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howtos: 1st pass 2/3

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howtos/add-interchangable-patterns-to-injection-moulds/config.json
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"title": "Have a mould",
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"text": "We are adding a part to an existing mould. In this example we use the hexagon tile mould. It's a simple 3 part flat mould held together with boults. Outer size : 15 x 15 cm. The top and bottom plate are 10mm, the center part with hexagon cutout is 4mm.\n\nWe will describe how to do lasercutting and CNC milling. For acces to a lasercutter/cnc milling device you can check with your local Fablab/makerspace, sometimes even high schools or universities.\n\nFor the lasercut add ons we use 4mm acrylic plates (15 x15cm).\nFor the CNC we used 3mm aluminium plates (15 x 15cm).\n",
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"text": "We used software to create different patterns. Make sure the text is mirrored as we are producing a negative. Depending on the technique used you might need a specific export format.\n\nYou can add information (plastic type, production info) as you wish.\n\nWith lasecutting there is virtually no limit in shapes you can cut. Do mind that smaller detail is harder to inject. In our experience 2-3mm is possible with HDPE injection. \n\nWhen CNC milling the limit is set by the router bit. As it cuts by turning all corners are smoothed out by the diameter of the router bit. Check the limit of the machine you are using. We used a 1mm router bit. \n",
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"text": "When lasercutting a 2D file is sufficient. Some software allows to use PNG, AI or other files. \n\nWhen CNC milling a 3D file is needed. Using software like Fusion 360 you can change your vector file into a 3D shape.\n\nIn our example we've set the cutting depth to 1.5mm.\n\n",
"title": "Create a compatible file "
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"title": "Lasercut",
"text": "Depending on the type of cutter used settings will differ. \n\nBest is to do some test cuts first, changing the speed and intensity of the laser. Acrylic is safe to ut but does smell so dust extraction is advised. \n\nMake sure the pattern is not cut trough the acrylic plate as it will weaken the texture mould and make it less durable (although its possible for some shapes).\n\nMake sure the edges are cut through to prevent having to drill and cut manually later on in the proces. \n\nYou can use multiple depths in one mould by assigning different settings to the cutting lines. "
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"title": "CNC milling",
"text": "Run the file through the software, clamp the material in place and start milling. \n\nAgain it is wise to do some speed tests first. "
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"title": "Inject",
"text": "Add the texture plate to the mould and start injecting. \n\nBest results when cooling down the mould quickly.\n\n"
}
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"description": "Utilize lasercut, CNC milled, or handmade plates to incorporate interchangeable text or patterns into injection mold products, including the addition of plastic types or logos.",
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"title": "Have a mould",
"text": "We are extending an existing mold, specifically a hexagon tile mold. It consists of a three-part flat mold fastened with bolts. Outer dimensions are 15 cm x 15 cm (approx. 6 in x 6 in). The top and bottom plates are 10 mm (approx. 0.4 in) thick, and the center part with the hexagon cutout is 4 mm (approx. 0.16 in) thick.\n\nWe will explain the processes of laser cutting and CNC milling. To access these devices, you might inquire at local facilities such as a Fablab or makerspace, or educational institutions.\n\nFor laser cut add-ons, we use 4 mm (approx. 0.16 in) acrylic plates sized 15 cm x 15 cm (approx. 6 in x 6 in). For CNC machining, we use 3 mm (approx. 0.12 in) aluminum plates also sized 15 cm x 15 cm.",
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"text": "Certainly.\n\n---\n\nWe utilized software to design various patterns. Ensure the text is mirrored when creating a negative. The export format may vary based on your chosen technique.\n\nAdditional information, such as plastic type and production details, can be included as needed.\n\nLaser cutting allows for unlimited shapes, though finer details are more challenging. Our experience shows HDPE injection can handle details as small as 0.08-0.12 inches (2-3 mm).\n\nFor CNC milling, the detail is limited by the router bit diameter, which rounds corners. Verify the specifications of your machine. We used a 0.04-inch (1 mm) CNC router bit.",
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"text": "A 2D file suffices for laser cutting, with PNG and AI formats commonly accepted by various software programs.\n\nFor CNC milling, a 3D file is necessary. Software such as Fusion 360 can convert vector files into 3D shapes.\n\nIn our example, the cutting depth is set to 1.5 millimeters (0.059 inches)."
},
{
"text": "### Laser Cutter Settings for Acrylic Moulds\n\nThe settings for your cutter will vary based on the type of machine. It is advisable to perform test cuts and adjust the laser's speed and intensity accordingly. \n\nThough acrylic can be safely cut, it does emit an odor; therefore, dust extraction is recommended. \n\nEnsure the pattern is not fully cut through the acrylic plate to preserve the mould's durability, except for certain shapes where this might be acceptable.\n\nEnsure edges are fully cut to avoid the necessity of manual drilling and cutting later. You can assign different settings to cutting lines to achieve multiple depths in one mould.",
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"content": "Utilize lasercut, CNC milled, or handmade plates to incorporate interchangeable text or patterns into injection mold products, including the addition of plastic types or logos.\n\n\nUser Location: Leuven, Belgium\n\nWe are extending an existing mold, specifically a hexagon tile mold. It consists of a three-part flat mold fastened with bolts. Outer dimensions are 15 cm x 15 cm (approx. 6 in x 6 in). The top and bottom plates are 10 mm (approx. 0.4 in) thick, and the center part with the hexagon cutout is 4 mm (approx. 0.16 in) thick.\n\nWe will explain the processes of laser cutting and CNC milling. To access these devices, you might inquire at local facilities such as a Fablab or makerspace, or educational institutions.\n\nFor laser cut add-ons, we use 4 mm (approx. 0.16 in) acrylic plates sized 15 cm x 15 cm (approx. 6 in x 6 in). For CNC machining, we use 3 mm (approx. 0.12 in) aluminum plates also sized 15 cm x 15 cm.\n\nCertainly.\n\n---\n\nWe utilized software to design various patterns. Ensure the text is mirrored when creating a negative. The export format may vary based on your chosen technique.\n\nAdditional information, such as plastic type and production details, can be included as needed.\n\nLaser cutting allows for unlimited shapes, though finer details are more challenging. Our experience shows HDPE injection can handle details as small as 0.08-0.12 inches (2-3 mm).\n\nFor CNC milling, the detail is limited by the router bit diameter, which rounds corners. Verify the specifications of your machine. We used a 0.04-inch (1 mm) CNC router bit.\n\nA 2D file suffices for laser cutting, with PNG and AI formats commonly accepted by various software programs.\n\nFor CNC milling, a 3D file is necessary. Software such as Fusion 360 can convert vector files into 3D shapes.\n\nIn our example, the cutting depth is set to 1.5 millimeters (0.059 inches).\n\n### Laser Cutter Settings for Acrylic Moulds\n\nThe settings for your cutter will vary based on the type of machine. It is advisable to perform test cuts and adjust the laser's speed and intensity accordingly. \n\nThough acrylic can be safely cut, it does emit an odor; therefore, dust extraction is recommended. \n\nEnsure the pattern is not fully cut through the acrylic plate to preserve the mould's durability, except for certain shapes where this might be acceptable.\n\nEnsure edges are fully cut to avoid the necessity of manual drilling and cutting later. You can assign different settings to cutting lines to achieve multiple depths in one mould.\n\nProcess the file with the software, secure the material, and begin milling.\n\nConduct speed tests beforehand.\n\nInsert the texture plate into the mold and begin injecting. \n\nFor optimal results, cool the mold rapidly.",
"keywords": "laser cutting, CNC milling, interchangeable plates, injection mold products, hexagon tile mold, acrylic plates, aluminum plates, HDPE injection, 3D file requirements, Fusion 360",
"resources": "### Tools & Equipment\n\n- [Laser Cutter](https://www.fablab-leuven.be/) (e.g., Fab Lab Leuven)\n- [CNC Milling Machine](https://www.kuleuven.be/english) (e.g., KU Leuven workshops)\n- Injection molding machine\n- 4 mm acrylic plates (15 cm x 15 cm)\n- 3 mm aluminum plates (15 cm x 15 cm)\n\n### Software\n\n- [Autodesk Fusion 360](https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/) (3D modeling for CNC)\n- [Adobe Illustrator](https://www.adobe.com/products/illustrator.html) (vector design for laser cutting)\n- Laser cutter control software (e.g., RDWorks or machine-specific)\n- CNC machine control software (e.g., Mach3, GRBL)\n\n### Materials\n\n- HDPE plastic pellets (for injection molding)\n- Acrylic sheets (4 mm thickness)\n- Aluminum sheets (3 mm thickness)\n- Cooling system (water or air-based for rapid mold cooling)\n- Bolts (for mold assembly)\n\n### Design Files\n\n- 2D vector files (PNG/AI formats for laser cutting)[1][5]\n- 3D CAD files (for CNC milling)[5][6]\n- Mirrored text/patterns (negative design)[3]\n- Cutting depth specification (1.5 mm for CNC)[6]\n- Multi-depth laser engraving settings[5]\n\n### Safety & Maintenance\n\n- ~~[Dust extraction system](https://www.fablab-leuven.be/facilities)~~ (for laser cutting acrylic)[4]\n- Test cuts (calibration for laser/CNC settings)[4][6]\n- CNC Router bit verification (≥1 mm diameter for CNC)[6]\n- Material clamping tools (vice or vacuum table)\n- Protective gear (goggles, gloves during injection)[4]\n\nLocal fabrication options in Leuven include Fab Lab Leuven for laser cutting/CNC access and KU Leuven’s engineering workshops[2].",
"references": "## Articles\n\n- [Everything You Need to Know About CNC Machining for Injection Mold Making](https://www.mastercam.com/news/blog/everything-you-need-to-know-about-cnc-machining-for-injection-mold-making/)\n- [Intro to Plastic Injection Mold Making](https://www.paulsonmfg.com/blog/intro-to-plastic-injection-mold-making/)\n- [A Beginner's Guide to Injection Molding](https://www.protolabs.com/resources/guides-and-trend-reports/designing-for-moldability-fundamental-elements/)\n\n## Books\n\n- *Runner and Gating Design Handbook Second Edition: Tools for Successful Injection Molding* (John Beaumont): [Link](https://www.beaumontinc.com/about/books-by-beaumont/)\n- *Successful Injection Molding: Process, Design, and Simulation* (John Beaumont): [Link](https://www.beaumontinc.com/about/books-by-beaumont/)\n\n## Papers\n\n- [Effect of Femtosecond-Laser-Structured Injection Molding Tool on Mechanical Properties](https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC8272158/)\n- ~~[Enhancement of Low-Power CO₂ Laser Cutting for Injection-Molded Polycarbonate](https://pure.northampton.ac.uk/files/37975388/Moradi_et_OLT_2017_Enhancement_of_low_power_CO2_laser_cutting_process_for_injection_molded_polycarbonate.pdf)~~\n\n## YouTube\n\n- [Laser Model Making Basics Tutorial Guide](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=17Pg3QJk00o)\n\n## Open-Source Designs\n\n- [Step-by-Step Laser-Cut Molds for Thermoforming (Instructables)](https://www.instructables.com/Laser-Cut-Forms-for-Thermoforming-Vacuum-Forming/)\n- [Fab Academy Week 13 Assignment: Mold Fabrication](https://fabacademy.org/2024/labs/chaihuo/students/matthew-yu/docs/week13_assignment)\n- [Soft Robotics Toolkit: Laser-Cutting Mold Parts](https://softroboticstoolkit.com/laser-cut-molds/mold-fabrication/laser-cutting)\n\n## Manufacturer Guides\n\n- [Plastic Injection Mold Making (CS Tool Engineering)](https://www.cste.com/services/plastic-injection-mold-making)\n- [Injection Molding vs CNC Machining (3ERP)](https://www.3erp.com/blog/injection-molding-vs-cnc-machining/)"
}

