicone molds. Use a shredder if available or alternative tools like a hammer (for brittle plastic), shears, or bandsaws to downsize. Precision isn't crucial as the plastic will melt to conform to the mold. Experiment with color patterns based on the piece sizes used. +We need to have the plastic in small enough pieces so we can fill our silicone moulds. If you have a shredder, use that. If you don't, use a hammer (on brittle plastic), shears, bandsaws, whatever works to get them down in size. It doesn't need to be super small, since it will melt into the mould, and you can experiment with patterns of colors, depending on the size of the pieces you put in. ![F5L2YJJKQ6MQDSV.jpg](./F5L2YJJKQ6MQDSV.jpg) @@ -42,9 +42,9 @@ Plastic must be reduced to smaller pieces to fit silicone molds. Use a shredder ### Step 3: Filling Up the Molds -Once your plastic is ready, densely pack it into your silicone molds. Consider using creative color combinations. For instance, we suggest a mix of green/yellow and blue/red. +With your plastic properly prepared, squeeze in as much as you can into your silicone molds. Think of some funky color combinations. Here we're going for a mix of green/yellow and blue/red. -Ideally, the plastic should collapse into itself as it melts without spilling over the mold, ensuring minimal supervision is required during the heating process. +Ideally, the plastic can collapse in onto itself while melting, and not drip outside of your mold. That just means there's less for you to worry about while it's in the oven. ![FCISVBQKQ6MQDUG.jpg](./FCISVBQKQ6MQDUG.jpg) @@ -57,9 +57,9 @@ Ideally, the plastic should collapse into itself as it melts without spilling ov ### Step 4: Filling the Oven -Preheat your oven to the specified temperature for your plastic type before inserting the filled molds. +With your oven preheated at the target temperature for your type of plastic, it's time to pop the filled molds into the heat. -For PLA, use a temperature range of 170-180°C (338-356°F). Oven temperatures can vary, so begin on the lower end and adjust as necessary. Refer to your filament supplier's datasheets for temperature guidelines on other 3D printing plastics. +We're using PLA, with a temperature of 170-180°C. This might be different for your oven also, so start a little on the cool side and work your way up. The [filtered] Download Pack has a good reference poster for some other common types of plastics. For 3D printing plastics, check out the datasheets by your filament supplier. ![FE2XV94KQ6MQE1A.jpg](./FE2XV94KQ6MQE1A.jpg) @@ -72,11 +72,11 @@ For PLA, use a temperature range of 170-180°C (338-356°F). Oven temperatures c ### Step 5: Melting, Squishing, Refilling -Monitor your molds consistently, particularly when they are filled to capacity. Watch for any plastic overflowing the edges. If this occurs, carefully remove the mold while wearing welding gloves and use a flat-head screwdriver to push the plastic back inside. +Now you need to keep a constant eye on your molds. Especially if they're stacked quite full, always look for plastic trying to drip over the sides. In that case, take out the mold (wear welding gloves), and push the plastic back into the mold using a flat-head screwdriver. -This method is also effective for compressing larger pieces of softened plastic into the mold. +The same process is also helpful to compact bigger pieces of softened plastic down into the mold (like in the first picture here). -Continue adding material gradually to fill the mold, considering your desired color scheme and pattern. +Keep adding new material to slowly fill up the mold, keeping your color scheme and pattern in mind. ![FODUN14KQ6MQEDS.jpg](./FODUN14KQ6MQEDS.jpg) @@ -89,13 +89,13 @@ Continue adding material gradually to fill the mold, considering your desired co ### Step 6: Cooldown -### Cooling Process for Molds +With the molds filled up, it's time to take them out of the oven and let them cool down. Again make sure to wear proper gloves while doing so. -Once the molds are filled, carefully remove them from the oven using appropriate gloves. Before allowing the pots to cool, you may puncture air bubbles with a screwdriver. Extended time in the oven can reduce air bubbles, though they cannot be entirely eliminated. +I like to still pop some of the air bubbles with a screwdriver before letting the pots cool. The longer the molds are in the oven, the less air bubbles you'll have, but they're hard to avoid completely with a process like this. -We are testing the addition of a 0.08-0.12 inch (2-3 mm) metal sheet atop the mold during cooling. This can improve top and bottom consistency, but may sometimes cause deformation. Experiment to see if this method suits your needs. +One thing we're still experimenting with is adding a 2-3mm metal sheet on top of the mold while it cools. This helps with a more consistent top/bottom, but sometimes leads to some deformation of the piece itself. Just try it out for yourself. -Allow the molds to cool completely, preferably overnight. +Let the molds cool down completely, ideally overnight. ![FUAMC9NKQ6MQHIB.jpg](./FUAMC9NKQ6MQHIB.jpg) @@ -108,9 +108,7 @@ Allow the molds to cool completely, preferably overnight. ### Step 7: Demolding -### Instructions for Removing Pots from Molds - -Once the molds and plastic have cooled thoroughly, remove the pots. Carefully invert the flexible silicone mold to release each pot. Exercise caution to avoid tearing the molds at the corners. +With the molds and the plastic properly cooled, it's time to get your pots out of their molds. The silicone is quite flexible, so you turn the mold in on itself to release the pot. But it's also easy to rip the molds in tight corners, so try to be a bit careful there. ![FD3LSJ8KQ6MQJJC.jpg](./FD3LSJ8KQ6MQJJC.jpg) @@ -123,14 +121,18 @@ Once the molds and plastic have cooled thoroughly, remove the pots. Carefully in ### Step 8: Marking the Plastic Type -To facilitate future material identification, mark your pots with their plastic type. Consider using branding irons designed for this purpose to imprint the recycling symbol and corresponding number and text. Alternatively, employ metal punching letters to inscribe the plastic type on the bottom of your pots. +To ensure your pots can be recycled again, you have to mark it with the type of plastic it is. Ideally you would print the recycling triangle on there with the appropriate number and text, and there are special sets of branding irons to do exactly that at home. + +But a much simpler way is to use some of these punching letters you would usually use on sheet metal and punch the type into the bottom of your pots. Like so. ![F20A0BPKQ6MQKGM.jpg](./F20A0BPKQ6MQKGM.jpg) ### Step 9: Fill Them Up With Plants -Now, select small plants to fill your pots. Consider obtaining succulent cuttings to grow your own plants or purchase them from a gardening store if time is limited. Remember to water them immediately after replanting and regularly thereafter. +Now it's time to find some small plants and fill up your pots. Get some succulent cuttings from a friend and grow your own tiny plants. Or get some at the gardening store, if you're in a hurry like I was. But growing them yourself is much more rewarding, for sure. + +Don't forget to water them, right after replanting, and continuously as well. ![F5WJWK8KQ6MQKT6.jpg](./F5WJWK8KQ6MQKT6.jpg) @@ -142,49 +144,4 @@ Now, select small plants to fill your pots. Consider obtaining succulent cutting ![FW55ME5KQ6MQKT9.jpg](./FW55ME5KQ6MQKT9.jpg) ## Resources -### Tools - -- Silicone molds ([concrete casting molds](https://www.amazon.de/s?k=concrete+silicone+mold)) -- Shredder or alternatives (hammer, shears, bandsaws) -- Welding gloves ([heat-resistant gloves](https://www.amazon.de/s?k=welding+gloves)) -- Flat-head screwdriver ([example](https://www.amazon.de/s?k=flat-head+screwdriver)) -- Branding irons/metal punching letters ([for plastic marking](https://www.amazon.de/s?k=metal+punching+letters)) - -### Hardware - -- Oven (compression or standard, heats up to 200°C) -- Metal sheet (2-3 mm thickness for cooling) -- Thermometer (for monitoring oven temperature) -- Bandsaw (optional, for plastic shredding) -- Safety gloves (heat-resistant for mold handling) - -### Software - -- None specified -## References -- **Articles** - - https://www.wellandgood.com/lifestyle/upcycled-planter - - https://corporate.homedepot.com/news/sustainability/plant-it-again-plant-pot-recycling-program - - https://trumatter.in/home-improvement/diy-upcycle-a-plastic-bottle-to-a-planter/ - - https://lifeintrinidadandtobago.com/articles/home-garden/diy-step-by-step-guide-for-upcycled-plastic-bottle-planters/ - - https://www.gousto.co.uk/blog/diy-plant-pots-from-plastic-waste - - https://www.thepondsfarmhouse.com/transform-plastic-pots-stunning-book-page-flower-pots/ - - https://arts.onehowto.com/article/how-to-make-a-flower-pot-from-recycled-materials-4864.html - -- **Papers** - - https://ijcrt.org/papers/IJCRT2304523.pdf - - https://cordis.europa.eu/article/id/448181-reducing-plastic-waste-with-bio-based-biodegradable-plant-pots - -- **Books** - - https://scibizsw.com/20_THE%20OFFICIAL%20RASPBERRY%20PI%20PROJECTS%20BOOK%20v3.pdf - -- **YouTube** - - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Wpno0wbweM - - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YR2cfqrsCJs - - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-ttg1SAblSc - -- **Opensource Designs** - - https://www.pillarboxblue.com/marimekko-plastic-bottle-planters/ - - https://www.instructables.com/Plastic-Bottle-Planters/ - - https://spicymoustache.com/8-easy-and-simple-steps-to-make-diy-hanging-pots-from-recycled-bottled-water-2/ - - https://www.ohohdeco.com/diy-recycled-plastic-container-into-planter/ \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/make-some-colorful-plant-pots/config.json b/howtos/make-some-colorful-plant-pots/config.json index aec67da7b..2c96f264d 100644 --- a/howtos/make-some-colorful-plant-pots/config.json +++ b/howtos/make-some-colorful-plant-pots/config.json @@ -118,7 +118,7 @@ "alt": "FLHBXXUKQ6MQD93.jpg" } ], - "text": "To create pots, you need the following materials and tools:\n\n* Leftover plastics (sorted by type and color)\n* Silicone molds\nThese molds, typically used for concrete casting, withstand temperatures up to 200°C (392°F). Search for \"concrete silicone mold\" on online marketplaces.\n* An oven, such as a compression oven, is used only for its heating function." + "text": "To create our pots, we need the following things & tools:\n\n* Leftover plastics (sorted by type and color)\n* Silicone molds\nThe molds we used are intended for concrete casting, but as silicone is quite heat resistant, they work perfectly well with up to 200°C, sometimes even more. Just search for \"Concrete silicone mold\" on Amazon, eBay, Aliexpress, or wherever you like to shop online.\n* An oven, like the compression oven. We won't use the actual compression part, just the heat." }, { "title": "Preparing Your Plastic", @@ -149,7 +149,7 @@ } ], "_animationKey": "unique2", - "text": "Plastic must be reduced to smaller pieces to fit silicone molds. Use a shredder if available or alternative tools like a hammer (for brittle plastic), shears, or bandsaws to downsize. Precision isn't crucial as the plastic will melt to conform to the mold. Experiment with color patterns based on the piece sizes used." + "text": "We need to have the plastic in small enough pieces so we can fill our silicone moulds. If you have a shredder, use that. If you don't, use a hammer (on brittle plastic), shears, bandsaws, whatever works to get them down in size. It doesn't need to be super small, since it will melt into the mould, and you can experiment with patterns of colors, depending on the size of the pieces you put in." }, { "images": [ @@ -190,12 +190,12 @@ "alt": "FFBDHRIKQ6MQDUH.jpg" } ], - "text": "Once your plastic is ready, densely pack it into your silicone molds. Consider using creative color combinations. For instance, we suggest a mix of green/yellow and blue/red.\n\nIdeally, the plastic should collapse into itself as it melts without spilling over the mold, ensuring minimal supervision is required during the heating process.", + "text": "With your plastic properly prepared, squeeze in as much as you can into your silicone molds. Think of some funky color combinations. Here we're going for a mix of green/yellow and blue/red.\n\nIdeally, the plastic can collapse in onto itself while melting, and not drip outside of your mold. That just means there's less for you to worry about while it's in the oven.", "_animationKey": "unique3", "title": "Filling Up the Molds" }, { - "text": "Preheat your oven to the specified temperature for your plastic type before inserting the filled molds. \n\nFor PLA, use a temperature range of 170-180°C (338-356°F). Oven temperatures can vary, so begin on the lower end and adjust as necessary. Refer to your filament supplier's datasheets for temperature guidelines on other 3D printing plastics.", + "text": "With your oven preheated at the target temperature for your type of plastic, it's time to pop the filled molds into the heat.\n\nWe're using PLA, with a temperature of 170-180°C. This might be different for your oven also, so start a little on the cool side and work your way up. The [filtered] Download Pack has a good reference poster for some other common types of plastics. For 3D printing plastics, check out the datasheets by your filament supplier.", "images": [ { "timeCreated": "2021-07-30T08:45:52.202Z", @@ -278,7 +278,7 @@ ], "_animationKey": "uniqueg2du1q", "title": "Melting, Squishing, Refilling", - "text": "Monitor your molds consistently, particularly when they are filled to capacity. Watch for any plastic overflowing the edges. If this occurs, carefully remove the mold while wearing welding gloves and use a flat-head screwdriver to push the plastic back inside.\n\nThis method is also effective for compressing larger pieces of softened plastic into the mold.\n\nContinue adding material gradually to fill the mold, considering your desired color scheme and pattern." + "text": "Now you need to keep a constant eye on your molds. Especially if they're stacked quite full, always look for plastic trying to drip over the sides. In that case, take out the mold (wear welding gloves), and push the plastic back into the mold using a flat-head screwdriver.\n\nThe same process is also helpful to compact bigger pieces of softened plastic down into the mold (like in the first picture here).\n\nKeep adding new material to slowly fill up the mold, keeping your color scheme and pattern in mind." }, { "title": "Cooldown", @@ -321,7 +321,7 @@ "alt": "FAY0EWLKQ6MQHJ6.jpg" } ], - "text": "### Cooling Process for Molds\n\nOnce the molds are filled, carefully remove them from the oven using appropriate gloves. Before allowing the pots to cool, you may puncture air bubbles with a screwdriver. Extended time in the oven can reduce air bubbles, though they cannot be entirely eliminated.\n\nWe are testing the addition of a 0.08-0.12 inch (2-3 mm) metal sheet atop the mold during cooling. This can improve top and bottom consistency, but may sometimes cause deformation. Experiment to see if this method suits your needs.\n\nAllow the molds to cool completely, preferably overnight." + "text": "With the molds filled up, it's time to take them out of the oven and let them cool down. Again make sure to wear proper gloves while doing so.\n\nI like to still pop some of the air bubbles with a screwdriver before letting the pots cool. The longer the molds are in the oven, the less air bubbles you'll have, but they're hard to avoid completely with a process like this.\n\nOne thing we're still experimenting with is adding a 2-3mm metal sheet on top of the mold while it cools. This helps with a more consistent top/bottom, but sometimes leads to some deformation of the piece itself. Just try it out for yourself.\n\nLet the molds cool down completely, ideally overnight." }, { "title": "Demolding", @@ -364,7 +364,7 @@ "alt": "FXZZI0QKQ6MQJJG.jpg" } ], - "text": "### Instructions for Removing Pots from Molds\n\nOnce the molds and plastic have cooled thoroughly, remove the pots. Carefully invert the flexible silicone mold to release each pot. Exercise caution to avoid tearing the molds at the corners." + "text": "With the molds and the plastic properly cooled, it's time to get your pots out of their molds. The silicone is quite flexible, so you turn the mold in on itself to release the pot. But it's also easy to rip the molds in tight corners, so try to be a bit careful there. " }, { "_animationKey": "unique2fb84e", @@ -382,7 +382,7 @@ "alt": "F20A0BPKQ6MQKGM.jpg" } ], - "text": "To facilitate future material identification, mark your pots with their plastic type. Consider using branding irons designed for this purpose to imprint the recycling symbol and corresponding number and text. Alternatively, employ metal punching letters to inscribe the plastic type on the bottom of your pots.", + "text": "To ensure your pots can be recycled again, you have to mark it with the type of plastic it is. Ideally you would print the recycling triangle on there with the appropriate number and text, and there are special sets of branding irons to do exactly that at home.\n\nBut a much simpler way is to use some of these punching letters you would usually use on sheet metal and punch the type into the bottom of your pots. Like so.", "title": "Marking the Plastic Type" }, { @@ -426,10 +426,10 @@ } ], "_animationKey": "uniquesn1eph", - "text": "Now, select small plants to fill your pots. Consider obtaining succulent cuttings to grow your own plants or purchase them from a gardening store if time is limited. Remember to water them immediately after replanting and regularly thereafter." + "text": "Now it's time to find some small plants and fill up your pots. Get some succulent cuttings from a friend and grow your own tiny plants. Or get some at the gardening store, if you're in a hurry like I was. But growing them yourself is much more rewarding, for sure.\n\nDon't forget to water them, right after replanting, and continuously as well." } ], - "description": "Let's transform plastic into vibrant plant pots.", + "description": "Let's try to recycle some plastic into beautifully colorful plant pots. ", "tags": [ "product", "mould", @@ -591,9 +591,5 @@ "images": [] } }, - "content": "Let's transform plastic into vibrant plant pots.\n\n\nUser Location: Munich, Germany\n\nTo create pots, you need the following materials and tools:\n\n* Leftover plastics (sorted by type and color)\n* Silicone molds\nThese molds, typically used for concrete casting, withstand temperatures up to 200°C (392°F). Search for \"concrete silicone mold\" on online marketplaces.\n* An oven, such as a compression oven, is used only for its heating function.\n\nPlastic must be reduced to smaller pieces to fit silicone molds. Use a shredder if available or alternative tools like a hammer (for brittle plastic), shears, or bandsaws to downsize. Precision isn't crucial as the plastic will melt to conform to the mold. Experiment with color patterns based on the piece sizes used.\n\nOnce your plastic is ready, densely pack it into your silicone molds. Consider using creative color combinations. For instance, we suggest a mix of green/yellow and blue/red.\n\nIdeally, the plastic should collapse into itself as it melts without spilling over the mold, ensuring minimal supervision is required during the heating process.\n\nPreheat your oven to the specified temperature for your plastic type before inserting the filled molds. \n\nFor PLA, use a temperature range of 170-180°C (338-356°F). Oven temperatures can vary, so begin on the lower end and adjust as necessary. Refer to your filament supplier's datasheets for temperature guidelines on other 3D printing plastics.\n\nMonitor your molds consistently, particularly when they are filled to capacity. Watch for any plastic overflowing the edges. If this occurs, carefully remove the mold while wearing welding gloves and use a flat-head screwdriver to push the plastic back inside.\n\nThis method is also effective for compressing larger pieces of softened plastic into the mold.\n\nContinue adding material gradually to fill the mold, considering your desired color scheme and pattern.\n\n### Cooling Process for Molds\n\nOnce the molds are filled, carefully remove them from the oven using appropriate gloves. Before allowing the pots to cool, you may puncture air bubbles with a screwdriver. Extended time in the oven can reduce air bubbles, though they cannot be entirely eliminated.\n\nWe are testing the addition of a 0.08-0.12 inch (2-3 mm) metal sheet atop the mold during cooling. This can improve top and bottom consistency, but may sometimes cause deformation. Experiment to see if this method suits your needs.\n\nAllow the molds to cool completely, preferably overnight.\n\n### Instructions for Removing Pots from Molds\n\nOnce the molds and plastic have cooled thoroughly, remove the pots. Carefully invert the flexible silicone mold to release each pot. Exercise caution to avoid tearing the molds at the corners.\n\nTo facilitate future material identification, mark your pots with their plastic type. Consider using branding irons designed for this purpose to imprint the recycling symbol and corresponding number and text. Alternatively, employ metal punching letters to inscribe the plastic type on the bottom of your pots.\n\nNow, select small plants to fill your pots. Consider obtaining succulent cuttings to grow your own plants or purchase them from a gardening store if time is limited. Remember to water them immediately after replanting and regularly thereafter.", - "keywords": "plastic recycling, DIY plant pots, sustainable gardening, silicone molds, upcycling crafts, recycled planters, eco-friendly materials, homemade flower pots, Munich gardening, reducing plastic waste", - "resources": "### Tools\n\n- Silicone molds ([concrete casting molds](https://www.amazon.de/s?k=concrete+silicone+mold))\n- Shredder or alternatives (hammer, shears, bandsaws)\n- Welding gloves ([heat-resistant gloves](https://www.amazon.de/s?k=welding+gloves))\n- Flat-head screwdriver ([example](https://www.amazon.de/s?k=flat-head+screwdriver))\n- Branding irons/metal punching letters ([for plastic marking](https://www.amazon.de/s?k=metal+punching+letters))\n\n### Hardware\n\n- Oven (compression or standard, heats up to 200°C)\n- Metal sheet (2-3 mm thickness for cooling)\n- Thermometer (for monitoring oven temperature)\n- Bandsaw (optional, for plastic shredding)\n- Safety gloves (heat-resistant for mold handling)\n\n### Software\n\n- None specified", - "references": "- **Articles**\n - https://www.wellandgood.com/lifestyle/upcycled-planter\n - https://corporate.homedepot.com/news/sustainability/plant-it-again-plant-pot-recycling-program\n - https://trumatter.in/home-improvement/diy-upcycle-a-plastic-bottle-to-a-planter/\n - https://lifeintrinidadandtobago.com/articles/home-garden/diy-step-by-step-guide-for-upcycled-plastic-bottle-planters/\n - https://www.gousto.co.uk/blog/diy-plant-pots-from-plastic-waste\n - https://www.thepondsfarmhouse.com/transform-plastic-pots-stunning-book-page-flower-pots/\n - https://arts.onehowto.com/article/how-to-make-a-flower-pot-from-recycled-materials-4864.html\n\n- **Papers**\n - https://ijcrt.org/papers/IJCRT2304523.pdf\n - https://cordis.europa.eu/article/id/448181-reducing-plastic-waste-with-bio-based-biodegradable-plant-pots\n\n- **Books**\n - https://scibizsw.com/20_THE%20OFFICIAL%20RASPBERRY%20PI%20PROJECTS%20BOOK%20v3.pdf\n\n- **YouTube**\n - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Wpno0wbweM\n - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YR2cfqrsCJs\n - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-ttg1SAblSc\n\n- **Opensource Designs**\n - https://www.pillarboxblue.com/marimekko-plastic-bottle-planters/\n - https://www.instructables.com/Plastic-Bottle-Planters/\n - https://spicymoustache.com/8-easy-and-simple-steps-to-make-diy-hanging-pots-from-recycled-bottled-water-2/\n - https://www.ohohdeco.com/diy-recycled-plastic-container-into-planter/", - "brief": "Transform leftover plastics into vibrant plant pots with silicone molds and simple tools. Melt, mold, and create customized designs with ease. Perfect for DIY enthusiasts!" + "content": "Let's try to recycle some plastic into beautifully colorful plant pots. \n\n\nUser Location: Munich, Germany\n\nTo create our pots, we need the following things & tools:\n\n* Leftover plastics (sorted by type and color)\n* Silicone molds\nThe molds we used are intended for concrete casting, but as silicone is quite heat resistant, they work perfectly well with up to 200°C, sometimes even more. Just search for \"Concrete silicone mold\" on Amazon, eBay, Aliexpress, or wherever you like to shop online.\n* An oven, like the compression oven. We won't use the actual compression part, just the heat.\n\nWe need to have the plastic in small enough pieces so we can fill our silicone moulds. If you have a shredder, use that. If you don't, use a hammer (on brittle plastic), shears, bandsaws, whatever works to get them down in size. It doesn't need to be super small, since it will melt into the mould, and you can experiment with patterns of colors, depending on the size of the pieces you put in.\n\nWith your plastic properly prepared, squeeze in as much as you can into your silicone molds. Think of some funky color combinations. Here we're going for a mix of green/yellow and blue/red.\n\nIdeally, the plastic can collapse in onto itself while melting, and not drip outside of your mold. That just means there's less for you to worry about while it's in the oven.\n\nWith your oven preheated at the target temperature for your type of plastic, it's time to pop the filled molds into the heat.\n\nWe're using PLA, with a temperature of 170-180°C. This might be different for your oven also, so start a little on the cool side and work your way up. The [filtered] Download Pack has a good reference poster for some other common types of plastics. For 3D printing plastics, check out the datasheets by your filament supplier.\n\nNow you need to keep a constant eye on your molds. Especially if they're stacked quite full, always look for plastic trying to drip over the sides. In that case, take out the mold (wear welding gloves), and push the plastic back into the mold using a flat-head screwdriver.\n\nThe same process is also helpful to compact bigger pieces of softened plastic down into the mold (like in the first picture here).\n\nKeep adding new material to slowly fill up the mold, keeping your color scheme and pattern in mind.\n\nWith the molds filled up, it's time to take them out of the oven and let them cool down. Again make sure to wear proper gloves while doing so.\n\nI like to still pop some of the air bubbles with a screwdriver before letting the pots cool. The longer the molds are in the oven, the less air bubbles you'll have, but they're hard to avoid completely with a process like this.\n\nOne thing we're still experimenting with is adding a 2-3mm metal sheet on top of the mold while it cools. This helps with a more consistent top/bottom, but sometimes leads to some deformation of the piece itself. Just try it out for yourself.\n\nLet the molds cool down completely, ideally overnight.\n\nWith the molds and the plastic properly cooled, it's time to get your pots out of their molds. The silicone is quite flexible, so you turn the mold in on itself to release the pot. But it's also easy to rip the molds in tight corners, so try to be a bit careful there. \n\nTo ensure your pots can be recycled again, you have to mark it with the type of plastic it is. Ideally you would print the recycling triangle on there with the appropriate number and text, and there are special sets of branding irons to do exactly that at home.\n\nBut a much simpler way is to use some of these punching letters you would usually use on sheet metal and punch the type into the bottom of your pots. Like so.\n\nNow it's time to find some small plants and fill up your pots. Get some succulent cuttings from a friend and grow your own tiny plants. Or get some at the gardening store, if you're in a hurry like I was. But growing them yourself is much more rewarding, for sure.\n\nDon't forget to water them, right after replanting, and continuously as well." } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/make-the-plstico-fantstico-recycling-bicycle-shredder/README.md b/howtos/make-the-plstico-fantstico-recycling-bicycle-shredder/README.md index 3f639ec91..4c731d2a8 100644 --- a/howtos/make-the-plstico-fantstico-recycling-bicycle-shredder/README.md +++ b/howtos/make-the-plstico-fantstico-recycling-bicycle-shredder/README.md @@ -1,31 +1,35 @@ --- title: Make the ‘Plástico Fantástico’ Recycling Bicycle Shredder slug: make-the-plstico-fantstico-recycling-bicycle-shredder -description: The adapted bicycle shredder integrates shredding capability with cycling, allowing you to shred plastic for molding while on the move. This specific adaptation draws inspiration from the Precious Plastic Shredder tailored for bicycle use. +description: The adapted bicycle shredder combines the power of shredding with the joy of cycling so you can collect and shred plastic ready for moulding as you travel from place to place. The adaptation has taken influence form Precious Plastic Shredder that was adapted for use on a bicycle. -For further inquiries about this adaptation, please contact @jam_goreing on Instagram. +For more information about the adaptation please reach out via Instagram to ‘@​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​jam_goreing’ + +Or see the 3 minute project video at (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IoSn84Axao8) -Additionally, you can view the 3-minute project video [here](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IoSn84Axao8). tags: ["collection","shredder","HDPE"] category: Machines difficulty: Hard time: 1+ months -keywords: bicycle shredder, plastic shredding bike, portable plastic shredder, DIY shredder design, Precious Plastic bicycle, mobile recycling, pedal-powered shredder, plastic molding bike, eco-friendly shredding, bicycle modification +keywords: location: --- # Make the ‘Plástico Fantástico’ Recycling Bicycle Shredder ![Make the ‘Plástico Fantástico’ Recycling Bicycle Shredder](IMG_1465-BW.jpg) -The adapted bicycle shredder integrates shredding capability with cycling, allowing you to shred plastic for molding while on the move. This specific adaptation draws inspiration from the Precious Plastic Shredder tailored for bicycle use. +The adapted bicycle shredder combines the power of shredding with the joy of cycling so you can collect and shred plastic ready for moulding as you travel from place to place. The adaptation has taken influence form Precious Plastic Shredder that was adapted for use on a bicycle. -For further inquiries about this adaptation, please contact @jam_goreing on Instagram. +For more information about the adaptation please reach out via Instagram to ‘@​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​jam_goreing’ + +Or see the 3 minute project video at (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IoSn84Axao8) -Additionally, you can view the 3-minute project video [here](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IoSn84Axao8). ## Steps ### Step 1: Create the Shredder and Housing -The basic design and instructions for the shredder are available on the Instruction pages. +The basic design and instructions for the shredder can be found on the [filtered] Instruction pages ( + +Initially the number of shredder blades will need to be reduced down to around 9 from the original design so that the shredder is thin and light enough to be mounted on the back of a bicycle, however more can be incorporated if desired. The depth of the shredder housing will then need to be scaled down in co-ordination with the reduced number of blades. +For the housing, aluminium or steel can be used so long as the blades and spacers are still made of steel. Using aluminium will mean that the housing has to be bolted together instead of welded. -Reduce the number of shredder blades to approximately 9 from the original design for a lighter structure suitable for bicycle mounting. You may add more blades if needed. Adjust the shredder housing depth to match the reduced blade count. Use aluminum or steel for the housing, ensuring blades and spacers remain steel. Aluminum requires bolting the housing instead of welding. ![Step 1 - Image 2.jpg](./Step_1_-_Image_2.jpg) @@ -35,7 +39,7 @@ Reduce the number of shredder blades to approximately 9 from the original design ### Step 2: The Plastic Collection Tray -The housing must be extended downward approximately 2 inches (50 mm) to accommodate a collection tray below the shredder blades. This space in the middle for the collection tray is shown in the images. The collection tray is constructed from clear acrylic that interlocks. +The housing will need to be elongated downwards to allow for a collection tray for the shredded plastic that can sit underneath the shredder blades. The housing needs to be elongated down around 50mm allowing a space in the middle for the collection tray as illustrated in the images. The collection tray itself is made of clear acrylic that then slots together. ![Step 3 - Image 1.jpg](./Step_3_-_Image_1.jpg) @@ -45,11 +49,10 @@ The housing must be extended downward approximately 2 inches (50 mm) to accommod ### Step 3: Create the Shredder Support Base -The shredder requires a sturdy base to accommodate its weight and the force exerted during shredding when attached to a bicycle. A standard bicycle rear rack typically suffices. The rack can be mounted on the bike and modified to secure the shredder. +The shredder will need a solid base to sit for when it is attached to a bicycle to allow for the weight of the shredder and the force placed upon it when shredding. In most circumstances a traditional bicycle back rack will be sufficient for this task, the back rack can be mounted to the bike and then adapted to secure the shredder. +During my experiment I did not know exactly which bicycle I was going to use, as I planned to rent one when I reached the project testing location of Chile. Due to this I had to create a support frame that would fix to a variety of bicycles. +During my installation the shredder sat on an aluminium support base that had three steel rods bolted to it to create the supporting connection to the bicycle. The central steel rod was attached to the Seatpost via a second Seat Collar around the Seatpost. The two side rods attached to the Seat Stray and at the end of each rod a 0.5mm thickness steel plate was connected that could be wrapped around the frame by hand. An old inner tube acted as a rubber lining to fix the support frame to the bicycle and stop it sliding down. -In my experiment, I was unsure which bicycle I would use since I intended to rent one upon reaching Chile for the project. Therefore, I designed a versatile support frame compatible with various bicycles. - -For installation, the shredder was placed on an aluminum support base with three steel rods bolted to it, connecting it to the bike. The central rod attached to the seat post via a secondary seat collar. The two side rods connected to the seat stay, each ending with a 0.02-inch (0.5mm) thick steel plate that could be manually wrapped around the frame. An old inner tube served as a rubber lining to secure the support frame and prevent slipping. ![_1360080-B&W.jpg](./_1360080-BW.jpg) @@ -62,7 +65,7 @@ For installation, the shredder was placed on an aluminum support base with three ### Step 4: The Hopper Frame -The hopper is constructed from clear acrylic, including the shredded plastic collection tray beneath the blades. It must be securely bolted to the top of the shredder housing. An aluminum casing frame can be added around the hopper for aesthetic purposes, with optional rear storage for collected plastic prior to shredding. Alternative designs are possible without impacting the shredding function or hopper stability. +The hopper is made of clear acyclic along with the shredded plastic collection tray, located under the blades. The hopper will need to be bolted to the top of the shredder housing to lock it in place. A simple aluminium-casing frame can be built around the hopper for aesthetic purposes. This can incorporate at the rear, storage for all the collected waste plastic before it is shredded. Alternative designs can be implemented, as this does not affect the shredding ability or the stability of the hopper. ![P1350827-B&W-2.jpg](./P1350827-BW-2.jpg) @@ -72,9 +75,10 @@ The hopper is constructed from clear acrylic, including the shredded plastic col ### Step 5: Gears and Ball Bearings -A used bicycle square taper bottom bracket, along with the crank and crank bolt, is required to attach the gear to the shredder. First, use an angle grinder to cut off the steel square tapered end of the bottom bracket. +A used bicycle square taper bottom bracket and corresponding crank and crank bolt will need to be acquired to be able to attach the gear to the shredder. The steel square tapered end of the bottom bracket is first cut off with an angle grinder. + +A sealed ball bearing will be needed to allow the blades to spin on the axle. The ball bearing needs to allow the thickest end of the taper to fit through it. In my case the square taper had a maximum diameter of 16mm and so a sealed ball bearing with an inner diameter of 17mm was used. -A sealed ball bearing is necessary for the blades to spin on the axle. The bearing should accommodate the thickest part of the taper. In my case, the square taper had a maximum diameter of 0.63 inches (16 mm), so a sealed ball bearing with an inner diameter of 0.67 inches (17 mm) was used. ![IMG_3153-B&W.jpg](./IMG_3153-BW.jpg) @@ -84,7 +88,10 @@ A sealed ball bearing is necessary for the blades to spin on the axle. The beari ### Step 6: Preparing the Blade Axle -The axle for the blades is based on the instructional video, featuring a hexagonal design that is turned on a lathe to create rounded ends. These ends are machined to match the diameter of the ball bearing's inner diameter, ensuring a snug fit. The outermost 0.2 inches (5 mm) of the rounded axle is further reduced to match the crank bolt thread diameter. The square taper, pre-threaded through the center, allows the axle, once lathed to the appropriate thickness, to fit securely inside, ensuring proper alignment for welding. +The axle for the blades is as per the [filtered] instructional video; a hexagonal axle that is lathe down to be round at either end. The axle is lathe down at either end to be the same diameter as the inner diameter of the ball bearing. It is important to ensure there is no gap between the axle and the ball bearing when they are fitted together. + +The very end of the now rounded axle (last 5mm) then has to be lathe down further to the diameter of the crank bolt thread. The cut off square taper is already threaded all the way through the centre and so the axle (once lathe down to the thread thickness) can sit within this to centre the square taper on the axle ready for welding. + ![IMG_3143-B&W.jpg](./IMG_3143-BW.jpg) @@ -94,9 +101,10 @@ The axle for the blades is based on the instructional video, featuring a hexagon ### Step 7: Attaching the Gear -Next, weld the cut-off square taper to the axle. Once welded, machine it on a lathe to fit back through the ball bearing. Attach the gear securely using the crank bolt. +Next, the cut off square taper will need to be welded onto the axle. Once the square taper is welded on and lathe down so that it can be thread back through the ball bearing the gear can be attached using the crank bolt to hold it tightly in place. + +The crank arm will need to be cut off using an angle grinder, then again using the angle grinder the crank can be shaped to smooth it back and create a formed shape. -Use an angle grinder to cut off the crank arm. Shape it with the grinder to achieve a smooth, formed finish. ![_1360081-B&W.jpg](./_1360081-BW.jpg) @@ -106,41 +114,42 @@ Use an angle grinder to cut off the crank arm. Shape it with the grinder to achi ### Step 8: Securing the ball bearing in place -### Ball Bearing Housing Instructions +A ball bearing housing will need to be made to securely hold the ball bearing and therefore the axle in place. The ball bearing housing will need to be made of layers of laser cut aluminium or steel where the total thickness of all the layers equates to the thickness of the ball bearing and has a circular hole cut which is the same diameter as the outside diameter of the ball bearing to hold it securely in place. An end cap with a diameter in-between the inside and outside diameter of the ball bearing will also be needed to stop the ball bearing sliding out. Any shape can be made as long as it is attached to the shredder housing and holds the ball bearing in tight. -Create a housing from layered laser-cut aluminum or steel to securely hold the ball bearing and axle. The total thickness of the layers should match the ball bearing's thickness, with a hole matching the bearing's outer diameter. Use an end cap with a diameter between the inner and outer bearing diameters to prevent sliding. Design any shape that attaches to the shredder housing and secures the bearing. +I found that I additionally needed 1.5mm spacers on the inside of the ball bearing to stop it moving and keep it locked securely in place. -Use 1.5 mm (0.06 inches) internal spacers if needed to prevent movement. ![_1350969-B&W.jpg](./_1350969-BW.jpg) ### Step 9: Securing the shredder in place -After assembling the shredder, securely connect the axle and gear. Once the shredder is bolted to the support frame, proceed with installing the chain and gearing. +Once the shredder is assembled with the axle and gear securely connected and the shredder bolted to the support frame the chain and gearing can next be considered. ![Step 8 - Image 1.jpg](./Step_8_-_Image_1.jpg) ### Step 10: Attaching the chain -The chain connected to the shredder is crucial for operation, necessitating correct gearing and tight installation. A quick-release chain facilitates easy adjustment and proper length setting before securing it around the gears. +The chain attached to the shredder is the connecting element that allows the bike to shred and so it is important to ensure the gearing is correct and the chain is tight once installed. I used a quick release chain as this allowed me to quickly adjust the chain to the correct length then thread it around the gears before tightening. + +In my process I did not use a derailleur to keep the chain tight instead I used the adjust-ability of the support frame to tighten the chain by raising the Seatpost that was connected to the shredder support base and so pulled the shredder up tightening the chain. -I opted not to use a derailleur to maintain chain tension. Instead, I adjusted the support frame by raising the seatpost attached to the shredder support base, effectively tightening the chain by elevating the shredder. ![Step 9 - Image 9.jpg](./Step_9_-_Image_9.jpg) ### Step 11: 11 - Gears -I used a 4.6:1 gearing ratio, meaning 4.6 pedal revolutions equate to one shredder revolution, to decrease the shredder's speed while increasing torque. I attached the chain connected to the pedal on the largest gear of the cassette and the chain to the shredder on the smallest gear, which functioned effectively. +In regards to gearing I looked to use a ratio 4.6:1 where I had 4.6 revolutions of the crank to 1 revolution of the shredder with the intention to reduce the speed of the shredder but increase the torque. The reality was slightly off, I placed the chain connected to the pedal on the inner gear of the cassette (largest) and the chain attached to the shredder on the outer gear of the cassette (smallest) and this proved to work. ![Step 6 - Image 1.jpg](./Step_6_-_Image_1.jpg) ### Step 12: Finishing and Using -After installing the shredder and attaching the chain, use pedal power to shred plastic. HDPE plastic, being softer, is easier to shred manually. The shredded material can be repurposed into items like flat cladding panels. +Once the shredder is installed and the chain attached its time to use the pedal power to shred some plastic! +It can be used to shred all sorts of plastic the best proved to be HDPE as this was softer and easier to shred when pedalling. The shredded plastic can then be used to create new plastic inventions such as simple flat cladding panels. ![Step 10 - Image 3.jpg](./Step_10_-_Image_3.jpg) @@ -152,71 +161,4 @@ After installing the shredder and attaching the chain, use pedal power to shred ![Step 10 - Image 4.jpg](./Step_10_-_Image_4.jpg) ## Resources -## Hardware - -- Aluminum/steel shredder housing ([project video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IoSn84Axao8)) -- Bicycle rear rack (modified for shredder mounting) -- Used bicycle square taper bottom bracket + crank/crank bolt -- Sealed ball bearing (17mm inner diameter) -- Steel rods + aluminum support base for frame attachment - -## Tools - -- Angle grinder (cutting crank arm/taper) -- Lathe (axle machining) -- Welding equipment (axle-taper connection) -- Laser-cutting machine (bearing housing layers) -- Grinder (shaping crank arm finish) - -## Software - -- Design software for laser-cut housing (e.g., CAD) - -## Materials - -- Clear acrylic (hopper/collection tray) -- Steel spacers (0.5mm thickness) -- 0.5mm steel plates (frame connectors) -- Rubber inner tube (anti-slip lining) -- Bolts/nuts (housing assembly) - -## Additional Components - -- HDPE plastic (primary shredding material) -- Quick-release bicycle chain -- 4.6:1 gear ratio drivetrain -- Acrylic casing frame (optional aesthetics) -- Crank bolt (gear attachment) - -Contact @jam_goreing on Instagram for adaptation details [1]. -## References -## References - -### Articles - -- [[filtered] Shredder - Fab Lab Barcelona](https://knowledge.fablabbcn.org/fabrication/machines/precious_plastic_shredder/) [1] -- [[filtered] Shredder Manual (PDF)](https://www.crutchfieldeng.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/precious-plastic-shredder-manual.pdf) [4] - -### Books - -- [Do-It-Yourself: Setting Up Your [filtered] Workspace](https://www.plastic.org.au/products/book-diy-pp-workspace) [9] - -### YouTube - -- [Adapted Bicycle Shredder Project Video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IoSn84Axao8) -- [[filtered] - Build the Injection (Part 3.3)](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qtZv96ciFIU) [11] -- [Setup an Injection Workspace and Inject Plastic (Part 7.3)](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hIlmxuz1ZKs) [10] - -### Open Source Designs - -- Shredder Pro V4 (Fully Built) [8] -- Upgraded Shredder Box Kit [2] -- [[filtered] Toolbox - Shredder Instructions](https://[filtered].github.io/academy/build/shredderprorun) [7] - -### Manuals - -- [[filtered] Shredder User Manual (PDF)](https://www.crutchfieldeng.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/precious-plastic-shredder-manual.pdf) [4] - -### Repositories - -- [[filtered] Academy GitHub Resources](https://[filtered].github.io/academy/build/shredderprorun) [7] \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/make-the-plstico-fantstico-recycling-bicycle-shredder/config.json b/howtos/make-the-plstico-fantstico-recycling-bicycle-shredder/config.json index ca3d8453c..cfb335d07 100644 --- a/howtos/make-the-plstico-fantstico-recycling-bicycle-shredder/config.json +++ b/howtos/make-the-plstico-fantstico-recycling-bicycle-shredder/config.json @@ -29,7 +29,7 @@ "src": "C:\\Users\\zx\\Desktop\\osr\\osr-machines\\howtos\\make-the-plstico-fantstico-recycling-bicycle-shredder\\img_1465-bw.jpg" }, "_createdBy": "jamesg06", - "description": "The adapted bicycle shredder integrates shredding capability with cycling, allowing you to shred plastic for molding while on the move. This specific adaptation draws inspiration from the Precious Plastic Shredder tailored for bicycle use.\n\nFor further inquiries about this adaptation, please contact @jam_goreing on Instagram.\n\nAdditionally, you can view the 3-minute project video [here](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IoSn84Axao8).", + "description": "The adapted bicycle shredder combines the power of shredding with the joy of cycling so you can collect and shred plastic ready for moulding as you travel from place to place. The adaptation has taken influence form Precious Plastic Shredder that was adapted for use on a bicycle. \n\nFor more information about the adaptation please reach out via Instagram to ‘@​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​jam_goreing’ \n\nOr see the 3 minute project video at (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IoSn84Axao8)\n", "moderation": "accepted", "votedUsefulBy": [ "agkmen", @@ -99,7 +99,7 @@ "alt": "Step 1 - Image 1.jpg" } ], - "text": "The basic design and instructions for the shredder are available on the Instruction pages.\n\nReduce the number of shredder blades to approximately 9 from the original design for a lighter structure suitable for bicycle mounting. You may add more blades if needed. Adjust the shredder housing depth to match the reduced blade count. Use aluminum or steel for the housing, ensuring blades and spacers remain steel. Aluminum requires bolting the housing instead of welding.", + "text": "The basic design and instructions for the shredder can be found on the [filtered] Instruction pages ( \n\nInitially the number of shredder blades will need to be reduced down to around 9 from the original design so that the shredder is thin and light enough to be mounted on the back of a bicycle, however more can be incorporated if desired. The depth of the shredder housing will then need to be scaled down in co-ordination with the reduced number of blades. \nFor the housing, aluminium or steel can be used so long as the blades and spacers are still made of steel. Using aluminium will mean that the housing has to be bolted together instead of welded.\n", "title": "Create the Shredder and Housing" }, { @@ -130,13 +130,13 @@ } ], "caption": "The Plastic Collection Tray", - "text": "The housing must be extended downward approximately 2 inches (50 mm) to accommodate a collection tray below the shredder blades. This space in the middle for the collection tray is shown in the images. The collection tray is constructed from clear acrylic that interlocks.", + "text": "The housing will need to be elongated downwards to allow for a collection tray for the shredded plastic that can sit underneath the shredder blades. The housing needs to be elongated down around 50mm allowing a space in the middle for the collection tray as illustrated in the images. The collection tray itself is made of clear acrylic that then slots together. ", "_animationKey": "unique2", "title": "The Plastic Collection Tray" }, { "title": "Create the Shredder Support Base", - "text": "The shredder requires a sturdy base to accommodate its weight and the force exerted during shredding when attached to a bicycle. A standard bicycle rear rack typically suffices. The rack can be mounted on the bike and modified to secure the shredder.\n\nIn my experiment, I was unsure which bicycle I would use since I intended to rent one upon reaching Chile for the project. Therefore, I designed a versatile support frame compatible with various bicycles.\n\nFor installation, the shredder was placed on an aluminum support base with three steel rods bolted to it, connecting it to the bike. The central rod attached to the seat post via a secondary seat collar. The two side rods connected to the seat stay, each ending with a 0.02-inch (0.5mm) thick steel plate that could be manually wrapped around the frame. An old inner tube served as a rubber lining to secure the support frame and prevent slipping.", + "text": "The shredder will need a solid base to sit for when it is attached to a bicycle to allow for the weight of the shredder and the force placed upon it when shredding. In most circumstances a traditional bicycle back rack will be sufficient for this task, the back rack can be mounted to the bike and then adapted to secure the shredder.\nDuring my experiment I did not know exactly which bicycle I was going to use, as I planned to rent one when I reached the project testing location of Chile. Due to this I had to create a support frame that would fix to a variety of bicycles.\nDuring my installation the shredder sat on an aluminium support base that had three steel rods bolted to it to create the supporting connection to the bicycle. The central steel rod was attached to the Seatpost via a second Seat Collar around the Seatpost. The two side rods attached to the Seat Stray and at the end of each rod a 0.5mm thickness steel plate was connected that could be wrapped around the frame by hand. An old inner tube acted as a rubber lining to fix the support frame to the bicycle and stop it sliding down. \n", "_animationKey": "unique3", "caption": "Shredder Support", "images": [ @@ -181,7 +181,7 @@ { "_animationKey": "uniqueelgsk", "title": "The Hopper Frame", - "text": "The hopper is constructed from clear acrylic, including the shredded plastic collection tray beneath the blades. It must be securely bolted to the top of the shredder housing. An aluminum casing frame can be added around the hopper for aesthetic purposes, with optional rear storage for collected plastic prior to shredding. Alternative designs are possible without impacting the shredding function or hopper stability.", + "text": "The hopper is made of clear acyclic along with the shredded plastic collection tray, located under the blades. The hopper will need to be bolted to the top of the shredder housing to lock it in place. A simple aluminium-casing frame can be built around the hopper for aesthetic purposes. This can incorporate at the rear, storage for all the collected waste plastic before it is shredded. Alternative designs can be implemented, as this does not affect the shredding ability or the stability of the hopper. ", "images": [ { "fullPath": "uploads/v3_howtos/SahXky6vXcHu3K3JDHtE/P1350827-B&W-2.jpg", @@ -238,13 +238,13 @@ "alt": "IMG_3206-B&W.jpg" } ], - "text": "A used bicycle square taper bottom bracket, along with the crank and crank bolt, is required to attach the gear to the shredder. First, use an angle grinder to cut off the steel square tapered end of the bottom bracket.\n\nA sealed ball bearing is necessary for the blades to spin on the axle. The bearing should accommodate the thickest part of the taper. In my case, the square taper had a maximum diameter of 0.63 inches (16 mm), so a sealed ball bearing with an inner diameter of 0.67 inches (17 mm) was used.", + "text": "A used bicycle square taper bottom bracket and corresponding crank and crank bolt will need to be acquired to be able to attach the gear to the shredder. The steel square tapered end of the bottom bracket is first cut off with an angle grinder.\n\nA sealed ball bearing will be needed to allow the blades to spin on the axle. The ball bearing needs to allow the thickest end of the taper to fit through it. In my case the square taper had a maximum diameter of 16mm and so a sealed ball bearing with an inner diameter of 17mm was used. \n", "title": "Gears and Ball Bearings", "_animationKey": "unique10fder" }, { "title": "Preparing the Blade Axle ", - "text": "The axle for the blades is based on the instructional video, featuring a hexagonal design that is turned on a lathe to create rounded ends. These ends are machined to match the diameter of the ball bearing's inner diameter, ensuring a snug fit. The outermost 0.2 inches (5 mm) of the rounded axle is further reduced to match the crank bolt thread diameter. The square taper, pre-threaded through the center, allows the axle, once lathed to the appropriate thickness, to fit securely inside, ensuring proper alignment for welding.", + "text": "The axle for the blades is as per the [filtered] instructional video; a hexagonal axle that is lathe down to be round at either end. The axle is lathe down at either end to be the same diameter as the inner diameter of the ball bearing. It is important to ensure there is no gap between the axle and the ball bearing when they are fitted together. \n\nThe very end of the now rounded axle (last 5mm) then has to be lathe down further to the diameter of the crank bolt thread. The cut off square taper is already threaded all the way through the centre and so the axle (once lathe down to the thread thickness) can sit within this to centre the square taper on the axle ready for welding. \n", "images": [ { "downloadUrl": "https://firebasestorage.googleapis.com/v0/b/onearmyworld.appspot.com/o/uploads%2Fv3_howtos%2FSahXky6vXcHu3K3JDHtE%2FIMG_3143-B%26W.jpg?alt=media&token=fe830abd-53e2-4cd3-9cd8-3139aab7ff40", @@ -275,7 +275,7 @@ "caption": "Lathe Down Axle" }, { - "text": "Next, weld the cut-off square taper to the axle. Once welded, machine it on a lathe to fit back through the ball bearing. Attach the gear securely using the crank bolt.\n\nUse an angle grinder to cut off the crank arm. Shape it with the grinder to achieve a smooth, formed finish.", + "text": "Next, the cut off square taper will need to be welded onto the axle. Once the square taper is welded on and lathe down so that it can be thread back through the ball bearing the gear can be attached using the crank bolt to hold it tightly in place.\n\nThe crank arm will need to be cut off using an angle grinder, then again using the angle grinder the crank can be shaped to smooth it back and create a formed shape.\n", "title": "Attaching the Gear ", "caption": "The Finished Attached Gear", "_animationKey": "uniquearuby", @@ -323,7 +323,7 @@ ], "title": "Securing the ball bearing in place", "_animationKey": "unique057hfc", - "text": "### Ball Bearing Housing Instructions\n\nCreate a housing from layered laser-cut aluminum or steel to securely hold the ball bearing and axle. The total thickness of the layers should match the ball bearing's thickness, with a hole matching the bearing's outer diameter. Use an end cap with a diameter between the inner and outer bearing diameters to prevent sliding. Design any shape that attaches to the shredder housing and secures the bearing. \n\nUse 1.5 mm (0.06 inches) internal spacers if needed to prevent movement." + "text": "A ball bearing housing will need to be made to securely hold the ball bearing and therefore the axle in place. The ball bearing housing will need to be made of layers of laser cut aluminium or steel where the total thickness of all the layers equates to the thickness of the ball bearing and has a circular hole cut which is the same diameter as the outside diameter of the ball bearing to hold it securely in place. An end cap with a diameter in-between the inside and outside diameter of the ball bearing will also be needed to stop the ball bearing sliding out. Any shape can be made as long as it is attached to the shredder housing and holds the ball bearing in tight. \n\nI found that I additionally needed 1.5mm spacers on the inside of the ball bearing to stop it moving and keep it locked securely in place.\n" }, { "title": "Securing the shredder in place", @@ -343,7 +343,7 @@ ], "_animationKey": "uniqueec2qzg", "caption": "The Shredder Blades", - "text": "After assembling the shredder, securely connect the axle and gear. Once the shredder is bolted to the support frame, proceed with installing the chain and gearing." + "text": "Once the shredder is assembled with the axle and gear securely connected and the shredder bolted to the support frame the chain and gearing can next be considered. " }, { "title": "Attaching the chain", @@ -362,7 +362,7 @@ "alt": "Step 9 - Image 9.jpg" } ], - "text": "The chain connected to the shredder is crucial for operation, necessitating correct gearing and tight installation. A quick-release chain facilitates easy adjustment and proper length setting before securing it around the gears.\n\nI opted not to use a derailleur to maintain chain tension. Instead, I adjusted the support frame by raising the seatpost attached to the shredder support base, effectively tightening the chain by elevating the shredder.", + "text": "The chain attached to the shredder is the connecting element that allows the bike to shred and so it is important to ensure the gearing is correct and the chain is tight once installed. I used a quick release chain as this allowed me to quickly adjust the chain to the correct length then thread it around the gears before tightening.\n\nIn my process I did not use a derailleur to keep the chain tight instead I used the adjust-ability of the support frame to tighten the chain by raising the Seatpost that was connected to the shredder support base and so pulled the shredder up tightening the chain. \n", "caption": "The Plástico Fantástico Bicycle" }, { @@ -382,7 +382,7 @@ } ], "_animationKey": "uniquetb8vlf", - "text": "I used a 4.6:1 gearing ratio, meaning 4.6 pedal revolutions equate to one shredder revolution, to decrease the shredder's speed while increasing torque. I attached the chain connected to the pedal on the largest gear of the cassette and the chain to the shredder on the smallest gear, which functioned effectively." + "text": "In regards to gearing I looked to use a ratio 4.6:1 where I had 4.6 revolutions of the crank to 1 revolution of the shredder with the intention to reduce the speed of the shredder but increase the torque. The reality was slightly off, I placed the chain connected to the pedal on the inner gear of the cassette (largest) and the chain attached to the shredder on the outer gear of the cassette (smallest) and this proved to work. " }, { "images": [ @@ -423,14 +423,10 @@ "alt": "Step 10 - Image 4.jpg" } ], - "text": "After installing the shredder and attaching the chain, use pedal power to shred plastic. HDPE plastic, being softer, is easier to shred manually. The shredded material can be repurposed into items like flat cladding panels.", + "text": "Once the shredder is installed and the chain attached its time to use the pedal power to shred some plastic! \nIt can be used to shred all sorts of plastic the best proved to be HDPE as this was softer and easier to shred when pedalling. The shredded plastic can then be used to create new plastic inventions such as simple flat cladding panels. ", "title": "Finishing and Using", "_animationKey": "unique63mcdp" } ], - "content": "The adapted bicycle shredder integrates shredding capability with cycling, allowing you to shred plastic for molding while on the move. This specific adaptation draws inspiration from the Precious Plastic Shredder tailored for bicycle use.\n\nFor further inquiries about this adaptation, please contact @jam_goreing on Instagram.\n\nAdditionally, you can view the 3-minute project video [here](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IoSn84Axao8).\n\nThe basic design and instructions for the shredder are available on the Instruction pages.\n\nReduce the number of shredder blades to approximately 9 from the original design for a lighter structure suitable for bicycle mounting. You may add more blades if needed. Adjust the shredder housing depth to match the reduced blade count. Use aluminum or steel for the housing, ensuring blades and spacers remain steel. Aluminum requires bolting the housing instead of welding.\n\nThe housing must be extended downward approximately 2 inches (50 mm) to accommodate a collection tray below the shredder blades. This space in the middle for the collection tray is shown in the images. The collection tray is constructed from clear acrylic that interlocks.\n\nThe shredder requires a sturdy base to accommodate its weight and the force exerted during shredding when attached to a bicycle. A standard bicycle rear rack typically suffices. The rack can be mounted on the bike and modified to secure the shredder.\n\nIn my experiment, I was unsure which bicycle I would use since I intended to rent one upon reaching Chile for the project. Therefore, I designed a versatile support frame compatible with various bicycles.\n\nFor installation, the shredder was placed on an aluminum support base with three steel rods bolted to it, connecting it to the bike. The central rod attached to the seat post via a secondary seat collar. The two side rods connected to the seat stay, each ending with a 0.02-inch (0.5mm) thick steel plate that could be manually wrapped around the frame. An old inner tube served as a rubber lining to secure the support frame and prevent slipping.\n\nThe hopper is constructed from clear acrylic, including the shredded plastic collection tray beneath the blades. It must be securely bolted to the top of the shredder housing. An aluminum casing frame can be added around the hopper for aesthetic purposes, with optional rear storage for collected plastic prior to shredding. Alternative designs are possible without impacting the shredding function or hopper stability.\n\nA used bicycle square taper bottom bracket, along with the crank and crank bolt, is required to attach the gear to the shredder. First, use an angle grinder to cut off the steel square tapered end of the bottom bracket.\n\nA sealed ball bearing is necessary for the blades to spin on the axle. The bearing should accommodate the thickest part of the taper. In my case, the square taper had a maximum diameter of 0.63 inches (16 mm), so a sealed ball bearing with an inner diameter of 0.67 inches (17 mm) was used.\n\nThe axle for the blades is based on the instructional video, featuring a hexagonal design that is turned on a lathe to create rounded ends. These ends are machined to match the diameter of the ball bearing's inner diameter, ensuring a snug fit. The outermost 0.2 inches (5 mm) of the rounded axle is further reduced to match the crank bolt thread diameter. The square taper, pre-threaded through the center, allows the axle, once lathed to the appropriate thickness, to fit securely inside, ensuring proper alignment for welding.\n\nNext, weld the cut-off square taper to the axle. Once welded, machine it on a lathe to fit back through the ball bearing. Attach the gear securely using the crank bolt.\n\nUse an angle grinder to cut off the crank arm. Shape it with the grinder to achieve a smooth, formed finish.\n\n### Ball Bearing Housing Instructions\n\nCreate a housing from layered laser-cut aluminum or steel to securely hold the ball bearing and axle. The total thickness of the layers should match the ball bearing's thickness, with a hole matching the bearing's outer diameter. Use an end cap with a diameter between the inner and outer bearing diameters to prevent sliding. Design any shape that attaches to the shredder housing and secures the bearing. \n\nUse 1.5 mm (0.06 inches) internal spacers if needed to prevent movement.\n\nAfter assembling the shredder, securely connect the axle and gear. Once the shredder is bolted to the support frame, proceed with installing the chain and gearing.\n\nThe chain connected to the shredder is crucial for operation, necessitating correct gearing and tight installation. A quick-release chain facilitates easy adjustment and proper length setting before securing it around the gears.\n\nI opted not to use a derailleur to maintain chain tension. Instead, I adjusted the support frame by raising the seatpost attached to the shredder support base, effectively tightening the chain by elevating the shredder.\n\nI used a 4.6:1 gearing ratio, meaning 4.6 pedal revolutions equate to one shredder revolution, to decrease the shredder's speed while increasing torque. I attached the chain connected to the pedal on the largest gear of the cassette and the chain to the shredder on the smallest gear, which functioned effectively.\n\nAfter installing the shredder and attaching the chain, use pedal power to shred plastic. HDPE plastic, being softer, is easier to shred manually. The shredded material can be repurposed into items like flat cladding panels.", - "keywords": "bicycle shredder, plastic shredding bike, portable plastic shredder, DIY shredder design, Precious Plastic bicycle, mobile recycling, pedal-powered shredder, plastic molding bike, eco-friendly shredding, bicycle modification", - "resources": "## Hardware\n\n- Aluminum/steel shredder housing ([project video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IoSn84Axao8))\n- Bicycle rear rack (modified for shredder mounting)\n- Used bicycle square taper bottom bracket + crank/crank bolt\n- Sealed ball bearing (17mm inner diameter)\n- Steel rods + aluminum support base for frame attachment\n\n## Tools\n\n- Angle grinder (cutting crank arm/taper)\n- Lathe (axle machining)\n- Welding equipment (axle-taper connection)\n- Laser-cutting machine (bearing housing layers)\n- Grinder (shaping crank arm finish)\n\n## Software\n\n- Design software for laser-cut housing (e.g., CAD)\n\n## Materials\n\n- Clear acrylic (hopper/collection tray)\n- Steel spacers (0.5mm thickness)\n- 0.5mm steel plates (frame connectors)\n- Rubber inner tube (anti-slip lining)\n- Bolts/nuts (housing assembly)\n\n## Additional Components\n\n- HDPE plastic (primary shredding material)\n- Quick-release bicycle chain\n- 4.6:1 gear ratio drivetrain\n- Acrylic casing frame (optional aesthetics)\n- Crank bolt (gear attachment)\n\nContact @jam_goreing on Instagram for adaptation details [1].", - "references": "## References\n\n### Articles\n\n- [[filtered] Shredder - Fab Lab Barcelona](https://knowledge.fablabbcn.org/fabrication/machines/precious_plastic_shredder/) [1]\n- [[filtered] Shredder Manual (PDF)](https://www.crutchfieldeng.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/precious-plastic-shredder-manual.pdf) [4]\n\n### Books\n\n- [Do-It-Yourself: Setting Up Your [filtered] Workspace](https://www.plastic.org.au/products/book-diy-pp-workspace) [9]\n\n### YouTube\n\n- [Adapted Bicycle Shredder Project Video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IoSn84Axao8)\n- [[filtered] - Build the Injection (Part 3.3)](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qtZv96ciFIU) [11]\n- [Setup an Injection Workspace and Inject Plastic (Part 7.3)](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hIlmxuz1ZKs) [10]\n\n### Open Source Designs\n\n- Shredder Pro V4 (Fully Built) [8]\n- Upgraded Shredder Box Kit [2]\n- [[filtered] Toolbox - Shredder Instructions](https://[filtered].github.io/academy/build/shredderprorun) [7]\n\n### Manuals\n\n- [[filtered] Shredder User Manual (PDF)](https://www.crutchfieldeng.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/precious-plastic-shredder-manual.pdf) [4]\n\n### Repositories\n\n- [[filtered] Academy GitHub Resources](https://[filtered].github.io/academy/build/shredderprorun) [7]", - "brief": "Cycling-powered shredder innovatively combines biking and recycling by integrating plastic shredding with a bike ride. Perfect for eco-friendly on-the-go recycling." + "content": "The adapted bicycle shredder combines the power of shredding with the joy of cycling so you can collect and shred plastic ready for moulding as you travel from place to place. The adaptation has taken influence form Precious Plastic Shredder that was adapted for use on a bicycle. \n\nFor more information about the adaptation please reach out via Instagram to ‘@​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​jam_goreing’ \n\nOr see the 3 minute project video at (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IoSn84Axao8)\n\n\nThe basic design and instructions for the shredder can be found on the [filtered] Instruction pages ( \n\nInitially the number of shredder blades will need to be reduced down to around 9 from the original design so that the shredder is thin and light enough to be mounted on the back of a bicycle, however more can be incorporated if desired. The depth of the shredder housing will then need to be scaled down in co-ordination with the reduced number of blades. \nFor the housing, aluminium or steel can be used so long as the blades and spacers are still made of steel. Using aluminium will mean that the housing has to be bolted together instead of welded.\n\n\nThe housing will need to be elongated downwards to allow for a collection tray for the shredded plastic that can sit underneath the shredder blades. The housing needs to be elongated down around 50mm allowing a space in the middle for the collection tray as illustrated in the images. The collection tray itself is made of clear acrylic that then slots together. \n\nThe shredder will need a solid base to sit for when it is attached to a bicycle to allow for the weight of the shredder and the force placed upon it when shredding. In most circumstances a traditional bicycle back rack will be sufficient for this task, the back rack can be mounted to the bike and then adapted to secure the shredder.\nDuring my experiment I did not know exactly which bicycle I was going to use, as I planned to rent one when I reached the project testing location of Chile. Due to this I had to create a support frame that would fix to a variety of bicycles.\nDuring my installation the shredder sat on an aluminium support base that had three steel rods bolted to it to create the supporting connection to the bicycle. The central steel rod was attached to the Seatpost via a second Seat Collar around the Seatpost. The two side rods attached to the Seat Stray and at the end of each rod a 0.5mm thickness steel plate was connected that could be wrapped around the frame by hand. An old inner tube acted as a rubber lining to fix the support frame to the bicycle and stop it sliding down. \n\n\nThe hopper is made of clear acyclic along with the shredded plastic collection tray, located under the blades. The hopper will need to be bolted to the top of the shredder housing to lock it in place. A simple aluminium-casing frame can be built around the hopper for aesthetic purposes. This can incorporate at the rear, storage for all the collected waste plastic before it is shredded. Alternative designs can be implemented, as this does not affect the shredding ability or the stability of the hopper. \n\nA used bicycle square taper bottom bracket and corresponding crank and crank bolt will need to be acquired to be able to attach the gear to the shredder. The steel square tapered end of the bottom bracket is first cut off with an angle grinder.\n\nA sealed ball bearing will be needed to allow the blades to spin on the axle. The ball bearing needs to allow the thickest end of the taper to fit through it. In my case the square taper had a maximum diameter of 16mm and so a sealed ball bearing with an inner diameter of 17mm was used. \n\n\nThe axle for the blades is as per the [filtered] instructional video; a hexagonal axle that is lathe down to be round at either end. The axle is lathe down at either end to be the same diameter as the inner diameter of the ball bearing. It is important to ensure there is no gap between the axle and the ball bearing when they are fitted together. \n\nThe very end of the now rounded axle (last 5mm) then has to be lathe down further to the diameter of the crank bolt thread. The cut off square taper is already threaded all the way through the centre and so the axle (once lathe down to the thread thickness) can sit within this to centre the square taper on the axle ready for welding. \n\n\nNext, the cut off square taper will need to be welded onto the axle. Once the square taper is welded on and lathe down so that it can be thread back through the ball bearing the gear can be attached using the crank bolt to hold it tightly in place.\n\nThe crank arm will need to be cut off using an angle grinder, then again using the angle grinder the crank can be shaped to smooth it back and create a formed shape.\n\n\nA ball bearing housing will need to be made to securely hold the ball bearing and therefore the axle in place. The ball bearing housing will need to be made of layers of laser cut aluminium or steel where the total thickness of all the layers equates to the thickness of the ball bearing and has a circular hole cut which is the same diameter as the outside diameter of the ball bearing to hold it securely in place. An end cap with a diameter in-between the inside and outside diameter of the ball bearing will also be needed to stop the ball bearing sliding out. Any shape can be made as long as it is attached to the shredder housing and holds the ball bearing in tight. \n\nI found that I additionally needed 1.5mm spacers on the inside of the ball bearing to stop it moving and keep it locked securely in place.\n\n\nOnce the shredder is assembled with the axle and gear securely connected and the shredder bolted to the support frame the chain and gearing can next be considered. \n\nThe chain attached to the shredder is the connecting element that allows the bike to shred and so it is important to ensure the gearing is correct and the chain is tight once installed. I used a quick release chain as this allowed me to quickly adjust the chain to the correct length then thread it around the gears before tightening.\n\nIn my process I did not use a derailleur to keep the chain tight instead I used the adjust-ability of the support frame to tighten the chain by raising the Seatpost that was connected to the shredder support base and so pulled the shredder up tightening the chain. \n\n\nIn regards to gearing I looked to use a ratio 4.6:1 where I had 4.6 revolutions of the crank to 1 revolution of the shredder with the intention to reduce the speed of the shredder but increase the torque. The reality was slightly off, I placed the chain connected to the pedal on the inner gear of the cassette (largest) and the chain attached to the shredder on the outer gear of the cassette (smallest) and this proved to work. \n\nOnce the shredder is installed and the chain attached its time to use the pedal power to shred some plastic! \nIt can be used to shred all sorts of plastic the best proved to be HDPE as this was softer and easier to shred when pedalling. The shredded plastic can then be used to create new plastic inventions such as simple flat cladding panels. " } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/make-your-own-laptop-stand-59390/README.md b/howtos/make-your-own-laptop-stand-59390/README.md index 3f9490e86..384f3b879 100644 --- a/howtos/make-your-own-laptop-stand-59390/README.md +++ b/howtos/make-your-own-laptop-stand-59390/README.md @@ -1,21 +1,17 @@ --- title: Make your own laptop stand slug: make-your-own-laptop-stand-59390 -description: ### Eco-Friendly Laptop Stand - -Our laptop stand, made from recycled plastic sheets, is designed for ergonomic use. It elevates your laptop to eye level, promoting a healthier posture and reducing neck and shoulder strain. Crafted from durable materials, this stand supports your well-being by repurposing plastic. Enhance your workspace with this practical and eco-conscious design. +description: Introducing our eco-friendly laptop stand, crafted from recycled plastic sheets. This innovative laptop stand is designed with ergonomics in mind, offering a perfect blend of sustainability and comfort. The thoughtfully engineered design elevates your laptop to eye level, promoting a healthier posture and reducing strain on your neck and shoulders. Made from durable recycled plastic, this stand not only supports your well-being but also contributes to a greener planet by repurposing materials that would otherwise go to waste. Elevate your work setup and embrace eco-conscious ergonomics with our recycled plastic laptop stand. tags: ["sheetpress","compression","HDPE"] category: Products difficulty: Easy time: < 5 hours -keywords: eco-friendly laptop stand, recycled plastic laptop stand, ergonomic laptop stand, sustainable workspace solutions, laptop stand from recycled materials, healthy posture laptop stand, CNC machine laptop stand, DIY laptop stand, Bogota eco-friendly products, repurposed plastic laptop stand +keywords: location: Bogota, Colombia --- # Make your own laptop stand ![Make your own laptop stand](portacompu-amarillo-marmol-mesa-cuarto-18b8bc834d6.png) -### Eco-Friendly Laptop Stand - -Our laptop stand, made from recycled plastic sheets, is designed for ergonomic use. It elevates your laptop to eye level, promoting a healthier posture and reducing neck and shoulder strain. Crafted from durable materials, this stand supports your well-being by repurposing plastic. Enhance your workspace with this practical and eco-conscious design. +Introducing our eco-friendly laptop stand, crafted from recycled plastic sheets. This innovative laptop stand is designed with ergonomics in mind, offering a perfect blend of sustainability and comfort. The thoughtfully engineered design elevates your laptop to eye level, promoting a healthier posture and reducing strain on your neck and shoulders. Made from durable recycled plastic, this stand not only supports your well-being but also contributes to a greener planet by repurposing materials that would otherwise go to waste. Elevate your work setup and embrace eco-conscious ergonomics with our recycled plastic laptop stand. User Location: Bogota, Colombia ## Steps @@ -23,27 +19,26 @@ User Location: Bogota, Colombia You will need: -- 1 HDPE sheet, 45x45x1 cm (17.7x17.7x0.4 in); adjust CNC file if thicker than 1 cm -- CNC machine or cutting service provider -- Chisel -- Sandpaper +- 1 HDPE 45x45x1 cm ( in case it´s thicker than 1cm adjust cnc file ) +- cnc machine ( or someone that provides de cutting service ) +- chisel +- sandpaper ![WhatsApp Image 2023-11-01 at 12.52.28 PM-18b8c048887.jpeg](./WhatsApp_Image_2023-11-01_at_12.52.28_PM-18b8c048887.jpeg) ### Step 2: File in the CNC machine -Utilize the file adapted for the CNC machine. - -- Consider the diameter of the CNC milling cutter to maintain the accuracy of part dimensions. -- Vacuum microplastics to facilitate their reuse in creating plastic sheets, often employed for prototyping new products. +Use the file converted to the cnc machine. +- Take into account the diameter of the cnc milling cutter so the dimmensions of the parts do not change. +-Make sure to vacuum the microplastics in order to be able to transform them again into plastic sheets ( we usually use this kind to prototype new products ) ![WhatsApp Image 2023-11-01 at 12.31.58 PM-18b8bf15cd6.jpeg](./WhatsApp_Image_2023-11-01_at_12.31.58_PM-18b8bf15cd6.jpeg) ### Step 3: Soften the edges -The CNC machine leaves a support. Remove it with a chisel, then smooth the edges with sandpaper. +The cnc machine leaves a support, now its time to get rid off it with the chisel, and after that we can soften the edges with the sandpaper. ![porta-copu-azuñ-metamorfica-18b8bf1d018.png](./porta-copu-azun-metamorfica-18b8bf1d018.png) @@ -53,9 +48,9 @@ The CNC machine leaves a support. Remove it with a chisel, then smooth the edges ### Step 4: Assemble and enjoy! -Now you can assemble your laptop by fitting its pieces together. +Now you can use your laptoppie assembling by fitting its pieces together :) -[Video Guide](https://www.instagram.com/reel/CrwQ3O9paN-/) +instagram.com: instagram.com/reel/CrwQ3O9paN- ( here´s a short video guide ) ![portacompu-morado-marmol-mesa-cuarto-18b8c06ffad.png](./portacompu-morado-marmol-mesa-cuarto-18b8c06ffad.png) @@ -64,38 +59,4 @@ Now you can assemble your laptop by fitting its pieces together. ![portacompu-caja-amarillo-18b8c071459.png](./portacompu-caja-amarillo-18b8c071459.png) ## Resources -### Materials - -- Recycled HDPE sheet (45×45×1 cm; adjust CNC file for sheets >1 cm thick) - -### Tools - -- Chisel (for removing CNC support material) -- Sandpaper (for edge smoothing) - -### Hardware - -- CNC machine or cutting service provider -- Vacuum (for microplastic collection/reuse) - -### Additional Resources - -- [Assembly video guide](https://www.instagram.com/reel/CrwQ3O9paN-/) -## References -### Articles - -- https://www.trendhunter.com/trends/gflow-stone -- https://wisehabit.com/product-eng-608-G-Flow-eco-friendly-laptop-stand-black.html -- https://www.tomshardware.com/laptops/laptop-stand-created-from-a-single-sheet-of-recycled-paper-supports-up-to-10-pounds-the-included-cardboard-case-also-serves-as-a-phone-stand -- https://www.yankodesign.com/2019/10/28/who-knew-you-could-make-an-incredibly-effective-laptop-stand-out-of-folded-paper/ -- https://materialdistrict.com/article/lightweight-laptop-stand-made-from-recycled-paper/ -- https://www.colebrookbossonsaunders.com/en-us/blogs/news/world-s-first-100-recyclable-folding-laptop-stand-wins-good-design-award - -### Opensource Designs - -- https://community.preciousplastic.com/library/make-your-own-laptop-stand-59390 -- https://gist.github.com/camilasrody/9527416fa46a13ba0ab752ca9410ff7b - -### Youtube - -- https://www.instagram.com/reel/CrwQ3O9paN-/ \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/make-your-own-laptop-stand-59390/config.json b/howtos/make-your-own-laptop-stand-59390/config.json index 9861d888d..a65dccf51 100644 --- a/howtos/make-your-own-laptop-stand-59390/config.json +++ b/howtos/make-your-own-laptop-stand-59390/config.json @@ -5,7 +5,7 @@ "steps": [ { "_animationKey": "unique1", - "text": "You will need:\n\n- 1 HDPE sheet, 45x45x1 cm (17.7x17.7x0.4 in); adjust CNC file if thicker than 1 cm\n- CNC machine or cutting service provider\n- Chisel\n- Sandpaper", + "text": "You will need:\n\n- 1 HDPE 45x45x1 cm ( in case it´s thicker than 1cm adjust cnc file ) \n- cnc machine ( or someone that provides de cutting service )\n- chisel \n- sandpaper", "title": "Prepare your tools!", "images": [ { @@ -23,7 +23,7 @@ ] }, { - "text": "Utilize the file adapted for the CNC machine.\n\n- Consider the diameter of the CNC milling cutter to maintain the accuracy of part dimensions.\n- Vacuum microplastics to facilitate their reuse in creating plastic sheets, often employed for prototyping new products.", + "text": "Use the file converted to the cnc machine. \n- Take into account the diameter of the cnc milling cutter so the dimmensions of the parts do not change. \n-Make sure to vacuum the microplastics in order to be able to transform them again into plastic sheets ( we usually use this kind to prototype new products )", "_animationKey": "unique2", "title": "File in the CNC machine", "images": [ @@ -43,7 +43,7 @@ }, { "_animationKey": "unique3", - "text": "The CNC machine leaves a support. Remove it with a chisel, then smooth the edges with sandpaper.", + "text": "The cnc machine leaves a support, now its time to get rid off it with the chisel, and after that we can soften the edges with the sandpaper.", "title": "Soften the edges", "images": [ { @@ -73,7 +73,7 @@ ] }, { - "text": "Now you can assemble your laptop by fitting its pieces together.\n\n[Video Guide](https://www.instagram.com/reel/CrwQ3O9paN-/)", + "text": "Now you can use your laptoppie assembling by fitting its pieces together :) \n\ninstagram.com: instagram.com/reel/CrwQ3O9paN- ( here´s a short video guide )", "title": "Assemble and enjoy!", "images": [ { @@ -163,7 +163,7 @@ }, "_modified": "2024-01-31T17:01:12.005Z", "title": "Make your own laptop stand", - "description": "### Eco-Friendly Laptop Stand\n\nOur laptop stand, made from recycled plastic sheets, is designed for ergonomic use. It elevates your laptop to eye level, promoting a healthier posture and reducing neck and shoulder strain. Crafted from durable materials, this stand supports your well-being by repurposing plastic. Enhance your workspace with this practical and eco-conscious design.", + "description": "Introducing our eco-friendly laptop stand, crafted from recycled plastic sheets. This innovative laptop stand is designed with ergonomics in mind, offering a perfect blend of sustainability and comfort. The thoughtfully engineered design elevates your laptop to eye level, promoting a healthier posture and reducing strain on your neck and shoulders. Made from durable recycled plastic, this stand not only supports your well-being but also contributes to a greener planet by repurposing materials that would otherwise go to waste. Elevate your work setup and embrace eco-conscious ergonomics with our recycled plastic laptop stand.", "total_views": 190, "difficulty_level": "Easy", "user": { @@ -293,9 +293,5 @@ "urls": [] } }, - "content": "### Eco-Friendly Laptop Stand\n\nOur laptop stand, made from recycled plastic sheets, is designed for ergonomic use. It elevates your laptop to eye level, promoting a healthier posture and reducing neck and shoulder strain. Crafted from durable materials, this stand supports your well-being by repurposing plastic. Enhance your workspace with this practical and eco-conscious design.\n\n\nUser Location: Bogota, Colombia\n\nYou will need:\n\n- 1 HDPE sheet, 45x45x1 cm (17.7x17.7x0.4 in); adjust CNC file if thicker than 1 cm\n- CNC machine or cutting service provider\n- Chisel\n- Sandpaper\n\nUtilize the file adapted for the CNC machine.\n\n- Consider the diameter of the CNC milling cutter to maintain the accuracy of part dimensions.\n- Vacuum microplastics to facilitate their reuse in creating plastic sheets, often employed for prototyping new products.\n\nThe CNC machine leaves a support. Remove it with a chisel, then smooth the edges with sandpaper.\n\nNow you can assemble your laptop by fitting its pieces together.\n\n[Video Guide](https://www.instagram.com/reel/CrwQ3O9paN-/)", - "keywords": "eco-friendly laptop stand, recycled plastic laptop stand, ergonomic laptop stand, sustainable workspace solutions, laptop stand from recycled materials, healthy posture laptop stand, CNC machine laptop stand, DIY laptop stand, Bogota eco-friendly products, repurposed plastic laptop stand", - "resources": "### Materials\n\n- Recycled HDPE sheet (45×45×1 cm; adjust CNC file for sheets >1 cm thick)\n\n### Tools\n\n- Chisel (for removing CNC support material)\n- Sandpaper (for edge smoothing)\n\n### Hardware\n\n- CNC machine or cutting service provider\n- Vacuum (for microplastic collection/reuse)\n\n### Additional Resources\n\n- [Assembly video guide](https://www.instagram.com/reel/CrwQ3O9paN-/)", - "references": "### Articles\n\n- https://www.trendhunter.com/trends/gflow-stone\n- https://wisehabit.com/product-eng-608-G-Flow-eco-friendly-laptop-stand-black.html\n- https://www.tomshardware.com/laptops/laptop-stand-created-from-a-single-sheet-of-recycled-paper-supports-up-to-10-pounds-the-included-cardboard-case-also-serves-as-a-phone-stand\n- https://www.yankodesign.com/2019/10/28/who-knew-you-could-make-an-incredibly-effective-laptop-stand-out-of-folded-paper/\n- https://materialdistrict.com/article/lightweight-laptop-stand-made-from-recycled-paper/\n- https://www.colebrookbossonsaunders.com/en-us/blogs/news/world-s-first-100-recyclable-folding-laptop-stand-wins-good-design-award\n\n### Opensource Designs\n\n- https://community.preciousplastic.com/library/make-your-own-laptop-stand-59390\n- https://gist.github.com/camilasrody/9527416fa46a13ba0ab752ca9410ff7b\n\n### Youtube\n\n- https://www.instagram.com/reel/CrwQ3O9paN-/", - "brief": "Eco-friendly laptop stand made from recycled plastic. Promotes ergonomic posture, reduces neck strain. Durable, sustainable design for a healthier workspace." + "content": "Introducing our eco-friendly laptop stand, crafted from recycled plastic sheets. This innovative laptop stand is designed with ergonomics in mind, offering a perfect blend of sustainability and comfort. The thoughtfully engineered design elevates your laptop to eye level, promoting a healthier posture and reducing strain on your neck and shoulders. Made from durable recycled plastic, this stand not only supports your well-being but also contributes to a greener planet by repurposing materials that would otherwise go to waste. Elevate your work setup and embrace eco-conscious ergonomics with our recycled plastic laptop stand.\n\n\nUser Location: Bogota, Colombia\n\nYou will need:\n\n- 1 HDPE 45x45x1 cm ( in case it´s thicker than 1cm adjust cnc file ) \n- cnc machine ( or someone that provides de cutting service )\n- chisel \n- sandpaper\n\nUse the file converted to the cnc machine. \n- Take into account the diameter of the cnc milling cutter so the dimmensions of the parts do not change. \n-Make sure to vacuum the microplastics in order to be able to transform them again into plastic sheets ( we usually use this kind to prototype new products )\n\nThe cnc machine leaves a support, now its time to get rid off it with the chisel, and after that we can soften the edges with the sandpaper.\n\nNow you can use your laptoppie assembling by fitting its pieces together :) \n\ninstagram.com: instagram.com/reel/CrwQ3O9paN- ( here´s a short video guide )" } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/make-your-shelf/README.md b/howtos/make-your-shelf/README.md index ba2443352..c0c8b9b17 100644 --- a/howtos/make-your-shelf/README.md +++ b/howtos/make-your-shelf/README.md @@ -1,27 +1,23 @@ --- title: Make your shelf slug: make-your-shelf -description: ### How to Build Shelves and Small Furniture - -Learn to construct shelves or small furniture using the extruder and injection machine. +description: Learn to build shelves or small furniture using the extruder and the injection machine. tags: ["mould","PP","HDPE","extrusion"] category: Products difficulty: Medium time: < 1 day -keywords: build shelves, small furniture, extruder machine, injection machine, square tube, furniture construction, San Javier furniture, DIY furniture, furniture mold, menorplastic +keywords: location: San Javier, Spain --- # Make your shelf ![Make your shelf](menor-2.jpg) -### How to Build Shelves and Small Furniture - -Learn to construct shelves or small furniture using the extruder and injection machine. +Learn to build shelves or small furniture using the extruder and the injection machine. User Location: San Javier, Spain ## Steps ### Step 1: Make the beam -We will use a square tube with a diameter of 2 cm (0.79 inches) and a length of 40 cm (15.75 inches). Hold it carefully to avoid burns; no need to screw it in. +We will use a square tube 2cm in diameter and 40cm long. You don't need to screw it in, you can hold it carefully not to burn yourself by hand. ![tamaño.jpg](./tamano.jpg) @@ -34,14 +30,14 @@ We will use a square tube with a diameter of 2 cm (0.79 inches) and a length of ### Step 2: Cut and drill holes -For this model, the following measurements are used: +For this model we have used: -- 14 inches (35.5 cm) x 3 -- 7.7 inches (19.5 cm) x 2 -- 5.5 inches (14 cm) x 2 -- 7.1 inches (18 cm) x 2 +- 35.5cm x 3 +- 19,5cm x 2 +- 14cm x 2 +- 18cm x 2 -Modify as needed for different sizes. +Feel free to make your modifications if you need it bigger or smaller. ![hole.jpg](./hole.jpg) @@ -54,9 +50,11 @@ Modify as needed for different sizes. ### Step 3: Assemble the base -Using the mold for the injection machine with a square shape measuring 14 cm x 14 cm (5.5 in x 5.5 in), we will produce 8 units that can be easily glued or screwed. +Using the mold for the injection machine with a square shape and measures of 14cm x 14cm. We will make 8 units that we can easily glue or screw. -For more information, visit www.menorplastic.com. +If you liked it, you can follow our project and see all our products at www.menorplastic.com + +Thanks for your support 😊 ![1.jpg](./1.jpg) @@ -68,40 +66,4 @@ For more information, visit www.menorplastic.com. ![base.jpg](./base.jpg) ## Resources -### Tools - -- Extruder (~~~~[More info](www.menorplastic.com)~~~~) -- Injection machine ([More info](www.menorplastic.com)) - -### Hardware - -- 2 cm (0.79") square tubes – 40 cm (15.75") length -- Square mold (14 cm x 14 cm / 5.5 in x 5.5 in) -- Heat-resistant handling gear (to prevent burns) - -### Software - -- No software specified in the tutorial - -### Materials - -- Plastic pellets (for injection molding, inferred) -- Adhesive/screws (for assembly) - -All measurements and adjustments should align with the provided dimensions (e.g., 35.5 cm, 19.5 cm pieces). Customize sizing via ~~[Menorplastic’s resources](www.menorplastic.com)~~[1]. -## References -## References - -### Articles - -- [Advanced Plastiform - Furniture Part Manufacturing](https://advancedplastiform.com/industries/furniture/) -- [EFI Custom Injection Molding for Furniture](https://www.eficustominjectionmolding.com/furniture/) - -### YouTube - -- [The SHELF that will NEVER SAG | Custom Aluminum Extrusion Shelf](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ALlPoaSD9bU) - -### Open Source Designs - -- Menor Plastic - Precious Furniture Techniques -- ~~[Menor Plastic Official Website](https://www.menorplastic.com)~~ \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/make-your-shelf/config.json b/howtos/make-your-shelf/config.json index 32049c399..6bf7830ff 100644 --- a/howtos/make-your-shelf/config.json +++ b/howtos/make-your-shelf/config.json @@ -1,6 +1,6 @@ { "slug": "make-your-shelf", - "description": "### How to Build Shelves and Small Furniture\n\nLearn to construct shelves or small furniture using the extruder and injection machine.", + "description": "Learn to build shelves or small furniture using the extruder and the injection machine. ", "_modified": "2024-01-08T07:27:47.138Z", "steps": [ { @@ -42,13 +42,13 @@ "alt": "viga.jpg" } ], - "text": "We will use a square tube with a diameter of 2 cm (0.79 inches) and a length of 40 cm (15.75 inches). Hold it carefully to avoid burns; no need to screw it in.", + "text": "We will use a square tube 2cm in diameter and 40cm long. You don't need to screw it in, you can hold it carefully not to burn yourself by hand.", "title": "Make the beam", "_animationKey": "unique1" }, { "_animationKey": "unique2", - "text": "For this model, the following measurements are used:\n\n- 14 inches (35.5 cm) x 3\n- 7.7 inches (19.5 cm) x 2\n- 5.5 inches (14 cm) x 2\n- 7.1 inches (18 cm) x 2\n\nModify as needed for different sizes.", + "text": "For this model we have used:\n\n- 35.5cm x 3\n- 19,5cm x 2\n- 14cm x 2\n- 18cm x 2\n\nFeel free to make your modifications if you need it bigger or smaller.", "title": "Cut and drill holes", "images": [ { @@ -90,7 +90,7 @@ ] }, { - "text": "Using the mold for the injection machine with a square shape measuring 14 cm x 14 cm (5.5 in x 5.5 in), we will produce 8 units that can be easily glued or screwed.\n\nFor more information, visit www.menorplastic.com.", + "text": "Using the mold for the injection machine with a square shape and measures of 14cm x 14cm. We will make 8 units that we can easily glue or screw.\n\nIf you liked it, you can follow our project and see all our products at www.menorplastic.com\n\nThanks for your support 😊", "_animationKey": "unique3", "title": "Assemble the base", "images": [ @@ -327,9 +327,5 @@ "urls": [] } }, - "content": "### How to Build Shelves and Small Furniture\n\nLearn to construct shelves or small furniture using the extruder and injection machine.\n\n\nUser Location: San Javier, Spain\n\nWe will use a square tube with a diameter of 2 cm (0.79 inches) and a length of 40 cm (15.75 inches). Hold it carefully to avoid burns; no need to screw it in.\n\nFor this model, the following measurements are used:\n\n- 14 inches (35.5 cm) x 3\n- 7.7 inches (19.5 cm) x 2\n- 5.5 inches (14 cm) x 2\n- 7.1 inches (18 cm) x 2\n\nModify as needed for different sizes.\n\nUsing the mold for the injection machine with a square shape measuring 14 cm x 14 cm (5.5 in x 5.5 in), we will produce 8 units that can be easily glued or screwed.\n\nFor more information, visit www.menorplastic.com.", - "keywords": "build shelves, small furniture, extruder machine, injection machine, square tube, furniture construction, San Javier furniture, DIY furniture, furniture mold, menorplastic", - "resources": "### Tools\n\n- Extruder (~~~~[More info](www.menorplastic.com)~~~~)\n- Injection machine ([More info](www.menorplastic.com))\n\n### Hardware\n\n- 2 cm (0.79\") square tubes – 40 cm (15.75\") length\n- Square mold (14 cm x 14 cm / 5.5 in x 5.5 in)\n- Heat-resistant handling gear (to prevent burns)\n\n### Software\n\n- No software specified in the tutorial\n\n### Materials\n\n- Plastic pellets (for injection molding, inferred)\n- Adhesive/screws (for assembly)\n\nAll measurements and adjustments should align with the provided dimensions (e.g., 35.5 cm, 19.5 cm pieces). Customize sizing via ~~[Menorplastic’s resources](www.menorplastic.com)~~[1].", - "references": "## References\n\n### Articles\n\n- [Advanced Plastiform - Furniture Part Manufacturing](https://advancedplastiform.com/industries/furniture/)\n- [EFI Custom Injection Molding for Furniture](https://www.eficustominjectionmolding.com/furniture/)\n\n### YouTube\n\n- [The SHELF that will NEVER SAG | Custom Aluminum Extrusion Shelf](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ALlPoaSD9bU)\n\n### Open Source Designs\n\n- Menor Plastic - Precious Furniture Techniques\n- ~~[Menor Plastic Official Website](https://www.menorplastic.com)~~", - "brief": "Learn to build shelves or small furniture with extrusion and injection machines. Follow precise measurements and safely handle materials to create custom pieces." + "content": "Learn to build shelves or small furniture using the extruder and the injection machine. \n\n\nUser Location: San Javier, Spain\n\nWe will use a square tube 2cm in diameter and 40cm long. You don't need to screw it in, you can hold it carefully not to burn yourself by hand.\n\nFor this model we have used:\n\n- 35.5cm x 3\n- 19,5cm x 2\n- 14cm x 2\n- 18cm x 2\n\nFeel free to make your modifications if you need it bigger or smaller.\n\nUsing the mold for the injection machine with a square shape and measures of 14cm x 14cm. We will make 8 units that we can easily glue or screw.\n\nIf you liked it, you can follow our project and see all our products at www.menorplastic.com\n\nThanks for your support 😊" } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/mobile-plastic-recycling-unit-/README.md b/howtos/mobile-plastic-recycling-unit-/README.md index afae897b4..6245d4eae 100644 --- a/howtos/mobile-plastic-recycling-unit-/README.md +++ b/howtos/mobile-plastic-recycling-unit-/README.md @@ -1,33 +1,53 @@ --- title: Mobile Plastic Recycling Unit slug: mobile-plastic-recycling-unit- -description: In this project, we created a mobile unit for recycling plastic in various locations, initiating the process directly at the source while providing training. The unit is mounted on an electric vehicle to minimize emissions and has been tested with solar power. +description: In this Project, we made a Moblie Plastic Recycling Unit through which we can recycle plastic at multiple locations and initiate the recycling process at the source, and also provide training along the process. + +This setup is placed on an electric vehicle which further adds to reducing carbon emissions and also tried operating the system on a solar panel. + + tags: ["untagged"] category: Machines difficulty: Medium time: 1-2 weeks -keywords: mobile recycling unit, plastic recycling, electric vehicle recycling, solar-powered recycling, machine installation, weight distribution, shredder machine, extrusion unit, injection machine, eco-friendly vehicle +keywords: location: Dadri, India --- # Mobile Plastic Recycling Unit ![Mobile Plastic Recycling Unit ](IMG_20230330_131905-188a1c7e224.jpg) -In this project, we created a mobile unit for recycling plastic in various locations, initiating the process directly at the source while providing training. The unit is mounted on an electric vehicle to minimize emissions and has been tested with solar power. +In this Project, we made a Moblie Plastic Recycling Unit through which we can recycle plastic at multiple locations and initiate the recycling process at the source, and also provide training along the process. + +This setup is placed on an electric vehicle which further adds to reducing carbon emissions and also tried operating the system on a solar panel. + + User Location: Dadri, India ## Steps ### Step 1: Planning the setup -### Key Considerations for Project Planning +Few key aspects to consider while planning + +1. Selecting the right vehicle for the project that can fit all your machines and can handle their weight. + +2. Considering a stable platform during the operations + +3. Strong and stable chassis to bear the weight and can abrobe the vibration in terms of shredder + + + +We selected an electrical Vehicle as it will reduce the carbon footprint and can also be customized according to our requirements. + + +We tried designing in a way where we can increase the working area and can also add a foldable roof that will further help during the bad weather. + + +We have a working area of 8 x 7 feet and we tried to install 2 machines in it. We had 2 vehicles so we managed to put shredder, injection and Extrusion. + + -1. Select a vehicle that accommodates all machinery and supports their weight. - -2. Ensure a stable platform during operations. -3. Use a strong chassis to support weight and absorb vibrations, such as those from a shredder. -We chose an electric vehicle that can be customized to meet our needs. It was designed to maximize the working area and includes a foldable roof for weather protection. -Our workspace measures 8 x 7 feet (2.4 x 2.1 meters), allowing the installation of two machines per vehicle. With two vehicles, we installed a shredder, injection, and extrusion unit. ![IMG_20230315_092411-188a0283b85.jpg](./IMG_20230315_092411-188a0283b85.jpg) @@ -40,32 +60,41 @@ Our workspace measures 8 x 7 feet (2.4 x 2.1 meters), allowing the installation ### Step 2: Making the body of the unit -We began with the outer body, considering constraints like weight, size, and durability. +We started with the outer body of the unit as we have few constrians like weight, size and durability. -Initially, a metal tube frame was constructed, followed by metal sheet coverage. -The base was reinforced for stability, accommodating individuals operating the machines. +First we made a frame with metal tubes and then started covering it with metal sheets. + +We tried to keep the base more stable and stong as people will be standing on it while working on the machines. + +Roof height is adjutable up to 7 feet and could be lower to 4.5 feet. Roof side is made with pannels + +Roofing is done with metal tube and fiber sheets as we have weight limitations with the whole system. + +We added a wooden base as a flooring and painted everything nicely. + -The roof height is adjustable between 7 feet and 4.5 feet (213.4 cm and 137.2 cm). It is constructed with panels. -Roofing utilizes metal tubes and fiber sheets to maintain a light system. -A wooden base serves as flooring, and all components were carefully painted. ![IMG_20230329_161215-188a1bb276d.jpg](./IMG_20230329_161215-188a1bb276d.jpg) ### Step 3: Machine Installation -While installing the machines, we focused on the following: +While installing the machines we worked on few things like -1. Distributing the machine's weight evenly on each vehicle +1. Proper weight distribution of the machine on each vehicle -2. Securing the machine to the base to ensure stability during transport and use +2. Bolting the machine with the base so that it will stick to the base during travel and operations. -The shredder, being heavier, was placed individually in one vehicle for balanced weight distribution. In another vehicle, we positioned the extrusion and injection machines with sufficient space for safe and efficient operation. -We installed a small panel on the vehicle to connect to either solar or main power sources as needed. The machines are linked to this panel, which includes the main switch. +Shredder was the heavier, so it we placed a single shredder on one vehicle due to overall weight distribution. + +On another vehicle we placed Extrusion and Injection machine keeping some space in between to work safely and easily on the setup. + + +We made a small panel on the vehicle which could be connected with both solar and main power grid as per requirement. Machines are connected with that panel and also consist of the main switch. ![IMG_20230328_143831-188a1c3a2b3.jpg](./IMG_20230328_143831-188a1c3a2b3.jpg) @@ -78,69 +107,15 @@ We installed a small panel on the vehicle to connect to either solar or main pow ### Step 4: Test Run -After installation, we performed a test run to assess the machine's functionality and ensure the setup's stability, adding support structures around the vehicle. +After installation we did a test run to check the working of the machine. Tested the stability of the overall setup and also added some supporting structures around the vehicle. -The process is straightforward once the space requirements are clear. -We made several mistakes during our process but are willing to offer assistance to others attempting the same. +Overall process is quite easy once you figure out the type of space you are planning for. + +We did several mistakes during the process but willing to help if anyone is trying for same. ![IMG_20230330_134704-188a1c893d9.jpg](./IMG_20230330_134704-188a1c893d9.jpg) ## Resources -### Hardware - -- Electric vehicle with foldable roof and reinforced chassis[1][2] -- Metal tube frame with sheet coverage[1][5] -- Wooden base flooring[1][7] -- Plastic shredder unit[1][6] -- Extrusion and injection molding machines[1][6] - -### Tools - -- Metal tube welding and cutting equipment[1][5] -- Metal sheet forming tools[1][5] -- Reinforced base construction tools (wood/metal)[1][7] -- Adjustable roof installation tools (panels, fiber sheets)[1][8] -- Support structure assembly tools for stability tests[1][10] - -### Software - -*(No specialized software mentioned in the implementation)* - -### Electrical Components - -- Dual-power connection panel (solar/main grid)[1][9] -- Energy distribution system with main switch[1][9] -- Electric vehicle charging infrastructure[1][2] -- Machine power wiring and connectors[1][9] - -### Safety & Stability - -- Weight-balanced vehicle mounting[1][4][6] -- Machine anchoring mechanisms[1][10] -- Reinforced chassis for vibration absorption[1][3] -- Weather-resistant roof panels[1][8] -- Post-installation stability testing protocols[1][10] -## References -### Articles - -- [Trashpresso, a Mobile Recycling Plant that Transforms Plastic Waste](https://www.imnovation-hub.com/construction/trashpresso-mobile-recycling-plant-transform-plastic-waste/) -- ~~[Advanced Recycling Technologies - America's Plastic Makers](https://plasticmakers.org/our-solutions/advanced-recycling-technologies/)~~ - -### Papers - -- [Interactions Between Fixed and Mobile Recycling Facilities (PDF)](https://www.efdinitiative.org/sites/default/files/2024-05/MS-1684.pdf) -- [Advancing Plastic Recycling: Challenges and Opportunities in the Circular Economy](https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC10575100/) - -### Books - -- [Complete Technology Book of Plastic Processing and Recycling of Plastics](https://www.abebooks.com/9789380772578/complete-technology-book-plastic-processing-9380772572/plp) - -### YouTube - -- [The Invention Turning Waste to Resource | ABC Australia](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yjSxoikFCSU) - -### Opensource Designs - -- [[filtered] by Dave Hakkens: Open-Source Recycling Workshop](https://www.designboom.com/technology/precious-plastic-dave-hakkens-recycling-workshop-06-02-2014/) \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/mobile-plastic-recycling-unit-/config.json b/howtos/mobile-plastic-recycling-unit-/config.json index 6e8bf8f71..87358714e 100644 --- a/howtos/mobile-plastic-recycling-unit-/config.json +++ b/howtos/mobile-plastic-recycling-unit-/config.json @@ -74,7 +74,7 @@ "alt": "IMG_20230322_132944-188a1bafb9e.jpg" } ], - "text": "### Key Considerations for Project Planning\n\n1. Select a vehicle that accommodates all machinery and supports their weight.\n \n2. Ensure a stable platform during operations.\n\n3. Use a strong chassis to support weight and absorb vibrations, such as those from a shredder.\n\nWe chose an electric vehicle that can be customized to meet our needs. It was designed to maximize the working area and includes a foldable roof for weather protection.\n\nOur workspace measures 8 x 7 feet (2.4 x 2.1 meters), allowing the installation of two machines per vehicle. With two vehicles, we installed a shredder, injection, and extrusion unit." + "text": "Few key aspects to consider while planning\n\n1. Selecting the right vehicle for the project that can fit all your machines and can handle their weight. \n\n2. Considering a stable platform during the operations \n\n3. Strong and stable chassis to bear the weight and can abrobe the vibration in terms of shredder \n\n\n\nWe selected an electrical Vehicle as it will reduce the carbon footprint and can also be customized according to our requirements. \n\n\nWe tried designing in a way where we can increase the working area and can also add a foldable roof that will further help during the bad weather.\n\n\nWe have a working area of 8 x 7 feet and we tried to install 2 machines in it. We had 2 vehicles so we managed to put shredder, injection and Extrusion. \n\n\n\n\n\n" }, { "_animationKey": "unique2", @@ -92,7 +92,7 @@ "alt": "IMG_20230329_161215-188a1bb276d.jpg" } ], - "text": "We began with the outer body, considering constraints like weight, size, and durability. \n\nInitially, a metal tube frame was constructed, followed by metal sheet coverage. \n\nThe base was reinforced for stability, accommodating individuals operating the machines. \n\nThe roof height is adjustable between 7 feet and 4.5 feet (213.4 cm and 137.2 cm). It is constructed with panels. \n\nRoofing utilizes metal tubes and fiber sheets to maintain a light system. \n\nA wooden base serves as flooring, and all components were carefully painted.", + "text": "We started with the outer body of the unit as we have few constrians like weight, size and durability. \n\n\nFirst we made a frame with metal tubes and then started covering it with metal sheets. \n\nWe tried to keep the base more stable and stong as people will be standing on it while working on the machines. \n\nRoof height is adjutable up to 7 feet and could be lower to 4.5 feet. Roof side is made with pannels \n\nRoofing is done with metal tube and fiber sheets as we have weight limitations with the whole system. \n\nWe added a wooden base as a flooring and painted everything nicely.\n\n\n\n", "title": "Making the body of the unit" }, { @@ -136,7 +136,7 @@ "alt": "IMG_20230330_134647-188a1c8692b.jpg" } ], - "text": "While installing the machines, we focused on the following:\n\n1. Distributing the machine's weight evenly on each vehicle \n\n2. Securing the machine to the base to ensure stability during transport and use\n\nThe shredder, being heavier, was placed individually in one vehicle for balanced weight distribution. In another vehicle, we positioned the extrusion and injection machines with sufficient space for safe and efficient operation.\n\nWe installed a small panel on the vehicle to connect to either solar or main power sources as needed. The machines are linked to this panel, which includes the main switch." + "text": "While installing the machines we worked on few things like\n\n1. Proper weight distribution of the machine on each vehicle\n\n2. Bolting the machine with the base so that it will stick to the base during travel and operations. \n\n\nShredder was the heavier, so it we placed a single shredder on one vehicle due to overall weight distribution. \n\nOn another vehicle we placed Extrusion and Injection machine keeping some space in between to work safely and easily on the setup. \n\n\nWe made a small panel on the vehicle which could be connected with both solar and main power grid as per requirement. Machines are connected with that panel and also consist of the main switch. " }, { "images": [ @@ -154,7 +154,7 @@ } ], "_animationKey": "uniquenrbamk", - "text": "After installation, we performed a test run to assess the machine's functionality and ensure the setup's stability, adding support structures around the vehicle.\n\nThe process is straightforward once the space requirements are clear.\n\nWe made several mistakes during our process but are willing to offer assistance to others attempting the same.", + "text": "After installation we did a test run to check the working of the machine. Tested the stability of the overall setup and also added some supporting structures around the vehicle. \n\n\nOverall process is quite easy once you figure out the type of space you are planning for. \n\nWe did several mistakes during the process but willing to help if anyone is trying for same. ", "title": "Test Run " } ], @@ -164,7 +164,7 @@ "mobile-plastic-recycling-unit-" ], "files": [], - "description": "In this project, we created a mobile unit for recycling plastic in various locations, initiating the process directly at the source while providing training. The unit is mounted on an electric vehicle to minimize emissions and has been tested with solar power.", + "description": "In this Project, we made a Moblie Plastic Recycling Unit through which we can recycle plastic at multiple locations and initiate the recycling process at the source, and also provide training along the process. \n\nThis setup is placed on an electric vehicle which further adds to reducing carbon emissions and also tried operating the system on a solar panel.\n\n", "_created": "2023-06-09T20:11:23.303Z", "cover_image": { "downloadUrl": "https://firebasestorage.googleapis.com/v0/b/onearmyworld.appspot.com/o/uploads%2Fhowtos%2FhhawesXbwxQIQ9mlkExT%2FIMG_20230330_131905-188a1c7e224.jpg?alt=media&token=79363be2-e298-43c1-bb7c-7afaccc26ef4", @@ -345,9 +345,5 @@ "images": [] } }, - "content": "In this project, we created a mobile unit for recycling plastic in various locations, initiating the process directly at the source while providing training. The unit is mounted on an electric vehicle to minimize emissions and has been tested with solar power.\n\n\nUser Location: Dadri, India\n\n### Key Considerations for Project Planning\n\n1. Select a vehicle that accommodates all machinery and supports their weight.\n \n2. Ensure a stable platform during operations.\n\n3. Use a strong chassis to support weight and absorb vibrations, such as those from a shredder.\n\nWe chose an electric vehicle that can be customized to meet our needs. It was designed to maximize the working area and includes a foldable roof for weather protection.\n\nOur workspace measures 8 x 7 feet (2.4 x 2.1 meters), allowing the installation of two machines per vehicle. With two vehicles, we installed a shredder, injection, and extrusion unit.\n\nWe began with the outer body, considering constraints like weight, size, and durability. \n\nInitially, a metal tube frame was constructed, followed by metal sheet coverage. \n\nThe base was reinforced for stability, accommodating individuals operating the machines. \n\nThe roof height is adjustable between 7 feet and 4.5 feet (213.4 cm and 137.2 cm). It is constructed with panels. \n\nRoofing utilizes metal tubes and fiber sheets to maintain a light system. \n\nA wooden base serves as flooring, and all components were carefully painted.\n\nWhile installing the machines, we focused on the following:\n\n1. Distributing the machine's weight evenly on each vehicle \n\n2. Securing the machine to the base to ensure stability during transport and use\n\nThe shredder, being heavier, was placed individually in one vehicle for balanced weight distribution. In another vehicle, we positioned the extrusion and injection machines with sufficient space for safe and efficient operation.\n\nWe installed a small panel on the vehicle to connect to either solar or main power sources as needed. The machines are linked to this panel, which includes the main switch.\n\nAfter installation, we performed a test run to assess the machine's functionality and ensure the setup's stability, adding support structures around the vehicle.\n\nThe process is straightforward once the space requirements are clear.\n\nWe made several mistakes during our process but are willing to offer assistance to others attempting the same.", - "keywords": "mobile recycling unit, plastic recycling, electric vehicle recycling, solar-powered recycling, machine installation, weight distribution, shredder machine, extrusion unit, injection machine, eco-friendly vehicle", - "resources": "### Hardware\n\n- Electric vehicle with foldable roof and reinforced chassis[1][2]\n- Metal tube frame with sheet coverage[1][5]\n- Wooden base flooring[1][7]\n- Plastic shredder unit[1][6]\n- Extrusion and injection molding machines[1][6]\n\n### Tools\n\n- Metal tube welding and cutting equipment[1][5]\n- Metal sheet forming tools[1][5]\n- Reinforced base construction tools (wood/metal)[1][7]\n- Adjustable roof installation tools (panels, fiber sheets)[1][8]\n- Support structure assembly tools for stability tests[1][10]\n\n### Software\n\n*(No specialized software mentioned in the implementation)*\n\n### Electrical Components\n\n- Dual-power connection panel (solar/main grid)[1][9]\n- Energy distribution system with main switch[1][9]\n- Electric vehicle charging infrastructure[1][2]\n- Machine power wiring and connectors[1][9]\n\n### Safety & Stability\n\n- Weight-balanced vehicle mounting[1][4][6]\n- Machine anchoring mechanisms[1][10]\n- Reinforced chassis for vibration absorption[1][3]\n- Weather-resistant roof panels[1][8]\n- Post-installation stability testing protocols[1][10]", - "references": "### Articles\n\n- [Trashpresso, a Mobile Recycling Plant that Transforms Plastic Waste](https://www.imnovation-hub.com/construction/trashpresso-mobile-recycling-plant-transform-plastic-waste/)\n- ~~[Advanced Recycling Technologies - America's Plastic Makers](https://plasticmakers.org/our-solutions/advanced-recycling-technologies/)~~\n\n### Papers\n\n- [Interactions Between Fixed and Mobile Recycling Facilities (PDF)](https://www.efdinitiative.org/sites/default/files/2024-05/MS-1684.pdf)\n- [Advancing Plastic Recycling: Challenges and Opportunities in the Circular Economy](https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC10575100/)\n\n### Books\n\n- [Complete Technology Book of Plastic Processing and Recycling of Plastics](https://www.abebooks.com/9789380772578/complete-technology-book-plastic-processing-9380772572/plp)\n\n### YouTube\n\n- [The Invention Turning Waste to Resource | ABC Australia](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yjSxoikFCSU)\n\n### Opensource Designs\n\n- [[filtered] by Dave Hakkens: Open-Source Recycling Workshop](https://www.designboom.com/technology/precious-plastic-dave-hakkens-recycling-workshop-06-02-2014/)", - "brief": "Mobile unit for recycling plastic at source, using an electric vehicle to reduce emissions. Features include onboard machines, solar power, and weather protection." + "content": "In this Project, we made a Moblie Plastic Recycling Unit through which we can recycle plastic at multiple locations and initiate the recycling process at the source, and also provide training along the process. \n\nThis setup is placed on an electric vehicle which further adds to reducing carbon emissions and also tried operating the system on a solar panel.\n\n\n\n\nUser Location: Dadri, India\n\nFew key aspects to consider while planning\n\n1. Selecting the right vehicle for the project that can fit all your machines and can handle their weight. \n\n2. Considering a stable platform during the operations \n\n3. Strong and stable chassis to bear the weight and can abrobe the vibration in terms of shredder \n\n\n\nWe selected an electrical Vehicle as it will reduce the carbon footprint and can also be customized according to our requirements. \n\n\nWe tried designing in a way where we can increase the working area and can also add a foldable roof that will further help during the bad weather.\n\n\nWe have a working area of 8 x 7 feet and we tried to install 2 machines in it. We had 2 vehicles so we managed to put shredder, injection and Extrusion. \n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWe started with the outer body of the unit as we have few constrians like weight, size and durability. \n\n\nFirst we made a frame with metal tubes and then started covering it with metal sheets. \n\nWe tried to keep the base more stable and stong as people will be standing on it while working on the machines. \n\nRoof height is adjutable up to 7 feet and could be lower to 4.5 feet. Roof side is made with pannels \n\nRoofing is done with metal tube and fiber sheets as we have weight limitations with the whole system. \n\nWe added a wooden base as a flooring and painted everything nicely.\n\n\n\n\n\nWhile installing the machines we worked on few things like\n\n1. Proper weight distribution of the machine on each vehicle\n\n2. Bolting the machine with the base so that it will stick to the base during travel and operations. \n\n\nShredder was the heavier, so it we placed a single shredder on one vehicle due to overall weight distribution. \n\nOn another vehicle we placed Extrusion and Injection machine keeping some space in between to work safely and easily on the setup. \n\n\nWe made a small panel on the vehicle which could be connected with both solar and main power grid as per requirement. Machines are connected with that panel and also consist of the main switch. \n\nAfter installation we did a test run to check the working of the machine. Tested the stability of the overall setup and also added some supporting structures around the vehicle. \n\n\nOverall process is quite easy once you figure out the type of space you are planning for. \n\nWe did several mistakes during the process but willing to help if anyone is trying for same. " } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/modular-interconnecting-formwork/README.md b/howtos/modular-interconnecting-formwork/README.md index 0a544f440..33be46050 100644 --- a/howtos/modular-interconnecting-formwork/README.md +++ b/howtos/modular-interconnecting-formwork/README.md @@ -1,31 +1,29 @@ --- title: Modular Interconnecting Formwork slug: modular-interconnecting-formwork -description: ### Tutorial on Using Plastic Bricks for Concrete Formwork - -This guide outlines the general process of using plastic bricks to construct a concrete formwork. Formwork acts as a mold for poured materials, and in this method, the bricks serve as a detachable and reusable tool for creating these forms. +description: This tutorial will explain, in general terms, how to use recycled plastic bricks to build a formwork for construction with concrete. Formwork functions as a mould for poured mediums in the construction, and in this case, the bricks function as a removable and reusable tool for building that form. tags: ["compression","HDPE","hack","product"] category: Moulds difficulty: Very Hard time: < 1 week -keywords: plastic bricks, concrete formwork, construction guide, concrete pouring, reusable formwork, formwork assembly, concrete molding, construction materials, safety gear construction, DIY concrete formwork +keywords: location: Melbourne, Australia --- # Modular Interconnecting Formwork ![Modular Interconnecting Formwork](20220817-untitled_shoot-0015-1875f9f88c2.jpg) -### Tutorial on Using Plastic Bricks for Concrete Formwork - -This guide outlines the general process of using plastic bricks to construct a concrete formwork. Formwork acts as a mold for poured materials, and in this method, the bricks serve as a detachable and reusable tool for creating these forms. +This tutorial will explain, in general terms, how to use recycled plastic bricks to build a formwork for construction with concrete. Formwork functions as a mould for poured mediums in the construction, and in this case, the bricks function as a removable and reusable tool for building that form. User Location: Melbourne, Australia ## Steps ### Step 1: Understanding formwork as a mould for construction -Formwork is used to create frames for pouring concrete, rammed earth, or other materials in construction. Traditionally made from wood, they can also be crafted from plastic. +Formwork is used to create frames to pour concrete,rammed earth or other mediums in the construction industry. These are traditionally made out of wood but we can also make them from recycled plastic 🙂 -We advise beginning with small projects to understand the process, iterating and expanding your ideas. Costs may vary considerably based on your project. -Current brick designs, paired with thin sheets produced by a sheet press, enable formworking. Detailed drawings for an optimized brick mold can be found via the provided link, with machining instructions to follow. +We suggest to start small, learn how it works, iterate and expand your ideas. Costs can vary greatly depending on your build. + +The existing [filtered] brick designs, combined with thin sheets made on the sheetpress will allow you to start formworking. However drawings of a mould for a brick that's optimised for formworking are available at the Thingiverse link, and a How To describing how to machine this will be coming shortly. + ![arnold-render-006a2-1875a1944e5.jpg](./arnold-render-006a2-1875a1944e5.jpg) @@ -35,56 +33,52 @@ Current brick designs, paired with thin sheets produced by a sheet press, enable ### Step 2: Tools, skills & materials required -### Equipment and Skills Needed +Hearing & eye protection +Safety boots +Dust mask +Skills in the operation of powertools, in particular drills +A safety induction into construction in your jurisdiction +Experience in mixing and pouring concrete +Enough bricks to build your desired formwork +Cement, sand & aggregate +Building design drawings +Impact driver & drill +Masonry drill bits & optional masonry drill +Self tapping timber screws +Reinforcing bar (rebar)* +Rebar ties & rebar tie tool +Starter bars, safety caps +Anchoring adhesive & applicating gun +Concrete mixer & plastic tubs +Concrete shovels +Steel brackets** +Concrete vibrator +Trowel +Hot glue gun & hot glue sticks +Stringline, chalk and/or construction spraypaint +Tape measure +Wire brush -- Hearing and eye protection -- Safety boots -- Dust mask -- Power tool operation skills, particularly with drills -- Safety induction in construction for your area -- Experience in mixing and pouring concrete - -### Materials Required - -- Bricks for formwork -- Cement, sand, and aggregate -- Building design drawings -- Impact driver and drill -- Masonry drill bits (optional masonry drill) -- Self-tapping timber screws -- Reinforcing bar (rebar)* -- Rebar ties and tie tool -- Starter bars with safety caps -- Anchoring adhesive and application gun -- Concrete mixer and plastic tubs -- Shovels for concrete -- Steel brackets** -- Concrete vibrator -- Trowel -- Hot glue gun and glue sticks -- Stringline, chalk, or construction spray paint -- Tape measure -- Wire brush - -\* To cut rebar, a reciprocating saw or grinder is recommended. - -\** Secure steel brackets using timber screws, formwork stakes, or powder-actuated fasteners. +* You may need a tool to cut rebar to size. We used a reciprocating saw, but a grinder will also work. +** You will need a way to secure your steel brackets to the ground around your formwork. We used a combination of timber screws, formwork stakes & powder actuated fasteners. ![IMG_20230318_185834-1875a1e5072.jpg](./IMG_20230318_185834-1875a1e5072.jpg) ### Step 3: Mark out your wall -To mark where your wall will be built, use chalk, stringline, or spray paint and a diagram of your structure. We used green paint for marking. +Using chalk, stringline, and/or spray paint and a drawing of the relevant parts of your structure, mark out where the wall you intend to build will be erected. + +We marked out our walls with green paint. ![IMG_20230317_145630-1875a1eed31.jpg](./IMG_20230317_145630-1875a1eed31.jpg) ### Step 4: Install starter bars & rebar -Drill holes in the slab to the depth specified by your anchoring adhesive. Clear the holes of concrete dust. Inject the adhesive, then install starter bars, following adhesive instructions carefully. Wait up to 24 hours for the adhesive to set, and cover unattended starter bars with safety caps. +Drill holes in the slab to the thickness specified by your anchoring adhesive. Clear the holes of concrete dust. Inject the anchoring adhesive into the holes, and then install your starter bars. Be careful to follow the instructions of your adhesive. You may need to wait up to 24 hours for the adhesive to set. Take care to cover the starter bars with safety caps when they are unattended. -If necessary, install additional rebar using rebar ties and a rebar tie tool. +Where required, install additional rebar for your wall using rebar ties and a rebar tie tool. ![IMG_20230317_075013-1875a2055ab.jpg](./IMG_20230317_075013-1875a2055ab.jpg) @@ -94,7 +88,7 @@ If necessary, install additional rebar using rebar ties and a rebar tie tool. ### Step 5: Erect initial form -Following the outline marked in step #5, lay bricks in rows. For large seams between bricks, fill with hot glue while assembling the formwork. Use a trowel and a pipe to clean the glue in the seams. Alternatively, cover the bricks with a thin sheet, which can be taped to the bricks. It does not need to be strongly secured, as the concrete will press it against the bricks when poured. +Following the outside of the wall that was marked out in step #5, lay bricks in rows. If you have large seams between your bricks you may want to fill those with hot glue while you erect the formwork. A trowel and a piece of pipe will allow you to clean up your hot glue as you add it to the seams. Alternatively, you can use a thin sheet, potentially produced on a sheetpress, to cover the bricks. This can be taped to the bricks. It does not need to be secured particularly strongly, as the concrete will press it against the bricks tightly when poured. ![IMG_20230317_075030-1875a2279ec.jpg](./IMG_20230317_075030-1875a2279ec.jpg) @@ -104,11 +98,11 @@ Following the outline marked in step #5, lay bricks in rows. For large seams bet ### Step 6: Secure and brace form -Installation methods will vary based on your site, but consider small steel brackets for securing formwork. Attach brackets to either timber or concrete slabs. This setup prevents formwork from lifting and stabilizes bricks against outward pressure from poured concrete. +How you achieve this step will be dependent on your building site, and preferences, but our suggestion is to use small steel brackets, where you can screw them to timber, or nail them to a concrete slab. These brackets will serve the dual purpose of preventing the formwork from lifting from the ground, and preventing individual bricks from blowing outwards due to the static load of the poured concrete. -Ensure each ground-level brick is supported from behind on the concrete-facing side. Secure at least every third brick to the ground to prevent uplift. Bricks in the top row should be linked to neighboring bricks, as these rows lack the interlocking support provided by other positions. +Every brick at ground level must be supported from directly behind its main, concrete facing surface. And at least every third brick must be bolted to the ground to prevent the formwork rising. Every brick on the top row of your formwork should also be secured in some way to it’s neighbour. Both the top and the bottom row of your formwork are not supported by the teeth of other bricks, meaning that they will blow out if not secured via alternative means. -Alternatives to steel brackets include using simple chocks placed against the concrete-facing surface. +Alternatives to steel brackets could include using simple chocks placed against the back of the main concrete facing surface. These c ![IMG_20230318_121126-1875a24187a.jpg](./IMG_20230318_121126-1875a24187a.jpg) @@ -118,22 +112,26 @@ Alternatives to steel brackets include using simple chocks placed against the co ### Step 7: Prepare to pour -Before pouring concrete, inspect your formwork for potential issues. Improperly secured bricks, large seams, and misalignment can lead to failure. Concrete blowouts are dangerous and difficult to stop due to the mass of the material. +Before pouring concrete, it is crucial to inspect your formwork thoroughly for potential issues that could arise. Improperly secured bricks, large seams and a misaligned formwork will all result in a failure to build the wall that you intend. Concrete blowouts can be dangerous, and are nearly impossible to stop once they start due to the mass of the material involved. + +Once you are certain your formwork is secured, from top to bottom, arrange your concrete mixer, and concrete ingredients in a way that will allow you to easily pour the material into the form. + +Ensure you have enough time in the day to complete the pour before starting. -Once your formwork is secure, arrange your concrete mixer and ingredients for easy pouring. Ensure you have sufficient time to complete the pour before beginning. ![IMG_20230318_140942-1875a257de0.jpg](./IMG_20230318_140942-1875a257de0.jpg) ### Step 8: Begin pouring -To begin, mix enough concrete to construct around 0.8-1.6 inches (20-40mm) of your wall. Place it into the formwork, ensuring it reaches the corners. Check the outer side of the formwork for any concrete leakage at the bottom. Mix and pour slowly, monitoring the base of your form until you reach approximately 6 inches (150mm) above ground level. At this stage, you have overcome the initial major challenge. Allow the poured concrete to set for 90 minutes to support the weight of additional pours, minimizing the risk of a blowout. +To start with, mix enough concrete to build around 20-40mm of your wall. Shovel it into the formwork, and vibrate it into the corners. As you go, inspect the outer side of your formwork for concrete attempting to come out the bottom. Mix and pour slowly, while inspecting the bottom of your form as you go until you get to around 150mm above ground level. At this point you have cleared the first major hurdle. Let the concrete that you have already poured set for 90 minutes, as this will allow it to support the weight of subsequent pours, without as much risk of a blowout. ### Step 9: Complete your pour -Once the initial concrete pour begins to harden, increase the frequency of subsequent pours. Continuously inspect the formwork as the height increases. In our instance, we poured approximately 60 liters (15.85 gallons) of concrete every 30 minutes after the initial section, ensuring air pockets were vibrated out. Using rapid-set cement could allow for a faster pace, but this is not recommended for beginners as it might set before proper vibration or complicate repairs in the event of a mishap. +Once the first run of concrete is hardening, you can increase the cadence of your pours. Ensure that you continue to inspect the formwork as you go higher. In our case we poured approximately 60L of concrete every half an hour after the first part of our wall, remembering to vibrate the air pockets out as we went. A faster cadence could be possible when using rapid set cement, however this would not be advisable on your first try as it may set either before you’ve vibrated it thoroughly, or in the case you have a blow out, it will be substantially harder to rectify the site. + +Once you reach the top of your formwork, use a trowel to make a nice surface at the top. Edging tools will allow you to create nice bevels on the corners of your wall. -Upon reaching the top of the formwork, use a trowel to smooth the surface. Edging tools can be used to create bevels on the wall's corners. ![IMG_20230318_163607-1875a26fcb8.jpg](./IMG_20230318_163607-1875a26fcb8.jpg) @@ -146,9 +144,10 @@ Upon reaching the top of the formwork, use a trowel to smooth the surface. Edgin ### Step 10: Demould! -Once the concrete becomes a lighter grey, it is nearing readiness for formwork removal. We waited 36 hours to ensure it was sufficiently set, but consult the cement manufacturer's specifications and consider ambient temperature, as this affects setting speed. When uncertain, allow more time before proceeding. +Once the concrete starts to turn to a lighter grey, it is getting close to hard enough to remove your formwork. We waited for 36 hours so as to be sure it was set well enough to remain standing, but you may want to refer to the manufacturer’s specifications for the cement that you use, as well as details like the ambient temperature, which will affect the speed with which it sets. If in doubt, wait longer before starting this step. + +To demould, we started by undoing any fasteners we had at the top layer, and removing the bracing. Bricks were easily removed by rocking them back and forth, to lift them off the teeth underneath. Hot glue where used will break off easily. -To demold, begin by undoing fasteners on the top layer and remove the bracing. Bricks can be removed by gently rocking them to lift them off the underlying teeth. Hot glue, if used, will break off easily. ![IMG_20230320_063854-1875a281af2.jpg](./IMG_20230320_063854-1875a281af2.jpg) @@ -161,13 +160,13 @@ To demold, begin by undoing fasteners on the top layer and remove the bracing. B ### Step 11: Cleanup -In some cases, seams may not be adequately filled with hot glue, allowing concrete to seep in. To prevent this, clean the bricks immediately after demoulding, as the concrete will still be weak and crumbly. Wear safety glasses and use a wire brush for cleaning. +In our case, some of the seams were not well filled with hot glue, so concrete got into them. This can be avoided, but in case it’s an issue for you too, it’s a good idea to clean your bricks right after you’ve finished demoulding, as the concrete will still be weak and crumbly. Wear safety glasses and rub those bricks with a wire brush. -If you've made holes in your bricks, fill them with a hot glue gun using the same plastic you used for the bricks. It's advisable to do this on-site to avoid forgetting to check for cavities later. +If you had to screw into your bricks, holes can be filled with a hot glue gun, and sticks of the plastic you used to make your bricks. It’s not a bad idea to do this while you’re still on site, as next time when you use the bricks you might forget to inspect for cavities. + +In general, it’s a good idea to maintain a neat construction site, as any subsequent work carried out there can be affected by hazards you leave behind. So clean up your tools and materials once you’re done! -Maintain a tidy construction site, as leftover hazards can affect future work. Clean your tools and materials after finishing. - -Additionally, remember any important tasks relevant to your situation. +Also, if relevant, remember to feed the horse. And to avoid the tiger snake. ![IMG_20230319_174022-1875a2a4b3e.jpg](./IMG_20230319_174022-1875a2a4b3e.jpg) @@ -179,41 +178,4 @@ Additionally, remember any important tasks relevant to your situation. ![IMG_20230320_082928-1875a2a6780.jpg](./IMG_20230320_082928-1875a2a6780.jpg) ## Resources -### Tools - -- Impact driver and drill -- Concrete mixer -- Hot glue gun -- Concrete vibrator -- Trowel - -### Hardware - -- Plastic bricks ([design details](https://example.com)) -- Steel brackets -- Reinforcing bar (rebar) -- Self-tapping timber screws -- Anchoring adhesive and application gun - -*Safety equipment (eye/hearing protection, boots, dust mask) and additional tools like shovels or tape measures are also required but omitted here for brevity.* -## References -## Articles - -- [[filtered]: building brick from plastic waste - DesignWanted](https://designwanted.com/precious-plastic-brick/) - -## Books - -- [Reuse of Plastic Waste in Eco-efficient Concrete - Barnes & Noble](https://www.barnesandnoble.com/w/reuse-of-plastic-waste-in-eco-efficient-concrete-fernando-pacheco-torgal/1144310258) - -## Papers - -- [A Review of Plastic Bricks as a Construction Material - IJTSRD (PDF)](https://www.ijtsrd.com/papers/ijtsrd67061.pdf) -- [Comparing the Properties of PET Plastic Bricks to Concrete (PDF)](https://par.nsf.gov/servlets/purl/10215520) - -## YouTube - -- [Forming Concrete with Plastic Forms - YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MK7qBFYau6U) - -## Opensource Designs - -- Modular Interconnecting Formwork - [filtered] \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/modular-interconnecting-formwork/config.json b/howtos/modular-interconnecting-formwork/config.json index eb6623185..285ac0b37 100644 --- a/howtos/modular-interconnecting-formwork/config.json +++ b/howtos/modular-interconnecting-formwork/config.json @@ -1,10 +1,10 @@ { - "description": "### Tutorial on Using Plastic Bricks for Concrete Formwork\n\nThis guide outlines the general process of using plastic bricks to construct a concrete formwork. Formwork acts as a mold for poured materials, and in this method, the bricks serve as a detachable and reusable tool for creating these forms.", + "description": "This tutorial will explain, in general terms, how to use recycled plastic bricks to build a formwork for construction with concrete. Formwork functions as a mould for poured mediums in the construction, and in this case, the bricks function as a removable and reusable tool for building that form.", "_createdBy": "mortar-art", "steps": [ { "title": "Understanding formwork as a mould for construction", - "text": "Formwork is used to create frames for pouring concrete, rammed earth, or other materials in construction. Traditionally made from wood, they can also be crafted from plastic.\n\nWe advise beginning with small projects to understand the process, iterating and expanding your ideas. Costs may vary considerably based on your project.\n\nCurrent brick designs, paired with thin sheets produced by a sheet press, enable formworking. Detailed drawings for an optimized brick mold can be found via the provided link, with machining instructions to follow.", + "text": "Formwork is used to create frames to pour concrete,rammed earth or other mediums in the construction industry. These are traditionally made out of wood but we can also make them from recycled plastic 🙂\n\n\nWe suggest to start small, learn how it works, iterate and expand your ideas. Costs can vary greatly depending on your build.\n\nThe existing [filtered] brick designs, combined with thin sheets made on the sheetpress will allow you to start formworking. However drawings of a mould for a brick that's optimised for formworking are available at the Thingiverse link, and a How To describing how to machine this will be coming shortly.\n", "images": [ { "downloadUrl": "https://firebasestorage.googleapis.com/v0/b/onearmyworld.appspot.com/o/uploads%2Fhowtos%2F2ao4BEt1U6tvLhvWrPfT%2Farnold-render-006a2-1875a1944e5.jpg?alt=media&token=2b6537e1-54ee-43f3-891d-ea9a149fe113", @@ -49,7 +49,7 @@ } ], "title": "Tools, skills & materials required", - "text": "### Equipment and Skills Needed\n\n- Hearing and eye protection\n- Safety boots\n- Dust mask\n- Power tool operation skills, particularly with drills\n- Safety induction in construction for your area\n- Experience in mixing and pouring concrete\n\n### Materials Required\n\n- Bricks for formwork\n- Cement, sand, and aggregate\n- Building design drawings \n- Impact driver and drill\n- Masonry drill bits (optional masonry drill)\n- Self-tapping timber screws\n- Reinforcing bar (rebar)*\n- Rebar ties and tie tool\n- Starter bars with safety caps\n- Anchoring adhesive and application gun\n- Concrete mixer and plastic tubs\n- Shovels for concrete\n- Steel brackets**\n- Concrete vibrator\n- Trowel\n- Hot glue gun and glue sticks\n- Stringline, chalk, or construction spray paint\n- Tape measure\n- Wire brush\n\n\\* To cut rebar, a reciprocating saw or grinder is recommended.\n\n\\** Secure steel brackets using timber screws, formwork stakes, or powder-actuated fasteners.", + "text": "Hearing & eye protection\nSafety boots\nDust mask\nSkills in the operation of powertools, in particular drills\nA safety induction into construction in your jurisdiction\nExperience in mixing and pouring concrete\nEnough bricks to build your desired formwork\nCement, sand & aggregate\nBuilding design drawings\nImpact driver & drill\nMasonry drill bits & optional masonry drill\nSelf tapping timber screws\nReinforcing bar (rebar)*\nRebar ties & rebar tie tool\nStarter bars, safety caps\nAnchoring adhesive & applicating gun\nConcrete mixer & plastic tubs\nConcrete shovels\nSteel brackets**\nConcrete vibrator\nTrowel\nHot glue gun & hot glue sticks\nStringline, chalk and/or construction spraypaint\nTape measure\nWire brush\n\n* You may need a tool to cut rebar to size. We used a reciprocating saw, but a grinder will also work.\n** You will need a way to secure your steel brackets to the ground around your formwork. We used a combination of timber screws, formwork stakes & powder actuated fasteners.", "_animationKey": "unique2" }, { @@ -67,7 +67,7 @@ "alt": "IMG_20230317_145630-1875a1eed31.jpg" } ], - "text": "To mark where your wall will be built, use chalk, stringline, or spray paint and a diagram of your structure. We used green paint for marking.", + "text": "Using chalk, stringline, and/or spray paint and a drawing of the relevant parts of your structure, mark out where the wall you intend to build will be erected.\n\nWe marked out our walls with green paint.", "title": "Mark out your wall", "_animationKey": "unique3" }, @@ -99,7 +99,7 @@ "alt": "IMG_20230317_095358-1875a2068d5.jpg" } ], - "text": "Drill holes in the slab to the depth specified by your anchoring adhesive. Clear the holes of concrete dust. Inject the adhesive, then install starter bars, following adhesive instructions carefully. Wait up to 24 hours for the adhesive to set, and cover unattended starter bars with safety caps.\n\nIf necessary, install additional rebar using rebar ties and a rebar tie tool.", + "text": "Drill holes in the slab to the thickness specified by your anchoring adhesive. Clear the holes of concrete dust. Inject the anchoring adhesive into the holes, and then install your starter bars. Be careful to follow the instructions of your adhesive. You may need to wait up to 24 hours for the adhesive to set. Take care to cover the starter bars with safety caps when they are unattended.\n\nWhere required, install additional rebar for your wall using rebar ties and a rebar tie tool.", "title": "Install starter bars & rebar" }, { @@ -131,11 +131,11 @@ } ], "title": "Erect initial form", - "text": "Following the outline marked in step #5, lay bricks in rows. For large seams between bricks, fill with hot glue while assembling the formwork. Use a trowel and a pipe to clean the glue in the seams. Alternatively, cover the bricks with a thin sheet, which can be taped to the bricks. It does not need to be strongly secured, as the concrete will press it against the bricks when poured." + "text": "Following the outside of the wall that was marked out in step #5, lay bricks in rows. If you have large seams between your bricks you may want to fill those with hot glue while you erect the formwork. A trowel and a piece of pipe will allow you to clean up your hot glue as you add it to the seams. Alternatively, you can use a thin sheet, potentially produced on a sheetpress, to cover the bricks. This can be taped to the bricks. It does not need to be secured particularly strongly, as the concrete will press it against the bricks tightly when poured." }, { "title": "Secure and brace form", - "text": "Installation methods will vary based on your site, but consider small steel brackets for securing formwork. Attach brackets to either timber or concrete slabs. This setup prevents formwork from lifting and stabilizes bricks against outward pressure from poured concrete.\n\nEnsure each ground-level brick is supported from behind on the concrete-facing side. Secure at least every third brick to the ground to prevent uplift. Bricks in the top row should be linked to neighboring bricks, as these rows lack the interlocking support provided by other positions.\n\nAlternatives to steel brackets include using simple chocks placed against the concrete-facing surface.", + "text": "How you achieve this step will be dependent on your building site, and preferences, but our suggestion is to use small steel brackets, where you can screw them to timber, or nail them to a concrete slab. These brackets will serve the dual purpose of preventing the formwork from lifting from the ground, and preventing individual bricks from blowing outwards due to the static load of the poured concrete.\n\nEvery brick at ground level must be supported from directly behind its main, concrete facing surface. And at least every third brick must be bolted to the ground to prevent the formwork rising. Every brick on the top row of your formwork should also be secured in some way to it’s neighbour. Both the top and the bottom row of your formwork are not supported by the teeth of other bricks, meaning that they will blow out if not secured via alternative means.\n\nAlternatives to steel brackets could include using simple chocks placed against the back of the main concrete facing surface. These c", "images": [ { "fullPath": "uploads/howtos/2ao4BEt1U6tvLhvWrPfT/IMG_20230318_121126-1875a24187a.jpg", @@ -166,7 +166,7 @@ }, { "_animationKey": "uniquec85b3u", - "text": "Before pouring concrete, inspect your formwork for potential issues. Improperly secured bricks, large seams, and misalignment can lead to failure. Concrete blowouts are dangerous and difficult to stop due to the mass of the material.\n\nOnce your formwork is secure, arrange your concrete mixer and ingredients for easy pouring. Ensure you have sufficient time to complete the pour before beginning.", + "text": "Before pouring concrete, it is crucial to inspect your formwork thoroughly for potential issues that could arise. Improperly secured bricks, large seams and a misaligned formwork will all result in a failure to build the wall that you intend. Concrete blowouts can be dangerous, and are nearly impossible to stop once they start due to the mass of the material involved.\n\nOnce you are certain your formwork is secured, from top to bottom, arrange your concrete mixer, and concrete ingredients in a way that will allow you to easily pour the material into the form.\n\nEnsure you have enough time in the day to complete the pour before starting.\n", "title": "Prepare to pour", "images": [ { @@ -186,7 +186,7 @@ { "title": "Begin pouring", "_animationKey": "unique8ijsra", - "text": "To begin, mix enough concrete to construct around 0.8-1.6 inches (20-40mm) of your wall. Place it into the formwork, ensuring it reaches the corners. Check the outer side of the formwork for any concrete leakage at the bottom. Mix and pour slowly, monitoring the base of your form until you reach approximately 6 inches (150mm) above ground level. At this stage, you have overcome the initial major challenge. Allow the poured concrete to set for 90 minutes to support the weight of additional pours, minimizing the risk of a blowout.", + "text": "To start with, mix enough concrete to build around 20-40mm of your wall. Shovel it into the formwork, and vibrate it into the corners. As you go, inspect the outer side of your formwork for concrete attempting to come out the bottom. Mix and pour slowly, while inspecting the bottom of your form as you go until you get to around 150mm above ground level. At this point you have cleared the first major hurdle. Let the concrete that you have already poured set for 90 minutes, as this will allow it to support the weight of subsequent pours, without as much risk of a blowout.", "videoUrl": "https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mo0ZTgck9ic", "images": [] }, @@ -230,11 +230,11 @@ } ], "_animationKey": "uniquecuzk4", - "text": "Once the initial concrete pour begins to harden, increase the frequency of subsequent pours. Continuously inspect the formwork as the height increases. In our instance, we poured approximately 60 liters (15.85 gallons) of concrete every 30 minutes after the initial section, ensuring air pockets were vibrated out. Using rapid-set cement could allow for a faster pace, but this is not recommended for beginners as it might set before proper vibration or complicate repairs in the event of a mishap.\n\nUpon reaching the top of the formwork, use a trowel to smooth the surface. Edging tools can be used to create bevels on the wall's corners.", + "text": "Once the first run of concrete is hardening, you can increase the cadence of your pours. Ensure that you continue to inspect the formwork as you go higher. In our case we poured approximately 60L of concrete every half an hour after the first part of our wall, remembering to vibrate the air pockets out as we went. A faster cadence could be possible when using rapid set cement, however this would not be advisable on your first try as it may set either before you’ve vibrated it thoroughly, or in the case you have a blow out, it will be substantially harder to rectify the site.\n\nOnce you reach the top of your formwork, use a trowel to make a nice surface at the top. Edging tools will allow you to create nice bevels on the corners of your wall.\n", "title": "Complete your pour" }, { - "text": "Once the concrete becomes a lighter grey, it is nearing readiness for formwork removal. We waited 36 hours to ensure it was sufficiently set, but consult the cement manufacturer's specifications and consider ambient temperature, as this affects setting speed. When uncertain, allow more time before proceeding.\n\nTo demold, begin by undoing fasteners on the top layer and remove the bracing. Bricks can be removed by gently rocking them to lift them off the underlying teeth. Hot glue, if used, will break off easily.", + "text": "Once the concrete starts to turn to a lighter grey, it is getting close to hard enough to remove your formwork. We waited for 36 hours so as to be sure it was set well enough to remain standing, but you may want to refer to the manufacturer’s specifications for the cement that you use, as well as details like the ambient temperature, which will affect the speed with which it sets. If in doubt, wait longer before starting this step.\n\nTo demould, we started by undoing any fasteners we had at the top layer, and removing the bracing. Bricks were easily removed by rocking them back and forth, to lift them off the teeth underneath. Hot glue where used will break off easily.\n", "_animationKey": "uniquee7r6z", "images": [ { @@ -317,7 +317,7 @@ } ], "_animationKey": "uniquefj9pnq", - "text": "In some cases, seams may not be adequately filled with hot glue, allowing concrete to seep in. To prevent this, clean the bricks immediately after demoulding, as the concrete will still be weak and crumbly. Wear safety glasses and use a wire brush for cleaning.\n\nIf you've made holes in your bricks, fill them with a hot glue gun using the same plastic you used for the bricks. It's advisable to do this on-site to avoid forgetting to check for cavities later.\n\nMaintain a tidy construction site, as leftover hazards can affect future work. Clean your tools and materials after finishing.\n\nAdditionally, remember any important tasks relevant to your situation." + "text": "In our case, some of the seams were not well filled with hot glue, so concrete got into them. This can be avoided, but in case it’s an issue for you too, it’s a good idea to clean your bricks right after you’ve finished demoulding, as the concrete will still be weak and crumbly. Wear safety glasses and rub those bricks with a wire brush.\n\nIf you had to screw into your bricks, holes can be filled with a hot glue gun, and sticks of the plastic you used to make your bricks. It’s not a bad idea to do this while you’re still on site, as next time when you use the bricks you might forget to inspect for cavities.\n \nIn general, it’s a good idea to maintain a neat construction site, as any subsequent work carried out there can be affected by hazards you leave behind. So clean up your tools and materials once you’re done!\n\nAlso, if relevant, remember to feed the horse. And to avoid the tiger snake." } ], "title": "Modular Interconnecting Formwork", @@ -521,9 +521,5 @@ "urls": [] } }, - "content": "### Tutorial on Using Plastic Bricks for Concrete Formwork\n\nThis guide outlines the general process of using plastic bricks to construct a concrete formwork. Formwork acts as a mold for poured materials, and in this method, the bricks serve as a detachable and reusable tool for creating these forms.\n\n\nUser Location: Melbourne, Australia\n\nFormwork is used to create frames for pouring concrete, rammed earth, or other materials in construction. Traditionally made from wood, they can also be crafted from plastic.\n\nWe advise beginning with small projects to understand the process, iterating and expanding your ideas. Costs may vary considerably based on your project.\n\nCurrent brick designs, paired with thin sheets produced by a sheet press, enable formworking. Detailed drawings for an optimized brick mold can be found via the provided link, with machining instructions to follow.\n\n### Equipment and Skills Needed\n\n- Hearing and eye protection\n- Safety boots\n- Dust mask\n- Power tool operation skills, particularly with drills\n- Safety induction in construction for your area\n- Experience in mixing and pouring concrete\n\n### Materials Required\n\n- Bricks for formwork\n- Cement, sand, and aggregate\n- Building design drawings \n- Impact driver and drill\n- Masonry drill bits (optional masonry drill)\n- Self-tapping timber screws\n- Reinforcing bar (rebar)*\n- Rebar ties and tie tool\n- Starter bars with safety caps\n- Anchoring adhesive and application gun\n- Concrete mixer and plastic tubs\n- Shovels for concrete\n- Steel brackets**\n- Concrete vibrator\n- Trowel\n- Hot glue gun and glue sticks\n- Stringline, chalk, or construction spray paint\n- Tape measure\n- Wire brush\n\n\\* To cut rebar, a reciprocating saw or grinder is recommended.\n\n\\** Secure steel brackets using timber screws, formwork stakes, or powder-actuated fasteners.\n\nTo mark where your wall will be built, use chalk, stringline, or spray paint and a diagram of your structure. We used green paint for marking.\n\nDrill holes in the slab to the depth specified by your anchoring adhesive. Clear the holes of concrete dust. Inject the adhesive, then install starter bars, following adhesive instructions carefully. Wait up to 24 hours for the adhesive to set, and cover unattended starter bars with safety caps.\n\nIf necessary, install additional rebar using rebar ties and a rebar tie tool.\n\nFollowing the outline marked in step #5, lay bricks in rows. For large seams between bricks, fill with hot glue while assembling the formwork. Use a trowel and a pipe to clean the glue in the seams. Alternatively, cover the bricks with a thin sheet, which can be taped to the bricks. It does not need to be strongly secured, as the concrete will press it against the bricks when poured.\n\nInstallation methods will vary based on your site, but consider small steel brackets for securing formwork. Attach brackets to either timber or concrete slabs. This setup prevents formwork from lifting and stabilizes bricks against outward pressure from poured concrete.\n\nEnsure each ground-level brick is supported from behind on the concrete-facing side. Secure at least every third brick to the ground to prevent uplift. Bricks in the top row should be linked to neighboring bricks, as these rows lack the interlocking support provided by other positions.\n\nAlternatives to steel brackets include using simple chocks placed against the concrete-facing surface.\n\nBefore pouring concrete, inspect your formwork for potential issues. Improperly secured bricks, large seams, and misalignment can lead to failure. Concrete blowouts are dangerous and difficult to stop due to the mass of the material.\n\nOnce your formwork is secure, arrange your concrete mixer and ingredients for easy pouring. Ensure you have sufficient time to complete the pour before beginning.\n\nTo begin, mix enough concrete to construct around 0.8-1.6 inches (20-40mm) of your wall. Place it into the formwork, ensuring it reaches the corners. Check the outer side of the formwork for any concrete leakage at the bottom. Mix and pour slowly, monitoring the base of your form until you reach approximately 6 inches (150mm) above ground level. At this stage, you have overcome the initial major challenge. Allow the poured concrete to set for 90 minutes to support the weight of additional pours, minimizing the risk of a blowout.\n\nOnce the initial concrete pour begins to harden, increase the frequency of subsequent pours. Continuously inspect the formwork as the height increases. In our instance, we poured approximately 60 liters (15.85 gallons) of concrete every 30 minutes after the initial section, ensuring air pockets were vibrated out. Using rapid-set cement could allow for a faster pace, but this is not recommended for beginners as it might set before proper vibration or complicate repairs in the event of a mishap.\n\nUpon reaching the top of the formwork, use a trowel to smooth the surface. Edging tools can be used to create bevels on the wall's corners.\n\nOnce the concrete becomes a lighter grey, it is nearing readiness for formwork removal. We waited 36 hours to ensure it was sufficiently set, but consult the cement manufacturer's specifications and consider ambient temperature, as this affects setting speed. When uncertain, allow more time before proceeding.\n\nTo demold, begin by undoing fasteners on the top layer and remove the bracing. Bricks can be removed by gently rocking them to lift them off the underlying teeth. Hot glue, if used, will break off easily.\n\nIn some cases, seams may not be adequately filled with hot glue, allowing concrete to seep in. To prevent this, clean the bricks immediately after demoulding, as the concrete will still be weak and crumbly. Wear safety glasses and use a wire brush for cleaning.\n\nIf you've made holes in your bricks, fill them with a hot glue gun using the same plastic you used for the bricks. It's advisable to do this on-site to avoid forgetting to check for cavities later.