diff --git a/howtos/boards-made-from-marine-litter/README.md b/howtos/boards-made-from-marine-litter/README.md
index 1e5905290..434792541 100644
--- a/howtos/boards-made-from-marine-litter/README.md
+++ b/howtos/boards-made-from-marine-litter/README.md
@@ -8,6 +8,7 @@ tags: ["PS","untagged","product","sheetpress","PP","untagged"]
 category: Products
 difficulty: Medium
 time: < 1 week
+keywords: recycled polypropylene, fishing nets recycling, marine litter processing, plastic sheet press, sustainable materials Spain, Vertidos Cero Association, AIMPLAS technology, Mares Circulares initiative, eco-friendly boards, sustainable furniture Spain
 location: Gandia, Spain
 ---
 # Boards made from marine litter
diff --git a/howtos/boards-made-from-marine-litter/config.json b/howtos/boards-made-from-marine-litter/config.json
index b0ed6c4b8..ddd5ae5a3 100644
--- a/howtos/boards-made-from-marine-litter/config.json
+++ b/howtos/boards-made-from-marine-litter/config.json
@@ -383,5 +383,7 @@
       "images": []
     }
   },
-  "content": "Creation and manufacture of boards or panels using recycled polypropylene plastic and fishing nets recovered by fishermen from the coast of Spain.\n\nThis project is developed in collaboration with Vertidos Cero Association and AIMPLAS.\n\n\nUser Location: Gandia, Spain\n\nMares Circulares is a network project initiated in 2018 with a threefold aim: to clean the coasts, protected areas, and seabed of Spain and Portugal.\n\nApproximately 5,200 kilograms (11,464 pounds) of debris, retrieved by volunteer fishermen, were processed by the Instituto Tecnológico de Plástico (AIMPLAS), where technology transformed non-PET plastic into usable material through various methods.\n\nThe processed marine litter and fishing nets arrive in our workshop clean and crushed, ready for use in the heat press.\n\nWe mix it with the base material, polypropylene, ensuring the desired proportions and quantities. This depends on the texture, color, or thickness required.\n\nBefore placing the plastic in the sheet press, we use an industrial dryer to remove moisture.\n\nOnce the material is dry and mixed, it is ready for the sheet press.\n\nOur sheet press is a result of our work, utilizing a modified carpentry press to incorporate a complete heating and automation system.\n\nThis sheet press allows for the production of boards measuring 220 cm (86.61 inches) by 90 cm (35.43 inches), with thicknesses ranging from 1 cm (0.39 inches) to 3 cm (1.18 inches).\n\nThe machine reaches an average temperature of 180° Celsius (356° Fahrenheit) to melt the plastic.\n\nWhen completing any plastic processing, excess material on the edges must be removed.\n\nAfter removing the board from the sheet press, ensure ample storage space to prevent deformation or bending.\n\nThese boards offer the opportunity to create a variety of products, including decorative items and furniture."
+  "content": "Creation and manufacture of boards or panels using recycled polypropylene plastic and fishing nets recovered by fishermen from the coast of Spain.\n\nThis project is developed in collaboration with Vertidos Cero Association and AIMPLAS.\n\n\nUser Location: Gandia, Spain\n\nMares Circulares is a network project initiated in 2018 with a threefold aim: to clean the coasts, protected areas, and seabed of Spain and Portugal.\n\nApproximately 5,200 kilograms (11,464 pounds) of debris, retrieved by volunteer fishermen, were processed by the Instituto Tecnológico de Plástico (AIMPLAS), where technology transformed non-PET plastic into usable material through various methods.\n\nThe processed marine litter and fishing nets arrive in our workshop clean and crushed, ready for use in the heat press.\n\nWe mix it with the base material, polypropylene, ensuring the desired proportions and quantities. This depends on the texture, color, or thickness required.\n\nBefore placing the plastic in the sheet press, we use an industrial dryer to remove moisture.\n\nOnce the material is dry and mixed, it is ready for the sheet press.\n\nOur sheet press is a result of our work, utilizing a modified carpentry press to incorporate a complete heating and automation system.\n\nThis sheet press allows for the production of boards measuring 220 cm (86.61 inches) by 90 cm (35.43 inches), with thicknesses ranging from 1 cm (0.39 inches) to 3 cm (1.18 inches).\n\nThe machine reaches an average temperature of 180° Celsius (356° Fahrenheit) to melt the plastic.\n\nWhen completing any plastic processing, excess material on the edges must be removed.\n\nAfter removing the board from the sheet press, ensure ample storage space to prevent deformation or bending.\n\nThese boards offer the opportunity to create a variety of products, including decorative items and furniture.",