631
howtos/bicycle-shredder-v2/config.json
View File

@ -1,18 +1,255 @@
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"text": "### Assembly Information for Makers\n\nThe download package contains numerous files and drawings. While it may seem overwhelming initially, the following steps provide further insights into the shredder's design. A brief introduction video and an assembly video are forthcoming to enhance understanding of the construction. \n\n[Download Link](https://www.dropbox.com/sh/xlts122wcb905q6/AABRgMZTki8gH1NqQ5SvOS-Ia?dl=0)",
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"text": "Most low-speed shredders observed online or within the community tend to be large, heavy, or inefficient. Opting for high-speed shredding utilizes inertia effectively. We chose to shred materials using human-powered high-speed methods.\n\nVarious designs exist for constructing the axle. We opted to invest in standard parts to minimize further machining costs. We use span sockets for this reason. However, we recognize these components may not be available in all regions. Explore local resources and capabilities to discover alternative methods for axle manufacturing."
},
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"text": "### Shredding Plastic with the Bicycle Shredder\n\nFor effective shredding with the bicycle shredder, the cutting mill's knives must rotate at high speed. To safely introduce plastic into the cutting mill without opening it, we initially experimented with various pipe lock designs. However, these proved unreliable, leading us to create a more traditional hopper instead. Although the new hopper is larger and heavier than previous versions, it provides increased stability and safety during operation.",
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"text": "The sieve and collection box are constructed from bent and welded metal sheets. Use a sieve with holes approximately 5-8 mm (3/16-5/16 inches) in diameter. Smaller holes may reduce the plastic to dust. Ensure the metal sheet is of sufficient thickness for stability and the locking system; 1.5 mm (1/16 inch) is recommended.",
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"src": "/resources/howtos/bicycle-shredder-v2/friction_wheel.jpg",
"alt": "friction wheel.jpg"
}
],
"_animationKey": "uniqueq0cp1n",
"title": "Friction Wheel",
"text": "The friction wheel transfers speed from the rear wheel to the cutting mill. We make the wheel from plywood because it can be milled using our CNC machine. However, better materials, such as certain plastics, are available for the friction wheel."
},
{
"text": "### Steel Frame Construction Guide\n\nConstructing the steel frame necessitates expertise in welding and metalwork. Beginners should consult an experienced metalworker. Use plywood sheet gauges to maintain correct distances between steel tubes and employ large 45° angles to streamline the welding process.\n\nEnsure all holes and slots are drilled and milled into the steel tubes prior to welding, as alignment becomes challenging afterwards.\n\nFor welding M16 nuts, align both nuts to properly secure the rear wheel. Use a 14mm (0.55 inches) diameter steel bar for this purpose.",
"images": [
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"title": "Steel Frame"
},
{
"text": "Adjusting the height is a simple task. A small steel strip is welded to a clamping ring for the turning knob, and the rest consists of standard components.",
"title": "Height Adjustment",
"_animationKey": "unique3kueh8",
"images": [
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"contentType": "image/jpeg",
"src": "/resources/howtos/bicycle-shredder-v2/height_adjustment.jpg",
"alt": "height adjustment.jpg"
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},
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"alt": "wheel mount.jpg"
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{
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"contentType": "image/jpeg",
"updated": "2021-02-01T21:52:31.975Z",
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"alt": "ND800_0005337_Loehrer.jpg"
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"fullPath": "uploads/howtos/WZZzEV2jFa0TNxZ1ODIx/ND800_0005379_Loehrer.jpg",
"contentType": "image/jpeg",
"type": "image/jpeg",
"size": 87849,
"updated": "2021-02-01T21:52:32.549Z",
"timeCreated": "2021-02-01T21:52:32.549Z",
"downloadUrl": "https://firebasestorage.googleapis.com/v0/b/onearmyworld.appspot.com/o/uploads%2Fhowtos%2FWZZzEV2jFa0TNxZ1ODIx%2FND800_0005379_Loehrer.jpg?alt=media&token=4ec750b6-3e3a-465c-8808-c779c2eaf197",
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],
"text": "The wheel-mount involves considerable lathe work but is straightforward. For the turning knob, we cut a piece from a thick metal sheet and welded it to a nut. Alternatively, you can create the knob using steel strips and an angle grinder.",
"title": "Wheel Mount"
},
{
"text": "### Workshop Safety Guidelines\n\nWorkshops involve diverse participants, and safety is a top priority. We implement a color-coded system for handling equipment:\n\n- **Green:** Accessible to everyone.\n- **Orange:** Restricted to team members.\n- **Red:** Extremely hazardous; avoid contact.\n\nIn addition to our color system, we use standard warning signs and machine-specific instructions. We also install safety features like belt and shaft protections.\n\nYour suggestions for improving machine safety are welcome.",
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"src": "/resources/howtos/bicycle-shredder-v2/shaft_protection_belt_protection.jpg",
"alt": "shaft protection + belt protection.jpg"
}
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"title": "Safety Add-ons",
"_animationKey": "uniquezexf35"
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"moderation": "accepted",
"previousSlugs": [
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"description": "This tutorial provides an overview of constructing a bicycle shredder. Eighteen months ago, we released a video on building the original bicycle shredder. We have since improved the design and documentation and now present the enhanced second version.",
"mentions": [],
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@ -36,297 +273,89 @@
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"moderation": "accepted",
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"slug": "bicycle-shredder-v2",
"title": "Bicycle Shredder V2",
"_contentModifiedTimestamp": "2023-06-14T11:02:16.412Z",
"category": {
"_id": "bD7i9YjwOa4yTlLdYUnw",
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"steps": [
{
"title": "Get ready!",
"text": "In the download package you find a lot of files and drawings. At first sight it might be overwhelming, but don’t be afraid, we’re taking care of you ;-).\nIn addition to the download-kit, the following steps will give you further information, why the shredder is built the way it is. Furthermore a short introduction video and an assembling video is in the making to get a better understanding about the construction. Stay tuned!\n\nDownload-Link: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/xlts122wcb905q6/AABRgMZTki8gH1NqQ5SvOS-Ia?dl=0",
"images": [
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"updated": "2021-02-01T21:52:21.066Z",
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{
"text": "Nearly all low speed shredders we saw in the community or around the internet were huge, heavy or sometimes not even working proper and efficient. Using high speed instead, we have the power of inertia :-). So we decided to shred plastic with human power at high speed.\nThere are different ways to build the axle. We decided to spend a bit more money on standard parts to reduce costs as machining and post machining on the lathe. That’s why we use those span sockets. However, we are aware that these components are not available in every country in the world. Take a look on the possibilities and competencies around you, it is also possible to manufacture the axle in a different way.\n\n \n",
"images": [
{
"type": "image/jpeg",
"downloadUrl": "https://firebasestorage.googleapis.com/v0/b/onearmyworld.appspot.com/o/uploads%2Fhowtos%2FWZZzEV2jFa0TNxZ1ODIx%2Fcutting%20mill.jpg?alt=media&token=2d94da5d-0658-468e-9d8a-1113e3b0ba44",
"contentType": "image/jpeg",
"fullPath": "uploads/howtos/WZZzEV2jFa0TNxZ1ODIx/cutting mill.jpg",
"size": 65042,
"updated": "2021-02-01T21:52:22.093Z",
"timeCreated": "2021-02-01T21:52:22.093Z",
"name": "cutting mill.jpg"
},
{
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"type": "image/jpeg",
"downloadUrl": "https://firebasestorage.googleapis.com/v0/b/onearmyworld.appspot.com/o/uploads%2Fhowtos%2FWZZzEV2jFa0TNxZ1ODIx%2FND800_0005357_Loehrer.jpg?alt=media&token=8dbf3402-7e11-49b9-97f1-c70eb2f6f921",
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"updated": "2021-02-01T21:52:23.055Z",
"timeCreated": "2021-02-01T21:52:23.055Z"
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],
"title": "Cutting Mill",
"_animationKey": "unique1",
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},
{
"text": "Shredding plastic with the bicycle shredder - the knives of the cutting mill should run at high speed. To ensure a safe and stable shredding process, we needed a way to get the plastic into the cutting mill without opening it. In the past we worked with several versions of a pipe lock. Finally, we dismissed the pipe lock because of malfunctions. That's why we developed a more classic and simple version of a save hopper. The downside of the new version is the huge size and weight compared to the old one.",
"title": "Material Lock",
"_animationKey": "unique2",
"images": [
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"updated": "2021-02-01T21:52:24.497Z",
"type": "image/jpeg",
"size": 106599,
"downloadUrl": "https://firebasestorage.googleapis.com/v0/b/onearmyworld.appspot.com/o/uploads%2Fhowtos%2FWZZzEV2jFa0TNxZ1ODIx%2Fheight%20adjustment.jpg?alt=media&token=1cae7912-52b9-45f8-9110-be66576fa1bb",
"contentType": "image/jpeg",
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"timeCreated": "2021-02-01T21:52:24.497Z"
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"updated": "2021-02-01T21:52:23.894Z",
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"type": "image/jpeg",
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"name": "new material lock.png"
}
],
"caption": ""
},
{
"title": "Sieve and Collection Box",
"text": "The sieve and collection box is nothing really special, just bended and welded metal sheets. We recommend using a sieve with holes about 5 - 8 mm in diameter. Very small holes will turn the plastic nearly into dust. Don't go too thin with the thickness of the metal sheet. It is important for stability and the locking system! 1,5 mm are a good size.",
"_animationKey": "unique3",
"images": [
{
"name": "collection box sieve.png",
"timeCreated": "2021-02-01T21:52:25.414Z",
"fullPath": "uploads/howtos/WZZzEV2jFa0TNxZ1ODIx/collection box sieve.png",
"size": 64873,
"updated": "2021-02-01T21:52:25.414Z",
"contentType": "image/jpeg",
"downloadUrl": "https://firebasestorage.googleapis.com/v0/b/onearmyworld.appspot.com/o/uploads%2Fhowtos%2FWZZzEV2jFa0TNxZ1ODIx%2Fcollection%20box%20sieve.png?alt=media&token=2da81dc0-71b4-4e2c-b585-3087ea2ef479",
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"caption": ""
},
{
"_animationKey": "uniqueq0cp1n",
"images": [
{
"type": "image/jpeg",
"downloadUrl": "https://firebasestorage.googleapis.com/v0/b/onearmyworld.appspot.com/o/uploads%2Fhowtos%2FWZZzEV2jFa0TNxZ1ODIx%2Ffriction%20wheel.jpg?alt=media&token=01b63bb6-f93f-4d9f-9e70-b0001dcbf384",
"contentType": "image/jpeg",
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"updated": "2021-02-01T21:52:27.928Z",
"name": "friction wheel.jpg",
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],
"text": "The friction wheel transfers the speed from the rear wheel to the cutting mill. We use plywood for the wheel because we can mill it with our own cnc machine. Nethertheless there are definitely better materials for the friction wheel, for example something out of plastic.",
"title": "Friction Wheel"
},
{
"images": [
{
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"type": "image/jpeg",
"contentType": "image/jpeg",
"fullPath": "uploads/howtos/WZZzEV2jFa0TNxZ1ODIx/ND800_0005340_Loehrer.jpg",
"name": "ND800_0005340_Loehrer.jpg",
"updated": "2021-02-01T21:52:28.903Z"
},
{
"timeCreated": "2021-02-01T21:52:29.415Z",
"downloadUrl": "https://firebasestorage.googleapis.com/v0/b/onearmyworld.appspot.com/o/uploads%2Fhowtos%2FWZZzEV2jFa0TNxZ1ODIx%2FND800_0005365_Loehrer.jpg?alt=media&token=1e995da1-7d0c-47db-8e12-4d694291e064",
"size": 129545,
"type": "image/jpeg",
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"updated": "2021-02-01T21:52:29.415Z",
"contentType": "image/jpeg",
"name": "ND800_0005365_Loehrer.jpg"
}
],
"text": "Building the steel frame requires proper knowledge and experience in welding and working with metal. If you’re new in the game, look for someone with experience in metalwork.To simplify the welding process we prepared gauges -> plywood sheets to keep the right distances between the steel tubes and some big 45° angles.\n\nBefore welding everything make sure everything is drilled and milled into the steel tubes. Afterwards it's a bit tricky to get them to the right places!\n\nAnother advice: welding the m16 nuts; make sure the two nuts are in one alignment. That's important to clamp the rear-wheel right in place. We take a long steel bar (14mm in diameter).\n",
"title": "Steel Frame",
"_animationKey": "unique4yw9np"
},
{
"_animationKey": "unique3kueh8",
"images": [
{
"downloadUrl": "https://firebasestorage.googleapis.com/v0/b/onearmyworld.appspot.com/o/uploads%2Fhowtos%2FWZZzEV2jFa0TNxZ1ODIx%2Fheight%20adjustment.jpg?alt=media&token=1cae7912-52b9-45f8-9110-be66576fa1bb",
"updated": "2021-02-01T21:52:31.254Z",
"type": "image/jpeg",
"timeCreated": "2021-02-01T21:52:31.254Z",
"fullPath": "uploads/howtos/WZZzEV2jFa0TNxZ1ODIx/height adjustment.jpg",
"contentType": "image/jpeg",
"name": "height adjustment.jpg",
"size": 106599
}
],
"text": "The height adjustment is one of the fastest things you can realise :-).\nFor the turning knob we welded a small steel strip on a clamping ring. The rest of it are just ready-to-use standard parts.\n",
"title": "Height Adjustment"
},
{
"text": "The wheel-mount is a lot of lathe work but not too complex!\nFor the turning knob we lasered a part out of a thick metal sheet and welded it on a nut. Instead of a lasered part you can realise the turning knob as well by some steel strips and an angle grinder. \n",
"images": [
{
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"fullPath": "uploads/howtos/WZZzEV2jFa0TNxZ1ODIx/wheel mount.jpg",
"size": 129538,
"name": "wheel mount.jpg",
"downloadUrl": "https://firebasestorage.googleapis.com/v0/b/onearmyworld.appspot.com/o/uploads%2Fhowtos%2FWZZzEV2jFa0TNxZ1ODIx%2Fwheel%20mount.jpg?alt=media&token=246ef4b9-c2e5-43a5-b3c0-bae5bcc8ee60",
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"updated": "2021-02-01T21:52:32.549Z",
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],
"_animationKey": "unique6d7yon",
"title": "Wheel Mount"
},
{
"_animationKey": "uniquezexf35",
"images": [
{
"fullPath": "uploads/howtos/WZZzEV2jFa0TNxZ1ODIx/shaft protection + belt protection.jpg",
"name": "shaft protection + belt protection.jpg",
"size": 227371,
"contentType": "image/jpeg",
"updated": "2021-02-01T21:52:34.162Z",
"downloadUrl": "https://firebasestorage.googleapis.com/v0/b/onearmyworld.appspot.com/o/uploads%2Fhowtos%2FWZZzEV2jFa0TNxZ1ODIx%2Fshaft%20protection%20%2B%20belt%20protection.jpg?alt=media&token=63055617-0437-49d8-94b5-e6442788e60c",
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],
"text": "\nWorkshops with different kinds of people are our daily business. That is why we care a lot about safety!\nTo ensure an easy and understandable handling, a good way is to use our color system.\n- Green: Everybody can touch/use it.\n- Orange: The team can touch/use it.\n- Red: Keep your body away from it, it's f***ing dangerous!\nIn addition to the color system we use common warning signs and tips and tricks written on the machine.\n\nFurthermore we build safety add-ons, such as the belt protection and the shaft protection.\n\nIf you have ideas how to make the machine safer and better, feel free to share it with us and the community!\n",
"title": "Safety Add-ons"
}
],
"mentions": [],
"files": [],
"_deleted": false,
"_modified": "2023-12-06T09:47:24.769Z",
"comments": [
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"content": "This tutorial provides an overview of constructing a bicycle shredder. Eighteen months ago, we released a video on building the original bicycle shredder. We have since improved the design and documentation and now present the enhanced second version.\n\n\nUser Location: Dresden, Germany\n\n### Assembly Information for Makers\n\nThe download package contains numerous files and drawings. While it may seem overwhelming initially, the following steps provide further insights into the shredder's design. A brief introduction video and an assembly video are forthcoming to enhance understanding of the construction. \n\n[Download Link](https://www.dropbox.com/sh/xlts122wcb905q6/AABRgMZTki8gH1NqQ5SvOS-Ia?dl=0)\n\nMost low-speed shredders observed online or within the community tend to be large, heavy, or inefficient. Opting for high-speed shredding utilizes inertia effectively. We chose to shred materials using human-powered high-speed methods.\n\nVarious designs exist for constructing the axle. We opted to invest in standard parts to minimize further machining costs. We use span sockets for this reason. However, we recognize these components may not be available in all regions. Explore local resources and capabilities to discover alternative methods for axle manufacturing.\n\n### Shredding Plastic with the Bicycle Shredder\n\nFor effective shredding with the bicycle shredder, the cutting mill's knives must rotate at high speed. To safely introduce plastic into the cutting mill without opening it, we initially experimented with various pipe lock designs. However, these proved unreliable, leading us to create a more traditional hopper instead. Although the new hopper is larger and heavier than previous versions, it provides increased stability and safety during operation.\n\nThe sieve and collection box are constructed from bent and welded metal sheets. Use a sieve with holes approximately 5-8 mm (3/16-5/16 inches) in diameter. Smaller holes may reduce the plastic to dust. Ensure the metal sheet is of sufficient thickness for stability and the locking system; 1.5 mm (1/16 inch) is recommended.\n\nThe friction wheel transfers speed from the rear wheel to the cutting mill. We make the wheel from plywood because it can be milled using our CNC machine. However, better materials, such as certain plastics, are available for the friction wheel.\n\n### Steel Frame Construction Guide\n\nConstructing the steel frame necessitates expertise in welding and metalwork. Beginners should consult an experienced metalworker. Use plywood sheet gauges to maintain correct distances between steel tubes and employ large 45° angles to streamline the welding process.\n\nEnsure all holes and slots are drilled and milled into the steel tubes prior to welding, as alignment becomes challenging afterwards.\n\nFor welding M16 nuts, align both nuts to properly secure the rear wheel. Use a 14mm (0.55 inches) diameter steel bar for this purpose.\n\nAdjusting the height is a simple task. A small steel strip is welded to a clamping ring for the turning knob, and the rest consists of standard components.\n\nThe wheel-mount involves considerable lathe work but is straightforward. For the turning knob, we cut a piece from a thick metal sheet and welded it to a nut. Alternatively, you can create the knob using steel strips and an angle grinder.\n\n### Workshop Safety Guidelines\n\nWorkshops involve diverse participants, and safety is a top priority. We implement a color-coded system for handling equipment:\n\n- **Green:** Accessible to everyone.\n- **Orange:** Restricted to team members.\n- **Red:** Extremely hazardous; avoid contact.\n\nIn addition to our color system, we use standard warning signs and machine-specific instructions. We also install safety features like belt and shaft protections.\n\nYour suggestions for improving machine safety are welcome.",
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"resources": "To build the enhanced bicycle shredder, key components and resources are organized into three main categories, each containing critical elements extracted from the tutorial documentation[1].\n\n### Tools & Workshop Equipment\n\n- Welding equipment (MIG/TIG recommended)\n- Lathe (for wheel-mount fabrication)\n- Angle grinder (for steel cutting/shaping)\n- CNC machine (plywood friction wheel milling)\n- Drilling/milling tools (pre-welding preparation)\n\n### Hardware Components\n\n- Steel tubes (14mm diameter bar for frame)\n- Span sockets (axle components)\n- M16 nuts (rear wheel mounting)\n- 1.5mm metal sheets (sieve/collection box)\n- Plywood sheets (friction wheel & alignment jigs)\n\n### Software & Documentation\n\n- [Design package](https://www.dropbox.com/sh/xlts122wcb905q6/AABRgMZTki8gH1NqQ5SvOS-Ia?dl=0) (CAD files & technical drawings)\n- Assembly video tutorials (forthcoming)\n- Sieve specifications (5-8mm holes)\n- Metalworking guidelines (bending/welding)\n- Safety system documentation (color codes/operational protocols)[1]\n\nConsult the design package and adjust components based on regional availability of materials like span sockets[1]. Prioritize safety protocols during assembly and operation.",
"references": "## References\n\n### Articles\n\n- *No links provided*\n\n### Books\n\n- *No links provided*\n\n### Papers\n\n- *No links provided*\n\n### YouTube\n\n- *No links provided*\n\n### Opensource Designs\n\n- [Bicycle Shredder Design Files](https://www.dropbox.com/sh/xlts122wcb905q6/AABRgMZTki8gH1NqQ5SvOS-Ia?dl=0)\n\n### Other\n\n- *No links provided*"
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"title": "Collect around 120 000 bottle caps",
"text": "Collecting a substantial number of caps can be challenging. Here is my approach:\n\nI collaborate with an organization that gathers caps from schools, stores, and public places and sorts them by color. I pay for this service to save time.\n\nSeek out similar organizations in your area. Often, these groups collect bottle caps and sell them, using the proceeds to support charitable activities such as providing guide dogs for the blind or wheelchairs for the disabled.\n\nFor this project, we required 240 kilograms (approximately 530 pounds) of bottle caps.",
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"text": "### Shredding\n\nI use a V4 pro shredder to process the caps four times until the shred meets my size requirements.\n\n### Washing and Drying\n\nWashing is more effective post-grinding. I place shredded plastic in durable cotton canvas bags, securing them with reusable zip-ties. These are washed in domestic machines equipped with filtration systems to prevent microplastic release and water recovery systems to recycle water efficiently.\n\nSubsequently, I dry the shredded material in tumble dryers to ensure it is completely dry.",
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"updated": "2023-10-11T12:33:25.112Z",
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"title": "Shred & wash your bottle caps",
"text": "SHREDDING\n\nI use a V4 pro shredder to shred the caps 4 times, until I get the right size of shred for my needs.\n\nWASHING (and DRYING)\n\nI find that washing is more effective when done after grinding, rather than before. So I put my shredded plastic in heavy-duty cotton canvas bags, which I seal carefully with reusable zip-ties. I then wash them in domestic washing machines, with a filtration and water recovery system. Filtration prevents the loss of microplastics into the environment, while water recovery enables the washing machines to operate in a closed cycle, reusing the same water many times over, for a multitude of washes, before being renewed.\n\nI then dry the bags of shredded material in tumble dryers (powered by solar panels) to obtain perfectly dry, moisture-free shredded material.",
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{
"title": "Create your sheets using the sheetpress",
"text": "Using the method explained in a previous \"How-To\" ( https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/continuously-produce-sheets- ), you should be able to make between 6 and 8 sheets per day.\n\nFor this project, we needed 24 panels, including 4 yellow ones for the nesting box.\n\nSo you could be finished after 3-4 intense days, good job!\n\n(Don't mind the pink ones, they were for another project in our daughter's room!)",
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"text": "By following the previously explained method, you can produce approximately 6 to 8 sheets per day (2.5 to 3.5 square feet).\n\nThis project requires 24 panels, including 4 yellow ones for the nesting box.\n\nCompletion is achievable after 3 to 4 days of dedicated work.",
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"text": "### Construction Guide for Wooden Structure\n\nBuild the wooden structure according to the provided plans.\n\nAdapt the design to suit your location and materials.\n\nWe used Trespa panels, available from excess stock, for the floor and ceiling. Alternatively, consider using plastic panels.\n\nThe roof is insulated and covered with corrugated iron sheets.\n\nPlans include a separate storage area accessed from outside the main enclosure.",
"title": "Build the wooden structure and the roof",
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"text": "Build the wooden structure following the plans provided in this “How-To”.\n\nOf course, you will have to adapt to your own location and your available materials.\n\nIn our case, we had Trespa panels in stock (from my partner's ordering error for a previous professional project) so we used them for the floor and ceiling.\nIf you don't want to buy Trespa panels, you can adapt the structure and also use recycled plastic panels instead.\n\nThe roof of the henhouse was insulated and then covered with corrugated iron sheets.\n\nAs you will see in the plans, we wanted to provide a small storage space next to the chickens' living room in order to be able to store equipment there. It is accessed from the outside and not the inside of the henhouse.",
"title": "Cut and add your recycled plastic sheets",
"text": "### Wall Cladding for Your Chicken Coop\n\nExercise caution when cutting panels; ensure the workspace permits the collection of any resulting plastic dust. Pre-drill holes to attach the panels to the wooden structure, and gather any plastic waste during this process.",
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"title": "Build the wooden structure and the roof"
},
{
"text": "It's time to dress the interior and exterior walls of your chicken coop!\n\nBe very careful when cutting your panels, do it in a place that allows you to collect/vacuum up all the plastic dust created by the cuts, so that this plastic does not end up in the environment.\nTo attach the panels, you will need to pre-drill (recover any plastic waste that falls!) before screwing to the wooden structure.",
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"text": "We made the \"mistake\" of not providing space between the panels, which does not allow them to expand properly when it is very hot, and some panels can end up a little bulging.\n\nTo avoid this, it can be good to allow 0.5cm-1cm of space between the panels.\n\nDepending on the season in which you build your henhouse, and the temperature differences that you may have in your country (between summer and winter), you could notice big changes in the expansion of your panels, this is normal, but you must anticipate them during construction!",
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"title": "Allow space between your panels !"
"title": "Allow space between your panels !",
"text": "We did not allow space between the panels, leading to bulging in high heat. To prevent this, leave 0.2 in-0.4 in (0.5 cm-1 cm) between panels. Plan for seasonal temperature variations when constructing your henhouse, as they can affect panel expansion."
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"text": "The doors and windows consist of a steel structure that we painted ourselves. Initially, we used putty to attach the panels to the steel frame, but it proved ineffective. Consequently, we switched to a mechanical fastening solution. We also installed metal mesh on the windows to prevent martens and rats from entering.",
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"text": "Then build your nests, always using the plans and adapting them to your needs.\nBe creative and don't be afraid to go for a different color!",
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"title": "Now, the nests !",
"text": "Build your nests by following the plans and adjusting them as needed. Feel free to choose any color you prefer."
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"content": "Recycled plastic sheets are ideal for chicken coops due to their ease of cleaning and resistance to parasites like poultry red mites. Here is how ours was built: Download the plans and watch the stages in the accompanying video.\n\n\nUser Location: Houyet, Belgium\n\nIn this video, I demonstrate the production stages of a chicken coop made from plastic sheets. Watching the video will provide a comprehensive overview, making the process easier to follow.\n\nThe files contain henhouse plans in .PDF and .DXF formats for viewing and modification with open-source software like LibreCAD. The wooden structure is designed for panels measuring 39*39*0.4 inches (100*100*1 cm).\n\nCollecting a substantial number of caps can be challenging. Here is my approach:\n\nI collaborate with an organization that gathers caps from schools, stores, and public places and sorts them by color. I pay for this service to save time.\n\nSeek out similar organizations in your area. Often, these groups collect bottle caps and sell them, using the proceeds to support charitable activities such as providing guide dogs for the blind or wheelchairs for the disabled.\n\nFor this project, we required 240 kilograms (approximately 530 pounds) of bottle caps.\n\n### Shredding\n\nI use a V4 pro shredder to process the caps four times until the shred meets my size requirements.\n\n### Washing and Drying\n\nWashing is more effective post-grinding. I place shredded plastic in durable cotton canvas bags, securing them with reusable zip-ties. These are washed in domestic machines equipped with filtration systems to prevent microplastic release and water recovery systems to recycle water efficiently.\n\nSubsequently, I dry the shredded material in tumble dryers to ensure it is completely dry.\n\nBy following the previously explained method, you can produce approximately 6 to 8 sheets per day (2.5 to 3.5 square feet).\n\nThis project requires 24 panels, including 4 yellow ones for the nesting box.\n\nCompletion is achievable after 3 to 4 days of dedicated work.\n\n### Construction Guide for Wooden Structure\n\nBuild the wooden structure according to the provided plans.\n\nAdapt the design to suit your location and materials.\n\nWe used Trespa panels, available from excess stock, for the floor and ceiling. Alternatively, consider using plastic panels.\n\nThe roof is insulated and covered with corrugated iron sheets.\n\nPlans include a separate storage area accessed from outside the main enclosure.\n\n### Wall Cladding for Your Chicken Coop\n\nExercise caution when cutting panels; ensure the workspace permits the collection of any resulting plastic dust. Pre-drill holes to attach the panels to the wooden structure, and gather any plastic waste during this process.\n\nWe did not allow space between the panels, leading to bulging in high heat. To prevent this, leave 0.2 in-0.4 in (0.5 cm-1 cm) between panels. Plan for seasonal temperature variations when constructing your henhouse, as they can affect panel expansion.\n\nThe doors and windows consist of a steel structure that we painted ourselves. Initially, we used putty to attach the panels to the steel frame, but it proved ineffective. Consequently, we switched to a mechanical fastening solution. We also installed metal mesh on the windows to prevent martens and rats from entering.\n\nBuild your nests by following the plans and adjusting them as needed. Feel free to choose any color you prefer.\n\nIf not yet completed, install the interior perch and the automatic door for the chickens (we used an Omlet brand door acquired second-hand). Adjust according to available materials.\n\nHost a remarkable gathering with friends. If you construct a similar chicken coop, please share your photos.",
"keywords": "recycled plastic chicken coop, easy cleaning poultry coop, parasite resistant coop, chicken coop building plans, plastic sheet henhouse, bottle cap plastic recycling, DIY poultry housing, eco-friendly chicken coop, Trespa panels chicken coop, insulated chicken coop roof",
"resources": "### Software\n\n- [LibreCAD](https://librecad.org/) for viewing/modifying .DXF plans\n\n### Shredding Equipment\n\n- V4 Pro shredder (multiple passes for size reduction)\n\n### Washing & Drying Tools\n\n- Industrial washing machines with microplastic filtration\n- Water recovery systems for closed-loop cycles\n- Tumble dryers\n\n### Construction Hardware\n\n- Trespa panels ([official site](https://www.trespa.com)) or plastic sheets for surfaces\n- Corrugated iron sheets for roofing\n- Steel frames for doors/windows\n\n### Safety & Assembly\n\n- Dust collection system for plastic cutting\n- Power drill/driver for panel attachment\n- Mechanical fasteners (replaces ineffective putty)\n- Metal mesh for pest-proof window covers\n- [Omlet automatic chicken door](https://www.omlet.com) (used model)\n\nKey quantities: 240kg bottle caps, 24 panels (4 colored), 3-4 day build time.",
"references": "## Articles\n\n- [Recycled Plastic Chicken Coop - The Hampton](https://eartheasy.com/recycled-plastic-chicken-coop-the-hampton/)\n- [Nestera Chicken Coops | Plastic Chicken Houses For Sale](https://www.pipinchicksilkies.com/chicken-coops-runs/nestera-recycled-plastic-poultry-houses/)\n- [Best Plastic Chicken Coops (2025)](https://www.chickenfans.com/best-plastic-chicken-coops/)\n- [Building a Coop with Recycled Materials](https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/building-a-coop-with-recycled-materials-an-environmentally-friendly-approach-to-poultry-keeping.78370/)\n- [Recycled Plastic Chicken Houses](https://arkus.co.uk/recycled-plastic-chicken-houses/)\n- [Nestera Plastic Chicken Houses](https://thechickenhousecompany.co.uk/collections/nestera-plastic-chicken-houses)\n- [Plastic Chicken Coops for Sale](https://www.donedeal.ie/poultry-for-sale/plastic-chicken-coops/27205457)\n- [7 Chicken Coop Ideas: Protective & Cheap Projects](https://diyprojects.ideas2live4.com/2016/07/21/alternative-chicken-coop-ideas/)\n\n## YouTube\n\n- [How to Build the Small Ground Coop](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9SkgNLIVGsA)\n- [Mid-Century Modern Chicken Coop Build](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E_goHTrihfo)\n- [Arkus Recycled Plastic Chicken Coop Review](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z4aB6TIj4v0)\n\n## Opensource Designs\n\n- Build Chicken Coop from Bottle Caps"
}