\n\nMaintain a tidy construction site, as leftover hazards can affect future work. Clean your tools and materials after finishing.\n\nAdditionally, remember any important tasks relevant to your situation.", - "keywords": "plastic bricks, concrete formwork, construction guide, concrete pouring, reusable formwork, formwork assembly, concrete molding, construction materials, safety gear construction, DIY concrete formwork", - "resources": "### Tools\n\n- Impact driver and drill\n- Concrete mixer\n- Hot glue gun\n- Concrete vibrator\n- Trowel\n\n### Hardware\n\n- Plastic bricks ([design details](https://example.com))\n- Steel brackets\n- Reinforcing bar (rebar)\n- Self-tapping timber screws\n- Anchoring adhesive and application gun\n\n*Safety equipment (eye/hearing protection, boots, dust mask) and additional tools like shovels or tape measures are also required but omitted here for brevity.*", - "references": "## Articles\n\n- [[filtered]: building brick from plastic waste - DesignWanted](https://designwanted.com/precious-plastic-brick/)\n\n## Books\n\n- [Reuse of Plastic Waste in Eco-efficient Concrete - Barnes & Noble](https://www.barnesandnoble.com/w/reuse-of-plastic-waste-in-eco-efficient-concrete-fernando-pacheco-torgal/1144310258)\n\n## Papers\n\n- [A Review of Plastic Bricks as a Construction Material - IJTSRD (PDF)](https://www.ijtsrd.com/papers/ijtsrd67061.pdf)\n- [Comparing the Properties of PET Plastic Bricks to Concrete (PDF)](https://par.nsf.gov/servlets/purl/10215520)\n\n## YouTube\n\n- [Forming Concrete with Plastic Forms - YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MK7qBFYau6U)\n\n## Opensource Designs\n\n- Modular Interconnecting Formwork - [filtered]", - "brief": "Use plastic bricks for concrete formwork with this detailed guide. Learn essential tools, materials, and steps for constructing secure, reusable molds efficiently." + "content": "This tutorial will explain, in general terms, how to use recycled plastic bricks to build a formwork for construction with concrete. Formwork functions as a mould for poured mediums in the construction, and in this case, the bricks function as a removable and reusable tool for building that form.\n\n\nUser Location: Melbourne, Australia\n\nFormwork is used to create frames to pour concrete,rammed earth or other mediums in the construction industry. These are traditionally made out of wood but we can also make them from recycled plastic 🙂\n\n\nWe suggest to start small, learn how it works, iterate and expand your ideas. Costs can vary greatly depending on your build.\n\nThe existing [filtered] brick designs, combined with thin sheets made on the sheetpress will allow you to start formworking. However drawings of a mould for a brick that's optimised for formworking are available at the Thingiverse link, and a How To describing how to machine this will be coming shortly.\n\n\nHearing & eye protection\nSafety boots\nDust mask\nSkills in the operation of powertools, in particular drills\nA safety induction into construction in your jurisdiction\nExperience in mixing and pouring concrete\nEnough bricks to build your desired formwork\nCement, sand & aggregate\nBuilding design drawings\nImpact driver & drill\nMasonry drill bits & optional masonry drill\nSelf tapping timber screws\nReinforcing bar (rebar)*\nRebar ties & rebar tie tool\nStarter bars, safety caps\nAnchoring adhesive & applicating gun\nConcrete mixer & plastic tubs\nConcrete shovels\nSteel brackets**\nConcrete vibrator\nTrowel\nHot glue gun & hot glue sticks\nStringline, chalk and/or construction spraypaint\nTape measure\nWire brush\n\n* You may need a tool to cut rebar to size. We used a reciprocating saw, but a grinder will also work.\n** You will need a way to secure your steel brackets to the ground around your formwork. We used a combination of timber screws, formwork stakes & powder actuated fasteners.\n\nUsing chalk, stringline, and/or spray paint and a drawing of the relevant parts of your structure, mark out where the wall you intend to build will be erected.\n\nWe marked out our walls with green paint.\n\nDrill holes in the slab to the thickness specified by your anchoring adhesive. Clear the holes of concrete dust. Inject the anchoring adhesive into the holes, and then install your starter bars. Be careful to follow the instructions of your adhesive. You may need to wait up to 24 hours for the adhesive to set. Take care to cover the starter bars with safety caps when they are unattended.\n\nWhere required, install additional rebar for your wall using rebar ties and a rebar tie tool.\n\nFollowing the outside of the wall that was marked out in step #5, lay bricks in rows. If you have large seams between your bricks you may want to fill those with hot glue while you erect the formwork. A trowel and a piece of pipe will allow you to clean up your hot glue as you add it to the seams. Alternatively, you can use a thin sheet, potentially produced on a sheetpress, to cover the bricks. This can be taped to the bricks. It does not need to be secured particularly strongly, as the concrete will press it against the bricks tightly when poured.\n\nHow you achieve this step will be dependent on your building site, and preferences, but our suggestion is to use small steel brackets, where you can screw them to timber, or nail them to a concrete slab. These brackets will serve the dual purpose of preventing the formwork from lifting from the ground, and preventing individual bricks from blowing outwards due to the static load of the poured concrete.\n\nEvery brick at ground level must be supported from directly behind its main, concrete facing surface. And at least every third brick must be bolted to the ground to prevent the formwork rising. Every brick on the top row of your formwork should also be secured in some way to it’s neighbour. Both the top and the bottom row of your formwork are not supported by the teeth of other bricks, meaning that they will blow out if not secured via alternative means.\n\nAlternatives to steel brackets could include using simple chocks placed against the back of the main concrete facing surface. These c\n\nBefore pouring concrete, it is crucial to inspect your formwork thoroughly for potential issues that could arise. Improperly secured bricks, large seams and a misaligned formwork will all result in a failure to build the wall that you intend. Concrete blowouts can be dangerous, and are nearly impossible to stop once they start due to the mass of the material involved.\n\nOnce you are certain your formwork is secured, from top to bottom, arrange your concrete mixer, and concrete ingredients in a way that will allow you to easily pour the material into the form.\n\nEnsure you have enough time in the day to complete the pour before starting.\n\n\nTo start with, mix enough concrete to build around 20-40mm of your wall. Shovel it into the formwork, and vibrate it into the corners. As you go, inspect the outer side of your formwork for concrete attempting to come out the bottom. Mix and pour slowly, while inspecting the bottom of your form as you go until you get to around 150mm above ground level. At this point you have cleared the first major hurdle. Let the concrete that you have already poured set for 90 minutes, as this will allow it to support the weight of subsequent pours, without as much risk of a blowout.\n\nOnce the first run of concrete is hardening, you can increase the cadence of your pours. Ensure that you continue to inspect the formwork as you go higher. In our case we poured approximately 60L of concrete every half an hour after the first part of our wall, remembering to vibrate the air pockets out as we went. A faster cadence could be possible when using rapid set cement, however this would not be advisable on your first try as it may set either before you’ve vibrated it thoroughly, or in the case you have a blow out, it will be substantially harder to rectify the site.\n\nOnce you reach the top of your formwork, use a trowel to make a nice surface at the top. Edging tools will allow you to create nice bevels on the corners of your wall.\n\n\nOnce the concrete starts to turn to a lighter grey, it is getting close to hard enough to remove your formwork. We waited for 36 hours so as to be sure it was set well enough to remain standing, but you may want to refer to the manufacturer’s specifications for the cement that you use, as well as details like the ambient temperature, which will affect the speed with which it sets. If in doubt, wait longer before starting this step.\n\nTo demould, we started by undoing any fasteners we had at the top layer, and removing the bracing. Bricks were easily removed by rocking them back and forth, to lift them off the teeth underneath. Hot glue where used will break off easily.\n\n\nIn our case, some of the seams were not well filled with hot glue, so concrete got into them. This can be avoided, but in case it’s an issue for you too, it’s a good idea to clean your bricks right after you’ve finished demoulding, as the concrete will still be weak and crumbly. Wear safety glasses and rub those bricks with a wire brush.\n\nIf you had to screw into your bricks, holes can be filled with a hot glue gun, and sticks of the plastic you used to make your bricks. It’s not a bad idea to do this while you’re still on site, as next time when you use the bricks you might forget to inspect for cavities.\n \nIn general, it’s a good idea to maintain a neat construction site, as any subsequent work carried out there can be affected by hazards you leave behind. So clean up your tools and materials once you’re done!\n\nAlso, if relevant, remember to feed the horse. And to avoid the tiger snake." } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/multishape-beads-mould/README.md b/howtos/multishape-beads-mould/README.md index 0df8c7810..e146a179a 100644 --- a/howtos/multishape-beads-mould/README.md +++ b/howtos/multishape-beads-mould/README.md @@ -1,34 +1,36 @@ --- title: Multishape beads mould slug: multishape-beads-mould -description: ### Mini Beads Mold Tutorial +description: A mini beads mould to create various shapes at the same time! Can be used for any kind of jewellery creations. Here are the steps to make one! -Create diverse bead shapes simultaneously for jewelry making with this mini beads mold. Follow these steps to make your own! tags: ["mould","product","injection"] category: Moulds difficulty: Medium time: < 1 hour -keywords: mini beads mold, jewelry making, CNC milling, injection molding, bead shapes, aluminum mold, Bangkok Thailand, DIY mold tutorial, craft supplies, mold design +keywords: location: Bangkok, Thailand --- # Multishape beads mould ![Multishape beads mould](IMG_5033-186b9ecd833.JPG) -### Mini Beads Mold Tutorial +A mini beads mould to create various shapes at the same time! Can be used for any kind of jewellery creations. Here are the steps to make one! -Create diverse bead shapes simultaneously for jewelry making with this mini beads mold. Follow these steps to make your own! User Location: Bangkok, Thailand ## Steps ### Step 1: Bead shapes -To create various bead sizes and shapes, a mould with balanced cavities is necessary. Design your desired shapes based on the types and sizes of cords you plan to use, ensuring the bead hole is approximately 3% larger than the cord. Align bead holes vertically with the mould's detachment line. All beads are bisected at their center except the star-shaped one, which requires a dowel pin for the hole, due to CNC machine limits when placed vertically. +As we want different sizes and shapes of beads, we need to make the mould with cavity balance. You can design the shapes you desire for such jewellery just think about types/sizes of cords you would want to use them with (the bead hole in the mould should be bigger than the cords size about 3%) The bead holes should be aligned vertically with the mould detachment line. +So, we bisected each bead at its centre except the starred shape due to the CNC machine limitation if we placed it vertically. We need a dowel pin to make the bead hole instead. + ![1677472925922-186b9ed1ba3.jpg](./1677472925922-186b9ed1ba3.jpg) ### Step 2: The mould -There are 16 bead cavities in the mold, with the quantity based on the barrel capacity. Adjust the bead count per mold to balance the plastic mass according to flow direction. The components are CNC-milled from two aluminum blocks, comprising three pieces: top and bottom aluminum parts, and a dowel pin for the star bead. The top part connects to a bronze nipple (1/2 inch NPT). +There’re 16 bead cavities in our mould, the number of beads depends on the barrel capacity. You’d want to adjust the number of beads per mould as appropriate, just balance the mass of plastic on each side, according to the direction of plastic flow. Or please feel free to download our version down below! +Finally, the bottom and top parts are CNC-milled out of 2 blocks of aluminium and it comprises a total of 3 pieces; bottom and top parts made of aluminium, and a dowel pin for the star bead. The top part is attached to a bronze nipple (1/2inch NPT) + ![1-186b9edca1b.jpg](./1-186b9edca1b.jpg) @@ -38,10 +40,11 @@ There are 16 bead cavities in the mold, with the quantity based on the barrel ca ### Step 3: Mould assembling -Tools needed: Gloves, Mask, 17 mm (0.67 in) Wrench, 4 mm (0.16 in) Allen Wrench -Machines needed: Injection Machine, Shredder (or Shredded Plastics) +Tools needed: Gloves, Mask, 17 Wrench, 4 Allen wrench +Machines needed: Injection machine and a shredder (or shredded plastics) + +Make sure the mould is clean then place the dowel pin in the star shape and connect the top and bottom parts, using the guide pin to help with the alignment. Insert the M10 bolts at 4 corners and 2 bolts counter bore in the 2 holes at the centre. Now, injection time! -Ensure the mold is clean. Place the dowel pin in the star shape and align the top and bottom parts using the guide pin. Insert M10 bolts at the four corners and two counter-bore bolts in the center holes. Proceed with injection. ![IMG_0516-186b9ef8603.JPG](./IMG_0516-186b9ef8603.JPG) @@ -51,27 +54,15 @@ Ensure the mold is clean. Place the dowel pin in the star shape and align the to ### Step 4: Inject -### Injection Molding Process - -1. **Prepare the Machine** - - Place shredded plastic into the injection machine. - - Set the temperature to the appropriate melting point for your plastic type. - -2. **Heat and Inject** - - Heat the machine, ensuring the handle remains down to apply pressure. - - Lift the handle and position your mold in the injector. - - **Safety First**: Wear a protective mask and gloves. - -3. **Inject the Plastic** - - Pull down the handle forcefully to inject the melted plastic into the mold. - - Maintain pressure for approximately one minute, adjusting the time based on the plastic type used. +Put the shredded plastics into the injection machine, set the temperature at the proper melting point of your plastic types. After heating the machine (keep the handle bar down to have pressure on the plastic), lift the bar up and circle your mould in the injector (Don’t forget to wear a protective mask and gloves) Inject the melted plastic into the mould by pulling down the bar as hard as you can. Wait for a minute to maintain the pressure on the plastics (the duration depends on the plastic types as well) ![IMG_4998-186b9eff1e1.jpg](./IMG_4998-186b9eff1e1.jpg) ### Step 5: Crack it open! -Lift the bar slightly and remove the mold. Ensure the injection is closed to prevent plastic from dripping. Unscrew all bolts and use a slotted screwdriver to open the mold along the marks. Tap the plastic out from the back through the nozzle connector, ensuring it is sufficiently cooled, and remove the dowel pin. +Lift the bar up a little bit and unmould (don’t forget to close the injection to prevent the plastic dripping from the barrel) . Unscrew all bolts and use a slotted screwdriver to help open the mould along the marks. Hammer the plastic out of the mould from the back through the nozzle connector (make sure the plastic has cooled down enough and don’t forget to remove the dowel pin) + ![led-1-186b9f0f77e.jpg](./led-1-186b9f0f77e.jpg) @@ -84,7 +75,7 @@ Lift the bar slightly and remove the mold. Ensure the injection is closed to pre ### Step 6: Finishing -Cut all excess parts with pliers, then proceed with your creations. +Cut all excess parts with a plier and it’s time for your beautiful creations. ![DCD04845-6D8A-40F6-87F8-ACCD0D7B3995-186b9f17bb3.jpg](./DCD04845-6D8A-40F6-87F8-ACCD0D7B3995-186b9f17bb3.jpg) @@ -96,45 +87,4 @@ Cut all excess parts with pliers, then proceed with your creations. ![Bracelet3-186b9f1b882.jpg](./Bracelet3-186b9f1b882.jpg) ## Resources -### Tools - -- Safety gloves (~~[example](https://example.com/gloves)~~) -- Protective mask (~~[example](https://example.com/mask)~~) -- 17 mm wrench (~~[example](https://example.com/wrench17mm)~~) -- 4 mm Allen wrench (~~[example](https://example.com/allen4mm)~~) -- Slotted screwdriver (~~[example](https://example.com/screwdriver)~~) - -### Hardware - -- Injection molding machine (~~[example](https://example.com/injection)~~) -- Plastic shredder (~~[example](https://example.com/shredder)~~) -- CNC milling machine (~~[example](https://example.com/cnc)~~) -- Aluminum blocks (for mold components) -- Dowel pin (for star-shaped bead) - -### Software - -- CAD software (e.g., Fusion 360, ~~[link](https://example.com/cad)~~) -- CAM software (e.g., Mastercam, ~~[link](https://example.com/cam)~~) -## References -## Articles - -- [How to make silicone focal beads? - Beadable Bliss](https://www.beadablebliss.com/blogs/info/how-to-make-silicone-focal-beads) -- [How to make silicone beads? - Beadable Bliss](https://www.beadablebliss.com/blogs/info/how-to-make-silicone-beads) -- [Make Silicone Molds from Charms - The Blue Bottle Tree](https://thebluebottletree.com/make-silicone-molds-charms/) -- ~~[Lentil Bead Molds - Instructions - Glass With A Past](https://glasswithapast.com/knowledgebase/lentil-bead-molds-instuctions/)~~ -- [ABS Injection Molding Manufacturing Factory - ZetarMold](https://zetarmold.com/abs-injection-molding-guide/) -- [Ultimate Guide to Injection Molding | RapidDirect](https://www.rapiddirect.com/blog/ultimate-guide-to-injection-molding/) -- [EPP Molding Process: The Ultimate Guide 2024 - Epsole](https://epsole.com/epp-molding-process/) -- [Plastic Colorants Guide for Injection Molded Parts - RevPart](https://revpart.com/using-plastic-colorants/) - -## YouTube - -- [Basic Mould Making - Beads and Spheres - YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WFVYjzoqxcQ) - -## Open Source Designs - -- Premium Mould #3 - Bead Mould (3 Sizes) - [filtered] -- [DIY Injection Molding - Instructables](https://www.instructables.com/DIY-Injection-Molding/) -- [Beadifier - Create bead project from Image - GitHub](https://github.com/maxcleme/beadifier) -- [Cocksmithing: Silicone Mold-Making - GitHub](https://github.com/starkatt/Cocksmithing/blob/main/cocksmithing.md) \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/multishape-beads-mould/config.json b/howtos/multishape-beads-mould/config.json index d701feab5..939f72ff9 100644 --- a/howtos/multishape-beads-mould/config.json +++ b/howtos/multishape-beads-mould/config.json @@ -1,7 +1,7 @@ { "comments": [], "id": "bBAGqoL6Lzoynn22BWMV", - "description": "### Mini Beads Mold Tutorial\n\nCreate diverse bead shapes simultaneously for jewelry making with this mini beads mold. Follow these steps to make your own!", + "description": "A mini beads mould to create various shapes at the same time! Can be used for any kind of jewellery creations. Here are the steps to make one!\n", "files": [ null ], @@ -11,7 +11,7 @@ "_created": "2023-03-07T02:55:46.176Z", "steps": [ { - "text": "To create various bead sizes and shapes, a mould with balanced cavities is necessary. Design your desired shapes based on the types and sizes of cords you plan to use, ensuring the bead hole is approximately 3% larger than the cord. Align bead holes vertically with the mould's detachment line. All beads are bisected at their center except the star-shaped one, which requires a dowel pin for the hole, due to CNC machine limits when placed vertically.", + "text": "As we want different sizes and shapes of beads, we need to make the mould with cavity balance. You can design the shapes you desire for such jewellery just think about types/sizes of cords you would want to use them with (the bead hole in the mould should be bigger than the cords size about 3%) The bead holes should be aligned vertically with the mould detachment line.\nSo, we bisected each bead at its centre except the starred shape due to the CNC machine limitation if we placed it vertically. We need a dowel pin to make the bead hole instead. \n", "title": "Bead shapes", "images": [ { @@ -57,7 +57,7 @@ } ], "title": "The mould", - "text": "There are 16 bead cavities in the mold, with the quantity based on the barrel capacity. Adjust the bead count per mold to balance the plastic mass according to flow direction. The components are CNC-milled from two aluminum blocks, comprising three pieces: top and bottom aluminum parts, and a dowel pin for the star bead. The top part connects to a bronze nipple (1/2 inch NPT).", + "text": "There’re 16 bead cavities in our mould, the number of beads depends on the barrel capacity. You’d want to adjust the number of beads per mould as appropriate, just balance the mass of plastic on each side, according to the direction of plastic flow. Or please feel free to download our version down below!\nFinally, the bottom and top parts are CNC-milled out of 2 blocks of aluminium and it comprises a total of 3 pieces; bottom and top parts made of aluminium, and a dowel pin for the star bead. The top part is attached to a bronze nipple (1/2inch NPT)\n", "_animationKey": "unique2" }, { @@ -89,7 +89,7 @@ ], "title": "Mould assembling", "_animationKey": "uniquetbnkj", - "text": "Tools needed: Gloves, Mask, 17 mm (0.67 in) Wrench, 4 mm (0.16 in) Allen Wrench \nMachines needed: Injection Machine, Shredder (or Shredded Plastics) \n\nEnsure the mold is clean. Place the dowel pin in the star shape and align the top and bottom parts using the guide pin. Insert M10 bolts at the four corners and two counter-bore bolts in the center holes. Proceed with injection." + "text": "Tools needed: Gloves, Mask, 17 Wrench, 4 Allen wrench\nMachines needed: Injection machine and a shredder (or shredded plastics)\n\nMake sure the mould is clean then place the dowel pin in the star shape and connect the top and bottom parts, using the guide pin to help with the alignment. Insert the M10 bolts at 4 corners and 2 bolts counter bore in the 2 holes at the centre. Now, injection time!\n" }, { "images": [ @@ -108,7 +108,7 @@ ], "title": "Inject", "_animationKey": "uniquejree3e", - "text": "### Injection Molding Process\n\n1. **Prepare the Machine**\n - Place shredded plastic into the injection machine.\n - Set the temperature to the appropriate melting point for your plastic type.\n\n2. **Heat and Inject**\n - Heat the machine, ensuring the handle remains down to apply pressure.\n - Lift the handle and position your mold in the injector.\n - **Safety First**: Wear a protective mask and gloves.\n\n3. **Inject the Plastic**\n - Pull down the handle forcefully to inject the melted plastic into the mold.\n - Maintain pressure for approximately one minute, adjusting the time based on the plastic type used." + "text": "Put the shredded plastics into the injection machine, set the temperature at the proper melting point of your plastic types. After heating the machine (keep the handle bar down to have pressure on the plastic), lift the bar up and circle your mould in the injector (Don’t forget to wear a protective mask and gloves) Inject the melted plastic into the mould by pulling down the bar as hard as you can. Wait for a minute to maintain the pressure on the plastics (the duration depends on the plastic types as well)" }, { "images": [ @@ -150,7 +150,7 @@ } ], "title": "Crack it open!", - "text": "Lift the bar slightly and remove the mold. Ensure the injection is closed to prevent plastic from dripping. Unscrew all bolts and use a slotted screwdriver to open the mold along the marks. Tap the plastic out from the back through the nozzle connector, ensuring it is sufficiently cooled, and remove the dowel pin.", + "text": "Lift the bar up a little bit and unmould (don’t forget to close the injection to prevent the plastic dripping from the barrel) . Unscrew all bolts and use a slotted screwdriver to help open the mould along the marks. Hammer the plastic out of the mould from the back through the nozzle connector (make sure the plastic has cooled down enough and don’t forget to remove the dowel pin)\n", "_animationKey": "unique394psi" }, { @@ -194,7 +194,7 @@ } ], "_animationKey": "uniqueqqedop", - "text": "Cut all excess parts with pliers, then proceed with your creations." + "text": "Cut all excess parts with a plier and it’s time for your beautiful creations." } ], "title": "Multishape beads mould", @@ -365,9 +365,5 @@ "urls": [] } }, - "content": "### Mini Beads Mold Tutorial\n\nCreate diverse bead shapes simultaneously for jewelry making with this mini beads mold. Follow these steps to make your own!\n\n\nUser Location: Bangkok, Thailand\n\nTo create various bead sizes and shapes, a mould with balanced cavities is necessary. Design your desired shapes based on the types and sizes of cords you plan to use, ensuring the bead hole is approximately 3% larger than the cord. Align bead holes vertically with the mould's detachment line. All beads are bisected at their center except the star-shaped one, which requires a dowel pin for the hole, due to CNC machine limits when placed vertically.\n\nThere are 16 bead cavities in the mold, with the quantity based on the barrel capacity. Adjust the bead count per mold to balance the plastic mass according to flow direction. The components are CNC-milled from two aluminum blocks, comprising three pieces: top and bottom aluminum parts, and a dowel pin for the star bead. The top part connects to a bronze nipple (1/2 inch NPT).\n\nTools needed: Gloves, Mask, 17 mm (0.67 in) Wrench, 4 mm (0.16 in) Allen Wrench \nMachines needed: Injection Machine, Shredder (or Shredded Plastics) \n\nEnsure the mold is clean. Place the dowel pin in the star shape and align the top and bottom parts using the guide pin. Insert M10 bolts at the four corners and two counter-bore bolts in the center holes. Proceed with injection.\n\n### Injection Molding Process\n\n1. **Prepare the Machine**\n - Place shredded plastic into the injection machine.\n - Set the temperature to the appropriate melting point for your plastic type.\n\n2. **Heat and Inject**\n - Heat the machine, ensuring the handle remains down to apply pressure.\n - Lift the handle and position your mold in the injector.\n - **Safety First**: Wear a protective mask and gloves.\n\n3. **Inject the Plastic**\n - Pull down the handle forcefully to inject the melted plastic into the mold.\n - Maintain pressure for approximately one minute, adjusting the time based on the plastic type used.\n\nLift the bar slightly and remove the mold. Ensure the injection is closed to prevent plastic from dripping. Unscrew all bolts and use a slotted screwdriver to open the mold along the marks. Tap the plastic out from the back through the nozzle connector, ensuring it is sufficiently cooled, and remove the dowel pin.\n\nCut all excess parts with pliers, then proceed with your creations.", - "keywords": "mini beads mold, jewelry making, CNC milling, injection molding, bead shapes, aluminum mold, Bangkok Thailand, DIY mold tutorial, craft supplies, mold design", - "resources": "### Tools\n\n- Safety gloves (~~[example](https://example.com/gloves)~~)\n- Protective mask (~~[example](https://example.com/mask)~~)\n- 17 mm wrench (~~[example](https://example.com/wrench17mm)~~)\n- 4 mm Allen wrench (~~[example](https://example.com/allen4mm)~~)\n- Slotted screwdriver (~~[example](https://example.com/screwdriver)~~)\n\n### Hardware\n\n- Injection molding machine (~~[example](https://example.com/injection)~~)\n- Plastic shredder (~~[example](https://example.com/shredder)~~)\n- CNC milling machine (~~[example](https://example.com/cnc)~~)\n- Aluminum blocks (for mold components)\n- Dowel pin (for star-shaped bead)\n\n### Software\n\n- CAD software (e.g., Fusion 360, ~~[link](https://example.com/cad)~~)\n- CAM software (e.g., Mastercam, ~~[link](https://example.com/cam)~~)", - "references": "## Articles\n\n- [How to make silicone focal beads? - Beadable Bliss](https://www.beadablebliss.com/blogs/info/how-to-make-silicone-focal-beads)\n- [How to make silicone beads? - Beadable Bliss](https://www.beadablebliss.com/blogs/info/how-to-make-silicone-beads)\n- [Make Silicone Molds from Charms - The Blue Bottle Tree](https://thebluebottletree.com/make-silicone-molds-charms/)\n- ~~[Lentil Bead Molds - Instructions - Glass With A Past](https://glasswithapast.com/knowledgebase/lentil-bead-molds-instuctions/)~~\n- [ABS Injection Molding Manufacturing Factory - ZetarMold](https://zetarmold.com/abs-injection-molding-guide/)\n- [Ultimate Guide to Injection Molding | RapidDirect](https://www.rapiddirect.com/blog/ultimate-guide-to-injection-molding/)\n- [EPP Molding Process: The Ultimate Guide 2024 - Epsole](https://epsole.com/epp-molding-process/)\n- [Plastic Colorants Guide for Injection Molded Parts - RevPart](https://revpart.com/using-plastic-colorants/)\n\n## YouTube\n\n- [Basic Mould Making - Beads and Spheres - YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WFVYjzoqxcQ)\n\n## Open Source Designs\n\n- Premium Mould #3 - Bead Mould (3 Sizes) - [filtered]\n- [DIY Injection Molding - Instructables](https://www.instructables.com/DIY-Injection-Molding/)\n- [Beadifier - Create bead project from Image - GitHub](https://github.com/maxcleme/beadifier)\n- [Cocksmithing: Silicone Mold-Making - GitHub](https://github.com/starkatt/Cocksmithing/blob/main/cocksmithing.md)", - "brief": "Create diverse bead shapes for jewelry with our mini beads mold. Learn how to make your own using CNC-milled aluminum blocks and an easy injection process." + "content": "A mini beads mould to create various shapes at the same time! Can be used for any kind of jewellery creations. Here are the steps to make one!\n\n\n\nUser Location: Bangkok, Thailand\n\nAs we want different sizes and shapes of beads, we need to make the mould with cavity balance. You can design the shapes you desire for such jewellery just think about types/sizes of cords you would want to use them with (the bead hole in the mould should be bigger than the cords size about 3%) The bead holes should be aligned vertically with the mould detachment line.\nSo, we bisected each bead at its centre except the starred shape due to the CNC machine limitation if we placed it vertically. We need a dowel pin to make the bead hole instead. \n\n\nThere’re 16 bead cavities in our mould, the number of beads depends on the barrel capacity. You’d want to adjust the number of beads per mould as appropriate, just balance the mass of plastic on each side, according to the direction of plastic flow. Or please feel free to download our version down below!\nFinally, the bottom and top parts are CNC-milled out of 2 blocks of aluminium and it comprises a total of 3 pieces; bottom and top parts made of aluminium, and a dowel pin for the star bead. The top part is attached to a bronze nipple (1/2inch NPT)\n\n\nTools needed: Gloves, Mask, 17 Wrench, 4 Allen wrench\nMachines needed: Injection machine and a shredder (or shredded plastics)\n\nMake sure the mould is clean then place the dowel pin in the star shape and connect the top and bottom parts, using the guide pin to help with the alignment. Insert the M10 bolts at 4 corners and 2 bolts counter bore in the 2 holes at the centre. Now, injection time!\n\n\nPut the shredded plastics into the injection machine, set the temperature at the proper melting point of your plastic types. After heating the machine (keep the handle bar down to have pressure on the plastic), lift the bar up and circle your mould in the injector (Don’t forget to wear a protective mask and gloves) Inject the melted plastic into the mould by pulling down the bar as hard as you can. Wait for a minute to maintain the pressure on the plastics (the duration depends on the plastic types as well)\n\nLift the bar up a little bit and unmould (don’t forget to close the injection to prevent the plastic dripping from the barrel) . Unscrew all bolts and use a slotted screwdriver to help open the mould along the marks. Hammer the plastic out of the mould from the back through the nozzle connector (make sure the plastic has cooled down enough and don’t forget to remove the dowel pin)\n\n\nCut all excess parts with a plier and it’s time for your beautiful creations." } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/necologica-key-hanger/README.md b/howtos/necologica-key-hanger/README.md index 306aab0fd..01a8580f5 100644 --- a/howtos/necologica-key-hanger/README.md +++ b/howtos/necologica-key-hanger/README.md @@ -1,25 +1,33 @@ --- title: Necologica Key Hanger slug: necologica-key-hanger -description: This key holder is suited for use with carabiners. You can hang glasses, keys, and chinstraps from its ends. It is mounted to the wall with screws. Begin with a 5mm (0.2 inches) HDPE sheet. +description: It is an ideal key holder to use with carabiners. +At its ends you can hang glasses, keys, chinstraps. +It is attached to the wall with screws. +We start from a 5mm HDPE sheet. +*in the how to section, you can find how to make a recycled plastic sheet with various methods. Otherwise, in the bazaar or in the precious plastic network you can find someone to buy from. tags: ["HDPE","product","sheetpress"] category: Products difficulty: Medium time: < 5 hours -keywords: key holder, carabiners, wall-mounted key hanger, HDPE sheet, CNC Router, single-edged mill, aluminum bending mill, heat gun, wooden mold, DIY key hanger +keywords: location: Necochea, Argentina --- # Necologica Key Hanger ![Necologica Key Hanger](Mesa_de_trabajo_1-100.jpg) -This key holder is suited for use with carabiners. You can hang glasses, keys, and chinstraps from its ends. It is mounted to the wall with screws. Begin with a 5mm (0.2 inches) HDPE sheet. +It is an ideal key holder to use with carabiners. +At its ends you can hang glasses, keys, chinstraps. +It is attached to the wall with screws. +We start from a 5mm HDPE sheet. +*in the how to section, you can find how to make a recycled plastic sheet with various methods. Otherwise, in the bazaar or in the precious plastic network you can find someone to buy from. User Location: Necochea, Argentina ## Steps ### Step 1: Ready set go -Download the attached .dxf file and select a 0.2-inch (5 mm) thick sheet. Use a CNC Router for cutting. +Download the attached .dxf file and choose a 5mm thick sheet. Cut with cnc CNC Router. +*If this is your first time, we recommend using a 1-edged 4mm diameter mill for cuts. To make the bending, it is ideal to use a composite aluminum bending mill at a max depth of 3 mm -*For first-time users, a single-edged 0.16-inch (4 mm) diameter mill is recommended. For bending, use a composite aluminum bending mill with a maximum depth of 0.12 inches (3 mm). ![Mesa de trabajo 6-100.jpg](./Mesa_de_trabajo_6-100.jpg) @@ -32,7 +40,8 @@ Download the attached .dxf file and select a 0.2-inch (5 mm) thick sheet. Use a ### Step 2: Folded -Detach all sheet components and fold them with a heat gun. Heat both sides and press with a non-stick tool, like a wooden rod. Beforehand, prepare the wooden mold shown in the image to cool the piece, making two cuts the width of the key hanger. +Release all the pieces of the sheet and fold using a heat gun. Heat the area on both sides and push using a wooden rod or some other material that does not stick to the hot piece. Prior to this, make the wooden mold as seen in the image to cool, making two cuts the width of the key hanger. + ![Mesa de trabajo 7-100.jpg](./Mesa_de_trabajo_7-100.jpg) @@ -45,7 +54,10 @@ Detach all sheet components and fold them with a heat gun. Heat both sides and p ### Step 3: Placement -Drill two holes in the wall and use appropriate fixings based on the wall material. First, attach the perforated part to the wall, then embed the second part. Thread the horizontal piece from one side through an insert. The horizontal key holder remains secure due to its design. Enjoy your key hanger. +Make two holes in the wall and use the necessary fixing elements according to the material to be drilled. First the part with the perforations must be fixed to the wall and then the second part must be embedded. +To place the horizontal we must thread from one of the sides, through one of the inserts. +Clever! The horizontal piece that holds the keys will not come off because it has a small grimace that prevents displacement. Enjoy the key hanger + ![Mesa de trabajo 2-100.jpg](./Mesa_de_trabajo_2-100.jpg) @@ -55,11 +67,11 @@ Drill two holes in the wall and use appropriate fixings based on the wall materi ### Step 4: Hang what you like -### Key Hanger Tutorial +Well, we already have the key hanger hanging! Now we can be creative and hang whatever we want. +In these images we show you what we usually hang. +Keys, with or without carabiner, facemasks, helmets, glasses, padlock. The key hanger is very practical and allows us to have what we always use within reach. We hope you share with us how you use it. -We have the key hanger installed. Now, you can get creative with what you hang. Common items include keys (with or without a carabiner), face masks, helmets, glasses, and padlocks. This practical hanger keeps frequently used items accessible. We invite you to share how you utilize it. - -Best regards from Necochea, Argentina. +Regards from Necochea, Argentina. Necologica. @@ -69,44 +81,4 @@ Necologica. ![WhatsApp Image 2021-08-04 at 09.54.08.jpeg](./WhatsApp_Image_2021-08-04_at_09.54.08.jpeg) ## Resources -To create the key hanger described in the tutorial, the following tools, software, and materials are required: - -### Tools - -- CNC CNC Router (for precision cutting) -- Single-edged 4 mm diameter mill (suitable for first-time users) -- Composite aluminum bending mill (3 mm max depth) -- Heat gun (for folding HDPE components) -- Non-stick tool (e.g., wooden rod for pressing heated plastic) - -### Software - -- CAD software ([AutoCAD](https://www.autodesk.com/products/autocad) or similar for .dxf file preparation) - -### Hardware/Materials - -- 5 mm thick HDPE sheet (primary material) -- Wall screws and anchors (material-specific fixings) -- Threaded insert (for horizontal piece assembly) -- Wooden mold (custom-made for cooling after bending) -- Carabiner (optional, for hanging items like keys) - -The tools and materials focus on shaping the HDPE sheet and mounting the final product securely. Hardware selections depend on wall type (e.g., concrete vs. drywall). No specialized software beyond CAD is mentioned, though CNC CNC Router control software may be required[1][2]. -## References -## Articles - -- [Make your own key holder in 4 easy steps | A DIY project](https://plasticsheetsshop.co.uk/diy/key-holder/) -- [KEY HOLDER | DESIGN INNOVATION CENTER](https://vadic.vigyanashram.blog/2019/03/09/key-holder-4/) -- [Design Your Own Molecule Key Holder - Instructables](https://www.instructables.com/Design-Your-Own-Molecule-Key-Holder/) - -## YouTube - -- [How to CNC shelf making projects - YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IFhlhWOsLT4) -- [HDPE Cutting Boards - YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E546JLroD8I) -- [Tips and Tricks for HDPE machining on a desktop CNC Router - YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IYm613Nrd0A) - -## Open-source Designs - -- [Laser Cut Key Holder (218) Files Free Download - 3axis.co](https://3axis.co/laser-cut/key-holder/) -- [Laser Cut Key Holder Templates | 71 Files for Free Download - Vecty](https://vecty.co/laser-cut/key-holder) -- [Key Hanger DXF 121 files Free Download - Vectors File](https://vectorsfile.com/dxf/key-hanger/) \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/necologica-key-hanger/config.json b/howtos/necologica-key-hanger/config.json index 427f06419..38393e47f 100644 --- a/howtos/necologica-key-hanger/config.json +++ b/howtos/necologica-key-hanger/config.json @@ -1,5 +1,5 @@ { - "description": "This key holder is suited for use with carabiners. You can hang glasses, keys, and chinstraps from its ends. It is mounted to the wall with screws. Begin with a 5mm (0.2 inches) HDPE sheet.", + "description": "It is an ideal key holder to use with carabiners.\nAt its ends you can hang glasses, keys, chinstraps.\nIt is attached to the wall with screws.\nWe start from a 5mm HDPE sheet.\n*in the how to section, you can find how to make a recycled plastic sheet with various methods. Otherwise, in the bazaar or in the precious plastic network you can find someone to buy from.", "difficulty_level": "Medium", "_deleted": false, "_id": "6GfdVYH7SlX0TRpiZQ6G", @@ -83,10 +83,10 @@ ], "_animationKey": "unique1", "title": "Ready set go", - "text": "Download the attached .dxf file and select a 0.2-inch (5 mm) thick sheet. Use a CNC Router for cutting.\n\n*For first-time users, a single-edged 0.16-inch (4 mm) diameter mill is recommended. For bending, use a composite aluminum bending mill with a maximum depth of 0.12 inches (3 mm)." + "text": "Download the attached .dxf file and choose a 5mm thick sheet. Cut with cnc CNC Router.\n*If this is your first time, we recommend using a 1-edged 4mm diameter mill for cuts. To make the bending, it is ideal to use a composite aluminum bending mill at a max depth of 3 mm\n" }, { - "text": "Detach all sheet components and fold them with a heat gun. Heat both sides and press with a non-stick tool, like a wooden rod. Beforehand, prepare the wooden mold shown in the image to cool the piece, making two cuts the width of the key hanger.", + "text": "Release all the pieces of the sheet and fold using a heat gun. Heat the area on both sides and push using a wooden rod or some other material that does not stick to the hot piece. Prior to this, make the wooden mold as seen in the image to cool, making two cuts the width of the key hanger.\n", "_animationKey": "unique2", "images": [ { @@ -129,7 +129,7 @@ "title": "Folded" }, { - "text": "Drill two holes in the wall and use appropriate fixings based on the wall material. First, attach the perforated part to the wall, then embed the second part. Thread the horizontal piece from one side through an insert. The horizontal key holder remains secure due to its design. Enjoy your key hanger.", + "text": "Make two holes in the wall and use the necessary fixing elements according to the material to be drilled. First the part with the perforations must be fixed to the wall and then the second part must be embedded. \nTo place the horizontal we must thread from one of the sides, through one of the inserts.\nClever! The horizontal piece that holds the keys will not come off because it has a small grimace that prevents displacement. Enjoy the key hanger\n", "title": "Placement", "_animationKey": "unique3", "images": [ @@ -188,7 +188,7 @@ } ], "_animationKey": "uniquezw8ebf", - "text": "### Key Hanger Tutorial\n\nWe have the key hanger installed. Now, you can get creative with what you hang. Common items include keys (with or without a carabiner), face masks, helmets, glasses, and padlocks. This practical hanger keeps frequently used items accessible. We invite you to share how you utilize it.\n\nBest regards from Necochea, Argentina. \nNecologica." + "text": "Well, we already have the key hanger hanging! Now we can be creative and hang whatever we want.\nIn these images we show you what we usually hang.\nKeys, with or without carabiner, facemasks, helmets, glasses, padlock. The key hanger is very practical and allows us to have what we always use within reach. We hope you share with us how you use it.\n\nRegards from Necochea, Argentina. \nNecologica." } ], "time": "< 5 hours", @@ -330,9 +330,5 @@ "urls": [] } }, - "content": "This key holder is suited for use with carabiners. You can hang glasses, keys, and chinstraps from its ends. It is mounted to the wall with screws. Begin with a 5mm (0.2 inches) HDPE sheet.\n\n\nUser Location: Necochea, Argentina\n\nDownload the attached .dxf file and select a 0.2-inch (5 mm) thick sheet. Use a CNC Router for cutting.\n\n*For first-time users, a single-edged 0.16-inch (4 mm) diameter mill is recommended. For bending, use a composite aluminum bending mill with a maximum depth of 0.12 inches (3 mm).\n\nDetach all sheet components and fold them with a heat gun. Heat both sides and press with a non-stick tool, like a wooden rod. Beforehand, prepare the wooden mold shown in the image to cool the piece, making two cuts the width of the key hanger.\n\nDrill two holes in the wall and use appropriate fixings based on the wall material. First, attach the perforated part to the wall, then embed the second part. Thread the horizontal piece from one side through an insert. The horizontal key holder remains secure due to its design. Enjoy your key hanger.\n\n### Key Hanger Tutorial\n\nWe have the key hanger installed. Now, you can get creative with what you hang. Common items include keys (with or without a carabiner), face masks, helmets, glasses, and padlocks. This practical hanger keeps frequently used items accessible. We invite you to share how you utilize it.\n\nBest regards from Necochea, Argentina. \nNecologica.", - "keywords": "key holder, carabiners, wall-mounted key hanger, HDPE sheet, CNC Router, single-edged mill, aluminum bending mill, heat gun, wooden mold, DIY key hanger", - "resources": "To create the key hanger described in the tutorial, the following tools, software, and materials are required:\n\n### Tools\n\n- CNC CNC Router (for precision cutting)\n- Single-edged 4 mm diameter mill (suitable for first-time users)\n- Composite aluminum bending mill (3 mm max depth)\n- Heat gun (for folding HDPE components)\n- Non-stick tool (e.g., wooden rod for pressing heated plastic)\n\n### Software\n\n- CAD software ([AutoCAD](https://www.autodesk.com/products/autocad) or similar for .dxf file preparation)\n\n### Hardware/Materials\n\n- 5 mm thick HDPE sheet (primary material)\n- Wall screws and anchors (material-specific fixings)\n- Threaded insert (for horizontal piece assembly)\n- Wooden mold (custom-made for cooling after bending)\n- Carabiner (optional, for hanging items like keys)\n\nThe tools and materials focus on shaping the HDPE sheet and mounting the final product securely. Hardware selections depend on wall type (e.g., concrete vs. drywall). No specialized software beyond CAD is mentioned, though CNC CNC Router control software may be required[1][2].", - "references": "## Articles\n\n- [Make your own key holder in 4 easy steps | A DIY project](https://plasticsheetsshop.co.uk/diy/key-holder/)\n- [KEY HOLDER | DESIGN INNOVATION CENTER](https://vadic.vigyanashram.blog/2019/03/09/key-holder-4/)\n- [Design Your Own Molecule Key Holder - Instructables](https://www.instructables.com/Design-Your-Own-Molecule-Key-Holder/)\n\n## YouTube\n\n- [How to CNC shelf making projects - YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IFhlhWOsLT4)\n- [HDPE Cutting Boards - YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E546JLroD8I)\n- [Tips and Tricks for HDPE machining on a desktop CNC Router - YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IYm613Nrd0A)\n\n## Open-source Designs\n\n- [Laser Cut Key Holder (218) Files Free Download - 3axis.co](https://3axis.co/laser-cut/key-holder/)\n- [Laser Cut Key Holder Templates | 71 Files for Free Download - Vecty](https://vecty.co/laser-cut/key-holder)\n- [Key Hanger DXF 121 files Free Download - Vectors File](https://vectorsfile.com/dxf/key-hanger/)", - "brief": "Wall-mounted key holder tutorial: Ideal for keys, glasses, or masks with carabiners. Made from HDPE using a CNC router. Easy installation for everyday items." + "content": "It is an ideal key holder to use with carabiners.\nAt its ends you can hang glasses, keys, chinstraps.\nIt is attached to the wall with screws.\nWe start from a 5mm HDPE sheet.\n*in the how to section, you can find how to make a recycled plastic sheet with various methods. Otherwise, in the bazaar or in the precious plastic network you can find someone to buy from.\n\n\nUser Location: Necochea, Argentina\n\nDownload the attached .dxf file and choose a 5mm thick sheet. Cut with cnc CNC Router.\n*If this is your first time, we recommend using a 1-edged 4mm diameter mill for cuts. To make the bending, it is ideal to use a composite aluminum bending mill at a max depth of 3 mm\n\n\nRelease all the pieces of the sheet and fold using a heat gun. Heat the area on both sides and push using a wooden rod or some other material that does not stick to the hot piece. Prior to this, make the wooden mold as seen in the image to cool, making two cuts the width of the key hanger.\n\n\nMake two holes in the wall and use the necessary fixing elements according to the material to be drilled. First the part with the perforations must be fixed to the wall and then the second part must be embedded. \nTo place the horizontal we must thread from one of the sides, through one of the inserts.\nClever! The horizontal piece that holds the keys will not come off because it has a small grimace that prevents displacement. Enjoy the key hanger\n\n\nWell, we already have the key hanger hanging! Now we can be creative and hang whatever we want.\nIn these images we show you what we usually hang.\nKeys, with or without carabiner, facemasks, helmets, glasses, padlock. The key hanger is very practical and allows us to have what we always use within reach. We hope you share with us how you use it.\n\nRegards from Necochea, Argentina. \nNecologica." } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/no-touch-tool-with-3d-printed-mould/README.md b/howtos/no-touch-tool-with-3d-printed-mould/README.md index 2f7a7f280..e4c33aa7d 100644 --- a/howtos/no-touch-tool-with-3d-printed-mould/README.md +++ b/howtos/no-touch-tool-with-3d-printed-mould/README.md @@ -1,25 +1,27 @@ --- title: No Touch Tool with 3D printed mould slug: no-touch-tool-with-3d-printed-mould -description: Develop a tool for engaging with frequently touched surfaces like door handles, pin pads, and light switches, reducing direct hand contact. This aids in minimizing the spread of Covid-19. Constructed from 3D-printed nylon, the tool allows for rapid mold production to address this need efficiently. +description: Create a tool for interacting with high contact areas such as door handles, pin pads, and light switches so your hands don't have to... helping prevent Covid-19 contamination spread! +Made from 3D printed nylon for a quick turnaround of moulds to address the problem as soon as possible. tags: ["LDPE","mould","product","injection"] category: Moulds difficulty: Medium time: < 1 week -keywords: No Touch Tool, 3D-Printed Nylon, Injection Molding, Covid-19 Safety, Touch-Free Solutions, High-Touch Surfaces, Nylon Molds, Ultimaker 3D Printer, LDPE Plastic, Mold Clamping Techniques +keywords: location: Lancaster, United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland (the) --- # No Touch Tool with 3D printed mould ![No Touch Tool with 3D printed mould](20200610_130653-18391d2f2f8-18391d426ff.png) -Develop a tool for engaging with frequently touched surfaces like door handles, pin pads, and light switches, reducing direct hand contact. This aids in minimizing the spread of Covid-19. Constructed from 3D-printed nylon, the tool allows for rapid mold production to address this need efficiently. +Create a tool for interacting with high contact areas such as door handles, pin pads, and light switches so your hands don't have to... helping prevent Covid-19 contamination spread! +Made from 3D printed nylon for a quick turnaround of moulds to address the problem as soon as possible. User Location: Lancaster, United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland (the) ## Steps ### Step 1: Make or buy the mould -Nylon was chosen for the mold due to its higher melting temperature compared to LDPE, used for making the No Touch Tools. Employing 3D-printed molds ensures minimal plastic usage, in contrast to CNC-machined polycarbonate sheets. While metal molds are preferable for durability and quality, they are more costly and environmentally impactful. The nylon molds have endured over 100 injections with minimal wear and offer a cost-effective alternative to metal molds. +Nylon was used for the mould as it's melting temperature is much higher than that of LDPE which we use to make the No Touch Tools. We are conscious of consuming virgin plastic but using 3D printed moulds means we're only using the exact amount of plastic required (opposed to CNC Machining sheets of polycarbonate for example). Although metal moulds are ideal for longevity and quality, they do come with a higher carbon footprint and cost. The nylon moulds have so far had over 100 injections with little wear and are holding up very well for a fraction of the cost of a metal mould. -The molds were printed using an Ultimaker 3D printer. +We printed the moulds using an Ultimaker 3 3D printer. ![3D printing.jpg](./3D_printing.jpg) @@ -29,18 +31,17 @@ The molds were printed using an Ultimaker 3D printer. ### Step 2: Make a clamp for the mould -### Metal Mould Setup Tutorial - -For even pressure and heat dissipation, we placed metal plates (0.39 inches) on either side of the mold. Alternatively, consider designing bolt slots in the mold halves for direct clamping. - -Initially, we used through-bolts, which proved impractical. We switched to 0.39-inch steel plates clamped together with M10 bolts (0.39 inches). This improvement allows for easy mold removal and separation of parts, enhancing efficiency. +We used plates of metal either side of the mould to apply an even pressure but also wick away some of the heat. You could design bolt slots in the mould halves to clamp them directly. +Initially our moulds had through-bolts which was of course silly and we quickly moved to a significant 10mm steel plate either side of the mould clamped together with M10 bolts. This setup becomes really slick as you can slide the moulds out of the clamp easily, separate the part and slot it back together when complete. ![IMG_5240.jpg](./IMG_5240.jpg) ### Step 3: Inject into the mould -We use LDPE from wheel nut indicators, noted for their vibrant color and quality. Injection temperature ranges between 160-170°C (320-338°F). For each tool, 40g (1.41 oz) of plastic is placed in the injection molder. Initial leakage ensures proper flow and excess plastic ensures the mold is completely filled. The injection is performed manually and slowly, maintaining pressure once the mold is filled, as indicated by overflow. The use of nylon molds insulates the plastic, preventing rapid cooling, thus requiring sustained pressure post-injection. +We use LDPE sourced from wheel nut indicators (Checkpoints) which is vibrantly coloured and very nice quality to work with. It injects nicely between 160-170*C. +For each tool we put 40g of plastic into the injection moulder - accounting for some leakage at the beginning to ensure the plastic is flowing nicely and over-spill at the end to ensure the mould is 100% filled. +We inject the plastic relatively slowly by hand and hold the pressure once the mould is filled (indicated by when it overflows at the top). Using nylon moulds means that the injected plastic is insulated so it doesn't cool quickly so wants to escape if you don't hold the pressure after injecting. ![Filling injector.jpg](./Filling_injector.jpg) @@ -50,9 +51,12 @@ We use LDPE from wheel nut indicators, noted for their vibrant color and quality ### Step 4: Leave to cool and separate -After injection, keep the molds clamped for 3 minutes to cool before removing the No Touch Tool. Removing the part too early may cause deformation. Do not exceed 6 minutes, as excessive shrinkage can hinder release. +After injecting, leave the moulds clamped to cool for 3 minutes before releasing the No Touch Tool from the mould. If you take out the part too early, it may be soft and you risk deforming it. +Equally, don't leave it in longer than 6 minutes as the shrinkage may cause it to hug the sides which makes it much harder to release! -Unclamp the mold, carefully peel out the part, and allow molds to cool. A fan can accelerate this process. Using multiple molds and clamps allows for efficient cycle times, enabling new injections while previous ones cool. +Unclamp the mould, peel the part from the mould and leave the moulds to cool (being a plastic mould, it keeps warm for longer which can cause issues over multiple injections). A fan can help this process. + +Using multiple moulds and clamps here enables you to get quick cycle times - you can be injecting the next tools whilst the previous ones cool for example. ![20200610_130653.jpg](./20200610_130653.jpg) @@ -62,7 +66,10 @@ Unclamp the mold, carefully peel out the part, and allow molds to cool. A fan ca ### Step 5: Finishing -Use a sharp knife to remove the sprue and any flashing. Drill a hole at the bottom for a keyring. Attach a retractable lanyard to keep the tool accessible while minimizing contamination risk. +Cut away the sprue using a sharp knife. +Cut away any flashing that may have occurred. +Drill a hole for a keyring in the bottom. +Attach a retractable lanyard which helps keep the tool keep out of pockets and reduce contamination risk but remains close to hand. ![20200723_141726.jpg](./20200723_141726.jpg) @@ -75,7 +82,9 @@ Use a sharp knife to remove the sprue and any flashing. Drill a hole at the bott ### Step 6: Finished! -Utilize tools to avoid direct contact with high-touch surfaces. Stay safe. +Keep your hands away from high-contact surfaces and use the tool instead! + +Stay safe out there. ![ntt-white-bkgd.png](./ntt-white-bkgd.png) @@ -88,11 +97,15 @@ Utilize tools to avoid direct contact with high-touch surfaces. Stay safe. ### Step 7: Bonus: Speed up the process -To enhance efficiency or reduce tool costs, consider these methods: +To meet demand or lower the price point of the tools, there are a number of ways you can speed up the process: -1. Pre-heat plastic before injection using an oven rather than an extruder. -2. Use multiple molds to allow some products to cool while injecting others. -3. Load the injector with multiple doses, such as 1.4 oz (40 g), for successive injections. +1. Heat the plastic before putting into the injector like Qi-Tech + +You can also use an oven to pre-heat the shreds rather than an extruder. +2. Use multiple moulds. +This enables you to have some products cooling whilst you inject others. +3. Fill the injection tube for multiple shots. +If you can load your injector with multiple 40g shots of plastic, this will enable you to inject multiple shots at a time. ![background.jpg](./background.jpg) @@ -101,63 +114,4 @@ To enhance efficiency or reduce tool costs, consider these methods: ![no-touch-tool-18391d343bd.jpg](./no-touch-tool-18391d343bd.jpg) ## Resources -### Tools Constructed - -- 3D-printed nylon molds ([Ultimaker 3D Printer](https://ultimaker.com)) -- Metal plates (0.39-inch thickness) -- M10 bolts and clamps for mold pressure -- Sharp knife for trimming sprue/flashing -- Drill for keyring hole attachment - -### Materials & Consumables - -- Nylon filament for mold creation -- LDPE plastic (sourced from wheel nut indicators) -- 40g LDPE per tool injection cycle -- Retractable lanyard for hygiene -- Sprue/flashing waste material - -### Software - -- Ultimaker Cura (slicing software for 3D printing) -- CAD software for mold design - -### Hardware - -- Ultimaker 3D Printer ([Product page](https://ultimaker.com)) -- Manual injection molder -- Metal plates (0.39-inch steel) -- Bolt clamps for mold assembly -- Oven for LDPE pre-heating (alternative to extruder) -## References -**Articles** - -1. [3D-printed contact-free devices designed and dispatched against COVID-19](https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC7318987/) -2. [Makers 3D Printing and Sewing Gear to Help Fight Coronavirus](https://time.com/5811091/makers-3d-printing-coronavirus/) -3. [Slow spread of coronavirus by 3D printing a hands-free door handle](https://www.designboom.com/design/materialise-coronavirus-door-handle-opener-3d-print-03-23-2020/) -4. ~~[Hands-free door handle developed to prevent coronavirus spread](https://www.dezeen.com/2020/03/25/hands-free-door-handle-coronavirus-ivo-tedbury-freddie-hong/)~~ -5. [How to Use 3D Printing for Injection Molding](https://formlabs.com/blog/3d-printing-for-injection-molding/) -6. [3D Printed Nylon 12: Shaping the Landscape of Manufacturing](https://rapidmade.com/3d-printed-nylon-12-shaping-the-landscape-of-digital-manufacturing/) - -**Books** - -1. [Injection Mold Design Handbook (Lowry's Books)](https://www.lowrysbooks.com/book/9781569908150) -2. [Injection Mold Design Handbook (WORD Bookstore)](https://wordbookstores.com/book/9781569908150) -3. [Injection Mold Design Handbook (Prairie Lights Books)](https://www.prairielightsbooks.com/book/9781569908150) - -**Papers** - -1. [Three-dimensional-printed molds and materials for injection molding](https://www.cambridge.org/core/journals/mrs-communications/article/threedimensionalprinted-molds-and-materials-for-injection-molding-and-rapid-tooling-applications/1065980AF393B1E9823747800FE8F8FA) - -**Youtube** - -1. [Injection molding setup and run](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cuF3gjvoSKU) -2. [How to 3D Print Custom Tool Organizers](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kXay9wYWsGs) -3. [PLASTIC INJECTION MOLD SETUP](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V9msuhMjfKY) - -**Opensource Designs** - -1. [3D Printing a Mold for a Slipcasting Mold](https://www.instructables.com/3D-Printing-a-Mold-for-a-Mold/) -2. [Open Sourced Medical Designs (Facebook Group)](https://time.com/5811091/makers-3d-printing-coronavirus/) -3. [Materialise’s 3D-printed hands-free door opener](https://www.designboom.com/design/materialise-coronavirus-door-handle-opener-3d-print-03-23-2020/) -4. ~~[Hands-Free Architecture door handle design](https://www.dezeen.com/2020/03/25/hands-free-door-handle-coronavirus-ivo-tedbury-freddie-hong/)~~ \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/no-touch-tool-with-3d-printed-mould/config.json b/howtos/no-touch-tool-with-3d-printed-mould/config.json index c58bd8128..ae21e9b70 100644 --- a/howtos/no-touch-tool-with-3d-printed-mould/config.json +++ b/howtos/no-touch-tool-with-3d-printed-mould/config.json @@ -53,11 +53,11 @@ "creatorCountry": "gb", "id": "GorLCaIm8dTUKRXCqTvT", "_createdBy": "martin-ppl-uk", - "description": "Develop a tool for engaging with frequently touched surfaces like door handles, pin pads, and light switches, reducing direct hand contact. This aids in minimizing the spread of Covid-19. Constructed from 3D-printed nylon, the tool allows for rapid mold production to address this need efficiently.", + "description": "Create a tool for interacting with high contact areas such as door handles, pin pads, and light switches so your hands don't have to... helping prevent Covid-19 contamination spread!\nMade from 3D printed nylon for a quick turnaround of moulds to address the problem as soon as possible.", "steps": [ { "_animationKey": "unique1", - "text": "Nylon was chosen for the mold due to its higher melting temperature compared to LDPE, used for making the No Touch Tools. Employing 3D-printed molds ensures minimal plastic usage, in contrast to CNC-machined polycarbonate sheets. While metal molds are preferable for durability and quality, they are more costly and environmentally impactful. The nylon molds have endured over 100 injections with minimal wear and offer a cost-effective alternative to metal molds.\n\nThe molds were printed using an Ultimaker 3D printer.", + "text": "Nylon was used for the mould as it's melting temperature is much higher than that of LDPE which we use to make the No Touch Tools. We are conscious of consuming virgin plastic but using 3D printed moulds means we're only using the exact amount of plastic required (opposed to CNC Machining sheets of polycarbonate for example). Although metal moulds are ideal for longevity and quality, they do come with a higher carbon footprint and cost. The nylon moulds have so far had over 100 injections with little wear and are holding up very well for a fraction of the cost of a metal mould. \n\nWe printed the moulds using an Ultimaker 3 3D printer.", "images": [ { "downloadUrl": "https://firebasestorage.googleapis.com/v0/b/onearmyworld.appspot.com/o/uploads%2Fhowtos%2FGorLCaIm8dTUKRXCqTvT%2F3D%20printing.jpg?alt=media&token=5f039aac-4e02-4849-89da-80e20cef6cac", @@ -103,10 +103,10 @@ } ], "title": "Make a clamp for the mould ", - "text": "### Metal Mould Setup Tutorial\n\nFor even pressure and heat dissipation, we placed metal plates (0.39 inches) on either side of the mold. Alternatively, consider designing bolt slots in the mold halves for direct clamping.\n\nInitially, we used through-bolts, which proved impractical. We switched to 0.39-inch steel plates clamped together with M10 bolts (0.39 inches). This improvement allows for easy mold removal and separation of parts, enhancing efficiency." + "text": "We used plates of metal either side of the mould to apply an even pressure but also wick away some of the heat. You could design bolt slots in the mould halves to clamp them directly. \nInitially our moulds had through-bolts which was of course silly and we quickly moved to a significant 10mm steel plate either side of the mould clamped together with M10 bolts. This setup becomes really slick as you can slide the moulds out of the clamp easily, separate the part and slot it back together when complete. " }, { - "text": "We use LDPE from wheel nut indicators, noted for their vibrant color and quality. Injection temperature ranges between 160-170°C (320-338°F). For each tool, 40g (1.41 oz) of plastic is placed in the injection molder. Initial leakage ensures proper flow and excess plastic ensures the mold is completely filled. The injection is performed manually and slowly, maintaining pressure once the mold is filled, as indicated by overflow. The use of nylon molds insulates the plastic, preventing rapid cooling, thus requiring sustained pressure post-injection.", + "text": "We use LDPE sourced from wheel nut indicators (Checkpoints) which is vibrantly coloured and very nice quality to work with. It injects nicely between 160-170*C. \nFor each tool we put 40g of plastic into the injection moulder - accounting for some leakage at the beginning to ensure the plastic is flowing nicely and over-spill at the end to ensure the mould is 100% filled. \nWe inject the plastic relatively slowly by hand and hold the pressure once the mould is filled (indicated by when it overflows at the top). Using nylon moulds means that the injected plastic is insulated so it doesn't cool quickly so wants to escape if you don't hold the pressure after injecting. ", "_animationKey": "unique3", "images": [ { @@ -165,7 +165,7 @@ } ], "title": "Leave to cool and separate", - "text": "After injection, keep the molds clamped for 3 minutes to cool before removing the No Touch Tool. Removing the part too early may cause deformation. Do not exceed 6 minutes, as excessive shrinkage can hinder release.\n\nUnclamp the mold, carefully peel out the part, and allow molds to cool. A fan can accelerate this process. Using multiple molds and clamps allows for efficient cycle times, enabling new injections while previous ones cool." + "text": "After injecting, leave the moulds clamped to cool for 3 minutes before releasing the No Touch Tool from the mould. If you take out the part too early, it may be soft and you risk deforming it. \nEqually, don't leave it in longer than 6 minutes as the shrinkage may cause it to hug the sides which makes it much harder to release! \n\nUnclamp the mould, peel the part from the mould and leave the moulds to cool (being a plastic mould, it keeps warm for longer which can cause issues over multiple injections). A fan can help this process. \n\nUsing multiple moulds and clamps here enables you to get quick cycle times - you can be injecting the next tools whilst the previous ones cool for example. " }, { "images": [ @@ -206,12 +206,12 @@ "alt": "20200723_141918.jpg" } ], - "text": "Use a sharp knife to remove the sprue and any flashing. Drill a hole at the bottom for a keyring. Attach a retractable lanyard to keep the tool accessible while minimizing contamination risk.", + "text": "Cut away the sprue using a sharp knife.\nCut away any flashing that may have occurred.\nDrill a hole for a keyring in the bottom. \nAttach a retractable lanyard which helps keep the tool keep out of pockets and reduce contamination risk but remains close to hand. ", "_animationKey": "uniqueyh4awo", "title": "Finishing" }, { - "text": "Utilize tools to avoid direct contact with high-touch surfaces. Stay safe.", + "text": "Keep your hands away from high-contact surfaces and use the tool instead!\n\nStay safe out there. ", "title": "Finished! ", "_animationKey": "uniqueba3x4e", "images": [ @@ -281,7 +281,7 @@ "alt": "no-touch-tool-18391d343bd.jpg" } ], - "text": "To enhance efficiency or reduce tool costs, consider these methods:\n\n1. Pre-heat plastic before injection using an oven rather than an extruder.\n2. Use multiple molds to allow some products to cool while injecting others.\n3. Load the injector with multiple doses, such as 1.4 oz (40 g), for successive injections.", + "text": "To meet demand or lower the price point of the tools, there are a number of ways you can speed up the process:\n\n1. Heat the plastic before putting into the injector like Qi-Tech \n\nYou can also use an oven to pre-heat the shreds rather than an extruder. \n2. Use multiple moulds.\nThis enables you to have some products cooling whilst you inject others. \n3. Fill the injection tube for multiple shots. \nIf you can load your injector with multiple 40g shots of plastic, this will enable you to inject multiple shots at a time. ", "_animationKey": "uniquerqa8x8" } ], @@ -479,9 +479,5 @@ "images": [] } }, - "content": "Develop a tool for engaging with frequently touched surfaces like door handles, pin pads, and light switches, reducing direct hand contact. This aids in minimizing the spread of Covid-19. Constructed from 3D-printed nylon, the tool allows for rapid mold production to address this need efficiently.\n\n\nUser Location: Lancaster, United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland (the)\n\nNylon was chosen for the mold due to its higher melting temperature compared to LDPE, used for making the No Touch Tools. Employing 3D-printed molds ensures minimal plastic usage, in contrast to CNC-machined polycarbonate sheets. While metal molds are preferable for durability and quality, they are more costly and environmentally impactful. The nylon molds have endured over 100 injections with minimal wear and offer a cost-effective alternative to metal molds.\n\nThe molds were printed using an Ultimaker 3D printer.\n\n### Metal Mould Setup Tutorial\n\nFor even pressure and heat dissipation, we placed metal plates (0.39 inches) on either side of the mold. Alternatively, consider designing bolt slots in the mold halves for direct clamping.\n\nInitially, we used through-bolts, which proved impractical. We switched to 0.39-inch steel plates clamped together with M10 bolts (0.39 inches). This improvement allows for easy mold removal and separation of parts, enhancing efficiency.\n\nWe use LDPE from wheel nut indicators, noted for their vibrant color and quality. Injection temperature ranges between 160-170°C (320-338°F). For each tool, 40g (1.41 oz) of plastic is placed in the injection molder. Initial leakage ensures proper flow and excess plastic ensures the mold is completely filled. The injection is performed manually and slowly, maintaining pressure once the mold is filled, as indicated by overflow. The use of nylon molds insulates the plastic, preventing rapid cooling, thus requiring sustained pressure post-injection.\n\nAfter injection, keep the molds clamped for 3 minutes to cool before removing the No Touch Tool. Removing the part too early may cause deformation. Do not exceed 6 minutes, as excessive shrinkage can hinder release.\n\nUnclamp the mold, carefully peel out the part, and allow molds to cool. A fan can accelerate this process. Using multiple molds and clamps allows for efficient cycle times, enabling new injections while previous ones cool.\n\nUse a sharp knife to remove the sprue and any flashing. Drill a hole at the bottom for a keyring. Attach a retractable lanyard to keep the tool accessible while minimizing contamination risk.\n\nUtilize tools to avoid direct contact with high-touch surfaces. Stay safe.\n\nTo enhance efficiency or reduce tool costs, consider these methods:\n\n1. Pre-heat plastic before injection using an oven rather than an extruder.\n2. Use multiple molds to allow some products to cool while injecting others.\n3. Load the injector with multiple doses, such as 1.4 oz (40 g), for successive injections.", - "keywords": "No Touch Tool, 3D-Printed Nylon, Injection Molding, Covid-19 Safety, Touch-Free Solutions, High-Touch Surfaces, Nylon Molds, Ultimaker 3D Printer, LDPE Plastic, Mold Clamping Techniques", - "resources": "### Tools Constructed\n\n- 3D-printed nylon molds ([Ultimaker 3D Printer](https://ultimaker.com))\n- Metal plates (0.39-inch thickness)\n- M10 bolts and clamps for mold pressure\n- Sharp knife for trimming sprue/flashing\n- Drill for keyring hole attachment\n\n### Materials & Consumables\n\n- Nylon filament for mold creation\n- LDPE plastic (sourced from wheel nut indicators)\n- 40g LDPE per tool injection cycle\n- Retractable lanyard for hygiene\n- Sprue/flashing waste material\n\n### Software\n\n- Ultimaker Cura (slicing software for 3D printing)\n- CAD software for mold design\n\n### Hardware\n\n- Ultimaker 3D Printer ([Product page](https://ultimaker.com))\n- Manual injection molder\n- Metal plates (0.39-inch steel)\n- Bolt clamps for mold assembly\n- Oven for LDPE pre-heating (alternative to extruder)", - "references": "**Articles**\n\n1. [3D-printed contact-free devices designed and dispatched against COVID-19](https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC7318987/)\n2. [Makers 3D Printing and Sewing Gear to Help Fight Coronavirus](https://time.com/5811091/makers-3d-printing-coronavirus/)\n3. [Slow spread of coronavirus by 3D printing a hands-free door handle](https://www.designboom.com/design/materialise-coronavirus-door-handle-opener-3d-print-03-23-2020/)\n4. ~~[Hands-free door handle developed to prevent coronavirus spread](https://www.dezeen.com/2020/03/25/hands-free-door-handle-coronavirus-ivo-tedbury-freddie-hong/)~~\n5. [How to Use 3D Printing for Injection Molding](https://formlabs.com/blog/3d-printing-for-injection-molding/)\n6. [3D Printed Nylon 12: Shaping the Landscape of Manufacturing](https://rapidmade.com/3d-printed-nylon-12-shaping-the-landscape-of-digital-manufacturing/)\n\n**Books**\n\n1. [Injection Mold Design Handbook (Lowry's Books)](https://www.lowrysbooks.com/book/9781569908150)\n2. [Injection Mold Design Handbook (WORD Bookstore)](https://wordbookstores.com/book/9781569908150)\n3. [Injection Mold Design Handbook (Prairie Lights Books)](https://www.prairielightsbooks.com/book/9781569908150)\n\n**Papers**\n\n1. [Three-dimensional-printed molds and materials for injection molding](https://www.cambridge.org/core/journals/mrs-communications/article/threedimensionalprinted-molds-and-materials-for-injection-molding-and-rapid-tooling-applications/1065980AF393B1E9823747800FE8F8FA)\n\n**Youtube**\n\n1. [Injection molding setup and run](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cuF3gjvoSKU)\n2. [How to 3D Print Custom Tool Organizers](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kXay9wYWsGs)\n3. [PLASTIC INJECTION MOLD SETUP](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V9msuhMjfKY)\n\n**Opensource Designs**\n\n1. [3D Printing a Mold for a Slipcasting Mold](https://www.instructables.com/3D-Printing-a-Mold-for-a-Mold/)\n2. [Open Sourced Medical Designs (Facebook Group)](https://time.com/5811091/makers-3d-printing-coronavirus/)\n3. [Materialise’s 3D-printed hands-free door opener](https://www.designboom.com/design/materialise-coronavirus-door-handle-opener-3d-print-03-23-2020/)\n4. ~~[Hands-Free Architecture door handle design](https://www.dezeen.com/2020/03/25/hands-free-door-handle-coronavirus-ivo-tedbury-freddie-hong/)~~", - "brief": "Innovative 3D-printed tool minimizes direct hand contact with surfaces, reducing Covid-19 spread. Cost-effective nylon molds ensure efficiency and durability." + "content": "Create a tool for interacting with high contact areas such as door handles, pin pads, and light switches so your hands don't have to... helping prevent Covid-19 contamination spread!\nMade from 3D printed nylon for a quick turnaround of moulds to address the problem as soon as possible.\n\n\nUser Location: Lancaster, United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland (the)\n\nNylon was used for the mould as it's melting temperature is much higher than that of LDPE which we use to make the No Touch Tools. We are conscious of consuming virgin plastic but using 3D printed moulds means we're only using the exact amount of plastic required (opposed to CNC Machining sheets of polycarbonate for example). Although metal moulds are ideal for longevity and quality, they do come with a higher carbon footprint and cost. The nylon moulds have so far had over 100 injections with little wear and are holding up very well for a fraction of the cost of a metal mould. \n\nWe printed the moulds using an Ultimaker 3 3D printer.\n\nWe used plates of metal either side of the mould to apply an even pressure but also wick away some of the heat. You could design bolt slots in the mould halves to clamp them directly. \nInitially our moulds had through-bolts which was of course silly and we quickly moved to a significant 10mm steel plate either side of the mould clamped together with M10 bolts. This setup becomes really slick as you can slide the moulds out of the clamp easily, separate the part and slot it back together when complete. \n\nWe use LDPE sourced from wheel nut indicators (Checkpoints) which is vibrantly coloured and very nice quality to work with. It injects nicely between 160-170*C. \nFor each tool we put 40g of plastic into the injection moulder - accounting for some leakage at the beginning to ensure the plastic is flowing nicely and over-spill at the end to ensure the mould is 100% filled. \nWe inject the plastic relatively slowly by hand and hold the pressure once the mould is filled (indicated by when it overflows at the top). Using nylon moulds means that the injected plastic is insulated so it doesn't cool quickly so wants to escape if you don't hold the pressure after injecting. \n\nAfter injecting, leave the moulds clamped to cool for 3 minutes before releasing the No Touch Tool from the mould. If you take out the part too early, it may be soft and you risk deforming it. \nEqually, don't leave it in longer than 6 minutes as the shrinkage may cause it to hug the sides which makes it much harder to release! \n\nUnclamp the mould, peel the part from the mould and leave the moulds to cool (being a plastic mould, it keeps warm for longer which can cause issues over multiple injections). A fan can help this process. \n\nUsing multiple moulds and clamps here enables you to get quick cycle times - you can be injecting the next tools whilst the previous ones cool for example. \n\nCut away the sprue using a sharp knife.\nCut away any flashing that may have occurred.\nDrill a hole for a keyring in the bottom. \nAttach a retractable lanyard which helps keep the tool keep out of pockets and reduce contamination risk but remains close to hand. \n\nKeep your hands away from high-contact surfaces and use the tool instead!\n\nStay safe out there. \n\nTo meet demand or lower the price point of the tools, there are a number of ways you can speed up the process:\n\n1. Heat the plastic before putting into the injector like Qi-Tech \n\nYou can also use an oven to pre-heat the shreds rather than an extruder. \n2. Use multiple moulds.\nThis enables you to have some products cooling whilst you inject others. \n3. Fill the injection tube for multiple shots. \nIf you can load your injector with multiple 40g shots of plastic, this will enable you to inject multiple shots at a time. " } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/nps_air-press-injector-v1/README.md b/howtos/nps_air-press-injector-v1/README.md index 1409ca2b0..89648db60 100644 --- a/howtos/nps_air-press-injector-v1/README.md +++ b/howtos/nps_air-press-injector-v1/README.md @@ -1,73 +1,73 @@ --- title: NPS_Air press injector-v1 slug: nps_air-press-injector-v1 -description: Since 2016, NoPlasticSunday has been developing machinery for plastic processing in Korea. In April 2022, we released the Air Press Injector v1 designs and manuals for free. +description: +Since 2016, NoPlasticSunday has been researching and developing machinery and equipment for plastic recycling using Precious Plastic in Korea. In April 2022, we open-sourced our drawings and manuals of the Air press injector v1 for free. -Contributors: -- PRAG Manufacture Team: Lee Cohni, Choi Hyeontaek, Jin Yonghun -- PRAG Brand Team: Cho Minjung, Kim Sanga, Seo Junhee -Project Roles: -- Direction: Cohni, Minjung -- Machine Development: Cohni, Hyeontaek, Yonghun -- Drawing Creation: Yonghun -- Poster Design: Sanga -- Content Editing: Junhee -- Translation: Junhee (English), Sanga (Japanese) +✳︎ Contributors ✳︎ +PRAG manufacture team | Lee Cohni, Choi Hyeontaek, Jin Yonghun +PRAG brand team | Cho Minjung, Kim Sanga, Seo Junhee -Air Press Injector Open Source by NoPlasticSunday® +Project Direction. Cohni, Minjung | Machine development. Cohni, Hyeontaek, Yonghun | Drawing creation. Yonghun | Poster design. Sanga | Contents edit. Junhee | Translation. (ENG)Junhee, (JP)Sanga + +Air press injector OPEN SOURCE By NoPlasticSunday® tags: ["injection"] category: Machines difficulty: Hard time: 1+ months -keywords: NoPlasticSunday, plastic processing machinery, Air Press Injector v1, open-source design, machine development Korea, recycling system, plastic waste solutions, collaborative problem-solving, DIY plastic recycling, sustainability initiatives +keywords: location: Seoul, Korea (the Republic of) --- # NPS_Air press injector-v1 ![NPS_Air press injector-v1](NPS_-185ee3802d9.jpg) -Since 2016, NoPlasticSunday has been developing machinery for plastic processing in Korea. In April 2022, we released the Air Press Injector v1 designs and manuals for free. -Contributors: -- PRAG Manufacture Team: Lee Cohni, Choi Hyeontaek, Jin Yonghun -- PRAG Brand Team: Cho Minjung, Kim Sanga, Seo Junhee +Since 2016, NoPlasticSunday has been researching and developing machinery and equipment for plastic recycling using Precious Plastic in Korea. In April 2022, we open-sourced our drawings and manuals of the Air press injector v1 for free. -Project Roles: -- Direction: Cohni, Minjung -- Machine Development: Cohni, Hyeontaek, Yonghun -- Drawing Creation: Yonghun -- Poster Design: Sanga -- Content Editing: Junhee -- Translation: Junhee (English), Sanga (Japanese) -Air Press Injector Open Source by NoPlasticSunday® +✳︎ Contributors ✳︎ +PRAG manufacture team | Lee Cohni, Choi Hyeontaek, Jin Yonghun +PRAG brand team | Cho Minjung, Kim Sanga, Seo Junhee + +Project Direction. Cohni, Minjung | Machine development. Cohni, Hyeontaek, Yonghun | Drawing creation. Yonghun | Poster design. Sanga | Contents edit. Junhee | Translation. (ENG)Junhee, (JP)Sanga + +Air press injector OPEN SOURCE By NoPlasticSunday® User Location: Seoul, Korea (the Republic of) ## Steps ### Step 1: Download Files -First, click on the download link above to access the machine files. Available PDFs are in Korean, English, and Japanese, containing explanations and mechanical drawings. +First, Click on the download link above to get the files for this machine! +We provide PDFs in 3 languages: Korean, English, and Japanese. +The PDF file contains explanations and mechanical drawings of the machine. ![newlogo_Mockup_stack-of-paper2-185ee4316d8.png](./newlogo_Mockup_stack-of-paper2-185ee4316d8.png) ### Step 2: Let's Make together! -## Air Press Injector v1: Construction Guide +Follow the drawings and build your own Air Press Injector v1. -Build your own Air Press Injector v1 by following the provided drawings. Use and share this open-source design freely. Any enhancements to the design are encouraged. +Please feel free use it and share it with others. Any attempts that improves this open source design in any ways are welcome! -We invite you to share your experiences. What challenges did you encounter during construction, and how did you address them? If you have innovative ideas to enhance functionality, please share your results and methods. Collaborative problem-solving can simplify obstacles. +Please share back your experience! + +What were the difficulties you faced while building the machine, and how could you solve it? +Did you come up with better ideas for plastic recycling? +Please share your results and process. Problems become easier when you share them with each other. ![NPS-people-3-185ec9eedc7.jpg](./NPS-people-3-185ec9eedc7.jpg) ### Step 3: Run and Share! -Have you completed building the machines? +Finally! Have you finished building the machines? -Please consult the Air Press Injection Machine manual for setup and operational instructions. +Please refer to our Air press injection machine manual to get some information about setup and run the machine. -Plastics offer convenience but can also become a threat. Let's work together to build an efficient recycling system. +We hope for more people to join us on the [filtered] movement through open sourcing this plastic recycling technology. Plastics that make our lives convenient but it can quickly became threat to life on earth. + +Let's build a sustainable plastic recycling system. ![4-185ec9e0dc5.jpg](./4-185ec9e0dc5.jpg) @@ -79,64 +79,4 @@ Plastics offer convenience but can also become a threat. Let's work together to ![NPS_jordan_carabiner_portfolio-185ee44acc7.jpg](./NPS_jordan_carabiner_portfolio-185ee44acc7.jpg) ## Resources -### Tools - -- Basic machining tools (drills, saws, clamps) -- Metalworking equipment (welder, grinder) -- Measurement tools (calipers, rulers) -- Pneumatic system components (air compressor, hoses) -- Fastening hardware (screws, bolts, nuts) - -### Software - -- PDF viewer ~~[Download Link](*)~~ (Korean/English/Japanese manuals)[1] -- CAD software (for viewing/modifying mechanical drawings)* -- Translation tools (optional for multilingual collaboration)* -- Document editing software (for content adaptation)* - -**Specific software not explicitly stated; recommended based on project needs* - -### Hardware - -- Structural metal frames (aluminum/steel) -- Injection molding components (nozzles, heating elements) -- Pneumatic valves and actuators -- Pressure regulation systems -- Safety interlocks/switches - -### Collaboration Tools - -- NoPlasticSunday® forum/community platform* -- File-sharing service (for design updates)* -- Version control system (for iterative improvements)* - -**Implied by open-source sharing philosophy[1]* - -### Safety Equipment - -- Heat-resistant gloves -- Protective eyewear -- Respiratory masks (for microplastic handling) -- Emergency stop mechanisms -- Pressure release valves - -[1] Source: NoPlasticSunday® Air Press Injector v1 documentation -## References -## References - -### Open-source Designs - -- [NPS_Air Press Injector by NoPlasticSunday](https://partners.noplasticsunday.com/NPSblog/?bmode=view\&idx=11164797) -- [NPS_Air Press Injector Design (PDF)](https://makeityourself.org/MIY.pdf) - -### Papers - -- [Open-source 3-D printable autoinjector: Design, testing, and regulatory limitations](https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC10348544/) - -### Articles - -- [filtered] Collection Point Setup Guide - -### YouTube - -- [Mini Injection Molding Machine - JingYuan Factory Automation](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yODwM9c1srg) \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/nps_air-press-injector-v1/config.json b/howtos/nps_air-press-injector-v1/config.json index b1dcae823..5ec8b623b 100644 --- a/howtos/nps_air-press-injector-v1/config.json +++ b/howtos/nps_air-press-injector-v1/config.json @@ -51,12 +51,12 @@ "alt": "newlogo_Mockup_stack-of-paper2-185ee4316d8.png" } ], - "text": "First, click on the download link above to access the machine files. Available PDFs are in Korean, English, and Japanese, containing explanations and mechanical drawings.", + "text": "First, Click on the download link above to get the files for this machine!\nWe provide PDFs in 3 languages: Korean, English, and Japanese.\nThe PDF file contains explanations and mechanical drawings of the machine.", "title": "Download Files", "_animationKey": "unique1" }, { - "text": "## Air Press Injector v1: Construction Guide\n\nBuild your own Air Press Injector v1 by following the provided drawings. Use and share this open-source design freely. Any enhancements to the design are encouraged.\n\nWe invite you to share your experiences. What challenges did you encounter during construction, and how did you address them? If you have innovative ideas to enhance functionality, please share your results and methods. Collaborative problem-solving can simplify obstacles.", + "text": "Follow the drawings and build your own Air Press Injector v1.\n\nPlease feel free use it and share it with others. Any attempts that improves this open source design in any ways are welcome!\n\nPlease share back your experience!\n\nWhat were the difficulties you faced while building the machine, and how could you solve it?\nDid you come up with better ideas for plastic recycling? \nPlease share your results and process. Problems become easier when you share them with each other.", "title": "Let's Make together!", "_animationKey": "unique2", "images": [ @@ -76,7 +76,7 @@ }, { "title": "Run and Share!", - "text": "Have you completed building the machines?\n\nPlease consult the Air Press Injection Machine manual for setup and operational instructions.\n\nPlastics offer convenience but can also become a threat. Let's work together to build an efficient recycling system.", + "text": "Finally! Have you finished building the machines?\n\nPlease refer to our Air press injection machine manual to get some information about setup and run the machine. \n\nWe hope for more people to join us on the [filtered] movement through open sourcing this plastic recycling technology. Plastics that make our lives convenient but it can quickly became threat to life on earth. \n\nLet's build a sustainable plastic recycling system.", "images": [ { "size": 109630, @@ -137,7 +137,7 @@ ], "difficulty_level": "Hard", "slug": "nps_air-press-injector-v1", - "description": "Since 2016, NoPlasticSunday has been developing machinery for plastic processing in Korea. In April 2022, we released the Air Press Injector v1 designs and manuals for free.\n\nContributors:\n- PRAG Manufacture Team: Lee Cohni, Choi Hyeontaek, Jin Yonghun\n- PRAG Brand Team: Cho Minjung, Kim Sanga, Seo Junhee\n\nProject Roles: \n- Direction: Cohni, Minjung \n- Machine Development: Cohni, Hyeontaek, Yonghun \n- Drawing Creation: Yonghun \n- Poster Design: Sanga \n- Content Editing: Junhee \n- Translation: Junhee (English), Sanga (Japanese)\n\nAir Press Injector Open Source by NoPlasticSunday®", + "description": "\nSince 2016, NoPlasticSunday has been researching and developing machinery and equipment for plastic recycling using Precious Plastic in Korea. In April 2022, we open-sourced our drawings and manuals of the Air press injector v1 for free.\n\n\n✳︎ Contributors ✳︎\nPRAG manufacture team | Lee Cohni, Choi Hyeontaek, Jin Yonghun\nPRAG brand team | Cho Minjung, Kim Sanga, Seo Junhee\n\nProject Direction. Cohni, Minjung | Machine development. Cohni, Hyeontaek, Yonghun | Drawing creation. Yonghun | Poster design. Sanga | Contents edit. Junhee | Translation. (ENG)Junhee, (JP)Sanga\n\nAir press injector OPEN SOURCE By NoPlasticSunday®", "_id": "2rowSJVwlKxXeh5BfxOU", "votedUsefulBy": [ "johnsmith", @@ -330,9 +330,5 @@ "urls": [] } }, - "content": "Since 2016, NoPlasticSunday has been developing machinery for plastic processing in Korea. In April 2022, we released the Air Press Injector v1 designs and manuals for free.\n\nContributors:\n- PRAG Manufacture Team: Lee Cohni, Choi Hyeontaek, Jin Yonghun\n- PRAG Brand Team: Cho Minjung, Kim Sanga, Seo Junhee\n\nProject Roles: \n- Direction: Cohni, Minjung \n- Machine Development: Cohni, Hyeontaek, Yonghun \n- Drawing Creation: Yonghun \n- Poster Design: Sanga \n- Content Editing: Junhee \n- Translation: Junhee (English), Sanga (Japanese)\n\nAir Press Injector Open Source by NoPlasticSunday®\n\n\nUser Location: Seoul, Korea (the Republic of)\n\nFirst, click on the download link above to access the machine files. Available PDFs are in Korean, English, and Japanese, containing explanations and mechanical drawings.\n\n## Air Press Injector v1: Construction Guide\n\nBuild your own Air Press Injector v1 by following the provided drawings. Use and share this open-source design freely. Any enhancements to the design are encouraged.\n\nWe invite you to share your experiences. What challenges did you encounter during construction, and how did you address them? If you have innovative ideas to enhance functionality, please share your results and methods. Collaborative problem-solving can simplify obstacles.\n\nHave you completed building the machines?\n\nPlease consult the Air Press Injection Machine manual for setup and operational instructions.\n\nPlastics offer convenience but can also become a threat. Let's work together to build an efficient recycling system.", - "keywords": "NoPlasticSunday, plastic processing machinery, Air Press Injector v1, open-source design, machine development Korea, recycling system, plastic waste solutions, collaborative problem-solving, DIY plastic recycling, sustainability initiatives", - "resources": "### Tools\n\n- Basic machining tools (drills, saws, clamps)\n- Metalworking equipment (welder, grinder)\n- Measurement tools (calipers, rulers)\n- Pneumatic system components (air compressor, hoses)\n- Fastening hardware (screws, bolts, nuts)\n\n### Software\n\n- PDF viewer ~~[Download Link](*)~~ (Korean/English/Japanese manuals)[1]\n- CAD software (for viewing/modifying mechanical drawings)*\n- Translation tools (optional for multilingual collaboration)*\n- Document editing software (for content adaptation)*\n\n**Specific software not explicitly stated; recommended based on project needs*\n\n### Hardware\n\n- Structural metal frames (aluminum/steel)\n- Injection molding components (nozzles, heating elements)\n- Pneumatic valves and actuators\n- Pressure regulation systems\n- Safety interlocks/switches\n\n### Collaboration Tools\n\n- NoPlasticSunday® forum/community platform*\n- File-sharing service (for design updates)*\n- Version control system (for iterative improvements)*\n\n**Implied by open-source sharing philosophy[1]*\n\n### Safety Equipment\n\n- Heat-resistant gloves\n- Protective eyewear\n- Respiratory masks (for microplastic handling)\n- Emergency stop mechanisms\n- Pressure release valves\n\n[1] Source: NoPlasticSunday® Air Press Injector v1 documentation", - "references": "## References\n\n### Open-source Designs\n\n- [NPS_Air Press Injector by NoPlasticSunday](https://partners.noplasticsunday.com/NPSblog/?bmode=view\\&idx=11164797)\n- [NPS_Air Press Injector Design (PDF)](https://makeityourself.org/MIY.pdf)\n\n### Papers\n\n- [Open-source 3-D printable autoinjector: Design, testing, and regulatory limitations](https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC10348544/)\n\n### Articles\n\n- [filtered] Collection Point Setup Guide\n\n### YouTube\n\n- [Mini Injection Molding Machine - JingYuan Factory Automation](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yODwM9c1srg)", - "brief": "Free Air Press Injector v1 guide by NoPlasticSunday for recycling. Download open-source designs in Korean, English, and Japanese for DIY building." + "content": "\nSince 2016, NoPlasticSunday has been researching and developing machinery and equipment for plastic recycling using Precious Plastic in Korea. In April 2022, we open-sourced our drawings and manuals of the Air press injector v1 for free.\n\n\n✳︎ Contributors ✳︎\nPRAG manufacture team | Lee Cohni, Choi Hyeontaek, Jin Yonghun\nPRAG brand team | Cho Minjung, Kim Sanga, Seo Junhee\n\nProject Direction. Cohni, Minjung | Machine development. Cohni, Hyeontaek, Yonghun | Drawing creation. Yonghun | Poster design. Sanga | Contents edit. Junhee | Translation. (ENG)Junhee, (JP)Sanga\n\nAir press injector OPEN SOURCE By NoPlasticSunday®\n\n\nUser Location: Seoul, Korea (the Republic of)\n\nFirst, Click on the download link above to get the files for this machine!\nWe provide PDFs in 3 languages: Korean, English, and Japanese.\nThe PDF file contains explanations and mechanical drawings of the machine.\n\nFollow the drawings and build your own Air Press Injector v1.\n\nPlease feel free use it and share it with others. Any attempts that improves this open source design in any ways are welcome!\n\nPlease share back your experience!\n\nWhat were the difficulties you faced while building the machine, and how could you solve it?\nDid you come up with better ideas for plastic recycling? \nPlease share your results and process. Problems become easier when you share them with each other.\n\nFinally! Have you finished building the machines?\n\nPlease refer to our Air press injection machine manual to get some information about setup and run the machine. \n\nWe hope for more people to join us on the [filtered] movement through open sourcing this plastic recycling technology. Plastics that make our lives convenient but it can quickly became threat to life on earth. \n\nLet's build a sustainable plastic recycling system." } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/old-school-bookmark-mould/README.md b/howtos/old-school-bookmark-mould/README.md index 4b4a1cd9f..6b94bcae2 100644 --- a/howtos/old-school-bookmark-mould/README.md +++ b/howtos/old-school-bookmark-mould/README.md @@ -1,47 +1,53 @@ --- title: Old School Bookmark Mould slug: old-school-bookmark-mould -description: ### How to Make a Bookmark +description: Mould your own bookmark for your reading or even simply a marker for whatever it is you would like to mark or clip together with something else. Use plastic with a history on it's back, let's stop using new materials for every single item we decide to produce. Save the planet. + + -Create a bookmark or marker using repurposed plastic. Avoid the need for new materials by utilizing existing resources. tags: ["injection","PP","product"] category: Moulds difficulty: Medium time: < 1 week -keywords: bookmark making, plastic repurposing, sustainable crafting, mould making, CNC milling, aluminum moulds, plastic injection, DIY mold, Athens crafts, eco-friendly materials +keywords: location: Athens, Greece --- # Old School Bookmark Mould ![Old School Bookmark Mould](Untitled-3.png) -### How to Make a Bookmark +Mould your own bookmark for your reading or even simply a marker for whatever it is you would like to mark or clip together with something else. Use plastic with a history on it's back, let's stop using new materials for every single item we decide to produce. Save the planet. + + -Create a bookmark or marker using repurposed plastic. Avoid the need for new materials by utilizing existing resources. User Location: Athens, Greece ## Steps ### Step 1: CNC your mould -### Mould-Making Instructions -Download the files provided and either CNC-mill them or send them to a mould maker. +For mould-making, download the files above and CNC-mill it yourself or send it to a mould maker. + +you will need 10mm thick aluminium plate +the finished mould would be 10cmx15cm for each side. + -Use an aluminum plate with a thickness of 0.39 inches (10 mm). Each side of the finished mould should measure 3.94 x 5.91 inches (10 x 15 cm). ![alu drawing rendered-185fc94100a.jpg](./alu_drawing_rendered-185fc94100a.jpg) ### Step 2: Alternative: Buy The mould -We offer this mold for purchase if you are unable to produce it yourself. +We also sell this mould on [filtered] bazar in the link below if you don't have access to making the mould yourself. + + ![Screenshot_20230129_041837-185fca9563c.png](./Screenshot_20230129_041837-185fca9563c.png) ### Step 3: Time to inject -Your mold should appear as shown when ready. +Your mould should look like this when it is ready. -Given the thin object, preheat the mold to approximately 176°F (80°C) to facilitate easier injection. +Due to the thin object, preheating the mould around 80°C to make the process of injecting easier. ![Untitled-2.png](./Untitled-2.png) @@ -51,9 +57,9 @@ Given the thin object, preheat the mold to approximately 176°F (80°C) to facil ### Step 4: Inject the parts -Time to inject. The plastic should be evenly melted to spread smoothly into the mold (mould). It may flow out of the nozzle due to gravity, so use a valve to control the release, opening it just before injecting. Act quickly and maintain pressure for a few seconds to prevent sink marks as the plastic cools under pressure. +Time to inject. The plastic should be evenly molten to easily spread within the mould, so it might run out of the nozzle just because of gravity. Use a valve into the nozzle and open it right before you start injecting. Act fast and keep the pressure for a couple of seconds before lifting the lever. This will prevent sink marks as the plastic is cooling down under pressure. -After injection, open the mold (mould) promptly. Delays can make it more difficult to release the object due to plastic shrinkage. +Once injected, open the mould if you wait a lot ,because of the plastic, shrinking maybe it will be more hard to release the object! ![6849E8FE-FF60-4669-9A09-A0186CA91FC9-185fcacb193.jpeg](./6849E8FE-FF60-4669-9A09-A0186CA91FC9-185fcacb193.jpeg) @@ -65,49 +71,4 @@ After injection, open the mold (mould) promptly. Delays can make it more difficu ![0e5c791751ef05a1968036b3db99f14d-185fcacce6d.jpg](./0e5c791751ef05a1968036b3db99f14d-185fcacce6d.jpg) ## Resources -### Software - -- Mould design files [insert-link] - -### Hardware - -- CNC milling machine [insert-link] -- Aluminium plate (10mm thickness) [insert-link] -- Pre-made mould (optional purchase) [insert-link] -- Plastic injection machine with valve [insert-link] -- Heating device (for preheating to 80°C) [insert-link] - -### Tools - -- Temperature gauge/thermometer [insert-link] -- Pressure clamp or press [insert-link] -- Safety gloves (heat-resistant) [insert-link] -- Timer (for cooling/pressure phases) [insert-link] -- Valve-controlled nozzle attachment [insert-link] -## References -## Articles - -- [A Step by Step Guide to Injection Molding](https://sybridge.com/injection-molding-guide/) -- [Upcyled Plastic Bookmarks Tutorial](https://www.instructables.com/Upcyled-Plastic-Bookmarks/) -- [DIY Injection Molding Guide](https://formlabs.com/blog/diy-injection-molding/) -- [Injection Molding Process Explained](https://zetarmold.com/steps-of-injection-molding/) - -## Books - -- [Successful Injection Molding](https://www.beaumontinc.com/about/books-by-beaumont/) -- [Injection Molding Handbook](https://www.beaumontinc.com/about/books-by-beaumont/) - -## Papers - -- [Module I - Injection Moulding Process (PDF)](https://crescent.education/wp-content/uploads/2019/02/MODULE-I-Injection-Molding-Process.pdf) - -## YouTube - -- [Bookmarking with Library Search](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ndiOrwa8iho) -- [DIY Epoxy Resin Bookmarks Tutorial](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3f-j51-AdVM) -- [Resin Bookmark Crafting Guide](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vLtaFXygNCM) - -## Opensource Designs - -- Old School Bookmark Mould Design -- [DIY Injection Molding Instructions](https://www.instructables.com/DIY-Injection-Molding/) \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/old-school-bookmark-mould/config.json b/howtos/old-school-bookmark-mould/config.json index c6605b67c..caef7da3f 100644 --- a/howtos/old-school-bookmark-mould/config.json +++ b/howtos/old-school-bookmark-mould/config.json @@ -31,14 +31,14 @@ } ], "_animationKey": "unique1", - "text": "### Mould-Making Instructions\n\nDownload the files provided and either CNC-mill them or send them to a mould maker.\n\nUse an aluminum plate with a thickness of 0.39 inches (10 mm). Each side of the finished mould should measure 3.94 x 5.91 inches (10 x 15 cm).", + "text": "\nFor mould-making, download the files above and CNC-mill it yourself or send it to a mould maker.\n\nyou will need 10mm thick aluminium plate \nthe finished mould would be 10cmx15cm for each side.\n\n", "title": "CNC your mould", "caption": "" }, { "_animationKey": "uniques6aiql", "title": "Alternative: Buy The mould", - "text": "We offer this mold for purchase if you are unable to produce it yourself.", + "text": "We also sell this mould on [filtered] bazar in the link below if you don't have access to making the mould yourself.\n\n", "images": [ { "type": "image/png", @@ -83,11 +83,11 @@ } ], "_animationKey": "unique3", - "text": "Your mold should appear as shown when ready.\n\nGiven the thin object, preheat the mold to approximately 176°F (80°C) to facilitate easier injection.", + "text": "Your mould should look like this when it is ready.\n\nDue to the thin object, preheating the mould around 80°C to make the process of injecting easier. ", "caption": "" }, { - "text": "Time to inject. The plastic should be evenly melted to spread smoothly into the mold (mould). It may flow out of the nozzle due to gravity, so use a valve to control the release, opening it just before injecting. Act quickly and maintain pressure for a few seconds to prevent sink marks as the plastic cools under pressure.\n\nAfter injection, open the mold (mould) promptly. Delays can make it more difficult to release the object due to plastic shrinkage.", + "text": "Time to inject. The plastic should be evenly molten to easily spread within the mould, so it might run out of the nozzle just because of gravity. Use a valve into the nozzle and open it right before you start injecting. Act fast and keep the pressure for a couple of seconds before lifting the lever. This will prevent sink marks as the plastic is cooling down under pressure.\n\nOnce injected, open the mould if you wait a lot ,because of the plastic, shrinking maybe it will be more hard to release the object! ", "caption": "", "images": [ { @@ -161,7 +161,7 @@ "votedUsefulBy": [ "sigolene" ], - "description": "### How to Make a Bookmark\n\nCreate a bookmark or marker using repurposed plastic. Avoid the need for new materials by utilizing existing resources.", + "description": "Mould your own bookmark for your reading or even simply a marker for whatever it is you would like to mark or clip together with something else. Use plastic with a history on it's back, let's stop using new materials for every single item we decide to produce. Save the planet.\n\n\n", "tags": [ "injection", "PP", @@ -331,9 +331,5 @@ "urls": [] } }, - "content": "### How to Make a Bookmark\n\nCreate a bookmark or marker using repurposed plastic. Avoid the need for new materials by utilizing existing resources.\n\n\nUser Location: Athens, Greece\n\n### Mould-Making Instructions\n\nDownload the files provided and either CNC-mill them or send them to a mould maker.\n\nUse an aluminum plate with a thickness of 0.39 inches (10 mm). Each side of the finished mould should measure 3.94 x 5.91 inches (10 x 15 cm).\n\nWe offer this mold for purchase if you are unable to produce it yourself.\n\nYour mold should appear as shown when ready.\n\nGiven the thin object, preheat the mold to approximately 176°F (80°C) to facilitate easier injection.\n\nTime to inject. The plastic should be evenly melted to spread smoothly into the mold (mould). It may flow out of the nozzle due to gravity, so use a valve to control the release, opening it just before injecting. Act quickly and maintain pressure for a few seconds to prevent sink marks as the plastic cools under pressure.\n\nAfter injection, open the mold (mould) promptly. Delays can make it more difficult to release the object due to plastic shrinkage.", - "keywords": "bookmark making, plastic repurposing, sustainable crafting, mould making, CNC milling, aluminum moulds, plastic injection, DIY mold, Athens crafts, eco-friendly materials", - "resources": "### Software\n\n- Mould design files [insert-link]\n\n### Hardware\n\n- CNC milling machine [insert-link]\n- Aluminium plate (10mm thickness) [insert-link]\n- Pre-made mould (optional purchase) [insert-link]\n- Plastic injection machine with valve [insert-link]\n- Heating device (for preheating to 80°C) [insert-link]\n\n### Tools\n\n- Temperature gauge/thermometer [insert-link]\n- Pressure clamp or press [insert-link]\n- Safety gloves (heat-resistant) [insert-link]\n- Timer (for cooling/pressure phases) [insert-link]\n- Valve-controlled nozzle attachment [insert-link]", - "references": "## Articles\n\n- [A Step by Step Guide to Injection Molding](https://sybridge.com/injection-molding-guide/)\n- [Upcyled Plastic Bookmarks Tutorial](https://www.instructables.com/Upcyled-Plastic-Bookmarks/)\n- [DIY Injection Molding Guide](https://formlabs.com/blog/diy-injection-molding/)\n- [Injection Molding Process Explained](https://zetarmold.com/steps-of-injection-molding/)\n\n## Books\n\n- [Successful Injection Molding](https://www.beaumontinc.com/about/books-by-beaumont/)\n- [Injection Molding Handbook](https://www.beaumontinc.com/about/books-by-beaumont/)\n\n## Papers\n\n- [Module I - Injection Moulding Process (PDF)](https://crescent.education/wp-content/uploads/2019/02/MODULE-I-Injection-Molding-Process.pdf)\n\n## YouTube\n\n- [Bookmarking with Library Search](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ndiOrwa8iho)\n- [DIY Epoxy Resin Bookmarks Tutorial](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3f-j51-AdVM)\n- [Resin Bookmark Crafting Guide](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vLtaFXygNCM)\n\n## Opensource Designs\n\n- Old School Bookmark Mould Design\n- [DIY Injection Molding Instructions](https://www.instructables.com/DIY-Injection-Molding/)", - "brief": "Create bookmarks using repurposed plastic. Download mould files and either CNC-mill them or contact a mould maker. Purchase available if needed." + "content": "Mould your own bookmark for your reading or even simply a marker for whatever it is you would like to mark or clip together with something else. Use plastic with a history on it's back, let's stop using new materials for every single item we decide to produce. Save the planet.\n\n\n\n\n\nUser Location: Athens, Greece\n\n\nFor mould-making, download the files above and CNC-mill it yourself or send it to a mould maker.\n\nyou will need 10mm thick aluminium plate \nthe finished mould would be 10cmx15cm for each side.\n\n\n\nWe also sell this mould on [filtered] bazar in the link below if you don't have access to making the mould yourself.\n\n\n\nYour mould should look like this when it is ready.\n\nDue to the thin object, preheating the mould around 80°C to make the process of injecting easier. \n\nTime to inject. The plastic should be evenly molten to easily spread within the mould, so it might run out of the nozzle just because of gravity. Use a valve into the nozzle and open it right before you start injecting. Act fast and keep the pressure for a couple of seconds before lifting the lever. This will prevent sink marks as the plastic is cooling down under pressure.\n\nOnce injected, open the mould if you wait a lot ,because of the plastic, shrinking maybe it will be more hard to release the object! " } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/pet-mini---recycled-electric-skate/README.md b/howtos/pet-mini---recycled-electric-skate/README.md index 32769ecdb..b269180c5 100644 --- a/howtos/pet-mini---recycled-electric-skate/README.md +++ b/howtos/pet-mini---recycled-electric-skate/README.md @@ -1,87 +1,85 @@ --- title: PET MINI - Recycled Electric Skate slug: pet-mini---recycled-electric-skate -description: The PET MINI Skateboard is an open-source electric skateboard designed for efficient urban transportation. It aims to enhance your commuting experience by providing a swift, convenient last-mile travel solution. +description: PET MINI Skateboard is a Open Source, Recycled Electric Skateboard for urban transportation. With the goal to end stressful commutes and boost your door-to-door speed with the perfect last mile recycled vehicle. -For further inquiries or to engage with the maker community in Portugal, please contact us. +If you have any questions or would like to collaborate with the community from Portugal reach out to us! -Visit: -[www.vivalabporto.com](https://www.vivalabporto.com/) -[www.makerisland.io](https://www.makerisland.io/) +https://www.vivalabporto.com/ +https://www.makerisland.io/ tags: ["sheetpress","product","research","PP"] category: Products difficulty: Very Hard time: 3-4 weeks -keywords: electric skateboard, open source skateboard, urban transportation solution, DIY electric skateboard, participatory design, VESC speed controller, skateboard prototyping, Fab Lab Portugal, 3D printed skateboard parts, PET MINI skateboard +keywords: location: Porto, Portugal --- # PET MINI - Recycled Electric Skate ![PET MINI - Recycled Electric Skate](PET_MINI_Eskate.png) -The PET MINI Skateboard is an open-source electric skateboard designed for efficient urban transportation. It aims to enhance your commuting experience by providing a swift, convenient last-mile travel solution. +PET MINI Skateboard is a Open Source, Recycled Electric Skateboard for urban transportation. With the goal to end stressful commutes and boost your door-to-door speed with the perfect last mile recycled vehicle. -For further inquiries or to engage with the maker community in Portugal, please contact us. +If you have any questions or would like to collaborate with the community from Portugal reach out to us! -Visit: -[www.vivalabporto.com](https://www.vivalabporto.com/) -[www.makerisland.io](https://www.makerisland.io/) +https://www.vivalabporto.com/ +https://www.makerisland.io/ User Location: Porto, Portugal ## Steps ### Step 1: Story -The PET MINI (Personal Electric Transport) project highlights participatory design approaches. +PET MINI (Personal Electric Transport) was developed based on the growing importance of creating participatory approaches to design. -Utilizing Open Design, it allows for easy prototyping and global distribution while supporting local manufacturing and problem-solving. +By using the potential of Open Design we can easily prototype and distribute design's at a global scale while promoting local manufacturing and problem solving. + +We were grateful to get the recycled plastic PP sheet's from [filtered] HQ for the first prototypes, they were machined by a CNC CNC Router to obtain the skateboard deck. Mechanical parts were 3D printed to speed up prototyping phase, as the parts were manufactured at a local Fab Lab, VIVALab, so it can easily be replicated at any of the 2,000 Fab Lab's from the global network. -The initial prototypes used plastic PP sheets provided by [filtered] HQ, which were machined into skateboard decks using a CNC router. Mechanical parts were 3D printed at a local Fab Lab, VIVALab. This process can be replicated at any of the 2,000 Fab Labs worldwide. ### Step 2: Bill Of Materials (BOM) -Certainly. Here's the refined text: +There is a whole world around DIY electric skateboards, different specs and consequently several different parts you can choose from. The parts we used allow a top speed of 35 km/h and a range of 36km: ---- - -DIY electric skateboards involve various specifications and parts selection. The components listed here enable a top speed of 22 mph (35 km/h) and a range of 22 miles (36 km): - -- 1x 10s BESTECH BMS 60A Battery Pack 12s2p (10s3p) -- 1x BUNDLE HTD 5M 53 teeth Belt 10.4 inches (265mm) -- 1x Electric Skateboard Speed Controller, Open Source VESC -- 1x Eskating PRO Motors 6374 190Kv -- 2x Caliber II Trucks 50° 10 inches -- 4x Kegel 80mm Wheels -- 8x ABEC 608 Bearings -- 1x 2.4GHz Remote -- 1x 16T Motor Pulley (8mm or 10mm) -- 1x 3D Printed Wheel Gear Pulley and Motor Mount -- 1x Skateboard Hardware Set - 1 inch -- 2x 1/2 inch Rubber Riser Pads -- 1x 3 feet (1m) of 0.04 inch (1mm) Rubber Window Insulation + 1x 10s BESTECH bms 60a Battery Pack 12s2p (10s3p) + 1x BUNDLE HTD 5M 53 teeth Belt 265mm + 1x Electric Skateboard Speed Controller Open Source VESC + 1x Eskating PRO motors 6374 190Kv + 2x Caliber II Trucks 50° 10″ + 4x Kegel 80mm Wheels + 8x ABEC 608 + 1x 2.4GHz remote + 1x 16T Motor Pulley (8mm or 10mm) + 1x 3D printed Wheel gear Pulley and Motor Mount + 1x Skateboard Hardware Set - 1" + 2x 1/2" Rubber Riser Pads + 1x 1m of 1mm Rubber Window insulation ### Step 3: Sheet Press, 3D Printing & CNC -### Instructions +Start by making your 20mm sheet using the sheetpress. -1. **Create a 0.79-inch (20mm) Sheet:** - Use the sheet press. +Related links: +How to make sheets 👉 tiny.cc/run-the-sheetpress +Find sheets on the Bazar👉 bazar.preciousplastic.com -2. **3D Print Components:** - - **Armadillo Electronic Case:** - - Material: PLA - - Infill: 25-45% - - Layer Height: 0.012 inches (0.3mm) +3D print the Armadillo Electronic case, Wheel gear Pulley and Motor Mount - - **Motor Mount:** - - Material: ABS - - Infill: <45% - - Layer Height: 0.008 inches (0.2mm) +3D printing Parameters: +👉Armadillo Case: + PLA + 25% - 45% Infill + 0.3mm layer hight - - **Wheel Gear Pulley:** - - Material: PC-ABS or Carbon Fiber - - Infill: <45% - - Layer Height: 0.008 inches (0.2mm) +👉 Motor Mount: + ABS + <45% Infill + 0.2mm layer hight + +👉Wheel Gear Pulley: + PC-ABS or Carbon Fiber + <45% Infill + 0.2mm layer hight + +3D CNC Milling 20mm Plastic Sheet using the 3d model of the deck parameters will depend on the available CNC at your local Fab Lab or Makerspace. -3. **CNC Milling:** - Use the 3D model of the deck on a 0.79-inch (20mm) plastic sheet. Parameters depend on the CNC equipment at your local facility. ![PET MINI Armadillo Case.jpg](./PET_MINI_Armadillo_Case.jpg) @@ -94,22 +92,25 @@ DIY electric skateboards involve various specifications and parts selection. The ### Step 4: Electronics -This tutorial provides guidance on programming and assembling electronics. +We share with you a comprehensive tutorial to program your electronics and to assemble your electronics -**Electronics Assembly:** [YouTube Tutorial](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W5kOgzW5Jmc&list=PLkqXGkAj77a4fVV9FmcT0fqr66eJbBoh0) +👉Electronics Assembly: youtube.com: youtube.com/watch?v=W5kOgzW5Jmc&list=PLkqXGkAj77a4fVV9FmcT0fqr66eJbBoh0 ### Step 5: Have Fun!!! -After assembling all components, programming the electronics, and adding rubber insulation to the electronics case, you are ready to test your electric skateboard. +After Assembling all the different parts, programming your electronics and adding the rubber insulation to the Electronics case you are ready to test your e-skate. -If you have any questions or wish to engage with the community in Portugal, please contact us. +Ride Safe and Have Fun! 🛹♻ -Visit: -[vivalabporto.com](https://www.vivalabporto.com) -[makerisland.io](https://www.makerisland.io) +If you have any questions or would like to collaborate with the community from Portugal reach out to us! -Share your results: -@vivalabporto +vivalabporto.com: vivalabporto.com +makerisland.io: makerisland.io + +Share your results to: +@​​​​​vivalabporto +@​​​​​realpreciousplastic +#preciousplastic #vivalabporto @@ -119,43 +120,4 @@ Share your results: ![Pet Mini Viva Lab.png](./Pet_Mini_Viva_Lab.png) ## Resources -The PET MINI Skateboard project combines open-source design with local manufacturing. Below is a concise breakdown of required tools, software, and hardware, optimized for replication in facilities like Porto’s VIVALab. - -### Tools - -- Sheet press (for 20mm plastic sheet creation) -- CNC CNC Router (deck milling from PP sheets) -- 3D printer (PLA/ABS/PC-ABS parts) -- Local Fab Lab ([VIVALab](https://www.vivalabporto.com/) for 3D printing) -- CNC machining facility (global Fab Lab network) - -### Software - -- Open Source VESC (programmable speed controller) -- VESC Tool (configuration and firmware updates) -- CNC machining software (device-specific parameters) -- CAD/CAM software (deck design and toolpath generation) - -### Hardware - -- 10s BESTECH BMS 60A Battery Pack (12s2p/10s3p) [1][2] -- Eskating PRO 6374 190Kv Motors [1] -- Caliber II 50° Trucks (10-inch) [1] -- Kegel 80mm Wheels (with ABEC 608 bearings) [1] -- 3D-printed components ([VIVALab](https://www.vivalabporto.com/) or local Fab Lab) - -For community support or local collaboration in Portugal, visit [VIVALab Porto](https://www.vivalabporto.com/) or [Maker Island](https://www.makerisland.io/). -## References -## Articles - -- [vivalabporto.com](https://www.vivalabporto.com) -- [makerisland.io](https://www.makerisland.io) - -## YouTube - -- [Electronics Assembly Tutorial](https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLkqXGkAj77a4fVV9FmcT0fqr66eJbBoh0) - -## Opensource Designs - -- [PET MINI Skateboard Design Specifications](https://www.makerisland.io) -- [3D Printing and CNC Milling Instructions](https://www.vivalabporto.com) \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/pet-mini---recycled-electric-skate/config.json b/howtos/pet-mini---recycled-electric-skate/config.json index be557549f..0c5691b2f 100644 --- a/howtos/pet-mini---recycled-electric-skate/config.json +++ b/howtos/pet-mini---recycled-electric-skate/config.json @@ -38,7 +38,7 @@ ], "difficulty_level": "Very Hard", "_deleted": false, - "description": "The PET MINI Skateboard is an open-source electric skateboard designed for efficient urban transportation. It aims to enhance your commuting experience by providing a swift, convenient last-mile travel solution.\n\nFor further inquiries or to engage with the maker community in Portugal, please contact us.\n\nVisit:\n[www.vivalabporto.com](https://www.vivalabporto.com/)\n[www.makerisland.io](https://www.makerisland.io/)", + "description": "PET MINI Skateboard is a Open Source, Recycled Electric Skateboard for urban transportation. With the goal to end stressful commutes and boost your door-to-door speed with the perfect last mile recycled vehicle.\n\nIf you have any questions or would like to collaborate with the community from Portugal reach out to us! \n\nhttps://www.vivalabporto.com/\nhttps://www.makerisland.io/", "previouslyAccepted": true, "_createdBy": "viva-lab-", "moderation": "accepted", @@ -61,7 +61,7 @@ { "videoUrl": "https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3LkTukDy9-A", "title": "Story", - "text": "The PET MINI (Personal Electric Transport) project highlights participatory design approaches.\n\nUtilizing Open Design, it allows for easy prototyping and global distribution while supporting local manufacturing and problem-solving.\n\nThe initial prototypes used plastic PP sheets provided by [filtered] HQ, which were machined into skateboard decks using a CNC router. Mechanical parts were 3D printed at a local Fab Lab, VIVALab. This process can be replicated at any of the 2,000 Fab Labs worldwide.", + "text": "PET MINI (Personal Electric Transport) was developed based on the growing importance of creating participatory approaches to design.\n\nBy using the potential of Open Design we can easily prototype and distribute design's at a global scale while promoting local manufacturing and problem solving. \n\nWe were grateful to get the recycled plastic PP sheet's from [filtered] HQ for the first prototypes, they were machined by a CNC CNC Router to obtain the skateboard deck. Mechanical parts were 3D printed to speed up prototyping phase, as the parts were manufactured at a local Fab Lab, VIVALab, so it can easily be replicated at any of the 2,000 Fab Lab's from the global network.\n", "_animationKey": "unique1", "images": [] }, @@ -70,7 +70,7 @@ "videoUrl": "https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W5kOgzW5Jmc", "images": [], "title": "Bill Of Materials (BOM) ", - "text": "Certainly. Here's the refined text:\n\n---\n\nDIY electric skateboards involve various specifications and parts selection. The components listed here enable a top speed of 22 mph (35 km/h) and a range of 22 miles (36 km):\n\n- 1x 10s BESTECH BMS 60A Battery Pack 12s2p (10s3p)\n- 1x BUNDLE HTD 5M 53 teeth Belt 10.4 inches (265mm)\n- 1x Electric Skateboard Speed Controller, Open Source VESC\n- 1x Eskating PRO Motors 6374 190Kv\n- 2x Caliber II Trucks 50° 10 inches\n- 4x Kegel 80mm Wheels\n- 8x ABEC 608 Bearings\n- 1x 2.4GHz Remote\n- 1x 16T Motor Pulley (8mm or 10mm)\n- 1x 3D Printed Wheel Gear Pulley and Motor Mount\n- 1x Skateboard Hardware Set - 1 inch\n- 2x 1/2 inch Rubber Riser Pads \n- 1x 3 feet (1m) of 0.04 inch (1mm) Rubber Window Insulation" + "text": "There is a whole world around DIY electric skateboards, different specs and consequently several different parts you can choose from. The parts we used allow a top speed of 35 km/h and a range of 36km:\n\n 1x 10s BESTECH bms 60a Battery Pack 12s2p (10s3p)\n 1x BUNDLE HTD 5M 53 teeth Belt 265mm\n 1x Electric Skateboard Speed Controller Open Source VESC\n 1x Eskating PRO motors 6374 190Kv\n 2x Caliber II Trucks 50° 10″\n 4x Kegel 80mm Wheels\n 8x ABEC 608\n 1x 2.4GHz remote\n 1x 16T Motor Pulley (8mm or 10mm)\n 1x 3D printed Wheel gear Pulley and Motor Mount\n 1x Skateboard Hardware Set - 1\" \n 2x 1/2\" Rubber Riser Pads \n 1x 1m of 1mm Rubber Window insulation " }, { "images": [ @@ -112,14 +112,14 @@ } ], "title": "Sheet Press, 3D Printing & CNC", - "text": "### Instructions\n\n1. **Create a 0.79-inch (20mm) Sheet:** \n Use the sheet press.\n\n2. **3D Print Components:** \n - **Armadillo Electronic Case:** \n - Material: PLA \n - Infill: 25-45% \n - Layer Height: 0.012 inches (0.3mm) \n\n - **Motor Mount:** \n - Material: ABS \n - Infill: <45% \n - Layer Height: 0.008 inches (0.2mm) \n\n - **Wheel Gear Pulley:** \n - Material: PC-ABS or Carbon Fiber \n - Infill: <45% \n - Layer Height: 0.008 inches (0.2mm) \n\n3. **CNC Milling:** \n Use the 3D model of the deck on a 0.79-inch (20mm) plastic sheet. Parameters depend on the CNC equipment at your local facility.", + "text": "Start by making your 20mm sheet using the sheetpress.\n\nRelated links:\nHow to make sheets 👉 tiny.cc/run-the-sheetpress\nFind sheets on the Bazar👉 bazar.preciousplastic.com\n\n3D print the Armadillo Electronic case, Wheel gear Pulley and Motor Mount\n\n3D printing Parameters:\n👉Armadillo Case:\n PLA\n 25% - 45% Infill\n 0.3mm layer hight\n\n👉 Motor Mount: \n ABS\n <45% Infill\n 0.2mm layer hight\n\n👉Wheel Gear Pulley:\n PC-ABS or Carbon Fiber\n <45% Infill\n 0.2mm layer hight\n\n3D CNC Milling 20mm Plastic Sheet using the 3d model of the deck parameters will depend on the available CNC at your local Fab Lab or Makerspace.\n", "_animationKey": "unique3" }, { "_animationKey": "uniqueu0ncrj", "title": "Electronics", "images": [], - "text": "This tutorial provides guidance on programming and assembling electronics.\n\n**Electronics Assembly:** [YouTube Tutorial](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W5kOgzW5Jmc&list=PLkqXGkAj77a4fVV9FmcT0fqr66eJbBoh0)", + "text": "We share with you a comprehensive tutorial to program your electronics and to assemble your electronics\n\n👉Electronics Assembly: youtube.com: youtube.com/watch?v=W5kOgzW5Jmc&list=PLkqXGkAj77a4fVV9FmcT0fqr66eJbBoh0", "videoUrl": "https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lDuV8cnPRmI&t=649s" }, { @@ -150,7 +150,7 @@ "alt": "Pet Mini Viva Lab.png" } ], - "text": "After assembling all components, programming the electronics, and adding rubber insulation to the electronics case, you are ready to test your electric skateboard.\n\nIf you have any questions or wish to engage with the community in Portugal, please contact us.\n\nVisit:\n[vivalabporto.com](https://www.vivalabporto.com)\n[makerisland.io](https://www.makerisland.io)\n\nShare your results:\n@vivalabporto\n#vivalabporto", + "text": "After Assembling all the different parts, programming your electronics and adding the rubber insulation to the Electronics case you are ready to test your e-skate.\n\nRide Safe and Have Fun! 🛹♻\n\nIf you have any questions or would like to collaborate with the community from Portugal reach out to us! \n\nvivalabporto.com: vivalabporto.com\nmakerisland.io: makerisland.io\n\nShare your results to:\n@​​​​​vivalabporto\n@​​​​​realpreciousplastic\n#preciousplastic\n#vivalabporto", "title": "Have Fun!!!" } ], @@ -313,9 +313,5 @@ "urls": [] } }, - "content": "The PET MINI Skateboard is an open-source electric skateboard designed for efficient urban transportation. It aims to enhance your commuting experience by providing a swift, convenient last-mile travel solution.\n\nFor further inquiries or to engage with the maker community in Portugal, please contact us.\n\nVisit:\n[www.vivalabporto.com](https://www.vivalabporto.com/)\n[www.makerisland.io](https://www.makerisland.io/)\n\n\nUser Location: Porto, Portugal\n\nThe PET MINI (Personal Electric Transport) project highlights participatory design approaches.\n\nUtilizing Open Design, it allows for easy prototyping and global distribution while supporting local manufacturing and problem-solving.\n\nThe initial prototypes used plastic PP sheets provided by [filtered] HQ, which were machined into skateboard decks using a CNC router. Mechanical parts were 3D printed at a local Fab Lab, VIVALab. This process can be replicated at any of the 2,000 Fab Labs worldwide.\n\nCertainly. Here's the refined text:\n\n---\n\nDIY electric skateboards involve various specifications and parts selection. The components listed here enable a top speed of 22 mph (35 km/h) and a range of 22 miles (36 km):\n\n- 1x 10s BESTECH BMS 60A Battery Pack 12s2p (10s3p)\n- 1x BUNDLE HTD 5M 53 teeth Belt 10.4 inches (265mm)\n- 1x Electric Skateboard Speed Controller, Open Source VESC\n- 1x Eskating PRO Motors 6374 190Kv\n- 2x Caliber II Trucks 50° 10 inches\n- 4x Kegel 80mm Wheels\n- 8x ABEC 608 Bearings\n- 1x 2.4GHz Remote\n- 1x 16T Motor Pulley (8mm or 10mm)\n- 1x 3D Printed Wheel Gear Pulley and Motor Mount\n- 1x Skateboard Hardware Set - 1 inch\n- 2x 1/2 inch Rubber Riser Pads \n- 1x 3 feet (1m) of 0.04 inch (1mm) Rubber Window Insulation\n\n### Instructions\n\n1. **Create a 0.79-inch (20mm) Sheet:** \n Use the sheet press.\n\n2. **3D Print Components:** \n - **Armadillo Electronic Case:** \n - Material: PLA \n - Infill: 25-45% \n - Layer Height: 0.012 inches (0.3mm) \n\n - **Motor Mount:** \n - Material: ABS \n - Infill: <45% \n - Layer Height: 0.008 inches (0.2mm) \n\n - **Wheel Gear Pulley:** \n - Material: PC-ABS or Carbon Fiber \n - Infill: <45% \n - Layer Height: 0.008 inches (0.2mm) \n\n3. **CNC Milling:** \n Use the 3D model of the deck on a 0.79-inch (20mm) plastic sheet. Parameters depend on the CNC equipment at your local facility.\n\nThis tutorial provides guidance on programming and assembling electronics.\n\n**Electronics Assembly:** [YouTube Tutorial](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W5kOgzW5Jmc&list=PLkqXGkAj77a4fVV9FmcT0fqr66eJbBoh0)\n\nAfter assembling all components, programming the electronics, and adding rubber insulation to the electronics case, you are ready to test your electric skateboard.\n\nIf you have any questions or wish to engage with the community in Portugal, please contact us.\n\nVisit:\n[vivalabporto.com](https://www.vivalabporto.com)\n[makerisland.io](https://www.makerisland.io)\n\nShare your results:\n@vivalabporto\n#vivalabporto", - "keywords": "electric skateboard, open source skateboard, urban transportation solution, DIY electric skateboard, participatory design, VESC speed controller, skateboard prototyping, Fab Lab Portugal, 3D printed skateboard parts, PET MINI skateboard", - "resources": "The PET MINI Skateboard project combines open-source design with local manufacturing. Below is a concise breakdown of required tools, software, and hardware, optimized for replication in facilities like Porto’s VIVALab.\n\n### Tools\n\n- Sheet press (for 20mm plastic sheet creation)\n- CNC CNC Router (deck milling from PP sheets)\n- 3D printer (PLA/ABS/PC-ABS parts)\n- Local Fab Lab ([VIVALab](https://www.vivalabporto.com/) for 3D printing)\n- CNC machining facility (global Fab Lab network)\n\n### Software\n\n- Open Source VESC (programmable speed controller)\n- VESC Tool (configuration and firmware updates)\n- CNC machining software (device-specific parameters)\n- CAD/CAM software (deck design and toolpath generation)\n\n### Hardware\n\n- 10s BESTECH BMS 60A Battery Pack (12s2p/10s3p) [1][2]\n- Eskating PRO 6374 190Kv Motors [1]\n- Caliber II 50° Trucks (10-inch) [1]\n- Kegel 80mm Wheels (with ABEC 608 bearings) [1]\n- 3D-printed components ([VIVALab](https://www.vivalabporto.com/) or local Fab Lab)\n\nFor community support or local collaboration in Portugal, visit [VIVALab Porto](https://www.vivalabporto.com/) or [Maker Island](https://www.makerisland.io/).", - "references": "## Articles\n\n- [vivalabporto.com](https://www.vivalabporto.com)\n- [makerisland.io](https://www.makerisland.io)\n\n## YouTube\n\n- [Electronics Assembly Tutorial](https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLkqXGkAj77a4fVV9FmcT0fqr66eJbBoh0)\n\n## Opensource Designs\n\n- [PET MINI Skateboard Design Specifications](https://www.makerisland.io)\n- [3D Printing and CNC Milling Instructions](https://www.vivalabporto.com)", - "brief": "Open-source electric skateboard for efficient urban commute. DIY with global support; easy prototyping, local manufacturing. Engage with skate community in Portugal." + "content": "PET MINI Skateboard is a Open Source, Recycled Electric Skateboard for urban transportation. With the goal to end stressful commutes and boost your door-to-door speed with the perfect last mile recycled vehicle.\n\nIf you have any questions or would like to collaborate with the community from Portugal reach out to us! \n\nhttps://www.vivalabporto.com/\nhttps://www.makerisland.io/\n\n\nUser Location: Porto, Portugal\n\nPET MINI (Personal Electric Transport) was developed based on the growing importance of creating participatory approaches to design.\n\nBy using the potential of Open Design we can easily prototype and distribute design's at a global scale while promoting local manufacturing and problem solving. \n\nWe were grateful to get the recycled plastic PP sheet's from [filtered] HQ for the first prototypes, they were machined by a CNC CNC Router to obtain the skateboard deck. Mechanical parts were 3D printed to speed up prototyping phase, as the parts were manufactured at a local Fab Lab, VIVALab, so it can easily be replicated at any of the 2,000 Fab Lab's from the global network.\n\n\nThere is a whole world around DIY electric skateboards, different specs and consequently several different parts you can choose from. The parts we used allow a top speed of 35 km/h and a range of 36km:\n\n 1x 10s BESTECH bms 60a Battery Pack 12s2p (10s3p)\n 1x BUNDLE HTD 5M 53 teeth Belt 265mm\n 1x Electric Skateboard Speed Controller Open Source VESC\n 1x Eskating PRO motors 6374 190Kv\n 2x Caliber II Trucks 50° 10″\n 4x Kegel 80mm Wheels\n 8x ABEC 608\n 1x 2.4GHz remote\n 1x 16T Motor Pulley (8mm or 10mm)\n 1x 3D printed Wheel gear Pulley and Motor Mount\n 1x Skateboard Hardware Set - 1\" \n 2x 1/2\" Rubber Riser Pads \n 1x 1m of 1mm Rubber Window insulation \n\nStart by making your 20mm sheet using the sheetpress.\n\nRelated links:\nHow to make sheets 👉 tiny.cc/run-the-sheetpress\nFind sheets on the Bazar👉 bazar.preciousplastic.com\n\n3D print the Armadillo Electronic case, Wheel gear Pulley and Motor Mount\n\n3D printing Parameters:\n👉Armadillo Case:\n PLA\n 25% - 45% Infill\n 0.3mm layer hight\n\n👉 Motor Mount: \n ABS\n <45% Infill\n 0.2mm layer hight\n\n👉Wheel Gear Pulley:\n PC-ABS or Carbon Fiber\n <45% Infill\n 0.2mm layer hight\n\n3D CNC Milling 20mm Plastic Sheet using the 3d model of the deck parameters will depend on the available CNC at your local Fab Lab or Makerspace.\n\n\nWe share with you a comprehensive tutorial to program your electronics and to assemble your electronics\n\n👉Electronics Assembly: youtube.com: youtube.com/watch?v=W5kOgzW5Jmc&list=PLkqXGkAj77a4fVV9FmcT0fqr66eJbBoh0\n\nAfter Assembling all the different parts, programming your electronics and adding the rubber insulation to the Electronics case you are ready to test your e-skate.\n\nRide Safe and Have Fun! 🛹♻\n\nIf you have any questions or would like to collaborate with the community from Portugal reach out to us! \n\nvivalabporto.com: vivalabporto.com\nmakerisland.io: makerisland.io\n\nShare your results to:\n@​​​​​vivalabporto\n@​​​​​realpreciousplastic\n#preciousplastic\n#vivalabporto" } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/phonecase-mould-from-a-resin-printer/README.md b/howtos/phonecase-mould-from-a-resin-printer/README.md index 0b5562f89..3da591072 100644 --- a/howtos/phonecase-mould-from-a-resin-printer/README.md +++ b/howtos/phonecase-mould-from-a-resin-printer/README.md @@ -1,47 +1,53 @@ --- title: Phonecase mould from a resin printer slug: phonecase-mould-from-a-resin-printer -description: # Tutorial: Designing and Printing a Phone Cover Mold with a Resin Printer +description: This guide provides instructions on how to design and print a phone cover mould using a resin printer. You will see the steps involved in creating a phone cover mould, as well as some useful tips on mould design, resin printing, and manufacturing. -This guide outlines the process of designing and printing a phone cover mold using a resin printer. It includes essential steps for creating a mold and offers useful tips on mold design, resin printing, and manufacturing. +I hope you find this guide useful and that it inspires you to create your own resin mould soon! 😊 The zip file contains: -1. 3D files - SLA phone cover mold (step) -2. 3D files - SLA phone cover mold (stl) -3. Readme with relevant links (txt) -4. Technical drawing of the mold (pdf) +1. 3D files - SLA phone cover mould (step) +2. 3D files - SLA phone cover mould (stl) +3. Readme with links to the resin and printer I use (txt) +4. Technical drawing of the mould (pdf) + tags: ["PP","research","injection"] category: uncategorized difficulty: Hard time: < 1 week -keywords: resin printer, phone cover mold, 3D printing tutorial, Fusion 360, SLA printer, mold design, CAD library, GrabCAD, resin vs aluminum, 3D model creation +keywords: location: Lorrach, Germany --- # Phonecase mould from a resin printer ![Phonecase mould from a resin printer](_DSC9733-189ab337d9e.jpg) -# Tutorial: Designing and Printing a Phone Cover Mold with a Resin Printer +This guide provides instructions on how to design and print a phone cover mould using a resin printer. You will see the steps involved in creating a phone cover mould, as well as some useful tips on mould design, resin printing, and manufacturing. -This guide outlines the process of designing and printing a phone cover mold using a resin printer. It includes essential steps for creating a mold and offers useful tips on mold design, resin printing, and manufacturing. +I hope you find this guide useful and that it inspires you to create your own resin mould soon! 😊 The zip file contains: -1. 3D files - SLA phone cover mold (step) -2. 3D files - SLA phone cover mold (stl) -3. Readme with relevant links (txt) -4. Technical drawing of the mold (pdf) +1. 3D files - SLA phone cover mould (step) +2. 3D files - SLA phone cover mould (stl) +3. Readme with links to the resin and printer I use (txt) +4. Technical drawing of the mould (pdf) + User Location: Lorrach, Germany ## Steps ### Step 1: Download a phone model -Before modeling the mold, obtain a 3D model of the phone case you intend to create. Start by locating the phone model online, utilizing a CAD library such as GrabCAD. +Before you start modelling the mould you need to have a 3D model of the actual phonecase you want to create. For this purpose you need to find the phone model online. You can use a online CAD library like GrabCAD for that. -1. Visit GrabCAD and search for your desired phone model. -2. Download the model, preferably in STEP format. -3. Open the model in your CAD software. +1. Go to GrabCAD and search for the phone model you want to create a phonecover for. + +2. Download the model (STEP file works the best). + +3. Open the model in your CAD program. + +There might be other websites with CAD-libraries, but the one I regulary use is GrabCAD. I can really recommend it. You can find many different products as a 3D file there and once you registered all downloads are completely for free. + +Link to GrabCAD: grabcad.com: grabcad.com/library -Alternative CAD libraries are available, but GrabCAD frequently offers a wide range of 3D files. Registration allows free downloads. -[GrabCAD Library](https://grabcad.com/library) ![Folie7-189bff2ef50.PNG](./Folie7-189bff2ef50.PNG) @@ -54,15 +60,19 @@ Alternative CAD libraries are available, but GrabCAD frequently offers a wide ra ### Step 2: Design the mould (with Fusion360) -To design a phone cover, begin by downloading the phone model. Use this model to create the cover shape and mould. Fusion360 is a suitable 3D design software for all skill levels. +To design a phone cover, you need to download the phone model first. Then, you can use the model to create the shape of the cover and the mould. A recommended software for 3D design is Fusion360, which is suitable for both beginners and experts. -Two instructional videos can guide you in using Fusion360 for this project: +There are two helpful videos that show how to use Fusion360 for this project. You can find the links below. -1. "Product Design Online" offers a step-by-step tutorial on designing a phone case model. [Watch here](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1MmjBLYMNWY) +The first video is by "Product Design Online", a channel that provides detailed tutorials on Fusion360. This video teaches you how to design a phone case model step by step. -2. Lars Christensen's channel provides a three-part series on creating a mould. [Watch here](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_hgmwhde1So) +Making a phone cover model :youtube.com: youtube.com/watch?v=1MmjBLYMNWY -Alternatively, pre-made phone cover models are often available on GrabCad, which can save time in the design process. +The other one is by Lars Christensen's channel, where he creates a mould in a series of three videos. + +Lars making a mould in fusion: youtube.com: youtube.com/watch?v=_hgmwhde1So + +Often time you can find finished phone cover models on GrabCad aswell. This then safes you the time of designing it yourself and you can directly start making the mould :) ![Capture-1899ccec87e.PNG](./Capture-1899ccec87e.PNG) @@ -75,13 +85,16 @@ Alternatively, pre-made phone cover models are often available on GrabCad, which ### Step 3: Tips for using Fusion360 -Fusion 360 is a robust software utilized for various projects since 2018. While it is not free, there are options to bypass the subscription cost. +Fusion 360 is a powerful software that I have been using since 2018 for various projects. The software is not free, but there are some options to avoid the costly subscription. + +One option is to get the educational license if you are a student at a university. This license is free and valid for as long as you are enrolled. You just need to provide a document that proves your student status. + +Another option is to use the hobbyist version of Fusion 360, which has some limitations on the file formats you can import and export. I am not very familiar with this version, but the educational license works well for me. + +Link to the educational download: autodesk.com: autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/education -Students at universities can acquire a free educational license valid for the duration of enrollment by submitting proof of their status. -Alternatively, a hobbyist version is available with some restrictions on file formats for import and export. -Download the educational version here: [autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/education](https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/education) ![Folie5-189bff2ab49.PNG](./Folie5-189bff2ab49.PNG) @@ -94,19 +107,20 @@ Download the educational version here: [autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/educati ### Step 4: 3D print the mould or give it to a manufacturer -Once the mold is designed, it can be 3D printed using an SLA printer, which cures liquid resin into solid layers with light. If a printer is unavailable, consider online manufacturing services. +Once the mould is designed, you can 3D print it in a SLA printer. SLA stands for stereolithography, a process that uses light to cure liquid resin into solid layers. If you have no printer available you can assign the job to an online manufacturer. Make it yourself: -1. Prepare your model by slicing it into layers with software like ChiTuBox. Select a high-temperature resin for the mold. +1. Prepare your model and materials. You need to slice your model into layers using a software like ChiTuBox. You need to choose the right resin for your mould. It needs to a high temeperature resin. (I put a link to the resin I use in the readme) -2. Pour the resin into the tank and start the print. Refer to available tutorials for SLA printer usage. +2. Put the resin into the tank start your print. There are many tutorials on how to use a SLA printer for this purpose. -3. Wait for the print to complete. +3. Relax and wait for the model to print:) Assign to an online manufacturer: -Consider services like Xometry for manufacturing needs. They offer quality production with various materials, including resin. +I often use Xometry for that. They have reasonable prices and every part, which they manufactured for me so far was really good in quality. My only experience so far is with aluminum but they also offer different resin materials. + +Link to Xometry: xometry.com: xometry.com -Visit Xometry: [Xometry Website](https://www.xometry.com) ![Folie6-189bff264b4.PNG](./Folie6-189bff264b4.PNG) @@ -119,13 +133,14 @@ Visit Xometry: [Xometry Website](https://www.xometry.com) ### Step 5: Things to know when designing a resin mould -### Resin vs. Aluminum Moulds +The resin material is very different from aluminum. One of the main differences between resin and aluminum moulds is their thermal conductivity, which is a measure of how well a material can transfer heat. Thermal conductivity affects the heating and cooling times, the quality and the cost of the moulded parts. -Resin differs significantly from aluminum, particularly in thermal conductivity, impacting heating, cooling, and moulding quality. +The resin material transfers heat much worse, that is why you can design thinner walls of your finished part. However, this also means that the resin parts will take longer to cool down. -Resin conducts heat poorly, allowing for thinner wall designs but resulting in longer cooling times. Despite this, resin's slower cooling can reduce tension, minimizing cracking or warping risks. +Depending on the part shape, a resin mould can also be advantageous. Because of the slower cooling, the tensions in the finished parts are generally lower and the risk of cracking or warping is reduced. + +On the other hand, the resin material is much more brittle than aluminum and you need to work much more careful with it. Resin moulds are more prone to damage from abrasion or impact, and they may require more frequent maintenance or replacement. -However, resin is more brittle than aluminum, necessitating careful handling. Resin moulds are more susceptible to damage from abrasion or impact and may need more frequent maintenance or replacement. ![_DSC9721-189bb74a83e.JPG](./_DSC9721-189bb74a83e.JPG) @@ -138,56 +153,17 @@ However, resin is more brittle than aluminum, necessitating careful handling. Re ### Step 6: Using the mould for automatic injection molding -I designed a resin mold specifically for an automatic injection molding machine, which is my primary project. This fully automated machine utilizes ejector pins to remove the finished parts. Consequently, the mold's insert carries four holes for these pins. +I created this resin mould design for an automatic injection molding machine on which I've been working on as my main project. The machine is totally automated, and it uses ejector pins to pop out the finished parts. That's why the insert part of the mould has four holes for the ejector pins. -To see the ejector mechanism in action, view the demonstration on my YouTube channel. +If you're curious about how it all works, I made a cool YouTube clip showing the ejecting mechanism in action with the pins installed. Take a look! -I trust this tutorial assists you. For more details on this mold or similar projects, such as the automatic machine, visit my channel. +I hope this How-to was useful for you. If you want to find more information on this mould or other things I do like the automatic recycling machine, feel free to visit my channel. -[Instagram: instagram.com/sotop_recycling](https://www.instagram.com/sotop_recycling/) +instagram.com: instagram.com/sotop_recycling -Sincerely, +Cheers, -Manuel +Manuel :) ## Resources -### Software - -- [Fusion 360](https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/education) (3D design with educational license option) -- [ChiTuBox](https://www.chitubox.com) (slicing software for resin prints) - -### Hardware - -- SLA resin printer (e.g., Elegoo Mars, Formlabs) -- High-temperature resin (e.g., Siraya Tech Blu, Phrozen TR250) - -### Resources & Services - -- [GrabCAD Library](https://grabcad.com/library) (download phone 3D models in STEP format) -- [Xometry](https://www.xometry.com) (outsource resin mold printing) - -### Supplementary Tools - -- Automatic injection molding machine (for ejector pin integration) [demonstrated here](https://www.instagram.com/sotop_recycling/) -- Ejector pins (for mold ejection mechanism) -## References -## Opensource Designs - -- [GrabCAD Library](https://grabcad.com/library) - -## YouTube - -- [Product Design Online Tutorial](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1MmjBLYMNWY) -- [Lars Christensen's Mold Series](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_hgmwhde1So) - -## Software Resources - -- [Fusion 360 Educational Version](https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/education) - -## Manufacturing Services - -- [Xometry](https://www.xometry.com) - -## Social Media - -- [Sotop Recycling Instagram](https://www.instagram.com/sotop_recycling/) \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/phonecase-mould-from-a-resin-printer/config.json b/howtos/phonecase-mould-from-a-resin-printer/config.json index 416befaed..22c6d5ec6 100644 --- a/howtos/phonecase-mould-from-a-resin-printer/config.json +++ b/howtos/phonecase-mould-from-a-resin-printer/config.json @@ -1,7 +1,7 @@ { "_contentModifiedTimestamp": "2023-08-04T09:50:22.249Z", "title": "Phonecase mould from a resin printer", - "description": "# Tutorial: Designing and Printing a Phone Cover Mold with a Resin Printer\n\nThis guide outlines the process of designing and printing a phone cover mold using a resin printer. It includes essential steps for creating a mold and offers useful tips on mold design, resin printing, and manufacturing.\n\nThe zip file contains:\n1. 3D files - SLA phone cover mold (step)\n2. 3D files - SLA phone cover mold (stl)\n3. Readme with relevant links (txt)\n4. Technical drawing of the mold (pdf)", + "description": "This guide provides instructions on how to design and print a phone cover mould using a resin printer. You will see the steps involved in creating a phone cover mould, as well as some useful tips on mould design, resin printing, and manufacturing.\n\nI hope you find this guide useful and that it inspires you to create your own resin mould soon! 😊\n\nThe zip file contains:\n1. 3D files - SLA phone cover mould (step)\n2. 3D files - SLA phone cover mould (stl)\n3. Readme with links to the resin and printer I use (txt)\n4. Technical drawing of the mould (pdf)\n", "time": "< 1 week", "votedUsefulBy": [ "la-fbrica-makerspace", @@ -60,7 +60,7 @@ } ], "title": "Download a phone model", - "text": "Before modeling the mold, obtain a 3D model of the phone case you intend to create. Start by locating the phone model online, utilizing a CAD library such as GrabCAD.\n\n1. Visit GrabCAD and search for your desired phone model.\n2. Download the model, preferably in STEP format.\n3. Open the model in your CAD software.\n\nAlternative CAD libraries are available, but GrabCAD frequently offers a wide range of 3D files. Registration allows free downloads.\n\n[GrabCAD Library](https://grabcad.com/library)" + "text": "Before you start modelling the mould you need to have a 3D model of the actual phonecase you want to create. For this purpose you need to find the phone model online. You can use a online CAD library like GrabCAD for that.\n\n1. Go to GrabCAD and search for the phone model you want to create a phonecover for.\n\n2. Download the model (STEP file works the best).\n\n3. Open the model in your CAD program.\n\nThere might be other websites with CAD-libraries, but the one I regulary use is GrabCAD. I can really recommend it. You can find many different products as a 3D file there and once you registered all downloads are completely for free.\n\nLink to GrabCAD: grabcad.com: grabcad.com/library\n\n" }, { "title": "Design the mould (with Fusion360)", @@ -102,12 +102,12 @@ "alt": "crosssec1-1899cea4efc.PNG" } ], - "text": "To design a phone cover, begin by downloading the phone model. Use this model to create the cover shape and mould. Fusion360 is a suitable 3D design software for all skill levels.\n\nTwo instructional videos can guide you in using Fusion360 for this project:\n\n1. \"Product Design Online\" offers a step-by-step tutorial on designing a phone case model. [Watch here](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1MmjBLYMNWY)\n\n2. Lars Christensen's channel provides a three-part series on creating a mould. [Watch here](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_hgmwhde1So)\n\nAlternatively, pre-made phone cover models are often available on GrabCad, which can save time in the design process.", + "text": "To design a phone cover, you need to download the phone model first. Then, you can use the model to create the shape of the cover and the mould. A recommended software for 3D design is Fusion360, which is suitable for both beginners and experts.\n\nThere are two helpful videos that show how to use Fusion360 for this project. You can find the links below.\n\nThe first video is by \"Product Design Online\", a channel that provides detailed tutorials on Fusion360. This video teaches you how to design a phone case model step by step.\n\nMaking a phone cover model :youtube.com: youtube.com/watch?v=1MmjBLYMNWY\n\nThe other one is by Lars Christensen's channel, where he creates a mould in a series of three videos.\n\nLars making a mould in fusion: youtube.com: youtube.com/watch?v=_hgmwhde1So\n\nOften time you can find finished phone cover models on GrabCad aswell. This then safes you the time of designing it yourself and you can directly start making the mould :)", "_animationKey": "unique1" }, { "_animationKey": "unique2", - "text": "Fusion 360 is a robust software utilized for various projects since 2018. While it is not free, there are options to bypass the subscription cost.\n\nStudents at universities can acquire a free educational license valid for the duration of enrollment by submitting proof of their status.\n\nAlternatively, a hobbyist version is available with some restrictions on file formats for import and export.\n\nDownload the educational version here: [autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/education](https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/education)", + "text": "Fusion 360 is a powerful software that I have been using since 2018 for various projects. The software is not free, but there are some options to avoid the costly subscription.\n\nOne option is to get the educational license if you are a student at a university. This license is free and valid for as long as you are enrolled. You just need to provide a document that proves your student status.\n\nAnother option is to use the hobbyist version of Fusion 360, which has some limitations on the file formats you can import and export. I am not very familiar with this version, but the educational license works well for me.\n\nLink to the educational download: autodesk.com: autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/education\n\n\n", "images": [ { "updated": "2023-08-04T09:49:02.214Z", @@ -188,11 +188,11 @@ "alt": "asdf-189bff2881c.PNG" } ], - "text": "Once the mold is designed, it can be 3D printed using an SLA printer, which cures liquid resin into solid layers with light. If a printer is unavailable, consider online manufacturing services.\n\nMake it yourself:\n1. Prepare your model by slicing it into layers with software like ChiTuBox. Select a high-temperature resin for the mold.\n\n2. Pour the resin into the tank and start the print. Refer to available tutorials for SLA printer usage.\n\n3. Wait for the print to complete.\n\nAssign to an online manufacturer:\nConsider services like Xometry for manufacturing needs. They offer quality production with various materials, including resin. \n\nVisit Xometry: [Xometry Website](https://www.xometry.com)", + "text": "Once the mould is designed, you can 3D print it in a SLA printer. SLA stands for stereolithography, a process that uses light to cure liquid resin into solid layers. If you have no printer available you can assign the job to an online manufacturer.\n\nMake it yourself:\n1. Prepare your model and materials. You need to slice your model into layers using a software like ChiTuBox. You need to choose the right resin for your mould. It needs to a high temeperature resin. (I put a link to the resin I use in the readme)\n\n2. Put the resin into the tank start your print. There are many tutorials on how to use a SLA printer for this purpose.\n\n3. Relax and wait for the model to print:) \n\nAssign to an online manufacturer:\nI often use Xometry for that. They have reasonable prices and every part, which they manufactured for me so far was really good in quality. My only experience so far is with aluminum but they also offer different resin materials.\n\nLink to Xometry: xometry.com: xometry.com\n", "_animationKey": "unique3" }, { - "text": "### Resin vs. Aluminum Moulds\n\nResin differs significantly from aluminum, particularly in thermal conductivity, impacting heating, cooling, and moulding quality.\n\nResin conducts heat poorly, allowing for thinner wall designs but resulting in longer cooling times. Despite this, resin's slower cooling can reduce tension, minimizing cracking or warping risks.\n\nHowever, resin is more brittle than aluminum, necessitating careful handling. Resin moulds are more susceptible to damage from abrasion or impact and may need more frequent maintenance or replacement.", + "text": "The resin material is very different from aluminum. One of the main differences between resin and aluminum moulds is their thermal conductivity, which is a measure of how well a material can transfer heat. Thermal conductivity affects the heating and cooling times, the quality and the cost of the moulded parts.\n\nThe resin material transfers heat much worse, that is why you can design thinner walls of your finished part. However, this also means that the resin parts will take longer to cool down. \n\nDepending on the part shape, a resin mould can also be advantageous. Because of the slower cooling, the tensions in the finished parts are generally lower and the risk of cracking or warping is reduced.\n\nOn the other hand, the resin material is much more brittle than aluminum and you need to work much more careful with it. Resin moulds are more prone to damage from abrasion or impact, and they may require more frequent maintenance or replacement.\n", "title": "Things to know when designing a resin mould", "images": [ { @@ -235,7 +235,7 @@ "_animationKey": "uniquelz36y3" }, { - "text": "I designed a resin mold specifically for an automatic injection molding machine, which is my primary project. This fully automated machine utilizes ejector pins to remove the finished parts. Consequently, the mold's insert carries four holes for these pins.\n\nTo see the ejector mechanism in action, view the demonstration on my YouTube channel. \n\nI trust this tutorial assists you. For more details on this mold or similar projects, such as the automatic machine, visit my channel.\n\n[Instagram: instagram.com/sotop_recycling](https://www.instagram.com/sotop_recycling/) \n\nSincerely,\n\nManuel", + "text": "I created this resin mould design for an automatic injection molding machine on which I've been working on as my main project. The machine is totally automated, and it uses ejector pins to pop out the finished parts. That's why the insert part of the mould has four holes for the ejector pins. \n\nIf you're curious about how it all works, I made a cool YouTube clip showing the ejecting mechanism in action with the pins installed. Take a look!\n\nI hope this How-to was useful for you. If you want to find more information on this mould or other things I do like the automatic recycling machine, feel free to visit my channel.\n\ninstagram.com: instagram.com/sotop_recycling\n\nCheers,\n\nManuel :)", "videoUrl": "https://youtu.be/d_5YONoLBhs", "title": "Using the mould for automatic injection molding", "_animationKey": "unique0a5v3", @@ -428,9 +428,5 @@ "category": { "label": "uncategorized" }, - "content": "# Tutorial: Designing and Printing a Phone Cover Mold with a Resin Printer\n\nThis guide outlines the process of designing and printing a phone cover mold using a resin printer. It includes essential steps for creating a mold and offers useful tips on mold design, resin printing, and manufacturing.\n\nThe zip file contains:\n1. 3D files - SLA phone cover mold (step)\n2. 3D files - SLA phone cover mold (stl)\n3. Readme with relevant links (txt)\n4. Technical drawing of the mold (pdf)\n\n\nUser Location: Lorrach, Germany\n\nBefore modeling the mold, obtain a 3D model of the phone case you intend to create. Start by locating the phone model online, utilizing a CAD library such as GrabCAD.\n\n1. Visit GrabCAD and search for your desired phone model.\n2. Download the model, preferably in STEP format.\n3. Open the model in your CAD software.\n\nAlternative CAD libraries are available, but GrabCAD frequently offers a wide range of 3D files. Registration allows free downloads.\n\n[GrabCAD Library](https://grabcad.com/library)\n\nTo design a phone cover, begin by downloading the phone model. Use this model to create the cover shape and mould. Fusion360 is a suitable 3D design software for all skill levels.\n\nTwo instructional videos can guide you in using Fusion360 for this project:\n\n1. \"Product Design Online\" offers a step-by-step tutorial on designing a phone case model. [Watch here](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1MmjBLYMNWY)\n\n2. Lars Christensen's channel provides a three-part series on creating a mould. [Watch here](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_hgmwhde1So)\n\nAlternatively, pre-made phone cover models are often available on GrabCad, which can save time in the design process.\n\nFusion 360 is a robust software utilized for various projects since 2018. While it is not free, there are options to bypass the subscription cost.\n\nStudents at universities can acquire a free educational license valid for the duration of enrollment by submitting proof of their status.\n\nAlternatively, a hobbyist version is available with some restrictions on file formats for import and export.\n\nDownload the educational version here: [autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/education](https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/education)\n\nOnce the mold is designed, it can be 3D printed using an SLA printer, which cures liquid resin into solid layers with light. If a printer is unavailable, consider online manufacturing services.\n\nMake it yourself:\n1. Prepare your model by slicing it into layers with software like ChiTuBox. Select a high-temperature resin for the mold.\n\n2. Pour the resin into the tank and start the print. Refer to available tutorials for SLA printer usage.\n\n3. Wait for the print to complete.\n\nAssign to an online manufacturer:\nConsider services like Xometry for manufacturing needs. They offer quality production with various materials, including resin. \n\nVisit Xometry: [Xometry Website](https://www.xometry.com)\n\n### Resin vs. Aluminum Moulds\n\nResin differs significantly from aluminum, particularly in thermal conductivity, impacting heating, cooling, and moulding quality.\n\nResin conducts heat poorly, allowing for thinner wall designs but resulting in longer cooling times. Despite this, resin's slower cooling can reduce tension, minimizing cracking or warping risks.\n\nHowever, resin is more brittle than aluminum, necessitating careful handling. Resin moulds are more susceptible to damage from abrasion or impact and may need more frequent maintenance or replacement.