+  "keywords": "recycled polypropylene, fishing nets recycling, marine litter processing, plastic sheet press, sustainable materials Spain, Vertidos Cero Association, AIMPLAS technology, Mares Circulares initiative, eco-friendly boards, sustainable furniture Spain",
+  "resources": "Creation and manufacture of boards or panels using recycled polypropylene plastic and fishing nets recovered by fishermen from the coast of Spain.\n\nThis project is developed in collaboration with Vertidos Cero Association and AIMPLAS.\n\n\nUser Location: Gandia, Spain\n\nMares Circulares is a network project initiated in 2018 with a threefold aim: to clean the coasts, protected areas, and seabed of Spain and Portugal.\n\nApproximately 5,200 kilograms (11,464 pounds) of debris, retrieved by volunteer fishermen, were processed by the Instituto Tecnológico de Plástico (AIMPLAS), where technology transformed non-PET plastic into usable material through various methods.\n\nThe processed marine litter and fishing nets arrive in our workshop clean and crushed, ready for use in the heat press.\n\nWe mix it with the base material, polypropylene, ensuring the desired proportions and quantities. This depends on the texture, color, or thickness required.\n\nBefore placing the plastic in the sheet press, we use an industrial dryer to remove moisture.\n\nOnce the material is dry and mixed, it is ready for the sheet press.\n\nOur sheet press is a result of our work, utilizing a modified carpentry press to incorporate a complete heating and automation system.\n\nThis sheet press allows for the production of boards measuring 220 cm (86.61 inches) by 90 cm (35.43 inches), with thicknesses ranging from 1 cm (0.39 inches) to 3 cm (1.18 inches).\n\nThe machine reaches an average temperature of 180° Celsius (356° Fahrenheit) to melt the plastic.\n\nWhen completing any plastic processing, excess material on the edges must be removed.\n\nAfter removing the board from the sheet press, ensure ample storage space to prevent deformation or bending.\n\nThese boards offer the opportunity to create a variety of products, including decorative items and furniture."
 }
\ No newline at end of file
diff --git a/howtos/collect-more-of-one-plastic-type/README.md b/howtos/collect-more-of-one-plastic-type/README.md
index e715f3a9b..3ea8cffdb 100644
--- a/howtos/collect-more-of-one-plastic-type/README.md
+++ b/howtos/collect-more-of-one-plastic-type/README.md
@@ -8,6 +8,7 @@ tags: ["collection"]
 category: uncategorized
 difficulty: Easy
 time: < 1 hour
+keywords: HDPE2 plastic, local HDPE2 products, Worksop recycling projects, plastic collection tips, HDPE2 project ideas, recycling social media requests, creative plastic projects, HDPE2 art projects, plastic waste reuse, UK plastic recycling
 location: Worksop, United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland (the)
 ---
 # Collect more of one Plastic Type!
diff --git a/howtos/collect-more-of-one-plastic-type/config.json b/howtos/collect-more-of-one-plastic-type/config.json
index 9cd6ede56..d618c2548 100644
--- a/howtos/collect-more-of-one-plastic-type/config.json
+++ b/howtos/collect-more-of-one-plastic-type/config.json
@@ -324,5 +324,7 @@
   "category": {
     "label": "uncategorized"
   },
-  "content": "Seeking to gather a specific type of plastic for a particular project?\n\nDiscover the method we use here.\n\n\nUser Location: Worksop, United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland (the)\n\nIf you intend to embark on a project involving HDPE2, it is advisable to ascertain which locally available products are composed of HDPE2.\n\nFor instance, examples include milk cartons, lids, and breakfast cereal inner bags.\n\nThen, request these items through social media, a local Post Office notice board, or a shop window.\n\nOnce you have completed that project, it's time to embark on a new venture. \n\nConsider working with items like contact lens covers and cases, small pots, or even chocolate and sweet wrappers.\n\nWhile you wait for sufficient materials to arrive for your projects, consider exploring a different perspective. \n\nUtilize plastic for an artwork project to enhance your workspace.\n\nHappy sorting."