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"description": "# JARVIS Airpath Cooling System Assembly Guide\n\n## Contents\n1. Airpath Components (PDF)\n2. Airpath 3D Printed Parts (ZIP)\n\n## Instructions\nAssemble your JARVIS Airpath cooling system in six simple steps. \n\nFor assistance, access our video tutorial:\n[Watch Video](https://youtu.be/6Ae6oDKhqiE)\n\nFor further information, visit our website: \n[Visit Qitech](https://www.qitech.de/en/industries)",
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"text": "\nFirst, prepare the 4 gondolas by pressing the included magnets into the upper holes. Later, the clips, which also carry magnets, will be attached to them. Make sure that all the magnets in the gondolas are oriented in the same polarity so that the magnet clips will be attracted to them later from the opposite polarity.\n\nThe clips have 2 holes on the inside for the magnets. Insert the magnets in the correct orientation so that the magnet clips are attracted to the gondolas. ",
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"text": "\nNext, we will attach the 4 gondolas to the aluminum profiles. For this, you will need 16 T-nuts, 16 screws of size M5 x 8, both aluminum profiles, the 4 gondolas, and an Allen key of size 3.\n\n\nMake sure that the front side is the one where the labeling and display are visible and accessible. On the aluminum profiles, there is a hole for the front side.\n\nSlide the T-nuts into the aluminum profile. The rounded side should face downwards, while the flat side should face upwards. Attach the gondolas to the aluminum profiles using the screws. Pay attention to the order as shown in the illustration. The outer gondolas have a logo that faces outward, while the inner ones have labeling. Ensure that the gondolas do not extend beyond the aluminum profiles. The aluminum profiles should protrude about 2 mm outward."
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"text": "\nNow you can flip the JARVIS Airpath over, as you need to screw in the fans here. Insert the fans into the system, making sure that the tips of the cones are facing inward and the cables for the display are pulled out through the hole in the aluminum profile. Ensure that the fans rotate without touching the cables. Screw the grilles and fans onto the gondola.\n\n"
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"text": "\nNow you will attach the control box. For this, you will need 4 T-nuts and 4 screws in size M5 x 8.\n\nInsert the T-nuts into the aluminum profile and screw the control box onto the front side. Make sure to route the power cables through the hole into the box.\n\n\n",
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"text": "\nYou now need the control cover, the display box, the DC jack, 4 set screws, an Allen wrench size 2.5, and a small screwdriver size 0.35 / 2.5.\n\nOpen the display box and remove the green start button from the palette.\n\nNow, attach the display to the control cover. The black border on the display should face downward. Insert the fan control through the smaller hole. Insert the green start button through the larger hole and place it back into the palette. On the inside, first secure the buttons with the thin metal ring, and then tighten the nut.\n\nAttach the DC jack through the side hole of the control box. Thread the cables through the hole into the box.\n\nBefore closing the box, screw the cables into the designated terminals. The black cables go into the \"-\" symbol, and the red cables go into the \"+\" marking.\n\nSecure the control box to the display cover using the set screws. ",
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"text": "Attach the four gondolas to the aluminum profiles using 16 M5 x 8 screws and 16 T-nuts. You will need a 3 mm (0.12 in) Allen key.\n\nEnsure the front side is visible and accessible; the aluminum profiles have a designated hole for this. Slide the T-nuts into the profiles, with the rounded side facing down. Secure the gondolas to the profiles with the screws, following the specified order. The outer gondolas should have their logos facing outwards, and the inner ones should show labeling. Make sure gondolas do not extend past the aluminum profiles—these should extend about 2 mm (0.08 in) outward.",
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"text": "Insert the fans into the JARVIS Airpath, ensuring the cone tips face inward and the display cables are pulled through the aluminum profile (aluminium profile), ensuring cables do not impede fan rotation. Secure the grilles and fans onto the gondola."
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"text": "To securely screw in the feet, you will need 4 T-nuts, 4 hard plastic washers, 4 rubber feet, 4 screws (M5 x 14 or 0.2 x 0.55 inches), and a 4 mm (0.16 inch) Allen key.\n\nPlace the JARVIS Airpath on the rubber feet. Position the hard plastic washers between the rubber feet and the aluminum profile. Screw two support feet into the aluminum profile.",
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"verifiedBadge": true,
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"heroImageUrl": "https://firebasestorage.googleapis.com/v0/b/onearmyworld.appspot.com/o/uploads%2Fusers%2FPIp5TJF8g3aYbMBtf6i4ewwVbf12%2FMilan%20%2B%20Simon%20in%20Haupthalle%20unten-01-1887b811b1c.jpg?alt=media&token=f90d2eec-28b8-4ea7-9d53-d09d0868c95c",
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},
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{
"name": "Hessen",
"description": "federal state in the center of Germany",
"description": "state in the center of Germany",
"isoName": "Hessen",
"order": 4,
"adminLevel": 4,
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"images": []
"content": "# JARVIS Airpath Cooling System Assembly Guide\n\n## Contents\n1. Airpath Components (PDF)\n2. Airpath 3D Printed Parts (ZIP)\n\n## Instructions\nAssemble your JARVIS Airpath cooling system in six simple steps. \n\nFor assistance, access our video tutorial:\n[Watch Video](https://youtu.be/6Ae6oDKhqiE)\n\nFor further information, visit our website: \n[Visit Qitech](https://www.qitech.de/en/industries)\n\n\nUser Location: Darmstadt, Germany\n\nFirst, prepare the four gondolas by inserting the included magnets into the upper holes. Ensure all magnets in the gondolas have the same polarity for proper interaction with the magnetic clips.\n\nThe clips contain two interior holes for magnets. Insert the magnets with the correct orientation to ensure they attract the gondolas.\n\nAttach the four gondolas to the aluminum profiles using 16 M5 x 8 screws and 16 T-nuts. You will need a 3 mm (0.12 in) Allen key.\n\nEnsure the front side is visible and accessible; the aluminum profiles have a designated hole for this. Slide the T-nuts into the profiles, with the rounded side facing down. Secure the gondolas to the profiles with the screws, following the specified order. The outer gondolas should have their logos facing outwards, and the inner ones should show labeling. Make sure gondolas do not extend past the aluminum profiles—these should extend about 2 mm (0.08 in) outward.\n\nInsert the fans into the JARVIS Airpath, ensuring the cone tips face inward and the display cables are pulled through the aluminum profile (aluminium profile), ensuring cables do not impede fan rotation. Secure the grilles and fans onto the gondola.\n\nTo securely screw in the feet, you will need 4 T-nuts, 4 hard plastic washers, 4 rubber feet, 4 screws (M5 x 14 or 0.2 x 0.55 inches), and a 4 mm (0.16 inch) Allen key.\n\nPlace the JARVIS Airpath on the rubber feet. Position the hard plastic washers between the rubber feet and the aluminum profile. Screw two support feet into the aluminum profile.\n\nAttach the control box using four T-nuts and four M5 x 8 (5/16 in x 5/16 in) screws. Insert the T-nuts into the aluminum profile and secure the control box to the front. Ensure power cables are routed through the hole into the box.\n\nYou need the control cover, display box, DC jack, four set screws, an Allen wrench (2.5 mm/0.1 in), and a small screwdriver (0.35 mm/2.5 mm or 0.014 in/0.098 in).\n\nOpen the display box and remove the green start button.\n\nAttach the display to the control cover, ensuring the black border faces downward. Insert the fan control through the smaller hole and the green start button through the larger hole, securing it with a thin metal ring and nut.\n\nInstall the DC jack through the side hole of the control box and thread the cables into the box.\n\nScrew the black cables into the \"-\" terminal and the red cables into the \"+\" terminal before closing the box.\n\nUse set screws to secure the control box to the display cover.",
"keywords": "JARVIS Airpath, cooling system assembly, assembly guide, Qitech, magnetic clips, gondolas, aluminum profiles, fan installation, control box, DC jack",
"resources": "## Tools\n\n- 3 mm (0.12 in) Allen key [Source](https://youtu.be/6Ae6oDKhqiE)\n- 4 mm (0.16 in) Allen key [Source](https://youtu.be/6Ae6oDKhqiE)\n- 2.5 mm (0.1 in) Allen wrench [Source](https://youtu.be/6Ae6oDKhqiE)\n- 0.35 mm/2.5 mm (0.014 in/0.098 in) screwdriver [Source](https://youtu.be/6Ae6oDKhqiE)\n\n## Hardware\n\n- Magnets (for gondolas/clips) [Source](https://youtu.be/6Ae6oDKhqiE)\n- M5 x 8 screws (16x) + T-nuts (16x) [Source](https://youtu.be/6Ae6oDKhqiE)\n- M5 x 14 screws (4x) + rubber feet (4x) [Source](https://youtu.be/6Ae6oDKhqiE)\n- Control box + DC jack [Source](https://youtu.be/6Ae6oDKhqiE)\n- Aluminum profiles + fans/grilles [Source](https://youtu.be/6Ae6oDKhqiE)\n\n## Software\n\n- Airpath Components PDF [Source](https://www.qitech.de/en/industries)\n- Airpath 3D Printed Parts ZIP [Source](https://www.qitech.de/en/industries)\n- Assembly video tutorial [Source](https://youtu.be/6Ae6oDKhqiE)\n- Qitech support portal [Source](https://www.qitech.de/en/industries)",
"references": "## YouTube\n\n- [JARVIS Airpath Assembly Tutorial](https://youtu.be/6Ae6oDKhqiE)\n\n## Articles\n\n- [Qitech Industries](https://www.qitech.de/en/industries)"
}

626
howtos/create-a-bench-with-2x4-beams/config.json
View File

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"text": "This process requires the following tools and equipment:\n\n- V4 Extruder\n- 2x4 mold (1.5 in x 3.5 in x 6 ft)\n- Approximately 85 lbs (38.6 kg) of shredded PP plastic\n- Cooling tank\n- Miter saw\n- Drill\n- Drill bits\n- Deck screws\n\nOnce you have gathered all your materials and equipment, you are ready to begin.",
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"text": "With the plastic prepared, it is ready for extrusion into beams. Set the extruder temperature to 240°C (464°F) for PP plastic. Attach the mold. Begin extruding at 45-50 RPM, ensuring the hopper remains filled. Once the 6-foot (1.83-meter) mold is filled, disconnect it and place it in a cooling tank with cold water for approximately 20 minutes. After the plastic solidifies, remove it from the mold. Repeat until you have eight 6-foot beams.",
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"text": "The beams should first be trimmed to remove any excess material at the ends. Next, cut the beams to the specified dimensions using a chop saw:\n\n- (4) beams, each 5 feet 4 inches (163 cm) for the Benchtop\n- (1) beam, 60 inches (152 cm) for Ground Support\n- (4) beams, each 16 inches (41 cm) for the Legs\n- (6) beams, each 15 inches (38 cm) for the Braces\n- (2) beams, each 11 1/4 inches (29 cm)",
"title": "Cut",
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"text": "### Assembly Instructions\n\nLay out the four longest beams side by side to form the bench top, maintaining a spacing of approximately 0.25 inches (6.35 mm) between each. Attach the braces at the ends of the bench top.",
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"title": "Staging "
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"text": "At this stage, attach the beams using 2.5-inch (6.35 cm) deck screws. Pre-drill pilot holes to prevent cracking.",
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{
"text": "Begin assembling the bench on a tarp to collect drill shavings for potential reuse. Position the 16-inch (40.64 cm) beams at each corner as legs. Drill pilot holes and secure with screws.",
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"title": "Attaching legs"
},
{
"text": "With the bench top and legs prepared, the next step is to reinforce the structure. Position the 15-inch (38 cm) beams between the legs as braces. Next, use the 11 1/4 inch (28.5 cm) beams to install a perpendicular support, connecting the bench top to the 60-inch (152 cm) beam that spans the base.",
"title": "Attaching supports and braces",
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"title": "Enjoy!",
"text": "Choose a suitable location to install your bench, such as a backyard or park."
}
],
"_created": "2022-01-27T17:59:13.813Z",
"moderation": "accepted",
"files": [],
"creatorCountry": "us",
"comments": [
{
"_creatorId": "josephklatt",
"creatorName": "josephklatt",
"creatorCountry": "netherlands",
"_id": "G4tzBI5Jin65xkUBWmTj",
"_created": "2022-01-28T18:55:47.314Z",
"_creatorId": "josephklatt",
"text": "Awesome How-to guys! Super useful*",
"_created": "2022-01-28T18:55:47.314Z"
"creatorName": "josephklatt"
},
{
"creatorName": "mattia",
"_id": "lhDx1Ri9tGCVy560HegE",
"creatorCountry": "it",
"text": "Nice consistent beams! And sturdy design. Make sure to protect it from UV rays if you leave it outside, or you'll end up with a bunch of microplastics.",
"_creatorId": "mattia",
"_created": "2022-01-31T05:30:50.950Z"
"_created": "2022-01-31T05:30:50.950Z",
"_id": "lhDx1Ri9tGCVy560HegE",
"creatorName": "mattia",
"text": "Nice consistent beams! And sturdy design. Make sure to protect it from UV rays if you leave it outside, or you'll end up with a bunch of microplastics.",
"creatorCountry": "it"
},
{
"_creatorId": "valtiine",
"creatorName": "valtiine",
"_created": "2022-05-01T22:13:18.558Z",
"_id": "TyP9P6mvM2daMRvC60DZ",
"text": "WOW! Nice!!\nI would like to make plastic tiles for outside, but I am afraid about micropolluants. Can we use it outside using UV protection? :-)",
"creatorCountry": ""
"_id": "TyP9P6mvM2daMRvC60DZ",
"_created": "2022-05-01T22:13:18.558Z",
"creatorCountry": "",
"creatorName": "valtiine",
"_creatorId": "valtiine"
},
{
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"creatorName": "tgrjax",
"creatorCountry": "",
"_created": "2022-08-05T01:44:37.410Z",
"text": "How does the chop saw perform with PP?"
"text": "How does the chop saw perform with PP?",
"_creatorId": "tgrjax",
"creatorName": "tgrjax"
}
],
"votedUsefulBy": [
"haleystephens",
"zodachem",
"adigitalgirl",
"mikefig",
@ -59,278 +311,59 @@
"upcycled-inc",
"yo2217"
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"slug": "create-a-bench-with-2x4-beams",
"steps": [
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"title": "Prepare your material and equipment",
"text": "This process will require a few tools and equipment. These include:\n-V4 Extruder\n-2x4 mold( measurements= 1.5\"x3.5\"x6')\n-Roughly 85 lbs of shredded PP plastic\n-Cooling tank\n-Miter Saw\n-Drill\n-Drill Bits\n-Deck Screws\n\nOnce you have all your material and equipment you're ready to get started!\n\n",
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"text": "In this step we want to make sure all of our plastic is as clean as possible, sorted by type ( and color if preferred), and shredded to desired flake size. For our bench we used all PP (#5) ",
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"title": "Prep",
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{
"title": "Extrude",
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"text": "Now that all of our plastic is prepped it is ready to be extruded into beams. We set our extruder temps to 240 degrees Celsius for our PP plastic with good results. At this point the mold should now be attached. Once temps have been set, you can begin extruding at 45-50 rpms. Keep a close eye on the hopper ensuring it stays filled. Once all 6 feet of the mold has been filled it can be disconnected from the extruder and dropped in a cooling tank with cold water for about 20 min. After the plastic has solidified it can be removed from the mold. Repeat this step until you have 8 six foot beams.",
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"title": "Cut",
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"text": "Now the beams need to be trimmed and cut to size. First, the beams will need to have the ends trimmed of any protruding plastic. \n\nOnce trimmed, the beams will need to be cut using a chop saw to the measurements listed:\n(4) 5’4” beams (Benchtop)\n(1) 60” beam (Ground Support)\n(4) 16” beams (Legs)\n(6) 15” beams (Braces)\n(2) 11 1/4” beams\n",
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{
"text": "Now that we have all our pieces made and cut to size we can begin assembly\n\nNow, Lay out your 4 longest beams next to each other to stage your bench top. Each beam should have roughly a quarter inch of spacing between them. Now add your braces along the ends of the benchtop",
"title": "Staging ",
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{
"text": "At this point in the process we can begin attaching the beams using 2.5 inch deck screws. These holes should be pre-drilled with pilot holes to prevent cracking",
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"title": "Assemble"
},
{
"title": "Attaching legs",
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"text": "This is when the bench will start to take shape. While assembling we recommend doing so on a tarp to collect any shavings created by drilling to be re-used.\n\nTake your 16 inch beams and stage them as the legs on all four corners. Drill pilot holes and attach with screws.\n\n"
},
{
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"text": "Now that we have our bench top and legs, all that’s left is to brace and support the structure. Take your 15 inch beams and place them between the legs to create braces between them. Then take your 11 1/4 inch beams to create a support perpendicular to the bench, attaching the bench top to the 60 inch beam which will run across the bottom of the bench on the ground",
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"title": "Attaching supports and braces"
},
{
"text": "Now you can find a great location to install your new bench whether it be in your backyard or local park!",
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"title": "Enjoy!",
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"id": "R11Diwxd587Py61025xa",
"description": "This how-to will showcase how to create a bench using 2x4 extruded beams. Once complete, your bench will consist of over 80 pounds of plastic waste!",
"tags": [
"extrusion",
"PP"
],
"difficulty_level": "Medium",
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"content": "This tutorial explains how to build a bench using 2x4 extruded beams. The finished bench will weigh over 80 pounds (approximately 36 kilograms).\n\n\nUser Location: Baltimore, United States of America (the)\n\nThis process requires the following tools and equipment:\n\n- V4 Extruder\n- 2x4 mold (1.5 in x 3.5 in x 6 ft)\n- Approximately 85 lbs (38.6 kg) of shredded PP plastic\n- Cooling tank\n- Miter saw\n- Drill\n- Drill bits\n- Deck screws\n\nOnce you have gathered all your materials and equipment, you are ready to begin.\n\nEnsure all plastic is thoroughly cleaned, sorted by type (and color if necessary), and shredded to the desired flake size. For our bench, we used PP (#5) plastic.\n\nWith the plastic prepared, it is ready for extrusion into beams. Set the extruder temperature to 240°C (464°F) for PP plastic. Attach the mold. Begin extruding at 45-50 RPM, ensuring the hopper remains filled. Once the 6-foot (1.83-meter) mold is filled, disconnect it and place it in a cooling tank with cold water for approximately 20 minutes. After the plastic solidifies, remove it from the mold. Repeat until you have eight 6-foot beams.\n\nThe beams should first be trimmed to remove any excess material at the ends. Next, cut the beams to the specified dimensions using a chop saw:\n\n- (4) beams, each 5 feet 4 inches (163 cm) for the Benchtop\n- (1) beam, 60 inches (152 cm) for Ground Support\n- (4) beams, each 16 inches (41 cm) for the Legs\n- (6) beams, each 15 inches (38 cm) for the Braces\n- (2) beams, each 11 1/4 inches (29 cm)\n\n### Assembly Instructions\n\nLay out the four longest beams side by side to form the bench top, maintaining a spacing of approximately 0.25 inches (6.35 mm) between each. Attach the braces at the ends of the bench top.\n\nAt this stage, attach the beams using 2.5-inch (6.35 cm) deck screws. Pre-drill pilot holes to prevent cracking.\n\nBegin assembling the bench on a tarp to collect drill shavings for potential reuse. Position the 16-inch (40.64 cm) beams at each corner as legs. Drill pilot holes and secure with screws.\n\nWith the bench top and legs prepared, the next step is to reinforce the structure. Position the 15-inch (38 cm) beams between the legs as braces. Next, use the 11 1/4 inch (28.5 cm) beams to install a perpendicular support, connecting the bench top to the 60-inch (152 cm) beam that spans the base.\n\nChoose a suitable location to install your bench, such as a backyard or park.",
"keywords": "bench building, extruded beams, DIY furniture, PP plastic, woodworking tools, assembly instructions, bench construction, V4 extruder, Baltimore DIY, homemade bench",
"resources": "To build a bench using 2x4 extruded beams, you’ll need the following items grouped by category:\n\n### Tools & Equipment\n\n- V4 Extruder\n- 2x4 mold (1.5 in x 3.5 in x 6 ft)\n- Cooling tank\n- Miter saw\n- Drill & drill bits\n\n### Materials\n\n- 85 lbs shredded PP plastic (#5)\n- 2.5-inch deck screws\n\n### Hardware Components\n\n- (4) 5'4\" Benchtop beams\n- (1) 60\" Ground Support beam\n- (4) 16\" Leg beams\n- (6) 15\" Brace beams\n- (2) 11.25\" Support beams\n\nThese items cover extrusion, cutting, and assembly steps outlined in the tutorial. The process involves shredding plastic, molding beams, and constructing the bench with precise cuts and screws.",
"references": "### Articles\n\nhttps://pri-plastics.com/understanding-plastic-extrusion-a-comprehensive-guide/\\\nhttps://www.onearmy.earth/news/extrusion-machine\n\n### Books\n\nhttps://www.barnesandnoble.com/w/extrusion-harold-f-giles-jr/1111448551\n\n### YouTube\n\nhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tGc-Z7TtiVg\\\nhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1A05nDBKzVc\\\nhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Hmp4K3NwB0\n\n### Opensource Designs\n\nhttps://community.preciousplastic.com/library/make-a-bench-with-beams"
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"text": "### Materials\n- **Heat Press Machine:** A commercially available heat press machine for iron-on printing with a 350x350 mm (13.78x13.78 in) heat surface.\n- **Aluminum Frame:** Ordered from an online supplier, the frame is 230x300x4 mm (9.06x11.81x0.16 in) with a 5 mm (0.2 in) corner radius. It is sandwiched between two 2 mm (0.08 in) aluminum sheets and pressed.\n\n### Reference\n- Steps 1 and 2 are adapted from \"Zero Plastic Australia's Sheet Machine\" guide.",
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"text": "After drilling all holes, remove any remaining plastic debris. Smooth the surface with an orbit sander. Sand up to about #2000 grit to achieve a bright color. \n\nThe plastic pegboard is now complete.\n\nFor questions, please contact pebbles.recycleplastic@gmail.com.",
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"description": "This method employs a heat press machine and an aluminum mold to create a plastic board, which is subsequently shaped into a perforated board.",
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"title": "Prepare heat press machine and aluminum frame",
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"text": "Heat press machine...commercially available heat press machine for iron-on printing. The one I am using has a 350x350(mm) heat surface.\nAluminum frame...I found a supplier online that sells and processes aluminum sheet metal and placed an order. 230x300x4(mm) rectangular frame with 5mm radius on the corners. This aluminum frame is sandwiched between two aluminum sheets (2 mm) and pressed.\n\nSteps 1 and 2 are based on \"Zero Plastic Australia's Sheet Machine\" by Zero Plastic Australia. Please refer to this one too!\n\nhttps://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/zero-plastic-australias-sheet-machine\n"
},
{
"title": "Create a plastic sheet",
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"text": "Aluminum sheet - Teflon sheet - Milled plastic & aluminum frame - Teflon sheet - Aluminum sheet\nThe materials are set in the heat press machine in a sandwich condition like the above. At this time, it is recommended to spray the aluminum frame thoroughly with silicone spray. For this aluminum frame, roughly 350-400g of milled plastic is required.\n\nAfter setting the materials and closing the heat press, heat the machine at 180°C for 30-40 minutes. During this time, keep increasing the pressure of the heat press to the maximum. Apply heat and pressure evenly, rotating and flipping the whole aluminum sandwich sheet during the process.\n\nThen turn off the press and allow the plastic to cool and harden in place while keeping the pressure applied. After at least four hours, and ideally overnight, the plastic should be nice and flat.\n\nOnce the plastic has cooled and hardened, peel it off from the frame, cut off the unnecessary parts with scissors, and your plastic sheet is ready!\n",
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"title": "Drill Holes",
"text": "Prepare a peg board for guides. I used \"Design Board 30cm x 20cm (natural x white): 110 yen\" from Daiso. The size of the holes is 5 mm and the hole spacing is 25 mm.\n\nStack the peg board on the plastic board and fix it with clamps to prevent it from moving. Aim at the center of the perforated board and drill guide holes 2 mm in diameter.\n\nAfter the guide holes are drilled, remove the perforated board and fix only the plastic board to the workbench. Replace the drill with one of 5 mm diameter and drill the actual holes as per the guide holes.\n"
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"text": "After all holes are drilled, remove the remaining plastic debris around the holes. If there are too many burrs on the surface, use an orbit sander to finish the surface. If you apply up to about #2000, the color of the plastic will be bright.\n\nAnd voila! The plastic pegboard is now complete!\n\nIf you have any question regarding this How-to, please contact pebbles.recycleplastic@​gmail.com ;-)",
"title": "Finish with Sanding",
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"_edited": "2023-06-08T06:55:26.768Z",
"_creatorId": "andy510",
"_id": "gr4ajwpKkPgG8PvDAZc6",
"_created": "2023-06-08T06:54:59.673Z",
"text": "Thanks",
"creatorName": "andy510",
"creatorCountry": "vn"
}
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"content": "This method employs a heat press machine and an aluminum mold to create a plastic board, which is subsequently shaped into a perforated board.\n\n\nUser Location: Tokyo, Japan\n\n### Materials\n- **Heat Press Machine:** A commercially available heat press machine for iron-on printing with a 350x350 mm (13.78x13.78 in) heat surface.\n- **Aluminum Frame:** Ordered from an online supplier, the frame is 230x300x4 mm (9.06x11.81x0.16 in) with a 5 mm (0.2 in) corner radius. It is sandwiched between two 2 mm (0.08 in) aluminum sheets and pressed.\n\n### Reference\n- Steps 1 and 2 are adapted from \"Zero Plastic Australia's Sheet Machine\" guide.\n\nAluminum sheet - Teflon sheet - Milled plastic & aluminum frame - Teflon sheet - Aluminum sheet\n\nArrange the materials in a heat press in the specified order. Apply silicone spray thoroughly to the aluminum frame. Approximately 12-14 oz (350-400 g) of milled plastic is needed for this frame.\n\nClose the heat press and set it to 356°F (180°C) for 30-40 minutes. Gradually increase the pressure to the maximum, ensuring even application by rotating and flipping the sandwich structure.\n\nAfter heating, turn off the press, keeping the pressure applied as the plastic cools and solidifies. Allow it to set for at least four hours, ideally overnight, to ensure flatness.\n\nOnce cool and solidified, remove the plastic sheet from the frame. Trim any excess with scissors, and the sheet is ready for use.\n\nPrepare a pegboard for guides. I used a pegboard measuring 11.8 x 7.9 inches (30 x 20 cm) with 5 mm holes spaced 25 mm apart.\n\nStack the pegboard on the plastic board and secure them with clamps. Drill 0.08-inch (2 mm) guide holes centered on the perforations.\n\nOnce the guide holes are complete, remove the pegboard. Secure the plastic board to the workbench and use a 0.2-inch (5 mm) drill bit to create the final holes based on the guides.\n\nAfter drilling all holes, remove any remaining plastic debris. Smooth the surface with an orbit sander. Sand up to about #2000 grit to achieve a bright color. \n\nThe plastic pegboard is now complete.\n\nFor questions, please contact pebbles.recycleplastic@gmail.com.",
"keywords": "Heat press machine, aluminum mold, plastic board, perforated board, aluminum frame, milled plastic, silicone spray, pegboard preparation, drill guide holes, orbit sander",
"resources": "### Tools\n\n- Electric drill with 2mm and 5mm bits\n- Orbit sander\n- Clamps\n- Scissors\n- Sandpaper (up to #2000 grit)\n\n### Hardware\n\n- Heat press machine (350x350 mm plate) ~~[Reference](https://www.zeroplastic.com.au/)~~\n- Aluminum frame (230x300x4 mm with 5mm radius)\n- Aluminum sheets (2mm thickness)\n- Teflon sheets\n- Pegboard (30x20 cm, 5mm holes spaced 25mm apart)\n\n### Materials\n\n- Milled plastic (350–400 g per sheet)\n- Silicone spray\n- Plastic debris removal tools\n- Safety gear (implied for heat/drilling)\n\n*Links reflect adaptions from \"Zero Plastic Australia's Sheet Machine\" guide mentioned in the tutorial. Specific suppliers aren’t listed in the source text.*",
"references": "### Articles\n\n- [Bending and forming PLEXIGLAS®](https://www.plexiglas.de/en/service/processing/bending-and-forming-plexiglas)\n- [Compression molding](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Compression_molding)\n- [Guide to Manufacturing Processes for Plastics](https://formlabs.com/blog/guide-to-manufacturing-processes-for-plastics/)\n\n### Books\n\n- [The Homebrew Industrial Revolution](https://apw.org.nz/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/HomeBrewRevolution_Carson.pdf)\n\n### Papers\n\n- [JRC-2020-TECHNOLOGY.pdf](https://elib.psu.by/bitstream/123456789/25333/1/JRC-2020-TECHNOLOGY.pdf)\n- [Thermoforming Manual](https://www.spartech.com/media/documents/SPA221062-Thermoforming-Manual.pdf)\n\n### YouTube\n\n- [Melting plastic waste into sheets](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0VibXPtIcxc)\n\n### Opensource Designs\n\n- Zero Plastic Australia's Sheet Machine\n- [Precious Plastic Injection Machine](https://www.onearmy.earth/news/injection-machine)\n- [$50 Plastic Shredder](https://www.instructables.com/50-Plastic-Shredder-Grinder-Recycler/)\n- Create a Peg Board"
}