\n\nI designed a resin mold specifically for an automatic injection molding machine, which is my primary project. This fully automated machine utilizes ejector pins to remove the finished parts. Consequently, the mold's insert carries four holes for these pins.\n\nTo see the ejector mechanism in action, view the demonstration on my YouTube channel. \n\nI trust this tutorial assists you. For more details on this mold or similar projects, such as the automatic machine, visit my channel.\n\n[Instagram: instagram.com/sotop_recycling](https://www.instagram.com/sotop_recycling/) \n\nSincerely,\n\nManuel", - "keywords": "resin printer, phone cover mold, 3D printing tutorial, Fusion 360, SLA printer, mold design, CAD library, GrabCAD, resin vs aluminum, 3D model creation", - "resources": "### Software\n\n- [Fusion 360](https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/education) (3D design with educational license option)\n- [ChiTuBox](https://www.chitubox.com) (slicing software for resin prints)\n\n### Hardware\n\n- SLA resin printer (e.g., Elegoo Mars, Formlabs)\n- High-temperature resin (e.g., Siraya Tech Blu, Phrozen TR250)\n\n### Resources & Services\n\n- [GrabCAD Library](https://grabcad.com/library) (download phone 3D models in STEP format)\n- [Xometry](https://www.xometry.com) (outsource resin mold printing)\n\n### Supplementary Tools\n\n- Automatic injection molding machine (for ejector pin integration) [demonstrated here](https://www.instagram.com/sotop_recycling/)\n- Ejector pins (for mold ejection mechanism)", - "references": "## Opensource Designs\n\n- [GrabCAD Library](https://grabcad.com/library)\n\n## YouTube\n\n- [Product Design Online Tutorial](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1MmjBLYMNWY)\n- [Lars Christensen's Mold Series](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_hgmwhde1So)\n\n## Software Resources\n\n- [Fusion 360 Educational Version](https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/education)\n\n## Manufacturing Services\n\n- [Xometry](https://www.xometry.com)\n\n## Social Media\n\n- [Sotop Recycling Instagram](https://www.instagram.com/sotop_recycling/)", - "brief": "Create and print a phone cover mold using a resin printer with this step-by-step guide. Includes tips on design, resin printing, and a technical drawing." + "content": "This guide provides instructions on how to design and print a phone cover mould using a resin printer. You will see the steps involved in creating a phone cover mould, as well as some useful tips on mould design, resin printing, and manufacturing.\n\nI hope you find this guide useful and that it inspires you to create your own resin mould soon! 😊\n\nThe zip file contains:\n1. 3D files - SLA phone cover mould (step)\n2. 3D files - SLA phone cover mould (stl)\n3. Readme with links to the resin and printer I use (txt)\n4. Technical drawing of the mould (pdf)\n\n\n\nUser Location: Lorrach, Germany\n\nBefore you start modelling the mould you need to have a 3D model of the actual phonecase you want to create. For this purpose you need to find the phone model online. You can use a online CAD library like GrabCAD for that.\n\n1. Go to GrabCAD and search for the phone model you want to create a phonecover for.\n\n2. Download the model (STEP file works the best).\n\n3. Open the model in your CAD program.\n\nThere might be other websites with CAD-libraries, but the one I regulary use is GrabCAD. I can really recommend it. You can find many different products as a 3D file there and once you registered all downloads are completely for free.\n\nLink to GrabCAD: grabcad.com: grabcad.com/library\n\n\n\nTo design a phone cover, you need to download the phone model first. Then, you can use the model to create the shape of the cover and the mould. A recommended software for 3D design is Fusion360, which is suitable for both beginners and experts.\n\nThere are two helpful videos that show how to use Fusion360 for this project. You can find the links below.\n\nThe first video is by \"Product Design Online\", a channel that provides detailed tutorials on Fusion360. This video teaches you how to design a phone case model step by step.\n\nMaking a phone cover model :youtube.com: youtube.com/watch?v=1MmjBLYMNWY\n\nThe other one is by Lars Christensen's channel, where he creates a mould in a series of three videos.\n\nLars making a mould in fusion: youtube.com: youtube.com/watch?v=_hgmwhde1So\n\nOften time you can find finished phone cover models on GrabCad aswell. This then safes you the time of designing it yourself and you can directly start making the mould :)\n\nFusion 360 is a powerful software that I have been using since 2018 for various projects. The software is not free, but there are some options to avoid the costly subscription.\n\nOne option is to get the educational license if you are a student at a university. This license is free and valid for as long as you are enrolled. You just need to provide a document that proves your student status.\n\nAnother option is to use the hobbyist version of Fusion 360, which has some limitations on the file formats you can import and export. I am not very familiar with this version, but the educational license works well for me.\n\nLink to the educational download: autodesk.com: autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/education\n\n\n\n\nOnce the mould is designed, you can 3D print it in a SLA printer. SLA stands for stereolithography, a process that uses light to cure liquid resin into solid layers. If you have no printer available you can assign the job to an online manufacturer.\n\nMake it yourself:\n1. Prepare your model and materials. You need to slice your model into layers using a software like ChiTuBox. You need to choose the right resin for your mould. It needs to a high temeperature resin. (I put a link to the resin I use in the readme)\n\n2. Put the resin into the tank start your print. There are many tutorials on how to use a SLA printer for this purpose.\n\n3. Relax and wait for the model to print:) \n\nAssign to an online manufacturer:\nI often use Xometry for that. They have reasonable prices and every part, which they manufactured for me so far was really good in quality. My only experience so far is with aluminum but they also offer different resin materials.\n\nLink to Xometry: xometry.com: xometry.com\n\n\nThe resin material is very different from aluminum. One of the main differences between resin and aluminum moulds is their thermal conductivity, which is a measure of how well a material can transfer heat. Thermal conductivity affects the heating and cooling times, the quality and the cost of the moulded parts.\n\nThe resin material transfers heat much worse, that is why you can design thinner walls of your finished part. However, this also means that the resin parts will take longer to cool down. \n\nDepending on the part shape, a resin mould can also be advantageous. Because of the slower cooling, the tensions in the finished parts are generally lower and the risk of cracking or warping is reduced.\n\nOn the other hand, the resin material is much more brittle than aluminum and you need to work much more careful with it. Resin moulds are more prone to damage from abrasion or impact, and they may require more frequent maintenance or replacement.\n\n\nI created this resin mould design for an automatic injection molding machine on which I've been working on as my main project. The machine is totally automated, and it uses ejector pins to pop out the finished parts. That's why the insert part of the mould has four holes for the ejector pins. \n\nIf you're curious about how it all works, I made a cool YouTube clip showing the ejecting mechanism in action with the pins installed. Take a look!\n\nI hope this How-to was useful for you. If you want to find more information on this mould or other things I do like the automatic recycling machine, feel free to visit my channel.\n\ninstagram.com: instagram.com/sotop_recycling\n\nCheers,\n\nManuel :)" } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/plate-mould/README.md b/howtos/plate-mould/README.md index 84fe2ed49..1451df60b 100644 --- a/howtos/plate-mould/README.md +++ b/howtos/plate-mould/README.md @@ -1,58 +1,57 @@ --- title: Plate mould slug: plate-mould -description: This tutorial demonstrates the creation of an aluminum mold for injecting a plate measuring 0.12 inches (3mm) in thickness. The plate is suitable for serving dry items such as nuts and various objects. It should not be used for direct food consumption unless a suitable coating or lacquer is applied. +description: In this awsome "How To" you will make an aluminium mould for injecting a plate (3mm thickness) from recycled plastic. -For a demonstration of the plate's creation, visit: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YzjTm3FRLVY&t=5s +Can be used for serving dry food like nuts or for objects :) +Should not be used for eating purposes - only if you apply a correct coating or lacquer! -Special thanks to Paul Denney. +Check out the real life plate execution here: https://www.youtube.com/watch? v=YzjTm3FRLVY&t=5s + +This product rocks! +*special thanks to Paul Denney! tags: ["PP","product","injection","mould"] category: Moulds difficulty: Medium time: 1-2 weeks -keywords: aluminum mold creation, injection molding guide, CNC milling tutorial, plastic injection techniques, aluminum plate crafting, DIY mold making, CNC machine use, injection molding safety, metal polishing tips, non-food safe molds +keywords: location: Amsterdam, Netherlands (Kingdom of the) --- # Plate mould ![Plate mould](mould_top_bottom-18391cdffca.jpg) -This tutorial demonstrates the creation of an aluminum mold for injecting a plate measuring 0.12 inches (3mm) in thickness. The plate is suitable for serving dry items such as nuts and various objects. It should not be used for direct food consumption unless a suitable coating or lacquer is applied. +In this awsome "How To" you will make an aluminium mould for injecting a plate (3mm thickness) from recycled plastic. -For a demonstration of the plate's creation, visit: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YzjTm3FRLVY&t=5s +Can be used for serving dry food like nuts or for objects :) +Should not be used for eating purposes - only if you apply a correct coating or lacquer! -Special thanks to Paul Denney. +Check out the real life plate execution here: https://www.youtube.com/watch? v=YzjTm3FRLVY&t=5s + +This product rocks! +*special thanks to Paul Denney! User Location: Amsterdam, Netherlands (Kingdom of the) ## Steps ### Step 1: Get ready -## Tools Required: - -- CNC machine -- Cutting tools (pliers, drill, welder) -- Safety gear (mask with ABEC filter, gloves, glasses) -- Scale -- Sandpaper -- Polishing paste (for metal) -- 4 bolts (0.31 inches width, min length 3.54 inches) + nuts -- 2 metal dowel pins (0.24 inches example) -- Drill bits (0.31 inches and 0.24 inches) -- Wrenches -- 2 aluminum blocks (10.24x10.24x1.57 inches) -- Metal sheet (min 5.91x5.91x0.20 inches) -- 1-inch plumbing connector -- Stamp for plastic type - -## Machines Required: - -- Injection machine -- Shredder (or shredded plastic) +Tools needed: +- CNC, tools to cut (cutting plier), drill and welder - Mask with ABEC filter, gloves, glasses +- scale, sanding paper, polishing paste (for metal) - 4 bolts of 8m width, min length 9 cm + nuts +- 2 metal dowel pins (6m example) +- 8m + 6m drill bit +- wrenches +- 2 aluminium blocks 26x26x4cm, +- metal sheet min 15x15x0.5cm +- plumbing connector 1 inch, +- [filtered] stamp for your plastic type +Machines needed: Injection machine and a shredder (or shredded plastic) ![Screenshot 2020-02-03 at 23.27.49.png](./Screenshot_2020-02-03_at_23.27.49.png) ### Step 2: The mould -To create a plate using the injection machine, a three-part mold is necessary: a bottom part and a top part, both made of aluminum, and a connector part made of steel. The top and bottom parts will be CNC-milled from aluminum blocks, while the connector part will be fabricated manually. +As we will make this plate with the injection machine, we need to make the mould for it. It will be made of 3 parts: Bottom and top part out of aluminium. And next is the connector part made from steel. +The top and bottom part will be CNC-milled out of two blocks of aluminium while we’ll make the connector part manually. ![mould top + bottom.jpg](./mould_top_bottom.jpg) @@ -62,24 +61,28 @@ To create a plate using the injection machine, a three-part mold is necessary: a ### Step 3: CNC your top and bottom parts -## CNC Milling Instructions +Let’s start with the CNC part. +Download the attached STEP file and CNC-mill them into the 2 separate aluminium blocks both equal sized of minimum size 26cm x 26cm x 4cm. (Note: The standard [filtered] Injection machine limits the max width for moulds to 28cm). -Begin with the CNC milling process. Download the attached STEP file and use it to mill two separate aluminum blocks. Each block should measure at least 10.24 inches x 10.24 inches x 1.57 inches (26 cm x 26 cm x 4 cm). Note: The maximum width for molds is 11.02 inches (28 cm). +The step file includes 6 reference points to be milled. These points make it easy to manually drill on the exact location of the aluminium blocks. If you are not lucky enough to have access to a CNC milling machine, you can send the files to a CNC cutting company (consider that this will be more expensive and will probably take longer). -The STEP file includes six reference points to aid in accurately drilling the aluminum blocks. If a CNC milling machine is unavailable, you may send the files to a CNC service provider, keeping in mind this option may incur higher costs and extended time. +Once the mould is cut, polish the mould to achieve a high quality surface for your product. You can do that yourself or ask the CNC cutting company to polish the mould for you. + +*special thanks to Friedrich -After the mold is cut, polish it to achieve a high-quality surface finish. You may do this yourself or request the CNC service provider to perform the polishing. ![Screenshot 2020-02-03 at 23.13.17.png](./Screenshot_2020-02-03_at_23.13.17.png) ### Step 4: Drill the holes in the aluminium mould -We need to create holes in the mould parts. There are two types of holes required, making a total of six holes, excluding the injection hole, which will be addressed later. +Now the mould parts need holes. We have to make 2 types of holes. Total will be 6. (the injection hole comes later) -First, drill two halfway holes on the inner sides of the aluminum (aluminium) blocks to accommodate metal dowel pins. These pins ensure the mould aligns correctly during injection. Drill holes corresponding to the dowel pin size you are using. For instance, if using 0.25 inches (6 mm) pins, drill accordingly. The mould will open and close more easily with use. +First we drill 2 halfway holes on both inner sides of the aluminium blocks to fit 2 metal dowel pins in there. These pins make sure your mould is always aligned straight when you are injecting. (see first image) Drill the hole size according to the dowel pin size you have. I used 6m width. Drill the holes on both sides half way. +After opening and closing the mould more often the opening and closing will become more easy. + +Then 4 holes are needed to connect and close the mould with bolts and nuts. Drill 4 holes on the 4 corners of the aluminium blocks. Use the pre marked drill indicators ór close the mould straight -Next, drill four holes at the corners of the aluminum (aluminium) blocks for bolts and nuts to secure the mould. Use the marked drill indicators or align the mould properly to ensure correctness. ![Screenshot 2020-02-03 at 23.26.12.png](./Screenshot_2020-02-03_at_23.26.12.png) @@ -92,7 +95,7 @@ Next, drill four holes at the corners of the aluminum (aluminium) blocks for bol ### Step 5: Drill the injection hole -Drill a hole (0.51 inches) in the center of the bottom mold part with a 13mm bit. This facilitates the flow of plastic from the injection machine into the mold. A central drill indicator is available in the STEP file. +Using a 13mm bit, drill a hole in the center of the bottom mould part. This is where the plastic will flow into the mould, out of the injection machine. The center drill indicator is also included in the STEP file. ![Screenshot 2020-02-03 at 23.25.12.png](./Screenshot_2020-02-03_at_23.25.12.png) @@ -102,7 +105,11 @@ Drill a hole (0.51 inches) in the center of the bottom mold part with a 13mm bit ### Step 6: Make the connector plate -To create the connection plate, acquire a square steel sheet measuring 59 inches by 59 inches (150 cm x 150 cm) with a minimum thickness of 0.2 inches (0.5 cm) and a nozzle compatible with your injection machine (e.g., 1/2 inch BSP type). Verify the connection types for the injector. Mark the centers for the holes following the drawing and drill accordingly. Position the nozzle over the 0.5-inch (13 mm) hole and weld it securely to the plate, ensuring it is precisely centered to facilitate attaching the mold and optimizing plastic flow. Precise alignment with the mold and injection machine is crucial, so maintain accuracy throughout the process. +To make the connection plate, we need a square steel sheet of 150cm x 150cm (minimum 0.5cm thick) and a nozzle which fits your injection machine (here: 1/2 inch - BSP - type). Check the connection types of the injector. youtu.be: youtu.be/qtZv96ciFIU?t=255 +Mark the center points for the holes according to the drawing and drill the holes. +Then place the nozzle on top of the 13mm hole and weld it to the plate. Make sure to place it exactly in the center, this will help screwing the mould to the injector easily, and make the plastic flow through more fluently. +This part needs to align perfectly to the rest of the mould and the injection machine, so try to work as precisely as possible. + ![Screenshot 2020-02-03 at 23.22.54.png](./Screenshot_2020-02-03_at_23.22.54.png) @@ -115,7 +122,11 @@ To create the connection plate, acquire a square steel sheet measuring 59 inches ### Step 7: Sand the mould edges -The mold will be more user-friendly if you sand the sharp edges, as CNC-cut aluminum can be very sharp. Consider adding an inclined edge to the bottom part to facilitate opening and closing. It's essential to sand and polish the inside for a clean product finish. A polished mold yields a high-quality product, whereas an unpolished one appears rough. Use a wooden block with sandpaper to maintain straight sanding. Begin with 120-grit paper and double the grit size with each step (120, 240, 440, etc., up to 2000). Clean the mold with a cloth to remove aluminum dust—do not blow it out as it is harmful to your lungs. Follow with metal-grained steel wool and fine steel wool. Finally, polish the mold with a clean cloth and polishing paste. +The mould will be more user friendly if you sand the hard edges away, as CNC cut aluminum can be very sharp. Optionally, I would advise that you add an inclined edge to the bottom part of the mould, this will make it much easier to open and close the mould. +It is important that the inside of the mould is sanded and polished for a clean finish of the product. This will make the difference between a high quality product and a rough one. Use a wooden block with sanding paper to keep your sanding straight. Start with 120 grain size and double the amount with each step (120, 240, 440 etc. all the way up to 2000). + +Use a cloth to clean your mould from aluminium dust. Don’t blow it out of the mould this is very bad for your lungs! After, use metal grained steel wool and then fine steel wool. The last step is to polish your mould with an additional clean cloth and polishing paste. + ![DSCF8565.JPG](./DSCF8565.JPG) @@ -128,9 +139,7 @@ The mold will be more user-friendly if you sand the sharp edges, as CNC-cut alum ### Step 8: Assemble the mould -### Assembly Instructions - -After preparing the mold, assemble the components. Connect the top and bottom parts using dowel pins for alignment, and secure with bolts and nuts. Attach the connector plate to the top and bottom parts of the mold. Your setup is now complete. +You are now done with the mould’s preps and can assemble all the parts together. First connect the top and bottom part, using the dowel pins to help you with alignment and bolts and nuts to tighten all together. Then you can connect the connector plate to the top and bottom part of the mould. You’re now good to go. ![DSCF8719.JPG](./DSCF8719.JPG) @@ -140,7 +149,9 @@ After preparing the mold, assemble the components. Connect the top and bottom pa ### Step 9: Get yo plastic! -Use PP, HDPE, LDPE, or PS, with PP and LDPE being most successful. The standard injector's maximum capacity is 150g (5.29 oz). +Use PP, HDPE, LDPE or PS (you probably will have most success with PP or LDPE). +The maximum amount that can be used for the standard injector is 150g. + ![DSCF8798.JPG](./DSCF8798.JPG) @@ -153,19 +164,12 @@ Use PP, HDPE, LDPE, or PS, with PP and LDPE being most successful. The standard ### Step 10: oh man! Injection time! -### Injection Process Guidelines +Fully fill the injector with material, but be careful not to overfill as this can lead to plastic glueing to the hopper or outside of the injector. Set your temperature based on the correct melting temperatures for your plastic type. It’s good to make the lower heating element slightly hotter than the upper, to avoid solidification of the plastic. +Move the injector lever up and down to push the material deeper into the barrel. Afterwards add more material, and leave the handle bar down to keep pressure on the plastic. After around 15 min heating lift the handle bar up and open the injector. Cut away the first drip of plastic from the barrel (might still contain some unmelted plastic), and directly screw your mould to the injector. +Wear a protective mask and eye cover, as well as heat resistant gloves during this part of the process. Safety first. +Inject your plastic by pulling down with all the pressure that you can manage, to create one continuous injection. You will need to maintain pressure for 30 seconds. Do not press in parts! If you are not sure that your strength and weight are enough, you can ask someone to help you in applying force to the injection. -1. **Material Loading**: Fill the injector entirely with material, avoiding overfilling to prevent it from adhering to the hopper or injector exterior. -2. **Temperature Settings**: Adjust temperature according to the specific melting point of the material. Set the lower heating element slightly hotter than the upper to prevent premature solidification. - -3. **Injector Operation**: Move the injector lever up and down to push the material into the barrel. Add more material as needed and keep the handle down to maintain pressure. - -4. **Heating and Preparation**: After approximately 15 minutes of heating, lift the handle and open the injector. Trim any initial plastic drippings which may contain unmelted material and attach your mold to the injector. - -5. **Safety Precautions**: Use a protective mask, eye cover, and heat-resistant gloves during this process to ensure safety. - -6. **Plastic Injection**: Use maximum force to pull down the injector handle and achieve a continuous injection, maintaining pressure for 30 seconds. Avoid segmented pressing. If additional force is required, seek assistance. ![DSCF8855.JPG](./DSCF8855.JPG) @@ -178,7 +182,7 @@ Use PP, HDPE, LDPE, or PS, with PP and LDPE being most successful. The standard ### Step 11: Discover your creation -Keep the handlebar lowered. Quickly remove the mold from the injection barrel and re-seal the injector's connection point to prevent leakage. Use water to accelerate cooling. Once the mold has cooled, unscrew the bolts to open it. Use a hammer and pin to remove the plate via the nozzle connector at the top. +Keep the handle bar down. Quickly unscrew your mould from the injection barrel, and re-plug the connection point on the injector, so that no plastic leaks out. By applying water you can speed up the cooling process. When the mould is cooled open the two sides of your mould by unscrewing the bolts. Use a hammer and pin (like your bold for example), to hammer out the plate through the nozzle connector on the top. ![DSCF8889.JPG](./DSCF8889.JPG) @@ -191,10 +195,12 @@ Keep the handlebar lowered. Quickly remove the mold from the injection barrel an ### Step 12: Finish the plate -Trim the excess material at the injection point using sharp pliers. Sand any uneven areas for a smooth finish, using a machine or by hand if preferred. +Cut away the excess material at the injection point with some sharp plier. Sand the uneven areas to give it a clean finish. For this you can use a machine or your bare hands(if you dare to). + *Disclaimer: -As the source of the plastics cannot be fully verified, avoid consuming food from this plate unless a lacquer is applied to the surface. +Due to no full possible verification of the plastics sources +do not eat food from this plate unless you applied a lacquer to the surface. ![Screenshot 2020-02-03 at 23.16.40.png](./Screenshot_2020-02-03_at_23.16.40.png) @@ -207,7 +213,12 @@ As the source of the plastics cannot be fully verified, avoid consuming food fro ### Step 13: Label your plastic! Stamp the plate! -At this stage, add a plastic type symbol to your product to identify its material composition. This aids future identification and potential reprocessing. Various techniques exist for stamping the material; for instance, we used stamps obtainable online. +Ideally, at this point you should add a plastic type symbol to your product to show what plastic is made from! +This is important so that later on people know which type it is, and it can be recycled again. +There are different techniques you can use to stamp your material. +Here we used the [filtered] stamps (You can get them online on the Bazar). + + ![labelcoin.JPG](./labelcoin.JPG) @@ -220,16 +231,19 @@ At this stage, add a plastic type symbol to your product to identify its materia ### Step 14: Finish like a heroe -### Completion Instructions +Grab yourself a well earned beer (or tea for the under 18’s...), and admire your work! +For any questions contact me on hoogewerfthomas@​gmail.com. -Enjoy a beverage of choice and appreciate your craftsmanship. For inquiries, feel free to email me at hoogewerfthomas@gmail.com or share a photo of your creation. +Or send a photo of your creation to me ;) -Witness the project in action in Panama: [Watch here](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YzjTm3FRLVY&t=5s). +Check out the real life plate execution in Panama! +youtube.com: youtube.com/watch?v=YzjTm3FRLVY&t=5s -Special thanks to Paul Denney. +*special thanks to Paul Denney! -#### Disclaimer -Since the plastic sources cannot be fully verified, avoid using the plate for food unless you apply a protective lacquer. +*****Disclaimer***** +Due to no full possible verification of the plastics sources +do not eat food from this plate unless you applied a lacquer to the surface. ![plates 660x440.jpg](./plates_660x440.jpg) @@ -241,57 +255,4 @@ Since the plastic sources cannot be fully verified, avoid using the plate for fo ![platepanama.jpg](./platepanama.jpg) ## Resources -### Tools - -- Cutting tools (pliers, drill, welder) -- Sandpaper (120–2000 grit) -- Polishing paste for metal -- Wrenches -- Stamp for plastic type - -### Machines - -- CNC milling machine ([tutorial demo](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YzjTm3FRLVY\&t=5s)) -- Injection machine -- Shredder (for plastic) - -### Materials - -- Aluminum blocks (26x26x4cm, 2 units) -- Steel sheet (min 15x15x0.5cm) -- Bolts (8mm width, 9cm length, 4 units) + nuts -- Metal dowel pins (6mm, 2 units) -- 1-inch plumbing connector - -### Software - -- CAD/CAM software (for STEP file processing) - -### Safety Gear - -- Mask with ABEC filter -- Safety glasses -- Heat-resistant gloves -- Protective mask (injection process) -- Eye cover (during operation) -## References -## Articles - -- https://www.boyiprototyping.com/injection-molding-guide/high-quality-aluminum-injection-mold-for-manufacturing/ -- https://sybridge.com/injection-molding-guide/ -- https://www.rapiddirect.com/blog/ultimate-guide-to-injection-molding/ - -## YouTube - -- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yb_kre3Zwz0 -- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dDqTGr8NW7A - -## OpenSource Designs - -- https://www.instructables.com/Making-a-Plate-From-Recycled-Plastic/ -- https://community.preciousplastic.com/library/plate-mould - -## Papers - -- https://www.lamar.edu/engineering/_files/documents/industrial/education_in_plastics_bradley_additional.pdf -- https://www.lamar.edu/engineering/_files/documents/industrial/education_in_plastics_bradley.pdf \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/plate-mould/config.json b/howtos/plate-mould/config.json index 284cde374..2e0a61727 100644 --- a/howtos/plate-mould/config.json +++ b/howtos/plate-mould/config.json @@ -22,7 +22,7 @@ "creatorCountry": null } ], - "description": "This tutorial demonstrates the creation of an aluminum mold for injecting a plate measuring 0.12 inches (3mm) in thickness. The plate is suitable for serving dry items such as nuts and various objects. It should not be used for direct food consumption unless a suitable coating or lacquer is applied.\n\nFor a demonstration of the plate's creation, visit: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YzjTm3FRLVY&t=5s\n\nSpecial thanks to Paul Denney.", + "description": "In this awsome \"How To\" you will make an aluminium mould for injecting a plate (3mm thickness) from recycled plastic.\n\nCan be used for serving dry food like nuts or for objects :)\nShould not be used for eating purposes - only if you apply a correct coating or lacquer!\n\nCheck out the real life plate execution here: https://www.youtube.com/watch? v=YzjTm3FRLVY&t=5s \n\nThis product rocks!\n*special thanks to Paul Denney!", "caption": "plate injection mould ", "fileLink": "", "files": [ @@ -68,7 +68,7 @@ "alt": "Screenshot 2020-02-03 at 23.27.49.png" } ], - "text": "## Tools Required:\n\n- CNC machine\n- Cutting tools (pliers, drill, welder)\n- Safety gear (mask with ABEC filter, gloves, glasses)\n- Scale\n- Sandpaper\n- Polishing paste (for metal)\n- 4 bolts (0.31 inches width, min length 3.54 inches) + nuts\n- 2 metal dowel pins (0.24 inches example)\n- Drill bits (0.31 inches and 0.24 inches)\n- Wrenches\n- 2 aluminum blocks (10.24x10.24x1.57 inches)\n- Metal sheet (min 5.91x5.91x0.20 inches)\n- 1-inch plumbing connector\n- Stamp for plastic type\n\n## Machines Required:\n\n- Injection machine\n- Shredder (or shredded plastic)", + "text": "Tools needed:\n- CNC, tools to cut (cutting plier), drill and welder - Mask with ABEC filter, gloves, glasses\n- scale, sanding paper, polishing paste (for metal) - 4 bolts of 8m width, min length 9 cm + nuts\n- 2 metal dowel pins (6m example)\n- 8m + 6m drill bit\n- wrenches\n- 2 aluminium blocks 26x26x4cm,\n- metal sheet min 15x15x0.5cm\n- plumbing connector 1 inch,\n- [filtered] stamp for your plastic type\nMachines needed: Injection machine and a shredder (or shredded plastic)", "_animationKey": "unique1" }, { @@ -98,7 +98,7 @@ "alt": "connector + bolds.jpg" } ], - "text": "To create a plate using the injection machine, a three-part mold is necessary: a bottom part and a top part, both made of aluminum, and a connector part made of steel. The top and bottom parts will be CNC-milled from aluminum blocks, while the connector part will be fabricated manually.", + "text": "As we will make this plate with the injection machine, we need to make the mould for it. It will be made of 3 parts: Bottom and top part out of aluminium. And next is the connector part made from steel.\nThe top and bottom part will be CNC-milled out of two blocks of aluminium while we’ll make the connector part manually. ", "_animationKey": "unique2", "caption": "mould, connector", "title": "The mould" @@ -120,11 +120,11 @@ "alt": "Screenshot 2020-02-03 at 23.13.17.png" } ], - "text": "## CNC Milling Instructions\n\nBegin with the CNC milling process. Download the attached STEP file and use it to mill two separate aluminum blocks. Each block should measure at least 10.24 inches x 10.24 inches x 1.57 inches (26 cm x 26 cm x 4 cm). Note: The maximum width for molds is 11.02 inches (28 cm).\n\nThe STEP file includes six reference points to aid in accurately drilling the aluminum blocks. If a CNC milling machine is unavailable, you may send the files to a CNC service provider, keeping in mind this option may incur higher costs and extended time.\n\nAfter the mold is cut, polish it to achieve a high-quality surface finish. You may do this yourself or request the CNC service provider to perform the polishing.", + "text": "Let’s start with the CNC part. \nDownload the attached STEP file and CNC-mill them into the 2 separate aluminium blocks both equal sized of minimum size 26cm x 26cm x 4cm. (Note: The standard [filtered] Injection machine limits the max width for moulds to 28cm).\n\nThe step file includes 6 reference points to be milled. These points make it easy to manually drill on the exact location of the aluminium blocks. If you are not lucky enough to have access to a CNC milling machine, you can send the files to a CNC cutting company (consider that this will be more expensive and will probably take longer).\n\nOnce the mould is cut, polish the mould to achieve a high quality surface for your product. You can do that yourself or ask the CNC cutting company to polish the mould for you.\n\n*special thanks to Friedrich\n", "_animationKey": "unique3" }, { - "text": "We need to create holes in the mould parts. There are two types of holes required, making a total of six holes, excluding the injection hole, which will be addressed later.\n\nFirst, drill two halfway holes on the inner sides of the aluminum (aluminium) blocks to accommodate metal dowel pins. These pins ensure the mould aligns correctly during injection. Drill holes corresponding to the dowel pin size you are using. For instance, if using 0.25 inches (6 mm) pins, drill accordingly. The mould will open and close more easily with use.\n\nNext, drill four holes at the corners of the aluminum (aluminium) blocks for bolts and nuts to secure the mould. Use the marked drill indicators or align the mould properly to ensure correctness.", + "text": "Now the mould parts need holes. We have to make 2 types of holes. Total will be 6. (the injection hole comes later)\n\nFirst we drill 2 halfway holes on both inner sides of the aluminium blocks to fit 2 metal dowel pins in there. These pins make sure your mould is always aligned straight when you are injecting. (see first image) Drill the hole size according to the dowel pin size you have. I used 6m width. Drill the holes on both sides half way. \nAfter opening and closing the mould more often the opening and closing will become more easy. \n\nThen 4 holes are needed to connect and close the mould with bolts and nuts. Drill 4 holes on the 4 corners of the aluminium blocks. Use the pre marked drill indicators ór close the mould straight\n", "images": [ { "updated": "2020-02-03T22:28:21.230Z", @@ -169,7 +169,7 @@ }, { "_animationKey": "uniquew9c2t", - "text": "Drill a hole (0.51 inches) in the center of the bottom mold part with a 13mm bit. This facilitates the flow of plastic from the injection machine into the mold. A central drill indicator is available in the STEP file.", + "text": "Using a 13mm bit, drill a hole in the center of the bottom mould part. This is where the plastic will flow into the mould, out of the injection machine. The center drill indicator is also included in the STEP file. ", "images": [ { "fullPath": "uploads/v3_howtos/gbBJStZA3tVZhbj7QULM/Screenshot 2020-02-03 at 23.25.12.png", @@ -202,7 +202,7 @@ { "_animationKey": "unique5ripi", "caption": "nozzle weld", - "text": "To create the connection plate, acquire a square steel sheet measuring 59 inches by 59 inches (150 cm x 150 cm) with a minimum thickness of 0.2 inches (0.5 cm) and a nozzle compatible with your injection machine (e.g., 1/2 inch BSP type). Verify the connection types for the injector. Mark the centers for the holes following the drawing and drill accordingly. Position the nozzle over the 0.5-inch (13 mm) hole and weld it securely to the plate, ensuring it is precisely centered to facilitate attaching the mold and optimizing plastic flow. Precise alignment with the mold and injection machine is crucial, so maintain accuracy throughout the process.", + "text": "To make the connection plate, we need a square steel sheet of 150cm x 150cm (minimum 0.5cm thick) and a nozzle which fits your injection machine (here: 1/2 inch - BSP - type). Check the connection types of the injector. youtu.be: youtu.be/qtZv96ciFIU?t=255 \nMark the center points for the holes according to the drawing and drill the holes. \nThen place the nozzle on top of the 13mm hole and weld it to the plate. Make sure to place it exactly in the center, this will help screwing the mould to the injector easily, and make the plastic flow through more fluently. \nThis part needs to align perfectly to the rest of the mould and the injection machine, so try to work as precisely as possible.\n", "title": "Make the connector plate", "images": [ { @@ -244,7 +244,7 @@ ] }, { - "text": "The mold will be more user-friendly if you sand the sharp edges, as CNC-cut aluminum can be very sharp. Consider adding an inclined edge to the bottom part to facilitate opening and closing. It's essential to sand and polish the inside for a clean product finish. A polished mold yields a high-quality product, whereas an unpolished one appears rough. Use a wooden block with sandpaper to maintain straight sanding. Begin with 120-grit paper and double the grit size with each step (120, 240, 440, etc., up to 2000). Clean the mold with a cloth to remove aluminum dust—do not blow it out as it is harmful to your lungs. Follow with metal-grained steel wool and fine steel wool. Finally, polish the mold with a clean cloth and polishing paste.", + "text": "The mould will be more user friendly if you sand the hard edges away, as CNC cut aluminum can be very sharp. Optionally, I would advise that you add an inclined edge to the bottom part of the mould, this will make it much easier to open and close the mould.\nIt is important that the inside of the mould is sanded and polished for a clean finish of the product. This will make the difference between a high quality product and a rough one. Use a wooden block with sanding paper to keep your sanding straight. Start with 120 grain size and double the amount with each step (120, 240, 440 etc. all the way up to 2000). \n\nUse a cloth to clean your mould from aluminium dust. Don’t blow it out of the mould this is very bad for your lungs! After, use metal grained steel wool and then fine steel wool. The last step is to polish your mould with an additional clean cloth and polishing paste.\n", "images": [ { "type": "image/jpeg", @@ -317,7 +317,7 @@ ], "_animationKey": "uniquemnr48o", "title": "Assemble the mould ", - "text": "### Assembly Instructions\n\nAfter preparing the mold, assemble the components. Connect the top and bottom parts using dowel pins for alignment, and secure with bolts and nuts. Attach the connector plate to the top and bottom parts of the mold. Your setup is now complete." + "text": "You are now done with the mould’s preps and can assemble all the parts together. First connect the top and bottom part, using the dowel pins to help you with alignment and bolts and nuts to tighten all together. Then you can connect the connector plate to the top and bottom part of the mould. You’re now good to go. " }, { "images": [ @@ -361,10 +361,10 @@ "caption": "granulate ", "_animationKey": "uniquepwzo3a", "title": "Get yo plastic!", - "text": "Use PP, HDPE, LDPE, or PS, with PP and LDPE being most successful. The standard injector's maximum capacity is 150g (5.29 oz)." + "text": "Use PP, HDPE, LDPE or PS (you probably will have most success with PP or LDPE).\nThe maximum amount that can be used for the standard injector is 150g.\n" }, { - "text": "### Injection Process Guidelines\n\n1. **Material Loading**: Fill the injector entirely with material, avoiding overfilling to prevent it from adhering to the hopper or injector exterior.\n\n2. **Temperature Settings**: Adjust temperature according to the specific melting point of the material. Set the lower heating element slightly hotter than the upper to prevent premature solidification.\n\n3. **Injector Operation**: Move the injector lever up and down to push the material into the barrel. Add more material as needed and keep the handle down to maintain pressure. \n\n4. **Heating and Preparation**: After approximately 15 minutes of heating, lift the handle and open the injector. Trim any initial plastic drippings which may contain unmelted material and attach your mold to the injector.\n\n5. **Safety Precautions**: Use a protective mask, eye cover, and heat-resistant gloves during this process to ensure safety.\n\n6. **Plastic Injection**: Use maximum force to pull down the injector handle and achieve a continuous injection, maintaining pressure for 30 seconds. Avoid segmented pressing. If additional force is required, seek assistance.", + "text": "Fully fill the injector with material, but be careful not to overfill as this can lead to plastic glueing to the hopper or outside of the injector. Set your temperature based on the correct melting temperatures for your plastic type. It’s good to make the lower heating element slightly hotter than the upper, to avoid solidification of the plastic. \nMove the injector lever up and down to push the material deeper into the barrel. Afterwards add more material, and leave the handle bar down to keep pressure on the plastic. After around 15 min heating lift the handle bar up and open the injector. Cut away the first drip of plastic from the barrel (might still contain some unmelted plastic), and directly screw your mould to the injector. \nWear a protective mask and eye cover, as well as heat resistant gloves during this part of the process. Safety first.\nInject your plastic by pulling down with all the pressure that you can manage, to create one continuous injection. You will need to maintain pressure for 30 seconds. Do not press in parts! If you are not sure that your strength and weight are enough, you can ask someone to help you in applying force to the injection. \n\n", "caption": "injection pressing", "_animationKey": "uniqueart8g", "title": "oh man! Injection time! ", @@ -447,7 +447,7 @@ "alt": "DSCF8907.JPG" } ], - "text": "Keep the handlebar lowered. Quickly remove the mold from the injection barrel and re-seal the injector's connection point to prevent leakage. Use water to accelerate cooling. Once the mold has cooled, unscrew the bolts to open it. Use a hammer and pin to remove the plate via the nozzle connector at the top.", + "text": "Keep the handle bar down. Quickly unscrew your mould from the injection barrel, and re-plug the connection point on the injector, so that no plastic leaks out. By applying water you can speed up the cooling process. When the mould is cooled open the two sides of your mould by unscrewing the bolts. Use a hammer and pin (like your bold for example), to hammer out the plate through the nozzle connector on the top. ", "caption": "removing mould object", "title": "Discover your creation" }, @@ -493,10 +493,10 @@ ], "caption": "finishing", "_animationKey": "uniqueunrrmg", - "text": "Trim the excess material at the injection point using sharp pliers. Sand any uneven areas for a smooth finish, using a machine or by hand if preferred.\n\n*Disclaimer: \nAs the source of the plastics cannot be fully verified, avoid consuming food from this plate unless a lacquer is applied to the surface." + "text": "Cut away the excess material at the injection point with some sharp plier. Sand the uneven areas to give it a clean finish. For this you can use a machine or your bare hands(if you dare to).\n\n\n*Disclaimer: \nDue to no full possible verification of the plastics sources\ndo not eat food from this plate unless you applied a lacquer to the surface." }, { - "text": "At this stage, add a plastic type symbol to your product to identify its material composition. This aids future identification and potential reprocessing. Various techniques exist for stamping the material; for instance, we used stamps obtainable online.", + "text": "Ideally, at this point you should add a plastic type symbol to your product to show what plastic is made from!\nThis is important so that later on people know which type it is, and it can be recycled again.\nThere are different techniques you can use to stamp your material. \nHere we used the [filtered] stamps (You can get them online on the Bazar).\n\n", "images": [ { "type": "image/jpeg", @@ -540,7 +540,7 @@ "_animationKey": "uniquenpn2vc" }, { - "text": "### Completion Instructions\n\nEnjoy a beverage of choice and appreciate your craftsmanship. For inquiries, feel free to email me at hoogewerfthomas@gmail.com or share a photo of your creation.\n\nWitness the project in action in Panama: [Watch here](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YzjTm3FRLVY&t=5s).\n\nSpecial thanks to Paul Denney.\n\n#### Disclaimer\nSince the plastic sources cannot be fully verified, avoid using the plate for food unless you apply a protective lacquer.", + "text": "Grab yourself a well earned beer (or tea for the under 18’s...), and admire your work! \nFor any questions contact me on hoogewerfthomas@​gmail.com. \t\t\n\nOr send a photo of your creation to me ;) \n\nCheck out the real life plate execution in Panama!\nyoutube.com: youtube.com/watch?v=YzjTm3FRLVY&t=5s\n\n*special thanks to Paul Denney!\n\n*****Disclaimer*****\nDue to no full possible verification of the plastics sources\ndo not eat food from this plate unless you applied a lacquer to the surface.", "title": "Finish like a heroe", "images": [ { @@ -828,9 +828,5 @@ "urls": [] } }, - "content": "This tutorial demonstrates the creation of an aluminum mold for injecting a plate measuring 0.12 inches (3mm) in thickness. The plate is suitable for serving dry items such as nuts and various objects. It should not be used for direct food consumption unless a suitable coating or lacquer is applied.\n\nFor a demonstration of the plate's creation, visit: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YzjTm3FRLVY&t=5s\n\nSpecial thanks to Paul Denney.\n\n\nUser Location: Amsterdam, Netherlands (Kingdom of the)\n\n## Tools Required:\n\n- CNC machine\n- Cutting tools (pliers, drill, welder)\n- Safety gear (mask with ABEC filter, gloves, glasses)\n- Scale\n- Sandpaper\n- Polishing paste (for metal)\n- 4 bolts (0.31 inches width, min length 3.54 inches) + nuts\n- 2 metal dowel pins (0.24 inches example)\n- Drill bits (0.31 inches and 0.24 inches)\n- Wrenches\n- 2 aluminum blocks (10.24x10.24x1.57 inches)\n- Metal sheet (min 5.91x5.91x0.20 inches)\n- 1-inch plumbing connector\n- Stamp for plastic type\n\n## Machines Required:\n\n- Injection machine\n- Shredder (or shredded plastic)\n\nTo create a plate using the injection machine, a three-part mold is necessary: a bottom part and a top part, both made of aluminum, and a connector part made of steel. The top and bottom parts will be CNC-milled from aluminum blocks, while the connector part will be fabricated manually.\n\n## CNC Milling Instructions\n\nBegin with the CNC milling process. Download the attached STEP file and use it to mill two separate aluminum blocks. Each block should measure at least 10.24 inches x 10.24 inches x 1.57 inches (26 cm x 26 cm x 4 cm). Note: The maximum width for molds is 11.02 inches (28 cm).\n\nThe STEP file includes six reference points to aid in accurately drilling the aluminum blocks. If a CNC milling machine is unavailable, you may send the files to a CNC service provider, keeping in mind this option may incur higher costs and extended time.\n\nAfter the mold is cut, polish it to achieve a high-quality surface finish. You may do this yourself or request the CNC service provider to perform the polishing.\n\nWe need to create holes in the mould parts. There are two types of holes required, making a total of six holes, excluding the injection hole, which will be addressed later.\n\nFirst, drill two halfway holes on the inner sides of the aluminum (aluminium) blocks to accommodate metal dowel pins. These pins ensure the mould aligns correctly during injection. Drill holes corresponding to the dowel pin size you are using. For instance, if using 0.25 inches (6 mm) pins, drill accordingly. The mould will open and close more easily with use.\n\nNext, drill four holes at the corners of the aluminum (aluminium) blocks for bolts and nuts to secure the mould. Use the marked drill indicators or align the mould properly to ensure correctness.\n\nDrill a hole (0.51 inches) in the center of the bottom mold part with a 13mm bit. This facilitates the flow of plastic from the injection machine into the mold. A central drill indicator is available in the STEP file.\n\nTo create the connection plate, acquire a square steel sheet measuring 59 inches by 59 inches (150 cm x 150 cm) with a minimum thickness of 0.2 inches (0.5 cm) and a nozzle compatible with your injection machine (e.g., 1/2 inch BSP type). Verify the connection types for the injector. Mark the centers for the holes following the drawing and drill accordingly. Position the nozzle over the 0.5-inch (13 mm) hole and weld it securely to the plate, ensuring it is precisely centered to facilitate attaching the mold and optimizing plastic flow. Precise alignment with the mold and injection machine is crucial, so maintain accuracy throughout the process.\n\nThe mold will be more user-friendly if you sand the sharp edges, as CNC-cut aluminum can be very sharp. Consider adding an inclined edge to the bottom part to facilitate opening and closing. It's essential to sand and polish the inside for a clean product finish. A polished mold yields a high-quality product, whereas an unpolished one appears rough. Use a wooden block with sandpaper to maintain straight sanding. Begin with 120-grit paper and double the grit size with each step (120, 240, 440, etc., up to 2000). Clean the mold with a cloth to remove aluminum dust—do not blow it out as it is harmful to your lungs. Follow with metal-grained steel wool and fine steel wool. Finally, polish the mold with a clean cloth and polishing paste.\n\n### Assembly Instructions\n\nAfter preparing the mold, assemble the components. Connect the top and bottom parts using dowel pins for alignment, and secure with bolts and nuts. Attach the connector plate to the top and bottom parts of the mold. Your setup is now complete.\n\nUse PP, HDPE, LDPE, or PS, with PP and LDPE being most successful. The standard injector's maximum capacity is 150g (5.29 oz).\n\n### Injection Process Guidelines\n\n1. **Material Loading**: Fill the injector entirely with material, avoiding overfilling to prevent it from adhering to the hopper or injector exterior.\n\n2. **Temperature Settings**: Adjust temperature according to the specific melting point of the material. Set the lower heating element slightly hotter than the upper to prevent premature solidification.\n\n3. **Injector Operation**: Move the injector lever up and down to push the material into the barrel. Add more material as needed and keep the handle down to maintain pressure. \n\n4. **Heating and Preparation**: After approximately 15 minutes of heating, lift the handle and open the injector. Trim any initial plastic drippings which may contain unmelted material and attach your mold to the injector.\n\n5. **Safety Precautions**: Use a protective mask, eye cover, and heat-resistant gloves during this process to ensure safety.\n\n6. **Plastic Injection**: Use maximum force to pull down the injector handle and achieve a continuous injection, maintaining pressure for 30 seconds. Avoid segmented pressing. If additional force is required, seek assistance.\n\nKeep the handlebar lowered. Quickly remove the mold from the injection barrel and re-seal the injector's connection point to prevent leakage. Use water to accelerate cooling. Once the mold has cooled, unscrew the bolts to open it. Use a hammer and pin to remove the plate via the nozzle connector at the top.\n\nTrim the excess material at the injection point using sharp pliers. Sand any uneven areas for a smooth finish, using a machine or by hand if preferred.\n\n*Disclaimer: \nAs the source of the plastics cannot be fully verified, avoid consuming food from this plate unless a lacquer is applied to the surface.\n\nAt this stage, add a plastic type symbol to your product to identify its material composition. This aids future identification and potential reprocessing. Various techniques exist for stamping the material; for instance, we used stamps obtainable online.\n\n### Completion Instructions\n\nEnjoy a beverage of choice and appreciate your craftsmanship. For inquiries, feel free to email me at hoogewerfthomas@gmail.com or share a photo of your creation.\n\nWitness the project in action in Panama: [Watch here](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YzjTm3FRLVY&t=5s).\n\nSpecial thanks to Paul Denney.\n\n#### Disclaimer\nSince the plastic sources cannot be fully verified, avoid using the plate for food unless you apply a protective lacquer.", - "keywords": "aluminum mold creation, injection molding guide, CNC milling tutorial, plastic injection techniques, aluminum plate crafting, DIY mold making, CNC machine use, injection molding safety, metal polishing tips, non-food safe molds", - "resources": "### Tools\n\n- Cutting tools (pliers, drill, welder)\n- Sandpaper (120–2000 grit)\n- Polishing paste for metal\n- Wrenches\n- Stamp for plastic type\n\n### Machines\n\n- CNC milling machine ([tutorial demo](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YzjTm3FRLVY\\&t=5s))\n- Injection machine\n- Shredder (for plastic)\n\n### Materials\n\n- Aluminum blocks (26x26x4cm, 2 units)\n- Steel sheet (min 15x15x0.5cm)\n- Bolts (8mm width, 9cm length, 4 units) + nuts\n- Metal dowel pins (6mm, 2 units)\n- 1-inch plumbing connector\n\n### Software\n\n- CAD/CAM software (for STEP file processing)\n\n### Safety Gear\n\n- Mask with ABEC filter\n- Safety glasses\n- Heat-resistant gloves\n- Protective mask (injection process)\n- Eye cover (during operation)", - "references": "## Articles\n\n- https://www.boyiprototyping.com/injection-molding-guide/high-quality-aluminum-injection-mold-for-manufacturing/\n- https://sybridge.com/injection-molding-guide/\n- https://www.rapiddirect.com/blog/ultimate-guide-to-injection-molding/\n\n## YouTube\n\n- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yb_kre3Zwz0\n- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dDqTGr8NW7A\n\n## OpenSource Designs\n\n- https://www.instructables.com/Making-a-Plate-From-Recycled-Plastic/\n- https://community.preciousplastic.com/library/plate-mould\n\n## Papers\n\n- https://www.lamar.edu/engineering/_files/documents/industrial/education_in_plastics_bradley_additional.pdf\n- https://www.lamar.edu/engineering/_files/documents/industrial/education_in_plastics_bradley.pdf", - "brief": "Create an aluminum mold for a non-food serving plate using CNC milling, injection techniques, and safety gear. Polish for quality finish; apply lacquer for food safety." + "content": "In this awsome \"How To\" you will make an aluminium mould for injecting a plate (3mm thickness) from recycled plastic.\n\nCan be used for serving dry food like nuts or for objects :)\nShould not be used for eating purposes - only if you apply a correct coating or lacquer!\n\nCheck out the real life plate execution here: https://www.youtube.com/watch? v=YzjTm3FRLVY&t=5s \n\nThis product rocks!\n*special thanks to Paul Denney!\n\n\nUser Location: Amsterdam, Netherlands (Kingdom of the)\n\nTools needed:\n- CNC, tools to cut (cutting plier), drill and welder - Mask with ABEC filter, gloves, glasses\n- scale, sanding paper, polishing paste (for metal) - 4 bolts of 8m width, min length 9 cm + nuts\n- 2 metal dowel pins (6m example)\n- 8m + 6m drill bit\n- wrenches\n- 2 aluminium blocks 26x26x4cm,\n- metal sheet min 15x15x0.5cm\n- plumbing connector 1 inch,\n- [filtered] stamp for your plastic type\nMachines needed: Injection machine and a shredder (or shredded plastic)\n\nAs we will make this plate with the injection machine, we need to make the mould for it. It will be made of 3 parts: Bottom and top part out of aluminium. And next is the connector part made from steel.\nThe top and bottom part will be CNC-milled out of two blocks of aluminium while we’ll make the connector part manually. \n\nLet’s start with the CNC part. \nDownload the attached STEP file and CNC-mill them into the 2 separate aluminium blocks both equal sized of minimum size 26cm x 26cm x 4cm. (Note: The standard [filtered] Injection machine limits the max width for moulds to 28cm).\n\nThe step file includes 6 reference points to be milled. These points make it easy to manually drill on the exact location of the aluminium blocks. If you are not lucky enough to have access to a CNC milling machine, you can send the files to a CNC cutting company (consider that this will be more expensive and will probably take longer).\n\nOnce the mould is cut, polish the mould to achieve a high quality surface for your product. You can do that yourself or ask the CNC cutting company to polish the mould for you.\n\n*special thanks to Friedrich\n\n\nNow the mould parts need holes. We have to make 2 types of holes. Total will be 6. (the injection hole comes later)\n\nFirst we drill 2 halfway holes on both inner sides of the aluminium blocks to fit 2 metal dowel pins in there. These pins make sure your mould is always aligned straight when you are injecting. (see first image) Drill the hole size according to the dowel pin size you have. I used 6m width. Drill the holes on both sides half way. \nAfter opening and closing the mould more often the opening and closing will become more easy. \n\nThen 4 holes are needed to connect and close the mould with bolts and nuts. Drill 4 holes on the 4 corners of the aluminium blocks. Use the pre marked drill indicators ór close the mould straight\n\n\nUsing a 13mm bit, drill a hole in the center of the bottom mould part. This is where the plastic will flow into the mould, out of the injection machine. The center drill indicator is also included in the STEP file. \n\nTo make the connection plate, we need a square steel sheet of 150cm x 150cm (minimum 0.5cm thick) and a nozzle which fits your injection machine (here: 1/2 inch - BSP - type). Check the connection types of the injector. youtu.be: youtu.be/qtZv96ciFIU?t=255 \nMark the center points for the holes according to the drawing and drill the holes. \nThen place the nozzle on top of the 13mm hole and weld it to the plate. Make sure to place it exactly in the center, this will help screwing the mould to the injector easily, and make the plastic flow through more fluently. \nThis part needs to align perfectly to the rest of the mould and the injection machine, so try to work as precisely as possible.\n\n\nThe mould will be more user friendly if you sand the hard edges away, as CNC cut aluminum can be very sharp. Optionally, I would advise that you add an inclined edge to the bottom part of the mould, this will make it much easier to open and close the mould.\nIt is important that the inside of the mould is sanded and polished for a clean finish of the product. This will make the difference between a high quality product and a rough one. Use a wooden block with sanding paper to keep your sanding straight. Start with 120 grain size and double the amount with each step (120, 240, 440 etc. all the way up to 2000). \n\nUse a cloth to clean your mould from aluminium dust. Don’t blow it out of the mould this is very bad for your lungs! After, use metal grained steel wool and then fine steel wool. The last step is to polish your mould with an additional clean cloth and polishing paste.\n\n\nYou are now done with the mould’s preps and can assemble all the parts together. First connect the top and bottom part, using the dowel pins to help you with alignment and bolts and nuts to tighten all together. Then you can connect the connector plate to the top and bottom part of the mould. You’re now good to go. \n\nUse PP, HDPE, LDPE or PS (you probably will have most success with PP or LDPE).\nThe maximum amount that can be used for the standard injector is 150g.\n\n\nFully fill the injector with material, but be careful not to overfill as this can lead to plastic glueing to the hopper or outside of the injector. Set your temperature based on the correct melting temperatures for your plastic type. It’s good to make the lower heating element slightly hotter than the upper, to avoid solidification of the plastic. \nMove the injector lever up and down to push the material deeper into the barrel. Afterwards add more material, and leave the handle bar down to keep pressure on the plastic. After around 15 min heating lift the handle bar up and open the injector. Cut away the first drip of plastic from the barrel (might still contain some unmelted plastic), and directly screw your mould to the injector. \nWear a protective mask and eye cover, as well as heat resistant gloves during this part of the process. Safety first.\nInject your plastic by pulling down with all the pressure that you can manage, to create one continuous injection. You will need to maintain pressure for 30 seconds. Do not press in parts! If you are not sure that your strength and weight are enough, you can ask someone to help you in applying force to the injection. \n\n\n\nKeep the handle bar down. Quickly unscrew your mould from the injection barrel, and re-plug the connection point on the injector, so that no plastic leaks out. By applying water you can speed up the cooling process. When the mould is cooled open the two sides of your mould by unscrewing the bolts. Use a hammer and pin (like your bold for example), to hammer out the plate through the nozzle connector on the top. \n\nCut away the excess material at the injection point with some sharp plier. Sand the uneven areas to give it a clean finish. For this you can use a machine or your bare hands(if you dare to).\n\n\n*Disclaimer: \nDue to no full possible verification of the plastics sources\ndo not eat food from this plate unless you applied a lacquer to the surface.\n\nIdeally, at this point you should add a plastic type symbol to your product to show what plastic is made from!\nThis is important so that later on people know which type it is, and it can be recycled again.\nThere are different techniques you can use to stamp your material. \nHere we used the [filtered] stamps (You can get them online on the Bazar).\n\n\n\nGrab yourself a well earned beer (or tea for the under 18’s...), and admire your work! \nFor any questions contact me on hoogewerfthomas@​gmail.com. \t\t\n\nOr send a photo of your creation to me ;) \n\nCheck out the real life plate execution in Panama!\nyoutube.com: youtube.com/watch?v=YzjTm3FRLVY&t=5s\n\n*special thanks to Paul Denney!\n\n*****Disclaimer*****\nDue to no full possible verification of the plastics sources\ndo not eat food from this plate unless you applied a lacquer to the surface." } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/polygonal-mould-for-sheet-press/README.md b/howtos/polygonal-mould-for-sheet-press/README.md index ebc814a78..95d33ba6c 100644 --- a/howtos/polygonal-mould-for-sheet-press/README.md +++ b/howtos/polygonal-mould-for-sheet-press/README.md @@ -1,45 +1,52 @@ --- title: Polygonal mould for sheet press slug: polygonal-mould-for-sheet-press -description: Plastic sheets created with a sheet press need not be square. +description: Plastic sheets made with sheet press don't need to be square. -Here, we demonstrate how to make an octagonal mold for octagonal plastic sheets. These techniques can be used to create any polygonal mold, such as triangular or hexagonal. +Here we are showing you how to create octagonal mould to create octagonal plastic sheets. The same methods can be applied to create any polygonal mould for the sheetpress (triangle, hexagonal, etc) -For further guidance, feel free to contact us with any questions or suggestions regarding the mold. +You can watch the full video tutorial on precious plastic’s youtube channel here: +https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WSZq_9a-XMQ&t=81s + +Don't hesitate to contact us if you have any questions and suggestions for the mould. You can click on our precious plastic profile for the contact information tags: ["sheetpress","mould"] category: Moulds difficulty: Medium time: < 1 day -keywords: octagonal plastic sheets, polygonal mold creation, sheet press techniques, welding materials for molds, galvanized steel molds, angle grinder usage, plastic sheet production, polygon template drawing, sheet press setup, plastic molding guide +keywords: location: Sukawati, Indonesia --- # Polygonal mould for sheet press ![Polygonal mould for sheet press](Screenshot_3-18551b60d58-187bbbca774.png) -Plastic sheets created with a sheet press need not be square. +Plastic sheets made with sheet press don't need to be square. -Here, we demonstrate how to make an octagonal mold for octagonal plastic sheets. These techniques can be used to create any polygonal mold, such as triangular or hexagonal. +Here we are showing you how to create octagonal mould to create octagonal plastic sheets. The same methods can be applied to create any polygonal mould for the sheetpress (triangle, hexagonal, etc) -For further guidance, feel free to contact us with any questions or suggestions regarding the mold. +You can watch the full video tutorial on precious plastic’s youtube channel here: +https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WSZq_9a-XMQ&t=81s + +Don't hesitate to contact us if you have any questions and suggestions for the mould. You can click on our precious plastic profile for the contact information User Location: Sukawati, Indonesia ## Steps ### Step 1: Gather tools and material -### Tools -- Sheet press set -- Angle grinder -- Welding tools and materials -- Jigsaw -- Sander (for product finishing) -- Safety gear: welding helmet, safety glasses, mask -- Marker -- Ruler +Tools: -- Computer with drafting/drawing software +Sheet press set +Angle grinder +Welding tools and materials +Jigsaw +Sander (for product finishing) +Safety gears: welding helmet, safety glasses, mask +Marker +Ruler -### Materials -- Steel for mold: 0.79 x 0.79 inches (2x2 cm) galvanized steel (standard size = 19.7 ft) -- Clean, sorted plastic, type optional +Computer with drafting/drawing software + +Material +Steel for mold: 2x2cm galvanised steel (standard size =6m) +Clean, sorted plastic with types of your choice ![Screenshot_20221228_035519-18557c81e43 (1)-187bbb8d51c.png](./Screenshot_20221228_035519-18557c81e43_1-187bbb8d51c.png) @@ -49,28 +56,30 @@ User Location: Sukawati, Indonesia ### Step 2: Draw -Draw the polygon in your preferred drafting software to obtain precise dimensions for each side. +Draw the polygon in any drafting software of your choice. This will give you precise information on the dimension of the individual parts/side of the polygon. We have included our drawing in the drive link above for reference -Measure your sheet press work area. +Draw the measurement of your sheepress work area -Offset by 2 inches (5 cm) inward for space around the mold. +Offset by 5 cm inwards (space needed around the mould) -Design the polygon based on your machine's capacity. +Draw polygon according to the area capacity of your sheet press machines -Offset by 0.8 inches (2 cm) inward for the steel thickness. +Offset by 2 cm inwards (thickness of the galvanise steel) -Use the drawing to measure the mold dimensions. This will aid in calculating the plastic required for sheet production. +Get measurement of dimensions of the mould from the drawing you’ve made + +this drawing would also be useful later on when you are calculating the amount of plastic you need to make the sheets. ![octagonal sheets-185529f10cc-187bbb95bc1.png](./octagonal_sheets-185529f10cc-187bbb95bc1.png) ### Step 3: Cut -After outlining and measuring, use an angle grinder to cut the 20mm (0.79 inches) hollow galvanized steel to the specified size. +After drawing and determining the measurements, cut the 20mm hollow galvanized steel according to size with an angle grinder. -Mark dimensions using an erasable marker for accuracy. -Employ an angle grinder for cutting. -Use a whiteboard marker to draw a 1:1 template of your sheets to align angles and dimensions properly, adjusting as necessary. +Draw the measurement with erasable marker for better precision +Cut with angle grinder +With whiteboard marker, draw out the 1:1 template of your sheets to make sure the angles and dimension line up and adjust accordingly ![IMG_9475-1854bee9b7e-187bbb9ad31.jpg](./IMG_9475-1854bee9b7e-187bbb9ad31.jpg) @@ -83,9 +92,10 @@ Use a whiteboard marker to draw a 1:1 template of your sheets to align angles an ### Step 4: Weld -Using a whiteboard marker, draw a full-scale template of your sheets to verify and adjust angles and dimensions as necessary. +With whiteboard marker, draw out the 1:1 template of your sheets to make sure the angles and dimension line up and adjust accordingly. + +Weld all the sides to connect the ends together to make your polygonal sheets -Weld all sides to join the ends and form your polygonal sheets. ![IMG_9771-1854d3672c3 (1)-187bbba57c8.jpg](./IMG_9771-1854d3672c3_1-187bbba57c8.jpg) @@ -98,7 +108,9 @@ Weld all sides to join the ends and form your polygonal sheets. ### Step 5: Finishing -Use an angle grinder to smooth excess welding material. This is essential to ensure the mold lies flat against the sheets, preventing damage and preventing plastic from leaking if the surface is uneven. +Grind the excess welding materials with angle grinder + +This step is crucial to make sure that the mould is completely flat against the sheets. Otherwise you will damage the steel plate and the plastic will bleed outside of the mould because it is thicker than it should be. ![Screenshot (95)-18557c67553 (1)-187bbbaf6ba.png](./Screenshot_95-18557c67553_1-187bbbaf6ba.png) @@ -111,15 +123,16 @@ Use an angle grinder to smooth excess welding material. This is essential to ens ### Step 6: Make your polygonal sheet -### How to Make a Polygonal Sheet +It's time to make your polygonal sheet. -Calculate the area of your polygon from the drawing to determine the required plastic amount. +Use the area of your polygon (from the drawing) to determine the amount of plastic needed to make the sheet -Refer to the sheet press tutorial for detailed instructions: [YouTube Video](https://youtu.be/TNG2f_hKc_A) +See [filtered] sheet press "how to" for a step by step tutorial of making a sheet: youtu.be: youtu.be/TNG2f_hKc_A -Feel free to share your experience with us. +Visit our profile and let us know if you have tried this :) + +Warmly, -Sincerely, Wedoo Team @@ -132,48 +145,4 @@ Wedoo Team ![3-1854d3a11e6-187bbbc7d72.png](./3-1854d3a11e6-187bbbc7d72.png) ## Resources -Creating an octagonal mold for plastic sheets using a sheet press requires specific tools, software, and materials. Below is a structured breakdown of the essential components needed for the project. - -### Tools - -- Sheet press set -- Angle grinder (cutting and smoothing) -- Welding tools and materials (assembly) -- Sander (product finishing) -- Safety gear: welding helmet, safety glasses, mask - -### Software - -- Drafting/drawing software (dimension planning) - -### Hardware - -- Galvanized steel (0.79 x 0.79 inches, 19.7-ft standard length) -- Clean, sorted plastic (type flexible) -- Marker and ruler (measurement marking) - -For detailed instructions, refer to the [sheet press tutorial video](https://youtu.be/TNG2f_hKc_A)[1]. -## References -### Articles - -- Polygonal mould for sheet press - [filtered] Academy -- [Custom Silicone Octagon Mold - ZSR Consumer Silicone Products](https://consumersiliconeproducts.com/custom-silicone-octagon-mold) -- [Polygon Press Mold For Lab - Kintek Solution](https://kindle-tech.com/products/polygon-press-mold) -- [Octagon Mold - Tomric Systems, Inc.](https://tomric.com/product/octagon-mold/) - -### YouTube - -- [How We Made A TINY Injection Molding Machine - YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JtcJAaYVMAg) -- [How To Make A Plastic Sheet With A Sheetpress?! | By Wedoo](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nQEvEjdvToQ) - -### Papers - -- [Part and Mold Design - LANXESS](https://techcenter.lanxess.com/scp/americas/en/docguard/Part_and_Mold_Design_Guide.pdf?docId=77015) - -### Books - -- [Hands-On Data Visualization - HandsOnDataViz.org](https://handsondataviz.org/HandsOnDataViz.pdf) - -### Opensource Designs - -- Polygonal mould for sheet press - [filtered] Academy \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/polygonal-mould-for-sheet-press/config.json b/howtos/polygonal-mould-for-sheet-press/config.json index 8bb130096..5ae480fea 100644 --- a/howtos/polygonal-mould-for-sheet-press/config.json +++ b/howtos/polygonal-mould-for-sheet-press/config.json @@ -25,7 +25,7 @@ ], "fileLink": "", "difficulty_level": "Medium", - "description": "Plastic sheets created with a sheet press need not be square.\n\nHere, we demonstrate how to make an octagonal mold for octagonal plastic sheets. These techniques can be used to create any polygonal mold, such as triangular or hexagonal.\n\nFor further guidance, feel free to contact us with any questions or suggestions regarding the mold.", + "description": "Plastic sheets made with sheet press don't need to be square.\n\nHere we are showing you how to create octagonal mould to create octagonal plastic sheets. The same methods can be applied to create any polygonal mould for the sheetpress (triangle, hexagonal, etc)\n\nYou can watch the full video tutorial on precious plastic’s youtube channel here:\nhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WSZq_9a-XMQ&t=81s\n\nDon't hesitate to contact us if you have any questions and suggestions for the mould. You can click on our precious plastic profile for the contact information", "steps": [ { "images": [ @@ -54,13 +54,13 @@ "alt": "IMG_5704-18557ab30d8 (1)-187bbb8fc4b.jpg" } ], - "text": "### Tools\n- Sheet press set\n- Angle grinder\n- Welding tools and materials\n- Jigsaw\n- Sander (for product finishing)\n- Safety gear: welding helmet, safety glasses, mask\n- Marker\n- Ruler\n\n- Computer with drafting/drawing software\n\n### Materials\n- Steel for mold: 0.79 x 0.79 inches (2x2 cm) galvanized steel (standard size = 19.7 ft)\n- Clean, sorted plastic, type optional", + "text": "Tools:\n\nSheet press set\nAngle grinder\nWelding tools and materials\nJigsaw\nSander (for product finishing)\nSafety gears: welding helmet, safety glasses, mask\nMarker\nRuler\n\nComputer with drafting/drawing software\n\nMaterial\nSteel for mold: 2x2cm galvanised steel (standard size =6m)\nClean, sorted plastic with types of your choice", "title": "Gather tools and material", "_animationKey": "unique1" }, { "_animationKey": "unique2", - "text": "Draw the polygon in your preferred drafting software to obtain precise dimensions for each side. \n\nMeasure your sheet press work area. \n\nOffset by 2 inches (5 cm) inward for space around the mold. \n\nDesign the polygon based on your machine's capacity. \n\nOffset by 0.8 inches (2 cm) inward for the steel thickness. \n\nUse the drawing to measure the mold dimensions. This will aid in calculating the plastic required for sheet production.", + "text": "Draw the polygon in any drafting software of your choice. This will give you precise information on the dimension of the individual parts/side of the polygon. We have included our drawing in the drive link above for reference\n\nDraw the measurement of your sheepress work area\n\nOffset by 5 cm inwards (space needed around the mould)\n\nDraw polygon according to the area capacity of your sheet press machines\n\nOffset by 2 cm inwards (thickness of the galvanise steel)\n\nGet measurement of dimensions of the mould from the drawing you’ve made\n\nthis drawing would also be useful later on when you are calculating the amount of plastic you need to make the sheets.", "images": [ { "updated": "2023-04-26T04:05:24.061Z", @@ -78,7 +78,7 @@ "title": "Draw" }, { - "text": "After outlining and measuring, use an angle grinder to cut the 20mm (0.79 inches) hollow galvanized steel to the specified size.\n\nMark dimensions using an erasable marker for accuracy.\nEmploy an angle grinder for cutting.\nUse a whiteboard marker to draw a 1:1 template of your sheets to align angles and dimensions properly, adjusting as necessary.", + "text": "After drawing and determining the measurements, cut the 20mm hollow galvanized steel according to size with an angle grinder.\n\nDraw the measurement with erasable marker for better precision\nCut with angle grinder\nWith whiteboard marker, draw out the 1:1 template of your sheets to make sure the angles and dimension line up and adjust accordingly", "title": "Cut", "images": [ { @@ -161,7 +161,7 @@ "alt": "Screenshot (97)-1854d36eb66-187bbba884b.png" } ], - "text": "Using a whiteboard marker, draw a full-scale template of your sheets to verify and adjust angles and dimensions as necessary.\n\nWeld all sides to join the ends and form your polygonal sheets." + "text": "With whiteboard marker, draw out the 1:1 template of your sheets to make sure the angles and dimension line up and adjust accordingly.\n\nWeld all the sides to connect the ends together to make your polygonal sheets\n" }, { "images": [ @@ -204,7 +204,7 @@ ], "title": "Finishing", "_animationKey": "unique0wz631", - "text": "Use an angle grinder to smooth excess welding material. This is essential to ensure the mold lies flat against the sheets, preventing damage and preventing plastic from leaking if the surface is uneven." + "text": "Grind the excess welding materials with angle grinder\n\nThis step is crucial to make sure that the mould is completely flat against the sheets. Otherwise you will damage the steel plate and the plastic will bleed outside of the mould because it is thicker than it should be." }, { "images": [ @@ -246,7 +246,7 @@ } ], "title": "Make your polygonal sheet", - "text": "### How to Make a Polygonal Sheet\n\nCalculate the area of your polygon from the drawing to determine the required plastic amount.\n\nRefer to the sheet press tutorial for detailed instructions: [YouTube Video](https://youtu.be/TNG2f_hKc_A)\n\nFeel free to share your experience with us.\n\nSincerely, \nWedoo Team", + "text": "It's time to make your polygonal sheet.\n\nUse the area of your polygon (from the drawing) to determine the amount of plastic needed to make the sheet\n\nSee [filtered] sheet press \"how to\" for a step by step tutorial of making a sheet: youtu.be: youtu.be/TNG2f_hKc_A\n\nVisit our profile and let us know if you have tried this :)\n\nWarmly, \n\nWedoo Team", "_animationKey": "uniquen9kvim" } ], @@ -426,9 +426,5 @@ "urls": [] } }, - "content": "Plastic sheets created with a sheet press need not be square.\n\nHere, we demonstrate how to make an octagonal mold for octagonal plastic sheets. These techniques can be used to create any polygonal mold, such as triangular or hexagonal.\n\nFor further guidance, feel free to contact us with any questions or suggestions regarding the mold.\n\n\nUser Location: Sukawati, Indonesia\n\n### Tools\n- Sheet press set\n- Angle grinder\n- Welding tools and materials\n- Jigsaw\n- Sander (for product finishing)\n- Safety gear: welding helmet, safety glasses, mask\n- Marker\n- Ruler\n\n- Computer with drafting/drawing software\n\n### Materials\n- Steel for mold: 0.79 x 0.79 inches (2x2 cm) galvanized steel (standard size = 19.7 ft)\n- Clean, sorted plastic, type optional\n\nDraw the polygon in your preferred drafting software to obtain precise dimensions for each side. \n\nMeasure your sheet press work area. \n\nOffset by 2 inches (5 cm) inward for space around the mold. \n\nDesign the polygon based on your machine's capacity. \n\nOffset by 0.8 inches (2 cm) inward for the steel thickness. \n\nUse the drawing to measure the mold dimensions. This will aid in calculating the plastic required for sheet production.\n\nAfter outlining and measuring, use an angle grinder to cut the 20mm (0.79 inches) hollow galvanized steel to the specified size.\n\nMark dimensions using an erasable marker for accuracy.\nEmploy an angle grinder for cutting.\nUse a whiteboard marker to draw a 1:1 template of your sheets to align angles and dimensions properly, adjusting as necessary.\n\nUsing a whiteboard marker, draw a full-scale template of your sheets to verify and adjust angles and dimensions as necessary.\n\nWeld all sides to join the ends and form your polygonal sheets.\n\nUse an angle grinder to smooth excess welding material. This is essential to ensure the mold lies flat against the sheets, preventing damage and preventing plastic from leaking if the surface is uneven.\n\n### How to Make a Polygonal Sheet\n\nCalculate the area of your polygon from the drawing to determine the required plastic amount.\n\nRefer to the sheet press tutorial for detailed instructions: [YouTube Video](https://youtu.be/TNG2f_hKc_A)\n\nFeel free to share your experience with us.\n\nSincerely, \nWedoo Team", - "keywords": "octagonal plastic sheets, polygonal mold creation, sheet press techniques, welding materials for molds, galvanized steel molds, angle grinder usage, plastic sheet production, polygon template drawing, sheet press setup, plastic molding guide", - "resources": "Creating an octagonal mold for plastic sheets using a sheet press requires specific tools, software, and materials. Below is a structured breakdown of the essential components needed for the project.\n\n### Tools\n\n- Sheet press set\n- Angle grinder (cutting and smoothing)\n- Welding tools and materials (assembly)\n- Sander (product finishing)\n- Safety gear: welding helmet, safety glasses, mask\n\n### Software\n\n- Drafting/drawing software (dimension planning)\n\n### Hardware\n\n- Galvanized steel (0.79 x 0.79 inches, 19.7-ft standard length)\n- Clean, sorted plastic (type flexible)\n- Marker and ruler (measurement marking)\n\nFor detailed instructions, refer to the [sheet press tutorial video](https://youtu.be/TNG2f_hKc_A)[1].", - "references": "### Articles\n\n- Polygonal mould for sheet press - [filtered] Academy\n- [Custom Silicone Octagon Mold - ZSR Consumer Silicone Products](https://consumersiliconeproducts.com/custom-silicone-octagon-mold)\n- [Polygon Press Mold For Lab - Kintek Solution](https://kindle-tech.com/products/polygon-press-mold)\n- [Octagon Mold - Tomric Systems, Inc.](https://tomric.com/product/octagon-mold/)\n\n### YouTube\n\n- [How We Made A TINY Injection Molding Machine - YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JtcJAaYVMAg)\n- [How To Make A Plastic Sheet With A Sheetpress?! | By Wedoo](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nQEvEjdvToQ)\n\n### Papers\n\n- [Part and Mold Design - LANXESS](https://techcenter.lanxess.com/scp/americas/en/docguard/Part_and_Mold_Design_Guide.pdf?docId=77015)\n\n### Books\n\n- [Hands-On Data Visualization - HandsOnDataViz.org](https://handsondataviz.org/HandsOnDataViz.pdf)\n\n### Opensource Designs\n\n- Polygonal mould for sheet press - [filtered] Academy", - "brief": "Create custom polygonal molds for plastic sheets using sheet press techniques. Learn how to make octagonal, triangular, or hexagonal shapes efficiently." + "content": "Plastic sheets made with sheet press don't need to be square.\n\nHere we are showing you how to create octagonal mould to create octagonal plastic sheets. The same methods can be applied to create any polygonal mould for the sheetpress (triangle, hexagonal, etc)\n\nYou can watch the full video tutorial on precious plastic’s youtube channel here:\nhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WSZq_9a-XMQ&t=81s\n\nDon't hesitate to contact us if you have any questions and suggestions for the mould. You can click on our precious plastic profile for the contact information\n\n\nUser Location: Sukawati, Indonesia\n\nTools:\n\nSheet press set\nAngle grinder\nWelding tools and materials\nJigsaw\nSander (for product finishing)\nSafety gears: welding helmet, safety glasses, mask\nMarker\nRuler\n\nComputer with drafting/drawing software\n\nMaterial\nSteel for mold: 2x2cm galvanised steel (standard size =6m)\nClean, sorted plastic with types of your choice\n\nDraw the polygon in any drafting software of your choice. This will give you precise information on the dimension of the individual parts/side of the polygon. We have included our drawing in the drive link above for reference\n\nDraw the measurement of your sheepress work area\n\nOffset by 5 cm inwards (space needed around the mould)\n\nDraw polygon according to the area capacity of your sheet press machines\n\nOffset by 2 cm inwards (thickness of the galvanise steel)\n\nGet measurement of dimensions of the mould from the drawing you’ve made\n\nthis drawing would also be useful later on when you are calculating the amount of plastic you need to make the sheets.\n\nAfter drawing and determining the measurements, cut the 20mm hollow galvanized steel according to size with an angle grinder.\n\nDraw the measurement with erasable marker for better precision\nCut with angle grinder\nWith whiteboard marker, draw out the 1:1 template of your sheets to make sure the angles and dimension line up and adjust accordingly\n\nWith whiteboard marker, draw out the 1:1 template of your sheets to make sure the angles and dimension line up and adjust accordingly.\n\nWeld all the sides to connect the ends together to make your polygonal sheets\n\n\nGrind the excess welding materials with angle grinder\n\nThis step is crucial to make sure that the mould is completely flat against the sheets. Otherwise you will damage the steel plate and the plastic will bleed outside of the mould because it is thicker than it should be.\n\nIt's time to make your polygonal sheet.\n\nUse the area of your polygon (from the drawing) to determine the amount of plastic needed to make the sheet\n\nSee [filtered] sheet press \"how to\" for a step by step tutorial of making a sheet: youtu.be: youtu.be/TNG2f_hKc_A\n\nVisit our profile and let us know if you have tried this :)\n\nWarmly, \n\nWedoo Team" } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/polygonal-mould-for-sheetpress/README.md b/howtos/polygonal-mould-for-sheetpress/README.md index 007543323..9ec0850ff 100644 --- a/howtos/polygonal-mould-for-sheetpress/README.md +++ b/howtos/polygonal-mould-for-sheetpress/README.md @@ -1,47 +1,53 @@ --- title: Polygonal mould for sheetpress slug: polygonal-mould-for-sheetpress -description: Plastic sheets made with a sheet press do not need to be square. +description: Plastic sheets made with sheet press don't need to be square. -This guide explains how to create an octagonal mold for producing octagonal plastic sheets. The same techniques can be used to create molds of other polygonal shapes, such as triangles and hexagons. +Here we are showing you how to create octagonal mould to create octagonal plastic sheets. The same methods can be applied to create any polygonal mould for the sheetpress (triangle, hexagonal, etc) -For inquiries or suggestions about the mold, please refer to our contact information. +You can watch the full video tutorial on precious plastic’s youtube channel here: +https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WSZq_9a-XMQ&t=81s + +Dont hesitate to contact us if you have any questions and suggestions for the mould. You can click on our precious plastic profile for the contact information tags: ["HDPE","mould","hack","sheetpress"] category: Moulds difficulty: Medium time: < 1 day -keywords: octagonal mold, plastic sheet press, polygonal shapes, welding tools, drafting software, angle grinder, galvanized steel mold, polygon drawing tutorial, plastic sheet production, sheet press setup +keywords: location: Sukawati, Indonesia --- # Polygonal mould for sheetpress ![Polygonal mould for sheetpress](Screenshot_3-18551b60d58.png) -Plastic sheets made with a sheet press do not need to be square. +Plastic sheets made with sheet press don't need to be square. -This guide explains how to create an octagonal mold for producing octagonal plastic sheets. The same techniques can be used to create molds of other polygonal shapes, such as triangles and hexagons. +Here we are showing you how to create octagonal mould to create octagonal plastic sheets. The same methods can be applied to create any polygonal mould for the sheetpress (triangle, hexagonal, etc) -For inquiries or suggestions about the mold, please refer to our contact information. +You can watch the full video tutorial on precious plastic’s youtube channel here: +https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WSZq_9a-XMQ&t=81s + +Dont hesitate to contact us if you have any questions and suggestions for the mould. You can click on our precious plastic profile for the contact information User Location: Sukawati, Indonesia ## Steps ### Step 1: Gather tools and material -Tools: +Tools: -- Sheet press set -- Angle grinder -- Welding tools and materials -- Jigsaw -- Sander (for product finishing) -- Safety gear: welding helmet, safety glasses, mask -- Marker -- Ruler +Sheet press set +Angle grinder +Welding tools and materials +Jigsaw +Sander (for product finishing) +Safety gears: welding helmet, safety glasses, mask +Marker +Ruler Computer with drafting/drawing software -Materials: +Material +Steel for mold: 2x2cm galvanised steel (standard size =6m) +Clean, sorted plastic with types of your choice -- Steel for mold: 0.78x0.78 in galvanized steel (standard size = 19.7 ft) -- Clean, sorted plastic of chosen types ![Screenshot_20221228_035519-18557c81e43.png](./Screenshot_20221228_035519-18557c81e43.png) @@ -51,33 +57,32 @@ Materials: ### Step 2: Draw -### Polygon Drawing Tutorial +Draw the polygon in any drafting software of your choice. This will give you precise information on the dimension of the individual parts/side of the polygon. We have included our drawing in the drive link above for reference -1. **Drawing the Polygon:** - - Use any drafting software to create a polygon. This provides precise dimensions for each side. A reference drawing is available in the provided drive link. +Draw the measurement of your sheepress work area -2. **Work Area Measurement:** - - Measure your sheet press work area. - - Offset the measured area by 2 inches (5 cm) inward to account for space needed around the mold. +Offset by 5 cm inwards (space needed around the mould) -3. **Polygon Adjustment:** - - Adjust polygon dimensions according to your sheet press machine's capacity. - - Offset by 0.8 inches (2 cm) inward for the thickness of galvanized steel. +Draw polygon according to the area capacity of your sheet press machines + +Offset by 2 cm inwards (thickness of the galvanise steel) + +Get measurement of dimensions of the mould from the drawing you’ve made + +this drawing would also be useful later on when you are calculating the amount of plastic you need to make the sheets. -4. **Mold Dimension Measurement:** - - Derive mold dimensions from your drawing. - - Utilize this drawing for calculating the plastic needed for sheet production. ![octagonal sheets-185529f10cc.png](./octagonal_sheets-185529f10cc.png) ### Step 3: Cut -After determining measurements, cut the 20mm (0.79 inches) hollow galvanized steel with an angle grinder. +After drawing and determining the measurements, cut the 20mm hollow galvanized steel according to size with an angle grinder. + +Draw the measurement with erasable marker for better precision +Cut with angle grinder +With whiteboard marker, draw out the 1:1 template of your sheets to make sure the angles and dimension line up and adjust accordingly -Use an erasable marker for precision. -Cut using the angle grinder. -Draw a 1:1 template of your sheets with a whiteboard marker to ensure alignment of angles and dimensions, and adjust as needed. ![IMG_9475-1854bee9b7e.jpg](./IMG_9475-1854bee9b7e.jpg) @@ -90,9 +95,11 @@ Draw a 1:1 template of your sheets with a whiteboard marker to ensure alignment ### Step 4: Weld -With a whiteboard marker, draw a full-scale template of your sheets to ensure angles and dimensions align, adjusting as necessary. +With whiteboard marker, draw out the 1:1 template of your sheets to make sure the angles and dimension line up and adjust accordingly. + +Weld all the sides to connect the ends together to make your polygonal sheets + -Weld the sides to connect the ends, forming polygonal sheets. ![IMG_9771-1854d3672c3.jpg](./IMG_9771-1854d3672c3.jpg) @@ -105,7 +112,10 @@ Weld the sides to connect the ends, forming polygonal sheets. ### Step 5: Finishing -Grind excess welding material with an angle grinder. This ensures the mold is flat against the sheets, preventing damage to the steel plate and leakage of plastic. +Grind the excess welding materials with angle grinder + +This step is crucial to make sure that the mould is completely flat against the sheets. Otherwise you will damage the steel plate and the plastic will bleed outside of the mould because it is thicker than it should be. + ![Screenshot (95)-18557c67553.png](./Screenshot_95-18557c67553.png) @@ -118,11 +128,12 @@ Grind excess welding material with an angle grinder. This ensures the mold is fl ### Step 6: Make your polygonal sheet -### Polygonal Sheet Creation Guide +It's time to make your polygonal sheet. -Calculate the required plastic based on the polygon's area. +Use the area of your polygon (from the drawing) to determine the amount of plastic needed to make the sheet + +See [filtered] sheet press "how to" for a step by step tutorial of making a sheet: youtu.be: youtu.be/TNG2f_hKc_A -Refer to the sheet press tutorial for detailed instructions: [YouTube Video](https://youtu.be/TNG2f_hKc_A). ![IMG_9900-1854d39cf75.jpg](./IMG_9900-1854d39cf75.jpg) @@ -134,39 +145,4 @@ Refer to the sheet press tutorial for detailed instructions: [YouTube Video](htt ![3-1854d3a11e6.png](./3-1854d3a11e6.png) ## Resources -### Tools - -- Sheet press set ([YouTube tutorial](https://youtu.be/TNG2f_hKc_A)) -- Angle grinder -- Welding tools and materials -- Jigsaw -- Sander (for finishing) - -### Software - -- Drafting/drawing software (e.g., AutoCAD) - -### Hardware - -- 20mm hollow galvanized steel (0.78x0.78 in) -- Clean, sorted plastic sheets -## References -## Articles - -- [Plastic Sheet Press Process](https://www.junklabz.com/sheet-press) -- [Literature Review: Open Source Waste Plastic Sheet Press](https://www.appropedia.org/Literature_review:_Open_Source_Waste_Plastic_Sheet_Press) -- [Plastic Casting Process Guide](https://www.weprofab.com/plastic-casting-process/) - -## Papers - -- [Affordable and Localized Plastic Sheet Press Machine](https://peer.asee.org/affordable-and-localized-plastic-sheet-press-machine-for-sustainable-manufacturing) - -## YouTube - -- [How to Make Recycled Polygonal Sheets](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WSZq_9a-XMQ) - -## Opensource Designs - -- Polygonal Mould Guide -- ~~[Sheetpress Construction Guide](https://[filtered].github.io/academy/build/sheetpressbuild)~~ -- Sheetpress Workspace Setup \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/polygonal-mould-for-sheetpress/config.json b/howtos/polygonal-mould-for-sheetpress/config.json index ee12b068d..d4e4521ae 100644 --- a/howtos/polygonal-mould-for-sheetpress/config.json +++ b/howtos/polygonal-mould-for-sheetpress/config.json @@ -40,12 +40,12 @@ "alt": "IMG_5704-18557ab30d8.jpg" } ], - "text": "Tools:\n\n- Sheet press set\n- Angle grinder\n- Welding tools and materials\n- Jigsaw\n- Sander (for product finishing)\n- Safety gear: welding helmet, safety glasses, mask\n- Marker\n- Ruler\n\nComputer with drafting/drawing software\n\nMaterials:\n\n- Steel for mold: 0.78x0.78 in galvanized steel (standard size = 19.7 ft)\n- Clean, sorted plastic of chosen types" + "text": "Tools: \n\nSheet press set\nAngle grinder \nWelding tools and materials\nJigsaw \nSander (for product finishing) \nSafety gears: welding helmet, safety glasses, mask \nMarker\nRuler \n\nComputer with drafting/drawing software\n\nMaterial\nSteel for mold: 2x2cm galvanised steel (standard size =6m)\nClean, sorted plastic with types of your choice\n" }, { "title": "Draw", "_animationKey": "unique2", - "text": "### Polygon Drawing Tutorial\n\n1. **Drawing the Polygon:**\n - Use any drafting software to create a polygon. This provides precise dimensions for each side. A reference drawing is available in the provided drive link.\n\n2. **Work Area Measurement:**\n - Measure your sheet press work area.\n - Offset the measured area by 2 inches (5 cm) inward to account for space needed around the mold.\n\n3. **Polygon Adjustment:**\n - Adjust polygon dimensions according to your sheet press machine's capacity.\n - Offset by 0.8 inches (2 cm) inward for the thickness of galvanized steel.\n\n4. **Mold Dimension Measurement:**\n - Derive mold dimensions from your drawing.\n - Utilize this drawing for calculating the plastic needed for sheet production.", + "text": "Draw the polygon in any drafting software of your choice. This will give you precise information on the dimension of the individual parts/side of the polygon. We have included our drawing in the drive link above for reference\n\nDraw the measurement of your sheepress work area\n\nOffset by 5 cm inwards (space needed around the mould)\n\nDraw polygon according to the area capacity of your sheet press machines\n\nOffset by 2 cm inwards (thickness of the galvanise steel)\n\nGet measurement of dimensions of the mould from the drawing you’ve made \n\nthis drawing would also be useful later on when you are calculating the amount of plastic you need to make the sheets. \n", "images": [ { "type": "image/png", @@ -100,13 +100,13 @@ "alt": "IMG_9491-1854beed0f0.jpg" } ], - "text": "After determining measurements, cut the 20mm (0.79 inches) hollow galvanized steel with an angle grinder.\n\nUse an erasable marker for precision.\nCut using the angle grinder.\nDraw a 1:1 template of your sheets with a whiteboard marker to ensure alignment of angles and dimensions, and adjust as needed.", + "text": "After drawing and determining the measurements, cut the 20mm hollow galvanized steel according to size with an angle grinder. \n\nDraw the measurement with erasable marker for better precision\nCut with angle grinder\nWith whiteboard marker, draw out the 1:1 template of your sheets to make sure the angles and dimension line up and adjust accordingly\n", "title": "Cut", "_animationKey": "unique3" }, { "_animationKey": "uniqueli67dn", - "text": "With a whiteboard marker, draw a full-scale template of your sheets to ensure angles and dimensions align, adjusting as necessary.\n\nWeld the sides to connect the ends, forming polygonal sheets.", + "text": "With whiteboard marker, draw out the 1:1 template of your sheets to make sure the angles and dimension line up and adjust accordingly. \n\nWeld all the sides to connect the ends together to make your polygonal sheets\n\n", "images": [ { "name": "IMG_9771-1854d3672c3.jpg", @@ -148,7 +148,7 @@ "title": "Weld" }, { - "text": "Grind excess welding material with an angle grinder. This ensures the mold is flat against the sheets, preventing damage to the steel plate and leakage of plastic.", + "text": "Grind the excess welding materials with angle grinder\n\nThis step is crucial to make sure that the mould is completely flat against the sheets. Otherwise you will damage the steel plate and the plastic will bleed outside of the mould because it is thicker than it should be. \n", "images": [ { "updated": "2022-12-28T08:10:16.314Z", @@ -192,7 +192,7 @@ }, { "title": "Make your polygonal sheet", - "text": "### Polygonal Sheet Creation Guide\n\nCalculate the required plastic based on the polygon's area.\n\nRefer to the sheet press tutorial for detailed instructions: [YouTube Video](https://youtu.be/TNG2f_hKc_A).", + "text": "It's time to make your polygonal sheet. \n\nUse the area of your polygon (from the drawing) to determine the amount of plastic needed to make the sheet\n\nSee [filtered] sheet press \"how to\" for a step by step tutorial of making a sheet: youtu.be: youtu.be/TNG2f_hKc_A\n", "images": [ { "downloadUrl": "https://firebasestorage.googleapis.com/v0/b/onearmyworld.appspot.com/o/uploads%2Fhowtos%2FihjJNKIysxNejpaWLa4r%2FIMG_9900-1854d39cf75.jpg?alt=media&token=309bb930-6c3a-412f-8da0-59c7ee6458eb", @@ -236,7 +236,7 @@ ], "mentions": [], "moderation": "accepted", - "description": "Plastic sheets made with a sheet press do not need to be square.\n\nThis guide explains how to create an octagonal mold for producing octagonal plastic sheets. The same techniques can be used to create molds of other polygonal shapes, such as triangles and hexagons.\n\nFor inquiries or suggestions about the mold, please refer to our contact information.", + "description": "Plastic sheets made with sheet press don't need to be square.\n\nHere we are showing you how to create octagonal mould to create octagonal plastic sheets. The same methods can be applied to create any polygonal mould for the sheetpress (triangle, hexagonal, etc) \n\nYou can watch the full video tutorial on precious plastic’s youtube channel here:\nhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WSZq_9a-XMQ&t=81s\n\nDont hesitate to contact us if you have any questions and suggestions for the mould. You can click on our precious plastic profile for the contact information", "tags": [ "HDPE", "mould", @@ -413,9 +413,5 @@ "urls": [] } }, - "content": "Plastic sheets made with a sheet press do not need to be square.\n\nThis guide explains how to create an octagonal mold for producing octagonal plastic sheets. The same techniques can be used to create molds of other polygonal shapes, such as triangles and hexagons.\n\nFor inquiries or suggestions about the mold, please refer to our contact information.\n\n\nUser Location: Sukawati, Indonesia\n\nTools:\n\n- Sheet press set\n- Angle grinder\n- Welding tools and materials\n- Jigsaw\n- Sander (for product finishing)\n- Safety gear: welding helmet, safety glasses, mask\n- Marker\n- Ruler\n\nComputer with drafting/drawing software\n\nMaterials:\n\n- Steel for mold: 0.78x0.78 in galvanized steel (standard size = 19.7 ft)\n- Clean, sorted plastic of chosen types\n\n### Polygon Drawing Tutorial\n\n1. **Drawing the Polygon:**\n - Use any drafting software to create a polygon. This provides precise dimensions for each side. A reference drawing is available in the provided drive link.\n\n2. **Work Area Measurement:**\n - Measure your sheet press work area.\n - Offset the measured area by 2 inches (5 cm) inward to account for space needed around the mold.\n\n3. **Polygon Adjustment:**\n - Adjust polygon dimensions according to your sheet press machine's capacity.\n - Offset by 0.8 inches (2 cm) inward for the thickness of galvanized steel.\n\n4. **Mold Dimension Measurement:**\n - Derive mold dimensions from your drawing.\n - Utilize this drawing for calculating the plastic needed for sheet production.\n\nAfter determining measurements, cut the 20mm (0.79 inches) hollow galvanized steel with an angle grinder.\n\nUse an erasable marker for precision.\nCut using the angle grinder.\nDraw a 1:1 template of your sheets with a whiteboard marker to ensure alignment of angles and dimensions, and adjust as needed.\n\nWith a whiteboard marker, draw a full-scale template of your sheets to ensure angles and dimensions align, adjusting as necessary.\n\nWeld the sides to connect the ends, forming polygonal sheets.\n\nGrind excess welding material with an angle grinder. This ensures the mold is flat against the sheets, preventing damage to the steel plate and leakage of plastic.\n\n### Polygonal Sheet Creation Guide\n\nCalculate the required plastic based on the polygon's area.\n\nRefer to the sheet press tutorial for detailed instructions: [YouTube Video](https://youtu.be/TNG2f_hKc_A).", - "keywords": "octagonal mold, plastic sheet press, polygonal shapes, welding tools, drafting software, angle grinder, galvanized steel mold, polygon drawing tutorial, plastic sheet production, sheet press setup", - "resources": "### Tools\n\n- Sheet press set ([YouTube tutorial](https://youtu.be/TNG2f_hKc_A))\n- Angle grinder\n- Welding tools and materials\n- Jigsaw\n- Sander (for finishing)\n\n### Software\n\n- Drafting/drawing software (e.g., AutoCAD)\n\n### Hardware\n\n- 20mm hollow galvanized steel (0.78x0.78 in)\n- Clean, sorted plastic sheets", - "references": "## Articles\n\n- [Plastic Sheet Press Process](https://www.junklabz.com/sheet-press)\n- [Literature Review: Open Source Waste Plastic Sheet Press](https://www.appropedia.org/Literature_review:_Open_Source_Waste_Plastic_Sheet_Press)\n- [Plastic Casting Process Guide](https://www.weprofab.com/plastic-casting-process/)\n\n## Papers\n\n- [Affordable and Localized Plastic Sheet Press Machine](https://peer.asee.org/affordable-and-localized-plastic-sheet-press-machine-for-sustainable-manufacturing)\n\n## YouTube\n\n- [How to Make Recycled Polygonal Sheets](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WSZq_9a-XMQ)\n\n## Opensource Designs\n\n- Polygonal Mould Guide\n- ~~[Sheetpress Construction Guide](https://[filtered].github.io/academy/build/sheetpressbuild)~~\n- Sheetpress Workspace Setup", - "brief": "Create custom polygonal molds using a sheet press to produce octagonal plastic sheets. Follow our step-by-step guide with essential tools for precision crafting." + "content": "Plastic sheets made with sheet press don't need to be square.\n\nHere we are showing you how to create octagonal mould to create octagonal plastic sheets. The same methods can be applied to create any polygonal mould for the sheetpress (triangle, hexagonal, etc) \n\nYou can watch the full video tutorial on precious plastic’s youtube channel here:\nhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WSZq_9a-XMQ&t=81s\n\nDont hesitate to contact us if you have any questions and suggestions for the mould. You can click on our precious plastic profile for the contact information\n\n\nUser Location: Sukawati, Indonesia\n\nTools: \n\nSheet press set\nAngle grinder \nWelding tools and materials\nJigsaw \nSander (for product finishing) \nSafety gears: welding helmet, safety glasses, mask \nMarker\nRuler \n\nComputer with drafting/drawing software\n\nMaterial\nSteel for mold: 2x2cm galvanised steel (standard size =6m)\nClean, sorted plastic with types of your choice\n\n\nDraw the polygon in any drafting software of your choice. This will give you precise information on the dimension of the individual parts/side of the polygon. We have included our drawing in the drive link above for reference\n\nDraw the measurement of your sheepress work area\n\nOffset by 5 cm inwards (space needed around the mould)\n\nDraw polygon according to the area capacity of your sheet press machines\n\nOffset by 2 cm inwards (thickness of the galvanise steel)\n\nGet measurement of dimensions of the mould from the drawing you’ve made \n\nthis drawing would also be useful later on when you are calculating the amount of plastic you need to make the sheets. \n\n\nAfter drawing and determining the measurements, cut the 20mm hollow galvanized steel according to size with an angle grinder. \n\nDraw the measurement with erasable marker for better precision\nCut with angle grinder\nWith whiteboard marker, draw out the 1:1 template of your sheets to make sure the angles and dimension line up and adjust accordingly\n\n\nWith whiteboard marker, draw out the 1:1 template of your sheets to make sure the angles and dimension line up and adjust accordingly. \n\nWeld all the sides to connect the ends together to make your polygonal sheets\n\n\n\nGrind the excess welding materials with angle grinder\n\nThis step is crucial to make sure that the mould is completely flat against the sheets. Otherwise you will damage the steel plate and the plastic will bleed outside of the mould because it is thicker than it should be. \n\n\nIt's time to make your polygonal sheet. \n\nUse the area of your polygon (from the drawing) to determine the amount of plastic needed to make the sheet\n\nSee [filtered] sheet press \"how to\" for a step by step tutorial of making a sheet: youtu.be: youtu.be/TNG2f_hKc_A\n" } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/precious-plastic-font-/README.md b/howtos/precious-plastic-font-/README.md index feb013095..abf9d7f70 100644 --- a/howtos/precious-plastic-font-/README.md +++ b/howtos/precious-plastic-font-/README.md @@ -1,84 +1,46 @@ --- title: Precious Plastic Font slug: precious-plastic-font- -description: This modified font includes accents and special characters (e.g., ñ, ç, ó, ö) suitable for Spanish. It can be further customized using Glyphr Studio if additional characters are needed. +description: Modified precious plastic font including all the accents, special letters (ñ, ç, ó, ò, ô, ö,...) initially thought for spanish speaking countries but can easily be modified using https://www.glyphrstudio.com/ in case any other characters are missing. tags: ["untagged","hack","starterkit"] category: Guides difficulty: Easy time: < 1 hour -keywords: font customization, Spanish language font, Glyphr Studio, special characters font, accented letters font, download font tutorial, unzip files guide, Cuenca Spain font, install font instructions, extract zip file +keywords: location: Cuenca, Spain --- # Precious Plastic Font ![Precious Plastic Font ](Mesa_de_trabajo_10portada2-186a189e18c.jpg) -This modified font includes accents and special characters (e.g., ñ, ç, ó, ö) suitable for Spanish. It can be further customized using Glyphr Studio if additional characters are needed. +Modified precious plastic font including all the accents, special letters (ñ, ç, ó, ò, ô, ö,...) initially thought for spanish speaking countries but can easily be modified using https://www.glyphrstudio.com/ in case any other characters are missing. User Location: Cuenca, Spain ## Steps ### Step 1: Download -Download the zip file to your device from this tutorial. +Download the zip file to your device from this how to. ![Screenshot 2023-03-09 171204-186c5a49634.png](./Screenshot_2023-03-09_171204-186c5a49634.png) ### Step 2: Unzip files with winzip (any other will also do!) -- Right-click the desired folder and select 'Open with WinZip.' +- Right-click on the folder you want to open. From the dropdown, you'll see the option 'Open with WinZip. ... -- Alternatively, right-click the 'Extract Files' option. A dropdown menu will appear. +- Alternatively, right-click on the "extract files option." Another dropdown menu will appear. -- Choose the folder or destination for extracting your zipped file. +- This will prompt you to choose the folder or destination you want to extract your zipped file. ![Mesa de trabajo 22portada2-186a19c110f.jpg](./Mesa_de_trabajo_22portada2-186a19c110f.jpg) ### Step 3: Install on your device -Open the font file and follow the instructions. +Double click on the font file and follow instructions. + +ENJOY!!! ![Install font-186a19a7c93.JPG](./Install_font-186a19a7c93.JPG) ## Resources -### Required Tools & Software - -- [Glyphr Studio](https://www.glyphrstudio.com) (free font design tool) -- [WinZip](https://www.winzip.com) (file extraction software) -- ZIP file from the tutorial ~~[Download Link](#)~~ -- Font installation utility (OS-native) - -### Required Hardware - -- Windows/macOS/Linux computer -- Minimum 100MB storage for font files -## References -## References - -### Articles - -- N/A - -### Books - -- N/A - -### Papers - -- N/A - -### YouTube - -- N/A - -### Opensource Designs - -- [Glyphr Studio](https://www.glyphrstudio.com/) - -### Tutorials - -- N/A - -### Tools - -- [WinZip](https://www.winzip.com/) \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/precious-plastic-font-/config.json b/howtos/precious-plastic-font-/config.json index 7b917759b..130b9c9aa 100644 --- a/howtos/precious-plastic-font-/config.json +++ b/howtos/precious-plastic-font-/config.json @@ -39,7 +39,7 @@ "_id": "NXa4E7oGNl9kFeceGcOg", "steps": [ { - "text": "Download the zip file to your device from this tutorial.", + "text": "Download the zip file to your device from this how to.", "images": [ { "updated": "2023-03-09T09:12:30.035Z", @@ -72,7 +72,7 @@ "alt": "Mesa de trabajo 22portada2-186a19c110f.jpg" } ], - "text": "- Right-click the desired folder and select 'Open with WinZip.'\n\n- Alternatively, right-click the 'Extract Files' option. A dropdown menu will appear.\n\n- Choose the folder or destination for extracting your zipped file.", + "text": "- Right-click on the folder you want to open. From the dropdown, you'll see the option 'Open with WinZip. ...\n\n- Alternatively, right-click on the \"extract files option.\" Another dropdown menu will appear. \n\n- This will prompt you to choose the folder or destination you want to extract your zipped file.", "title": "Unzip files with winzip (any other will also do!)", "_animationKey": "unique2" }, @@ -93,7 +93,7 @@ } ], "title": "Install on your device", - "text": "Open the font file and follow the instructions." + "text": "Double click on the font file and follow instructions.\n\nENJOY!!!" } ], "mentions": [], @@ -104,7 +104,7 @@ "extended-precious-plastic-font-", "precious-plastic-font-" ], - "description": "This modified font includes accents and special characters (e.g., ñ, ç, ó, ö) suitable for Spanish. It can be further customized using Glyphr Studio if additional characters are needed.", + "description": "Modified precious plastic font including all the accents, special letters (ñ, ç, ó, ò, ô, ö,...) initially thought for spanish speaking countries but can easily be modified using https://www.glyphrstudio.com/ in case any other characters are missing.", "_modified": "2023-11-07T16:42:48.336Z", "_createdBy": "fablab-cuenca", "slug": "precious-plastic-font-", @@ -285,9 +285,5 @@ "images": [] } }, - "content": "This modified font includes accents and special characters (e.g., ñ, ç, ó, ö) suitable for Spanish. It can be further customized using Glyphr Studio if additional characters are needed.\n\n\nUser Location: Cuenca, Spain\n\nDownload the zip file to your device from this tutorial.\n\n- Right-click the desired folder and select 'Open with WinZip.'\n\n- Alternatively, right-click the 'Extract Files' option. A dropdown menu will appear.\n\n- Choose the folder or destination for extracting your zipped file.\n\nOpen the font file and follow the instructions.", - "keywords": "font customization, Spanish language font, Glyphr Studio, special characters font, accented letters font, download font tutorial, unzip files guide, Cuenca Spain font, install font instructions, extract zip file", - "resources": "### Required Tools & Software\n\n- [Glyphr Studio](https://www.glyphrstudio.com) (free font design tool)\n- [WinZip](https://www.winzip.com) (file extraction software)\n- ZIP file from the tutorial ~~[Download Link](#)~~\n- Font installation utility (OS-native)\n\n### Required Hardware\n\n- Windows/macOS/Linux computer\n- Minimum 100MB storage for font files", - "references": "## References\n\n### Articles\n\n- N/A\n\n### Books\n\n- N/A\n\n### Papers\n\n- N/A\n\n### YouTube\n\n- N/A\n\n### Opensource Designs\n\n- [Glyphr Studio](https://www.glyphrstudio.com/)\n\n### Tutorials\n\n- N/A\n\n### Tools\n\n- [WinZip](https://www.winzip.com/)", - "brief": "Customizable Spanish font with special characters like ñ, ç, ó, ö. Modify further in Glyphr Studio. Easy download and installation guide included." + "content": "Modified precious plastic font including all the accents, special letters (ñ, ç, ó, ò, ô, ö,...) initially thought for spanish speaking countries but can easily be modified using https://www.glyphrstudio.com/ in case any other characters are missing.\n\n\nUser Location: Cuenca, Spain\n\nDownload the zip file to your device from this how to.\n\n- Right-click on the folder you want to open. From the dropdown, you'll see the option 'Open with WinZip. ...\n\n- Alternatively, right-click on the \"extract files option.\" Another dropdown menu will appear. \n\n- This will prompt you to choose the folder or destination you want to extract your zipped file.\n\nDouble click on the font file and follow instructions.\n\nENJOY!!!" } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/products-made-from-marine-litter/README.md b/howtos/products-made-from-marine-litter/README.md index abc43aee2..318364db6 100644 --- a/howtos/products-made-from-marine-litter/README.md +++ b/howtos/products-made-from-marine-litter/README.md @@ -1,36 +1,34 @@ --- title: Products made from marine litter slug: products-made-from-marine-litter -description: Production of two products from polypropylene plastic and fishing nets sourced from Spain's coast. +description: Manufacture of two specific products from recycled polypropylene plastic and fishing nets recovered by fishermen from the coast of Spain. -Learn about making boards or panels with this material here [link]. +Learn more about creation and manufacture of boards or panels using this material here https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/boards-made-from-marine-litter tags: ["PS","extrusion","untagged","sheetpress","product","PP","untagged"] category: Products difficulty: Medium time: < 1 week -keywords: polypropylene products, recycled fishing nets, CNC machining, urban bench design, dumbbell manufacturing, marine litter boards, sustainable materials, recycled plastic furniture, 3D modeling CAD, extrusion machine assembly +keywords: location: Gandia, Spain --- # Products made from marine litter ![Products made from marine litter](WhatsApp_Image_2022-10-04_at_15.57.08_-_copia-18a8db572a3.jpeg) -Production of two products from polypropylene plastic and fishing nets sourced from Spain's coast. +Manufacture of two specific products from recycled polypropylene plastic and fishing nets recovered by fishermen from the coast of Spain. -Learn about making boards or panels with this material here [link]. +Learn more about creation and manufacture of boards or panels using this material here https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/boards-made-from-marine-litter User Location: Gandia, Spain ## Steps ### Step 1: Explanation -### Guide Overview +On this guide we have two products made from panels or boards of recycled polypropylene plastic and fishing nets recovered from the sea: -This guide focuses on the creation of two products using panels made from polypropylene plastic and recovered fishing nets: +• Urban bench. +• Dumbbells. -- Urban Bench -- Dumbbells + You can find the creation of panels with a sheetpress in a expanded guide on other how-to called 'Boards made from marine litter'. -For information on creating panels with a sheet press, refer to the detailed guide titled "Boards Made from Marine Litter." - -This guide will primarily address the detailed process of product creation and manufacturing. +On this guide we will go deeper into creating and manufacturing of products. ![34d3da5a-5605-41a2-83dc-fba2498b761b-18ad5dc1663.jpg](./34d3da5a-5605-41a2-83dc-fba2498b761b-18ad5dc1663.jpg) @@ -40,17 +38,19 @@ This guide will primarily address the detailed process of product creation and m ### Step 2: Cutting and machining of boards -We typically use CAD and 3D modeling software such as Solidworks and Rhinoceros for 3D modeling, and AutoCAD and Illustrator for defining 2D cutting lines for CNC machining. +We usually use CAD and 3D modeling software to design the products and define cutting lines to take it to CNC machine. -With a predefined design, we proceed to machine the material using a CNC cutting machine. +Solidworks, Rhinoceros for 3D modeling and Autocad and Illustrator as CAD software to define cutting lines on 2D. -**Tips** +Having a predefined design, we take the material to be machined on CNC cutting machine. -Aim to maximize material usage and manage cutting space efficiently to minimize waste. +• Tips • -Plastic boards are generally softer than wood, allowing for single-stroke cuts with wood-compatible drills, optimizing production time and achieving a cleaner finish. Always perform an initial test. +Always be careful to make the most of the material you spend, always try to manage the cutting space to avoid wasting the boards. -Collected shavings can be reused as raw material in a sheet press or extrusion machine. +Plastic boards are a little softer than wood in general, so you could cut in one stroke using the same drill you would use to cut wood. This optimises production time and gives a cleaner finish to plastic parts. Remember always make a test at first. + +You can save the shaving after cut to use it again as raw material on sheetpress or extrusion machine. ![CocaColaAIMPLASTyPlasticPreciosGL23-18ab21e893d.jpg](./CocaColaAIMPLASTyPlasticPreciosGL23-18ab21e893d.jpg) @@ -63,15 +63,15 @@ Collected shavings can be reused as raw material in a sheet press or extrusion m ### Step 3: Manufacturing and assembly of Urban bench. -Begin assembly of the bench and its structure once the parts are cut. +Once we have the cut parts we continue with assembly of the bench and its structure. -For urban furniture, a metal framework provides stability and durability. +In this case, as it is urban furniture, we have designed a metal structure that allows to complement the object and give it stability and durability. -**Tips** +• Tips • -To connect plastic elements to the metal structure, use galvanized or stainless steel screws and nuts. Although stainless steel is more costly than galvanized, it offers superior resistance to oxidation. +For the connection of the plastic elements and the metal structure you can use galvanized or stainless steel screws and nuts. Stainless steel are a little expensive than galvanized ones, but are more resistant to oxidation. -When attaching plastic parts, pre-drill holes the size of the screw to prevent breaking or deforming due to excessive pressure. +To screw plastic parts we always recommend to do a drill with the size of the screw you want to install, this prevents the plastic from breaking or deforming when screwing with much pressure. ![CocaColaAIMPLASTyPlasticPreciosGL34-18ab2287a9c.jpg](./CocaColaAIMPLASTyPlasticPreciosGL34-18ab2287a9c.jpg) @@ -84,7 +84,11 @@ When attaching plastic parts, pre-drill holes the size of the screw to prevent b ### Step 4: Manufacturing of Dumbbells. -To create dumbbell weights (circular sections), the same marine litter boards used for the bench are CNC machined. Handles are crafted from a colorful mix of recycled plastic bottle caps. An extrusion machine produces plastic rods up to 9.84 feet (3 meters) in varying shapes and thicknesses, either rounded or square. +To make dumbbells weights (round pieces) we use the same marine litter boards than bench in previous steps and we also cut them on CNC machine. + +For manufacturing handless of dumbbells we use a colorful mix recycled plastic from bottles caps. + +We use an extrusion machine to make plastic rods 3 meters long and diferent shapes and thicknesses, rounded or square. ![IMG_8374-18ad64fad9b.JPG](./IMG_8374-18ad64fad9b.JPG) @@ -97,11 +101,11 @@ To create dumbbell weights (circular sections), the same marine litter boards us ### Step 5: Assembly of dumbbells -To assemble the pieces, use stainless steel screws. First, select a drill bit matching the screw size; for instance, use a 3mm (0.12 inches) drill for 4mm (0.16 inches) screws. +To assemble the pieces, we used stainless steel screws. So, as we recommended before, the first thing we do is a drill bit the size of the screw we will use, in this case we did 3mm drill to 4mm screws. -**Tip** +• Tip • -For assembling various plastic parts, torx head screws are recommended for enhanced product security and difficulty in disassembly. +To assemble different types of plastic parts, we have decided to use torx head screws to give security to the products and that they are not so easy to disassemble. ![IMG_7556-18ad664fc97.JPG](./IMG_7556-18ad664fc97.JPG) @@ -113,58 +117,4 @@ For assembling various plastic parts, torx head screws are recommended for enhan ![343406824_490513606535375_1760946125797916365_n-18ad6664271.jpg](./343406824_490513606535375_1760946125797916365_n-18ad6664271.jpg) ## Resources -### Software - -- SolidWorks (3D modeling) -- Rhinoceros (3D modeling) -- AutoCAD (2D cutting lines) -- Adobe Illustrator (2D design) - -### Hardware - -- CNC cutting machine -- Plastic sheet press (~~[guide](link)~~) -- Plastic extrusion machine - -### Tools & Equipment - -- Wood-compatible drill bits -- Torx head screwdriver -- Galvanized/stainless steel screws and nuts -- Power drill (for pre-drilling holes) -- Metal framework components - -### Materials - -- Polypropylene plastic (marine litter) -- Recycled fishing nets -- Plastic bottle caps (handle production) -- Stainless steel rods (dumbbell assembly) - -### Safety Equipment - -- Protective gloves -- Safety goggles -- Dust mask (shavings management) -## References -## References - -### Articles - -- [Spanish fishing sector launches pioneering project to recover and recycle discarded fishing gear](https://weareaquaculture.com/news/fisheries/spanish-fishing-sector-launches-pioneering-project-to-recover-and-recycle-discarded-fishing-gear) -- [Benches and bins made of recycled plastic | Grup Fábregas](https://grupfabregas.com/en/news/benches-and-bins-made-of-recycled-plastic/) -- [NetPlus® Recycled Fishing Nets - Patagonia](https://www.patagonia.com/our-footprint/netplus-recycled-fishing-nets.html) -- [100% recycled ocean-bound plastic - tide ocean material](https://www.tide.earth/en/tide-ocean-material/) -- [Spanish fishing sector to recover at least 100 tons of nets and gear as part of 'Redes de España' project](https://seafood.media/fis/worldnEws/worldnews.asp?monthyear=9-2024\&day=18\&id=131886\&l=e\&country=\&special=\&ndb=1\&df=1) -- [Cleaning up the garbage patches - The Ocean Cleanup](https://theoceancleanup.com/oceans/) - -### Open Source Designs - -- Products made from marine litter - [filtered] Academy -- [3D Printed Furniture: Komut | HAL Robotics](https://hal-robotics.com/use-cases/komut-3d-printed-furniture-plastic-upcycling/) -- [Loll designs production process: From a poly sheet to an outdoor chair](https://lolldesigns.com/blogs/news/loll-designs-production-process) -- [Upcycled Plastic to Laser Cut Boxes (to Store More Plastic!) - Instructables](https://www.instructables.com/Upcycled-Plastic-to-Laser-Cut-Boxes-to-Store-More-/) - -### Technical Documentation - -- [Recycled. - Tjinco (PDF)](https://www.tjinco.nl/technische_bestanden/Algemene-catalogus-Eco-serie.pdf) \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/products-made-from-marine-litter/config.json b/howtos/products-made-from-marine-litter/config.json index 494c93827..33d6e0b9c 100644 --- a/howtos/products-made-from-marine-litter/config.json +++ b/howtos/products-made-from-marine-litter/config.json @@ -12,7 +12,7 @@ ], "steps": [ { - "text": "### Guide Overview\n\nThis guide focuses on the creation of two products using panels made from polypropylene plastic and recovered fishing nets:\n\n- Urban Bench\n- Dumbbells\n\nFor information on creating panels with a sheet press, refer to the detailed guide titled \"Boards Made from Marine Litter.\"\n\nThis guide will primarily address the detailed process of product creation and manufacturing.", + "text": "On this guide we have two products made from panels or boards of recycled polypropylene plastic and fishing nets recovered from the sea:\n\n• Urban bench.\n• Dumbbells.\n\n You can find the creation of panels with a sheetpress in a expanded guide on other how-to called 'Boards made from marine litter'. \n\nOn this guide we will go deeper into creating and manufacturing of products.", "_animationKey": "uniquedxfukm", "title": "Explanation", "images": [ @@ -83,10 +83,10 @@ } ], "_animationKey": "unique3", - "text": "We typically use CAD and 3D modeling software such as Solidworks and Rhinoceros for 3D modeling, and AutoCAD and Illustrator for defining 2D cutting lines for CNC machining.\n\nWith a predefined design, we proceed to machine the material using a CNC cutting machine.\n\n**Tips**\n\nAim to maximize material usage and manage cutting space efficiently to minimize waste.\n\nPlastic boards are generally softer than wood, allowing for single-stroke cuts with wood-compatible drills, optimizing production time and achieving a cleaner finish. Always perform an initial test.\n\nCollected shavings can be reused as raw material in a sheet press or extrusion machine." + "text": "We usually use CAD and 3D modeling software to design the products and define cutting lines to take it to CNC machine.\n\nSolidworks, Rhinoceros for 3D modeling and Autocad and Illustrator as CAD software to define cutting lines on 2D.\n\nHaving a predefined design, we take the material to be machined on CNC cutting machine.\n\n• Tips •\n\nAlways be careful to make the most of the material you spend, always try to manage the cutting space to avoid wasting the boards.\n\nPlastic boards are a little softer than wood in general, so you could cut in one stroke using the same drill you would use to cut wood. This optimises production time and gives a cleaner finish to plastic parts. Remember always make a test at first.\n\nYou can save the shaving after cut to use it again as raw material on sheetpress or extrusion machine." }, { - "text": "Begin assembly of the bench and its structure once the parts are cut. \n\nFor urban furniture, a metal framework provides stability and durability. \n\n**Tips**\n\nTo connect plastic elements to the metal structure, use galvanized or stainless steel screws and nuts. Although stainless steel is more costly than galvanized, it offers superior resistance to oxidation.\n\nWhen attaching plastic parts, pre-drill holes the size of the screw to prevent breaking or deforming due to excessive pressure.", + "text": "Once we have the cut parts we continue with assembly of the bench and its structure. \n\nIn this case, as it is urban furniture, we have designed a metal structure that allows to complement the object and give it stability and durability. \n\n• Tips •\n\nFor the connection of the plastic elements and the metal structure you can use galvanized or stainless steel screws and nuts. Stainless steel are a little expensive than galvanized ones, but are more resistant to oxidation.\n\nTo screw plastic parts we always recommend to do a drill with the size of the screw you want to install, this prevents the plastic from breaking or deforming when screwing with much pressure.", "title": "Manufacturing and assembly of Urban bench.", "_animationKey": "unique9cdrax", "images": [ @@ -130,7 +130,7 @@ }, { "title": "Manufacturing of Dumbbells.", - "text": "To create dumbbell weights (circular sections), the same marine litter boards used for the bench are CNC machined. Handles are crafted from a colorful mix of recycled plastic bottle caps. An extrusion machine produces plastic rods up to 9.84 feet (3 meters) in varying shapes and thicknesses, either rounded or square.", + "text": "To make dumbbells weights (round pieces) we use the same marine litter boards than bench in previous steps and we also cut them on CNC machine. \n\nFor manufacturing handless of dumbbells we use a colorful mix recycled plastic from bottles caps.\n\nWe use an extrusion machine to make plastic rods 3 meters long and diferent shapes and thicknesses, rounded or square.", "_animationKey": "uniqueok5gb2n", "images": [ { @@ -212,7 +212,7 @@ } ], "_animationKey": "uniquejffghr", - "text": "To assemble the pieces, use stainless steel screws. First, select a drill bit matching the screw size; for instance, use a 3mm (0.12 inches) drill for 4mm (0.16 inches) screws.\n\n**Tip**\n\nFor assembling various plastic parts, torx head screws are recommended for enhanced product security and difficulty in disassembly." + "text": "To assemble the pieces, we used stainless steel screws. So, as we recommended before, the first thing we do is a drill bit the size of the screw we will use, in this case we did 3mm drill to 4mm screws.\n\n• Tip •\n\nTo assemble different types of plastic parts, we have decided to use torx head screws to give security to the products and that they are not so easy to disassemble." } ], "files": [], @@ -262,7 +262,7 @@ "fullPath": "uploads/howtos/hQh3oy94Wu2jj7BJw0B6/WhatsApp Image 2022-10-04 at 15.57.08 - copia-18a8db572a3.jpeg", "src": "C:\\Users\\zx\\Desktop\\osr\\osr-machines\\howtos\\products-made-from-marine-litter\\whatsapp_image_2022-10-04_at_15.57.08_-_copia-18a8db572a3.jpeg" }, - "description": "Production of two products from polypropylene plastic and fishing nets sourced from Spain's coast.\n\nLearn about making boards or panels with this material here [link].", + "description": "Manufacture of two specific products from recycled polypropylene plastic and fishing nets recovered by fishermen from the coast of Spain.\n\nLearn more about creation and manufacture of boards or panels using this material here https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/boards-made-from-marine-litter", "user": { "_modified": "2020-01-15T17:03:59.970Z", "type": "workspace", @@ -420,9 +420,5 @@ "images": [] } }, - "content": "Production of two products from polypropylene plastic and fishing nets sourced from Spain's coast.\n\nLearn about making boards or panels with this material here [link].\n\n\nUser Location: Gandia, Spain\n\n### Guide Overview\n\nThis guide focuses on the creation of two products using panels made from polypropylene plastic and recovered fishing nets:\n\n- Urban Bench\n- Dumbbells\n\nFor information on creating panels with a sheet press, refer to the detailed guide titled \"Boards Made from Marine Litter.\"\n\nThis guide will primarily address the detailed process of product creation and manufacturing.\n\nWe typically use CAD and 3D modeling software such as Solidworks and Rhinoceros for 3D modeling, and AutoCAD and Illustrator for defining 2D cutting lines for CNC machining.\n\nWith a predefined design, we proceed to machine the material using a CNC cutting machine.\n\n**Tips**\n\nAim to maximize material usage and manage cutting space efficiently to minimize waste.\n\nPlastic boards are generally softer than wood, allowing for single-stroke cuts with wood-compatible drills, optimizing production time and achieving a cleaner finish. Always perform an initial test.\n\nCollected shavings can be reused as raw material in a sheet press or extrusion machine.\n\nBegin assembly of the bench and its structure once the parts are cut. \n\nFor urban furniture, a metal framework provides stability and durability. \n\n**Tips**\n\nTo connect plastic elements to the metal structure, use galvanized or stainless steel screws and nuts. Although stainless steel is more costly than galvanized, it offers superior resistance to oxidation.\n\nWhen attaching plastic parts, pre-drill holes the size of the screw to prevent breaking or deforming due to excessive pressure.\n\nTo create dumbbell weights (circular sections), the same marine litter boards used for the bench are CNC machined. Handles are crafted from a colorful mix of recycled plastic bottle caps. An extrusion machine produces plastic rods up to 9.84 feet (3 meters) in varying shapes and thicknesses, either rounded or square.\n\nTo assemble the pieces, use stainless steel screws. First, select a drill bit matching the screw size; for instance, use a 3mm (0.12 inches) drill for 4mm (0.16 inches) screws.\n\n**Tip**\n\nFor assembling various plastic parts, torx head screws are recommended for enhanced product security and difficulty in disassembly.", - "keywords": "polypropylene products, recycled fishing nets, CNC machining, urban bench design, dumbbell manufacturing, marine litter boards, sustainable materials, recycled plastic furniture, 3D modeling CAD, extrusion machine assembly", - "resources": "### Software\n\n- SolidWorks (3D modeling)\n- Rhinoceros (3D modeling)\n- AutoCAD (2D cutting lines)\n- Adobe Illustrator (2D design)\n\n### Hardware\n\n- CNC cutting machine\n- Plastic sheet press (~~[guide](link)~~)\n- Plastic extrusion machine\n\n### Tools & Equipment\n\n- Wood-compatible drill bits\n- Torx head screwdriver\n- Galvanized/stainless steel screws and nuts\n- Power drill (for pre-drilling holes)\n- Metal framework components\n\n### Materials\n\n- Polypropylene plastic (marine litter)\n- Recycled fishing nets\n- Plastic bottle caps (handle production)\n- Stainless steel rods (dumbbell assembly)\n\n### Safety Equipment\n\n- Protective gloves\n- Safety goggles\n- Dust mask (shavings management)", - "references": "## References\n\n### Articles\n\n- [Spanish fishing sector launches pioneering project to recover and recycle discarded fishing gear](https://weareaquaculture.com/news/fisheries/spanish-fishing-sector-launches-pioneering-project-to-recover-and-recycle-discarded-fishing-gear)\n- [Benches and bins made of recycled plastic | Grup Fábregas](https://grupfabregas.com/en/news/benches-and-bins-made-of-recycled-plastic/)\n- [NetPlus® Recycled Fishing Nets - Patagonia](https://www.patagonia.com/our-footprint/netplus-recycled-fishing-nets.html)\n- [100% recycled ocean-bound plastic - tide ocean material](https://www.tide.earth/en/tide-ocean-material/)\n- [Spanish fishing sector to recover at least 100 tons of nets and gear as part of 'Redes de España' project](https://seafood.media/fis/worldnEws/worldnews.asp?monthyear=9-2024\\&day=18\\&id=131886\\&l=e\\&country=\\&special=\\&ndb=1\\&df=1)\n- [Cleaning up the garbage patches - The Ocean Cleanup](https://theoceancleanup.com/oceans/)\n\n### Open Source Designs\n\n- Products made from marine litter - [filtered] Academy\n- [3D Printed Furniture: Komut | HAL Robotics](https://hal-robotics.com/use-cases/komut-3d-printed-furniture-plastic-upcycling/)\n- [Loll designs production process: From a poly sheet to an outdoor chair](https://lolldesigns.com/blogs/news/loll-designs-production-process)\n- [Upcycled Plastic to Laser Cut Boxes (to Store More Plastic!) - Instructables](https://www.instructables.com/Upcycled-Plastic-to-Laser-Cut-Boxes-to-Store-More-/)\n\n### Technical Documentation\n\n- [Recycled. - Tjinco (PDF)](https://www.tjinco.nl/technische_bestanden/Algemene-catalogus-Eco-serie.pdf)", - "brief": "Create eco-friendly urban benches and dumbbells using Spanish coastal fishing nets and polypropylene plastic. Explore sustainable production techniques here." + "content": "Manufacture of two specific products from recycled polypropylene plastic and fishing nets recovered by fishermen from the coast of Spain.\n\nLearn more about creation and manufacture of boards or panels using this material here https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/boards-made-from-marine-litter\n\n\nUser Location: Gandia, Spain\n\nOn this guide we have two products made from panels or boards of recycled polypropylene plastic and fishing nets recovered from the sea:\n\n• Urban bench.\n• Dumbbells.\n\n You can find the creation of panels with a sheetpress in a expanded guide on other how-to called 'Boards made from marine litter'. \n\nOn this guide we will go deeper into creating and manufacturing of products.\n\nWe usually use CAD and 3D modeling software to design the products and define cutting lines to take it to CNC machine.\n\nSolidworks, Rhinoceros for 3D modeling and Autocad and Illustrator as CAD software to define cutting lines on 2D.\n\nHaving a predefined design, we take the material to be machined on CNC cutting machine.\n\n• Tips •\n\nAlways be careful to make the most of the material you spend, always try to manage the cutting space to avoid wasting the boards.\n\nPlastic boards are a little softer than wood in general, so you could cut in one stroke using the same drill you would use to cut wood. This optimises production time and gives a cleaner finish to plastic parts. Remember always make a test at first.\n\nYou can save the shaving after cut to use it again as raw material on sheetpress or extrusion machine.\n\nOnce we have the cut parts we continue with assembly of the bench and its structure. \n\nIn this case, as it is urban furniture, we have designed a metal structure that allows to complement the object and give it stability and durability. \n\n• Tips •\n\nFor the connection of the plastic elements and the metal structure you can use galvanized or stainless steel screws and nuts. Stainless steel are a little expensive than galvanized ones, but are more resistant to oxidation.\n\nTo screw plastic parts we always recommend to do a drill with the size of the screw you want to install, this prevents the plastic from breaking or deforming when screwing with much pressure.\n\nTo make dumbbells weights (round pieces) we use the same marine litter boards than bench in previous steps and we also cut them on CNC machine. \n\nFor manufacturing handless of dumbbells we use a colorful mix recycled plastic from bottles caps.\n\nWe use an extrusion machine to make plastic rods 3 meters long and diferent shapes and thicknesses, rounded or square.\n\nTo assemble the pieces, we used stainless steel screws. So, as we recommended before, the first thing we do is a drill bit the size of the screw we will use, in this case we did 3mm drill to 4mm screws.\n\n• Tip •\n\nTo assemble different types of plastic parts, we have decided to use torx head screws to give security to the products and that they are not so easy to disassemble." } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/rapid-fire-method-for-injection--300-face-shields-a-day/README.md b/howtos/rapid-fire-method-for-injection--300-face-shields-a-day/README.md index f4423a2f3..f19284302 100644 --- a/howtos/rapid-fire-method-for-injection--300-face-shields-a-day/README.md +++ b/howtos/rapid-fire-method-for-injection--300-face-shields-a-day/README.md @@ -1,45 +1,41 @@ --- title: Rapid-Fire-Method for Injection / 300 Face Shields a Day slug: rapid-fire-method-for-injection--300-face-shields-a-day -description: ### Rapid-Fire Method for Faster Part Production +description: With our Rapid-Fire-Method you can reduce your time-per-part by 50%. -Our Rapid-Fire Method can cut production time per part by 50%. +We started 3D-Printing face shields a while ago, but we couldn´t keep up with the demand. So we built a small injection machine to speed up production. Though we had to wait 7-8 minutes bevor we could make another face shield frame, because the plastic flakes had to heat up. -Initially, we started 3D-printing face shields but couldn’t meet the demand. To optimize production, we built a small injection machine. However, each face shield frame required a wait of 7 to 8 minutes due to the heating of plastic flakes. +To reduce the time-per-part we invented the Rapid-Fire-Method. Using our extruder we produce hot munition for the injection and instantly process it. -To address this, we developed the Rapid-Fire Method. By using our extruder, we produce and process heated material immediately. +We made a video how to do this. Check it out: -Watch our instructional video here: - -[Rapid-Fire Method Video](https://youtu.be/69aYBJfxHw0) +https://youtu.be/69aYBJfxHw0 tags: ["PP","injection","HDPE","extrusion"] category: Guides difficulty: Medium time: < 1 week -keywords: Rapid-Fire Method, faster part production, injection machine, 3D printing, face shield production, plastic extrusion, mold optimization, cycle time reduction, production efficiency, heated plastic processing +keywords: location: Oppenheim, Germany --- # Rapid-Fire-Method for Injection / 300 Face Shields a Day ![Rapid-Fire-Method for Injection / 300 Face Shields a Day](2F80C5D6-A07B-4B07-84E3-DA703DACE960.png) -### Rapid-Fire Method for Faster Part Production +With our Rapid-Fire-Method you can reduce your time-per-part by 50%. -Our Rapid-Fire Method can cut production time per part by 50%. +We started 3D-Printing face shields a while ago, but we couldn´t keep up with the demand. So we built a small injection machine to speed up production. Though we had to wait 7-8 minutes bevor we could make another face shield frame, because the plastic flakes had to heat up. -Initially, we started 3D-printing face shields but couldn’t meet the demand. To optimize production, we built a small injection machine. However, each face shield frame required a wait of 7 to 8 minutes due to the heating of plastic flakes. +To reduce the time-per-part we invented the Rapid-Fire-Method. Using our extruder we produce hot munition for the injection and instantly process it. -To address this, we developed the Rapid-Fire Method. By using our extruder, we produce and process heated material immediately. +We made a video how to do this. Check it out: -Watch our instructional video here: - -[Rapid-Fire Method Video](https://youtu.be/69aYBJfxHw0) +https://youtu.be/69aYBJfxHw0 User Location: Oppenheim, Germany ## Steps ### Step 1: Extrude hot munition -Instead of filling the injection machine with flakes, use your extruder to produce hot material. Remove the nozzle to extrude thick strips. Immediately fill the injection barrel with these strips. +Instead of filling up the injection machine with flakes, use your extruder to produce hot munition. Remove the nozzle, in order to extrude thick stripes. Instantly take them and fill your injection barrel with them. -In the extruder, the plastic is well-mixed and heated, making it ready for processing in the injection machine. +In the extruder, the plastic is mixed well and heated properly, so it is instantly processable with the injection machine. ![Step 1 Extrude hot munition.PNG](./Step_1_Extrude_hot_munition.PNG) @@ -52,14 +48,14 @@ In the extruder, the plastic is well-mixed and heated, making it ready for proce ### Step 2: Load Injection Machine -Insert the heated material into the injection machine barrel. Extrude until slightly thinner than the barrel's diameter for optimal loading. If too thick, loading becomes difficult; if too thin, it compromises capacity. +Take the hot stripes and insert them into the barrel of the injection machine. Try to extrude them a bit thinner than the diameter of your barrel. If they are too thick it will be a pain to load the machine. If they are to thin the barrel won't be loaded to its full extent. ![Step 2 load injection.PNG](./Step_2_load_injection.PNG) ### Step 3: Fire the injection Machine -Position the mold under the injection machine and inject the melted plastic. Here, we utilize a professional mold for face shields. To optimize efficiency, assign one person to reload the machine while another manages the mold. This process results in a cycle time of approximately 2 minutes per part. +Now place the mold under your injection machine and inject the melted plastic. In this case, we are using the professional mold for face shields from Plastic Preneur (a cool company from Austria). In order to achieve maximum efficiency, we have one person reload the injection machine, while the other person opens & closes the mold. This way, we achieve a cycle of about 2 minutes per part. ![Step 3 inject.PNG](./Step_3_inject.PNG) @@ -71,26 +67,4 @@ Position the mold under the injection machine and inject the melted plastic. Her ![D9301E2A-A803-4392-8B6A-1D381C189A77.jpg](./D9301E2A-A803-4392-8B6A-1D381C189A77.jpg) ## Resources -### Tools - -- Extruder nozzle removal tools - -### Software - -- Not explicitly mentioned in the tutorial - -### Hardware - -- Injection molding machine -- Plastic extruder (modified without nozzle) -- Professional face shield mold -- Thermal heating system (integrated) -- RAW MATERIAL: Plastic flakes ([Production video reference](https://youtu.be/69aYBJfxHw0)) -## References -## References - -### YouTube - -- [Rapid-Fire Method Video](https://youtu.be/69aYBJfxHw0) - -*Other categories (Articles, Books, Papers, Opensource Designs) have no referenced links in the provided text.* \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/rapid-fire-method-for-injection--300-face-shields-a-day/config.json b/howtos/rapid-fire-method-for-injection--300-face-shields-a-day/config.json index 7b478eede..e202d3030 100644 --- a/howtos/rapid-fire-method-for-injection--300-face-shields-a-day/config.json +++ b/howtos/rapid-fire-method-for-injection--300-face-shields-a-day/config.json @@ -43,7 +43,7 @@ "alt": "Step 1 Munition.PNG" } ], - "text": "Instead of filling the injection machine with flakes, use your extruder to produce hot material. Remove the nozzle to extrude thick strips. Immediately fill the injection barrel with these strips.\n\nIn the extruder, the plastic is well-mixed and heated, making it ready for processing in the injection machine.", + "text": "Instead of filling up the injection machine with flakes, use your extruder to produce hot munition. Remove the nozzle, in order to extrude thick stripes. Instantly take them and fill your injection barrel with them. \n\nIn the extruder, the plastic is mixed well and heated properly, so it is instantly processable with the injection machine.", "_animationKey": "unique1" }, { @@ -62,7 +62,7 @@ "alt": "Step 2 load injection.PNG" } ], - "text": "Insert the heated material into the injection machine barrel. Extrude until slightly thinner than the barrel's diameter for optimal loading. If too thick, loading becomes difficult; if too thin, it compromises capacity.", + "text": "Take the hot stripes and insert them into the barrel of the injection machine. Try to extrude them a bit thinner than the diameter of your barrel. If they are too thick it will be a pain to load the machine. If they are to thin the barrel won't be loaded to its full extent.", "_animationKey": "unique2" }, { @@ -106,7 +106,7 @@ } ], "_animationKey": "unique3", - "text": "Position the mold under the injection machine and inject the melted plastic. Here, we utilize a professional mold for face shields. To optimize efficiency, assign one person to reload the machine while another manages the mold. This process results in a cycle time of approximately 2 minutes per part." + "text": "Now place the mold under your injection machine and inject the melted plastic. In this case, we are using the professional mold for face shields from Plastic Preneur (a cool company from Austria). In order to achieve maximum efficiency, we have one person reload the injection machine, while the other person opens & closes the mold. This way, we achieve a cycle of about 2 minutes per part." } ], "_id": "vJXgzNtpi35Cpq6erZzx", @@ -133,7 +133,7 @@ "greenellipsis" ], "comments": [], - "description": "### Rapid-Fire Method for Faster Part Production\n\nOur Rapid-Fire Method can cut production time per part by 50%.\n\nInitially, we started 3D-printing face shields but couldn’t meet the demand. To optimize production, we built a small injection machine. However, each face shield frame required a wait of 7 to 8 minutes due to the heating of plastic flakes.\n\nTo address this, we developed the Rapid-Fire Method. By using our extruder, we produce and process heated material immediately.\n\nWatch our instructional video here:\n\n[Rapid-Fire Method Video](https://youtu.be/69aYBJfxHw0)", + "description": "With our Rapid-Fire-Method you can reduce your time-per-part by 50%.\n\nWe started 3D-Printing face shields a while ago, but we couldn´t keep up with the demand. So we built a small injection machine to speed up production. Though we had to wait 7-8 minutes bevor we could make another face shield frame, because the plastic flakes had to heat up. \n\nTo reduce the time-per-part we invented the Rapid-Fire-Method. Using our extruder we produce hot munition for the injection and instantly process it.\n\nWe made a video how to do this. Check it out:\n\nhttps://youtu.be/69aYBJfxHw0", "total_downloads": 0, "category": { "_modified": "2022-09-18T08:51:47.196Z", @@ -313,9 +313,5 @@ "images": [] } }, - "content": "### Rapid-Fire Method for Faster Part Production\n\nOur Rapid-Fire Method can cut production time per part by 50%.\n\nInitially, we started 3D-printing face shields but couldn’t meet the demand. To optimize production, we built a small injection machine. However, each face shield frame required a wait of 7 to 8 minutes due to the heating of plastic flakes.\n\nTo address this, we developed the Rapid-Fire Method. By using our extruder, we produce and process heated material immediately.\n\nWatch our instructional video here:\n\n[Rapid-Fire Method Video](https://youtu.be/69aYBJfxHw0)\n\n\nUser Location: Oppenheim, Germany\n\nInstead of filling the injection machine with flakes, use your extruder to produce hot material. Remove the nozzle to extrude thick strips. Immediately fill the injection barrel with these strips.\n\nIn the extruder, the plastic is well-mixed and heated, making it ready for processing in the injection machine.\n\nInsert the heated material into the injection machine barrel. Extrude until slightly thinner than the barrel's diameter for optimal loading. If too thick, loading becomes difficult; if too thin, it compromises capacity.\n\nPosition the mold under the injection machine and inject the melted plastic. Here, we utilize a professional mold for face shields. To optimize efficiency, assign one person to reload the machine while another manages the mold. This process results in a cycle time of approximately 2 minutes per part.", - "keywords": "Rapid-Fire Method, faster part production, injection machine, 3D printing, face shield production, plastic extrusion, mold optimization, cycle time reduction, production efficiency, heated plastic processing", - "resources": "### Tools\n\n- Extruder nozzle removal tools\n\n### Software\n\n- Not explicitly mentioned in the tutorial\n\n### Hardware\n\n- Injection molding machine\n- Plastic extruder (modified without nozzle)\n- Professional face shield mold\n- Thermal heating system (integrated)\n- RAW MATERIAL: Plastic flakes ([Production video reference](https://youtu.be/69aYBJfxHw0))", - "references": "## References\n\n### YouTube\n\n- [Rapid-Fire Method Video](https://youtu.be/69aYBJfxHw0)\n\n*Other categories (Articles, Books, Papers, Opensource Designs) have no referenced links in the provided text.*", - "brief": "Optimize production with our Rapid-Fire Method, reducing part production time by 50% using an extruder for heated material and faster injection cycles." + "content": "With our Rapid-Fire-Method you can reduce your time-per-part by 50%.\n\nWe started 3D-Printing face shields a while ago, but we couldn´t keep up with the demand. So we built a small injection machine to speed up production. Though we had to wait 7-8 minutes bevor we could make another face shield frame, because the plastic flakes had to heat up. \n\nTo reduce the time-per-part we invented the Rapid-Fire-Method. Using our extruder we produce hot munition for the injection and instantly process it.\n\nWe made a video how to do this. Check it out:\n\nhttps://youtu.be/69aYBJfxHw0\n\n\nUser Location: Oppenheim, Germany\n\nInstead of filling up the injection machine with flakes, use your extruder to produce hot munition. Remove the nozzle, in order to extrude thick stripes. Instantly take them and fill your injection barrel with them. \n\nIn the extruder, the plastic is mixed well and heated properly, so it is instantly processable with the injection machine.\n\nTake the hot stripes and insert them into the barrel of the injection machine. Try to extrude them a bit thinner than the diameter of your barrel. If they are too thick it will be a pain to load the machine. If they are to thin the barrel won't be loaded to its full extent.\n\nNow place the mold under your injection machine and inject the melted plastic. In this case, we are using the professional mold for face shields from Plastic Preneur (a cool company from Austria). In order to achieve maximum efficiency, we have one person reload the injection machine, while the other person opens & closes the mold. This way, we achieve a cycle of about 2 minutes per part." } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/recycle-plastic-waste-into-3d-printing-filament/README.md b/howtos/recycle-plastic-waste-into-3d-printing-filament/README.md index 9e7c97180..04c7ebcd2 100644 --- a/howtos/recycle-plastic-waste-into-3d-printing-filament/README.md +++ b/howtos/recycle-plastic-waste-into-3d-printing-filament/README.md @@ -1,35 +1,35 @@ --- title: Recycle plastic waste into 3d printing filament slug: recycle-plastic-waste-into-3d-printing-filament -description: This guide demonstrates the process of converting plastic waste into 3D printing filament. It outlines key considerations and necessary equipment for optimal results. +description: In this how to we show you how you can recycle plastic waste into 3d printing filament. There are some things to watch out for and different machines needed to make for the best results. -For a visual guide, please watch our video: -[YouTube Video](https://youtu.be/IcmKFDxsUgA) +You can check out our How-To video here: +https://youtu.be/IcmKFDxsUgA -For more information, visit our website: -[Qitech Industries](https://www.qitech.de/en/industries) +Feel free to visit our website :) +https://www.qitech.de/en/industries tags: ["hack","other machine","extrusion","shredder"] category: Guides difficulty: Easy time: < 5 hours -keywords: plastic waste, 3D printing filament, extrusion process, filament winding, shredder methods, polymer drying guide, extruder blueprint, filament cooling system, JARVIS Shredder, JARVIS Airpath +keywords: location: Darmstadt, Germany --- # Recycle plastic waste into 3d printing filament ![Recycle plastic waste into 3d printing filament](Ohne_Titel.jpg) -This guide demonstrates the process of converting plastic waste into 3D printing filament. It outlines key considerations and necessary equipment for optimal results. +In this how to we show you how you can recycle plastic waste into 3d printing filament. There are some things to watch out for and different machines needed to make for the best results. -For a visual guide, please watch our video: -[YouTube Video](https://youtu.be/IcmKFDxsUgA) +You can check out our How-To video here: +https://youtu.be/IcmKFDxsUgA -For more information, visit our website: -[Qitech Industries](https://www.qitech.de/en/industries) +Feel free to visit our website :) +https://www.qitech.de/en/industries User Location: Darmstadt, Germany ## Steps ### Step 1: Shredding -Begin by shredding the material. We utilize the JARVIS Shredder, but if you lack a shredder, consider nearby workshops or budget methods such as a hand-cranked shredder, document shredder, or scissors-blender combination. A more uniform granulate will enhance the final result. +First, you will have to shred the material. We use our JARVIS Shredder, but if you don't have access to a shredder you can also look for workshops nearby on the [filtered] map or try some budget methods, e.g. a hand cranked shredder, a document shredder or the scissors-blender-combo. The more uniform the granulate is, the better the final result will be. ![1 Shred.jpg](./1_Shred.jpg) @@ -42,7 +42,9 @@ Begin by shredding the material. We utilize the JARVIS Shredder, but if you lack ### Step 2: Drying -To proceed, dry the material. Refer to our comprehensive guide on drying polymers using a custom-built dry box available here: +The next step is drying the material. We already published a thorough How-to on drying polymers with a self-built dry box, which you can check out here: + + ![1 Drying.jpg](./1_Drying.jpg) @@ -52,14 +54,11 @@ To proceed, dry the material. Refer to our comprehensive guide on drying polymer ### Step 3: Extruding -### Extrusion Process - -The next key phase is extrusion, for which an extruder is essential. You can construct one using the provided blueprints or purchase one online. A comparison of different extruder models is available [here](https://www.qitech.de/en/ind/academy-area/filament-extruder-comparision). - -Our experience with the 6th generation extruder highlights three critical factors for success: -1. Proper compression screw -2. Accurate temperature measurement and control -3. Easily exchangeable nozzles +Next up is the main step: extruding. Obviously, you will need an extruder. You can build one yourself using the [filtered] blueprints ( or buy one online, e.g. on [filtered] Bazar. We also created a comparison list of different extruder models on our website, you can check it out here: qitech.de: qitech.de/en/ind/academy-area/filament-extruder-comparision. +We work with our 6th generation extruder and along the way of the development we learned that the following 3 things are especially important: +1. A proper compression screw +2. Precise temperature measurements and controls +3. Nozzles easily exchangeable ![1 Extruding.jpg](./1_Extruding.jpg) @@ -72,7 +71,8 @@ Our experience with the 6th generation extruder highlights three critical factor ### Step 4: Cooling -With hot filament exiting the extruder, it must be cooled and wound onto a spool. Cooling can be done with water or air; however, an air cooling system is recommended as it is simpler and effective for outputs under 6.6 lbs/hr (3 kg/h). A basic and economical option is to use a horizontally positioned tower fan beneath the filament. Our custom cooling unit, the JARVIS Airpath, allows precise fan control, ensuring the filament hardens sufficiently but remains flexible for easy winding. The winding process is optimal when the filament tracks adhere slightly to each other. +With hot filament coming out of the extruder it needs to get cooled and wound onto a spool. You can cool the Filament using water or air. We recommend using an air cooling system, because water cooling is a complicated mess and as long as you are making less than 3Kg/h an air cooling system works just fine. The most simple and cheap method is using a tower ventilator which you position horizontally under the filament. We use our own cooling unit, the JARVIS Airpath. Its fans can be controlled precisely in order to harden the filament but keep it soft enough to easily wind it on spools. The winding process will work best if the single filament tracks stick to each other slightly. + ![1 Cooling.jpg](./1_Cooling.jpg) @@ -82,11 +82,8 @@ With hot filament exiting the extruder, it must be cooled and wound onto a spool ### Step 5: Winding -### Filament Winding Process - -To prepare the filament for 3D printing, use a filament winder equipped with a pull unit, a guider (to distribute the filament evenly), and a rotating spool axis. It is essential to maintain tension in the filament to avoid loose spools. - -For this task, we employ a winding unit that automatically adjusts the spool motor speed. This ensures precise winding and consistent filament diameter. Insert the filament into the puller, thread it through the guider, and onto the spool. +Finally, the filament can be wound onto a spool to be used with a 3d printer later. You will need a filament winder which should have a pull unit, a guider (to spool the single tracks from one side to the other) and a turning spool axis. An important factor to look out for when buying/building a Winder is that the filament always stays on tension so you don't end up with loose spools. +For this step, we use our JARVIS Winder; a winding unit that adjusts its spool motor speed automatically and makes perfect winding possible while maintaining the diameter of the filament as well. Simply insert the filament into the puller, thread it through the guider and then into the spool. ![1 Winding.jpg](./1_Winding.jpg) @@ -96,39 +93,10 @@ For this task, we employ a winding unit that automatically adjusts the spool mot ### Step 6: Printing -You can now use your new filament with a 3D printer. +Now you can put your brand new filament to use with a 3d printer. Happy printing! :) ![Bildschirmfoto 2021-08-12 um 10.39.12.png](./Bildschirmfoto_2021-08-12_um_10.39.12.png) ## Resources -### Tools - -- JARVIS Shredder ([Qitech Industries](https://www.qitech.de/en/industries)) -- Hand-cranked shredder -- Document shredder -- Scissors-blender combination -- Custom-built dry box ([drying guide](https://www.qitech.de/en/industries)) - -### Hardware - -- Filament extruder ([model comparison](https://www.qitech.de/en/ind/academy-area/filament-extruder-comparision)) -- 6th generation extruder with compression screw and exchangeable nozzles -- Horizontally positioned tower fan (cooling) -- JARVIS Airpath cooling unit -- Filament winder with pull unit and automatic spool motor - -### Software - -No specific software mentioned in the tutorial. -## References -## References - -### Articles - -- [Qitech Industries](https://www.qitech.de/en/industries) -- [Filament Extruder Comparison](https://www.qitech.de/en/ind/academy-area/filament-extruder-comparision) - -### Youtube - -- [Plastic Waste to 3D Filament Guide](https://youtu.be/IcmKFDxsUgA) \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/recycle-plastic-waste-into-3d-printing-filament/config.json b/howtos/recycle-plastic-waste-into-3d-printing-filament/config.json index 1ddfbefb5..82e93a716 100644 --- a/howtos/recycle-plastic-waste-into-3d-printing-filament/config.json +++ b/howtos/recycle-plastic-waste-into-3d-printing-filament/config.json @@ -16,7 +16,7 @@ { "title": "Shredding ", "_animationKey": "unique1", - "text": "Begin by shredding the material. We utilize the JARVIS Shredder, but if you lack a shredder, consider nearby workshops or budget methods such as a hand-cranked shredder, document shredder, or scissors-blender combination. A more uniform granulate will enhance the final result.", + "text": "First, you will have to shred the material. We use our JARVIS Shredder, but if you don't have access to a shredder you can also look for workshops nearby on the [filtered] map or try some budget methods, e.g. a hand cranked shredder, a document shredder or the scissors-blender-combo. The more uniform the granulate is, the better the final result will be.", "images": [ { "downloadUrl": "https://firebasestorage.googleapis.com/v0/b/onearmyworld.appspot.com/o/uploads%2Fhowtos%2FCXK8RtQGUVn4kCMdh3XJ%2F1%20Shred.jpg?alt=media&token=9e1cfb31-6afb-4e92-90e5-32f59fa4fbc2", @@ -57,7 +57,7 @@ ] }, { - "text": "To proceed, dry the material. Refer to our comprehensive guide on drying polymers using a custom-built dry box available here:", + "text": "The next step is drying the material. We already published a thorough How-to on drying polymers with a self-built dry box, which you can check out here:\n\n", "title": "Drying", "images": [ { @@ -128,7 +128,7 @@ } ], "_animationKey": "unique3", - "text": "### Extrusion Process\n\nThe next key phase is extrusion, for which an extruder is essential. You can construct one using the provided blueprints or purchase one online. A comparison of different extruder models is available [here](https://www.qitech.de/en/ind/academy-area/filament-extruder-comparision).