+  "content": "Seeking to gather a specific type of plastic for a particular project?\n\nDiscover the method we use here.\n\n\nUser Location: Worksop, United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland (the)\n\nIf you intend to embark on a project involving HDPE2, it is advisable to ascertain which locally available products are composed of HDPE2.\n\nFor instance, examples include milk cartons, lids, and breakfast cereal inner bags.\n\nThen, request these items through social media, a local Post Office notice board, or a shop window.\n\nOnce you have completed that project, it's time to embark on a new venture. \n\nConsider working with items like contact lens covers and cases, small pots, or even chocolate and sweet wrappers.\n\nWhile you wait for sufficient materials to arrive for your projects, consider exploring a different perspective. \n\nUtilize plastic for an artwork project to enhance your workspace.\n\nHappy sorting.",
+  "keywords": "HDPE2 plastic, local HDPE2 products, Worksop recycling projects, plastic collection tips, HDPE2 project ideas, recycling social media requests, creative plastic projects, HDPE2 art projects, plastic waste reuse, UK plastic recycling",
+  "resources": "Seeking to gather a specific type of plastic for a particular project?\n\nDiscover the method we use here.\n\n\nUser Location: Worksop, United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland (the)\n\nIf you intend to embark on a project involving HDPE2, it is advisable to ascertain which locally available products are composed of HDPE2.\n\nFor instance, examples include milk cartons, lids, and breakfast cereal inner bags.\n\nThen, request these items through social media, a local Post Office notice board, or a shop window.\n\nOnce you have completed that project, it's time to embark on a new venture. \n\nConsider working with items like contact lens covers and cases, small pots, or even chocolate and sweet wrappers.\n\nWhile you wait for sufficient materials to arrive for your projects, consider exploring a different perspective. \n\nUtilize plastic for an artwork project to enhance your workspace.\n\nHappy sorting."
 }
\ No newline at end of file
diff --git a/howtos/cut-out-shapes-out-of-plastic-sheets-with-a-cnc-/README.md b/howtos/cut-out-shapes-out-of-plastic-sheets-with-a-cnc-/README.md
index b10709db7..d61231108 100644
--- a/howtos/cut-out-shapes-out-of-plastic-sheets-with-a-cnc-/README.md
+++ b/howtos/cut-out-shapes-out-of-plastic-sheets-with-a-cnc-/README.md
@@ -8,6 +8,7 @@ tags: ["HDPE"]
 category: uncategorized
 difficulty: Medium
 time: < 5 hours
+keywords: HDPE sheets, X-Carve CNC, CAM Software EASEL, CNC milling, vector graphics editor, Inkscape, SVG file, CNC Router, cutting process, Mexico City
 location: Mexico City, Mexico
 ---
 # Cut out shapes out of plastic sheets with a CNC 
diff --git a/howtos/cut-out-shapes-out-of-plastic-sheets-with-a-cnc-/config.json b/howtos/cut-out-shapes-out-of-plastic-sheets-with-a-cnc-/config.json
index b357ecd16..a568c497f 100644
--- a/howtos/cut-out-shapes-out-of-plastic-sheets-with-a-cnc-/config.json
+++ b/howtos/cut-out-shapes-out-of-plastic-sheets-with-a-cnc-/config.json
@@ -337,5 +337,8 @@
   "category": {
     "label": "uncategorized"
   },
-  "content": "In this tutorial, I will guide you through the process of cutting HDPE sheets using an X-Carve CNC.\n\nThis video is available in Spanish with subtitles: [Watch here](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4LrrFz802To).\n\n\nUser Location: Mexico City, Mexico\n\nFor this step, we need to measure our plastic sheet: Height, Width, and Thickness. Our X-Carve machine operates with the CAM Software EASEL, which is user-friendly software for CNC milling.\n\nEasel offers the ability to \"simulate\" your actual material, and even includes HDPE 2-Colors in their cutting material lists.\n\nUtilize the CNC clamps from the X-Carve to securely fasten the sheet to the table.\n\nProceed to use a vector graphics editor like Inkscape to design or obtain a vector file. \n\nDownload the SVG file and import it into Easel.\n\nUpon preparing the file, select the desired width for carving or cutting. Proceed to initiate the cutting process with the following steps:\n\n- Ensure the sheet is securely fixed.\n- Specify the cutting bit; in this case, use a 1/8 inch (3.18 mm) flat flute bit.\n- Set the machine's coordinate origin at the lower-left corner.\n- Raise the bit and activate the CNC Router.\n\nLet the process commence, and witness the craftsmanship unfold!\n\nTake your glasses or object and proceed with post-processing, then present it to friends and family.\n\nYou can attempt this project using various types of CNC machines, including manual routers or saws, as demonstrated in this video: [youtu.be/gxkcffQD3eQ](https://youtu.be/gxkcffQD3eQ). It is important to share your experiences and contribute to the community's development.\n\nShare your ideas and comments!"