137
howtos/creating-beams-out-of-hdpe-plastic-bags/README.md
View File

@ -161,136 +161,27 @@ Gradually add extra strips of material while compressing it with the push stick
Once the beam is properly compressed, use pliers to remove the bottom slider acting as a stop. If the beam is stuck, allow it to cool in the mold and later heat it slightly to facilitate removal.
## Resources
# HDPE Plastic Bag Beam Tutorial
This guide outlines the steps to convert HDPE plastic bags into beams using basic tools, without the need for specialized machinery like shredders or injection machines. If a long clamp is available, additional instructions at the end can help improve beam quality.
User Location: Indialantic-Melbourne Beach, United States of America (the)
In this guide, we will outline the process to prepare plastic bags.
Materials Required:
- Textile iron or panini press
- Wax paper
- HDPE plastic bags
- A gas mask for protection
Steps:
1. Fold a single bag in half lengthwise.
2. Roll the bag tightly so it remains thin, as it will shrink considerably.
3. Place wax paper beneath and above the folded bag.
4. Pass the iron over it 2-3 times with minimal pressure for less than 10 seconds per side. If using a panini press, simply press it.
5. Flip the bag and repeat.
6. Allow the semi-firm bag to cool under a heavy object to prevent curling, easing insertion into the mold later.
Note: A standard-size bag will occupy approximately 0.4 inches (1 cm) in a 1-inch by 1-inch (2.54 cm by 2.54 cm) beam. Ensure sufficient bags are processed before proceeding.
Your beam/mold requires a quick-release mechanism for easy removal before the plastic cools and obstructs access to the bottom. This guide outlines the necessary steps.
### Materials Needed
### Tools
- Metal grinder
- Hot rolled steel beam
- Small metal scrap for use as a slider and mold bottom
- Eye protection
### Steps
**Step 1:** Measure and mark 1/16 inch (or 1.6 mm) from one side of the beam for cutting. If the beam is aluminum or very thin, consider increasing this distance, but note that deeper cuts make plastic removal more difficult.
**Step 2:** Repeat the marking process on the opposite side of the beam.
**Step 3:** Utilize the metal grinder to make slots on both sides, ensuring they align for the metal scrap to slide through. Misaligned cuts may prevent proper fitting.
**Step 4:** Select and cut a scrap metal piece to fit tightly with minimal gaps.
### Beam Formation Method
#### Materials Required:
- Outdoor fire pit or an equivalent heat source capable of maintaining temperatures above 482°F (250°C)
- Carbon activator gas mask
- Mold: Hot-rolled steel tube is recommended, available at hardware stores for approximately $25
- Heat-resistant gloves
- Pushing stick: Use solid wood or metal matching the beam's inner dimensions
- Fire-making materials, such as kindling
- Textile iron or panini press
- 5-foot metal clamp
- Pliers
- Metal clamp, approximately 5 feet
- Push stick (solid wood/metal)
This method is more efficient than manual techniques and produces a denser beam. A 5-foot clamp is beneficial for this process.
### Hardware
### Steps
- Hot-rolled steel tube (mold)
- Metal scrap (slider/mold bottom)
- Outdoor fire pit (482°F+ capable)
- Fire-making materials (kindling)
- Wax paper
**Step 1:** Insert a metal piece at the bottom of the mold. Ensure it is secure yet removable with pliers, serving as a quick-release mechanism for later removal.
### Protective Gear
**Step 2:** Load a few plastic bags into the mold and compress them with a push stick before igniting a fire. It is advisable to use a clamp technique for adding more bags due to the difficulty of doing so manually later.
**Step 3:** Build a consistently burning fire. Keep wood nearby to maintain the fire for at least 30 minutes if needed.
Step 4: Position the beam over the fire and allow it to heat.
Step 5: Once sufficiently heated, insert and secure the push stick in the clamp.
Step 6: Tighten the clamp to compress the beam, repeating as necessary to solidify it.
Note: Depending on your clamp type, you may need to adjust it by sliding the stationary side closer for additional compression length.
Note: If desired, add more plastic bags after the initial compression to achieve the preferred length, though it is advisable not to exceed 10 inches (25 cm) for ease of removal.
### Beam Removal Process
1. **Remove Stopper:** Use pliers to extract the stopper from the bottom.
2. **Attempt Beam Removal:** Press the push stick in, applying steady pressure. If successful, the process is complete. If not, proceed to the next step.
3. **Reinsert Beam:** Place the beam back into the rig, ensuring the stopper is not in place.
4. **Tighten Clamp:** While the material remains pliable, tighten the clamp. Once movement is detected, remove the mold from the beam and complete with the push stick.
## Beam Creation Tutorial
### Introduction
Begin by constructing your mold and preparing the plastic bags. Once ready, proceed with melting the bags into beams. Be aware that manual methods may result in more air pockets compared to the use of metal clamps. If possible, utilize a metal clamp longer than 5 feet (1.5 meters) for improved results.
### Materials Required
- Outdoor fire pit or an alternative heat source capable of maintaining temperatures above 482°F (250°C).
- Carbon activator gas mask.
- Mold: A hot rolled steel tube is recommended; available at hardware stores for approximately $25.
- Heat-resistant gloves.
- Pushing stick: Made of solid wood or metal, matching the inner dimensions of your beam.
- Materials for fire-starting, such as lighter wood.
- Pliers.
Step 1: Place the metal piece at the bottom of the mold, securing it for later removal with pliers as a quick-release mechanism.
Step 2: Insert several plastic bags into the mold and compress them with a push stick before igniting a fire. Ensure the mold is not entirely filled, using no more than eight bags at a time. Compress manually to achieve a solid final product.
Step 3: Maintain a consistent fire, keeping wood nearby to sustain it for at least 30 minutes.
### Step 4
Hold the mold over the fire, rotating it. Prepare the push stick to compress in a few moments. If the fire is well-built, the material will become malleable in about 30 seconds.
### Step 5
Use the push stick to compress the material. Apply maximum pressure; the more force exerted, the denser the product will be.
### Step 6
Gradually add extra strips of material while compressing it with the push stick between additions until you reach the desired length. Add approximately 1 inch (2.54 cm) extra to account for thermal expansion and removal.
### Step 7
Once the beam is properly compressed, use pliers to remove the bottom slider acting as a stop. If the beam is stuck, allow it to cool in the mold and later heat it slightly to facilitate removal.
- Carbon activator gas mask
- Heat-resistant gloves
- Eye protection
## References
## References

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howtos/creating-beams-out-of-hdpe-plastic-bags/config.json
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howtos/creating-beams-out-of-hdpe-plastic-bags/resources.md
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# HDPE Plastic Bag Beam Tutorial
This guide outlines the steps to convert HDPE plastic bags into beams using basic tools, without the need for specialized machinery like shredders or injection machines. If a long clamp is available, additional instructions at the end can help improve beam quality.
User Location: Indialantic-Melbourne Beach, United States of America (the)
In this guide, we will outline the process to prepare plastic bags.
Materials Required:
- Textile iron or panini press
- Wax paper
- HDPE plastic bags
- A gas mask for protection
Steps:
1. Fold a single bag in half lengthwise.
2. Roll the bag tightly so it remains thin, as it will shrink considerably.
3. Place wax paper beneath and above the folded bag.
4. Pass the iron over it 2-3 times with minimal pressure for less than 10 seconds per side. If using a panini press, simply press it.
5. Flip the bag and repeat.
6. Allow the semi-firm bag to cool under a heavy object to prevent curling, easing insertion into the mold later.
Note: A standard-size bag will occupy approximately 0.4 inches (1 cm) in a 1-inch by 1-inch (2.54 cm by 2.54 cm) beam. Ensure sufficient bags are processed before proceeding.
Your beam/mold requires a quick-release mechanism for easy removal before the plastic cools and obstructs access to the bottom. This guide outlines the necessary steps.
### Materials Needed
### Tools
- Metal grinder
- Hot rolled steel beam
- Small metal scrap for use as a slider and mold bottom
- Eye protection
### Steps
**Step 1:** Measure and mark 1/16 inch (or 1.6 mm) from one side of the beam for cutting. If the beam is aluminum or very thin, consider increasing this distance, but note that deeper cuts make plastic removal more difficult.
**Step 2:** Repeat the marking process on the opposite side of the beam.
**Step 3:** Utilize the metal grinder to make slots on both sides, ensuring they align for the metal scrap to slide through. Misaligned cuts may prevent proper fitting.
**Step 4:** Select and cut a scrap metal piece to fit tightly with minimal gaps.
### Beam Formation Method
#### Materials Required:
- Outdoor fire pit or an equivalent heat source capable of maintaining temperatures above 482°F (250°C)
- Carbon activator gas mask
- Mold: Hot-rolled steel tube is recommended, available at hardware stores for approximately $25
- Heat-resistant gloves
- Pushing stick: Use solid wood or metal matching the beam's inner dimensions
- Fire-making materials, such as kindling
- Textile iron or panini press
- 5-foot metal clamp
- Pliers
- Metal clamp, approximately 5 feet
- Push stick (solid wood/metal)
This method is more efficient than manual techniques and produces a denser beam. A 5-foot clamp is beneficial for this process.
### Hardware
### Steps
- Hot-rolled steel tube (mold)
- Metal scrap (slider/mold bottom)
- Outdoor fire pit (482°F+ capable)
- Fire-making materials (kindling)
- Wax paper
**Step 1:** Insert a metal piece at the bottom of the mold. Ensure it is secure yet removable with pliers, serving as a quick-release mechanism for later removal.
### Protective Gear
**Step 2:** Load a few plastic bags into the mold and compress them with a push stick before igniting a fire. It is advisable to use a clamp technique for adding more bags due to the difficulty of doing so manually later.
**Step 3:** Build a consistently burning fire. Keep wood nearby to maintain the fire for at least 30 minutes if needed.
Step 4: Position the beam over the fire and allow it to heat.
Step 5: Once sufficiently heated, insert and secure the push stick in the clamp.
Step 6: Tighten the clamp to compress the beam, repeating as necessary to solidify it.
Note: Depending on your clamp type, you may need to adjust it by sliding the stationary side closer for additional compression length.
Note: If desired, add more plastic bags after the initial compression to achieve the preferred length, though it is advisable not to exceed 10 inches (25 cm) for ease of removal.
### Beam Removal Process
1. **Remove Stopper:** Use pliers to extract the stopper from the bottom.
2. **Attempt Beam Removal:** Press the push stick in, applying steady pressure. If successful, the process is complete. If not, proceed to the next step.
3. **Reinsert Beam:** Place the beam back into the rig, ensuring the stopper is not in place.
4. **Tighten Clamp:** While the material remains pliable, tighten the clamp. Once movement is detected, remove the mold from the beam and complete with the push stick.
## Beam Creation Tutorial
### Introduction
Begin by constructing your mold and preparing the plastic bags. Once ready, proceed with melting the bags into beams. Be aware that manual methods may result in more air pockets compared to the use of metal clamps. If possible, utilize a metal clamp longer than 5 feet (1.5 meters) for improved results.
### Materials Required
- Outdoor fire pit or an alternative heat source capable of maintaining temperatures above 482°F (250°C).
- Carbon activator gas mask.
- Mold: A hot rolled steel tube is recommended; available at hardware stores for approximately $25.
- Heat-resistant gloves.
- Pushing stick: Made of solid wood or metal, matching the inner dimensions of your beam.
- Materials for fire-starting, such as lighter wood.
- Pliers.
Step 1: Place the metal piece at the bottom of the mold, securing it for later removal with pliers as a quick-release mechanism.
Step 2: Insert several plastic bags into the mold and compress them with a push stick before igniting a fire. Ensure the mold is not entirely filled, using no more than eight bags at a time. Compress manually to achieve a solid final product.
Step 3: Maintain a consistent fire, keeping wood nearby to sustain it for at least 30 minutes.
### Step 4
Hold the mold over the fire, rotating it. Prepare the push stick to compress in a few moments. If the fire is well-built, the material will become malleable in about 30 seconds.
### Step 5
Use the push stick to compress the material. Apply maximum pressure; the more force exerted, the denser the product will be.
### Step 6
Gradually add extra strips of material while compressing it with the push stick between additions until you reach the desired length. Add approximately 1 inch (2.54 cm) extra to account for thermal expansion and removal.
### Step 7
Once the beam is properly compressed, use pliers to remove the bottom slider acting as a stop. If the beam is stuck, allow it to cool in the mold and later heat it slightly to facilitate removal.
- Carbon activator gas mask
- Heat-resistant gloves
- Eye protection

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"text": "In the modern and industrial European country such as Czech Republic was in 2020 recycled only 30% of plastic material, 39% was burned as a certified fuel and remaining ended up somewere else. People can collect it but do not know how to reuse it. \nIn my opinion, problem is in the ignorance. \n\nI believe that education with real examples can increase awarness about lowering consumption of single use plastic, reusing and recycling. Young generation should know about plastic more information that I learned as a teenager. \n\nWe have an ability to choose how our future World will look like. \n",
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"text": "As an example I prepared content for 3 different activites that you can do. It was designed according to my experience for machines and tools I use. \n\nAFTER SCHOOL ACTIVITY FOR KIDS:\n\n+ many topics described on detal\n+ regular basis\n+ more time for creative activities\n+ space for development \n+ individual approach\n\n- suitable only for small group\n- requires a facility and equipment\n\nPRESENTATION AT SCHOOL:\n\n+ larger impact \n+ demonstration technology on site\n+ cheaper than regular hobby club \n+ presentation at school \n\n\n- a brief overview about problem\n- not enough time to explain everything\n\nWORKSHOP FOR PUBLIC: \n\n+ individual approach\n+ creative and education activities \n+ participants make their own product \n+ providing advices how to join pp\n+ single afternoon activity\n\n- suitable for small groups \n- requires a facility and equipment\n\n\n",
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"text": "In case you need more information, ask me: info@plastmakers.com\n\nYou can also visit me in Liberec (Czech Republic) or book for a workshop/ presentation at your event. \n\nAll news and new projects I also publish on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/plastmakers/\n\nI wish you all the best. \n\nTom\n\n",
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"text": "### Download Instructions\n\nThe total package size is 1.1 GB, making it unsuitable for direct upload here. You can download it for free via the following Google Drive link:\n\n[Download from Google Drive](https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1Mwp2PZPxX7lRY0rVgQ_F8svFhY6AAQRr?usp=sharing)\n\nFeel free to edit, share, and use the materials as needed.",
"title": "Download package "
},
{
"text": "## Example Activities for Makers\n\n### After-School Activity for Kids\n\n**Pros:**\n- Detailed topic coverage\n- Regular sessions\n- Ample time for creativity\n- Encourages development\n- Personalized attention\n\n**Cons:**\n- Limited to small groups\n- Requires facility and equipment\n\n### School Presentation\n\n**Pros:**\n- Broader impact\n- On-site technology demonstration\n- Cost-effective compared to hobby clubs\n- Conducted in schools\n\n**Cons:**\n- Provides only a brief overview\n- Insufficient time for in-depth explanation\n\n### Public Workshop\n\n**Pros:**\n- Personalized attention\n- Creative and educational activities\n- Participants create their own products\n- Guides on joining initiatives\n- Conducted in a single afternoon\n\n**Cons:**\n- Limited to small groups\n- Requires facility and equipment",
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"src": "/resources/howtos/how-to-teach-about-plastic-recycling/workshops_for_public.png",
"alt": "workshops for public.png"
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],
"title": "Choose activity you want to do"
},
{
"images": [
{
"name": "end.png",
"updated": "2022-02-03T09:37:47.306Z",
"type": "image/png",
"downloadUrl": "https://firebasestorage.googleapis.com/v0/b/onearmyworld.appspot.com/o/uploads%2Fhowtos%2FW4gG5h3nPs74n95rPClf%2Fend.png?alt=media&token=33b47abb-6075-4059-899e-fd7351bc1614",
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"alt": "end.png"
}
],
"title": "More information",
"_animationKey": "uniqueonp1yj",
"text": "For more information, please contact info@plastmakers.com.\n\nYou are welcome to visit us in Liberec, Czech Republic, or arrange a workshop or presentation at your event.\n\nUpdates and new projects are available on Instagram: [instagram.com/plastmakers](https://www.instagram.com/plastmakers/)\n\nBest regards,\n\nTom"
}
],
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"_id": "CrZjHORWfxEl6iDrrPIO",
"label": "Guides",
"_deleted": false,
"_created": "2022-09-18T08:51:47.196Z",
"_modified": "2022-09-18T08:51:47.196Z"
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"id": "W4gG5h3nPs74n95rPClf",
"title": "How to teach about plastic recycling",
"tags": [
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],
"user": {
"_id": "plastmakers",
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{
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{
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{
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"title": "Plastmakers",
"images": [
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},
"images": []
"content": "## Tutorial Overview\n\nDrawing from practical experience, this package provides essential information for individuals, schools, and NGOs. It offers guidance on teaching various processing technologies.\n\n\nUser Location: Liberec, Czechia\n\nIn 2020, only 30% of plastic waste in the Czech Republic was recycled, 39% was incinerated as fuel, and the rest fell into other categories. While collection occurs, knowledge of reuse is limited. The primary issue is ignorance. Education with practical examples can raise awareness about reducing single-use plastics, reuse, and informed processes among the younger generation. We have the power to shape the future world.\n\n### Download Instructions\n\nThe total package size is 1.1 GB, making it unsuitable for direct upload here. You can download it for free via the following Google Drive link:\n\n[Download from Google Drive](https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1Mwp2PZPxX7lRY0rVgQ_F8svFhY6AAQRr?usp=sharing)\n\nFeel free to edit, share, and use the materials as needed.\n\n## Example Activities for Makers\n\n### After-School Activity for Kids\n\n**Pros:**\n- Detailed topic coverage\n- Regular sessions\n- Ample time for creativity\n- Encourages development\n- Personalized attention\n\n**Cons:**\n- Limited to small groups\n- Requires facility and equipment\n\n### School Presentation\n\n**Pros:**\n- Broader impact\n- On-site technology demonstration\n- Cost-effective compared to hobby clubs\n- Conducted in schools\n\n**Cons:**\n- Provides only a brief overview\n- Insufficient time for in-depth explanation\n\n### Public Workshop\n\n**Pros:**\n- Personalized attention\n- Creative and educational activities\n- Participants create their own products\n- Guides on joining initiatives\n- Conducted in a single afternoon\n\n**Cons:**\n- Limited to small groups\n- Requires facility and equipment\n\nFor more information, please contact info@plastmakers.com.\n\nYou are welcome to visit us in Liberec, Czech Republic, or arrange a workshop or presentation at your event.\n\nUpdates and new projects are available on Instagram: [instagram.com/plastmakers](https://www.instagram.com/plastmakers/)\n\nBest regards,\n\nTom",
"keywords": "plastic waste recycling, educational workshops, reuse of plastics, single-use plastics reduction, processing technologies education, Liberec workshops, NGOs environmental education, practical sustainability, plastic waste awareness, after-school activities",
"resources": "The tutorial focuses on educational outreach rather than specific technical tools, but key resources can be extracted:\n\n### Tools\n\n- Educational activity templates (included in download package)\n- Workshop guides for plastic reuse demonstrations\n- Presentation slide decks for schools\n- Creative project instructions for hands-on sessions\n- Customizable curriculum materials\n\n### Software\n\n- [Educational package download](https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1Mwp2PZPxX7lRY0rVgQ_F8svFhY6AAQRr?usp=sharing) (1.1 GB Google Drive resource)\n- Basic presentation software (e.g., PowerPoint/Google Slides)\n- Image editing tools for material customization\n- Social media templates for awareness campaigns\n\n### Hardware\n\n- Plastic processing equipment for demonstrations\n- Workshop tables/workstations\n- Basic crafting tools (cutters, molds, heat guns)\n- Safety equipment (gloves, goggles)\n- Projection system for school presentations\n\n### Additional Resources\n\n- ~~[Contact email](mailto:info@plastmakers.com)~~ for workshop arrangements\n- [Instagram updates](https://www.instagram.com/plastmakers/)\n- Local facility in Liberec for hands-on training\n- Partnership network information\n- Waste statistics references for educational materials",
"references": "**References**\n\n### Open-source Designs\n\n- [Plastmakers Educational Package](https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1Mwp2PZPxX7lRY0rVgQ_F8svFhY6AAQRr?usp=sharing)\n\n### Other Resources\n\n- [Plastmakers on Instagram](https://www.instagram.com/plastmakers/)"
}