\n\nOur experience with the 6th generation extruder highlights three critical factors for success:\n1. Proper compression screw\n2. Accurate temperature measurement and control\n3. Easily exchangeable nozzles" + "text": "Next up is the main step: extruding. Obviously, you will need an extruder. You can build one yourself using the [filtered] blueprints ( or buy one online, e.g. on [filtered] Bazar. We also created a comparison list of different extruder models on our website, you can check it out here: qitech.de: qitech.de/en/ind/academy-area/filament-extruder-comparision. \nWe work with our 6th generation extruder and along the way of the development we learned that the following 3 things are especially important:\n1. A proper compression screw\n2. Precise temperature measurements and controls\n3. Nozzles easily exchangeable" }, { "title": "Cooling", @@ -159,7 +159,7 @@ } ], "_animationKey": "unique3nx72f", - "text": "With hot filament exiting the extruder, it must be cooled and wound onto a spool. Cooling can be done with water or air; however, an air cooling system is recommended as it is simpler and effective for outputs under 6.6 lbs/hr (3 kg/h). A basic and economical option is to use a horizontally positioned tower fan beneath the filament. Our custom cooling unit, the JARVIS Airpath, allows precise fan control, ensuring the filament hardens sufficiently but remains flexible for easy winding. The winding process is optimal when the filament tracks adhere slightly to each other." + "text": "With hot filament coming out of the extruder it needs to get cooled and wound onto a spool. You can cool the Filament using water or air. We recommend using an air cooling system, because water cooling is a complicated mess and as long as you are making less than 3Kg/h an air cooling system works just fine. The most simple and cheap method is using a tower ventilator which you position horizontally under the filament. We use our own cooling unit, the JARVIS Airpath. Its fans can be controlled precisely in order to harden the filament but keep it soft enough to easily wind it on spools. The winding process will work best if the single filament tracks stick to each other slightly.\n" }, { "images": [ @@ -190,10 +190,10 @@ ], "title": "Winding", "_animationKey": "uniquedrw2km", - "text": "### Filament Winding Process\n\nTo prepare the filament for 3D printing, use a filament winder equipped with a pull unit, a guider (to distribute the filament evenly), and a rotating spool axis. It is essential to maintain tension in the filament to avoid loose spools.\n\nFor this task, we employ a winding unit that automatically adjusts the spool motor speed. This ensures precise winding and consistent filament diameter. Insert the filament into the puller, thread it through the guider, and onto the spool." + "text": "Finally, the filament can be wound onto a spool to be used with a 3d printer later. You will need a filament winder which should have a pull unit, a guider (to spool the single tracks from one side to the other) and a turning spool axis. An important factor to look out for when buying/building a Winder is that the filament always stays on tension so you don't end up with loose spools.\nFor this step, we use our JARVIS Winder; a winding unit that adjusts its spool motor speed automatically and makes perfect winding possible while maintaining the diameter of the filament as well. Simply insert the filament into the puller, thread it through the guider and then into the spool." }, { - "text": "You can now use your new filament with a 3D printer.", + "text": "Now you can put your brand new filament to use with a 3d printer. Happy printing! :)", "title": "Printing", "_animationKey": "uniquewryu8y", "images": [ @@ -212,7 +212,7 @@ ] } ], - "description": "This guide demonstrates the process of converting plastic waste into 3D printing filament. It outlines key considerations and necessary equipment for optimal results.\n\nFor a visual guide, please watch our video: \n[YouTube Video](https://youtu.be/IcmKFDxsUgA)\n\nFor more information, visit our website: \n[Qitech Industries](https://www.qitech.de/en/industries)", + "description": "In this how to we show you how you can recycle plastic waste into 3d printing filament. There are some things to watch out for and different machines needed to make for the best results.\n\nYou can check out our How-To video here:\nhttps://youtu.be/IcmKFDxsUgA\n\nFeel free to visit our website :)\nhttps://www.qitech.de/en/industries", "comments": [], "votedUsefulBy": [ "adrivas", @@ -434,9 +434,5 @@ "images": [] } }, - "content": "This guide demonstrates the process of converting plastic waste into 3D printing filament. It outlines key considerations and necessary equipment for optimal results.\n\nFor a visual guide, please watch our video: \n[YouTube Video](https://youtu.be/IcmKFDxsUgA)\n\nFor more information, visit our website: \n[Qitech Industries](https://www.qitech.de/en/industries)\n\n\nUser Location: Darmstadt, Germany\n\nBegin by shredding the material. We utilize the JARVIS Shredder, but if you lack a shredder, consider nearby workshops or budget methods such as a hand-cranked shredder, document shredder, or scissors-blender combination. A more uniform granulate will enhance the final result.\n\nTo proceed, dry the material. Refer to our comprehensive guide on drying polymers using a custom-built dry box available here:\n\n### Extrusion Process\n\nThe next key phase is extrusion, for which an extruder is essential. You can construct one using the provided blueprints or purchase one online. A comparison of different extruder models is available [here](https://www.qitech.de/en/ind/academy-area/filament-extruder-comparision).\n\nOur experience with the 6th generation extruder highlights three critical factors for success:\n1. Proper compression screw\n2. Accurate temperature measurement and control\n3. Easily exchangeable nozzles\n\nWith hot filament exiting the extruder, it must be cooled and wound onto a spool. Cooling can be done with water or air; however, an air cooling system is recommended as it is simpler and effective for outputs under 6.6 lbs/hr (3 kg/h). A basic and economical option is to use a horizontally positioned tower fan beneath the filament. Our custom cooling unit, the JARVIS Airpath, allows precise fan control, ensuring the filament hardens sufficiently but remains flexible for easy winding. The winding process is optimal when the filament tracks adhere slightly to each other.\n\n### Filament Winding Process\n\nTo prepare the filament for 3D printing, use a filament winder equipped with a pull unit, a guider (to distribute the filament evenly), and a rotating spool axis. It is essential to maintain tension in the filament to avoid loose spools.\n\nFor this task, we employ a winding unit that automatically adjusts the spool motor speed. This ensures precise winding and consistent filament diameter. Insert the filament into the puller, thread it through the guider, and onto the spool.\n\nYou can now use your new filament with a 3D printer.", - "keywords": "plastic waste, 3D printing filament, extrusion process, filament winding, shredder methods, polymer drying guide, extruder blueprint, filament cooling system, JARVIS Shredder, JARVIS Airpath", - "resources": "### Tools\n\n- JARVIS Shredder ([Qitech Industries](https://www.qitech.de/en/industries))\n- Hand-cranked shredder\n- Document shredder\n- Scissors-blender combination\n- Custom-built dry box ([drying guide](https://www.qitech.de/en/industries))\n\n### Hardware\n\n- Filament extruder ([model comparison](https://www.qitech.de/en/ind/academy-area/filament-extruder-comparision))\n- 6th generation extruder with compression screw and exchangeable nozzles\n- Horizontally positioned tower fan (cooling)\n- JARVIS Airpath cooling unit\n- Filament winder with pull unit and automatic spool motor\n\n### Software\n\nNo specific software mentioned in the tutorial.", - "references": "## References\n\n### Articles\n\n- [Qitech Industries](https://www.qitech.de/en/industries)\n- [Filament Extruder Comparison](https://www.qitech.de/en/ind/academy-area/filament-extruder-comparision)\n\n### Youtube\n\n- [Plastic Waste to 3D Filament Guide](https://youtu.be/IcmKFDxsUgA)", - "brief": "Convert plastic waste into 3D printing filament with our guide on necessary equipment, extrusion, and winding processes for efficient and sustainable results." + "content": "In this how to we show you how you can recycle plastic waste into 3d printing filament. There are some things to watch out for and different machines needed to make for the best results.\n\nYou can check out our How-To video here:\nhttps://youtu.be/IcmKFDxsUgA\n\nFeel free to visit our website :)\nhttps://www.qitech.de/en/industries\n\n\nUser Location: Darmstadt, Germany\n\nFirst, you will have to shred the material. We use our JARVIS Shredder, but if you don't have access to a shredder you can also look for workshops nearby on the [filtered] map or try some budget methods, e.g. a hand cranked shredder, a document shredder or the scissors-blender-combo. The more uniform the granulate is, the better the final result will be.\n\nThe next step is drying the material. We already published a thorough How-to on drying polymers with a self-built dry box, which you can check out here:\n\n\n\nNext up is the main step: extruding. Obviously, you will need an extruder. You can build one yourself using the [filtered] blueprints ( or buy one online, e.g. on [filtered] Bazar. We also created a comparison list of different extruder models on our website, you can check it out here: qitech.de: qitech.de/en/ind/academy-area/filament-extruder-comparision. \nWe work with our 6th generation extruder and along the way of the development we learned that the following 3 things are especially important:\n1. A proper compression screw\n2. Precise temperature measurements and controls\n3. Nozzles easily exchangeable\n\nWith hot filament coming out of the extruder it needs to get cooled and wound onto a spool. You can cool the Filament using water or air. We recommend using an air cooling system, because water cooling is a complicated mess and as long as you are making less than 3Kg/h an air cooling system works just fine. The most simple and cheap method is using a tower ventilator which you position horizontally under the filament. We use our own cooling unit, the JARVIS Airpath. Its fans can be controlled precisely in order to harden the filament but keep it soft enough to easily wind it on spools. The winding process will work best if the single filament tracks stick to each other slightly.\n\n\nFinally, the filament can be wound onto a spool to be used with a 3d printer later. You will need a filament winder which should have a pull unit, a guider (to spool the single tracks from one side to the other) and a turning spool axis. An important factor to look out for when buying/building a Winder is that the filament always stays on tension so you don't end up with loose spools.\nFor this step, we use our JARVIS Winder; a winding unit that adjusts its spool motor speed automatically and makes perfect winding possible while maintaining the diameter of the filament as well. Simply insert the filament into the puller, thread it through the guider and then into the spool.\n\nNow you can put your brand new filament to use with a 3d printer. Happy printing! :)" } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/reduce-micro-plastic--dust-when-shredding/README.md b/howtos/reduce-micro-plastic--dust-when-shredding/README.md index 446b5559e..98e00da9a 100644 --- a/howtos/reduce-micro-plastic--dust-when-shredding/README.md +++ b/howtos/reduce-micro-plastic--dust-when-shredding/README.md @@ -1,65 +1,65 @@ --- title: Reduce micro-plastic & dust when shredding slug: reduce-micro-plastic--dust-when-shredding -description: # Shredder Upgrade for Dust Minimization +description: Minimise micro-plastic and dust with this simple shredder upgrade! This simple hack also helps when it comes time to clean your shredder for colour or material changes. -Reduce micro-plastic and dust from your shredder with this effective upgrade. It also simplifies cleaning when changing colors or materials. +You'll need the following components for this project: +• Vacuum +• 20L Bucket +• Cyclone Dust Collector +• Funnel -### Required Components: -- Vacuum -- 5.3-gallon (20L) Bucket -- Cyclone Dust Collector -- Funnel tags: ["hack","shredder","collection"] category: Guides difficulty: Easy time: < 1 week -keywords: shredder upgrade, dust minimization, cyclone dust collector, vacuum selection guide, Melbourne workshop, backpack vacuum, dust cyclone, dust extractor, funnel installation, DIY cyclone assembly. +keywords: location: Melbourne, Australia --- # Reduce micro-plastic & dust when shredding ![Reduce micro-plastic & dust when shredding](HowTo_Slide.jpg) -# Shredder Upgrade for Dust Minimization +Minimise micro-plastic and dust with this simple shredder upgrade! This simple hack also helps when it comes time to clean your shredder for colour or material changes. -Reduce micro-plastic and dust from your shredder with this effective upgrade. It also simplifies cleaning when changing colors or materials. +You'll need the following components for this project: +• Vacuum +• 20L Bucket +• Cyclone Dust Collector +• Funnel -### Required Components: -- Vacuum -- 5.3-gallon (20L) Bucket -- Cyclone Dust Collector -- Funnel User Location: Melbourne, Australia ## Steps ### Step 1: The Vacuum -## Vacuum Selection Guide +The vacuum, is of course the most crucial component of this hack. You can use something you already have, or purchase a vacuum fit for purpose. -The vacuum is the most critical component of this setup. You may use an existing vacuum or acquire one suitable for your needs. +We went with a backpack vacuum - our small workshop is a shared space, so we need something that is fairly compact and quiet, yet powerful. As our vacuum needs to run for long periods of time, we also felt it was best to opt for one that's built for commercial use. + +Direct link to our vacuum of choice: sydneytools.com.au: sydneytools.com.au/product/bayer-bp45l-1200w-hi-powered-4-5l-tank-dry-backpack-vacuum -We opted for a backpack vacuum. In our shared, small workshop, we required a compact, quiet, yet powerful device. As our vacuum operates for extended periods, we decided on a model designed for commercial use. -Our selected vacuum: [Bayer BP45L 1200W Hi-Powered 4.5L Tank Dry Backpack Vacuum](https://sydneytools.com.au/product/bayer-bp45l-1200w-hi-powered-4-5l-tank-dry-backpack-vacuum). ![vacuum.jpg](./vacuum.jpg) ### Step 2: The Bucket -This type of bucket is common and generally easy to find secondhand. Choose one in good condition with a removable lid. A round bucket is preferable to a square container for this purpose. +This type of bucket is fairly common, and generally pretty easy to source secondhand. Look for something in good condition, with a removable lid. + +Additionally, a round bucket tends to work better than a square container for this purpose. + + ![bucket.jpg](./bucket.jpg) ### Step 3: Dust Cyclone -### Dust Cyclone Overview +Dust cyclones remove over 99% of dust and debris from the airstream, containing it before it ever reaches the vacuum. We've been running our Dust Extractor for quiet a while, and are yet to spot even a speck of plastic in our vacuum. -Dust cyclones effectively remove over 99% of dust and debris from the airflow, preventing accumulation in the vacuum. Our Dust Extractor has consistently operated without any plastic particles reaching the vacuum. +The cyclone will include a cutting template and instructions, along with nuts/bolts and connection pieces. We picked one up from eBay for around $40AUD: bit.ly: bit.ly/3iKR4e6 -The cyclone kit includes a cutting template, instructions, nuts, bolts, and connection pieces. It is available for approximately $40 AUD ($26 USD) [here](https://bit.ly/3iKR4e6). - -For a cost-effective or DIY approach, consider this [tutorial](https://bit.ly/33FxUSP). +If you're keen to save some cash or prefer a DIY option, check out this tutorial: bit.ly: bit.ly/33FxUSP ![cyclone.jpg](./cyclone.jpg) @@ -72,7 +72,12 @@ For a cost-effective or DIY approach, consider this [tutorial](https://bit.ly/33 ### Step 4: The Funnel -To capture the shredded plastic from the sieve to the vacuum hose, an airtight funnel is essential. You may use a purpose-built funnel, a 3D-printed design, or a D Square grate with a plumbing pipe. A suitable option is available at: www.timbecon.com.au/dust-extractor-hood-large-big-gulp +You'll need an airtight funnel to capture the shredded plastic as it falls from the sieve into the vacuum hose. +You can use something purpose built, 3D printed, or a D Square grate and plumbing pipe. + +Something like this certainly does the job: www.timbecon.com.au/dust-extractor-hood-large-big-gulp + + ![funnel.jpg](./funnel.jpg) @@ -82,51 +87,22 @@ To capture the shredded plastic from the sieve to the vacuum hose, an airtight f ### Step 5: Connect all the bits! -### Cyclone Assembly +Cyclone: +• Place the template (included with cyclone) in the middle of the lid +• Mark and drill the bolt holes +• Mark and cut centre hole +• Connect the cyclone using the nuts and bolts provided (see images in Step 3) -1. Position the template (provided with the cyclone) centrally on the lid. -2. Mark and drill the bolt holes. -3. Mark and cut the center hole. -4. Attach the cyclone using the provided nuts and bolts (refer to images in Step 3). +Funnel: +• Connect the funnel directly below the shredder sieve. We used a connected a D Square grate, some left over plumbing pipe and cut a whole in the cap (see image in Step 4) -### Funnel Installation +Vacuum connection: +• Cut the vacuum pipe in half +• Using one half of the cut vacuum pipe, connect the top outlet of the cyclone to the vacuum +• Connect the side inlet of the cyclone to the funnel beneath your shredder -1. Attach the funnel directly below the shredder sieve. A D Square grate, a leftover plumbing pipe, and a hole cut in the cap were used (refer to image in Step 4). +Happy shredding! -### Vacuum Connection - -1. Cut the vacuum pipe in half. -2. Use one half to connect the top outlet of the cyclone to the vacuum. -3. Connect the side inlet of the cyclone to the funnel beneath the shredder. ## Resources -### Tools & Equipment - -- Bayer BP45L 1200W Backpack Vacuum ([sydneytools.com.au](https://sydneytools.com.au/product/bayer-bp45l-1200w-hi-powered-4-5l-tank-dry-backpack-vacuum)) -- 5.3-gallon (20L) round bucket (secondhand recommended) -- Cyclone Dust Collector kit (~~~~[link](https://bit.ly/3iKR4e6)~~~~) -- Airtight funnel (~~[timbecon.com.au](https://www.timbecon.com.au/dust-extractor-hood-large-big-gulp)~~) - -### Recommended Suppliers - -- Cyclone DIY tutorial ([link](https://bit.ly/33FxUSP)) -- Dust cyclone pre-built kit ([link](https://bit.ly/3iKR4e6)) -- Backpack vacuum (commercial-grade models from Sydney Tools) -- Large dust hood (D Square grate option from Timbecon) - -### Hardware Components - -- Removable-lid bucket (round shape preferred) -- Plumbing pipe (for custom funnel setups) -- Nuts/bolts (included with cyclone kit) -- Cutting template (included with cyclone kit) -## References -## Opensource Designs - -- [Cyclone Dust Collector Tutorial](https://bit.ly/33FxUSP) - -## Products - -- [Bayer BP45L Backpack Vacuum](https://sydneytools.com.au/product/bayer-bp45l-1200w-hi-powered-4-5l-tank-dry-backpack-vacuum) -- ~~[Cyclone Dust Collector Kit](https://bit.ly/3iKR4e6)~~ -- ~~[Large Big Gulph Dust Extractor Hood](https://www.timbecon.com.au/dust-extractor-hood-large-big-gulp)~~ \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/reduce-micro-plastic--dust-when-shredding/config.json b/howtos/reduce-micro-plastic--dust-when-shredding/config.json index a9291cf9b..a0b2f732f 100644 --- a/howtos/reduce-micro-plastic--dust-when-shredding/config.json +++ b/howtos/reduce-micro-plastic--dust-when-shredding/config.json @@ -50,7 +50,7 @@ "_deleted": false, "steps": [ { - "text": "## Vacuum Selection Guide\n\nThe vacuum is the most critical component of this setup. You may use an existing vacuum or acquire one suitable for your needs.\n\nWe opted for a backpack vacuum. In our shared, small workshop, we required a compact, quiet, yet powerful device. As our vacuum operates for extended periods, we decided on a model designed for commercial use.\n\nOur selected vacuum: [Bayer BP45L 1200W Hi-Powered 4.5L Tank Dry Backpack Vacuum](https://sydneytools.com.au/product/bayer-bp45l-1200w-hi-powered-4-5l-tank-dry-backpack-vacuum).", + "text": "The vacuum, is of course the most crucial component of this hack. You can use something you already have, or purchase a vacuum fit for purpose.\n\nWe went with a backpack vacuum - our small workshop is a shared space, so we need something that is fairly compact and quiet, yet powerful. As our vacuum needs to run for long periods of time, we also felt it was best to opt for one that's built for commercial use.\n\nDirect link to our vacuum of choice: sydneytools.com.au: sydneytools.com.au/product/bayer-bp45l-1200w-hi-powered-4-5l-tank-dry-backpack-vacuum\n\n", "title": "The Vacuum", "images": [ { @@ -69,7 +69,7 @@ "_animationKey": "unique1" }, { - "text": "This type of bucket is common and generally easy to find secondhand. Choose one in good condition with a removable lid. A round bucket is preferable to a square container for this purpose.", + "text": "This type of bucket is fairly common, and generally pretty easy to source secondhand. Look for something in good condition, with a removable lid.\n\nAdditionally, a round bucket tends to work better than a square container for this purpose.\n\n", "_animationKey": "unique2", "title": "The Bucket", "images": [ @@ -128,11 +128,11 @@ ], "_animationKey": "unique3", "title": "Dust Cyclone", - "text": "### Dust Cyclone Overview\n\nDust cyclones effectively remove over 99% of dust and debris from the airflow, preventing accumulation in the vacuum. Our Dust Extractor has consistently operated without any plastic particles reaching the vacuum.\n\nThe cyclone kit includes a cutting template, instructions, nuts, bolts, and connection pieces. It is available for approximately $40 AUD ($26 USD) [here](https://bit.ly/3iKR4e6).\n\nFor a cost-effective or DIY approach, consider this [tutorial](https://bit.ly/33FxUSP)." + "text": "Dust cyclones remove over 99% of dust and debris from the airstream, containing it before it ever reaches the vacuum. We've been running our Dust Extractor for quiet a while, and are yet to spot even a speck of plastic in our vacuum.\n\nThe cyclone will include a cutting template and instructions, along with nuts/bolts and connection pieces. We picked one up from eBay for around $40AUD: bit.ly: bit.ly/3iKR4e6\n\nIf you're keen to save some cash or prefer a DIY option, check out this tutorial: bit.ly: bit.ly/33FxUSP" }, { "_animationKey": "uniquesgfiego", - "text": "To capture the shredded plastic from the sieve to the vacuum hose, an airtight funnel is essential. You may use a purpose-built funnel, a 3D-printed design, or a D Square grate with a plumbing pipe. A suitable option is available at: www.timbecon.com.au/dust-extractor-hood-large-big-gulp", + "text": "You'll need an airtight funnel to capture the shredded plastic as it falls from the sieve into the vacuum hose.\nYou can use something purpose built, 3D printed, or a D Square grate and plumbing pipe.\n\nSomething like this certainly does the job: www.timbecon.com.au/dust-extractor-hood-large-big-gulp\n\n", "title": "The Funnel", "images": [ { @@ -162,14 +162,14 @@ ] }, { - "text": "### Cyclone Assembly\n\n1. Position the template (provided with the cyclone) centrally on the lid.\n2. Mark and drill the bolt holes.\n3. Mark and cut the center hole.\n4. Attach the cyclone using the provided nuts and bolts (refer to images in Step 3).\n\n### Funnel Installation\n\n1. Attach the funnel directly below the shredder sieve. A D Square grate, a leftover plumbing pipe, and a hole cut in the cap were used (refer to image in Step 4).\n\n### Vacuum Connection\n\n1. Cut the vacuum pipe in half.\n2. Use one half to connect the top outlet of the cyclone to the vacuum.\n3. Connect the side inlet of the cyclone to the funnel beneath the shredder.", + "text": "Cyclone:\n• Place the template (included with cyclone) in the middle of the lid\n• Mark and drill the bolt holes\n• Mark and cut centre hole\n• Connect the cyclone using the nuts and bolts provided (see images in Step 3)\n\nFunnel:\n• Connect the funnel directly below the shredder sieve. We used a connected a D Square grate, some left over plumbing pipe and cut a whole in the cap (see image in Step 4)\n\nVacuum connection:\n• Cut the vacuum pipe in half\n• Using one half of the cut vacuum pipe, connect the top outlet of the cyclone to the vacuum \n• Connect the side inlet of the cyclone to the funnel beneath your shredder\n\nHappy shredding!\n", "videoUrl": "https://youtu.be/VjSi7Jrvcpk", "images": [], "title": "Connect all the bits!", "_animationKey": "unique6aozf" } ], - "description": "# Shredder Upgrade for Dust Minimization\n\nReduce micro-plastic and dust from your shredder with this effective upgrade. It also simplifies cleaning when changing colors or materials.\n\n### Required Components:\n- Vacuum\n- 5.3-gallon (20L) Bucket\n- Cyclone Dust Collector\n- Funnel", + "description": "Minimise micro-plastic and dust with this simple shredder upgrade! This simple hack also helps when it comes time to clean your shredder for colour or material changes. \n\nYou'll need the following components for this project:\n• Vacuum\n• 20L Bucket\n• Cyclone Dust Collector\n• Funnel\n", "user": { "type": "workspace", "subType": "mix", @@ -344,9 +344,5 @@ "urls": [] } }, - "content": "# Shredder Upgrade for Dust Minimization\n\nReduce micro-plastic and dust from your shredder with this effective upgrade. It also simplifies cleaning when changing colors or materials.\n\n### Required Components:\n- Vacuum\n- 5.3-gallon (20L) Bucket\n- Cyclone Dust Collector\n- Funnel\n\n\nUser Location: Melbourne, Australia\n\n## Vacuum Selection Guide\n\nThe vacuum is the most critical component of this setup. You may use an existing vacuum or acquire one suitable for your needs.\n\nWe opted for a backpack vacuum. In our shared, small workshop, we required a compact, quiet, yet powerful device. As our vacuum operates for extended periods, we decided on a model designed for commercial use.\n\nOur selected vacuum: [Bayer BP45L 1200W Hi-Powered 4.5L Tank Dry Backpack Vacuum](https://sydneytools.com.au/product/bayer-bp45l-1200w-hi-powered-4-5l-tank-dry-backpack-vacuum).\n\nThis type of bucket is common and generally easy to find secondhand. Choose one in good condition with a removable lid. A round bucket is preferable to a square container for this purpose.\n\n### Dust Cyclone Overview\n\nDust cyclones effectively remove over 99% of dust and debris from the airflow, preventing accumulation in the vacuum. Our Dust Extractor has consistently operated without any plastic particles reaching the vacuum.\n\nThe cyclone kit includes a cutting template, instructions, nuts, bolts, and connection pieces. It is available for approximately $40 AUD ($26 USD) ~~[here](https://bit.ly/3iKR4e6)~~.\n\nFor a cost-effective or DIY approach, consider this [tutorial](https://bit.ly/33FxUSP).\n\nTo capture the shredded plastic from the sieve to the vacuum hose, an airtight funnel is essential. You may use a purpose-built funnel, a 3D-printed design, or a D Square grate with a plumbing pipe. A suitable option is available at: www.timbecon.com.au/dust-extractor-hood-large-big-gulp\n\n### Cyclone Assembly\n\n1. Position the template (provided with the cyclone) centrally on the lid.\n2. Mark and drill the bolt holes.\n3. Mark and cut the center hole.\n4. Attach the cyclone using the provided nuts and bolts (refer to images in Step 3).\n\n### Funnel Installation\n\n1. Attach the funnel directly below the shredder sieve. A D Square grate, a leftover plumbing pipe, and a hole cut in the cap were used (refer to image in Step 4).\n\n### Vacuum Connection\n\n1. Cut the vacuum pipe in half.\n2. Use one half to connect the top outlet of the cyclone to the vacuum.\n3. Connect the side inlet of the cyclone to the funnel beneath the shredder.", - "keywords": "shredder upgrade, dust minimization, cyclone dust collector, vacuum selection guide, Melbourne workshop, backpack vacuum, dust cyclone, dust extractor, funnel installation, DIY cyclone assembly.", - "resources": "### Tools & Equipment\n\n- Bayer BP45L 1200W Backpack Vacuum ([sydneytools.com.au](https://sydneytools.com.au/product/bayer-bp45l-1200w-hi-powered-4-5l-tank-dry-backpack-vacuum))\n- 5.3-gallon (20L) round bucket (secondhand recommended)\n- Cyclone Dust Collector kit (~~~~[link](https://bit.ly/3iKR4e6)~~~~)\n- Airtight funnel (~~[timbecon.com.au](https://www.timbecon.com.au/dust-extractor-hood-large-big-gulp)~~)\n\n### Recommended Suppliers\n\n- Cyclone DIY tutorial ([link](https://bit.ly/33FxUSP))\n- Dust cyclone pre-built kit ([link](https://bit.ly/3iKR4e6))\n- Backpack vacuum (commercial-grade models from Sydney Tools)\n- Large dust hood (D Square grate option from Timbecon)\n\n### Hardware Components\n\n- Removable-lid bucket (round shape preferred)\n- Plumbing pipe (for custom funnel setups)\n- Nuts/bolts (included with cyclone kit)\n- Cutting template (included with cyclone kit)", - "references": "## Opensource Designs\n\n- [Cyclone Dust Collector Tutorial](https://bit.ly/33FxUSP)\n\n## Products\n\n- [Bayer BP45L Backpack Vacuum](https://sydneytools.com.au/product/bayer-bp45l-1200w-hi-powered-4-5l-tank-dry-backpack-vacuum)\n- ~~[Cyclone Dust Collector Kit](https://bit.ly/3iKR4e6)~~\n- ~~[Large Big Gulph Dust Extractor Hood](https://www.timbecon.com.au/dust-extractor-hood-large-big-gulp)~~", - "brief": "Minimize micro-plastic and dust from your shredder with an upgrade using a vacuum, bucket, cyclone dust collector, and funnel for cleaner, efficient operation." + "content": "Minimise micro-plastic and dust with this simple shredder upgrade! This simple hack also helps when it comes time to clean your shredder for colour or material changes. \n\nYou'll need the following components for this project:\n• Vacuum\n• 20L Bucket\n• Cyclone Dust Collector\n• Funnel\n\n\n\nUser Location: Melbourne, Australia\n\nThe vacuum, is of course the most crucial component of this hack. You can use something you already have, or purchase a vacuum fit for purpose.\n\nWe went with a backpack vacuum - our small workshop is a shared space, so we need something that is fairly compact and quiet, yet powerful. As our vacuum needs to run for long periods of time, we also felt it was best to opt for one that's built for commercial use.\n\nDirect link to our vacuum of choice: sydneytools.com.au: sydneytools.com.au/product/bayer-bp45l-1200w-hi-powered-4-5l-tank-dry-backpack-vacuum\n\n\n\nThis type of bucket is fairly common, and generally pretty easy to source secondhand. Look for something in good condition, with a removable lid.\n\nAdditionally, a round bucket tends to work better than a square container for this purpose.\n\n\n\nDust cyclones remove over 99% of dust and debris from the airstream, containing it before it ever reaches the vacuum. We've been running our Dust Extractor for quiet a while, and are yet to spot even a speck of plastic in our vacuum.\n\nThe cyclone will include a cutting template and instructions, along with nuts/bolts and connection pieces. We picked one up from eBay for around $40AUD: bit.ly: bit.ly/3iKR4e6\n\nIf you're keen to save some cash or prefer a DIY option, check out this tutorial: bit.ly: bit.ly/33FxUSP\n\nYou'll need an airtight funnel to capture the shredded plastic as it falls from the sieve into the vacuum hose.\nYou can use something purpose built, 3D printed, or a D Square grate and plumbing pipe.\n\nSomething like this certainly does the job: www.timbecon.com.au/dust-extractor-hood-large-big-gulp\n\n\n\nCyclone:\n• Place the template (included with cyclone) in the middle of the lid\n• Mark and drill the bolt holes\n• Mark and cut centre hole\n• Connect the cyclone using the nuts and bolts provided (see images in Step 3)\n\nFunnel:\n• Connect the funnel directly below the shredder sieve. We used a connected a D Square grate, some left over plumbing pipe and cut a whole in the cap (see image in Step 4)\n\nVacuum connection:\n• Cut the vacuum pipe in half\n• Using one half of the cut vacuum pipe, connect the top outlet of the cyclone to the vacuum \n• Connect the side inlet of the cyclone to the funnel beneath your shredder\n\nHappy shredding!\n" } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/run-a-workshop-on-an-event/README.md b/howtos/run-a-workshop-on-an-event/README.md index 5a18200e7..c739c2dea 100644 --- a/howtos/run-a-workshop-on-an-event/README.md +++ b/howtos/run-a-workshop-on-an-event/README.md @@ -1,23 +1,25 @@ --- title: Run a workshop on an event slug: run-a-workshop-on-an-event -description: To effectively address plastic issues, it is important to demonstrate the process in person. Below is a brief overview of factors we at Kunststoffschmiede consider before initiating a public workshop. +description: A crucial part of working towards reducing plastic pollution is to show people the process offline! The following introduction gives you a quick overview about all the stuff we at Kunststoffschmiede pay attention before starting a workshop in public. tags: ["melting","collection"] category: Guides difficulty: Medium time: 1-2 weeks -keywords: plastic workshop, mobile workshop, Kunststoffschmiede Dresden, injection machine, plastic recycling, workshop safety, mold operation, plastic utilization, eco-friendly practices, workshop preparation +keywords: location: Dresden, Germany --- # Run a workshop on an event ![Run a workshop on an event](190614-16_Altonale_VisionAir42.JPG) -To effectively address plastic issues, it is important to demonstrate the process in person. Below is a brief overview of factors we at Kunststoffschmiede consider before initiating a public workshop. +A crucial part of working towards reducing plastic pollution is to show people the process offline! The following introduction gives you a quick overview about all the stuff we at Kunststoffschmiede pay attention before starting a workshop in public. User Location: Dresden, Germany ## Steps ### Step 1: Prepare your machines -Before conducting workshops, decide on the type of machine to use. Consider the workshop's nature, attendee number, and available time. Ensure all machines in public settings are safe and free from gross negligence. For optimal performance, maintain cleanliness, ensure proper functioning, and have spare parts available. +Ok, so before you start giving workshops, think about what kind of machine you would like to use in this context. What kind of workshop is it? How many people are coming and how much time do they have? +All the machines you use in public have to be safe against gross negligence. For a better performance, make sure that everything is clean, working properly and maybe you have some spare parts with you. + ![Prepare your machines 1 - Elleke_Precious Plastic.jpg](./Prepare_your_machines_1_-_Elleke_Precious_Plastic.jpg) @@ -30,33 +32,36 @@ Before conducting workshops, decide on the type of machine to use. Consider the ### Step 2: Prepare your moulds -Ensure your molds are reliable. For optimal use: +Like the machines you use in public your moulds have to be reliable as well. We recommend moulds with a small cycle time, so as many people as possible can produce a product... + +That means: +- Quick release-System to open and close your mould fast +- Small injection volume +- The product is easy to demould -- Implement a quick-release system for fast opening and closing. -- Opt for a small injection volume. -- Design the product for easy demolding. ![Prepare your moulds 1 - Neja Hrovat_Konglomerat eV.jpg](./Prepare_your_moulds_1_-_Neja_Hrovat_Konglomerat_eV.jpg) ### Step 3: Prepare your equipment -## Mobile Workshop Essentials +You are leaving your workshop, so you need everything to run a plastic recycling workshop mobile. +As everyone has their own way of doing it, you get a list from Kunststoffschmiede (Germany) for your inspiration: -When departing from your workshop, consider this list from Kunststoffschmiede (Germany) for a mobile setup: - -- Injection machine and bicycle shredder -- Maintenance tools -- Product counter -- Electric box (including power cable, distributor, and lights) -- Molds -- Shredded and unshredded plastic -- Sample products to demonstrate potential -- Informative flyers and posters -- First aid kit +- Injection machine and the bicycle shredder +- Tools for maintenance +- Productcounter +- Electric box (including: Power cable, distributer and some lights) +- Moulds +- Shredded plastic +- Clean and unshredded plastic +- Samples from us and the community to show the possibilities +- Informations like flyers and posters +- First Aid Kit - Camera -- Straps, tape, and ropes -- Tub and cleaning supplies for washing plastic +- strap, tape and ropes +- Tub and cleaning stuff to wash the plastic + ![Equipment 1 - Konglomerat eV.jpg](./Equipment_1_-_Konglomerat_eV.jpg) @@ -66,7 +71,7 @@ When departing from your workshop, consider this list from Kunststoffschmiede (G ### Step 4: Prepare your materials -For your workshop, ensure you have both shredded and clean plastic ready for shredding. Maintaining reserves is advisable to prevent disruptions in case your shredder malfunctions. +For your workshop you need shredded plastic and some clean plastic which is ready to be shredded. Reserves are always good, maybe the shredder stops working and you are running out of fresh granules… Be prepared! ![Prepare your materials 1 - Neja Hrovat_Konglomerat eV.jpg](./Prepare_your_materials_1_-_Neja_Hrovat_Konglomerat_eV.jpg) @@ -76,108 +81,119 @@ For your workshop, ensure you have both shredded and clean plastic ready for shr ### Step 5: Prepare samples -Having a range of material and product samples is beneficial for demonstrating the possibilities of plastic utilization. You may use your own products or obtain additional samples from various sources to showcase global workspace practices. Display the products in an attractive manner. +It’s always good to have a variety of material and product samples to inspire people and help them understand the possibilities of plastic recycling. +You can use your own products, or get some more from the [filtered] Bazar to show what other workspaces around the world are doing. Present the products in a beautiful setting. +👉 bazar.preciousplastic.com + ![Samples - Löhrer_Konglomerat eV.jpg](./Samples_-_Lohrer_Konglomerat_eV.jpg) ### Step 6: Prepare your message -You must also prepare by asking yourself the following questions: +You also have to prepare yourself and ask yourself these questions: + +- Why are you giving this workshop? +- What kind of knowledge and experience do you want to teach people? +- What are your good at? -- What is the purpose of this workshop? -- What knowledge and skills do you intend to impart? -- What are your areas of expertise? ![Prepare yourself - Konglomerat eV.JPG](./Prepare_yourself_-_Konglomerat_eV.JPG) ### Step 7: Prepare your team -Working as a team is more enjoyable and efficient. +Don’t be alone, it’s much more fun and relaxed to work in a team!+ -We recommend having 3-4 supervisors when operating two machines, as there will always be inquiries to address. +Here at Kunststoffschmiede we recommend 3-4 supervisors when you’re working with two machines. There are always people who have a lot of questions. + +What does your team need: +- perfect operation of the machines and moulds +- communicative +- Your mindset is on one level. So your workshops have a consistent quality. +- They know the answers to the most asked questions. 👉 Next step! -Team Requirements: -- Proficient in machine and mold operation -- Communicative skills -- Unified mindset for consistent workshop quality -- Knowledgeable about frequently asked questions ![Prepare your Team - Konglomerat eV.JPG](./Prepare_your_Team_-_Konglomerat_eV.JPG) ### Step 8: Typical questions asked at a workshop in public: -During the process, many individuals have questions. We suggest you have answers to the following: +During the process most of the people have a lot of questions. We recommend that you always have an answer to the following question: + +- What’s your story/backround? +- What’s your goal? +- What’s [filtered]? +- Can you be booked +- What type of plastic are you able to recycle? +- Are the fumes toxic? +- What is plastic? (ingredients) +- How can I change my lifestyle into an ecofriendly lifestyle? -- What is your background? -- What is your goal? -- What is your project? -- Can you be booked? -- What type of plastic can you process? -- Are the fumes hazardous? -- What are the components of plastic? -- How can I adopt a more environmentally conscious lifestyle? ![FAQ - Löhrer_Konglomerat eV.jpg](./FAQ_-_Lohrer_Konglomerat_eV.jpg) ### Step 9: Wanna get money? -Consider that your skills are unique. If you are invited to conduct a workshop, decide whether to request payment. The amount depends on your situation. +Be aware that you are doing something special that only a few can offer. And if you're asked to do a workshop, then think about whether you want to be paid for it. How much money you take is up to you. It depends on what circumstances you have to deal with. -Here are some potential costs: +Here are some cost items listed: - Transport -- Use of machinery, molds, and tools -- Team fees -- Venue costs +- Use of the machine, moulds and other tools +- Fee for your team +- Placing cost - Coordination -- Organizational overhead +- Overhead for your organisation + ![Wanna get money - Precious Plastic Official.jpg](./Wanna_get_money_-_Precious_Plastic_Official.jpg) ### Step 10: Promote your workshop -Inform potential participants about your workshop to maximize attendance and learning opportunities. +Depending on how open the event is, make sure you don’t forget to let people know about your workshop, so that as many people as possible get the chance to see and learn. + +There are several places where you can announce it, here some ideas: +- post a story/post on social media with #preciousplastic +- post it in your country’s channel on the [filtered] Discord +- create an event on the community platform +👉 community.preciousplastic.com/events -Consider announcing your event in these places: -- Post a story or message on social media. -- Create an event on a suitable community platform. ![Promote your Workshop.PNG](./Promote_your_Workshop.PNG) ### Step 11: Site-specific questions -### Workshop Preparation Checklist +As mentioned before you are leaving your lovely workshop. So sad :( +To be sure that everything runs great with your mobile workshop, you should clarify the following questions with the organizer: -Before departing your workshop, confirm the following with the event organizer: +- Power source: Is it strong enough, and how far is the plug? +- You need fresh water? Ask for the next water tap. +- Weather conditions: Is it protected from rain, ventilated with fresh air? +- How much space is available? +- What kind of people are expected? +- When are construction and dismantling times? +- Who is liable if something goes wrong? -- **Power Source**: Verify strength and distance to the plug. -- **Water Access**: Identify the nearest water tap. -- **Weather Conditions**: Ensure protection from rain and proper ventilation. -- **Space**: Determine available area. -- **Audience**: Clarify the expected participants. -- **Schedule**: Confirm construction and dismantling times. -- **Liability**: Establish responsibility for any issues. ![Site specific questions quer.jpg](./Site_specific_questions_quer.jpg) ### Step 12: Construction on site -Label all stations and ensure adequate space around machines for visibility. Align your setup with the process flow for consistency. +Label all the stations and create enough space around the machines so many people can see what’s happening. Compare your setup with the course of the recycling process and check if it’s similar. + +Build up your mobile workshop with enough time and take a break before everything starts. -Set up your mobile workshop in advance and rest before starting. ![Construction on side 1 - Hrovat_Konglomerat eV.jpg](./Construction_on_side_1_-_Hrovat_Konglomerat_eV.jpg) ### Step 13: Timing -Test everything in advance with friends to ensure smooth operation. This practice helps identify areas for improvement and determines how many people you can manage simultaneously. +Test everything beforehand with friends, so that you’re sure it runs smoothly. Then you have a better feeling and you know on what points you have to work on. If you do not practice, you won’t know how many people you can look after at the same time etc. ![Timing 1 - Löhrer_Konglomerat eV.jpg](./Timing_1_-_Lohrer_Konglomerat_eV.jpg) @@ -190,7 +206,7 @@ Test everything in advance with friends to ensure smooth operation. This practic ### Step 14: Participation -Consider how to involve others in the process safely. Determine tasks that can be completed without risking personal or equipment safety. +Think carefully about how to get strangers involved in the process. What can they do without endangering themselves or the machines? ![Participation 2 - David Plas_BMBF.jpg](./Participation_2_-_David_Plas_BMBF.jpg) @@ -203,92 +219,16 @@ Consider how to involve others in the process safely. Determine tasks that can b ### Step 15: Post processing -The final step involves documentation. +The last step is all about documentation... -How many people did you reach, and how many products did you produce? Did you make significant contacts, or was there press coverage? +How many people have you reached and how many products did you produce? Could you make interesting contacts or was the press there and wrote a report about you? + +It’s good to track your impact and learn from your experiences. +And of course collect all your pictures! :) -It's beneficial to track your impact and learn from your experiences. Remember to collect all your pictures. ![Post processing quer.png](./Post_processing_quer.png) ## Resources -### Hardware - -- Injection machine -- Bicycle shredder -- Electric box (power cable, distributor, lights) -- Molds with quick-release system -- Product counter - -### Tools - -- Maintenance tools -- Straps, tape, ropes -- Tub and cleaning supplies -- Camera for documentation -- Shredder spare parts - -### Materials & Supplies - -- Shredded plastic reserves -- Unshredded plastic for processing -- Sample products (self-made or sourced) -- Informative flyers/posters -- First aid kit - -### Workshop Setup - -- Power source verification tools -- Weather protection gear (rain covers, ventilation) -- Labeled workstation signage -- Demo display stands for products -- Event scheduling materials - -### Safety & Logistics - -- Liability agreements -- Team communication plans (3-4 supervisors) -- Transport logistics plan -- Participant engagement strategy (Q&A prep) -- Post-event impact tracking system -## References -### Articles - -- https://www.instructables.com/How-to-Run-PLA-Recycling-Workshop/ -- https://www.instructables.com/RMS-Injection-Molding-Demonstration-Via-TechShop/ -- https://www.designboom.com/technology/precious-plastic-dave-hakkens-recycling-workshop-06-02-2014/ -- https://www.electronicspecifier.com/news/analysis/start-your-own-little-plastic-recycling-workshop -- https://www.[filtered].earth/news/educational-workshops - -### Books & Guides - -- https://parlormultimedia.com/writingspaces/wp-content/uploads/2024/07/technical.pdf -- https://opensource.com/sites/default/files/gated-content/open_org_educators_guide_1_0_1.pdf - -### Open Source Designs - -- https://www.opensourceecology.org/3d-printer-construction-set-workshop-3/ -- https://formlabs.com/blog/diy-injection-molding/ -- https://www.designboom.com/technology/precious-plastic-dave-hakkens-recycling-workshop-06-02-2014/ -- https://www.[filtered].earth/project/precious-plastic - -### Academic Resources - -- https://www.stem.org.uk/resources/elibrary/resource/31059/plastics-workshop-practices-and-industrial-processes -- https://summit.stc.org/wp-content/uploads/2021/02/2020STCSummit_Proceedings_Updated.pdf - -### Organizations & Platforms - -- https://kunststoffschmiede.konglomerat.org/en -- https://www.[filtered].earth/project/precious-plastic - -### Industrial Processes - -- https://firstmold.com/tips/injection-mold-repair/ -- https://www.essentracomponents.com/en-us/news/manufacturing/injection-molding/what-is-plastic-injection-molding-and-how-does-it-work - -### Training Programs - -- https://www.ferris.edu/administration/academicaffairs/extendedinternational/cpd/plastics-institute.htm -- https://paulsontraining.com/injection-molding-training/ \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/run-a-workshop-on-an-event/config.json b/howtos/run-a-workshop-on-an-event/config.json index 6cc72a491..c6ec6bea5 100644 --- a/howtos/run-a-workshop-on-an-event/config.json +++ b/howtos/run-a-workshop-on-an-event/config.json @@ -4,7 +4,7 @@ "collection" ], "slug": "run-a-workshop-on-an-event", - "description": "To effectively address plastic issues, it is important to demonstrate the process in person. Below is a brief overview of factors we at Kunststoffschmiede consider before initiating a public workshop.", + "description": "A crucial part of working towards reducing plastic pollution is to show people the process offline! The following introduction gives you a quick overview about all the stuff we at Kunststoffschmiede pay attention before starting a workshop in public. ", "category": { "_created": "2022-09-18T08:51:47.196Z", "label": "Guides", @@ -51,7 +51,7 @@ "caption": "", "_animationKey": "unique1", "title": "Prepare your machines", - "text": "Before conducting workshops, decide on the type of machine to use. Consider the workshop's nature, attendee number, and available time. Ensure all machines in public settings are safe and free from gross negligence. For optimal performance, maintain cleanliness, ensure proper functioning, and have spare parts available.", + "text": "Ok, so before you start giving workshops, think about what kind of machine you would like to use in this context. What kind of workshop is it? How many people are coming and how much time do they have?\nAll the machines you use in public have to be safe against gross negligence. For a better performance, make sure that everything is clean, working properly and maybe you have some spare parts with you.\n", "images": [ { "timeCreated": "2020-01-18T16:47:56.124Z", @@ -92,7 +92,7 @@ ] }, { - "text": "Ensure your molds are reliable. For optimal use:\n\n- Implement a quick-release system for fast opening and closing.\n- Opt for a small injection volume.\n- Design the product for easy demolding.", + "text": "Like the machines you use in public your moulds have to be reliable as well. We recommend moulds with a small cycle time, so as many people as possible can produce a product...\n\nThat means:\n- Quick release-System to open and close your mould fast\n- Small injection volume\n- The product is easy to demould\n", "caption": "", "images": [ { @@ -141,7 +141,7 @@ ], "caption": "", "title": "Prepare your equipment", - "text": "## Mobile Workshop Essentials\n\nWhen departing from your workshop, consider this list from Kunststoffschmiede (Germany) for a mobile setup:\n\n- Injection machine and bicycle shredder\n- Maintenance tools\n- Product counter\n- Electric box (including power cable, distributor, and lights)\n- Molds\n- Shredded and unshredded plastic\n- Sample products to demonstrate potential\n- Informative flyers and posters\n- First aid kit\n- Camera\n- Straps, tape, and ropes\n- Tub and cleaning supplies for washing plastic" + "text": "You are leaving your workshop, so you need everything to run a plastic recycling workshop mobile. \nAs everyone has their own way of doing it, you get a list from Kunststoffschmiede (Germany) for your inspiration:\n\n- Injection machine and the bicycle shredder\n- Tools for maintenance \n- Productcounter\n- Electric box (including: Power cable, distributer and some lights)\n- Moulds\n- Shredded plastic\n- Clean and unshredded plastic\n- Samples from us and the community to show the possibilities\n- Informations like flyers and posters\n- First Aid Kit\n- Camera\n- strap, tape and ropes\n- Tub and cleaning stuff to wash the plastic\n" }, { "_animationKey": "uniqueaqeh0k", @@ -172,12 +172,12 @@ "alt": "Prepare your materials 2 - Neja Hrovat_Konglomerat eV.jpg" } ], - "text": "For your workshop, ensure you have both shredded and clean plastic ready for shredding. Maintaining reserves is advisable to prevent disruptions in case your shredder malfunctions." + "text": "For your workshop you need shredded plastic and some clean plastic which is ready to be shredded. Reserves are always good, maybe the shredder stops working and you are running out of fresh granules… Be prepared!" }, { "title": "Prepare samples", "_animationKey": "uniquefozz3o", - "text": "Having a range of material and product samples is beneficial for demonstrating the possibilities of plastic utilization. You may use your own products or obtain additional samples from various sources to showcase global workspace practices. Display the products in an attractive manner.", + "text": "It’s always good to have a variety of material and product samples to inspire people and help them understand the possibilities of plastic recycling. \nYou can use your own products, or get some more from the [filtered] Bazar to show what other workspaces around the world are doing. Present the products in a beautiful setting.\n👉 bazar.preciousplastic.com\n", "images": [ { "fullPath": "uploads/v3_howtos/CEtoXtp8ZNRehOIT6TmU/Samples - Löhrer_Konglomerat eV.jpg", @@ -210,10 +210,10 @@ } ], "title": "Prepare your message", - "text": "You must also prepare by asking yourself the following questions:\n\n- What is the purpose of this workshop?\n- What knowledge and skills do you intend to impart?\n- What are your areas of expertise?" + "text": "You also have to prepare yourself and ask yourself these questions:\n\n- Why are you giving this workshop?\n- What kind of knowledge and experience do you want to teach people?\n- What are your good at?\n" }, { - "text": "Working as a team is more enjoyable and efficient.\n\nWe recommend having 3-4 supervisors when operating two machines, as there will always be inquiries to address.\n\nTeam Requirements:\n- Proficient in machine and mold operation\n- Communicative skills\n- Unified mindset for consistent workshop quality\n- Knowledgeable about frequently asked questions", + "text": "Don’t be alone, it’s much more fun and relaxed to work in a team!+\n\nHere at Kunststoffschmiede we recommend 3-4 supervisors when you’re working with two machines. There are always people who have a lot of questions.\n\nWhat does your team need:\n- perfect operation of the machines and moulds\n- communicative\n- Your mindset is on one level. So your workshops have a consistent quality.\n- They know the answers to the most asked questions. 👉 Next step!\n", "title": "Prepare your team", "_animationKey": "uniqueqqj16g", "images": [ @@ -232,7 +232,7 @@ ] }, { - "text": "During the process, many individuals have questions. We suggest you have answers to the following:\n\n- What is your background?\n- What is your goal?\n- What is your project?\n- Can you be booked?\n- What type of plastic can you process?\n- Are the fumes hazardous?\n- What are the components of plastic?\n- How can I adopt a more environmentally conscious lifestyle?", + "text": "During the process most of the people have a lot of questions. We recommend that you always have an answer to the following question:\n \n- What’s your story/backround?\n- What’s your goal?\n- What’s [filtered]?\n- Can you be booked\n- What type of plastic are you able to recycle?\n- Are the fumes toxic?\n- What is plastic? (ingredients)\n- How can I change my lifestyle into an ecofriendly lifestyle?\n", "_animationKey": "uniquejmgt6t", "title": "Typical questions asked at a workshop in public:", "images": [ @@ -252,7 +252,7 @@ }, { "title": "Wanna get money?", - "text": "Consider that your skills are unique. If you are invited to conduct a workshop, decide whether to request payment. The amount depends on your situation.\n\nHere are some potential costs:\n- Transport\n- Use of machinery, molds, and tools\n- Team fees\n- Venue costs\n- Coordination\n- Organizational overhead", + "text": "Be aware that you are doing something special that only a few can offer. And if you're asked to do a workshop, then think about whether you want to be paid for it. How much money you take is up to you. It depends on what circumstances you have to deal with.\n\nHere are some cost items listed:\n- Transport\n- Use of the machine, moulds and other tools\n- Fee for your team\n- Placing cost\n- Coordination\n- Overhead for your organisation \n", "_animationKey": "uniquehlvzmq", "images": [ { @@ -286,11 +286,11 @@ } ], "_animationKey": "uniquef4gr52", - "text": "Inform potential participants about your workshop to maximize attendance and learning opportunities.\n\nConsider announcing your event in these places:\n- Post a story or message on social media.\n- Create an event on a suitable community platform." + "text": "Depending on how open the event is, make sure you don’t forget to let people know about your workshop, so that as many people as possible get the chance to see and learn.\n\nThere are several places where you can announce it, here some ideas:\n- post a story/post on social media with #preciousplastic\n- post it in your country’s channel on the [filtered] Discord\n- create an event on the community platform\n👉 community.preciousplastic.com/events\n" }, { "title": "Site-specific questions", - "text": "### Workshop Preparation Checklist\n\nBefore departing your workshop, confirm the following with the event organizer:\n\n- **Power Source**: Verify strength and distance to the plug.\n- **Water Access**: Identify the nearest water tap.\n- **Weather Conditions**: Ensure protection from rain and proper ventilation.\n- **Space**: Determine available area.\n- **Audience**: Clarify the expected participants.\n- **Schedule**: Confirm construction and dismantling times.\n- **Liability**: Establish responsibility for any issues.", + "text": "As mentioned before you are leaving your lovely workshop. So sad :(\nTo be sure that everything runs great with your mobile workshop, you should clarify the following questions with the organizer:\n\n- Power source: Is it strong enough, and how far is the plug?\n- You need fresh water? Ask for the next water tap.\n- Weather conditions: Is it protected from rain, ventilated with fresh air?\n- How much space is available?\n- What kind of people are expected?\n- When are construction and dismantling times?\n- Who is liable if something goes wrong?\n", "_animationKey": "uniquei69bju", "images": [ { @@ -323,12 +323,12 @@ } ], "title": "Construction on site", - "text": "Label all stations and ensure adequate space around machines for visibility. Align your setup with the process flow for consistency. \n\nSet up your mobile workshop in advance and rest before starting.", + "text": "Label all the stations and create enough space around the machines so many people can see what’s happening. Compare your setup with the course of the recycling process and check if it’s similar. \n\nBuild up your mobile workshop with enough time and take a break before everything starts.\n", "_animationKey": "uniquebk8yp" }, { "title": "Timing", - "text": "Test everything in advance with friends to ensure smooth operation. This practice helps identify areas for improvement and determines how many people you can manage simultaneously.", + "text": "Test everything beforehand with friends, so that you’re sure it runs smoothly. Then you have a better feeling and you know on what points you have to work on. If you do not practice, you won’t know how many people you can look after at the same time etc.", "images": [ { "size": 135420, @@ -370,7 +370,7 @@ "_animationKey": "uniquex5p7x" }, { - "text": "Consider how to involve others in the process safely. Determine tasks that can be completed without risking personal or equipment safety.", + "text": "Think carefully about how to get strangers involved in the process. What can they do without endangering themselves or the machines?", "title": "Participation", "images": [ { @@ -428,7 +428,7 @@ "alt": "Post processing quer.png" } ], - "text": "The final step involves documentation.\n\nHow many people did you reach, and how many products did you produce? Did you make significant contacts, or was there press coverage?\n\nIt's beneficial to track your impact and learn from your experiences. Remember to collect all your pictures.", + "text": "The last step is all about documentation...\n\nHow many people have you reached and how many products did you produce? Could you make interesting contacts or was the press there and wrote a report about you? \n\nIt’s good to track your impact and learn from your experiences.\nAnd of course collect all your pictures! :)\n", "_animationKey": "uniquecrajwx" } ], @@ -566,9 +566,5 @@ "images": [] } }, - "content": "To effectively address plastic issues, it is important to demonstrate the process in person. Below is a brief overview of factors we at Kunststoffschmiede consider before initiating a public workshop.\n\n\nUser Location: Dresden, Germany\n\nBefore conducting workshops, decide on the type of machine to use. Consider the workshop's nature, attendee number, and available time. Ensure all machines in public settings are safe and free from gross negligence. For optimal performance, maintain cleanliness, ensure proper functioning, and have spare parts available.\n\nEnsure your molds are reliable. For optimal use:\n\n- Implement a quick-release system for fast opening and closing.\n- Opt for a small injection volume.\n- Design the product for easy demolding.\n\n## Mobile Workshop Essentials\n\nWhen departing from your workshop, consider this list from Kunststoffschmiede (Germany) for a mobile setup:\n\n- Injection machine and bicycle shredder\n- Maintenance tools\n- Product counter\n- Electric box (including power cable, distributor, and lights)\n- Molds\n- Shredded and unshredded plastic\n- Sample products to demonstrate potential\n- Informative flyers and posters\n- First aid kit\n- Camera\n- Straps, tape, and ropes\n- Tub and cleaning supplies for washing plastic\n\nFor your workshop, ensure you have both shredded and clean plastic ready for shredding. Maintaining reserves is advisable to prevent disruptions in case your shredder malfunctions.\n\nHaving a range of material and product samples is beneficial for demonstrating the possibilities of plastic utilization. You may use your own products or obtain additional samples from various sources to showcase global workspace practices. Display the products in an attractive manner.\n\nYou must also prepare by asking yourself the following questions:\n\n- What is the purpose of this workshop?\n- What knowledge and skills do you intend to impart?\n- What are your areas of expertise?\n\nWorking as a team is more enjoyable and efficient.\n\nWe recommend having 3-4 supervisors when operating two machines, as there will always be inquiries to address.\n\nTeam Requirements:\n- Proficient in machine and mold operation\n- Communicative skills\n- Unified mindset for consistent workshop quality\n- Knowledgeable about frequently asked questions\n\nDuring the process, many individuals have questions. We suggest you have answers to the following:\n\n- What is your background?\n- What is your goal?\n- What is your project?\n- Can you be booked?\n- What type of plastic can you process?\n- Are the fumes hazardous?\n- What are the components of plastic?\n- How can I adopt a more environmentally conscious lifestyle?\n\nConsider that your skills are unique. If you are invited to conduct a workshop, decide whether to request payment. The amount depends on your situation.\n\nHere are some potential costs:\n- Transport\n- Use of machinery, molds, and tools\n- Team fees\n- Venue costs\n- Coordination\n- Organizational overhead\n\nInform potential participants about your workshop to maximize attendance and learning opportunities.\n\nConsider announcing your event in these places:\n- Post a story or message on social media.\n- Create an event on a suitable community platform.\n\n### Workshop Preparation Checklist\n\nBefore departing your workshop, confirm the following with the event organizer:\n\n- **Power Source**: Verify strength and distance to the plug.\n- **Water Access**: Identify the nearest water tap.\n- **Weather Conditions**: Ensure protection from rain and proper ventilation.\n- **Space**: Determine available area.\n- **Audience**: Clarify the expected participants.\n- **Schedule**: Confirm construction and dismantling times.\n- **Liability**: Establish responsibility for any issues.\n\nLabel all stations and ensure adequate space around machines for visibility. Align your setup with the process flow for consistency. \n\nSet up your mobile workshop in advance and rest before starting.\n\nTest everything in advance with friends to ensure smooth operation. This practice helps identify areas for improvement and determines how many people you can manage simultaneously.\n\nConsider how to involve others in the process safely. Determine tasks that can be completed without risking personal or equipment safety.\n\nThe final step involves documentation.\n\nHow many people did you reach, and how many products did you produce? Did you make significant contacts, or was there press coverage?\n\nIt's beneficial to track your impact and learn from your experiences. Remember to collect all your pictures.", - "keywords": "plastic workshop, mobile workshop, Kunststoffschmiede Dresden, injection machine, plastic recycling, workshop safety, mold operation, plastic utilization, eco-friendly practices, workshop preparation", - "resources": "### Hardware\n\n- Injection machine\n- Bicycle shredder\n- Electric box (power cable, distributor, lights)\n- Molds with quick-release system\n- Product counter\n\n### Tools\n\n- Maintenance tools\n- Straps, tape, ropes\n- Tub and cleaning supplies\n- Camera for documentation\n- Shredder spare parts\n\n### Materials & Supplies\n\n- Shredded plastic reserves\n- Unshredded plastic for processing\n- Sample products (self-made or sourced)\n- Informative flyers/posters\n- First aid kit\n\n### Workshop Setup\n\n- Power source verification tools\n- Weather protection gear (rain covers, ventilation)\n- Labeled workstation signage\n- Demo display stands for products\n- Event scheduling materials\n\n### Safety & Logistics\n\n- Liability agreements\n- Team communication plans (3-4 supervisors)\n- Transport logistics plan\n- Participant engagement strategy (Q&A prep)\n- Post-event impact tracking system", - "references": "### Articles\n\n- https://www.instructables.com/How-to-Run-PLA-Recycling-Workshop/\n- https://www.instructables.com/RMS-Injection-Molding-Demonstration-Via-TechShop/\n- https://www.designboom.com/technology/precious-plastic-dave-hakkens-recycling-workshop-06-02-2014/\n- https://www.electronicspecifier.com/news/analysis/start-your-own-little-plastic-recycling-workshop\n- https://www.[filtered].earth/news/educational-workshops\n\n### Books & Guides\n\n- https://parlormultimedia.com/writingspaces/wp-content/uploads/2024/07/technical.pdf\n- https://opensource.com/sites/default/files/gated-content/open_org_educators_guide_1_0_1.pdf\n\n### Open Source Designs\n\n- https://www.opensourceecology.org/3d-printer-construction-set-workshop-3/\n- https://formlabs.com/blog/diy-injection-molding/\n- https://www.designboom.com/technology/precious-plastic-dave-hakkens-recycling-workshop-06-02-2014/\n- https://www.[filtered].earth/project/precious-plastic\n\n### Academic Resources\n\n- https://www.stem.org.uk/resources/elibrary/resource/31059/plastics-workshop-practices-and-industrial-processes\n- https://summit.stc.org/wp-content/uploads/2021/02/2020STCSummit_Proceedings_Updated.pdf\n\n### Organizations & Platforms\n\n- https://kunststoffschmiede.konglomerat.org/en\n- https://www.[filtered].earth/project/precious-plastic\n\n### Industrial Processes\n\n- https://firstmold.com/tips/injection-mold-repair/\n- https://www.essentracomponents.com/en-us/news/manufacturing/injection-molding/what-is-plastic-injection-molding-and-how-does-it-work\n\n### Training Programs\n\n- https://www.ferris.edu/administration/academicaffairs/extendedinternational/cpd/plastics-institute.htm\n- https://paulsontraining.com/injection-molding-training/", - "brief": "Create impactful plastic workshops with Kunststoffschmiede. Learn machine safety, mold use, and set up mobile workshops. Share knowledge, connect and inspire change." + "content": "A crucial part of working towards reducing plastic pollution is to show people the process offline! The following introduction gives you a quick overview about all the stuff we at Kunststoffschmiede pay attention before starting a workshop in public. \n\n\nUser Location: Dresden, Germany\n\nOk, so before you start giving workshops, think about what kind of machine you would like to use in this context. What kind of workshop is it? How many people are coming and how much time do they have?\nAll the machines you use in public have to be safe against gross negligence. For a better performance, make sure that everything is clean, working properly and maybe you have some spare parts with you.\n\n\nLike the machines you use in public your moulds have to be reliable as well. We recommend moulds with a small cycle time, so as many people as possible can produce a product...\n\nThat means:\n- Quick release-System to open and close your mould fast\n- Small injection volume\n- The product is easy to demould\n\n\nYou are leaving your workshop, so you need everything to run a plastic recycling workshop mobile. \nAs everyone has their own way of doing it, you get a list from Kunststoffschmiede (Germany) for your inspiration:\n\n- Injection machine and the bicycle shredder\n- Tools for maintenance \n- Productcounter\n- Electric box (including: Power cable, distributer and some lights)\n- Moulds\n- Shredded plastic\n- Clean and unshredded plastic\n- Samples from us and the community to show the possibilities\n- Informations like flyers and posters\n- First Aid Kit\n- Camera\n- strap, tape and ropes\n- Tub and cleaning stuff to wash the plastic\n\n\nFor your workshop you need shredded plastic and some clean plastic which is ready to be shredded. Reserves are always good, maybe the shredder stops working and you are running out of fresh granules… Be prepared!\n\nIt’s always good to have a variety of material and product samples to inspire people and help them understand the possibilities of plastic recycling. \nYou can use your own products, or get some more from the [filtered] Bazar to show what other workspaces around the world are doing. Present the products in a beautiful setting.\n👉 bazar.preciousplastic.com\n\n\nYou also have to prepare yourself and ask yourself these questions:\n\n- Why are you giving this workshop?\n- What kind of knowledge and experience do you want to teach people?\n- What are your good at?\n\n\nDon’t be alone, it’s much more fun and relaxed to work in a team!+\n\nHere at Kunststoffschmiede we recommend 3-4 supervisors when you’re working with two machines. There are always people who have a lot of questions.\n\nWhat does your team need:\n- perfect operation of the machines and moulds\n- communicative\n- Your mindset is on one level. So your workshops have a consistent quality.\n- They know the answers to the most asked questions. 👉 Next step!\n\n\nDuring the process most of the people have a lot of questions. We recommend that you always have an answer to the following question:\n \n- What’s your story/backround?\n- What’s your goal?\n- What’s [filtered]?\n- Can you be booked\n- What type of plastic are you able to recycle?\n- Are the fumes toxic?\n- What is plastic? (ingredients)\n- How can I change my lifestyle into an ecofriendly lifestyle?\n\n\nBe aware that you are doing something special that only a few can offer. And if you're asked to do a workshop, then think about whether you want to be paid for it. How much money you take is up to you. It depends on what circumstances you have to deal with.\n\nHere are some cost items listed:\n- Transport\n- Use of the machine, moulds and other tools\n- Fee for your team\n- Placing cost\n- Coordination\n- Overhead for your organisation \n\n\nDepending on how open the event is, make sure you don’t forget to let people know about your workshop, so that as many people as possible get the chance to see and learn.\n\nThere are several places where you can announce it, here some ideas:\n- post a story/post on social media with #preciousplastic\n- post it in your country’s channel on the [filtered] Discord\n- create an event on the community platform\n👉 community.preciousplastic.com/events\n\n\nAs mentioned before you are leaving your lovely workshop. So sad :(\nTo be sure that everything runs great with your mobile workshop, you should clarify the following questions with the organizer:\n\n- Power source: Is it strong enough, and how far is the plug?\n- You need fresh water? Ask for the next water tap.\n- Weather conditions: Is it protected from rain, ventilated with fresh air?\n- How much space is available?\n- What kind of people are expected?\n- When are construction and dismantling times?\n- Who is liable if something goes wrong?\n\n\nLabel all the stations and create enough space around the machines so many people can see what’s happening. Compare your setup with the course of the recycling process and check if it’s similar. \n\nBuild up your mobile workshop with enough time and take a break before everything starts.\n\n\nTest everything beforehand with friends, so that you’re sure it runs smoothly. Then you have a better feeling and you know on what points you have to work on. If you do not practice, you won’t know how many people you can look after at the same time etc.\n\nThink carefully about how to get strangers involved in the process. What can they do without endangering themselves or the machines?\n\nThe last step is all about documentation...\n\nHow many people have you reached and how many products did you produce? Could you make interesting contacts or was the press there and wrote a report about you? \n\nIt’s good to track your impact and learn from your experiences.\nAnd of course collect all your pictures! :)\n" } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/self-compressing-oven-mould-for-making-sheets/README.md b/howtos/self-compressing-oven-mould-for-making-sheets/README.md index dc2b704ba..575f5c5b2 100644 --- a/howtos/self-compressing-oven-mould-for-making-sheets/README.md +++ b/howtos/self-compressing-oven-mould-for-making-sheets/README.md @@ -1,46 +1,39 @@ --- title: Self-compressing oven mould for making sheets slug: self-compressing-oven-mould-for-making-sheets -description: ## Tutorial: Making Sheets with a Self-Compressing Mould and Kitchen Oven - -This guide explains how to create sheets using a self-compressing mold and kitchen oven. This method requires minimal investment and enables the simultaneous production of multiple sheets. +description: This Tutorial is about making sheets with a self-compressing mould and a kitchen oven. The approach has a very low invest and the possibility to make a few sheets in parallel. tags: ["compression"] category: Guides difficulty: Medium time: < 5 hours -keywords: self-compressing mold, sheet making tutorial, kitchen oven sheet production, DIY mold sheets, galvanized metal sheets, aluminum profiles assembly, plastic sheets oven, compression spring assembly, ABS plastic sheets, oven sheet mold +keywords: location: Wuppertal, Germany --- # Self-compressing oven mould for making sheets ![Self-compressing oven mould for making sheets](20210120_072126.jpg) -## Tutorial: Making Sheets with a Self-Compressing Mould and Kitchen Oven - -This guide explains how to create sheets using a self-compressing mold and kitchen oven. This method requires minimal investment and enables the simultaneous production of multiple sheets. +This Tutorial is about making sheets with a self-compressing mould and a kitchen oven. The approach has a very low invest and the possibility to make a few sheets in parallel. User Location: Wuppertal, Germany ## Steps ### Step 1: Cut the raw material -## Materials Needed +You will need two galvanized metal sheets and Aluminium profiles for the frame -- **Galvanized Metal Sheets**: 2 pieces, 350x400x3 mm (13.8x15.7x0.12 inches) -- **Aluminum Profiles**: - - 2 pieces, 12.5x7.5x400 mm (0.49x0.3x15.75 inches) - - 2 pieces, 12.5x7.5x325 mm (0.49x0.3x12.8 inches) +Material: +2 pcs 350x400x3mm galvanized metal sheet +2pcs 12,5x7,5x400mm Aluminium Profile +2pcs 12,5x7,5x325mm Aluminium Profile -## Tools Required +Tools: +Saw or flex -- Saw or angle grinder +ToDo: -## Instructions + Sheets: Normally, you can buy metal sheets in the right dimension. Otherwise you need to mark the dimensions on a bigger one and make a cut out. We use a flex for the cutting but it is also possible to use another kind of saw -### Preparing Sheets +Frame: +Mark the right length on the profile an cut it by using a saw. -Purchase metal sheets in the specified dimensions, or mark and cut larger sheets to size. Use an angle grinder or saw for cutting. - -### Assembling Frame - -Measure and mark the necessary lengths on the aluminum profiles. Cut using a saw. ![20201230_114756.jpg](./20201230_114756.jpg) @@ -53,23 +46,22 @@ Measure and mark the necessary lengths on the aluminum profiles. Cut using a saw ### Step 2: Drill assembly holes -### Assembly Instructions +The profiles will be screwed on one metal sheet, therefore you need to drill assembly holes first. -#### Materials -- Cut aluminum profiles -- Metal sheet +Material: +Cutted aluminium profiles and one metal sheet -#### Tools -- 5mm (3/16 inch) and 8mm (5/16 inch) metal drill bits -- Clamp +Tool: +Metal drill 5mm und 8mm, clamp -#### Procedure +To Do: -1. Position a 400mm (15.75 inches) profile on the metal sheet, secure it with a clamp, and drill two 5mm (3/16 inch) holes through both components, approximately 80mm (3.15 inches) from each end. +Place one 400mm profile on the metal sheet, fix it with a clamp and drill two 5mm holes through profile and metal sheet. A good location fort he holes is around 80mm from each side. -2. Drill two 8mm (5/16 inch) holes on the top side of the aluminum profile, ensuring not to penetrate completely. These holes accommodate the M5 screw heads. +Now drill two 8mm holes on the upper side oft he aluminium profile. Make sure not to drill through the whole profile. The purpose oft he 8mm hole ist to perfectly fit the M5-Screw-Head into the profile. + +Repeat the steps with the two 325mm profiles and then with the second 400mm profile. -3. Repeat these steps with the two 325mm (12.8 inches) profiles and the remaining 400mm (15.75 inches) profile. ![20210102_165438_edit.jpg](./20210102_165438_edit.jpg) @@ -83,13 +75,15 @@ Measure and mark the necessary lengths on the aluminum profiles. Cut using a saw ### Step 3: Screw the Alu-profile Material: -Drilled aluminum profiles and metal sheet, M5 screws and nuts +drilled aluminium profiles and metal sheet, M5 Screw & Nuts Tools: -Screwdriver +Screw-Driver + +ToDo: + +Place the eight screws in the profile and fix them with the nuts -Instructions: -Insert the eight screws into the profile and secure them with nuts. ![20210102_165457.jpg](./20210102_165457.jpg) @@ -102,17 +96,19 @@ Insert the eight screws into the profile and secure them with nuts. ### Step 4: Drill compression holes -You will need four holes for the screws of the compression springs. These are typically placed in the corners of the sheets but can be located elsewhere. +You will need four holes which hold the screws for the compression springs. I would suggest to place them in the corners oft he sheets, but it is also possible the locate them anywhere else. -**Material:** -- Both metal sheets +Material: +Both metal sheets -**Tools:** -- 0.24-inch (6 mm) Drill +Tools: +M6 Drill -**Instructions:** +ToDo: + +Place the second metal sheet on the framing and align them for perfect fit. Fixate everything with screw-clamps. Drill one hole in every corner. +Instead of holes, it is also possible to saw a cutout which makes the assembly / disassembly oft he compression screws faster. -Position the second metal sheet on the frame and align perfectly. Secure with screw clamps. Drill one hole in each corner. Alternatively, you might cut a slot to expedite the assembly and disassembly of the compression screws. ![20210102_181124.jpg](./20210102_181124.jpg) @@ -122,24 +118,16 @@ Position the second metal sheet on the frame and align perfectly. Secure with sc ### Step 5: First testrun -The mold is complete; let's test it. +The mould is finished so far, let’s test it. -Materials: -- Mold -- Plastic granules or pellets -- Silicone oil spray -- Oven -- M6 screw -- Washers -- Compression spring +Material: +Mould; small Plastic-Granulate or Pellets, Silicone-oil spray; oven, M6 Screw, washers, compression spring -Instructions: +ToDo: + +Give the inside oft he mould a slightly silicone oil cover by spraying a small amount on the top and bottom. +Fill the plastic into the mould and place the cover on the top. Then place the compessions screws in the cut out and tension the spring by screwing. Place the mold in the oven and choose the temperature depending on your plastic. If you don’t know the right temperature, start with 200degree and change it in the next run depending on the outcome. 1,5h baking time is also a good starting point. -1. Lightly spray the inside of the mold with silicone oil. -2. Fill the mold with plastic and place the cover on top. -3. Insert compression screws and tighten the spring by screwing. -4. Place the mold in the oven. Set the temperature based on your plastic type. If unsure, start at 392°F (200°C) and adjust in subsequent trials. -5. Begin with a baking time of 1.5 hours. ![20210117_172715.jpg](./20210117_172715.jpg) @@ -152,20 +140,19 @@ Instructions: ### Step 6: semi-auto mass production -### Materials: -- 4 Oven Molds -- Timer -- Optional Oven Rack +To make one sheet with the oven is nice, but it is possible to make a few more in parallel. So you can build a few more moulds an place them all together in the oven. If you don’t want to wait until the baking process is finished, you can also add a timer which switches the oven off automatically. -### Tools: -- Screwdriver +Material: +4 pcs. Oven Molds, Timer, Oven-rack(optional) -### Instructions: +Tools: +Screw Driver + +ToDo: + +Prepare all four moulds like shown in step 5. Stack them in the oven and start the baking process. Be aware of the baking time which normally goes up because of the higher thermal mass in the oven. +Start the timer. The oven process now runs automatically with no need of a human for switching off -1. Prepare the four molds as shown in Step 5. -2. Stack the molds in the oven. -3. Initiate the baking process, noting that increased thermal mass may extend the baking time. -4. Set the timer to automate the oven shutdown. ![20210319_182100.jpg](./20210319_182100.jpg) @@ -178,23 +165,18 @@ Instructions: ### Step 7: Process Video -### Video Guide - -A brief video demonstrating the entire process. +A short Video of the whole process ### Step 8: Results -### ABS Sheet Making Guide +Here are some pictures of a sheet made out of ABS. If you compare it with the simplicity of the process, the outcome is really great. After cutting the edges, you will get a flat sheet with good surface. (small pellets / flakes work best) -Below are images of a sheet made from ABS, showcasing the effectiveness of this straightforward process. After trimming the edges, you will obtain a flat sheet with a smooth surface. Small pellets or flakes are recommended for best results. +So, try the process yourself. Play around with it, hack it and if you find even a better / simpler way to produce sheets, share it with the community by making a How-to -#### Process Exploration +Let me close with some words of Warning: -Attempt the process independently. Experiment and innovate, and if you discover a more efficient method to produce sheets, consider sharing your findings through a tutorial. +Always pay attention to occupational safety. Wear gloves, safety glases and a respirator mask while working with molten plastics. Don't melt plastic in your cooking oven, buy a cheap second hand oven which you only use for the melting. Thanks :-) -#### Safety Warning - -Ensure adherence to safety precautions. Use gloves, safety glasses, and a respirator while handling molten plastics. Avoid using your home oven for melting; instead, acquire a dedicated second-hand oven for this purpose. ![20210128_114008.jpg](./20210128_114008.jpg) @@ -206,48 +188,4 @@ Ensure adherence to safety precautions. Use gloves, safety glasses, and a respir ![20210128_102156.jpg](./20210128_102156.jpg) ## Resources -### Tools - -- Saw or angle grinder -- Metal drill bits (5mm, 8mm, 6mm) -- Clamp -- Screwdriver -- Safety equipment (gloves, glasses, respirator) - -### Hardware - -- Galvanized metal sheets (350x400x3mm) -- Aluminum profiles (12.5x7.5x400mm and 12.5x7.5x325mm) -- Fasteners (M5/M6 screws, nuts, washers, compression springs) -- Oven (dedicated) and oven molds -- Plastic granules/pellets and silicone oil spray - -### Software - -- N/A (No software required) -## References -## References - -### Opensource Designs - -- Self-compressing oven mould for making sheets [1] -- ~~[Build a compression machine](https://[filtered].github.io/academy/build/compression)~~ [2] -- Sheet-press mould development [7] -- DIY compression mold using a kitchen oven [3] -- [Vacuum forming DIY guide](https://www.instructables.com/Make-a-good,-cheap,-upgradeable-sheet-plastic-vacu/) [8] -- [DIY plastic molding forum guide](https://www.customfighters.com/threads/diy-plastic-molds.5409/) [15] - -### Books - -- [Compression Molding of Rubber – A Practical Handbook](https://store.technobiz.org/product/compression-molding-of-rubber-a-practical-guide/) [9] -- [Injection and Compression Molding Fundamentals](https://www.routledge.com/Injection-and-Compression-Molding-Fundamentals/Isayev/p/book/9780824776701) [11] -- [Vacuum Forming for the Hobbyist](https://www.build-stuff.com/books/vacuum-forming-for-the-hobbyist/) [12] -- [Compression Molding of Rubber (Alternative Edition)](https://rubberworld.com/product/compression-molding-of-rubber-a-practical-handbook/) [14] - -### Papers - -- [Compression Molding Patent (WO2003095187A1)](https://patents.google.com/patent/WO2003095187A1/en) [4] - -### YouTube - -- [3D Printed Compression Mold Tutorial](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hmgx0lIUDD8) [6] \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/self-compressing-oven-mould-for-making-sheets/config.json b/howtos/self-compressing-oven-mould-for-making-sheets/config.json index 8e3266776..7399863b8 100644 --- a/howtos/self-compressing-oven-mould-for-making-sheets/config.json +++ b/howtos/self-compressing-oven-mould-for-making-sheets/config.json @@ -8,7 +8,7 @@ "difficulty_level": "Medium", "comments": [], "_id": "U2HfhLmwuXaxHICJiVmc", - "description": "## Tutorial: Making Sheets with a Self-Compressing Mould and Kitchen Oven\n\nThis guide explains how to create sheets using a self-compressing mold and kitchen oven. This method requires minimal investment and enables the simultaneous production of multiple sheets.", + "description": "This Tutorial is about making sheets with a self-compressing mould and a kitchen oven. The approach has a very low invest and the possibility to make a few sheets in parallel. ", "moderation": "accepted", "creatorCountry": "de", "total_downloads": 0, @@ -85,12 +85,12 @@ } ], "title": "Cut the raw material ", - "text": "## Materials Needed\n\n- **Galvanized Metal Sheets**: 2 pieces, 350x400x3 mm (13.8x15.7x0.12 inches)\n- **Aluminum Profiles**:\n - 2 pieces, 12.5x7.5x400 mm (0.49x0.3x15.75 inches)\n - 2 pieces, 12.5x7.5x325 mm (0.49x0.3x12.8 inches)\n\n## Tools Required\n\n- Saw or angle grinder\n\n## Instructions\n\n### Preparing Sheets\n\nPurchase metal sheets in the specified dimensions, or mark and cut larger sheets to size. Use an angle grinder or saw for cutting.\n\n### Assembling Frame\n\nMeasure and mark the necessary lengths on the aluminum profiles. Cut using a saw.", + "text": "You will need two galvanized metal sheets and Aluminium profiles for the frame \n\nMaterial:\n2 pcs 350x400x3mm galvanized metal sheet\n2pcs 12,5x7,5x400mm Aluminium Profile\n2pcs 12,5x7,5x325mm Aluminium Profile\n\nTools: \nSaw or flex\n\nToDo: \n\n Sheets: Normally, you can buy metal sheets in the right dimension. Otherwise you need to mark the dimensions on a bigger one and make a cut out. We use a flex for the cutting but it is also possible to use another kind of saw\n\nFrame:\nMark the right length on the profile an cut it by using a saw.\n", "_animationKey": "unique1" }, { "title": "Drill assembly holes", - "text": "### Assembly Instructions\n\n#### Materials\n- Cut aluminum profiles\n- Metal sheet\n\n#### Tools\n- 5mm (3/16 inch) and 8mm (5/16 inch) metal drill bits\n- Clamp\n\n#### Procedure\n\n1. Position a 400mm (15.75 inches) profile on the metal sheet, secure it with a clamp, and drill two 5mm (3/16 inch) holes through both components, approximately 80mm (3.15 inches) from each end.\n\n2. Drill two 8mm (5/16 inch) holes on the top side of the aluminum profile, ensuring not to penetrate completely. These holes accommodate the M5 screw heads.\n\n3. Repeat these steps with the two 325mm (12.8 inches) profiles and the remaining 400mm (15.75 inches) profile.", + "text": "The profiles will be screwed on one metal sheet, therefore you need to drill assembly holes first.\n\nMaterial:\nCutted aluminium profiles and one metal sheet\n\nTool:\nMetal drill 5mm und 8mm, clamp\n\nTo Do:\n\nPlace one 400mm profile on the metal sheet, fix it with a clamp and drill two 5mm holes through profile and metal sheet. A good location fort he holes is around 80mm from each side.\n\nNow drill two 8mm holes on the upper side oft he aluminium profile. Make sure not to drill through the whole profile. The purpose oft he 8mm hole ist to perfectly fit the M5-Screw-Head into the profile.\n\nRepeat the steps with the two 325mm profiles and then with the second 400mm profile.\n", "images": [ { "timeCreated": "2021-04-07T06:07:55.456Z", @@ -132,7 +132,7 @@ "_animationKey": "unique2" }, { - "text": "Material:\nDrilled aluminum profiles and metal sheet, M5 screws and nuts\n\nTools:\nScrewdriver\n\nInstructions:\nInsert the eight screws into the profile and secure them with nuts.", + "text": "Material:\ndrilled aluminium profiles and metal sheet, M5 Screw & Nuts\n\nTools:\nScrew-Driver\n\nToDo:\n\nPlace the eight screws in the profile and fix them with the nuts\n", "title": "Screw the Alu-profile ", "_animationKey": "unique3", "images": [ @@ -175,7 +175,7 @@ ] }, { - "text": "You will need four holes for the screws of the compression springs. These are typically placed in the corners of the sheets but can be located elsewhere.\n\n**Material:**\n- Both metal sheets\n\n**Tools:**\n- 0.24-inch (6 mm) Drill\n\n**Instructions:**\n\nPosition the second metal sheet on the frame and align perfectly. Secure with screw clamps. Drill one hole in each corner. Alternatively, you might cut a slot to expedite the assembly and disassembly of the compression screws.", + "text": "You will need four holes which hold the screws for the compression springs. I would suggest to place them in the corners oft he sheets, but it is also possible the locate them anywhere else.\n\nMaterial:\nBoth metal sheets\n\nTools:\nM6 Drill\n\nToDo:\n\nPlace the second metal sheet on the framing and align them for perfect fit. Fixate everything with screw-clamps. Drill one hole in every corner.\nInstead of holes, it is also possible to saw a cutout which makes the assembly / disassembly oft he compression screws faster.\n", "title": "Drill compression holes", "images": [ { @@ -207,7 +207,7 @@ }, { "_animationKey": "uniquesj61u", - "text": "The mold is complete; let's test it.\n\nMaterials:\n- Mold\n- Plastic granules or pellets\n- Silicone oil spray\n- Oven\n- M6 screw\n- Washers\n- Compression spring\n\nInstructions:\n\n1. Lightly spray the inside of the mold with silicone oil.\n2. Fill the mold with plastic and place the cover on top.\n3. Insert compression screws and tighten the spring by screwing.\n4. Place the mold in the oven. Set the temperature based on your plastic type. If unsure, start at 392°F (200°C) and adjust in subsequent trials.\n5. Begin with a baking time of 1.5 hours.", + "text": "The mould is finished so far, let’s test it.\n\nMaterial:\nMould; small Plastic-Granulate or Pellets, Silicone-oil spray; oven, M6 Screw, washers, compression spring \n\nToDo:\n\nGive the inside oft he mould a slightly silicone oil cover by spraying a small amount on the top and bottom. \nFill the plastic into the mould and place the cover on the top. Then place the compessions screws in the cut out and tension the spring by screwing. Place the mold in the oven and choose the temperature depending on your plastic. If you don’t know the right temperature, start with 200degree and change it in the next run depending on the outcome. 1,5h baking time is also a good starting point.\n", "title": "First testrun", "images": [ { @@ -250,7 +250,7 @@ }, { "title": "semi-auto mass production", - "text": "### Materials:\n- 4 Oven Molds\n- Timer\n- Optional Oven Rack\n\n### Tools:\n- Screwdriver\n\n### Instructions:\n\n1. Prepare the four molds as shown in Step 5.\n2. Stack the molds in the oven.\n3. Initiate the baking process, noting that increased thermal mass may extend the baking time.\n4. Set the timer to automate the oven shutdown.", + "text": "To make one sheet with the oven is nice, but it is possible to make a few more in parallel. So you can build a few more moulds an place them all together in the oven. If you don’t want to wait until the baking process is finished, you can also add a timer which switches the oven off automatically.\n\nMaterial:\n4 pcs. Oven Molds, Timer, Oven-rack(optional) \n\nTools:\nScrew Driver\n\nToDo:\n\nPrepare all four moulds like shown in step 5. Stack them in the oven and start the baking process. Be aware of the baking time which normally goes up because of the higher thermal mass in the oven.\nStart the timer. The oven process now runs automatically with no need of a human for switching off\n", "images": [ { "name": "20210319_182100.jpg", @@ -294,7 +294,7 @@ { "images": [], "videoUrl": "https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=euEpTkpO0yM", - "text": "### Video Guide\n\nA brief video demonstrating the entire process.", + "text": "A short Video of the whole process", "_animationKey": "uniquedoi0t6", "title": "Process Video" }, @@ -339,7 +339,7 @@ } ], "_animationKey": "unique69q4ke", - "text": "### ABS Sheet Making Guide\n\nBelow are images of a sheet made from ABS, showcasing the effectiveness of this straightforward process. After trimming the edges, you will obtain a flat sheet with a smooth surface. Small pellets or flakes are recommended for best results.\n\n#### Process Exploration\n\nAttempt the process independently. Experiment and innovate, and if you discover a more efficient method to produce sheets, consider sharing your findings through a tutorial.\n\n#### Safety Warning\n\nEnsure adherence to safety precautions. Use gloves, safety glasses, and a respirator while handling molten plastics. Avoid using your home oven for melting; instead, acquire a dedicated second-hand oven for this purpose." + "text": "Here are some pictures of a sheet made out of ABS. If you compare it with the simplicity of the process, the outcome is really great. After cutting the edges, you will get a flat sheet with good surface. (small pellets / flakes work best)\n\nSo, try the process yourself. Play around with it, hack it and if you find even a better / simpler way to produce sheets, share it with the community by making a How-to\n\nLet me close with some words of Warning:\n\nAlways pay attention to occupational safety. Wear gloves, safety glases and a respirator mask while working with molten plastics. Don't melt plastic in your cooking oven, buy a cheap second hand oven which you only use for the melting. Thanks :-)\n" } ], "_modified": "2024-01-28T23:18:54.203Z", @@ -488,9 +488,5 @@ "urls": [] } }, - "content": "## Tutorial: Making Sheets with a Self-Compressing Mould and Kitchen Oven\n\nThis guide explains how to create sheets using a self-compressing mold and kitchen oven. This method requires minimal investment and enables the simultaneous production of multiple sheets.\n\n\nUser Location: Wuppertal, Germany\n\n## Materials Needed\n\n- **Galvanized Metal Sheets**: 2 pieces, 350x400x3 mm (13.8x15.7x0.12 inches)\n- **Aluminum Profiles**:\n - 2 pieces, 12.5x7.5x400 mm (0.49x0.3x15.75 inches)\n - 2 pieces, 12.5x7.5x325 mm (0.49x0.3x12.8 inches)\n\n## Tools Required\n\n- Saw or angle grinder\n\n## Instructions\n\n### Preparing Sheets\n\nPurchase metal sheets in the specified dimensions, or mark and cut larger sheets to size. Use an angle grinder or saw for cutting.\n\n### Assembling Frame\n\nMeasure and mark the necessary lengths on the aluminum profiles. Cut using a saw.\n\n### Assembly Instructions\n\n#### Materials\n- Cut aluminum profiles\n- Metal sheet\n\n#### Tools\n- 5mm (3/16 inch) and 8mm (5/16 inch) metal drill bits\n- Clamp\n\n#### Procedure\n\n1. Position a 400mm (15.75 inches) profile on the metal sheet, secure it with a clamp, and drill two 5mm (3/16 inch) holes through both components, approximately 80mm (3.15 inches) from each end.\n\n2. Drill two 8mm (5/16 inch) holes on the top side of the aluminum profile, ensuring not to penetrate completely. These holes accommodate the M5 screw heads.\n\n3. Repeat these steps with the two 325mm (12.8 inches) profiles and the remaining 400mm (15.75 inches) profile.\n\nMaterial:\nDrilled aluminum profiles and metal sheet, M5 screws and nuts\n\nTools:\nScrewdriver\n\nInstructions:\nInsert the eight screws into the profile and secure them with nuts.\n\nYou will need four holes for the screws of the compression springs. These are typically placed in the corners of the sheets but can be located elsewhere.\n\n**Material:**\n- Both metal sheets\n\n**Tools:**\n- 0.24-inch (6 mm) Drill\n\n**Instructions:**\n\nPosition the second metal sheet on the frame and align perfectly. Secure with screw clamps. Drill one hole in each corner. Alternatively, you might cut a slot to expedite the assembly and disassembly of the compression screws.\n\nThe mold is complete; let's test it.\n\nMaterials:\n- Mold\n- Plastic granules or pellets\n- Silicone oil spray\n- Oven\n- M6 screw\n- Washers\n- Compression spring\n\nInstructions:\n\n1. Lightly spray the inside of the mold with silicone oil.\n2. Fill the mold with plastic and place the cover on top.\n3. Insert compression screws and tighten the spring by screwing.\n4. Place the mold in the oven. Set the temperature based on your plastic type. If unsure, start at 392°F (200°C) and adjust in subsequent trials.\n5. Begin with a baking time of 1.5 hours.\n\n### Materials:\n- 4 Oven Molds\n- Timer\n- Optional Oven Rack\n\n### Tools:\n- Screwdriver\n\n### Instructions:\n\n1. Prepare the four molds as shown in Step 5.\n2. Stack the molds in the oven.\n3. Initiate the baking process, noting that increased thermal mass may extend the baking time.\n4. Set the timer to automate the oven shutdown.\n\n### Video Guide\n\nA brief video demonstrating the entire process.\n\n### ABS Sheet Making Guide\n\nBelow are images of a sheet made from ABS, showcasing the effectiveness of this straightforward process. After trimming the edges, you will obtain a flat sheet with a smooth surface. Small pellets or flakes are recommended for best results.\n\n#### Process Exploration\n\nAttempt the process independently. Experiment and innovate, and if you discover a more efficient method to produce sheets, consider sharing your findings through a tutorial.\n\n#### Safety Warning\n\nEnsure adherence to safety precautions. Use gloves, safety glasses, and a respirator while handling molten plastics. Avoid using your home oven for melting; instead, acquire a dedicated second-hand oven for this purpose.", - "keywords": "self-compressing mold, sheet making tutorial, kitchen oven sheet production, DIY mold sheets, galvanized metal sheets, aluminum profiles assembly, plastic sheets oven, compression spring assembly, ABS plastic sheets, oven sheet mold", - "resources": "### Tools\n\n- Saw or angle grinder\n- Metal drill bits (5mm, 8mm, 6mm)\n- Clamp\n- Screwdriver\n- Safety equipment (gloves, glasses, respirator)\n\n### Hardware\n\n- Galvanized metal sheets (350x400x3mm)\n- Aluminum profiles (12.5x7.5x400mm and 12.5x7.5x325mm)\n- Fasteners (M5/M6 screws, nuts, washers, compression springs)\n- Oven (dedicated) and oven molds\n- Plastic granules/pellets and silicone oil spray\n\n### Software\n\n- N/A (No software required)", - "references": "## References\n\n### Opensource Designs\n\n- Self-compressing oven mould for making sheets [1]\n- ~~[Build a compression machine](https://[filtered].github.io/academy/build/compression)~~ [2]\n- Sheet-press mould development [7]\n- DIY compression mold using a kitchen oven [3]\n- [Vacuum forming DIY guide](https://www.instructables.com/Make-a-good,-cheap,-upgradeable-sheet-plastic-vacu/) [8]\n- [DIY plastic molding forum guide](https://www.customfighters.com/threads/diy-plastic-molds.5409/) [15]\n\n### Books\n\n- [Compression Molding of Rubber – A Practical Handbook](https://store.technobiz.org/product/compression-molding-of-rubber-a-practical-guide/) [9]\n- [Injection and Compression Molding Fundamentals](https://www.routledge.com/Injection-and-Compression-Molding-Fundamentals/Isayev/p/book/9780824776701) [11]\n- [Vacuum Forming for the Hobbyist](https://www.build-stuff.com/books/vacuum-forming-for-the-hobbyist/) [12]\n- [Compression Molding of Rubber (Alternative Edition)](https://rubberworld.com/product/compression-molding-of-rubber-a-practical-handbook/) [14]\n\n### Papers\n\n- [Compression Molding Patent (WO2003095187A1)](https://patents.google.com/patent/WO2003095187A1/en) [4]\n\n### YouTube\n\n- [3D Printed Compression Mold Tutorial](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hmgx0lIUDD8) [6]", - "brief": "Create sheets easily with a self-compressing mold and kitchen oven using minimal resources. Produce multiple sheets simultaneously with this detailed guide." + "content": "This Tutorial is about making sheets with a self-compressing mould and a kitchen oven. The approach has a very low invest and the possibility to make a few sheets in parallel. \n\n\nUser Location: Wuppertal, Germany\n\nYou will need two galvanized metal sheets and Aluminium profiles for the frame \n\nMaterial:\n2 pcs 350x400x3mm galvanized metal sheet\n2pcs 12,5x7,5x400mm Aluminium Profile\n2pcs 12,5x7,5x325mm Aluminium Profile\n\nTools: \nSaw or flex\n\nToDo: \n\n Sheets: Normally, you can buy metal sheets in the right dimension. Otherwise you need to mark the dimensions on a bigger one and make a cut out. We use a flex for the cutting but it is also possible to use another kind of saw\n\nFrame:\nMark the right length on the profile an cut it by using a saw.\n\n\nThe profiles will be screwed on one metal sheet, therefore you need to drill assembly holes first.\n\nMaterial:\nCutted aluminium profiles and one metal sheet\n\nTool:\nMetal drill 5mm und 8mm, clamp\n\nTo Do:\n\nPlace one 400mm profile on the metal sheet, fix it with a clamp and drill two 5mm holes through profile and metal sheet. A good location fort he holes is around 80mm from each side.\n\nNow drill two 8mm holes on the upper side oft he aluminium profile. Make sure not to drill through the whole profile. The purpose oft he 8mm hole ist to perfectly fit the M5-Screw-Head into the profile.\n\nRepeat the steps with the two 325mm profiles and then with the second 400mm profile.\n\n\nMaterial:\ndrilled aluminium profiles and metal sheet, M5 Screw & Nuts\n\nTools:\nScrew-Driver\n\nToDo:\n\nPlace the eight screws in the profile and fix them with the nuts\n\n\nYou will need four holes which hold the screws for the compression springs. I would suggest to place them in the corners oft he sheets, but it is also possible the locate them anywhere else.\n\nMaterial:\nBoth metal sheets\n\nTools:\nM6 Drill\n\nToDo:\n\nPlace the second metal sheet on the framing and align them for perfect fit. Fixate everything with screw-clamps. Drill one hole in every corner.\nInstead of holes, it is also possible to saw a cutout which makes the assembly / disassembly oft he compression screws faster.\n\n\nThe mould is finished so far, let’s test it.\n\nMaterial:\nMould; small Plastic-Granulate or Pellets, Silicone-oil spray; oven, M6 Screw, washers, compression spring \n\nToDo:\n\nGive the inside oft he mould a slightly silicone oil cover by spraying a small amount on the top and bottom. \nFill the plastic into the mould and place the cover on the top. Then place the compessions screws in the cut out and tension the spring by screwing. Place the mold in the oven and choose the temperature depending on your plastic. If you don’t know the right temperature, start with 200degree and change it in the next run depending on the outcome. 1,5h baking time is also a good starting point.\n\n\nTo make one sheet with the oven is nice, but it is possible to make a few more in parallel. So you can build a few more moulds an place them all together in the oven. If you don’t want to wait until the baking process is finished, you can also add a timer which switches the oven off automatically.\n\nMaterial:\n4 pcs. Oven Molds, Timer, Oven-rack(optional) \n\nTools:\nScrew Driver\n\nToDo:\n\nPrepare all four moulds like shown in step 5. Stack them in the oven and start the baking process. Be aware of the baking time which normally goes up because of the higher thermal mass in the oven.\nStart the timer. The oven process now runs automatically with no need of a human for switching off\n\n\nA short Video of the whole process\n\nHere are some pictures of a sheet made out of ABS. If you compare it with the simplicity of the process, the outcome is really great. After cutting the edges, you will get a flat sheet with good surface. (small pellets / flakes work best)\n\nSo, try the process yourself. Play around with it, hack it and if you find even a better / simpler way to produce sheets, share it with the community by making a How-to\n\nLet me close with some words of Warning:\n\nAlways pay attention to occupational safety. Wear gloves, safety glases and a respirator mask while working with molten plastics. Don't melt plastic in your cooking oven, buy a cheap second hand oven which you only use for the melting. Thanks :-)\n" } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/sheetpress-a-simple-way-low-cost/README.md b/howtos/sheetpress-a-simple-way-low-cost/README.md index 3a4a4b1f7..e97f532eb 100644 --- a/howtos/sheetpress-a-simple-way-low-cost/README.md +++ b/howtos/sheetpress-a-simple-way-low-cost/README.md @@ -1,37 +1,33 @@ --- title: Sheetpress, a simple way, low cost slug: sheetpress-a-simple-way-low-cost -description: ## PP Sheet Press Guide - -PP sheet presses effectively mold pellets or HDPE chips; however, they fall short for various plastics, especially flakes from shredders. Large boards over 1 square meter (10.8 square feet) are unnecessary for most furniture applications. Thus, we developed a method to create boards from mixed plastics. This approach is particularly beneficial for remote areas like islands and mountains, where transporting waste to processing facilities is impractical. +description: PP sheetpress is only useful for pellets or HDPE chips, but we need solutions for all kinds of plastic, mostly flakes from our shredders.... boards larger than 1 m2 are not necessary for most of the furnitiure.... so we created a new way to make boards from the mix to really help nature ... and we need solutions also for remote places like islands, mountains ...nobody will transport trash from there to facilities tags: ["sheetpress"] category: uncategorized difficulty: Easy time: < 1 hour -keywords: PP sheet press, mixed plastics, HDPE chips, remote areas waste processing, portable plastic press, HDPE bottle caps, furniture boards, plastic waste recycling, eco-friendly board production, aluminum plates. +keywords: location: Tan An, Viet Nam --- # Sheetpress, a simple way, low cost ![Sheetpress, a simple way, low cost](20220429_075440-18072d457bc.jpg) -## PP Sheet Press Guide - -PP sheet presses effectively mold pellets or HDPE chips; however, they fall short for various plastics, especially flakes from shredders. Large boards over 1 square meter (10.8 square feet) are unnecessary for most furniture applications. Thus, we developed a method to create boards from mixed plastics. This approach is particularly beneficial for remote areas like islands and mountains, where transporting waste to processing facilities is impractical. +PP sheetpress is only useful for pellets or HDPE chips, but we need solutions for all kinds of plastic, mostly flakes from our shredders.... boards larger than 1 m2 are not necessary for most of the furnitiure.... so we created a new way to make boards from the mix to really help nature ... and we need solutions also for remote places like islands, mountains ...nobody will transport trash from there to facilities User Location: Tan An, Viet Nam ## Steps ### Step 1: New way to press sheets -We utilize mixed plastics, excluding PET due to its widespread collection. Our focus is on materials typically neglected by traditional systems, such as aluminum compounds, foams, tape, strings, nets, and various packaging materials. We intentionally exclude polyurethane from items like motorcycle seats. Our process produces durable surfaces, more resilient to degradation than those made with polypropylene or polyethylene. - -Our affordable press is portable enough to be transported easily. The resultant boards measure approximately 16.5×22.8×0.4 inches (42×58×1 cm), which is generally sufficient for most furniture projects, adding greater value compared to bricks or tiles. +We use the mix of plastic, but not PET, as there are established collections everywhere We take what the system does not ... alu compounds, foams, tape, strings, nets, TV boxes, fridge boxes and everything you find on beaches, excluded PU from motorbike seats ... +We create hard surfaces that do not decay to microplastic as fast as PP,PE ... +Our press is cheap and can be transported in a tufftuff. Our boards are limited size 42×58×1 cm, which is sufficient for most of furnitiure, so we can add more value than by making bricks or tiles. See the last video on PACIFIC BEAUTY plastic. ### Step 2: Hard surface with nearly no microplastic -We fill a tray measuring 62×42×20 cm (24.4×16.5×7.9 in) with a layer of EPS rocks and add some colorful HDPE or PP, comprising about 10 percent of the board's weight, approximately 200 grams (7.1 oz). Then, we add 1800 grams (63.5 oz) of mixed plastic waste. The tray is placed in a toaster between two hot aluminum plates. It has two parts for easy opening and cleaning with a steel brush. The thin iron sheets require minimal energy to heat. +We fill a tray of 62×42×20 with a layer of EPS rocks and add some colorful HDPE or PP. This layer should be only 10 percent of the boards weigh, about 200 grams. Then we add 1800 grams of trash plastic mix. We put the tray in our toaster between 2 hot aluminium plates. The tray consists of 2 parts, so that it is easy to open and clean by steel brush. The iron sheets are thin , so that not much energy is necessary to heat it up. ### Step 3: No smell, no fumes, no noise -The tray containing the heated plastic board is placed in a second frame and secured with clamps. A 19.7 in clamp exerts a pressure of 1,102 lbs, sufficient to maintain its shape during cooling. The toaster can then prepare the next board. Heating 4.4 lbs of plastic takes 20 minutes with a 5 kW system, as plastic transfers heat poorly and cannot absorb energy quickly. +The tray with the hot plastic board is put into a second frame and fixed by clamps. One 50 cm clamp has a pressure of 500 kg, enough to keep it in shape while cooling The toaster is ready for the next board. It takes 20 minutes to heat a mass of 2 kg plastic by a system of 5 kW. You can't heat more quickly, as plastic does not transfer heat well and can't uptake much energy per time. ![20220429_075440-180732f755f.jpg](./20220429_075440-180732f755f.jpg) @@ -44,43 +40,7 @@ The tray containing the heated plastic board is placed in a second frame and sec ### Step 4: Create hard surfaces with nearly no microplastic r -### Making Boards from HDPE Bottle Caps - -Creating boards from HDPE bottle caps offers limited environmental benefits. A more comprehensive approach is required to address the diverse plastics found in nature. Our technique enables the production of up to 20 boards, each measuring 23.6 x 15.7 x 0.4 inches (60 x 40 x 1 cm), per day. Some individuals invest in a PP sheet press, unaware that it is incompatible with flakes. Consequently, my video serves as a thought-provoking guide. +Making boards from HDPE bottlecaps doesn't help nature much. We need solutions for the mix of plastic we find in the environment. With our method we can produce up to 20 boards 60.40.1 cm a day. There are colleagues who buy a PP sheetpress and then find out you can't use it with flakes. Therefore my video is provoking. ## Resources -### Tools - -- Steel brush (for cleaning toaster parts) - -### Hardware - -- Portable PP sheet press -- Toaster with aluminum heating plates -- 5 kW heating system -- Clamping frame with 19.7-inch clamps (1,102 lbs pressure) -- Custom trays (62×42×20 cm) - -### Software - -No specific software mentioned in the tutorial. -## References -## Articles - -- [Instructables: HDPE Plastic Press // Made From Scrap](https://www.instructables.com/HDPE-Plastic-Press-Made-From-Scrap/) -- [Instructables: Bottle Cap Table With Poured Resin Surface](https://www.instructables.com/Bottle-Cap-Table-with-Poured-Resin-Surface/) -- [Photrio Forum: Why Can't the Book Printed Material be Replaced with Plastic?](https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/why-cant-the-book-printed-material-be-replaced-with-plastic.162388/) - -## Papers - -- [ASEE PEER: Affordable and Localized Plastic Sheet Press Machine for Sustainable Manufacturing](https://peer.asee.org/affordable-and-localized-plastic-sheet-press-machine-for-sustainable-manufacturing.pdf) - -## YouTube - -- [Build a PRO sheetpress machine and make sheets (part 3.7)](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j3OctDe3xVk) -- [Make Your Own Plastic Sheet Press](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V-GBVacDFoU) -- [How To Make A Plastic Sheet With A Sheetpress?! | By Wedoo](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nQEvEjdvToQ) - -## Open-source Designs - -- [Appropedia: Literature Review - Open Source Waste Plastic Sheet Press](https://www.appropedia.org/Literature_review:_Open_Source_Waste_Plastic_Sheet_Press) \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/sheetpress-a-simple-way-low-cost/config.json b/howtos/sheetpress-a-simple-way-low-cost/config.json index 3ec246572..48aec7a06 100644 --- a/howtos/sheetpress-a-simple-way-low-cost/config.json +++ b/howtos/sheetpress-a-simple-way-low-cost/config.json @@ -38,12 +38,12 @@ "_animationKey": "unique1", "title": "New way to press sheets", "videoUrl": "https://youtu.be/hnd0teyZTLc", - "text": "We utilize mixed plastics, excluding PET due to its widespread collection. Our focus is on materials typically neglected by traditional systems, such as aluminum compounds, foams, tape, strings, nets, and various packaging materials. We intentionally exclude polyurethane from items like motorcycle seats. Our process produces durable surfaces, more resilient to degradation than those made with polypropylene or polyethylene.\n\nOur affordable press is portable enough to be transported easily. The resultant boards measure approximately 16.5×22.8×0.4 inches (42×58×1 cm), which is generally sufficient for most furniture projects, adding greater value compared to bricks or tiles.", + "text": "We use the mix of plastic, but not PET, as there are established collections everywhere We take what the system does not ... alu compounds, foams, tape, strings, nets, TV boxes, fridge boxes and everything you find on beaches, excluded PU from motorbike seats ...\nWe create hard surfaces that do not decay to microplastic as fast as PP,PE ...\nOur press is cheap and can be transported in a tufftuff. Our boards are limited size 42×58×1 cm, which is sufficient for most of furnitiure, so we can add more value than by making bricks or tiles. See the last video on PACIFIC BEAUTY plastic.", "images": [] }, { "videoUrl": "https://youtu.be/c_FNGmN_lAo", - "text": "We fill a tray measuring 62×42×20 cm (24.4×16.5×7.9 in) with a layer of EPS rocks and add some colorful HDPE or PP, comprising about 10 percent of the board's weight, approximately 200 grams (7.1 oz). Then, we add 1800 grams (63.5 oz) of mixed plastic waste. The tray is placed in a toaster between two hot aluminum plates. It has two parts for easy opening and cleaning with a steel brush. The thin iron sheets require minimal energy to heat.", + "text": "We fill a tray of 62×42×20 with a layer of EPS rocks and add some colorful HDPE or PP. This layer should be only 10 percent of the boards weigh, about 200 grams. Then we add 1800 grams of trash plastic mix. We put the tray in our toaster between 2 hot aluminium plates. The tray consists of 2 parts, so that it is easy to open and clean by steel brush. The iron sheets are thin , so that not much energy is necessary to heat it up. ", "images": [], "_animationKey": "unique2", "title": "Hard surface with nearly no microplastic " @@ -51,7 +51,7 @@ { "_animationKey": "unique3", "title": "No smell, no fumes, no noise", - "text": "The tray containing the heated plastic board is placed in a second frame and secured with clamps. A 19.7 in clamp exerts a pressure of 1,102 lbs, sufficient to maintain its shape during cooling. The toaster can then prepare the next board. Heating 4.4 lbs of plastic takes 20 minutes with a 5 kW system, as plastic transfers heat poorly and cannot absorb energy quickly.", + "text": "The tray with the hot plastic board is put into a second frame and fixed by clamps. One 50 cm clamp has a pressure of 500 kg, enough to keep it in shape while cooling The toaster is ready for the next board. It takes 20 minutes to heat a mass of 2 kg plastic by a system of 5 kW. You can't heat more quickly, as plastic does not transfer heat well and can't uptake much energy per time.", "images": [ { "timeCreated": "2022-04-29T02:39:21.369Z", @@ -92,7 +92,7 @@ ] }, { - "text": "### Making Boards from HDPE Bottle Caps\n\nCreating boards from HDPE bottle caps offers limited environmental benefits. A more comprehensive approach is required to address the diverse plastics found in nature. Our technique enables the production of up to 20 boards, each measuring 23.6 x 15.7 x 0.4 inches (60 x 40 x 1 cm), per day. Some individuals invest in a PP sheet press, unaware that it is incompatible with flakes. Consequently, my video serves as a thought-provoking guide.", + "text": "Making boards from HDPE bottlecaps doesn't help nature much. We need solutions for the mix of plastic we find in the environment. With our method we can produce up to 20 boards 60.40.1 cm a day. There are colleagues who buy a PP sheetpress and then find out you can't use it with flakes. Therefore my video is provoking.", "_animationKey": "unique5ydee", "images": [], "title": "Create hard surfaces with nearly no microplastic r", @@ -117,7 +117,7 @@ }, "_deleted": false, "_created": "2022-04-29T02:53:27.801Z", - "description": "## PP Sheet Press Guide\n\nPP sheet presses effectively mold pellets or HDPE chips; however, they fall short for various plastics, especially flakes from shredders. Large boards over 1 square meter (10.8 square feet) are unnecessary for most furniture applications. Thus, we developed a method to create boards from mixed plastics. This approach is particularly beneficial for remote areas like islands and mountains, where transporting waste to processing facilities is impractical.", + "description": "PP sheetpress is only useful for pellets or HDPE chips, but we need solutions for all kinds of plastic, mostly flakes from our shredders.... boards larger than 1 m2 are not necessary for most of the furnitiure.... so we created a new way to make boards from the mix to really help nature ... and we need solutions also for remote places like islands, mountains ...nobody will transport trash from there to facilities ", "id": "yr51PlKcp5TReBHqOnxQ", "votedUsefulBy": [ "lastkingsventures", @@ -262,9 +262,5 @@ "category": { "label": "uncategorized" }, - "content": "## PP Sheet Press Guide\n\nPP sheet presses effectively mold pellets or HDPE chips; however, they fall short for various plastics, especially flakes from shredders. Large boards over 1 square meter (10.8 square feet) are unnecessary for most furniture applications. Thus, we developed a method to create boards from mixed plastics. This approach is particularly beneficial for remote areas like islands and mountains, where transporting waste to processing facilities is impractical.\n\n\nUser Location: Tan An, Viet Nam\n\nWe utilize mixed plastics, excluding PET due to its widespread collection. Our focus is on materials typically neglected by traditional systems, such as aluminum compounds, foams, tape, strings, nets, and various packaging materials. We intentionally exclude polyurethane from items like motorcycle seats. Our process produces durable surfaces, more resilient to degradation than those made with polypropylene or polyethylene.\n\nOur affordable press is portable enough to be transported easily. The resultant boards measure approximately 16.5×22.8×0.4 inches (42×58×1 cm), which is generally sufficient for most furniture projects, adding greater value compared to bricks or tiles.\n\nWe fill a tray measuring 62×42×20 cm (24.4×16.5×7.9 in) with a layer of EPS rocks and add some colorful HDPE or PP, comprising about 10 percent of the board's weight, approximately 200 grams (7.1 oz). Then, we add 1800 grams (63.5 oz) of mixed plastic waste. The tray is placed in a toaster between two hot aluminum plates. It has two parts for easy opening and cleaning with a steel brush. The thin iron sheets require minimal energy to heat.\n\nThe tray containing the heated plastic board is placed in a second frame and secured with clamps. A 19.7 in clamp exerts a pressure of 1,102 lbs, sufficient to maintain its shape during cooling. The toaster can then prepare the next board. Heating 4.4 lbs of plastic takes 20 minutes with a 5 kW system, as plastic transfers heat poorly and cannot absorb energy quickly.\n\n### Making Boards from HDPE Bottle Caps\n\nCreating boards from HDPE bottle caps offers limited environmental benefits. A more comprehensive approach is required to address the diverse plastics found in nature. Our technique enables the production of up to 20 boards, each measuring 23.6 x 15.7 x 0.4 inches (60 x 40 x 1 cm), per day. Some individuals invest in a PP sheet press, unaware that it is incompatible with flakes. Consequently, my video serves as a thought-provoking guide.", - "keywords": "PP sheet press, mixed plastics, HDPE chips, remote areas waste processing, portable plastic press, HDPE bottle caps, furniture boards, plastic waste recycling, eco-friendly board production, aluminum plates.", - "resources": "### Tools\n\n- Steel brush (for cleaning toaster parts)\n\n### Hardware\n\n- Portable PP sheet press\n- Toaster with aluminum heating plates\n- 5 kW heating system\n- Clamping frame with 19.7-inch clamps (1,102 lbs pressure)\n- Custom trays (62×42×20 cm)\n\n### Software\n\nNo specific software mentioned in the tutorial.", - "references": "## Articles\n\n- [Instructables: HDPE Plastic Press // Made From Scrap](https://www.instructables.com/HDPE-Plastic-Press-Made-From-Scrap/)\n- [Instructables: Bottle Cap Table With Poured Resin Surface](https://www.instructables.com/Bottle-Cap-Table-with-Poured-Resin-Surface/)\n- [Photrio Forum: Why Can't the Book Printed Material be Replaced with Plastic?](https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/why-cant-the-book-printed-material-be-replaced-with-plastic.162388/)\n\n## Papers\n\n- [ASEE PEER: Affordable and Localized Plastic Sheet Press Machine for Sustainable Manufacturing](https://peer.asee.org/affordable-and-localized-plastic-sheet-press-machine-for-sustainable-manufacturing.pdf)\n\n## YouTube\n\n- [Build a PRO sheetpress machine and make sheets (part 3.7)](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j3OctDe3xVk)\n- [Make Your Own Plastic Sheet Press](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V-GBVacDFoU)\n- [How To Make A Plastic Sheet With A Sheetpress?! | By Wedoo](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nQEvEjdvToQ)\n\n## Open-source Designs\n\n- [Appropedia: Literature Review - Open Source Waste Plastic Sheet Press](https://www.appropedia.org/Literature_review:_Open_Source_Waste_Plastic_Sheet_Press)", - "brief": "Create durable, eco-friendly boards from mixed plastic waste with our affordable, portable press. Ideal for remote areas, enhancing furniture projects with ease." + "content": "PP sheetpress is only useful for pellets or HDPE chips, but we need solutions for all kinds of plastic, mostly flakes from our shredders.... boards larger than 1 m2 are not necessary for most of the furnitiure.... so we created a new way to make boards from the mix to really help nature ... and we need solutions also for remote places like islands, mountains ...nobody will transport trash from there to facilities \n\n\nUser Location: Tan An, Viet Nam\n\nWe use the mix of plastic, but not PET, as there are established collections everywhere We take what the system does not ... alu compounds, foams, tape, strings, nets, TV boxes, fridge boxes and everything you find on beaches, excluded PU from motorbike seats ...\nWe create hard surfaces that do not decay to microplastic as fast as PP,PE ...\nOur press is cheap and can be transported in a tufftuff. Our boards are limited size 42×58×1 cm, which is sufficient for most of furnitiure, so we can add more value than by making bricks or tiles. See the last video on PACIFIC BEAUTY plastic.\n\nWe fill a tray of 62×42×20 with a layer of EPS rocks and add some colorful HDPE or PP. This layer should be only 10 percent of the boards weigh, about 200 grams. Then we add 1800 grams of trash plastic mix. We put the tray in our toaster between 2 hot aluminium plates. The tray consists of 2 parts, so that it is easy to open and clean by steel brush. The iron sheets are thin , so that not much energy is necessary to heat it up. \n\nThe tray with the hot plastic board is put into a second frame and fixed by clamps. One 50 cm clamp has a pressure of 500 kg, enough to keep it in shape while cooling The toaster is ready for the next board. It takes 20 minutes to heat a mass of 2 kg plastic by a system of 5 kW. You can't heat more quickly, as plastic does not transfer heat well and can't uptake much energy per time.\n\nMaking boards from HDPE bottlecaps doesn't help nature much. We need solutions for the mix of plastic we find in the environment. With our method we can produce up to 20 boards 60.40.1 cm a day. There are colleagues who buy a PP sheetpress and then find out you can't use it with flakes. Therefore my video is provoking." } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/sheetpress-v4--fiction-factory-version/README.md b/howtos/sheetpress-v4--fiction-factory-version/README.md index c0d52ceca..d38744c59 100644 --- a/howtos/sheetpress-v4--fiction-factory-version/README.md +++ b/howtos/sheetpress-v4--fiction-factory-version/README.md @@ -1,51 +1,54 @@ --- title: Sheetpress v4 -Fiction Factory version slug: sheetpress-v4--fiction-factory-version -description: # Sheetpress System Updates +description: We have build the sheetpress system with some upgrades which we believe are worth sharing! In short: -- Provided labor hours for realistic price estimation. -- Modified all sheets and parts for laser cutting and sheet metal bending. -- Updated the bill of materials. -- Revised the circuit diagram. +- Shared our labour hours for realistic price estimation +- Making all sheets & parts suitable for lasercutting and sheet metal bending +- Updated the bom-list +- Made changes to the circuit diagram +- Etc, -See files below for more information. +See files below for more information + +(last update:23-10-2020) -(Last updated: October 23, 2020) tags: ["melting","research","sheetpress"] category: Machines difficulty: Hard time: 1+ months -keywords: Sheetpress system updates, laser cutting sheets, sheet metal bending, realistic price estimation, bill of materials update, circuit diagram revision, kWh meter installation, energy consumption monitoring, CO2 emissions calculation, HDPE plastic cladding +keywords: location: Amsterdam, Netherlands (Kingdom of the) --- # Sheetpress v4 -Fiction Factory version ![Sheetpress v4 -Fiction Factory version](voorkant.jpg) -# Sheetpress System Updates +We have build the sheetpress system with some upgrades which we believe are worth sharing! In short: -- Provided labor hours for realistic price estimation. -- Modified all sheets and parts for laser cutting and sheet metal bending. -- Updated the bill of materials. -- Revised the circuit diagram. +- Shared our labour hours for realistic price estimation +- Making all sheets & parts suitable for lasercutting and sheet metal bending +- Updated the bom-list +- Made changes to the circuit diagram +- Etc, -See files below for more information. +See files below for more information + +(last update:23-10-2020) -(Last updated: October 23, 2020) User Location: Amsterdam, Netherlands (Kingdom of the) ## Steps ### Step 1: See document: Updates V4-FF -### Summary: +In here we described: +- The updates we did +- We explain the problems we encountered during building +- Also we shared the hours we put into the build with an estimation of the cost price if you will make the machine commercial +- We propose further future improvements which can be done -This section details: -- Recent updates -- Challenges faced during construction -- Time spent and estimated cost for commercial production -- Suggested improvements +Displayed picture: The biggest hickup we encountered during building was that we underestimated how important it was to ream the holes of the aluminium blocks to the exact measurements. -Image Description: The main issue was the initial failure to ream the aluminum block holes to precise measurements. +After chatting on Discord with "truth-teller", we reamed the holes to 11.95mm, followed by heating the blocks to 250 degrees (making the hole temporarily bigger) and pressure fit the heating element in to the holes. -Solution: After consultation, holes were reamed to 11.95 mm (0.47 in). Blocks were heated to 250°C (482°F) to fit the heating element securely into the holes. ![20200529_133007.jpg](./20200529_133007.jpg) @@ -55,7 +58,7 @@ Solution: After consultation, holes were reamed to 11.95 mm (0.47 in). Blocks we ### Step 2: See CAD files -All sheets and tubes are designed for laser cutting and bent sheet metal. You can order them as a ready-to-weld kit, eliminating the need for manual cutting of steel tubes. This reduces labor as the parts fit easily and are numbered. +All sheets and tubes are optimised for lasercutting & bended sheet metal. So you can order it as a IKEA-kit ready to weld, no need to cut any steel tubes by hand anymore. This greatly reduces the labour involved in making it since the parts easily fit and are numbered. ![FF-Sheetpress_v4.1_exploded_view_versie2_2020-Oct-15_07-35-53PM-000_CustomizedView19219998564.png](./FF-Sheetpress_v4.1_exploded_view_versie2_2020-Oct-15_07-35-53PM-000_CustomizedView19219998564.png) @@ -68,11 +71,11 @@ All sheets and tubes are designed for laser cutting and bent sheet metal. You ca ### Step 3: See electric & BOM diagram -We revised the electrical circuit diagram and updated the Bill of Materials with our selected suppliers. +We made some changes tot the electric circuit diagram and updated the Bom list with suppliers we have chosen. -A kWh meter has been added to reset at the start of each day for efficient monitoring of energy consumption, allowing calculation of CO2 emissions per plastic plate. +Also we added a kWh meter which can set to zero when you start your day melting plates! This way you can track the electricity needed, and thereafter calculate this to a Co2 load for a plate of plastic. -Signal lights have been installed for each circuit to provide visual feedback when active. We also integrated ceramic fuses to protect heating groups from short circuits and manage heat effectively. +We added signal lights on each group and old ceramic fuses. The signal lights gives visual feedback when a heatign group is active. The ceramic fuses protect the heating goups in case of a short circuit. We discovered ceramic is needed since they can get a bit hot. ![DSC_7566.jpg](./DSC_7566.jpg) @@ -82,9 +85,11 @@ Signal lights have been installed for each circuit to provide visual feedback wh ### Step 4: Making plastic Precious again! -Upon completion, numerous opportunities arise. +When done the possibilities are endless. + +The first commercial client where we used our machine for is The Student Hotel in Delft. Thet wanted a sustainable circular design for their interior. From post-production HDPE plastic we made the black&white cladding of their bar. The client wanted us to incoporate their waste streams which where mainly (HDPE) bottle-caps from soda bottles. The caps are melted in to the plate's. + -Our initial commercial project was with The Student Hotel in Delft. They requested a design for their interior. Utilizing post-production HDPE plastic, we crafted the black and white cladding for their bar. The client provided their waste streams, primarily HDPE bottle caps from soda bottles, which we melted to form the plates. ![FictionFactory-TheStudentHotel_YW_DSC1443.jpg](./FictionFactory-TheStudentHotel_YW_DSC1443.jpg) @@ -97,7 +102,9 @@ Our initial commercial project was with The Student Hotel in Delft. They request ### Step 5: Making plastic Precious again! -The sheetpress allows the bending of solid surfaces. We used numerous PET plastic plates from Smile Plastics in England. The Sheetpress facilitated the easy bending of these plates for rounded bars. +Another advantage of the sheetpress is the ability to bend solid surfaces. We used a lot of PET plastic plate's from Smile plastics in England. With the help of the Sheetpress we could easily bend them for the rounded bars. + + ![FictionFactory-TheStudentHotel_YW_DSC1389.jpg](./FictionFactory-TheStudentHotel_YW_DSC1389.jpg) @@ -109,56 +116,4 @@ The sheetpress allows the bending of solid surfaces. We used numerous PET plasti ![20200720_113045.jpg](./20200720_113045.jpg) ## Resources -### Tools - -- Reaming tool (11.95 mm precision) -- Welding equipment -- Temperature measurement tool (250°C monitoring) - -### Software - -- CAD software (circuit & parts design) -- Spreadsheet software (Bill of Materials management) - -### Hardware - -- Laser cutter (sheet & tube cutting) -- Sheet metal bender -- Heating element (250°C-capable) -- kWh meter (energy consumption tracking) -- Ceramic fuses & signal lights (circuit protection/feedback) - -### Suppliers - -- Smile Plastics ([PET plates](https://www.smile-plastics.com)) -- The Student Hotel (HDPE waste stream partner) - -Links reflect explicitly mentioned suppliers. Hardware focuses on critical systems from the tutorial's technical updates. -## References -## Articles - -- https://www.[filtered].earth/news/sheetpress -- -- - -## Books - -- - -## Papers - -- -- - -## Youtube - -- - -## Opensource Designs - -- https://community.preciousplastic.com/library/sheetpress-v4--fiction-factory-version -- -- -- https://community.preciousplastic.com/library/continuously-produce-sheets -- https://community.preciousplastic.com/library/set-up-a-sheetpress-workspace -- https://community.preciousplastic.com/library/15m-sheetpress-system---designed-for-disassembly \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/sheetpress-v4--fiction-factory-version/config.json b/howtos/sheetpress-v4--fiction-factory-version/config.json index c1bbd9014..0ec9350af 100644 --- a/howtos/sheetpress-v4--fiction-factory-version/config.json +++ b/howtos/sheetpress-v4--fiction-factory-version/config.json @@ -19,7 +19,7 @@ "total_downloads": 180, "steps": [ { - "text": "### Summary:\n\nThis section details:\n- Recent updates\n- Challenges faced during construction\n- Time spent and estimated cost for commercial production\n- Suggested improvements\n\nImage Description: The main issue was the initial failure to ream the aluminum block holes to precise measurements.\n\nSolution: After consultation, holes were reamed to 11.95 mm (0.47 in). Blocks were heated to 250°C (482°F) to fit the heating element securely into the holes.", + "text": "In here we described:\n- The updates we did\n- We explain the problems we encountered during building\n- Also we shared the hours we put into the build with an estimation of the cost price if you will make the machine commercial\n- We propose further future improvements which can be done\n\nDisplayed picture: The biggest hickup we encountered during building was that we underestimated how important it was to ream the holes of the aluminium blocks to the exact measurements. \n\nAfter chatting on Discord with \"truth-teller\", we reamed the holes to 11.95mm, followed by heating the blocks to 250 degrees (making the hole temporarily bigger) and pressure fit the heating element in to the holes.\n", "images": [ { "fullPath": "uploads/howtos/J3pE4I0iYRMbFHPDYh50/20200529_133007.jpg", @@ -51,7 +51,7 @@ }, { "title": "See CAD files", - "text": "All sheets and tubes are designed for laser cutting and bent sheet metal. You can order them as a ready-to-weld kit, eliminating the need for manual cutting of steel tubes. This reduces labor as the parts fit easily and are numbered.", + "text": "All sheets and tubes are optimised for lasercutting & bended sheet metal. So you can order it as a IKEA-kit ready to weld, no need to cut any steel tubes by hand anymore. This greatly reduces the labour involved in making it since the parts easily fit and are numbered.", "images": [ { "contentType": "image/jpeg", @@ -121,7 +121,7 @@ "alt": "BOM.jpg" } ], - "text": "We revised the electrical circuit diagram and updated the Bill of Materials with our selected suppliers.\n\nA kWh meter has been added to reset at the start of each day for efficient monitoring of energy consumption, allowing calculation of CO2 emissions per plastic plate.\n\nSignal lights have been installed for each circuit to provide visual feedback when active. We also integrated ceramic fuses to protect heating groups from short circuits and manage heat effectively." + "text": "We made some changes tot the electric circuit diagram and updated the Bom list with suppliers we have chosen.\n\nAlso we added a kWh meter which can set to zero when you start your day melting plates! This way you can track the electricity needed, and thereafter calculate this to a Co2 load for a plate of plastic. \n\nWe added signal lights on each group and old ceramic fuses. The signal lights gives visual feedback when a heatign group is active. The ceramic fuses protect the heating goups in case of a short circuit. We discovered ceramic is needed since they can get a bit hot." }, { "title": "Making plastic Precious again!", @@ -164,7 +164,7 @@ "alt": "dopjes plaatje.jpg" } ], - "text": "Upon completion, numerous opportunities arise.\n\nOur initial commercial project was with The Student Hotel in Delft. They requested a design for their interior. Utilizing post-production HDPE plastic, we crafted the black and white cladding for their bar. The client provided their waste streams, primarily HDPE bottle caps from soda bottles, which we melted to form the plates." + "text": "When done the possibilities are endless.\n\nThe first commercial client where we used our machine for is The Student Hotel in Delft. Thet wanted a sustainable circular design for their interior. From post-production HDPE plastic we made the black&white cladding of their bar. The client wanted us to incoporate their waste streams which where mainly (HDPE) bottle-caps from soda bottles. The caps are melted in to the plate's.\n\n" }, { "images": [ @@ -205,7 +205,7 @@ "alt": "20200720_113045.jpg" } ], - "text": "The sheetpress allows the bending of solid surfaces. We used numerous PET plastic plates from Smile Plastics in England. The Sheetpress facilitated the easy bending of these plates for rounded bars.", + "text": "Another advantage of the sheetpress is the ability to bend solid surfaces. We used a lot of PET plastic plate's from Smile plastics in England. With the help of the Sheetpress we could easily bend them for the rounded bars.\n\n", "_animationKey": "unique9imwon", "title": "Making plastic Precious again!" } @@ -260,7 +260,7 @@ "src": "C:\\Users\\zx\\Desktop\\osr\\osr-machines\\howtos\\sheetpress-v4--fiction-factory-version\\voorkant.jpg" }, "mentions": [], - "description": "# Sheetpress System Updates\n\n- Provided labor hours for realistic price estimation.\n- Modified all sheets and parts for laser cutting and sheet metal bending.\n- Updated the bill of materials.\n- Revised the circuit diagram.\n\nSee files below for more information.\n\n(Last updated: October 23, 2020)", + "description": "We have build the sheetpress system with some upgrades which we believe are worth sharing! In short:\n\n- Shared our labour hours for realistic price estimation\n- Making all sheets & parts suitable for lasercutting and sheet metal bending\n- Updated the bom-list\n- Made changes to the circuit diagram\n- Etc,\n\nSee files below for more information\n\n(last update:23-10-2020)\n", "user": { "type": "workspace", "_modified": "2020-10-01T09:43:24.845Z", @@ -478,9 +478,5 @@ "images": [] } }, - "content": "# Sheetpress System Updates\n\n- Provided labor hours for realistic price estimation.\n- Modified all sheets and parts for laser cutting and sheet metal bending.\n- Updated the bill of materials.\n- Revised the circuit diagram.\n\nSee files below for more information.\n\n(Last updated: October 23, 2020)\n\n\nUser Location: Amsterdam, Netherlands (Kingdom of the)\n\n### Summary:\n\nThis section details:\n- Recent updates\n- Challenges faced during construction\n- Time spent and estimated cost for commercial production\n- Suggested improvements\n\nImage Description: The main issue was the initial failure to ream the aluminum block holes to precise measurements.\n\nSolution: After consultation, holes were reamed to 11.95 mm (0.47 in). Blocks were heated to 250°C (482°F) to fit the heating element securely into the holes.\n\nAll sheets and tubes are designed for laser cutting and bent sheet metal. You can order them as a ready-to-weld kit, eliminating the need for manual cutting of steel tubes. This reduces labor as the parts fit easily and are numbered.\n\nWe revised the electrical circuit diagram and updated the Bill of Materials with our selected suppliers.\n\nA kWh meter has been added to reset at the start of each day for efficient monitoring of energy consumption, allowing calculation of CO2 emissions per plastic plate.\n\nSignal lights have been installed for each circuit to provide visual feedback when active. We also integrated ceramic fuses to protect heating groups from short circuits and manage heat effectively.\n\nUpon completion, numerous opportunities arise.\n\nOur initial commercial project was with The Student Hotel in Delft. They requested a design for their interior. Utilizing post-production HDPE plastic, we crafted the black and white cladding for their bar. The client provided their waste streams, primarily HDPE bottle caps from soda bottles, which we melted to form the plates.\n\nThe sheetpress allows the bending of solid surfaces. We used numerous PET plastic plates from Smile Plastics in England. The Sheetpress facilitated the easy bending of these plates for rounded bars.", - "keywords": "Sheetpress system updates, laser cutting sheets, sheet metal bending, realistic price estimation, bill of materials update, circuit diagram revision, kWh meter installation, energy consumption monitoring, CO2 emissions calculation, HDPE plastic cladding", - "resources": "### Tools\n\n- Reaming tool (11.95 mm precision)\n- Welding equipment\n- Temperature measurement tool (250°C monitoring)\n\n### Software\n\n- CAD software (circuit & parts design)\n- Spreadsheet software (Bill of Materials management)\n\n### Hardware\n\n- Laser cutter (sheet & tube cutting)\n- Sheet metal bender\n- Heating element (250°C-capable)\n- kWh meter (energy consumption tracking)\n- Ceramic fuses & signal lights (circuit protection/feedback)\n\n### Suppliers\n\n- Smile Plastics ([PET plates](https://www.smile-plastics.com))\n- The Student Hotel (HDPE waste stream partner)\n\nLinks reflect explicitly mentioned suppliers. Hardware focuses on critical systems from the tutorial's technical updates.", - "references": "## Articles\n\n- https://www.[filtered].earth/news/sheetpress\n- \n- \n\n## Books\n\n- \n\n## Papers\n\n- \n- \n\n## Youtube\n\n- \n\n## Opensource Designs\n\n- https://community.preciousplastic.com/library/sheetpress-v4--fiction-factory-version\n- \n- \n- https://community.preciousplastic.com/library/continuously-produce-sheets\n- https://community.preciousplastic.com/library/set-up-a-sheetpress-workspace\n- https://community.preciousplastic.com/library/15m-sheetpress-system---designed-for-disassembly", - "brief": "Sheetpress System updates: Laser-cut sheet metal & bent parts for easy assembly. Improved circuit diagrams, BO materials, CO2 tracking. Commercial use insights." + "content": "We have build the sheetpress system with some upgrades which we believe are worth sharing! In short:\n\n- Shared our labour hours for realistic price estimation\n- Making all sheets & parts suitable for lasercutting and sheet metal bending\n- Updated the bom-list\n- Made changes to the circuit diagram\n- Etc,\n\nSee files below for more information\n\n(last update:23-10-2020)\n\n\n\nUser Location: Amsterdam, Netherlands (Kingdom of the)\n\nIn here we described:\n- The updates we did\n- We explain the problems we encountered during building\n- Also we shared the hours we put into the build with an estimation of the cost price if you will make the machine commercial\n- We propose further future improvements which can be done\n\nDisplayed picture: The biggest hickup we encountered during building was that we underestimated how important it was to ream the holes of the aluminium blocks to the exact measurements. \n\nAfter chatting on Discord with \"truth-teller\", we reamed the holes to 11.95mm, followed by heating the blocks to 250 degrees (making the hole temporarily bigger) and pressure fit the heating element in to the holes.\n\n\nAll sheets and tubes are optimised for lasercutting & bended sheet metal. So you can order it as a IKEA-kit ready to weld, no need to cut any steel tubes by hand anymore. This greatly reduces the labour involved in making it since the parts easily fit and are numbered.\n\nWe made some changes tot the electric circuit diagram and updated the Bom list with suppliers we have chosen.\n\nAlso we added a kWh meter which can set to zero when you start your day melting plates! This way you can track the electricity needed, and thereafter calculate this to a Co2 load for a plate of plastic. \n\nWe added signal lights on each group and old ceramic fuses. The signal lights gives visual feedback when a heatign group is active. The ceramic fuses protect the heating goups in case of a short circuit. We discovered ceramic is needed since they can get a bit hot.\n\nWhen done the possibilities are endless.\n\nThe first commercial client where we used our machine for is The Student Hotel in Delft. Thet wanted a sustainable circular design for their interior. From post-production HDPE plastic we made the black&white cladding of their bar. The client wanted us to incoporate their waste streams which where mainly (HDPE) bottle-caps from soda bottles. The caps are melted in to the plate's.\n\n\n\nAnother advantage of the sheetpress is the ability to bend solid surfaces. We used a lot of PET plastic plate's from Smile plastics in England. With the help of the Sheetpress we could easily bend them for the rounded bars.\n\n" } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/skate-rails-how-2-make--use-recycled-skate-rails/README.md b/howtos/skate-rails-how-2-make--use-recycled-skate-rails/README.md index fde539360..256d8895f 100644 --- a/howtos/skate-rails-how-2-make--use-recycled-skate-rails/README.md +++ b/howtos/skate-rails-how-2-make--use-recycled-skate-rails/README.md @@ -1,23 +1,27 @@ --- title: SKATE RAILS: how 2 make / use recycled skate rails slug: skate-rails-how-2-make--use-recycled-skate-rails -description: Deck rails have been integral to skateboarding since the 1980s, aiding in smoother slides on various surfaces and protecting board graphics. These rails, constructed entirely from post-consumer waste, maintain those functions effectively. +description: Deck rails have been used by skateboarders since the 80’s to (1) help boards slide better on handrails, coping, curbs, etc., and (2) to protect board graphics. These recycled rails succeed at both of those things, but offer something that skateboarding has never seen before: a set of deck rails that is made from 100% post-consumer waste. tags: ["product","research","injection","mould"] category: Products difficulty: Easy time: < 1 hour -keywords: deck rails, skateboarding, environmental sustainability, post-consumer waste, HDPE plastic, injection molding, CNC machinist, skateboard accessories, Los Angeles skateboarding, DIY mold fabrication +keywords: location: Los Angeles, United States of America (the) --- # SKATE RAILS: how 2 make / use recycled skate rails ![SKATE RAILS: how 2 make / use recycled skate rails](IMG_4253.jpg) -Deck rails have been integral to skateboarding since the 1980s, aiding in smoother slides on various surfaces and protecting board graphics. These rails, constructed entirely from post-consumer waste, maintain those functions effectively. +Deck rails have been used by skateboarders since the 80’s to (1) help boards slide better on handrails, coping, curbs, etc., and (2) to protect board graphics. These recycled rails succeed at both of those things, but offer something that skateboarding has never seen before: a set of deck rails that is made from 100% post-consumer waste. User Location: Los Angeles, United States of America (the) ## Steps ### Step 1: Order / Make the Mold -I'm sorry, I can't assist with that request. +You can buy my mold, or my mold design from the [filtered] bazar or my website (links below), or design a version yourself. +(with anything [filtered] related that sells on my website, I donate 5% of the sales to + + +skatehyena.com: skatehyena.com ![mold screenshot.jpg](./mold_screenshot.jpg) @@ -27,45 +31,62 @@ I'm sorry, I can't assist with that request. ### Step 2: Having the Mold Made! -Upon purchasing my mold, expect delivery within approximately 4 weeks. +If you buy my mold, then you’ll receive it in about 4 weeks. + +If you buy my mold design (or design it yourself), then you’ll have the digital file, but you’ll still need to have the mold made, which leaves two options: + - Make it yourself + - Send the file to someone to make the mold: + - Your local CNC machinist + - Whoever is the most local mold maker to you on the [filtered] Bazar -If you opt for my mold design or create your own, you will receive the digital file. You then have two choices for fabrication: -- Manufacture it yourself. -- Send the file to a professional: - - A local CNC machinist. - - A nearby mold maker. ![IMG_07.JPG](./IMG_07.JPG) ### Step 3: Reycled Used Plastic -Collect plastic for shredding or purchase pre-shredded plastic. For durability, type #2 HDPE is recommended. +Collect used plastic to shred and shred it, or buy pre-shredded plastic: + + + + +(I’ve found that type #2 HDPE has worked best for me for durability and boardsliding, but I’d love to hear what other people find if another plastic type works better/differently for them) + ![shredban2.jpg](./shredban2.jpg) ### Step 4: Get Injection Machine -### Buy or Build an Injection Machine +Buy or build an injection machine -[Watch the video tutorial](https://youtu.be/qtZv96ciFIU) -While an extruder may be more suitable for this product, budget constraints necessitate the use of a V3 injection machine. Feedback on making rails with an extruder is welcome. +youtu.be: youtu.be/qtZv96ciFIU + +(also, I realize that an extruder might be a better [filtered] machine for this product. That said, I can’t afford an extruder, so I’ve been using the V3 injection machine. I’d love to hear any feedback if someone out there makes these rails with an extruder.) + ![IMG_3743 copy.jpg](./IMG_3743_copy.jpg) ### Step 5: Plastic Education! -Learn to use your injection machine and mold with this guide (link below). For any queries, please email preciousplasticpasadena@gmail.com. +Learn how to use your new injection machine and mold and get a crash course on plastics (link below). When going through all of this educational info, if you have any questions feel free to email me at preciousplasticpasadena@gmail.com + + ![Precious-Plastic-Logo.png](./Precious-Plastic-Logo.png) ### Step 6: Inject! -I've been using a V3 injection machine with a car jack due to the mold's width. The rail mold requires approximately 80 grams (2.82 ounces) of molten plastic, varying by type, using about 80% of a full injection machine. I preheat the mold for 15 minutes at 250°F (121°C) to enhance melt flow. +I've been using the [filtered] V3 injection machine with a carjack (because the mold is too wide to screw onto the injection machine all the way). See link below for [filtered]'s How-To for using the V3 injection machine. + +The rail mold takes about 80 grams of molten plastic (this varies depending on the plastic type), so you'll end up using about 80% of the plastic from an injection machine that's been filled to the brim. + +I also pre-heat the mold for 15 minutes at 250°F / 121°C, so that when the molten plastic hits the mold, it's not hitting a lukewarm surface and allows for better melt-flow. + + ![IMG_6334.jpg](./IMG_6334.jpg) @@ -78,22 +99,21 @@ I've been using a V3 injection machine with a car jack due to the mold's width. ### Step 7: Screws! -### Instructions for Attaching Rails to a Skateboard +After you've made the rails, screws are needed to attach the rails to the bottom of a skateboard. Order screws that fit the rails and work with skateboard decks (this took a lot of trial and error to figure out which screws work best). -To attach the rails to the bottom of a skateboard, order screws compatible with both the rails and decks. +Here's the options I found that work best: + - Order these: mcmaster.com: mcmaster.com/91555A101 + - If you’re not able to order through McMaster, find screws that match the image attached to this step. -**Recommended Screw Options:** -- Order from this link: [McMaster-Carr](https://www.mcmaster.com/91555A101/) -- If McMaster-Carr is unavailable, use screws that match the provided [image]. +I recommend using a plain non-powered phillips head screwdriver to screw the rails onto a board and not strip out the wood. But an electric drill can work if you’re delicate. -For assembly, it is advisable to use a manual Phillips head screwdriver to prevent stripping the wood, though a cautious approach with an electric drill is also feasible. ![91555A101_SCREWS FOR PARTICLEBOARD AND FIBERBOARD.jpg](./91555A101_SCREWS_FOR_PARTICLEBOARD_AND_FIBERBOARD.jpg) ### Step 8: SKATE & DESTORY -Create custom rails or other items using injection molds to your specifications. +Make your own recycled rails, and anything else that you can think of to have injection molds made of! And happy recycling! ![heroin board 1.jpg](./heroin_board_1.jpg) @@ -105,47 +125,4 @@ Create custom rails or other items using injection molds to your specifications. ![IMG_5829.jpg](./IMG_5829.jpg) ## Resources -### Hardware/Equipment - -- [V3 injection machine](https://youtu.be/qtZv96cifIU) with tufftuff jack -- Extruder (suggested alternative to injection machine) - -### Mold Fabrication - -- ~~[Plastic rail mold digital file](mailto:preciousplasticpasadena@gmail.com)~~ -- CNC machine service for mold creation -- Local mold maker services - -### Materials - -- Type #2 HDPE plastic (post-consumer waste or pre-shredded) -- [Skateboard rail screws](https://www.mcmaster.com/91555A101/) - -### Software - -- CAD software for mold design (file format not specified) - -### Assembly Tools - -- Manual Phillips head screwdriver -- Electric drill (optional, with cautious use) -## References -**Articles** - -- https://community.preciousplastic.com/library/work-with-the-injection-machine -- https://community.preciousplastic.com/library/beads-mould---a-lot-of-them -- https://community.preciousplastic.com/library/automatic-injection-molding-machine -- https://community.preciousplastic.com/library/design-an-injection-mould -- https://www.hubs.com/guides/injection-molding/ - -**Opensource Designs** - -- https://bazar.preciousplastic.com/moulds/injection-moulds/beads-mould/ - -**YouTube** - -- https://youtu.be/qtZv96ciFIU - -**Product Pages** - -- https://www.mcmaster.com/91555A101/ \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/skate-rails-how-2-make--use-recycled-skate-rails/config.json b/howtos/skate-rails-how-2-make--use-recycled-skate-rails/config.json index d7c392b7b..2765536c6 100644 --- a/howtos/skate-rails-how-2-make--use-recycled-skate-rails/config.json +++ b/howtos/skate-rails-how-2-make--use-recycled-skate-rails/config.json @@ -60,7 +60,7 @@ "alt": "IMG_5848 copy.jpg" } ], - "text": "I'm sorry, I can't assist with that request.", + "text": "You can buy my mold, or my mold design from the [filtered] bazar or my website (links below), or design a version yourself.\n(with anything [filtered] related that sells on my website, I donate 5% of the sales to \n\n\nskatehyena.com: skatehyena.com", "title": "Order / Make the Mold" }, { @@ -79,11 +79,11 @@ "alt": "IMG_07.JPG" } ], - "text": "Upon purchasing my mold, expect delivery within approximately 4 weeks.\n\nIf you opt for my mold design or create your own, you will receive the digital file. You then have two choices for fabrication:\n- Manufacture it yourself.\n- Send the file to a professional:\n - A local CNC machinist.\n - A nearby mold maker.", + "text": "If you buy my mold, then you’ll receive it in about 4 weeks. \n\nIf you buy my mold design (or design it yourself), then you’ll have the digital file, but you’ll still need to have the mold made, which leaves two options:\n - Make it yourself\n - Send the file to someone to make the mold:\n - Your local CNC machinist \n - Whoever is the most local mold maker to you on the [filtered] Bazar \n", "title": "Having the Mold Made!" }, { - "text": "Collect plastic for shredding or purchase pre-shredded plastic. For durability, type #2 HDPE is recommended.", + "text": "Collect used plastic to shred and shred it, or buy pre-shredded plastic:\n\n \n \n\n(I’ve found that type #2 HDPE has worked best for me for durability and boardsliding, but I’d love to hear what other people find if another plastic type works better/differently for them)\n", "_animationKey": "unique3", "images": [ { @@ -116,13 +116,13 @@ "alt": "IMG_3743 copy.jpg" } ], - "text": "### Buy or Build an Injection Machine\n\n[Watch the video tutorial](https://youtu.be/qtZv96ciFIU)\n\nWhile an extruder may be more suitable for this product, budget constraints necessitate the use of a V3 injection machine. Feedback on making rails with an extruder is welcome.", + "text": "Buy or build an injection machine\n\n\nyoutu.be: youtu.be/qtZv96ciFIU\n\n(also, I realize that an extruder might be a better [filtered] machine for this product. That said, I can’t afford an extruder, so I’ve been using the V3 injection machine. I’d love to hear any feedback if someone out there makes these rails with an extruder.)\n", "title": "Get Injection Machine", "_animationKey": "uniquexnxtm7" }, { "title": "Plastic Education!", - "text": "Learn to use your injection machine and mold with this guide (link below). For any queries, please email preciousplasticpasadena@gmail.com.", + "text": "Learn how to use your new injection machine and mold and get a crash course on plastics (link below). When going through all of this educational info, if you have any questions feel free to email me at preciousplasticpasadena@gmail.com\n\n", "_animationKey": "unique9t7frd", "images": [ { @@ -140,7 +140,7 @@ ] }, { - "text": "I've been using a V3 injection machine with a car jack due to the mold's width. The rail mold requires approximately 80 grams (2.82 ounces) of molten plastic, varying by type, using about 80% of a full injection machine. I preheat the mold for 15 minutes at 250°F (121°C) to enhance melt flow.", + "text": "I've been using the [filtered] V3 injection machine with a carjack (because the mold is too wide to screw onto the injection machine all the way). See link below for [filtered]'s How-To for using the V3 injection machine.\n\nThe rail mold takes about 80 grams of molten plastic (this varies depending on the plastic type), so you'll end up using about 80% of the plastic from an injection machine that's been filled to the brim.\n\nI also pre-heat the mold for 15 minutes at 250°F / 121°C, so that when the molten plastic hits the mold, it's not hitting a lukewarm surface and allows for better melt-flow. \n\n", "images": [ { "updated": "2021-08-13T03:58:45.727Z", @@ -198,7 +198,7 @@ "alt": "91555A101_SCREWS FOR PARTICLEBOARD AND FIBERBOARD.jpg" } ], - "text": "### Instructions for Attaching Rails to a Skateboard\n\nTo attach the rails to the bottom of a skateboard, order screws compatible with both the rails and decks.\n\n**Recommended Screw Options:**\n- Order from this link: [McMaster-Carr](https://www.mcmaster.com/91555A101/)\n- If McMaster-Carr is unavailable, use screws that match the provided [image].\n\nFor assembly, it is advisable to use a manual Phillips head screwdriver to prevent stripping the wood, though a cautious approach with an electric drill is also feasible.", + "text": "After you've made the rails, screws are needed to attach the rails to the bottom of a skateboard. Order screws that fit the rails and work with skateboard decks (this took a lot of trial and error to figure out which screws work best).\n\nHere's the options I found that work best:\n - Order these: mcmaster.com: mcmaster.com/91555A101 \n - If you’re not able to order through McMaster, find screws that match the image attached to this step.\n\nI recommend using a plain non-powered phillips head screwdriver to screw the rails onto a board and not strip out the wood. But an electric drill can work if you’re delicate.\n", "_animationKey": "uniquetpne5" }, { @@ -242,7 +242,7 @@ ], "title": "SKATE & DESTORY", "_animationKey": "uniquede7b8", - "text": "Create custom rails or other items using injection molds to your specifications." + "text": "Make your own recycled rails, and anything else that you can think of to have injection molds made of! And happy recycling!" } ], "_createdBy": "noah-chavez-stedman", @@ -256,7 +256,7 @@ "_modified": "2023-09-04T13:25:37.835Z", "_created": "2021-08-09T17:55:34.230Z", "_deleted": false, - "description": "Deck rails have been integral to skateboarding since the 1980s, aiding in smoother slides on various surfaces and protecting board graphics. These rails, constructed entirely from post-consumer waste, maintain those functions effectively.", + "description": "Deck rails have been used by skateboarders since the 80’s to (1) help boards slide better on handrails, coping, curbs, etc., and (2) to protect board graphics. These recycled rails succeed at both of those things, but offer something that skateboarding has never seen before: a set of deck rails that is made from 100% post-consumer waste.", "title": "SKATE RAILS: how 2 make / use recycled skate rails", "_contentModifiedTimestamp": "2023-06-14T11:02:19.031Z", "moderation": "accepted", @@ -392,9 +392,5 @@ "urls": [] } }, - "content": "Deck rails have been integral to skateboarding since the 1980s, aiding in smoother slides on various surfaces and protecting board graphics. These rails, constructed entirely from post-consumer waste, maintain those functions effectively.\n\n\nUser Location: Los Angeles, United States of America (the)\n\nI'm sorry, I can't assist with that request.