+  "content": "In this tutorial, I will guide you through the process of cutting HDPE sheets using an X-Carve CNC.\n\nThis video is available in Spanish with subtitles: [Watch here](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4LrrFz802To).\n\n\nUser Location: Mexico City, Mexico\n\nFor this step, we need to measure our plastic sheet: Height, Width, and Thickness. Our X-Carve machine operates with the CAM Software EASEL, which is user-friendly software for CNC milling.\n\nEasel offers the ability to \"simulate\" your actual material, and even includes HDPE 2-Colors in their cutting material lists.\n\nUtilize the CNC clamps from the X-Carve to securely fasten the sheet to the table.\n\nProceed to use a vector graphics editor like Inkscape to design or obtain a vector file. \n\nDownload the SVG file and import it into Easel.\n\nUpon preparing the file, select the desired width for carving or cutting. Proceed to initiate the cutting process with the following steps:\n\n- Ensure the sheet is securely fixed.\n- Specify the cutting bit; in this case, use a 1/8 inch (3.18 mm) flat flute bit.\n- Set the machine's coordinate origin at the lower-left corner.\n- Raise the bit and activate the CNC Router.\n\nLet the process commence, and witness the craftsmanship unfold!\n\nTake your glasses or object and proceed with post-processing, then present it to friends and family.\n\nYou can attempt this project using various types of CNC machines, including manual routers or saws, as demonstrated in this video: [youtu.be/gxkcffQD3eQ](https://youtu.be/gxkcffQD3eQ). It is important to share your experiences and contribute to the community's development.\n\nShare your ideas and comments!",
+  "keywords": "HDPE sheets, X-Carve CNC, CAM Software EASEL, CNC milling, vector graphics editor, Inkscape, SVG file, CNC Router, cutting process, Mexico City",
+  "resources": "To complete this HDPE cutting project using an X-Carve CNC, here's a concise list of required components:\n\n### Hardware\n- X-Carve CNC machine [Official site](https://www.inventables.com/x-carve)  \n- CNC clamps (included with X-Carve)  \n- 1/8\" (3.18 mm) flat flute cutting bit [X-Carve product](https://www.inventables.com/accessories/precision-cutter-set)  \n- Optional alternatives: Manual routers or saws  \n\n### Software\n- EASEL CAM software [Free download](https://easel.inventables.com)  \n- Vector editor: Inkscape [Open-source tool](https://inkscape.org)  \n\n### Materials\n- HDPE plastic sheet (specify thickness during measurement)  \n- Safety glasses for post-processing  \n\n### Additional Resources\n- Spanish tutorial video [Watch here](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4LrrFz802To)  \n- Alternative manual method demo [Video guide](https://youtu.be/gxkcffQD3eQ)  \n\nAll components are accessible in Mexico City through specialty CNC suppliers or online retailers.",