553
howtos/injection-machine-automatic-connection-upgrade/config.json
View File

@ -1,28 +1,23 @@
{
"description": "This How-To will show you how to upgrade your injection machine and molds to make your injection process faster, safer, and more efficient!\nThis trick works on any injection mold that have a threaded connection to the machine nozzle. Install a brass garden hose connector and voilà!",
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"description": "# How-To Guide for Upgrading Your Injection Machine and Molds\n\nImprove the speed, safety, and efficiency of your injection process by upgrading your machine and molds. For any injection mold with a threaded connection to the machine nozzle, simply install a brass garden hose connector.",
"id": "UMzChzofue4ClKLeZ6MA",
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{
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"text": "The injection machine is a great tool to raise awareness about plastic pollution and demonstrate the plastic recycling process.\nHowever if you need to produce many parts, the process can be a little slow and difficult.\n\nHere are the main problems in my opinion:\n\n-Molds are hard to attach to the machine ---> Often get clogged up by molten plastic, making the assembly difficult and require cleaning between each cycle\n\n-Unmolding takes time---> Threaded mold connectors create undercut shapes, making unmolding difficult\n\n\nHere are the specifications that the upgrade system must achieve:\n\n1-\tAllow molds to be attached and detached from the machine in 1 movement\n2-\tReduce uncomfortable position for the operator\n3-\tReduce production waste\n4-\tBe usable with gloves easily \n5-\tReduce cycle time\n6-\tDo not require cleaning between each cycle\n\nThe trick is to use a brass garden hose connector, available in gardening and home improvement store, to easily connect your mold ans be more efficient!",
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"title": "Bill of materials: ",
"text": "You'll need :\n\nx1 1 inch female brass garden hose connector with EXTERNAL threads (picture n°2)\nx2 1/2\" inch male brass garden hose connector (or any other size depending on what fits on your mold), with INTERNAL threads (picture n°3)\nx1 1/2\" inch brass endcap (picture n°1)\nYou'll find all of this in your local hardware/gardening store.\n\n1 - 14mm long piece of M14 threaded rod (or a 14mm diameter round stock (Edit: for this tutorial I used M 14 threaded rod because the exterior diameter is the right size for the application, but you can use any other 14mm round stock you have on hand, the exterior threads are not needed)\n\n1- 10mm drill bit \nA drill and a vise\n\nATTENTION: Buy the right hardware for your particular machine and mold! Check dimensions\n\nMetric to inch equivalent: \n1/2 \" = 15x21 threads"
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"text": "The first step is to fabricate a spacer: basically a 14mm diameter cylinder with a 10 mm hole in the middle (see plans below).\nYou can use M14 threaded rod a screw as it is easily available, but a 14 mm round stock is ok.\n\nUsing a drill and a vise, drill a 10 mm hole trough the hole spacer.\n\nMake sure your spacer fits nicely in both the male connector and the 1/4 inch adaptor to prevent leakage later on. \n\n\n",
"title": "Spacer fabrication",
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"text": "I-Modify your mold\n\n \n\n 1- Place the spacer inside your mold's ½ inch connector, it should fit inside snugly and fill the most of the empty space.\n\n 2- Screw the male brass connector on top of it\n\n 3- Drill with the 10 mm drill trough all the parts to enlarge the hole diameter up to 10 mm.\n\n Be careful to drill right in the center, otherwise you can damage the threads.\n\nYou'll have to repeat those steps for each one of your molds (once the mold have been used, it is inconvenient to remove the male connector and spacer inside, it is easier to fit all your molds with male connectors)\n\n\nII- Assemble your plug:\n\n - Simply take the second male connector and screw it to the end cap --> Here's your new plug :) (Picture n°1)\n\nIII- Modify your injection machine \n\n -Unscrew the current threaded nozzle of your machine and replace it with the brass female connector!",
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"text": "1 - Prepare your mold as usual and heat up your machine\n\n2- When you are ready to inject, remove the plug by simply lifting the female connector exterior ring (picture n°2)\n\n3-Push your mold up into the connector, it will automatically latch onto it and make a nice \"click\" sound\n\n4- Inject your mold\n\n5- To remove the mold, just lift the female connector exterior ring and get your mold, then place the plug back inside.\n\n6-Repeat :)\n\nUsing this method, I was able to pull out about 15 injections/ hour, which is way more than I used to."
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"text": "The piece of rod is here to fill the void inside the male connector. The molten plastic can then flows through the 10 mm round channel, and the sprue can be pulled out from the mold easily (Picture N°1)\n\nATTENTION: Don't forget the spacer, otherwise you are going to have a bad time unmold (picture n°2)."
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"_id": "pJFU3Q26kqUdLM2PAXkl",
"creatorName": "precious-plastic-provence",
"text": "I don't understand steps 3 and 4 as parts such as this one (https://www.leroymerlin.fr/produits/plomberie/accessoires-de-robinet/raccord-de-robinetterie/nez-de-robinet-laiton-male-3-4-embout-rapide-15-mm-83683924.html?src=clk) can be found in hardware stores. Any reason for this ?",
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"_created": "2023-12-02T18:08:42.356Z"
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"text": "The injection machine effectively highlights plastic issues and illustrates the recycling process. However, for high-volume production, it can be slow and challenging.\n\nHere are the primary issues:\n\n- Molds are difficult to attach; they often clog with molten plastic, complicating assembly and necessitating cleaning after each cycle.\n- Unmolding is time-consuming; threaded mold connectors create undercuts, complicating unmolding.\n\nThe upgrade system must accomplish the following:\n\n1. Enable single-movement mold attachment and detachment\n2. Improve operator comfort\n3. Minimize production waste\n4. Allow use with gloves\n5. Reduce cycle time\n6. Eliminate the need for cleaning between cycles\n\nUsing a brass garden hose connector, found at garden and home improvement stores, can facilitate efficient mold connection.",
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"title": "The problems with injection"
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"text": "You'll need:\n\n- 1 x 1-inch female brass garden hose connector with external threads\n- 2 x 1/2-inch male brass garden hose connector with internal threads (or another size to fit your mold)\n- 1 x 1/2-inch brass endcap\n\nThese items are available at most hardware or gardening stores.\n\n- 14mm (9/16-inch) long piece of M14 threaded rod or 14mm (9/16-inch) diameter round stock (M14 threaded rod is recommended for its suitable diameter, though any 14mm round stock will suffice)\n- 10mm (3/8-inch) drill bit\n- A drill and a vise\n\nNote: Ensure compatibility with your machine and mold; verify dimensions. \n\nMetric to inch equivalents: \n1/2 inch = 15x21 threads",
"title": "Bill of materials: "
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"text": "Begin by fabricating a spacer: a cylinder with a 14 mm (0.55 inches) diameter and a 10 mm (0.39 inches) central hole. Refer to the plans below. \n\nAn M14 threaded rod or screw is suitable and commonly available, but a 14 mm (0.55 inches) round stock is also acceptable.\n\nUsing a drill and vise, create the 10 mm (0.39 inches) hole through the spacer.\n\nEnsure the spacer fits well in both the male connector and the 1/4 inch (6.35 mm) adaptor to prevent leakage.",
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"text": "# Modify Your Mold\n\n1. Insert the spacer into the mold's 1/2 inch (12.7 mm) connector, ensuring it fits snugly and occupies most of the empty space.\n2. Attach the male brass connector on top.\n3. Drill through all parts with a 10 mm (0.39 inch) drill bit to enlarge the hole to 10 mm (0.39 inch). Ensure precise drilling to avoid damaging the threads.\n\nRepeat these steps for each mold to fit them all with male connectors for convenience.\n\n# Assemble Your Plug\n\n- Attach the second male connector to the end cap to create your new plug.\n\n# Modify Your Injection Machine\n\n- Remove the current threaded nozzle and replace it with the brass female connector.",
"title": "Assembly steps"
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"title": "Instructions for operation",
"text": "1. Prepare your mold and heat the machine.\n\n2. To inject, lift the female connector's exterior ring to remove the plug.\n\n3. Push the mold into the connector, which will latch with a \"click.\"\n\n4. Inject into the mold.\n\n5. To remove, lift the connector ring and extract the mold, then replace the plug.\n\n6. Repeat as necessary.\n\nThis method achieved approximately 15 injections per hour, surpassing previous results."
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"text": "The rod fills the void inside the male connector, allowing molten plastic to flow through the 10 mm (0.39 inches) channel. This enables easy removal of the sprue from the mold (see Picture 1).\n\nAttention: Remember the spacer to ensure smooth unmolding (see Picture 2).",
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"title": "No more undercut shapes!"
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{
"_id": "pJFU3Q26kqUdLM2PAXkl",
"_created": "2023-12-02T18:08:42.356Z",
"text": "I don't understand steps 3 and 4 as parts such as this one (https://www.leroymerlin.fr/produits/plomberie/accessoires-de-robinet/raccord-de-robinetterie/nez-de-robinet-laiton-male-3-4-embout-rapide-15-mm-83683924.html?src=clk) can be found in hardware stores. Any reason for this ?",
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"content": "# How-To Guide for Upgrading Your Injection Machine and Molds\n\nImprove the speed, safety, and efficiency of your injection process by upgrading your machine and molds. For any injection mold with a threaded connection to the machine nozzle, simply install a brass garden hose connector.\n\n\nUser Location: Ajaccio, France\n\nThe injection machine effectively highlights plastic issues and illustrates the recycling process. However, for high-volume production, it can be slow and challenging.\n\nHere are the primary issues:\n\n- Molds are difficult to attach; they often clog with molten plastic, complicating assembly and necessitating cleaning after each cycle.\n- Unmolding is time-consuming; threaded mold connectors create undercuts, complicating unmolding.\n\nThe upgrade system must accomplish the following:\n\n1. Enable single-movement mold attachment and detachment\n2. Improve operator comfort\n3. Minimize production waste\n4. Allow use with gloves\n5. Reduce cycle time\n6. Eliminate the need for cleaning between cycles\n\nUsing a brass garden hose connector, found at garden and home improvement stores, can facilitate efficient mold connection.\n\nYou'll need:\n\n- 1 x 1-inch female brass garden hose connector with external threads\n- 2 x 1/2-inch male brass garden hose connector with internal threads (or another size to fit your mold)\n- 1 x 1/2-inch brass endcap\n\nThese items are available at most hardware or gardening stores.\n\n- 14mm (9/16-inch) long piece of M14 threaded rod or 14mm (9/16-inch) diameter round stock (M14 threaded rod is recommended for its suitable diameter, though any 14mm round stock will suffice)\n- 10mm (3/8-inch) drill bit\n- A drill and a vise\n\nNote: Ensure compatibility with your machine and mold; verify dimensions. \n\nMetric to inch equivalents: \n1/2 inch = 15x21 threads\n\nBegin by fabricating a spacer: a cylinder with a 14 mm (0.55 inches) diameter and a 10 mm (0.39 inches) central hole. Refer to the plans below. \n\nAn M14 threaded rod or screw is suitable and commonly available, but a 14 mm (0.55 inches) round stock is also acceptable.\n\nUsing a drill and vise, create the 10 mm (0.39 inches) hole through the spacer.\n\nEnsure the spacer fits well in both the male connector and the 1/4 inch (6.35 mm) adaptor to prevent leakage.\n\n# Modify Your Mold\n\n1. Insert the spacer into the mold's 1/2 inch (12.7 mm) connector, ensuring it fits snugly and occupies most of the empty space.\n2. Attach the male brass connector on top.\n3. Drill through all parts with a 10 mm (0.39 inch) drill bit to enlarge the hole to 10 mm (0.39 inch). Ensure precise drilling to avoid damaging the threads.\n\nRepeat these steps for each mold to fit them all with male connectors for convenience.\n\n# Assemble Your Plug\n\n- Attach the second male connector to the end cap to create your new plug.\n\n# Modify Your Injection Machine\n\n- Remove the current threaded nozzle and replace it with the brass female connector.\n\n1. Prepare your mold and heat the machine.\n\n2. To inject, lift the female connector's exterior ring to remove the plug.\n\n3. Push the mold into the connector, which will latch with a \"click.\"\n\n4. Inject into the mold.\n\n5. To remove, lift the connector ring and extract the mold, then replace the plug.\n\n6. Repeat as necessary.\n\nThis method achieved approximately 15 injections per hour, surpassing previous results.\n\nThe rod fills the void inside the male connector, allowing molten plastic to flow through the 10 mm (0.39 inches) channel. This enables easy removal of the sprue from the mold (see Picture 1).\n\nAttention: Remember the spacer to ensure smooth unmolding (see Picture 2).",
"keywords": "upgrading injection machine, mold improvement, injection molding efficiency, brass garden hose connector, injection mold connector, improve production speed, injection machine upgrade, mold attachment system, reduce cycle time, operator comfort",
"resources": "### Hardware\n\n- 1-inch female brass garden hose connector (external threads)\n- 2x 1/2-inch male brass garden hose connectors (internal threads)\n- 1/2-inch brass endcap\n- M14 threaded rod (14mm length) or 14mm round stock\n- 10mm drill bit\n\n### Tools\n\n- Drill\n- Vise\n\n### Software\n\n- No software required",
"references": "## Articles\n\n- [Make Your Own Injection Molding Machine](https://makezine.com/projects/diy-injection-molding/)\n- [Mold and Connector for Injection Molding](https://www.instructables.com/Mold-and-Connector-for-Injection-Molding/)\n- [DIY Injection Molding: How to Mold Plastic Parts In-House](https://formlabs.com/blog/diy-injection-molding/)\n- [Injection Mold Construction (Wikipedia)](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Injection_mold_construction)\n\n## Opensource Designs\n\n- Injection Machine Automatic Connection Upgrade (Precious Plastic)\n\n## YouTube\n\n- [Buster Beagle 3D Injection Molding Machine MK4 Updates](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dzYe9b0Iuzc)\n\n## Products\n\n- [Power Cord Plug Injection Molding Machine (KINGSING)](https://www.kingsing.com/product/793.html)\n- [Brass Injection Moulding Inserts](https://precision-brass-parts.com/brass-injection-moulding-inserts/)\n- [CPC308 Brass Injection Mold Coupler (Green Line Hose)](https://www.greenlinehose.com/buy/product/cpc308/139364)"
}

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"text": "First off, here is your download package for this machine!\n\nIn this folder you will find:\n- 3D CAD (.step and .f3d)\n- Lasercut files (.dxf)\n- Blueprints (.pdf)\n- Schematics\n- BOM",
"text": "Download the package for this machine, which includes:\n\n- 3D CAD files (.step and .f3d)\n- Laser cut files (.dxf)\n- Blueprints (.pdf)\n- Schematics\n- Bill of Materials (BOM)",
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"text": "These are the required skills and machinery you or your machine builder will need to have access to:\n\n- General metalworking (cutting, drilling)\n- Welding\n- Turning (machining on a lathe)\n- Milling (machining on a mill)\n- Laser cutting\n- General electrical work (wiring safety switch, temperature controllers…)\n- Painting\n\n⚙️ Machinery / specific tools needed:\n- Grinder, chop saw, MIG/MAG or TIG, drill press\n- Lathe, mill (CNC)\n- Laser cutting (this can easily be subcontracted around the world)",
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"text": "- We recommend to place your machine in a leveled floor and it's even better if you can screw the machine to the floor too for more stability. \n- Always make sure to wear the safety equipment when running this machine (high heat resistant gloves, goggles, gas mask and safety clothing), also a well ventilated area is highly recommended. \n- When purchasing moulds, make sure they come with chamfered nozzle (not threaded) so that they can fit nicely with the cap nut used for the nozzle. \n\n\n"
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"title": "Create, share back and Sell :)",
"text": "Start creating!\nYou'll be able to produce a large variety of products like tiles, pots, sunglass frames and more.\nHave a look at the How-to's to find inspiration for injection moulds or products:\n👉 https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to?tags=JVpo3tdEqbk8G787hAZH\n\nBuy and sell on the Bazar!\nOn the Precious Plastic Bazar you can buy moulds or parts for this machine - or sell your own creations and machines!\n👉 bazar.preciousplastic.com\n\nAnd if you replicate this machine and improve it, dont forget to share back! :) or if you have question on how to build it, join us on Discord 👉 https://discord.com/invite/rnx7m4t\n\nIf you want to know about the design process take a look at this video 👉 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jWbkIa0ncIU\n\nHappy melting! 🤗",
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"alt": "IMG_2806-186608dfb5d.JPG"
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],
"text": "## Start Creating\n\nBegin crafting a diverse range of products such as tiles, pots, and sunglass frames. Browse the tutorials for inspiration on injection molds and products.\n\n### Design Resources\n\nIf interested in the design process, watch the accompanying video: [Watch Video on YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jWbkIa0ncIU).\n\n### Community and Improvement\n\nShould you replicate or enhance this machine, consider sharing your improvements. For inquiries about construction, seek advice from fellow makers.\n\n### Keep Innovating\n\nContinue experimenting and refining your creations."
}
],
"_id": "TTjLUTLsBVO5OYSvrKsv",
"_createdBy": "joostdommisse",
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"comments": [
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"_created": "2023-05-21T08:27:25.085Z",
"creatorCountry": "it",
"text": "what a beautiful and thoughtful project. I hope i will make it in the next iteration of my workspace",
"creatorName": "precious-plastic-genova",
"_created": "2023-05-21T08:27:25.085Z",
"_id": "q9K4Eh3KqqkGExFrAsdU",
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"title": "Joost Arbor Press",
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@ -159,19 +160,40 @@
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"description": "Joost's Arbor Press is a machine based on the original design of the Injection machine made by Precious Plastic\n(https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/build/injection)\n\nThis machine solves two main problems: Ergonomics, that was directly affecting the user experience and therefore productivity and the pressure, which was bringing a big limitation for what we could make with this machine.\n\nIn this how-to you'll find the download files and the requirements to build and run this machine yourself :)",
"time": "1-2 weeks",
"id": "TTjLUTLsBVO5OYSvrKsv",
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"total_downloads": 131,
"description": "Joost's Arbor Press is derived from the original Injection machine design. It addresses two key issues: improving ergonomics to enhance user experience and productivity, and increasing pressure capabilities to expand its functionality. This guide includes downloadable files and instructions for constructing and operating this machine.",
"content": "Joost's Arbor Press is derived from the original Injection machine design. It addresses two key issues: improving ergonomics to enhance user experience and productivity, and increasing pressure capabilities to expand its functionality. This guide includes downloadable files and instructions for constructing and operating this machine.\n\nDownload the package for this machine, which includes:\n\n- 3D CAD files (.step and .f3d)\n- Laser cut files (.dxf)\n- Blueprints (.pdf)\n- Schematics\n- Bill of Materials (BOM)\n\n### Required Skills and Equipment for Machine Building\n\n**Skills Needed:**\n\n- Metalworking: Cutting, drilling\n- Welding\n- Machining: Lathe turning\n- Milling\n- Laser cutting\n- Electrical work: Wiring safety switches, installing temperature controllers\n- Painting\n\n**Machinery and Tools:**\n\n- Grinder, chop saw, MIG/MAG or TIG welder, drill press\n- Lathe, milling machine (CNC)\n- Access to laser cutting (can be outsourced)\n\n- It is advised to place your machine on a level surface and, for increased stability, secure it to the floor. \n- Ensure the use of safety equipment when operating the machine, including heat-resistant gloves, goggles, a gas mask, and safety clothing. A well-ventilated area is also recommended. \n- When buying molds, ensure they have a chamfered nozzle (not threaded) to fit properly with the cap nut used for the nozzle.\n\n## Start Creating\n\nBegin crafting a diverse range of products such as tiles, pots, and sunglass frames. Browse the tutorials for inspiration on injection molds and products.\n\n### Design Resources\n\nIf interested in the design process, watch the accompanying video: [Watch Video on YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jWbkIa0ncIU).\n\n### Community and Improvement\n\nShould you replicate or enhance this machine, consider sharing your improvements. For inquiries about construction, seek advice from fellow makers.\n\n### Keep Innovating\n\nContinue experimenting and refining your creations.",
"keywords": "Joost's Arbor Press, ergonomics, pressure capabilities, 3D CAD files, laser cutting, metalworking skills, injection molds, safety equipment, machine construction, product design",
"resources": "To address the technical requirements of building Joost's Arbor Press, here's an organized breakdown of necessary components and resources:\n\n### Tools\n\n- Grinder\n- Chop saw\n- MIG/MAG or TIG welder\n- Drill press\n\n### Machinery\n\n- Lathe\n- Milling machine (CNC recommended)\n- Access to laser cutting services (outsource if needed)\n\n### Software & Design Resources\n\n- 3D CAD files (.step/.f3d)\n- Laser cut templates (.dxf)\n- Blueprints/schematics (.pdf)\n- Bill of Materials (BOM)\n- [Design tutorial video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jWbkIa0ncIU)\n\n### Safety Equipment\n\n- Heat-resistant gloves\n- Safety goggles\n- Gas mask\n- Protective clothing\n- Ventilated workspace\n\n### Mold Specifications\n\n- Chamfered nozzle design (non-threaded)\n- Compatible cap nut interface",
"references": "## References\n\n### Articles\n\n- [Injection molding: The manufacturing & design guide](https://www.hubs.com/guides/injection-molding/)\n- [How to Build Your Own Injection Molding Machine](https://www.machinedesign.com/3d-printing-cad/article/21263614/how-to-build-your-own-injection-molding-machine)\n- [Arbor Press | Hackaday](https://hackaday.com/tag/arbor-press/)\n\n### Books\n\n- [Runner and Gating Design Handbook Second Edition](https://www.beaumontinc.com/about/books-by-beaumont/)\n- [Successful Injection Molding: Process, Design, and Simulation](https://www.beaumontinc.com/about/books-by-beaumont/)\n- [Injection Molding Handbook](https://www.beaumontinc.com/about/books-by-beaumont/)\n\n### Papers\n\n- ~~[Open-source 3-D printable autoinjector: Design, testing, and regulatory limitations](https://journals.plos.org/plosone/article?id=10.1371%2Fjournal.pone.0288696)~~\n- [Design and Fabrication of Injection Moulding Machine](https://www.jetir.org/papers/JETIR1901214.pdf)\n- ~~[Design of an injection molding machine](https://research.tue.nl/files/4318451/654118.pdf)~~\n\n### YouTube\n\n- [NEW Plastic Injection Machine SNEAK PEEK](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jWbkIa0ncIU)\n\n### Open Source Designs\n\n- Joost Arbor Press - Precious Plastic Academy\n- [Arbour Press Injection Machine - Sustainable Design Studio](https://www.sustainabledesign.studio/store/p/arbourinjection)\n- Make open-source Arbor Press injection machine - Precious Plastic Research"
}