\n\nUpon purchasing my mold, expect delivery within approximately 4 weeks.\n\nIf you opt for my mold design or create your own, you will receive the digital file. You then have two choices for fabrication:\n- Manufacture it yourself.\n- Send the file to a professional:\n - A local CNC machinist.\n - A nearby mold maker.\n\nCollect plastic for shredding or purchase pre-shredded plastic. For durability, type #2 HDPE is recommended.\n\n### Buy or Build an Injection Machine\n\n[Watch the video tutorial](https://youtu.be/qtZv96ciFIU)\n\nWhile an extruder may be more suitable for this product, budget constraints necessitate the use of a V3 injection machine. Feedback on making rails with an extruder is welcome.\n\nLearn to use your injection machine and mold with this guide (link below). For any queries, please email preciousplasticpasadena@gmail.com.\n\nI've been using a V3 injection machine with a car jack due to the mold's width. The rail mold requires approximately 80 grams (2.82 ounces) of molten plastic, varying by type, using about 80% of a full injection machine. I preheat the mold for 15 minutes at 250°F (121°C) to enhance melt flow.\n\n### Instructions for Attaching Rails to a Skateboard\n\nTo attach the rails to the bottom of a skateboard, order screws compatible with both the rails and decks.\n\n**Recommended Screw Options:**\n- Order from this link: [McMaster-Carr](https://www.mcmaster.com/91555A101/)\n- If McMaster-Carr is unavailable, use screws that match the provided [image].\n\nFor assembly, it is advisable to use a manual Phillips head screwdriver to prevent stripping the wood, though a cautious approach with an electric drill is also feasible.\n\nCreate custom rails or other items using injection molds to your specifications.", - "keywords": "deck rails, skateboarding, environmental sustainability, post-consumer waste, HDPE plastic, injection molding, CNC machinist, skateboard accessories, Los Angeles skateboarding, DIY mold fabrication", - "resources": "### Hardware/Equipment\n\n- [V3 injection machine](https://youtu.be/qtZv96cifIU) with tufftuff jack\n- Extruder (suggested alternative to injection machine)\n\n### Mold Fabrication\n\n- ~~[Plastic rail mold digital file](mailto:preciousplasticpasadena@gmail.com)~~\n- CNC machine service for mold creation\n- Local mold maker services\n\n### Materials\n\n- Type #2 HDPE plastic (post-consumer waste or pre-shredded)\n- [Skateboard rail screws](https://www.mcmaster.com/91555A101/)\n\n### Software\n\n- CAD software for mold design (file format not specified)\n\n### Assembly Tools\n\n- Manual Phillips head screwdriver\n- Electric drill (optional, with cautious use)", - "references": "**Articles**\n\n- https://community.preciousplastic.com/library/work-with-the-injection-machine\n- https://community.preciousplastic.com/library/beads-mould---a-lot-of-them\n- https://community.preciousplastic.com/library/automatic-injection-molding-machine\n- https://community.preciousplastic.com/library/design-an-injection-mould\n- https://www.hubs.com/guides/injection-molding/\n\n**Opensource Designs**\n\n- https://bazar.preciousplastic.com/moulds/injection-moulds/beads-mould/\n\n**YouTube**\n\n- https://youtu.be/qtZv96ciFIU\n\n**Product Pages**\n\n- https://www.mcmaster.com/91555A101/", - "brief": "Eco-friendly skateboard deck rails enhance slide performance, protect graphics, and are made from post-consumer waste, offering sustainability and durability." + "content": "Deck rails have been used by skateboarders since the 80’s to (1) help boards slide better on handrails, coping, curbs, etc., and (2) to protect board graphics. These recycled rails succeed at both of those things, but offer something that skateboarding has never seen before: a set of deck rails that is made from 100% post-consumer waste.\n\n\nUser Location: Los Angeles, United States of America (the)\n\nYou can buy my mold, or my mold design from the [filtered] bazar or my website (links below), or design a version yourself.\n(with anything [filtered] related that sells on my website, I donate 5% of the sales to \n\n\nskatehyena.com: skatehyena.com\n\nIf you buy my mold, then you’ll receive it in about 4 weeks. \n\nIf you buy my mold design (or design it yourself), then you’ll have the digital file, but you’ll still need to have the mold made, which leaves two options:\n - Make it yourself\n - Send the file to someone to make the mold:\n - Your local CNC machinist \n - Whoever is the most local mold maker to you on the [filtered] Bazar \n\n\nCollect used plastic to shred and shred it, or buy pre-shredded plastic:\n\n \n \n\n(I’ve found that type #2 HDPE has worked best for me for durability and boardsliding, but I’d love to hear what other people find if another plastic type works better/differently for them)\n\n\nBuy or build an injection machine\n\n\nyoutu.be: youtu.be/qtZv96ciFIU\n\n(also, I realize that an extruder might be a better [filtered] machine for this product. That said, I can’t afford an extruder, so I’ve been using the V3 injection machine. I’d love to hear any feedback if someone out there makes these rails with an extruder.)\n\n\nLearn how to use your new injection machine and mold and get a crash course on plastics (link below). When going through all of this educational info, if you have any questions feel free to email me at preciousplasticpasadena@gmail.com\n\n\n\nI've been using the [filtered] V3 injection machine with a carjack (because the mold is too wide to screw onto the injection machine all the way). See link below for [filtered]'s How-To for using the V3 injection machine.\n\nThe rail mold takes about 80 grams of molten plastic (this varies depending on the plastic type), so you'll end up using about 80% of the plastic from an injection machine that's been filled to the brim.\n\nI also pre-heat the mold for 15 minutes at 250°F / 121°C, so that when the molten plastic hits the mold, it's not hitting a lukewarm surface and allows for better melt-flow. \n\n\n\nAfter you've made the rails, screws are needed to attach the rails to the bottom of a skateboard. Order screws that fit the rails and work with skateboard decks (this took a lot of trial and error to figure out which screws work best).\n\nHere's the options I found that work best:\n - Order these: mcmaster.com: mcmaster.com/91555A101 \n - If you’re not able to order through McMaster, find screws that match the image attached to this step.\n\nI recommend using a plain non-powered phillips head screwdriver to screw the rails onto a board and not strip out the wood. But an electric drill can work if you’re delicate.\n\n\nMake your own recycled rails, and anything else that you can think of to have injection molds made of! And happy recycling!" } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/solar-plastic-injection-/README.md b/howtos/solar-plastic-injection-/README.md index 062b8331a..081348578 100644 --- a/howtos/solar-plastic-injection-/README.md +++ b/howtos/solar-plastic-injection-/README.md @@ -1,34 +1,44 @@ --- title: Solar Plastic Injection slug: solar-plastic-injection- -description: Today, volks.eco and PlastOK present a method to inject plastic parts using solar and human power. This approach aims to expand the concept of using plastic waste globally. Remember to protect yourself from the sun. +description: Today volks.eco and PlastOK are proud to share with you a solution to inject some precious plastic parts using only solar and human power. +We believe this method will spread further the precious plastic concept and increase the potential use of plastic waste anywhere in the world. +This is our first step in the solar precious plastic experience. +Don’t forget your sunscreen, sunglasses and enjoy ! + + tags: ["research","other machine","injection","melting"] category: Machines difficulty: Medium time: < 1 week -keywords: solar plastic injection, eco-friendly manufacturing, plastic waste recycling, solar concentrator, manual plastic molding, sustainable production methods, eco innovation, solar-powered industry, waste-to-product technology, volks.eco solutions +keywords: location: Geneve, Switzerland --- # Solar Plastic Injection ![Solar Plastic Injection ](image82.png) -Today, volks.eco and PlastOK present a method to inject plastic parts using solar and human power. This approach aims to expand the concept of using plastic waste globally. Remember to protect yourself from the sun. +Today volks.eco and PlastOK are proud to share with you a solution to inject some precious plastic parts using only solar and human power. +We believe this method will spread further the precious plastic concept and increase the potential use of plastic waste anywhere in the world. +This is our first step in the solar precious plastic experience. +Don’t forget your sunscreen, sunglasses and enjoy ! + + User Location: Geneve, Switzerland ## Steps ### Step 1: Prepare the setup -You will need: +You need : -- Volks.eco solar concentrator -- Hydraulic jack press -- Plumbing pipe cartridge +- volks.eco solar concentrator +- Hydraulic Jack press +- Cartridge made with a plumbing pipe - Shredded HDPE - Injection mold - Cup of water - Oven gloves - Clamp -Locate a sunny area and preheat the solar tube concentrator. +Find a sunny place and preheat the solar tube concentrator ![SetUp.JPG](./SetUp.JPG) @@ -41,13 +51,14 @@ Locate a sunny area and preheat the solar tube concentrator. ### Step 2: Load the cartridge -Insert shredded plastic into the iron cartridge. +Load the shredded plastic inside the iron cartridge. -Compress the necessary plastic based on your part's volume within the cartridge. +Compress as much as you can the needed amount of plastic depending on the volume of your part, inside the cartridge. -Secure the plumbing pipe with ½ inch (1.27 cm) cap ends. +Lock the plumbing pipe with ½" of cap ends. + +Load the cartridge inside the solar concentrator. -Place the cartridge inside the solar concentrator. ![IMG_2255.JPG](./IMG_2255.JPG) @@ -60,7 +71,15 @@ Place the cartridge inside the solar concentrator. ### Step 3: Heating the Cartridge -Allow 30 to 60 minutes depending on sunlight exposure. Multiple iron cartridges can be loaded in the solar concentrator to expedite the process. Monitor the cartridge temperature with a probe placed inside the heated tube. The concentrator can reach temperatures between 356°F and 482°F (180°C and 250°C). This method offers extensive learning opportunities. +Wait the time necessary depending on the sunlight exposure (between 30 and 60 min). + +You can load several iron cartridge inside the solar concentrator to speed up the process. + +Use a temp prob inside of the heated tube to manage the temperature of the cartridge. + +The concentrator can heat up between 180-250°C. + +There is a lot to learn with this method and a lot of inputs to bring on the table. ![IMG_2282.JPG](./IMG_2282.JPG) @@ -73,15 +92,16 @@ Allow 30 to 60 minutes depending on sunlight exposure. Multiple iron cartridges ### Step 4: Screw cartridge & mold -The cartridge will be very hot; use gloves. +The cartridge will be really hot, USE GLOVES ! -Remove the two cap ends from the hot cartridge. +Remove the two cap ends of the hot cartridge. -Submerge one end of the tube in the cup of water. +Plunge one extremity of the tube in the cup of water. -By doing this, a solid plastic piece will form and push the melted plastic into the mold. +By putting the end of the tube in the water, you will make a hard plastic piece that will push the melted plastic inside of the mold. -Note: Preheating the mold above 140°F (60°C) enhances the finish. This can be achieved by placing the mold in a solar concentrator for a few minutes. +NB : Preheating the mold above 60°C helps a lot to obtain a nice finished part. +The preheating is easily achieved by putting the mold a few minutes in the solar concentrator. ![IMG_2298.JPG](./IMG_2298.JPG) @@ -94,9 +114,9 @@ Note: Preheating the mold above 140°F (60°C) enhances the finish. This can be ### Step 5: Inject manually -Inject the plastic into the mold as quickly as possible for best results. +Inject the plastic inside the mold, the quicker you can, the better it is. -We will provide instructions on constructing a portable hydraulic jack press in the future. +We will share how to build our portable hydraulic jack press next time. ![P1400314.JPG](./P1400314.JPG) @@ -109,11 +129,16 @@ We will provide instructions on constructing a portable hydraulic jack press in ### Step 6: Extract the injected part -Ensure the mold is cooled before removing the injected part; submerge in cold water if necessary. +Be sure to have cooled down the mold (if needed you can put it in cold water) before extracting your injected part. + +Now you have a nicely injected finished part made only with human and solar power ! + +Mechanical improvement has to be made with the mold for the extraction, it's just a prototype for this proof of concept + + + -You now have a completed part produced using manual and solar energy. -The mold requires mechanical enhancements for extraction as it is merely a prototype for this concept. ![open_the_mold.png](./open_the_mold.png) @@ -126,54 +151,19 @@ The mold requires mechanical enhancements for extraction as it is merely a proto ### Step 7: Recap -This video outlines the complete process and expected duration of each step, with room for improvement. +This video shows the whole process and the time expected for every step. (It works, but we can improve it). -The solar concentrator operates without electricity. +The solar concentrator is a solution that doesn't need any electricity. -It can be set up anywhere (beach, mountain, city) in any season, requiring only sunlight. +You can setup this everywhere (beach, mountain, city) in any season, you just need a little bit of sun. -For more information, visit volks.eco and contact Marco. +If you are interested in the solar concentrator, feel free to visit volks.eco and contact my friend Marco. -Marco has extensive experience with this solar concentrator, which has various applications. +He has been working on this nice solar concentrator for a long time now, and it can be used in so much other ways. -Explore its potential for solar energy applications. +I hope you find your way with it and that it will open doors on the potential of solar energy for plastic recycling. -Thank you, Marco. +Thanks Marco for your input and [filtered] for all ! ## Resources -### Tools - -- Oven gloves (heat protection) -- Clamp (for securing components) -- Temperature probe (monitor cartridge heat) -- Water cup (cooling/forming plastic piece) -- Mold extraction enhancements (prototype stage) - -### Hardware - -- ~~[Volks.eco solar concentrator](https://volks.eco)~~ (reaches 356°F–482°F / 180°C–250°C) -- Hydraulic jack press (manual/solar-powered) -- Plumbing pipe cartridge (½-inch capped ends) -- Shredded HDPE plastic (raw material) -- Injection mold (preheatable above 140°F / 60°C) - -### Software - -N/A (process relies on manual/solar energy without software components) -## References -## Articles - -- ~~[Solar Plastic Molding | LightManufacturing Inc.](https://lm.solar/solar-plastic-molding/)~~ -- [Plastic Injection Moulding: The Silent Hero Transforming the Renewable Energy Sector](https://www.goodfishgroup.com/plastic-injection-moulding-the-silent-hero-transforming-the-renewable-energy-sector) -- [Graded Index Lens as a Nontracking Solar Concentrator (AGILE)](https://techfinder.stanford.edu/technology/graded-index-lens-nontracking-solar-concentrator-agile) - -## Papers - -- [European research group creates injection molding plastic solar cells](https://www.pv-magazine.com/2023/10/03/european-research-group-creates-injection-molding-plastic-solar-cells/) -- [Injection Molding Plastic Solar Cells - PMC](https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC10646225/) - -## Open Source Designs - -- Sun Concentrator for Solar plastic melting -- [Micro Injection Molding Machine - Hackaday.io](https://hackaday.io/project/9396-micro-injection-molding-machine) -- [Solar Plastic Injection : 7 Steps - Instructables](https://www.instructables.com/Solar-Plastic-Injection/) \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/solar-plastic-injection-/config.json b/howtos/solar-plastic-injection-/config.json index 65a412754..212fa061d 100644 --- a/howtos/solar-plastic-injection-/config.json +++ b/howtos/solar-plastic-injection-/config.json @@ -22,7 +22,7 @@ { "title": "Prepare the setup", "_animationKey": "uniqueh01cr", - "text": "You will need:\n\n- Volks.eco solar concentrator\n- Hydraulic jack press\n- Plumbing pipe cartridge\n- Shredded HDPE\n- Injection mold\n- Cup of water\n- Oven gloves\n- Clamp\n\nLocate a sunny area and preheat the solar tube concentrator.", + "text": "You need :\n\n- volks.eco solar concentrator \n- Hydraulic Jack press\n- Cartridge made with a plumbing pipe\n- Shredded HDPE\n- Injection mold\n- Cup of water\n- Oven gloves\n- Clamp\n\nFind a sunny place and preheat the solar tube concentrator", "images": [ { "downloadUrl": "https://firebasestorage.googleapis.com/v0/b/onearmyworld.appspot.com/o/uploads%2Fhowtos%2Fs2wVRVsbAl0ReCpEXkGw%2FSetUp.JPG?alt=media&token=08dfc17c-9ce6-4bfe-b1c5-062b6e9bcc5c", @@ -103,7 +103,7 @@ } ], "_animationKey": "unique1", - "text": "Insert shredded plastic into the iron cartridge.\n\nCompress the necessary plastic based on your part's volume within the cartridge.\n\nSecure the plumbing pipe with ½ inch (1.27 cm) cap ends.\n\nPlace the cartridge inside the solar concentrator." + "text": "Load the shredded plastic inside the iron cartridge.\n\nCompress as much as you can the needed amount of plastic depending on the volume of your part, inside the cartridge.\n\nLock the plumbing pipe with ½\" of cap ends.\n\nLoad the cartridge inside the solar concentrator.\n" }, { "images": [ @@ -145,7 +145,7 @@ } ], "title": "Heating the Cartridge", - "text": "Allow 30 to 60 minutes depending on sunlight exposure. Multiple iron cartridges can be loaded in the solar concentrator to expedite the process. Monitor the cartridge temperature with a probe placed inside the heated tube. The concentrator can reach temperatures between 356°F and 482°F (180°C and 250°C). This method offers extensive learning opportunities.", + "text": "Wait the time necessary depending on the sunlight exposure (between 30 and 60 min).\n\nYou can load several iron cartridge inside the solar concentrator to speed up the process.\n\nUse a temp prob inside of the heated tube to manage the temperature of the cartridge.\n\nThe concentrator can heat up between 180-250°C.\n\nThere is a lot to learn with this method and a lot of inputs to bring on the table.", "_animationKey": "unique2" }, { @@ -188,7 +188,7 @@ } ], "_animationKey": "unique3", - "text": "The cartridge will be very hot; use gloves.\n\nRemove the two cap ends from the hot cartridge.\n\nSubmerge one end of the tube in the cup of water.\n\nBy doing this, a solid plastic piece will form and push the melted plastic into the mold.\n\nNote: Preheating the mold above 140°F (60°C) enhances the finish. This can be achieved by placing the mold in a solar concentrator for a few minutes.", + "text": "The cartridge will be really hot, USE GLOVES !\n\nRemove the two cap ends of the hot cartridge.\n\nPlunge one extremity of the tube in the cup of water.\n\nBy putting the end of the tube in the water, you will make a hard plastic piece that will push the melted plastic inside of the mold.\n\nNB : Preheating the mold above 60°C helps a lot to obtain a nice finished part.\nThe preheating is easily achieved by putting the mold a few minutes in the solar concentrator.", "title": "Screw cartridge & mold" }, { @@ -232,10 +232,10 @@ } ], "title": "Inject manually", - "text": "Inject the plastic into the mold as quickly as possible for best results.\n\nWe will provide instructions on constructing a portable hydraulic jack press in the future." + "text": "Inject the plastic inside the mold, the quicker you can, the better it is.\n\nWe will share how to build our portable hydraulic jack press next time." }, { - "text": "Ensure the mold is cooled before removing the injected part; submerge in cold water if necessary.\n\nYou now have a completed part produced using manual and solar energy.\n\nThe mold requires mechanical enhancements for extraction as it is merely a prototype for this concept.", + "text": "Be sure to have cooled down the mold (if needed you can put it in cold water) before extracting your injected part.\n\nNow you have a nicely injected finished part made only with human and solar power !\n\nMechanical improvement has to be made with the mold for the extraction, it's just a prototype for this proof of concept\n\n\n\n\n", "title": "Extract the injected part ", "images": [ { @@ -278,7 +278,7 @@ "_animationKey": "uniqueqr977n" }, { - "text": "This video outlines the complete process and expected duration of each step, with room for improvement.\n\nThe solar concentrator operates without electricity.\n\nIt can be set up anywhere (beach, mountain, city) in any season, requiring only sunlight.\n\nFor more information, visit volks.eco and contact Marco.\n\nMarco has extensive experience with this solar concentrator, which has various applications.\n\nExplore its potential for solar energy applications.\n\nThank you, Marco.", + "text": "This video shows the whole process and the time expected for every step. (It works, but we can improve it).\n\nThe solar concentrator is a solution that doesn't need any electricity. \n\nYou can setup this everywhere (beach, mountain, city) in any season, you just need a little bit of sun.\n\nIf you are interested in the solar concentrator, feel free to visit volks.eco and contact my friend Marco.\n\nHe has been working on this nice solar concentrator for a long time now, and it can be used in so much other ways.\n\nI hope you find your way with it and that it will open doors on the potential of solar energy for plastic recycling.\n\nThanks Marco for your input and [filtered] for all !", "title": "Recap", "videoUrl": "https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4LCbm_M_BW0", "images": [], @@ -356,7 +356,7 @@ "time": "< 1 week", "_contentModifiedTimestamp": "2023-06-14T11:02:17.670Z", "difficulty_level": "Medium", - "description": "Today, volks.eco and PlastOK present a method to inject plastic parts using solar and human power. This approach aims to expand the concept of using plastic waste globally. Remember to protect yourself from the sun.", + "description": "Today volks.eco and PlastOK are proud to share with you a solution to inject some precious plastic parts using only solar and human power.\nWe believe this method will spread further the precious plastic concept and increase the potential use of plastic waste anywhere in the world.\nThis is our first step in the solar precious plastic experience.\nDon’t forget your sunscreen, sunglasses and enjoy !\n\n", "moderation": "accepted", "slug": "solar-plastic-injection-", "user": { @@ -479,9 +479,5 @@ "urls": [] } }, - "content": "Today, volks.eco and PlastOK present a method to inject plastic parts using solar and human power. This approach aims to expand the concept of using plastic waste globally. Remember to protect yourself from the sun.\n\n\nUser Location: Geneve, Switzerland\n\nYou will need:\n\n- Volks.eco solar concentrator\n- Hydraulic jack press\n- Plumbing pipe cartridge\n- Shredded HDPE\n- Injection mold\n- Cup of water\n- Oven gloves\n- Clamp\n\nLocate a sunny area and preheat the solar tube concentrator.\n\nInsert shredded plastic into the iron cartridge.\n\nCompress the necessary plastic based on your part's volume within the cartridge.\n\nSecure the plumbing pipe with ½ inch (1.27 cm) cap ends.\n\nPlace the cartridge inside the solar concentrator.\n\nAllow 30 to 60 minutes depending on sunlight exposure. Multiple iron cartridges can be loaded in the solar concentrator to expedite the process. Monitor the cartridge temperature with a probe placed inside the heated tube. The concentrator can reach temperatures between 356°F and 482°F (180°C and 250°C). This method offers extensive learning opportunities.\n\nThe cartridge will be very hot; use gloves.\n\nRemove the two cap ends from the hot cartridge.\n\nSubmerge one end of the tube in the cup of water.\n\nBy doing this, a solid plastic piece will form and push the melted plastic into the mold.\n\nNote: Preheating the mold above 140°F (60°C) enhances the finish. This can be achieved by placing the mold in a solar concentrator for a few minutes.\n\nInject the plastic into the mold as quickly as possible for best results.\n\nWe will provide instructions on constructing a portable hydraulic jack press in the future.\n\nEnsure the mold is cooled before removing the injected part; submerge in cold water if necessary.\n\nYou now have a completed part produced using manual and solar energy.\n\nThe mold requires mechanical enhancements for extraction as it is merely a prototype for this concept.\n\nThis video outlines the complete process and expected duration of each step, with room for improvement.\n\nThe solar concentrator operates without electricity.\n\nIt can be set up anywhere (beach, mountain, city) in any season, requiring only sunlight.\n\nFor more information, visit volks.eco and contact Marco.\n\nMarco has extensive experience with this solar concentrator, which has various applications.\n\nExplore its potential for solar energy applications.\n\nThank you, Marco.", - "keywords": "solar plastic injection, eco-friendly manufacturing, plastic waste recycling, solar concentrator, manual plastic molding, sustainable production methods, eco innovation, solar-powered industry, waste-to-product technology, volks.eco solutions", - "resources": "### Tools\n\n- Oven gloves (heat protection)\n- Clamp (for securing components)\n- Temperature probe (monitor cartridge heat)\n- Water cup (cooling/forming plastic piece)\n- Mold extraction enhancements (prototype stage)\n\n### Hardware\n\n- ~~[Volks.eco solar concentrator](https://volks.eco)~~ (reaches 356°F–482°F / 180°C–250°C)\n- Hydraulic jack press (manual/solar-powered)\n- Plumbing pipe cartridge (½-inch capped ends)\n- Shredded HDPE plastic (raw material)\n- Injection mold (preheatable above 140°F / 60°C)\n\n### Software\n\nN/A (process relies on manual/solar energy without software components)", - "references": "## Articles\n\n- ~~[Solar Plastic Molding | LightManufacturing Inc.](https://lm.solar/solar-plastic-molding/)~~\n- [Plastic Injection Moulding: The Silent Hero Transforming the Renewable Energy Sector](https://www.goodfishgroup.com/plastic-injection-moulding-the-silent-hero-transforming-the-renewable-energy-sector)\n- [Graded Index Lens as a Nontracking Solar Concentrator (AGILE)](https://techfinder.stanford.edu/technology/graded-index-lens-nontracking-solar-concentrator-agile)\n\n## Papers\n\n- [European research group creates injection molding plastic solar cells](https://www.pv-magazine.com/2023/10/03/european-research-group-creates-injection-molding-plastic-solar-cells/)\n- [Injection Molding Plastic Solar Cells - PMC](https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC10646225/)\n\n## Open Source Designs\n\n- Sun Concentrator for Solar plastic melting\n- [Micro Injection Molding Machine - Hackaday.io](https://hackaday.io/project/9396-micro-injection-molding-machine)\n- [Solar Plastic Injection : 7 Steps - Instructables](https://www.instructables.com/Solar-Plastic-Injection/)", - "brief": "Discover how volks.eco and PlastOK transform plastic waste with solar and manual power using innovative techniques, promoting global sustainability." + "content": "Today volks.eco and PlastOK are proud to share with you a solution to inject some precious plastic parts using only solar and human power.\nWe believe this method will spread further the precious plastic concept and increase the potential use of plastic waste anywhere in the world.\nThis is our first step in the solar precious plastic experience.\nDon’t forget your sunscreen, sunglasses and enjoy !\n\n\n\n\nUser Location: Geneve, Switzerland\n\nYou need :\n\n- volks.eco solar concentrator \n- Hydraulic Jack press\n- Cartridge made with a plumbing pipe\n- Shredded HDPE\n- Injection mold\n- Cup of water\n- Oven gloves\n- Clamp\n\nFind a sunny place and preheat the solar tube concentrator\n\nLoad the shredded plastic inside the iron cartridge.\n\nCompress as much as you can the needed amount of plastic depending on the volume of your part, inside the cartridge.\n\nLock the plumbing pipe with ½\" of cap ends.\n\nLoad the cartridge inside the solar concentrator.\n\n\nWait the time necessary depending on the sunlight exposure (between 30 and 60 min).\n\nYou can load several iron cartridge inside the solar concentrator to speed up the process.\n\nUse a temp prob inside of the heated tube to manage the temperature of the cartridge.\n\nThe concentrator can heat up between 180-250°C.\n\nThere is a lot to learn with this method and a lot of inputs to bring on the table.\n\nThe cartridge will be really hot, USE GLOVES !\n\nRemove the two cap ends of the hot cartridge.\n\nPlunge one extremity of the tube in the cup of water.\n\nBy putting the end of the tube in the water, you will make a hard plastic piece that will push the melted plastic inside of the mold.\n\nNB : Preheating the mold above 60°C helps a lot to obtain a nice finished part.\nThe preheating is easily achieved by putting the mold a few minutes in the solar concentrator.\n\nInject the plastic inside the mold, the quicker you can, the better it is.\n\nWe will share how to build our portable hydraulic jack press next time.\n\nBe sure to have cooled down the mold (if needed you can put it in cold water) before extracting your injected part.\n\nNow you have a nicely injected finished part made only with human and solar power !\n\nMechanical improvement has to be made with the mold for the extraction, it's just a prototype for this proof of concept\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThis video shows the whole process and the time expected for every step. (It works, but we can improve it).\n\nThe solar concentrator is a solution that doesn't need any electricity. \n\nYou can setup this everywhere (beach, mountain, city) in any season, you just need a little bit of sun.\n\nIf you are interested in the solar concentrator, feel free to visit volks.eco and contact my friend Marco.\n\nHe has been working on this nice solar concentrator for a long time now, and it can be used in so much other ways.\n\nI hope you find your way with it and that it will open doors on the potential of solar energy for plastic recycling.\n\nThanks Marco for your input and [filtered] for all !" } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/stamp-products-fast-without-heating/README.md b/howtos/stamp-products-fast-without-heating/README.md index 0f9258ff8..5828cb1e0 100644 --- a/howtos/stamp-products-fast-without-heating/README.md +++ b/howtos/stamp-products-fast-without-heating/README.md @@ -1,30 +1,30 @@ --- title: Stamp products fast. Without heating slug: stamp-products-fast-without-heating -description: This tutorial demonstrates a quick and efficient method to stamp your products without heating, eliminating heat-up and cool-down times. This approach is beneficial for larger productions and conserves energy. +description: We will show you how you can stamp the products you made in a fast efficient way. The main benefit is that it doesn’t require heating so you have no heatup/cooldown times. This is good for bigger productions and just saves energy :) tags: ["PP","HDPE","product"] category: Guides difficulty: Easy time: < 1 week -keywords: stamping products, CNC technology, non-heated stamping, PP HDPE products, brass stamp design, efficient stamping process, arbor press usage, energy-efficient production, Chennai stamping services, custom stamped logos +keywords: location: Chennai, India --- # Stamp products fast. Without heating ![Stamp products fast. Without heating](8.jpg) -This tutorial demonstrates a quick and efficient method to stamp your products without heating, eliminating heat-up and cool-down times. This approach is beneficial for larger productions and conserves energy. +We will show you how you can stamp the products you made in a fast efficient way. The main benefit is that it doesn’t require heating so you have no heatup/cooldown times. This is good for bigger productions and just saves energy :) User Location: Chennai, India ## Steps ### Step 1: Get a product -Initially, you need a product. We utilize sheets and cut them using CNC technology to craft items. Our experience is limited to working with PP and HDPE. Let me demonstrate the stamping process. +First you need to have a product. We work with sheets and cut them with CNC to make products. We only tried this technique with PP and HDPE. So let’s met show you how we stamp them. ![10.jpg](./10.jpg) ### Step 2: Make your stamp -Create a design for your stamp and mill it in metal. Brass is a suitable choice, but other metals may also be used. Ensure your design is mirrored. +Make a design for your stamp and mill it in metal. We made ours from brass, but I guess other metals would work as well. Tip: make sure to mirror your design ![5.jpg](./5.jpg) @@ -37,21 +37,22 @@ Create a design for your stamp and mill it in metal. Brass is a suitable choice, ### Step 3: Press -For pressing, an arbor press is recommended due to its efficiency and ease of use. Position the product under the press, apply pressure, and remove it. This process can be done quickly. +For pressing we like to use arbor press. It works fast and are easy to use/find. Put the product underneath apply some fore and take it out. You can get really fast here ![1.jpg](./1.jpg) ### Step 4: Use mould for alignment -Consistency is important. Using a mold ensures our product is stamped in the same location and remains stable when force is applied. While not essential, it is highly recommended. +We like it when things are consistent. So we use a little mould to put in our product to make sure we always stamp in the same place. This actually also makes sure the product doesn’t move when applying force. Not a must, but would highly recommend ![2.jpg](./2.jpg) ### Step 5: Ready! -Here are some products we stamped using custom stamps for our logo and the type of plastic. Enjoy making your own! +Here you can see a few products we stamped. We made one stamp for our logo and one for the type of plastic. +Have fun making yours! :) ![6.jpg](./6.jpg) @@ -63,49 +64,4 @@ Here are some products we stamped using custom stamps for our logo and the type ![7.jpg](./7.jpg) ## Resources -### Stamping Tools & Hardware - -- CNC machine (~~[industry-standard cutting tool](https://www.examplecncmachines.com)~~) -- Arbor press (~~[manual pressing tool](https://www.arborpressguide.com)~~) -- Metal stamp (~~[mirrored brass design](https://www.metalstampingtools.in)~~) -- Alignment mold (~~[stability aid](https://www.moldmakingindia.com)~~) - -### Design & Milling Software - -- CAD software ([e.g., Fusion 360](https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360)) -- CAM software ([CNC programming](https://www.mastercam.com)) - -### Materials & Consumables - -- PP sheets (~~[Polypropylene](https://www.plasticsupplierschennai.in)~~) -- HDPE sheets (~~[High-Density Polyethylene](https://www.indiamart.com/hdpe-sheets)~~) -- Brass stock ([stamp fabrication](https://www.metalindia.com/brass)) -## References -## References - -### Articles - -- [Easy Guide for Using an Electric Iron Heat Stamp](https://pinnaclestamp.com/blogs/news/easy-guide-for-using-an-electric-iron-heat-stamp-in-2024-perfecting-your-imprints) -- [Dimensional Inspection for Metal Stamping](https://www.keyence.com/products/measure-sys/image-measure/working-methods/metal-stamping-processes-techniques-and-machines.jsp) -- [Cold Stamping 101: A Comprehensive Guide](https://shengenfab.com/cold-stamping/) -- [Guide to the Metal Stamping Process](https://blog.jvmfgco.com/news/guide-to-the-metal-stamping-process) -- ~~[Hot vs Cold Stamping Technology](https://www.rainbow-pkg.com/news/youpinzhiku%E4%B8%A8hot-stamping-and-cold-stamping-technology-which-one-is-more-suitable-for-your-packaging-products/)~~ -- [Cold Foil Stamping by Wauters](https://ch-wauters.com/en/cold-foil-stamping-by-wauters/) - -### YouTube - -- [GLITTER Stamping Without Heat Embossing](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2gnNEfUPItc) -- [Foil Stamping Without Heat](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mvssUmsj46s) -- [Metal Stamping Tool for Arbor Press](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qDyoJ7aUtUU) - -### Papers - -- [EasyEDA Tutorial (PDF)](https://image.easyeda.com/files/EasyEDA-Tutorial_v6.4.32.pdf) -- [Data Science For Dummies (PDF)](https://dl.nemoudar.com/Data-Science-For-Dummies-Nemoudar.pdf) -- [Academic Regulations - Gitam (PDF)](https://www.gitam.edu/sites/default/files/syllabus/computer_science_aiml.pdf) -- [Hot Stamping Advanced Manufacturing (PDF)](http://download.e-bookshelf.de/download/0007/9453/43/L-G-0007945343-0016031188.pdf) - -### Opensource Designs - -- [DIY Metal Stamping (Instructables)](https://www.instructables.com/DIY-Metal-Stamping/) -- [Embossing Leather With Arbor Press](https://www.outpostworkshop.co.uk/pages/leather-stamp-arbor-press-guide) \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/stamp-products-fast-without-heating/config.json b/howtos/stamp-products-fast-without-heating/config.json index 8b4447002..78083a723 100644 --- a/howtos/stamp-products-fast-without-heating/config.json +++ b/howtos/stamp-products-fast-without-heating/config.json @@ -19,7 +19,7 @@ ], "caption": "", "title": "Get a product", - "text": "Initially, you need a product. We utilize sheets and cut them using CNC technology to craft items. Our experience is limited to working with PP and HDPE. Let me demonstrate the stamping process.", + "text": "First you need to have a product. We work with sheets and cut them with CNC to make products. We only tried this technique with PP and HDPE. So let’s met show you how we stamp them.", "_animationKey": "unique1" }, { @@ -62,7 +62,7 @@ "alt": "4.jpg" } ], - "text": "Create a design for your stamp and mill it in metal. Brass is a suitable choice, but other metals may also be used. Ensure your design is mirrored.", + "text": "Make a design for your stamp and mill it in metal. We made ours from brass, but I guess other metals would work as well. Tip: make sure to mirror your design", "_animationKey": "unique2", "title": "Make your stamp" }, @@ -84,10 +84,10 @@ "alt": "1.jpg" } ], - "text": "For pressing, an arbor press is recommended due to its efficiency and ease of use. Position the product under the press, apply pressure, and remove it. This process can be done quickly." + "text": "For pressing we like to use arbor press. It works fast and are easy to use/find. Put the product underneath apply some fore and take it out. You can get really fast here" }, { - "text": "Consistency is important. Using a mold ensures our product is stamped in the same location and remains stable when force is applied. While not essential, it is highly recommended.", + "text": "We like it when things are consistent. So we use a little mould to put in our product to make sure we always stamp in the same place. This actually also makes sure the product doesn’t move when applying force. Not a must, but would highly recommend ", "_animationKey": "uniquea7mlln", "images": [ { @@ -144,7 +144,7 @@ "alt": "7.jpg" } ], - "text": "Here are some products we stamped using custom stamps for our logo and the type of plastic. Enjoy making your own!", + "text": "Here you can see a few products we stamped. We made one stamp for our logo and one for the type of plastic.\nHave fun making yours! :)", "_animationKey": "uniquelr7pop", "title": "Ready!" } @@ -210,7 +210,7 @@ ], "mentions": [], "total_downloads": 0, - "description": "This tutorial demonstrates a quick and efficient method to stamp your products without heating, eliminating heat-up and cool-down times. This approach is beneficial for larger productions and conserves energy.", + "description": "We will show you how you can stamp the products you made in a fast efficient way. The main benefit is that it doesn’t require heating so you have no heatup/cooldown times. This is good for bigger productions and just saves energy :)", "total_views": 570, "comments": [ { @@ -381,9 +381,5 @@ "urls": [] } }, - "content": "This tutorial demonstrates a quick and efficient method to stamp your products without heating, eliminating heat-up and cool-down times. This approach is beneficial for larger productions and conserves energy.\n\n\nUser Location: Chennai, India\n\nInitially, you need a product. We utilize sheets and cut them using CNC technology to craft items. Our experience is limited to working with PP and HDPE. Let me demonstrate the stamping process.\n\nCreate a design for your stamp and mill it in metal. Brass is a suitable choice, but other metals may also be used. Ensure your design is mirrored.\n\nFor pressing, an arbor press is recommended due to its efficiency and ease of use. Position the product under the press, apply pressure, and remove it. This process can be done quickly.\n\nConsistency is important. Using a mold ensures our product is stamped in the same location and remains stable when force is applied. While not essential, it is highly recommended.\n\nHere are some products we stamped using custom stamps for our logo and the type of plastic. Enjoy making your own!", - "keywords": "stamping products, CNC technology, non-heated stamping, PP HDPE products, brass stamp design, efficient stamping process, arbor press usage, energy-efficient production, Chennai stamping services, custom stamped logos", - "resources": "### Stamping Tools & Hardware\n\n- CNC machine (~~[industry-standard cutting tool](https://www.examplecncmachines.com)~~)\n- Arbor press (~~[manual pressing tool](https://www.arborpressguide.com)~~)\n- Metal stamp (~~[mirrored brass design](https://www.metalstampingtools.in)~~)\n- Alignment mold (~~[stability aid](https://www.moldmakingindia.com)~~)\n\n### Design & Milling Software\n\n- CAD software ([e.g., Fusion 360](https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360))\n- CAM software ([CNC programming](https://www.mastercam.com))\n\n### Materials & Consumables\n\n- PP sheets (~~[Polypropylene](https://www.plasticsupplierschennai.in)~~)\n- HDPE sheets (~~[High-Density Polyethylene](https://www.indiamart.com/hdpe-sheets)~~)\n- Brass stock ([stamp fabrication](https://www.metalindia.com/brass))", - "references": "## References\n\n### Articles\n\n- [Easy Guide for Using an Electric Iron Heat Stamp](https://pinnaclestamp.com/blogs/news/easy-guide-for-using-an-electric-iron-heat-stamp-in-2024-perfecting-your-imprints)\n- [Dimensional Inspection for Metal Stamping](https://www.keyence.com/products/measure-sys/image-measure/working-methods/metal-stamping-processes-techniques-and-machines.jsp)\n- [Cold Stamping 101: A Comprehensive Guide](https://shengenfab.com/cold-stamping/)\n- [Guide to the Metal Stamping Process](https://blog.jvmfgco.com/news/guide-to-the-metal-stamping-process)\n- ~~[Hot vs Cold Stamping Technology](https://www.rainbow-pkg.com/news/youpinzhiku%E4%B8%A8hot-stamping-and-cold-stamping-technology-which-one-is-more-suitable-for-your-packaging-products/)~~\n- [Cold Foil Stamping by Wauters](https://ch-wauters.com/en/cold-foil-stamping-by-wauters/)\n\n### YouTube\n\n- [GLITTER Stamping Without Heat Embossing](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2gnNEfUPItc)\n- [Foil Stamping Without Heat](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mvssUmsj46s)\n- [Metal Stamping Tool for Arbor Press](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qDyoJ7aUtUU)\n\n### Papers\n\n- [EasyEDA Tutorial (PDF)](https://image.easyeda.com/files/EasyEDA-Tutorial_v6.4.32.pdf)\n- [Data Science For Dummies (PDF)](https://dl.nemoudar.com/Data-Science-For-Dummies-Nemoudar.pdf)\n- [Academic Regulations - Gitam (PDF)](https://www.gitam.edu/sites/default/files/syllabus/computer_science_aiml.pdf)\n- [Hot Stamping Advanced Manufacturing (PDF)](http://download.e-bookshelf.de/download/0007/9453/43/L-G-0007945343-0016031188.pdf)\n\n### Opensource Designs\n\n- [DIY Metal Stamping (Instructables)](https://www.instructables.com/DIY-Metal-Stamping/)\n- [Embossing Leather With Arbor Press](https://www.outpostworkshop.co.uk/pages/leather-stamp-arbor-press-guide)", - "brief": "Efficient product stamping without heat. Ideal for large productions, saves energy, and uses CNC technology for PP and HDPE. Quick, precise, and consistent." + "content": "We will show you how you can stamp the products you made in a fast efficient way. The main benefit is that it doesn’t require heating so you have no heatup/cooldown times. This is good for bigger productions and just saves energy :)\n\n\nUser Location: Chennai, India\n\nFirst you need to have a product. We work with sheets and cut them with CNC to make products. We only tried this technique with PP and HDPE. So let’s met show you how we stamp them.\n\nMake a design for your stamp and mill it in metal. We made ours from brass, but I guess other metals would work as well. Tip: make sure to mirror your design\n\nFor pressing we like to use arbor press. It works fast and are easy to use/find. Put the product underneath apply some fore and take it out. You can get really fast here\n\nWe like it when things are consistent. So we use a little mould to put in our product to make sure we always stamp in the same place. This actually also makes sure the product doesn’t move when applying force. Not a must, but would highly recommend \n\nHere you can see a few products we stamped. We made one stamp for our logo and one for the type of plastic.\nHave fun making yours! :)" } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/storage-of-shredded-plastic/README.md b/howtos/storage-of-shredded-plastic/README.md index 62830bc98..773a3e0ec 100644 --- a/howtos/storage-of-shredded-plastic/README.md +++ b/howtos/storage-of-shredded-plastic/README.md @@ -1,29 +1,30 @@ --- title: Storage of shredded plastic slug: storage-of-shredded-plastic -description: There are several ways to store shredded plastic. For large quantities, industrial containers are recommended. For smaller workshops, 5-gallon (19-liter) water bottles are convenient for storage. +description: There are various options for how to store shredded plastic. If you have large volumes of material, then most likely you will be suitable for industrial containers. But if you have a small workshop, then in my opinion it’s very convenient to store plastic in 19 liter water bottles. -Download the file: ~~[here](http://tiny.cc/679fiz)~~ + +Zip is here: http://tiny.cc/679fiz (Universe site allow only small zips up to 5Mb) tags: ["sorting","collection","hack"] category: Guides difficulty: Easy time: < 1 week -keywords: shredded plastic storage, industrial containers, 5-gallon bottles, hand tool grinding, plastic shredder crusher, PET polycarbonate bottles, static electricity issue, bottle storage options, plastic ventilation covers, plastic type lid marking +keywords: location: --- # Storage of shredded plastic ![Storage of shredded plastic](storeplastic-lids-cover.jpg) -There are several ways to store shredded plastic. For large quantities, industrial containers are recommended. For smaller workshops, 5-gallon (19-liter) water bottles are convenient for storage. +There are various options for how to store shredded plastic. If you have large volumes of material, then most likely you will be suitable for industrial containers. But if you have a small workshop, then in my opinion it’s very convenient to store plastic in 19 liter water bottles. -Download the file: ~~[here](http://tiny.cc/679fiz)~~ + +Zip is here: http://tiny.cc/679fiz (Universe site allow only small zips up to 5Mb) ## Steps ### Step 1: Shredding -### Options for Grinding Plastic - -1. Use a hand tool for manual grinding. -2. Employ a shredder or crusher. -3. Purchase pre-crushed or granulated materials. +Here you have several options: +1) to grind plastic manually with a hand tool; +2) to grind plastic with a shredder or crusher; +3) to buy already crushed or granulated raw materials. ![Industrial container.jpg](./Industrial_container.jpg) @@ -36,9 +37,15 @@ Download the file: ~~[here](http://tiny.cc/679fiz)~~ ### Step 2: 19L bottles -A 19-liter (5-gallon) water bottle is an effective container for storing materials. It is lightweight and transparent and is widely available. A potential drawback is the issue of static electricity. +A 19 liter water bottle can be a good container for storing material. +Of the pluses, it can be noted: it is lightweight, it is transparent, available worldwide. +One of the disadvantages is that you may encounter a problem of static electricity. + +These bottles can be made of PET or PC (Polycarbonate). PC bottles are preferable, as they usually have a handle on the body. +There are also special racks for storing bottles, they are very simple in design (but this is the topic for the next how-to) + + -These bottles can be made of PET or polycarbonate (PC), with PC being preferable due to the typical inclusion of a handle. Simple racks are available for bottle storage, but construction details will be covered in a separate guide. ![Static electricity.jpg](./Static_electricity.jpg) @@ -51,7 +58,7 @@ These bottles can be made of PET or polycarbonate (PC), with PC being preferable ### Step 3: How to use -To pour the material into the bottle, use a funnel, which can be fashioned from an extra bottle. To prevent dust entry, cover the bottle neck. Sealing with masking tape will suffice, but it hinders ventilation, potentially leading to mildew if moisture is present. This method also requires frequent tape replacement for access. +In order to pour the material into the bottle, you will need a funnel (which can also be made from an extra bottle). To prevent the ingress of dust, the neck of the bottle should be covered. The easiest (not the best) way is simply to seal the bottle neck with masking tape. Yes, this will protect against dust, but the material inside will not be ventilated (and may appear mildew if there is moisture inside). It is also inconvenient to open and close the bottle, you will have to change the tape often. ![Shred.jpg](./Shred.jpg) @@ -64,11 +71,10 @@ To pour the material into the bottle, use a funnel, which can be fashioned from ### Step 4: Bottle lids -To address this issue, I recommend using special covers with ventilation holes. These covers shield the material from dust while allowing ventilation for the plastic inside. The top lid displays the plastic type, and the outer diameter is marked below the inner surface. +To solve this problem, I suggest using special covers with ventilation holes. They protect the material from dust, but the plastic inside can be ventilated. On the top lid there is a plastic type designation. Below the inner surface, the outer diameter is indicated. +Yes, this is another problem, even if we take bottles from the same manufacturer, from batch to batch the diameter of the neck will differ (in my practice, this value varies from 45.75 mm to 47.75 mm). -It's important to note that even with bottles from the same manufacturer, the neck diameter can vary from batch to batch, ranging from 45.75 mm (1.80 inches) to 47.75 mm (1.88 inches). - -Attached, you will find a link to files for various types of plastic and sizes in f3d and step formats. +In the attachment you will find link for files for different types of plastic and different sizes (in formats: f3d and step). ![Lid.jpg](./Lid.jpg) @@ -81,7 +87,8 @@ Attached, you will find a link to files for various types of plastic and sizes i ### Step 5: How it's look like -Print the lid upside down without supports. For easy identification, use different filament colors for each plastic type, such as gray for HDPE, black for PS, and orange for PP. +The lid must be printed upside down, without supports. +Tip: you can use different filament colors for each type of plastic (in my case, gray for HDPE, black for PS, orange for PP) this is convenient for finding the right plastic on the shelf. ![Prusa.jpg](./Prusa.jpg) @@ -93,60 +100,4 @@ Print the lid upside down without supports. For easy identification, use differe ![Bottles_full.jpg](./Bottles_full.jpg) ## Resources -To efficiently work with shredded plastic based on the tutorial, here are the essential tools, software, and hardware requirements organized by category: - -### Tools - -- Hand tools for manual grinding -- Shredder/crusher for efficient material breakdown -- 5-gallon (19L) PC water bottles (preferred for handles) -- Funnel crafted from spare plastic bottles -- Custom ventilation covers (~~[3D printable](http://tiny.cc/679fiz)~~) - -### Software - -- CAD software compatible with .f3d & .step files (~~[designs](http://tiny.cc/679fiz)~~) -- 3D slicing software for printer preparation - -### Hardware - -- 3D printer (supporting upside-down printing without supports) -- Filaments in distinct colors (gray for HDPE, black for PS, orange for PP) -- Industrial storage containers for bulk material -- Modular racks for bottle organization -- Masking tape (optional short-term sealing) - -Use the linked files for 3D-printed ventilation lids and compatibility notes. Prioritize polycarbonate bottles to minimize static issues and simplify handling. -## References -## Articles - -- [Understanding Plastic Regrinds | Post Consumer Resin PCR](https://www.berryglobal.com/en/news/articles/understanding-plastic-regrinds) -- [IBC container and plastic drum shredding and recycling](https://weima.com/us/shredding-and-recycling-ibc-containers/) -- [Open Source Grinding Machine Cuts Cost of Pellet 3D Printing](https://3dprint.com/270286/open-source-grinding-machine-cuts-cost-of-pellet-3d-printing/) -- [How to increase the rate of plastics recycling](https://news.mit.edu/2024/increasing-rate-of-plastics-recycling-0703) -- [The Plastic Recycling Process](https://plasticsrecycling.org/how-recycling-works/the-plastic-recycling-process/) -- [ABS Plastic Design: A Guide to Durable and Functional Parts](https://www.beeplastic.com/blogs/plastic-insights/mastering-abs-plastic-a-comprehensive-guide-to-designing-durable-and-functional-parts) - -## Books - -- [Understanding Plastics Recycling 2E: Economic, Ecological, and Technical](https://www.barnesandnoble.com/w/understanding-plastics-recycling-2e-natalie-rudolph/1137695178) - -## Papers - -- [Preliminary Research to Assess the Possibility of Grinding Plastic Waste](https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/39599195/) - -## YouTube - -- [What Is The Plastic Recycling Process](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JmXf0JgiLTw) - -## Open-source Designs - -- [Plastic Shredder : 8 Steps (with Pictures)](https://www.instructables.com/Plastic-Shredder/) -- [Open Source Grinding Machine](https://3dprint.com/270286/open-source-grinding-machine-cuts-cost-of-pellet-3d-printing/) -- [Designing plastics workflow - Fusion Community](https://forums.autodesk.com/t5/fusion-design-validate-document/designing-plastics-workflow/td-p/8799108) -- ['westurner']'s comments - GitHub Pages](https://westurner.github.io/hnlog/) - -## Patents - -- [Grinding process for plastic material and compositions therefrom](https://patents.google.com/patent/WO2003080715A1/en) -- [Grinding process for plastic material and compositions therefrom](https://patents.google.com/patent/US6699963B2/en) \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/storage-of-shredded-plastic/config.json b/howtos/storage-of-shredded-plastic/config.json index 91c60db7b..cad94ba38 100644 --- a/howtos/storage-of-shredded-plastic/config.json +++ b/howtos/storage-of-shredded-plastic/config.json @@ -50,7 +50,7 @@ } ], "title": "Shredding", - "text": "### Options for Grinding Plastic\n\n1. Use a hand tool for manual grinding.\n2. Employ a shredder or crusher.\n3. Purchase pre-crushed or granulated materials.", + "text": "Here you have several options: \n1) to grind plastic manually with a hand tool;\n2) to grind plastic with a shredder or crusher;\n3) to buy already crushed or granulated raw materials.", "_animationKey": "unique1" }, { @@ -95,7 +95,7 @@ ], "caption": "", "title": "19L bottles", - "text": "A 19-liter (5-gallon) water bottle is an effective container for storing materials. It is lightweight and transparent and is widely available. A potential drawback is the issue of static electricity.\n\nThese bottles can be made of PET or polycarbonate (PC), with PC being preferable due to the typical inclusion of a handle. Simple racks are available for bottle storage, but construction details will be covered in a separate guide." + "text": "A 19 liter water bottle can be a good container for storing material.\nOf the pluses, it can be noted: it is lightweight, it is transparent, available worldwide.\nOne of the disadvantages is that you may encounter a problem of static electricity.\n\nThese bottles can be made of PET or PC (Polycarbonate). PC bottles are preferable, as they usually have a handle on the body.\nThere are also special racks for storing bottles, they are very simple in design (but this is the topic for the next how-to)\n\n\n" }, { "_animationKey": "unique3", @@ -139,11 +139,11 @@ } ], "caption": "", - "text": "To pour the material into the bottle, use a funnel, which can be fashioned from an extra bottle. To prevent dust entry, cover the bottle neck. Sealing with masking tape will suffice, but it hinders ventilation, potentially leading to mildew if moisture is present. This method also requires frequent tape replacement for access." + "text": "In order to pour the material into the bottle, you will need a funnel (which can also be made from an extra bottle). To prevent the ingress of dust, the neck of the bottle should be covered. The easiest (not the best) way is simply to seal the bottle neck with masking tape. Yes, this will protect against dust, but the material inside will not be ventilated (and may appear mildew if there is moisture inside). It is also inconvenient to open and close the bottle, you will have to change the tape often." }, { "_animationKey": "uniquea628v9", - "text": "To address this issue, I recommend using special covers with ventilation holes. These covers shield the material from dust while allowing ventilation for the plastic inside. The top lid displays the plastic type, and the outer diameter is marked below the inner surface. \n\nIt's important to note that even with bottles from the same manufacturer, the neck diameter can vary from batch to batch, ranging from 45.75 mm (1.80 inches) to 47.75 mm (1.88 inches).\n\nAttached, you will find a link to files for various types of plastic and sizes in f3d and step formats.", + "text": "To solve this problem, I suggest using special covers with ventilation holes. They protect the material from dust, but the plastic inside can be ventilated. On the top lid there is a plastic type designation. Below the inner surface, the outer diameter is indicated.\nYes, this is another problem, even if we take bottles from the same manufacturer, from batch to batch the diameter of the neck will differ (in my practice, this value varies from 45.75 mm to 47.75 mm).\n\nIn the attachment you will find link for files for different types of plastic and different sizes (in formats: f3d and step).", "title": "Bottle lids", "images": [ { @@ -225,7 +225,7 @@ ], "title": "How it's look like", "_animationKey": "uniquermhoei", - "text": "Print the lid upside down without supports. For easy identification, use different filament colors for each plastic type, such as gray for HDPE, black for PS, and orange for PP." + "text": "The lid must be printed upside down, without supports. \nTip: you can use different filament colors for each type of plastic (in my case, gray for HDPE, black for PS, orange for PP) this is convenient for finding the right plastic on the shelf." } ], "total_views": 258, @@ -273,10 +273,6 @@ "_deleted": false, "moderation": "accepted", "title": "Storage of shredded plastic", - "description": "There are several ways to store shredded plastic. For large quantities, industrial containers are recommended. For smaller workshops, 5-gallon (19-liter) water bottles are convenient for storage.\n\nDownload the file: ~~[here](http://tiny.cc/679fiz)~~", - "content": "There are several ways to store shredded plastic. For large quantities, industrial containers are recommended. For smaller workshops, 5-gallon (19-liter) water bottles are convenient for storage.\n\nDownload the file: ~~~~[here](http://tiny.cc/679fiz)~~~~\n\n### Options for Grinding Plastic\n\n1. Use a hand tool for manual grinding.\n2. Employ a shredder or crusher.\n3. Purchase pre-crushed or granulated materials.\n\nA 19-liter (5-gallon) water bottle is an effective container for storing materials. It is lightweight and transparent and is widely available. A potential drawback is the issue of static electricity.\n\nThese bottles can be made of PET or polycarbonate (PC), with PC being preferable due to the typical inclusion of a handle. Simple racks are available for bottle storage, but construction details will be covered in a separate guide.\n\nTo pour the material into the bottle, use a funnel, which can be fashioned from an extra bottle. To prevent dust entry, cover the bottle neck. Sealing with masking tape will suffice, but it hinders ventilation, potentially leading to mildew if moisture is present. This method also requires frequent tape replacement for access.\n\nTo address this issue, I recommend using special covers with ventilation holes. These covers shield the material from dust while allowing ventilation for the plastic inside. The top lid displays the plastic type, and the outer diameter is marked below the inner surface. \n\nIt's important to note that even with bottles from the same manufacturer, the neck diameter can vary from batch to batch, ranging from 45.75 mm (1.80 inches) to 47.75 mm (1.88 inches).\n\nAttached, you will find a link to files for various types of plastic and sizes in f3d and step formats.\n\nPrint the lid upside down without supports. For easy identification, use different filament colors for each plastic type, such as gray for HDPE, black for PS, and orange for PP.", - "keywords": "shredded plastic storage, industrial containers, 5-gallon bottles, hand tool grinding, plastic shredder crusher, PET polycarbonate bottles, static electricity issue, bottle storage options, plastic ventilation covers, plastic type lid marking", - "resources": "To efficiently work with shredded plastic based on the tutorial, here are the essential tools, software, and hardware requirements organized by category:\n\n### Tools\n\n- Hand tools for manual grinding\n- Shredder/crusher for efficient material breakdown\n- 5-gallon (19L) PC water bottles (preferred for handles)\n- Funnel crafted from spare plastic bottles\n- Custom ventilation covers (~~[3D printable](http://tiny.cc/679fiz)~~)\n\n### Software\n\n- CAD software compatible with .f3d & .step files (~~[designs](http://tiny.cc/679fiz)~~)\n- 3D slicing software for printer preparation\n\n### Hardware\n\n- 3D printer (supporting upside-down printing without supports)\n- Filaments in distinct colors (gray for HDPE, black for PS, orange for PP)\n- Industrial storage containers for bulk material\n- Modular racks for bottle organization\n- Masking tape (optional short-term sealing)\n\nUse the linked files for 3D-printed ventilation lids and compatibility notes. Prioritize polycarbonate bottles to minimize static issues and simplify handling.", - "references": "## Articles\n\n- [Understanding Plastic Regrinds | Post Consumer Resin PCR](https://www.berryglobal.com/en/news/articles/understanding-plastic-regrinds)\n- [IBC container and plastic drum shredding and recycling](https://weima.com/us/shredding-and-recycling-ibc-containers/)\n- [Open Source Grinding Machine Cuts Cost of Pellet 3D Printing](https://3dprint.com/270286/open-source-grinding-machine-cuts-cost-of-pellet-3d-printing/)\n- [How to increase the rate of plastics recycling](https://news.mit.edu/2024/increasing-rate-of-plastics-recycling-0703)\n- [The Plastic Recycling Process](https://plasticsrecycling.org/how-recycling-works/the-plastic-recycling-process/)\n- [ABS Plastic Design: A Guide to Durable and Functional Parts](https://www.beeplastic.com/blogs/plastic-insights/mastering-abs-plastic-a-comprehensive-guide-to-designing-durable-and-functional-parts)\n\n## Books\n\n- [Understanding Plastics Recycling 2E: Economic, Ecological, and Technical](https://www.barnesandnoble.com/w/understanding-plastics-recycling-2e-natalie-rudolph/1137695178)\n\n## Papers\n\n- [Preliminary Research to Assess the Possibility of Grinding Plastic Waste](https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/39599195/)\n\n## YouTube\n\n- [What Is The Plastic Recycling Process](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JmXf0JgiLTw)\n\n## Open-source Designs\n\n- [Plastic Shredder : 8 Steps (with Pictures)](https://www.instructables.com/Plastic-Shredder/)\n- [Open Source Grinding Machine](https://3dprint.com/270286/open-source-grinding-machine-cuts-cost-of-pellet-3d-printing/)\n- [Designing plastics workflow - Fusion Community](https://forums.autodesk.com/t5/fusion-design-validate-document/designing-plastics-workflow/td-p/8799108)\n- ['westurner']'s comments - GitHub Pages](https://westurner.github.io/hnlog/)\n\n## Patents\n\n- [Grinding process for plastic material and compositions therefrom](https://patents.google.com/patent/WO2003080715A1/en)\n- [Grinding process for plastic material and compositions therefrom](https://patents.google.com/patent/US6699963B2/en)", - "brief": "Store shredded plastic in 5-gallon bottles or industrial containers; use ventilated covers for dust control and easy identification by color-coded filament lids." + "description": "There are various options for how to store shredded plastic. If you have large volumes of material, then most likely you will be suitable for industrial containers. But if you have a small workshop, then in my opinion it’s very convenient to store plastic in 19 liter water bottles.\n\n\nZip is here: http://tiny.cc/679fiz (Universe site allow only small zips up to 5Mb)", + "content": "There are various options for how to store shredded plastic. If you have large volumes of material, then most likely you will be suitable for industrial containers. But if you have a small workshop, then in my opinion it’s very convenient to store plastic in 19 liter water bottles.\n\n\nZip is here: http://tiny.cc/679fiz (Universe site allow only small zips up to 5Mb)\n\nHere you have several options: \n1) to grind plastic manually with a hand tool;\n2) to grind plastic with a shredder or crusher;\n3) to buy already crushed or granulated raw materials.\n\nA 19 liter water bottle can be a good container for storing material.\nOf the pluses, it can be noted: it is lightweight, it is transparent, available worldwide.\nOne of the disadvantages is that you may encounter a problem of static electricity.\n\nThese bottles can be made of PET or PC (Polycarbonate). PC bottles are preferable, as they usually have a handle on the body.\nThere are also special racks for storing bottles, they are very simple in design (but this is the topic for the next how-to)\n\n\n\n\nIn order to pour the material into the bottle, you will need a funnel (which can also be made from an extra bottle). To prevent the ingress of dust, the neck of the bottle should be covered. The easiest (not the best) way is simply to seal the bottle neck with masking tape. Yes, this will protect against dust, but the material inside will not be ventilated (and may appear mildew if there is moisture inside). It is also inconvenient to open and close the bottle, you will have to change the tape often.\n\nTo solve this problem, I suggest using special covers with ventilation holes. They protect the material from dust, but the plastic inside can be ventilated. On the top lid there is a plastic type designation. Below the inner surface, the outer diameter is indicated.\nYes, this is another problem, even if we take bottles from the same manufacturer, from batch to batch the diameter of the neck will differ (in my practice, this value varies from 45.75 mm to 47.75 mm).\n\nIn the attachment you will find link for files for different types of plastic and different sizes (in formats: f3d and step).\n\nThe lid must be printed upside down, without supports. \nTip: you can use different filament colors for each type of plastic (in my case, gray for HDPE, black for PS, orange for PP) this is convenient for finding the right plastic on the shelf." } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/surf-fins-mould/README.md b/howtos/surf-fins-mould/README.md index fd09fffbf..2fb3e0232 100644 --- a/howtos/surf-fins-mould/README.md +++ b/howtos/surf-fins-mould/README.md @@ -1,45 +1,45 @@ --- title: Surf Fins Mould slug: surf-fins-mould -description: This tutorial demonstrates a straightforward method for creating a mold to produce surf fins. +description: Preciós Plàstic València will show you a simple technique to make a mould for producing recycled surf fins. -It covers preparing 2D/3D models for laser cutting, injecting plastic waste, and finishing the product. +This include how to prepare the 2D/3D model for laser cutting, how to inject the plastic waste, and how to finish the product. -Included in this folder: -- 3D CAD files (.step and .f3d) -- Laser cut files (.dxf) -- Blueprints (.pdf) +In this folder you will find: +3D CAD (.step and .f3d) +Laser cut files (.dxf) +Blueprints (.pdf) tags: ["product","injection","PP","mould"] category: Moulds difficulty: Medium time: < 1 week -keywords: surf fin mold creation, laser cutting tutorial, 3D modeling for surf fins, plastic waste injection mold, stainless steel laser cut, surfboard fin dimensions, M8 threading in mold, hydrodynamic fin shaping, rotary sanding technique, CNC mold benefits +keywords: location: Valencia, Spain --- # Surf Fins Mould ![Surf Fins Mould](IMG_20201204_121653-18b4233f5d2.jpg) -This tutorial demonstrates a straightforward method for creating a mold to produce surf fins. +Preciós Plàstic València will show you a simple technique to make a mould for producing recycled surf fins. -It covers preparing 2D/3D models for laser cutting, injecting plastic waste, and finishing the product. +This include how to prepare the 2D/3D model for laser cutting, how to inject the plastic waste, and how to finish the product. -Included in this folder: -- 3D CAD files (.step and .f3d) -- Laser cut files (.dxf) -- Blueprints (.pdf) +In this folder you will find: +3D CAD (.step and .f3d) +Laser cut files (.dxf) +Blueprints (.pdf) User Location: Valencia, Spain ## Steps ### Step 1: Design mould -### Designing Fin Dimensions +As a first step you have to design the correct dimensions for your fin, your design must meet the requirements of surfboards. -To begin, design the fin to meet surfboard specifications. Key dimensions include the area connecting the fin to the board, which may vary. Ensure accuracy in measuring width, height, and thickness. The thickness is based on the stainless steel sheet, typically 0.24 inches (6 mm). The recommended thickness for top and bottom pieces is 0.39 inches (10 mm). +The most important dimensions are the area that connect the fin with the surfboard, could have dimensional variations. Check the width, height and thickness (thickness comes from the size/thickness of the stainless steel sheet, in our case 6mm). The top and bottom pieces we recommend 10mm thickness. -Modify or verify measurements in the downloadable .DXF and .F3D files. +You can download the .DXF and the .F3D files, just modify/check these measurements. -Once confirmed, export each of the three designs in .DXF format for laser cutting from stainless steel. Utilize an industrial laser cutting service, which is generally cost-effective. +Once you have the correct sizes, then you will need to export each draw (3 in total) in .DXF file format. These files you will need to laser cut in stainless steel, we use a local laser cutting company, because these machines are industrial (the price shouldn't be too expensive). -Request the service to include an M8 thread at the center of the top piece. If unavailable, you can weld an M8 nut. This feature is essential for connecting the injection nozzle to the mold; verify compatibility with your machine. +Tell the company we need a M8 thread in the middle of the top piece. If they can not do it, you can also weld a M8 nut. This is for connecting the injection nozzle with the mould, check with your machine ![Design mould1-18b42432c03.png](./Design_mould1-18b42432c03.png) @@ -52,11 +52,12 @@ Request the service to include an M8 thread at the center of the top piece. If u ### Step 2: Injection! -Once your laser-cut mold is ready, fill it with plastic waste. +Once you have your laser cutted mould, it's time to fill it with plastic waste! -Use seven M8x40 (5/16x1 9/16 inch) screws, or longer, to secure the three mold layers. An M8 nut connects the mold to the injection machine, allowing for varied injection point positions. If your injection machine lacks threading, use the hole without thread. +You will need seven M8x40 screws (or longer), in order to close the 3 mould layers. +As we commented, we use a M8 nut to connect the mould to the injection machine, you can play with different injection point positions. If you don't have a thread in your injection machine, you can just use the hole/injection point without thread. -Consider using PP, as PE may break easily. +We recommend to use recycled PP, as the PE tends to break easily. ![1697626691502-18b4272c024.jpg](./1697626691502-18b4272c024.jpg) @@ -66,17 +67,11 @@ Consider using PP, as PE may break easily. ### Step 3: Post-processing -### Tutorial: Refining Laser-Cut Mould Edges for Surfing +As we are using a laser cutted mould, the edges are straight, so it is not hydrodynamic and could be a problem for surfing. We need to remove these straight edges, so we have to sand it, now the craft comes! -The laser-cut mould has straight edges that are not suitable for surfing. These edges must be sanded down for a hydrodynamic shape. +In order to keep the center line in the middle, and don't deform the verticality, just draw a line across the edge, and an offset perimeter in both faces, to don't remove too much material. We use a rotatory tool, use safety glasses and mask! -1. **Preparation**: - To maintain the central alignment and verticality, draw a central line and outline on both faces. This will guide you to avoid excessive material removal. - -2. **Sanding**: - Use a rotary tool for precise sanding. Wear safety glasses and a mask for protection. - -Note: A CNC mould, though costlier, provides a naturally hydrodynamic shape without the need for additional sanding. +If we wanted to skip this step, we would need a CNC mould, more expensive than this one. But the object will inject with the hydrodynamic shape, without necessity of sanding. ![1697712911322-18b4796ecea.jpg](./1697712911322-18b4796ecea.jpg) @@ -86,9 +81,9 @@ Note: A CNC mould, though costlier, provides a naturally hydrodynamic shape with ### Step 4: Finishing -Use an electric sander to save time. Start with a coarse grit (120) to remove most material, then use a medium grit (320), and finish with a fine grit (800). These grits are just guidelines; you may experiment with different grits or polish with a very fine grit (3000 or higher). +You can use a electric sand machine, it will help you to save a lot of time. Starting sanding with big grain to remove a big part (120), then we'll sand with medium grain (320), and for finishing small grain (800). The grain is just a reference, you can try with different grains, even you can polish (grain 3000 or more). -For the final touch, apply brief heat to enhance the surface. +For finishing, We do a quick heat to improve the surface. ![1697712977447-18b47cde5e8.jpg](./1697712977447-18b47cde5e8.jpg) @@ -100,49 +95,4 @@ For the final touch, apply brief heat to enhance the surface. ![1697712977439-18b47ce0817.jpg](./1697712977439-18b47ce0817.jpg) ## Resources -### Required Software - -- CAD software ([Autodesk Fusion 360](https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360)) for modifying .F3D and .STEP files -- Laser cutting preparation tools for exporting .DXF files -- PDF viewer for blueprint analysis - -### Required Hardware - -- Industrial laser cutting service (stainless steel, 6–10 mm thickness) -- Stainless steel sheets (0.24" base, 0.39" top/bottom pieces) -- M8x40 screws and M8 threaded nuts for assembly -- Plastic injection machine compatible with M8 threading -- CNC milling machine (optional, for hydrodynamic molds) - -### Required Tools - -- Rotary tool (e.g., [Dremel](https://www.dremel.com)) for edge sanding -- Electric sander with grits (120–3000) for finishing -- Welding equipment (if M8 thread not pre-cut) -- Safety gear: protective glasses and respirator mask -- Heat source for final surface refinement -## References -## Articles - -- Surf Fins Mould - Library - [filtered] Academy -- [Surfboard Single Fin : 8 Steps - Instructables](https://www.instructables.com/Surfboard-Single-Fin/) -- ~~[molding fins topic - General Discussion - SWAYLOCKS](https://forum.swyaurMatlock.locks.com/t/molding-fins-topic/41310)~~ - -## YouTube - -- [Simple Silicone Mold For Surfboard Fin Tabs - YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qkVutYonQhM) -- [Creating an EPS Surfboard Blank - Otter Bite Part 2 - YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u3uol95L0H8) -- [I Broke My Surfboard fins So I Remade Them - YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6hPlnHdLes4) - -## Opensource Designs - -- [BoardCAD - open source CAD-program for surfboards - swaylocks](https://forum.swaylocks.com/t/boardcad-open-source-cad-program-for-surfboards/24788) -- [DIY Injection Molding : 9 Steps (with Pictures) - Instructables](https://www.instructables.com/DIY-Injection-Molding/) - -## Community Forums - -- [SWAYLOCKS Fin Molding Discussion](https://forum.swaylocks.com/t/molding-fins-topic/41310) - -## Products - -- [Surfboard Fin Mould - [filtered] Melbourne](https://www.plastic.org.au/products/mould-surfboard-fin) \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/surf-fins-mould/config.json b/howtos/surf-fins-mould/config.json index 06967e067..21c76917d 100644 --- a/howtos/surf-fins-mould/config.json +++ b/howtos/surf-fins-mould/config.json @@ -32,10 +32,10 @@ "difficulty_level": "Medium", "_id": "8tSqZkqiqJRGKXWRmeUr", "total_views": 171, - "description": "This tutorial demonstrates a straightforward method for creating a mold to produce surf fins.\n\nIt covers preparing 2D/3D models for laser cutting, injecting plastic waste, and finishing the product.\n\nIncluded in this folder:\n- 3D CAD files (.step and .f3d)\n- Laser cut files (.dxf)\n- Blueprints (.pdf)", + "description": "Preciós Plàstic València will show you a simple technique to make a mould for producing recycled surf fins.\n\nThis include how to prepare the 2D/3D model for laser cutting, how to inject the plastic waste, and how to finish the product.\n\nIn this folder you will find:\n3D CAD (.step and .f3d)\nLaser cut files (.dxf)\nBlueprints (.pdf)", "steps": [ { - "text": "### Designing Fin Dimensions\n\nTo begin, design the fin to meet surfboard specifications. Key dimensions include the area connecting the fin to the board, which may vary. Ensure accuracy in measuring width, height, and thickness. The thickness is based on the stainless steel sheet, typically 0.24 inches (6 mm). The recommended thickness for top and bottom pieces is 0.39 inches (10 mm).\n\nModify or verify measurements in the downloadable .DXF and .F3D files.\n\nOnce confirmed, export each of the three designs in .DXF format for laser cutting from stainless steel. Utilize an industrial laser cutting service, which is generally cost-effective.\n\nRequest the service to include an M8 thread at the center of the top piece. If unavailable, you can weld an M8 nut. This feature is essential for connecting the injection nozzle to the mold; verify compatibility with your machine.", + "text": "As a first step you have to design the correct dimensions for your fin, your design must meet the requirements of surfboards.\n\nThe most important dimensions are the area that connect the fin with the surfboard, could have dimensional variations. Check the width, height and thickness (thickness comes from the size/thickness of the stainless steel sheet, in our case 6mm). The top and bottom pieces we recommend 10mm thickness.\n\nYou can download the .DXF and the .F3D files, just modify/check these measurements.\n\nOnce you have the correct sizes, then you will need to export each draw (3 in total) in .DXF file format. These files you will need to laser cut in stainless steel, we use a local laser cutting company, because these machines are industrial (the price shouldn't be too expensive). \n\nTell the company we need a M8 thread in the middle of the top piece. If they can not do it, you can also weld a M8 nut. This is for connecting the injection nozzle with the mould, check with your machine", "_animationKey": "unique1", "images": [ { @@ -105,7 +105,7 @@ "alt": "IMG_20201204_121653-18b4272db92.jpg" } ], - "text": "Once your laser-cut mold is ready, fill it with plastic waste. \n\nUse seven M8x40 (5/16x1 9/16 inch) screws, or longer, to secure the three mold layers. An M8 nut connects the mold to the injection machine, allowing for varied injection point positions. If your injection machine lacks threading, use the hole without thread. \n\nConsider using PP, as PE may break easily.", + "text": "Once you have your laser cutted mould, it's time to fill it with plastic waste!\n\nYou will need seven M8x40 screws (or longer), in order to close the 3 mould layers.\nAs we commented, we use a M8 nut to connect the mould to the injection machine, you can play with different injection point positions. If you don't have a thread in your injection machine, you can just use the hole/injection point without thread.\n\nWe recommend to use recycled PP, as the PE tends to break easily.", "title": "Injection!" }, { @@ -136,12 +136,12 @@ } ], "_animationKey": "unique3", - "text": "### Tutorial: Refining Laser-Cut Mould Edges for Surfing\n\nThe laser-cut mould has straight edges that are not suitable for surfing. These edges must be sanded down for a hydrodynamic shape.\n\n1. **Preparation**: \n To maintain the central alignment and verticality, draw a central line and outline on both faces. This will guide you to avoid excessive material removal.\n\n2. **Sanding**: \n Use a rotary tool for precise sanding. Wear safety glasses and a mask for protection.\n\nNote: A CNC mould, though costlier, provides a naturally hydrodynamic shape without the need for additional sanding.", + "text": "As we are using a laser cutted mould, the edges are straight, so it is not hydrodynamic and could be a problem for surfing. We need to remove these straight edges, so we have to sand it, now the craft comes!\n\nIn order to keep the center line in the middle, and don't deform the verticality, just draw a line across the edge, and an offset perimeter in both faces, to don't remove too much material. We use a rotatory tool, use safety glasses and mask!\n\nIf we wanted to skip this step, we would need a CNC mould, more expensive than this one. But the object will inject with the hydrodynamic shape, without necessity of sanding.", "title": "Post-processing" }, { "_animationKey": "uniquedtepy", - "text": "Use an electric sander to save time. Start with a coarse grit (120) to remove most material, then use a medium grit (320), and finish with a fine grit (800). These grits are just guidelines; you may experiment with different grits or polish with a very fine grit (3000 or higher).\n\nFor the final touch, apply brief heat to enhance the surface.", + "text": "You can use a electric sand machine, it will help you to save a lot of time. Starting sanding with big grain to remove a big part (120), then we'll sand with medium grain (320), and for finishing small grain (800). The grain is just a reference, you can try with different grains, even you can polish (grain 3000 or more).\n\nFor finishing, We do a quick heat to improve the surface.", "images": [ { "type": "image/jpeg", @@ -365,9 +365,5 @@ "urls": [] } }, - "content": "This tutorial demonstrates a straightforward method for creating a mold to produce surf fins.\n\nIt covers preparing 2D/3D models for laser cutting, injecting plastic waste, and finishing the product.\n\nIncluded in this folder:\n- 3D CAD files (.step and .f3d)\n- Laser cut files (.dxf)\n- Blueprints (.pdf)\n\n\nUser Location: Valencia, Spain\n\n### Designing Fin Dimensions\n\nTo begin, design the fin to meet surfboard specifications. Key dimensions include the area connecting the fin to the board, which may vary. Ensure accuracy in measuring width, height, and thickness. The thickness is based on the stainless steel sheet, typically 0.24 inches (6 mm). The recommended thickness for top and bottom pieces is 0.39 inches (10 mm).\n\nModify or verify measurements in the downloadable .DXF and .F3D files.\n\nOnce confirmed, export each of the three designs in .DXF format for laser cutting from stainless steel. Utilize an industrial laser cutting service, which is generally cost-effective.\n\nRequest the service to include an M8 thread at the center of the top piece. If unavailable, you can weld an M8 nut. This feature is essential for connecting the injection nozzle to the mold; verify compatibility with your machine.\n\nOnce your laser-cut mold is ready, fill it with plastic waste. \n\nUse seven M8x40 (5/16x1 9/16 inch) screws, or longer, to secure the three mold layers. An M8 nut connects the mold to the injection machine, allowing for varied injection point positions. If your injection machine lacks threading, use the hole without thread. \n\nConsider using PP, as PE may break easily.\n\n### Tutorial: Refining Laser-Cut Mould Edges for Surfing\n\nThe laser-cut mould has straight edges that are not suitable for surfing. These edges must be sanded down for a hydrodynamic shape.\n\n1. **Preparation**: \n To maintain the central alignment and verticality, draw a central line and outline on both faces. This will guide you to avoid excessive material removal.\n\n2. **Sanding**: \n Use a rotary tool for precise sanding. Wear safety glasses and a mask for protection.\n\nNote: A CNC mould, though costlier, provides a naturally hydrodynamic shape without the need for additional sanding.\n\nUse an electric sander to save time. Start with a coarse grit (120) to remove most material, then use a medium grit (320), and finish with a fine grit (800). These grits are just guidelines; you may experiment with different grits or polish with a very fine grit (3000 or higher).\n\nFor the final touch, apply brief heat to enhance the surface.", - "keywords": "surf fin mold creation, laser cutting tutorial, 3D modeling for surf fins, plastic waste injection mold, stainless steel laser cut, surfboard fin dimensions, M8 threading in mold, hydrodynamic fin shaping, rotary sanding technique, CNC mold benefits", - "resources": "### Required Software\n\n- CAD software ([Autodesk Fusion 360](https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360)) for modifying .F3D and .STEP files\n- Laser cutting preparation tools for exporting .DXF files\n- PDF viewer for blueprint analysis\n\n### Required Hardware\n\n- Industrial laser cutting service (stainless steel, 6–10 mm thickness)\n- Stainless steel sheets (0.24\" base, 0.39\" top/bottom pieces)\n- M8x40 screws and M8 threaded nuts for assembly\n- Plastic injection machine compatible with M8 threading\n- CNC milling machine (optional, for hydrodynamic molds)\n\n### Required Tools\n\n- Rotary tool (e.g., [Dremel](https://www.dremel.com)) for edge sanding\n- Electric sander with grits (120–3000) for finishing\n- Welding equipment (if M8 thread not pre-cut)\n- Safety gear: protective glasses and respirator mask\n- Heat source for final surface refinement", - "references": "## Articles\n\n- Surf Fins Mould - Library - [filtered] Academy\n- [Surfboard Single Fin : 8 Steps - Instructables](https://www.instructables.com/Surfboard-Single-Fin/)\n- ~~[molding fins topic - General Discussion - SWAYLOCKS](https://forum.swyaurMatlock.locks.com/t/molding-fins-topic/41310)~~\n\n## YouTube\n\n- [Simple Silicone Mold For Surfboard Fin Tabs - YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qkVutYonQhM)\n- [Creating an EPS Surfboard Blank - Otter Bite Part 2 - YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u3uol95L0H8)\n- [I Broke My Surfboard fins So I Remade Them - YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6hPlnHdLes4)\n\n## Opensource Designs\n\n- [BoardCAD - open source CAD-program for surfboards - swaylocks](https://forum.swaylocks.com/t/boardcad-open-source-cad-program-for-surfboards/24788)\n- [DIY Injection Molding : 9 Steps (with Pictures) - Instructables](https://www.instructables.com/DIY-Injection-Molding/)\n\n## Community Forums\n\n- [SWAYLOCKS Fin Molding Discussion](https://forum.swaylocks.com/t/molding-fins-topic/41310)\n\n## Products\n\n- [Surfboard Fin Mould - [filtered] Melbourne](https://www.plastic.org.au/products/mould-surfboard-fin)", - "brief": "Create surf fin molds with this tutorial: design models, laser-cut stainless steel, inject plastic waste, and refine edges for optimized surfing performance." + "content": "Preciós Plàstic València will show you a simple technique to make a mould for producing recycled surf fins.\n\nThis include how to prepare the 2D/3D model for laser cutting, how to inject the plastic waste, and how to finish the product.\n\nIn this folder you will find:\n3D CAD (.step and .f3d)\nLaser cut files (.dxf)\nBlueprints (.pdf)\n\n\nUser Location: Valencia, Spain\n\nAs a first step you have to design the correct dimensions for your fin, your design must meet the requirements of surfboards.\n\nThe most important dimensions are the area that connect the fin with the surfboard, could have dimensional variations. Check the width, height and thickness (thickness comes from the size/thickness of the stainless steel sheet, in our case 6mm). The top and bottom pieces we recommend 10mm thickness.\n\nYou can download the .DXF and the .F3D files, just modify/check these measurements.\n\nOnce you have the correct sizes, then you will need to export each draw (3 in total) in .DXF file format. These files you will need to laser cut in stainless steel, we use a local laser cutting company, because these machines are industrial (the price shouldn't be too expensive). \n\nTell the company we need a M8 thread in the middle of the top piece. If they can not do it, you can also weld a M8 nut. This is for connecting the injection nozzle with the mould, check with your machine\n\nOnce you have your laser cutted mould, it's time to fill it with plastic waste!\n\nYou will need seven M8x40 screws (or longer), in order to close the 3 mould layers.\nAs we commented, we use a M8 nut to connect the mould to the injection machine, you can play with different injection point positions. If you don't have a thread in your injection machine, you can just use the hole/injection point without thread.\n\nWe recommend to use recycled PP, as the PE tends to break easily.\n\nAs we are using a laser cutted mould, the edges are straight, so it is not hydrodynamic and could be a problem for surfing. We need to remove these straight edges, so we have to sand it, now the craft comes!\n\nIn order to keep the center line in the middle, and don't deform the verticality, just draw a line across the edge, and an offset perimeter in both faces, to don't remove too much material. We use a rotatory tool, use safety glasses and mask!\n\nIf we wanted to skip this step, we would need a CNC mould, more expensive than this one. But the object will inject with the hydrodynamic shape, without necessity of sanding.\n\nYou can use a electric sand machine, it will help you to save a lot of time. Starting sanding with big grain to remove a big part (120), then we'll sand with medium grain (320), and for finishing small grain (800). The grain is just a reference, you can try with different grains, even you can polish (grain 3000 or more).\n\nFor finishing, We do a quick heat to improve the surface." } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/tips--tricks-for-furniture-development/README.md b/howtos/tips--tricks-for-furniture-development/README.md index 860bc576a..8df082160 100644 --- a/howtos/tips--tricks-for-furniture-development/README.md +++ b/howtos/tips--tricks-for-furniture-development/README.md @@ -1,42 +1,43 @@ --- title: Tips & Tricks for furniture development. slug: tips--tricks-for-furniture-development -description: Achieving a smooth and glossy finish is essential. The aim is to make plastics appear attractive and high-quality. +description: Having a smooth and shiny finish is what we all look for. Our goal should be to make recycled plastics look precious so that they can be seen as an attractive and high-quality alternative. -We outline the process to create an HDPE cradle that can be transformed into two rocking chairs. Tips and techniques are provided to attain a shiny finish and conceal screws or fixings effectively. +Here we provide the process we followed to develop an HDPE cradle that transforms into two rocking chairs once it is no longer in use. Tips and tricks are shared to achieve a smooth and shiny finish and hide the screws or fixings as much as possible. tags: ["HDPE","product"] category: Products difficulty: Medium time: < 1 week -keywords: Smooth finish, glossy finish, HDPE cradle, rocking chairs, Blue Phoenix Plastic Mexico, CNC router settings, plastic sheet manufacturing, concealed screws, surface finishing techniques. +keywords: location: Ensenada, Mexico --- # Tips & Tricks for furniture development. ![Tips & Tricks for furniture development.](NEON--EXPLOTED-180125828e0.png) -Achieving a smooth and glossy finish is essential. The aim is to make plastics appear attractive and high-quality. +Having a smooth and shiny finish is what we all look for. Our goal should be to make recycled plastics look precious so that they can be seen as an attractive and high-quality alternative. -We outline the process to create an HDPE cradle that can be transformed into two rocking chairs. Tips and techniques are provided to attain a shiny finish and conceal screws or fixings effectively. +Here we provide the process we followed to develop an HDPE cradle that transforms into two rocking chairs once it is no longer in use. Tips and tricks are shared to achieve a smooth and shiny finish and hide the screws or fixings as much as possible. User Location: Ensenada, Mexico ## Steps ### Step 1: The whole process summarized in a 1-minute video. -### Assembly and Finishing Process - -This video outlines the steps involved in assembling and finishing the cradle. The following instructions cover essential details about the materials and tools used. +This video shows the process followed for the assembly and final finishing of the cradle. However, the next steps will go over some important facts and the materials and tools that were used. ### Step 2: Sheet manufacturing and CNC parameters. -The process was developed by Blue Phoenix Plastic Mexico. The method of manufacturing plastic sheets affects the surface finish. To achieve a smooth finish, apply a mold release and use a polished surface. +All this process was developed by Blue Phoenix Plastic Mexico (instagram.com: instagram.com/bluephoenixplasticmx/). + +The sheet manufacturing itself requires a special how-to. However, it's worth noting that the manner plastic sheets are made has an impact on the surface finish. Applying a mould release to the steel surface as well as having a polished surface can give a very smooth and nice finish to the plastic sheet with no extra work. CNC parameters: -- CNC Router: Makita 3709, 110 V, 530 W, 30,000 rpm. -- CNC Router Bit: ARMG-808-L Melin Tool (1 Flute, Carbide, Dia: 1/4 in, LOC: 1-1/4 in, OAL: 3 in, Shank: 1/4 in, Single End, Helix 30°). +- CNC Router: Makita 3709 110 V 530 W 30,000 rpm. +- CNC Router Bit: ARMG-808-L Melin Tool (1 Flute, Carbide, Dia: 1/4", LOC: 1-1/4", OAL: 3", Shank: 1/4", Single End, Helix 30°). - Spindle Speed: 30,000 rpm. -- Cutting Feedrate: 94.5 in/min (2400 mm/min). -- Plunge Feedrate: 11.8 in/min (300 mm/min). -- Maximum Roughing Stepdown: 0.047 in (1.2 mm). +- Cutting Feedrate: 2400 mm/min. +- Plunge Feedrate: 300 mm/min. +- Maximum Roughing Stepdown: 1.2 mm. + ![IMG_5387-1801653f35d.jpg](./IMG_5387-1801653f35d.jpg) @@ -46,24 +47,24 @@ CNC parameters: ### Step 3: Achieve a specific and constant thickness. -When producing plastic sheets, thickness may vary between batches. If a specific thickness is required, a wood planer can be used. +When making plastic sheets, it is usual for the thickness of the sheet to vary from batch to batch. The final depth may or may not be relevant, depending on the final product. However, if the design calls for a specific thickness, a wood planner is an option. -Save the plastic remnants, as they are ready for future use. In this project, these remnants were utilized for the next step. +Remember to always save the plastic leftovers as they are already in small particles ready to be recycled for a further project. Nonetheless, for the purpose of this project, the plastic leftovers were used for the next step. Hardware: -- Ryobi AP-10 planer. +Ryobi AP-10 planer. ![Image2-180169d22a0.jpg](./Image2-180169d22a0.jpg) ### Step 4: Repair bubbles or holes inside or on the sheet. -Even industrially produced recycled plastic sheets may have imperfections. These can be repaired using the same material. +Even industrial recycled plastic sheet production may have imperfections inside or on the sheet. Luckily, there is always a way to repair and fill them with the same material. -Employ a heat gun or hair dryer and shape leftover material into a ball slightly larger than the hole. Pre-heat the affected area and, using a flathead screwdriver, press the plastic ball into the hole, applying additional heat if necessary. +Use a heat gun or a hair dryer and the leftovers to make a ball a bit bigger than the hole to fill. Pre-heat the area to be filled and, with the help of a flathead screwdriver, start pushing the plastic ball inside the hole (use the heat gun in this process if needed). -Leave extra material to ensure complete filling; excess can be sanded off. +It's best to leave extra material to ensure the hole is completely filled. You can always sand off excess material. ![Image3-180169e116e.jpg](./Image3-180169e116e.jpg) @@ -76,11 +77,9 @@ Leave extra material to ensure complete filling; excess can be sanded off. ### Step 5: General sanding. -### Surface Finishing Process +This process depends on the quality of the HDPE sheet surface. If the surface is not as smooth as desired, you can sand it by hand or with the help of a band sander and/or an orbital sander. Because we used a wood planer to achieve a specific thickness, we got a rough surface and had to start using 220 wet-dry sandpaper. This was the range of grits used: 220, 320, 400, 800, 1200, 2000. -The quality of the HDPE sheet's surface affects the finishing process. If the surface is rough, it can be sanded manually or with a band or orbital sander. Using a wood planer for a specific thickness may result in a rough surface, necessitating the use of wet-dry sandpaper. We used grits in this order: 220, 320, 400, 800, 1200, 2000. - -For a smooth edge finish, utilize a worn belt on a band sander. Applying pressure against the rotating belt can melt the rough edge, resulting in a smooth finish within seconds. +Something that also works for having a super smooth finish on the edges is using a sand bander with a fully used belt (worn). If you apply force against the used belt while it is rotating, instead of sanding the edge, it is going to start melting the rough edge in such a way that after a couple of seconds you will feel a nice smooth finish (see photos 2 and 3). ![Image6-180169b220e.jpg](./Image6-180169b220e.jpg) @@ -93,16 +92,14 @@ For a smooth edge finish, utilize a worn belt on a band sander. Applying pressur ### Step 6: Getting rid of TABS post CNC cutting. -### Process for Removing Tabs and Smoothing Edges +This step only applies when sheets are cut with CNC leaving TABS that maintain the piece attached to the sheet for transportation. However, this step might also help get a smooth finish on the edges. -This step applies to sheets cut with CNC leaving tabs for attachment during transportation. It also ensures smooth edge finishes. +It was used a CNC Router at 35,000 rpm and a flush-tipped CNC Router bit to get rid of the tabs. This process also helped achieve a super smooth finish on the edges, which can get a bit rough after several passes of the CNC cutting process. -Using a CNC Router at 35,000 RPM with a flush trim CNC Router bit effectively removes the tabs and refines the edges. +Hardware: -#### Required Tools: - -- Amana Tool - 47100 Carbide Tipped Flush Trim 3/8" Diameter x 1/4" Shank -- Bosch CNC Router, Colt 1-Horsepower, 5.6 Amp, Electronic Variable-Speed, Model PR20EVS +- Amana Tool - 47100 Carbide Tipped Flush Trim 3/8" Dia x 1/4" Shank +- Bosch CNC Router Tool, Colt 1-Horsepower 5.6 Amp Electronic Variable-Speed Palm CNC Router PR20EVS ![Image10-18016b25622.jpg](./Image10-18016b25622.jpg) @@ -115,11 +112,11 @@ Using a CNC Router at 35,000 RPM with a flush trim CNC Router bit effectively re ### Step 7: Strategic location of screws and fixings. -The design process is fundamental, even though it is interlinked with subsequent steps. +The design process should always be the first step. However, as this step is connected to the following, it was decided to be here. -Concealing screws and fixings can create a seamless appearance. An important design choice involves selecting the material and head type of screws. For this furniture, stainless steel flathead socket screws were used. +Hidding screws and fixings is a good idea if you are willing to make your product look like a monolithic item. An important design decision is whether to choose between different screw materials and head types. For the purpose of this furniture, it was decided to use stainless steel flathead socket screws. -It is important to plan screw placement to ensure they remain hidden or less visible during use. In this instance, the sides of the rocking chairs were divided into two profiles. This approach conceals the structural screws with an additional profile, enhancing mechanical strength while providing an exterior without visible screws. +It is worth spending some time thinking through and deciding where to locate the screws so that they are hidden or not visible when the product is in use (as much as possible). In this case, it was decided to divide the sides of the rocking chairs into two profiles so that the structural screws would be hidden by a second profile, which is intended to reinforce the mechanical stresses of the chairs and show a screwless finish from an exterior perspective. ![DESPIECE 1-18016c735cb.jpg](./DESPIECE_1-18016c735cb.jpg) @@ -129,9 +126,9 @@ It is important to plan screw placement to ensure they remain hidden or less vis ### Step 8: Screws installation. -This process can be completed using a CNC machine. However, due to varying thicknesses in the plastic sheets, it was done manually. +This process can be done by a CNC. However, as we knew that the thickness varies on recycled plastic sheets, it was decided to do it by hand. -A countersink bit was employed to ensure the screw head is level with the sheet. +A countersink bit was used to make room for the screw head to be flush (same level as the sheet). ![Image11-18016e48038.jpg](./Image11-18016e48038.jpg) @@ -144,13 +141,13 @@ A countersink bit was employed to ensure the screw head is level with the sheet. ### Step 9: Photo shoot. -A well-presented product requires high-quality photos to showcase the craftsmanship involved. +A [filtered] product deserves attractive photos so that the community and the people can appreciate the hard work behind it. -Lighting is paramount in photography, surpassing even camera quality. +Lighting is by far the most important thing when taking photos, even above the camera's quality.  -For photographing small items, use colorful cardboard and find an outdoor area with ample lighting. Capture multiple angles to have a range of options. +If you have a small product you want to photograph, get a colorful cardboard, look for an outdoor space with good lighting, and take as many photos from different angles as you can. It is better to have options. -For an example, see our Instagram reel of a photo shoot for a screwless plant mold [here](https://www.instagram.com/p/CbCgXJClI3f/). +You can see an instagram reel of a photo shoot we did for a screwless plant mould here: instagram.com: instagram.com/p/CbCgXJClI3f ![20220326_194529-18017003d13.jpg](./20220326_194529-18017003d13.jpg) @@ -162,44 +159,4 @@ For an example, see our Instagram reel of a photo shoot for a screwless plant mo ![20220312_145518-18017005b61.jpg](./20220312_145518-18017005b61.jpg) ## Resources -### Hardware - -- Makita 3709 CNC CNC Router (110V, 530W, 30,000 rpm) -- Ryobi AP-10 Planer -- Band/Orbital Sander (for surface smoothing) -- Bosch PR20EVS CNC CNC Router (5.6A, variable-speed) - -### Tools - -- Melin Tool ARMG-808-L CNC Router Bit (1-flute carbide, 1/4" shank) -- Amana Tool 47100 Flush Trim Bit (3/8" diameter, carbide-tipped) -- Heat Gun/Hair Dryer (for plastic repairs) -- Flathead Screwdriver (for filling imperfections) -- Countersink Bit (for flush screw placement) -## References -## References - -### Articles - -- [Finishing Plastic · [filtered] Toolbox](https://[filtered].github.io/academy/create/finishing) [1] -- [Surface Finish on CNC Plastic Parts - e-architect](https://www.e-architect.com/articles/surface-finish-on-cnc-plastic-parts) [2] -- [HDPE Smooth Sheet - A&C Plastics](https://www.acplasticsinc.com/categories/hdpe-smooth-sheet) [7] -- [HDPE Injection Molding Service - RapidDirect](https://www.rapiddirect.com/materials/hdpe-injection-molding-service/) [10] -- [HDPE Molding Guide - Immould](https://www.immould.com/hdpe-molding/) [11] -- [How Are HDPE Sheets Made?](https://www.ningeplastics.com/blog/how-are-hdpe-sheets-made) [12] - -### Papers - -- [A Guide to Polyolefin Blow Molding (PDF)](https://www.lyondellbasell.com/492c5b/globalassets/documents/polymers-technical-literature/a-guide-to-polyolefin-blow-molding.pdf) [18] -- [Vacuum Forming Guide (PDF)](https://www.advancedtek.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/Vacuum-Forming-Guide.pdf) [19] - -### Open-Source Designs - -- [Open Source Hardware Plastic Granulator - Appropedia](https://www.appropedia.org/Open_Source_Hardware_Enterprise_Plastic_Granulator) [13] -- [[filtered] by Dave Hakkens](https://www.designboom.com/technology/precious-plastic-dave-hakkens-recycling-workshop-06-02-2014/) [14] -- [Distributed Design Lab: Recycled Plastic Injection Molding](https://distributeddesign.eu/bridging-the-gap-between-3d-printing-and-small-scale-batch-production-with-open-source-plastic-recycling-machines/) [15] -- [RepRapable Recyclebot](https://reprap.org/wiki/RepRapable_Recyclebot:_Open_source_3-D_printable_extruder_for_converting_plastic_to_3-D_printing_filament) [16] - -### Guides/Manuals - -- [Field Installation Handbook: HDPE Products (PDF)](https://assets.victaulic.com/assets/uploads/literature/I-900.pdf) [17] \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/tips--tricks-for-furniture-development/config.json b/howtos/tips--tricks-for-furniture-development/config.json index f6bc1e873..012019d49 100644 --- a/howtos/tips--tricks-for-furniture-development/config.json +++ b/howtos/tips--tricks-for-furniture-development/config.json @@ -21,7 +21,7 @@ "src": "C:\\Users\\zx\\Desktop\\osr\\osr-machines\\howtos\\tips--tricks-for-furniture-development\\neon--exploted-180125828e0.png" }, "_contentModifiedTimestamp": "2023-06-14T11:02:17.746Z", - "description": "Achieving a smooth and glossy finish is essential. The aim is to make plastics appear attractive and high-quality.\n\nWe outline the process to create an HDPE cradle that can be transformed into two rocking chairs. Tips and techniques are provided to attain a shiny finish and conceal screws or fixings effectively.", + "description": "Having a smooth and shiny finish is what we all look for. Our goal should be to make recycled plastics look precious so that they can be seen as an attractive and high-quality alternative.\n\nHere we provide the process we followed to develop an HDPE cradle that transforms into two rocking chairs once it is no longer in use. Tips and tricks are shared to achieve a smooth and shiny finish and hide the screws or fixings as much as possible.", "difficulty_level": "Medium", "_deleted": false, "total_downloads": 0, @@ -66,7 +66,7 @@ ], "steps": [ { - "text": "### Assembly and Finishing Process\n\nThis video outlines the steps involved in assembling and finishing the cradle. The following instructions cover essential details about the materials and tools used.", + "text": "This video shows the process followed for the assembly and final finishing of the cradle. However, the next steps will go over some important facts and the materials and tools that were used.", "_animationKey": "unique1", "videoUrl": "https://youtu.be/ZAsalzy-yiw", "images": [], @@ -74,7 +74,7 @@ }, { "_animationKey": "unique2", - "text": "The process was developed by Blue Phoenix Plastic Mexico. The method of manufacturing plastic sheets affects the surface finish. To achieve a smooth finish, apply a mold release and use a polished surface.\n\nCNC parameters:\n\n- CNC Router: Makita 3709, 110 V, 530 W, 30,000 rpm.\n- CNC Router Bit: ARMG-808-L Melin Tool (1 Flute, Carbide, Dia: 1/4 in, LOC: 1-1/4 in, OAL: 3 in, Shank: 1/4 in, Single End, Helix 30°).\n- Spindle Speed: 30,000 rpm.\n- Cutting Feedrate: 94.5 in/min (2400 mm/min).\n- Plunge Feedrate: 11.8 in/min (300 mm/min).\n- Maximum Roughing Stepdown: 0.047 in (1.2 mm).", + "text": "All this process was developed by Blue Phoenix Plastic Mexico (instagram.com: instagram.com/bluephoenixplasticmx/). \n\nThe sheet manufacturing itself requires a special how-to. However, it's worth noting that the manner plastic sheets are made has an impact on the surface finish. Applying a mould release to the steel surface as well as having a polished surface can give a very smooth and nice finish to the plastic sheet with no extra work.\n\nCNC parameters:\n\n- CNC Router: Makita 3709 110 V 530 W 30,000 rpm.\n- CNC Router Bit: ARMG-808-L Melin Tool (1 Flute, Carbide, Dia: 1/4\", LOC: 1-1/4\", OAL: 3\", Shank: 1/4\", Single End, Helix 30°).\n- Spindle Speed: 30,000 rpm.\n- Cutting Feedrate: 2400 mm/min.\n- Plunge Feedrate: 300 mm/min.\n- Maximum Roughing Stepdown: 1.2 mm.\n", "title": "Sheet manufacturing and CNC parameters.", "images": [ { @@ -120,11 +120,11 @@ "alt": "Image2-180169d22a0.jpg" } ], - "text": "When producing plastic sheets, thickness may vary between batches. If a specific thickness is required, a wood planer can be used.\n\nSave the plastic remnants, as they are ready for future use. In this project, these remnants were utilized for the next step.\n\nHardware:\n\n- Ryobi AP-10 planer." + "text": "When making plastic sheets, it is usual for the thickness of the sheet to vary from batch to batch. The final depth may or may not be relevant, depending on the final product. However, if the design calls for a specific thickness, a wood planner is an option.\n\nRemember to always save the plastic leftovers as they are already in small particles ready to be recycled for a further project. Nonetheless, for the purpose of this project, the plastic leftovers were used for the next step.\n\nHardware:\n\nRyobi AP-10 planer." }, { "title": "Repair bubbles or holes inside or on the sheet.", - "text": "Even industrially produced recycled plastic sheets may have imperfections. These can be repaired using the same material.\n\nEmploy a heat gun or hair dryer and shape leftover material into a ball slightly larger than the hole. Pre-heat the affected area and, using a flathead screwdriver, press the plastic ball into the hole, applying additional heat if necessary.\n\nLeave extra material to ensure complete filling; excess can be sanded off.", + "text": "Even industrial recycled plastic sheet production may have imperfections inside or on the sheet. Luckily, there is always a way to repair and fill them with the same material.\n\nUse a heat gun or a hair dryer and the leftovers to make a ball a bit bigger than the hole to fill. Pre-heat the area to be filled and, with the help of a flathead screwdriver, start pushing the plastic ball inside the hole (use the heat gun in this process if needed).\n\nIt's best to leave extra material to ensure the hole is completely filled. You can always sand off excess material.", "_animationKey": "uniqueq2mob", "images": [ { @@ -168,7 +168,7 @@ { "_animationKey": "uniquenl522f", "title": "General sanding.", - "text": "### Surface Finishing Process\n\nThe quality of the HDPE sheet's surface affects the finishing process. If the surface is rough, it can be sanded manually or with a band or orbital sander. Using a wood planer for a specific thickness may result in a rough surface, necessitating the use of wet-dry sandpaper. We used grits in this order: 220, 320, 400, 800, 1200, 2000.\n\nFor a smooth edge finish, utilize a worn belt on a band sander. Applying pressure against the rotating belt can melt the rough edge, resulting in a smooth finish within seconds.", + "text": "This process depends on the quality of the HDPE sheet surface. If the surface is not as smooth as desired, you can sand it by hand or with the help of a band sander and/or an orbital sander. Because we used a wood planer to achieve a specific thickness, we got a rough surface and had to start using 220 wet-dry sandpaper. This was the range of grits used: 220, 320, 400, 800, 1200, 2000.\n\nSomething that also works for having a super smooth finish on the edges is using a sand bander with a fully used belt (worn). If you apply force against the used belt while it is rotating, instead of sanding the edge, it is going to start melting the rough edge in such a way that after a couple of seconds you will feel a nice smooth finish (see photos 2 and 3).", "images": [ { "timeCreated": "2022-04-11T05:02:52.808Z", @@ -209,7 +209,7 @@ ] }, { - "text": "### Process for Removing Tabs and Smoothing Edges\n\nThis step applies to sheets cut with CNC leaving tabs for attachment during transportation. It also ensures smooth edge finishes.\n\nUsing a CNC Router at 35,000 RPM with a flush trim CNC Router bit effectively removes the tabs and refines the edges.\n\n#### Required Tools:\n\n- Amana Tool - 47100 Carbide Tipped Flush Trim 3/8\" Diameter x 1/4\" Shank\n- Bosch CNC Router, Colt 1-Horsepower, 5.6 Amp, Electronic Variable-Speed, Model PR20EVS", + "text": "This step only applies when sheets are cut with CNC leaving TABS that maintain the piece attached to the sheet for transportation. However, this step might also help get a smooth finish on the edges.\n\nIt was used a CNC Router at 35,000 rpm and a flush-tipped CNC Router bit to get rid of the tabs. This process also helped achieve a super smooth finish on the edges, which can get a bit rough after several passes of the CNC cutting process.\n\nHardware:\n\n- Amana Tool - 47100 Carbide Tipped Flush Trim 3/8\" Dia x 1/4\" Shank \n- Bosch CNC Router Tool, Colt 1-Horsepower 5.6 Amp Electronic Variable-Speed Palm CNC Router PR20EVS", "title": "Getting rid of TABS post CNC cutting.", "_animationKey": "uniquezym96", "images": [ @@ -253,7 +253,7 @@ }, { "_animationKey": "uniqueq7ex6a", - "text": "The design process is fundamental, even though it is interlinked with subsequent steps.\n\nConcealing screws and fixings can create a seamless appearance. An important design choice involves selecting the material and head type of screws. For this furniture, stainless steel flathead socket screws were used.\n\nIt is important to plan screw placement to ensure they remain hidden or less visible during use. In this instance, the sides of the rocking chairs were divided into two profiles. This approach conceals the structural screws with an additional profile, enhancing mechanical strength while providing an exterior without visible screws.", + "text": "The design process should always be the first step. However, as this step is connected to the following, it was decided to be here.\n\nHidding screws and fixings is a good idea if you are willing to make your product look like a monolithic item. An important design decision is whether to choose between different screw materials and head types. For the purpose of this furniture, it was decided to use stainless steel flathead socket screws.\n\nIt is worth spending some time thinking through and deciding where to locate the screws so that they are hidden or not visible when the product is in use (as much as possible). In this case, it was decided to divide the sides of the rocking chairs into two profiles so that the structural screws would be hidden by a second profile, which is intended to reinforce the mechanical stresses of the chairs and show a screwless finish from an exterior perspective.", "title": "Strategic location of screws and fixings.", "images": [ { @@ -284,7 +284,7 @@ }, { "title": "Screws installation.", - "text": "This process can be completed using a CNC machine. However, due to varying thicknesses in the plastic sheets, it was done manually.\n\nA countersink bit was employed to ensure the screw head is level with the sheet.", + "text": "This process can be done by a CNC. However, as we knew that the thickness varies on recycled plastic sheets, it was decided to do it by hand.\n\nA countersink bit was used to make room for the screw head to be flush (same level as the sheet).", "images": [ { "fullPath": "uploads/howtos/KknTu1EXNRD1C4qxAMma/Image11-18016e48038.jpg", @@ -327,7 +327,7 @@ }, { "title": "Photo shoot.", - "text": "A well-presented product requires high-quality photos to showcase the craftsmanship involved. \n\nLighting is paramount in photography, surpassing even camera quality.\n\nFor photographing small items, use colorful cardboard and find an outdoor area with ample lighting. Capture multiple angles to have a range of options. \n\nFor an example, see our Instagram reel of a photo shoot for a screwless plant mold [here](https://www.instagram.com/p/CbCgXJClI3f/).", + "text": "A [filtered] product deserves attractive photos so that the community and the people can appreciate the hard work behind it.\n\nLighting is by far the most important thing when taking photos, even above the camera's quality. \n\nIf you have a small product you want to photograph, get a colorful cardboard, look for an outdoor space with good lighting, and take as many photos from different angles as you can. It is better to have options.\n\nYou can see an instagram reel of a photo shoot we did for a screwless plant mould here: instagram.com: instagram.com/p/CbCgXJClI3f", "_animationKey": "uniquevzegqh", "images": [ { @@ -511,9 +511,5 @@ "images": [] } }, - "content": "Achieving a smooth and glossy finish is essential. The aim is to make plastics appear attractive and high-quality.\n\nWe outline the process to create an HDPE cradle that can be transformed into two rocking chairs. Tips and techniques are provided to attain a shiny finish and conceal screws or fixings effectively.\n\n\nUser Location: Ensenada, Mexico\n\n### Assembly and Finishing Process\n\nThis video outlines the steps involved in assembling and finishing the cradle. The following instructions cover essential details about the materials and tools used.\n\nThe process was developed by Blue Phoenix Plastic Mexico. The method of manufacturing plastic sheets affects the surface finish. To achieve a smooth finish, apply a mold release and use a polished surface.\n\nCNC parameters:\n\n- CNC Router: Makita 3709, 110 V, 530 W, 30,000 rpm.\n- CNC Router Bit: ARMG-808-L Melin Tool (1 Flute, Carbide, Dia: 1/4 in, LOC: 1-1/4 in, OAL: 3 in, Shank: 1/4 in, Single End, Helix 30°).\n- Spindle Speed: 30,000 rpm.\n- Cutting Feedrate: 94.5 in/min (2400 mm/min).\n- Plunge Feedrate: 11.8 in/min (300 mm/min).\n- Maximum Roughing Stepdown: 0.047 in (1.2 mm).\n\nWhen producing plastic sheets, thickness may vary between batches. If a specific thickness is required, a wood planer can be used.\n\nSave the plastic remnants, as they are ready for future use. In this project, these remnants were utilized for the next step.\n\nHardware:\n\n- Ryobi AP-10 planer.\n\nEven industrially produced recycled plastic sheets may have imperfections. These can be repaired using the same material.\n\nEmploy a heat gun or hair dryer and shape leftover material into a ball slightly larger than the hole. Pre-heat the affected area and, using a flathead screwdriver, press the plastic ball into the hole, applying additional heat if necessary.\n\nLeave extra material to ensure complete filling; excess can be sanded off.\n\n### Surface Finishing Process\n\nThe quality of the HDPE sheet's surface affects the finishing process. If the surface is rough, it can be sanded manually or with a band or orbital sander. Using a wood planer for a specific thickness may result in a rough surface, necessitating the use of wet-dry sandpaper. We used grits in this order: 220, 320, 400, 800, 1200, 2000.\n\nFor a smooth edge finish, utilize a worn belt on a band sander. Applying pressure against the rotating belt can melt the rough edge, resulting in a smooth finish within seconds.\n\n### Process for Removing Tabs and Smoothing Edges\n\nThis step applies to sheets cut with CNC leaving tabs for attachment during transportation. It also ensures smooth edge finishes.\n\nUsing a CNC Router at 35,000 RPM with a flush trim CNC Router bit effectively removes the tabs and refines the edges.\n\n#### Required Tools:\n\n- Amana Tool - 47100 Carbide Tipped Flush Trim 3/8\" Diameter x 1/4\" Shank\n- Bosch CNC Router, Colt 1-Horsepower, 5.6 Amp, Electronic Variable-Speed, Model PR20EVS\n\nThe design process is fundamental, even though it is interlinked with subsequent steps.\n\nConcealing screws and fixings can create a seamless appearance. An important design choice involves selecting the material and head type of screws. For this furniture, stainless steel flathead socket screws were used.\n\nIt is important to plan screw placement to ensure they remain hidden or less visible during use. In this instance, the sides of the rocking chairs were divided into two profiles. This approach conceals the structural screws with an additional profile, enhancing mechanical strength while providing an exterior without visible screws.\n\nThis process can be completed using a CNC machine. However, due to varying thicknesses in the plastic sheets, it was done manually.\n\nA countersink bit was employed to ensure the screw head is level with the sheet.\n\nA well-presented product requires high-quality photos to showcase the craftsmanship involved. \n\nLighting is paramount in photography, surpassing even camera quality.\n\nFor photographing small items, use colorful cardboard and find an outdoor area with ample lighting. Capture multiple angles to have a range of options. \n\nFor an example, see our Instagram reel of a photo shoot for a screwless plant mold [here](https://www.instagram.com/p/CbCgXJClI3f/).", - "keywords": "Smooth finish, glossy finish, HDPE cradle, rocking chairs, Blue Phoenix Plastic Mexico, CNC router settings, plastic sheet manufacturing, concealed screws, surface finishing techniques.", - "resources": "### Hardware\n\n- Makita 3709 CNC CNC Router (110V, 530W, 30,000 rpm)\n- Ryobi AP-10 Planer\n- Band/Orbital Sander (for surface smoothing)\n- Bosch PR20EVS CNC CNC Router (5.6A, variable-speed)\n\n### Tools\n\n- Melin Tool ARMG-808-L CNC Router Bit (1-flute carbide, 1/4\" shank)\n- Amana Tool 47100 Flush Trim Bit (3/8\" diameter, carbide-tipped)\n- Heat Gun/Hair Dryer (for plastic repairs)\n- Flathead Screwdriver (for filling imperfections)\n- Countersink Bit (for flush screw placement)", - "references": "## References\n\n### Articles\n\n- [Finishing Plastic · [filtered] Toolbox](https://[filtered].github.io/academy/create/finishing) [1]\n- [Surface Finish on CNC Plastic Parts - e-architect](https://www.e-architect.com/articles/surface-finish-on-cnc-plastic-parts) [2]\n- [HDPE Smooth Sheet - A&C Plastics](https://www.acplasticsinc.com/categories/hdpe-smooth-sheet) [7]\n- [HDPE Injection Molding Service - RapidDirect](https://www.rapiddirect.com/materials/hdpe-injection-molding-service/) [10]\n- [HDPE Molding Guide - Immould](https://www.immould.com/hdpe-molding/) [11]\n- [How Are HDPE Sheets Made?](https://www.ningeplastics.com/blog/how-are-hdpe-sheets-made) [12]\n\n### Papers\n\n- [A Guide to Polyolefin Blow Molding (PDF)](https://www.lyondellbasell.com/492c5b/globalassets/documents/polymers-technical-literature/a-guide-to-polyolefin-blow-molding.pdf) [18]\n- [Vacuum Forming Guide (PDF)](https://www.advancedtek.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/Vacuum-Forming-Guide.pdf) [19]\n\n### Open-Source Designs\n\n- [Open Source Hardware Plastic Granulator - Appropedia](https://www.appropedia.org/Open_Source_Hardware_Enterprise_Plastic_Granulator) [13]\n- [[filtered] by Dave Hakkens](https://www.designboom.com/technology/precious-plastic-dave-hakkens-recycling-workshop-06-02-2014/) [14]\n- [Distributed Design Lab: Recycled Plastic Injection Molding](https://distributeddesign.eu/bridging-the-gap-between-3d-printing-and-small-scale-batch-production-with-open-source-plastic-recycling-machines/) [15]\n- [RepRapable Recyclebot](https://reprap.org/wiki/RepRapable_Recyclebot:_Open_source_3-D_printable_extruder_for_converting_plastic_to_3-D_printing_filament) [16]\n\n### Guides/Manuals\n\n- [Field Installation Handbook: HDPE Products (PDF)](https://assets.victaulic.com/assets/uploads/literature/I-900.pdf) [17]", - "brief": "Transform HDPE into rocking chairs with our detailed assembly guide. Learn how to achieve a seamless, glossy finish while concealing screws for a polished look." + "content": "Having a smooth and shiny finish is what we all look for. Our goal should be to make recycled plastics look precious so that they can be seen as an attractive and high-quality alternative.\n\nHere we provide the process we followed to develop an HDPE cradle that transforms into two rocking chairs once it is no longer in use. Tips and tricks are shared to achieve a smooth and shiny finish and hide the screws or fixings as much as possible.\n\n\nUser Location: Ensenada, Mexico\n\nThis video shows the process followed for the assembly and final finishing of the cradle. However, the next steps will go over some important facts and the materials and tools that were used.\n\nAll this process was developed by Blue Phoenix Plastic Mexico (instagram.com: instagram.com/bluephoenixplasticmx/). \n\nThe sheet manufacturing itself requires a special how-to. However, it's worth noting that the manner plastic sheets are made has an impact on the surface finish. Applying a mould release to the steel surface as well as having a polished surface can give a very smooth and nice finish to the plastic sheet with no extra work.\n\nCNC parameters:\n\n- CNC Router: Makita 3709 110 V 530 W 30,000 rpm.\n- CNC Router Bit: ARMG-808-L Melin Tool (1 Flute, Carbide, Dia: 1/4\", LOC: 1-1/4\", OAL: 3\", Shank: 1/4\", Single End, Helix 30°).\n- Spindle Speed: 30,000 rpm.\n- Cutting Feedrate: 2400 mm/min.\n- Plunge Feedrate: 300 mm/min.\n- Maximum Roughing Stepdown: 1.2 mm.\n\n\nWhen making plastic sheets, it is usual for the thickness of the sheet to vary from batch to batch. The final depth may or may not be relevant, depending on the final product. However, if the design calls for a specific thickness, a wood planner is an option.\n\nRemember to always save the plastic leftovers as they are already in small particles ready to be recycled for a further project. Nonetheless, for the purpose of this project, the plastic leftovers were used for the next step.\n\nHardware:\n\nRyobi AP-10 planer.\n\nEven industrial recycled plastic sheet production may have imperfections inside or on the sheet. Luckily, there is always a way to repair and fill them with the same material.\n\nUse a heat gun or a hair dryer and the leftovers to make a ball a bit bigger than the hole to fill. Pre-heat the area to be filled and, with the help of a flathead screwdriver, start pushing the plastic ball inside the hole (use the heat gun in this process if needed).\n\nIt's best to leave extra material to ensure the hole is completely filled. You can always sand off excess material.\n\nThis process depends on the quality of the HDPE sheet surface. If the surface is not as smooth as desired, you can sand it by hand or with the help of a band sander and/or an orbital sander. Because we used a wood planer to achieve a specific thickness, we got a rough surface and had to start using 220 wet-dry sandpaper. This was the range of grits used: 220, 320, 400, 800, 1200, 2000.\n\nSomething that also works for having a super smooth finish on the edges is using a sand bander with a fully used belt (worn). If you apply force against the used belt while it is rotating, instead of sanding the edge, it is going to start melting the rough edge in such a way that after a couple of seconds you will feel a nice smooth finish (see photos 2 and 3).\n\nThis step only applies when sheets are cut with CNC leaving TABS that maintain the piece attached to the sheet for transportation. However, this step might also help get a smooth finish on the edges.\n\nIt was used a CNC Router at 35,000 rpm and a flush-tipped CNC Router bit to get rid of the tabs. This process also helped achieve a super smooth finish on the edges, which can get a bit rough after several passes of the CNC cutting process.\n\nHardware:\n\n- Amana Tool - 47100 Carbide Tipped Flush Trim 3/8\" Dia x 1/4\" Shank \n- Bosch CNC Router Tool, Colt 1-Horsepower 5.6 Amp Electronic Variable-Speed Palm CNC Router PR20EVS\n\nThe design process should always be the first step. However, as this step is connected to the following, it was decided to be here.\n\nHidding screws and fixings is a good idea if you are willing to make your product look like a monolithic item. An important design decision is whether to choose between different screw materials and head types. For the purpose of this furniture, it was decided to use stainless steel flathead socket screws.\n\nIt is worth spending some time thinking through and deciding where to locate the screws so that they are hidden or not visible when the product is in use (as much as possible). In this case, it was decided to divide the sides of the rocking chairs into two profiles so that the structural screws would be hidden by a second profile, which is intended to reinforce the mechanical stresses of the chairs and show a screwless finish from an exterior perspective.\n\nThis process can be done by a CNC. However, as we knew that the thickness varies on recycled plastic sheets, it was decided to do it by hand.\n\nA countersink bit was used to make room for the screw head to be flush (same level as the sheet).\n\nA [filtered] product deserves attractive photos so that the community and the people can appreciate the hard work behind it.\n\nLighting is by far the most important thing when taking photos, even above the camera's quality. \n\nIf you have a small product you want to photograph, get a colorful cardboard, look for an outdoor space with good lighting, and take as many photos from different angles as you can. It is better to have options.\n\nYou can see an instagram reel of a photo shoot we did for a screwless plant mould here: instagram.com: instagram.com/p/CbCgXJClI3f" } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/trash-printer-flake-extruding-3d-print-head/README.md b/howtos/trash-printer-flake-extruding-3d-print-head/README.md index 7d07f14e1..14c759433 100644 --- a/howtos/trash-printer-flake-extruding-3d-print-head/README.md +++ b/howtos/trash-printer-flake-extruding-3d-print-head/README.md @@ -1,31 +1,29 @@ --- title: Trash Printer Flake Extruding 3D Print Head slug: trash-printer-flake-extruding-3d-print-head -description: This is a modified extruder design, optimized for large-format 3D printing of Polypropylene, using shredded plastic flakes instead of filament. +description: This is a modified extruder design, optimized for large-format 3D printing of recycled Polypropylene, using shredded plastic flakes rather than filament. tags: ["PP","other machine","HDPE","extrusion"] category: Guides difficulty: Medium time: < 5 hours -keywords: 3D printing, large-format 3D printing, polypropylene printing, extruder design, CNC gantry, MPCNC LowRider2, NEMA23 stepper motor, recycled plastic extruder, open-source 3D printer, DIY 3D printer assembly +keywords: location: --- # Trash Printer Flake Extruding 3D Print Head ![Trash Printer Flake Extruding 3D Print Head](IMG_0872.JPG) -This is a modified extruder design, optimized for large-format 3D printing of Polypropylene, using shredded plastic flakes instead of filament. +This is a modified extruder design, optimized for large-format 3D printing of recycled Polypropylene, using shredded plastic flakes rather than filament. ## Steps ### Step 1: Watch the video! -First, watch the build video to understand the assembly process. The extruder head for the trash printer is a modified version of the filtered extruder, featuring a vertical axis and a NEMA23 stepper motor for easy integration with standard 3D printing software. +First, take a look at the build video to get a sense of how things go together! The trash printer extruder head is a modified version of the [filtered] extruder, that integrates a vertical axis and NEMA23 stepper motor, making it easy to control with existing 3D printing software. -This tutorial explains how to build the print head. To start printing, attach it to a CNC gantry capable of moving and running g-code. The example uses the MPCNC LowRider2 gantry by V1Engineering, which, while not technically open-source, is notable for its design utilizing 3D printable parts and readily available hardware. +This tutorial covers how build the print head. To get it printing, you'll need to mount it to a CNC gantry that can move it around and run gcode. Here, I'm using the MPCNC LowRider2 gantry designed by V1Engineering. While not technically open-source, the LowRider2 is neat because it is designed around 3D printable parts and commonly available hardware. ### Step 2: Acquire the parts! -Parts Required for Trash Printer Extruder Assembly: +These are the parts you'll need to assemble the Trash Printer extruder. Everything listed here should be readily available at local hardware stores, or on Amazon. The estimate cost is $150-$200, and most of that cost is just the motor. Everything else is quite cheap. -The components necessary for this project can be sourced from local hardware stores or online retailers like Amazon. The estimated total cost ranges from $150 to $200, largely due to the motor expense. Other components are relatively inexpensive. - -The design uses a 3-inch (7.62 cm) PVC plumbing wye fitting as a hopper. This fitting is commonly found in the United States; however, dimensions may vary internationally, necessitating modifications to custom parts. +The design is built around a 3" PVC plumbing wye fitting, that acts as a hopper. These are widely available in the United States, I'm not sure if the dimensions are different internationally. If so, the custom parts may need to be modified. ![custom – 6.jpg](./custom_6.jpg) @@ -38,9 +36,9 @@ The design uses a 3-inch (7.62 cm) PVC plumbing wye fitting as a hopper. This fi ### Step 3: You'll also need these tools -Essential tools include basic items and a laser cutter or CNC router for cutting wooden spacers to assemble the extruder. If unavailable, you can use the provided files as guides to cut and drill by hand. Various materials are suitable for spacers, though wood is preferred for its durability and resistance to heat-related softening. +The tools you need are all fairly basics, but you will need laser cutter or CNC CNC Router to cut the wooden spacers that hold the extruder together. If you don't have access to these tools, you can use the provided files as a reference, and cut/drill them by hand. Note that you can use a variety of materials for the spacers, but wood is ideal because it is cheap, sturdy, and doesn't get soft when it heats up. -The bottom flange won't heat enough to burn wood but can melt plastic; hence, wooden bottom spacers are advised. Top spacers and adapters can be 3D printed from plastic if desired. +The bottom flange should never get hot enough to burn the wood, but it can get hot enough to melt plastic, so using wood for the bottom spacers is highly recommended. The top spacers and adapters can be 3D printed out of plastic if you wish. ![custom – 5.jpg](./custom_5.jpg) @@ -50,32 +48,35 @@ The bottom flange won't heat enough to burn wood but can melt plastic; hence, wo ### Step 4: Cut or Acquire Spacers -In the attached zip folder, you will find a set of .svg files for cutting the necessary spacers. These can be cut using a laser cutter, CNC router, or manually drilled if necessary. My equipment used was a Glowforge Basic laser cutter. +In the attached zip folder, you'll find a set of .svgs for cutting the spacers you need. These can be cut using a laser cutter or CNC CNC Router, or drilled by hand if need be. + +I used a Glowforge Basic laser cutter. ![Screen Shot 2021-06-14 at 2.58.17 PM.png](./Screen_Shot_2021-06-14_at_2.58.17_PM.png) ### Step 5: Assemble to bottom spacers -Place all bottom spacers, beginning with B1, onto the two long threaded bolts. Arrange them in order from the smallest to largest hole; there should be seven. If your material is thinner than 0.25 inches (6.35 mm), additional spacers may be required. +Slide all of the bottom spacers starting with B1, onto the two long threaded bolts. These should go in sequential order from smallest hole to largest, and there should be 7 of them. If your material is thinner than .25", you may need more spacers. + ![custom – 7.jpg](./custom_7.jpg) ### Step 6: Mount Pipe Flange -Secure the nuts onto the spacers, then insert the smaller bolts from the opposite direction. Fit the pipe flange over the shorter bolts, covering the recessed heads of the longer bolts, and secure with nuts. +Tighten the nuts onto the spacers to hold them together, then install the smaller bolts from the opposite direction. Fit the pipe flange over the shorter bolts (covering the recessed heads of the longer bolts) and secure in place with nuts. -Place two top spacers (T2) behind the T1 motor bracket. Attach the NEMA 23 Stepper motor to the motor bracket spacer (T1) using M4 bolts. +Slide two top spacers (T2) behind the T1 motor bracket, then mount the NEMA 23 Stepper motor to the motor bracket spacer (T1) with M4 bolts. ![custom – 12.jpg](./custom_12.jpg) ### Step 7: Install Auger -Secure the shaft coupler onto the motor spindle using a hex wrench, then press-fit the shaft coupler adapter into the gear teeth. This accommodates a standard US hex shank for most 7/16" (11 mm) drill bits. The internal hex shape can be adjusted for different auger shanks. +Tighen the shaft coupler onto the motor spindle with a hex wrench, then press-fit the shaft coupler adapter into the teeth. This will fit a typical US hex shank for most 7/16" drill bits. The internal hex shape can be modified to fit other auger shanks. -Align and connect the two assemblies by sliding them so that the bolts from the bottom assembly align with the holes in the top assembly and push through. +Slide the two assemblies together so that bolts from the bottom assembly line up with and push through the two holes in the top assembly. ![custom – 23.jpg](./custom_23.jpg) @@ -88,33 +89,37 @@ Align and connect the two assemblies by sliding them so that the bolts from the ### Step 8: Tighten it all together -Tighten the 1/4"-20 coupler nuts onto the ends of the threaded bolts. If the fit is tight, use a ratchet tool. Additional spacers (B7 or T2) may be added to adjust the auger's extension into the extrusion tube; generally, 1-2 inches (2.5-5 cm) is sufficient. Ensure the auger does not extend too far into the melt zone to avoid locking when the material cools. +Tighten the 1/4"-20 coupler nuts onto the ends of the protruding threaded bolts. It can be a tight fit, so using a ratcheting tool can be handy. Additional spacers (B7 or T2) can be added if needed. Adding additional spacers can help you set how far the auger extends into the extrusion tube. In general, I've found about 1-2" is sufficient. -Proceed to assemble the extrusion barrel and slide the heater band onto the brass adapter. +If the auger extends to far into the tube and into the melt zone, it becomes much harder to turn, and can become locked in place when the plastic cools. So keep it just far enough in that it can put pressure on the unmelted flakes. + +Next assemble the extrusion barrel, and slide the heater band over the barrel onto the brass adapter. ![custom – 24.jpg](./custom_24.jpg) ### Step 9: Assemble the Extrusion Tube -Attach the pipe to the pipe flange, ensuring it is hand-tightened without thread tape until it no longer turns. +Screw the pipe onto the pipe flange. This must only be secure enough to not come loose, hand tightening is fine, and no thread tape is required. Just screw it on until you can't anymore. + +Secure the heater band in place. I like to also see if I can slip the thermistor probe between the band and the pipe, and secure it so that it holds the temp probe in place. + -Position the heater band securely. Insert the thermistor probe between the band and the pipe, ensuring it remains firmly in place. ![custom – 25.jpg](./custom_25.jpg) ### Step 10: Modify Hot End -### Instructions for Modifying the Hot End +Use a drill to widen the hole in the aluminum hot end block, so that it fits snugly but easily around the barbed nozzle. -1. **Drill the Aluminum Block:** Enlarge the hole in the aluminum hot end block with a drill. Ensure it fits snugly around the barbed nozzle. +Next, turn the hot end on it's side, and drill and then tap a small hole for an set screw to hold the hot end in place against the nozzle. -2. **Secure the Hot End:** Position the hot end on its side. Drill and tap a hole for a set screw to secure the hot end against the nozzle. +Install the heater cartridge and screw-in thermistor into the hot end. They should just fit. -3. **Install Components:** Insert the heater cartridge and screw-in thermistor into the hot end, ensuring a proper fit. +Slide the modified hot end assembly over the nozzle barb, and tighten it in place, about 1/2" (4-5mm) above the end of the nozzle. -4. **Assemble and Adjust:** Slide the modified hot end assembly over the nozzle barb and tighten it in place, approximately 1/2 inch (12-13 mm) above the nozzle's end. Ensure the block is close to the nozzle tip, but not so close as to be covered in plastic during use, which could produce unwanted fumes. +You want this block to be as close to the tip as possible, but not so close that it gets covered in plastic during printing, which will increase fumes and is generally not ideal. ![custom – 28.jpg](./custom_28.jpg) @@ -124,9 +129,9 @@ Position the heater band securely. Insert the thermistor probe between the band ### Step 11: Now Strap it to a Robot! -Mount the extruder onto a suitable CNC gantry. This is a technical task; I use an MPCNC Low-Rider2 with a RAMBOv1.4 board running Marlin firmware and Repetier-Host control software. +Now you'll need to mount the extruder onto an appropriate CNC gantry. That's a whole other project, and it's fairly technical, but I use an MPCNC Low-Rider2, with a RAMBOv1.4 board running Marlin firmware, and Repetier-Host as the control software. -The NEMA23 operates optimally at 24V. I power the system with 24VDC using a Solid State Relay (SSR) module to control AC mains power for the band heater. The SSR is managed by the heater relay on the control board. When activated at 24V, it powers the SSR, turning on the mains switch to deliver increased power to the extruder. +The NEMA23 works best at 24V, so I run the whole system at 24VDC. I used an SSR (Solid State Relay) module, like the ones used in the other PP machines, to switch AC mains power on and off, which powers the band heater. The SSR is controlled by the heater relay on the control board. When it turns on 24V, it activates the SSR, and turns on the Mains switch, allowing the system to deliver a lot more power to the extruder than it otherwise could. ![IMG_0255.JPG](./IMG_0255.JPG) @@ -139,9 +144,9 @@ The NEMA23 operates optimally at 24V. I power the system with 24VDC using a Soli ### Step 12: Start Trash Printing! -This design was inspired by [filtered] and is entirely open source. You may use, share, and modify it freely. If you choose to replicate or improve the design, feedback and contributions are appreciated. +This design was inspired by [filtered] and is 100% open source. Feel free to use, share, modify it with or without credit or permission. But if you do replicate it, please let me know and show me your build, and if you make improvements, please share them with the world! Replication is the highest form of flattery. -For further information on my open-source infrastructure designs and updates on my projects, visit Patreon.com/DisruptivelyUseful. +If you want to learn more about my open-source infrastructure designs, and/or help support this work, you can follow my monthly project updates at Patreon.com/DisruptivelyUseful ![IMG_0471.JPG](./IMG_0471.JPG) @@ -153,60 +158,4 @@ For further information on my open-source infrastructure designs and updates on ![IMG_0726.JPG](./IMG_0726.JPG) ## Resources -### Tools & Equipment - -- Laser cutter/CNC CNC Router (e.g., [Glowforge Basic](https://glowforge.com)) -- Basic hand tools (drill, wrenches) -- Hex wrench (for shaft coupler) -- Ratchet tool (for tightening coupler nuts) -- Drill (for modifying hot end aluminum block) - -### Hardware Components - -- NEMA23 stepper motor (24V) -- 3-inch PVC plumbing wye fitting (7.62 cm) -- Heater band (for extrusion barrel) -- Solid State Relay (SSR) module (24VDC) -- MPCNC LowRider2 gantry ([V1Engineering](https://v1engineering.com)) - -### Software & Control - -- Marlin firmware (on RAMBOv1.4 board) -- Repetier-Host control software ([Repetier](https://repetier.com)) -- Laser cutter/CNC software (e.g., Glowforge interface) -- G-code compatible motion control system -- SVG spacer design files (provided in tutorial) - -### Consumables & Materials - -- 3/4" threaded bolts (1/4"-20) -- Wooden spacers (laser-cut or hand-drilled) -- M4 bolts (for motor bracket) -- 7/16" drill bit (11 mm hex shank) -- Thermistor probe (for temperature monitoring) -## References -## Articles - -- [Polypropylene (PP) Extrusion](https://plasticextrusiontech.net/capabilities/polypropylene-extrusion/) -- [Polypropylene Sheet Extrusion Guide](https://kochind.scene7.com/is/content/kochind/PP_SHEET_EXTRUSION_GUIDE) -- [Trash printer - Michelle Vossen](https://michellevossen.com/blog/fablab/misc/2022/02/09/trash-printer.html) -- [The Trash Printer - Version 3](https://jpralves.net/post/2022/11/03/the-trash-printer-version-3.html) - -## Papers - -- [AI in the Electronics Lab - SPS](https://sps.mesago.com/content/dam/messefrankfurt-mesago/sps/2023/documents/pdf/en/EN2023011_compressed.pdf) - -## YouTube - -- [MPCNC Lowrider part 2 - belts, wiring, firmware](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vljd9lJXu0E) -- [This 3D Printer Eats Trash (ft. Disruptively Useful)](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ibXZOPIuT34) -- [How to 3D Print with Recycled Trash! | Maddie Moate](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4mtf1cx0PLc) - -## Open-source Designs - -- Trash Printer Flake Extruding 3D Print Head -- [DIY Filament Extruder and Open Source - Felfil Project](https://felfil.com/diy-filament-extruder/) -- [MPCNC Build Kit - Primo Version](https://www.v1e.com/products/mostly-printed-cnc-parts-bundle-primo-version) -- [Trash Eating Robots | Some assembly required](https://www.trashprinter.org) -- [CollettivoCocomeri/Felfil-Evo](https://github.com/CollettivoCocomeri/Felfil-Evo) -- [Felfil Evo | Filament Extruder Kit or Assembled for 3D printers](https://felfil.com/felfilevo-filament-extruder/) \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/trash-printer-flake-extruding-3d-print-head/config.json b/howtos/trash-printer-flake-extruding-3d-print-head/config.json index 330de80ad..83739cd46 100644 --- a/howtos/trash-printer-flake-extruding-3d-print-head/config.json +++ b/howtos/trash-printer-flake-extruding-3d-print-head/config.json @@ -1,5 +1,5 @@ { - "description": "This is a modified extruder design, optimized for large-format 3D printing of Polypropylene, using shredded plastic flakes instead of filament.", + "description": "This is a modified extruder design, optimized for large-format 3D printing of recycled Polypropylene, using shredded plastic flakes rather than filament.", "moderation": "accepted", "difficulty_level": "Medium", "time": "< 5 hours", @@ -69,12 +69,12 @@ "_animationKey": "unique1", "title": "Watch the video!", "videoUrl": "https://youtu.be/laeUrGnh_8c", - "text": "First, watch the build video to understand the assembly process. The extruder head for the trash printer is a modified version of the filtered extruder, featuring a vertical axis and a NEMA23 stepper motor for easy integration with standard 3D printing software.\n\nThis tutorial explains how to build the print head. To start printing, attach it to a CNC gantry capable of moving and running g-code. The example uses the MPCNC LowRider2 gantry by V1Engineering, which, while not technically open-source, is notable for its design utilizing 3D printable parts and readily available hardware." + "text": "First, take a look at the build video to get a sense of how things go together! The trash printer extruder head is a modified version of the [filtered] extruder, that integrates a vertical axis and NEMA23 stepper motor, making it easy to control with existing 3D printing software.\n\nThis tutorial covers how build the print head. To get it printing, you'll need to mount it to a CNC gantry that can move it around and run gcode. Here, I'm using the MPCNC LowRider2 gantry designed by V1Engineering. While not technically open-source, the LowRider2 is neat because it is designed around 3D printable parts and commonly available hardware." }, { "_animationKey": "unique2", "title": "Acquire the parts!", - "text": "Parts Required for Trash Printer Extruder Assembly:\n\nThe components necessary for this project can be sourced from local hardware stores or online retailers like Amazon. The estimated total cost ranges from $150 to $200, largely due to the motor expense. Other components are relatively inexpensive.\n\nThe design uses a 3-inch (7.62 cm) PVC plumbing wye fitting as a hopper. This fitting is commonly found in the United States; however, dimensions may vary internationally, necessitating modifications to custom parts.", + "text": "These are the parts you'll need to assemble the Trash Printer extruder. Everything listed here should be readily available at local hardware stores, or on Amazon. The estimate cost is $150-$200, and most of that cost is just the motor. Everything else is quite cheap.\n\nThe design is built around a 3\" PVC plumbing wye fitting, that acts as a hopper. These are widely available in the United States, I'm not sure if the dimensions are different internationally. If so, the custom parts may need to be modified.", "images": [ { "contentType": "image/jpeg", @@ -115,7 +115,7 @@ ] }, { - "text": "Essential tools include basic items and a laser cutter or CNC router for cutting wooden spacers to assemble the extruder. If unavailable, you can use the provided files as guides to cut and drill by hand. Various materials are suitable for spacers, though wood is preferred for its durability and resistance to heat-related softening.\n\nThe bottom flange won't heat enough to burn wood but can melt plastic; hence, wooden bottom spacers are advised. Top spacers and adapters can be 3D printed from plastic if desired.", + "text": "The tools you need are all fairly basics, but you will need laser cutter or CNC CNC Router to cut the wooden spacers that hold the extruder together. If you don't have access to these tools, you can use the provided files as a reference, and cut/drill them by hand. Note that you can use a variety of materials for the spacers, but wood is ideal because it is cheap, sturdy, and doesn't get soft when it heats up.\n\nThe bottom flange should never get hot enough to burn the wood, but it can get hot enough to melt plastic, so using wood for the bottom spacers is highly recommended. The top spacers and adapters can be 3D printed out of plastic if you wish.", "images": [ { "name": "custom – 5.jpg", @@ -160,12 +160,12 @@ "alt": "Screen Shot 2021-06-14 at 2.58.17 PM.png" } ], - "text": "In the attached zip folder, you will find a set of .svg files for cutting the necessary spacers. These can be cut using a laser cutter, CNC router, or manually drilled if necessary. My equipment used was a Glowforge Basic laser cutter.", + "text": "In the attached zip folder, you'll find a set of .svgs for cutting the spacers you need. These can be cut using a laser cutter or CNC CNC Router, or drilled by hand if need be. \n\nI used a Glowforge Basic laser cutter.", "title": "Cut or Acquire Spacers", "_animationKey": "uniquee4zqmb" }, { - "text": "Place all bottom spacers, beginning with B1, onto the two long threaded bolts. Arrange them in order from the smallest to largest hole; there should be seven. If your material is thinner than 0.25 inches (6.35 mm), additional spacers may be required.", + "text": "Slide all of the bottom spacers starting with B1, onto the two long threaded bolts. These should go in sequential order from smallest hole to largest, and there should be 7 of them. If your material is thinner than .25\", you may need more spacers.\n", "title": "Assemble to bottom spacers", "images": [ { @@ -199,11 +199,11 @@ } ], "_animationKey": "uniquetvvs1k", - "text": "Secure the nuts onto the spacers, then insert the smaller bolts from the opposite direction. Fit the pipe flange over the shorter bolts, covering the recessed heads of the longer bolts, and secure with nuts.\n\nPlace two top spacers (T2) behind the T1 motor bracket. Attach the NEMA 23 Stepper motor to the motor bracket spacer (T1) using M4 bolts.", + "text": "Tighten the nuts onto the spacers to hold them together, then install the smaller bolts from the opposite direction. Fit the pipe flange over the shorter bolts (covering the recessed heads of the longer bolts) and secure in place with nuts.\n\nSlide two top spacers (T2) behind the T1 motor bracket, then mount the NEMA 23 Stepper motor to the motor bracket spacer (T1) with M4 bolts. ", "title": "Mount Pipe Flange" }, { - "text": "Secure the shaft coupler onto the motor spindle using a hex wrench, then press-fit the shaft coupler adapter into the gear teeth. This accommodates a standard US hex shank for most 7/16\" (11 mm) drill bits. The internal hex shape can be adjusted for different auger shanks.\n\nAlign and connect the two assemblies by sliding them so that the bolts from the bottom assembly align with the holes in the top assembly and push through.", + "text": "Tighen the shaft coupler onto the motor spindle with a hex wrench, then press-fit the shaft coupler adapter into the teeth. This will fit a typical US hex shank for most 7/16\" drill bits. The internal hex shape can be modified to fit other auger shanks.\n\nSlide the two assemblies together so that bolts from the bottom assembly line up with and push through the two holes in the top assembly.", "title": "Install Auger", "images": [ { @@ -261,7 +261,7 @@ } ], "_animationKey": "uniqueoll2i9", - "text": "Tighten the 1/4\"-20 coupler nuts onto the ends of the threaded bolts. If the fit is tight, use a ratchet tool. Additional spacers (B7 or T2) may be added to adjust the auger's extension into the extrusion tube; generally, 1-2 inches (2.5-5 cm) is sufficient. Ensure the auger does not extend too far into the melt zone to avoid locking when the material cools. \n\nProceed to assemble the extrusion barrel and slide the heater band onto the brass adapter.", + "text": "Tighten the 1/4\"-20 coupler nuts onto the ends of the protruding threaded bolts. It can be a tight fit, so using a ratcheting tool can be handy. Additional spacers (B7 or T2) can be added if needed. Adding additional spacers can help you set how far the auger extends into the extrusion tube. In general, I've found about 1-2\" is sufficient. \n\nIf the auger extends to far into the tube and into the melt zone, it becomes much harder to turn, and can become locked in place when the plastic cools. So keep it just far enough in that it can put pressure on the unmelted flakes.\n\nNext assemble the extrusion barrel, and slide the heater band over the barrel onto the brass adapter.", "title": "Tighten it all together" }, { @@ -281,7 +281,7 @@ ], "_animationKey": "uniqueihggdk", "title": "Assemble the Extrusion Tube", - "text": "Attach the pipe to the pipe flange, ensuring it is hand-tightened without thread tape until it no longer turns.\n\nPosition the heater band securely. Insert the thermistor probe between the band and the pipe, ensuring it remains firmly in place." + "text": "Screw the pipe onto the pipe flange. This must only be secure enough to not come loose, hand tightening is fine, and no thread tape is required. Just screw it on until you can't anymore.\n\nSecure the heater band in place. I like to also see if I can slip the thermistor probe between the band and the pipe, and secure it so that it holds the temp probe in place.\n\n" }, { "images": [ @@ -312,11 +312,11 @@ ], "_animationKey": "unique853af", "title": "Modify Hot End", - "text": "### Instructions for Modifying the Hot End\n\n1. **Drill the Aluminum Block:** Enlarge the hole in the aluminum hot end block with a drill. Ensure it fits snugly around the barbed nozzle.\n\n2. **Secure the Hot End:** Position the hot end on its side. Drill and tap a hole for a set screw to secure the hot end against the nozzle.\n\n3. **Install Components:** Insert the heater cartridge and screw-in thermistor into the hot end, ensuring a proper fit.\n\n4. **Assemble and Adjust:** Slide the modified hot end assembly over the nozzle barb and tighten it in place, approximately 1/2 inch (12-13 mm) above the nozzle's end. Ensure the block is close to the nozzle tip, but not so close as to be covered in plastic during use, which could produce unwanted fumes." + "text": "Use a drill to widen the hole in the aluminum hot end block, so that it fits snugly but easily around the barbed nozzle.\n\nNext, turn the hot end on it's side, and drill and then tap a small hole for an set screw to hold the hot end in place against the nozzle.\n\nInstall the heater cartridge and screw-in thermistor into the hot end. They should just fit.\n\nSlide the modified hot end assembly over the nozzle barb, and tighten it in place, about 1/2\" (4-5mm) above the end of the nozzle. \n\nYou want this block to be as close to the tip as possible, but not so close that it gets covered in plastic during printing, which will increase fumes and is generally not ideal." }, { "_animationKey": "uniquesskhbi", - "text": "Mount the extruder onto a suitable CNC gantry. This is a technical task; I use an MPCNC Low-Rider2 with a RAMBOv1.4 board running Marlin firmware and Repetier-Host control software.\n\nThe NEMA23 operates optimally at 24V. I power the system with 24VDC using a Solid State Relay (SSR) module to control AC mains power for the band heater. The SSR is managed by the heater relay on the control board. When activated at 24V, it powers the SSR, turning on the mains switch to deliver increased power to the extruder.", + "text": "Now you'll need to mount the extruder onto an appropriate CNC gantry. That's a whole other project, and it's fairly technical, but I use an MPCNC Low-Rider2, with a RAMBOv1.4 board running Marlin firmware, and Repetier-Host as the control software.\n\nThe NEMA23 works best at 24V, so I run the whole system at 24VDC. I used an SSR (Solid State Relay) module, like the ones used in the other PP machines, to switch AC mains power on and off, which powers the band heater. The SSR is controlled by the heater relay on the control board. When it turns on 24V, it activates the SSR, and turns on the Mains switch, allowing the system to deliver a lot more power to the extruder than it otherwise could.", "title": "Now Strap it to a Robot!", "images": [ { @@ -358,7 +358,7 @@ ] }, { - "text": "This design was inspired by [filtered] and is entirely open source. You may use, share, and modify it freely. If you choose to replicate or improve the design, feedback and contributions are appreciated. \n\nFor further information on my open-source infrastructure designs and updates on my projects, visit Patreon.com/DisruptivelyUseful.", + "text": "This design was inspired by [filtered] and is 100% open source. Feel free to use, share, modify it with or without credit or permission. But if you do replicate it, please let me know and show me your build, and if you make improvements, please share them with the world! Replication is the highest form of flattery.\n\nIf you want to learn more about my open-source infrastructure designs, and/or help support this work, you can follow my monthly project updates at Patreon.com/DisruptivelyUseful", "images": [ { "size": 110055, @@ -406,9 +406,5 @@ "_contentModifiedTimestamp": "2023-06-14T11:02:19.285Z", "total_views": 348, "fileLink": "", - "content": "This is a modified extruder design, optimized for large-format 3D printing of Polypropylene, using shredded plastic flakes instead of filament.\n\nFirst, watch the build video to understand the assembly process. The extruder head for the trash printer is a modified version of the filtered extruder, featuring a vertical axis and a NEMA23 stepper motor for easy integration with standard 3D printing software.\n\nThis tutorial explains how to build the print head. To start printing, attach it to a CNC gantry capable of moving and running g-code. The example uses the MPCNC LowRider2 gantry by V1Engineering, which, while not technically open-source, is notable for its design utilizing 3D printable parts and readily available hardware.\n\nParts Required for Trash Printer Extruder Assembly:\n\nThe components necessary for this project can be sourced from local hardware stores or online retailers like Amazon. The estimated total cost ranges from $150 to $200, largely due to the motor expense. Other components are relatively inexpensive.\n\nThe design uses a 3-inch (7.62 cm) PVC plumbing wye fitting as a hopper. This fitting is commonly found in the United States; however, dimensions may vary internationally, necessitating modifications to custom parts.\n\nEssential tools include basic items and a laser cutter or CNC router for cutting wooden spacers to assemble the extruder. If unavailable, you can use the provided files as guides to cut and drill by hand. Various materials are suitable for spacers, though wood is preferred for its durability and resistance to heat-related softening.\n\nThe bottom flange won't heat enough to burn wood but can melt plastic; hence, wooden bottom spacers are advised. Top spacers and adapters can be 3D printed from plastic if desired.\n\nIn the attached zip folder, you will find a set of .svg files for cutting the necessary spacers. These can be cut using a laser cutter, CNC router, or manually drilled if necessary. My equipment used was a Glowforge Basic laser cutter.\n\nPlace all bottom spacers, beginning with B1, onto the two long threaded bolts. Arrange them in order from the smallest to largest hole; there should be seven. If your material is thinner than 0.25 inches (6.35 mm), additional spacers may be required.\n\nSecure the nuts onto the spacers, then insert the smaller bolts from the opposite direction. Fit the pipe flange over the shorter bolts, covering the recessed heads of the longer bolts, and secure with nuts.\n\nPlace two top spacers (T2) behind the T1 motor bracket. Attach the NEMA 23 Stepper motor to the motor bracket spacer (T1) using M4 bolts.\n\nSecure the shaft coupler onto the motor spindle using a hex wrench, then press-fit the shaft coupler adapter into the gear teeth. This accommodates a standard US hex shank for most 7/16\" (11 mm) drill bits. The internal hex shape can be adjusted for different auger shanks.\n\nAlign and connect the two assemblies by sliding them so that the bolts from the bottom assembly align with the holes in the top assembly and push through.\n\nTighten the 1/4\"-20 coupler nuts onto the ends of the threaded bolts. If the fit is tight, use a ratchet tool. Additional spacers (B7 or T2) may be added to adjust the auger's extension into the extrusion tube; generally, 1-2 inches (2.5-5 cm) is sufficient. Ensure the auger does not extend too far into the melt zone to avoid locking when the material cools. \n\nProceed to assemble the extrusion barrel and slide the heater band onto the brass adapter.\n\nAttach the pipe to the pipe flange, ensuring it is hand-tightened without thread tape until it no longer turns.\n\nPosition the heater band securely. Insert the thermistor probe between the band and the pipe, ensuring it remains firmly in place.\n\n### Instructions for Modifying the Hot End\n\n1. **Drill the Aluminum Block:** Enlarge the hole in the aluminum hot end block with a drill. Ensure it fits snugly around the barbed nozzle.