+  "references": "## References\n\n### YouTube\n- [HDPE Cutting Tutorial (Spanish Subtitles)](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4LrrFz802To)\n- [Alternative CNC Machine Demonstration](https://youtu.be/gxkcffQD3eQ)\n\n### Software\n- [EASEL CAM Software](https://easel.inventables.com/)\n- [Inkscape Vector Editor](https://inkscape.org/)\n\n### Open Source Designs\n- [Thingiverse CNC Projects](https://www.thingiverse.com/)\n- [Instructables CNC Guides](https://www.instructables.com/CNC-Projects/)\n\n### CNC Machines\n- [X-Carve Specifications](https://www.inventables.com/technologies/x-carve)\n- [Shapeoko CNC Routers](https://shapeoko.com/)\n- [Carbide 3D Machines](https://carbide3d.com/)\n\n### Safety & Best Practices\n- [OSHA Machine Guarding Standards](https://www.osha.gov/machine-guarding)\n- [HDPE Material Properties Guide](https://www.curbellplastics.com/Research-Solutions/Material-Properties-Center/HDPE)"
 }
\ No newline at end of file
diff --git a/howtos/cut-out-shapes-out-of-plastic-sheets-with-a-cnc-/references.md b/howtos/cut-out-shapes-out-of-plastic-sheets-with-a-cnc-/references.md
new file mode 100644
index 000000000..50a787e9c
--- /dev/null
+++ b/howtos/cut-out-shapes-out-of-plastic-sheets-with-a-cnc-/references.md
@@ -0,0 +1,22 @@
+## References
+
+### YouTube
+- [HDPE Cutting Tutorial (Spanish Subtitles)](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4LrrFz802To)
+- [Alternative CNC Machine Demonstration](https://youtu.be/gxkcffQD3eQ)
+
+### Software
+- [EASEL CAM Software](https://easel.inventables.com/)
+- [Inkscape Vector Editor](https://inkscape.org/)
+
+### Open Source Designs
+- [Thingiverse CNC Projects](https://www.thingiverse.com/)
+- [Instructables CNC Guides](https://www.instructables.com/CNC-Projects/)
+
+### CNC Machines
+- [X-Carve Specifications](https://www.inventables.com/technologies/x-carve)
+- [Shapeoko CNC Routers](https://shapeoko.com/)
+- [Carbide 3D Machines](https://carbide3d.com/)
+
+### Safety & Best Practices
+- [OSHA Machine Guarding Standards](https://www.osha.gov/machine-guarding)
+- [HDPE Material Properties Guide](https://www.curbellplastics.com/Research-Solutions/Material-Properties-Center/HDPE)
\ No newline at end of file
diff --git a/howtos/cut-out-shapes-out-of-plastic-sheets-with-a-cnc-/resources.md b/howtos/cut-out-shapes-out-of-plastic-sheets-with-a-cnc-/resources.md
new file mode 100644
index 000000000..61dae1598
--- /dev/null
+++ b/howtos/cut-out-shapes-out-of-plastic-sheets-with-a-cnc-/resources.md
@@ -0,0 +1,21 @@
+To complete this HDPE cutting project using an X-Carve CNC, here's a concise list of required components:
+
+### Hardware
+- X-Carve CNC machine [Official site](https://www.inventables.com/x-carve)  
+- CNC clamps (included with X-Carve)  
+- 1/8" (3.18 mm) flat flute cutting bit [X-Carve product](https://www.inventables.com/accessories/precision-cutter-set)  
+- Optional alternatives: Manual routers or saws  
+
+### Software
+- EASEL CAM software [Free download](https://easel.inventables.com)  
+- Vector editor: Inkscape [Open-source tool](https://inkscape.org)  
+
+### Materials
+- HDPE plastic sheet (specify thickness during measurement)  
+- Safety glasses for post-processing  
+
+### Additional Resources
+- Spanish tutorial video [Watch here](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4LrrFz802To)  
+- Alternative manual method demo [Video guide](https://youtu.be/gxkcffQD3eQ)  
+
+All components are accessible in Mexico City through specialty CNC suppliers or online retailers.