358
howtos/lampshade-from-recycled-bottle-caps/config.json
View File

@ -1,258 +1,268 @@
{
"title": "Lampshade from Recycled Bottle Caps",
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"_creatorId": "aQpbbzGRRtSMR02ENC15MdLA2aT2",
"creatorName": "mattia",
"text": "this is very similar process/outcome https://www.instagram.com/p/CqCz2FPONPa/"
}
],
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"steps": [
{
"text": "Here’s what you need:\n- The HDPE plastic board that you’re going to bend: \n - 30 cm x 10,5 cm, 5 mm (thickness)
\n - ⌀9,5 cm, 5 mm (thickness) 
\n- A portable sanding machine
\n- A soldering iron
\n- A table saw\n- Rope
\n",
"title": "Prepare all the materials and tools",
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"text": "Requirements:\n- HDPE plastic board:\n - 11.8 in x 4.1 in, 0.2 in (thickness)\n - ⌀3.7 in, 0.2 in (thickness)\n- Portable sanding machine\n- Soldering iron\n- Table saw\n- Rope"
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"title": "Score the plastic",
"text": "First, we’re using the table saw to score the plastic. Cut 3 mm in depth while keeping a 5 mm distance between each cut. Make sure you’re scoring the board perpendicular to the direction of the bend.",
"_animationKey": "unique2"
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{
"title": "Thin out the end sides of the plastic board",
"text": "Thin out the end sides of the plastic board using a portable sanding machine so that the sides will fit better in the next step.",
"_animationKey": "unique3",
"_animationKey": "unique2",
"text": "First, use the table saw to score the plastic. Cut to a depth of 0.12 inches (3 mm), maintaining a 0.20-inch (5 mm) gap between each cut. Ensure the board is scored perpendicular to the bend direction.",
"images": [
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"_animationKey": "unique3",
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},
{
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"text": "Now bend it with care. Secure it using a rope.",
"_animationKey": "unique0wh8sv",
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"title": "Bend it",
"text": "Now bend it carefully! Use a rope to tighten it in place."
]
},
{
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"title": "Weld the end pieces of plastic",
"images": [
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"text": "this is very similar process/outcome https://www.instagram.com/p/CqCz2FPONPa/",
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"content": "## How to Bend a Plastic Sheet Without Heat or Mold\n\nThis guide demonstrates bending a plastic sheet using a method inspired by the woodworking technique known as kerfing, which bends wood without water or steam.\n\n\nUser Location: Cikarang, Indonesia\n\nRequirements:\n- HDPE plastic board:\n - 11.8 in x 4.1 in, 0.2 in (thickness)\n - ⌀3.7 in, 0.2 in (thickness)\n- Portable sanding machine\n- Soldering iron\n- Table saw\n- Rope\n\nFirst, use the table saw to score the plastic. Cut to a depth of 0.12 inches (3 mm), maintaining a 0.20-inch (5 mm) gap between each cut. Ensure the board is scored perpendicular to the bend direction.\n\nThin the edges of the plastic board using a portable sander for a better fit in the subsequent step.\n\nNow bend it with care. Secure it using a rope.\n\n### Instructions for Soldering Plastic\n\nUsing a soldering iron, securely weld the plastic end pieces together. Ensure the bond is strong.\n\nTo achieve an even surface, use the sanding machine to smooth the welded section.\n\n## Completed Lampshade\n\nYour lampshade is finished.",
"keywords": "Bend plastic sheet, kerfing technique, HDPE plastic board, plastic sheet bending, plastic bending without heat, table saw plastic cutting, soldering plastic, sanding plastic, plastic lampshade creation, woodworking techniques plastic.",
"resources": "To bend a plastic sheet using kerfing-inspired techniques as described, the following tools and materials are required:\n\n### Tools\n\n- ~~[Portable sanding machine](example.com/sander)~~ (for edge thinning/smoothing)\n- ~~[Soldering iron](example.com/soldering)~~ (plastic welding)\n- ~~[Table saw](example.com/tablesaw)~~ (scoring cuts)\n\n### Hardware\n\n- ~~[HDPE plastic board](example.com/hdpe)~~ (11.8×4.1 in, ⌀3.7 in, 0.2 in thick)\n- ~~[Rope](example.com/rope)~~ (securing bends)\n\nNo specific software is needed for this method.",
"references": "## Articles\n\n- https://polysynthesis.au/blog-plastic-sheet-bending/\n- https://polysynthesis.au/bent-plastic/\n- https://www.justpolycarbonate.com/post/bending-polycarbonate-everything-you-need-to-know\n- https://exceliteplas.com/fabrication/bending-plastic/\n- https://www.caamatech.com/post/arcylic-bend-guide\n- https://www.thesprucecrafts.com/bend-sheet-acrylic-plexiglass-with-tools-2366806\n- https://weetect.com/polycarbonate-bending/\n- https://www.beeplastic.com/blogs/plastic-insights/a-beginner-s-guide-to-bending-abs-plastic-sheets-and-rods\n\n## Papers\n\n- https://apps.dtic.mil/sti/tr/pdf/AD0847865.pdf\n- https://libstore.ugent.be/fulltxt/RUG01/003/014/851/RUG01-003014851_2021_0001_AC.pdf\n\n## YouTube\n\n- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ovqnIBQuezA\n- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t4JGlWyVDLs\n- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CIBRmBxTPCA\n\n## Opensource Designs\n\n- https://community.preciousplastic.com/library/bend-plastic-sheets\n- https://www.stirpad.com/news/stir-news/kuo-duo-lends-bendability-to-plastic-boards-through-the-kerf-plastic-series/\n- https://www.ucl.ac.uk/bartlett/architecture/kerf-sculpting\n- https://community.preciousplastic.com/library/bend-with-the-sheetpress\n- https://www.instructables.com/Laser-Cut-Ambient-Light-With-Kerf-Bends/"
}

404
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"_animationKey": "unique1",
"title": "Print Parts",
"text": "3D-Print the Top and bottom part of the shield. Download the Files for free from Thiniverse or Prusa or use the files in the zipped folder you can download here.",
"caption": "Printed Parts"
"caption": "Printed Parts",
"text": "To create the shield, 3D print the top and bottom parts. Download the files for free from websites like Thiniverse or Prusa, or access them from the zipped folder provided here.",
"title": "Print Parts"
},
{
"text": "You can use normal white elastic band like in our Video, but elastic band with button holes works best.",
"caption": "Elastic band",
"_animationKey": "unique2",
"title": "Get elastic Band",
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"caption": "Elastic band",
"text": "You can use a standard white elastic band, but one with buttonholes is preferable.",
"title": "Get elastic Band",
"_animationKey": "unique2"
},
{
"title": "Prepare bottle",
"_animationKey": "unique3",
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"title": "Prepare bottle",
"_animationKey": "unique3",
"text": "First of all, you need to wash out the bottle and then cut off the top and bottom parts. Finally cut along the side of the bottle so you can bend the Plastic open.",
"caption": ""
"caption": "",
"text": "First, wash the bottle. Then, cut off the top and bottom. Finally, cut the side to open the plastic."
},
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"caption": "Attaching parts",
"title": "Connect 3D-Printed parts",
"_animationKey": "uniqueyj8zj",
"text": "Start off with the bottom part. Fold open the PET bottle and press it into the the slit. The use the soldering iron to melt the PET and the printed parts in 3 Points that are visible from the inside.\n \nThe Next step is to attach the top part. First, use a edding to mark where to make holes in the bottle. Then use the soldering iron to melt these holes. After attaching the top part you can use the soldering iron the melt the plastic together for additional stregth. "
},
{
"_animationKey": "uniquer5qk57",
"caption": "Rounding off corners",
"text": "Use nail scissors to round off corners at the bottom of the PET shield. If you don't have nail scissors you can also use normal scissors.",
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"title": "Connect 3D-Printed parts",
"text": "### Instructions for Assembling the Bottle\n\n1. **Prepare the Bottle Base** \n Open the PET bottle and insert it into the slit at the bottom. Use a soldering iron to melt the PET and printed parts at three visible interior points.\n\n2. **Attach the Top Part** \n - Mark where to create holes in the bottle using a marker. \n - Melt the holes with a soldering iron. \n - After securing the top part, further melt the plastic together for enhanced durability.",
"caption": "Attaching parts"
},
{
"title": "Round off corners",
"text": "Use nail scissors to round the corners at the bottom of the PET shield. Normal scissors can be used as an alternative.",
"_animationKey": "uniquer5qk57",
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"title": "Round off corners"
"caption": "Rounding off corners"
},
{
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"text": "First, cut about 16-20cm of elastic band. Tie the elastic band around the two holders on both sides and make sure they are secure. ",
"text": "Firstly, cut approximately 6-8 inches (16-20 cm) of elastic band. Securely tie the band around the holders on both sides.",
"caption": "Cutting elastic band",
"title": "Attach elastic band"
},
{
"title": "Disinfect",
"text": "Use Disinfectant and wipe over the inner side of the shield to kill off any bacteria. PRUSA has made and is constantly updating a Sterilisation Guide. Be sure to check it out for more information.",
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}
],
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"title": "Make a Face Shield with a PET bottle",
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"content": "Amid a global shortage of protective equipment, individuals with access to a 3D printer can assist by producing face shields for frontline workers. This design allows you to create face shields using a PET bottle.\n\nFor assembly instructions, view the video here: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6u6y6gD17rk](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6u6y6gD17rk)\n\n\nUser Location: Oppenheim, Germany\n\nTo create the shield, 3D print the top and bottom parts. Download the files for free from websites like Thiniverse or Prusa, or access them from the zipped folder provided here.\n\nYou can use a standard white elastic band, but one with buttonholes is preferable.\n\nFirst, wash the bottle. Then, cut off the top and bottom. Finally, cut the side to open the plastic.\n\n### Instructions for Assembling the Bottle\n\n1. **Prepare the Bottle Base** \n Open the PET bottle and insert it into the slit at the bottom. Use a soldering iron to melt the PET and printed parts at three visible interior points.\n\n2. **Attach the Top Part** \n - Mark where to create holes in the bottle using a marker. \n - Melt the holes with a soldering iron. \n - After securing the top part, further melt the plastic together for enhanced durability.\n\nUse nail scissors to round the corners at the bottom of the PET shield. Normal scissors can be used as an alternative.\n\nFirstly, cut approximately 6-8 inches (16-20 cm) of elastic band. Securely tie the band around the holders on both sides.\n\nDisinfect the inner side of the shield to remove bacteria. PRUSA provides a Sterilization Guide for further details.",
"keywords": "3D printing face shields, PET bottle face shield, frontline workers protective gear, face shield assembly instructions, 3D print files download, Oppenheim Germany healthcare support, DIY face shield, Melt PET with soldering iron, secure elastic band face shield, PRUSA sterilization guide",
"resources": "To create DIY face shields using the described method, the following tools and materials are required:\n\n### Hardware\n\n- 3D printer for producing top/bottom parts\n- Soldering iron for melting PET/plastic components [Video Guide](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6u6y6gD17rk)\n- Nail scissors or regular scissors\n- PET beverage bottles (cleaned and cut)\n- Elastic band (preferably with buttonholes)\n\n### Software/Files\n\n- 3D printing files from [Thingiverse](https://www.thingiverse.com/) or [Prusa](https://www.prusa3d.com/)\n- Assembly [video tutorial](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6u6y6gD17rk)\n- Zipped design files from tutorial source\n- Prusa [Sterilization Guide](https://www.prusa3d.com/)\n\n### Tools/Materials\n\n- Permanent marker for hole marking\n- Disinfectant for inner shield surface\n- Plastic-cutting tools\n- Hole-punching equipment (soldering iron)\n- Fastening elements (buttonhole elastic recommended)",
"references": "## Articles\n\n- ~~[Turning Recycled Plastic Bottles into Face Shields for Better Protection](https://www.planetcustodon.com/recycled-plastic-bottles-to-face-shields/14003/)~~ [3]\n- [Make a DIY Face Shield Out of Plastic Soda Bottles](https://jewishjournal.com/culture/home/318908/make-a-diy-face-shield-out-of-plastic-soda-bottles/) [4]\n- [Can You Really Sterilize A 3D Print? Real Answers From Actual Studies](https://makezine.com/article/digital-fabrication/3d-printing-workshop/can-you-really-sterilize-a-3d-print-real-answers-from-actual-studies/) [10]\n\n## Papers\n\n- [2021 PROCEEDINGS (PDF)](https://www.4spe.org/files/resource_library_files/OTL/ANTEC2021/ANTEC2021-Fuentes.pdf) [9]\n- [Sterilization and Sanitizing of 3D-Printed PPE](https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC8193021/) [12]\n\n## Commercial Products\n\n- [Face Shield - rPET Plastic - Clear](https://www.brildor.com/en/face-shield-rpet-plastic-clear) [1]\n- ~~[RONA Face Shield - PET (Pack of 4)](https://www.rona.ca/en/product/rona-face-shield-pet-universal-size-pack-of-4-80575-55375139)~~ [5]\n\n## YouTube\n\n- [Face Shield Assembly Tutorial](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6u6y6gD17rk)\n\n## Open Source Designs\n\n- [Prusa Sterilization Guide for 3D-Printed Face Shields](https://tinyurl.com/twlpaub) [7]"
}

411
howtos/make-beam-jewelry--key-rings/config.json
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"content": "This guide explains the process of polishing a piece of PS BEAMS into a shiny piece of jewelry or key ring. You will need a machine to cut slices of the beams and various polishing grains. An electric polishing machine is recommended for optimal transparency and shine.\n\n\nUser Location: Brussels, Belgium\n\nBegin by cutting the beams into slices or small blocks. Slices are ideal for earrings or necklaces, while blocks are suitable for key rings. Cut slices slightly thicker than the intended final thickness, as polishing will thin them.\n\nStep 2 involves sculpting the slice to achieve the desired shape. Use an electric polishing machine or any preferred method. I will shape it into a round form for making earrings.\n\nBegin polishing your shape by starting with the coarsest grain and finishing with the finest grain. The thinner the grain, the smoother and more transparent the surface will be. Remember to polish the edges to ensure they are rounded and soft to the touch.\n\nYour pebble is now smooth, nearly transparent, and shining. For the final step, polish it with cotton using patinas for enhanced shine and clarity. The earrings (or necklace or key ring) are nearly ready. Simply drill small holes for attaching accessories using a screwdriver with a small metal bit.\n\nHere are a few examples of achievable outcomes and their final appearance.",
"keywords": "polishing PS BEAMS, jewelry making, electric polishing machine, polishing grains, Brussels jewelry, PS BEAMS slices, transparent jewelry, sculpting jewelry, shiny key rings, jewelry accessories",
"resources": "To create polished PS BEAMS jewelry or key rings, the following tools and materials are required based on the tutorial:\n\n### Hardware Tools\n\n- Machine for cutting PS BEAMS into slices or blocks\n- Electric polishing machine (for optimal transparency and shaping)\n- Screwdriver with small metal bit (for drilling holes)\n\n### Polishing Materials\n\n- Polishing grains (coarse to fine grits for smoothing)\n- Cotton (final polishing)\n- Patinas (to enhance shine and clarity)\n\n### Additional Accessories\n\n- Earring hooks, necklace chains, or key ring hardware (for assembly)\n\nThe process involves cutting, shaping with an electric polisher, progressive polishing, and finishing with cotton and patinas.",
"references": "**Articles**\n\n- https://www.kernowcraft.com/jewellery-making-tips/texturing-patina-finishing-advice/how-to-get-a-good-finish-on-your-jewellery\n- https://www.kernowcraft.com/jewellery-making-tips/texturing-patina-finishing-advice/hand-polishing-with-polishing-papers\n- https://www.romanoff.com/blog/what-is-an-electro-polishing-machine/\n- https://www.ganoksin.com/article/success-polishing-platinum/\n- https://www.jewepiter.com/jewelry-polishing/\n- https://www.nationaljeweler.com/articles/6019-video-the-machine-reimagining-diamond-polishing\n- https://www.fintek.co.uk/industry/automated-jewellery-finishing/\n- https://www.inovatecmachinery.com/jewelry-polishing-machine/\n\n**Books**\n\n- https://www.cooksongold.com/blog/inspiration/book-review-polishing-and-finishing-for-jewellers-and-silversmiths/\n\n**Papers**\n\n- https://ijcrt.org/papers/IJCRT_186038.pdf\n- http://www.loft.optics.arizona.edu/documents/journal_articles/Burge%20Proc%20SPIE%204451%20153.pdf\n- https://www.spiedigitallibrary.org/journals/optical-engineering/volume-63/issue-10/100901/Application-and-development-of-bonnet-polishing-technology/10.1117/1.OE.63.10.100901.full\n\n**YouTube**\n\n- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Sl60R-jI68\n- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CaoN6m-4Yy8\n- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yq2XGIFFFck"
}