\n\n2. **Secure the Hot End:** Position the hot end on its side. Drill and tap a hole for a set screw to secure the hot end against the nozzle.\n\n3. **Install Components:** Insert the heater cartridge and screw-in thermistor into the hot end, ensuring a proper fit.\n\n4. **Assemble and Adjust:** Slide the modified hot end assembly over the nozzle barb and tighten it in place, approximately 1/2 inch (12-13 mm) above the nozzle's end. Ensure the block is close to the nozzle tip, but not so close as to be covered in plastic during use, which could produce unwanted fumes.\n\nMount the extruder onto a suitable CNC gantry. This is a technical task; I use an MPCNC Low-Rider2 with a RAMBOv1.4 board running Marlin firmware and Repetier-Host control software.\n\nThe NEMA23 operates optimally at 24V. I power the system with 24VDC using a Solid State Relay (SSR) module to control AC mains power for the band heater. The SSR is managed by the heater relay on the control board. When activated at 24V, it powers the SSR, turning on the mains switch to deliver increased power to the extruder.\n\nThis design was inspired by [filtered] and is entirely open source. You may use, share, and modify it freely. If you choose to replicate or improve the design, feedback and contributions are appreciated. \n\nFor further information on my open-source infrastructure designs and updates on my projects, visit Patreon.com/DisruptivelyUseful.", - "keywords": "3D printing, large-format 3D printing, polypropylene printing, extruder design, CNC gantry, MPCNC LowRider2, NEMA23 stepper motor, recycled plastic extruder, open-source 3D printer, DIY 3D printer assembly", - "resources": "### Tools & Equipment\n\n- Laser cutter/CNC CNC Router (e.g., [Glowforge Basic](https://glowforge.com))\n- Basic hand tools (drill, wrenches)\n- Hex wrench (for shaft coupler)\n- Ratchet tool (for tightening coupler nuts)\n- Drill (for modifying hot end aluminum block)\n\n### Hardware Components\n\n- NEMA23 stepper motor (24V)\n- 3-inch PVC plumbing wye fitting (7.62 cm)\n- Heater band (for extrusion barrel)\n- Solid State Relay (SSR) module (24VDC)\n- MPCNC LowRider2 gantry ([V1Engineering](https://v1engineering.com))\n\n### Software & Control\n\n- Marlin firmware (on RAMBOv1.4 board)\n- Repetier-Host control software ([Repetier](https://repetier.com))\n- Laser cutter/CNC software (e.g., Glowforge interface)\n- G-code compatible motion control system\n- SVG spacer design files (provided in tutorial)\n\n### Consumables & Materials\n\n- 3/4\" threaded bolts (1/4\"-20)\n- Wooden spacers (laser-cut or hand-drilled)\n- M4 bolts (for motor bracket)\n- 7/16\" drill bit (11 mm hex shank)\n- Thermistor probe (for temperature monitoring)", - "references": "## Articles\n\n- [Polypropylene (PP) Extrusion](https://plasticextrusiontech.net/capabilities/polypropylene-extrusion/)\n- [Polypropylene Sheet Extrusion Guide](https://kochind.scene7.com/is/content/kochind/PP_SHEET_EXTRUSION_GUIDE)\n- [Trash printer - Michelle Vossen](https://michellevossen.com/blog/fablab/misc/2022/02/09/trash-printer.html)\n- [The Trash Printer - Version 3](https://jpralves.net/post/2022/11/03/the-trash-printer-version-3.html)\n\n## Papers\n\n- [AI in the Electronics Lab - SPS](https://sps.mesago.com/content/dam/messefrankfurt-mesago/sps/2023/documents/pdf/en/EN2023011_compressed.pdf)\n\n## YouTube\n\n- [MPCNC Lowrider part 2 - belts, wiring, firmware](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vljd9lJXu0E)\n- [This 3D Printer Eats Trash (ft. Disruptively Useful)](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ibXZOPIuT34)\n- [How to 3D Print with Recycled Trash! | Maddie Moate](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4mtf1cx0PLc)\n\n## Open-source Designs\n\n- Trash Printer Flake Extruding 3D Print Head\n- [DIY Filament Extruder and Open Source - Felfil Project](https://felfil.com/diy-filament-extruder/)\n- [MPCNC Build Kit - Primo Version](https://www.v1e.com/products/mostly-printed-cnc-parts-bundle-primo-version)\n- [Trash Eating Robots | Some assembly required](https://www.trashprinter.org)\n- [CollettivoCocomeri/Felfil-Evo](https://github.com/CollettivoCocomeri/Felfil-Evo)\n- [Felfil Evo | Filament Extruder Kit or Assembled for 3D printers](https://felfil.com/felfilevo-filament-extruder/)", - "brief": "Optimized large-format 3D printing with a modified extruder for Polypropylene, using shredded plastic flakes. Learn assembly and integration techniques for efficient printing." + "content": "This is a modified extruder design, optimized for large-format 3D printing of recycled Polypropylene, using shredded plastic flakes rather than filament.\n\nFirst, take a look at the build video to get a sense of how things go together! The trash printer extruder head is a modified version of the [filtered] extruder, that integrates a vertical axis and NEMA23 stepper motor, making it easy to control with existing 3D printing software.\n\nThis tutorial covers how build the print head. To get it printing, you'll need to mount it to a CNC gantry that can move it around and run gcode. Here, I'm using the MPCNC LowRider2 gantry designed by V1Engineering. While not technically open-source, the LowRider2 is neat because it is designed around 3D printable parts and commonly available hardware.\n\nThese are the parts you'll need to assemble the Trash Printer extruder. Everything listed here should be readily available at local hardware stores, or on Amazon. The estimate cost is $150-$200, and most of that cost is just the motor. Everything else is quite cheap.\n\nThe design is built around a 3\" PVC plumbing wye fitting, that acts as a hopper. These are widely available in the United States, I'm not sure if the dimensions are different internationally. If so, the custom parts may need to be modified.\n\nThe tools you need are all fairly basics, but you will need laser cutter or CNC CNC Router to cut the wooden spacers that hold the extruder together. If you don't have access to these tools, you can use the provided files as a reference, and cut/drill them by hand. Note that you can use a variety of materials for the spacers, but wood is ideal because it is cheap, sturdy, and doesn't get soft when it heats up.\n\nThe bottom flange should never get hot enough to burn the wood, but it can get hot enough to melt plastic, so using wood for the bottom spacers is highly recommended. The top spacers and adapters can be 3D printed out of plastic if you wish.\n\nIn the attached zip folder, you'll find a set of .svgs for cutting the spacers you need. These can be cut using a laser cutter or CNC CNC Router, or drilled by hand if need be. \n\nI used a Glowforge Basic laser cutter.\n\nSlide all of the bottom spacers starting with B1, onto the two long threaded bolts. These should go in sequential order from smallest hole to largest, and there should be 7 of them. If your material is thinner than .25\", you may need more spacers.\n\n\nTighten the nuts onto the spacers to hold them together, then install the smaller bolts from the opposite direction. Fit the pipe flange over the shorter bolts (covering the recessed heads of the longer bolts) and secure in place with nuts.\n\nSlide two top spacers (T2) behind the T1 motor bracket, then mount the NEMA 23 Stepper motor to the motor bracket spacer (T1) with M4 bolts. \n\nTighen the shaft coupler onto the motor spindle with a hex wrench, then press-fit the shaft coupler adapter into the teeth. This will fit a typical US hex shank for most 7/16\" drill bits. The internal hex shape can be modified to fit other auger shanks.\n\nSlide the two assemblies together so that bolts from the bottom assembly line up with and push through the two holes in the top assembly.\n\nTighten the 1/4\"-20 coupler nuts onto the ends of the protruding threaded bolts. It can be a tight fit, so using a ratcheting tool can be handy. Additional spacers (B7 or T2) can be added if needed. Adding additional spacers can help you set how far the auger extends into the extrusion tube. In general, I've found about 1-2\" is sufficient. \n\nIf the auger extends to far into the tube and into the melt zone, it becomes much harder to turn, and can become locked in place when the plastic cools. So keep it just far enough in that it can put pressure on the unmelted flakes.\n\nNext assemble the extrusion barrel, and slide the heater band over the barrel onto the brass adapter.\n\nScrew the pipe onto the pipe flange. This must only be secure enough to not come loose, hand tightening is fine, and no thread tape is required. Just screw it on until you can't anymore.\n\nSecure the heater band in place. I like to also see if I can slip the thermistor probe between the band and the pipe, and secure it so that it holds the temp probe in place.\n\n\n\nUse a drill to widen the hole in the aluminum hot end block, so that it fits snugly but easily around the barbed nozzle.\n\nNext, turn the hot end on it's side, and drill and then tap a small hole for an set screw to hold the hot end in place against the nozzle.\n\nInstall the heater cartridge and screw-in thermistor into the hot end. They should just fit.\n\nSlide the modified hot end assembly over the nozzle barb, and tighten it in place, about 1/2\" (4-5mm) above the end of the nozzle. \n\nYou want this block to be as close to the tip as possible, but not so close that it gets covered in plastic during printing, which will increase fumes and is generally not ideal.\n\nNow you'll need to mount the extruder onto an appropriate CNC gantry. That's a whole other project, and it's fairly technical, but I use an MPCNC Low-Rider2, with a RAMBOv1.4 board running Marlin firmware, and Repetier-Host as the control software.\n\nThe NEMA23 works best at 24V, so I run the whole system at 24VDC. I used an SSR (Solid State Relay) module, like the ones used in the other PP machines, to switch AC mains power on and off, which powers the band heater. The SSR is controlled by the heater relay on the control board. When it turns on 24V, it activates the SSR, and turns on the Mains switch, allowing the system to deliver a lot more power to the extruder than it otherwise could.\n\nThis design was inspired by [filtered] and is 100% open source. Feel free to use, share, modify it with or without credit or permission. But if you do replicate it, please let me know and show me your build, and if you make improvements, please share them with the world! Replication is the highest form of flattery.\n\nIf you want to learn more about my open-source infrastructure designs, and/or help support this work, you can follow my monthly project updates at Patreon.com/DisruptivelyUseful" } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/turn-a-pizza-oven-into-a-sheet-oven-/README.md b/howtos/turn-a-pizza-oven-into-a-sheet-oven-/README.md index ea9ae6ccb..638e1249e 100644 --- a/howtos/turn-a-pizza-oven-into-a-sheet-oven-/README.md +++ b/howtos/turn-a-pizza-oven-into-a-sheet-oven-/README.md @@ -1,27 +1,24 @@ --- title: Turn a pizza oven into a Sheet oven slug: turn-a-pizza-oven-into-a-sheet-oven- -description: # How to Create Plastic Sheets Using a Pizza Oven and Cardboard/PET Press - -This guide will demonstrate the process of making plastic sheets with the aid of a pizza oven and a press designed for cardboard/PET materials. +description: On this tutorial I will show you how we do plastic sheets with a pizza oven and a Cardboard/PET press. tags: ["HDPE"] category: Guides difficulty: Medium time: < 1 week -keywords: Plastic sheets, pizza oven, PET press, recycled plastic, DIY plastic sheets, HDPE molds, homemade plastic sheets, CNC milling plastic, plastic sheet press, Mexico City recycling +keywords: location: Mexico City, Mexico --- # Turn a pizza oven into a Sheet oven ![Turn a pizza oven into a Sheet oven ](IMG_20200609_180033.jpg) -# How to Create Plastic Sheets Using a Pizza Oven and Cardboard/PET Press - -This guide will demonstrate the process of making plastic sheets with the aid of a pizza oven and a press designed for cardboard/PET materials. +On this tutorial I will show you how we do plastic sheets with a pizza oven and a Cardboard/PET press. User Location: Mexico City, Mexico ## Steps ### Step 1: Refurbishing the oven and PID -We obtained a used pizza oven from a local restaurant at no cost. We sanded, cleaned, and equipped it with a PID controller. The thermometer is centrally located in the oven. +We got an old pizza oven for free from a local restaurant. Then we sand it down, cleaned it and added a PID controller. The thermometer is in the middle of the oven. + ![IMG_20200603_155219.jpg](./IMG_20200603_155219.jpg) @@ -34,20 +31,21 @@ We obtained a used pizza oven from a local restaurant at no cost. We sanded, cle ### Step 2: Making the mold -We constructed a mold using square steel tubes, sized to fit the oven. Alternatively, bread trays can be used. +We created a mold out of square steel tubes. Here is important to do a mold the size of the oven, but you can also use simple bread trays. -The key to producing quality sheets lies in this step. We are continually improving our molds; this instance employs available steel. +I think the magic and complexity of good sheets lays here in this step. We keep making new molds that are far better. but in this case we use steel that was laying around. -For future molds: -- Aluminum sheets will be utilized -- A frame will be added to restrain compression width +For next molds: +- We will use aluminum sheets +- We will add a frame to "limit" the compression width ![IMG_20200604_122420.jpg](./IMG_20200604_122420.jpg) ### Step 3: The process I -Apply a thin layer of petroleum jelly to the mold. Then, add approximately 6.6 pounds (3 kg) of shredded HDPE and secure the mold lid. +Now, we add vaseline to the mold and afterwards we add around 3 kg of shredded HDPE and put the mold lid. + ![IMG_20200604_122419.jpg](./IMG_20200604_122419.jpg) @@ -60,11 +58,7 @@ Apply a thin layer of petroleum jelly to the mold. Then, add approximately 6.6 p ### Step 4: The process II -Certainly! Here's the revised text: - ---- - -Turn on the oven and set the temperature according to the plastic type. We found 160°C (320°F) effective when measured at the oven's center. +Now we turn on the oven and regulate the temperature depending on the plastic. We got good results with 160°C, but remember, this was measurred in the middle of the oven. ![IMG_20200603_163541.jpg](./IMG_20200603_163541.jpg) @@ -74,7 +68,7 @@ Turn on the oven and set the temperature according to the plastic type. We found ### Step 5: The process III -Heat for 40-50 minutes, then proceed to the press. We use a press designed for PET and cardboard at the local center. +We let it heat for 40-50 minutes and then take it to the press. We use a press that is made to press PET and Cardboard at the local recycling center (www.huertoromaverde.org). ![IMG_20200604_115017.jpg](./IMG_20200604_115017.jpg) @@ -84,7 +78,7 @@ Heat for 40-50 minutes, then proceed to the press. We use a press designed for P ### Step 6: The result: Sheets -I'm sorry, I am unable to process your request without the original text for reference. Please provide the text you would like to be rewritten. +Here are the first 3 sheets we made, ![IMG_20200604_171210.jpg](./IMG_20200604_171210.jpg) @@ -97,11 +91,16 @@ I'm sorry, I am unable to process your request without the original text for ref ### Step 7: If you want to know more -Watch the initial segment of the video to understand its functionality: [youtube.com](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gxkcffQD3eQ&t=131s). +Check out the first part of the video where I show how it works: youtube.com: youtube.com/watch?v=gxkcffQD3eQ&t=131s ### Step 8: Try it yourself -Plastic sheets offer versatility for product creation, commonly utilized after CNC milling. They can also be hand-cut for making boxes, signs, and skateboards. Experiment at home and share your results. +Plastic Sheets are very versatile to create different products, we mainly use them after cutting them in the CNC mill. + +But we also have cut them by hand and made boxes, signs and even a skateboard. + +Try it at home and share it with the community, + ![IMG_20200605_142311.jpg](./IMG_20200605_142311.jpg) @@ -113,44 +112,4 @@ Plastic sheets offer versatility for product creation, commonly utilized after C ![IMG_20200720_142403.jpg](./IMG_20200720_142403.jpg) ## Resources -### Tools - -- PET/Cardboard press ([Functionality demo](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gxkcffQD3eQ\&t=131s)) -- Steel tube molds (custom-made to oven dimensions) -- Bread trays (alternative mold option) -- Petroleum jelly (for mold lubrication) -- Mold lid with fastening system - -### Hardware - -- Pizza oven retrofitted with PID temperature controller -- Centrally mounted oven thermometer -- Square steel tube mold frame -- Aluminum sheets (planned for upgraded molds) -- Compression width-restraining frame (future implementation) - -### Software - -- PID controller interface for temperature regulation -- No additional software cited in the process - -*Note: All components were adapted for HDPE sheet production, with oven modifications focusing on precise temperature control at 160°C (320°F).* -## References -## References - -### Articles - -- ~~[Create a Solar Powered Oven out of a Pizza Box](https://www.perkins.org/resource/create-solar-powered-oven-out-pizza-box/)~~ [5] -- [DIY Cardboard Pizza Oven For Kids | Rachael Ray Show](https://www.rachaelrayshow.com/articles/cute-fun-diy-cardboard-brick-pizza-oven-that-will-inspire-your-kids-creativity) [9] -- [How are HDPE sheets and UHMWPE sheets made? - Polyreflex](https://www.polyreflex.com/n1878287/How-are-HDPE-sheets-and-UHMWPE-sheets-made.htm) [11] -- [How Are HDPE Sheets Made?](https://www.ningeplastics.com/blog/how-are-hdpe-sheets-made) [13] - -### YouTube - -- [How To Make A Reusable HDPE Epoxy Resin Table Mold - YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J_0ekhH4UwU) [3] - -### Opensource Designs - -- [Outdoor Pizza Oven - Instructables](https://www.instructables.com/Outdoor-Pizza-Oven-2/) [1] -- [HDPE Plastic Press // Made From Scrap - Instructables](https://www.instructables.com/HDPE-Plastic-Press-Made-From-Scrap/) [7] -- [GitHub - xenodium/xenodium.github.io](https://raw.githubusercontent.com/xenodium/xenodium.github.io/master/index.org) [14] \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/turn-a-pizza-oven-into-a-sheet-oven-/config.json b/howtos/turn-a-pizza-oven-into-a-sheet-oven-/config.json index e8deaa29c..51ba0ce33 100644 --- a/howtos/turn-a-pizza-oven-into-a-sheet-oven-/config.json +++ b/howtos/turn-a-pizza-oven-into-a-sheet-oven-/config.json @@ -71,7 +71,7 @@ "files": [], "_created": "2021-03-26T20:01:17.556Z", "creatorCountry": "mx", - "description": "# How to Create Plastic Sheets Using a Pizza Oven and Cardboard/PET Press\n\nThis guide will demonstrate the process of making plastic sheets with the aid of a pizza oven and a press designed for cardboard/PET materials.", + "description": "On this tutorial I will show you how we do plastic sheets with a pizza oven and a Cardboard/PET press. ", "_modified": "2023-11-15T11:54:29.636Z", "steps": [ { @@ -115,7 +115,7 @@ "alt": "IMG_20200603_170108.jpg" } ], - "text": "We obtained a used pizza oven from a local restaurant at no cost. We sanded, cleaned, and equipped it with a PID controller. The thermometer is centrally located in the oven." + "text": "We got an old pizza oven for free from a local restaurant. Then we sand it down, cleaned it and added a PID controller. The thermometer is in the middle of the oven. \n" }, { "_animationKey": "unique2", @@ -134,10 +134,10 @@ } ], "title": "Making the mold ", - "text": "We constructed a mold using square steel tubes, sized to fit the oven. Alternatively, bread trays can be used.\n\nThe key to producing quality sheets lies in this step. We are continually improving our molds; this instance employs available steel.\n\nFor future molds:\n- Aluminum sheets will be utilized\n- A frame will be added to restrain compression width" + "text": "We created a mold out of square steel tubes. Here is important to do a mold the size of the oven, but you can also use simple bread trays. \n\nI think the magic and complexity of good sheets lays here in this step. We keep making new molds that are far better. but in this case we use steel that was laying around. \n\nFor next molds:\n- We will use aluminum sheets\n- We will add a frame to \"limit\" the compression width" }, { - "text": "Apply a thin layer of petroleum jelly to the mold. Then, add approximately 6.6 pounds (3 kg) of shredded HDPE and secure the mold lid.", + "text": "Now, we add vaseline to the mold and afterwards we add around 3 kg of shredded HDPE and put the mold lid. \n", "_animationKey": "unique3", "images": [ { @@ -182,7 +182,7 @@ { "_animationKey": "uniqueh1v4d", "title": "The process II", - "text": "Certainly! Here's the revised text:\n\n---\n\nTurn on the oven and set the temperature according to the plastic type. We found 160°C (320°F) effective when measured at the oven's center.", + "text": "Now we turn on the oven and regulate the temperature depending on the plastic. We got good results with 160°C, but remember, this was measurred in the middle of the oven. ", "images": [ { "contentType": "image/jpeg", @@ -211,7 +211,7 @@ ] }, { - "text": "Heat for 40-50 minutes, then proceed to the press. We use a press designed for PET and cardboard at the local center.", + "text": "We let it heat for 40-50 minutes and then take it to the press. We use a press that is made to press PET and Cardboard at the local recycling center (www.huertoromaverde.org).", "_animationKey": "uniquet97r8n", "title": "The process III", "images": [ @@ -282,18 +282,18 @@ "alt": "IMG_20200611_160946.jpg" } ], - "text": "I'm sorry, I am unable to process your request without the original text for reference. Please provide the text you would like to be rewritten." + "text": "Here are the first 3 sheets we made," }, { "_animationKey": "uniqueit56p", "videoUrl": "https://youtu.be/gxkcffQD3eQ", "images": [], "title": "If you want to know more", - "text": "Watch the initial segment of the video to understand its functionality: [youtube.com](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gxkcffQD3eQ&t=131s)." + "text": "Check out the first part of the video where I show how it works: youtube.com: youtube.com/watch?v=gxkcffQD3eQ&t=131s" }, { "_animationKey": "unique4rbte", - "text": "Plastic sheets offer versatility for product creation, commonly utilized after CNC milling. They can also be hand-cut for making boxes, signs, and skateboards. Experiment at home and share your results.", + "text": "Plastic Sheets are very versatile to create different products, we mainly use them after cutting them in the CNC mill.\n\nBut we also have cut them by hand and made boxes, signs and even a skateboard. \n\nTry it at home and share it with the community,\n", "images": [ { "type": "image/jpeg", @@ -466,9 +466,5 @@ "urls": [] } }, - "content": "# How to Create Plastic Sheets Using a Pizza Oven and Cardboard/PET Press\n\nThis guide will demonstrate the process of making plastic sheets with the aid of a pizza oven and a press designed for cardboard/PET materials.\n\n\nUser Location: Mexico City, Mexico\n\nWe obtained a used pizza oven from a local restaurant at no cost. We sanded, cleaned, and equipped it with a PID controller. The thermometer is centrally located in the oven.\n\nWe constructed a mold using square steel tubes, sized to fit the oven. Alternatively, bread trays can be used.\n\nThe key to producing quality sheets lies in this step. We are continually improving our molds; this instance employs available steel.\n\nFor future molds:\n- Aluminum sheets will be utilized\n- A frame will be added to restrain compression width\n\nApply a thin layer of petroleum jelly to the mold. Then, add approximately 6.6 pounds (3 kg) of shredded HDPE and secure the mold lid.\n\nCertainly! Here's the revised text:\n\n---\n\nTurn on the oven and set the temperature according to the plastic type. We found 160°C (320°F) effective when measured at the oven's center.\n\nHeat for 40-50 minutes, then proceed to the press. We use a press designed for PET and cardboard at the local center.\n\nI'm sorry, I am unable to process your request without the original text for reference. Please provide the text you would like to be rewritten.\n\nWatch the initial segment of the video to understand its functionality: [youtube.com](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gxkcffQD3eQ&t=131s).\n\nPlastic sheets offer versatility for product creation, commonly utilized after CNC milling. They can also be hand-cut for making boxes, signs, and skateboards. Experiment at home and share your results.", - "keywords": "Plastic sheets, pizza oven, PET press, recycled plastic, DIY plastic sheets, HDPE molds, homemade plastic sheets, CNC milling plastic, plastic sheet press, Mexico City recycling", - "resources": "### Tools\n\n- PET/Cardboard press ([Functionality demo](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gxkcffQD3eQ\\&t=131s))\n- Steel tube molds (custom-made to oven dimensions)\n- Bread trays (alternative mold option)\n- Petroleum jelly (for mold lubrication)\n- Mold lid with fastening system\n\n### Hardware\n\n- Pizza oven retrofitted with PID temperature controller\n- Centrally mounted oven thermometer\n- Square steel tube mold frame\n- Aluminum sheets (planned for upgraded molds)\n- Compression width-restraining frame (future implementation)\n\n### Software\n\n- PID controller interface for temperature regulation\n- No additional software cited in the process\n\n*Note: All components were adapted for HDPE sheet production, with oven modifications focusing on precise temperature control at 160°C (320°F).*", - "references": "## References\n\n### Articles\n\n- ~~[Create a Solar Powered Oven out of a Pizza Box](https://www.perkins.org/resource/create-solar-powered-oven-out-pizza-box/)~~ [5]\n- [DIY Cardboard Pizza Oven For Kids | Rachael Ray Show](https://www.rachaelrayshow.com/articles/cute-fun-diy-cardboard-brick-pizza-oven-that-will-inspire-your-kids-creativity) [9]\n- [How are HDPE sheets and UHMWPE sheets made? - Polyreflex](https://www.polyreflex.com/n1878287/How-are-HDPE-sheets-and-UHMWPE-sheets-made.htm) [11]\n- [How Are HDPE Sheets Made?](https://www.ningeplastics.com/blog/how-are-hdpe-sheets-made) [13]\n\n### YouTube\n\n- [How To Make A Reusable HDPE Epoxy Resin Table Mold - YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J_0ekhH4UwU) [3]\n\n### Opensource Designs\n\n- [Outdoor Pizza Oven - Instructables](https://www.instructables.com/Outdoor-Pizza-Oven-2/) [1]\n- [HDPE Plastic Press // Made From Scrap - Instructables](https://www.instructables.com/HDPE-Plastic-Press-Made-From-Scrap/) [7]\n- [GitHub - xenodium/xenodium.github.io](https://raw.githubusercontent.com/xenodium/xenodium.github.io/master/index.org) [14]", - "brief": "Create durable plastic sheets at home using a pizza oven and a PET press, perfect for various projects like boxes, signs, and skateboards. Experiment today!" + "content": "On this tutorial I will show you how we do plastic sheets with a pizza oven and a Cardboard/PET press. \n\n\nUser Location: Mexico City, Mexico\n\nWe got an old pizza oven for free from a local restaurant. Then we sand it down, cleaned it and added a PID controller. The thermometer is in the middle of the oven. \n\n\nWe created a mold out of square steel tubes. Here is important to do a mold the size of the oven, but you can also use simple bread trays. \n\nI think the magic and complexity of good sheets lays here in this step. We keep making new molds that are far better. but in this case we use steel that was laying around. \n\nFor next molds:\n- We will use aluminum sheets\n- We will add a frame to \"limit\" the compression width\n\nNow, we add vaseline to the mold and afterwards we add around 3 kg of shredded HDPE and put the mold lid. \n\n\nNow we turn on the oven and regulate the temperature depending on the plastic. We got good results with 160°C, but remember, this was measurred in the middle of the oven. \n\nWe let it heat for 40-50 minutes and then take it to the press. We use a press that is made to press PET and Cardboard at the local recycling center (www.huertoromaverde.org).\n\nHere are the first 3 sheets we made,\n\nCheck out the first part of the video where I show how it works: youtube.com: youtube.com/watch?v=gxkcffQD3eQ&t=131s\n\nPlastic Sheets are very versatile to create different products, we mainly use them after cutting them in the CNC mill.\n\nBut we also have cut them by hand and made boxes, signs and even a skateboard. \n\nTry it at home and share it with the community,\n" } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/uao-vertical-manual-injection-machine/README.md b/howtos/uao-vertical-manual-injection-machine/README.md index 9e2224617..93bc24e45 100644 --- a/howtos/uao-vertical-manual-injection-machine/README.md +++ b/howtos/uao-vertical-manual-injection-machine/README.md @@ -1,23 +1,29 @@ --- title: UAO vertical manual injection machine slug: uao-vertical-manual-injection-machine -description: Following the initial models, I designed a manual vertical desktop injection molding machine in SolidWorks, incorporating most details. This machine, which requires no welding, has an injection capacity of approximately 90 grams (3.17 ounces) and operates at 110 volts. The parts have been manufactured, assembled, and successfully tested. I aim to enhance temperature regulation by implementing the PID technique. Currently, I am constructing the mold. The 3D model of the machine is available in the "Ensamblaje.SLDASM" file. Additional resources include DXF files and building drawings. +description: Following the initial precious plastic models, I modeled in SolidWorks with most of the detail, a manual vertical desktop injection molding machine that does not require welding processes. Its injection capacity is approximately 90 grams and the voltage is 110Volts. +Parts already were manufactured and machine was assembled. It also was tested and is working well. I am looking to improve the behavior of the temperature by using the PID technique to have a better temperature control. In the process of building the mold. +In the file called Ensamblaje.SLDASM you can find the 3D model of the machine. +There is also a file with some DXF files and Building drawings too. tags: ["injection"] category: Machines difficulty: Easy time: < 5 hours -keywords: vertical injection molding machine, SolidWorks design, manual assembly, temperature control PID, 3D model Ensamblaje.SLDASM, DXF files, component assembly, Cali Colombia, mechanical linkage, electrical components installation +keywords: location: Cali, Colombia --- # UAO vertical manual injection machine ![UAO vertical manual injection machine](WhatsApp_Image_2023-12-17_at_2.15.40_AM-18c76a201aa.jpeg) -Following the initial models, I designed a manual vertical desktop injection molding machine in SolidWorks, incorporating most details. This machine, which requires no welding, has an injection capacity of approximately 90 grams (3.17 ounces) and operates at 110 volts. The parts have been manufactured, assembled, and successfully tested. I aim to enhance temperature regulation by implementing the PID technique. Currently, I am constructing the mold. The 3D model of the machine is available in the "Ensamblaje.SLDASM" file. Additional resources include DXF files and building drawings. +Following the initial precious plastic models, I modeled in SolidWorks with most of the detail, a manual vertical desktop injection molding machine that does not require welding processes. Its injection capacity is approximately 90 grams and the voltage is 110Volts. +Parts already were manufactured and machine was assembled. It also was tested and is working well. I am looking to improve the behavior of the temperature by using the PID technique to have a better temperature control. In the process of building the mold. +In the file called Ensamblaje.SLDASM you can find the 3D model of the machine. +There is also a file with some DXF files and Building drawings too. User Location: Cali, Colombia ## Steps ### Step 1: PARTS and tools for assembly. -First, gather all necessary components for assembling the injector machine. Some parts are produced using tools such as lathes or water pressure machines, with straightforward manufacturing processes. Detailed drawings are available. The assembly consists of 20 parts and 19 screws with washers and nuts. Welding is not needed. A 5/16" (8mm) Allen key is required. +First at all, it is important to set all the parts required to start to assembly the injector machine. Some of the parts have been milled or cut with special tools like lathes or water pressure machine, however manufactured process has been very simple and drawings are provided with all detailed. There are 20 parts and 19 screws with washer and nuts. No welding is required. One 5/16" Allen key and ![WhatsApp Image 2023-12-02 at 10.45.25 AM-18c2c4f5126.jpeg](./WhatsApp_Image_2023-12-02_at_10.45.25_AM-18c2c4f5126.jpeg) @@ -30,7 +36,7 @@ First, gather all necessary components for assembling the injector machine. Some ### Step 2: Base assembly -To assemble the base, you will need 4 square tubes, 4 plates, and 4 90-degree bent plates, along with 10 screws and nuts (3/8"), an Allen key, and a wrench. Begin by arranging the tubes into an H shape. Insert the screws through the holes and tighten with the provided tools. +Base assembly requires 4 square tubes, 4 plates, 4 bended plates 90 degrees. 10 screws with nut 3/8". Allen key an wrench. First, its important to form an H shape with the tubes, then guide the screws through the holes. Tight up and done. ![WhatsApp Image 2023-12-02 at 10.54.35 AM-18c2c62e7e4.jpeg](./WhatsApp_Image_2023-12-02_at_10.54.35_AM-18c2c62e7e4.jpeg) @@ -43,7 +49,7 @@ To assemble the base, you will need 4 square tubes, 4 plates, and 4 90-degree be ### Step 3: Barrel holder, clamps and barrel -To assemble, use screws and nuts to secure the triangle plate that holds the clamps and barrel. Each hole is designed for 3/8-inch (9.525 mm) screws. +In the same way, use screws and nuts to set up the triangle plate which holds the clamps and thus, the holds the barrel. Every part and perforation is made for 3/8 inches screw. ![WhatsApp Image 2023-12-02 at 11.29.20 AM-18c2c674892.jpeg](./WhatsApp_Image_2023-12-02_at_11.29.20_AM-18c2c674892.jpeg) @@ -56,9 +62,7 @@ To assemble, use screws and nuts to secure the triangle plate that holds the cla ### Step 4: Long linkage mechanism -# Assembly Instructions for Long Linkage Mechanism - -Utilize the two longest links, attaching them using two 2 x 3/5 inch (15 mm) Allen screws, along with double washers and nuts. Ensure the assembly is not overtightened, as this component needs to remain movable. +Long linkage mechanism. Here use the two longest links and install them with the help of two 2 x 3/5" Allen screws, double washer and nuts. Do not tight too much because this is a movable part. ![WhatsApp Image 2023-12-02 at 11.40.32 AM-18c2c71f9a2.jpeg](./WhatsApp_Image_2023-12-02_at_11.40.32_AM-18c2c71f9a2.jpeg) @@ -71,7 +75,7 @@ Utilize the two longest links, attaching them using two 2 x 3/5 inch (15 mm) All ### Step 5: Shaft and handler. -Install the shaft for injection purposes and the handler. Insert the shaft into the barrel and secure it with a screw. Ensure the nozzle is installed. Attach the handler bar to the mechanical link and use the short mechanical link to hold the shaft. Use a 3/8-inch Allen screw and an Allen key for the entire assembly process. +Finally, Shaft for injection purpose and handler need to be installed. First insert the shaft into the barrel. It can be held with a screw. Make sure the nozzle is installed too. Then, screw the handler bar to the mechanical link and use the short mechanical link to held the shaft. As mention before, use 3/8 Allen screw an Allen key for all the assembly process. ![WhatsApp Image 2023-12-02 at 11.44.17 AM-18c2c824789.jpeg](./WhatsApp_Image_2023-12-02_at_11.44.17_AM-18c2c824789.jpeg) @@ -84,7 +88,8 @@ Install the shaft for injection purposes and the handler. Insert the shaft into ### Step 6: Electronics -Install two temperature controls, two solid state relays, one current differential protection, one switch, and two resistors. To handle 100 grams (3.53 ounces) of material, resistors should support 550 watts at 120 volts. Use AWG 18 and 14 gauge wires for power. Two Autonics temperature controllers assist with PID temperature management. +Install two temperature controls, two solid state relays, one current differential protection, one switch and two resistors. +Because I wanted to have a large quantity of material to inject, I mean to be able to work with 100 grams of material, resistors have a capacity of 550 watts at 120 volts. There were used solid state relays also a differential current protection C10. Wires AWG gauge 18 and 14 for power. Two temperature controllers Autonics brand were used for PID temperature assistance. ![WhatsApp Image 2023-12-17 at 2.19.24 AM-18c76aeb40d.jpeg](./WhatsApp_Image_2023-12-17_at_2.19.24_AM-18c76aeb40d.jpeg) @@ -96,58 +101,4 @@ Install two temperature controls, two solid state relays, one current differenti ![WhatsApp Image 2023-12-17 at 2.31.36 AM-18c76b1f4db.jpeg](./WhatsApp_Image_2023-12-17_at_2.31.36_AM-18c76b1f4db.jpeg) ## Resources -The tutorial outlines a manual vertical desktop injection molding machine design and assembly process. Below is the extracted list of required tools, software, and hardware: - -### Software - -- SolidWorks ([solidworks.com](https://www.solidworks.com/)) - For designing the machine and 3D model ("Ensamblaje.SLDASM") - -### Hardware - -- 3/8-inch (9.525mm) screws, nuts, and washers - For securing base, linkages, and plates[1][2] -- 5/16-inch (8mm) Allen screws - Used in long linkage mechanisms[1][3] -- 550W resistors (120V) - Heat management for ~100g material[1][4] -- Autonics temperature controllers (~~[PID controllers](https://www.autonics.com/products/controllers_temperature_controllers)~~) - Temperature regulation[1][4] -- AWG 14 & 18 gauge wires - Electrical connections for resistors and relays[1][4] - -### Tools - -- 5/16-inch (8mm) Allen key - For base assembly and linkages[1][2] -- 3/8-inch (9.525mm) Allen key - Used for majority of assembly[1][3] -- Wrench - Tightening nuts during assembly[1][2] -- Lathe - Machining custom components like shafts[1][4] -- Water pressure machine - Forming bent plates and structural elements[1][3] - -The design avoids welding and prioritizes screw-based assembly, with 19 fasteners and 20 custom-machined parts[1]. DXF files and fabrication drawings are referenced for component manufacturing[1]. -## References -## References - -### Articles - -- [Injection Molding: The Manufacturing & Design Guide](https://www.hubs.com/guides/injection-molding/) -- [The Custom Injection Molding Process: From Design to Finished Product](https://rapidaxis.com/the-custom-injection-molding-process-from-design-to-finished-product/) -- [Guide to Low-Volume Injection Molding](https://formlabs.com/blog/low-volume-injection-molding/) -- [3D Printing Applications: Injection Molding](https://formlabs.com/applications/injection-molding/) -- [How To Make Injection Molds](https://www.immould.com/diy-injection-molding-how-to-make-injection-molds/) -- [How to Build Your Own Injection Molding Machine](https://www.machinedesign.com/3d-printing-cad/article/21263614/how-to-build-your-own-injection-molding-machine) -- [Designing Molds Quickly, Accurately, and Cost-Effectively with SolidWorks](https://fea-tc.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/DesignMolds-1.pdf) - -### Books - -- [Injection Molding Handbook 2e - Tim A. Osswald](https://www.target.com/p/injection-molding-handbook-2e-2nd-edition-by-tim-a-osswald-hardcover/-/A-93194461) -- [Injection Molding Handbook 2E / Edition 2 - Barnes & Noble](https://www.barnesandnoble.com/w/injection-molding-handbook-2e-tim-a-osswald/1127765511) -- [Injection Molding Handbook by D. V. Rosato](https://app.pangobooks.com/books/51bbe26f-d977-49a1-8529-947866b78351-cobtPk7mRdf4sjSULG20pwifrqg2) - -### Papers - -- [Analysis of the Machine-Specific Behavior of Injection Molding (PMC)](https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC10781171/) -- ~~[Design of Pedal Operated Machine for Injection Moulding (CiteSeerX)](https://citeseerx.ist.psu.edu/document?repid=rep1\&type=pdf\&doi=2d21d208bf921ec8278814cfbee00e60e54acfb4)~~ - -### YouTube - -- [#1 - Designing an Injection Mold](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=viwbxM6F7zc) -- [Getting Started with SOLIDWORKS Mold Tools](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=khPh1z7e6ik) - -### Open-Source Designs - -- Make Open-Source Arbor Press Injection Machine \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/uao-vertical-manual-injection-machine/config.json b/howtos/uao-vertical-manual-injection-machine/config.json index d83dd4b69..072e32a09 100644 --- a/howtos/uao-vertical-manual-injection-machine/config.json +++ b/howtos/uao-vertical-manual-injection-machine/config.json @@ -42,7 +42,7 @@ ], "title": "PARTS and tools for assembly.", "_animationKey": "unique1", - "text": "First, gather all necessary components for assembling the injector machine. Some parts are produced using tools such as lathes or water pressure machines, with straightforward manufacturing processes. Detailed drawings are available. The assembly consists of 20 parts and 19 screws with washers and nuts. Welding is not needed. A 5/16\" (8mm) Allen key is required." + "text": "First at all, it is important to set all the parts required to start to assembly the injector machine. Some of the parts have been milled or cut with special tools like lathes or water pressure machine, however manufactured process has been very simple and drawings are provided with all detailed. There are 20 parts and 19 screws with washer and nuts. No welding is required. One 5/16\" Allen key and" }, { "images": [ @@ -84,7 +84,7 @@ } ], "_animationKey": "unique2", - "text": "To assemble the base, you will need 4 square tubes, 4 plates, and 4 90-degree bent plates, along with 10 screws and nuts (3/8\"), an Allen key, and a wrench. Begin by arranging the tubes into an H shape. Insert the screws through the holes and tighten with the provided tools.", + "text": "Base assembly requires 4 square tubes, 4 plates, 4 bended plates 90 degrees. 10 screws with nut 3/8\". Allen key an wrench. First, its important to form an H shape with the tubes, then guide the screws through the holes. Tight up and done.", "title": "Base assembly" }, { @@ -128,12 +128,12 @@ ], "title": "Barrel holder, clamps and barrel", "_animationKey": "unique3", - "text": "To assemble, use screws and nuts to secure the triangle plate that holds the clamps and barrel. Each hole is designed for 3/8-inch (9.525 mm) screws." + "text": "In the same way, use screws and nuts to set up the triangle plate which holds the clamps and thus, the holds the barrel. Every part and perforation is made for 3/8 inches screw." }, { "_animationKey": "uniques0p1qh", "title": "Long linkage mechanism", - "text": "# Assembly Instructions for Long Linkage Mechanism\n\nUtilize the two longest links, attaching them using two 2 x 3/5 inch (15 mm) Allen screws, along with double washers and nuts. Ensure the assembly is not overtightened, as this component needs to remain movable.", + "text": "Long linkage mechanism. Here use the two longest links and install them with the help of two 2 x 3/5\" Allen screws, double washer and nuts. Do not tight too much because this is a movable part.", "images": [ { "downloadUrl": "https://firebasestorage.googleapis.com/v0/b/onearmyworld.appspot.com/o/uploads%2Fhowtos%2FvHYs38o3J81xLZpmqYSM%2FWhatsApp%20Image%202023-12-02%20at%2011.40.32%20AM-18c2c71f9a2.jpeg?alt=media&token=2a12affa-f7a3-4136-8012-34b9541b3971", @@ -213,11 +213,11 @@ } ], "title": "Shaft and handler.", - "text": "Install the shaft for injection purposes and the handler. Insert the shaft into the barrel and secure it with a screw. Ensure the nozzle is installed. Attach the handler bar to the mechanical link and use the short mechanical link to hold the shaft. Use a 3/8-inch Allen screw and an Allen key for the entire assembly process.", + "text": "Finally, Shaft for injection purpose and handler need to be installed. First insert the shaft into the barrel. It can be held with a screw. Make sure the nozzle is installed too. Then, screw the handler bar to the mechanical link and use the short mechanical link to held the shaft. As mention before, use 3/8 Allen screw an Allen key for all the assembly process.", "_animationKey": "uniquexu16w" }, { - "text": "Install two temperature controls, two solid state relays, one current differential protection, one switch, and two resistors. To handle 100 grams (3.53 ounces) of material, resistors should support 550 watts at 120 volts. Use AWG 18 and 14 gauge wires for power. Two Autonics temperature controllers assist with PID temperature management.", + "text": "Install two temperature controls, two solid state relays, one current differential protection, one switch and two resistors.\nBecause I wanted to have a large quantity of material to inject, I mean to be able to work with 100 grams of material, resistors have a capacity of 550 watts at 120 volts. There were used solid state relays also a differential current protection C10. Wires AWG gauge 18 and 14 for power. Two temperature controllers Autonics brand were used for PID temperature assistance.", "images": [ { "contentType": "image/jpeg", @@ -268,7 +268,7 @@ "dobsche" ], "total_downloads": 5, - "description": "Following the initial models, I designed a manual vertical desktop injection molding machine in SolidWorks, incorporating most details. This machine, which requires no welding, has an injection capacity of approximately 90 grams (3.17 ounces) and operates at 110 volts. The parts have been manufactured, assembled, and successfully tested. I aim to enhance temperature regulation by implementing the PID technique. Currently, I am constructing the mold. The 3D model of the machine is available in the \"Ensamblaje.SLDASM\" file. Additional resources include DXF files and building drawings.", + "description": "Following the initial precious plastic models, I modeled in SolidWorks with most of the detail, a manual vertical desktop injection molding machine that does not require welding processes. Its injection capacity is approximately 90 grams and the voltage is 110Volts.\nParts already were manufactured and machine was assembled. It also was tested and is working well. I am looking to improve the behavior of the temperature by using the PID technique to have a better temperature control. In the process of building the mold. \nIn the file called Ensamblaje.SLDASM you can find the 3D model of the machine.\nThere is also a file with some DXF files and Building drawings too.", "_created": "2023-10-23T03:10:40.145Z", "cover_image": { "type": "image/jpeg", @@ -457,9 +457,5 @@ "urls": [] } }, - "content": "Following the initial models, I designed a manual vertical desktop injection molding machine in SolidWorks, incorporating most details. This machine, which requires no welding, has an injection capacity of approximately 90 grams (3.17 ounces) and operates at 110 volts. The parts have been manufactured, assembled, and successfully tested. I aim to enhance temperature regulation by implementing the PID technique. Currently, I am constructing the mold. The 3D model of the machine is available in the \"Ensamblaje.SLDASM\" file. Additional resources include DXF files and building drawings.\n\n\nUser Location: Cali, Colombia\n\nFirst, gather all necessary components for assembling the injector machine. Some parts are produced using tools such as lathes or water pressure machines, with straightforward manufacturing processes. Detailed drawings are available. The assembly consists of 20 parts and 19 screws with washers and nuts. Welding is not needed. A 5/16\" (8mm) Allen key is required.\n\nTo assemble the base, you will need 4 square tubes, 4 plates, and 4 90-degree bent plates, along with 10 screws and nuts (3/8\"), an Allen key, and a wrench. Begin by arranging the tubes into an H shape. Insert the screws through the holes and tighten with the provided tools.\n\nTo assemble, use screws and nuts to secure the triangle plate that holds the clamps and barrel. Each hole is designed for 3/8-inch (9.525 mm) screws.\n\n# Assembly Instructions for Long Linkage Mechanism\n\nUtilize the two longest links, attaching them using two 2 x 3/5 inch (15 mm) Allen screws, along with double washers and nuts. Ensure the assembly is not overtightened, as this component needs to remain movable.\n\nInstall the shaft for injection purposes and the handler. Insert the shaft into the barrel and secure it with a screw. Ensure the nozzle is installed. Attach the handler bar to the mechanical link and use the short mechanical link to hold the shaft. Use a 3/8-inch Allen screw and an Allen key for the entire assembly process.\n\nInstall two temperature controls, two solid state relays, one current differential protection, one switch, and two resistors. To handle 100 grams (3.53 ounces) of material, resistors should support 550 watts at 120 volts. Use AWG 18 and 14 gauge wires for power. Two Autonics temperature controllers assist with PID temperature management.", - "keywords": "vertical injection molding machine, SolidWorks design, manual assembly, temperature control PID, 3D model Ensamblaje.SLDASM, DXF files, component assembly, Cali Colombia, mechanical linkage, electrical components installation", - "resources": "The tutorial outlines a manual vertical desktop injection molding machine design and assembly process. Below is the extracted list of required tools, software, and hardware:\n\n### Software\n\n- SolidWorks ([solidworks.com](https://www.solidworks.com/)) - For designing the machine and 3D model (\"Ensamblaje.SLDASM\")\n\n### Hardware\n\n- 3/8-inch (9.525mm) screws, nuts, and washers - For securing base, linkages, and plates[1][2]\n- 5/16-inch (8mm) Allen screws - Used in long linkage mechanisms[1][3]\n- 550W resistors (120V) - Heat management for ~100g material[1][4]\n- Autonics temperature controllers (~~[PID controllers](https://www.autonics.com/products/controllers_temperature_controllers)~~) - Temperature regulation[1][4]\n- AWG 14 & 18 gauge wires - Electrical connections for resistors and relays[1][4]\n\n### Tools\n\n- 5/16-inch (8mm) Allen key - For base assembly and linkages[1][2]\n- 3/8-inch (9.525mm) Allen key - Used for majority of assembly[1][3]\n- Wrench - Tightening nuts during assembly[1][2]\n- Lathe - Machining custom components like shafts[1][4]\n- Water pressure machine - Forming bent plates and structural elements[1][3]\n\nThe design avoids welding and prioritizes screw-based assembly, with 19 fasteners and 20 custom-machined parts[1]. DXF files and fabrication drawings are referenced for component manufacturing[1].", - "references": "## References\n\n### Articles\n\n- [Injection Molding: The Manufacturing & Design Guide](https://www.hubs.com/guides/injection-molding/)\n- [The Custom Injection Molding Process: From Design to Finished Product](https://rapidaxis.com/the-custom-injection-molding-process-from-design-to-finished-product/)\n- [Guide to Low-Volume Injection Molding](https://formlabs.com/blog/low-volume-injection-molding/)\n- [3D Printing Applications: Injection Molding](https://formlabs.com/applications/injection-molding/)\n- [How To Make Injection Molds](https://www.immould.com/diy-injection-molding-how-to-make-injection-molds/)\n- [How to Build Your Own Injection Molding Machine](https://www.machinedesign.com/3d-printing-cad/article/21263614/how-to-build-your-own-injection-molding-machine)\n- [Designing Molds Quickly, Accurately, and Cost-Effectively with SolidWorks](https://fea-tc.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/DesignMolds-1.pdf)\n\n### Books\n\n- [Injection Molding Handbook 2e - Tim A. Osswald](https://www.target.com/p/injection-molding-handbook-2e-2nd-edition-by-tim-a-osswald-hardcover/-/A-93194461)\n- [Injection Molding Handbook 2E / Edition 2 - Barnes & Noble](https://www.barnesandnoble.com/w/injection-molding-handbook-2e-tim-a-osswald/1127765511)\n- [Injection Molding Handbook by D. V. Rosato](https://app.pangobooks.com/books/51bbe26f-d977-49a1-8529-947866b78351-cobtPk7mRdf4sjSULG20pwifrqg2)\n\n### Papers\n\n- [Analysis of the Machine-Specific Behavior of Injection Molding (PMC)](https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC10781171/)\n- ~~[Design of Pedal Operated Machine for Injection Moulding (CiteSeerX)](https://citeseerx.ist.psu.edu/document?repid=rep1\\&type=pdf\\&doi=2d21d208bf921ec8278814cfbee00e60e54acfb4)~~\n\n### YouTube\n\n- [#1 - Designing an Injection Mold](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=viwbxM6F7zc)\n- [Getting Started with SOLIDWORKS Mold Tools](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=khPh1z7e6ik)\n\n### Open-Source Designs\n\n- Make Open-Source Arbor Press Injection Machine", - "brief": "Manual vertical desktop injection molding machine design with 90g capacity, 110V operation, and no welding needed. Enhance with PID temperature control." + "content": "Following the initial precious plastic models, I modeled in SolidWorks with most of the detail, a manual vertical desktop injection molding machine that does not require welding processes. Its injection capacity is approximately 90 grams and the voltage is 110Volts.\nParts already were manufactured and machine was assembled. It also was tested and is working well. I am looking to improve the behavior of the temperature by using the PID technique to have a better temperature control. In the process of building the mold. \nIn the file called Ensamblaje.SLDASM you can find the 3D model of the machine.\nThere is also a file with some DXF files and Building drawings too.\n\n\nUser Location: Cali, Colombia\n\nFirst at all, it is important to set all the parts required to start to assembly the injector machine. Some of the parts have been milled or cut with special tools like lathes or water pressure machine, however manufactured process has been very simple and drawings are provided with all detailed. There are 20 parts and 19 screws with washer and nuts. No welding is required. One 5/16\" Allen key and\n\nBase assembly requires 4 square tubes, 4 plates, 4 bended plates 90 degrees. 10 screws with nut 3/8\". Allen key an wrench. First, its important to form an H shape with the tubes, then guide the screws through the holes. Tight up and done.\n\nIn the same way, use screws and nuts to set up the triangle plate which holds the clamps and thus, the holds the barrel. Every part and perforation is made for 3/8 inches screw.\n\nLong linkage mechanism. Here use the two longest links and install them with the help of two 2 x 3/5\" Allen screws, double washer and nuts. Do not tight too much because this is a movable part.\n\nFinally, Shaft for injection purpose and handler need to be installed. First insert the shaft into the barrel. It can be held with a screw. Make sure the nozzle is installed too. Then, screw the handler bar to the mechanical link and use the short mechanical link to held the shaft. As mention before, use 3/8 Allen screw an Allen key for all the assembly process.\n\nInstall two temperature controls, two solid state relays, one current differential protection, one switch and two resistors.\nBecause I wanted to have a large quantity of material to inject, I mean to be able to work with 100 grams of material, resistors have a capacity of 550 watts at 120 volts. There were used solid state relays also a differential current protection C10. Wires AWG gauge 18 and 14 for power. Two temperature controllers Autonics brand were used for PID temperature assistance." } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/upgrade-your-toaster-oven/README.md b/howtos/upgrade-your-toaster-oven/README.md index c420d2d51..b8ea5e203 100644 --- a/howtos/upgrade-your-toaster-oven/README.md +++ b/howtos/upgrade-your-toaster-oven/README.md @@ -1,62 +1,45 @@ --- title: Upgrade your Toaster Oven slug: upgrade-your-toaster-oven -description: ### Toaster Oven Modification Tutorial - -This modification aims to enhance the heating efficiency and temperature accuracy of an entry-level toaster oven by replacing the original thermostat with a REX-C100 Digital PID Temperature Controller, available from various online retailers at a low cost. Additionally, install fiberglass insulation, which can withstand temperatures up to 1004°F (540°C), to improve heat retention. Be cautious when placing insulation to avoid obstructing the oven's mechanical functions. Fiber cement may also assist in insulating the oven. +description: This mod to a entry level toaster oven will increase heating efficiency and temperature accuracy of the oven. It requires substituting the thermostat that the toaster oven comes with to a REX-C100 Digital PID Temperature Controller. This controller is obtained from Aliexpress and is relatively cheap. The second part of the mod is to install some fibre-glass insulation. This is rated to around 540c so should be able to easily handle the toaster oven's maximum temperature. You have to be selective where you put the insulation as it can impede the mechanical operation of the taster oven. You can also use fibre cement to help insulate your oven. tags: ["melting"] category: Machines difficulty: Medium time: < 5 hours -keywords: Toaster oven modification, heating efficiency, digital PID temperature controller, REX-C100, fiberglass insulation, electrical safety, thermostat replacement, SSR connections, wiring insulation, oven temperature accuracy +keywords: location: Michelago, Australia --- # Upgrade your Toaster Oven ![Upgrade your Toaster Oven](ToasteOvenMod-18cd7fc9c38.jpg) -### Toaster Oven Modification Tutorial - -This modification aims to enhance the heating efficiency and temperature accuracy of an entry-level toaster oven by replacing the original thermostat with a REX-C100 Digital PID Temperature Controller, available from various online retailers at a low cost. Additionally, install fiberglass insulation, which can withstand temperatures up to 1004°F (540°C), to improve heat retention. Be cautious when placing insulation to avoid obstructing the oven's mechanical functions. Fiber cement may also assist in insulating the oven. +This mod to a entry level toaster oven will increase heating efficiency and temperature accuracy of the oven. It requires substituting the thermostat that the toaster oven comes with to a REX-C100 Digital PID Temperature Controller. This controller is obtained from Aliexpress and is relatively cheap. The second part of the mod is to install some fibre-glass insulation. This is rated to around 540c so should be able to easily handle the toaster oven's maximum temperature. You have to be selective where you put the insulation as it can impede the mechanical operation of the taster oven. You can also use fibre cement to help insulate your oven. User Location: Michelago, Australia ## Steps ### Step 1: Safety First! -## Electrical Safety +Electrical Safety: +Unplug the toaster oven before starting any work. +Use appropriate tools: Use insulated screwdrivers, wear electrical safety gloves. +Double-check wiring: Ensure connections are secure and properly insulated. +Before using the modified oven, test it in a safe environment to ensure it functions correctly and doesn't overheat. +Consult a qualified electrician if you're unsure about any electrical aspects of the modification. -1. **Unplug the Device**: Ensure the toaster oven is disconnected from the power source before beginning any work. - -2. **Use Proper Tools**: Employ insulated screwdrivers and wear electrical safety gloves. - -3. **Check Connections**: Verify that all wires are securely connected and properly insulated. - -4. **Test the Modification**: Operate the modified oven in a controlled setting to confirm correct function and prevent overheating. - -5. **Seek Expertise**: Consult a qualified electrician if any electrical modification is unclear. - -## Safety Considerations - -- **Monitor Initial Use**: Observe the oven closely during its first use to identify any fire hazards. - -- **Handle Insulation Safely**: Wear protective gloves, long sleeves, and a mask when dealing with fiberglass insulation to prevent skin and respiratory issues. - -- **Follow Instructions**: Adhere to the manufacturer's guidelines for both the toaster oven and the REX controller. - -- **Do Not Leave Unattended**: Never operate the modified oven without supervision. - -Prioritize safety when working with electrical devices. If unsure about your skills or safety, obtain professional help. +Considerations: +Monitor first use: Stay vigilant during the initial use of the modified oven to detect any potential fire hazard. +Handle fiberglass insulation carefully: Wear protective gloves, long sleeves, and a mask to avoid skin and respiratory irritation. +Read and follow the manufacturer's instructions for both the toaster oven and the REX controller +Never leave the modified oven unattended while in use. +Safety is paramount when working with electrical appliances. If you have any doubts about your abilities or safety, seek professional assistance ![_709fbe59-2578-4085-80d9-a90ccc679ca2-18d020fd1c7.jpeg](./_709fbe59-2578-4085-80d9-a90ccc679ca2-18d020fd1c7.jpeg) ### Step 2: Removing the cover and identifying the thermostat. -### Instructions for Thermostat Access and Wiring +Make sure you have the toaster oven unplugged from the power socket. -1. Unplug the toaster oven. -2. Remove the main cover screws and carefully lift off the cover. -3. Identify the thermostat located behind the temperature dial. -4. Detach the two brown wires from the thermostat; connect them to terminals 1 and 2 on the 24~380VAC side of the SSR. -5. Ensure correct polarity when connecting the SSR's other terminals to the EX-C100 Digital PID Temperature Controller. +1. Locate the screws that holds the main cover in place and remove them. +2.Carefully and without force, remove the cover. as shown in picture one, identify the thermostat. It will be behind the front dial that is used to change the temperature of the toaster oven. Please note in picture 1 that I have already removed the 2 wires from the thermostat (brown wires with spade connectors). the wires on either side of the thermostat should be connected to the SSR on terminals 1 and 2 on the 24~380VAC side illustrated on the SSR. The terminals on the other side of the SSR go to the EX-C100 Digital PID Temperature Controller. Be aware that those 2 wires need to be connected with the correct polarity. ![Toaster thermostat1-18cd7d89e53.jpg](./Toaster_thermostat1-18cd7d89e53.jpg) @@ -69,7 +52,7 @@ Prioritize safety when working with electrical devices. If unsure about your ski ### Step 3: Install the temperature probe. -With the K-type probe, I removed the rotisserie motor from the toaster oven and secured the probe in one of the existing holes. You may need a suitable nut for the probe and might have to drill a hole in the oven wall to position the probe in the heated area. Note: In Picture 1, the probe and two heating elements are circled. When the oven is on, electricity flows through the elements. Apply fiberglass insulation around them to avoid short circuits from the probe wire. Only place insulation between the wall and all wires of the toaster oven; the SSR should not be covered as it requires cooling. The oven in the photo is powered on; do not switch it on until all covers are reattached. I am a qualified electrical fitter-mechanic. +With the K type probe, I removed the rotisserie motor from the toaster oven and screwed the probe in one of the holes. You may have to find a nut to fit the probe and drill a hole in the wall of the toaster oven to make the K type probe be in the actual oven part where the heat is. couple of notes here. If you have a look at picture 1, you will see that I have circled in red the probe and 2 other objects. the other 2 objects are the heating elements and when the oven is plugged in that will have electricity running through them. You would want to put some fiber-glass insulation around them to prevent them from being short circuited by the wire of the K type probe. only place the fiber-glass insulation between the wall and all the wires of the toaster oven - do not cover the SSR with insulation as it needs to be kept relatively cool. In the photo, you can see that I have powered on the oven - please don't do that until the covers are back on. I am a qualified electrical fitter-mechanic. ![temerature probe1-18cd7ee65e5.jpg](./temerature_probe1-18cd7ee65e5.jpg) @@ -79,9 +62,8 @@ With the K-type probe, I removed the rotisserie motor from the toaster oven and ### Step 4: Adding insulation and finishing up -Insulate the wiring compartment of the toaster oven to prevent overheating of the SSR (Solid State Relay). Protect wires going from the compartment to the REX-C100 Digital PID Temperature Controller, as sharp metal edges can cause shorts. For housing the PID controller, fabricate a metal bracket or use a modified plastic container on the oven exterior. - -Plan your steps carefully. For further assistance, please reach out. +At the minimum you should add insulation between the wiring compartment and the toaster oven. With the SSR installed in the wiring compartment, heat is not what you want in there as the SSR will overheat. Also protect the wiring that is going from the wiring compartment to the REX-C100 Digital PID Temperature Controller. metal that is cut away is sharp and has the potential of cutting wires and shorting them out. To house the REX-C100 Digital PID Temperature Controller, if you have one, fold up a sheet of metal to mount on the outside of the toaster oven. You could also mount a plastic container of some sort and make a cutout to mount the controller. +All up plan your steps and if you have any questions just let me know and I will do my best to help. ![Insulation-18cd88a07d1.jpg](./Insulation-18cd88a07d1.jpg) @@ -90,47 +72,4 @@ Plan your steps carefully. For further assistance, please reach out. ![cable-18cd88a1c8b.jpg](./cable-18cd88a1c8b.jpg) ## Resources -### Required Hardware - -- [REX-C100 Digital PID Temperature Controller](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=REX-C100) -- Solid State Relay (SSR) ([example SSR](https://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_nkw=SSR+24-380VAC)) -- K-type thermocouple probe ([example](https://au.rs-online.com/web/c/temperature-sensors/thermocouples/)) -- Fiberglass insulation (~~[example](https://www.bradfordinsulation.com.au/products)~~) -- Fiber cement sheets (~~[example](https://www.bunnings.com.au/search/products?q=fiber%20cement)~~) - -### Required Tools - -- Insulated screwdrivers -- Wire strippers/cutters -- Electric drill (for probe hole) -- Spanner/wrench (for probe nut) -- Heat-resistant adhesive - -### Safety Equipment - -- Electrical safety gloves (~~[example](https://safeworkwear.com.au/electrical-gloves)~~) -- N95/P2 respiratory mask -- Protective long-sleeve clothing -- Safety goggles -- Fire extinguisher (for testing phase) - -### Additional Components - -- Mounting nuts/bolts for thermocouple -- Cable protection sleeving -- Metal/plastic housing bracket for PID -- Thermal insulation tape -- SSR cooling fan (optional) -## References -Here are the references organized by category: - -### Articles - -- [Reflow Toaster Oven - a Qwiic Hack! - SparkFun Electronics](https://news.sparkfun.com/3319) -- [Pid - Toaster Oven Conversion | BladeForums](https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/pid-toaster-oven-conversion.599423/) - -### Opensource Designs - -- Upgrade your Toaster Oven - [filtered] Academy -- [Surface Mount Reflow Oven Controller - OmberTech](http://www.ombertech.com/cnk/reflowcont/index.htm) -- [Controleo3 Reflow Oven Build Guide - Whizoo Electronics](https://whizoo.com/pages/buildguide) \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/upgrade-your-toaster-oven/config.json b/howtos/upgrade-your-toaster-oven/config.json index 344ae416a..e682eec9b 100644 --- a/howtos/upgrade-your-toaster-oven/config.json +++ b/howtos/upgrade-your-toaster-oven/config.json @@ -6,7 +6,7 @@ "steps": [ { "_animationKey": "uniquerroht8", - "text": "## Electrical Safety\n\n1. **Unplug the Device**: Ensure the toaster oven is disconnected from the power source before beginning any work.\n\n2. **Use Proper Tools**: Employ insulated screwdrivers and wear electrical safety gloves.\n\n3. **Check Connections**: Verify that all wires are securely connected and properly insulated.\n\n4. **Test the Modification**: Operate the modified oven in a controlled setting to confirm correct function and prevent overheating.\n\n5. **Seek Expertise**: Consult a qualified electrician if any electrical modification is unclear.\n\n## Safety Considerations\n\n- **Monitor Initial Use**: Observe the oven closely during its first use to identify any fire hazards.\n\n- **Handle Insulation Safely**: Wear protective gloves, long sleeves, and a mask when dealing with fiberglass insulation to prevent skin and respiratory issues.\n\n- **Follow Instructions**: Adhere to the manufacturer's guidelines for both the toaster oven and the REX controller.\n\n- **Do Not Leave Unattended**: Never operate the modified oven without supervision.\n\nPrioritize safety when working with electrical devices. If unsure about your skills or safety, obtain professional help.", + "text": "Electrical Safety:\nUnplug the toaster oven before starting any work.\nUse appropriate tools: Use insulated screwdrivers, wear electrical safety gloves.\nDouble-check wiring: Ensure connections are secure and properly insulated.\nBefore using the modified oven, test it in a safe environment to ensure it functions correctly and doesn't overheat.\nConsult a qualified electrician if you're unsure about any electrical aspects of the modification.\n\nConsiderations:\nMonitor first use: Stay vigilant during the initial use of the modified oven to detect any potential fire hazard.\nHandle fiberglass insulation carefully: Wear protective gloves, long sleeves, and a mask to avoid skin and respiratory irritation.\nRead and follow the manufacturer's instructions for both the toaster oven and the REX controller\nNever leave the modified oven unattended while in use.\nSafety is paramount when working with electrical appliances. If you have any doubts about your abilities or safety, seek professional assistance", "images": [ { "name": "_709fbe59-2578-4085-80d9-a90ccc679ca2-18d020fd1c7.jpeg", @@ -62,7 +62,7 @@ "alt": "wirring-18cd8062f74.jpg" } ], - "text": "### Instructions for Thermostat Access and Wiring\n\n1. Unplug the toaster oven.\n2. Remove the main cover screws and carefully lift off the cover.\n3. Identify the thermostat located behind the temperature dial.\n4. Detach the two brown wires from the thermostat; connect them to terminals 1 and 2 on the 24~380VAC side of the SSR.\n5. Ensure correct polarity when connecting the SSR's other terminals to the EX-C100 Digital PID Temperature Controller.", + "text": "Make sure you have the toaster oven unplugged from the power socket. \n\n1. Locate the screws that holds the main cover in place and remove them.\n2.Carefully and without force, remove the cover. as shown in picture one, identify the thermostat. It will be behind the front dial that is used to change the temperature of the toaster oven. Please note in picture 1 that I have already removed the 2 wires from the thermostat (brown wires with spade connectors). the wires on either side of the thermostat should be connected to the SSR on terminals 1 and 2 on the 24~380VAC side illustrated on the SSR. The terminals on the other side of the SSR go to the EX-C100 Digital PID Temperature Controller. Be aware that those 2 wires need to be connected with the correct polarity.", "_animationKey": "unique1", "title": "Removing the cover and identifying the thermostat." }, @@ -93,7 +93,7 @@ "alt": "controller-18cd809018c.jpg" } ], - "text": "With the K-type probe, I removed the rotisserie motor from the toaster oven and secured the probe in one of the existing holes. You may need a suitable nut for the probe and might have to drill a hole in the oven wall to position the probe in the heated area. Note: In Picture 1, the probe and two heating elements are circled. When the oven is on, electricity flows through the elements. Apply fiberglass insulation around them to avoid short circuits from the probe wire. Only place insulation between the wall and all wires of the toaster oven; the SSR should not be covered as it requires cooling. The oven in the photo is powered on; do not switch it on until all covers are reattached. I am a qualified electrical fitter-mechanic.", + "text": "With the K type probe, I removed the rotisserie motor from the toaster oven and screwed the probe in one of the holes. You may have to find a nut to fit the probe and drill a hole in the wall of the toaster oven to make the K type probe be in the actual oven part where the heat is. couple of notes here. If you have a look at picture 1, you will see that I have circled in red the probe and 2 other objects. the other 2 objects are the heating elements and when the oven is plugged in that will have electricity running through them. You would want to put some fiber-glass insulation around them to prevent them from being short circuited by the wire of the K type probe. only place the fiber-glass insulation between the wall and all the wires of the toaster oven - do not cover the SSR with insulation as it needs to be kept relatively cool. In the photo, you can see that I have powered on the oven - please don't do that until the covers are back on. I am a qualified electrical fitter-mechanic.", "title": "Install the temperature probe.", "_animationKey": "unique2" }, @@ -125,11 +125,11 @@ } ], "title": "Adding insulation and finishing up", - "text": "Insulate the wiring compartment of the toaster oven to prevent overheating of the SSR (Solid State Relay). Protect wires going from the compartment to the REX-C100 Digital PID Temperature Controller, as sharp metal edges can cause shorts. For housing the PID controller, fabricate a metal bracket or use a modified plastic container on the oven exterior.\n\nPlan your steps carefully. For further assistance, please reach out.", + "text": "At the minimum you should add insulation between the wiring compartment and the toaster oven. With the SSR installed in the wiring compartment, heat is not what you want in there as the SSR will overheat. Also protect the wiring that is going from the wiring compartment to the REX-C100 Digital PID Temperature Controller. metal that is cut away is sharp and has the potential of cutting wires and shorting them out. To house the REX-C100 Digital PID Temperature Controller, if you have one, fold up a sheet of metal to mount on the outside of the toaster oven. You could also mount a plastic container of some sort and make a cutout to mount the controller.\nAll up plan your steps and if you have any questions just let me know and I will do my best to help.", "_animationKey": "unique3" } ], - "description": "### Toaster Oven Modification Tutorial\n\nThis modification aims to enhance the heating efficiency and temperature accuracy of an entry-level toaster oven by replacing the original thermostat with a REX-C100 Digital PID Temperature Controller, available from various online retailers at a low cost. Additionally, install fiberglass insulation, which can withstand temperatures up to 1004°F (540°C), to improve heat retention. Be cautious when placing insulation to avoid obstructing the oven's mechanical functions. Fiber cement may also assist in insulating the oven.", + "description": "This mod to a entry level toaster oven will increase heating efficiency and temperature accuracy of the oven. It requires substituting the thermostat that the toaster oven comes with to a REX-C100 Digital PID Temperature Controller. This controller is obtained from Aliexpress and is relatively cheap. The second part of the mod is to install some fibre-glass insulation. This is rated to around 540c so should be able to easily handle the toaster oven's maximum temperature. You have to be selective where you put the insulation as it can impede the mechanical operation of the taster oven. You can also use fibre cement to help insulate your oven.", "total_views": 131, "_id": "sEHCqVHlBmMRG8TG0CGN", "mentions": [], @@ -302,9 +302,5 @@ "urls": [] } }, - "content": "### Toaster Oven Modification Tutorial\n\nThis modification aims to enhance the heating efficiency and temperature accuracy of an entry-level toaster oven by replacing the original thermostat with a REX-C100 Digital PID Temperature Controller, available from various online retailers at a low cost. Additionally, install fiberglass insulation, which can withstand temperatures up to 1004°F (540°C), to improve heat retention. Be cautious when placing insulation to avoid obstructing the oven's mechanical functions. Fiber cement may also assist in insulating the oven.\n\n\nUser Location: Michelago, Australia\n\n## Electrical Safety\n\n1. **Unplug the Device**: Ensure the toaster oven is disconnected from the power source before beginning any work.\n\n2. **Use Proper Tools**: Employ insulated screwdrivers and wear electrical safety gloves.\n\n3. **Check Connections**: Verify that all wires are securely connected and properly insulated.\n\n4. **Test the Modification**: Operate the modified oven in a controlled setting to confirm correct function and prevent overheating.\n\n5. **Seek Expertise**: Consult a qualified electrician if any electrical modification is unclear.\n\n## Safety Considerations\n\n- **Monitor Initial Use**: Observe the oven closely during its first use to identify any fire hazards.\n\n- **Handle Insulation Safely**: Wear protective gloves, long sleeves, and a mask when dealing with fiberglass insulation to prevent skin and respiratory issues.\n\n- **Follow Instructions**: Adhere to the manufacturer's guidelines for both the toaster oven and the REX controller.\n\n- **Do Not Leave Unattended**: Never operate the modified oven without supervision.\n\nPrioritize safety when working with electrical devices. If unsure about your skills or safety, obtain professional help.\n\n### Instructions for Thermostat Access and Wiring\n\n1. Unplug the toaster oven.\n2. Remove the main cover screws and carefully lift off the cover.\n3. Identify the thermostat located behind the temperature dial.\n4. Detach the two brown wires from the thermostat; connect them to terminals 1 and 2 on the 24~380VAC side of the SSR.\n5. Ensure correct polarity when connecting the SSR's other terminals to the EX-C100 Digital PID Temperature Controller.\n\nWith the K-type probe, I removed the rotisserie motor from the toaster oven and secured the probe in one of the existing holes. You may need a suitable nut for the probe and might have to drill a hole in the oven wall to position the probe in the heated area. Note: In Picture 1, the probe and two heating elements are circled. When the oven is on, electricity flows through the elements. Apply fiberglass insulation around them to avoid short circuits from the probe wire. Only place insulation between the wall and all wires of the toaster oven; the SSR should not be covered as it requires cooling. The oven in the photo is powered on; do not switch it on until all covers are reattached. I am a qualified electrical fitter-mechanic.\n\nInsulate the wiring compartment of the toaster oven to prevent overheating of the SSR (Solid State Relay). Protect wires going from the compartment to the REX-C100 Digital PID Temperature Controller, as sharp metal edges can cause shorts. For housing the PID controller, fabricate a metal bracket or use a modified plastic container on the oven exterior.\n\nPlan your steps carefully. For further assistance, please reach out.", - "keywords": "Toaster oven modification, heating efficiency, digital PID temperature controller, REX-C100, fiberglass insulation, electrical safety, thermostat replacement, SSR connections, wiring insulation, oven temperature accuracy", - "resources": "### Required Hardware\n\n- [REX-C100 Digital PID Temperature Controller](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=REX-C100)\n- Solid State Relay (SSR) ([example SSR](https://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_nkw=SSR+24-380VAC))\n- K-type thermocouple probe ([example](https://au.rs-online.com/web/c/temperature-sensors/thermocouples/))\n- Fiberglass insulation (~~[example](https://www.bradfordinsulation.com.au/products)~~)\n- Fiber cement sheets (~~[example](https://www.bunnings.com.au/search/products?q=fiber%20cement)~~)\n\n### Required Tools\n\n- Insulated screwdrivers\n- Wire strippers/cutters\n- Electric drill (for probe hole)\n- Spanner/wrench (for probe nut)\n- Heat-resistant adhesive\n\n### Safety Equipment\n\n- Electrical safety gloves (~~[example](https://safeworkwear.com.au/electrical-gloves)~~)\n- N95/P2 respiratory mask\n- Protective long-sleeve clothing\n- Safety goggles\n- Fire extinguisher (for testing phase)\n\n### Additional Components\n\n- Mounting nuts/bolts for thermocouple\n- Cable protection sleeving\n- Metal/plastic housing bracket for PID\n- Thermal insulation tape\n- SSR cooling fan (optional)", - "references": "Here are the references organized by category:\n\n### Articles\n\n- [Reflow Toaster Oven - a Qwiic Hack! - SparkFun Electronics](https://news.sparkfun.com/3319)\n- [Pid - Toaster Oven Conversion | BladeForums](https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/pid-toaster-oven-conversion.599423/)\n\n### Opensource Designs\n\n- Upgrade your Toaster Oven - [filtered] Academy\n- [Surface Mount Reflow Oven Controller - OmberTech](http://www.ombertech.com/cnk/reflowcont/index.htm)\n- [Controleo3 Reflow Oven Build Guide - Whizoo Electronics](https://whizoo.com/pages/buildguide)", - "brief": "Enhance your toaster oven's efficiency with a REX-C100 PID Controller and fiberglass insulation. Follow safety guidelines for optimal heat retention and performance." + "content": "This mod to a entry level toaster oven will increase heating efficiency and temperature accuracy of the oven. It requires substituting the thermostat that the toaster oven comes with to a REX-C100 Digital PID Temperature Controller. This controller is obtained from Aliexpress and is relatively cheap. The second part of the mod is to install some fibre-glass insulation. This is rated to around 540c so should be able to easily handle the toaster oven's maximum temperature. You have to be selective where you put the insulation as it can impede the mechanical operation of the taster oven. You can also use fibre cement to help insulate your oven.\n\n\nUser Location: Michelago, Australia\n\nElectrical Safety:\nUnplug the toaster oven before starting any work.\nUse appropriate tools: Use insulated screwdrivers, wear electrical safety gloves.\nDouble-check wiring: Ensure connections are secure and properly insulated.\nBefore using the modified oven, test it in a safe environment to ensure it functions correctly and doesn't overheat.\nConsult a qualified electrician if you're unsure about any electrical aspects of the modification.\n\nConsiderations:\nMonitor first use: Stay vigilant during the initial use of the modified oven to detect any potential fire hazard.\nHandle fiberglass insulation carefully: Wear protective gloves, long sleeves, and a mask to avoid skin and respiratory irritation.\nRead and follow the manufacturer's instructions for both the toaster oven and the REX controller\nNever leave the modified oven unattended while in use.\nSafety is paramount when working with electrical appliances. If you have any doubts about your abilities or safety, seek professional assistance\n\nMake sure you have the toaster oven unplugged from the power socket. \n\n1. Locate the screws that holds the main cover in place and remove them.\n2.Carefully and without force, remove the cover. as shown in picture one, identify the thermostat. It will be behind the front dial that is used to change the temperature of the toaster oven. Please note in picture 1 that I have already removed the 2 wires from the thermostat (brown wires with spade connectors). the wires on either side of the thermostat should be connected to the SSR on terminals 1 and 2 on the 24~380VAC side illustrated on the SSR. The terminals on the other side of the SSR go to the EX-C100 Digital PID Temperature Controller. Be aware that those 2 wires need to be connected with the correct polarity.\n\nWith the K type probe, I removed the rotisserie motor from the toaster oven and screwed the probe in one of the holes. You may have to find a nut to fit the probe and drill a hole in the wall of the toaster oven to make the K type probe be in the actual oven part where the heat is. couple of notes here. If you have a look at picture 1, you will see that I have circled in red the probe and 2 other objects. the other 2 objects are the heating elements and when the oven is plugged in that will have electricity running through them. You would want to put some fiber-glass insulation around them to prevent them from being short circuited by the wire of the K type probe. only place the fiber-glass insulation between the wall and all the wires of the toaster oven - do not cover the SSR with insulation as it needs to be kept relatively cool. In the photo, you can see that I have powered on the oven - please don't do that until the covers are back on. I am a qualified electrical fitter-mechanic.\n\nAt the minimum you should add insulation between the wiring compartment and the toaster oven. With the SSR installed in the wiring compartment, heat is not what you want in there as the SSR will overheat. Also protect the wiring that is going from the wiring compartment to the REX-C100 Digital PID Temperature Controller. metal that is cut away is sharp and has the potential of cutting wires and shorting them out. To house the REX-C100 Digital PID Temperature Controller, if you have one, fold up a sheet of metal to mount on the outside of the toaster oven. You could also mount a plastic container of some sort and make a cutout to mount the controller.\nAll up plan your steps and if you have any questions just let me know and I will do my best to help." } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/waist-bag-from-plastic-bags/README.md b/howtos/waist-bag-from-plastic-bags/README.md index 501bff343..6e46b215a 100644 --- a/howtos/waist-bag-from-plastic-bags/README.md +++ b/howtos/waist-bag-from-plastic-bags/README.md @@ -1,51 +1,49 @@ --- title: Waist bag from Plastic Bags slug: waist-bag-from-plastic-bags -description: ### How to Create a Custom Waist Bag - -This guide provides a step-by-step process for making a fashionable waist bag by fusing plastic bags and incorporating some sewing techniques. +description: Here you will find step by step overview of the process of making a custom fashionable fanny pack / waist bag by fusing plastic bags and a bit of sewing. tags: ["LDPE","other machine","HDPE","product"] category: Products difficulty: Medium time: < 1 week -keywords: custom waist bag, waist bag tutorial, plastic bag fusing, DIY waist bag, sewing techniques, eco-friendly fashion, Tallinn Estonia craft, plastic upcycling, DIY fashion project, sewing waist bag +keywords: location: Tallinn, Estonia --- # Waist bag from Plastic Bags ![Waist bag from Plastic Bags](2019-11-28_12.00_bag_4-1_1.jpg) -### How to Create a Custom Waist Bag - -This guide provides a step-by-step process for making a fashionable waist bag by fusing plastic bags and incorporating some sewing techniques. +Here you will find step by step overview of the process of making a custom fashionable fanny pack / waist bag by fusing plastic bags and a bit of sewing. User Location: Tallinn, Estonia ## Steps ### Step 1: Preparation: Gather Materials and Tools Materials: -- Plastic shopping bags -- Strap - 60 inches (1.5m) -- Zipper - 16 inches (0.4m) -- Snap-fit buckle -- Baking paper -- Tape +Plastic shopping bags +Strap - 1.5m +Zipper - 0.4m +Snap-fit buckle +Baking paper +Tape Tools: -- Iron -- Ironing board -- Sewing machine -- Sewing pins -- Scissors -- Marker -- Lighter +Iron +Ironing board +Sewing machine +Sewing pins +Scissors +Marker +Lighter ![2019-11-28 12.00 bag 0.jpg](./2019-11-28_12.00_bag_0.jpg) ### Step 2: Material Selection -Begin by selecting plastic bags of the same type, as mixing different materials can be counterproductive. Look for the plastic type symbol, a number within a triangular recycle symbol, usually found at the bottom of bags. Although bags may appear similar, they may differ in type, necessitating careful sorting. +The process starts with plastic bag selection. Plastic comes in different types and shapes and it is important to work with similar material. As various types have their own physical properties, mixing material types in one project could be ineffective and lead to a non-recyclable waste. -This project requires LDPE (Low-Density Polyethylene), identified by the number 4. We will use red and yellow bags for this purpose, as illustrated in the photos. +At the bottom of the bags there is usually a plastic type symbol (a number in triangle of arrows). While they look and feel the same, the type could be different so we need to sort them. + +In this project we will used LDPE (Light Density Poly Ethylene) - number 4 in the material type symbol. Hence, we will use a red and a yellow bags, shown in the photos. ![2019-11-28 12.00 bag 1 (1).jpg](./2019-11-28_12.00_bag_1_1.jpg) @@ -58,15 +56,13 @@ This project requires LDPE (Low-Density Polyethylene), identified by the number ### Step 3: Material Preparation -### Plastic Bag Fusing Tutorial +In order to get material ready, we need to fuse layers of plastic bags together using a home iron. This could easily be done at home with no risk of messing up the iron or anything around. -To prepare the material, fuse plastic bag layers using a household iron. This process can be conducted safely at home. +The setup requires baking paper to be placed on an ironing board, two layers of bags placed over it and another layer of baking paper to be placed on top. Plastic bags should not stick out, otherwise there is a risk of melting them onto the board or the iron. -1. **Setup**: Place baking paper on an ironing board. Lay two layers of plastic bags on top, followed by another layer of baking paper. Ensure plastic does not extend beyond the paper to prevent melting onto the board or iron. +The layers of bags are then ironed at the temperature somewhere between COTTON and LINEN settings. The iron has to be always moving and not stopping on any spot for too long as it might overheat the plastic. Plastic is to be ironed until it is completely fused. The more pressure you put into ironing, the more flat will the surface of the material be. This process to be repeated until you have 3-4 layers of plastic bags to allow for material durability. -2. **Ironing**: Set the iron temperature between COTTON and LINEN. Continuously move the iron to avoid overheating. Iron until the plastic is fully fused. Apply pressure for a flatter surface. Repeat until achieving 3-4 layers for durability. - -3. **Safety**: If executed correctly, no odor or fumes will be emitted. However, ensure the room is well-ventilated. +Given that the instructions are followed properly, no smell or fumes will be released, but for safety measures it is advised to work in a well ventilated room. ![2019-11-28 12.00 bag 2-0 (1).jpg](./2019-11-28_12.00_bag_2-0_1.jpg) @@ -79,19 +75,13 @@ To prepare the material, fuse plastic bag layers using a household iron. This pr ### Step 4: Parts Preparation -### How to Create Plastic Parts +Now that all the plastic material is ready, we can make the parts. For this we use the parts outline PDF file above. The file needs to be printed (or hand drawn if you're into that). All dimensions in millimeters [mm]. -With the plastic material ready, proceed as follows to create the parts: +Process flow: paper template part outline is cut out, traced onto the plastic. Part is then cut out. -1. **Prepare Template**: Use the outlined PDF or draw by hand. Ensure all dimensions are in millimeters (mm) or inches (in) as required. - -2. **Template Application**: Cut out the paper template and trace it onto the plastic. +NB! One of the following steps (Step 6) could be skipped if the Top and Back parts are not cut separately, but rather combined into one part with markings. -3. **Cutting Parts**: Cut the traced outline from the plastic. - -**Note**: Step 6 can be skipped if the Top and Back parts are combined with markings instead of being cut separately. - -**Attached Photos**: In order - Front Part, Top Part, Back Part. +The photos attached (in order) Front Part, Top Part, Back. ![2019-11-28 12.00 bag 2-1 (4).jpg](./2019-11-28_12.00_bag_2-1_4.jpg) @@ -104,7 +94,7 @@ With the plastic material ready, proceed as follows to create the parts: ### Step 5: Sewing the Top Part to Zipper -Identify the midpoint of the bag's top curve and align it with the zipper's center. Place the zipper face-to-face with the bag's exterior side and sew them together using your preferred stitch. +Mark the middle of the curve of the top part of the bag and arrange the middle of the zipper to align with the mark. To sew the parts, put the face of the zipper side with the side that you would want to keep as the outside of the bag together and sew them together with your favourite type of stitch. ![2019-11-28 12.00 bag 3-1 (1).jpg](./2019-11-28_12.00_bag_3-1_1.jpg) @@ -117,7 +107,7 @@ Identify the midpoint of the bag's top curve and align it with the zipper's cent ### Step 6: Attach the Back Part -To connect the Top and Back parts, use a straight stitch. While unnecessary if pre-combined, sewing enhances the bag's shape and durability. +With a simple straight stitch, connect the Top and the Back parts together. This step could be avoided if both parts came combined at the preparation stage. Sewing the parts together does help set the shape of the bag and will keep it more sturdy. ![2019-11-28 12.00 bag 3-2 (1).jpg](./2019-11-28_12.00_bag_3-2_1.jpg) @@ -130,7 +120,7 @@ To connect the Top and Back parts, use a straight stitch. While unnecessary if p ### Step 7: Front Part + Zipper -Align the center of the zipper with the marked middle of the designated front side. If the zipper is detachable, separate it to simplify sewing, then secure the parts together. +After choosing the face side of the front part, marking the middle and aligning the center of the zipper with the mark, sew the parts together. It would be helpful if the zipper can be taken apart and easily put back together as it will ease the sewing process. ![2019-11-28 12.00 bag 3-3 (1).jpg](./2019-11-28_12.00_bag_3-3_1.jpg) @@ -143,7 +133,11 @@ Align the center of the zipper with the marked middle of the designated front si ### Step 8: Attaching the Strap -Next, prepare the straps by cutting them into two equal pieces. To prevent them from fraying, carefully heat the ends with a lighter, without applying direct flame. Once prepared, sew the straps to the inside of the back part of the bag. Using more stitches will enhance the bag's strength. +Next we need to prepare the straps. + +The strap is cut into two equal pieces. Before we sew them on, it is necessary to make sure they do not come loose. To do that use the lighter, accurately heat up the ends of the strap. Do not put fire directly on the strap but rather have it close by. + +When the straps preparation is done, sew them to the inside of the Back part of the bag. The more threads you put at this point the stronger the bag will be. ![2019-11-28 12.00 bag 3-4.jpg](./2019-11-28_12.00_bag_3-4.jpg) @@ -156,20 +150,18 @@ Next, prepare the straps by cutting them into two equal pieces. To prevent them ### Step 9: Sew the Bag Together -### Closing the Bag +The hardest step so far. As all the necessary parts are all sewn together, we need to close the bag. This is done while the bag is turned inside out. Mark the middles of the Front part and the Back part. Align the parts together. The zipper has to be open to allow to turn the bag outside in. Make sure the straps end up on the right side of the bag (inside the bag during this step and outside after it is sewn). -This is the most challenging step. With all parts sewn together, it's time to close the bag. Turn the bag inside out, and mark the centers of the front and back parts. Align these parts, ensuring the zipper is open to facilitate turning the bag right-side out. During this, keep the straps inside the bag; they should end up on the outside once sewn. - -After sewing, turn the bag right-side out. Ensure all corners are fully formed, as this defines the bag's shape. If correct, the straps will be on the outside, and the bag should resemble the reference image. +After sewing, turn the bag inside out / outside in. Make sure that all the corners are fully twisted out because it sets the overall shape of the bag. If everything is correct, the straps are outside and the bag looks like something on the photo. ![2019-11-28 12.00 bag 3-6.jpg](./2019-11-28_12.00_bag_3-6.jpg) ### Step 10: Finish the Straps -### Instructions for Bag Making +Using the sewing pins roll the strap to make the ends. Make sure to put the snap-fit buckle on the strap first! -Use sewing pins to roll the strap ends, ensuring the snap-fit buckle is first placed on the strap. Sew the ends securely; your bag is now complete. +To the best of your abilities sew the end. At this point the bag is ready, yay! ![2019-11-28 12.00 bag 3-7 (1).jpg](./2019-11-28_12.00_bag_3-7_1.jpg) @@ -182,13 +174,11 @@ Use sewing pins to roll the strap ends, ensuring the snap-fit buckle is first pl ### Step 11: Final Notes -### Instructions for Using the Bag +The bag is now ready to use. Adjust the straps and wear this fashionable bag with pride cause you made it yourself! The bag should be ok with a few raindrops but I would not advise carrying it in the rain or similar situations. Be ready also for all the questions about how you made it. -Your bag is now ready for use. Adjust the straps as needed. While it can withstand light rain, avoid prolonged exposure to wet conditions. Be prepared for inquiries about its creation. +Also to note, the cool thing about the plastic bag leftovers is that these could be used again in the next plastic bag project. -Leftover materials from crafting this bag can be saved for future projects. - -Thank you for following this tutorial; looking forward to seeing your versions. +Thank you for following this tutorial, hope to see your versions of the bags. ![2019-11-28 12.00 bag 4-1 (2).jpg](./2019-11-28_12.00_bag_4-1_2.jpg) @@ -200,59 +190,4 @@ Thank you for following this tutorial; looking forward to seeing your versions. ![2019-11-28 12.00 bag 4-2.jpg](./2019-11-28_12.00_bag_4-2.jpg) ## Resources -### Tools - -- Scissors -- Sewing pins -- Marker -- Lighter - -### Hardware - -- Iron -- Ironing board -- Sewing machine - -### Software - -- None required - -#### Materials Used (for reference) - -- Plastic shopping bags (LDPE #4) -- 16" zipper -- Snap-fit buckle -- 60" strap -- Baking paper - -Each section highlights essential items without exceeding 5 entries per category. Tools focus on handheld implements, while hardware covers larger equipment. The tutorial requires no specialized software. -## References -### References - -#### Articles - -- [Make Your Own Fanny Pack with This Free Pattern](https://blog.spoonflower.com/2019/09/17/diy-fanny-pack-free-pattern/) -- [5 DIY Recycled Plastic Bag Projects](https://www.budgetdumpster.com/blog/5-recycled-plastic-bag-projects) -- [Fanny Pack From Plastic Bags](https://www.instructables.com/Fanny-Pack-From-Plastic-Bags/) -- [Fused Plastic Patchwork Belt Tutorial](https://www.lilblueboo.com/2009/11/fused-plastic-patchwork-belt-tutorial.html) -- [Up-cycled Plastic Bag Weaving DIY](https://maptote.com/blogs/blog/up-cycled-plastic-bag-weaving-diy) -- [DIY Reusable Plastic Bags](https://www.hallmarkchannel.com/home-and-family/how-to/diy-reusable-plastic-bags) -- [Up-fuse Upcycling Fanny Pack](https://gundara.com/SHOP/vegan-bags/funky-upcycling-fanny-pack-organic-cotton-egypt) - -#### Academic Papers - -- [Non-Biodegradable Plastic Bag Waste into Upcycled Non-Woven Textiles](https://www.iastatedigitalpress.com/itaa/article/id/18611/) - -#### Open Source Designs - -- [Free Core Belt Pattern](https://corefabricstore.com/blogs/tips-and-resources/free-belt-bag-pattern) -- [Fanny Pack From Plastic Bags (Instructables)](https://www.instructables.com/Fanny-Pack-From-Plastic-Bags/) - -#### YouTube - -- [Referencing in R Markdown](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CFduzFJ7Xec) - -#### Product Listings - -- [Upcycled Weave Handmade Fanny Pack](https://itokri.com/products/2021-620-1-159-upcycled-weave-handmade-fanny-pack-bag) -- [Up-fuse Upcycling Fanny Pack](https://gundara.com/SHOP/vegan-bags/funky-upcycling-fanny-pack-organic-cotton-egypt) \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/waist-bag-from-plastic-bags/config.json b/howtos/waist-bag-from-plastic-bags/config.json index 4a7cd5645..cdf8fcc81 100644 --- a/howtos/waist-bag-from-plastic-bags/config.json +++ b/howtos/waist-bag-from-plastic-bags/config.json @@ -21,7 +21,7 @@ "src": "C:\\Users\\zx\\Desktop\\osr\\osr-machines\\howtos\\waist-bag-from-plastic-bags\\2019-11-28_12.00_bag_4-1_1.jpg" }, "title": "Waist bag from Plastic Bags", - "description": "### How to Create a Custom Waist Bag\n\nThis guide provides a step-by-step process for making a fashionable waist bag by fusing plastic bags and incorporating some sewing techniques.", + "description": "Here you will find step by step overview of the process of making a custom fashionable fanny pack / waist bag by fusing plastic bags and a bit of sewing.", "category": { "_id": "WZbV3iGK3TwV6n62WbJC", "_created": "2022-09-18T08:52:31.406Z", @@ -61,7 +61,7 @@ "mentions": [], "steps": [ { - "text": "Materials:\n- Plastic shopping bags\n- Strap - 60 inches (1.5m)\n- Zipper - 16 inches (0.4m)\n- Snap-fit buckle\n- Baking paper\n- Tape\n\nTools:\n- Iron\n- Ironing board\n- Sewing machine\n- Sewing pins\n- Scissors\n- Marker\n- Lighter", + "text": "Materials:\nPlastic shopping bags\nStrap - 1.5m\nZipper - 0.4m\nSnap-fit buckle\nBaking paper\nTape\n\nTools:\nIron\nIroning board\nSewing machine\nSewing pins\nScissors\nMarker\nLighter", "_animationKey": "unique1", "images": [ { @@ -82,7 +82,7 @@ }, { "title": "Material Selection", - "text": "Begin by selecting plastic bags of the same type, as mixing different materials can be counterproductive. Look for the plastic type symbol, a number within a triangular recycle symbol, usually found at the bottom of bags. Although bags may appear similar, they may differ in type, necessitating careful sorting.\n\nThis project requires LDPE (Low-Density Polyethylene), identified by the number 4. We will use red and yellow bags for this purpose, as illustrated in the photos.", + "text": "The process starts with plastic bag selection. Plastic comes in different types and shapes and it is important to work with similar material. As various types have their own physical properties, mixing material types in one project could be ineffective and lead to a non-recyclable waste.\n\nAt the bottom of the bags there is usually a plastic type symbol (a number in triangle of arrows). While they look and feel the same, the type could be different so we need to sort them.\n\nIn this project we will used LDPE (Light Density Poly Ethylene) - number 4 in the material type symbol. Hence, we will use a red and a yellow bags, shown in the photos.", "_animationKey": "unique2", "caption": "material sorting and selection", "images": [ @@ -125,7 +125,7 @@ ] }, { - "text": "### Plastic Bag Fusing Tutorial\n\nTo prepare the material, fuse plastic bag layers using a household iron. This process can be conducted safely at home.\n\n1. **Setup**: Place baking paper on an ironing board. Lay two layers of plastic bags on top, followed by another layer of baking paper. Ensure plastic does not extend beyond the paper to prevent melting onto the board or iron.\n\n2. **Ironing**: Set the iron temperature between COTTON and LINEN. Continuously move the iron to avoid overheating. Iron until the plastic is fully fused. Apply pressure for a flatter surface. Repeat until achieving 3-4 layers for durability.\n\n3. **Safety**: If executed correctly, no odor or fumes will be emitted. However, ensure the room is well-ventilated.", + "text": "In order to get material ready, we need to fuse layers of plastic bags together using a home iron. This could easily be done at home with no risk of messing up the iron or anything around.\n\nThe setup requires baking paper to be placed on an ironing board, two layers of bags placed over it and another layer of baking paper to be placed on top. Plastic bags should not stick out, otherwise there is a risk of melting them onto the board or the iron.\n\nThe layers of bags are then ironed at the temperature somewhere between COTTON and LINEN settings. The iron has to be always moving and not stopping on any spot for too long as it might overheat the plastic. Plastic is to be ironed until it is completely fused. The more pressure you put into ironing, the more flat will the surface of the material be. This process to be repeated until you have 3-4 layers of plastic bags to allow for material durability.\n\nGiven that the instructions are followed properly, no smell or fumes will be released, but for safety measures it is advised to work in a well ventilated room.", "title": "Material Preparation", "images": [ { @@ -208,7 +208,7 @@ "alt": "2019-11-28 12.00 bag 2-3 (5).jpg" } ], - "text": "### How to Create Plastic Parts\n\nWith the plastic material ready, proceed as follows to create the parts:\n\n1. **Prepare Template**: Use the outlined PDF or draw by hand. Ensure all dimensions are in millimeters (mm) or inches (in) as required.\n \n2. **Template Application**: Cut out the paper template and trace it onto the plastic.\n\n3. **Cutting Parts**: Cut the traced outline from the plastic.\n\n**Note**: Step 6 can be skipped if the Top and Back parts are combined with markings instead of being cut separately.\n\n**Attached Photos**: In order - Front Part, Top Part, Back Part.", + "text": "Now that all the plastic material is ready, we can make the parts. For this we use the parts outline PDF file above. The file needs to be printed (or hand drawn if you're into that). All dimensions in millimeters [mm].\n\nProcess flow: paper template part outline is cut out, traced onto the plastic. Part is then cut out.\n\nNB! One of the following steps (Step 6) could be skipped if the Top and Back parts are not cut separately, but rather combined into one part with markings.\n\nThe photos attached (in order) Front Part, Top Part, Back.", "_animationKey": "uniqueil44jo", "caption": "Parts preparation" }, @@ -253,7 +253,7 @@ "alt": "2019-11-28 12.00 bag 3-1 (6).jpg" } ], - "text": "Identify the midpoint of the bag's top curve and align it with the zipper's center. Place the zipper face-to-face with the bag's exterior side and sew them together using your preferred stitch.", + "text": "Mark the middle of the curve of the top part of the bag and arrange the middle of the zipper to align with the mark. To sew the parts, put the face of the zipper side with the side that you would want to keep as the outside of the bag together and sew them together with your favourite type of stitch.", "_animationKey": "uniqueotgaws" }, { @@ -298,10 +298,10 @@ "alt": "2019-11-28 12.00 bag 3-2 (4).jpg" } ], - "text": "To connect the Top and Back parts, use a straight stitch. While unnecessary if pre-combined, sewing enhances the bag's shape and durability." + "text": "With a simple straight stitch, connect the Top and the Back parts together. This step could be avoided if both parts came combined at the preparation stage. Sewing the parts together does help set the shape of the bag and will keep it more sturdy." }, { - "text": "Align the center of the zipper with the marked middle of the designated front side. If the zipper is detachable, separate it to simplify sewing, then secure the parts together.", + "text": "After choosing the face side of the front part, marking the middle and aligning the center of the zipper with the mark, sew the parts together. It would be helpful if the zipper can be taken apart and easily put back together as it will ease the sewing process.", "caption": "Sew the zipper", "_animationKey": "uniquez9ppjv", "title": "Front Part + Zipper", @@ -345,7 +345,7 @@ ] }, { - "text": "Next, prepare the straps by cutting them into two equal pieces. To prevent them from fraying, carefully heat the ends with a lighter, without applying direct flame. Once prepared, sew the straps to the inside of the back part of the bag. Using more stitches will enhance the bag's strength.", + "text": "Next we need to prepare the straps.\n\nThe strap is cut into two equal pieces. Before we sew them on, it is necessary to make sure they do not come loose. To do that use the lighter, accurately heat up the ends of the strap. Do not put fire directly on the strap but rather have it close by.\n\nWhen the straps preparation is done, sew them to the inside of the Back part of the bag. The more threads you put at this point the stronger the bag will be.", "_animationKey": "uniquetyrcyd", "title": "Attaching the Strap", "caption": "Preparing straps", @@ -390,7 +390,7 @@ }, { "_animationKey": "uniquec14dq", - "text": "### Closing the Bag\n\nThis is the most challenging step. With all parts sewn together, it's time to close the bag. Turn the bag inside out, and mark the centers of the front and back parts. Align these parts, ensuring the zipper is open to facilitate turning the bag right-side out. During this, keep the straps inside the bag; they should end up on the outside once sewn.\n\nAfter sewing, turn the bag right-side out. Ensure all corners are fully formed, as this defines the bag's shape. If correct, the straps will be on the outside, and the bag should resemble the reference image.", + "text": "The hardest step so far. As all the necessary parts are all sewn together, we need to close the bag. This is done while the bag is turned inside out. Mark the middles of the Front part and the Back part. Align the parts together. The zipper has to be open to allow to turn the bag outside in. Make sure the straps end up on the right side of the bag (inside the bag during this step and outside after it is sewn).\n\nAfter sewing, turn the bag inside out / outside in. Make sure that all the corners are fully twisted out because it sets the overall shape of the bag. If everything is correct, the straps are outside and the bag looks like something on the photo.", "images": [ { "updated": "2020-01-03T08:29:16.499Z", @@ -450,7 +450,7 @@ } ], "title": "Finish the Straps", - "text": "### Instructions for Bag Making\n\nUse sewing pins to roll the strap ends, ensuring the snap-fit buckle is first placed on the strap. Sew the ends securely; your bag is now complete." + "text": "Using the sewing pins roll the strap to make the ends. Make sure to put the snap-fit buckle on the strap first!\n\nTo the best of your abilities sew the end. At this point the bag is ready, yay!" }, { "images": [ @@ -494,7 +494,7 @@ "caption": "Enjoy", "title": "Final Notes", "_animationKey": "uniquenv1bpl", - "text": "### Instructions for Using the Bag\n\nYour bag is now ready for use. Adjust the straps as needed. While it can withstand light rain, avoid prolonged exposure to wet conditions. Be prepared for inquiries about its creation.\n\nLeftover materials from crafting this bag can be saved for future projects.\n\nThank you for following this tutorial; looking forward to seeing your versions." + "text": "The bag is now ready to use. Adjust the straps and wear this fashionable bag with pride cause you made it yourself! The bag should be ok with a few raindrops but I would not advise carrying it in the rain or similar situations. Be ready also for all the questions about how you made it.\n\nAlso to note, the cool thing about the plastic bag leftovers is that these could be used again in the next plastic bag project.\n\nThank you for following this tutorial, hope to see your versions of the bags." } ], "user": { @@ -645,9 +645,5 @@ "urls": [] } }, - "content": "### How to Create a Custom Waist Bag\n\nThis guide provides a step-by-step process for making a fashionable waist bag by fusing plastic bags and incorporating some sewing techniques.\n\n\nUser Location: Tallinn, Estonia\n\nMaterials:\n- Plastic shopping bags\n- Strap - 60 inches (1.5m)\n- Zipper - 16 inches (0.4m)\n- Snap-fit buckle\n- Baking paper\n- Tape\n\nTools:\n- Iron\n- Ironing board\n- Sewing machine\n- Sewing pins\n- Scissors\n- Marker\n- Lighter\n\nBegin by selecting plastic bags of the same type, as mixing different materials can be counterproductive. Look for the plastic type symbol, a number within a triangular recycle symbol, usually found at the bottom of bags. Although bags may appear similar, they may differ in type, necessitating careful sorting.\n\nThis project requires LDPE (Low-Density Polyethylene), identified by the number 4. We will use red and yellow bags for this purpose, as illustrated in the photos.\n\n### Plastic Bag Fusing Tutorial\n\nTo prepare the material, fuse plastic bag layers using a household iron. This process can be conducted safely at home.\n\n1. **Setup**: Place baking paper on an ironing board. Lay two layers of plastic bags on top, followed by another layer of baking paper. Ensure plastic does not extend beyond the paper to prevent melting onto the board or iron.\n\n2. **Ironing**: Set the iron temperature between COTTON and LINEN. Continuously move the iron to avoid overheating. Iron until the plastic is fully fused. Apply pressure for a flatter surface. Repeat until achieving 3-4 layers for durability.\n\n3. **Safety**: If executed correctly, no odor or fumes will be emitted. However, ensure the room is well-ventilated.\n\n### How to Create Plastic Parts\n\nWith the plastic material ready, proceed as follows to create the parts:\n\n1. **Prepare Template**: Use the outlined PDF or draw by hand. Ensure all dimensions are in millimeters (mm) or inches (in) as required.\n \n2. **Template Application**: Cut out the paper template and trace it onto the plastic.\n\n3. **Cutting Parts**: Cut the traced outline from the plastic.\n\n**Note**: Step 6 can be skipped if the Top and Back parts are combined with markings instead of being cut separately.\n\n**Attached Photos**: In order - Front Part, Top Part, Back Part.\n\nIdentify the midpoint of the bag's top curve and align it with the zipper's center. Place the zipper face-to-face with the bag's exterior side and sew them together using your preferred stitch.\n\nTo connect the Top and Back parts, use a straight stitch. While unnecessary if pre-combined, sewing enhances the bag's shape and durability.\n\nAlign the center of the zipper with the marked middle of the designated front side. If the zipper is detachable, separate it to simplify sewing, then secure the parts together.\n\nNext, prepare the straps by cutting them into two equal pieces. To prevent them from fraying, carefully heat the ends with a lighter, without applying direct flame. Once prepared, sew the straps to the inside of the back part of the bag. Using more stitches will enhance the bag's strength.\n\n### Closing the Bag\n\nThis is the most challenging step. With all parts sewn together, it's time to close the bag. Turn the bag inside out, and mark the centers of the front and back parts. Align these parts, ensuring the zipper is open to facilitate turning the bag right-side out. During this, keep the straps inside the bag; they should end up on the outside once sewn.\n\nAfter sewing, turn the bag right-side out. Ensure all corners are fully formed, as this defines the bag's shape. If correct, the straps will be on the outside, and the bag should resemble the reference image.\n\n### Instructions for Bag Making\n\nUse sewing pins to roll the strap ends, ensuring the snap-fit buckle is first placed on the strap. Sew the ends securely; your bag is now complete.\n\n### Instructions for Using the Bag\n\nYour bag is now ready for use. Adjust the straps as needed. While it can withstand light rain, avoid prolonged exposure to wet conditions. Be prepared for inquiries about its creation.\n\nLeftover materials from crafting this bag can be saved for future projects.\n\nThank you for following this tutorial; looking forward to seeing your versions.", - "keywords": "custom waist bag, waist bag tutorial, plastic bag fusing, DIY waist bag, sewing techniques, eco-friendly fashion, Tallinn Estonia craft, plastic upcycling, DIY fashion project, sewing waist bag", - "resources": "### Tools\n\n- Scissors\n- Sewing pins\n- Marker\n- Lighter\n\n### Hardware\n\n- Iron\n- Ironing board\n- Sewing machine\n\n### Software\n\n- None required\n\n#### Materials Used (for reference)\n\n- Plastic shopping bags (LDPE #4)\n- 16\" zipper\n- Snap-fit buckle\n- 60\" strap\n- Baking paper\n\nEach section highlights essential items without exceeding 5 entries per category. Tools focus on handheld implements, while hardware covers larger equipment. The tutorial requires no specialized software.", - "references": "### References\n\n#### Articles\n\n- [Make Your Own Fanny Pack with This Free Pattern](https://blog.spoonflower.com/2019/09/17/diy-fanny-pack-free-pattern/)\n- [5 DIY Recycled Plastic Bag Projects](https://www.budgetdumpster.com/blog/5-recycled-plastic-bag-projects)\n- [Fanny Pack From Plastic Bags](https://www.instructables.com/Fanny-Pack-From-Plastic-Bags/)\n- [Fused Plastic Patchwork Belt Tutorial](https://www.lilblueboo.com/2009/11/fused-plastic-patchwork-belt-tutorial.html)\n- [Up-cycled Plastic Bag Weaving DIY](https://maptote.com/blogs/blog/up-cycled-plastic-bag-weaving-diy)\n- [DIY Reusable Plastic Bags](https://www.hallmarkchannel.com/home-and-family/how-to/diy-reusable-plastic-bags)\n- [Up-fuse Upcycling Fanny Pack](https://gundara.com/SHOP/vegan-bags/funky-upcycling-fanny-pack-organic-cotton-egypt)\n\n#### Academic Papers\n\n- [Non-Biodegradable Plastic Bag Waste into Upcycled Non-Woven Textiles](https://www.iastatedigitalpress.com/itaa/article/id/18611/)\n\n#### Open Source Designs\n\n- [Free Core Belt Pattern](https://corefabricstore.com/blogs/tips-and-resources/free-belt-bag-pattern)\n- [Fanny Pack From Plastic Bags (Instructables)](https://www.instructables.com/Fanny-Pack-From-Plastic-Bags/)\n\n#### YouTube\n\n- [Referencing in R Markdown](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CFduzFJ7Xec)\n\n#### Product Listings\n\n- [Upcycled Weave Handmade Fanny Pack](https://itokri.com/products/2021-620-1-159-upcycled-weave-handmade-fanny-pack-bag)\n- [Up-fuse Upcycling Fanny Pack](https://gundara.com/SHOP/vegan-bags/funky-upcycling-fanny-pack-organic-cotton-egypt)", - "brief": "Create a custom waist bag using our step-by-step guide with plastic bags and sewing techniques for a stylish and eco-friendly accessory." + "content": "Here you will find step by step overview of the process of making a custom fashionable fanny pack / waist bag by fusing plastic bags and a bit of sewing.\n\n\nUser Location: Tallinn, Estonia\n\nMaterials:\nPlastic shopping bags\nStrap - 1.5m\nZipper - 0.4m\nSnap-fit buckle\nBaking paper\nTape\n\nTools:\nIron\nIroning board\nSewing machine\nSewing pins\nScissors\nMarker\nLighter\n\nThe process starts with plastic bag selection. Plastic comes in different types and shapes and it is important to work with similar material. As various types have their own physical properties, mixing material types in one project could be ineffective and lead to a non-recyclable waste.\n\nAt the bottom of the bags there is usually a plastic type symbol (a number in triangle of arrows). While they look and feel the same, the type could be different so we need to sort them.\n\nIn this project we will used LDPE (Light Density Poly Ethylene) - number 4 in the material type symbol. Hence, we will use a red and a yellow bags, shown in the photos.\n\nIn order to get material ready, we need to fuse layers of plastic bags together using a home iron. This could easily be done at home with no risk of messing up the iron or anything around.\n\nThe setup requires baking paper to be placed on an ironing board, two layers of bags placed over it and another layer of baking paper to be placed on top. Plastic bags should not stick out, otherwise there is a risk of melting them onto the board or the iron.\n\nThe layers of bags are then ironed at the temperature somewhere between COTTON and LINEN settings. The iron has to be always moving and not stopping on any spot for too long as it might overheat the plastic. Plastic is to be ironed until it is completely fused. The more pressure you put into ironing, the more flat will the surface of the material be. This process to be repeated until you have 3-4 layers of plastic bags to allow for material durability.\n\nGiven that the instructions are followed properly, no smell or fumes will be released, but for safety measures it is advised to work in a well ventilated room.\n\nNow that all the plastic material is ready, we can make the parts. For this we use the parts outline PDF file above. The file needs to be printed (or hand drawn if you're into that). All dimensions in millimeters [mm].\n\nProcess flow: paper template part outline is cut out, traced onto the plastic. Part is then cut out.\n\nNB! One of the following steps (Step 6) could be skipped if the Top and Back parts are not cut separately, but rather combined into one part with markings.\n\nThe photos attached (in order) Front Part, Top Part, Back.\n\nMark the middle of the curve of the top part of the bag and arrange the middle of the zipper to align with the mark. To sew the parts, put the face of the zipper side with the side that you would want to keep as the outside of the bag together and sew them together with your favourite type of stitch.\n\nWith a simple straight stitch, connect the Top and the Back parts together. This step could be avoided if both parts came combined at the preparation stage. Sewing the parts together does help set the shape of the bag and will keep it more sturdy.\n\nAfter choosing the face side of the front part, marking the middle and aligning the center of the zipper with the mark, sew the parts together. It would be helpful if the zipper can be taken apart and easily put back together as it will ease the sewing process.\n\nNext we need to prepare the straps.\n\nThe strap is cut into two equal pieces. Before we sew them on, it is necessary to make sure they do not come loose. To do that use the lighter, accurately heat up the ends of the strap. Do not put fire directly on the strap but rather have it close by.\n\nWhen the straps preparation is done, sew them to the inside of the Back part of the bag. The more threads you put at this point the stronger the bag will be.\n\nThe hardest step so far. As all the necessary parts are all sewn together, we need to close the bag. This is done while the bag is turned inside out. Mark the middles of the Front part and the Back part. Align the parts together. The zipper has to be open to allow to turn the bag outside in. Make sure the straps end up on the right side of the bag (inside the bag during this step and outside after it is sewn).\n\nAfter sewing, turn the bag inside out / outside in. Make sure that all the corners are fully twisted out because it sets the overall shape of the bag. If everything is correct, the straps are outside and the bag looks like something on the photo.\n\nUsing the sewing pins roll the strap to make the ends. Make sure to put the snap-fit buckle on the strap first!\n\nTo the best of your abilities sew the end. At this point the bag is ready, yay!\n\nThe bag is now ready to use. Adjust the straps and wear this fashionable bag with pride cause you made it yourself! The bag should be ok with a few raindrops but I would not advise carrying it in the rain or similar situations. Be ready also for all the questions about how you made it.\n\nAlso to note, the cool thing about the plastic bag leftovers is that these could be used again in the next plastic bag project.\n\nThank you for following this tutorial, hope to see your versions of the bags." } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/wall-peg-mould/README.md b/howtos/wall-peg-mould/README.md index d7f3e8955..2e122b6cc 100644 --- a/howtos/wall-peg-mould/README.md +++ b/howtos/wall-peg-mould/README.md @@ -1,39 +1,39 @@ --- title: Wall Peg mould slug: wall-peg-mould -description: Access 3D models and blueprints to create the wall peg mold here. +description: Here you will find the 3D model and blueprints to create the wall peg mold! tags: ["product","injection","mould"] category: Moulds difficulty: Easy time: 1-2 weeks -keywords: 3D models, wall peg mold, CNC lathe workshop, steel pipe nipple, sheet metal cutting, mold assembly, fabrication instructions, plastic injection mold, mold drawings, woodworking techniques +keywords: location: Bogota, Colombia --- # Wall Peg mould ![Wall Peg mould](image047-18391cf8ca9.jpg) -Access 3D models and blueprints to create the wall peg mold here. +Here you will find the 3D model and blueprints to create the wall peg mold! User Location: Bogota, Colombia ## Steps ### Step 1: Get your materials and prepare the work: -Ensure all materials are prepared. Review the drawings and steps to understand the process fully. This will enhance efficiency and accuracy. +Make sure you have all your materials ready and go through the drawings and steps to understand the full picture of the process. This will help you to work more efficiently and accurate. + ![1.jpg](./1.jpg) ### Step 2: Cut the nozzle nipple: -### Instructions for Makers - -Begin by cutting the steel pipe nipple (part no. 7) in half to create the mold nozzle. (Refer to Drawings, page 3). +With all the parts in the bag, let’s start cutting the steel pipe nipple (no. 7) in half to make the mold nozzle. (Drawings page 3). ![image005.jpg](./image005.jpg) ### Step 3: Make the nozzle flange: -Retrieve the steel disc (no. 3) and bore a central hole to snugly fit one half of the steel pipe nipple (part no. 7). Refer to drawings on page 4. +Get the steel disc (no. 3) and turn a hole in the center with diameter to fit in tightly one half of the steel pipe nipple (part no. 7). (See drawings page 4) + ![image007.jpg](./image007.jpg) @@ -43,7 +43,8 @@ Retrieve the steel disc (no. 3) and bore a central hole to snugly fit one half o ### Step 4: Turn the nozzle guide -Machine one side of the flange to a 3-inch (7.62 cm) diameter to fit mold body no. 1. (Refer to drawings on page 4) +Turn one face of the flange to create a 3” diameter guide to fit the mold body no. 1: (See drawings page 4) + ![image011.jpg](./image011.jpg) @@ -53,24 +54,23 @@ Machine one side of the flange to a 3-inch (7.62 cm) diameter to fit mold body n ### Step 5: Weld the nozzle -### Instructions for Fabrication +Weld no. 3 and no. 7 together. Then chamfer the welded edge on the lathe: (See drawings page 5) -1. Weld components no. 3 and no. 7 together. -2. Chamfer the welded edge on the lathe. (Refer to drawings on page 5) ![image015.jpg](./image015.jpg) ### Step 6: Drill the base center hole -Obtain disc no. 4 and drill a 9/32-inch (7 mm) hole in the center. Refer to drawings on page 6. +Get disc no. 4 and drill a 9/32” hole in the center. (See drawings page 6) + ![image017.jpg](./image017.jpg) ### Step 7: Drill and cut the screw holes -Drill four holes along the edge of discs 3 and 4, then trim the sides. (See drawings pp. 4-6) +Drill four holes in the border of discs no. 3-4 and cut its sides. (See drawings pages 4-6) ![image019.jpg](./image019.jpg) @@ -83,14 +83,15 @@ Drill four holes along the edge of discs 3 and 4, then trim the sides. (See draw ### Step 8: Drill the base fixing holes -Drill four additional 3/16-inch (4.76 mm) holes in disc number 4. (Refer to drawings on page 6) +Drill four more 3/16” holes in disc no. 4. (See drawings page 6) ![image025.jpg](./image025.jpg) ### Step 9: Get your CNC turned parts -To achieve a curved, smooth, and polished mold cavity surface, provide parts no. 1-2 and the 3D files to a reputable CNC lathe workshop. They can manage various file formats, and the accompanying drawings (pages 7-9) will clarify any uncertainties. +To get that curved, smooth and shiny surface for the cavity of the mold, get the parts no. 1-2 and the 3D files, and take them to the best CNC lathe workshop in town. They will handle the different file extensions, but for any doubts, the drawings will make everything clear. (See drawings pages 7-8-9) + ![image027.jpg](./image027.jpg) @@ -103,7 +104,8 @@ To achieve a curved, smooth, and polished mold cavity surface, provide parts no. ### Step 10: Make the mold base -Take part no. 5 and trim its corners tangent to a 3-inch (7.6 cm) circle, matching the diameter of part no. 2. Refer to drawings on page 10. +Get part no. 5 and cut its corners tangent to a 3” circle (diameter of part no. 2). (See drawings page 10) + ![image033.jpg](./image033.jpg) @@ -113,17 +115,8 @@ Take part no. 5 and trim its corners tangent to a 3-inch (7.6 cm) circle, matchi ### Step 11: Cut the metal sheet -### Instructions for Sheet Metal Cutting +From a thin metal sheet, cut part no. 6 and cut its corners to prevent injuries. With four nails, hammer it in the center of no. 5. (See drawings pages 11-12) -1. **Cutting and Safety Prep:** - - Cut part no. 6 from a thin metal sheet. - - Trim the corners to avoid sharp edges. - -2. **Assembly:** - - Center part no. 6 on part no. 5. - - Secure with four nails. - -(Refer to drawings on pages 11-12 for guidance) ![image037.jpg](./image037.jpg) @@ -136,7 +129,8 @@ Take part no. 5 and trim its corners tangent to a 3-inch (7.6 cm) circle, matchi ### Step 12: Drill the screw holder hole -Drill a ⅛" (3.175 mm) hole in the center of parts no. 5 and 6. Insert a screw to thread the wood. (Refer to drawings on pages 10-12) +Drill a ⅛” hole in the center of parts no. 5 and 6. Insert a screw to create the thread in the wood. (See drawings pages 10-11-12) + ![image043.jpg](./image043.jpg) @@ -146,20 +140,20 @@ Drill a ⅛" (3.175 mm) hole in the center of parts no. 5 and 6. Insert a screw ### Step 13: Done! -Your Wall Peg mold is complete. Insert a new screw into the wooden mold base before each injection to prevent filling the hole with plastic. If it happens, simply drill it out. +And you’re done! Here is your Wall Peg mold. +Remember to put a new screw in the wooden mold base every time you are going to inject. If you forget, the hole will be filled with plastic and won’t work. But don’t worry! Drill it again and you are done. +To open the mold, take off the bolts sideways, then cut the plastic at the entrance and pull apart the mold parts. Then, unscrew the peg off the wooden part and you have your peg ready.. +Since the plug has some volume, it will take time to cool down and the outgoing screw will be soft. Avoid tilting it and make sure it is in the right position. +It will work with all the plastics and it is very easy and smooth to inject. Just explore and find your favorite plastics and mixtures. -To open the mold, remove the bolts, cut the plastic at the entrance, and separate the mold parts. Unscrew the peg from the wooden section to retrieve your peg. - -Allow time for cooling due to the plug's volume and ensure the soft screw is positioned correctly to avoid tilting. - -The mold accommodates all types of plastic and allows smooth injection. ![image047.jpg](./image047.jpg) ### Step 14: Happy hanging :) -To install the peg on the wall, drill a hole and secure it with a wall plug. +To install the peg on the wall, drill a hole and fix it by hand with a wall plug. + ![image049.jpg](./image049.jpg) @@ -171,48 +165,4 @@ To install the peg on the wall, drill a hole and secure it with a wall plug. ![IMG_1846-18391cfacb9.JPG](./IMG_1846-18391cfacb9.JPG) ## Resources -### Tools - -- Steel pipe cutter/hacksaw (for cutting pipe nipple) [Page 3] -- Lathe (for machining flange and chamfering edges) [Pages 4–5, 10] -- Welding machine (components no. 3 & 7) [Fabrication Step 1] -- Drill with 9/32", 3/16", and ⅛" bits [Pages 6, 10–12] -- Metal shears/angle grinder (for sheet metal cutting) [Sheet Metal Cutting Section] - -### Software & Digital Resources - -- 3D models and blueprints (linked in tutorial introduction) -- CAD files (for CNC lathe workshop) [Pages 7–9] -- Technical drawings (pages 3–12 for machining guidance) - -### Hardware Components - -- Steel pipe nipple (part no. 7) [Page 3] -- Steel disc (part no. 3) [Page 4] -- CNC-machined flange (parts no. 1–2) [Pages 7–9] -- Discs (no. 4, 5, 6 for assembly) [Pages 6, 10–12] -- Screws and nails (3/16" and ⅛" sizes) [Pages 10–12] -## References -## References - -### Opensource Designs - -- Wall Peg mould - -### Books - -- [Mold Making and Casting Guide Book](https://composimoldstore.com/mold-making-and-casting-guide/) -- [The Complete Guide to Mold Making with SOLIDWORKS 2025](https://www.sdcpublications.com/Textbooks/Complete-Guide-Mold-Making-SOLIDWORKS/ISBN/978-1-63057-720-9/) - -### Articles - -- [How to Make Molds: The Step-by-Step Process](https://www.artmolds.com/blogs/mold-making/how-to-make-molds-the-step-by-step-process) - -### Papers - -- ~~[Plastics: Mold design and fabrication](https://scholarworks.uni.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=3680\&context=grp)~~ -- [Advanced Injection Molding Methods: Review](https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC10489002/) - -### YouTube - -- [How To Make Decorative Pegboard Wall](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_pmyVPpULDY) \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/wall-peg-mould/config.json b/howtos/wall-peg-mould/config.json index 01ed5a400..572b23911 100644 --- a/howtos/wall-peg-mould/config.json +++ b/howtos/wall-peg-mould/config.json @@ -1,6 +1,6 @@ { "caption": "3 wall peg in use :)", - "description": "Access 3D models and blueprints to create the wall peg mold here.", + "description": "Here you will find the 3D model and blueprints to create the wall peg mold!", "_modified": "2023-11-10T02:32:15.320Z", "fileLink": "", "votedUsefulBy": [ @@ -65,7 +65,7 @@ } ], "caption": "", - "text": "Ensure all materials are prepared. Review the drawings and steps to understand the process fully. This will enhance efficiency and accuracy." + "text": "Make sure you have all your materials ready and go through the drawings and steps to understand the full picture of the process. This will help you to work more efficiently and accurate.\n" }, { "caption": "", @@ -84,7 +84,7 @@ "alt": "image005.jpg" } ], - "text": "### Instructions for Makers\n\nBegin by cutting the steel pipe nipple (part no. 7) in half to create the mold nozzle. (Refer to Drawings, page 3).", + "text": "With all the parts in the bag, let’s start cutting the steel pipe nipple (no. 7) in half to make the mold nozzle. (Drawings page 3). ", "title": "Cut the nozzle nipple:" }, { @@ -117,10 +117,10 @@ } ], "caption": "", - "text": "Retrieve the steel disc (no. 3) and bore a central hole to snugly fit one half of the steel pipe nipple (part no. 7). Refer to drawings on page 4." + "text": "Get the steel disc (no. 3) and turn a hole in the center with diameter to fit in tightly one half of the steel pipe nipple (part no. 7). (See drawings page 4)\n" }, { - "text": "Machine one side of the flange to a 3-inch (7.62 cm) diameter to fit mold body no. 1. (Refer to drawings on page 4)", + "text": "Turn one face of the flange to create a 3” diameter guide to fit the mold body no. 1: (See drawings page 4)\n", "_animationKey": "uniqueppxh8e", "title": "Turn the nozzle guide ", "images": [ @@ -167,7 +167,7 @@ ], "_animationKey": "uniquebgz0uj", "title": "Weld the nozzle", - "text": "### Instructions for Fabrication\n\n1. Weld components no. 3 and no. 7 together.\n2. Chamfer the welded edge on the lathe. (Refer to drawings on page 5)" + "text": "Weld no. 3 and no. 7 together. Then chamfer the welded edge on the lathe: (See drawings page 5)\n" }, { "images": [ @@ -184,7 +184,7 @@ "alt": "image017.jpg" } ], - "text": "Obtain disc no. 4 and drill a 9/32-inch (7 mm) hole in the center. Refer to drawings on page 6.", + "text": "Get disc no. 4 and drill a 9/32” hole in the center. (See drawings page 6)\n", "_animationKey": "unique26flns", "title": "Drill the base center hole" }, @@ -228,11 +228,11 @@ } ], "_animationKey": "uniqueprsjzo", - "text": "Drill four holes along the edge of discs 3 and 4, then trim the sides. (See drawings pp. 4-6)", + "text": "Drill four holes in the border of discs no. 3-4 and cut its sides. (See drawings pages 4-6)", "title": "Drill and cut the screw holes" }, { - "text": "Drill four additional 3/16-inch (4.76 mm) holes in disc number 4. (Refer to drawings on page 6)", + "text": "Drill four more 3/16” holes in disc no. 4. (See drawings page 6)", "images": [ { "contentType": "image/jpeg", @@ -289,7 +289,7 @@ "alt": "image031.jpg" } ], - "text": "To achieve a curved, smooth, and polished mold cavity surface, provide parts no. 1-2 and the 3D files to a reputable CNC lathe workshop. They can manage various file formats, and the accompanying drawings (pages 7-9) will clarify any uncertainties.", + "text": "To get that curved, smooth and shiny surface for the cavity of the mold, get the parts no. 1-2 and the 3D files, and take them to the best CNC lathe workshop in town. They will handle the different file extensions, but for any doubts, the drawings will make everything clear. (See drawings pages 7-8-9)\n", "title": "Get your CNC turned parts", "_animationKey": "uniquel89z7m" }, @@ -322,11 +322,11 @@ "alt": "image035.jpg" } ], - "text": "Take part no. 5 and trim its corners tangent to a 3-inch (7.6 cm) circle, matching the diameter of part no. 2. Refer to drawings on page 10." + "text": "Get part no. 5 and cut its corners tangent to a 3” circle (diameter of part no. 2). (See drawings page 10)\n" }, { "_animationKey": "uniqueoowyyh", - "text": "### Instructions for Sheet Metal Cutting\n\n1. **Cutting and Safety Prep:**\n - Cut part no. 6 from a thin metal sheet.\n - Trim the corners to avoid sharp edges.\n\n2. **Assembly:**\n - Center part no. 6 on part no. 5.\n - Secure with four nails.\n\n(Refer to drawings on pages 11-12 for guidance)", + "text": "From a thin metal sheet, cut part no. 6 and cut its corners to prevent injuries. With four nails, hammer it in the center of no. 5. (See drawings pages 11-12)\n", "images": [ { "downloadUrl": "https://firebasestorage.googleapis.com/v0/b/onearmyworld.appspot.com/o/uploads%2Fv3_howtos%2F0Rfqeen9nVyjoGnzdGL4%2Fimage037.jpg?alt=media&token=8d9a210c-8e42-4416-994b-b92f2ef00950", @@ -396,11 +396,11 @@ ], "title": "Drill the screw holder hole", "_animationKey": "uniquefsend", - "text": "Drill a ⅛\" (3.175 mm) hole in the center of parts no. 5 and 6. Insert a screw to thread the wood. (Refer to drawings on pages 10-12)" + "text": "Drill a ⅛” hole in the center of parts no. 5 and 6. Insert a screw to create the thread in the wood. (See drawings pages 10-11-12)\n" }, { "_animationKey": "uniquef4wq3s", - "text": "Your Wall Peg mold is complete. Insert a new screw into the wooden mold base before each injection to prevent filling the hole with plastic. If it happens, simply drill it out.\n\nTo open the mold, remove the bolts, cut the plastic at the entrance, and separate the mold parts. Unscrew the peg from the wooden section to retrieve your peg.\n\nAllow time for cooling due to the plug's volume and ensure the soft screw is positioned correctly to avoid tilting.\n\nThe mold accommodates all types of plastic and allows smooth injection.", + "text": "And you’re done! Here is your Wall Peg mold.\nRemember to put a new screw in the wooden mold base every time you are going to inject. If you forget, the hole will be filled with plastic and won’t work. But don’t worry! Drill it again and you are done.\nTo open the mold, take off the bolts sideways, then cut the plastic at the entrance and pull apart the mold parts. Then, unscrew the peg off the wooden part and you have your peg ready.. \nSince the plug has some volume, it will take time to cool down and the outgoing screw will be soft. Avoid tilting it and make sure it is in the right position.\nIt will work with all the plastics and it is very easy and smooth to inject. Just explore and find your favorite plastics and mixtures.\n", "images": [ { "timeCreated": "2020-03-10T20:54:16.194Z", @@ -418,7 +418,7 @@ "title": "Done!" }, { - "text": "To install the peg on the wall, drill a hole and secure it with a wall plug.", + "text": "To install the peg on the wall, drill a hole and fix it by hand with a wall plug.\n", "_animationKey": "uniqueyoop6c", "images": [ { @@ -624,9 +624,5 @@ "urls": [] } }, - "content": "Access 3D models and blueprints to create the wall peg mold here.\n\n\nUser Location: Bogota, Colombia\n\nEnsure all materials are prepared. Review the drawings and steps to understand the process fully. This will enhance efficiency and accuracy.\n\n### Instructions for Makers\n\nBegin by cutting the steel pipe nipple (part no. 7) in half to create the mold nozzle. (Refer to Drawings, page 3).\n\nRetrieve the steel disc (no. 3) and bore a central hole to snugly fit one half of the steel pipe nipple (part no. 7). Refer to drawings on page 4.\n\nMachine one side of the flange to a 3-inch (7.62 cm) diameter to fit mold body no. 1. (Refer to drawings on page 4)\n\n### Instructions for Fabrication\n\n1. Weld components no. 3 and no. 7 together.\n2. Chamfer the welded edge on the lathe. (Refer to drawings on page 5)\n\nObtain disc no. 4 and drill a 9/32-inch (7 mm) hole in the center. Refer to drawings on page 6.\n\nDrill four holes along the edge of discs 3 and 4, then trim the sides. (See drawings pp. 4-6)\n\nDrill four additional 3/16-inch (4.76 mm) holes in disc number 4. (Refer to drawings on page 6)\n\nTo achieve a curved, smooth, and polished mold cavity surface, provide parts no. 1-2 and the 3D files to a reputable CNC lathe workshop. They can manage various file formats, and the accompanying drawings (pages 7-9) will clarify any uncertainties.\n\nTake part no. 5 and trim its corners tangent to a 3-inch (7.6 cm) circle, matching the diameter of part no. 2. Refer to drawings on page 10.\n\n### Instructions for Sheet Metal Cutting\n\n1. **Cutting and Safety Prep:**\n - Cut part no. 6 from a thin metal sheet.\n - Trim the corners to avoid sharp edges.\n\n2. **Assembly:**\n - Center part no. 6 on part no. 5.\n - Secure with four nails.\n\n(Refer to drawings on pages 11-12 for guidance)\n\nDrill a ⅛\" (3.175 mm) hole in the center of parts no. 5 and 6. Insert a screw to thread the wood. (Refer to drawings on pages 10-12)\n\nYour Wall Peg mold is complete. Insert a new screw into the wooden mold base before each injection to prevent filling the hole with plastic. If it happens, simply drill it out.\n\nTo open the mold, remove the bolts, cut the plastic at the entrance, and separate the mold parts. Unscrew the peg from the wooden section to retrieve your peg.\n\nAllow time for cooling due to the plug's volume and ensure the soft screw is positioned correctly to avoid tilting.\n\nThe mold accommodates all types of plastic and allows smooth injection.\n\nTo install the peg on the wall, drill a hole and secure it with a wall plug.", - "keywords": "3D models, wall peg mold, CNC lathe workshop, steel pipe nipple, sheet metal cutting, mold assembly, fabrication instructions, plastic injection mold, mold drawings, woodworking techniques", - "resources": "### Tools\n\n- Steel pipe cutter/hacksaw (for cutting pipe nipple) [Page 3]\n- Lathe (for machining flange and chamfering edges) [Pages 4–5, 10]\n- Welding machine (components no. 3 & 7) [Fabrication Step 1]\n- Drill with 9/32\", 3/16\", and ⅛\" bits [Pages 6, 10–12]\n- Metal shears/angle grinder (for sheet metal cutting) [Sheet Metal Cutting Section]\n\n### Software & Digital Resources\n\n- 3D models and blueprints (linked in tutorial introduction)\n- CAD files (for CNC lathe workshop) [Pages 7–9]\n- Technical drawings (pages 3–12 for machining guidance)\n\n### Hardware Components\n\n- Steel pipe nipple (part no. 7) [Page 3]\n- Steel disc (part no. 3) [Page 4]\n- CNC-machined flange (parts no. 1–2) [Pages 7–9]\n- Discs (no. 4, 5, 6 for assembly) [Pages 6, 10–12]\n- Screws and nails (3/16\" and ⅛\" sizes) [Pages 10–12]", - "references": "## References\n\n### Opensource Designs\n\n- Wall Peg mould\n\n### Books\n\n- [Mold Making and Casting Guide Book](https://composimoldstore.com/mold-making-and-casting-guide/)\n- [The Complete Guide to Mold Making with SOLIDWORKS 2025](https://www.sdcpublications.com/Textbooks/Complete-Guide-Mold-Making-SOLIDWORKS/ISBN/978-1-63057-720-9/)\n\n### Articles\n\n- [How to Make Molds: The Step-by-Step Process](https://www.artmolds.com/blogs/mold-making/how-to-make-molds-the-step-by-step-process)\n\n### Papers\n\n- ~~[Plastics: Mold design and fabrication](https://scholarworks.uni.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=3680\\&context=grp)~~\n- [Advanced Injection Molding Methods: Review](https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC10489002/)\n\n### YouTube\n\n- [How To Make Decorative Pegboard Wall](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_pmyVPpULDY)", - "brief": "Access detailed instructions for creating a wall peg mold, including 3D models, blueprints, cutting, and assembly steps to ensure efficiency and accuracy." + "content": "Here you will find the 3D model and blueprints to create the wall peg mold!\n\n\nUser Location: Bogota, Colombia\n\nMake sure you have all your materials ready and go through the drawings and steps to understand the full picture of the process. This will help you to work more efficiently and accurate.\n\n\nWith all the parts in the bag, let’s start cutting the steel pipe nipple (no. 7) in half to make the mold nozzle. (Drawings page 3). \n\nGet the steel disc (no. 3) and turn a hole in the center with diameter to fit in tightly one half of the steel pipe nipple (part no. 7). (See drawings page 4)\n\n\nTurn one face of the flange to create a 3” diameter guide to fit the mold body no. 1: (See drawings page 4)\n\n\nWeld no. 3 and no. 7 together. Then chamfer the welded edge on the lathe: (See drawings page 5)\n\n\nGet disc no. 4 and drill a 9/32” hole in the center. (See drawings page 6)\n\n\nDrill four holes in the border of discs no. 3-4 and cut its sides. (See drawings pages 4-6)\n\nDrill four more 3/16” holes in disc no. 4. (See drawings page 6)\n\nTo get that curved, smooth and shiny surface for the cavity of the mold, get the parts no. 1-2 and the 3D files, and take them to the best CNC lathe workshop in town. They will handle the different file extensions, but for any doubts, the drawings will make everything clear. (See drawings pages 7-8-9)\n\n\nGet part no. 5 and cut its corners tangent to a 3” circle (diameter of part no. 2). (See drawings page 10)\n\n\nFrom a thin metal sheet, cut part no. 6 and cut its corners to prevent injuries. With four nails, hammer it in the center of no. 5. (See drawings pages 11-12)\n\n\nDrill a ⅛” hole in the center of parts no. 5 and 6. Insert a screw to create the thread in the wood. (See drawings pages 10-11-12)\n\n\nAnd you’re done! Here is your Wall Peg mold.\nRemember to put a new screw in the wooden mold base every time you are going to inject. If you forget, the hole will be filled with plastic and won’t work. But don’t worry! Drill it again and you are done.\nTo open the mold, take off the bolts sideways, then cut the plastic at the entrance and pull apart the mold parts. Then, unscrew the peg off the wooden part and you have your peg ready.. \nSince the plug has some volume, it will take time to cool down and the outgoing screw will be soft. Avoid tilting it and make sure it is in the right position.\nIt will work with all the plastics and it is very easy and smooth to inject. Just explore and find your favorite plastics and mixtures.\n\n\nTo install the peg on the wall, drill a hole and fix it by hand with a wall plug.\n" } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/wedoo-automatic-baler-machine/README.md b/howtos/wedoo-automatic-baler-machine/README.md index cf73fd906..9b4f85bfd 100644 --- a/howtos/wedoo-automatic-baler-machine/README.md +++ b/howtos/wedoo-automatic-baler-machine/README.md @@ -1,85 +1,90 @@ --- title: Wedoo automatic baler machine slug: wedoo-automatic-baler-machine -description: **Specification:** -- Work Area: 19.7x19.7x19.7 inches (500x500x500 mm) -- Max Pressure: 1450 psi (100 Bar) -- Hydraulic Bore: 2.36 inches (60 mm) -- Dynamo: 5.5 HP, 3 Phase -- Frame: H-Beam 100 -- Weight Per Ball: 88-154 lbs (40-70 kg) +description: Specification: +Work Area 500x500x500mm +Pressure 100 Bar Max +Hydraulic Bore 60mm +Dynamo 5,5 HP 3 Phase +Frame H-Beam 100 +Weight Per Ball 40-70kg -The automatic baler compresses waste with hydraulic pressure and binds it with twine or wire. This process minimizes manual handling and enhances safety. It efficiently reduces storage space requirements and waste collection frequency, optimizing waste management. +Wedoo's automatic baler operates using hydraulic pressure to compress waste into a compact form, which is then tied or wrapped with twine or wire to keep it together. The machine requires minimal human intervention, reducing the risk of accidents and injuries. Using automatic baler or bottle press machines has numerous benefits, including reducing the amount of space needed to store waste materials, which is especially beneficial in areas where land is scarce. It also reduces the frequency of waste collections, which reduces the carbon footprint of waste management operations. tags: ["other machine"] category: Machines difficulty: Hard time: 3-4 weeks -keywords: automatic baler, hydraulic baler machine, waste management equipment, open source technology, machine building tools, metalworking and welding, CNC milling machine, Autodesk Inventor files, plasma cutting files, 3D CAD designs +keywords: location: Sukawati, Indonesia --- # Wedoo automatic baler machine ![Wedoo automatic baler machine](WhatsApp_Image_2023-04-1-187b310a743.jpg) -**Specification:** -- Work Area: 19.7x19.7x19.7 inches (500x500x500 mm) -- Max Pressure: 1450 psi (100 Bar) -- Hydraulic Bore: 2.36 inches (60 mm) -- Dynamo: 5.5 HP, 3 Phase -- Frame: H-Beam 100 -- Weight Per Ball: 88-154 lbs (40-70 kg) +Specification: +Work Area 500x500x500mm +Pressure 100 Bar Max +Hydraulic Bore 60mm +Dynamo 5,5 HP 3 Phase +Frame H-Beam 100 +Weight Per Ball 40-70kg -The automatic baler compresses waste with hydraulic pressure and binds it with twine or wire. This process minimizes manual handling and enhances safety. It efficiently reduces storage space requirements and waste collection frequency, optimizing waste management. +Wedoo's automatic baler operates using hydraulic pressure to compress waste into a compact form, which is then tied or wrapped with twine or wire to keep it together. The machine requires minimal human intervention, reducing the risk of accidents and injuries. Using automatic baler or bottle press machines has numerous benefits, including reducing the amount of space needed to store waste materials, which is especially beneficial in areas where land is scarce. It also reduces the frequency of waste collections, which reduces the carbon footprint of waste management operations. User Location: Sukawati, Indonesia ## Steps ### Step 1: Download -### Machine Download Package +First off, here is your download package for this machine! -#### Included Files: +In this folder you will find: -- **3D CAD**: .step and .igs -- **Laser Cut Files**: .dxf -- **Blueprints**: .pdf -- **Schematics** -- **Bill of Materials (BOM)** +- 3D CAD (.step and .igs) +- Lasercut files (.dxf) +- Blueprints (.pdf) +- Schematics +- BOM -#### For Autodesk Inventor Users: -- **Assembly**: .iam -- **Construction Drawings**: .Idw -- **Parts**: .Ipt +For Autodesk inventor users, we provided: +.iam = (assembly) +.Idw (construction drawings) +.Ipt (parts) + +We also provide some in-depth pictures and videos in this link +photos.app.goo.gl: photos.app.goo.gl/7ALBkSbWRh6VzzaK9 + -Additional images and videos are available [here](https://photos.app.goo.gl/7ALBkSbWRh6VzzaK9). ![Screenshot 2023-04-24 162208-187b2622d16.png](./Screenshot_2023-04-24_162208-187b2622d16.png) ### Step 2: Required skills and tools -These are the skills and machinery needed for machine building: +These are the required skills and machinery you or your machine builder will need to have access to these skills and tools: -- Metalworking: cutting, drilling +- General metalworking (cutting, drilling) - Welding -- Lathe machining -- Milling -- Plasma cutting (can be subcontracted) -- Electrical work: wiring, temperature control -- Optional: painting equipment +- Turning (machining on a lathe) +- Milling (machining on a mill) +--plasmacutting (this can easily be subcontracted around the world) +- General electrical work (wiring safety switch, temperature controllers…) +- Painting compressor and tools (optional) +- drilling with drill press and handheld drill -**Machinery and Tools:** -- Grinder, chop saw, MIG/MAG or TIG welder, drill press -- Lathe, milling machine (CNC) -- Welding machine -- Compressor (for painting) -- Plasma/laser cutting tools (subcontracting possible) - -**Personal Protective Equipment (PPE):** +⚙️ Machinery / specific tools needed: +- Grinder, chop saw, MIG/MAG or TIG, drill press +- Lathe, mill (CNC) +- welding machine +- Milling machine +- compressor (for painting) +- Plasma/laser cutting (this can easily be subcontracted around the world) +- lathe +PPE - Mask - Welding helmet -- Safety goggles -- Heat-resistant gloves +- safety googles +- heat gloves ![Screenshot_20221228_035519-18557c81e43 (1)-187db87ce33.png](./Screenshot_20221228_035519-18557c81e43_1-187db87ce33.png) @@ -89,14 +94,17 @@ These are the skills and machinery needed for machine building: ### Step 3: cut the parts -Download the plasma cutter files and follow the instructions to cut the machine parts according to the metal plate thickness. Alternatively, you may bring these files to a local machine shop for cutting. +Download the plasma cutter files and follow the instructions and cut your machine parts according to the thickness of the metal plate . You can also bring these sets of files to a local machine builder to get it cut there. + ![unnamed (1)-1878f17fec5.jpg](./unnamed_1-1878f17fec5.jpg) ### Step 4: Build the main frame -Construct the main frame as per the design specifications. For the baler's base, fabricate a platform grid to accommodate the twine or string. Ensure precise welding to form the grid and accurately position it at the frame's bottom. +Cut and build the main frame according to the design +for the base of the baler, you will need to build a 'platform' grid for the twine/string to go through +this requires precision in welding to create both the individual 'grid' and to place it precisely on the bottom of the frame. ![IMG_8259-187b3319530.jpg](./IMG_8259-187b3319530.jpg) @@ -109,9 +117,10 @@ Construct the main frame as per the design specifications. For the baler's base, ### Step 5: Make the hinge -A hinge comprises two parts: one fixed to the door and the other to the frame. Cut all parts using a plasma cutter and weld them together. +Hinge are consisted of two parts, the one that are fixed to the door and the one that are fixed to the frame. +you can cut all the parts with the plasma cutter and weld the assembly together. -After crafting hinges and locks, attach the hinges to the main frame first (see step 7). +once hinges and locks are made, we recommend to attach the hinges on the main frame first (check step 7) ![unnamed (2)-1878f1f1cad.jpg](./unnamed_2-1878f1f1cad.jpg) @@ -124,13 +133,11 @@ After crafting hinges and locks, attach the hinges to the main frame first (see ### Step 6: Build the door -### Instructions for Door Assembly +All four sides of the door have different placement of hinge and lock so make sure you follow the design properly. -Each side of the door has unique hinge and lock placements; follow the design carefully. +We designed the front door with a fold down feature for more ergonomic access to load materials into the machine -The front door is designed to fold down, allowing easier access for loading materials. - -If you are uncertain about precise welding, do not attach the hinge to the door until ensuring all components are aligned (refer to step 7). +If you are unsure about your ability to weld things precisely, we recommend you to not attach the hinge to the door before making sure all your components are aligned (see step 7) ![Screenshot 2023-04-26 225700-187be14c786.png](./Screenshot_2023-04-26_225700-187be14c786.png) @@ -140,11 +147,18 @@ If you are uncertain about precise welding, do not attach the hinge to the door ### Step 7: IMPORTANT: Hinge and Door alignment -### Hinge Alignment Guide for Doors -To ensure proper alignment of your doors, weld the hinge only after positioning the door correctly. Use the hinge on the frame as a guide for smooth movement. You may weld a temporary support, as shown in the picture, to aid alignment. Once the hinges are aligned with the frame, remove the temporary support. +To make sure that your door are aligned properly, only weld your hinge to the door after you position the door in the right place. Following the hinge on the frame as a guide to make sure it moves smoothly + +You can weld a temporary ‘staple’ like in the picture as a support or scaffold to aid the hinge alignment + +weld the hinges to the door according to alignment with the frame then remove the temporary welded 'scaffold' + + +Make sure to remove excess materials from the welding process .When it is aligned properly, all the hinges and the locks should run smoothly. You should be able to open and close all the 4 doors smoothly + + -Remove any excess material from the welding process to ensure smooth operation of all hinges and locks. Properly aligned, all four doors should open and close with ease. ![IMG_8561-1878fd2f565.jpg](./IMG_8561-1878fd2f565.jpg) @@ -157,9 +171,12 @@ Remove any excess material from the welding process to ensure smooth operation o ### Step 8: Build oil tank and case for the motor -### Build Oil Tank and Motor Case +Build oil tank and case for the motor + +Make sure there are no leaks in the seams + +attach it to the top part of the baler according to the 3D drawing. -Ensure all seams are leak-free. Attach to the upper section of the baler according to the 3D drawing. ![IMG_9113-1878fd0212c.jpg](./IMG_9113-1878fd0212c.jpg) @@ -169,9 +186,9 @@ Ensure all seams are leak-free. Attach to the upper section of the baler accordi ### Step 9: Assemble the hydraulic -A team is required due to the heavy hydraulics. Two strong individuals should be positioned above as receivers, with two others lifting and one securing it from below. +This needs a few people to do as the hydraulics are very heavy two strong persons needs to be at top as a receiver, two other lifting the hydraulic and one securing it from underneath. -Elevate the hydraulic and secure it in place. +lift the hydraulic up and secure it in position ![IMG_9093-187dc08ee3c.jpg](./IMG_9093-187dc08ee3c.jpg) @@ -188,8 +205,9 @@ Attach the remaining components: - oil tank - oil pump - motor -- all pipes -- electrical (refer to schematic drawing) +- all the pipes +- electrical (please see the schematics drawing) + ![IMG_0051-1878fd04f1e.JPG](./IMG_0051-1878fd04f1e.JPG) @@ -199,26 +217,31 @@ Attach the remaining components: ### Step 11: Optional step: paint -Test your machine to ensure proper functionality. +Test your machine to make sure it works properly. + +Once you are sure that all the parts are working well, disassemble all the component before painting the frame + + + -Once you confirm all parts are operational, disassemble the components before painting the frame. ![IMG_0144.CR2-1878fd16bf2.jpg](./IMG_0144.CR2-1878fd16bf2.jpg) ### Step 12: Time to press! -We recommend placing your machine on a level surface, and securing it to the floor for greater stability. +We recommend placing your machine on a leveled floor and it's even better if you can screw the machine to the floor too for more stability. + +1. Line the thread/rope you are using to bale +2. load material you want to press to the chamber the door +3. Lock the door +4. Turn on the power +5. Lower Handle valve until pressure gauge gets to 100 bar (max hydraulic capacity +6. Release +7.Add more plastic until you achieve your desired dimension and repeat the process +8. Open the door +9.Tie the baled material -1. Position the thread or rope for baling. -2. Load the material into the chamber and close the door. -3. Lock the door securely. -4. Activate the power. -5. Lower the handle valve until the pressure gauge reaches 100 bar (1450 psi), the maximum hydraulic capacity. -6. Release pressure. -7. Add more material until the desired dimensions are achieved; repeat the process as necessary. -8. Open the door. -9. Tie the baled material securely. ![WhatsApp Image 2023-04-1-187dc0ce80c.jpg](./WhatsApp_Image_2023-04-1-187dc0ce80c.jpg) @@ -228,14 +251,14 @@ We recommend placing your machine on a level surface, and securing it to the flo ### Step 13: Let us know how it goes! -## Open Source Technology for Makers +We believe that open source technology is crucial for the development of sustainable solutions that can be shared and improved upon by a global community of makers, engineers, and designers. By making our design open source, we hope to encourage collaboration, innovation, and creativity. -Open source technology plays a vital role in developing solutions that can be shared and enhanced by a global community of makers, engineers, and designers. By making our design open source, we aim to foster collaboration, innovation, and creativity. +We would love to hear your thoughts, feedback, and suggestions for the design and development of our open source automatic baler machine. Whether you are an experienced engineer or a curious maker, your input and ideas are invaluable to us. Please visit our [filtered] profile for our contact information -We welcome your thoughts, feedback, and suggestions on our open source automatic baler machine. Whether you have engineering experience or are an enthusiastic maker, your ideas are valuable to us. Please visit our profile for contact information. +Let's work together to create a more sustainable future! +Thank you, +Wedoo team -Thank you, -Wedoo Team ![WhatsApp Image 2023-04-19 at 11.27.15-187dc0f57e3.jpg](./WhatsApp_Image_2023-04-19_at_11.27.15-187dc0f57e3.jpg) @@ -244,66 +267,4 @@ Wedoo Team ![IMG_0080-187dc0f7e12.JPG](./IMG_0080-187dc0f7e12.JPG) ## Resources -### Software & Digital Tools - -- [Autodesk Inventor](https://www.autodesk.com/products/inventor) (for .iam/.idw/.ipt files) -- CAD software ([STEP](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ISO_10303-21)/IGES file compatibility) -- DXF file viewers/editors for laser cutting -- PDF blueprints and schematics -- Electrical wiring diagrams - -### Hardware & Machinery - -- MIG/MAG or TIG welder -- CNC milling machine/lathe -- Drill press and grinder -- Plasma cutter (or subcontract via local workshops) -- Air compressor (for painting/cleaning) - -### Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) - -- Welding helmet with auto-darkening lens -- Heat-resistant gloves -- Safety goggles (ANSI Z87+ rated) -- Respirator mask (N95/P100 filters) - -### Subcontracting Options - -- ~~[Plasma/laser cutting services](https://www.thomasnet.com/articles/custom-manufacturing-fabrication/how-to-choose-laser-cutting-service/)~~ -- Hydraulic system installation teams - -### Additional Resources - -- [Assembly visual guide](https://photos.app.goo.gl/7ALBkSbWRh6VzzaK9) -- H-Beam 100 frame specifications -- 3D CAD for oil tank/motor case alignment -## References -## Articles - -- [How an automatic baling press machine works](https://kelvinwatertreatment.com/blog/automatic-baling-press-machine/) -- [Waste recycling baler benefits and operation](https://phswastekit.co.uk/blog/posts/how-does-a-waste-recycling-baler-work) -- [Open-end vs. closed-end baler types](https://www.iqsdirectory.com/articles/baler/baler-machine.html) -- [Industrial baler specifications and applications](https://industrial-balers.com/bailers/) -- [HM-60 Horizontal Baler features](https://harmony1.com/hm-60-horizontal-baler-video/) -- [Vermeer ZR5-1200 Self-propelled Baler](https://www.vermeer.com/na/self-propelled-balers/zr5) - -## Books - -- [Open Source Hardware Development Handbook](https://berlinup.books.tu-berlin.de/en/produkt/978-3-98781-013-8/) -- [Building Machines: Engineering for Kids](https://www.lowplexbooks.com/products/building-machines) - -## Papers - -- [Performance Analysis of I.C. Engine Operated Mini Baler](https://easychair.org/publications/preprint/mTj6/open) -- [Design and Fabrication of Baling Machine](https://www.irjmets.com/uploadedfiles/paper/volume3/issue_4_april_2021/8898/1628083363.pdf) -- [Cloud-Based Hay Bale Tracking System](https://www.timreview.ca/article/1419) -- ~~[Pneumatic Baling System for Tobacco](https://meridian.allenpress.com/tobacco-science/article/doi/10.3381/09-004.1/131225/DESIGN-OF-A-PNEUMATIC-BALING-SYSTEM-FOR-BURLEY-AND)~~ - -## YouTube - -- [Homemade Aluminum Can Baler Tutorial](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1WqrLAE7VZw) - -## Open Source Designs - -- [Baler ML Data Compression Tool](https://github.com/baler-collaboration/baler) -- [Baler Link Validation GitHub Action](https://caltechlibrary.github.io/baler/) \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/wedoo-automatic-baler-machine/config.json b/howtos/wedoo-automatic-baler-machine/config.json index e30199da5..e86e441ad 100644 --- a/howtos/wedoo-automatic-baler-machine/config.json +++ b/howtos/wedoo-automatic-baler-machine/config.json @@ -14,7 +14,7 @@ "previousSlugs": [ "wedoo-automatic-baler-machine" ], - "description": "**Specification:**\n- Work Area: 19.7x19.7x19.7 inches (500x500x500 mm)\n- Max Pressure: 1450 psi (100 Bar)\n- Hydraulic Bore: 2.36 inches (60 mm)\n- Dynamo: 5.5 HP, 3 Phase\n- Frame: H-Beam 100\n- Weight Per Ball: 88-154 lbs (40-70 kg)\n\nThe automatic baler compresses waste with hydraulic pressure and binds it with twine or wire. This process minimizes manual handling and enhances safety. It efficiently reduces storage space requirements and waste collection frequency, optimizing waste management.", + "description": "Specification: \nWork Area 500x500x500mm\nPressure 100 Bar Max\nHydraulic Bore 60mm\nDynamo 5,5 HP 3 Phase\nFrame H-Beam 100\nWeight Per Ball 40-70kg\n\nWedoo's automatic baler operates using hydraulic pressure to compress waste into a compact form, which is then tied or wrapped with twine or wire to keep it together. The machine requires minimal human intervention, reducing the risk of accidents and injuries. Using automatic baler or bottle press machines has numerous benefits, including reducing the amount of space needed to store waste materials, which is especially beneficial in areas where land is scarce. It also reduces the frequency of waste collections, which reduces the carbon footprint of waste management operations. ", "difficulty_level": "Hard", "creatorCountry": "id", "category": { @@ -77,11 +77,11 @@ } ], "title": "Download", - "text": "### Machine Download Package\n\n#### Included Files:\n\n- **3D CAD**: .step and .igs\n- **Laser Cut Files**: .dxf\n- **Blueprints**: .pdf\n- **Schematics**\n- **Bill of Materials (BOM)**\n\n#### For Autodesk Inventor Users:\n\n- **Assembly**: .iam\n- **Construction Drawings**: .Idw\n- **Parts**: .Ipt\n\nAdditional images and videos are available [here](https://photos.app.goo.gl/7ALBkSbWRh6VzzaK9)." + "text": "First off, here is your download package for this machine!