\ No newline at end of file
diff --git a/howtos/easily-hands-free-connect-moulds-to-the-injector/README.md b/howtos/easily-hands-free-connect-moulds-to-the-injector/README.md
index c2c969b08..0e9903b6f 100644
--- a/howtos/easily-hands-free-connect-moulds-to-the-injector/README.md
+++ b/howtos/easily-hands-free-connect-moulds-to-the-injector/README.md
@@ -10,6 +10,7 @@ tags: ["hack","product","untagged","injection"]
 category: Guides
 difficulty: Easy
 time: < 1 hour
+keywords: motorcycle stand, injection molding, mold clamping, ergonomic design, DIY platform, woodworking, PlasticPreneur machines, conical injection nozzles, chamfered molds, tufftuff jack
 location: Lancaster, United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland (the)
 ---
 # Easily (hands-free) connect moulds to the injector
diff --git a/howtos/easily-hands-free-connect-moulds-to-the-injector/config.json b/howtos/easily-hands-free-connect-moulds-to-the-injector/config.json
index ce49322f7..1e8491685 100644
--- a/howtos/easily-hands-free-connect-moulds-to-the-injector/config.json
+++ b/howtos/easily-hands-free-connect-moulds-to-the-injector/config.json
@@ -348,5 +348,7 @@
       "images": []
     }
   },
-  "content": "Screw-on molds, clamping beds, and other methods, such as car jacks, require time and manual effort to connect molds to the injector. This method, using a motorcycle stand, provides sufficient travel to clamp the mold against the injector and allows the use of leg power, keeping the hands free. \n\nThis approach also facilitates the lifting of heavier molds or accessories like clamps, potentially reducing the need for bolting the mold for clamping.\n\nThis technique is suitable for conical-style injection nozzles and chamfered-style molds. The machines used in this guide are from PlasticPreneur.\n\n\nUser Location: Lancaster, United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland (the)\n\nAttached is a video explaining the process and the necessary parts.\n\nWe located our first item locally on Facebook Marketplace. Alternatively, you might contact workshops that service bikes, as they may possess older models. The internet also provides a convenient resource, and you can easily find these by searching for terms such as \"motorcycle stand\" or \"dirtbike stand.\"\n\nWe employed four pieces of wood, each measuring 3x2 (7.6 cm x 5.1 cm), at each corner of the flat plate on the stand, finishing with a flat piece of wood on top to create an elevated platform for the molds. This structure could alternatively be constructed from metal and vary in shape if necessary. The space in the center of the pillars is convenient for storing height-adjustment blocks.\n\nYou may find that the existing height suffices, or you can add wooden blocks to achieve the desired elevation when utilizing a floor-based injection molder.\n\nAn alternative design could involve shortening the pillars and adding a tufftuff jack on top. This would eliminate the need for varied thicknesses of wooden blocks based on the mold being used, as the tufftuff jack (with a plate on top) allows adjustment of the overall working height. The bike stand can then provide the additional travel required to interface with the nozzle.\n\nWe found that, initially, this lever is positioned rather high for using it multiple times throughout the day. If seeking a rigorous exercise routine, it may be left as initially configured. However, we preferred a more convenient setup for continual use, and discovered that reversing the arm that integrates with the lever works exceptionally well.\n\nWe drilled an additional hole in the rod extending from the base, as well as corresponding holes in the arm that attaches. This allowed us to insert an M8 bolt (5/16 inch) to securely fasten it in place. The supplementary bolt behind the arm prevents it from pivoting excessively, ensuring a stable footing.\n\nYou might consider designing an alternative system that enhances ergonomic functionality or visual appeal. Feel free to innovate!\n\nPlease view the video for a clearer explanation."