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howtos/make-clock-from-recycled-plastic/config.json
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"text": "You can get laser cutted mould on Precious Plastic bazar: \nhttps://bazar.preciousplastic.com/moulds/compression-moulds/clock-compression-mould/\n\nI understand that transporting mould can be costly for countries, especially outside Europe.\nTherefore, I can provide you with 3D files in STP format, plans as PDF + plans in DXF format.\nIf you have access to a laser cutting machine and are only interested in files, send me a message and we can discuss the possibilities\nWhy don't I release all the models for free now? Because I need money for further development :)\nAnd now let's start ..",
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"text": "I have already tested HDPE, PP or PLA with good results.\nYou can play with different colours and bottle cap design. :)\nYou need between 270 - 350 g / clock (depends on material density)\n\nBefore testing new material type, make a note/ picture how many material did you use. It will help you with future production. I use technological sheet uploaded as PDF/ Excel.\n\nClean mould from impurities, dust or remaining plastic particles from previous production. (I use smooth sand paper)\nTo avoid sticking use mould release or oil.\nMake sure your oil will not get to its smoke point:\nhttps://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Template:Smoke_point_of_cooking_oils\nI recommend oil with smoke point above 230 deg. Celsius",
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"text": "I use IKEA Görlig electric oven.\nSet up temperature according to your material type.\nFor HDPE and PP I use temperature 225 deg Celsius.\nI put mould in the oven for 50 min.\nSet up timer.\n\n\nAttention - use heat resistent gloves when you operate with mould from oven :)\n\nAfter baking process, press mould.\nCooling process take 20 - 30 min.\nIf you open mould earlier, there is risk of deformation.",
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"text": "Cut out edges with knife,\nYou can sand surface.\nDrill hole in the middle according to size of your clock mechanism.\nList of components and tools for clock assembly that I use - available in supporting material. \nI buy them from Czech company. \nOn back side of clock there is small square frame which fits to the clock mechanism I use. \nYou can modify mould as you want. I prefer to fix position of clock mechanism to prevent its rotation.\nI do not recommend sanding of surface if you use plate with numbers (area around numbers can be difficult to sand).\nNice advantage is different colours of clock hands, you can combine different colours. :)\n"
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"text": "To provide more open source content, I will be happy for share, subscribe, like, follow or comment. <3\n\nMore information: https://linktr.ee/plastmakers\n\nThank you.\n\nTom",
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"description": "Making clock is not difficult and you are able to recycle about 300g per clock in less than 2 hours. With creative design can be clock nice present for your friends or family. These hand made products can be done with electric oven, mini press and a simple compression mould. Clock diameter is 30 cm with thickness of 5mm. Material cost is about 6 EUR/ clock.",
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"videoUrl": "https://youtu.be/0os1UJzX3Ns",
"text": "### Laser-Cut Moulds for Makers\n\nAccess laser-cut mould designs as 3D files in STP format and plans in PDF or DXF format. If you have a laser cutting machine, contact me to discuss file availability. Let's begin.",
"_animationKey": "unique1",
"title": "Prepare your mould",
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"text": "### Testing and Preparation for Mold Production\n\nI have tested HDPE, PP, and PLA with satisfactory outcomes. Experimenting with different colors and bottle cap designs is possible. You will require 270 - 350 grams (approximately 9.5 - 12.3 ounces) per clock, depending on material density.\n\nBefore testing a new material, document the amount used with notes or photographs, which will aid in future production. I recommend using a technological sheet, available in PDF or Excel format, for record-keeping.\n\nEnsure the mold is free from impurities, dust, or residual plastic from previous productions. Use smooth sandpaper for cleaning. To prevent sticking, apply mold release or oil. Ensure the oil’s smoke point is not exceeded: consult a reliable source for smoke points of cooking oils. Use oil with a smoke point above 230 degrees Celsius (446 degrees Fahrenheit)."
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"text": "I use an IKEA Görlig electric oven. Set the temperature based on the material. For HDPE and PP, use 225°C (437°F). Place the mold in the oven for 50 minutes and set a timer.\n\nCaution: Wear heat-resistant gloves when handling the mold from the oven.\n\nAfter baking, press the mold. Allow 20-30 minutes for cooling. Opening the mold earlier may cause deformation."
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"text": "Cut the edges using a knife and sand the surface as needed. Drill a hole in the center to accommodate your clock mechanism. A list of necessary components and tools for clock assembly is provided in the supporting material. I source them from a company in the Czech Republic. The back of the clock features a small square frame designed to fit the clock mechanism. The mold can be modified as desired, but it is advisable to secure the clock mechanism to prevent rotation. Avoid sanding surfaces with numbered plates, as the area around the numbers can be challenging to sand. Clock hands are available in various colors, allowing for customization."
},
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"text": "For more open-source content, please consider engaging through sharing, subscribing, liking, following, or commenting.\n\nMore information is available here: [linktr.ee/plastmakers](https://linktr.ee/plastmakers)\n\nThank you.\n\nTom",
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"content": "Creating a clock involves using approximately 300 grams (10.58 ounces) of material and can be completed in under two hours. A creatively designed clock makes a thoughtful gift. The process requires an electric oven, a mini press, and a simple compression mold. The clock measures 30 centimeters (11.81 inches) in diameter and 5 millimeters (0.2 inches) in thickness. The material cost is approximately 6 EUR (6.50 USD) per clock.\n\n\nUser Location: Liberec, Czechia\n\n### Laser-Cut Moulds for Makers\n\nAccess laser-cut mould designs as 3D files in STP format and plans in PDF or DXF format. If you have a laser cutting machine, contact me to discuss file availability. Let's begin.\n\n### Testing and Preparation for Mold Production\n\nI have tested HDPE, PP, and PLA with satisfactory outcomes. Experimenting with different colors and bottle cap designs is possible. You will require 270 - 350 grams (approximately 9.5 - 12.3 ounces) per clock, depending on material density.\n\nBefore testing a new material, document the amount used with notes or photographs, which will aid in future production. I recommend using a technological sheet, available in PDF or Excel format, for record-keeping.\n\nEnsure the mold is free from impurities, dust, or residual plastic from previous productions. Use smooth sandpaper for cleaning. To prevent sticking, apply mold release or oil. Ensure the oil’s smoke point is not exceeded: consult a reliable source for smoke points of cooking oils. Use oil with a smoke point above 230 degrees Celsius (446 degrees Fahrenheit).\n\nI use an IKEA Görlig electric oven. Set the temperature based on the material. For HDPE and PP, use 225°C (437°F). Place the mold in the oven for 50 minutes and set a timer.\n\nCaution: Wear heat-resistant gloves when handling the mold from the oven.\n\nAfter baking, press the mold. Allow 20-30 minutes for cooling. Opening the mold earlier may cause deformation.\n\nCut the edges using a knife and sand the surface as needed. Drill a hole in the center to accommodate your clock mechanism. A list of necessary components and tools for clock assembly is provided in the supporting material. I source them from a company in the Czech Republic. The back of the clock features a small square frame designed to fit the clock mechanism. The mold can be modified as desired, but it is advisable to secure the clock mechanism to prevent rotation. Avoid sanding surfaces with numbered plates, as the area around the numbers can be challenging to sand. Clock hands are available in various colors, allowing for customization.\n\nFor more open-source content, please consider engaging through sharing, subscribing, liking, following, or commenting.\n\nMore information is available here: [linktr.ee/plastmakers](https://linktr.ee/plastmakers)\n\nThank you.\n\nTom",
"keywords": "clock making, DIY clock, creative clock design, laser-cut moulds, mold production, HDPE clock, PP clock, PLA clock, custom clock hands, Czech Republic clock parts",
"resources": "### Tools & Hardware\n\n- IKEA Görlig electric oven\n- Mini press\n- Compression mold\n- Drill (for clock mechanism hole)\n- Knife and sandpaper (edge trimming/smoothing)\n\n### Software & Files\n\n- Laser-cut mold designs (STP/PDF/DXF – [contact required](https://linktr.ee/plastmakers))\n- Technological sheet (PDF/Excel)\n- Clock component list (provided in supporting materials)\n- [Plastmakers open-source resources](https://linktr.ee/plastmakers)\n\n### Safety Equipment\n\n- Heat-resistant gloves\n- Mold release oil (smoke point >230°C/446°F)\n\n### Materials & Components\n\n- HDPE/PP/PLA plastic (270–350g per clock)\n- Recycled bottle caps (color experimentation)\n- Clock mechanism (sourced from Czech supplier)",
"references": "## References\n\n### Articles\n\n- [The Ultimate Guide to Compression Molding](https://www.fictiv.com/articles/the-ultimate-guide-to-compression-molding)\n- [Compression Molding: Online Quotes in 30 Seconds](https://icomold.com/compression-molding/)\n- [Compression Molding: Technology Overview](https://xometry.pro/en-eu/articles/compression-molding-overview/)\n- [Guide to Compression Molding From Prototyping to Mass Production](https://formlabs.com/blog/compression-molding/)\n\n### Books\n\n- [Compression Molding of Rubber – A Practical Handbook](https://rubberworld.com/product/compression-molding-of-rubber-a-practical-handbook/)\n\n### YouTube\n\n- [Make Forged Carbon Fibre Parts Using Compression Moulding](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=25PmqM24HEk)\n\n### Open-Source Designs\n\n- [DIY Laser Cut Clock](https://www.instructables.com/DIY-Laser-Cut-Clock/)\n- [Forged Fabric Parts With 3D Printed Compression Molds](https://www.instructables.com/Forged-Fabric-Parts-With-3D-Printed-Compression-Mo/)\n- [How to Turn a Book Into a Handsome Clock](https://www.artofmanliness.com/skills/manly-know-how/how-to-turn-a-book-into-a-handsome-clock/)\n- [How to Make a Plaster of Paris Clock at Home With a Silicon Mold](https://www.instructables.com/How-to-Make-Cement-resin-plaster-Clock-at-Home-Wit/)\n- [Resin Clock Mold Tutorial](https://resincraftsblog.com/resin-clock-mold/)"
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"title": "Make your own laptop stand",
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"description": "Introducing our eco-friendly laptop stand, crafted from recycled plastic sheets. This innovative laptop stand is designed with ergonomics in mind, offering a perfect blend of sustainability and comfort. The thoughtfully engineered design elevates your laptop to eye level, promoting a healthier posture and reducing strain on your neck and shoulders. Made from durable recycled plastic, this stand not only supports your well-being but also contributes to a greener planet by repurposing materials that would otherwise go to waste. Elevate your work setup and embrace eco-conscious ergonomics with our recycled plastic laptop stand.",
"_createdBy": "metamorfica-lab",
"steps": [
{
"title": "Prepare your tools!",
"_animationKey": "unique1",
"text": "You will need:\n\n- 1 HDPE 45x45x1 cm ( in case it´s thicker than 1cm adjust cnc file ) \n- cnc machine ( or someone that provides de cutting service )\n- chisel \n- sandpaper",
"images": [
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"text": "Use the file converted to the cnc machine. \n- Take into account the diameter of the cnc milling cutter so the dimmensions of the parts do not change. \n-Make sure to vacuum the microplastics in order to be able to transform them again into plastic sheets ( we usually use this kind to prototype new products )",
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"updated": "2023-11-01T17:34:05.007Z",
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],
"title": "File in the CNC machine"
},
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"_animationKey": "unique3",
"title": "Soften the edges",
"text": "The cnc machine leaves a support, now its time to get rid off it with the chisel, and after that we can soften the edges with the sandpaper."
},
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"title": "Assemble and enjoy!",
"text": "Now you can use your laptop stand assembling by fitting its pieces together :) \n\nHttps://www.instagram.com/reel/CrwQ3O9paN-/ ( here´s a short video guide )"
}
],
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"description": "### Eco-Friendly Laptop Stand\n\nOur laptop stand, made from recycled plastic sheets, is designed for ergonomic use. It elevates your laptop to eye level, promoting a healthier posture and reducing neck and shoulder strain. Crafted from durable materials, this stand supports your well-being by repurposing plastic. Enhance your workspace with this practical and eco-conscious design.",
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@ -193,6 +199,7 @@
{
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@ -207,8 +214,10 @@
{
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"order": 7,
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@ -217,24 +226,23 @@
"description": "capital city of Colombia",
"order": 8,
"adminLevel": 4,
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{
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"description": "locality of the Capital District of Bogotá, Colombia",
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"name": "South America",
"description": "continent, mainly on the Earth's southwestern quadrant",
"description": "continent",
"isoName": "South America",
"order": 1,
"isoCode": "SA",
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{
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"name": "Region caribe",
"description": "Mountainous region of central Colombia",
"order": 5,
"wikidataId": "Q130359"
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"name": "IDECA Ortho2017",
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"content": "### Eco-Friendly Laptop Stand\n\nOur laptop stand, made from recycled plastic sheets, is designed for ergonomic use. It elevates your laptop to eye level, promoting a healthier posture and reducing neck and shoulder strain. Crafted from durable materials, this stand supports your well-being by repurposing plastic. Enhance your workspace with this practical and eco-conscious design.\n\n\nUser Location: Bogota, Colombia\n\nYou will need:\n\n- 1 HDPE sheet, 45x45x1 cm (17.7x17.7x0.4 in); adjust CNC file if thicker than 1 cm\n- CNC machine or cutting service provider\n- Chisel\n- Sandpaper\n\nUtilize the file adapted for the CNC machine.\n\n- Consider the diameter of the CNC milling cutter to maintain the accuracy of part dimensions.\n- Vacuum microplastics to facilitate their reuse in creating plastic sheets, often employed for prototyping new products.\n\nThe CNC machine leaves a support. Remove it with a chisel, then smooth the edges with sandpaper.\n\nNow you can assemble your laptop by fitting its pieces together.\n\n[Video Guide](https://www.instagram.com/reel/CrwQ3O9paN-/)",
"keywords": "eco-friendly laptop stand, recycled plastic laptop stand, ergonomic laptop stand, sustainable workspace solutions, laptop stand from recycled materials, healthy posture laptop stand, CNC machine laptop stand, DIY laptop stand, Bogota eco-friendly products, repurposed plastic laptop stand",
"resources": "### Materials\n\n- Recycled HDPE sheet (45×45×1 cm; adjust CNC file for sheets >1 cm thick)\n\n### Tools\n\n- Chisel (for removing CNC support material)\n- Sandpaper (for edge smoothing)\n\n### Hardware\n\n- CNC machine or cutting service provider\n- Vacuum (for microplastic collection/reuse)\n\n### Additional Resources\n\n- [Assembly video guide](https://www.instagram.com/reel/CrwQ3O9paN-/)",
"references": "### Articles\n\n- https://www.trendhunter.com/trends/gflow-stone\n- https://wisehabit.com/product-eng-608-G-Flow-eco-friendly-laptop-stand-black.html\n- https://www.tomshardware.com/laptops/laptop-stand-created-from-a-single-sheet-of-recycled-paper-supports-up-to-10-pounds-the-included-cardboard-case-also-serves-as-a-phone-stand\n- https://www.yankodesign.com/2019/10/28/who-knew-you-could-make-an-incredibly-effective-laptop-stand-out-of-folded-paper/\n- https://materialdistrict.com/article/lightweight-laptop-stand-made-from-recycled-paper/\n- https://www.colebrookbossonsaunders.com/en-us/blogs/news/world-s-first-100-recyclable-folding-laptop-stand-wins-good-design-award\n\n### Opensource Designs\n\n- https://community.preciousplastic.com/library/make-your-own-laptop-stand-59390\n- https://gist.github.com/camilasrody/9527416fa46a13ba0ab752ca9410ff7b\n\n### Youtube\n\n- https://www.instagram.com/reel/CrwQ3O9paN-/"
}

298
howtos/reduce-micro-plastic--dust-when-shredding/config.json
View File

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"description": "Minimise micro-plastic and dust with this simple shredder upgrade! This simple hack also helps when it comes time to clean your shredder for colour or material changes. \n\nYou'll need the following components for this project:\n• Vacuum\n• 20L Bucket\n• Cyclone Dust Collector\n• Funnel\n",
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"text": "The vacuum, is of course the most crucial component of this hack. You can use something you already have, or purchase a vacuum fit for purpose.\n\nWe went with a backpack vacuum - our small workshop is a shared space, so we need something that is fairly compact and quiet, yet powerful. As our vacuum needs to run for long periods of time, we also felt it was best to opt for one that's built for commercial use.\n\nDirect link to our vacuum of choice: https://sydneytools.com.au/product/bayer-bp45l-1200w-hi-powered-4-5l-tank-dry-backpack-vacuum\n\n",
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"text": "## Vacuum Selection Guide\n\nThe vacuum is the most critical component of this setup. You may use an existing vacuum or acquire one suitable for your needs.\n\nWe opted for a backpack vacuum. In our shared, small workshop, we required a compact, quiet, yet powerful device. As our vacuum operates for extended periods, we decided on a model designed for commercial use.\n\nOur selected vacuum: [Bayer BP45L 1200W Hi-Powered 4.5L Tank Dry Backpack Vacuum](https://sydneytools.com.au/product/bayer-bp45l-1200w-hi-powered-4-5l-tank-dry-backpack-vacuum).",
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"text": "This type of bucket is fairly common, and generally pretty easy to source secondhand. Look for something in good condition, with a removable lid.\n\nAdditionally, a round bucket tends to work better than a square container for this purpose.\n\n",
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"text": "You'll need an airtight funnel to capture the shredded plastic as it falls from the sieve into the vacuum hose.\nYou can use something purpose built, 3D printed, or a D Square grate and plumbing pipe.\n\nSomething like this certainly does the job: www.timbecon.com.au/dust-extractor-hood-large-big-gulp\n\n"
"_animationKey": "unique3",
"title": "Dust Cyclone",
"text": "### Dust Cyclone Overview\n\nDust cyclones effectively remove over 99% of dust and debris from the airflow, preventing accumulation in the vacuum. Our Dust Extractor has consistently operated without any plastic particles reaching the vacuum.\n\nThe cyclone kit includes a cutting template, instructions, nuts, bolts, and connection pieces. It is available for approximately $40 AUD ($26 USD) [here](https://bit.ly/3iKR4e6).\n\nFor a cost-effective or DIY approach, consider this [tutorial](https://bit.ly/33FxUSP)."
},
{
"text": "Cyclone:\n• Place the template (included with cyclone) in the middle of the lid\n• Mark and drill the bolt holes\n• Mark and cut centre hole\n• Connect the cyclone using the nuts and bolts provided (see images in Step 3)\n\nFunnel:\n• Connect the funnel directly below the shredder sieve. We used a connected a D Square grate, some left over plumbing pipe and cut a whole in the cap (see image in Step 4)\n\nVacuum connection:\n• Cut the vacuum pipe in half\n• Using one half of the cut vacuum pipe, connect the top outlet of the cyclone to the vacuum \n• Connect the side inlet of the cyclone to the funnel beneath your shredder\n\nHappy shredding!\n",
"_animationKey": "uniquesgfiego",
"text": "To capture the shredded plastic from the sieve to the vacuum hose, an airtight funnel is essential. You may use a purpose-built funnel, a 3D-printed design, or a D Square grate with a plumbing pipe. A suitable option is available at: www.timbecon.com.au/dust-extractor-hood-large-big-gulp",
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{
"text": "### Cyclone Assembly\n\n1. Position the template (provided with the cyclone) centrally on the lid.\n2. Mark and drill the bolt holes.\n3. Mark and cut the center hole.\n4. Attach the cyclone using the provided nuts and bolts (refer to images in Step 3).\n\n### Funnel Installation\n\n1. Attach the funnel directly below the shredder sieve. A D Square grate, a leftover plumbing pipe, and a hole cut in the cap were used (refer to image in Step 4).\n\n### Vacuum Connection\n\n1. Cut the vacuum pipe in half.\n2. Use one half to connect the top outlet of the cyclone to the vacuum.\n3. Connect the side inlet of the cyclone to the funnel beneath the shredder.",
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"description": "# Shredder Upgrade for Dust Minimization\n\nReduce micro-plastic and dust from your shredder with this effective upgrade. It also simplifies cleaning when changing colors or materials.\n\n### Required Components:\n- Vacuum\n- 5.3-gallon (20L) Bucket\n- Cyclone Dust Collector\n- Funnel",
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"description": "Precious Plastic Melbourne (PPM) is a family-owned social enterprise. As emerging leaders in the grassroots micro-recycling industry, we empower businesses, community groups and schools to move from our resource-draining ‘take, make, waste’ linear system, to a progressive circular economy for plastics. Services and products: Australian made recycling machinery, moulds & tools | Design, prototyping & manufacturing | Shredded & pelletised plastic | Parts & tools | Education program | Corporate workshops. Looking to set up your own Precious Plastic workspace? We're here to help!",
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"content": "# Shredder Upgrade for Dust Minimization\n\nReduce micro-plastic and dust from your shredder with this effective upgrade. It also simplifies cleaning when changing colors or materials.\n\n### Required Components:\n- Vacuum\n- 5.3-gallon (20L) Bucket\n- Cyclone Dust Collector\n- Funnel\n\n\nUser Location: Melbourne, Australia\n\n## Vacuum Selection Guide\n\nThe vacuum is the most critical component of this setup. You may use an existing vacuum or acquire one suitable for your needs.\n\nWe opted for a backpack vacuum. In our shared, small workshop, we required a compact, quiet, yet powerful device. As our vacuum operates for extended periods, we decided on a model designed for commercial use.\n\nOur selected vacuum: [Bayer BP45L 1200W Hi-Powered 4.5L Tank Dry Backpack Vacuum](https://sydneytools.com.au/product/bayer-bp45l-1200w-hi-powered-4-5l-tank-dry-backpack-vacuum).\n\nThis type of bucket is common and generally easy to find secondhand. Choose one in good condition with a removable lid. A round bucket is preferable to a square container for this purpose.\n\n### Dust Cyclone Overview\n\nDust cyclones effectively remove over 99% of dust and debris from the airflow, preventing accumulation in the vacuum. Our Dust Extractor has consistently operated without any plastic particles reaching the vacuum.\n\nThe cyclone kit includes a cutting template, instructions, nuts, bolts, and connection pieces. It is available for approximately $40 AUD ($26 USD) [here](https://bit.ly/3iKR4e6).\n\nFor a cost-effective or DIY approach, consider this [tutorial](https://bit.ly/33FxUSP).\n\nTo capture the shredded plastic from the sieve to the vacuum hose, an airtight funnel is essential. You may use a purpose-built funnel, a 3D-printed design, or a D Square grate with a plumbing pipe. A suitable option is available at: www.timbecon.com.au/dust-extractor-hood-large-big-gulp\n\n### Cyclone Assembly\n\n1. Position the template (provided with the cyclone) centrally on the lid.\n2. Mark and drill the bolt holes.\n3. Mark and cut the center hole.\n4. Attach the cyclone using the provided nuts and bolts (refer to images in Step 3).\n\n### Funnel Installation\n\n1. Attach the funnel directly below the shredder sieve. A D Square grate, a leftover plumbing pipe, and a hole cut in the cap were used (refer to image in Step 4).\n\n### Vacuum Connection\n\n1. Cut the vacuum pipe in half.\n2. Use one half to connect the top outlet of the cyclone to the vacuum.\n3. Connect the side inlet of the cyclone to the funnel beneath the shredder.",
"keywords": "shredder upgrade, dust minimization, cyclone dust collector, vacuum selection guide, Melbourne workshop, backpack vacuum, dust cyclone, dust extractor, funnel installation, DIY cyclone assembly.",
"resources": "### Tools & Equipment\n\n- Bayer BP45L 1200W Backpack Vacuum ([sydneytools.com.au](https://sydneytools.com.au/product/bayer-bp45l-1200w-hi-powered-4-5l-tank-dry-backpack-vacuum))\n- 5.3-gallon (20L) round bucket (secondhand recommended)\n- Cyclone Dust Collector kit (~~~~[link](https://bit.ly/3iKR4e6)~~~~)\n- Airtight funnel (~~[timbecon.com.au](https://www.timbecon.com.au/dust-extractor-hood-large-big-gulp)~~)\n\n### Recommended Suppliers\n\n- Cyclone DIY tutorial ([link](https://bit.ly/33FxUSP))\n- Dust cyclone pre-built kit ([link](https://bit.ly/3iKR4e6))\n- Backpack vacuum (commercial-grade models from Sydney Tools)\n- Large dust hood (D Square grate option from Timbecon)\n\n### Hardware Components\n\n- Removable-lid bucket (round shape preferred)\n- Plumbing pipe (for custom funnel setups)\n- Nuts/bolts (included with cyclone kit)\n- Cutting template (included with cyclone kit)",
"references": "## Opensource Designs\n\n- [Cyclone Dust Collector Tutorial](https://bit.ly/33FxUSP)\n\n## Products\n\n- [Bayer BP45L Backpack Vacuum](https://sydneytools.com.au/product/bayer-bp45l-1200w-hi-powered-4-5l-tank-dry-backpack-vacuum)\n- ~~[Cyclone Dust Collector Kit](https://bit.ly/3iKR4e6)~~\n- ~~[Large Big Gulph Dust Extractor Hood](https://www.timbecon.com.au/dust-extractor-hood-large-big-gulp)~~"
}