\n\nIn this folder you will find:\n\n- 3D CAD (.step and .igs)\n- Lasercut files (.dxf)\n- Blueprints (.pdf)\n- Schematics\n- BOM\n\n\nFor Autodesk inventor users, we provided: \n.iam = (assembly)\n.Idw (construction drawings)\n.Ipt (parts)\n\nWe also provide some in-depth pictures and videos in this link\nphotos.app.goo.gl: photos.app.goo.gl/7ALBkSbWRh6VzzaK9\n\n" }, { "title": "Required skills and tools", - "text": "These are the skills and machinery needed for machine building:\n\n- Metalworking: cutting, drilling\n- Welding\n- Lathe machining\n- Milling\n- Plasma cutting (can be subcontracted)\n- Electrical work: wiring, temperature control\n- Optional: painting equipment\n\n**Machinery and Tools:**\n\n- Grinder, chop saw, MIG/MAG or TIG welder, drill press\n- Lathe, milling machine (CNC)\n- Welding machine\n- Compressor (for painting)\n- Plasma/laser cutting tools (subcontracting possible)\n \n**Personal Protective Equipment (PPE):**\n\n- Mask\n- Welding helmet\n- Safety goggles\n- Heat-resistant gloves", + "text": "These are the required skills and machinery you or your machine builder will need to have access to these skills and tools: \n\n- General metalworking (cutting, drilling)\n- Welding\n- Turning (machining on a lathe)\n- Milling (machining on a mill)\n--plasmacutting (this can easily be subcontracted around the world)\n- General electrical work (wiring safety switch, temperature controllers…)\n- Painting compressor and tools (optional)\n- drilling with drill press and handheld drill\n\n\n⚙️ Machinery / specific tools needed:\n- Grinder, chop saw, MIG/MAG or TIG, drill press\n- Lathe, mill (CNC)\n- welding machine\n- Milling machine\n- compressor (for painting)\n- Plasma/laser cutting (this can easily be subcontracted around the world)\n- lathe\n\nPPE\n- Mask\n- Welding helmet\n- safety googles\n- heat gloves", "images": [ { "timeCreated": "2023-05-02T08:27:38.113Z", @@ -112,7 +112,7 @@ }, { "title": " cut the parts", - "text": "Download the plasma cutter files and follow the instructions to cut the machine parts according to the metal plate thickness. Alternatively, you may bring these files to a local machine shop for cutting.", + "text": "Download the plasma cutter files and follow the instructions and cut your machine parts according to the thickness of the metal plate . You can also bring these sets of files to a local machine builder to get it cut there. \n", "_animationKey": "unique0zl7za", "images": [ { @@ -169,12 +169,12 @@ } ], "_animationKey": "uniquenelfcm", - "text": "Construct the main frame as per the design specifications. For the baler's base, fabricate a platform grid to accommodate the twine or string. Ensure precise welding to form the grid and accurately position it at the frame's bottom.", + "text": "Cut and build the main frame according to the design\nfor the base of the baler, you will need to build a 'platform' grid for the twine/string to go through\nthis requires precision in welding to create both the individual 'grid' and to place it precisely on the bottom of the frame. ", "title": "Build the main frame" }, { "title": "Make the hinge", - "text": "A hinge comprises two parts: one fixed to the door and the other to the frame. Cut all parts using a plasma cutter and weld them together.\n\nAfter crafting hinges and locks, attach the hinges to the main frame first (see step 7).", + "text": "Hinge are consisted of two parts, the one that are fixed to the door and the one that are fixed to the frame. \nyou can cut all the parts with the plasma cutter and weld the assembly together. \n\nonce hinges and locks are made, we recommend to attach the hinges on the main frame first (check step 7)", "images": [ { "updated": "2023-04-17T12:15:36.211Z", @@ -216,7 +216,7 @@ "_animationKey": "unique6smjol" }, { - "text": "### Instructions for Door Assembly\n\nEach side of the door has unique hinge and lock placements; follow the design carefully.\n\nThe front door is designed to fold down, allowing easier access for loading materials.\n\nIf you are uncertain about precise welding, do not attach the hinge to the door until ensuring all components are aligned (refer to step 7).", + "text": "All four sides of the door have different placement of hinge and lock so make sure you follow the design properly.\n\nWe designed the front door with a fold down feature for more ergonomic access to load materials into the machine\n\nIf you are unsure about your ability to weld things precisely, we recommend you to not attach the hinge to the door before making sure all your components are aligned (see step 7)", "title": "Build the door", "images": [ { @@ -248,7 +248,7 @@ }, { "title": "IMPORTANT: Hinge and Door alignment", - "text": "### Hinge Alignment Guide for Doors\n\nTo ensure proper alignment of your doors, weld the hinge only after positioning the door correctly. Use the hinge on the frame as a guide for smooth movement. You may weld a temporary support, as shown in the picture, to aid alignment. Once the hinges are aligned with the frame, remove the temporary support.\n\nRemove any excess material from the welding process to ensure smooth operation of all hinges and locks. Properly aligned, all four doors should open and close with ease.", + "text": "\nTo make sure that your door are aligned properly, only weld your hinge to the door after you position the door in the right place. Following the hinge on the frame as a guide to make sure it moves smoothly \n\nYou can weld a temporary ‘staple’ like in the picture as a support or scaffold to aid the hinge alignment\n\nweld the hinges to the door according to alignment with the frame then remove the temporary welded 'scaffold'\n\n\nMake sure to remove excess materials from the welding process .When it is aligned properly, all the hinges and the locks should run smoothly. You should be able to open and close all the 4 doors smoothly\n\n\n", "_animationKey": "uniquej4vvjt", "images": [ { @@ -291,7 +291,7 @@ }, { "title": "Build oil tank and case for the motor", - "text": "### Build Oil Tank and Motor Case\n\nEnsure all seams are leak-free. Attach to the upper section of the baler according to the 3D drawing.", + "text": "Build oil tank and case for the motor\n\nMake sure there are no leaks in the seams\n\nattach it to the top part of the baler according to the 3D drawing. \n", "images": [ { "updated": "2023-04-17T15:26:37.400Z", @@ -323,7 +323,7 @@ { "title": "Assemble the hydraulic", "_animationKey": "uniquea5li3", - "text": "A team is required due to the heavy hydraulics. Two strong individuals should be positioned above as receivers, with two others lifting and one securing it from below.\n\nElevate the hydraulic and secure it in place.", + "text": "This needs a few people to do as the hydraulics are very heavy two strong persons needs to be at top as a receiver, two other lifting the hydraulic and one securing it from underneath. \n\nlift the hydraulic up and secure it in position", "images": [ { "fullPath": "uploads/howtos/YSuwwvw4SZ3SHED8LdzL/IMG_9093-187dc08ee3c.jpg", @@ -392,7 +392,7 @@ ], "_animationKey": "uniqueticf", "title": "Assembling the remaining component and test", - "text": "Attach the remaining components:\n- oil tank\n- oil pump\n- motor\n- all pipes\n- electrical (refer to schematic drawing)" + "text": "Attach the remaining components:\n- oil tank\n- oil pump\n- motor\n- all the pipes \n- electrical (please see the schematics drawing)\n" }, { "title": "Optional step: paint", @@ -410,11 +410,11 @@ "alt": "IMG_0144.CR2-1878fd16bf2.jpg" } ], - "text": "Test your machine to ensure proper functionality.\n\nOnce you confirm all parts are operational, disassemble the components before painting the frame.", + "text": "Test your machine to make sure it works properly. \n\nOnce you are sure that all the parts are working well, disassemble all the component before painting the frame\n\n\n\n", "_animationKey": "unique4w4sev" }, { - "text": "We recommend placing your machine on a level surface, and securing it to the floor for greater stability.\n\n1. Position the thread or rope for baling.\n2. Load the material into the chamber and close the door.\n3. Lock the door securely.\n4. Activate the power.\n5. Lower the handle valve until the pressure gauge reaches 100 bar (1450 psi), the maximum hydraulic capacity.\n6. Release pressure.\n7. Add more material until the desired dimensions are achieved; repeat the process as necessary.\n8. Open the door.\n9. Tie the baled material securely.", + "text": "We recommend placing your machine on a leveled floor and it's even better if you can screw the machine to the floor too for more stability.\n\n1. Line the thread/rope you are using to bale\n2. load material you want to press to the chamber the door\n3. Lock the door\n4. Turn on the power\n5. Lower Handle valve until pressure gauge gets to 100 bar (max hydraulic capacity\n6. Release\n7.Add more plastic until you achieve your desired dimension and repeat the process\n8. Open the door\n9.Tie the baled material\n", "title": "Time to press!", "_animationKey": "uniquebn7keh", "images": [ @@ -446,7 +446,7 @@ }, { "title": "Let us know how it goes!", - "text": "## Open Source Technology for Makers\n\nOpen source technology plays a vital role in developing solutions that can be shared and enhanced by a global community of makers, engineers, and designers. By making our design open source, we aim to foster collaboration, innovation, and creativity.\n\nWe welcome your thoughts, feedback, and suggestions on our open source automatic baler machine. Whether you have engineering experience or are an enthusiastic maker, your ideas are valuable to us. Please visit our profile for contact information.\n\nThank you, \nWedoo Team", + "text": "We believe that open source technology is crucial for the development of sustainable solutions that can be shared and improved upon by a global community of makers, engineers, and designers. By making our design open source, we hope to encourage collaboration, innovation, and creativity.\n\nWe would love to hear your thoughts, feedback, and suggestions for the design and development of our open source automatic baler machine. Whether you are an experienced engineer or a curious maker, your input and ideas are invaluable to us. Please visit our [filtered] profile for our contact information\n\nLet's work together to create a more sustainable future!\nThank you,\nWedoo team\n", "_animationKey": "unique6gzy65", "images": [ { @@ -623,9 +623,5 @@ "urls": [] } }, - "content": "**Specification:**\n- Work Area: 19.7x19.7x19.7 inches (500x500x500 mm)\n- Max Pressure: 1450 psi (100 Bar)\n- Hydraulic Bore: 2.36 inches (60 mm)\n- Dynamo: 5.5 HP, 3 Phase\n- Frame: H-Beam 100\n- Weight Per Ball: 88-154 lbs (40-70 kg)\n\nThe automatic baler compresses waste with hydraulic pressure and binds it with twine or wire. This process minimizes manual handling and enhances safety. It efficiently reduces storage space requirements and waste collection frequency, optimizing waste management.\n\n\nUser Location: Sukawati, Indonesia\n\n### Machine Download Package\n\n#### Included Files:\n\n- **3D CAD**: .step and .igs\n- **Laser Cut Files**: .dxf\n- **Blueprints**: .pdf\n- **Schematics**\n- **Bill of Materials (BOM)**\n\n#### For Autodesk Inventor Users:\n\n- **Assembly**: .iam\n- **Construction Drawings**: .Idw\n- **Parts**: .Ipt\n\nAdditional images and videos are available [here](https://photos.app.goo.gl/7ALBkSbWRh6VzzaK9).\n\nThese are the skills and machinery needed for machine building:\n\n- Metalworking: cutting, drilling\n- Welding\n- Lathe machining\n- Milling\n- Plasma cutting (can be subcontracted)\n- Electrical work: wiring, temperature control\n- Optional: painting equipment\n\n**Machinery and Tools:**\n\n- Grinder, chop saw, MIG/MAG or TIG welder, drill press\n- Lathe, milling machine (CNC)\n- Welding machine\n- Compressor (for painting)\n- Plasma/laser cutting tools (subcontracting possible)\n \n**Personal Protective Equipment (PPE):**\n\n- Mask\n- Welding helmet\n- Safety goggles\n- Heat-resistant gloves\n\nDownload the plasma cutter files and follow the instructions to cut the machine parts according to the metal plate thickness. Alternatively, you may bring these files to a local machine shop for cutting.\n\nConstruct the main frame as per the design specifications. For the baler's base, fabricate a platform grid to accommodate the twine or string. Ensure precise welding to form the grid and accurately position it at the frame's bottom.\n\nA hinge comprises two parts: one fixed to the door and the other to the frame. Cut all parts using a plasma cutter and weld them together.\n\nAfter crafting hinges and locks, attach the hinges to the main frame first (see step 7).\n\n### Instructions for Door Assembly\n\nEach side of the door has unique hinge and lock placements; follow the design carefully.\n\nThe front door is designed to fold down, allowing easier access for loading materials.\n\nIf you are uncertain about precise welding, do not attach the hinge to the door until ensuring all components are aligned (refer to step 7).\n\n### Hinge Alignment Guide for Doors\n\nTo ensure proper alignment of your doors, weld the hinge only after positioning the door correctly. Use the hinge on the frame as a guide for smooth movement. You may weld a temporary support, as shown in the picture, to aid alignment. Once the hinges are aligned with the frame, remove the temporary support.\n\nRemove any excess material from the welding process to ensure smooth operation of all hinges and locks. Properly aligned, all four doors should open and close with ease.\n\n### Build Oil Tank and Motor Case\n\nEnsure all seams are leak-free. Attach to the upper section of the baler according to the 3D drawing.\n\nA team is required due to the heavy hydraulics. Two strong individuals should be positioned above as receivers, with two others lifting and one securing it from below.\n\nElevate the hydraulic and secure it in place.\n\nAttach the remaining components:\n- oil tank\n- oil pump\n- motor\n- all pipes\n- electrical (refer to schematic drawing)\n\nTest your machine to ensure proper functionality.\n\nOnce you confirm all parts are operational, disassemble the components before painting the frame.\n\nWe recommend placing your machine on a level surface, and securing it to the floor for greater stability.\n\n1. Position the thread or rope for baling.\n2. Load the material into the chamber and close the door.\n3. Lock the door securely.\n4. Activate the power.\n5. Lower the handle valve until the pressure gauge reaches 100 bar (1450 psi), the maximum hydraulic capacity.\n6. Release pressure.\n7. Add more material until the desired dimensions are achieved; repeat the process as necessary.\n8. Open the door.\n9. Tie the baled material securely.\n\n## Open Source Technology for Makers\n\nOpen source technology plays a vital role in developing solutions that can be shared and enhanced by a global community of makers, engineers, and designers. By making our design open source, we aim to foster collaboration, innovation, and creativity.\n\nWe welcome your thoughts, feedback, and suggestions on our open source automatic baler machine. Whether you have engineering experience or are an enthusiastic maker, your ideas are valuable to us. Please visit our profile for contact information.\n\nThank you, \nWedoo Team", - "keywords": "automatic baler, hydraulic baler machine, waste management equipment, open source technology, machine building tools, metalworking and welding, CNC milling machine, Autodesk Inventor files, plasma cutting files, 3D CAD designs", - "resources": "### Software & Digital Tools\n\n- [Autodesk Inventor](https://www.autodesk.com/products/inventor) (for .iam/.idw/.ipt files)\n- CAD software ([STEP](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ISO_10303-21)/IGES file compatibility)\n- DXF file viewers/editors for laser cutting\n- PDF blueprints and schematics\n- Electrical wiring diagrams\n\n### Hardware & Machinery\n\n- MIG/MAG or TIG welder\n- CNC milling machine/lathe\n- Drill press and grinder\n- Plasma cutter (or subcontract via local workshops)\n- Air compressor (for painting/cleaning)\n\n### Personal Protective Equipment (PPE)\n\n- Welding helmet with auto-darkening lens\n- Heat-resistant gloves\n- Safety goggles (ANSI Z87+ rated)\n- Respirator mask (N95/P100 filters)\n\n### Subcontracting Options\n\n- ~~[Plasma/laser cutting services](https://www.thomasnet.com/articles/custom-manufacturing-fabrication/how-to-choose-laser-cutting-service/)~~\n- Hydraulic system installation teams\n\n### Additional Resources\n\n- [Assembly visual guide](https://photos.app.goo.gl/7ALBkSbWRh6VzzaK9)\n- H-Beam 100 frame specifications\n- 3D CAD for oil tank/motor case alignment", - "references": "## Articles\n\n- [How an automatic baling press machine works](https://kelvinwatertreatment.com/blog/automatic-baling-press-machine/)\n- [Waste recycling baler benefits and operation](https://phswastekit.co.uk/blog/posts/how-does-a-waste-recycling-baler-work)\n- [Open-end vs. closed-end baler types](https://www.iqsdirectory.com/articles/baler/baler-machine.html)\n- [Industrial baler specifications and applications](https://industrial-balers.com/bailers/)\n- [HM-60 Horizontal Baler features](https://harmony1.com/hm-60-horizontal-baler-video/)\n- [Vermeer ZR5-1200 Self-propelled Baler](https://www.vermeer.com/na/self-propelled-balers/zr5)\n\n## Books\n\n- [Open Source Hardware Development Handbook](https://berlinup.books.tu-berlin.de/en/produkt/978-3-98781-013-8/)\n- [Building Machines: Engineering for Kids](https://www.lowplexbooks.com/products/building-machines)\n\n## Papers\n\n- [Performance Analysis of I.C. Engine Operated Mini Baler](https://easychair.org/publications/preprint/mTj6/open)\n- [Design and Fabrication of Baling Machine](https://www.irjmets.com/uploadedfiles/paper/volume3/issue_4_april_2021/8898/1628083363.pdf)\n- [Cloud-Based Hay Bale Tracking System](https://www.timreview.ca/article/1419)\n- ~~[Pneumatic Baling System for Tobacco](https://meridian.allenpress.com/tobacco-science/article/doi/10.3381/09-004.1/131225/DESIGN-OF-A-PNEUMATIC-BALING-SYSTEM-FOR-BURLEY-AND)~~\n\n## YouTube\n\n- [Homemade Aluminum Can Baler Tutorial](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1WqrLAE7VZw)\n\n## Open Source Designs\n\n- [Baler ML Data Compression Tool](https://github.com/baler-collaboration/baler)\n- [Baler Link Validation GitHub Action](https://caltechlibrary.github.io/baler/)", - "brief": "Optimize waste management with our open source automatic baler. Compress, bind waste efficiently, and reduce storage needs with safety in mind." + "content": "Specification: \nWork Area 500x500x500mm\nPressure 100 Bar Max\nHydraulic Bore 60mm\nDynamo 5,5 HP 3 Phase\nFrame H-Beam 100\nWeight Per Ball 40-70kg\n\nWedoo's automatic baler operates using hydraulic pressure to compress waste into a compact form, which is then tied or wrapped with twine or wire to keep it together. The machine requires minimal human intervention, reducing the risk of accidents and injuries. Using automatic baler or bottle press machines has numerous benefits, including reducing the amount of space needed to store waste materials, which is especially beneficial in areas where land is scarce. It also reduces the frequency of waste collections, which reduces the carbon footprint of waste management operations. \n\n\nUser Location: Sukawati, Indonesia\n\nFirst off, here is your download package for this machine!\n\nIn this folder you will find:\n\n- 3D CAD (.step and .igs)\n- Lasercut files (.dxf)\n- Blueprints (.pdf)\n- Schematics\n- BOM\n\n\nFor Autodesk inventor users, we provided: \n.iam = (assembly)\n.Idw (construction drawings)\n.Ipt (parts)\n\nWe also provide some in-depth pictures and videos in this link\nphotos.app.goo.gl: photos.app.goo.gl/7ALBkSbWRh6VzzaK9\n\n\n\nThese are the required skills and machinery you or your machine builder will need to have access to these skills and tools: \n\n- General metalworking (cutting, drilling)\n- Welding\n- Turning (machining on a lathe)\n- Milling (machining on a mill)\n--plasmacutting (this can easily be subcontracted around the world)\n- General electrical work (wiring safety switch, temperature controllers…)\n- Painting compressor and tools (optional)\n- drilling with drill press and handheld drill\n\n\n⚙️ Machinery / specific tools needed:\n- Grinder, chop saw, MIG/MAG or TIG, drill press\n- Lathe, mill (CNC)\n- welding machine\n- Milling machine\n- compressor (for painting)\n- Plasma/laser cutting (this can easily be subcontracted around the world)\n- lathe\n\nPPE\n- Mask\n- Welding helmet\n- safety googles\n- heat gloves\n\nDownload the plasma cutter files and follow the instructions and cut your machine parts according to the thickness of the metal plate . You can also bring these sets of files to a local machine builder to get it cut there. \n\n\nCut and build the main frame according to the design\nfor the base of the baler, you will need to build a 'platform' grid for the twine/string to go through\nthis requires precision in welding to create both the individual 'grid' and to place it precisely on the bottom of the frame. \n\nHinge are consisted of two parts, the one that are fixed to the door and the one that are fixed to the frame. \nyou can cut all the parts with the plasma cutter and weld the assembly together. \n\nonce hinges and locks are made, we recommend to attach the hinges on the main frame first (check step 7)\n\nAll four sides of the door have different placement of hinge and lock so make sure you follow the design properly.\n\nWe designed the front door with a fold down feature for more ergonomic access to load materials into the machine\n\nIf you are unsure about your ability to weld things precisely, we recommend you to not attach the hinge to the door before making sure all your components are aligned (see step 7)\n\n\nTo make sure that your door are aligned properly, only weld your hinge to the door after you position the door in the right place. Following the hinge on the frame as a guide to make sure it moves smoothly \n\nYou can weld a temporary ‘staple’ like in the picture as a support or scaffold to aid the hinge alignment\n\nweld the hinges to the door according to alignment with the frame then remove the temporary welded 'scaffold'\n\n\nMake sure to remove excess materials from the welding process .When it is aligned properly, all the hinges and the locks should run smoothly. You should be able to open and close all the 4 doors smoothly\n\n\n\n\nBuild oil tank and case for the motor\n\nMake sure there are no leaks in the seams\n\nattach it to the top part of the baler according to the 3D drawing. \n\n\nThis needs a few people to do as the hydraulics are very heavy two strong persons needs to be at top as a receiver, two other lifting the hydraulic and one securing it from underneath. \n\nlift the hydraulic up and secure it in position\n\nAttach the remaining components:\n- oil tank\n- oil pump\n- motor\n- all the pipes \n- electrical (please see the schematics drawing)\n\n\nTest your machine to make sure it works properly. \n\nOnce you are sure that all the parts are working well, disassemble all the component before painting the frame\n\n\n\n\n\nWe recommend placing your machine on a leveled floor and it's even better if you can screw the machine to the floor too for more stability.\n\n1. Line the thread/rope you are using to bale\n2. load material you want to press to the chamber the door\n3. Lock the door\n4. Turn on the power\n5. Lower Handle valve until pressure gauge gets to 100 bar (max hydraulic capacity\n6. Release\n7.Add more plastic until you achieve your desired dimension and repeat the process\n8. Open the door\n9.Tie the baled material\n\n\nWe believe that open source technology is crucial for the development of sustainable solutions that can be shared and improved upon by a global community of makers, engineers, and designers. By making our design open source, we hope to encourage collaboration, innovation, and creativity.\n\nWe would love to hear your thoughts, feedback, and suggestions for the design and development of our open source automatic baler machine. Whether you are an experienced engineer or a curious maker, your input and ideas are invaluable to us. Please visit our [filtered] profile for our contact information\n\nLet's work together to create a more sustainable future!\nThank you,\nWedoo team\n" } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/weld-plastic-professionally/README.md b/howtos/weld-plastic-professionally/README.md index 15349b85b..90c8ee042 100644 --- a/howtos/weld-plastic-professionally/README.md +++ b/howtos/weld-plastic-professionally/README.md @@ -1,40 +1,48 @@ --- title: Weld plastic professionally slug: weld-plastic-professionally -description: This guide demonstrates plastic welding techniques using a heat gun and a professional plastic welding tool. +description: Here we show you the process of plastic welding and a variety of applications using a heatgun (lowtech) and a professional plastic welding gun. + tags: ["PP","other machine","HDPE"] category: uncategorized difficulty: Medium time: < 1 day -keywords: plastic welding techniques, heat gun plastic welding, professional plastic welding tool, plastic welding equipment, sandwich plank, T-profile formation, hull gap sealing, creative plastic welding, Lamu Kenya plastic welding, DIY plastic welding +keywords: location: Lamu, Kenya --- # Weld plastic professionally ![Weld plastic professionally](PP-FF-welding-189e47463f1.jpg) -This guide demonstrates plastic welding techniques using a heat gun and a professional plastic welding tool. +Here we show you the process of plastic welding and a variety of applications using a heatgun (lowtech) and a professional plastic welding gun. + User Location: Lamu, Kenya ## Steps ### Step 1: Watch -This video covers the following topics: -- Equipment for plastic welding and its operation -- Creating a "sandwich plank" (a large beam from standard plastic planks) -- Forming a T-profile -- Sealing gaps in a boat hull +In this video we show you: +- the equipment that can be used for plastic welding and how it works +- how to make a "sandwich plank" (a big beam out of normal plastic planks) +- how to make a T-profile +- how to seal gaps of a boat hull ### Step 2: Try it yourself! -There are numerous applications for this technique. Use your creativity. +There is so many more things you could do with this technique - let your creativity flow! -This method can be explored using a regular heat gun. For a more refined approach, consider using professional equipment or modifying a heat gun for improved performance. +You can try this technique in a low-tech way with a conventional heat gun, +- or maybe you even get the professional tool, +- OR maybe you can even come up with a modification for a heatgun to do it more professionally? +Let us know! ![19f7d362-cf1c-42e6-9fd1-d2582aef0880 2-189e47f59e4.png](./19f7d362-cf1c-42e6-9fd1-d2582aef0880_2-189e47f59e4.png) ### Step 3: Share your results :) -We welcome your feedback on how this technique has influenced your creations. Please share your results with us. +We would love to hear if this helped or inspired you to use this technique for your creations. +So make sure to let us know (you can tag or send us photos on instagram @​​​​theflipflopi) or find other ways to share your results :) + +Have fun! ![PXL_20230529_103409274-189e47bdd52.jpg](./PXL_20230529_103409274-189e47bdd52.jpg) @@ -43,49 +51,4 @@ We welcome your feedback on how this technique has influenced your creations. Pl ![PXL_20230529_103243964-189e47beb5b.jpg](./PXL_20230529_103243964-189e47beb5b.jpg) ## Resources -### Tools - -- Regular heat gun -- Professional plastic welding tool -- Modified heat gun (optional for enhanced performance) - -### Hardware - -- Standard plastic planks (for "sandwich plank" construction) -- T-profile forming materials -- Boat hull components (for gap sealing applications) - -### Software - -- No specialized software required - -This setup allows experimentation with basic tools while offering flexibility for advanced modifications[1]. The technique emphasizes adaptability, encouraging users to iteratively refine their approach based on project needs[1]. -## References -## Articles - -- [https://www.electricalworld.com/Images/Manuals/Sealey-Plastic-Welding-Kit-Instructions.pdf] -- [https://leadrp.net/blog/plastic-welding-basics-how-to-weld-plastic/] -- [https://www.perigeedirect.com/pages/plastic-welding-basics-techniques-how-tos] -- [https://www.masterappliance.com/resource-center/two-methods-of-welding-plastic-with-a-heat-gun/] -- [https://www.seelyeinc-orl.com/wp-content/uploads/Seelye_How-to-Weld-Guide_2019.pdf] -- [https://plasticsdecorating.com/articles/2017/ultrasonic-plastics-welding-the-influence-of-base-materials/] -- [https://www.dukane.com/resources/blog/item/emerging-technologies-an-introduction-to-particulate-free-welding] -- [https://www.emerson.com/en-us/automation/welding-assembly-cleaning/laser-welding] - -## Books - -- [https://www.headhousebooks.com/book/9781569903131] -- [https://www.assemblymag.com/products/549-laser-welding-of-plastics] -- [https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/book/10.1002/9783527636969] - -## YouTube - -- [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PniBA6ABcgY] -- [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ztYN1pwN5a8] -- [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=44lih_dnhuo] -- [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K5-aOMBwd1U] -- [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G-HdpLvjMSU] - -## Opensource Designs - -- [https://reprap.org/wiki/Open_Source_Laser_Polymer_Welding_System:_Design_and_Characterization_of_Linear_Low-Density_Polyethylene_Multilayer_Welds] \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/weld-plastic-professionally/config.json b/howtos/weld-plastic-professionally/config.json index 20e572541..23d97fcfc 100644 --- a/howtos/weld-plastic-professionally/config.json +++ b/howtos/weld-plastic-professionally/config.json @@ -4,7 +4,7 @@ { "_animationKey": "unique1", "images": [], - "text": "This video covers the following topics:\n- Equipment for plastic welding and its operation\n- Creating a \"sandwich plank\" (a large beam from standard plastic planks)\n- Forming a T-profile\n- Sealing gaps in a boat hull", + "text": "In this video we show you:\n- the equipment that can be used for plastic welding and how it works\n- how to make a \"sandwich plank\" (a big beam out of normal plastic planks)\n- how to make a T-profile\n- how to seal gaps of a boat hull", "videoUrl": "https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PniBA6ABcgY", "title": "Watch " }, @@ -23,7 +23,7 @@ "alt": "19f7d362-cf1c-42e6-9fd1-d2582aef0880 2-189e47f59e4.png" } ], - "text": "There are numerous applications for this technique. Use your creativity.\n\nThis method can be explored using a regular heat gun. For a more refined approach, consider using professional equipment or modifying a heat gun for improved performance.", + "text": "There is so many more things you could do with this technique - let your creativity flow!\n\nYou can try this technique in a low-tech way with a conventional heat gun,\n- or maybe you even get the professional tool,\n- OR maybe you can even come up with a modification for a heatgun to do it more professionally? \nLet us know!", "title": "Try it yourself!", "_animationKey": "unique2" }, @@ -56,7 +56,7 @@ "alt": "PXL_20230529_103243964-189e47beb5b.jpg" } ], - "text": "We welcome your feedback on how this technique has influenced your creations. Please share your results with us." + "text": "We would love to hear if this helped or inspired you to use this technique for your creations. \nSo make sure to let us know (you can tag or send us photos on instagram @​​​​theflipflopi) or find other ways to share your results :)\n\nHave fun!" } ], "creatorCountry": "ke", @@ -66,7 +66,7 @@ "other machine", "HDPE" ], - "description": "This guide demonstrates plastic welding techniques using a heat gun and a professional plastic welding tool.", + "description": "Here we show you the process of plastic welding and a variety of applications using a heatgun (lowtech) and a professional plastic welding gun.\n", "_contentModifiedTimestamp": "2023-08-17T15:42:14.889Z", "moderation": "accepted", "time": "< 1 day", @@ -216,9 +216,5 @@ "category": { "label": "uncategorized" }, - "content": "This guide demonstrates plastic welding techniques using a heat gun and a professional plastic welding tool.\n\n\nUser Location: Lamu, Kenya\n\nThis video covers the following topics:\n- Equipment for plastic welding and its operation\n- Creating a \"sandwich plank\" (a large beam from standard plastic planks)\n- Forming a T-profile\n- Sealing gaps in a boat hull\n\nThere are numerous applications for this technique. Use your creativity.\n\nThis method can be explored using a regular heat gun. For a more refined approach, consider using professional equipment or modifying a heat gun for improved performance.\n\nWe welcome your feedback on how this technique has influenced your creations. Please share your results with us.", - "keywords": "plastic welding techniques, heat gun plastic welding, professional plastic welding tool, plastic welding equipment, sandwich plank, T-profile formation, hull gap sealing, creative plastic welding, Lamu Kenya plastic welding, DIY plastic welding", - "resources": "### Tools\n\n- Regular heat gun\n- Professional plastic welding tool\n- Modified heat gun (optional for enhanced performance)\n\n### Hardware\n\n- Standard plastic planks (for \"sandwich plank\" construction)\n- T-profile forming materials\n- Boat hull components (for gap sealing applications)\n\n### Software\n\n- No specialized software required\n\nThis setup allows experimentation with basic tools while offering flexibility for advanced modifications[1]. The technique emphasizes adaptability, encouraging users to iteratively refine their approach based on project needs[1].", - "references": "## Articles\n\n- [https://www.electricalworld.com/Images/Manuals/Sealey-Plastic-Welding-Kit-Instructions.pdf]\n- [https://leadrp.net/blog/plastic-welding-basics-how-to-weld-plastic/]\n- [https://www.perigeedirect.com/pages/plastic-welding-basics-techniques-how-tos]\n- [https://www.masterappliance.com/resource-center/two-methods-of-welding-plastic-with-a-heat-gun/]\n- [https://www.seelyeinc-orl.com/wp-content/uploads/Seelye_How-to-Weld-Guide_2019.pdf]\n- [https://plasticsdecorating.com/articles/2017/ultrasonic-plastics-welding-the-influence-of-base-materials/]\n- [https://www.dukane.com/resources/blog/item/emerging-technologies-an-introduction-to-particulate-free-welding]\n- [https://www.emerson.com/en-us/automation/welding-assembly-cleaning/laser-welding]\n\n## Books\n\n- [https://www.headhousebooks.com/book/9781569903131]\n- [https://www.assemblymag.com/products/549-laser-welding-of-plastics]\n- [https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/book/10.1002/9783527636969]\n\n## YouTube\n\n- [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PniBA6ABcgY]\n- [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ztYN1pwN5a8]\n- [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=44lih_dnhuo]\n- [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K5-aOMBwd1U]\n- [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G-HdpLvjMSU]\n\n## Opensource Designs\n\n- [https://reprap.org/wiki/Open_Source_Laser_Polymer_Welding_System:_Design_and_Characterization_of_Linear_Low-Density_Polyethylene_Multilayer_Welds]", - "brief": "Learn plastic welding with a heat gun! Explore applications like making beams and sealing boat hulls. Ideal for DIY enthusiasts and professionals alike." + "content": "Here we show you the process of plastic welding and a variety of applications using a heatgun (lowtech) and a professional plastic welding gun.\n\n\n\nUser Location: Lamu, Kenya\n\nIn this video we show you:\n- the equipment that can be used for plastic welding and how it works\n- how to make a \"sandwich plank\" (a big beam out of normal plastic planks)\n- how to make a T-profile\n- how to seal gaps of a boat hull\n\nThere is so many more things you could do with this technique - let your creativity flow!\n\nYou can try this technique in a low-tech way with a conventional heat gun,\n- or maybe you even get the professional tool,\n- OR maybe you can even come up with a modification for a heatgun to do it more professionally? \nLet us know!\n\nWe would love to hear if this helped or inspired you to use this technique for your creations. \nSo make sure to let us know (you can tag or send us photos on instagram @​​​​theflipflopi) or find other ways to share your results :)\n\nHave fun!" } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/work-with-hdpe-and-make-a-recycled-pen/README.md b/howtos/work-with-hdpe-and-make-a-recycled-pen/README.md index acff55d4a..6e98ddf98 100644 --- a/howtos/work-with-hdpe-and-make-a-recycled-pen/README.md +++ b/howtos/work-with-hdpe-and-make-a-recycled-pen/README.md @@ -1,37 +1,39 @@ --- title: Work with HDPE and make a recycled pen slug: work-with-hdpe-and-make-a-recycled-pen -description: This guide provides essential instructions for working with HDPE and demonstrates how to create a pen from repurposed plastic. +description: This How-to aims to be the ultimate guide to HDPE and then teach you how to make a recycled pen out of it. -The pen is made from reused plastic materials, offering a colorful option for writing while utilizing surplus plastic. It represents a simple contribution to reducing waste, showing that everyday items can have a meaningful impact. +The recycled plastic pen is a nifty writing tool with an eco-twist. +Crafted from repurposed plastic materials, it's a colorful way to jot down your thoughts while giving a second chance to discarded plastics. It's a small but impactful step toward a greener planet, proving that even everyday items can make a big difference. tags: ["HDPE"] category: uncategorized difficulty: Medium time: < 5 hours -keywords: HDPE pen making, recycled plastic crafts, repurposed plastic pen, eco-friendly pen tutorial, plastic waste reduction, crafting with HDPE, sustainable writing tools, recycled materials pen, homemade pen guide, upcycled plastic pen +keywords: location: Bournemouth, United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland (the) --- # Work with HDPE and make a recycled pen ![Work with HDPE and make a recycled pen](2019-12_BM_HDPE_v2-18a22aa2811.jpg) -This guide provides essential instructions for working with HDPE and demonstrates how to create a pen from repurposed plastic. +This How-to aims to be the ultimate guide to HDPE and then teach you how to make a recycled pen out of it. -The pen is made from reused plastic materials, offering a colorful option for writing while utilizing surplus plastic. It represents a simple contribution to reducing waste, showing that everyday items can have a meaningful impact. +The recycled plastic pen is a nifty writing tool with an eco-twist. +Crafted from repurposed plastic materials, it's a colorful way to jot down your thoughts while giving a second chance to discarded plastics. It's a small but impactful step toward a greener planet, proving that even everyday items can make a big difference. User Location: Bournemouth, United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland (the) ## Steps ### Step 1: Tools needed -For Plastic Melting: +For the plastic melting: - Flat plate panini press - Teflon baking sheets - Silicone oven mitts -- Weighing scales (optional) +- Weighing scales -> optional, but good to have -For Mould Making: +For the mould making: - Drill - Saw -For Pen Making: +For the pen making - Clamps - Lathe - Turning chisel @@ -48,16 +50,17 @@ For Pen Making: ### Step 2: Learn how to work with HDPE and make your pen! -This video aims to instruct you on working with HDPE and crafting a pen. +The goal of this video is to teach you how to work with HDPE and then teach you how to make your recycled pen. -The video is organized into three chapters: +The video is divided in 3 chapters: 1. Materials 2. Equipment -3. Crafting the Pen +3. Making the pen ### Step 3: Outcome -Creating a pen from recycled plastic is an innovative way to repurpose old materials and reduce waste. Writing with these pens not only puts ink on paper but also contributes to environmental conservation. +Creating a recycled plastic pen isn't just about scribbles – it's a mini victory for the environment! These pens give a new life to old plastics, helping to cut down on waste. +So, when you jot down your next brilliant idea with one of these pens, you're not just putting ink on paper – you're also giving a high-five to the planet! 🌍🖊️ ![Captura de tela 2023-08-23 105433-18a22ad26c6.png](./Captura_de_tela_2023-08-23_105433-18a22ad26c6.png) @@ -69,44 +72,4 @@ Creating a pen from recycled plastic is an innovative way to repurpose old mater ![Captura de tela 2023-08-23 105540-18a22ae0fd9.png](./Captura_de_tela_2023-08-23_105540-18a22ae0fd9.png) ## Resources -### Plastic Melting - -- Flat plate panini press -- Teflon baking sheets -- Silicone oven mitts -- Weighing scales (optional) - -### Mould Making - -- Drill -- Saw - -### Pen Making - -- Clamps -- Lathe -- Turning chisel -- Drill -## References -## YouTube - -- [Beginners' Guide to Melting HDPE](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-igxhoGEQFU) -- [How FREE Plastic Waste Can Be Turned into Pens](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VNiHWN1Oc5M) -- [Making Pen Blanks from HDPE](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nsPvmZN3mBo) -- [DIY Plastic Recycling Machines](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q8ZyUsKWpD4) - -## Articles/Tutorials - -- [Make a Pen from HDPE#2 Plastic](https://www.instructables.com/Make-a-YWCA-Pen-From-Recycled-HDPE2-Plastic-Laundr/) -- [Waste Pen Process Explained](https://woodengiftsandmore.shop/about-us/blog/waste-pen/) -- [HDPE Pen and Pencil Set Tutorial](https://www.instructables.com/HDPE-Recycled-Pen-and-Pencil-Set/) -- [Pen Blanks Creation Guide](https://www.instructables.com/Pen-Blanks-1/) -- [Quality Assessment of Recycled Pens](https://www.johnshenstationery.com/How-to-judge-the-quality-of-recycled-plastic-pens.html) - -## Open Source Designs - -- [[filtered] Project](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q8ZyUsKWpD4) - -## Technical Guidelines - -- [APR HDPE Rigid Design Guide](https://plasticsrecycling.org/apr-design-hub/apr-design-guide/hdpe-rigid-colored/) \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/work-with-hdpe-and-make-a-recycled-pen/config.json b/howtos/work-with-hdpe-and-make-a-recycled-pen/config.json index 9fd613fe5..d80e48de9 100644 --- a/howtos/work-with-hdpe-and-make-a-recycled-pen/config.json +++ b/howtos/work-with-hdpe-and-make-a-recycled-pen/config.json @@ -61,12 +61,12 @@ "alt": "Captura de tela 2023-08-23 111007-18a22bbd42c.png" } ], - "text": "For Plastic Melting:\n- Flat plate panini press\n- Teflon baking sheets\n- Silicone oven mitts\n- Weighing scales (optional)\n\nFor Mould Making:\n- Drill\n- Saw\n\nFor Pen Making:\n- Clamps\n- Lathe\n- Turning chisel\n- Drill", + "text": "For the plastic melting:\n- Flat plate panini press\n- Teflon baking sheets\n- Silicone oven mitts\n- Weighing scales -> optional, but good to have\n\nFor the mould making:\n- Drill\n- Saw\n\nFor the pen making\n- Clamps\n- Lathe\n- Turning chisel\n- Drill", "title": "Tools needed" }, { "title": "Learn how to work with HDPE and make your pen!", - "text": "This video aims to instruct you on working with HDPE and crafting a pen.\n\nThe video is organized into three chapters:\n1. Materials\n2. Equipment\n3. Crafting the Pen", + "text": "The goal of this video is to teach you how to work with HDPE and then teach you how to make your recycled pen.\n\nThe video is divided in 3 chapters:\n1. Materials\n2. Equipment\n3. Making the pen", "videoUrl": "https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-igxhoGEQFU", "images": [], "_animationKey": "unique2" @@ -112,7 +112,7 @@ "alt": "Captura de tela 2023-08-23 105540-18a22ae0fd9.png" } ], - "text": "Creating a pen from recycled plastic is an innovative way to repurpose old materials and reduce waste. Writing with these pens not only puts ink on paper but also contributes to environmental conservation." + "text": "Creating a recycled plastic pen isn't just about scribbles – it's a mini victory for the environment! These pens give a new life to old plastics, helping to cut down on waste. \nSo, when you jot down your next brilliant idea with one of these pens, you're not just putting ink on paper – you're also giving a high-five to the planet! 🌍🖊️" } ], "total_downloads": 0, @@ -129,7 +129,7 @@ "mentions": [], "time": "< 5 hours", "_createdBy": "brothers-make", - "description": "This guide provides essential instructions for working with HDPE and demonstrates how to create a pen from repurposed plastic.\n\nThe pen is made from reused plastic materials, offering a colorful option for writing while utilizing surplus plastic. It represents a simple contribution to reducing waste, showing that everyday items can have a meaningful impact.", + "description": "This How-to aims to be the ultimate guide to HDPE and then teach you how to make a recycled pen out of it.\n\nThe recycled plastic pen is a nifty writing tool with an eco-twist. \nCrafted from repurposed plastic materials, it's a colorful way to jot down your thoughts while giving a second chance to discarded plastics. It's a small but impactful step toward a greener planet, proving that even everyday items can make a big difference.", "_deleted": false, "previousSlugs": [ "work-with-hdpe-and-make-a-recycled-pen" @@ -314,9 +314,5 @@ "category": { "label": "uncategorized" }, - "content": "This guide provides essential instructions for working with HDPE and demonstrates how to create a pen from repurposed plastic.\n\nThe pen is made from reused plastic materials, offering a colorful option for writing while utilizing surplus plastic. It represents a simple contribution to reducing waste, showing that everyday items can have a meaningful impact.\n\n\nUser Location: Bournemouth, United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland (the)\n\nFor Plastic Melting:\n- Flat plate panini press\n- Teflon baking sheets\n- Silicone oven mitts\n- Weighing scales (optional)\n\nFor Mould Making:\n- Drill\n- Saw\n\nFor Pen Making:\n- Clamps\n- Lathe\n- Turning chisel\n- Drill\n\nThis video aims to instruct you on working with HDPE and crafting a pen.\n\nThe video is organized into three chapters:\n1. Materials\n2. Equipment\n3. Crafting the Pen\n\nCreating a pen from recycled plastic is an innovative way to repurpose old materials and reduce waste. Writing with these pens not only puts ink on paper but also contributes to environmental conservation.", - "keywords": "HDPE pen making, recycled plastic crafts, repurposed plastic pen, eco-friendly pen tutorial, plastic waste reduction, crafting with HDPE, sustainable writing tools, recycled materials pen, homemade pen guide, upcycled plastic pen", - "resources": "### Plastic Melting\n\n- Flat plate panini press\n- Teflon baking sheets\n- Silicone oven mitts\n- Weighing scales (optional)\n\n### Mould Making\n\n- Drill\n- Saw\n\n### Pen Making\n\n- Clamps\n- Lathe\n- Turning chisel\n- Drill", - "references": "## YouTube\n\n- [Beginners' Guide to Melting HDPE](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-igxhoGEQFU)\n- [How FREE Plastic Waste Can Be Turned into Pens](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VNiHWN1Oc5M)\n- [Making Pen Blanks from HDPE](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nsPvmZN3mBo)\n- [DIY Plastic Recycling Machines](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q8ZyUsKWpD4)\n\n## Articles/Tutorials\n\n- [Make a Pen from HDPE#2 Plastic](https://www.instructables.com/Make-a-YWCA-Pen-From-Recycled-HDPE2-Plastic-Laundr/)\n- [Waste Pen Process Explained](https://woodengiftsandmore.shop/about-us/blog/waste-pen/)\n- [HDPE Pen and Pencil Set Tutorial](https://www.instructables.com/HDPE-Recycled-Pen-and-Pencil-Set/)\n- [Pen Blanks Creation Guide](https://www.instructables.com/Pen-Blanks-1/)\n- [Quality Assessment of Recycled Pens](https://www.johnshenstationery.com/How-to-judge-the-quality-of-recycled-plastic-pens.html)\n\n## Open Source Designs\n\n- [[filtered] Project](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q8ZyUsKWpD4)\n\n## Technical Guidelines\n\n- [APR HDPE Rigid Design Guide](https://plasticsrecycling.org/apr-design-hub/apr-design-guide/hdpe-rigid-colored/)", - "brief": "Learn how to craft a pen from repurposed HDPE plastic, turning surplus materials into colorful, eco-friendly writing tools that help reduce waste." + "content": "This How-to aims to be the ultimate guide to HDPE and then teach you how to make a recycled pen out of it.\n\nThe recycled plastic pen is a nifty writing tool with an eco-twist. \nCrafted from repurposed plastic materials, it's a colorful way to jot down your thoughts while giving a second chance to discarded plastics. It's a small but impactful step toward a greener planet, proving that even everyday items can make a big difference.\n\n\nUser Location: Bournemouth, United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland (the)\n\nFor the plastic melting:\n- Flat plate panini press\n- Teflon baking sheets\n- Silicone oven mitts\n- Weighing scales -> optional, but good to have\n\nFor the mould making:\n- Drill\n- Saw\n\nFor the pen making\n- Clamps\n- Lathe\n- Turning chisel\n- Drill\n\nThe goal of this video is to teach you how to work with HDPE and then teach you how to make your recycled pen.\n\nThe video is divided in 3 chapters:\n1. Materials\n2. Equipment\n3. Making the pen\n\nCreating a recycled plastic pen isn't just about scribbles – it's a mini victory for the environment! These pens give a new life to old plastics, helping to cut down on waste. \nSo, when you jot down your next brilliant idea with one of these pens, you're not just putting ink on paper – you're also giving a high-five to the planet! 🌍🖊️" } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/xl-long-bed-3d-printer-conversion/README.md b/howtos/xl-long-bed-3d-printer-conversion/README.md index fadaa39f0..1269206b5 100644 --- a/howtos/xl-long-bed-3d-printer-conversion/README.md +++ b/howtos/xl-long-bed-3d-printer-conversion/README.md @@ -1,64 +1,70 @@ --- title: XL Long bed 3D-printer conversion slug: xl-long-bed-3d-printer-conversion -description: This guide demonstrates fitting a longer bed on a flashable 3D printer. We used such a bed to print wind turbine blades. +description: This how-to will show how to fit a longer bed on any flashable 3D-printer. We used the long bed ourselves to print windturbine blades. tags: ["extrusion"] category: Guides difficulty: Hard time: < 1 week -keywords: 3D printer, longer bed modification, wind turbine blade printing, Anycubic I3 Mega S, printer firmware upgrade, Y-axis movement system, heated bed setup, NiCr heating wire, 3D printing large objects, print bed leveling +keywords: location: Antwerpen, Belgium --- # XL Long bed 3D-printer conversion ![XL Long bed 3D-printer conversion](197584567_823306731633606_2145684291652980688_n_3-181f6f3b22b.png) -This guide demonstrates fitting a longer bed on a flashable 3D printer. We used such a bed to print wind turbine blades. +This how-to will show how to fit a longer bed on any flashable 3D-printer. We used the long bed ourselves to print windturbine blades. User Location: Antwerpen, Belgium ## Steps ### Step 1: Gather all required parts -### Required Materials +Necessary for this build: -**Basics:** -- A 3D printer with firmware modification capability (e.g., Anycubic I3 Mega S). -- A sturdy table, at least 6.5ft x 2.6ft (2m x 80cm). +Basics: +- a basic 3D-printer that allows modifying the firmware (we use an Anycubic I3 Mega S) +- a rigid table of 2m * 80cm or bigger to put everything on + +Movement system (Y-axis): +- 2 * SBR25 1500mm rails +- 4 * SBR25UU bearings + bearing holders +- 2,5m glassfiber belt for 3D-printers (often called GT2 belt). 2mm pitch. + +The heated bed: +- 5 aluminum profiles of 40x15mm +- NiCr heating wire of 60 ohm 3A, 5 or 10m length +- glassfiber sleeving to insulate the heating wire (resistant to 150 degrees Celsius or more). +- 16 * 8mm threaded rods of 5cm length + 32 nuts for both sides +- (recommended) glassfiber cloth (50 x 50cm) + + +- basic tools: a drill, screws, bolts and nuts -**Y-Axis Movement System:** -- 2 SBR25 rails, each 4.9ft (1500mm). -- 4 SBR25UU bearings with holders. -- 8.2ft (2.5m) GT2 fiberglass belt with 0.08in (2mm) pitch. -**Heated Bed:** -- 5 aluminum profiles, each 1.6in x 0.6in (40mm x 15mm). -- NiCr heating wire, 60 ohms, 3A, in 16 or 33ft (5m or 10m) lengths. -- Fiberglass sleeving for insulation, heat resistant up to 302°F (150°C). -- 16 threaded rods, 0.3in x 2in (8mm x 5cm), with 32 nuts. -- Optional: Fiberglass cloth, 1.6ft x 1.6ft (50cm x 50cm). -**Tools:** -- Basic tools including a drill, screws, bolts, and nuts. ![sbr25-18106554cb8.jpg](./sbr25-18106554cb8.jpg) ### Step 2: Assemble the bed -1. Weld the aluminum profiles to create a platform measuring 3 feet 3 inches by 8 inches (1m by 20cm), ensuring connections are at the ends to prevent distortion. +1. Weld the aluminium profiles so they are connected and make a platform of 1m * 20cm. Preferabbly this happens on the ends only so they are not skewed or distorted by the welding process. -2. Drill holes for the bearing holders, spaced 3 feet 3 inches (1m) apart. +2. Drill holes for the bearing holders. They should be 1m apart. -3. Install the bearings approximately 2 inches (5cm) from the bed. +3. Install the bearings approximately 5cm from the bed -4. Slide the fiberglass sleeve over the NiCr heating wire and thread it through the aluminum bed's hollow spaces. +4. Put the glassfiber sleeve over the NiCr heating wire and pull it through the hollow spaces of the aluminum bed -5. Optionally, place fiberglass cloth at the end of each aluminum profile to retain air. +5. (Recommended) Put some glassfiber cloth at the end of each alumium profile so the air stays inside ![IMG_20210324_173500_bed-1810657afe3.jpg](./IMG_20210324_173500_bed-1810657afe3.jpg) ### Step 3: Make the base: rails on a sturdy table! -Ensure the table is stable and immobile to maintain print quality. Clean the rails and apply PTFE oil, as they may gather dust during installation. Review the technical drawing for assembly details before proceeding. +Make sure the table is flat and can't bend or move, because this will have a great impact on the printability. +Probably the rails will become dusty because of the installation process, so make sure to clean them and apply some TPFE-oil before moving to the next step. + +Before proceeding to the next step, check out the technical drawing on how the rest of the parts should be set-up. ![IMG_20210324_173500-18106582b59.jpg](./IMG_20210324_173500-18106582b59.jpg) @@ -68,16 +74,18 @@ Ensure the table is stable and immobile to maintain print quality. Clean the rai ### Step 4: Assembling of the main parts -1. Drill holes for mounting the Y-axis. Use an adapter bracket made from leftover square aluminum for the pipe, as the screws for the stepper are small. -2. Position the stepper and pulley approximately 4.1 feet (1.25 meters) apart. -3. Acquire sturdy L-hooks made from steel, stainless steel, or aluminum. Drill holes to fit the printer's U-frame. This setup allows a printable height of 10.2 inches (26 centimeters), which is about 2.4 inches (6 centimeters) more than usual. -4. Extend the wire of the Y-stepper as needed. Use leftover 1.5mm² (approximately 0.0023 square inches) electrical cable, as a NEMA17 stepper can draw up to 2 amps. -5. Attach the U-frame with L-hooks to the table and adjust the endstops for the Z-axis to utilize the increased height. -6. If necessary, drill holes in the table to run the wires for the endstops and steppers, reusing original cables except for the Y-axis. +1. Drill holes for the mounting of the Y-axis. The screws that go into the stepper are very small so we made an adapter bracket with some left-over square aluminum bed for the pipe. +2. Mount both the stepper and pulley so they are approximately 1,25m apart +3. Get some sturdy L-hooks in steel, rvs or aluminium and drill some holes that fit the U-frame of your printer. By choosing these high enough we managed to get to a printable height of 26cm. 6 cm higher than normal! +4. Increase the length of the wire of the Y-stepper as much as necessary. We used some scrap 1,5mm² electricitycable because NEMA17 stepper can pull up to 2A current. +5. Mount the U-frame witl the L-hooks on the table and lower the endstops for the z-axis to benefit from the additional height +6. (Not in the video) Drill some holes to put the wires of the endstops and steppers through the table. In this way we managed to use all the original cables except for the Y-axis. + ### Step 5: Make a heated chamber -Create a cover for the print area using materials like plastic foil to retain heat, depending on the room temperature. Cardboard or leftover Styropur (a BASF product) can also be effective as sturdy options that do not require additional framing. +Use your creativity to make a cover over the printspace. Plastic foil can already be enough to trap the warm air inside, depending on the room temperature. We also had good results with cardboard and left-over BASF Styropur, which is sturdy enough to not need a frame. + ![285933284_595402385015141_3665024332632683864_n-181347e9f83.jpg](./285933284_595402385015141_3665024332632683864_n-181347e9f83.jpg) @@ -90,43 +98,45 @@ Create a cover for the print area using materials like plastic foil to retain he ### Step 6: Download Marlin 1.4.6 and modify the bed size. -An adapted version for the Anycubic I3 Mega S is available [here](https://github.com/davidramiro/Marlin-Ai3M). Later versions had issues with the manual bed leveling system, which is crucial for a properly aligned bed. +You can find an adapted version specially for the Anycubic I3 Mega S here: github.com: github.com/davidramiro/Marlin-Ai3M +Higher versions had a bugged manual bed leveling system, which we'll really need because it's easy to not have the bed exactly parallel to the table. -To proceed, install VSCode and open the code. Modify the following settings in configuration.h to accommodate the printer's larger bed and increased build volume: +Install VSCode and open the code there. Change the following properties in configuration.h to let the printer know it has a bigger bed and higher build envelope: +a. Y_BED_SIZE: 999 +b. MAX_Z_HEIGHT: 260 -- Y_BED_SIZE: 999 -- MAX_Z_HEIGHT: 260 ![vscode1-181346ef6df.png](./vscode1-181346ef6df.png) ### Step 7: Flash the modified firmware -Connect your printer's mainboard via USB. VScode will automatically detect the correct serial port. Click the small arrow in the bottom left corner to start uploading. +Connect your printer mainboard with USB. VScode will automatically connect to the right serial port. +Press the small arrow in the bottom left corner to start the uploading process. ![vscode-181065d95c4.png](./vscode-181065d95c4.png) ### Step 8: Level the bed 'manually' -### Printer Bed Leveling Instructions +Ok, this is not the 'manually' as you used to know, turning the 4 knobs on the bottom of the printbed. Instead we will run the G29 S1 command, followed by G29 S2 until it finishes. The printer will calculate a grid of 5x5 points over the printbed and move to each position, where you'll be able to lower or heighten the nozzle on the z-axis. +(The number of points in the grid can easily be changed in the firmware) -Instead of manually adjusting the four knobs on the print bed, execute the G29 S1 command followed by G29 S2. The printer will calculate a 5x5 grid (can be modified in firmware) across the print bed, allowing you to adjust the nozzle height on the z-axis at each position. +More on the G29 command for Marlin: marlinfw.org: marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G029-mbl.html -For detailed information on the G29 command in Marlin firmware, visit [Marlin Documentation](https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G029-mbl.html). - -Once adjustments for all 25 points are complete, the printer will beep and reset the print head to its 0,0 position. Ensure you save the grid using the M500 command. Before each print, use M420 S1 to enable mesh-bed-leveling and load the adjusted z-coordinates. Consider adding this command to your slicer's custom g-code section to automate the process for every print. +After you finished all 25 points, the printer will make a bleep sound and return the printhead to its 0,0 position. Be sure to save the grid with the M500-command. Also, before each print you should call M420 S1 to enable mesh-bed-leveling and fetch the modified z-coordinates. We can recommened to put this in the custom g-code section of your slicer to be sure to have it called before each print. ![g29-1813475c01c.png](./g29-1813475c01c.png) ### Step 9: Test before you print big! -Printing large objects can present challenges, such as adhesion issues. Larger prints are prone to warping and detaching from the printing bed. We achieved good adhesion results using rPET, PETG, and PLA combined with Formfutur's Magigoo adhesive. PET(G) adheres particularly well, and we apply a first layer of PET(G) when printing with ABS. +Printing big might take some time to get everything right. For example there might be some adhesion problems arising while printing. The bigger the object gets, the more power it has to warp and pull of off the bed. +We had good result printing rPET, PETG and PLA with Formfutur's Magigoo as an adhesive. Certainly PET(G) sticks very well and we use a first layer of PET(G) to print ABS. ### Step 10: Profit -This extended bed modification enables the printing of wind turbine blades, allowing you to construct your own wind turbines. +This long bed conversion for example permits the printing of windturbine blades which allows yo uto build your own windturbines. Check our other tutorial to know more about it! ![284170163_326718269616463_2564227729431909493_n-1810a67e07f.jpg](./284170163_326718269616463_2564227729431909493_n-1810a67e07f.jpg) @@ -135,28 +145,4 @@ This extended bed modification enables the printing of wind turbine blades, allo ![284410269_538285404469005_5504249321824877867_n (1)-181347fd79f.jpg](./284410269_538285404469005_5504249321824877867_n_1-181347fd79f.jpg) ## Resources -### Tools - -- Basic tools (drill, screws, bolts, nuts) - -### Software - -- [VSCode](https://code.visualstudio.com/) -- [Marlin firmware for Anycubic I3 Mega S](https://github.com/davidramiro/Marlin-Ai3M) -- [Marlin G29 Command Documentation](https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G029-mbl.html) - -### Hardware - -- 3D printer with firmware mod capability (e.g., [Anycubic I3 Mega S](https://github.com/davidramiro/Marlin-Ai3M)) -- Sturdy table (≥6.5ft × 2.6ft / 2m × 80cm) -- Y-axis: SBR25 rails (2×4.9ft/1500mm), SBR25UU bearings (4), GT2 belt (8.2ft/2.5m) -- Heated bed: Aluminum profiles (5×1.6in/40mm), NiCr wire (60Ω, 5m/10m), fiberglass sleeving -- Optional: Fiberglass cloth (1.6ft²/50cm²) -## References -## Articles - -- [Marlin Documentation](https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G029-mbl.html) - -## Opensource Designs - -- [Marlin-Ai3M](https://github.com/davidramiro/Marlin-Ai3M) \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/xl-long-bed-3d-printer-conversion/config.json b/howtos/xl-long-bed-3d-printer-conversion/config.json index cf7b75c1f..c97825fed 100644 --- a/howtos/xl-long-bed-3d-printer-conversion/config.json +++ b/howtos/xl-long-bed-3d-printer-conversion/config.json @@ -1,5 +1,5 @@ { - "description": "This guide demonstrates fitting a longer bed on a flashable 3D printer. We used such a bed to print wind turbine blades.", + "description": "This how-to will show how to fit a longer bed on any flashable 3D-printer. We used the long bed ourselves to print windturbine blades.", "total_views": 408, "_contentModifiedTimestamp": "2023-12-28T10:54:36.574Z", "moderation": "accepted", @@ -31,12 +31,12 @@ } ], "title": "Gather all required parts", - "text": "### Required Materials\n\n**Basics:**\n- A 3D printer with firmware modification capability (e.g., Anycubic I3 Mega S).\n- A sturdy table, at least 6.5ft x 2.6ft (2m x 80cm).\n\n**Y-Axis Movement System:**\n- 2 SBR25 rails, each 4.9ft (1500mm).\n- 4 SBR25UU bearings with holders.\n- 8.2ft (2.5m) GT2 fiberglass belt with 0.08in (2mm) pitch.\n\n**Heated Bed:**\n- 5 aluminum profiles, each 1.6in x 0.6in (40mm x 15mm).\n- NiCr heating wire, 60 ohms, 3A, in 16 or 33ft (5m or 10m) lengths.\n- Fiberglass sleeving for insulation, heat resistant up to 302°F (150°C).\n- 16 threaded rods, 0.3in x 2in (8mm x 5cm), with 32 nuts.\n- Optional: Fiberglass cloth, 1.6ft x 1.6ft (50cm x 50cm).\n\n**Tools:**\n- Basic tools including a drill, screws, bolts, and nuts." + "text": "Necessary for this build:\n\nBasics:\n- a basic 3D-printer that allows modifying the firmware (we use an Anycubic I3 Mega S)\n- a rigid table of 2m * 80cm or bigger to put everything on\n\nMovement system (Y-axis):\n- 2 * SBR25 1500mm rails \n- 4 * SBR25UU bearings + bearing holders \n- 2,5m glassfiber belt for 3D-printers (often called GT2 belt). 2mm pitch.\n\nThe heated bed:\n- 5 aluminum profiles of 40x15mm\n- NiCr heating wire of 60 ohm 3A, 5 or 10m length\n- glassfiber sleeving to insulate the heating wire (resistant to 150 degrees Celsius or more).\n- 16 * 8mm threaded rods of 5cm length + 32 nuts for both sides\n- (recommended) glassfiber cloth (50 x 50cm)\n\n\n- basic tools: a drill, screws, bolts and nuts\n\n\n" }, { "_animationKey": "unique2", "title": "Assemble the bed", - "text": "1. Weld the aluminum profiles to create a platform measuring 3 feet 3 inches by 8 inches (1m by 20cm), ensuring connections are at the ends to prevent distortion.\n\n2. Drill holes for the bearing holders, spaced 3 feet 3 inches (1m) apart.\n\n3. Install the bearings approximately 2 inches (5cm) from the bed.\n\n4. Slide the fiberglass sleeve over the NiCr heating wire and thread it through the aluminum bed's hollow spaces.\n\n5. Optionally, place fiberglass cloth at the end of each aluminum profile to retain air.", + "text": "1. Weld the aluminium profiles so they are connected and make a platform of 1m * 20cm. Preferabbly this happens on the ends only so they are not skewed or distorted by the welding process. \n\n2. Drill holes for the bearing holders. They should be 1m apart.\n\n3. Install the bearings approximately 5cm from the bed\n\n4. Put the glassfiber sleeve over the NiCr heating wire and pull it through the hollow spaces of the aluminum bed\n\n5. (Recommended) Put some glassfiber cloth at the end of each alumium profile so the air stays inside", "images": [ { "downloadUrl": "https://firebasestorage.googleapis.com/v0/b/onearmyworld.appspot.com/o/uploads%2Fhowtos%2FEmSgubayMg8PpWDaDM14%2FIMG_20210324_173500_bed-1810657afe3.jpg?alt=media&token=e0714787-5ad8-456f-9050-6b5b35453bfa", @@ -81,14 +81,14 @@ ], "_animationKey": "unique3", "title": "Make the base: rails on a sturdy table!", - "text": "Ensure the table is stable and immobile to maintain print quality. Clean the rails and apply PTFE oil, as they may gather dust during installation. Review the technical drawing for assembly details before proceeding." + "text": "Make sure the table is flat and can't bend or move, because this will have a great impact on the printability.\nProbably the rails will become dusty because of the installation process, so make sure to clean them and apply some TPFE-oil before moving to the next step.\n\nBefore proceeding to the next step, check out the technical drawing on how the rest of the parts should be set-up." }, { "_animationKey": "uniquex0ewij", "videoUrl": "https://youtu.be/QhznAQ6W1Wg", "images": [], "title": "Assembling of the main parts", - "text": "1. Drill holes for mounting the Y-axis. Use an adapter bracket made from leftover square aluminum for the pipe, as the screws for the stepper are small.\n2. Position the stepper and pulley approximately 4.1 feet (1.25 meters) apart.\n3. Acquire sturdy L-hooks made from steel, stainless steel, or aluminum. Drill holes to fit the printer's U-frame. This setup allows a printable height of 10.2 inches (26 centimeters), which is about 2.4 inches (6 centimeters) more than usual.\n4. Extend the wire of the Y-stepper as needed. Use leftover 1.5mm² (approximately 0.0023 square inches) electrical cable, as a NEMA17 stepper can draw up to 2 amps.\n5. Attach the U-frame with L-hooks to the table and adjust the endstops for the Z-axis to utilize the increased height.\n6. If necessary, drill holes in the table to run the wires for the endstops and steppers, reusing original cables except for the Y-axis." + "text": "1.\tDrill holes for the mounting of the Y-axis. The screws that go into the stepper are very small so we made an adapter bracket with some left-over square aluminum bed for the pipe.\n2.\tMount both the stepper and pulley so they are approximately 1,25m apart\n3.\tGet some sturdy L-hooks in steel, rvs or aluminium and drill some holes that fit the U-frame of your printer. By choosing these high enough we managed to get to a printable height of 26cm. 6 cm higher than normal!\n4.\tIncrease the length of the wire of the Y-stepper as much as necessary. We used some scrap 1,5mm² electricitycable because NEMA17 stepper can pull up to 2A current.\n5.\tMount the U-frame witl the L-hooks on the table and lower the endstops for the z-axis to benefit from the additional height\n6.\t(Not in the video) Drill some holes to put the wires of the endstops and steppers through the table. In this way we managed to use all the original cables except for the Y-axis.\n" }, { "_animationKey": "uniquetakk5", @@ -131,7 +131,7 @@ "alt": "285622700_5783098858366985_4106654552058906457_n-181347f02aa.jpg" } ], - "text": "Create a cover for the print area using materials like plastic foil to retain heat, depending on the room temperature. Cardboard or leftover Styropur (a BASF product) can also be effective as sturdy options that do not require additional framing." + "text": "Use your creativity to make a cover over the printspace. Plastic foil can already be enough to trap the warm air inside, depending on the room temperature. We also had good results with cardboard and left-over BASF Styropur, which is sturdy enough to not need a frame.\n" }, { "images": [ @@ -148,12 +148,12 @@ "alt": "vscode1-181346ef6df.png" } ], - "text": "An adapted version for the Anycubic I3 Mega S is available [here](https://github.com/davidramiro/Marlin-Ai3M). Later versions had issues with the manual bed leveling system, which is crucial for a properly aligned bed.\n\nTo proceed, install VSCode and open the code. Modify the following settings in configuration.h to accommodate the printer's larger bed and increased build volume:\n\n- Y_BED_SIZE: 999\n- MAX_Z_HEIGHT: 260", + "text": "You can find an adapted version specially for the Anycubic I3 Mega S here: github.com: github.com/davidramiro/Marlin-Ai3M\nHigher versions had a bugged manual bed leveling system, which we'll really need because it's easy to not have the bed exactly parallel to the table.\n\nInstall VSCode and open the code there. Change the following properties in configuration.h to let the printer know it has a bigger bed and higher build envelope:\na.\tY_BED_SIZE: 999\nb.\tMAX_Z_HEIGHT: 260\n", "_animationKey": "uniqueyob5aq", "title": "Download Marlin 1.4.6 and modify the bed size." }, { - "text": "Connect your printer's mainboard via USB. VScode will automatically detect the correct serial port. Click the small arrow in the bottom left corner to start uploading.", + "text": "Connect your printer mainboard with USB. VScode will automatically connect to the right serial port. \nPress the small arrow in the bottom left corner to start the uploading process.", "_animationKey": "uniquetrsmh8", "images": [ { @@ -188,18 +188,18 @@ "alt": "g29-1813475c01c.png" } ], - "text": "### Printer Bed Leveling Instructions\n\nInstead of manually adjusting the four knobs on the print bed, execute the G29 S1 command followed by G29 S2. The printer will calculate a 5x5 grid (can be modified in firmware) across the print bed, allowing you to adjust the nozzle height on the z-axis at each position.\n\nFor detailed information on the G29 command in Marlin firmware, visit [Marlin Documentation](https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G029-mbl.html).\n\nOnce adjustments for all 25 points are complete, the printer will beep and reset the print head to its 0,0 position. Ensure you save the grid using the M500 command. Before each print, use M420 S1 to enable mesh-bed-leveling and load the adjusted z-coordinates. Consider adding this command to your slicer's custom g-code section to automate the process for every print." + "text": "Ok, this is not the 'manually' as you used to know, turning the 4 knobs on the bottom of the printbed. Instead we will run the G29 S1 command, followed by G29 S2 until it finishes. The printer will calculate a grid of 5x5 points over the printbed and move to each position, where you'll be able to lower or heighten the nozzle on the z-axis. \n(The number of points in the grid can easily be changed in the firmware)\n\nMore on the G29 command for Marlin: marlinfw.org: marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G029-mbl.html\n\nAfter you finished all 25 points, the printer will make a bleep sound and return the printhead to its 0,0 position. Be sure to save the grid with the M500-command. Also, before each print you should call M420 S1 to enable mesh-bed-leveling and fetch the modified z-coordinates. We can recommened to put this in the custom g-code section of your slicer to be sure to have it called before each print." }, { "_animationKey": "uniquek0ycwk", "videoUrl": "https://youtu.be/BUbNh10UqX0", "title": "Test before you print big!", - "text": "Printing large objects can present challenges, such as adhesion issues. Larger prints are prone to warping and detaching from the printing bed. We achieved good adhesion results using rPET, PETG, and PLA combined with Formfutur's Magigoo adhesive. PET(G) adheres particularly well, and we apply a first layer of PET(G) when printing with ABS.", + "text": "Printing big might take some time to get everything right. For example there might be some adhesion problems arising while printing. The bigger the object gets, the more power it has to warp and pull of off the bed. \nWe had good result printing rPET, PETG and PLA with Formfutur's Magigoo as an adhesive. Certainly PET(G) sticks very well and we use a first layer of PET(G) to print ABS. ", "images": [] }, { "_animationKey": "uniqueznezfr", - "text": "This extended bed modification enables the printing of wind turbine blades, allowing you to construct your own wind turbines. ", + "text": "This long bed conversion for example permits the printing of windturbine blades which allows yo uto build your own windturbines. Check our other tutorial to know more about it!", "images": [ { "fullPath": "uploads/howtos/EmSgubayMg8PpWDaDM14/284170163_326718269616463_2564227729431909493_n-1810a67e07f.jpg", @@ -445,9 +445,5 @@ "urls": [] } }, - "content": "This guide demonstrates fitting a longer bed on a flashable 3D printer. We used such a bed to print wind turbine blades.\n\n\nUser Location: Antwerpen, Belgium\n\n### Required Materials\n\n**Basics:**\n- A 3D printer with firmware modification capability (e.g., Anycubic I3 Mega S).\n- A sturdy table, at least 6.5ft x 2.6ft (2m x 80cm).\n\n**Y-Axis Movement System:**\n- 2 SBR25 rails, each 4.9ft (1500mm).\n- 4 SBR25UU bearings with holders.\n- 8.2ft (2.5m) GT2 fiberglass belt with 0.08in (2mm) pitch.\n\n**Heated Bed:**\n- 5 aluminum profiles, each 1.6in x 0.6in (40mm x 15mm).\n- NiCr heating wire, 60 ohms, 3A, in 16 or 33ft (5m or 10m) lengths.\n- Fiberglass sleeving for insulation, heat resistant up to 302°F (150°C).\n- 16 threaded rods, 0.3in x 2in (8mm x 5cm), with 32 nuts.\n- Optional: Fiberglass cloth, 1.6ft x 1.6ft (50cm x 50cm).\n\n**Tools:**\n- Basic tools including a drill, screws, bolts, and nuts.\n\n1. Weld the aluminum profiles to create a platform measuring 3 feet 3 inches by 8 inches (1m by 20cm), ensuring connections are at the ends to prevent distortion.\n\n2. Drill holes for the bearing holders, spaced 3 feet 3 inches (1m) apart.\n\n3. Install the bearings approximately 2 inches (5cm) from the bed.\n\n4. Slide the fiberglass sleeve over the NiCr heating wire and thread it through the aluminum bed's hollow spaces.\n\n5. Optionally, place fiberglass cloth at the end of each aluminum profile to retain air.\n\nEnsure the table is stable and immobile to maintain print quality. Clean the rails and apply PTFE oil, as they may gather dust during installation. Review the technical drawing for assembly details before proceeding.\n\n1. Drill holes for mounting the Y-axis. Use an adapter bracket made from leftover square aluminum for the pipe, as the screws for the stepper are small.\n2. Position the stepper and pulley approximately 4.1 feet (1.25 meters) apart.\n3. Acquire sturdy L-hooks made from steel, stainless steel, or aluminum. Drill holes to fit the printer's U-frame. This setup allows a printable height of 10.2 inches (26 centimeters), which is about 2.4 inches (6 centimeters) more than usual.\n4. Extend the wire of the Y-stepper as needed. Use leftover 1.5mm² (approximately 0.0023 square inches) electrical cable, as a NEMA17 stepper can draw up to 2 amps.\n5. Attach the U-frame with L-hooks to the table and adjust the endstops for the Z-axis to utilize the increased height.\n6. If necessary, drill holes in the table to run the wires for the endstops and steppers, reusing original cables except for the Y-axis.\n\nCreate a cover for the print area using materials like plastic foil to retain heat, depending on the room temperature. Cardboard or leftover Styropur (a BASF product) can also be effective as sturdy options that do not require additional framing.\n\nAn adapted version for the Anycubic I3 Mega S is available [here](https://github.com/davidramiro/Marlin-Ai3M). Later versions had issues with the manual bed leveling system, which is crucial for a properly aligned bed.\n\nTo proceed, install VSCode and open the code. Modify the following settings in configuration.h to accommodate the printer's larger bed and increased build volume:\n\n- Y_BED_SIZE: 999\n- MAX_Z_HEIGHT: 260\n\nConnect your printer's mainboard via USB. VScode will automatically detect the correct serial port. Click the small arrow in the bottom left corner to start uploading.\n\n### Printer Bed Leveling Instructions\n\nInstead of manually adjusting the four knobs on the print bed, execute the G29 S1 command followed by G29 S2. The printer will calculate a 5x5 grid (can be modified in firmware) across the print bed, allowing you to adjust the nozzle height on the z-axis at each position.\n\nFor detailed information on the G29 command in Marlin firmware, visit [Marlin Documentation](https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G029-mbl.html).\n\nOnce adjustments for all 25 points are complete, the printer will beep and reset the print head to its 0,0 position. Ensure you save the grid using the M500 command. Before each print, use M420 S1 to enable mesh-bed-leveling and load the adjusted z-coordinates. Consider adding this command to your slicer's custom g-code section to automate the process for every print.\n\nPrinting large objects can present challenges, such as adhesion issues. Larger prints are prone to warping and detaching from the printing bed. We achieved good adhesion results using rPET, PETG, and PLA combined with Formfutur's Magigoo adhesive. PET(G) adheres particularly well, and we apply a first layer of PET(G) when printing with ABS.\n\nThis extended bed modification enables the printing of wind turbine blades, allowing you to construct your own wind turbines. ", - "keywords": "3D printer, longer bed modification, wind turbine blade printing, Anycubic I3 Mega S, printer firmware upgrade, Y-axis movement system, heated bed setup, NiCr heating wire, 3D printing large objects, print bed leveling", - "resources": "### Tools\n\n- Basic tools (drill, screws, bolts, nuts)\n\n### Software\n\n- [VSCode](https://code.visualstudio.com/)\n- [Marlin firmware for Anycubic I3 Mega S](https://github.com/davidramiro/Marlin-Ai3M)\n- [Marlin G29 Command Documentation](https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G029-mbl.html)\n\n### Hardware\n\n- 3D printer with firmware mod capability (e.g., [Anycubic I3 Mega S](https://github.com/davidramiro/Marlin-Ai3M))\n- Sturdy table (≥6.5ft × 2.6ft / 2m × 80cm)\n- Y-axis: SBR25 rails (2×4.9ft/1500mm), SBR25UU bearings (4), GT2 belt (8.2ft/2.5m)\n- Heated bed: Aluminum profiles (5×1.6in/40mm), NiCr wire (60Ω, 5m/10m), fiberglass sleeving\n- Optional: Fiberglass cloth (1.6ft²/50cm²)", - "references": "## Articles\n\n- [Marlin Documentation](https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G029-mbl.html)\n\n## Opensource Designs\n\n- [Marlin-Ai3M](https://github.com/davidramiro/Marlin-Ai3M)", - "brief": "Modify your 3D printer to fit a larger bed for printing wind turbine blades, complete with easy leveling tips and adhesion advice for flawless prints." + "content": "This how-to will show how to fit a longer bed on any flashable 3D-printer. We used the long bed ourselves to print windturbine blades.\n\n\nUser Location: Antwerpen, Belgium\n\nNecessary for this build:\n\nBasics:\n- a basic 3D-printer that allows modifying the firmware (we use an Anycubic I3 Mega S)\n- a rigid table of 2m * 80cm or bigger to put everything on\n\nMovement system (Y-axis):\n- 2 * SBR25 1500mm rails \n- 4 * SBR25UU bearings + bearing holders \n- 2,5m glassfiber belt for 3D-printers (often called GT2 belt). 2mm pitch.\n\nThe heated bed:\n- 5 aluminum profiles of 40x15mm\n- NiCr heating wire of 60 ohm 3A, 5 or 10m length\n- glassfiber sleeving to insulate the heating wire (resistant to 150 degrees Celsius or more).\n- 16 * 8mm threaded rods of 5cm length + 32 nuts for both sides\n- (recommended) glassfiber cloth (50 x 50cm)\n\n\n- basic tools: a drill, screws, bolts and nuts\n\n\n\n\n1. Weld the aluminium profiles so they are connected and make a platform of 1m * 20cm. Preferabbly this happens on the ends only so they are not skewed or distorted by the welding process. \n\n2. Drill holes for the bearing holders. They should be 1m apart.\n\n3. Install the bearings approximately 5cm from the bed\n\n4. Put the glassfiber sleeve over the NiCr heating wire and pull it through the hollow spaces of the aluminum bed\n\n5. (Recommended) Put some glassfiber cloth at the end of each alumium profile so the air stays inside\n\nMake sure the table is flat and can't bend or move, because this will have a great impact on the printability.\nProbably the rails will become dusty because of the installation process, so make sure to clean them and apply some TPFE-oil before moving to the next step.\n\nBefore proceeding to the next step, check out the technical drawing on how the rest of the parts should be set-up.\n\n1.\tDrill holes for the mounting of the Y-axis. The screws that go into the stepper are very small so we made an adapter bracket with some left-over square aluminum bed for the pipe.\n2.\tMount both the stepper and pulley so they are approximately 1,25m apart\n3.\tGet some sturdy L-hooks in steel, rvs or aluminium and drill some holes that fit the U-frame of your printer. By choosing these high enough we managed to get to a printable height of 26cm. 6 cm higher than normal!\n4.\tIncrease the length of the wire of the Y-stepper as much as necessary. We used some scrap 1,5mm² electricitycable because NEMA17 stepper can pull up to 2A current.\n5.\tMount the U-frame witl the L-hooks on the table and lower the endstops for the z-axis to benefit from the additional height\n6.\t(Not in the video) Drill some holes to put the wires of the endstops and steppers through the table. In this way we managed to use all the original cables except for the Y-axis.\n\n\nUse your creativity to make a cover over the printspace. Plastic foil can already be enough to trap the warm air inside, depending on the room temperature. We also had good results with cardboard and left-over BASF Styropur, which is sturdy enough to not need a frame.\n\n\nYou can find an adapted version specially for the Anycubic I3 Mega S here: github.com: github.com/davidramiro/Marlin-Ai3M\nHigher versions had a bugged manual bed leveling system, which we'll really need because it's easy to not have the bed exactly parallel to the table.\n\nInstall VSCode and open the code there. Change the following properties in configuration.h to let the printer know it has a bigger bed and higher build envelope:\na.\tY_BED_SIZE: 999\nb.\tMAX_Z_HEIGHT: 260\n\n\nConnect your printer mainboard with USB. VScode will automatically connect to the right serial port. \nPress the small arrow in the bottom left corner to start the uploading process.\n\nOk, this is not the 'manually' as you used to know, turning the 4 knobs on the bottom of the printbed. Instead we will run the G29 S1 command, followed by G29 S2 until it finishes. The printer will calculate a grid of 5x5 points over the printbed and move to each position, where you'll be able to lower or heighten the nozzle on the z-axis. \n(The number of points in the grid can easily be changed in the firmware)\n\nMore on the G29 command for Marlin: marlinfw.org: marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G029-mbl.html\n\nAfter you finished all 25 points, the printer will make a bleep sound and return the printhead to its 0,0 position. Be sure to save the grid with the M500-command. Also, before each print you should call M420 S1 to enable mesh-bed-leveling and fetch the modified z-coordinates. We can recommened to put this in the custom g-code section of your slicer to be sure to have it called before each print.\n\nPrinting big might take some time to get everything right. For example there might be some adhesion problems arising while printing. The bigger the object gets, the more power it has to warp and pull of off the bed. \nWe had good result printing rPET, PETG and PLA with Formfutur's Magigoo as an adhesive. Certainly PET(G) sticks very well and we use a first layer of PET(G) to print ABS. \n\nThis long bed conversion for example permits the printing of windturbine blades which allows yo uto build your own windturbines. Check our other tutorial to know more about it!" } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/zero-plastic-australias-sheet-machine/README.md b/howtos/zero-plastic-australias-sheet-machine/README.md index 303db0c40..e2e167d59 100644 --- a/howtos/zero-plastic-australias-sheet-machine/README.md +++ b/howtos/zero-plastic-australias-sheet-machine/README.md @@ -1,37 +1,35 @@ --- title: Zero Plastic Australia's Sheet Machine slug: zero-plastic-australias-sheet-machine -description: ### Creating Plastic Sheets (12 in x 10 in x 0.4 in) +description: A Simple, Cheap and Easy way to make sheets of recycled plastic (30cm x 25cm x 1cm) -Sharing this method may benefit others. Please share this information and acknowledge Zero Plastics Australia if you produce work from these sheets. +After having a Heart attack i realised that if i don't share this knowledge it wont help anyone, all i ask is that you help spread the word and to give Zero Plastics Australia a like and to #zeroplasticsaustralia with any work you make from these sheets. tags: ["research","HDPE","starterkit","sheetpress"] category: Guides difficulty: Medium time: < 1 week -keywords: plastic sheet making, HDPE plastic sheets, DIY plastic sheets, heat press plastic sheets, aluminum mold for plastic, Ballarat plastic recycling, Zero Plastics Australia, homemade plastic sheets, plastic recycling method, eco-friendly plastic production +keywords: location: Ballarat, Australia --- # Zero Plastic Australia's Sheet Machine ![Zero Plastic Australia's Sheet Machine](20200319_170513.jpg) -### Creating Plastic Sheets (12 in x 10 in x 0.4 in) +A Simple, Cheap and Easy way to make sheets of recycled plastic (30cm x 25cm x 1cm) -Sharing this method may benefit others. Please share this information and acknowledge Zero Plastics Australia if you produce work from these sheets. +After having a Heart attack i realised that if i don't share this knowledge it wont help anyone, all i ask is that you help spread the word and to give Zero Plastics Australia a like and to #zeroplasticsaustralia with any work you make from these sheets. User Location: Ballarat, Australia ## Steps ### Step 1: Sheet Press Machine and molds -### Materials Required +First you will need to buy yourself a Heat Press machine, i have found that these can come in many different sizes however this "how-to" will be for the 38cm2 Machine which can be purchased via the link - ebay.com.au: ebay.com.au/itm/Brand-New-38x38-High-Pressure-Heat-Press-Machine-T-shirt-Transfer-/282662703440 + +You will also need: +2x Aluminium Sheets (40cm2 and 3mm-5mm Thick) +1x 30cm x 25cm x 1cm Aluminium Mold (internal measurements) + +You can change the size of this, however a 33cm internal size sheet should be the max you want to make with this machine, as any larger and the edges will not melt. -1. **Heat Press Machine**: Purchase a 38cm x 38cm (15in x 15in) model. - -2. **Aluminium Sheets**: - - Two sheets, each 40cm x 40cm (15.7in x 15.7in), 3mm-5mm (0.12in-0.2in) thick. - -3. **Aluminium Mold**: - - One mold, measuring 30cm x 25cm x 1cm (11.8in x 9.8in x 0.4in) internally. -**Note**: Avoid exceeding a 33cm (13in) internal size for the mold, as larger dimensions may lead to incomplete melting at the edges. ![20200529_141228.jpg](./20200529_141228.jpg) @@ -44,14 +42,14 @@ User Location: Ballarat, Australia ### Step 2: Setting up your Mold -### Instructions for Making Plastic Sheets +We will be using HDPE to make these sheets (however have made sheets using PP and LDPE) -1. Place one aluminum sheet (aluminium) on the heat press. -2. Position the mold on the aluminum sheet. -3. Fill the mold with 28 ounces (800 grams) of HDPE shredded plastic. -4. Cover with the second aluminum sheet. +1. Add 1 Aluminium sheet to your heat press. +2. Add Mold. +3. Fill Mold with 800 grams of HDPE shredded plastic. +4. Add the other Aluminium sheet. -Apply mold release to the sheets and mold if available. +If you have a mold release i would recommend added it to the sheets and mold. ![20200529_140433 (1).jpg](./20200529_140433_1.jpg) @@ -64,36 +62,44 @@ Apply mold release to the sheets and mold if available. ### Step 3: Setting up the Sheets -1. Set your machine to 392°F (200°C) and allow it to reach maximum temperature. -2. Set the timer for 16 minutes (960 seconds). +1. Set your machine to 200c and let it heat up to max temperature +2. Set timer for 960 (16min) -Adjust the machine and mold height accordingly. Cook the mold for 16 minutes, tighten, and repeat three times. +You will need to play around with the height of the machine and your mold as we "cook" the mold for 1 run (16min) then tighten it, then "cook" 3 more times. -3. Upon reaching maximum temperature, close the lid securely. It may take several attempts to close tightly without spillage. +3. Once at Max Temp close the lid as tight as you can. (might still be loose or take a few times to close but try to get this as tight as you can without spilling the mold) + + ![20200529_142524.jpg](./20200529_142524.jpg) ### Step 4: "Cooking" the Sheets -Once the lid is closed on the mold, the timer starts with 16 minutes for the initial process of making a sheet. After the first 16 minutes, open the machine and tighten it. +Once you have closed the lid on the mold the timer will start and you have 16min to save the world...wait that isnt it. -1. Tighten the machine (usually 3 full turns suffice, but adjust as needed). -2. Close the machine and cook for another 16 minutes. -3. Upon completion, flip the mold (as the machine heats from one side). Flipping it front to back yields optimal results. -4. Cook for two additional periods (16 minutes each). +You have started the process of making a sheet. After the first 16min of cooking you will need to open the machine and tighten it. + +1. Tighten the machine (normally 3 full turns will do the trick, however this is something you will need to work around) +2. Close the machine and cook again for another 16min +3. After the 2nd cook is completed Flip the mold (as the machine only heats from one side) +Flipping the mold front to back will give you the best results +4. Cook for 2 more times (16min + 16min) + +In total you should of cooked the mold 4 times (2 times on each side) -In total, cook the mold four times (twice on each side). ![20200602_130058.jpg](./20200602_130058.jpg) ### Step 5: Cooling the Sheets -Once the final cooking is finished, place your mold with the hot side down on a cool concrete surface. This is crucial to prevent warping. +IMMEDIATELY Once the last cook is complete grab your mold and put it HOT SIDE to the ground. -1. Position the hot side on the ground. -2. Apply weight on top of the mold, using as much as possible. +This is super important and will save your sheets from warping. + +1. HOT SIDE to cool concrete ground. +2. Add weight onto the top of your mold (the more the better) ![20200529_153628.jpg](./20200529_153628.jpg) @@ -103,15 +109,15 @@ Once the final cooking is finished, place your mold with the hot side down on a ### Step 6: We're Done! -### Instructions for Sheet Mold Cooling and Removal +Now wait about 30min the longer the better but once the mold has cooled you can open it up and will have a perfect sheet. -1. **Cooling Time**: Allow the mold to cool for approximately 30 minutes. If feasible, extend this duration for optimal results. - -2. **Removing the Sheet**: After cooling, open the mold. Use a utility knife to cut the sheet if no mold release agent was applied. +You can use a utility knife to cut the sheet out of the mold if you havent used any mold release. -3. **Additional Cooling**: If the sheet remains hot, turn it over and place a weight on top for another 30 minutes. +If the sheet is still hot, flip it over and add the weight back on top again for another 30min. -4. **Completion**: Your sheet is now complete. +However that it is! you should now be looking at your finished sheet! yay! go you! + +I will try to upload a video on all of this shortly ![20200602_120214.jpg](./20200602_120214.jpg) @@ -124,13 +130,13 @@ Once the final cooking is finished, place your mold with the hot side down on a ### Step 7: FAQs -You might have additional questions since this is a complex process, but it becomes straightforward and requires minimal labor once mastered. +You might have a few other questions with this as it is a big process but once you work it out it is very easy to do with hardly any labor time needed when making the sheet. -1. How do you adjust the machine's height? Refer to the manual provided with the heat press; it involves a screw at the machine's top. -2. Can different plastics be used? Yes, although I only use HDPE. Please share runtime and temperature if using other types. -3. What are these sheets used for? Consult attached photos or our social pages for updates. +1.How to adjust the height of the machine? this will come in the manual with the Heat press but it is just the screw at the top of the machine. +2. can you use different plastics? Yes but i have only been collecting HDPE. please share the run time and temp if you use another type of plastic +3. What can you use these sheets for? have a look at the photos attached or visit our social pages for further updates Zero Plastics Australia -For further inquiries, email zero.plastics.australia@gmail.com. +If you need any other questions please email us at zero.plastics.australia@​gmail.com ![IMG_20200523_113844_550.jpg](./IMG_20200523_113844_550.jpg) @@ -142,57 +148,4 @@ For further inquiries, email zero.plastics.australia@gmail.com. ![received_1999586570184921.jpeg](./received_1999586570184921.jpeg) ## Resources -### Tools - -- Utility knife (for cutting plastic sheets) -- Mold release applicator (optional) - -### Software - -- Not required - -### Hardware - -- Heat press machine ([38cm x 38cm / 15in x 15in](https://example.com)) -- 2x Aluminium sheets ([40cm x 40cm, 3-5mm thick](https://example.com)) -- Aluminium mold ([30cm x 25cm x 1cm internal](https://example.com)) -- Heavy weights (for cooling, e.g., concrete blocks) -- Adjustable screw mechanism (integrated into heat press) - -*Contact ~~[Zero Plastics Australia](mailto:zero.plastics.australia@gmail.com)~~ for process-specific guidance.* -## References -## Articles - -- https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/High-density_polyethylene -- https://www.beeplastic.com/blogs/plastic-insights/the-ultimate-material-showdown-hdpe-sheets-vs-other-plastics -- http://www.grafixplastics.com/materials-plastic-film-plastic-sheets/commodity-plastic-film/polyolefin-sheet/hdpe-sheet/ -- https://www.craftsuprint.com/projects/paper-craft/book-crafts/how-to-make-a-durable-plastic-book-cover.cfm -- https://simonwillison.net/dashboard/blogmarks-that-use-markdown/ -- http://filefoldermachine.com/1-3-plastic-sheet-extrusion-line.html - -## Books - -- https://excelitefab.com/e-book-complete-guide-polycarbonate-fabrication/ -- https://download.e-bookshelf.de/download/0000/5853/75/L-G-0000585375-0002361409.pdf - -## Papers - -- https://peer.asee.org/affordable-and-localized-plastic-sheet-press-machine-for-sustainable-manufacturing.pdf - -## YouTube - -- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nQEvEjdvToQ - -## Open-source Designs - -- https://www.instructables.com/Casting-with-Soft-Mold-Constructed-from-Sheet-Mate/ -- https://www.[filtered].earth/news/sheetpress - -## GitHub Resources - -- https://gist.github.com/chapmanjacobd/9a5d9eae393d059398b6b8b6369c0c71 -- https://github.com/tatsu-lab/alpaca_eval/blob/main/results/gpt-3.5-turbo-1106/model_outputs.json - -## Other Resources - -- https://huggingface.co/datasets/brando/small-open-web-math-dataset-v2/viewer \ No newline at end of file +## References \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/howtos/zero-plastic-australias-sheet-machine/config.json b/howtos/zero-plastic-australias-sheet-machine/config.json index cfe7f4917..881ff2f2f 100644 --- a/howtos/zero-plastic-australias-sheet-machine/config.json +++ b/howtos/zero-plastic-australias-sheet-machine/config.json @@ -15,7 +15,7 @@ "src": "C:\\Users\\zx\\Desktop\\osr\\osr-machines\\howtos\\zero-plastic-australias-sheet-machine\\20200319_170513.jpg" }, "fileLink": "", - "description": "### Creating Plastic Sheets (12 in x 10 in x 0.4 in)\n\nSharing this method may benefit others. Please share this information and acknowledge Zero Plastics Australia if you produce work from these sheets.", + "description": "A Simple, Cheap and Easy way to make sheets of recycled plastic (30cm x 25cm x 1cm)\n\nAfter having a Heart attack i realised that if i don't share this knowledge it wont help anyone, all i ask is that you help spread the word and to give Zero Plastics Australia a like and to #zeroplasticsaustralia with any work you make from these sheets. ", "_deleted": false, "creatorCountry": "", "id": "pRKF5b8LVJsViPHq73OG", @@ -96,7 +96,7 @@ ], "title": "Sheet Press Machine and molds", "_animationKey": "unique1", - "text": "### Materials Required\n\n1. **Heat Press Machine**: Purchase a 38cm x 38cm (15in x 15in) model.\n \n2. **Aluminium Sheets**: \n - Two sheets, each 40cm x 40cm (15.7in x 15.7in), 3mm-5mm (0.12in-0.2in) thick.\n \n3. **Aluminium Mold**:\n - One mold, measuring 30cm x 25cm x 1cm (11.8in x 9.8in x 0.4in) internally.\n\n**Note**: Avoid exceeding a 33cm (13in) internal size for the mold, as larger dimensions may lead to incomplete melting at the edges." + "text": "First you will need to buy yourself a Heat Press machine, i have found that these can come in many different sizes however this \"how-to\" will be for the 38cm2 Machine which can be purchased via the link - ebay.com.au: ebay.com.au/itm/Brand-New-38x38-High-Pressure-Heat-Press-Machine-T-shirt-Transfer-/282662703440\n\nYou will also need:\n2x Aluminium Sheets (40cm2 and 3mm-5mm Thick)\n1x 30cm x 25cm x 1cm Aluminium Mold (internal measurements)\n\nYou can change the size of this, however a 33cm internal size sheet should be the max you want to make with this machine, as any larger and the edges will not melt. \n\n" }, { "title": "Setting up your Mold", @@ -139,7 +139,7 @@ } ], "_animationKey": "unique3", - "text": "### Instructions for Making Plastic Sheets\n\n1. Place one aluminum sheet (aluminium) on the heat press.\n2. Position the mold on the aluminum sheet.\n3. Fill the mold with 28 ounces (800 grams) of HDPE shredded plastic.\n4. Cover with the second aluminum sheet.\n\nApply mold release to the sheets and mold if available." + "text": "We will be using HDPE to make these sheets (however have made sheets using PP and LDPE)\n\n1. Add 1 Aluminium sheet to your heat press.\n2. Add Mold. \n3. Fill Mold with 800 grams of HDPE shredded plastic.\n4. Add the other Aluminium sheet. \n\nIf you have a mold release i would recommend added it to the sheets and mold. " }, { "images": [ @@ -158,10 +158,10 @@ ], "title": "Setting up the Sheets", "_animationKey": "unique2", - "text": "1. Set your machine to 392°F (200°C) and allow it to reach maximum temperature.\n2. Set the timer for 16 minutes (960 seconds).\n\nAdjust the machine and mold height accordingly. Cook the mold for 16 minutes, tighten, and repeat three times.\n\n3. Upon reaching maximum temperature, close the lid securely. It may take several attempts to close tightly without spillage." + "text": "1. Set your machine to 200c and let it heat up to max temperature \n2. Set timer for 960 (16min) \n\nYou will need to play around with the height of the machine and your mold as we \"cook\" the mold for 1 run (16min) then tighten it, then \"cook\" 3 more times. \n\n3. Once at Max Temp close the lid as tight as you can. (might still be loose or take a few times to close but try to get this as tight as you can without spilling the mold) \n\n " }, { - "text": "Once the lid is closed on the mold, the timer starts with 16 minutes for the initial process of making a sheet. After the first 16 minutes, open the machine and tighten it.\n\n1. Tighten the machine (usually 3 full turns suffice, but adjust as needed).\n2. Close the machine and cook for another 16 minutes.\n3. Upon completion, flip the mold (as the machine heats from one side). Flipping it front to back yields optimal results.\n4. Cook for two additional periods (16 minutes each).\n\nIn total, cook the mold four times (twice on each side).", + "text": "Once you have closed the lid on the mold the timer will start and you have 16min to save the world...wait that isnt it. \n\nYou have started the process of making a sheet. After the first 16min of cooking you will need to open the machine and tighten it.\n\n1. Tighten the machine (normally 3 full turns will do the trick, however this is something you will need to work around) \n2. Close the machine and cook again for another 16min\n3. After the 2nd cook is completed Flip the mold (as the machine only heats from one side) \nFlipping the mold front to back will give you the best results\n4. Cook for 2 more times (16min + 16min) \n\nIn total you should of cooked the mold 4 times (2 times on each side) \n", "_animationKey": "uniquetyjcpl", "title": "\"Cooking\" the Sheets", "images": [ @@ -207,7 +207,7 @@ "alt": "20200529_153728.jpg" } ], - "text": "Once the final cooking is finished, place your mold with the hot side down on a cool concrete surface. This is crucial to prevent warping.\n\n1. Position the hot side on the ground.\n2. Apply weight on top of the mold, using as much as possible.", + "text": "IMMEDIATELY Once the last cook is complete grab your mold and put it HOT SIDE to the ground.\n\nThis is super important and will save your sheets from warping. \n\n1. HOT SIDE to cool concrete ground. \n2. Add weight onto the top of your mold (the more the better) ", "_animationKey": "uniquej5u4x3" }, { @@ -251,7 +251,7 @@ ], "title": "We're Done! ", "_animationKey": "uniqueb5wp1p", - "text": "### Instructions for Sheet Mold Cooling and Removal\n\n1. **Cooling Time**: Allow the mold to cool for approximately 30 minutes. If feasible, extend this duration for optimal results.\n \n2. **Removing the Sheet**: After cooling, open the mold. Use a utility knife to cut the sheet if no mold release agent was applied.\n\n3. **Additional Cooling**: If the sheet remains hot, turn it over and place a weight on top for another 30 minutes.\n\n4. **Completion**: Your sheet is now complete." + "text": "Now wait about 30min the longer the better but once the mold has cooled you can open it up and will have a perfect sheet. \n\nYou can use a utility knife to cut the sheet out of the mold if you havent used any mold release.\n\nIf the sheet is still hot, flip it over and add the weight back on top again for another 30min. \n\nHowever that it is! you should now be looking at your finished sheet! yay! go you! \n\nI will try to upload a video on all of this shortly " }, { "title": "FAQs", @@ -293,7 +293,7 @@ "alt": "received_1999586570184921.jpeg" } ], - "text": "You might have additional questions since this is a complex process, but it becomes straightforward and requires minimal labor once mastered.\n\n1. How do you adjust the machine's height? Refer to the manual provided with the heat press; it involves a screw at the machine's top.\n2. Can different plastics be used? Yes, although I only use HDPE. Please share runtime and temperature if using other types.\n3. What are these sheets used for? Consult attached photos or our social pages for updates.\n\nFor further inquiries, email zero.plastics.australia@gmail.com.", + "text": "You might have a few other questions with this as it is a big process but once you work it out it is very easy to do with hardly any labor time needed when making the sheet. \n\n1.How to adjust the height of the machine? this will come in the manual with the Heat press but it is just the screw at the top of the machine. \n2. can you use different plastics? Yes but i have only been collecting HDPE. please share the run time and temp if you use another type of plastic \n3. What can you use these sheets for? have a look at the photos attached or visit our social pages for further updates Zero Plastics Australia\n\nIf you need any other questions please email us at zero.plastics.australia@​gmail.com", "_animationKey": "uniquedp5pqa" } ], @@ -459,9 +459,5 @@ "urls": [] } }, - "content": "### Creating Plastic Sheets (12 in x 10 in x 0.4 in)\n\nSharing this method may benefit others. Please share this information and acknowledge Zero Plastics Australia if you produce work from these sheets.\n\n\nUser Location: Ballarat, Australia\n\n### Materials Required\n\n1. **Heat Press Machine**: Purchase a 38cm x 38cm (15in x 15in) model.\n \n2. **Aluminium Sheets**: \n - Two sheets, each 40cm x 40cm (15.7in x 15.7in), 3mm-5mm (0.12in-0.2in) thick.\n \n3. **Aluminium Mold**:\n - One mold, measuring 30cm x 25cm x 1cm (11.8in x 9.8in x 0.4in) internally.\n\n**Note**: Avoid exceeding a 33cm (13in) internal size for the mold, as larger dimensions may lead to incomplete melting at the edges.\n\n### Instructions for Making Plastic Sheets\n\n1. Place one aluminum sheet (aluminium) on the heat press.\n2. Position the mold on the aluminum sheet.\n3. Fill the mold with 28 ounces (800 grams) of HDPE shredded plastic.\n4. Cover with the second aluminum sheet.\n\nApply mold release to the sheets and mold if available.\n\n1. Set your machine to 392°F (200°C) and allow it to reach maximum temperature.\n2. Set the timer for 16 minutes (960 seconds).\n\nAdjust the machine and mold height accordingly. Cook the mold for 16 minutes, tighten, and repeat three times.\n\n3. Upon reaching maximum temperature, close the lid securely. It may take several attempts to close tightly without spillage.\n\nOnce the lid is closed on the mold, the timer starts with 16 minutes for the initial process of making a sheet. After the first 16 minutes, open the machine and tighten it.\n\n1. Tighten the machine (usually 3 full turns suffice, but adjust as needed).\n2. Close the machine and cook for another 16 minutes.\n3. Upon completion, flip the mold (as the machine heats from one side). Flipping it front to back yields optimal results.\n4. Cook for two additional periods (16 minutes each).\n\nIn total, cook the mold four times (twice on each side).\n\nOnce the final cooking is finished, place your mold with the hot side down on a cool concrete surface. This is crucial to prevent warping.\n\n1. Position the hot side on the ground.\n2. Apply weight on top of the mold, using as much as possible.\n\n### Instructions for Sheet Mold Cooling and Removal\n\n1. **Cooling Time**: Allow the mold to cool for approximately 30 minutes. If feasible, extend this duration for optimal results.\n \n2. **Removing the Sheet**: After cooling, open the mold. Use a utility knife to cut the sheet if no mold release agent was applied.\n\n3. **Additional Cooling**: If the sheet remains hot, turn it over and place a weight on top for another 30 minutes.\n\n4. **Completion**: Your sheet is now complete.\n\nYou might have additional questions since this is a complex process, but it becomes straightforward and requires minimal labor once mastered.\n\n1. How do you adjust the machine's height? Refer to the manual provided with the heat press; it involves a screw at the machine's top.\n2. Can different plastics be used? Yes, although I only use HDPE. Please share runtime and temperature if using other types.\n3. What are these sheets used for? Consult attached photos or our social pages for updates.\n\nFor further inquiries, email zero.plastics.australia@gmail.com.", - "keywords": "plastic sheet making, HDPE plastic sheets, DIY plastic sheets, heat press plastic sheets, aluminum mold for plastic, Ballarat plastic recycling, Zero Plastics Australia, homemade plastic sheets, plastic recycling method, eco-friendly plastic production", - "resources": "### Tools\n\n- Utility knife (for cutting plastic sheets)\n- Mold release applicator (optional)\n\n### Software\n\n- Not required\n\n### Hardware\n\n- Heat press machine ([38cm x 38cm / 15in x 15in](https://example.com))\n- 2x Aluminium sheets ([40cm x 40cm, 3-5mm thick](https://example.com))\n- Aluminium mold ([30cm x 25cm x 1cm internal](https://example.com))\n- Heavy weights (for cooling, e.g., concrete blocks)\n- Adjustable screw mechanism (integrated into heat press)\n\n*Contact ~~[Zero Plastics Australia](mailto:zero.plastics.australia@gmail.com)~~ for process-specific guidance.*", - "references": "## Articles\n\n- https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/High-density_polyethylene\n- https://www.beeplastic.com/blogs/plastic-insights/the-ultimate-material-showdown-hdpe-sheets-vs-other-plastics\n- http://www.grafixplastics.com/materials-plastic-film-plastic-sheets/commodity-plastic-film/polyolefin-sheet/hdpe-sheet/\n- https://www.craftsuprint.com/projects/paper-craft/book-crafts/how-to-make-a-durable-plastic-book-cover.cfm\n- https://simonwillison.net/dashboard/blogmarks-that-use-markdown/\n- http://filefoldermachine.com/1-3-plastic-sheet-extrusion-line.html\n\n## Books\n\n- https://excelitefab.com/e-book-complete-guide-polycarbonate-fabrication/\n- https://download.e-bookshelf.de/download/0000/5853/75/L-G-0000585375-0002361409.pdf\n\n## Papers\n\n- https://peer.asee.org/affordable-and-localized-plastic-sheet-press-machine-for-sustainable-manufacturing.pdf\n\n## YouTube\n\n- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nQEvEjdvToQ\n\n## Open-source Designs\n\n- https://www.instructables.com/Casting-with-Soft-Mold-Constructed-from-Sheet-Mate/\n- https://www.[filtered].earth/news/sheetpress\n\n## GitHub Resources\n\n- https://gist.github.com/chapmanjacobd/9a5d9eae393d059398b6b8b6369c0c71\n- https://github.com/tatsu-lab/alpaca_eval/blob/main/results/gpt-3.5-turbo-1106/model_outputs.json\n\n## Other Resources\n\n- https://huggingface.co/datasets/brando/small-open-web-math-dataset-v2/viewer", - "brief": "Create durable plastic sheets using a heat press, aluminum sheets, and molds. Follow step-by-step instructions for optimal results. Zero Plastics Australia." + "content": "A Simple, Cheap and Easy way to make sheets of recycled plastic (30cm x 25cm x 1cm)\n\nAfter having a Heart attack i realised that if i don't share this knowledge it wont help anyone, all i ask is that you help spread the word and to give Zero Plastics Australia a like and to #zeroplasticsaustralia with any work you make from these sheets. \n\n\nUser Location: Ballarat, Australia\n\nFirst you will need to buy yourself a Heat Press machine, i have found that these can come in many different sizes however this \"how-to\" will be for the 38cm2 Machine which can be purchased via the link - ebay.com.au: ebay.com.au/itm/Brand-New-38x38-High-Pressure-Heat-Press-Machine-T-shirt-Transfer-/282662703440\n\nYou will also need:\n2x Aluminium Sheets (40cm2 and 3mm-5mm Thick)\n1x 30cm x 25cm x 1cm Aluminium Mold (internal measurements)\n\nYou can change the size of this, however a 33cm internal size sheet should be the max you want to make with this machine, as any larger and the edges will not melt. \n\n\n\nWe will be using HDPE to make these sheets (however have made sheets using PP and LDPE)\n\n1. Add 1 Aluminium sheet to your heat press.\n2. Add Mold. \n3. Fill Mold with 800 grams of HDPE shredded plastic.\n4. Add the other Aluminium sheet. \n\nIf you have a mold release i would recommend added it to the sheets and mold. \n\n1. Set your machine to 200c and let it heat up to max temperature \n2. Set timer for 960 (16min) \n\nYou will need to play around with the height of the machine and your mold as we \"cook\" the mold for 1 run (16min) then tighten it, then \"cook\" 3 more times. \n\n3. Once at Max Temp close the lid as tight as you can. (might still be loose or take a few times to close but try to get this as tight as you can without spilling the mold) \n\n \n\nOnce you have closed the lid on the mold the timer will start and you have 16min to save the world...wait that isnt it. \n\nYou have started the process of making a sheet. After the first 16min of cooking you will need to open the machine and tighten it.\n\n1. Tighten the machine (normally 3 full turns will do the trick, however this is something you will need to work around) \n2. Close the machine and cook again for another 16min\n3. After the 2nd cook is completed Flip the mold (as the machine only heats from one side) \nFlipping the mold front to back will give you the best results\n4. Cook for 2 more times (16min + 16min) \n\nIn total you should of cooked the mold 4 times (2 times on each side) \n\n\nIMMEDIATELY Once the last cook is complete grab your mold and put it HOT SIDE to the ground.\n\nThis is super important and will save your sheets from warping. \n\n1. HOT SIDE to cool concrete ground. \n2. Add weight onto the top of your mold (the more the better) \n\nNow wait about 30min the longer the better but once the mold has cooled you can open it up and will have a perfect sheet. \n\nYou can use a utility knife to cut the sheet out of the mold if you havent used any mold release.\n\nIf the sheet is still hot, flip it over and add the weight back on top again for another 30min. \n\nHowever that it is! you should now be looking at your finished sheet! yay! go you! \n\nI will try to upload a video on all of this shortly \n\nYou might have a few other questions with this as it is a big process but once you work it out it is very easy to do with hardly any labor time needed when making the sheet. \n\n1.How to adjust the height of the machine? this will come in the manual with the Heat press but it is just the screw at the top of the machine. \n2. can you use different plastics? Yes but i have only been collecting HDPE. please share the run time and temp if you use another type of plastic \n3. What can you use these sheets for? have a look at the photos attached or visit our social pages for further updates Zero Plastics Australia\n\nIf you need any other questions please email us at zero.plastics.australia@​gmail.com" } \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/sheetpress/components/sprcb-1150-rc2/cad/200_PressPlate-Global-650.json b/sheetpress/components/sprcb-1150-rc2/cad/200_PressPlate-Global-650.json new file mode 100644 index 000000000..2975c2da4 --- /dev/null +++ b/sheetpress/components/sprcb-1150-rc2/cad/200_PressPlate-Global-650.json @@ -0,0 +1,68 @@ +[ + { + "File Path": "C:\\Users\\zx\\Desktop\\osr\\products\\products\\sheetpress\\components\\sprcb-650-rc2\\cad\\200_PressPlate-Global-650.SLDASM", + "IsLaser": "1", + "Hide": "0" + }, + { + "File Path": "C:\\Users\\zx\\Desktop\\osr\\products\\products\\sheetpress\\components\\sprcb-650-rc2\\cad\\303_TriMount_x8_5mm_FERRO.SLDPRT" + }, + { + "File Path": "C:\\SOLIDWORKS Data\\browser\\Ansi Metric\\bolts and 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BIF_NEWDIALOGSTYLE +' set the virtual desktop as ini folder +Private Const IniFolder = &H0 'Virtual Desktop +Function getLastFeatureByType(model,typ) + Set feat = model.FirstFeature ' Get the 1st feature in part + Set res = Nothing + Count = 0 + Do While Not feat Is Nothing ' While we have a valid feature + If feat.GetTypeName() = typ Then + Set res = feat + End If + Set feat = feat.GetNextFeature() ' Get the next feature + Loop ' Continue until no more + Set getLastFeatureByType = res +End Function +' this code with copy a matrix to a other +Function copyMat4x4(source) +Dim res(0 To 15) As Double +For i = 0 To 15 + res(i) = source(i) +Next +copyMat4x4 = res +End Function + +' This code creates a mat from a sw mat +Function createMatFromSWMat(source) + Dim res(0 To 15) As Double + res(0) = source(0) + res(1) = source(1) + res(2) = source(2) + res(3) = 0 + res(4) = source(3) + res(5) = source(4) + res(6) = source(5) + res(7) = 0 + res(8) = source(6) + res(9) = source(7) + res(10) = source(8) + res(11) = 0 + res(12) = source(9) + res(13) = source(10) + res(14) = source(11) + res(15) = source(12) + createMatFromSWMat = res +End Function +Function createSWMatFromMat(source) + Dim res(0 To 15) As Double + res(0) = source(0) + res(1) = source(1) + res(2) = source(2) + res(3) = source(4) + res(4) = source(5) + res(5) = source(6) + res(6) = source(8) + res(7) = source(9) + res(8) = source(10) + res(9) = source(12) + res(10) = source(13) + res(11) = source(14) + res(12) = source(15) + res(13) = 0 + res(14) = 0 + res(15) = 0 + createSWMatFromMat = res +End Function +Function createMat4x4FromValues(x1,x2,x3,y1,y2,y3,z1,z2,z3,t1,t2,t3) + Dim res(0 To 15) As Double + res(0) = x1 + res(1) = x2 + res(2) = x3 + res(3) = 0 + res(4) = y1 + res(5) = y2 + res(6) = y3 + res(7) = 0 + res(8) = z1 + res(9) = z2 + res(10) =z3 + res(11) = 0 + res(12) = t1 + res(13) = t2 + res(14) = t3 + res(15) = 1 + createMat4x4FromValues = res +End Function +' this code will mult a common mat with any other stuff +Function multMatMat(ld, xld, yld, rd, xrd, yrd) + mulRes = yld * xrd + 'Dim od(0 To 0) As Variant + ReDim od(mulRes - 1) As Double + For i = 0 To mulRes - 1 + od(i) = 0# + Next + y = 0 + While y < yld + x = 0 + While x < xrd + i = 0 + While i < xld + od(x * yld + y) = od(x * yld + y) + ld(i * yld + y) * rd(x * yrd + i) + i = i + 1 + Wend + x = x + 1 + Wend + y = y + 1 + Wend + multMatMat = od + +End Function +' this code will mult a vector with a matrix +Function mulMat4x4Values3d(mat, x,y,z) + tmp = createVec4d(x, y, z, 1) + res = multMatMat(mat, 4, 4, tmp, 1, 3) + mulMat4x4Values3d = createVec3d(res(0), res(1), res(2)) +End Function +Function mulMat4x4Vec3d(mat, vec) + tmp = createVec4d(vec(0), vec(1), vec(2), 1) + res = multMatMat(mat, 4, 4, tmp, 1, 3) + mulMat4x4Vec3d = createVec3d(res(0), res(1), res(2)) +End Function +Function mulMat4x4Mat4x4(mat1, mat2) + mulMat4x4Mat4x4 = multMatMat(mat1, 4, 4, mat2, 4, 4) +End Function +' create a 4x4 matrix +Function createMat4x4() + Dim res(0 To 15) As Double + for i = 0 to 15 + res(i) = 0 + next + createMat4x4 = res +End Function +Function createMat4x4Ident() + Dim res(0 To 15) As Double + res(0) = 1 + res(5) = 1 + res(10) = 1 + res(15) = 1 + res(1) = 0 + res(2) = 0 + res(3) = 0 + res(4) = 0 + res(6) = 0 + res(7) = 0 + res(8) = 0 + res(9) = 0 + res(11) = 0 + res(12) = 0 + res(13) = 0 + res(14) = 0 + createMat4x4Ident = res +End Function +' this function create a new vector +Function createVec3d(x, y, z) + Dim res(0 To 2) As Double + res(0) = x + res(1) = y + res(2) = z + createVec3d = res +End Function +' this function create a new vector +Function createVec4d(x, y, z, w) + Dim res(0 To 3) As Double + res(0) = x + res(1) = y + res(2) = z + res(3) = w + createVec4d = res +End Function + +Function getMatTVec(mat) + getMatTVec = createVec3d(mat(12), mat(13), mat(14)) +End Function + +Sub setMatTVec(mat, v) + mat(12) = v(0) + mat(13) = v(1) + mat(14) = v(2) +End Sub +Sub setMatXVec(mat, v) + mat(0) = v(0) + mat(1) = v(1) + mat(2) = v(2) +End Sub +Sub setMatYVec(mat, v) + mat(4) = v(0) + mat(5) = v(1) + mat(6) = v(2) +End Sub +Sub setMatZVec(mat, v) + mat(8) = v(0) + mat(9) = v(1) + mat(10) = v(2) +End Sub +Sub setMatScale(mat, s) + mat(15) = s +End Sub +Function getMatXVec(mat) + getMatXVec = createVec3d(mat(0), mat(1), mat(2)) +End Function +Function getMatYVec(mat) + getMatYVec = createVec3d(mat(4), mat(5), mat(6)) +End Function +Function getMatZVec(mat) + getMatZVec = createVec3d(mat(8), mat(9), mat(10)) +End Function + +Function negVec3d(v) + negVec3d = createVec3d(-v(0), -v(1), -v(2)) +End Function +Function scaleVec3d(v,s) + scaleVec3d = createVec3d(v(0)*s,v(1)*s,v(2)*s) +End Function +' invert a 4x4 matrix +Function invMat4x4(source) +target = copyMat4x4(source) +setMatTVec target, createVec3d(0, 0, 0) + target(1) = source(4) + target(4) = source(1) + target(2) = source(8) + target(8) = source(2) + target(6) = source(9) + target(9) = source(6) + setMatScale target,1 + t = getMatTVec(source) + v = mulMat4x4Vec3d(target, t) + setMatTVec target, negVec3d(v) + invMat4x4 = target +End Function +Function IsEqual(argVec3DA, argVec3DB) + For i = 0 To 2 + If( argVec3DA(i) <> argVec3DB(i) ) Then + Exit For + End If + Next + If(i = 3) Then + IsEqual = 1 + Else + IsEqual = 0 + End If +End Function +Function getFaceFromModel(part, pos, normal) + Dim partBodies As Variant + partBodies = part.GetBodies(swSolidBody) + For k = LBound(partBodies) To UBound(partBodies) + found = 0 + Dim body As Object + Set body = partBodies(k) + Set face = body.GetFirstFace() + Set getFaceFromModel = nothing + minDist = -1 + Do While Not face Is Nothing ' While we have a valid feature + Set sur = face.GetSurface() + If sur.IsPlane() Then + planePara = sur.PlaneParams + faceNormal = face.normal + nTest = faceNormal(0) * normal(0) + faceNormal(1) * normal(1) + faceNormal(2) * normal(2) + If nTest > 1 - 0.000001 Then + ' check projection + closeRes = face.GetClosestPointOn(pos(0), pos(1), pos(2)) + dTest = (pos(0) - closeRes(0)) * (pos(0) - closeRes(0)) + (pos(1) - closeRes(1)) * (pos(1) - closeRes(1)) + (pos(2) - closeRes(2)) * (pos(2) - closeRes(2)) + If ( dTest < minDist Or minDist = -1 ) Then + Set getFaceFromModel = face + minDist = dTest + found=1 + End If + End If + else + If sur.IsCylinder() then + closeRes = face.GetClosestPointOn(pos(0), pos(1), pos(2)) + dTest = (pos(0) - closeRes(0)) * (pos(0) - closeRes(0)) + (pos(1) - closeRes(1)) * (pos(1) - closeRes(1)) + (pos(2) - closeRes(2)) * (pos(2) - closeRes(2)) + If ( dTest < minDist Or minDist = -1 ) Then + res=sur.EvaluateAtPoint(closeRes(0),closeRes(1),closeRes(2)) + nTest=res(0)*normal(0)+res(1)*normal(1)+res(2)*normal(2) + if nTest>1-0.00000001 then + Set getFaceFromModel = face + found=1 + End if + End if + End if + End if + Set face = face.GetNextFace ' Get the next Face + Loop + If (found = 1) Then + Exit For + End If + Next k +End Function +Function getEdgeFromModel(part, pos,byref edgeRet) + Dim partBodies As Variant + partBodies = part.GetBodies(swSolidBody) + For k = LBound(partBodies) To UBound(partBodies) + Dim body As Object + Set body = partBodies(k) + edges= body.GetEdges() + start= LBound(edges) + ende = UBound(edges) + For i = start To ende + Set edge = edges(i) + closeRes=edge.GetClosestPointOn(pos(0),pos(1),pos(2)) + dTest = (pos(0) - closeRes(0)) * (pos(0) - closeRes(0)) + (pos(1) - closeRes(1)) * (pos(1) - closeRes(1)) + (pos(2) - closeRes(2)) * (pos(2) - closeRes(2)) + If dTest < 0.00000001 Then + set edgeRet=edge + getEdgeFromModel=true + exit function + End If + Next i + Next k + getEdgeFromModel=false +End Function +sub cLn(part,wMat,x1,y1,x2,y2) +pk1=mulMat4x4Values3d(wMat,x1,y1,0) +pk2=mulMat4x4Values3d(wMat,x2,y2,0) +Part.SketchManager.CreateLine pk1(0),pk1(1),0,pk2(0),pk2(1),0 +end sub +sub cCLn(part,wMat,x1,y1,x2,y2) +pk1=mulMat4x4Values3d(wMat,x1,y1,0) +pk2=mulMat4x4Values3d(wMat,x2,y2,0) +Part.CreateCenterLineVB pk1(0),pk1(1),0,pk2(0),pk2(1),0 +end sub +sub cArc(part,wMat,x1,y1,x2,y2,x3,y3) +pk1=mulMat4x4Values3d(wMat,x1,y1,0) +pk2=mulMat4x4Values3d(wMat,x2,y2,0) +pk3=mulMat4x4Values3d(wMat,x3,y3,0) +Part.SketchManager.Create3PointArc pk1(0),pk1(1),0,pk3(0),pk3(1),0,pk2(0),pk2(1),0 +end sub +sub cCir(part,wMat,x1,y1,rad) +pk1=mulMat4x4Values3d(wMat,x1,y1,0) +Part.SketchManager.CreateCircleByRadius pk1(0),pk1(1),0,rad +end sub +Public Function BrowseForFolder +Dim objFolder, objShell +Set objShell = CreateObject("Shell.Application") +Set objFolder = objShell.BrowseForFolder(0, "Please select the folder..", BIF_BrowseFolder, IniFolder) +If Not (objFolder Is Nothing) Then + BrowseForFolder = objFolder.Self.path +End If +End Function +Sub SelectCommonEdge(argFaceA, argFaceB) + edgesA = argFaceA.GetEdges + edgesB = argFaceB.GetEdges + For Each edgeA In edgesA + Set vertexA1 = edgeA.GetStartVertex + Set vertexA2 = edgeA.GetEndVertex + pointA1 = vertexA1.GetPoint + pointA2 = vertexA2.GetPoint + For Each edgeB In edgesB + Set vertexB1 = edgeB.GetStartVertex + Set vertexB2 = edgeB.GetEndVertex + pointB1 = vertexB1.GetPoint + pointB2 = vertexB2.GetPoint + If ( (IsEqual(pointA1, pointB1) And IsEqual(pointA2, pointB2)) Or (IsEqual(pointA1, pointB2) And IsEqual(pointA2, pointB1)) ) Then + edgeA.Select(True) + Exit Sub + End If + Next + Next +End Sub +Sub CreatePart0 +dim errors as long +dim warnings as long +Dim longstatus As Long +if (docVisible=0) then + swApp.DocumentVisible 0, 1 +end if +set res=swApp.OpenDoc6 ( storePath & "SBR20UU.sldprt",1,3,"", errors, warnings) +swApp.ActivateDoc2 "SBR20UU.sldprt", False, longstatus +if not res is nothing then + if (docVisible=0) then + swApp.DocumentVisible 1, 1 + end if + exit sub +end if +if (docVisible=0) then + swApp.DocumentVisible 1, 1 +end if +Dim sPartTemplateName As String +sPartTemplateName = swApp.GetUserPreferenceStringValue(8) +Set part = swApp.NewDocument(sPartTemplateName, 0, 0, 0) +swApp.ActivateDoc2 "SBR20UU.sldprt", False, longstatus +Set part = swApp.ActiveDoc +part.SketchManager.AddToDB = true +part.SketchManager.DisplayWhenAdded = false +part.ActiveView.EnableGraphicsUpdate = false +Set modelExt = part.Extension +Set customPropMgr = modelExt.CustomPropertyManager("") +customPropMgr.Add2 "NB", 30, "SBR20UU" +customPropMgr.Add2 "NN", 30, "SBR" +customPropMgr.Add2 "NT", 30, "Linear Motion Ball Bearing Slide Units" +customPropMgr.Add2 "NBSYN", 30, "$CNSTYPECODE." +customPropMgr.Add2 "LINA", 30, "SBR20UU" +customPropMgr.Add2 "CATALOG", 30, "YTP" +customPropMgr.Add2 "MODEL", 30, "SBR20UU" +customPropMgr.Add2 "IB", 30, "LM20UU-OP" +customPropMgr.Add2 "SD", 30, "20" +customPropMgr.Add2 "H", 30, "23" +customPropMgr.Add2 "E", 30, "24.0" +customPropMgr.Add2 "W", 30, "48" +customPropMgr.Add2 "L", 30, "50" +customPropMgr.Add2 "F", 30, "39.0" +customPropMgr.Add2 "T", 30, "11.0" +customPropMgr.Add2 "HH1", 30, "10.0" +customPropMgr.Add2 "ANG", 30, "60" +customPropMgr.Add2 "B", 30, "35.0" +customPropMgr.Add2 "C", 30, "35" +customPropMgr.Add2 "S", 30, "M6" +customPropMgr.Add2 "I", 30, "12" +customPropMgr.Add2 "CC", 30, "88" +customPropMgr.Add2 "CO", 30, "140" +customPropMgr.Add2 "WEIGHT", 30, "0.200" +customPropMgr.Add2 "PS", 30, "GBT/16940-2012" +customPropMgr.Add2 "MAT1", 30, "6063 Aluminium Alloy" +customPropMgr.Add2 "TS1", 30, "Natural Anodic Oxidation (Conventional)" +customPropMgr.Add2 "TS2", 30, "Black Anodic Oxidation Treatment (Customized)" +customPropMgr.Add2 "TEMPERATUER", 30, "-20~80" +customPropMgr.Add2 "SUPPLIER", 30, "YTP" +customPropMgr.Add2 "ARTICLENO", 30, "SBR20UU" +customPropMgr.Add2 "BOMINFO", 30, "SBR20UU" +customPropMgr.Add2 "CREATOR", 30, "CADENAS GmbH" +customPropMgr.Add2 "IsFastener", 30, "0" +part.SummaryInfo(0)="SBR20UU" +part.SummaryInfo(4)="Linear Motion Ball Bearing Slide Units" +part.SummaryInfo(2)="Cadenas PARTsolutions" +valRGB=part.MaterialPropertyValues +valRGB(0)=0.75 +valRGB(1)=0.75 +valRGB(2)=0.75 +valRGB(7)=0 +part.MaterialPropertyValues=valRGB +Dim featMgr as object +set featMgr = part.FeatureManager +codeBag0 part,featMgr +part.ActiveView.EnableGraphicsUpdate = true +part.SketchManager.DisplayWhenAdded = true +part.SketchManager.AddToDB = false +part.EditRebuild3 +part.Rebuild swRebuildAll +Set modelExt = part.Extension +modelExt.SaveAs storePath & "SBR20UU.sldprt",0,0,nothing,errors,warnings +End Sub +sub codeBag1(part,wMat) +cLn part,wMat,-0.024,0.022,-0.024,0.012 +cLn part,wMat,-0.024,0.012,-0.0225,0.0105 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0225,0.0105,-0.0225,-0.0144 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0225,-0.0144,-0.0215,-0.0154 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0215,-0.0154,-0.0095840144685478,-0.0154 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0095840144685478,-0.0154,-0.0055106071276578,-0.0083446515256545 +cArc part,wMat,-0.0055106071276578,-0.0083446515256545,3.9497954175685e-18,0.01,0.0055106071276578,-0.0083446515256545 +cLn part,wMat,0.0055106071276578,-0.0083446515256545,0.0095840144685478,-0.0154 +cLn part,wMat,0.0095840144685478,-0.0154,0.0215,-0.0154 +cLn part,wMat,0.0215,-0.0154,0.0225,-0.0144 +cLn part,wMat,0.0225,-0.0144,0.0225,0.0105 +cLn part,wMat,0.0225,0.0105,0.024,0.012 +cLn part,wMat,0.024,0.012,0.024,0.022 +cLn part,wMat,0.024,0.022,0.023,0.023 +cLn part,wMat,0.023,0.023,0.0105,0.023 +cLn part,wMat,0.0105,0.023,0.0095,0.022 +cLn part,wMat,0.0095,0.022,-0.0095,0.022 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0095,0.022,-0.0105,0.023 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0105,0.023,-0.023,0.023 +cLn part,wMat,-0.023,0.023,-0.024,0.022 +Part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +end sub + +sub codeBag2(part,wMat) +cLn part,wMat,-0.0215,-0.016,-0.009237604307034,-0.016 +cLn part,wMat,-0.009237604307034,-0.016,-0.005,-0.0086602540378444 +cArc part,wMat,-0.005,-0.0086602540378444,-0.00525767218305,-0.0085062849244298,-0.0055106071276578,-0.0083446515256545 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0055106071276578,-0.0083446515256545,-0.0095840144685478,-0.0154 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0095840144685478,-0.0154,-0.0215,-0.0154 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0215,-0.0154,-0.0215,-0.016 +Part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +end sub + +sub codeBag3(part,wMat) +cLn part,wMat,0.005,-0.0086602540378444,0.009237604307034,-0.016 +cLn part,wMat,0.009237604307034,-0.016,0.0215,-0.016 +cLn part,wMat,0.0215,-0.016,0.0215,-0.0154 +cLn part,wMat,0.0215,-0.0154,0.0095840144685478,-0.0154 +cLn part,wMat,0.0095840144685478,-0.0154,0.0055106071276578,-0.0083446515256545 +cArc part,wMat,0.0055106071276578,-0.0083446515256545,0.00525767218305,-0.0085062849244298,0.005,-0.0086602540378444 +Part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +end sub + +sub codeBag4(part,wMat) +cCir part,wMat,0.0175,0.0175,0.0025 +cLn part,wMat,0.0155,0.017,0.016633974596216,0.017 +cArc part,wMat,0.016633974596216,0.017,0.016792893218813,0.016792893218813,0.017,0.016633974596216 +cLn part,wMat,0.017,0.016633974596216,0.017,0.0155 +cLn part,wMat,0.017,0.0155,0.018,0.0155 +cLn part,wMat,0.018,0.0155,0.018,0.016633974596216 +cArc part,wMat,0.018,0.016633974596216,0.018207106781187,0.016792893218813,0.018366025403784,0.017 +cLn part,wMat,0.018366025403784,0.017,0.0195,0.017 +cLn part,wMat,0.0195,0.017,0.0195,0.018 +cLn part,wMat,0.0195,0.018,0.018366025403784,0.018 +cArc part,wMat,0.018366025403784,0.018,0.018207106781187,0.018207106781187,0.018,0.018366025403784 +cLn part,wMat,0.018,0.018366025403784,0.018,0.0195 +cLn part,wMat,0.018,0.0195,0.017,0.0195 +cLn part,wMat,0.017,0.0195,0.017,0.018366025403784 +cArc part,wMat,0.017,0.018366025403784,0.016792893218813,0.018207106781187,0.016633974596216,0.018 +cLn part,wMat,0.016633974596216,0.018,0.0155,0.018 +cLn part,wMat,0.0155,0.018,0.0155,0.017 +Part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +end sub + +sub codeBag5(part,wMat) +cCir part,wMat,0.0175,-0.0175,0.0025 +cLn part,wMat,0.0155,-0.017,0.0155,-0.018 +cLn part,wMat,0.0155,-0.018,0.016633974596216,-0.018 +cArc part,wMat,0.016633974596216,-0.018,0.016792893218813,-0.018207106781187,0.017,-0.018366025403784 +cLn part,wMat,0.017,-0.018366025403784,0.017,-0.0195 +cLn part,wMat,0.017,-0.0195,0.018,-0.0195 +cLn part,wMat,0.018,-0.0195,0.018,-0.018366025403784 +cArc part,wMat,0.018,-0.018366025403784,0.018207106781187,-0.018207106781187,0.018366025403784,-0.018 +cLn part,wMat,0.018366025403784,-0.018,0.0195,-0.018 +cLn part,wMat,0.0195,-0.018,0.0195,-0.017 +cLn part,wMat,0.0195,-0.017,0.018366025403784,-0.017 +cArc part,wMat,0.018366025403784,-0.017,0.018207106781187,-0.016792893218813,0.018,-0.016633974596216 +cLn part,wMat,0.018,-0.016633974596216,0.018,-0.0155 +cLn part,wMat,0.018,-0.0155,0.017,-0.0155 +cLn part,wMat,0.017,-0.0155,0.017,-0.016633974596216 +cArc part,wMat,0.017,-0.016633974596216,0.016792893218813,-0.016792893218813,0.016633974596216,-0.017 +cLn part,wMat,0.016633974596216,-0.017,0.0155,-0.017 +Part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +end sub + +sub codeBag6(part,wMat) +cCir part,wMat,-0.0175,0.0175,0.0025 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0195,0.018,-0.0195,0.017 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0195,0.017,-0.018366025403784,0.017 +cArc part,wMat,-0.018366025403784,0.017,-0.018207106781187,0.016792893218813,-0.018,0.016633974596216 +cLn part,wMat,-0.018,0.016633974596216,-0.018,0.0155 +cLn part,wMat,-0.018,0.0155,-0.017,0.0155 +cLn part,wMat,-0.017,0.0155,-0.017,0.016633974596216 +cArc part,wMat,-0.017,0.016633974596216,-0.016792893218813,0.016792893218813,-0.016633974596216,0.017 +cLn part,wMat,-0.016633974596216,0.017,-0.0155,0.017 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0155,0.017,-0.0155,0.018 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0155,0.018,-0.016633974596216,0.018 +cArc part,wMat,-0.016633974596216,0.018,-0.016792893218813,0.018207106781187,-0.017,0.018366025403784 +cLn part,wMat,-0.017,0.018366025403784,-0.017,0.0195 +cLn part,wMat,-0.017,0.0195,-0.018,0.0195 +cLn part,wMat,-0.018,0.0195,-0.018,0.018366025403784 +cArc part,wMat,-0.018,0.018366025403784,-0.018207106781187,0.018207106781187,-0.018366025403784,0.018 +cLn part,wMat,-0.018366025403784,0.018,-0.0195,0.018 +Part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +end sub + +sub codeBag7(part,wMat) +cCir part,wMat,-0.0175,-0.0175,0.0025 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0195,-0.018,-0.018366025403784,-0.018 +cArc part,wMat,-0.018366025403784,-0.018,-0.018207106781187,-0.018207106781187,-0.018,-0.018366025403784 +cLn part,wMat,-0.018,-0.018366025403784,-0.018,-0.0195 +cLn part,wMat,-0.018,-0.0195,-0.017,-0.0195 +cLn part,wMat,-0.017,-0.0195,-0.017,-0.018366025403784 +cArc part,wMat,-0.017,-0.018366025403784,-0.016792893218813,-0.018207106781187,-0.016633974596216,-0.018 +cLn part,wMat,-0.016633974596216,-0.018,-0.0155,-0.018 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0155,-0.018,-0.0155,-0.017 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0155,-0.017,-0.016633974596216,-0.017 +cArc part,wMat,-0.016633974596216,-0.017,-0.016792893218813,-0.016792893218813,-0.017,-0.016633974596216 +cLn part,wMat,-0.017,-0.016633974596216,-0.017,-0.0155 +cLn part,wMat,-0.017,-0.0155,-0.018,-0.0155 +cLn part,wMat,-0.018,-0.0155,-0.018,-0.016633974596216 +cArc part,wMat,-0.018,-0.016633974596216,-0.018207106781187,-0.016792893218813,-0.018366025403784,-0.017 +cLn part,wMat,-0.018366025403784,-0.017,-0.0195,-0.017 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0195,-0.017,-0.0195,-0.018 +Part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +end sub + +sub codeBag8(part,wMat) +cLn part,wMat,-0.0175,0.023,-0.0145,0.023 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0145,0.023,-0.0150415,0.0224585 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0150415,0.0224585,-0.0150415,0.011 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0150415,0.011,-0.0175,0.011 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0175,0.011,-0.0175,0.023 +cCLn part,wMat,-0.0175,0.011,-0.0175,0.023 +Part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +end sub + +sub codeBag9(part,wMat) +cLn part,wMat,-0.0175,0.023,-0.0145,0.023 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0145,0.023,-0.0150415,0.0224585 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0150415,0.0224585,-0.0150415,0.011 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0150415,0.011,-0.0175,0.011 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0175,0.011,-0.0175,0.023 +cCLn part,wMat,-0.0175,0.011,-0.0175,0.023 +Part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +end sub + +sub codeBag10(part,wMat) +cLn part,wMat,-0.0175,0.023,-0.0145,0.023 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0145,0.023,-0.0150415,0.0224585 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0150415,0.0224585,-0.0150415,0.011 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0150415,0.011,-0.0175,0.011 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0175,0.011,-0.0175,0.023 +cCLn part,wMat,-0.0175,0.011,-0.0175,0.023 +Part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +end sub + +sub codeBag11(part,wMat) +cLn part,wMat,-0.0175,0.023,-0.0145,0.023 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0145,0.023,-0.0150415,0.0224585 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0150415,0.0224585,-0.0150415,0.011 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0150415,0.011,-0.0175,0.011 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0175,0.011,-0.0175,0.023 +cCLn part,wMat,-0.0175,0.011,-0.0175,0.023 +Part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +end sub + +sub codeBag0(part,featMgr) +part.CreatePlaneFixed2 createVec3d(0,0,0),createVec3d(0,0,-1),createVec3d(0,1,0),1 +set feat4=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat4.select2 false,0 +part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +part.BlankRefGeom +Set swActiveMat = Part.SketchManager.ActiveSketch +swSketchMat= createMatFromSWMat(swActiveMat.ModelToSketchXForm) +mSkMat=createMat4x4FromValues(0,0,-1,0,1,0,1,0,0,0,0,0) +wMat=mulMat4x4Mat4x4(swSketchMat,mSkMat) +codeBag1 part,wMat +set feat4=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat4.select2 false,0 +featMgr.FeatureExtrusion2 0,0,1,0,0,0.025,0.025,1,1,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,1,1,1,0,0,0 +part.CreatePlaneFixed2 createVec3d(0,0,0),createVec3d(0,0,-1),createVec3d(0,1,0),1 +set feat6=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat6.select2 false,0 +part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +part.BlankRefGeom +Set swActiveMat = Part.SketchManager.ActiveSketch +swSketchMat= createMatFromSWMat(swActiveMat.ModelToSketchXForm) +mSkMat=createMat4x4FromValues(0,0,-1,0,1,0,1,0,0,0,0,0) +wMat=mulMat4x4Mat4x4(swSketchMat,mSkMat) +codeBag2 part,wMat +set feat6=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat6.select2 false,0 +featMgr.FeatureExtrusion2 0,0,1,0,0,0.0225,0.0225,1,1,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,1,1,1,0,0,0 +part.CreatePlaneFixed2 createVec3d(0,0,0),createVec3d(0,0,-1),createVec3d(0,1,0),1 +set feat8=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat8.select2 false,0 +part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +part.BlankRefGeom +Set swActiveMat = Part.SketchManager.ActiveSketch +swSketchMat= createMatFromSWMat(swActiveMat.ModelToSketchXForm) +mSkMat=createMat4x4FromValues(0,0,-1,0,1,0,1,0,0,0,0,0) +wMat=mulMat4x4Mat4x4(swSketchMat,mSkMat) +codeBag3 part,wMat +set feat8=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat8.select2 false,0 +featMgr.FeatureExtrusion2 0,0,1,0,0,0.0225,0.0225,1,1,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,1,1,1,0,0,0 +part.CreatePlaneFixed2 createVec3d(0,-0.016,0),createVec3d(1,-0.016,0),createVec3d(0,-0.016,-1),1 +set feat11=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat11.select2 false,0 +part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +part.BlankRefGeom +Set swActiveMat = Part.SketchManager.ActiveSketch +swSketchMat= createMatFromSWMat(swActiveMat.ModelToSketchXForm) +mSkMat=createMat4x4FromValues(1,0,0,0,0,-1,0,1,0,0,-0.016,0) +wMat=mulMat4x4Mat4x4(swSketchMat,mSkMat) +codeBag4 part,wMat +set feat11=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat11.select2 false,0 +featMgr.FeatureExtrusion2 1,0,1,0,0,0.0005,0.0005,1,1,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,1,1,1,0,0,0 +part.CreatePlaneFixed2 createVec3d(0,-0.016,0),createVec3d(1,-0.016,0),createVec3d(0,-0.016,-1),1 +set feat13=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat13.select2 false,0 +part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +part.BlankRefGeom +Set swActiveMat = Part.SketchManager.ActiveSketch +swSketchMat= createMatFromSWMat(swActiveMat.ModelToSketchXForm) +mSkMat=createMat4x4FromValues(1,0,0,0,0,-1,0,1,0,0,-0.016,0) +wMat=mulMat4x4Mat4x4(swSketchMat,mSkMat) +codeBag5 part,wMat +set feat13=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat13.select2 false,0 +featMgr.FeatureExtrusion2 1,0,1,0,0,0.0005,0.0005,1,1,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,1,1,1,0,0,0 +part.CreatePlaneFixed2 createVec3d(0,-0.016,0),createVec3d(1,-0.016,0),createVec3d(0,-0.016,-1),1 +set feat15=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat15.select2 false,0 +part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +part.BlankRefGeom +Set swActiveMat = Part.SketchManager.ActiveSketch +swSketchMat= createMatFromSWMat(swActiveMat.ModelToSketchXForm) +mSkMat=createMat4x4FromValues(1,0,0,0,0,-1,0,1,0,0,-0.016,0) +wMat=mulMat4x4Mat4x4(swSketchMat,mSkMat) +codeBag6 part,wMat +set feat15=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat15.select2 false,0 +featMgr.FeatureExtrusion2 1,0,1,0,0,0.0005,0.0005,1,1,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,1,1,1,0,0,0 +part.CreatePlaneFixed2 createVec3d(0,-0.016,0),createVec3d(1,-0.016,0),createVec3d(0,-0.016,-1),1 +set feat17=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat17.select2 false,0 +part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +part.BlankRefGeom +Set swActiveMat = Part.SketchManager.ActiveSketch +swSketchMat= createMatFromSWMat(swActiveMat.ModelToSketchXForm) +mSkMat=createMat4x4FromValues(1,0,0,0,0,-1,0,1,0,0,-0.016,0) +wMat=mulMat4x4Mat4x4(swSketchMat,mSkMat) +codeBag7 part,wMat +set feat17=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat17.select2 false,0 +featMgr.FeatureExtrusion2 1,0,1,0,0,0.0005,0.0005,1,1,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,1,1,1,0,0,0 +part.CreatePlaneFixed2 createVec3d(0.0175,0,0),createVec3d(0.0175,0,-1),createVec3d(0.0175,1,0),1 +set feat22=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat22.select2 false,0 +part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +part.BlankRefGeom +Set swActiveMat = Part.SketchManager.ActiveSketch +swSketchMat= createMatFromSWMat(swActiveMat.ModelToSketchXForm) +mSkMat=createMat4x4FromValues(0,0,-1,0,1,0,1,0,0,0.0175,0,0) +wMat=mulMat4x4Mat4x4(swSketchMat,mSkMat) +codeBag8 part,wMat +set feat22=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat22.select2 false,0 +featMgr.FeatureRevolveCut2 6.2831853071796,1,6.2831853071796,0,0,1,1,false,false,false + if getEdgeFromModel(part,createVec3d(0.0175,0.0224585,0.0150415),cylEdge) then + cylEdge.Select(false) + Part.InsertCosmeticThread 0,0.006,0.012,"" + elseif getEdgeFromModel(part,createVec3d(0.0175,0.011,0.0150415),cylEdge) then + cylEdge.Select(false) + Part.InsertCosmeticThread 0,0.006,0.012,"" + End If +part.CreatePlaneFixed2 createVec3d(-0.0175,0,0),createVec3d(-0.0175,0,-1),createVec3d(-0.0175,1,0),1 +set feat28=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat28.select2 false,0 +part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +part.BlankRefGeom +Set swActiveMat = Part.SketchManager.ActiveSketch +swSketchMat= createMatFromSWMat(swActiveMat.ModelToSketchXForm) +mSkMat=createMat4x4FromValues(0,0,-1,0,1,0,1,0,0,-0.0175,0,0) +wMat=mulMat4x4Mat4x4(swSketchMat,mSkMat) +codeBag9 part,wMat +set feat28=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat28.select2 false,0 +featMgr.FeatureRevolveCut2 6.2831853071796,1,6.2831853071796,0,0,1,1,false,false,false + if getEdgeFromModel(part,createVec3d(-0.0175,0.0224585,0.0150415),cylEdge) then + cylEdge.Select(false) + Part.InsertCosmeticThread 0,0.006,0.012,"" + elseif getEdgeFromModel(part,createVec3d(-0.0175,0.011,0.0150415),cylEdge) then + cylEdge.Select(false) + Part.InsertCosmeticThread 0,0.006,0.012,"" + End If +part.CreatePlaneFixed2 createVec3d(0.0175,0,-0.035),createVec3d(0.0175,0,-1.035),createVec3d(0.0175,1,-0.035),1 +set feat29=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat29.select2 false,0 +part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +part.BlankRefGeom +Set swActiveMat = Part.SketchManager.ActiveSketch +swSketchMat= createMatFromSWMat(swActiveMat.ModelToSketchXForm) +mSkMat=createMat4x4FromValues(0,0,-1,0,1,0,1,0,0,0.0175,0,-0.035) +wMat=mulMat4x4Mat4x4(swSketchMat,mSkMat) +codeBag10 part,wMat +set feat29=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat29.select2 false,0 +featMgr.FeatureRevolveCut2 6.2831853071796,1,6.2831853071796,0,0,1,1,false,false,false + if getEdgeFromModel(part,createVec3d(0.0175,0.0224585,-0.0199585),cylEdge) then + cylEdge.Select(false) + Part.InsertCosmeticThread 0,0.006,0.012,"" + elseif getEdgeFromModel(part,createVec3d(0.0175,0.011,-0.0199585),cylEdge) then + cylEdge.Select(false) + Part.InsertCosmeticThread 0,0.006,0.012,"" + End If +part.CreatePlaneFixed2 createVec3d(-0.0175,0,-0.035),createVec3d(-0.0175,0,-1.035),createVec3d(-0.0175,1,-0.035),1 +set feat30=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat30.select2 false,0 +part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +part.BlankRefGeom +Set swActiveMat = Part.SketchManager.ActiveSketch +swSketchMat= createMatFromSWMat(swActiveMat.ModelToSketchXForm) +mSkMat=createMat4x4FromValues(0,0,-1,0,1,0,1,0,0,-0.0175,0,-0.035) +wMat=mulMat4x4Mat4x4(swSketchMat,mSkMat) +codeBag11 part,wMat +set feat30=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat30.select2 false,0 +featMgr.FeatureRevolveCut2 6.2831853071796,1,6.2831853071796,0,0,1,1,false,false,false + if getEdgeFromModel(part,createVec3d(-0.0175,0.0224585,-0.0199585),cylEdge) then + cylEdge.Select(false) + Part.InsertCosmeticThread 0,0.006,0.012,"" + elseif getEdgeFromModel(part,createVec3d(-0.0175,0.011,-0.0199585),cylEdge) then + cylEdge.Select(false) + Part.InsertCosmeticThread 0,0.006,0.012,"" + End If +end sub + +sub main +set swApp = Application.SldWorks +code = swApp.RevisionNumber +found = InStr(code, ".") +If (found > 0) Then + code = Left(code, found-1) + docVisible=1 + If (CInt(code) >= 18) Then + docVisible=0 + End If +End If +swApp.SetUserPreferenceToggle 11, FALSE +swApp.SetUserPreferenceToggle 97, FALSE +storePath=BrowseForFolder +If (storePath <> "") Then + If ((Right(storePath, 1) <> "\") And (Right(storePath, 1) <> "/")) Then + storePath = storePath + "\" + End If + createPart0 +End If +end sub diff --git a/sheetpress/components/sprcb-1150-rc2/cad/rails/SBSg620-500L (25 3).stp b/sheetpress/components/sprcb-1150-rc2/cad/rails/SBSg620-500L (25 3).stp new file mode 100644 index 000000000..819e2a4da --- /dev/null +++ b/sheetpress/components/sprcb-1150-rc2/cad/rails/SBSg620-500L (25 3).stp @@ -0,0 +1,3226 @@ +ISO-10303-21; +HEADER; +FILE_DESCRIPTION( ( 'STEP AP214' ), '1' ); +FILE_NAME( 'p:/temp/worker_17/temp/exporttempdir_5020_294_RhhAk/format_0/SBSg620-500L (25 3).stp', '2021-10-14T09:31:31', ( 'License CC BY-ND 4.0' ), ( 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feat = model.FirstFeature ' Get the 1st feature in part + Set res = Nothing + Count = 0 + Do While Not feat Is Nothing ' While we have a valid feature + If feat.GetTypeName() = typ Then + Set res = feat + End If + Set feat = feat.GetNextFeature() ' Get the next feature + Loop ' Continue until no more + Set getLastFeatureByType = res +End Function +' this code with copy a matrix to a other +Function copyMat4x4(source) +Dim res(0 To 15) As Double +For i = 0 To 15 + res(i) = source(i) +Next +copyMat4x4 = res +End Function + +' This code creates a mat from a sw mat +Function createMatFromSWMat(source) + Dim res(0 To 15) As Double + res(0) = source(0) + res(1) = source(1) + res(2) = source(2) + res(3) = 0 + res(4) = source(3) + res(5) = source(4) + res(6) = source(5) + res(7) = 0 + res(8) = source(6) + res(9) = source(7) + res(10) = source(8) + res(11) = 0 + res(12) = source(9) + res(13) = source(10) + res(14) = source(11) + res(15) = source(12) + createMatFromSWMat = res +End Function +Function createSWMatFromMat(source) + Dim res(0 To 15) As Double + res(0) = source(0) + res(1) = source(1) + res(2) = source(2) + res(3) = source(4) + res(4) = source(5) + res(5) = source(6) + res(6) = source(8) + res(7) = source(9) + res(8) = source(10) + res(9) = source(12) + res(10) = source(13) + res(11) = source(14) + res(12) = source(15) + res(13) = 0 + res(14) = 0 + res(15) = 0 + createSWMatFromMat = res +End Function +Function createMat4x4FromValues(x1,x2,x3,y1,y2,y3,z1,z2,z3,t1,t2,t3) + Dim res(0 To 15) As Double + res(0) = x1 + res(1) = x2 + res(2) = x3 + res(3) = 0 + res(4) = y1 + res(5) = y2 + res(6) = y3 + res(7) = 0 + res(8) = z1 + res(9) = z2 + res(10) =z3 + res(11) = 0 + res(12) = t1 + res(13) = t2 + res(14) = t3 + res(15) = 1 + createMat4x4FromValues = res +End Function +' this code will mult a common mat with any other stuff +Function multMatMat(ld, xld, yld, rd, xrd, yrd) + mulRes = yld * xrd + 'Dim od(0 To 0) As Variant + ReDim od(mulRes - 1) As Double + For i = 0 To mulRes - 1 + od(i) = 0# + Next + y = 0 + While y < yld + x = 0 + While x < xrd + i = 0 + While i < xld + od(x * yld + y) = od(x * yld + y) + ld(i * yld + y) * rd(x * yrd + i) + i = i + 1 + Wend + x = x + 1 + Wend + y = y + 1 + Wend + multMatMat = od + +End Function +' this code will mult a vector with a matrix +Function mulMat4x4Values3d(mat, x,y,z) + tmp = createVec4d(x, y, z, 1) + res = multMatMat(mat, 4, 4, tmp, 1, 3) + mulMat4x4Values3d = createVec3d(res(0), res(1), res(2)) +End Function +Function mulMat4x4Vec3d(mat, vec) + tmp = createVec4d(vec(0), vec(1), vec(2), 1) + res = multMatMat(mat, 4, 4, tmp, 1, 3) + mulMat4x4Vec3d = createVec3d(res(0), res(1), res(2)) +End Function +Function mulMat4x4Mat4x4(mat1, mat2) + mulMat4x4Mat4x4 = multMatMat(mat1, 4, 4, mat2, 4, 4) +End Function +' create a 4x4 matrix +Function createMat4x4() + Dim res(0 To 15) As Double + for i = 0 to 15 + res(i) = 0 + next + createMat4x4 = res +End Function +Function createMat4x4Ident() + Dim res(0 To 15) As Double + res(0) = 1 + res(5) = 1 + res(10) = 1 + res(15) = 1 + res(1) = 0 + res(2) = 0 + res(3) = 0 + res(4) = 0 + res(6) = 0 + res(7) = 0 + res(8) = 0 + res(9) = 0 + res(11) = 0 + res(12) = 0 + res(13) = 0 + res(14) = 0 + createMat4x4Ident = res +End Function +' this function create a new vector +Function createVec3d(x, y, z) + Dim res(0 To 2) As Double + res(0) = x + res(1) = y + res(2) = z + createVec3d = res +End Function +' this function create a new vector +Function createVec4d(x, y, z, w) + Dim res(0 To 3) As Double + res(0) = x + res(1) = y + res(2) = z + res(3) = w + createVec4d = res +End Function + +Function getMatTVec(mat) + getMatTVec = createVec3d(mat(12), mat(13), mat(14)) +End Function + +Sub setMatTVec(mat, v) + mat(12) = v(0) + mat(13) = v(1) + mat(14) = v(2) +End Sub +Sub setMatXVec(mat, v) + mat(0) = v(0) + mat(1) = v(1) + mat(2) = v(2) +End Sub +Sub setMatYVec(mat, v) + mat(4) = v(0) + mat(5) = v(1) + mat(6) = v(2) +End Sub +Sub setMatZVec(mat, v) + mat(8) = v(0) + mat(9) = v(1) + mat(10) = v(2) +End Sub +Sub setMatScale(mat, s) + mat(15) = s +End Sub +Function getMatXVec(mat) + getMatXVec = createVec3d(mat(0), mat(1), mat(2)) +End Function +Function getMatYVec(mat) + getMatYVec = createVec3d(mat(4), mat(5), mat(6)) +End Function +Function getMatZVec(mat) + getMatZVec = createVec3d(mat(8), mat(9), mat(10)) +End Function + +Function negVec3d(v) + negVec3d = createVec3d(-v(0), -v(1), -v(2)) +End Function +Function scaleVec3d(v,s) + scaleVec3d = createVec3d(v(0)*s,v(1)*s,v(2)*s) +End Function +' invert a 4x4 matrix +Function invMat4x4(source) +target = copyMat4x4(source) +setMatTVec target, createVec3d(0, 0, 0) + target(1) = source(4) + target(4) = source(1) + target(2) = source(8) + target(8) = source(2) + target(6) = source(9) + target(9) = source(6) + setMatScale target,1 + t = getMatTVec(source) + v = mulMat4x4Vec3d(target, t) + setMatTVec target, negVec3d(v) + invMat4x4 = target +End Function +Function IsEqual(argVec3DA, argVec3DB) + For i = 0 To 2 + If( argVec3DA(i) <> argVec3DB(i) ) Then + Exit For + End If + Next + If(i = 3) Then + IsEqual = 1 + Else + IsEqual = 0 + End If +End Function +Function getFaceFromModel(part, pos, normal) + Dim partBodies As Variant + partBodies = part.GetBodies(swSolidBody) + For k = LBound(partBodies) To UBound(partBodies) + found = 0 + Dim body As Object + Set body = partBodies(k) + Set face = body.GetFirstFace() + Set getFaceFromModel = nothing + minDist = -1 + Do While Not face Is Nothing ' While we have a valid feature + Set sur = face.GetSurface() + If sur.IsPlane() Then + planePara = sur.PlaneParams + faceNormal = face.normal + nTest = faceNormal(0) * normal(0) + faceNormal(1) * normal(1) + faceNormal(2) * normal(2) + If nTest > 1 - 0.000001 Then + ' check projection + closeRes = face.GetClosestPointOn(pos(0), pos(1), pos(2)) + dTest = (pos(0) - closeRes(0)) * (pos(0) - closeRes(0)) + (pos(1) - closeRes(1)) * (pos(1) - closeRes(1)) + (pos(2) - closeRes(2)) * (pos(2) - closeRes(2)) + If ( dTest < minDist Or minDist = -1 ) Then + Set getFaceFromModel = face + minDist = dTest + found=1 + End If + End If + else + If sur.IsCylinder() then + closeRes = face.GetClosestPointOn(pos(0), pos(1), pos(2)) + dTest = (pos(0) - closeRes(0)) * (pos(0) - closeRes(0)) + (pos(1) - closeRes(1)) * (pos(1) - closeRes(1)) + (pos(2) - closeRes(2)) * (pos(2) - closeRes(2)) + If ( dTest < minDist Or minDist = -1 ) Then + res=sur.EvaluateAtPoint(closeRes(0),closeRes(1),closeRes(2)) + nTest=res(0)*normal(0)+res(1)*normal(1)+res(2)*normal(2) + if nTest>1-0.00000001 then + Set getFaceFromModel = face + found=1 + End if + End if + End if + End if + Set face = face.GetNextFace ' Get the next Face + Loop + If (found = 1) Then + Exit For + End If + Next k +End Function +Function getEdgeFromModel(part, pos,byref edgeRet) + Dim partBodies As Variant + partBodies = part.GetBodies(swSolidBody) + For k = LBound(partBodies) To UBound(partBodies) + Dim body As Object + Set body = partBodies(k) + edges= body.GetEdges() + start= LBound(edges) + ende = UBound(edges) + For i = start To ende + Set edge = edges(i) + closeRes=edge.GetClosestPointOn(pos(0),pos(1),pos(2)) + dTest = (pos(0) - closeRes(0)) * (pos(0) - closeRes(0)) + (pos(1) - closeRes(1)) * (pos(1) - closeRes(1)) + (pos(2) - closeRes(2)) * (pos(2) - closeRes(2)) + If dTest < 0.00000001 Then + set edgeRet=edge + getEdgeFromModel=true + exit function + End If + Next i + Next k + getEdgeFromModel=false +End Function +sub cLn(part,wMat,x1,y1,x2,y2) +pk1=mulMat4x4Values3d(wMat,x1,y1,0) +pk2=mulMat4x4Values3d(wMat,x2,y2,0) +Part.SketchManager.CreateLine pk1(0),pk1(1),0,pk2(0),pk2(1),0 +end sub +sub cCLn(part,wMat,x1,y1,x2,y2) +pk1=mulMat4x4Values3d(wMat,x1,y1,0) +pk2=mulMat4x4Values3d(wMat,x2,y2,0) +Part.CreateCenterLineVB pk1(0),pk1(1),0,pk2(0),pk2(1),0 +end sub +sub cArc(part,wMat,x1,y1,x2,y2,x3,y3) +pk1=mulMat4x4Values3d(wMat,x1,y1,0) +pk2=mulMat4x4Values3d(wMat,x2,y2,0) +pk3=mulMat4x4Values3d(wMat,x3,y3,0) +Part.SketchManager.Create3PointArc pk1(0),pk1(1),0,pk3(0),pk3(1),0,pk2(0),pk2(1),0 +end sub +sub cCir(part,wMat,x1,y1,rad) +pk1=mulMat4x4Values3d(wMat,x1,y1,0) +Part.SketchManager.CreateCircleByRadius pk1(0),pk1(1),0,rad +end sub +Public Function BrowseForFolder +Dim objFolder, objShell +Set objShell = CreateObject("Shell.Application") +Set objFolder = objShell.BrowseForFolder(0, "Please select the folder..", BIF_BrowseFolder, IniFolder) +If Not (objFolder Is Nothing) Then + BrowseForFolder = objFolder.Self.path +End If +End Function +Sub SelectCommonEdge(argFaceA, argFaceB) + edgesA = argFaceA.GetEdges + edgesB = argFaceB.GetEdges + For Each edgeA In edgesA + Set vertexA1 = edgeA.GetStartVertex + Set vertexA2 = edgeA.GetEndVertex + pointA1 = vertexA1.GetPoint + pointA2 = vertexA2.GetPoint + For Each edgeB In edgesB + Set vertexB1 = edgeB.GetStartVertex + Set vertexB2 = edgeB.GetEndVertex + pointB1 = vertexB1.GetPoint + pointB2 = vertexB2.GetPoint + If ( (IsEqual(pointA1, pointB1) And IsEqual(pointA2, pointB2)) Or (IsEqual(pointA1, pointB2) And IsEqual(pointA2, pointB1)) ) Then + edgeA.Select(True) + Exit Sub + End If + Next + Next +End Sub +Sub CreatePart0 +dim errors as long +dim warnings as long +Dim longstatus As Long +if (docVisible=0) then + swApp.DocumentVisible 0, 1 +end if +set res=swApp.OpenDoc6 ( storePath & "SBSg620-500L (25 3).sldprt",1,3,"", errors, warnings) +swApp.ActivateDoc2 "SBSg620-500L (25 3).sldprt", False, longstatus +if not res is nothing then + if (docVisible=0) then + swApp.DocumentVisible 1, 1 + end if + exit sub +end if +if (docVisible=0) then + swApp.DocumentVisible 1, 1 +end if +Dim sPartTemplateName As String +sPartTemplateName = swApp.GetUserPreferenceStringValue(8) +Set part = swApp.NewDocument(sPartTemplateName, 0, 0, 0) +swApp.ActivateDoc2 "SBSg620-500L (25 3).sldprt", False, longstatus +Set part = swApp.ActiveDoc +part.SketchManager.AddToDB = true +part.SketchManager.DisplayWhenAdded = false +part.ActiveView.EnableGraphicsUpdate = false +Set modelExt = part.Extension +Set customPropMgr = modelExt.CustomPropertyManager("") +customPropMgr.Add2 "NB", 30, "SBSg620-500L (25 3)" +customPropMgr.Add2 "NN", 30, "SBS" +customPropMgr.Add2 "NT", 30, "Support Rail Unit" +customPropMgr.Add2 "NBSYN", 30, "SBS$SHAFT.$TOL.$SD1.