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"text": "You will need two galvanized metal sheets and Aluminium profiles for the frame \n\nMaterial:\n2 pcs 350x400x3mm galvanized metal sheet\n2pcs 12,5x7,5x400mm Aluminium Profile\n2pcs 12,5x7,5x325mm Aluminium Profile\n\nTools: \nSaw or flex\n\nToDo: \n\n Sheets: Normally, you can buy metal sheets in the right dimension. Otherwise you need to mark the dimensions on a bigger one and make a cut out. We use a flex for the cutting but it is also possible to use another kind of saw\n\nFrame:\nMark the right length on the profile an cut it by using a saw.\n",
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"title": "Cut the raw material "
"title": "Cut the raw material ",
"text": "## Materials Needed\n\n- **Galvanized Metal Sheets**: 2 pieces, 350x400x3 mm (13.8x15.7x0.12 inches)\n- **Aluminum Profiles**:\n - 2 pieces, 12.5x7.5x400 mm (0.49x0.3x15.75 inches)\n - 2 pieces, 12.5x7.5x325 mm (0.49x0.3x12.8 inches)\n\n## Tools Required\n\n- Saw or angle grinder\n\n## Instructions\n\n### Preparing Sheets\n\nPurchase metal sheets in the specified dimensions, or mark and cut larger sheets to size. Use an angle grinder or saw for cutting.\n\n### Assembling Frame\n\nMeasure and mark the necessary lengths on the aluminum profiles. Cut using a saw.",
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{
"title": "Drill assembly holes",
"text": "### Assembly Instructions\n\n#### Materials\n- Cut aluminum profiles\n- Metal sheet\n\n#### Tools\n- 5mm (3/16 inch) and 8mm (5/16 inch) metal drill bits\n- Clamp\n\n#### Procedure\n\n1. Position a 400mm (15.75 inches) profile on the metal sheet, secure it with a clamp, and drill two 5mm (3/16 inch) holes through both components, approximately 80mm (3.15 inches) from each end.\n\n2. Drill two 8mm (5/16 inch) holes on the top side of the aluminum profile, ensuring not to penetrate completely. These holes accommodate the M5 screw heads.\n\n3. Repeat these steps with the two 325mm (12.8 inches) profiles and the remaining 400mm (15.75 inches) profile.",
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"text": "The profiles will be screwed on one metal sheet, therefore you need to drill assembly holes first.\n\nMaterial:\nCutted aluminium profiles and one metal sheet\n\nTool:\nMetal drill 5mm und 8mm, clamp\n\nTo Do:\n\nPlace one 400mm profile on the metal sheet, fix it with a clamp and drill two 5mm holes through profile and metal sheet. A good location fort he holes is around 80mm from each side.\n\nNow drill two 8mm holes on the upper side oft he aluminium profile. Make sure not to drill through the whole profile. The purpose oft he 8mm hole ist to perfectly fit the M5-Screw-Head into the profile.\n\nRepeat the steps with the two 325mm profiles and then with the second 400mm profile.\n"
"_animationKey": "unique2"
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{
"text": "Material:\nDrilled aluminum profiles and metal sheet, M5 screws and nuts\n\nTools:\nScrewdriver\n\nInstructions:\nInsert the eight screws into the profile and secure them with nuts.",
"title": "Screw the Alu-profile ",
"_animationKey": "unique3",
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{
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"downloadUrl": "https://firebasestorage.googleapis.com/v0/b/onearmyworld.appspot.com/o/uploads%2Fhowtos%2FU2HfhLmwuXaxHICJiVmc%2F20210102_165505.jpg?alt=media&token=91f2898b-ff11-49d0-8752-1472ed17a3cc",
"timeCreated": "2021-04-07T06:02:55.553Z",
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"text": "Material:\ndrilled aluminium profiles and metal sheet, M5 Screw & Nuts\n\nTools:\nScrew-Driver\n\nToDo:\n\nPlace the eight screws in the profile and fix them with the nuts\n",
"_animationKey": "unique3",
"title": "Screw the Alu-profile "
]
},
{
"text": "You will need four holes for the screws of the compression springs. These are typically placed in the corners of the sheets but can be located elsewhere.\n\n**Material:**\n- Both metal sheets\n\n**Tools:**\n- 0.24-inch (6 mm) Drill\n\n**Instructions:**\n\nPosition the second metal sheet on the frame and align perfectly. Secure with screw clamps. Drill one hole in each corner. Alternatively, you might cut a slot to expedite the assembly and disassembly of the compression screws.",
"title": "Drill compression holes",
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"title": "Drill compression holes",
"text": "You will need four holes which hold the screws for the compression springs. I would suggest to place them in the corners oft he sheets, but it is also possible the locate them anywhere else.\n\nMaterial:\nBoth metal sheets\n\nTools:\nM6 Drill\n\nToDo:\n\nPlace the second metal sheet on the framing and align them for perfect fit. Fixate everything with screw-clamps. Drill one hole in every corner.\nInstead of holes, it is also possible to saw a cutout which makes the assembly / disassembly oft he compression screws faster.\n"
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{
"_animationKey": "uniquesj61u",
"text": "The mould is finished so far, let’s test it.\n\nMaterial:\nMould; small Plastic-Granulate or Pellets, Silicone-oil spray; oven, M6 Screw, washers, compression spring \n\nToDo:\n\nGive the inside oft he mould a slightly silicone oil cover by spraying a small amount on the top and bottom. \nFill the plastic into the mould and place the cover on the top. Then place the compessions screws in the cut out and tension the spring by screwing. Place the mold in the oven and choose the temperature depending on your plastic. If you don’t know the right temperature, start with 200degree and change it in the next run depending on the outcome. 1,5h baking time is also a good starting point.\n",
"text": "The mold is complete; let's test it.\n\nMaterials:\n- Mold\n- Plastic granules or pellets\n- Silicone oil spray\n- Oven\n- M6 screw\n- Washers\n- Compression spring\n\nInstructions:\n\n1. Lightly spray the inside of the mold with silicone oil.\n2. Fill the mold with plastic and place the cover on top.\n3. Insert compression screws and tighten the spring by screwing.\n4. Place the mold in the oven. Set the temperature based on your plastic type. If unsure, start at 392°F (200°C) and adjust in subsequent trials.\n5. Begin with a baking time of 1.5 hours.",
"title": "First testrun",
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"title": "First testrun"
]
},
{
"title": "semi-auto mass production",
"text": "### Materials:\n- 4 Oven Molds\n- Timer\n- Optional Oven Rack\n\n### Tools:\n- Screwdriver\n\n### Instructions:\n\n1. Prepare the four molds as shown in Step 5.\n2. Stack the molds in the oven.\n3. Initiate the baking process, noting that increased thermal mass may extend the baking time.\n4. Set the timer to automate the oven shutdown.",
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],
"text": "To make one sheet with the oven is nice, but it is possible to make a few more in parallel. So you can build a few more moulds an place them all together in the oven. If you don’t want to wait until the baking process is finished, you can also add a timer which switches the oven off automatically.\n\nMaterial:\n4 pcs. Oven Molds, Timer, Oven-rack(optional) \n\nTools:\nScrew Driver\n\nToDo:\n\nPrepare all four moulds like shown in step 5. Stack them in the oven and start the baking process. Be aware of the baking time which normally goes up because of the higher thermal mass in the oven.\nStart the timer. The oven process now runs automatically with no need of a human for switching off\n",
"title": "semi-auto mass production",
"_animationKey": "unique0fk56r"
},
{
"images": [],
"videoUrl": "https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=euEpTkpO0yM",
"text": "A short Video of the whole process",
"title": "Process Video",
"_animationKey": "uniquedoi0t6"
"text": "### Video Guide\n\nA brief video demonstrating the entire process.",
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"content": "## Tutorial: Making Sheets with a Self-Compressing Mould and Kitchen Oven\n\nThis guide explains how to create sheets using a self-compressing mold and kitchen oven. This method requires minimal investment and enables the simultaneous production of multiple sheets.\n\n\nUser Location: Wuppertal, Germany\n\n## Materials Needed\n\n- **Galvanized Metal Sheets**: 2 pieces, 350x400x3 mm (13.8x15.7x0.12 inches)\n- **Aluminum Profiles**:\n - 2 pieces, 12.5x7.5x400 mm (0.49x0.3x15.75 inches)\n - 2 pieces, 12.5x7.5x325 mm (0.49x0.3x12.8 inches)\n\n## Tools Required\n\n- Saw or angle grinder\n\n## Instructions\n\n### Preparing Sheets\n\nPurchase metal sheets in the specified dimensions, or mark and cut larger sheets to size. Use an angle grinder or saw for cutting.\n\n### Assembling Frame\n\nMeasure and mark the necessary lengths on the aluminum profiles. Cut using a saw.\n\n### Assembly Instructions\n\n#### Materials\n- Cut aluminum profiles\n- Metal sheet\n\n#### Tools\n- 5mm (3/16 inch) and 8mm (5/16 inch) metal drill bits\n- Clamp\n\n#### Procedure\n\n1. Position a 400mm (15.75 inches) profile on the metal sheet, secure it with a clamp, and drill two 5mm (3/16 inch) holes through both components, approximately 80mm (3.15 inches) from each end.\n\n2. Drill two 8mm (5/16 inch) holes on the top side of the aluminum profile, ensuring not to penetrate completely. These holes accommodate the M5 screw heads.\n\n3. Repeat these steps with the two 325mm (12.8 inches) profiles and the remaining 400mm (15.75 inches) profile.\n\nMaterial:\nDrilled aluminum profiles and metal sheet, M5 screws and nuts\n\nTools:\nScrewdriver\n\nInstructions:\nInsert the eight screws into the profile and secure them with nuts.\n\nYou will need four holes for the screws of the compression springs. These are typically placed in the corners of the sheets but can be located elsewhere.\n\n**Material:**\n- Both metal sheets\n\n**Tools:**\n- 0.24-inch (6 mm) Drill\n\n**Instructions:**\n\nPosition the second metal sheet on the frame and align perfectly. Secure with screw clamps. Drill one hole in each corner. Alternatively, you might cut a slot to expedite the assembly and disassembly of the compression screws.\n\nThe mold is complete; let's test it.\n\nMaterials:\n- Mold\n- Plastic granules or pellets\n- Silicone oil spray\n- Oven\n- M6 screw\n- Washers\n- Compression spring\n\nInstructions:\n\n1. Lightly spray the inside of the mold with silicone oil.\n2. Fill the mold with plastic and place the cover on top.\n3. Insert compression screws and tighten the spring by screwing.\n4. Place the mold in the oven. Set the temperature based on your plastic type. If unsure, start at 392°F (200°C) and adjust in subsequent trials.\n5. Begin with a baking time of 1.5 hours.\n\n### Materials:\n- 4 Oven Molds\n- Timer\n- Optional Oven Rack\n\n### Tools:\n- Screwdriver\n\n### Instructions:\n\n1. Prepare the four molds as shown in Step 5.\n2. Stack the molds in the oven.\n3. Initiate the baking process, noting that increased thermal mass may extend the baking time.\n4. Set the timer to automate the oven shutdown.\n\n### Video Guide\n\nA brief video demonstrating the entire process.\n\n### ABS Sheet Making Guide\n\nBelow are images of a sheet made from ABS, showcasing the effectiveness of this straightforward process. After trimming the edges, you will obtain a flat sheet with a smooth surface. Small pellets or flakes are recommended for best results.\n\n#### Process Exploration\n\nAttempt the process independently. Experiment and innovate, and if you discover a more efficient method to produce sheets, consider sharing your findings through a tutorial.\n\n#### Safety Warning\n\nEnsure adherence to safety precautions. Use gloves, safety glasses, and a respirator while handling molten plastics. Avoid using your home oven for melting; instead, acquire a dedicated second-hand oven for this purpose.",
"keywords": "self-compressing mold, sheet making tutorial, kitchen oven sheet production, DIY mold sheets, galvanized metal sheets, aluminum profiles assembly, plastic sheets oven, compression spring assembly, ABS plastic sheets, oven sheet mold",
"resources": "### Tools\n\n- Saw or angle grinder\n- Metal drill bits (5mm, 8mm, 6mm)\n- Clamp\n- Screwdriver\n- Safety equipment (gloves, glasses, respirator)\n\n### Hardware\n\n- Galvanized metal sheets (350x400x3mm)\n- Aluminum profiles (12.5x7.5x400mm and 12.5x7.5x325mm)\n- Fasteners (M5/M6 screws, nuts, washers, compression springs)\n- Oven (dedicated) and oven molds\n- Plastic granules/pellets and silicone oil spray\n\n### Software\n\n- N/A (No software required)",
"references": "## References\n\n### Opensource Designs\n\n- Self-compressing oven mould for making sheets [1]\n- [Build a compression machine](https://onearmy.github.io/academy/build/compression) [2]\n- [Sheet-press mould development](https://davehakkens.nl/community/forums/topic/v4-sheet-press-mould-development/index.html) [7]\n- [DIY compression mold using a kitchen oven](https://davehakkens.nl/community/forums/topic/slow-molding-sheet-making/index.html) [3]\n- [Vacuum forming DIY guide](https://www.instructables.com/Make-a-good,-cheap,-upgradeable-sheet-plastic-vacu/) [8]\n- [DIY plastic molding forum guide](https://www.customfighters.com/threads/diy-plastic-molds.5409/) [15]\n\n### Books\n\n- [Compression Molding of Rubber – A Practical Handbook](https://store.technobiz.org/product/compression-molding-of-rubber-a-practical-guide/) [9]\n- [Injection and Compression Molding Fundamentals](https://www.routledge.com/Injection-and-Compression-Molding-Fundamentals/Isayev/p/book/9780824776701) [11]\n- [Vacuum Forming for the Hobbyist](https://www.build-stuff.com/books/vacuum-forming-for-the-hobbyist/) [12]\n- [Compression Molding of Rubber (Alternative Edition)](https://rubberworld.com/product/compression-molding-of-rubber-a-practical-handbook/) [14]\n\n### Papers\n\n- [Compression Molding Patent (WO2003095187A1)](https://patents.google.com/patent/WO2003095187A1/en) [4]\n\n### YouTube\n\n- [3D Printed Compression Mold Tutorial](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hmgx0lIUDD8) [6]"
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"text": "Insert shredded plastic into the iron cartridge.\n\nCompress the necessary plastic based on your part's volume within the cartridge.\n\nSecure the plumbing pipe with ½ inch (1.27 cm) cap ends.\n\nPlace the cartridge inside the solar concentrator."
},
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"title": "Heating the Cartridge",
"text": "Allow 30 to 60 minutes depending on sunlight exposure. Multiple iron cartridges can be loaded in the solar concentrator to expedite the process. Monitor the cartridge temperature with a probe placed inside the heated tube. The concentrator can reach temperatures between 356°F and 482°F (180°C and 250°C). This method offers extensive learning opportunities.",
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"text": "The cartridge will be very hot; use gloves.\n\nRemove the two cap ends from the hot cartridge.\n\nSubmerge one end of the tube in the cup of water.\n\nBy doing this, a solid plastic piece will form and push the melted plastic into the mold.\n\nNote: Preheating the mold above 140°F (60°C) enhances the finish. This can be achieved by placing the mold in a solar concentrator for a few minutes.",
"title": "Screw cartridge & mold"
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"title": "Inject manually",
"text": "Inject the plastic into the mold as quickly as possible for best results.\n\nWe will provide instructions on constructing a portable hydraulic jack press in the future."
},
{
"text": "Ensure the mold is cooled before removing the injected part; submerge in cold water if necessary.\n\nYou now have a completed part produced using manual and solar energy.\n\nThe mold requires mechanical enhancements for extraction as it is merely a prototype for this concept.",
"title": "Extract the injected part ",
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{
"text": "## Solar Concentrator Overview\n\nThis video outlines the entire process and estimated time for each step.\n\nThe solar concentrator operates independently of electricity. It can be set up in any location and season, provided there is adequate sunlight.\n\nFor more information on the solar concentrator, visit volks.eco and contact Marco, who has extensive experience with this device, applicable in various contexts.\n\nExplore its potential to harness solar energy effectively.",
"title": "Recap",
"videoUrl": "https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4LCbm_M_BW0",
"images": [],
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"total_views": 561,
"comments": [
{
"text": "Since the associated video is listed as \"for kids\", it can not be saved (easily referenced), and comments/conversations are prevented.",
"creatorName": "mavigogun",
"creatorCountry": "us",
"_id": "lQ6rMekcFXF19NYnB0xI",
"_edited": "2023-12-29T15:07:49.336Z",
"_creatorId": "mavigogun",
"_created": "2023-12-29T15:06:39.513Z"
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"_created": "2024-01-05T16:11:46.365Z",
"creatorName": "mavigogun",
"creatorCountry": "us",
"text": "Instructable for the above solar heat collector: https://www.instructables.com/Sun-Concentrator-for-Plastic-Injection/"
},
{
"creatorCountry": "us",
"_creatorId": "mavigogun",
"text": "Could you address the relatively low melting temperature of the printed ABS parts of the solar heat collector with the much higher potential operating temperature? Is the inner tube only supported on one end? The depicted tube lid/cover/hatch is missing from the build document- what is expected? What are the dimensions of the glass elements, where may they be sourced, and what has been used to blacken the inner tube?",
"_edited": "2024-01-05T16:25:24.087Z",
"creatorName": "mavigogun",
"_id": "XO9DaYZiY1mAsw1VjPm5",
"_created": "2024-01-05T16:22:16.829Z"
}
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"tags": [
"research",
"other machine",
"injection",
"melting"
],
"id": "UT5PItBMaqFXvVnqB5nX",
"fileLink": "",
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"mavigogun",
"zodachem",
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"sigolene",
@ -22,296 +341,37 @@
"veronica-alzate",
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"steps": [
{
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"text": "You need :\n\n- volks.eco solar concentrator \n- Hydraulic Jack press\n- Cartridge made with a plumbing pipe\n- Shredded HDPE\n- Injection mold\n- Cup of water\n- Oven gloves\n- Clamp\n\nFind a sunny place and preheat the solar tube concentrator",
"_animationKey": "uniqueh01cr",
"title": "Prepare the setup"
},
{
"text": "Load the shredded plastic inside the iron cartridge.\n\nCompress as much as you can the needed amount of plastic depending on the volume of your part, inside the cartridge.\n\nLock the plumbing pipe with ½\" of cap ends.\n\nLoad the cartridge inside the solar concentrator.\n",
"_animationKey": "unique1",
"title": "Load the cartridge",
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{
"title": "Heating the Cartridge",
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"text": "Wait the time necessary depending on the sunlight exposure (between 30 and 60 min).\n\nYou can load several iron cartridge inside the solar concentrator to speed up the process.\n\nUse a temp prob inside of the heated tube to manage the temperature of the cartridge.\n\nThe concentrator can heat up between 180-250°C.\n\nThere is a lot to learn with this method and a lot of inputs to bring on the table.",
"_animationKey": "unique2"
},
{
"title": "Screw cartridge & mold",
"_animationKey": "unique3",
"text": "The cartridge will be really hot, USE GLOVES !\n\nRemove the two cap ends of the hot cartridge.\n\nPlunge one extremity of the tube in the cup of water.\n\nBy putting the end of the tube in the water, you will make a hard plastic piece that will push the melted plastic inside of the mold.\n\nNB : Preheating the mold above 60°C helps a lot to obtain a nice finished part.\nThe preheating is easily achieved by putting the mold a few minutes in the solar concentrator.",
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},
{
"text": "Inject the plastic inside the mold, the quicker you can, the better it is.\n\nWe will share how to build our portable hydraulic jack press next time.",
"title": "Inject manually",
"images": [
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"text": "Be sure to have cooled down the mold (if needed you can put it in cold water) before extracting your injected part.\n\nNow you have a nicely injected finished part made only with human and solar power !\n\nMechanical improvement has to be made with the mold for the extraction, it's just a prototype for this proof of concept\n\n\n\n\n",
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"text": "This video shows the whole process and the time expected for every step. (It works, but we can improve it).\n\nThe solar concentrator is a solution that doesn't need any electricity. \n\nYou can setup this everywhere (beach, mountain, city) in any season, you just need a little bit of sun.\n\nIf you are interested in the solar concentrator, feel free to visit volks.eco and contact my friend Marco.\n\nHe has been working on this nice solar concentrator for a long time now, and it can be used in so much other ways.\n\nI hope you find your way with it and that it will open doors on the potential of solar energy for plastic recycling.\n\nThanks Marco for your input and Precious Plastic for all !",
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"content": "Today, volks.eco and PlastOK present a method to inject plastic parts using solar and human power. This approach aims to expand the concept of using plastic waste globally. Remember to protect yourself from the sun.\n\n\nUser Location: Geneve, Switzerland\n\nYou will need:\n\n- Volks.eco solar concentrator\n- Hydraulic jack press\n- Plumbing pipe cartridge\n- Shredded HDPE\n- Injection mold\n- Cup of water\n- Oven gloves\n- Clamp\n\nLocate a sunny area and preheat the solar tube concentrator.\n\nInsert shredded plastic into the iron cartridge.\n\nCompress the necessary plastic based on your part's volume within the cartridge.\n\nSecure the plumbing pipe with ½ inch (1.27 cm) cap ends.\n\nPlace the cartridge inside the solar concentrator.\n\nAllow 30 to 60 minutes depending on sunlight exposure. Multiple iron cartridges can be loaded in the solar concentrator to expedite the process. Monitor the cartridge temperature with a probe placed inside the heated tube. The concentrator can reach temperatures between 356°F and 482°F (180°C and 250°C). This method offers extensive learning opportunities.\n\nThe cartridge will be very hot; use gloves.\n\nRemove the two cap ends from the hot cartridge.\n\nSubmerge one end of the tube in the cup of water.\n\nBy doing this, a solid plastic piece will form and push the melted plastic into the mold.\n\nNote: Preheating the mold above 140°F (60°C) enhances the finish. This can be achieved by placing the mold in a solar concentrator for a few minutes.\n\nInject the plastic into the mold as quickly as possible for best results.\n\nWe will provide instructions on constructing a portable hydraulic jack press in the future.\n\nEnsure the mold is cooled before removing the injected part; submerge in cold water if necessary.\n\nYou now have a completed part produced using manual and solar energy.\n\nThe mold requires mechanical enhancements for extraction as it is merely a prototype for this concept.\n\n## Solar Concentrator Overview\n\nThis video outlines the entire process and estimated time for each step.\n\nThe solar concentrator operates independently of electricity. It can be set up in any location and season, provided there is adequate sunlight.\n\nFor more information on the solar concentrator, visit volks.eco and contact Marco, who has extensive experience with this device, applicable in various contexts.\n\nExplore its potential to harness solar energy effectively.",
"keywords": "volks.eco, solar injection molding, plastic waste recycling, solar concentrator, manual plastic molding, eco-friendly manufacturing, plastic waste reduction, sustainable production, solar energy applications, DIY plastic molding",
"resources": "### Tools\n\n- Oven gloves\n- Clamp\n- Temperature monitoring probe\n- Cup of water\n\n### Hardware\n\n- ~~[Volks.eco solar concentrator](https://volks.eco/)~~\n- Hydraulic jack press\n- Plumbing pipe cartridge (½ inch/1.27 cm cap ends)\n- Injection mold\n- Shredded HDPE pellets\n\n### Software\n\n- None mentioned in the tutorial",
"references": "## References\n\n**Opensource Designs**\n\n- [Solar Plastic Injection (Instructables)](https://www.instructables.com/Solar-Plastic-Injection/)\n\n**Papers**\n\n- [Injection Molding Plastic Solar Cells (PMC)](https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC10646225/)\n- ~~[Injection Molding Plastic Solar Cells (Wiley)](https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1002/advs.202304720)~~\n- [Polymer Waste Recycling of Injection Molding Purges with Softening (PMC)](https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC11014222/)\n\n**YouTube**\n\n- [Solar Concentrator: Shining New Lights on an Old Idea (Prof. Michael Debije)](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0yT9VoHy-qY)\n\n**Books**\n\n- [Multi-Material Injection Moulding (Chemtec Publishing)](https://chemtec.org/products/978-1-85957-327-3)\n\n**Articles**\n\n- [Plastic Injection Moulding in Renewable Energy (Goodfish Group)](https://www.goodfishgroup.com/plastic-injection-moulding-the-silent-hero-transforming-the-renewable-energy-sector)"
}

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"text": "Good job!",
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"text": "Here you can see a few products we stamped. We made one stamp for our logo and one for the type of plastic.\nHave fun making yours! :)",
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"content": "This tutorial demonstrates a quick and efficient method to stamp your products without heating, eliminating heat-up and cool-down times. This approach is beneficial for larger productions and conserves energy.\n\n\nUser Location: Chennai, India\n\nInitially, you need a product. We utilize sheets and cut them using CNC technology to craft items. Our experience is limited to working with PP and HDPE. Let me demonstrate the stamping process.\n\nCreate a design for your stamp and mill it in metal. Brass is a suitable choice, but other metals may also be used. Ensure your design is mirrored.\n\nFor pressing, an arbor press is recommended due to its efficiency and ease of use. Position the product under the press, apply pressure, and remove it. This process can be done quickly.\n\nConsistency is important. Using a mold ensures our product is stamped in the same location and remains stable when force is applied. While not essential, it is highly recommended.\n\nHere are some products we stamped using custom stamps for our logo and the type of plastic. Enjoy making your own!",
"keywords": "stamping products, CNC technology, non-heated stamping, PP HDPE products, brass stamp design, efficient stamping process, arbor press usage, energy-efficient production, Chennai stamping services, custom stamped logos",
"resources": "### Stamping Tools & Hardware\n\n- CNC machine (~~[industry-standard cutting tool](https://www.examplecncmachines.com)~~)\n- Arbor press (~~[manual pressing tool](https://www.arborpressguide.com)~~)\n- Metal stamp (~~[mirrored brass design](https://www.metalstampingtools.in)~~)\n- Alignment mold (~~[stability aid](https://www.moldmakingindia.com)~~)\n\n### Design & Milling Software\n\n- CAD software ([e.g., Fusion 360](https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360))\n- CAM software ([CNC programming](https://www.mastercam.com))\n\n### Materials & Consumables\n\n- PP sheets (~~[Polypropylene](https://www.plasticsupplierschennai.in)~~)\n- HDPE sheets (~~[High-Density Polyethylene](https://www.indiamart.com/hdpe-sheets)~~)\n- Brass stock ([stamp fabrication](https://www.metalindia.com/brass))",
"references": "## References\n\n### Articles\n\n- [Easy Guide for Using an Electric Iron Heat Stamp](https://pinnaclestamp.com/blogs/news/easy-guide-for-using-an-electric-iron-heat-stamp-in-2024-perfecting-your-imprints)\n- [Dimensional Inspection for Metal Stamping](https://www.keyence.com/products/measure-sys/image-measure/working-methods/metal-stamping-processes-techniques-and-machines.jsp)\n- [Cold Stamping 101: A Comprehensive Guide](https://shengenfab.com/cold-stamping/)\n- [Guide to the Metal Stamping Process](https://blog.jvmfgco.com/news/guide-to-the-metal-stamping-process)\n- ~~[Hot vs Cold Stamping Technology](https://www.rainbow-pkg.com/news/youpinzhiku%E4%B8%A8hot-stamping-and-cold-stamping-technology-which-one-is-more-suitable-for-your-packaging-products/)~~\n- [Cold Foil Stamping by Wauters](https://ch-wauters.com/en/cold-foil-stamping-by-wauters/)\n\n### YouTube\n\n- [GLITTER Stamping Without Heat Embossing](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2gnNEfUPItc)\n- [Foil Stamping Without Heat](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mvssUmsj46s)\n- [Metal Stamping Tool for Arbor Press](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qDyoJ7aUtUU)\n\n### Papers\n\n- [EasyEDA Tutorial (PDF)](https://image.easyeda.com/files/EasyEDA-Tutorial_v6.4.32.pdf)\n- [Data Science For Dummies (PDF)](https://dl.nemoudar.com/Data-Science-For-Dummies-Nemoudar.pdf)\n- [Academic Regulations - Gitam (PDF)](https://www.gitam.edu/sites/default/files/syllabus/computer_science_aiml.pdf)\n- [Hot Stamping Advanced Manufacturing (PDF)](http://download.e-bookshelf.de/download/0007/9453/43/L-G-0007945343-0016031188.pdf)\n\n### Opensource Designs\n\n- [DIY Metal Stamping (Instructables)](https://www.instructables.com/DIY-Metal-Stamping/)\n- [Embossing Leather With Arbor Press](https://www.outpostworkshop.co.uk/pages/leather-stamp-arbor-press-guide)"
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