-$L.L ($N. $NH.)" +customPropMgr.Add2 "LINA", 30, "SBSg620-500L" +customPropMgr.Add2 "CATALOG", 30, "Samick Precision" +customPropMgr.Add2 "PN", 30, "SBS20" +customPropMgr.Add2 "SHAFT", 30, "Standard(SUJ2)" +customPropMgr.Add2 "TOL", 30, "Asian STD g6 Tolerance Shaft" +customPropMgr.Add2 "SD", 30, "F20" +customPropMgr.Add2 "L", 30, "500" +customPropMgr.Add2 "E", 30, "22.5" +customPropMgr.Add2 "HH", 30, "27" +customPropMgr.Add2 "B", 30, "45" +customPropMgr.Add2 "H", 30, "17.72" +customPropMgr.Add2 "T", 30, "5" +customPropMgr.Add2 "F", 30, "19.0" +customPropMgr.Add2 "X", 30, "8.0" +customPropMgr.Add2 "Y", 30, "10.0" +customPropMgr.Add2 "C", 30, "30" +customPropMgr.Add2 "THETA", 30, "50" +customPropMgr.Add2 "S1", 30, "F5.5" +customPropMgr.Add2 "A1", 30, "6.5" +customPropMgr.Add2 "A2", 30, "11.0" +customPropMgr.Add2 "D1", 30, "6.6" +customPropMgr.Add2 "W", 30, "3.500" +customPropMgr.Add2 "MAXL", 30, "3000" +customPropMgr.Add2 "P", 30, "150" +customPropMgr.Add2 "SD1", 30, "20" +customPropMgr.Add2 "SUPPLIER", 30, "SAMICKPR" +customPropMgr.Add2 "ARTICLENO", 30, "SBSg620-500L (25 3)" +customPropMgr.Add2 "BOMINFO", 30, "SBSg620-500L" +customPropMgr.Add2 "CREATOR", 30, "CADENAS GmbH" +customPropMgr.Add2 "IsFastener", 30, "0" +part.SummaryInfo(0)="SBSg620-500L" +part.SummaryInfo(4)="Support Rail Unit" +part.SummaryInfo(2)="Cadenas PARTsolutions" +valRGB=part.MaterialPropertyValues +valRGB(0)=0.68999999761581 +valRGB(1)=0.68999999761581 +valRGB(2)=0.68999999761581 +valRGB(7)=0 +part.MaterialPropertyValues=valRGB +Dim featMgr as object +set featMgr = part.FeatureManager +codeBag0 part,featMgr +codeBag15 part,featMgr +part.ActiveView.EnableGraphicsUpdate = true +part.SketchManager.DisplayWhenAdded = true +part.SketchManager.AddToDB = false +part.EditRebuild3 +part.Rebuild swRebuildAll +Set modelExt = part.Extension +modelExt.SaveAs storePath & "SBSg620-500L (25 3).sldprt",0,0,nothing,errors,warnings +End Sub +sub codeBag1(part,wMat) +cLn part,wMat,-0.0225,-0.0223,-0.0225,-0.0267 +cArc part,wMat,-0.0225,-0.0267,-0.022412132034356,-0.026912132034356,-0.0222,-0.027 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0222,-0.027,0.0222,-0.027 +cArc part,wMat,0.0222,-0.027,0.022412132034356,-0.026912132034356,0.0225,-0.0267 +cLn part,wMat,0.0225,-0.0267,0.0225,-0.0223 +cArc part,wMat,0.0225,-0.0223,0.022412132034356,-0.022087867965644,0.0222,-0.022 +cLn part,wMat,0.0222,-0.022,0.0098,-0.022 +cArc part,wMat,0.0098,-0.022,0.009587867965644,-0.021912132034356,0.0095,-0.0217 +cLn part,wMat,0.0095,-0.0217,0.0095,-0.0173 +cArc part,wMat,0.0095,-0.0173,0.009412132034356,-0.017087867965644,0.0092,-0.017 +cLn part,wMat,0.0092,-0.017,0.0077910161991988,-0.017 +cArc part,wMat,0.0077910161991988,-0.017,0.0076298263166948,-0.016953017433744,0.0075191238630878,-0.016826785478522 +cLn part,wMat,0.0075191238630878,-0.016826785478522,0.0040807712578687,-0.0094532145214778 +cArc part,wMat,0.0040807712578687,-0.0094532145214778,0.0039700688042618,-0.0093269825662561,0.0038088789217578,-0.00928 +cLn part,wMat,0.0038088789217578,-0.00928,-0.0038088789217578,-0.00928 +cArc part,wMat,-0.0038088789217578,-0.00928,-0.0039700688042618,-0.0093269825662561,-0.0040807712578687,-0.0094532145214778 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0040807712578687,-0.0094532145214778,-0.0075191238630878,-0.016826785478522 +cArc part,wMat,-0.0075191238630878,-0.016826785478522,-0.0076298263166948,-0.016953017433744,-0.0077910161991988,-0.017 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0077910161991988,-0.017,-0.0092,-0.017 +cArc part,wMat,-0.0092,-0.017,-0.009412132034356,-0.017087867965644,-0.0095,-0.0173 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0095,-0.0173,-0.0095,-0.0217 +cArc part,wMat,-0.0095,-0.0217,-0.009587867965644,-0.021912132034356,-0.0098,-0.022 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0098,-0.022,-0.0222,-0.022 +cArc part,wMat,-0.0222,-0.022,-0.022412132034356,-0.022087867965644,-0.0225,-0.0223 +Part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +end sub + +sub codeBag2(part,wMat) +cCir part,wMat,0,0,0.01 +Part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +end sub + +sub codeBag3(part,wMat) +cLn part,wMat,0.015,-0.022,0.01775,-0.022 +cLn part,wMat,0.01775,-0.022,0.01775,-0.027 +cLn part,wMat,0.01775,-0.027,0.015,-0.027 +cLn part,wMat,0.015,-0.027,0.015,-0.022 +cCLn part,wMat,0.015,-0.027,0.015,-0.022 +Part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +end sub + +sub codeBag4(part,wMat) +cLn part,wMat,-0.015,-0.027,-0.01775,-0.027 +cLn part,wMat,-0.01775,-0.027,-0.01775,-0.022 +cLn part,wMat,-0.01775,-0.022,-0.015,-0.022 +cLn part,wMat,-0.015,-0.022,-0.015,-0.027 +cCLn part,wMat,-0.015,-0.022,-0.015,-0.027 +Part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +end sub + +sub codeBag5(part,wMat) +cLn part,wMat,0.015,-0.022,0.01775,-0.022 +cLn part,wMat,0.01775,-0.022,0.01775,-0.027 +cLn part,wMat,0.01775,-0.027,0.015,-0.027 +cLn part,wMat,0.015,-0.027,0.015,-0.022 +cCLn part,wMat,0.015,-0.027,0.015,-0.022 +Part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +end sub + +sub codeBag6(part,wMat) +cLn part,wMat,-0.015,-0.027,-0.01775,-0.027 +cLn part,wMat,-0.01775,-0.027,-0.01775,-0.022 +cLn part,wMat,-0.01775,-0.022,-0.015,-0.022 +cLn part,wMat,-0.015,-0.022,-0.015,-0.027 +cCLn part,wMat,-0.015,-0.022,-0.015,-0.027 +Part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +end sub + +sub codeBag7(part,wMat) +cLn part,wMat,0.015,-0.022,0.01775,-0.022 +cLn part,wMat,0.01775,-0.022,0.01775,-0.027 +cLn part,wMat,0.01775,-0.027,0.015,-0.027 +cLn part,wMat,0.015,-0.027,0.015,-0.022 +cCLn part,wMat,0.015,-0.027,0.015,-0.022 +Part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +end sub + +sub codeBag8(part,wMat) +cLn part,wMat,0.015,-0.022,0.01775,-0.022 +cLn part,wMat,0.01775,-0.022,0.01775,-0.027 +cLn part,wMat,0.01775,-0.027,0.015,-0.027 +cLn part,wMat,0.015,-0.027,0.015,-0.022 +cCLn part,wMat,0.015,-0.027,0.015,-0.022 +Part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +end sub + +sub codeBag9(part,wMat) +cLn part,wMat,-0.015,-0.027,-0.01775,-0.027 +cLn part,wMat,-0.01775,-0.027,-0.01775,-0.022 +cLn part,wMat,-0.01775,-0.022,-0.015,-0.022 +cLn part,wMat,-0.015,-0.022,-0.015,-0.027 +cCLn part,wMat,-0.015,-0.022,-0.015,-0.027 +Part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +end sub + +sub codeBag10(part,wMat) +cLn part,wMat,-0.015,-0.027,-0.01775,-0.027 +cLn part,wMat,-0.01775,-0.027,-0.01775,-0.022 +cLn part,wMat,-0.01775,-0.022,-0.015,-0.022 +cLn part,wMat,-0.015,-0.022,-0.015,-0.027 +cCLn part,wMat,-0.015,-0.022,-0.015,-0.027 +Part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +end sub + +sub codeBag11(part,wMat) +cLn part,wMat,-8.8817841970013e-19,-0.0267,0.0049,-0.0267 +cLn part,wMat,0.0049,-0.0267,0.0052,-0.0264 +cLn part,wMat,0.0052,-0.0264,0.0052,-0.0205 +cLn part,wMat,0.0052,-0.0205,0.0055,-0.0205 +cLn part,wMat,0.0055,-0.0205,0.0055,-0.0267 +cArc part,wMat,0.0055,-0.0267,0.005587867965644,-0.026912132034356,0.0058,-0.027 +cLn part,wMat,0.0058,-0.027,-8.8817841970013e-19,-0.027 +cLn part,wMat,-8.8817841970013e-19,-0.027,-8.8817841970013e-19,-0.0267 +cCLn part,wMat,-8.8817841970013e-19,-0.027,-8.8817841970013e-19,-0.0205 +Part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +end sub + +sub codeBag12(part,wMat) +cLn part,wMat,-8.8817841970013e-19,-0.0267,0.0049,-0.0267 +cLn part,wMat,0.0049,-0.0267,0.0052,-0.0264 +cLn part,wMat,0.0052,-0.0264,0.0052,-0.0205 +cLn part,wMat,0.0052,-0.0205,0.0055,-0.0205 +cLn part,wMat,0.0055,-0.0205,0.0055,-0.0267 +cArc part,wMat,0.0055,-0.0267,0.005587867965644,-0.026912132034356,0.0058,-0.027 +cLn part,wMat,0.0058,-0.027,-8.8817841970013e-19,-0.027 +cLn part,wMat,-8.8817841970013e-19,-0.027,-8.8817841970013e-19,-0.0267 +cCLn part,wMat,-8.8817841970013e-19,-0.027,-8.8817841970013e-19,-0.0205 +Part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +end sub + +sub codeBag13(part,wMat) +cLn part,wMat,-8.8817841970013e-19,-0.0267,0.0049,-0.0267 +cLn part,wMat,0.0049,-0.0267,0.0052,-0.0264 +cLn part,wMat,0.0052,-0.0264,0.0052,-0.0205 +cLn part,wMat,0.0052,-0.0205,0.0055,-0.0205 +cLn part,wMat,0.0055,-0.0205,0.0055,-0.0267 +cArc part,wMat,0.0055,-0.0267,0.005587867965644,-0.026912132034356,0.0058,-0.027 +cLn part,wMat,0.0058,-0.027,-8.8817841970013e-19,-0.027 +cLn part,wMat,-8.8817841970013e-19,-0.027,-8.8817841970013e-19,-0.0267 +cCLn part,wMat,-8.8817841970013e-19,-0.027,-8.8817841970013e-19,-0.0205 +Part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +end sub + +sub codeBag14(part,wMat) +cLn part,wMat,-8.8817841970013e-19,-0.0267,0.0049,-0.0267 +cLn part,wMat,0.0049,-0.0267,0.0052,-0.0264 +cLn part,wMat,0.0052,-0.0264,0.0052,-0.0205 +cLn part,wMat,0.0052,-0.0205,0.0055,-0.0205 +cLn part,wMat,0.0055,-0.0205,0.0055,-0.0267 +cArc part,wMat,0.0055,-0.0267,0.005587867965644,-0.026912132034356,0.0058,-0.027 +cLn part,wMat,0.0058,-0.027,-8.8817841970013e-19,-0.027 +cLn part,wMat,-8.8817841970013e-19,-0.027,-8.8817841970013e-19,-0.0267 +cCLn part,wMat,-8.8817841970013e-19,-0.027,-8.8817841970013e-19,-0.0205 +Part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +end sub + +sub codeBag0(part,featMgr) +part.CreatePlaneFixed2 createVec3d(0,0,0),createVec3d(1,0,0),createVec3d(0,1,0),1 +set feat4=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat4.select2 false,0 +part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +part.BlankRefGeom +Set swActiveMat = Part.SketchManager.ActiveSketch +swSketchMat= createMatFromSWMat(swActiveMat.ModelToSketchXForm) +mSkMat=createMat4x4FromValues(1,0,0,0,1,0,0,0,1,0,0,0) +wMat=mulMat4x4Mat4x4(swSketchMat,mSkMat) +codeBag1 part,wMat +set feat4=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat4.select2 false,0 +featMgr.FeatureExtrusion2 1,0,1,0,0,0.5,0.5,1,1,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,1,1,1,0,0,0 +part.CreatePlaneFixed2 createVec3d(0,0,0),createVec3d(1,0,0),createVec3d(0,1,0),1 +set feat6=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat6.select2 false,0 +part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +part.BlankRefGeom +Set swActiveMat = Part.SketchManager.ActiveSketch +swSketchMat= createMatFromSWMat(swActiveMat.ModelToSketchXForm) +mSkMat=createMat4x4FromValues(1,0,0,0,1,0,0,0,1,0,0,0) +wMat=mulMat4x4Mat4x4(swSketchMat,mSkMat) +codeBag2 part,wMat +set feat6=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat6.select2 false,0 +featMgr.FeatureExtrusion2 1,0,1,0,0,0.5,0.5,1,1,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,1,1,1,0,0,0 +part.CreatePlaneFixed2 createVec3d(0,0,-0.025),createVec3d(1,0,-0.025),createVec3d(0,1,-0.025),1 +set feat10=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat10.select2 false,0 +part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +part.BlankRefGeom +Set swActiveMat = Part.SketchManager.ActiveSketch +swSketchMat= createMatFromSWMat(swActiveMat.ModelToSketchXForm) +mSkMat=createMat4x4FromValues(1,0,0,0,1,0,0,0,1,0,0,-0.025) +wMat=mulMat4x4Mat4x4(swSketchMat,mSkMat) +codeBag3 part,wMat +set feat10=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat10.select2 false,0 +featMgr.FeatureRevolveCut2 6.2831853071796,1,6.2831853071796,0,0,1,1,false,false,false +part.CreatePlaneFixed2 createVec3d(0,0,-0.025),createVec3d(1,0,-0.025),createVec3d(0,1,-0.025),1 +set feat12=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat12.select2 false,0 +part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +part.BlankRefGeom +Set swActiveMat = Part.SketchManager.ActiveSketch +swSketchMat= createMatFromSWMat(swActiveMat.ModelToSketchXForm) +mSkMat=createMat4x4FromValues(1,0,0,0,1,0,0,0,1,0,0,-0.025) +wMat=mulMat4x4Mat4x4(swSketchMat,mSkMat) +codeBag4 part,wMat +set feat12=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat12.select2 false,0 +featMgr.FeatureRevolveCut2 6.2831853071796,1,6.2831853071796,0,0,1,1,false,false,false +part.CreatePlaneFixed2 createVec3d(0,0,-0.475),createVec3d(1,0,-0.475),createVec3d(0,1,-0.475),1 +set feat15=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat15.select2 false,0 +part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +part.BlankRefGeom +Set swActiveMat = Part.SketchManager.ActiveSketch +swSketchMat= createMatFromSWMat(swActiveMat.ModelToSketchXForm) +mSkMat=createMat4x4FromValues(1,0,0,0,1,0,0,0,1,0,0,-0.475) +wMat=mulMat4x4Mat4x4(swSketchMat,mSkMat) +codeBag5 part,wMat +set feat15=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat15.select2 false,0 +featMgr.FeatureRevolveCut2 6.2831853071796,1,6.2831853071796,0,0,1,1,false,false,false +part.CreatePlaneFixed2 createVec3d(0,0,-0.475),createVec3d(1,0,-0.475),createVec3d(0,1,-0.475),1 +set feat16=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat16.select2 false,0 +part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +part.BlankRefGeom +Set swActiveMat = Part.SketchManager.ActiveSketch +swSketchMat= createMatFromSWMat(swActiveMat.ModelToSketchXForm) +mSkMat=createMat4x4FromValues(1,0,0,0,1,0,0,0,1,0,0,-0.475) +wMat=mulMat4x4Mat4x4(swSketchMat,mSkMat) +codeBag6 part,wMat +set feat16=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat16.select2 false,0 +featMgr.FeatureRevolveCut2 6.2831853071796,1,6.2831853071796,0,0,1,1,false,false,false +part.CreatePlaneFixed2 createVec3d(0,0,-0.175),createVec3d(1,0,-0.175),createVec3d(0,1,-0.175),1 +set feat22=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat22.select2 false,0 +part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +part.BlankRefGeom +Set swActiveMat = Part.SketchManager.ActiveSketch +swSketchMat= createMatFromSWMat(swActiveMat.ModelToSketchXForm) +mSkMat=createMat4x4FromValues(1,0,0,0,1,0,0,0,1,0,0,-0.175) +wMat=mulMat4x4Mat4x4(swSketchMat,mSkMat) +codeBag7 part,wMat +set feat22=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat22.select2 false,0 +featMgr.FeatureRevolveCut2 6.2831853071796,1,6.2831853071796,0,0,1,1,false,false,false +part.CreatePlaneFixed2 createVec3d(0,0,-0.325),createVec3d(1,0,-0.325),createVec3d(0,1,-0.325),1 +set feat23=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat23.select2 false,0 +part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +part.BlankRefGeom +Set swActiveMat = Part.SketchManager.ActiveSketch +swSketchMat= createMatFromSWMat(swActiveMat.ModelToSketchXForm) +mSkMat=createMat4x4FromValues(1,0,0,0,1,0,0,0,1,0,0,-0.325) +wMat=mulMat4x4Mat4x4(swSketchMat,mSkMat) +codeBag8 part,wMat +set feat23=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat23.select2 false,0 +featMgr.FeatureRevolveCut2 6.2831853071796,1,6.2831853071796,0,0,1,1,false,false,false +part.CreatePlaneFixed2 createVec3d(0,0,-0.175),createVec3d(1,0,-0.175),createVec3d(0,1,-0.175),1 +set feat27=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat27.select2 false,0 +part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +part.BlankRefGeom +Set swActiveMat = Part.SketchManager.ActiveSketch +swSketchMat= createMatFromSWMat(swActiveMat.ModelToSketchXForm) +mSkMat=createMat4x4FromValues(1,0,0,0,1,0,0,0,1,0,0,-0.175) +wMat=mulMat4x4Mat4x4(swSketchMat,mSkMat) +codeBag9 part,wMat +set feat27=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat27.select2 false,0 +featMgr.FeatureRevolveCut2 6.2831853071796,1,6.2831853071796,0,0,1,1,false,false,false +part.CreatePlaneFixed2 createVec3d(0,0,-0.325),createVec3d(1,0,-0.325),createVec3d(0,1,-0.325),1 +set feat28=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat28.select2 false,0 +part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +part.BlankRefGeom +Set swActiveMat = Part.SketchManager.ActiveSketch +swSketchMat= createMatFromSWMat(swActiveMat.ModelToSketchXForm) +mSkMat=createMat4x4FromValues(1,0,0,0,1,0,0,0,1,0,0,-0.325) +wMat=mulMat4x4Mat4x4(swSketchMat,mSkMat) +codeBag10 part,wMat +set feat28=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat28.select2 false,0 +featMgr.FeatureRevolveCut2 6.2831853071796,1,6.2831853071796,0,0,1,1,false,false,false +part.CreatePlaneFixed2 createVec3d(0,0,-0.025),createVec3d(1,0,-0.025),createVec3d(0,1,-0.025),1 +set feat30=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat30.select2 false,0 +part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +part.BlankRefGeom +Set swActiveMat = Part.SketchManager.ActiveSketch +swSketchMat= createMatFromSWMat(swActiveMat.ModelToSketchXForm) +mSkMat=createMat4x4FromValues(1,0,0,0,1,0,0,0,1,0,0,-0.025) +wMat=mulMat4x4Mat4x4(swSketchMat,mSkMat) +codeBag11 part,wMat +set feat30=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat30.select2 false,0 +featMgr.FeatureRevolveCut2 6.2831853071796,1,6.2831853071796,0,0,1,1,false,false,false +part.CreatePlaneFixed2 createVec3d(8.8817841970013e-19,0,-0.175),createVec3d(1,0,-0.175),createVec3d(8.8817841970013e-19,1,-0.175),1 +set feat35=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat35.select2 false,0 +part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +part.BlankRefGeom +Set swActiveMat = Part.SketchManager.ActiveSketch +swSketchMat= createMatFromSWMat(swActiveMat.ModelToSketchXForm) +mSkMat=createMat4x4FromValues(1,0,0,0,1,0,0,0,1,8.8817841970013e-19,0,-0.175) +wMat=mulMat4x4Mat4x4(swSketchMat,mSkMat) +codeBag12 part,wMat +set feat35=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat35.select2 false,0 +featMgr.FeatureRevolveCut2 6.2831853071796,1,6.2831853071796,0,0,1,1,false,false,false +part.CreatePlaneFixed2 createVec3d(8.8817841970013e-19,0,-0.325),createVec3d(1,0,-0.325),createVec3d(8.8817841970013e-19,1,-0.325),1 +set feat36=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat36.select2 false,0 +part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +part.BlankRefGeom +Set swActiveMat = Part.SketchManager.ActiveSketch +swSketchMat= createMatFromSWMat(swActiveMat.ModelToSketchXForm) +mSkMat=createMat4x4FromValues(1,0,0,0,1,0,0,0,1,8.8817841970013e-19,0,-0.325) +wMat=mulMat4x4Mat4x4(swSketchMat,mSkMat) +codeBag13 part,wMat +set feat36=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat36.select2 false,0 +featMgr.FeatureRevolveCut2 6.2831853071796,1,6.2831853071796,0,0,1,1,false,false,false +part.CreatePlaneFixed2 createVec3d(8.8817841970013e-19,0,-0.475),createVec3d(1,0,-0.475),createVec3d(8.8817841970013e-19,1,-0.475),1 +set feat37=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat37.select2 false,0 +part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +part.BlankRefGeom +Set swActiveMat = Part.SketchManager.ActiveSketch +swSketchMat= createMatFromSWMat(swActiveMat.ModelToSketchXForm) +mSkMat=createMat4x4FromValues(1,0,0,0,1,0,0,0,1,8.8817841970013e-19,0,-0.475) +wMat=mulMat4x4Mat4x4(swSketchMat,mSkMat) +codeBag14 part,wMat +set feat37=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat37.select2 false,0 +featMgr.FeatureRevolveCut2 6.2831853071796,1,6.2831853071796,0,0,1,1,false,false,false +end sub + +sub codeBag16(part,wMat) +cLn part,wMat,-0.002275,-0.0013134718624064,0,-0.0026269437248128 +cLn part,wMat,0,-0.0026269437248128,0.002275,-0.0013134718624064 +cLn part,wMat,0.002275,-0.0013134718624064,0.002275,0.0013134718624064 +cLn part,wMat,0.002275,0.0013134718624064,0,0.0026269437248128 +cLn part,wMat,0,0.0026269437248128,-0.002275,0.0013134718624064 +cLn part,wMat,-0.002275,0.0013134718624064,-0.002275,-0.0013134718624064 +Part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +end sub + +sub codeBag17(part,wMat) +cLn part,wMat,-0.002275,-0.0013134718624064,0,-0.0026269437248128 +cLn part,wMat,0,-0.0026269437248128,0.002275,-0.0013134718624064 +cLn part,wMat,0.002275,-0.0013134718624064,0.002275,0.0013134718624064 +cLn part,wMat,0.002275,0.0013134718624064,0,0.0026269437248128 +cLn part,wMat,0,0.0026269437248128,-0.002275,0.0013134718624064 +cLn part,wMat,-0.002275,0.0013134718624064,-0.002275,-0.0013134718624064 +Part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +end sub + +sub codeBag18(part,wMat) +cLn part,wMat,-0.002275,-0.0013134718624064,0,-0.0026269437248128 +cLn part,wMat,0,-0.0026269437248128,0.002275,-0.0013134718624064 +cLn part,wMat,0.002275,-0.0013134718624064,0.002275,0.0013134718624064 +cLn part,wMat,0.002275,0.0013134718624064,0,0.0026269437248128 +cLn part,wMat,0,0.0026269437248128,-0.002275,0.0013134718624064 +cLn part,wMat,-0.002275,0.0013134718624064,-0.002275,-0.0013134718624064 +Part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +end sub + +sub codeBag19(part,wMat) +cLn part,wMat,-0.002275,-0.0013134718624064,0,-0.0026269437248128 +cLn part,wMat,0,-0.0026269437248128,0.002275,-0.0013134718624064 +cLn part,wMat,0.002275,-0.0013134718624064,0.002275,0.0013134718624064 +cLn part,wMat,0.002275,0.0013134718624064,0,0.0026269437248128 +cLn part,wMat,0,0.0026269437248128,-0.002275,0.0013134718624064 +cLn part,wMat,-0.002275,0.0013134718624064,-0.002275,-0.0013134718624064 +Part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +end sub + +sub codeBag15(part,featMgr) +part.CreatePlaneFixed2 createVec3d(0,-0.0267,-0.025),createVec3d(1,-0.0267,-0.025),createVec3d(0,-0.0267,0.975),1 +set feat39=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat39.select2 false,0 +part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +part.BlankRefGeom +Set swActiveMat = Part.SketchManager.ActiveSketch +swSketchMat= createMatFromSWMat(swActiveMat.ModelToSketchXForm) +mSkMat=createMat4x4FromValues(1,0,0,0,0,1,0,-1,0,0,-0.0267,-0.025) +wMat=mulMat4x4Mat4x4(swSketchMat,mSkMat) +codeBag16 part,wMat +set feat39=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat39.select2 false,0 +featMgr.FeatureCut3 1,0,0,0,0,0.003,0.003,1,1,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,1,1,false,false,false,0,0,0 +part.CreatePlaneFixed2 createVec3d(0,-0.0267,-0.175),createVec3d(1,-0.0267,-0.175),createVec3d(0,-0.0267,0.825),1 +set feat44=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat44.select2 false,0 +part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +part.BlankRefGeom +Set swActiveMat = Part.SketchManager.ActiveSketch +swSketchMat= createMatFromSWMat(swActiveMat.ModelToSketchXForm) +mSkMat=createMat4x4FromValues(1,0,0,0,0,1,0,-1,0,0,-0.0267,-0.175) +wMat=mulMat4x4Mat4x4(swSketchMat,mSkMat) +codeBag17 part,wMat +set feat44=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat44.select2 false,0 +featMgr.FeatureCut3 1,0,0,0,0,0.003,0.003,1,1,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,1,1,false,false,false,0,0,0 +part.CreatePlaneFixed2 createVec3d(0,-0.0267,-0.325),createVec3d(1,-0.0267,-0.325),createVec3d(0,-0.0267,0.675),1 +set feat45=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat45.select2 false,0 +part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +part.BlankRefGeom +Set swActiveMat = Part.SketchManager.ActiveSketch +swSketchMat= createMatFromSWMat(swActiveMat.ModelToSketchXForm) +mSkMat=createMat4x4FromValues(1,0,0,0,0,1,0,-1,0,0,-0.0267,-0.325) +wMat=mulMat4x4Mat4x4(swSketchMat,mSkMat) +codeBag18 part,wMat +set feat45=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat45.select2 false,0 +featMgr.FeatureCut3 1,0,0,0,0,0.003,0.003,1,1,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,1,1,false,false,false,0,0,0 +part.CreatePlaneFixed2 createVec3d(0,-0.0267,-0.475),createVec3d(1,-0.0267,-0.475),createVec3d(0,-0.0267,0.525),1 +set feat46=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat46.select2 false,0 +part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +part.BlankRefGeom +Set swActiveMat = Part.SketchManager.ActiveSketch +swSketchMat= createMatFromSWMat(swActiveMat.ModelToSketchXForm) +mSkMat=createMat4x4FromValues(1,0,0,0,0,1,0,-1,0,0,-0.0267,-0.475) +wMat=mulMat4x4Mat4x4(swSketchMat,mSkMat) +codeBag19 part,wMat +set feat46=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat46.select2 false,0 +featMgr.FeatureCut3 1,0,0,0,0,0.003,0.003,1,1,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,1,1,false,false,false,0,0,0 +end sub + +sub main +set swApp = Application.SldWorks +code = swApp.RevisionNumber +found = InStr(code, ".") +If (found > 0) Then + code = Left(code, found-1) + docVisible=1 + If (CInt(code) >= 18) Then + docVisible=0 + End If +End If +swApp.SetUserPreferenceToggle 11, FALSE +swApp.SetUserPreferenceToggle 97, FALSE +storePath=BrowseForFolder +If (storePath <> "") Then + If ((Right(storePath, 1) <> "\") And (Right(storePath, 1) <> "/")) Then + storePath = storePath + "\" + End If + createPart0 +End If +end sub diff --git a/sheetpress/components/sprcb-1150-rc2/cad/renderings/200_PressPlate-Global-650-Weldment.JPG b/sheetpress/components/sprcb-1150-rc2/cad/renderings/200_PressPlate-Global-650-Weldment.JPG new file mode 100644 index 000000000..c53f2b316 --- /dev/null +++ b/sheetpress/components/sprcb-1150-rc2/cad/renderings/200_PressPlate-Global-650-Weldment.JPG @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +version https://git-lfs.github.com/spec/v1 +oid sha256:f1762103a212da12c5e283b2f9c6ba4a6eb4792978a6728ac712117999b3029a +size 246098 diff --git a/sheetpress/components/sprcb-1150-rc2/laser/en/Stainless/1mm/SPRCB650-201_PlateCoverTri_x1.dxf b/sheetpress/components/sprcb-1150-rc2/laser/en/Stainless/1mm/SPRCB650-201_PlateCoverTri_x1.dxf new file mode 100644 index 000000000..0079dd673 --- /dev/null +++ b/sheetpress/components/sprcb-1150-rc2/laser/en/Stainless/1mm/SPRCB650-201_PlateCoverTri_x1.dxf @@ -0,0 +1,3308 @@ + 0 +SECTION + 2 +HEADER + 9 +$ACADVER + 1 +AC1015 + 9 +$ACADMAINTVER + 70 + 6 + 9 +$DWGCODEPAGE + 3 +ANSI_1252 + 9 +$INSBASE + 10 +0.0 + 20 +0.0 + 30 +0.0 + 9 +$EXTMIN + 10 +-316.0 + 20 +-316.0 + 30 +0.0 + 9 +$EXTMAX + 10 +316.0 + 20 +316.0 + 30 +0.0 + 9 +$LIMMIN + 10 +0.0 + 20 +0.0 + 9 +$LIMMAX + 10 +420.0 + 20 +297.0 + 9 +$ORTHOMODE + 70 + 0 + 9 +$REGENMODE + 70 + 1 + 9 +$FILLMODE + 70 + 1 + 9 +$QTEXTMODE + 70 + 0 + 9 +$MIRRTEXT + 70 + 1 + 9 +$LTSCALE + 40 +1.0 + 9 +$ATTMODE + 70 + 1 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BIF_NEWDIALOGSTYLE +' set the virtual desktop as ini folder +Private Const IniFolder = &H0 'Virtual Desktop +Function getLastFeatureByType(model,typ) + Set feat = model.FirstFeature ' Get the 1st feature in part + Set res = Nothing + Count = 0 + Do While Not feat Is Nothing ' While we have a valid feature + If feat.GetTypeName() = typ Then + Set res = feat + End If + Set feat = feat.GetNextFeature() ' Get the next feature + Loop ' Continue until no more + Set getLastFeatureByType = res +End Function +' this code with copy a matrix to a other +Function copyMat4x4(source) +Dim res(0 To 15) As Double +For i = 0 To 15 + res(i) = source(i) +Next +copyMat4x4 = res +End Function + +' This code creates a mat from a sw mat +Function createMatFromSWMat(source) + Dim res(0 To 15) As Double + res(0) = source(0) + res(1) = source(1) + res(2) = source(2) + res(3) = 0 + res(4) = source(3) + res(5) = source(4) + res(6) = source(5) + res(7) = 0 + res(8) = source(6) + res(9) = source(7) + res(10) = source(8) + res(11) = 0 + res(12) = source(9) + res(13) = source(10) + res(14) = source(11) + res(15) = source(12) + createMatFromSWMat = res +End Function +Function createSWMatFromMat(source) + Dim res(0 To 15) As Double + res(0) = source(0) + res(1) = source(1) + res(2) = source(2) + res(3) = source(4) + res(4) = source(5) + res(5) = source(6) + res(6) = source(8) + res(7) = source(9) + res(8) = source(10) + res(9) = source(12) + res(10) = source(13) + res(11) = source(14) + res(12) = source(15) + res(13) = 0 + res(14) = 0 + res(15) = 0 + createSWMatFromMat = res +End Function +Function createMat4x4FromValues(x1,x2,x3,y1,y2,y3,z1,z2,z3,t1,t2,t3) + Dim res(0 To 15) As Double + res(0) = x1 + res(1) = x2 + res(2) = x3 + res(3) = 0 + res(4) = y1 + res(5) = y2 + res(6) = y3 + res(7) = 0 + res(8) = z1 + res(9) = z2 + res(10) =z3 + res(11) = 0 + res(12) = t1 + res(13) = t2 + res(14) = t3 + res(15) = 1 + createMat4x4FromValues = res +End Function +' this code will mult a common mat with any other stuff +Function multMatMat(ld, xld, yld, rd, xrd, yrd) + mulRes = yld * xrd + 'Dim od(0 To 0) As Variant + ReDim od(mulRes - 1) As Double + For i = 0 To mulRes - 1 + od(i) = 0# + Next + y = 0 + While y < yld + x = 0 + While x < xrd + i = 0 + While i < xld + od(x * yld + y) = od(x * yld + y) + ld(i * yld + y) * rd(x * yrd + i) + i = i + 1 + Wend + x = x + 1 + Wend + y = y + 1 + Wend + multMatMat = od + +End Function +' this code will mult a vector with a matrix +Function mulMat4x4Values3d(mat, x,y,z) + tmp = createVec4d(x, y, z, 1) + res = multMatMat(mat, 4, 4, tmp, 1, 3) + mulMat4x4Values3d = createVec3d(res(0), res(1), res(2)) +End Function +Function mulMat4x4Vec3d(mat, vec) + tmp = createVec4d(vec(0), vec(1), vec(2), 1) + res = multMatMat(mat, 4, 4, tmp, 1, 3) + mulMat4x4Vec3d = createVec3d(res(0), res(1), res(2)) +End Function +Function mulMat4x4Mat4x4(mat1, mat2) + mulMat4x4Mat4x4 = multMatMat(mat1, 4, 4, mat2, 4, 4) +End Function +' create a 4x4 matrix +Function createMat4x4() + Dim res(0 To 15) As Double + for i = 0 to 15 + res(i) = 0 + next + createMat4x4 = res +End Function +Function createMat4x4Ident() + Dim res(0 To 15) As Double + res(0) = 1 + res(5) = 1 + res(10) = 1 + res(15) = 1 + res(1) = 0 + res(2) = 0 + res(3) = 0 + res(4) = 0 + res(6) = 0 + res(7) = 0 + res(8) = 0 + res(9) = 0 + res(11) = 0 + res(12) = 0 + res(13) = 0 + res(14) = 0 + createMat4x4Ident = res +End Function +' this function create a new vector +Function createVec3d(x, y, z) + Dim res(0 To 2) As Double + res(0) = x + res(1) = y + res(2) = z + createVec3d = res +End Function +' this function create a new vector +Function createVec4d(x, y, z, w) + Dim res(0 To 3) As Double + res(0) = x + res(1) = y + res(2) = z + res(3) = w + createVec4d = res +End Function + +Function getMatTVec(mat) + getMatTVec = createVec3d(mat(12), mat(13), mat(14)) +End Function + +Sub setMatTVec(mat, v) + mat(12) = v(0) + mat(13) = v(1) + mat(14) = v(2) +End Sub +Sub setMatXVec(mat, v) + mat(0) = v(0) + mat(1) = v(1) + mat(2) = v(2) +End Sub +Sub setMatYVec(mat, v) + mat(4) = v(0) + mat(5) = v(1) + mat(6) = v(2) +End Sub +Sub setMatZVec(mat, v) + mat(8) = v(0) + mat(9) = v(1) + mat(10) = v(2) +End Sub +Sub setMatScale(mat, s) + mat(15) = s +End Sub +Function getMatXVec(mat) + getMatXVec = createVec3d(mat(0), mat(1), mat(2)) +End Function +Function getMatYVec(mat) + getMatYVec = createVec3d(mat(4), mat(5), mat(6)) +End Function +Function getMatZVec(mat) + getMatZVec = createVec3d(mat(8), mat(9), mat(10)) +End Function + +Function negVec3d(v) + negVec3d = createVec3d(-v(0), -v(1), -v(2)) +End Function +Function scaleVec3d(v,s) + scaleVec3d = createVec3d(v(0)*s,v(1)*s,v(2)*s) +End Function +' invert a 4x4 matrix +Function invMat4x4(source) +target = copyMat4x4(source) +setMatTVec target, createVec3d(0, 0, 0) + target(1) = source(4) + target(4) = source(1) + target(2) = source(8) + target(8) = source(2) + target(6) = source(9) + target(9) = source(6) + setMatScale target,1 + t = getMatTVec(source) + v = mulMat4x4Vec3d(target, t) + setMatTVec target, negVec3d(v) + invMat4x4 = target +End Function +Function IsEqual(argVec3DA, argVec3DB) + For i = 0 To 2 + If( argVec3DA(i) <> argVec3DB(i) ) Then + Exit For + End If + Next + If(i = 3) Then + IsEqual = 1 + Else + IsEqual = 0 + End If +End Function +Function getFaceFromModel(part, pos, normal) + Dim partBodies As Variant + partBodies = part.GetBodies(swSolidBody) + For k = LBound(partBodies) To UBound(partBodies) + found = 0 + Dim body As Object + Set body = partBodies(k) + Set face = body.GetFirstFace() + Set getFaceFromModel = nothing + minDist = -1 + Do While Not face Is Nothing ' While we have a valid feature + Set sur = face.GetSurface() + If sur.IsPlane() Then + planePara = sur.PlaneParams + faceNormal = face.normal + nTest = faceNormal(0) * normal(0) + faceNormal(1) * normal(1) + faceNormal(2) * normal(2) + If nTest > 1 - 0.000001 Then + ' check projection + closeRes = face.GetClosestPointOn(pos(0), pos(1), pos(2)) + dTest = (pos(0) - closeRes(0)) * (pos(0) - closeRes(0)) + (pos(1) - closeRes(1)) * (pos(1) - closeRes(1)) + (pos(2) - closeRes(2)) * (pos(2) - closeRes(2)) + If ( dTest < minDist Or minDist = -1 ) Then + Set getFaceFromModel = face + minDist = dTest + found=1 + End If + End If + else + If sur.IsCylinder() then + closeRes = face.GetClosestPointOn(pos(0), pos(1), pos(2)) + dTest = (pos(0) - closeRes(0)) * (pos(0) - closeRes(0)) + (pos(1) - closeRes(1)) * (pos(1) - closeRes(1)) + (pos(2) - closeRes(2)) * (pos(2) - closeRes(2)) + If ( dTest < minDist Or minDist = -1 ) Then + res=sur.EvaluateAtPoint(closeRes(0),closeRes(1),closeRes(2)) + nTest=res(0)*normal(0)+res(1)*normal(1)+res(2)*normal(2) + if nTest>1-0.00000001 then + Set getFaceFromModel = face + found=1 + End if + End if + End if + End if + Set face = face.GetNextFace ' Get the next Face + Loop + If (found = 1) Then + Exit For + End If + Next k +End Function +Function getEdgeFromModel(part, pos,byref edgeRet) + Dim partBodies As Variant + partBodies = part.GetBodies(swSolidBody) + For k = LBound(partBodies) To UBound(partBodies) + Dim body As Object + Set body = partBodies(k) + edges= body.GetEdges() + start= LBound(edges) + ende = UBound(edges) + For i = start To ende + Set edge = edges(i) + closeRes=edge.GetClosestPointOn(pos(0),pos(1),pos(2)) + dTest = (pos(0) - closeRes(0)) * (pos(0) - closeRes(0)) + (pos(1) - closeRes(1)) * (pos(1) - closeRes(1)) + (pos(2) - closeRes(2)) * (pos(2) - closeRes(2)) + If dTest < 0.00000001 Then + set edgeRet=edge + getEdgeFromModel=true + exit function + End If + Next i + Next k + getEdgeFromModel=false +End Function +sub cLn(part,wMat,x1,y1,x2,y2) +pk1=mulMat4x4Values3d(wMat,x1,y1,0) +pk2=mulMat4x4Values3d(wMat,x2,y2,0) +Part.SketchManager.CreateLine pk1(0),pk1(1),0,pk2(0),pk2(1),0 +end sub +sub cCLn(part,wMat,x1,y1,x2,y2) +pk1=mulMat4x4Values3d(wMat,x1,y1,0) +pk2=mulMat4x4Values3d(wMat,x2,y2,0) +Part.CreateCenterLineVB pk1(0),pk1(1),0,pk2(0),pk2(1),0 +end sub +sub cArc(part,wMat,x1,y1,x2,y2,x3,y3) +pk1=mulMat4x4Values3d(wMat,x1,y1,0) +pk2=mulMat4x4Values3d(wMat,x2,y2,0) +pk3=mulMat4x4Values3d(wMat,x3,y3,0) +Part.SketchManager.Create3PointArc pk1(0),pk1(1),0,pk3(0),pk3(1),0,pk2(0),pk2(1),0 +end sub +sub cCir(part,wMat,x1,y1,rad) +pk1=mulMat4x4Values3d(wMat,x1,y1,0) +Part.SketchManager.CreateCircleByRadius pk1(0),pk1(1),0,rad +end sub +Public Function BrowseForFolder +Dim objFolder, objShell +Set objShell = CreateObject("Shell.Application") +Set objFolder = objShell.BrowseForFolder(0, "Please select the folder..", BIF_BrowseFolder, IniFolder) +If Not (objFolder Is Nothing) Then + BrowseForFolder = objFolder.Self.path +End If +End Function +Sub SelectCommonEdge(argFaceA, argFaceB) + edgesA = argFaceA.GetEdges + edgesB = argFaceB.GetEdges + For Each edgeA In edgesA + Set vertexA1 = edgeA.GetStartVertex + Set vertexA2 = edgeA.GetEndVertex + pointA1 = vertexA1.GetPoint + pointA2 = vertexA2.GetPoint + For Each edgeB In edgesB + Set vertexB1 = edgeB.GetStartVertex + Set vertexB2 = edgeB.GetEndVertex + pointB1 = vertexB1.GetPoint + pointB2 = vertexB2.GetPoint + If ( (IsEqual(pointA1, pointB1) And IsEqual(pointA2, pointB2)) Or (IsEqual(pointA1, pointB2) And IsEqual(pointA2, pointB1)) ) Then + edgeA.Select(True) + Exit Sub + End If + Next + Next +End Sub +Sub CreatePart0 +dim errors as long +dim warnings as long +Dim longstatus As Long +if (docVisible=0) then + swApp.DocumentVisible 0, 1 +end if +set res=swApp.OpenDoc6 ( storePath & "SBR20UU.sldprt",1,3,"", errors, warnings) +swApp.ActivateDoc2 "SBR20UU.sldprt", False, longstatus +if not res is nothing then + if (docVisible=0) then + swApp.DocumentVisible 1, 1 + end if + exit sub +end if +if (docVisible=0) then + swApp.DocumentVisible 1, 1 +end if +Dim sPartTemplateName As String +sPartTemplateName = swApp.GetUserPreferenceStringValue(8) +Set part = swApp.NewDocument(sPartTemplateName, 0, 0, 0) +swApp.ActivateDoc2 "SBR20UU.sldprt", False, longstatus +Set part = swApp.ActiveDoc +part.SketchManager.AddToDB = true +part.SketchManager.DisplayWhenAdded = false +part.ActiveView.EnableGraphicsUpdate = false +Set modelExt = part.Extension +Set customPropMgr = modelExt.CustomPropertyManager("") +customPropMgr.Add2 "NB", 30, "SBR20UU" +customPropMgr.Add2 "NN", 30, "SBR" +customPropMgr.Add2 "NT", 30, "Linear Motion Ball Bearing Slide Units" +customPropMgr.Add2 "NBSYN", 30, "$CNSTYPECODE." +customPropMgr.Add2 "LINA", 30, "SBR20UU" +customPropMgr.Add2 "CATALOG", 30, "YTP" +customPropMgr.Add2 "MODEL", 30, "SBR20UU" +customPropMgr.Add2 "IB", 30, "LM20UU-OP" +customPropMgr.Add2 "SD", 30, "20" +customPropMgr.Add2 "H", 30, "23" +customPropMgr.Add2 "E", 30, "24.0" +customPropMgr.Add2 "W", 30, "48" +customPropMgr.Add2 "L", 30, "50" +customPropMgr.Add2 "F", 30, "39.0" +customPropMgr.Add2 "T", 30, "11.0" +customPropMgr.Add2 "HH1", 30, "10.0" +customPropMgr.Add2 "ANG", 30, "60" +customPropMgr.Add2 "B", 30, "35.0" +customPropMgr.Add2 "C", 30, "35" +customPropMgr.Add2 "S", 30, "M6" +customPropMgr.Add2 "I", 30, "12" +customPropMgr.Add2 "CC", 30, "88" +customPropMgr.Add2 "CO", 30, "140" +customPropMgr.Add2 "WEIGHT", 30, "0.200" +customPropMgr.Add2 "PS", 30, "GBT/16940-2012" +customPropMgr.Add2 "MAT1", 30, "6063 Aluminium Alloy" +customPropMgr.Add2 "TS1", 30, "Natural Anodic Oxidation (Conventional)" +customPropMgr.Add2 "TS2", 30, "Black Anodic Oxidation Treatment (Customized)" +customPropMgr.Add2 "TEMPERATUER", 30, "-20~80" +customPropMgr.Add2 "SUPPLIER", 30, "YTP" +customPropMgr.Add2 "ARTICLENO", 30, "SBR20UU" +customPropMgr.Add2 "BOMINFO", 30, "SBR20UU" +customPropMgr.Add2 "CREATOR", 30, "CADENAS GmbH" +customPropMgr.Add2 "IsFastener", 30, "0" +part.SummaryInfo(0)="SBR20UU" +part.SummaryInfo(4)="Linear Motion Ball Bearing Slide Units" +part.SummaryInfo(2)="Cadenas PARTsolutions" +valRGB=part.MaterialPropertyValues +valRGB(0)=0.75 +valRGB(1)=0.75 +valRGB(2)=0.75 +valRGB(7)=0 +part.MaterialPropertyValues=valRGB +Dim featMgr as object +set featMgr = part.FeatureManager +codeBag0 part,featMgr +part.ActiveView.EnableGraphicsUpdate = true +part.SketchManager.DisplayWhenAdded = true +part.SketchManager.AddToDB = false +part.EditRebuild3 +part.Rebuild swRebuildAll +Set modelExt = part.Extension +modelExt.SaveAs storePath & "SBR20UU.sldprt",0,0,nothing,errors,warnings +End Sub +sub codeBag1(part,wMat) +cLn part,wMat,-0.024,0.022,-0.024,0.012 +cLn part,wMat,-0.024,0.012,-0.0225,0.0105 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0225,0.0105,-0.0225,-0.0144 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0225,-0.0144,-0.0215,-0.0154 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0215,-0.0154,-0.0095840144685478,-0.0154 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0095840144685478,-0.0154,-0.0055106071276578,-0.0083446515256545 +cArc part,wMat,-0.0055106071276578,-0.0083446515256545,3.9497954175685e-18,0.01,0.0055106071276578,-0.0083446515256545 +cLn part,wMat,0.0055106071276578,-0.0083446515256545,0.0095840144685478,-0.0154 +cLn part,wMat,0.0095840144685478,-0.0154,0.0215,-0.0154 +cLn part,wMat,0.0215,-0.0154,0.0225,-0.0144 +cLn part,wMat,0.0225,-0.0144,0.0225,0.0105 +cLn part,wMat,0.0225,0.0105,0.024,0.012 +cLn part,wMat,0.024,0.012,0.024,0.022 +cLn part,wMat,0.024,0.022,0.023,0.023 +cLn part,wMat,0.023,0.023,0.0105,0.023 +cLn part,wMat,0.0105,0.023,0.0095,0.022 +cLn part,wMat,0.0095,0.022,-0.0095,0.022 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0095,0.022,-0.0105,0.023 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0105,0.023,-0.023,0.023 +cLn part,wMat,-0.023,0.023,-0.024,0.022 +Part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +end sub + +sub codeBag2(part,wMat) +cLn part,wMat,-0.0215,-0.016,-0.009237604307034,-0.016 +cLn part,wMat,-0.009237604307034,-0.016,-0.005,-0.0086602540378444 +cArc part,wMat,-0.005,-0.0086602540378444,-0.00525767218305,-0.0085062849244298,-0.0055106071276578,-0.0083446515256545 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0055106071276578,-0.0083446515256545,-0.0095840144685478,-0.0154 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0095840144685478,-0.0154,-0.0215,-0.0154 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0215,-0.0154,-0.0215,-0.016 +Part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +end sub + +sub codeBag3(part,wMat) +cLn part,wMat,0.005,-0.0086602540378444,0.009237604307034,-0.016 +cLn part,wMat,0.009237604307034,-0.016,0.0215,-0.016 +cLn part,wMat,0.0215,-0.016,0.0215,-0.0154 +cLn part,wMat,0.0215,-0.0154,0.0095840144685478,-0.0154 +cLn part,wMat,0.0095840144685478,-0.0154,0.0055106071276578,-0.0083446515256545 +cArc part,wMat,0.0055106071276578,-0.0083446515256545,0.00525767218305,-0.0085062849244298,0.005,-0.0086602540378444 +Part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +end sub + +sub codeBag4(part,wMat) +cCir part,wMat,0.0175,0.0175,0.0025 +cLn part,wMat,0.0155,0.017,0.016633974596216,0.017 +cArc part,wMat,0.016633974596216,0.017,0.016792893218813,0.016792893218813,0.017,0.016633974596216 +cLn part,wMat,0.017,0.016633974596216,0.017,0.0155 +cLn part,wMat,0.017,0.0155,0.018,0.0155 +cLn part,wMat,0.018,0.0155,0.018,0.016633974596216 +cArc part,wMat,0.018,0.016633974596216,0.018207106781187,0.016792893218813,0.018366025403784,0.017 +cLn part,wMat,0.018366025403784,0.017,0.0195,0.017 +cLn part,wMat,0.0195,0.017,0.0195,0.018 +cLn part,wMat,0.0195,0.018,0.018366025403784,0.018 +cArc part,wMat,0.018366025403784,0.018,0.018207106781187,0.018207106781187,0.018,0.018366025403784 +cLn part,wMat,0.018,0.018366025403784,0.018,0.0195 +cLn part,wMat,0.018,0.0195,0.017,0.0195 +cLn part,wMat,0.017,0.0195,0.017,0.018366025403784 +cArc part,wMat,0.017,0.018366025403784,0.016792893218813,0.018207106781187,0.016633974596216,0.018 +cLn part,wMat,0.016633974596216,0.018,0.0155,0.018 +cLn part,wMat,0.0155,0.018,0.0155,0.017 +Part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +end sub + +sub codeBag5(part,wMat) +cCir part,wMat,0.0175,-0.0175,0.0025 +cLn part,wMat,0.0155,-0.017,0.0155,-0.018 +cLn part,wMat,0.0155,-0.018,0.016633974596216,-0.018 +cArc part,wMat,0.016633974596216,-0.018,0.016792893218813,-0.018207106781187,0.017,-0.018366025403784 +cLn part,wMat,0.017,-0.018366025403784,0.017,-0.0195 +cLn part,wMat,0.017,-0.0195,0.018,-0.0195 +cLn part,wMat,0.018,-0.0195,0.018,-0.018366025403784 +cArc part,wMat,0.018,-0.018366025403784,0.018207106781187,-0.018207106781187,0.018366025403784,-0.018 +cLn part,wMat,0.018366025403784,-0.018,0.0195,-0.018 +cLn part,wMat,0.0195,-0.018,0.0195,-0.017 +cLn part,wMat,0.0195,-0.017,0.018366025403784,-0.017 +cArc part,wMat,0.018366025403784,-0.017,0.018207106781187,-0.016792893218813,0.018,-0.016633974596216 +cLn part,wMat,0.018,-0.016633974596216,0.018,-0.0155 +cLn part,wMat,0.018,-0.0155,0.017,-0.0155 +cLn part,wMat,0.017,-0.0155,0.017,-0.016633974596216 +cArc part,wMat,0.017,-0.016633974596216,0.016792893218813,-0.016792893218813,0.016633974596216,-0.017 +cLn part,wMat,0.016633974596216,-0.017,0.0155,-0.017 +Part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +end sub + +sub codeBag6(part,wMat) +cCir part,wMat,-0.0175,0.0175,0.0025 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0195,0.018,-0.0195,0.017 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0195,0.017,-0.018366025403784,0.017 +cArc part,wMat,-0.018366025403784,0.017,-0.018207106781187,0.016792893218813,-0.018,0.016633974596216 +cLn part,wMat,-0.018,0.016633974596216,-0.018,0.0155 +cLn part,wMat,-0.018,0.0155,-0.017,0.0155 +cLn part,wMat,-0.017,0.0155,-0.017,0.016633974596216 +cArc part,wMat,-0.017,0.016633974596216,-0.016792893218813,0.016792893218813,-0.016633974596216,0.017 +cLn part,wMat,-0.016633974596216,0.017,-0.0155,0.017 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0155,0.017,-0.0155,0.018 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0155,0.018,-0.016633974596216,0.018 +cArc part,wMat,-0.016633974596216,0.018,-0.016792893218813,0.018207106781187,-0.017,0.018366025403784 +cLn part,wMat,-0.017,0.018366025403784,-0.017,0.0195 +cLn part,wMat,-0.017,0.0195,-0.018,0.0195 +cLn part,wMat,-0.018,0.0195,-0.018,0.018366025403784 +cArc part,wMat,-0.018,0.018366025403784,-0.018207106781187,0.018207106781187,-0.018366025403784,0.018 +cLn part,wMat,-0.018366025403784,0.018,-0.0195,0.018 +Part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +end sub + +sub codeBag7(part,wMat) +cCir part,wMat,-0.0175,-0.0175,0.0025 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0195,-0.018,-0.018366025403784,-0.018 +cArc part,wMat,-0.018366025403784,-0.018,-0.018207106781187,-0.018207106781187,-0.018,-0.018366025403784 +cLn part,wMat,-0.018,-0.018366025403784,-0.018,-0.0195 +cLn part,wMat,-0.018,-0.0195,-0.017,-0.0195 +cLn part,wMat,-0.017,-0.0195,-0.017,-0.018366025403784 +cArc part,wMat,-0.017,-0.018366025403784,-0.016792893218813,-0.018207106781187,-0.016633974596216,-0.018 +cLn part,wMat,-0.016633974596216,-0.018,-0.0155,-0.018 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0155,-0.018,-0.0155,-0.017 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0155,-0.017,-0.016633974596216,-0.017 +cArc part,wMat,-0.016633974596216,-0.017,-0.016792893218813,-0.016792893218813,-0.017,-0.016633974596216 +cLn part,wMat,-0.017,-0.016633974596216,-0.017,-0.0155 +cLn part,wMat,-0.017,-0.0155,-0.018,-0.0155 +cLn part,wMat,-0.018,-0.0155,-0.018,-0.016633974596216 +cArc part,wMat,-0.018,-0.016633974596216,-0.018207106781187,-0.016792893218813,-0.018366025403784,-0.017 +cLn part,wMat,-0.018366025403784,-0.017,-0.0195,-0.017 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0195,-0.017,-0.0195,-0.018 +Part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +end sub + +sub codeBag8(part,wMat) +cLn part,wMat,-0.0175,0.023,-0.0145,0.023 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0145,0.023,-0.0150415,0.0224585 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0150415,0.0224585,-0.0150415,0.011 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0150415,0.011,-0.0175,0.011 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0175,0.011,-0.0175,0.023 +cCLn part,wMat,-0.0175,0.011,-0.0175,0.023 +Part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +end sub + +sub codeBag9(part,wMat) +cLn part,wMat,-0.0175,0.023,-0.0145,0.023 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0145,0.023,-0.0150415,0.0224585 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0150415,0.0224585,-0.0150415,0.011 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0150415,0.011,-0.0175,0.011 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0175,0.011,-0.0175,0.023 +cCLn part,wMat,-0.0175,0.011,-0.0175,0.023 +Part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +end sub + +sub codeBag10(part,wMat) +cLn part,wMat,-0.0175,0.023,-0.0145,0.023 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0145,0.023,-0.0150415,0.0224585 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0150415,0.0224585,-0.0150415,0.011 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0150415,0.011,-0.0175,0.011 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0175,0.011,-0.0175,0.023 +cCLn part,wMat,-0.0175,0.011,-0.0175,0.023 +Part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +end sub + +sub codeBag11(part,wMat) +cLn part,wMat,-0.0175,0.023,-0.0145,0.023 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0145,0.023,-0.0150415,0.0224585 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0150415,0.0224585,-0.0150415,0.011 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0150415,0.011,-0.0175,0.011 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0175,0.011,-0.0175,0.023 +cCLn part,wMat,-0.0175,0.011,-0.0175,0.023 +Part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +end sub + +sub codeBag0(part,featMgr) +part.CreatePlaneFixed2 createVec3d(0,0,0),createVec3d(0,0,-1),createVec3d(0,1,0),1 +set feat4=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat4.select2 false,0 +part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +part.BlankRefGeom +Set swActiveMat = Part.SketchManager.ActiveSketch +swSketchMat= createMatFromSWMat(swActiveMat.ModelToSketchXForm) +mSkMat=createMat4x4FromValues(0,0,-1,0,1,0,1,0,0,0,0,0) +wMat=mulMat4x4Mat4x4(swSketchMat,mSkMat) +codeBag1 part,wMat +set feat4=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat4.select2 false,0 +featMgr.FeatureExtrusion2 0,0,1,0,0,0.025,0.025,1,1,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,1,1,1,0,0,0 +part.CreatePlaneFixed2 createVec3d(0,0,0),createVec3d(0,0,-1),createVec3d(0,1,0),1 +set feat6=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat6.select2 false,0 +part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +part.BlankRefGeom +Set swActiveMat = Part.SketchManager.ActiveSketch +swSketchMat= createMatFromSWMat(swActiveMat.ModelToSketchXForm) +mSkMat=createMat4x4FromValues(0,0,-1,0,1,0,1,0,0,0,0,0) +wMat=mulMat4x4Mat4x4(swSketchMat,mSkMat) +codeBag2 part,wMat +set feat6=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat6.select2 false,0 +featMgr.FeatureExtrusion2 0,0,1,0,0,0.0225,0.0225,1,1,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,1,1,1,0,0,0 +part.CreatePlaneFixed2 createVec3d(0,0,0),createVec3d(0,0,-1),createVec3d(0,1,0),1 +set feat8=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat8.select2 false,0 +part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +part.BlankRefGeom +Set swActiveMat = Part.SketchManager.ActiveSketch +swSketchMat= createMatFromSWMat(swActiveMat.ModelToSketchXForm) +mSkMat=createMat4x4FromValues(0,0,-1,0,1,0,1,0,0,0,0,0) +wMat=mulMat4x4Mat4x4(swSketchMat,mSkMat) +codeBag3 part,wMat +set feat8=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat8.select2 false,0 +featMgr.FeatureExtrusion2 0,0,1,0,0,0.0225,0.0225,1,1,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,1,1,1,0,0,0 +part.CreatePlaneFixed2 createVec3d(0,-0.016,0),createVec3d(1,-0.016,0),createVec3d(0,-0.016,-1),1 +set feat11=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat11.select2 false,0 +part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +part.BlankRefGeom +Set swActiveMat = Part.SketchManager.ActiveSketch +swSketchMat= createMatFromSWMat(swActiveMat.ModelToSketchXForm) +mSkMat=createMat4x4FromValues(1,0,0,0,0,-1,0,1,0,0,-0.016,0) +wMat=mulMat4x4Mat4x4(swSketchMat,mSkMat) +codeBag4 part,wMat +set feat11=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat11.select2 false,0 +featMgr.FeatureExtrusion2 1,0,1,0,0,0.0005,0.0005,1,1,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,1,1,1,0,0,0 +part.CreatePlaneFixed2 createVec3d(0,-0.016,0),createVec3d(1,-0.016,0),createVec3d(0,-0.016,-1),1 +set feat13=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat13.select2 false,0 +part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +part.BlankRefGeom +Set swActiveMat = Part.SketchManager.ActiveSketch +swSketchMat= createMatFromSWMat(swActiveMat.ModelToSketchXForm) +mSkMat=createMat4x4FromValues(1,0,0,0,0,-1,0,1,0,0,-0.016,0) +wMat=mulMat4x4Mat4x4(swSketchMat,mSkMat) +codeBag5 part,wMat +set feat13=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat13.select2 false,0 +featMgr.FeatureExtrusion2 1,0,1,0,0,0.0005,0.0005,1,1,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,1,1,1,0,0,0 +part.CreatePlaneFixed2 createVec3d(0,-0.016,0),createVec3d(1,-0.016,0),createVec3d(0,-0.016,-1),1 +set feat15=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat15.select2 false,0 +part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +part.BlankRefGeom +Set swActiveMat = Part.SketchManager.ActiveSketch +swSketchMat= createMatFromSWMat(swActiveMat.ModelToSketchXForm) +mSkMat=createMat4x4FromValues(1,0,0,0,0,-1,0,1,0,0,-0.016,0) +wMat=mulMat4x4Mat4x4(swSketchMat,mSkMat) +codeBag6 part,wMat +set feat15=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat15.select2 false,0 +featMgr.FeatureExtrusion2 1,0,1,0,0,0.0005,0.0005,1,1,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,1,1,1,0,0,0 +part.CreatePlaneFixed2 createVec3d(0,-0.016,0),createVec3d(1,-0.016,0),createVec3d(0,-0.016,-1),1 +set feat17=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat17.select2 false,0 +part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +part.BlankRefGeom +Set swActiveMat = Part.SketchManager.ActiveSketch +swSketchMat= createMatFromSWMat(swActiveMat.ModelToSketchXForm) +mSkMat=createMat4x4FromValues(1,0,0,0,0,-1,0,1,0,0,-0.016,0) +wMat=mulMat4x4Mat4x4(swSketchMat,mSkMat) +codeBag7 part,wMat +set feat17=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat17.select2 false,0 +featMgr.FeatureExtrusion2 1,0,1,0,0,0.0005,0.0005,1,1,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,1,1,1,0,0,0 +part.CreatePlaneFixed2 createVec3d(0.0175,0,0),createVec3d(0.0175,0,-1),createVec3d(0.0175,1,0),1 +set feat22=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat22.select2 false,0 +part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +part.BlankRefGeom +Set swActiveMat = Part.SketchManager.ActiveSketch +swSketchMat= createMatFromSWMat(swActiveMat.ModelToSketchXForm) +mSkMat=createMat4x4FromValues(0,0,-1,0,1,0,1,0,0,0.0175,0,0) +wMat=mulMat4x4Mat4x4(swSketchMat,mSkMat) +codeBag8 part,wMat +set feat22=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat22.select2 false,0 +featMgr.FeatureRevolveCut2 6.2831853071796,1,6.2831853071796,0,0,1,1,false,false,false + if getEdgeFromModel(part,createVec3d(0.0175,0.0224585,0.0150415),cylEdge) then + cylEdge.Select(false) + Part.InsertCosmeticThread 0,0.006,0.012,"" + elseif getEdgeFromModel(part,createVec3d(0.0175,0.011,0.0150415),cylEdge) then + cylEdge.Select(false) + Part.InsertCosmeticThread 0,0.006,0.012,"" + End If +part.CreatePlaneFixed2 createVec3d(-0.0175,0,0),createVec3d(-0.0175,0,-1),createVec3d(-0.0175,1,0),1 +set feat28=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat28.select2 false,0 +part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +part.BlankRefGeom +Set swActiveMat = Part.SketchManager.ActiveSketch +swSketchMat= createMatFromSWMat(swActiveMat.ModelToSketchXForm) +mSkMat=createMat4x4FromValues(0,0,-1,0,1,0,1,0,0,-0.0175,0,0) +wMat=mulMat4x4Mat4x4(swSketchMat,mSkMat) +codeBag9 part,wMat +set feat28=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat28.select2 false,0 +featMgr.FeatureRevolveCut2 6.2831853071796,1,6.2831853071796,0,0,1,1,false,false,false + if getEdgeFromModel(part,createVec3d(-0.0175,0.0224585,0.0150415),cylEdge) then + cylEdge.Select(false) + Part.InsertCosmeticThread 0,0.006,0.012,"" + elseif getEdgeFromModel(part,createVec3d(-0.0175,0.011,0.0150415),cylEdge) then + cylEdge.Select(false) + Part.InsertCosmeticThread 0,0.006,0.012,"" + End If +part.CreatePlaneFixed2 createVec3d(0.0175,0,-0.035),createVec3d(0.0175,0,-1.035),createVec3d(0.0175,1,-0.035),1 +set feat29=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat29.select2 false,0 +part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +part.BlankRefGeom +Set swActiveMat = Part.SketchManager.ActiveSketch +swSketchMat= createMatFromSWMat(swActiveMat.ModelToSketchXForm) +mSkMat=createMat4x4FromValues(0,0,-1,0,1,0,1,0,0,0.0175,0,-0.035) +wMat=mulMat4x4Mat4x4(swSketchMat,mSkMat) +codeBag10 part,wMat +set feat29=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat29.select2 false,0 +featMgr.FeatureRevolveCut2 6.2831853071796,1,6.2831853071796,0,0,1,1,false,false,false + if getEdgeFromModel(part,createVec3d(0.0175,0.0224585,-0.0199585),cylEdge) then + cylEdge.Select(false) + Part.InsertCosmeticThread 0,0.006,0.012,"" + elseif getEdgeFromModel(part,createVec3d(0.0175,0.011,-0.0199585),cylEdge) then + cylEdge.Select(false) + Part.InsertCosmeticThread 0,0.006,0.012,"" + End If +part.CreatePlaneFixed2 createVec3d(-0.0175,0,-0.035),createVec3d(-0.0175,0,-1.035),createVec3d(-0.0175,1,-0.035),1 +set feat30=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat30.select2 false,0 +part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +part.BlankRefGeom +Set swActiveMat = Part.SketchManager.ActiveSketch +swSketchMat= createMatFromSWMat(swActiveMat.ModelToSketchXForm) +mSkMat=createMat4x4FromValues(0,0,-1,0,1,0,1,0,0,-0.0175,0,-0.035) +wMat=mulMat4x4Mat4x4(swSketchMat,mSkMat) +codeBag11 part,wMat +set feat30=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat30.select2 false,0 +featMgr.FeatureRevolveCut2 6.2831853071796,1,6.2831853071796,0,0,1,1,false,false,false + if getEdgeFromModel(part,createVec3d(-0.0175,0.0224585,-0.0199585),cylEdge) then + cylEdge.Select(false) + Part.InsertCosmeticThread 0,0.006,0.012,"" + elseif getEdgeFromModel(part,createVec3d(-0.0175,0.011,-0.0199585),cylEdge) then + cylEdge.Select(false) + Part.InsertCosmeticThread 0,0.006,0.012,"" + End If +end sub + +sub main +set swApp = Application.SldWorks +code = swApp.RevisionNumber +found = InStr(code, ".") +If (found > 0) Then + code = Left(code, found-1) + docVisible=1 + If (CInt(code) >= 18) Then + docVisible=0 + End If +End If +swApp.SetUserPreferenceToggle 11, FALSE +swApp.SetUserPreferenceToggle 97, FALSE +storePath=BrowseForFolder +If (storePath <> "") Then + If ((Right(storePath, 1) <> "\") And (Right(storePath, 1) <> "/")) Then + storePath = storePath + "\" + End If + createPart0 +End If +end sub diff --git a/sheetpress/components/sprcb-1300-rc1/cad/rails/SBSg620-500L (25 3).stp b/sheetpress/components/sprcb-1300-rc1/cad/rails/SBSg620-500L (25 3).stp new file mode 100644 index 000000000..819e2a4da --- /dev/null +++ b/sheetpress/components/sprcb-1300-rc1/cad/rails/SBSg620-500L (25 3).stp @@ -0,0 +1,3226 @@ +ISO-10303-21; +HEADER; +FILE_DESCRIPTION( ( 'STEP AP214' ), '1' ); +FILE_NAME( 'p:/temp/worker_17/temp/exporttempdir_5020_294_RhhAk/format_0/SBSg620-500L (25 3).stp', '2021-10-14T09:31:31', ( 'License CC BY-ND 4.0' ), ( 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feat = model.FirstFeature ' Get the 1st feature in part + Set res = Nothing + Count = 0 + Do While Not feat Is Nothing ' While we have a valid feature + If feat.GetTypeName() = typ Then + Set res = feat + End If + Set feat = feat.GetNextFeature() ' Get the next feature + Loop ' Continue until no more + Set getLastFeatureByType = res +End Function +' this code with copy a matrix to a other +Function copyMat4x4(source) +Dim res(0 To 15) As Double +For i = 0 To 15 + res(i) = source(i) +Next +copyMat4x4 = res +End Function + +' This code creates a mat from a sw mat +Function createMatFromSWMat(source) + Dim res(0 To 15) As Double + res(0) = source(0) + res(1) = source(1) + res(2) = source(2) + res(3) = 0 + res(4) = source(3) + res(5) = source(4) + res(6) = source(5) + res(7) = 0 + res(8) = source(6) + res(9) = source(7) + res(10) = source(8) + res(11) = 0 + res(12) = source(9) + res(13) = source(10) + res(14) = source(11) + res(15) = source(12) + createMatFromSWMat = res +End Function +Function createSWMatFromMat(source) + Dim res(0 To 15) As Double + res(0) = source(0) + res(1) = source(1) + res(2) = source(2) + res(3) = source(4) + res(4) = source(5) + res(5) = source(6) + res(6) = source(8) + res(7) = source(9) + res(8) = source(10) + res(9) = source(12) + res(10) = source(13) + res(11) = source(14) + res(12) = source(15) + res(13) = 0 + res(14) = 0 + res(15) = 0 + createSWMatFromMat = res +End Function +Function createMat4x4FromValues(x1,x2,x3,y1,y2,y3,z1,z2,z3,t1,t2,t3) + Dim res(0 To 15) As Double + res(0) = x1 + res(1) = x2 + res(2) = x3 + res(3) = 0 + res(4) = y1 + res(5) = y2 + res(6) = y3 + res(7) = 0 + res(8) = z1 + res(9) = z2 + res(10) =z3 + res(11) = 0 + res(12) = t1 + res(13) = t2 + res(14) = t3 + res(15) = 1 + createMat4x4FromValues = res +End Function +' this code will mult a common mat with any other stuff +Function multMatMat(ld, xld, yld, rd, xrd, yrd) + mulRes = yld * xrd + 'Dim od(0 To 0) As Variant + ReDim od(mulRes - 1) As Double + For i = 0 To mulRes - 1 + od(i) = 0# + Next + y = 0 + While y < yld + x = 0 + While x < xrd + i = 0 + While i < xld + od(x * yld + y) = od(x * yld + y) + ld(i * yld + y) * rd(x * yrd + i) + i = i + 1 + Wend + x = x + 1 + Wend + y = y + 1 + Wend + multMatMat = od + +End Function +' this code will mult a vector with a matrix +Function mulMat4x4Values3d(mat, x,y,z) + tmp = createVec4d(x, y, z, 1) + res = multMatMat(mat, 4, 4, tmp, 1, 3) + mulMat4x4Values3d = createVec3d(res(0), res(1), res(2)) +End Function +Function mulMat4x4Vec3d(mat, vec) + tmp = createVec4d(vec(0), vec(1), vec(2), 1) + res = multMatMat(mat, 4, 4, tmp, 1, 3) + mulMat4x4Vec3d = createVec3d(res(0), res(1), res(2)) +End Function +Function mulMat4x4Mat4x4(mat1, mat2) + mulMat4x4Mat4x4 = multMatMat(mat1, 4, 4, mat2, 4, 4) +End Function +' create a 4x4 matrix +Function createMat4x4() + Dim res(0 To 15) As Double + for i = 0 to 15 + res(i) = 0 + next + createMat4x4 = res +End Function +Function createMat4x4Ident() + Dim res(0 To 15) As Double + res(0) = 1 + res(5) = 1 + res(10) = 1 + res(15) = 1 + res(1) = 0 + res(2) = 0 + res(3) = 0 + res(4) = 0 + res(6) = 0 + res(7) = 0 + res(8) = 0 + res(9) = 0 + res(11) = 0 + res(12) = 0 + res(13) = 0 + res(14) = 0 + createMat4x4Ident = res +End Function +' this function create a new vector +Function createVec3d(x, y, z) + Dim res(0 To 2) As Double + res(0) = x + res(1) = y + res(2) = z + createVec3d = res +End Function +' this function create a new vector +Function createVec4d(x, y, z, w) + Dim res(0 To 3) As Double + res(0) = x + res(1) = y + res(2) = z + res(3) = w + createVec4d = res +End Function + +Function getMatTVec(mat) + getMatTVec = createVec3d(mat(12), mat(13), mat(14)) +End Function + +Sub setMatTVec(mat, v) + mat(12) = v(0) + mat(13) = v(1) + mat(14) = v(2) +End Sub +Sub setMatXVec(mat, v) + mat(0) = v(0) + mat(1) = v(1) + mat(2) = v(2) +End Sub +Sub setMatYVec(mat, v) + mat(4) = v(0) + mat(5) = v(1) + mat(6) = v(2) +End Sub +Sub setMatZVec(mat, v) + mat(8) = v(0) + mat(9) = v(1) + mat(10) = v(2) +End Sub +Sub setMatScale(mat, s) + mat(15) = s +End Sub +Function getMatXVec(mat) + getMatXVec = createVec3d(mat(0), mat(1), mat(2)) +End Function +Function getMatYVec(mat) + getMatYVec = createVec3d(mat(4), mat(5), mat(6)) +End Function +Function getMatZVec(mat) + getMatZVec = createVec3d(mat(8), mat(9), mat(10)) +End Function + +Function negVec3d(v) + negVec3d = createVec3d(-v(0), -v(1), -v(2)) +End Function +Function scaleVec3d(v,s) + scaleVec3d = createVec3d(v(0)*s,v(1)*s,v(2)*s) +End Function +' invert a 4x4 matrix +Function invMat4x4(source) +target = copyMat4x4(source) +setMatTVec target, createVec3d(0, 0, 0) + target(1) = source(4) + target(4) = source(1) + target(2) = source(8) + target(8) = source(2) + target(6) = source(9) + target(9) = source(6) + setMatScale target,1 + t = getMatTVec(source) + v = mulMat4x4Vec3d(target, t) + setMatTVec target, negVec3d(v) + invMat4x4 = target +End Function +Function IsEqual(argVec3DA, argVec3DB) + For i = 0 To 2 + If( argVec3DA(i) <> argVec3DB(i) ) Then + Exit For + End If + Next + If(i = 3) Then + IsEqual = 1 + Else + IsEqual = 0 + End If +End Function +Function getFaceFromModel(part, pos, normal) + Dim partBodies As Variant + partBodies = part.GetBodies(swSolidBody) + For k = LBound(partBodies) To UBound(partBodies) + found = 0 + Dim body As Object + Set body = partBodies(k) + Set face = body.GetFirstFace() + Set getFaceFromModel = nothing + minDist = -1 + Do While Not face Is Nothing ' While we have a valid feature + Set sur = face.GetSurface() + If sur.IsPlane() Then + planePara = sur.PlaneParams + faceNormal = face.normal + nTest = faceNormal(0) * normal(0) + faceNormal(1) * normal(1) + faceNormal(2) * normal(2) + If nTest > 1 - 0.000001 Then + ' check projection + closeRes = face.GetClosestPointOn(pos(0), pos(1), pos(2)) + dTest = (pos(0) - closeRes(0)) * (pos(0) - closeRes(0)) + (pos(1) - closeRes(1)) * (pos(1) - closeRes(1)) + (pos(2) - closeRes(2)) * (pos(2) - closeRes(2)) + If ( dTest < minDist Or minDist = -1 ) Then + Set getFaceFromModel = face + minDist = dTest + found=1 + End If + End If + else + If sur.IsCylinder() then + closeRes = face.GetClosestPointOn(pos(0), pos(1), pos(2)) + dTest = (pos(0) - closeRes(0)) * (pos(0) - closeRes(0)) + (pos(1) - closeRes(1)) * (pos(1) - closeRes(1)) + (pos(2) - closeRes(2)) * (pos(2) - closeRes(2)) + If ( dTest < minDist Or minDist = -1 ) Then + res=sur.EvaluateAtPoint(closeRes(0),closeRes(1),closeRes(2)) + nTest=res(0)*normal(0)+res(1)*normal(1)+res(2)*normal(2) + if nTest>1-0.00000001 then + Set getFaceFromModel = face + found=1 + End if + End if + End if + End if + Set face = face.GetNextFace ' Get the next Face + Loop + If (found = 1) Then + Exit For + End If + Next k +End Function +Function getEdgeFromModel(part, pos,byref edgeRet) + Dim partBodies As Variant + partBodies = part.GetBodies(swSolidBody) + For k = LBound(partBodies) To UBound(partBodies) + Dim body As Object + Set body = partBodies(k) + edges= body.GetEdges() + start= LBound(edges) + ende = UBound(edges) + For i = start To ende + Set edge = edges(i) + closeRes=edge.GetClosestPointOn(pos(0),pos(1),pos(2)) + dTest = (pos(0) - closeRes(0)) * (pos(0) - closeRes(0)) + (pos(1) - closeRes(1)) * (pos(1) - closeRes(1)) + (pos(2) - closeRes(2)) * (pos(2) - closeRes(2)) + If dTest < 0.00000001 Then + set edgeRet=edge + getEdgeFromModel=true + exit function + End If + Next i + Next k + getEdgeFromModel=false +End Function +sub cLn(part,wMat,x1,y1,x2,y2) +pk1=mulMat4x4Values3d(wMat,x1,y1,0) +pk2=mulMat4x4Values3d(wMat,x2,y2,0) +Part.SketchManager.CreateLine pk1(0),pk1(1),0,pk2(0),pk2(1),0 +end sub +sub cCLn(part,wMat,x1,y1,x2,y2) +pk1=mulMat4x4Values3d(wMat,x1,y1,0) +pk2=mulMat4x4Values3d(wMat,x2,y2,0) +Part.CreateCenterLineVB pk1(0),pk1(1),0,pk2(0),pk2(1),0 +end sub +sub cArc(part,wMat,x1,y1,x2,y2,x3,y3) +pk1=mulMat4x4Values3d(wMat,x1,y1,0) +pk2=mulMat4x4Values3d(wMat,x2,y2,0) +pk3=mulMat4x4Values3d(wMat,x3,y3,0) +Part.SketchManager.Create3PointArc pk1(0),pk1(1),0,pk3(0),pk3(1),0,pk2(0),pk2(1),0 +end sub +sub cCir(part,wMat,x1,y1,rad) +pk1=mulMat4x4Values3d(wMat,x1,y1,0) +Part.SketchManager.CreateCircleByRadius pk1(0),pk1(1),0,rad +end sub +Public Function BrowseForFolder +Dim objFolder, objShell +Set objShell = CreateObject("Shell.Application") +Set objFolder = objShell.BrowseForFolder(0, "Please select the folder..", BIF_BrowseFolder, IniFolder) +If Not (objFolder Is Nothing) Then + BrowseForFolder = objFolder.Self.path +End If +End Function +Sub SelectCommonEdge(argFaceA, argFaceB) + edgesA = argFaceA.GetEdges + edgesB = argFaceB.GetEdges + For Each edgeA In edgesA + Set vertexA1 = edgeA.GetStartVertex + Set vertexA2 = edgeA.GetEndVertex + pointA1 = vertexA1.GetPoint + pointA2 = vertexA2.GetPoint + For Each edgeB In edgesB + Set vertexB1 = edgeB.GetStartVertex + Set vertexB2 = edgeB.GetEndVertex + pointB1 = vertexB1.GetPoint + pointB2 = vertexB2.GetPoint + If ( (IsEqual(pointA1, pointB1) And IsEqual(pointA2, pointB2)) Or (IsEqual(pointA1, pointB2) And IsEqual(pointA2, pointB1)) ) Then + edgeA.Select(True) + Exit Sub + End If + Next + Next +End Sub +Sub CreatePart0 +dim errors as long +dim warnings as long +Dim longstatus As Long +if (docVisible=0) then + swApp.DocumentVisible 0, 1 +end if +set res=swApp.OpenDoc6 ( storePath & "SBSg620-500L (25 3).sldprt",1,3,"", errors, warnings) +swApp.ActivateDoc2 "SBSg620-500L (25 3).sldprt", False, longstatus +if not res is nothing then + if (docVisible=0) then + swApp.DocumentVisible 1, 1 + end if + exit sub +end if +if (docVisible=0) then + swApp.DocumentVisible 1, 1 +end if +Dim sPartTemplateName As String +sPartTemplateName = swApp.GetUserPreferenceStringValue(8) +Set part = swApp.NewDocument(sPartTemplateName, 0, 0, 0) +swApp.ActivateDoc2 "SBSg620-500L (25 3).sldprt", False, longstatus +Set part = swApp.ActiveDoc +part.SketchManager.AddToDB = true +part.SketchManager.DisplayWhenAdded = false +part.ActiveView.EnableGraphicsUpdate = false +Set modelExt = part.Extension +Set customPropMgr = modelExt.CustomPropertyManager("") +customPropMgr.Add2 "NB", 30, "SBSg620-500L (25 3)" +customPropMgr.Add2 "NN", 30, "SBS" +customPropMgr.Add2 "NT", 30, "Support Rail Unit" +customPropMgr.Add2 "NBSYN", 30, "SBS$SHAFT.$TOL.$SD1.-$L.L ($N. $NH.)" +customPropMgr.Add2 "LINA", 30, "SBSg620-500L" +customPropMgr.Add2 "CATALOG", 30, "Samick Precision" +customPropMgr.Add2 "PN", 30, "SBS20" +customPropMgr.Add2 "SHAFT", 30, "Standard(SUJ2)" +customPropMgr.Add2 "TOL", 30, "Asian STD g6 Tolerance Shaft" +customPropMgr.Add2 "SD", 30, "F20" +customPropMgr.Add2 "L", 30, "500" +customPropMgr.Add2 "E", 30, "22.5" +customPropMgr.Add2 "HH", 30, "27" +customPropMgr.Add2 "B", 30, "45" +customPropMgr.Add2 "H", 30, "17.72" +customPropMgr.Add2 "T", 30, "5" +customPropMgr.Add2 "F", 30, "19.0" +customPropMgr.Add2 "X", 30, "8.0" +customPropMgr.Add2 "Y", 30, "10.0" +customPropMgr.Add2 "C", 30, "30" +customPropMgr.Add2 "THETA", 30, "50" +customPropMgr.Add2 "S1", 30, "F5.5" +customPropMgr.Add2 "A1", 30, "6.5" +customPropMgr.Add2 "A2", 30, "11.0" +customPropMgr.Add2 "D1", 30, "6.6" +customPropMgr.Add2 "W", 30, "3.500" +customPropMgr.Add2 "MAXL", 30, "3000" +customPropMgr.Add2 "P", 30, "150" +customPropMgr.Add2 "SD1", 30, "20" +customPropMgr.Add2 "SUPPLIER", 30, "SAMICKPR" +customPropMgr.Add2 "ARTICLENO", 30, "SBSg620-500L (25 3)" +customPropMgr.Add2 "BOMINFO", 30, "SBSg620-500L" +customPropMgr.Add2 "CREATOR", 30, "CADENAS GmbH" +customPropMgr.Add2 "IsFastener", 30, "0" +part.SummaryInfo(0)="SBSg620-500L" +part.SummaryInfo(4)="Support Rail Unit" +part.SummaryInfo(2)="Cadenas PARTsolutions" +valRGB=part.MaterialPropertyValues +valRGB(0)=0.68999999761581 +valRGB(1)=0.68999999761581 +valRGB(2)=0.68999999761581 +valRGB(7)=0 +part.MaterialPropertyValues=valRGB +Dim featMgr as object +set featMgr = part.FeatureManager +codeBag0 part,featMgr +codeBag15 part,featMgr +part.ActiveView.EnableGraphicsUpdate = true +part.SketchManager.DisplayWhenAdded = true +part.SketchManager.AddToDB = false +part.EditRebuild3 +part.Rebuild swRebuildAll +Set modelExt = part.Extension +modelExt.SaveAs storePath & "SBSg620-500L (25 3).sldprt",0,0,nothing,errors,warnings +End Sub +sub codeBag1(part,wMat) +cLn part,wMat,-0.0225,-0.0223,-0.0225,-0.0267 +cArc part,wMat,-0.0225,-0.0267,-0.022412132034356,-0.026912132034356,-0.0222,-0.027 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0222,-0.027,0.0222,-0.027 +cArc part,wMat,0.0222,-0.027,0.022412132034356,-0.026912132034356,0.0225,-0.0267 +cLn part,wMat,0.0225,-0.0267,0.0225,-0.0223 +cArc part,wMat,0.0225,-0.0223,0.022412132034356,-0.022087867965644,0.0222,-0.022 +cLn part,wMat,0.0222,-0.022,0.0098,-0.022 +cArc part,wMat,0.0098,-0.022,0.009587867965644,-0.021912132034356,0.0095,-0.0217 +cLn part,wMat,0.0095,-0.0217,0.0095,-0.0173 +cArc part,wMat,0.0095,-0.0173,0.009412132034356,-0.017087867965644,0.0092,-0.017 +cLn part,wMat,0.0092,-0.017,0.0077910161991988,-0.017 +cArc part,wMat,0.0077910161991988,-0.017,0.0076298263166948,-0.016953017433744,0.0075191238630878,-0.016826785478522 +cLn part,wMat,0.0075191238630878,-0.016826785478522,0.0040807712578687,-0.0094532145214778 +cArc part,wMat,0.0040807712578687,-0.0094532145214778,0.0039700688042618,-0.0093269825662561,0.0038088789217578,-0.00928 +cLn part,wMat,0.0038088789217578,-0.00928,-0.0038088789217578,-0.00928 +cArc part,wMat,-0.0038088789217578,-0.00928,-0.0039700688042618,-0.0093269825662561,-0.0040807712578687,-0.0094532145214778 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0040807712578687,-0.0094532145214778,-0.0075191238630878,-0.016826785478522 +cArc part,wMat,-0.0075191238630878,-0.016826785478522,-0.0076298263166948,-0.016953017433744,-0.0077910161991988,-0.017 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0077910161991988,-0.017,-0.0092,-0.017 +cArc part,wMat,-0.0092,-0.017,-0.009412132034356,-0.017087867965644,-0.0095,-0.0173 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0095,-0.0173,-0.0095,-0.0217 +cArc part,wMat,-0.0095,-0.0217,-0.009587867965644,-0.021912132034356,-0.0098,-0.022 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0098,-0.022,-0.0222,-0.022 +cArc part,wMat,-0.0222,-0.022,-0.022412132034356,-0.022087867965644,-0.0225,-0.0223 +Part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +end sub + +sub codeBag2(part,wMat) +cCir part,wMat,0,0,0.01 +Part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +end sub + +sub codeBag3(part,wMat) +cLn part,wMat,0.015,-0.022,0.01775,-0.022 +cLn part,wMat,0.01775,-0.022,0.01775,-0.027 +cLn part,wMat,0.01775,-0.027,0.015,-0.027 +cLn part,wMat,0.015,-0.027,0.015,-0.022 +cCLn part,wMat,0.015,-0.027,0.015,-0.022 +Part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +end sub + +sub codeBag4(part,wMat) +cLn part,wMat,-0.015,-0.027,-0.01775,-0.027 +cLn part,wMat,-0.01775,-0.027,-0.01775,-0.022 +cLn part,wMat,-0.01775,-0.022,-0.015,-0.022 +cLn part,wMat,-0.015,-0.022,-0.015,-0.027 +cCLn part,wMat,-0.015,-0.022,-0.015,-0.027 +Part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +end sub + +sub codeBag5(part,wMat) +cLn part,wMat,0.015,-0.022,0.01775,-0.022 +cLn part,wMat,0.01775,-0.022,0.01775,-0.027 +cLn part,wMat,0.01775,-0.027,0.015,-0.027 +cLn part,wMat,0.015,-0.027,0.015,-0.022 +cCLn part,wMat,0.015,-0.027,0.015,-0.022 +Part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +end sub + +sub codeBag6(part,wMat) +cLn part,wMat,-0.015,-0.027,-0.01775,-0.027 +cLn part,wMat,-0.01775,-0.027,-0.01775,-0.022 +cLn part,wMat,-0.01775,-0.022,-0.015,-0.022 +cLn part,wMat,-0.015,-0.022,-0.015,-0.027 +cCLn part,wMat,-0.015,-0.022,-0.015,-0.027 +Part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +end sub + +sub codeBag7(part,wMat) +cLn part,wMat,0.015,-0.022,0.01775,-0.022 +cLn part,wMat,0.01775,-0.022,0.01775,-0.027 +cLn part,wMat,0.01775,-0.027,0.015,-0.027 +cLn part,wMat,0.015,-0.027,0.015,-0.022 +cCLn part,wMat,0.015,-0.027,0.015,-0.022 +Part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +end sub + +sub codeBag8(part,wMat) +cLn part,wMat,0.015,-0.022,0.01775,-0.022 +cLn part,wMat,0.01775,-0.022,0.01775,-0.027 +cLn part,wMat,0.01775,-0.027,0.015,-0.027 +cLn part,wMat,0.015,-0.027,0.015,-0.022 +cCLn part,wMat,0.015,-0.027,0.015,-0.022 +Part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +end sub + +sub codeBag9(part,wMat) +cLn part,wMat,-0.015,-0.027,-0.01775,-0.027 +cLn part,wMat,-0.01775,-0.027,-0.01775,-0.022 +cLn part,wMat,-0.01775,-0.022,-0.015,-0.022 +cLn part,wMat,-0.015,-0.022,-0.015,-0.027 +cCLn part,wMat,-0.015,-0.022,-0.015,-0.027 +Part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +end sub + +sub codeBag10(part,wMat) +cLn part,wMat,-0.015,-0.027,-0.01775,-0.027 +cLn part,wMat,-0.01775,-0.027,-0.01775,-0.022 +cLn part,wMat,-0.01775,-0.022,-0.015,-0.022 +cLn part,wMat,-0.015,-0.022,-0.015,-0.027 +cCLn part,wMat,-0.015,-0.022,-0.015,-0.027 +Part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +end sub + +sub codeBag11(part,wMat) +cLn part,wMat,-8.8817841970013e-19,-0.0267,0.0049,-0.0267 +cLn part,wMat,0.0049,-0.0267,0.0052,-0.0264 +cLn part,wMat,0.0052,-0.0264,0.0052,-0.0205 +cLn part,wMat,0.0052,-0.0205,0.0055,-0.0205 +cLn part,wMat,0.0055,-0.0205,0.0055,-0.0267 +cArc part,wMat,0.0055,-0.0267,0.005587867965644,-0.026912132034356,0.0058,-0.027 +cLn part,wMat,0.0058,-0.027,-8.8817841970013e-19,-0.027 +cLn part,wMat,-8.8817841970013e-19,-0.027,-8.8817841970013e-19,-0.0267 +cCLn part,wMat,-8.8817841970013e-19,-0.027,-8.8817841970013e-19,-0.0205 +Part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +end sub + +sub codeBag12(part,wMat) +cLn part,wMat,-8.8817841970013e-19,-0.0267,0.0049,-0.0267 +cLn part,wMat,0.0049,-0.0267,0.0052,-0.0264 +cLn part,wMat,0.0052,-0.0264,0.0052,-0.0205 +cLn part,wMat,0.0052,-0.0205,0.0055,-0.0205 +cLn part,wMat,0.0055,-0.0205,0.0055,-0.0267 +cArc part,wMat,0.0055,-0.0267,0.005587867965644,-0.026912132034356,0.0058,-0.027 +cLn part,wMat,0.0058,-0.027,-8.8817841970013e-19,-0.027 +cLn part,wMat,-8.8817841970013e-19,-0.027,-8.8817841970013e-19,-0.0267 +cCLn part,wMat,-8.8817841970013e-19,-0.027,-8.8817841970013e-19,-0.0205 +Part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +end sub + +sub codeBag13(part,wMat) +cLn part,wMat,-8.8817841970013e-19,-0.0267,0.0049,-0.0267 +cLn part,wMat,0.0049,-0.0267,0.0052,-0.0264 +cLn part,wMat,0.0052,-0.0264,0.0052,-0.0205 +cLn part,wMat,0.0052,-0.0205,0.0055,-0.0205 +cLn part,wMat,0.0055,-0.0205,0.0055,-0.0267 +cArc part,wMat,0.0055,-0.0267,0.005587867965644,-0.026912132034356,0.0058,-0.027 +cLn part,wMat,0.0058,-0.027,-8.8817841970013e-19,-0.027 +cLn part,wMat,-8.8817841970013e-19,-0.027,-8.8817841970013e-19,-0.0267 +cCLn part,wMat,-8.8817841970013e-19,-0.027,-8.8817841970013e-19,-0.0205 +Part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +end sub + +sub codeBag14(part,wMat) +cLn part,wMat,-8.8817841970013e-19,-0.0267,0.0049,-0.0267 +cLn part,wMat,0.0049,-0.0267,0.0052,-0.0264 +cLn part,wMat,0.0052,-0.0264,0.0052,-0.0205 +cLn part,wMat,0.0052,-0.0205,0.0055,-0.0205 +cLn part,wMat,0.0055,-0.0205,0.0055,-0.0267 +cArc part,wMat,0.0055,-0.0267,0.005587867965644,-0.026912132034356,0.0058,-0.027 +cLn part,wMat,0.0058,-0.027,-8.8817841970013e-19,-0.027 +cLn part,wMat,-8.8817841970013e-19,-0.027,-8.8817841970013e-19,-0.0267 +cCLn part,wMat,-8.8817841970013e-19,-0.027,-8.8817841970013e-19,-0.0205 +Part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +end sub + +sub codeBag0(part,featMgr) +part.CreatePlaneFixed2 createVec3d(0,0,0),createVec3d(1,0,0),createVec3d(0,1,0),1 +set feat4=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat4.select2 false,0 +part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +part.BlankRefGeom +Set swActiveMat = Part.SketchManager.ActiveSketch +swSketchMat= createMatFromSWMat(swActiveMat.ModelToSketchXForm) +mSkMat=createMat4x4FromValues(1,0,0,0,1,0,0,0,1,0,0,0) +wMat=mulMat4x4Mat4x4(swSketchMat,mSkMat) +codeBag1 part,wMat +set feat4=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat4.select2 false,0 +featMgr.FeatureExtrusion2 1,0,1,0,0,0.5,0.5,1,1,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,1,1,1,0,0,0 +part.CreatePlaneFixed2 createVec3d(0,0,0),createVec3d(1,0,0),createVec3d(0,1,0),1 +set feat6=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat6.select2 false,0 +part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +part.BlankRefGeom +Set swActiveMat = Part.SketchManager.ActiveSketch +swSketchMat= createMatFromSWMat(swActiveMat.ModelToSketchXForm) +mSkMat=createMat4x4FromValues(1,0,0,0,1,0,0,0,1,0,0,0) +wMat=mulMat4x4Mat4x4(swSketchMat,mSkMat) +codeBag2 part,wMat +set feat6=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat6.select2 false,0 +featMgr.FeatureExtrusion2 1,0,1,0,0,0.5,0.5,1,1,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,1,1,1,0,0,0 +part.CreatePlaneFixed2 createVec3d(0,0,-0.025),createVec3d(1,0,-0.025),createVec3d(0,1,-0.025),1 +set feat10=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat10.select2 false,0 +part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +part.BlankRefGeom +Set swActiveMat = Part.SketchManager.ActiveSketch +swSketchMat= createMatFromSWMat(swActiveMat.ModelToSketchXForm) +mSkMat=createMat4x4FromValues(1,0,0,0,1,0,0,0,1,0,0,-0.025) +wMat=mulMat4x4Mat4x4(swSketchMat,mSkMat) +codeBag3 part,wMat +set feat10=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat10.select2 false,0 +featMgr.FeatureRevolveCut2 6.2831853071796,1,6.2831853071796,0,0,1,1,false,false,false +part.CreatePlaneFixed2 createVec3d(0,0,-0.025),createVec3d(1,0,-0.025),createVec3d(0,1,-0.025),1 +set feat12=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat12.select2 false,0 +part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +part.BlankRefGeom +Set swActiveMat = Part.SketchManager.ActiveSketch +swSketchMat= createMatFromSWMat(swActiveMat.ModelToSketchXForm) +mSkMat=createMat4x4FromValues(1,0,0,0,1,0,0,0,1,0,0,-0.025) +wMat=mulMat4x4Mat4x4(swSketchMat,mSkMat) +codeBag4 part,wMat +set feat12=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat12.select2 false,0 +featMgr.FeatureRevolveCut2 6.2831853071796,1,6.2831853071796,0,0,1,1,false,false,false +part.CreatePlaneFixed2 createVec3d(0,0,-0.475),createVec3d(1,0,-0.475),createVec3d(0,1,-0.475),1 +set feat15=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat15.select2 false,0 +part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +part.BlankRefGeom +Set swActiveMat = Part.SketchManager.ActiveSketch +swSketchMat= createMatFromSWMat(swActiveMat.ModelToSketchXForm) +mSkMat=createMat4x4FromValues(1,0,0,0,1,0,0,0,1,0,0,-0.475) +wMat=mulMat4x4Mat4x4(swSketchMat,mSkMat) +codeBag5 part,wMat +set feat15=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat15.select2 false,0 +featMgr.FeatureRevolveCut2 6.2831853071796,1,6.2831853071796,0,0,1,1,false,false,false +part.CreatePlaneFixed2 createVec3d(0,0,-0.475),createVec3d(1,0,-0.475),createVec3d(0,1,-0.475),1 +set feat16=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat16.select2 false,0 +part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +part.BlankRefGeom +Set swActiveMat = Part.SketchManager.ActiveSketch +swSketchMat= createMatFromSWMat(swActiveMat.ModelToSketchXForm) +mSkMat=createMat4x4FromValues(1,0,0,0,1,0,0,0,1,0,0,-0.475) +wMat=mulMat4x4Mat4x4(swSketchMat,mSkMat) +codeBag6 part,wMat +set feat16=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat16.select2 false,0 +featMgr.FeatureRevolveCut2 6.2831853071796,1,6.2831853071796,0,0,1,1,false,false,false +part.CreatePlaneFixed2 createVec3d(0,0,-0.175),createVec3d(1,0,-0.175),createVec3d(0,1,-0.175),1 +set feat22=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat22.select2 false,0 +part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +part.BlankRefGeom +Set swActiveMat = Part.SketchManager.ActiveSketch +swSketchMat= createMatFromSWMat(swActiveMat.ModelToSketchXForm) +mSkMat=createMat4x4FromValues(1,0,0,0,1,0,0,0,1,0,0,-0.175) +wMat=mulMat4x4Mat4x4(swSketchMat,mSkMat) +codeBag7 part,wMat +set feat22=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat22.select2 false,0 +featMgr.FeatureRevolveCut2 6.2831853071796,1,6.2831853071796,0,0,1,1,false,false,false +part.CreatePlaneFixed2 createVec3d(0,0,-0.325),createVec3d(1,0,-0.325),createVec3d(0,1,-0.325),1 +set feat23=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat23.select2 false,0 +part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +part.BlankRefGeom +Set swActiveMat = Part.SketchManager.ActiveSketch +swSketchMat= createMatFromSWMat(swActiveMat.ModelToSketchXForm) +mSkMat=createMat4x4FromValues(1,0,0,0,1,0,0,0,1,0,0,-0.325) +wMat=mulMat4x4Mat4x4(swSketchMat,mSkMat) +codeBag8 part,wMat +set feat23=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat23.select2 false,0 +featMgr.FeatureRevolveCut2 6.2831853071796,1,6.2831853071796,0,0,1,1,false,false,false +part.CreatePlaneFixed2 createVec3d(0,0,-0.175),createVec3d(1,0,-0.175),createVec3d(0,1,-0.175),1 +set feat27=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat27.select2 false,0 +part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +part.BlankRefGeom +Set swActiveMat = Part.SketchManager.ActiveSketch +swSketchMat= createMatFromSWMat(swActiveMat.ModelToSketchXForm) +mSkMat=createMat4x4FromValues(1,0,0,0,1,0,0,0,1,0,0,-0.175) +wMat=mulMat4x4Mat4x4(swSketchMat,mSkMat) +codeBag9 part,wMat +set feat27=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat27.select2 false,0 +featMgr.FeatureRevolveCut2 6.2831853071796,1,6.2831853071796,0,0,1,1,false,false,false +part.CreatePlaneFixed2 createVec3d(0,0,-0.325),createVec3d(1,0,-0.325),createVec3d(0,1,-0.325),1 +set feat28=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat28.select2 false,0 +part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +part.BlankRefGeom +Set swActiveMat = Part.SketchManager.ActiveSketch +swSketchMat= createMatFromSWMat(swActiveMat.ModelToSketchXForm) +mSkMat=createMat4x4FromValues(1,0,0,0,1,0,0,0,1,0,0,-0.325) +wMat=mulMat4x4Mat4x4(swSketchMat,mSkMat) +codeBag10 part,wMat +set feat28=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat28.select2 false,0 +featMgr.FeatureRevolveCut2 6.2831853071796,1,6.2831853071796,0,0,1,1,false,false,false +part.CreatePlaneFixed2 createVec3d(0,0,-0.025),createVec3d(1,0,-0.025),createVec3d(0,1,-0.025),1 +set feat30=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat30.select2 false,0 +part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +part.BlankRefGeom +Set swActiveMat = Part.SketchManager.ActiveSketch +swSketchMat= createMatFromSWMat(swActiveMat.ModelToSketchXForm) +mSkMat=createMat4x4FromValues(1,0,0,0,1,0,0,0,1,0,0,-0.025) +wMat=mulMat4x4Mat4x4(swSketchMat,mSkMat) +codeBag11 part,wMat +set feat30=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat30.select2 false,0 +featMgr.FeatureRevolveCut2 6.2831853071796,1,6.2831853071796,0,0,1,1,false,false,false +part.CreatePlaneFixed2 createVec3d(8.8817841970013e-19,0,-0.175),createVec3d(1,0,-0.175),createVec3d(8.8817841970013e-19,1,-0.175),1 +set feat35=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat35.select2 false,0 +part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +part.BlankRefGeom +Set swActiveMat = Part.SketchManager.ActiveSketch +swSketchMat= createMatFromSWMat(swActiveMat.ModelToSketchXForm) +mSkMat=createMat4x4FromValues(1,0,0,0,1,0,0,0,1,8.8817841970013e-19,0,-0.175) +wMat=mulMat4x4Mat4x4(swSketchMat,mSkMat) +codeBag12 part,wMat +set feat35=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat35.select2 false,0 +featMgr.FeatureRevolveCut2 6.2831853071796,1,6.2831853071796,0,0,1,1,false,false,false +part.CreatePlaneFixed2 createVec3d(8.8817841970013e-19,0,-0.325),createVec3d(1,0,-0.325),createVec3d(8.8817841970013e-19,1,-0.325),1 +set feat36=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat36.select2 false,0 +part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +part.BlankRefGeom +Set swActiveMat = Part.SketchManager.ActiveSketch +swSketchMat= createMatFromSWMat(swActiveMat.ModelToSketchXForm) +mSkMat=createMat4x4FromValues(1,0,0,0,1,0,0,0,1,8.8817841970013e-19,0,-0.325) +wMat=mulMat4x4Mat4x4(swSketchMat,mSkMat) +codeBag13 part,wMat +set feat36=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat36.select2 false,0 +featMgr.FeatureRevolveCut2 6.2831853071796,1,6.2831853071796,0,0,1,1,false,false,false +part.CreatePlaneFixed2 createVec3d(8.8817841970013e-19,0,-0.475),createVec3d(1,0,-0.475),createVec3d(8.8817841970013e-19,1,-0.475),1 +set feat37=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat37.select2 false,0 +part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +part.BlankRefGeom +Set swActiveMat = Part.SketchManager.ActiveSketch +swSketchMat= createMatFromSWMat(swActiveMat.ModelToSketchXForm) +mSkMat=createMat4x4FromValues(1,0,0,0,1,0,0,0,1,8.8817841970013e-19,0,-0.475) +wMat=mulMat4x4Mat4x4(swSketchMat,mSkMat) +codeBag14 part,wMat +set feat37=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat37.select2 false,0 +featMgr.FeatureRevolveCut2 6.2831853071796,1,6.2831853071796,0,0,1,1,false,false,false +end sub + +sub codeBag16(part,wMat) +cLn part,wMat,-0.002275,-0.0013134718624064,0,-0.0026269437248128 +cLn part,wMat,0,-0.0026269437248128,0.002275,-0.0013134718624064 +cLn part,wMat,0.002275,-0.0013134718624064,0.002275,0.0013134718624064 +cLn part,wMat,0.002275,0.0013134718624064,0,0.0026269437248128 +cLn part,wMat,0,0.0026269437248128,-0.002275,0.0013134718624064 +cLn part,wMat,-0.002275,0.0013134718624064,-0.002275,-0.0013134718624064 +Part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +end sub + +sub codeBag17(part,wMat) +cLn part,wMat,-0.002275,-0.0013134718624064,0,-0.0026269437248128 +cLn part,wMat,0,-0.0026269437248128,0.002275,-0.0013134718624064 +cLn part,wMat,0.002275,-0.0013134718624064,0.002275,0.0013134718624064 +cLn part,wMat,0.002275,0.0013134718624064,0,0.0026269437248128 +cLn part,wMat,0,0.0026269437248128,-0.002275,0.0013134718624064 +cLn part,wMat,-0.002275,0.0013134718624064,-0.002275,-0.0013134718624064 +Part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +end sub + +sub codeBag18(part,wMat) +cLn part,wMat,-0.002275,-0.0013134718624064,0,-0.0026269437248128 +cLn part,wMat,0,-0.0026269437248128,0.002275,-0.0013134718624064 +cLn part,wMat,0.002275,-0.0013134718624064,0.002275,0.0013134718624064 +cLn part,wMat,0.002275,0.0013134718624064,0,0.0026269437248128 +cLn part,wMat,0,0.0026269437248128,-0.002275,0.0013134718624064 +cLn part,wMat,-0.002275,0.0013134718624064,-0.002275,-0.0013134718624064 +Part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +end sub + +sub codeBag19(part,wMat) +cLn part,wMat,-0.002275,-0.0013134718624064,0,-0.0026269437248128 +cLn part,wMat,0,-0.0026269437248128,0.002275,-0.0013134718624064 +cLn part,wMat,0.002275,-0.0013134718624064,0.002275,0.0013134718624064 +cLn part,wMat,0.002275,0.0013134718624064,0,0.0026269437248128 +cLn part,wMat,0,0.0026269437248128,-0.002275,0.0013134718624064 +cLn part,wMat,-0.002275,0.0013134718624064,-0.002275,-0.0013134718624064 +Part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +end sub + +sub codeBag15(part,featMgr) +part.CreatePlaneFixed2 createVec3d(0,-0.0267,-0.025),createVec3d(1,-0.0267,-0.025),createVec3d(0,-0.0267,0.975),1 +set feat39=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat39.select2 false,0 +part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +part.BlankRefGeom +Set swActiveMat = Part.SketchManager.ActiveSketch +swSketchMat= createMatFromSWMat(swActiveMat.ModelToSketchXForm) +mSkMat=createMat4x4FromValues(1,0,0,0,0,1,0,-1,0,0,-0.0267,-0.025) +wMat=mulMat4x4Mat4x4(swSketchMat,mSkMat) +codeBag16 part,wMat +set feat39=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat39.select2 false,0 +featMgr.FeatureCut3 1,0,0,0,0,0.003,0.003,1,1,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,1,1,false,false,false,0,0,0 +part.CreatePlaneFixed2 createVec3d(0,-0.0267,-0.175),createVec3d(1,-0.0267,-0.175),createVec3d(0,-0.0267,0.825),1 +set feat44=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat44.select2 false,0 +part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +part.BlankRefGeom +Set swActiveMat = Part.SketchManager.ActiveSketch +swSketchMat= createMatFromSWMat(swActiveMat.ModelToSketchXForm) +mSkMat=createMat4x4FromValues(1,0,0,0,0,1,0,-1,0,0,-0.0267,-0.175) +wMat=mulMat4x4Mat4x4(swSketchMat,mSkMat) +codeBag17 part,wMat +set feat44=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat44.select2 false,0 +featMgr.FeatureCut3 1,0,0,0,0,0.003,0.003,1,1,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,1,1,false,false,false,0,0,0 +part.CreatePlaneFixed2 createVec3d(0,-0.0267,-0.325),createVec3d(1,-0.0267,-0.325),createVec3d(0,-0.0267,0.675),1 +set feat45=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat45.select2 false,0 +part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +part.BlankRefGeom +Set swActiveMat = Part.SketchManager.ActiveSketch +swSketchMat= createMatFromSWMat(swActiveMat.ModelToSketchXForm) +mSkMat=createMat4x4FromValues(1,0,0,0,0,1,0,-1,0,0,-0.0267,-0.325) +wMat=mulMat4x4Mat4x4(swSketchMat,mSkMat) +codeBag18 part,wMat +set feat45=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat45.select2 false,0 +featMgr.FeatureCut3 1,0,0,0,0,0.003,0.003,1,1,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,1,1,false,false,false,0,0,0 +part.CreatePlaneFixed2 createVec3d(0,-0.0267,-0.475),createVec3d(1,-0.0267,-0.475),createVec3d(0,-0.0267,0.525),1 +set feat46=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat46.select2 false,0 +part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +part.BlankRefGeom +Set swActiveMat = Part.SketchManager.ActiveSketch +swSketchMat= createMatFromSWMat(swActiveMat.ModelToSketchXForm) +mSkMat=createMat4x4FromValues(1,0,0,0,0,1,0,-1,0,0,-0.0267,-0.475) +wMat=mulMat4x4Mat4x4(swSketchMat,mSkMat) +codeBag19 part,wMat +set feat46=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat46.select2 false,0 +featMgr.FeatureCut3 1,0,0,0,0,0.003,0.003,1,1,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,1,1,false,false,false,0,0,0 +end sub + +sub main +set swApp = Application.SldWorks +code = swApp.RevisionNumber +found = InStr(code, ".") +If (found > 0) Then + code = Left(code, found-1) + docVisible=1 + If (CInt(code) >= 18) Then + docVisible=0 + End If +End If +swApp.SetUserPreferenceToggle 11, FALSE +swApp.SetUserPreferenceToggle 97, FALSE +storePath=BrowseForFolder +If (storePath <> "") Then + If ((Right(storePath, 1) <> "\") And (Right(storePath, 1) <> "/")) Then + storePath = storePath + "\" + End If + createPart0 +End If +end sub diff --git a/sheetpress/components/sprcb-1300-rc1/cad/renderings/200_PressPlate-Global-650-Weldment.JPG b/sheetpress/components/sprcb-1300-rc1/cad/renderings/200_PressPlate-Global-650-Weldment.JPG new file mode 100644 index 000000000..c53f2b316 --- /dev/null +++ b/sheetpress/components/sprcb-1300-rc1/cad/renderings/200_PressPlate-Global-650-Weldment.JPG @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +version https://git-lfs.github.com/spec/v1 +oid sha256:f1762103a212da12c5e283b2f9c6ba4a6eb4792978a6728ac712117999b3029a +size 246098 diff --git a/sheetpress/components/sprcb-1300-rc1/specs.xlsx b/sheetpress/components/sprcb-1300-rc1/specs.xlsx new file mode 100644 index 000000000..577faff6f Binary files /dev/null and b/sheetpress/components/sprcb-1300-rc1/specs.xlsx differ diff --git a/sheetpress/components/sprcb-1300-rc1/templates/shared/body.md b/sheetpress/components/sprcb-1300-rc1/templates/shared/body.md new file mode 100644 index 000000000..519583c80 --- /dev/null +++ b/sheetpress/components/sprcb-1300-rc1/templates/shared/body.md @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +# Sheetpress Module - 650 + +## Features / Details + +- 15mm 5038 Aluminum plates, precision cut and ground +- 9 Cartridge heaters, 12mm diameter, 80mm long, 300W, embedded in the heat-plate for maximum contact and lifespan +- the module is compatible with ['Cassandra Light'](https://shop.osr-plastic.org/sheetpress/cassanda-light/). Larger designs as a 2x2 arrangments are also available in the [library](https://files.osr-plastic.org/files/osr-machines/sheetpress/) +- the lower support ribs can be removed +- point to point temperature differences are within a 2 degree celsius range +- warmup time - 220V : 20 minutes, 400V: 10 minutes +- low heating oscillation, approximately every 15 seconds diff --git a/sheetpress/components/sprcb-1300-rc1/templates/shared/product_features.md b/sheetpress/components/sprcb-1300-rc1/templates/shared/product_features.md new file mode 100644 index 000000000..e69de29bb diff --git a/sheetpress/components/sprcb-800-rc2_/bazar/raw.html.json b/sheetpress/components/sprcb-800-rc2_/bazar/raw.html.json new file mode 100644 index 000000000..9e86a80ff --- /dev/null +++ b/sheetpress/components/sprcb-800-rc2_/bazar/raw.html.json @@ -0,0 +1,44 @@ +{ + "includes": [ + "C:\\Users\\mc007\\Desktop\\osr\\products\\products\\sheetpress\\components\\sprcb-650-rc2", + "C:\\Users\\mc007\\Desktop\\osr\\products\\products\\sheetpress\\components\\sprcb-650-rc2\\templates\\site", + "C:\\Users\\mc007\\Desktop\\osr\\products\\products\\sheetpress\\components\\sprcb-650-rc2\\templates\\shared", + "C:\\Users\\mc007\\Desktop\\osr\\products\\osr", + "C:\\Users\\mc007\\Desktop\\osr\\products\\osr\\widgets", + "C:\\Users\\mc007\\Desktop\\osr\\products\\_includes", + "C:\\Users\\mc007\\Desktop\\osr\\products\\templates\\site", + "C:\\Users\\mc007\\Desktop\\osr\\products\\products\\sheetpress\\components\\sprcb-650-rc2\\templates\\bazar" + ], + "variables": { + "OSR_ROOT": "C:\\Users\\mc007\\Desktop\\osr", + "OSR_TEMP": "C:\\Users\\mc007\\AppData\\Local\\Temp\\osr", + "PRODUCT_ROOT": "C:\\Users\\mc007\\Desktop\\osr\\products\\products\\sheetpress\\components\\sprcb-650-rc2/", + "OA_ROOT": "C:\\Users\\mc007\\Desktop\\ph3\\pp-next2", + "KB_ROOT": "C:\\Users\\mc007\\Desktop\\osr\\osr-kb-next", + "OSR_CACHE": "C:\\Users\\mc007\\.osr\\cache", + "OSR_LIBRARY": "C:\\Users\\mc007\\Desktop\\osr\\osr-machines", + "OSR_LIBRARY_MACHINES": "C:\\Users\\mc007\\Desktop\\osr\\osr-machines", + "OSR_USER_ASSETS": "C:\\Users\\mc007\\Desktop\\osr\\osr-user-assets", + "OSR_TEMPLATES": "C:\\Users\\mc007\\Desktop\\osr\\osr-templates", + "OSR_CONTENT": "C:\\Users\\mc007\\Desktop\\osr\\osr-content", + "OSR_PROFILES": "C:\\Users\\mc007\\Desktop\\osr\\osr-profiles", + "root": "C:\\Users\\mc007\\Desktop\\osr\\products", + "cwd": "C:\\Users\\mc007\\Desktop\\osr\\products", + "product": "products/sheetpress/components/sprcb-650-rc2", + "product_rel": "sheetpress/components/sprcb-650-rc2", + "product_relative": "sheetpress/components/sprcb-650-rc2", + "debug": false, + "env": "bazar-release", + "targetLanguage": "en", + "sourceLanguage": "en", + "abs_url": "https://plastic-hub.com/", + "CACHE": "C:\\Users\\mc007\\Desktop\\osr\\products/cache/", + "CACHE_URL": "https://plastic-hub.com//cache/", + "GIT_REPO": "https://git.osr-plastic.org/osr-plastic/osr-machines", + "OSR_MACHINES_ASSETS_URL": "https://assets.osr-plastic.org/machines/", + "PRODUCTS_ASSETS_URL": "https://assets.osr-plastic.org/machines/products/sheetpress/components/sprcb-650-rc2", + "OSR_FILES_WEB": "https://files.osr-plastic.org/files/osr-machines", + "PRODUCTS_FILES_URL": "https://files.osr-plastic.org/files/osr-machines/sheetpress/components/sprcb-650-rc2", + "DISCORD": "https://discord.gg/s8K7yKwBRc" + } +} \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/sheetpress/components/sprcb-800-rc2_/cad/200_PressPlate-Global-650-Center-DoubleHeating.jpg b/sheetpress/components/sprcb-800-rc2_/cad/200_PressPlate-Global-650-Center-DoubleHeating.jpg new file mode 100644 index 000000000..d53b685f9 --- /dev/null +++ b/sheetpress/components/sprcb-800-rc2_/cad/200_PressPlate-Global-650-Center-DoubleHeating.jpg @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +version https://git-lfs.github.com/spec/v1 +oid sha256:43f1b11d35b848c32127bde0d5ea5e7724d9b35e35c81124bce734291398faef +size 17313 diff --git a/sheetpress/components/sprcb-800-rc2_/cad/200_PressPlate-Global-650-Center-DoubleHeating.json b/sheetpress/components/sprcb-800-rc2_/cad/200_PressPlate-Global-650-Center-DoubleHeating.json new file mode 100644 index 000000000..3842daac3 --- /dev/null +++ b/sheetpress/components/sprcb-800-rc2_/cad/200_PressPlate-Global-650-Center-DoubleHeating.json @@ -0,0 +1,55 @@ +[ + { + "File Path": "C:\\Users\\mc007\\Desktop\\osr\\products\\products\\sheetpress\\components\\sprcb-650-light\\cad\\200_PressPlate-Global-650.SLDASM", + "IsLaser": "1" + }, + { + "File Path": "C:\\Users\\mc007\\Desktop\\osr\\products\\products\\sheetpress\\components\\sprcb-650-light\\cad\\303_TriMount_x8_5mm_FERRO.SLDPRT" + }, + { + "File Path": "C:\\Users\\mc007\\Desktop\\osr\\products\\products\\sheetpress\\components\\sprcb-650-light\\cad\\20_80_60.SLDPRT" + }, + { + "File Path": "C:\\Users\\mc007\\Desktop\\osr\\products\\products\\sheetpress\\components\\sprcb-650-light\\cad\\201_PlateCoverTri_x1_1mm_INOX.SLDPRT" + }, + { + "File Path": "C:\\Users\\mc007\\Desktop\\osr\\products\\products\\sheetpress\\components\\sprcb-650-light\\cad\\8_Rib_x2_4mm_FERRO.SLDPRT" + }, + { + "File Path": "C:\\Users\\mc007\\Desktop\\osr\\products\\products\\sheetpress\\components\\sprcb-650-light\\cad\\6_Side_x2_4mm_FERRO.SLDPRT" + }, + { + "File Path": "C:\\Users\\mc007\\Desktop\\osr\\products\\products\\sheetpress\\components\\sprcb-650-light\\cad\\7_Rib_x2_4mm_FERRO.SLDPRT" + }, + { + "File Path": "C:\\Users\\mc007\\Desktop\\osr\\products\\products\\sheetpress\\components\\sprcb-650-light\\cad\\7_Side_x2_4mm_FERRO.SLDPRT" + }, + { + "File Path": "C:\\Users\\mc007\\Desktop\\osr\\products\\products\\sheetpress\\components\\sprcb-650-light\\cad\\210_PlateAssemblyRibs.SLDASM", + "IsLaser": "1" + }, + { + "File Path": "C:\\Users\\mc007\\Desktop\\osr\\products\\products\\sheetpress\\components\\sprcb-650-light\\cad\\250-15-SP-HeatPlate5083.SLDPRT" + }, + { + "File Path": "c:\\solidworks data (2)\\browser\\ansi metric\\bolts and screws\\socket head screws\\socket button head cap screw_am.sldprt" + }, + { + "File Path": "C:\\Users\\mc007\\Desktop\\osr\\products\\products\\sheetpress\\components\\sprcb-650-light\\cad\\6_TCGland_x2_1mm_Inox.SLDPRT" + }, + { + "File Path": "C:\\Users\\mc007\\Desktop\\osr\\products\\products\\sheetpress\\components\\sprcb-650-light\\cad\\TCGland.SLDASM" + }, + { + "File Path": "C:\\Users\\mc007\\Desktop\\osr\\products\\products\\sheetpress\\components\\sprcb-650-light\\cad\\6_PGland_x2_1mm_Inox.SLDPRT" + }, + { + "File Path": "C:\\Users\\mc007\\Desktop\\osr\\products\\products\\sheetpress\\components\\sprcb-650-light\\cad\\PowerGland.SLDASM" + }, + { + "File Path": "C:\\Users\\mc007\\Desktop\\osr\\products\\products\\sheetpress\\cassandra-edczmax-rc1\\cad\\framework\\Slide40.SLDPRT" + }, + { + "File Path": "C:\\Users\\mc007\\Desktop\\osr\\products\\products\\sheetpress\\components\\sprcb-650-light\\cad\\Rail-Rod-M10.SLDPRT" + } +] \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/sheetpress/components/sprcb-800-rc2_/cad/200_PressPlate-Global-650-Center-DoubleHeating.step b/sheetpress/components/sprcb-800-rc2_/cad/200_PressPlate-Global-650-Center-DoubleHeating.step new file mode 100644 index 000000000..330f1fb60 --- /dev/null +++ b/sheetpress/components/sprcb-800-rc2_/cad/200_PressPlate-Global-650-Center-DoubleHeating.step @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +version https://git-lfs.github.com/spec/v1 +oid sha256:b110164e235e28daf64d043fb0bc8742e9d5a3b6905e30844712e3d25a637ef3 +size 1817755 diff --git a/sheetpress/components/sprcb-800-rc2_/cad/200_PressPlate-Global-650-Double-Side-Cooled-Center.jpg b/sheetpress/components/sprcb-800-rc2_/cad/200_PressPlate-Global-650-Double-Side-Cooled-Center.jpg new file mode 100644 index 000000000..d5e37cd9d --- /dev/null +++ b/sheetpress/components/sprcb-800-rc2_/cad/200_PressPlate-Global-650-Double-Side-Cooled-Center.jpg @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +version https://git-lfs.github.com/spec/v1 +oid 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b/sheetpress/components/sprcb-800-rc2_/cad/rails/SBR20UU.swb new file mode 100644 index 000000000..c0a2d2ab0 --- /dev/null +++ b/sheetpress/components/sprcb-800-rc2_/cad/rails/SBR20UU.swb @@ -0,0 +1,813 @@ +dim swApp +dim storePath +dim docVisible +Private Const MAX_PATH = 260 +'Directories only +Private Const BIF_RETURNONLYFSDIRS = &H1& +'Windows 2000 (Shell32.dll 5.0) extended dialog +Private Const BIF_NEWDIALOGSTYLE = &H40 +' show edit box +Private Const BIF_EDITBOX = &H10& +' add all dir options +Private Const BIF_BrowseFolder = BIF_EDITBOX Or BIF_RETURNONLYFSDIRS Or BIF_NEWDIALOGSTYLE +' set the virtual desktop as ini folder +Private Const IniFolder = &H0 'Virtual Desktop +Function getLastFeatureByType(model,typ) + Set feat = model.FirstFeature ' Get the 1st feature in part + Set res = Nothing + Count = 0 + Do While Not feat Is Nothing ' While we have a valid feature + If feat.GetTypeName() = typ Then + Set res = feat + End If + Set feat = feat.GetNextFeature() ' Get the next feature + Loop ' Continue until no more + Set getLastFeatureByType = res +End Function +' this code with copy a matrix to a other +Function copyMat4x4(source) +Dim res(0 To 15) As Double +For i = 0 To 15 + res(i) = source(i) +Next +copyMat4x4 = res +End Function + +' This code creates a mat from a sw mat +Function createMatFromSWMat(source) + Dim res(0 To 15) As Double + res(0) = source(0) + res(1) = source(1) + res(2) = source(2) + res(3) = 0 + res(4) = source(3) + res(5) = source(4) + res(6) = source(5) + res(7) = 0 + res(8) = source(6) + res(9) = source(7) + res(10) = source(8) + res(11) = 0 + res(12) = source(9) + res(13) = source(10) + res(14) = source(11) + res(15) = source(12) + createMatFromSWMat = res +End Function +Function createSWMatFromMat(source) + Dim res(0 To 15) As Double + res(0) = source(0) + res(1) = source(1) + res(2) = source(2) + res(3) = source(4) + res(4) = source(5) + res(5) = source(6) + res(6) = source(8) + res(7) = source(9) + res(8) = source(10) + res(9) = source(12) + res(10) = source(13) + res(11) = source(14) + res(12) = source(15) + res(13) = 0 + res(14) = 0 + res(15) = 0 + createSWMatFromMat = res +End Function +Function createMat4x4FromValues(x1,x2,x3,y1,y2,y3,z1,z2,z3,t1,t2,t3) + Dim res(0 To 15) As Double + res(0) = x1 + res(1) = x2 + res(2) = x3 + res(3) = 0 + res(4) = y1 + res(5) = y2 + res(6) = y3 + res(7) = 0 + res(8) = z1 + res(9) = z2 + res(10) =z3 + res(11) = 0 + res(12) = t1 + res(13) = t2 + res(14) = t3 + res(15) = 1 + createMat4x4FromValues = res +End Function +' this code will mult a common mat with any other stuff +Function multMatMat(ld, xld, yld, rd, xrd, yrd) + mulRes = yld * xrd + 'Dim od(0 To 0) As Variant + ReDim od(mulRes - 1) As Double + For i = 0 To mulRes - 1 + od(i) = 0# + Next + y = 0 + While y < yld + x = 0 + While x < xrd + i = 0 + While i < xld + od(x * yld + y) = od(x * yld + y) + ld(i * yld + y) * rd(x * yrd + i) + i = i + 1 + Wend + x = x + 1 + Wend + y = y + 1 + Wend + multMatMat = od + +End Function +' this code will mult a vector with a matrix +Function mulMat4x4Values3d(mat, x,y,z) + tmp = createVec4d(x, y, z, 1) + res = multMatMat(mat, 4, 4, tmp, 1, 3) + mulMat4x4Values3d = createVec3d(res(0), res(1), res(2)) +End Function +Function mulMat4x4Vec3d(mat, vec) + tmp = createVec4d(vec(0), vec(1), vec(2), 1) + res = multMatMat(mat, 4, 4, tmp, 1, 3) + mulMat4x4Vec3d = createVec3d(res(0), res(1), res(2)) +End Function +Function mulMat4x4Mat4x4(mat1, mat2) + mulMat4x4Mat4x4 = multMatMat(mat1, 4, 4, mat2, 4, 4) +End Function +' create a 4x4 matrix +Function createMat4x4() + Dim res(0 To 15) As Double + for i = 0 to 15 + res(i) = 0 + next + createMat4x4 = res +End Function +Function createMat4x4Ident() + Dim res(0 To 15) As Double + res(0) = 1 + res(5) = 1 + res(10) = 1 + res(15) = 1 + res(1) = 0 + res(2) = 0 + res(3) = 0 + res(4) = 0 + res(6) = 0 + res(7) = 0 + res(8) = 0 + res(9) = 0 + res(11) = 0 + res(12) = 0 + res(13) = 0 + res(14) = 0 + createMat4x4Ident = res +End Function +' this function create a new vector +Function createVec3d(x, y, z) + Dim res(0 To 2) As Double + res(0) = x + res(1) = y + res(2) = z + createVec3d = res +End Function +' this function create a new vector +Function createVec4d(x, y, z, w) + Dim res(0 To 3) As Double + res(0) = x + res(1) = y + res(2) = z + res(3) = w + createVec4d = res +End Function + +Function getMatTVec(mat) + getMatTVec = createVec3d(mat(12), mat(13), mat(14)) +End Function + +Sub setMatTVec(mat, v) + mat(12) = v(0) + mat(13) = v(1) + mat(14) = v(2) +End Sub +Sub setMatXVec(mat, v) + mat(0) = v(0) + mat(1) = v(1) + mat(2) = v(2) +End Sub +Sub setMatYVec(mat, v) + mat(4) = v(0) + mat(5) = v(1) + mat(6) = v(2) +End Sub +Sub setMatZVec(mat, v) + mat(8) = v(0) + mat(9) = v(1) + mat(10) = v(2) +End Sub +Sub setMatScale(mat, s) + mat(15) = s +End Sub +Function getMatXVec(mat) + getMatXVec = createVec3d(mat(0), mat(1), mat(2)) +End Function +Function getMatYVec(mat) + getMatYVec = createVec3d(mat(4), mat(5), mat(6)) +End Function +Function getMatZVec(mat) + getMatZVec = createVec3d(mat(8), mat(9), mat(10)) +End Function + +Function negVec3d(v) + negVec3d = createVec3d(-v(0), -v(1), -v(2)) +End Function +Function scaleVec3d(v,s) + scaleVec3d = createVec3d(v(0)*s,v(1)*s,v(2)*s) +End Function +' invert a 4x4 matrix +Function invMat4x4(source) +target = copyMat4x4(source) +setMatTVec target, createVec3d(0, 0, 0) + target(1) = source(4) + target(4) = source(1) + target(2) = source(8) + target(8) = source(2) + target(6) = source(9) + target(9) = source(6) + setMatScale target,1 + t = getMatTVec(source) + v = mulMat4x4Vec3d(target, t) + setMatTVec target, negVec3d(v) + invMat4x4 = target +End Function +Function IsEqual(argVec3DA, argVec3DB) + For i = 0 To 2 + If( argVec3DA(i) <> argVec3DB(i) ) Then + Exit For + End If + Next + If(i = 3) Then + IsEqual = 1 + Else + IsEqual = 0 + End If +End Function +Function getFaceFromModel(part, pos, normal) + Dim partBodies As Variant + partBodies = part.GetBodies(swSolidBody) + For k = LBound(partBodies) To UBound(partBodies) + found = 0 + Dim body As Object + Set body = partBodies(k) + Set face = body.GetFirstFace() + Set getFaceFromModel = nothing + minDist = -1 + Do While Not face Is Nothing ' While we have a valid feature + Set sur = face.GetSurface() + If sur.IsPlane() Then + planePara = sur.PlaneParams + faceNormal = face.normal + nTest = faceNormal(0) * normal(0) + faceNormal(1) * normal(1) + faceNormal(2) * normal(2) + If nTest > 1 - 0.000001 Then + ' check projection + closeRes = face.GetClosestPointOn(pos(0), pos(1), pos(2)) + dTest = (pos(0) - closeRes(0)) * (pos(0) - closeRes(0)) + (pos(1) - closeRes(1)) * (pos(1) - closeRes(1)) + (pos(2) - closeRes(2)) * (pos(2) - closeRes(2)) + If ( dTest < minDist Or minDist = -1 ) Then + Set getFaceFromModel = face + minDist = dTest + found=1 + End If + End If + else + If sur.IsCylinder() then + closeRes = face.GetClosestPointOn(pos(0), pos(1), pos(2)) + dTest = (pos(0) - closeRes(0)) * (pos(0) - closeRes(0)) + (pos(1) - closeRes(1)) * (pos(1) - closeRes(1)) + (pos(2) - closeRes(2)) * (pos(2) - closeRes(2)) + If ( dTest < minDist Or minDist = -1 ) Then + res=sur.EvaluateAtPoint(closeRes(0),closeRes(1),closeRes(2)) + nTest=res(0)*normal(0)+res(1)*normal(1)+res(2)*normal(2) + if nTest>1-0.00000001 then + Set getFaceFromModel = face + found=1 + End if + End if + End if + End if + Set face = face.GetNextFace ' Get the next Face + Loop + If (found = 1) Then + Exit For + End If + Next k +End Function +Function getEdgeFromModel(part, pos,byref edgeRet) + Dim partBodies As Variant + partBodies = part.GetBodies(swSolidBody) + For k = LBound(partBodies) To UBound(partBodies) + Dim body As Object + Set body = partBodies(k) + edges= body.GetEdges() + start= LBound(edges) + ende = UBound(edges) + For i = start To ende + Set edge = edges(i) + closeRes=edge.GetClosestPointOn(pos(0),pos(1),pos(2)) + dTest = (pos(0) - closeRes(0)) * (pos(0) - closeRes(0)) + (pos(1) - closeRes(1)) * (pos(1) - closeRes(1)) + (pos(2) - closeRes(2)) * (pos(2) - closeRes(2)) + If dTest < 0.00000001 Then + set edgeRet=edge + getEdgeFromModel=true + exit function + End If + Next i + Next k + getEdgeFromModel=false +End Function +sub cLn(part,wMat,x1,y1,x2,y2) +pk1=mulMat4x4Values3d(wMat,x1,y1,0) +pk2=mulMat4x4Values3d(wMat,x2,y2,0) +Part.SketchManager.CreateLine pk1(0),pk1(1),0,pk2(0),pk2(1),0 +end sub +sub cCLn(part,wMat,x1,y1,x2,y2) +pk1=mulMat4x4Values3d(wMat,x1,y1,0) +pk2=mulMat4x4Values3d(wMat,x2,y2,0) +Part.CreateCenterLineVB pk1(0),pk1(1),0,pk2(0),pk2(1),0 +end sub +sub cArc(part,wMat,x1,y1,x2,y2,x3,y3) +pk1=mulMat4x4Values3d(wMat,x1,y1,0) +pk2=mulMat4x4Values3d(wMat,x2,y2,0) +pk3=mulMat4x4Values3d(wMat,x3,y3,0) +Part.SketchManager.Create3PointArc pk1(0),pk1(1),0,pk3(0),pk3(1),0,pk2(0),pk2(1),0 +end sub +sub cCir(part,wMat,x1,y1,rad) +pk1=mulMat4x4Values3d(wMat,x1,y1,0) +Part.SketchManager.CreateCircleByRadius pk1(0),pk1(1),0,rad +end sub +Public Function BrowseForFolder +Dim objFolder, objShell +Set objShell = CreateObject("Shell.Application") +Set objFolder = objShell.BrowseForFolder(0, "Please select the folder..", BIF_BrowseFolder, IniFolder) +If Not (objFolder Is Nothing) Then + BrowseForFolder = objFolder.Self.path +End If +End Function +Sub SelectCommonEdge(argFaceA, argFaceB) + edgesA = argFaceA.GetEdges + edgesB = argFaceB.GetEdges + For Each edgeA In edgesA + Set vertexA1 = edgeA.GetStartVertex + Set vertexA2 = edgeA.GetEndVertex + pointA1 = vertexA1.GetPoint + pointA2 = vertexA2.GetPoint + For Each edgeB In edgesB + Set vertexB1 = edgeB.GetStartVertex + Set vertexB2 = edgeB.GetEndVertex + pointB1 = vertexB1.GetPoint + pointB2 = vertexB2.GetPoint + If ( (IsEqual(pointA1, pointB1) And IsEqual(pointA2, pointB2)) Or (IsEqual(pointA1, pointB2) And IsEqual(pointA2, pointB1)) ) Then + edgeA.Select(True) + Exit Sub + End If + Next + Next +End Sub +Sub CreatePart0 +dim errors as long +dim warnings as long +Dim longstatus As Long +if (docVisible=0) then + swApp.DocumentVisible 0, 1 +end if +set res=swApp.OpenDoc6 ( storePath & "SBR20UU.sldprt",1,3,"", errors, warnings) +swApp.ActivateDoc2 "SBR20UU.sldprt", False, longstatus +if not res is nothing then + if (docVisible=0) then + swApp.DocumentVisible 1, 1 + end if + exit sub +end if +if (docVisible=0) then + swApp.DocumentVisible 1, 1 +end if +Dim sPartTemplateName As String +sPartTemplateName = swApp.GetUserPreferenceStringValue(8) +Set part = swApp.NewDocument(sPartTemplateName, 0, 0, 0) +swApp.ActivateDoc2 "SBR20UU.sldprt", False, longstatus +Set part = swApp.ActiveDoc +part.SketchManager.AddToDB = true +part.SketchManager.DisplayWhenAdded = false +part.ActiveView.EnableGraphicsUpdate = false +Set modelExt = part.Extension +Set customPropMgr = modelExt.CustomPropertyManager("") +customPropMgr.Add2 "NB", 30, "SBR20UU" +customPropMgr.Add2 "NN", 30, "SBR" +customPropMgr.Add2 "NT", 30, "Linear Motion Ball Bearing Slide Units" +customPropMgr.Add2 "NBSYN", 30, "$CNSTYPECODE." +customPropMgr.Add2 "LINA", 30, "SBR20UU" +customPropMgr.Add2 "CATALOG", 30, "YTP" +customPropMgr.Add2 "MODEL", 30, "SBR20UU" +customPropMgr.Add2 "IB", 30, "LM20UU-OP" +customPropMgr.Add2 "SD", 30, "20" +customPropMgr.Add2 "H", 30, "23" +customPropMgr.Add2 "E", 30, "24.0" +customPropMgr.Add2 "W", 30, "48" +customPropMgr.Add2 "L", 30, "50" +customPropMgr.Add2 "F", 30, "39.0" +customPropMgr.Add2 "T", 30, "11.0" +customPropMgr.Add2 "HH1", 30, "10.0" +customPropMgr.Add2 "ANG", 30, "60" +customPropMgr.Add2 "B", 30, "35.0" +customPropMgr.Add2 "C", 30, "35" +customPropMgr.Add2 "S", 30, "M6" +customPropMgr.Add2 "I", 30, "12" +customPropMgr.Add2 "CC", 30, "88" +customPropMgr.Add2 "CO", 30, "140" +customPropMgr.Add2 "WEIGHT", 30, "0.200" +customPropMgr.Add2 "PS", 30, "GBT/16940-2012" +customPropMgr.Add2 "MAT1", 30, "6063 Aluminium Alloy" +customPropMgr.Add2 "TS1", 30, "Natural Anodic Oxidation (Conventional)" +customPropMgr.Add2 "TS2", 30, "Black Anodic Oxidation Treatment (Customized)" +customPropMgr.Add2 "TEMPERATUER", 30, "-20~80" +customPropMgr.Add2 "SUPPLIER", 30, "YTP" +customPropMgr.Add2 "ARTICLENO", 30, "SBR20UU" +customPropMgr.Add2 "BOMINFO", 30, "SBR20UU" +customPropMgr.Add2 "CREATOR", 30, "CADENAS GmbH" +customPropMgr.Add2 "IsFastener", 30, "0" +part.SummaryInfo(0)="SBR20UU" +part.SummaryInfo(4)="Linear Motion Ball Bearing Slide Units" +part.SummaryInfo(2)="Cadenas PARTsolutions" +valRGB=part.MaterialPropertyValues +valRGB(0)=0.75 +valRGB(1)=0.75 +valRGB(2)=0.75 +valRGB(7)=0 +part.MaterialPropertyValues=valRGB +Dim featMgr as object +set featMgr = part.FeatureManager +codeBag0 part,featMgr +part.ActiveView.EnableGraphicsUpdate = true +part.SketchManager.DisplayWhenAdded = true +part.SketchManager.AddToDB = false +part.EditRebuild3 +part.Rebuild swRebuildAll +Set modelExt = part.Extension +modelExt.SaveAs storePath & "SBR20UU.sldprt",0,0,nothing,errors,warnings +End Sub +sub codeBag1(part,wMat) +cLn part,wMat,-0.024,0.022,-0.024,0.012 +cLn part,wMat,-0.024,0.012,-0.0225,0.0105 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0225,0.0105,-0.0225,-0.0144 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0225,-0.0144,-0.0215,-0.0154 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0215,-0.0154,-0.0095840144685478,-0.0154 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0095840144685478,-0.0154,-0.0055106071276578,-0.0083446515256545 +cArc part,wMat,-0.0055106071276578,-0.0083446515256545,3.9497954175685e-18,0.01,0.0055106071276578,-0.0083446515256545 +cLn part,wMat,0.0055106071276578,-0.0083446515256545,0.0095840144685478,-0.0154 +cLn part,wMat,0.0095840144685478,-0.0154,0.0215,-0.0154 +cLn part,wMat,0.0215,-0.0154,0.0225,-0.0144 +cLn part,wMat,0.0225,-0.0144,0.0225,0.0105 +cLn part,wMat,0.0225,0.0105,0.024,0.012 +cLn part,wMat,0.024,0.012,0.024,0.022 +cLn part,wMat,0.024,0.022,0.023,0.023 +cLn part,wMat,0.023,0.023,0.0105,0.023 +cLn part,wMat,0.0105,0.023,0.0095,0.022 +cLn part,wMat,0.0095,0.022,-0.0095,0.022 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0095,0.022,-0.0105,0.023 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0105,0.023,-0.023,0.023 +cLn part,wMat,-0.023,0.023,-0.024,0.022 +Part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +end sub + +sub codeBag2(part,wMat) +cLn part,wMat,-0.0215,-0.016,-0.009237604307034,-0.016 +cLn part,wMat,-0.009237604307034,-0.016,-0.005,-0.0086602540378444 +cArc part,wMat,-0.005,-0.0086602540378444,-0.00525767218305,-0.0085062849244298,-0.0055106071276578,-0.0083446515256545 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0055106071276578,-0.0083446515256545,-0.0095840144685478,-0.0154 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0095840144685478,-0.0154,-0.0215,-0.0154 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0215,-0.0154,-0.0215,-0.016 +Part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +end sub + +sub codeBag3(part,wMat) +cLn part,wMat,0.005,-0.0086602540378444,0.009237604307034,-0.016 +cLn part,wMat,0.009237604307034,-0.016,0.0215,-0.016 +cLn part,wMat,0.0215,-0.016,0.0215,-0.0154 +cLn part,wMat,0.0215,-0.0154,0.0095840144685478,-0.0154 +cLn part,wMat,0.0095840144685478,-0.0154,0.0055106071276578,-0.0083446515256545 +cArc part,wMat,0.0055106071276578,-0.0083446515256545,0.00525767218305,-0.0085062849244298,0.005,-0.0086602540378444 +Part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +end sub + +sub codeBag4(part,wMat) +cCir part,wMat,0.0175,0.0175,0.0025 +cLn part,wMat,0.0155,0.017,0.016633974596216,0.017 +cArc part,wMat,0.016633974596216,0.017,0.016792893218813,0.016792893218813,0.017,0.016633974596216 +cLn part,wMat,0.017,0.016633974596216,0.017,0.0155 +cLn part,wMat,0.017,0.0155,0.018,0.0155 +cLn part,wMat,0.018,0.0155,0.018,0.016633974596216 +cArc part,wMat,0.018,0.016633974596216,0.018207106781187,0.016792893218813,0.018366025403784,0.017 +cLn part,wMat,0.018366025403784,0.017,0.0195,0.017 +cLn part,wMat,0.0195,0.017,0.0195,0.018 +cLn part,wMat,0.0195,0.018,0.018366025403784,0.018 +cArc part,wMat,0.018366025403784,0.018,0.018207106781187,0.018207106781187,0.018,0.018366025403784 +cLn part,wMat,0.018,0.018366025403784,0.018,0.0195 +cLn part,wMat,0.018,0.0195,0.017,0.0195 +cLn part,wMat,0.017,0.0195,0.017,0.018366025403784 +cArc part,wMat,0.017,0.018366025403784,0.016792893218813,0.018207106781187,0.016633974596216,0.018 +cLn part,wMat,0.016633974596216,0.018,0.0155,0.018 +cLn part,wMat,0.0155,0.018,0.0155,0.017 +Part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +end sub + +sub codeBag5(part,wMat) +cCir part,wMat,0.0175,-0.0175,0.0025 +cLn part,wMat,0.0155,-0.017,0.0155,-0.018 +cLn part,wMat,0.0155,-0.018,0.016633974596216,-0.018 +cArc part,wMat,0.016633974596216,-0.018,0.016792893218813,-0.018207106781187,0.017,-0.018366025403784 +cLn part,wMat,0.017,-0.018366025403784,0.017,-0.0195 +cLn part,wMat,0.017,-0.0195,0.018,-0.0195 +cLn part,wMat,0.018,-0.0195,0.018,-0.018366025403784 +cArc part,wMat,0.018,-0.018366025403784,0.018207106781187,-0.018207106781187,0.018366025403784,-0.018 +cLn part,wMat,0.018366025403784,-0.018,0.0195,-0.018 +cLn part,wMat,0.0195,-0.018,0.0195,-0.017 +cLn part,wMat,0.0195,-0.017,0.018366025403784,-0.017 +cArc part,wMat,0.018366025403784,-0.017,0.018207106781187,-0.016792893218813,0.018,-0.016633974596216 +cLn part,wMat,0.018,-0.016633974596216,0.018,-0.0155 +cLn part,wMat,0.018,-0.0155,0.017,-0.0155 +cLn part,wMat,0.017,-0.0155,0.017,-0.016633974596216 +cArc part,wMat,0.017,-0.016633974596216,0.016792893218813,-0.016792893218813,0.016633974596216,-0.017 +cLn part,wMat,0.016633974596216,-0.017,0.0155,-0.017 +Part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +end sub + +sub codeBag6(part,wMat) +cCir part,wMat,-0.0175,0.0175,0.0025 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0195,0.018,-0.0195,0.017 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0195,0.017,-0.018366025403784,0.017 +cArc part,wMat,-0.018366025403784,0.017,-0.018207106781187,0.016792893218813,-0.018,0.016633974596216 +cLn part,wMat,-0.018,0.016633974596216,-0.018,0.0155 +cLn part,wMat,-0.018,0.0155,-0.017,0.0155 +cLn part,wMat,-0.017,0.0155,-0.017,0.016633974596216 +cArc part,wMat,-0.017,0.016633974596216,-0.016792893218813,0.016792893218813,-0.016633974596216,0.017 +cLn part,wMat,-0.016633974596216,0.017,-0.0155,0.017 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0155,0.017,-0.0155,0.018 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0155,0.018,-0.016633974596216,0.018 +cArc part,wMat,-0.016633974596216,0.018,-0.016792893218813,0.018207106781187,-0.017,0.018366025403784 +cLn part,wMat,-0.017,0.018366025403784,-0.017,0.0195 +cLn part,wMat,-0.017,0.0195,-0.018,0.0195 +cLn part,wMat,-0.018,0.0195,-0.018,0.018366025403784 +cArc part,wMat,-0.018,0.018366025403784,-0.018207106781187,0.018207106781187,-0.018366025403784,0.018 +cLn part,wMat,-0.018366025403784,0.018,-0.0195,0.018 +Part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +end sub + +sub codeBag7(part,wMat) +cCir part,wMat,-0.0175,-0.0175,0.0025 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0195,-0.018,-0.018366025403784,-0.018 +cArc part,wMat,-0.018366025403784,-0.018,-0.018207106781187,-0.018207106781187,-0.018,-0.018366025403784 +cLn part,wMat,-0.018,-0.018366025403784,-0.018,-0.0195 +cLn part,wMat,-0.018,-0.0195,-0.017,-0.0195 +cLn part,wMat,-0.017,-0.0195,-0.017,-0.018366025403784 +cArc part,wMat,-0.017,-0.018366025403784,-0.016792893218813,-0.018207106781187,-0.016633974596216,-0.018 +cLn part,wMat,-0.016633974596216,-0.018,-0.0155,-0.018 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0155,-0.018,-0.0155,-0.017 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0155,-0.017,-0.016633974596216,-0.017 +cArc part,wMat,-0.016633974596216,-0.017,-0.016792893218813,-0.016792893218813,-0.017,-0.016633974596216 +cLn part,wMat,-0.017,-0.016633974596216,-0.017,-0.0155 +cLn part,wMat,-0.017,-0.0155,-0.018,-0.0155 +cLn part,wMat,-0.018,-0.0155,-0.018,-0.016633974596216 +cArc part,wMat,-0.018,-0.016633974596216,-0.018207106781187,-0.016792893218813,-0.018366025403784,-0.017 +cLn part,wMat,-0.018366025403784,-0.017,-0.0195,-0.017 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0195,-0.017,-0.0195,-0.018 +Part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +end sub + +sub codeBag8(part,wMat) +cLn part,wMat,-0.0175,0.023,-0.0145,0.023 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0145,0.023,-0.0150415,0.0224585 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0150415,0.0224585,-0.0150415,0.011 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0150415,0.011,-0.0175,0.011 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0175,0.011,-0.0175,0.023 +cCLn part,wMat,-0.0175,0.011,-0.0175,0.023 +Part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +end sub + +sub codeBag9(part,wMat) +cLn part,wMat,-0.0175,0.023,-0.0145,0.023 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0145,0.023,-0.0150415,0.0224585 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0150415,0.0224585,-0.0150415,0.011 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0150415,0.011,-0.0175,0.011 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0175,0.011,-0.0175,0.023 +cCLn part,wMat,-0.0175,0.011,-0.0175,0.023 +Part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +end sub + +sub codeBag10(part,wMat) +cLn part,wMat,-0.0175,0.023,-0.0145,0.023 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0145,0.023,-0.0150415,0.0224585 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0150415,0.0224585,-0.0150415,0.011 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0150415,0.011,-0.0175,0.011 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0175,0.011,-0.0175,0.023 +cCLn part,wMat,-0.0175,0.011,-0.0175,0.023 +Part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +end sub + +sub codeBag11(part,wMat) +cLn part,wMat,-0.0175,0.023,-0.0145,0.023 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0145,0.023,-0.0150415,0.0224585 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0150415,0.0224585,-0.0150415,0.011 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0150415,0.011,-0.0175,0.011 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0175,0.011,-0.0175,0.023 +cCLn part,wMat,-0.0175,0.011,-0.0175,0.023 +Part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +end sub + +sub codeBag0(part,featMgr) +part.CreatePlaneFixed2 createVec3d(0,0,0),createVec3d(0,0,-1),createVec3d(0,1,0),1 +set feat4=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat4.select2 false,0 +part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +part.BlankRefGeom +Set swActiveMat = Part.SketchManager.ActiveSketch +swSketchMat= createMatFromSWMat(swActiveMat.ModelToSketchXForm) +mSkMat=createMat4x4FromValues(0,0,-1,0,1,0,1,0,0,0,0,0) +wMat=mulMat4x4Mat4x4(swSketchMat,mSkMat) +codeBag1 part,wMat +set feat4=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat4.select2 false,0 +featMgr.FeatureExtrusion2 0,0,1,0,0,0.025,0.025,1,1,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,1,1,1,0,0,0 +part.CreatePlaneFixed2 createVec3d(0,0,0),createVec3d(0,0,-1),createVec3d(0,1,0),1 +set feat6=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat6.select2 false,0 +part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +part.BlankRefGeom +Set swActiveMat = Part.SketchManager.ActiveSketch +swSketchMat= createMatFromSWMat(swActiveMat.ModelToSketchXForm) +mSkMat=createMat4x4FromValues(0,0,-1,0,1,0,1,0,0,0,0,0) +wMat=mulMat4x4Mat4x4(swSketchMat,mSkMat) +codeBag2 part,wMat +set feat6=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat6.select2 false,0 +featMgr.FeatureExtrusion2 0,0,1,0,0,0.0225,0.0225,1,1,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,1,1,1,0,0,0 +part.CreatePlaneFixed2 createVec3d(0,0,0),createVec3d(0,0,-1),createVec3d(0,1,0),1 +set feat8=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat8.select2 false,0 +part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +part.BlankRefGeom +Set swActiveMat = Part.SketchManager.ActiveSketch +swSketchMat= createMatFromSWMat(swActiveMat.ModelToSketchXForm) +mSkMat=createMat4x4FromValues(0,0,-1,0,1,0,1,0,0,0,0,0) +wMat=mulMat4x4Mat4x4(swSketchMat,mSkMat) +codeBag3 part,wMat +set feat8=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat8.select2 false,0 +featMgr.FeatureExtrusion2 0,0,1,0,0,0.0225,0.0225,1,1,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,1,1,1,0,0,0 +part.CreatePlaneFixed2 createVec3d(0,-0.016,0),createVec3d(1,-0.016,0),createVec3d(0,-0.016,-1),1 +set feat11=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat11.select2 false,0 +part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +part.BlankRefGeom +Set swActiveMat = Part.SketchManager.ActiveSketch +swSketchMat= createMatFromSWMat(swActiveMat.ModelToSketchXForm) +mSkMat=createMat4x4FromValues(1,0,0,0,0,-1,0,1,0,0,-0.016,0) +wMat=mulMat4x4Mat4x4(swSketchMat,mSkMat) +codeBag4 part,wMat +set feat11=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat11.select2 false,0 +featMgr.FeatureExtrusion2 1,0,1,0,0,0.0005,0.0005,1,1,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,1,1,1,0,0,0 +part.CreatePlaneFixed2 createVec3d(0,-0.016,0),createVec3d(1,-0.016,0),createVec3d(0,-0.016,-1),1 +set feat13=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat13.select2 false,0 +part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +part.BlankRefGeom +Set swActiveMat = Part.SketchManager.ActiveSketch +swSketchMat= createMatFromSWMat(swActiveMat.ModelToSketchXForm) +mSkMat=createMat4x4FromValues(1,0,0,0,0,-1,0,1,0,0,-0.016,0) +wMat=mulMat4x4Mat4x4(swSketchMat,mSkMat) +codeBag5 part,wMat +set feat13=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat13.select2 false,0 +featMgr.FeatureExtrusion2 1,0,1,0,0,0.0005,0.0005,1,1,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,1,1,1,0,0,0 +part.CreatePlaneFixed2 createVec3d(0,-0.016,0),createVec3d(1,-0.016,0),createVec3d(0,-0.016,-1),1 +set feat15=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat15.select2 false,0 +part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +part.BlankRefGeom +Set swActiveMat = Part.SketchManager.ActiveSketch +swSketchMat= createMatFromSWMat(swActiveMat.ModelToSketchXForm) +mSkMat=createMat4x4FromValues(1,0,0,0,0,-1,0,1,0,0,-0.016,0) +wMat=mulMat4x4Mat4x4(swSketchMat,mSkMat) +codeBag6 part,wMat +set feat15=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat15.select2 false,0 +featMgr.FeatureExtrusion2 1,0,1,0,0,0.0005,0.0005,1,1,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,1,1,1,0,0,0 +part.CreatePlaneFixed2 createVec3d(0,-0.016,0),createVec3d(1,-0.016,0),createVec3d(0,-0.016,-1),1 +set feat17=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat17.select2 false,0 +part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +part.BlankRefGeom +Set swActiveMat = Part.SketchManager.ActiveSketch +swSketchMat= createMatFromSWMat(swActiveMat.ModelToSketchXForm) +mSkMat=createMat4x4FromValues(1,0,0,0,0,-1,0,1,0,0,-0.016,0) +wMat=mulMat4x4Mat4x4(swSketchMat,mSkMat) +codeBag7 part,wMat +set feat17=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat17.select2 false,0 +featMgr.FeatureExtrusion2 1,0,1,0,0,0.0005,0.0005,1,1,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,1,1,1,0,0,0 +part.CreatePlaneFixed2 createVec3d(0.0175,0,0),createVec3d(0.0175,0,-1),createVec3d(0.0175,1,0),1 +set feat22=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat22.select2 false,0 +part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +part.BlankRefGeom +Set swActiveMat = Part.SketchManager.ActiveSketch +swSketchMat= createMatFromSWMat(swActiveMat.ModelToSketchXForm) +mSkMat=createMat4x4FromValues(0,0,-1,0,1,0,1,0,0,0.0175,0,0) +wMat=mulMat4x4Mat4x4(swSketchMat,mSkMat) +codeBag8 part,wMat +set feat22=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat22.select2 false,0 +featMgr.FeatureRevolveCut2 6.2831853071796,1,6.2831853071796,0,0,1,1,false,false,false + if getEdgeFromModel(part,createVec3d(0.0175,0.0224585,0.0150415),cylEdge) then + cylEdge.Select(false) + Part.InsertCosmeticThread 0,0.006,0.012,"" + elseif getEdgeFromModel(part,createVec3d(0.0175,0.011,0.0150415),cylEdge) then + cylEdge.Select(false) + Part.InsertCosmeticThread 0,0.006,0.012,"" + End If +part.CreatePlaneFixed2 createVec3d(-0.0175,0,0),createVec3d(-0.0175,0,-1),createVec3d(-0.0175,1,0),1 +set feat28=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat28.select2 false,0 +part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +part.BlankRefGeom +Set swActiveMat = Part.SketchManager.ActiveSketch +swSketchMat= createMatFromSWMat(swActiveMat.ModelToSketchXForm) +mSkMat=createMat4x4FromValues(0,0,-1,0,1,0,1,0,0,-0.0175,0,0) +wMat=mulMat4x4Mat4x4(swSketchMat,mSkMat) +codeBag9 part,wMat +set feat28=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat28.select2 false,0 +featMgr.FeatureRevolveCut2 6.2831853071796,1,6.2831853071796,0,0,1,1,false,false,false + if getEdgeFromModel(part,createVec3d(-0.0175,0.0224585,0.0150415),cylEdge) then + cylEdge.Select(false) + Part.InsertCosmeticThread 0,0.006,0.012,"" + elseif getEdgeFromModel(part,createVec3d(-0.0175,0.011,0.0150415),cylEdge) then + cylEdge.Select(false) + Part.InsertCosmeticThread 0,0.006,0.012,"" + End If +part.CreatePlaneFixed2 createVec3d(0.0175,0,-0.035),createVec3d(0.0175,0,-1.035),createVec3d(0.0175,1,-0.035),1 +set feat29=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat29.select2 false,0 +part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +part.BlankRefGeom +Set swActiveMat = Part.SketchManager.ActiveSketch +swSketchMat= createMatFromSWMat(swActiveMat.ModelToSketchXForm) +mSkMat=createMat4x4FromValues(0,0,-1,0,1,0,1,0,0,0.0175,0,-0.035) +wMat=mulMat4x4Mat4x4(swSketchMat,mSkMat) +codeBag10 part,wMat +set feat29=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat29.select2 false,0 +featMgr.FeatureRevolveCut2 6.2831853071796,1,6.2831853071796,0,0,1,1,false,false,false + if getEdgeFromModel(part,createVec3d(0.0175,0.0224585,-0.0199585),cylEdge) then + cylEdge.Select(false) + Part.InsertCosmeticThread 0,0.006,0.012,"" + elseif getEdgeFromModel(part,createVec3d(0.0175,0.011,-0.0199585),cylEdge) then + cylEdge.Select(false) + Part.InsertCosmeticThread 0,0.006,0.012,"" + End If +part.CreatePlaneFixed2 createVec3d(-0.0175,0,-0.035),createVec3d(-0.0175,0,-1.035),createVec3d(-0.0175,1,-0.035),1 +set feat30=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat30.select2 false,0 +part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +part.BlankRefGeom +Set swActiveMat = Part.SketchManager.ActiveSketch +swSketchMat= createMatFromSWMat(swActiveMat.ModelToSketchXForm) +mSkMat=createMat4x4FromValues(0,0,-1,0,1,0,1,0,0,-0.0175,0,-0.035) +wMat=mulMat4x4Mat4x4(swSketchMat,mSkMat) +codeBag11 part,wMat +set feat30=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat30.select2 false,0 +featMgr.FeatureRevolveCut2 6.2831853071796,1,6.2831853071796,0,0,1,1,false,false,false + if getEdgeFromModel(part,createVec3d(-0.0175,0.0224585,-0.0199585),cylEdge) then + cylEdge.Select(false) + Part.InsertCosmeticThread 0,0.006,0.012,"" + elseif getEdgeFromModel(part,createVec3d(-0.0175,0.011,-0.0199585),cylEdge) then + cylEdge.Select(false) + Part.InsertCosmeticThread 0,0.006,0.012,"" + End If +end sub + +sub main +set swApp = Application.SldWorks +code = swApp.RevisionNumber +found = InStr(code, ".") +If (found > 0) Then + code = Left(code, found-1) + docVisible=1 + If (CInt(code) >= 18) Then + docVisible=0 + End If +End If +swApp.SetUserPreferenceToggle 11, FALSE +swApp.SetUserPreferenceToggle 97, FALSE +storePath=BrowseForFolder +If (storePath <> "") Then + If ((Right(storePath, 1) <> "\") And (Right(storePath, 1) <> "/")) Then + storePath = storePath + "\" + End If + createPart0 +End If +end sub diff --git a/sheetpress/components/sprcb-800-rc2_/cad/rails/SBSg620-500L (25 3).stp b/sheetpress/components/sprcb-800-rc2_/cad/rails/SBSg620-500L (25 3).stp new file mode 100644 index 000000000..819e2a4da --- /dev/null +++ b/sheetpress/components/sprcb-800-rc2_/cad/rails/SBSg620-500L (25 3).stp @@ -0,0 +1,3226 @@ +ISO-10303-21; +HEADER; +FILE_DESCRIPTION( ( 'STEP AP214' ), '1' ); +FILE_NAME( 'p:/temp/worker_17/temp/exporttempdir_5020_294_RhhAk/format_0/SBSg620-500L (25 3).stp', '2021-10-14T09:31:31', ( 'License CC BY-ND 4.0' ), ( 'CADENAS' ), ' ', 'PARTsolutions', ' ' ); +FILE_SCHEMA( ( 'AUTOMOTIVE_DESIGN { 1 0 10303 214 1 1 1 1 }' ) ); +ENDSEC; +DATA; +#1 = MECHANICAL_DESIGN_GEOMETRIC_PRESENTATION_REPRESENTATION( ' ', ( #10, #11, #12, #13, #14, #15, #16, #17, #18, #19, #20, #21, #22, #23, #24, #25, #26, #27, #28, #29, #30, #31, #32, #33, #34, #35, #36, #37, #38, #39, 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b/sheetpress/components/sprcb-800-rc2_/cad/rails/SBSg620-500L (25 3).swb new file mode 100644 index 000000000..6a2ddf124 --- /dev/null +++ b/sheetpress/components/sprcb-800-rc2_/cad/rails/SBSg620-500L (25 3).swb @@ -0,0 +1,909 @@ +dim swApp +dim storePath +dim docVisible +Private Const MAX_PATH = 260 +'Directories only +Private Const BIF_RETURNONLYFSDIRS = &H1& +'Windows 2000 (Shell32.dll 5.0) extended dialog +Private Const BIF_NEWDIALOGSTYLE = &H40 +' show edit box +Private Const BIF_EDITBOX = &H10& +' add all dir options +Private Const BIF_BrowseFolder = BIF_EDITBOX Or BIF_RETURNONLYFSDIRS Or BIF_NEWDIALOGSTYLE +' set the virtual desktop as ini folder +Private Const IniFolder = &H0 'Virtual Desktop +Function getLastFeatureByType(model,typ) + Set feat = model.FirstFeature ' Get the 1st feature in part + Set res = Nothing + Count = 0 + Do While Not feat Is Nothing ' While we have a valid feature + If feat.GetTypeName() = typ Then + Set res = feat + End If + Set feat = feat.GetNextFeature() ' Get the next feature + Loop ' Continue until no more + Set getLastFeatureByType = res +End Function +' this code with copy a matrix to a other +Function copyMat4x4(source) +Dim res(0 To 15) As Double +For i = 0 To 15 + res(i) = source(i) +Next +copyMat4x4 = res +End Function + +' This code creates a mat from a sw mat +Function createMatFromSWMat(source) + Dim res(0 To 15) As Double + res(0) = source(0) + res(1) = source(1) + res(2) = source(2) + res(3) = 0 + res(4) = source(3) + res(5) = source(4) + res(6) = source(5) + res(7) = 0 + res(8) = source(6) + res(9) = source(7) + res(10) = source(8) + res(11) = 0 + res(12) = source(9) + res(13) = source(10) + res(14) = source(11) + res(15) = source(12) + createMatFromSWMat = res +End Function +Function createSWMatFromMat(source) + Dim res(0 To 15) As Double + res(0) = source(0) + res(1) = source(1) + res(2) = source(2) + res(3) = source(4) + res(4) = source(5) + res(5) = source(6) + res(6) = source(8) + res(7) = source(9) + res(8) = source(10) + res(9) = source(12) + res(10) = source(13) + res(11) = source(14) + res(12) = source(15) + res(13) = 0 + res(14) = 0 + res(15) = 0 + createSWMatFromMat = res +End Function +Function createMat4x4FromValues(x1,x2,x3,y1,y2,y3,z1,z2,z3,t1,t2,t3) + Dim res(0 To 15) As Double + res(0) = x1 + res(1) = x2 + res(2) = x3 + res(3) = 0 + res(4) = y1 + res(5) = y2 + res(6) = y3 + res(7) = 0 + res(8) = z1 + res(9) = z2 + res(10) =z3 + res(11) = 0 + res(12) = t1 + res(13) = t2 + res(14) = t3 + res(15) = 1 + createMat4x4FromValues = res +End Function +' this code will mult a common mat with any other stuff +Function multMatMat(ld, xld, yld, rd, xrd, yrd) + mulRes = yld * xrd + 'Dim od(0 To 0) As Variant + ReDim od(mulRes - 1) As Double + For i = 0 To mulRes - 1 + od(i) = 0# + Next + y = 0 + While y < yld + x = 0 + While x < xrd + i = 0 + While i < xld + od(x * yld + y) = od(x * yld + y) + ld(i * yld + y) * rd(x * yrd + i) + i = i + 1 + Wend + x = x + 1 + Wend + y = y + 1 + Wend + multMatMat = od + +End Function +' this code will mult a vector with a matrix +Function mulMat4x4Values3d(mat, x,y,z) + tmp = createVec4d(x, y, z, 1) + res = multMatMat(mat, 4, 4, tmp, 1, 3) + mulMat4x4Values3d = createVec3d(res(0), res(1), res(2)) +End Function +Function mulMat4x4Vec3d(mat, vec) + tmp = createVec4d(vec(0), vec(1), vec(2), 1) + res = multMatMat(mat, 4, 4, tmp, 1, 3) + mulMat4x4Vec3d = createVec3d(res(0), res(1), res(2)) +End Function +Function mulMat4x4Mat4x4(mat1, mat2) + mulMat4x4Mat4x4 = multMatMat(mat1, 4, 4, mat2, 4, 4) +End Function +' create a 4x4 matrix +Function createMat4x4() + Dim res(0 To 15) As Double + for i = 0 to 15 + res(i) = 0 + next + createMat4x4 = res +End Function +Function createMat4x4Ident() + Dim res(0 To 15) As Double + res(0) = 1 + res(5) = 1 + res(10) = 1 + res(15) = 1 + res(1) = 0 + res(2) = 0 + res(3) = 0 + res(4) = 0 + res(6) = 0 + res(7) = 0 + res(8) = 0 + res(9) = 0 + res(11) = 0 + res(12) = 0 + res(13) = 0 + res(14) = 0 + createMat4x4Ident = res +End Function +' this function create a new vector +Function createVec3d(x, y, z) + Dim res(0 To 2) As Double + res(0) = x + res(1) = y + res(2) = z + createVec3d = res +End Function +' this function create a new vector +Function createVec4d(x, y, z, w) + Dim res(0 To 3) As Double + res(0) = x + res(1) = y + res(2) = z + res(3) = w + createVec4d = res +End Function + +Function getMatTVec(mat) + getMatTVec = createVec3d(mat(12), mat(13), mat(14)) +End Function + +Sub setMatTVec(mat, v) + mat(12) = v(0) + mat(13) = v(1) + mat(14) = v(2) +End Sub +Sub setMatXVec(mat, v) + mat(0) = v(0) + mat(1) = v(1) + mat(2) = v(2) +End Sub +Sub setMatYVec(mat, v) + mat(4) = v(0) + mat(5) = v(1) + mat(6) = v(2) +End Sub +Sub setMatZVec(mat, v) + mat(8) = v(0) + mat(9) = v(1) + mat(10) = v(2) +End Sub +Sub setMatScale(mat, s) + mat(15) = s +End Sub +Function getMatXVec(mat) + getMatXVec = createVec3d(mat(0), mat(1), mat(2)) +End Function +Function getMatYVec(mat) + getMatYVec = createVec3d(mat(4), mat(5), mat(6)) +End Function +Function getMatZVec(mat) + getMatZVec = createVec3d(mat(8), mat(9), mat(10)) +End Function + +Function negVec3d(v) + negVec3d = createVec3d(-v(0), -v(1), -v(2)) +End Function +Function scaleVec3d(v,s) + scaleVec3d = createVec3d(v(0)*s,v(1)*s,v(2)*s) +End Function +' invert a 4x4 matrix +Function invMat4x4(source) +target = copyMat4x4(source) +setMatTVec target, createVec3d(0, 0, 0) + target(1) = source(4) + target(4) = source(1) + target(2) = source(8) + target(8) = source(2) + target(6) = source(9) + target(9) = source(6) + setMatScale target,1 + t = getMatTVec(source) + v = mulMat4x4Vec3d(target, t) + setMatTVec target, negVec3d(v) + invMat4x4 = target +End Function +Function IsEqual(argVec3DA, argVec3DB) + For i = 0 To 2 + If( argVec3DA(i) <> argVec3DB(i) ) Then + Exit For + End If + Next + If(i = 3) Then + IsEqual = 1 + Else + IsEqual = 0 + End If +End Function +Function getFaceFromModel(part, pos, normal) + Dim partBodies As Variant + partBodies = part.GetBodies(swSolidBody) + For k = LBound(partBodies) To UBound(partBodies) + found = 0 + Dim body As Object + Set body = partBodies(k) + Set face = body.GetFirstFace() + Set getFaceFromModel = nothing + minDist = -1 + Do While Not face Is Nothing ' While we have a valid feature + Set sur = face.GetSurface() + If sur.IsPlane() Then + planePara = sur.PlaneParams + faceNormal = face.normal + nTest = faceNormal(0) * normal(0) + faceNormal(1) * normal(1) + faceNormal(2) * normal(2) + If nTest > 1 - 0.000001 Then + ' check projection + closeRes = face.GetClosestPointOn(pos(0), pos(1), pos(2)) + dTest = (pos(0) - closeRes(0)) * (pos(0) - closeRes(0)) + (pos(1) - closeRes(1)) * (pos(1) - closeRes(1)) + (pos(2) - closeRes(2)) * (pos(2) - closeRes(2)) + If ( dTest < minDist Or minDist = -1 ) Then + Set getFaceFromModel = face + minDist = dTest + found=1 + End If + End If + else + If sur.IsCylinder() then + closeRes = face.GetClosestPointOn(pos(0), pos(1), pos(2)) + dTest = (pos(0) - closeRes(0)) * (pos(0) - closeRes(0)) + (pos(1) - closeRes(1)) * (pos(1) - closeRes(1)) + (pos(2) - closeRes(2)) * (pos(2) - closeRes(2)) + If ( dTest < minDist Or minDist = -1 ) Then + res=sur.EvaluateAtPoint(closeRes(0),closeRes(1),closeRes(2)) + nTest=res(0)*normal(0)+res(1)*normal(1)+res(2)*normal(2) + if nTest>1-0.00000001 then + Set getFaceFromModel = face + found=1 + End if + End if + End if + End if + Set face = face.GetNextFace ' Get the next Face + Loop + If (found = 1) Then + Exit For + End If + Next k +End Function +Function getEdgeFromModel(part, pos,byref edgeRet) + Dim partBodies As Variant + partBodies = part.GetBodies(swSolidBody) + For k = LBound(partBodies) To UBound(partBodies) + Dim body As Object + Set body = partBodies(k) + edges= body.GetEdges() + start= LBound(edges) + ende = UBound(edges) + For i = start To ende + Set edge = edges(i) + closeRes=edge.GetClosestPointOn(pos(0),pos(1),pos(2)) + dTest = (pos(0) - closeRes(0)) * (pos(0) - closeRes(0)) + (pos(1) - closeRes(1)) * (pos(1) - closeRes(1)) + (pos(2) - closeRes(2)) * (pos(2) - closeRes(2)) + If dTest < 0.00000001 Then + set edgeRet=edge + getEdgeFromModel=true + exit function + End If + Next i + Next k + getEdgeFromModel=false +End Function +sub cLn(part,wMat,x1,y1,x2,y2) +pk1=mulMat4x4Values3d(wMat,x1,y1,0) +pk2=mulMat4x4Values3d(wMat,x2,y2,0) +Part.SketchManager.CreateLine pk1(0),pk1(1),0,pk2(0),pk2(1),0 +end sub +sub cCLn(part,wMat,x1,y1,x2,y2) +pk1=mulMat4x4Values3d(wMat,x1,y1,0) +pk2=mulMat4x4Values3d(wMat,x2,y2,0) +Part.CreateCenterLineVB pk1(0),pk1(1),0,pk2(0),pk2(1),0 +end sub +sub cArc(part,wMat,x1,y1,x2,y2,x3,y3) +pk1=mulMat4x4Values3d(wMat,x1,y1,0) +pk2=mulMat4x4Values3d(wMat,x2,y2,0) +pk3=mulMat4x4Values3d(wMat,x3,y3,0) +Part.SketchManager.Create3PointArc pk1(0),pk1(1),0,pk3(0),pk3(1),0,pk2(0),pk2(1),0 +end sub +sub cCir(part,wMat,x1,y1,rad) +pk1=mulMat4x4Values3d(wMat,x1,y1,0) +Part.SketchManager.CreateCircleByRadius pk1(0),pk1(1),0,rad +end sub +Public Function BrowseForFolder +Dim objFolder, objShell +Set objShell = CreateObject("Shell.Application") +Set objFolder = objShell.BrowseForFolder(0, "Please select the folder..", BIF_BrowseFolder, IniFolder) +If Not (objFolder Is Nothing) Then + BrowseForFolder = objFolder.Self.path +End If +End Function +Sub SelectCommonEdge(argFaceA, argFaceB) + edgesA = argFaceA.GetEdges + edgesB = argFaceB.GetEdges + For Each edgeA In edgesA + Set vertexA1 = edgeA.GetStartVertex + Set vertexA2 = edgeA.GetEndVertex + pointA1 = vertexA1.GetPoint + pointA2 = vertexA2.GetPoint + For Each edgeB In edgesB + Set vertexB1 = edgeB.GetStartVertex + Set vertexB2 = edgeB.GetEndVertex + pointB1 = vertexB1.GetPoint + pointB2 = vertexB2.GetPoint + If ( (IsEqual(pointA1, pointB1) And IsEqual(pointA2, pointB2)) Or (IsEqual(pointA1, pointB2) And IsEqual(pointA2, pointB1)) ) Then + edgeA.Select(True) + Exit Sub + End If + Next + Next +End Sub +Sub CreatePart0 +dim errors as long +dim warnings as long +Dim longstatus As Long +if (docVisible=0) then + swApp.DocumentVisible 0, 1 +end if +set res=swApp.OpenDoc6 ( storePath & "SBSg620-500L (25 3).sldprt",1,3,"", errors, warnings) +swApp.ActivateDoc2 "SBSg620-500L (25 3).sldprt", False, longstatus +if not res is nothing then + if (docVisible=0) then + swApp.DocumentVisible 1, 1 + end if + exit sub +end if +if (docVisible=0) then + swApp.DocumentVisible 1, 1 +end if +Dim sPartTemplateName As String +sPartTemplateName = swApp.GetUserPreferenceStringValue(8) +Set part = swApp.NewDocument(sPartTemplateName, 0, 0, 0) +swApp.ActivateDoc2 "SBSg620-500L (25 3).sldprt", False, longstatus +Set part = swApp.ActiveDoc +part.SketchManager.AddToDB = true +part.SketchManager.DisplayWhenAdded = false +part.ActiveView.EnableGraphicsUpdate = false +Set modelExt = part.Extension +Set customPropMgr = modelExt.CustomPropertyManager("") +customPropMgr.Add2 "NB", 30, "SBSg620-500L (25 3)" +customPropMgr.Add2 "NN", 30, "SBS" +customPropMgr.Add2 "NT", 30, "Support Rail Unit" +customPropMgr.Add2 "NBSYN", 30, "SBS$SHAFT.$TOL.$SD1.-$L.L ($N. $NH.)" +customPropMgr.Add2 "LINA", 30, "SBSg620-500L" +customPropMgr.Add2 "CATALOG", 30, "Samick Precision" +customPropMgr.Add2 "PN", 30, "SBS20" +customPropMgr.Add2 "SHAFT", 30, "Standard(SUJ2)" +customPropMgr.Add2 "TOL", 30, "Asian STD g6 Tolerance Shaft" +customPropMgr.Add2 "SD", 30, "F20" +customPropMgr.Add2 "L", 30, "500" +customPropMgr.Add2 "E", 30, "22.5" +customPropMgr.Add2 "HH", 30, "27" +customPropMgr.Add2 "B", 30, "45" +customPropMgr.Add2 "H", 30, "17.72" +customPropMgr.Add2 "T", 30, "5" +customPropMgr.Add2 "F", 30, "19.0" +customPropMgr.Add2 "X", 30, "8.0" +customPropMgr.Add2 "Y", 30, "10.0" +customPropMgr.Add2 "C", 30, "30" +customPropMgr.Add2 "THETA", 30, "50" +customPropMgr.Add2 "S1", 30, "F5.5" +customPropMgr.Add2 "A1", 30, "6.5" +customPropMgr.Add2 "A2", 30, "11.0" +customPropMgr.Add2 "D1", 30, "6.6" +customPropMgr.Add2 "W", 30, "3.500" +customPropMgr.Add2 "MAXL", 30, "3000" +customPropMgr.Add2 "P", 30, "150" +customPropMgr.Add2 "SD1", 30, "20" +customPropMgr.Add2 "SUPPLIER", 30, "SAMICKPR" +customPropMgr.Add2 "ARTICLENO", 30, "SBSg620-500L (25 3)" +customPropMgr.Add2 "BOMINFO", 30, "SBSg620-500L" +customPropMgr.Add2 "CREATOR", 30, "CADENAS GmbH" +customPropMgr.Add2 "IsFastener", 30, "0" +part.SummaryInfo(0)="SBSg620-500L" +part.SummaryInfo(4)="Support Rail Unit" +part.SummaryInfo(2)="Cadenas PARTsolutions" +valRGB=part.MaterialPropertyValues +valRGB(0)=0.68999999761581 +valRGB(1)=0.68999999761581 +valRGB(2)=0.68999999761581 +valRGB(7)=0 +part.MaterialPropertyValues=valRGB +Dim featMgr as object +set featMgr = part.FeatureManager +codeBag0 part,featMgr +codeBag15 part,featMgr +part.ActiveView.EnableGraphicsUpdate = true +part.SketchManager.DisplayWhenAdded = true +part.SketchManager.AddToDB = false +part.EditRebuild3 +part.Rebuild swRebuildAll +Set modelExt = part.Extension +modelExt.SaveAs storePath & "SBSg620-500L (25 3).sldprt",0,0,nothing,errors,warnings +End Sub +sub codeBag1(part,wMat) +cLn part,wMat,-0.0225,-0.0223,-0.0225,-0.0267 +cArc part,wMat,-0.0225,-0.0267,-0.022412132034356,-0.026912132034356,-0.0222,-0.027 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0222,-0.027,0.0222,-0.027 +cArc part,wMat,0.0222,-0.027,0.022412132034356,-0.026912132034356,0.0225,-0.0267 +cLn part,wMat,0.0225,-0.0267,0.0225,-0.0223 +cArc part,wMat,0.0225,-0.0223,0.022412132034356,-0.022087867965644,0.0222,-0.022 +cLn part,wMat,0.0222,-0.022,0.0098,-0.022 +cArc part,wMat,0.0098,-0.022,0.009587867965644,-0.021912132034356,0.0095,-0.0217 +cLn part,wMat,0.0095,-0.0217,0.0095,-0.0173 +cArc part,wMat,0.0095,-0.0173,0.009412132034356,-0.017087867965644,0.0092,-0.017 +cLn part,wMat,0.0092,-0.017,0.0077910161991988,-0.017 +cArc part,wMat,0.0077910161991988,-0.017,0.0076298263166948,-0.016953017433744,0.0075191238630878,-0.016826785478522 +cLn part,wMat,0.0075191238630878,-0.016826785478522,0.0040807712578687,-0.0094532145214778 +cArc part,wMat,0.0040807712578687,-0.0094532145214778,0.0039700688042618,-0.0093269825662561,0.0038088789217578,-0.00928 +cLn part,wMat,0.0038088789217578,-0.00928,-0.0038088789217578,-0.00928 +cArc part,wMat,-0.0038088789217578,-0.00928,-0.0039700688042618,-0.0093269825662561,-0.0040807712578687,-0.0094532145214778 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0040807712578687,-0.0094532145214778,-0.0075191238630878,-0.016826785478522 +cArc part,wMat,-0.0075191238630878,-0.016826785478522,-0.0076298263166948,-0.016953017433744,-0.0077910161991988,-0.017 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0077910161991988,-0.017,-0.0092,-0.017 +cArc part,wMat,-0.0092,-0.017,-0.009412132034356,-0.017087867965644,-0.0095,-0.0173 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0095,-0.0173,-0.0095,-0.0217 +cArc part,wMat,-0.0095,-0.0217,-0.009587867965644,-0.021912132034356,-0.0098,-0.022 +cLn part,wMat,-0.0098,-0.022,-0.0222,-0.022 +cArc part,wMat,-0.0222,-0.022,-0.022412132034356,-0.022087867965644,-0.0225,-0.0223 +Part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +end sub + +sub codeBag2(part,wMat) +cCir part,wMat,0,0,0.01 +Part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +end sub + +sub codeBag3(part,wMat) +cLn part,wMat,0.015,-0.022,0.01775,-0.022 +cLn part,wMat,0.01775,-0.022,0.01775,-0.027 +cLn part,wMat,0.01775,-0.027,0.015,-0.027 +cLn part,wMat,0.015,-0.027,0.015,-0.022 +cCLn part,wMat,0.015,-0.027,0.015,-0.022 +Part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +end sub + +sub codeBag4(part,wMat) +cLn part,wMat,-0.015,-0.027,-0.01775,-0.027 +cLn part,wMat,-0.01775,-0.027,-0.01775,-0.022 +cLn part,wMat,-0.01775,-0.022,-0.015,-0.022 +cLn part,wMat,-0.015,-0.022,-0.015,-0.027 +cCLn part,wMat,-0.015,-0.022,-0.015,-0.027 +Part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +end sub + +sub codeBag5(part,wMat) +cLn part,wMat,0.015,-0.022,0.01775,-0.022 +cLn part,wMat,0.01775,-0.022,0.01775,-0.027 +cLn part,wMat,0.01775,-0.027,0.015,-0.027 +cLn part,wMat,0.015,-0.027,0.015,-0.022 +cCLn part,wMat,0.015,-0.027,0.015,-0.022 +Part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +end sub + +sub codeBag6(part,wMat) +cLn part,wMat,-0.015,-0.027,-0.01775,-0.027 +cLn part,wMat,-0.01775,-0.027,-0.01775,-0.022 +cLn part,wMat,-0.01775,-0.022,-0.015,-0.022 +cLn part,wMat,-0.015,-0.022,-0.015,-0.027 +cCLn part,wMat,-0.015,-0.022,-0.015,-0.027 +Part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +end sub + +sub codeBag7(part,wMat) +cLn part,wMat,0.015,-0.022,0.01775,-0.022 +cLn part,wMat,0.01775,-0.022,0.01775,-0.027 +cLn part,wMat,0.01775,-0.027,0.015,-0.027 +cLn part,wMat,0.015,-0.027,0.015,-0.022 +cCLn part,wMat,0.015,-0.027,0.015,-0.022 +Part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +end sub + +sub codeBag8(part,wMat) +cLn part,wMat,0.015,-0.022,0.01775,-0.022 +cLn part,wMat,0.01775,-0.022,0.01775,-0.027 +cLn part,wMat,0.01775,-0.027,0.015,-0.027 +cLn part,wMat,0.015,-0.027,0.015,-0.022 +cCLn part,wMat,0.015,-0.027,0.015,-0.022 +Part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +end sub + +sub codeBag9(part,wMat) +cLn part,wMat,-0.015,-0.027,-0.01775,-0.027 +cLn part,wMat,-0.01775,-0.027,-0.01775,-0.022 +cLn part,wMat,-0.01775,-0.022,-0.015,-0.022 +cLn part,wMat,-0.015,-0.022,-0.015,-0.027 +cCLn part,wMat,-0.015,-0.022,-0.015,-0.027 +Part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +end sub + +sub codeBag10(part,wMat) +cLn part,wMat,-0.015,-0.027,-0.01775,-0.027 +cLn part,wMat,-0.01775,-0.027,-0.01775,-0.022 +cLn part,wMat,-0.01775,-0.022,-0.015,-0.022 +cLn part,wMat,-0.015,-0.022,-0.015,-0.027 +cCLn part,wMat,-0.015,-0.022,-0.015,-0.027 +Part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +end sub + +sub codeBag11(part,wMat) +cLn part,wMat,-8.8817841970013e-19,-0.0267,0.0049,-0.0267 +cLn part,wMat,0.0049,-0.0267,0.0052,-0.0264 +cLn part,wMat,0.0052,-0.0264,0.0052,-0.0205 +cLn part,wMat,0.0052,-0.0205,0.0055,-0.0205 +cLn part,wMat,0.0055,-0.0205,0.0055,-0.0267 +cArc part,wMat,0.0055,-0.0267,0.005587867965644,-0.026912132034356,0.0058,-0.027 +cLn part,wMat,0.0058,-0.027,-8.8817841970013e-19,-0.027 +cLn part,wMat,-8.8817841970013e-19,-0.027,-8.8817841970013e-19,-0.0267 +cCLn part,wMat,-8.8817841970013e-19,-0.027,-8.8817841970013e-19,-0.0205 +Part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +end sub + +sub codeBag12(part,wMat) +cLn part,wMat,-8.8817841970013e-19,-0.0267,0.0049,-0.0267 +cLn part,wMat,0.0049,-0.0267,0.0052,-0.0264 +cLn part,wMat,0.0052,-0.0264,0.0052,-0.0205 +cLn part,wMat,0.0052,-0.0205,0.0055,-0.0205 +cLn part,wMat,0.0055,-0.0205,0.0055,-0.0267 +cArc part,wMat,0.0055,-0.0267,0.005587867965644,-0.026912132034356,0.0058,-0.027 +cLn part,wMat,0.0058,-0.027,-8.8817841970013e-19,-0.027 +cLn part,wMat,-8.8817841970013e-19,-0.027,-8.8817841970013e-19,-0.0267 +cCLn part,wMat,-8.8817841970013e-19,-0.027,-8.8817841970013e-19,-0.0205 +Part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +end sub + +sub codeBag13(part,wMat) +cLn part,wMat,-8.8817841970013e-19,-0.0267,0.0049,-0.0267 +cLn part,wMat,0.0049,-0.0267,0.0052,-0.0264 +cLn part,wMat,0.0052,-0.0264,0.0052,-0.0205 +cLn part,wMat,0.0052,-0.0205,0.0055,-0.0205 +cLn part,wMat,0.0055,-0.0205,0.0055,-0.0267 +cArc part,wMat,0.0055,-0.0267,0.005587867965644,-0.026912132034356,0.0058,-0.027 +cLn part,wMat,0.0058,-0.027,-8.8817841970013e-19,-0.027 +cLn part,wMat,-8.8817841970013e-19,-0.027,-8.8817841970013e-19,-0.0267 +cCLn part,wMat,-8.8817841970013e-19,-0.027,-8.8817841970013e-19,-0.0205 +Part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +end sub + +sub codeBag14(part,wMat) +cLn part,wMat,-8.8817841970013e-19,-0.0267,0.0049,-0.0267 +cLn part,wMat,0.0049,-0.0267,0.0052,-0.0264 +cLn part,wMat,0.0052,-0.0264,0.0052,-0.0205 +cLn part,wMat,0.0052,-0.0205,0.0055,-0.0205 +cLn part,wMat,0.0055,-0.0205,0.0055,-0.0267 +cArc part,wMat,0.0055,-0.0267,0.005587867965644,-0.026912132034356,0.0058,-0.027 +cLn part,wMat,0.0058,-0.027,-8.8817841970013e-19,-0.027 +cLn part,wMat,-8.8817841970013e-19,-0.027,-8.8817841970013e-19,-0.0267 +cCLn part,wMat,-8.8817841970013e-19,-0.027,-8.8817841970013e-19,-0.0205 +Part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +end sub + +sub codeBag0(part,featMgr) +part.CreatePlaneFixed2 createVec3d(0,0,0),createVec3d(1,0,0),createVec3d(0,1,0),1 +set feat4=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat4.select2 false,0 +part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +part.BlankRefGeom +Set swActiveMat = Part.SketchManager.ActiveSketch +swSketchMat= createMatFromSWMat(swActiveMat.ModelToSketchXForm) +mSkMat=createMat4x4FromValues(1,0,0,0,1,0,0,0,1,0,0,0) +wMat=mulMat4x4Mat4x4(swSketchMat,mSkMat) +codeBag1 part,wMat +set feat4=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat4.select2 false,0 +featMgr.FeatureExtrusion2 1,0,1,0,0,0.5,0.5,1,1,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,1,1,1,0,0,0 +part.CreatePlaneFixed2 createVec3d(0,0,0),createVec3d(1,0,0),createVec3d(0,1,0),1 +set feat6=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat6.select2 false,0 +part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +part.BlankRefGeom +Set swActiveMat = Part.SketchManager.ActiveSketch +swSketchMat= createMatFromSWMat(swActiveMat.ModelToSketchXForm) +mSkMat=createMat4x4FromValues(1,0,0,0,1,0,0,0,1,0,0,0) +wMat=mulMat4x4Mat4x4(swSketchMat,mSkMat) +codeBag2 part,wMat +set feat6=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat6.select2 false,0 +featMgr.FeatureExtrusion2 1,0,1,0,0,0.5,0.5,1,1,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,1,1,1,0,0,0 +part.CreatePlaneFixed2 createVec3d(0,0,-0.025),createVec3d(1,0,-0.025),createVec3d(0,1,-0.025),1 +set feat10=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat10.select2 false,0 +part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +part.BlankRefGeom +Set swActiveMat = Part.SketchManager.ActiveSketch +swSketchMat= createMatFromSWMat(swActiveMat.ModelToSketchXForm) +mSkMat=createMat4x4FromValues(1,0,0,0,1,0,0,0,1,0,0,-0.025) +wMat=mulMat4x4Mat4x4(swSketchMat,mSkMat) +codeBag3 part,wMat +set feat10=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat10.select2 false,0 +featMgr.FeatureRevolveCut2 6.2831853071796,1,6.2831853071796,0,0,1,1,false,false,false +part.CreatePlaneFixed2 createVec3d(0,0,-0.025),createVec3d(1,0,-0.025),createVec3d(0,1,-0.025),1 +set feat12=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat12.select2 false,0 +part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +part.BlankRefGeom +Set swActiveMat = Part.SketchManager.ActiveSketch +swSketchMat= createMatFromSWMat(swActiveMat.ModelToSketchXForm) +mSkMat=createMat4x4FromValues(1,0,0,0,1,0,0,0,1,0,0,-0.025) +wMat=mulMat4x4Mat4x4(swSketchMat,mSkMat) +codeBag4 part,wMat +set feat12=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat12.select2 false,0 +featMgr.FeatureRevolveCut2 6.2831853071796,1,6.2831853071796,0,0,1,1,false,false,false +part.CreatePlaneFixed2 createVec3d(0,0,-0.475),createVec3d(1,0,-0.475),createVec3d(0,1,-0.475),1 +set feat15=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat15.select2 false,0 +part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +part.BlankRefGeom +Set swActiveMat = Part.SketchManager.ActiveSketch +swSketchMat= createMatFromSWMat(swActiveMat.ModelToSketchXForm) +mSkMat=createMat4x4FromValues(1,0,0,0,1,0,0,0,1,0,0,-0.475) +wMat=mulMat4x4Mat4x4(swSketchMat,mSkMat) +codeBag5 part,wMat +set feat15=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat15.select2 false,0 +featMgr.FeatureRevolveCut2 6.2831853071796,1,6.2831853071796,0,0,1,1,false,false,false +part.CreatePlaneFixed2 createVec3d(0,0,-0.475),createVec3d(1,0,-0.475),createVec3d(0,1,-0.475),1 +set feat16=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat16.select2 false,0 +part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +part.BlankRefGeom +Set swActiveMat = Part.SketchManager.ActiveSketch +swSketchMat= createMatFromSWMat(swActiveMat.ModelToSketchXForm) +mSkMat=createMat4x4FromValues(1,0,0,0,1,0,0,0,1,0,0,-0.475) +wMat=mulMat4x4Mat4x4(swSketchMat,mSkMat) +codeBag6 part,wMat +set feat16=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat16.select2 false,0 +featMgr.FeatureRevolveCut2 6.2831853071796,1,6.2831853071796,0,0,1,1,false,false,false +part.CreatePlaneFixed2 createVec3d(0,0,-0.175),createVec3d(1,0,-0.175),createVec3d(0,1,-0.175),1 +set feat22=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat22.select2 false,0 +part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +part.BlankRefGeom +Set swActiveMat = Part.SketchManager.ActiveSketch +swSketchMat= createMatFromSWMat(swActiveMat.ModelToSketchXForm) +mSkMat=createMat4x4FromValues(1,0,0,0,1,0,0,0,1,0,0,-0.175) +wMat=mulMat4x4Mat4x4(swSketchMat,mSkMat) +codeBag7 part,wMat +set feat22=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat22.select2 false,0 +featMgr.FeatureRevolveCut2 6.2831853071796,1,6.2831853071796,0,0,1,1,false,false,false +part.CreatePlaneFixed2 createVec3d(0,0,-0.325),createVec3d(1,0,-0.325),createVec3d(0,1,-0.325),1 +set feat23=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat23.select2 false,0 +part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +part.BlankRefGeom +Set swActiveMat = Part.SketchManager.ActiveSketch +swSketchMat= createMatFromSWMat(swActiveMat.ModelToSketchXForm) +mSkMat=createMat4x4FromValues(1,0,0,0,1,0,0,0,1,0,0,-0.325) +wMat=mulMat4x4Mat4x4(swSketchMat,mSkMat) +codeBag8 part,wMat +set feat23=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat23.select2 false,0 +featMgr.FeatureRevolveCut2 6.2831853071796,1,6.2831853071796,0,0,1,1,false,false,false +part.CreatePlaneFixed2 createVec3d(0,0,-0.175),createVec3d(1,0,-0.175),createVec3d(0,1,-0.175),1 +set feat27=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat27.select2 false,0 +part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +part.BlankRefGeom +Set swActiveMat = Part.SketchManager.ActiveSketch +swSketchMat= createMatFromSWMat(swActiveMat.ModelToSketchXForm) +mSkMat=createMat4x4FromValues(1,0,0,0,1,0,0,0,1,0,0,-0.175) +wMat=mulMat4x4Mat4x4(swSketchMat,mSkMat) +codeBag9 part,wMat +set feat27=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat27.select2 false,0 +featMgr.FeatureRevolveCut2 6.2831853071796,1,6.2831853071796,0,0,1,1,false,false,false +part.CreatePlaneFixed2 createVec3d(0,0,-0.325),createVec3d(1,0,-0.325),createVec3d(0,1,-0.325),1 +set feat28=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat28.select2 false,0 +part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +part.BlankRefGeom +Set swActiveMat = Part.SketchManager.ActiveSketch +swSketchMat= createMatFromSWMat(swActiveMat.ModelToSketchXForm) +mSkMat=createMat4x4FromValues(1,0,0,0,1,0,0,0,1,0,0,-0.325) +wMat=mulMat4x4Mat4x4(swSketchMat,mSkMat) +codeBag10 part,wMat +set feat28=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat28.select2 false,0 +featMgr.FeatureRevolveCut2 6.2831853071796,1,6.2831853071796,0,0,1,1,false,false,false +part.CreatePlaneFixed2 createVec3d(0,0,-0.025),createVec3d(1,0,-0.025),createVec3d(0,1,-0.025),1 +set feat30=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat30.select2 false,0 +part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +part.BlankRefGeom +Set swActiveMat = Part.SketchManager.ActiveSketch +swSketchMat= createMatFromSWMat(swActiveMat.ModelToSketchXForm) +mSkMat=createMat4x4FromValues(1,0,0,0,1,0,0,0,1,0,0,-0.025) +wMat=mulMat4x4Mat4x4(swSketchMat,mSkMat) +codeBag11 part,wMat +set feat30=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat30.select2 false,0 +featMgr.FeatureRevolveCut2 6.2831853071796,1,6.2831853071796,0,0,1,1,false,false,false +part.CreatePlaneFixed2 createVec3d(8.8817841970013e-19,0,-0.175),createVec3d(1,0,-0.175),createVec3d(8.8817841970013e-19,1,-0.175),1 +set feat35=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat35.select2 false,0 +part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +part.BlankRefGeom +Set swActiveMat = Part.SketchManager.ActiveSketch +swSketchMat= createMatFromSWMat(swActiveMat.ModelToSketchXForm) +mSkMat=createMat4x4FromValues(1,0,0,0,1,0,0,0,1,8.8817841970013e-19,0,-0.175) +wMat=mulMat4x4Mat4x4(swSketchMat,mSkMat) +codeBag12 part,wMat +set feat35=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat35.select2 false,0 +featMgr.FeatureRevolveCut2 6.2831853071796,1,6.2831853071796,0,0,1,1,false,false,false +part.CreatePlaneFixed2 createVec3d(8.8817841970013e-19,0,-0.325),createVec3d(1,0,-0.325),createVec3d(8.8817841970013e-19,1,-0.325),1 +set feat36=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat36.select2 false,0 +part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +part.BlankRefGeom +Set swActiveMat = Part.SketchManager.ActiveSketch +swSketchMat= createMatFromSWMat(swActiveMat.ModelToSketchXForm) +mSkMat=createMat4x4FromValues(1,0,0,0,1,0,0,0,1,8.8817841970013e-19,0,-0.325) +wMat=mulMat4x4Mat4x4(swSketchMat,mSkMat) +codeBag13 part,wMat +set feat36=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat36.select2 false,0 +featMgr.FeatureRevolveCut2 6.2831853071796,1,6.2831853071796,0,0,1,1,false,false,false +part.CreatePlaneFixed2 createVec3d(8.8817841970013e-19,0,-0.475),createVec3d(1,0,-0.475),createVec3d(8.8817841970013e-19,1,-0.475),1 +set feat37=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat37.select2 false,0 +part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +part.BlankRefGeom +Set swActiveMat = Part.SketchManager.ActiveSketch +swSketchMat= createMatFromSWMat(swActiveMat.ModelToSketchXForm) +mSkMat=createMat4x4FromValues(1,0,0,0,1,0,0,0,1,8.8817841970013e-19,0,-0.475) +wMat=mulMat4x4Mat4x4(swSketchMat,mSkMat) +codeBag14 part,wMat +set feat37=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat37.select2 false,0 +featMgr.FeatureRevolveCut2 6.2831853071796,1,6.2831853071796,0,0,1,1,false,false,false +end sub + +sub codeBag16(part,wMat) +cLn part,wMat,-0.002275,-0.0013134718624064,0,-0.0026269437248128 +cLn part,wMat,0,-0.0026269437248128,0.002275,-0.0013134718624064 +cLn part,wMat,0.002275,-0.0013134718624064,0.002275,0.0013134718624064 +cLn part,wMat,0.002275,0.0013134718624064,0,0.0026269437248128 +cLn part,wMat,0,0.0026269437248128,-0.002275,0.0013134718624064 +cLn part,wMat,-0.002275,0.0013134718624064,-0.002275,-0.0013134718624064 +Part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +end sub + +sub codeBag17(part,wMat) +cLn part,wMat,-0.002275,-0.0013134718624064,0,-0.0026269437248128 +cLn part,wMat,0,-0.0026269437248128,0.002275,-0.0013134718624064 +cLn part,wMat,0.002275,-0.0013134718624064,0.002275,0.0013134718624064 +cLn part,wMat,0.002275,0.0013134718624064,0,0.0026269437248128 +cLn part,wMat,0,0.0026269437248128,-0.002275,0.0013134718624064 +cLn part,wMat,-0.002275,0.0013134718624064,-0.002275,-0.0013134718624064 +Part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +end sub + +sub codeBag18(part,wMat) +cLn part,wMat,-0.002275,-0.0013134718624064,0,-0.0026269437248128 +cLn part,wMat,0,-0.0026269437248128,0.002275,-0.0013134718624064 +cLn part,wMat,0.002275,-0.0013134718624064,0.002275,0.0013134718624064 +cLn part,wMat,0.002275,0.0013134718624064,0,0.0026269437248128 +cLn part,wMat,0,0.0026269437248128,-0.002275,0.0013134718624064 +cLn part,wMat,-0.002275,0.0013134718624064,-0.002275,-0.0013134718624064 +Part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +end sub + +sub codeBag19(part,wMat) +cLn part,wMat,-0.002275,-0.0013134718624064,0,-0.0026269437248128 +cLn part,wMat,0,-0.0026269437248128,0.002275,-0.0013134718624064 +cLn part,wMat,0.002275,-0.0013134718624064,0.002275,0.0013134718624064 +cLn part,wMat,0.002275,0.0013134718624064,0,0.0026269437248128 +cLn part,wMat,0,0.0026269437248128,-0.002275,0.0013134718624064 +cLn part,wMat,-0.002275,0.0013134718624064,-0.002275,-0.0013134718624064 +Part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +end sub + +sub codeBag15(part,featMgr) +part.CreatePlaneFixed2 createVec3d(0,-0.0267,-0.025),createVec3d(1,-0.0267,-0.025),createVec3d(0,-0.0267,0.975),1 +set feat39=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat39.select2 false,0 +part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +part.BlankRefGeom +Set swActiveMat = Part.SketchManager.ActiveSketch +swSketchMat= createMatFromSWMat(swActiveMat.ModelToSketchXForm) +mSkMat=createMat4x4FromValues(1,0,0,0,0,1,0,-1,0,0,-0.0267,-0.025) +wMat=mulMat4x4Mat4x4(swSketchMat,mSkMat) +codeBag16 part,wMat +set feat39=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat39.select2 false,0 +featMgr.FeatureCut3 1,0,0,0,0,0.003,0.003,1,1,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,1,1,false,false,false,0,0,0 +part.CreatePlaneFixed2 createVec3d(0,-0.0267,-0.175),createVec3d(1,-0.0267,-0.175),createVec3d(0,-0.0267,0.825),1 +set feat44=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat44.select2 false,0 +part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +part.BlankRefGeom +Set swActiveMat = Part.SketchManager.ActiveSketch +swSketchMat= createMatFromSWMat(swActiveMat.ModelToSketchXForm) +mSkMat=createMat4x4FromValues(1,0,0,0,0,1,0,-1,0,0,-0.0267,-0.175) +wMat=mulMat4x4Mat4x4(swSketchMat,mSkMat) +codeBag17 part,wMat +set feat44=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat44.select2 false,0 +featMgr.FeatureCut3 1,0,0,0,0,0.003,0.003,1,1,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,1,1,false,false,false,0,0,0 +part.CreatePlaneFixed2 createVec3d(0,-0.0267,-0.325),createVec3d(1,-0.0267,-0.325),createVec3d(0,-0.0267,0.675),1 +set feat45=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat45.select2 false,0 +part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +part.BlankRefGeom +Set swActiveMat = Part.SketchManager.ActiveSketch +swSketchMat= createMatFromSWMat(swActiveMat.ModelToSketchXForm) +mSkMat=createMat4x4FromValues(1,0,0,0,0,1,0,-1,0,0,-0.0267,-0.325) +wMat=mulMat4x4Mat4x4(swSketchMat,mSkMat) +codeBag18 part,wMat +set feat45=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat45.select2 false,0 +featMgr.FeatureCut3 1,0,0,0,0,0.003,0.003,1,1,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,1,1,false,false,false,0,0,0 +part.CreatePlaneFixed2 createVec3d(0,-0.0267,-0.475),createVec3d(1,-0.0267,-0.475),createVec3d(0,-0.0267,0.525),1 +set feat46=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat46.select2 false,0 +part.SketchManager.InsertSketch True +part.BlankRefGeom +Set swActiveMat = Part.SketchManager.ActiveSketch +swSketchMat= createMatFromSWMat(swActiveMat.ModelToSketchXForm) +mSkMat=createMat4x4FromValues(1,0,0,0,0,1,0,-1,0,0,-0.0267,-0.475) +wMat=mulMat4x4Mat4x4(swSketchMat,mSkMat) +codeBag19 part,wMat +set feat46=part.Extension.GetLastFeatureAdded() +feat46.select2 false,0 +featMgr.FeatureCut3 1,0,0,0,0,0.003,0.003,1,1,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,1,1,false,false,false,0,0,0 +end sub + +sub main +set swApp = Application.SldWorks +code = swApp.RevisionNumber +found = InStr(code, ".") +If (found > 0) Then + code = Left(code, found-1) + docVisible=1 + If (CInt(code) >= 18) Then + docVisible=0 + End If +End If +swApp.SetUserPreferenceToggle 11, FALSE +swApp.SetUserPreferenceToggle 97, FALSE +storePath=BrowseForFolder +If (storePath <> "") Then + If ((Right(storePath, 1) <> "\") And (Right(storePath, 1) <> "/")) Then + storePath = storePath + "\" + End If + createPart0 +End If +end sub diff --git a/sheetpress/components/sprcb-800-rc2_/cad/renderings/200_PressPlate-Global-650-Weldment.JPG b/sheetpress/components/sprcb-800-rc2_/cad/renderings/200_PressPlate-Global-650-Weldment.JPG new file mode 100644 index 000000000..c53f2b316 --- /dev/null +++ b/sheetpress/components/sprcb-800-rc2_/cad/renderings/200_PressPlate-Global-650-Weldment.JPG @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +version https://git-lfs.github.com/spec/v1 +oid sha256:f1762103a212da12c5e283b2f9c6ba4a6eb4792978a6728ac712117999b3029a +size 246098 diff --git a/sheetpress/components/sprcb-800-rc2_/laser/en/Stainless/1mm/SPRCB650-201_PlateCoverTri_x1.dxf b/sheetpress/components/sprcb-800-rc2_/laser/en/Stainless/1mm/SPRCB650-201_PlateCoverTri_x1.dxf new file mode 100644 index 000000000..54b0db379 --- /dev/null +++ b/sheetpress/components/sprcb-800-rc2_/laser/en/Stainless/1mm/SPRCB650-201_PlateCoverTri_x1.dxf @@ -0,0 +1,3308 @@ + 0 +SECTION + 2 +HEADER + 9 +$ACADVER + 1 +AC1015 + 9 +$ACADMAINTVER + 70 + 6 + 9 +$DWGCODEPAGE + 3 +ANSI_1252 + 9 +$INSBASE + 10 +0.0 + 20 +0.0 + 30 +0.0 + 9 +$EXTMIN + 10 +-316.0 + 20 +-316.0 + 30 +0.0 + 9 +$EXTMAX + 10 +316.0 + 20 +316.0 + 30 +0.0 + 9 +$LIMMIN + 10 +0.0 + 20 +0.0 + 9 +$LIMMAX + 10 +420.0 + 20 +297.0 + 9 +$ORTHOMODE + 70 + 0 + 9 +$REGENMODE + 70 + 1 + 9 +$FILLMODE + 70 + 1 + 9 +$QTEXTMODE + 70 + 0 + 9 +$MIRRTEXT + 70 + 1 + 9 +$LTSCALE + 40 +1.0 + 9 +$ATTMODE + 70 + 1 + 9 +$TEXTSIZE + 40 +3.5 + 9 +$TRACEWID + 40 +1.0 + 9 +$TEXTSTYLE + 7 +Standard + 9 +$CLAYER + 8 +0 + 9 +$CELTYPE + 6 +ByLayer + 9 +$CECOLOR + 62 + 256 + 9 +$CELTSCALE + 40 +1.0 + 9 +$DISPSILH + 70 + 0 + 9 +$DIMSCALE + 40 +1.0 + 9 +$DIMASZ + 40 +3.302 + 9 +$DIMEXO + 40 +0.0 + 9 +$DIMDLI + 40 +3.75 + 9 +$DIMRND + 40 +0.0 + 9 +$DIMDLE + 40 +0.0 + 9 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Binary files /dev/null and b/sheetpress/components/sprcb-800-rc2_/specs-ja.xlsx differ diff --git a/sheetpress/components/sprcb-800-rc2_/specs.xlsx b/sheetpress/components/sprcb-800-rc2_/specs.xlsx new file mode 100644 index 000000000..577faff6f Binary files /dev/null and b/sheetpress/components/sprcb-800-rc2_/specs.xlsx differ diff --git a/sheetpress/components/sprcb-800-rc2_/templates/shared/body.md b/sheetpress/components/sprcb-800-rc2_/templates/shared/body.md new file mode 100644 index 000000000..519583c80 --- /dev/null +++ b/sheetpress/components/sprcb-800-rc2_/templates/shared/body.md @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +# Sheetpress Module - 650 + +## Features / Details + +- 15mm 5038 Aluminum plates, precision cut and ground +- 9 Cartridge heaters, 12mm diameter, 80mm long, 300W, embedded in the heat-plate for maximum contact and lifespan +- the module is compatible with ['Cassandra Light'](https://shop.osr-plastic.org/sheetpress/cassanda-light/). Larger designs as a 2x2 arrangments are also available in the [library](https://files.osr-plastic.org/files/osr-machines/sheetpress/) +- the lower support ribs can be removed +- point to point temperature differences are within a 2 degree celsius range +- warmup time - 220V : 20 minutes, 400V: 10 minutes +- low heating oscillation, approximately every 15 seconds diff --git a/sheetpress/components/sprcb-800-rc2_/templates/shared/product_features.md b/sheetpress/components/sprcb-800-rc2_/templates/shared/product_features.md new file mode 100644 index 000000000..e69de29bb