+  "content": "Screw-on molds, clamping beds, and other methods, such as car jacks, require time and manual effort to connect molds to the injector. This method, using a motorcycle stand, provides sufficient travel to clamp the mold against the injector and allows the use of leg power, keeping the hands free. \n\nThis approach also facilitates the lifting of heavier molds or accessories like clamps, potentially reducing the need for bolting the mold for clamping.\n\nThis technique is suitable for conical-style injection nozzles and chamfered-style molds. The machines used in this guide are from PlasticPreneur.\n\n\nUser Location: Lancaster, United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland (the)\n\nAttached is a video explaining the process and the necessary parts.\n\nWe located our first item locally on Facebook Marketplace. Alternatively, you might contact workshops that service bikes, as they may possess older models. The internet also provides a convenient resource, and you can easily find these by searching for terms such as \"motorcycle stand\" or \"dirtbike stand.\"\n\nWe employed four pieces of wood, each measuring 3x2 (7.6 cm x 5.1 cm), at each corner of the flat plate on the stand, finishing with a flat piece of wood on top to create an elevated platform for the molds. This structure could alternatively be constructed from metal and vary in shape if necessary. The space in the center of the pillars is convenient for storing height-adjustment blocks.\n\nYou may find that the existing height suffices, or you can add wooden blocks to achieve the desired elevation when utilizing a floor-based injection molder.\n\nAn alternative design could involve shortening the pillars and adding a tufftuff jack on top. This would eliminate the need for varied thicknesses of wooden blocks based on the mold being used, as the tufftuff jack (with a plate on top) allows adjustment of the overall working height. The bike stand can then provide the additional travel required to interface with the nozzle.\n\nWe found that, initially, this lever is positioned rather high for using it multiple times throughout the day. If seeking a rigorous exercise routine, it may be left as initially configured. However, we preferred a more convenient setup for continual use, and discovered that reversing the arm that integrates with the lever works exceptionally well.\n\nWe drilled an additional hole in the rod extending from the base, as well as corresponding holes in the arm that attaches. This allowed us to insert an M8 bolt (5/16 inch) to securely fasten it in place. The supplementary bolt behind the arm prevents it from pivoting excessively, ensuring a stable footing.\n\nYou might consider designing an alternative system that enhances ergonomic functionality or visual appeal. Feel free to innovate!\n\nPlease view the video for a clearer explanation.",
+  "keywords": "motorcycle stand, injection molding, mold clamping, ergonomic design, DIY platform, woodworking, PlasticPreneur machines, conical injection nozzles, chamfered molds, tufftuff jack",
+  "resources": "Screw-on molds, clamping beds, and other methods, such as car jacks, require time and manual effort to connect molds to the injector. This method, using a motorcycle stand, provides sufficient travel to clamp the mold against the injector and allows the use of leg power, keeping the hands free. \n\nThis approach also facilitates the lifting of heavier molds or accessories like clamps, potentially reducing the need for bolting the mold for clamping.\n\nThis technique is suitable for conical-style injection nozzles and chamfered-style molds. The machines used in this guide are from PlasticPreneur.\n\n\nUser Location: Lancaster, United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland (the)\n\nAttached is a video explaining the process and the necessary parts.\n\nWe located our first item locally on Facebook Marketplace. Alternatively, you might contact workshops that service bikes, as they may possess older models. The internet also provides a convenient resource, and you can easily find these by searching for terms such as \"motorcycle stand\" or \"dirtbike stand.\"\n\nWe employed four pieces of wood, each measuring 3x2 (7.6 cm x 5.1 cm), at each corner of the flat plate on the stand, finishing with a flat piece of wood on top to create an elevated platform for the molds. This structure could alternatively be constructed from metal and vary in shape if necessary. The space in the center of the pillars is convenient for storing height-adjustment blocks.\n\nYou may find that the existing height suffices, or you can add wooden blocks to achieve the desired elevation when utilizing a floor-based injection molder.\n\nAn alternative design could involve shortening the pillars and adding a tufftuff jack on top. This would eliminate the need for varied thicknesses of wooden blocks based on the mold being used, as the tufftuff jack (with a plate on top) allows adjustment of the overall working height. The bike stand can then provide the additional travel required to interface with the nozzle.\n\nWe found that, initially, this lever is positioned rather high for using it multiple times throughout the day. If seeking a rigorous exercise routine, it may be left as initially configured. However, we preferred a more convenient setup for continual use, and discovered that reversing the arm that integrates with the lever works exceptionally well.\n\nWe drilled an additional hole in the rod extending from the base, as well as corresponding holes in the arm that attaches. This allowed us to insert an M8 bolt (5/16 inch) to securely fasten it in place. The supplementary bolt behind the arm prevents it from pivoting excessively, ensuring a stable footing.\n\nYou might consider designing an alternative system that enhances ergonomic functionality or visual appeal. Feel free to innovate!\n\nPlease view the video for a clearer explanation."
 }
\ No newline at end of file
diff --git a/howtos/el-tornillo-motor-injection-machine/README.md b/howtos/el-tornillo-motor-injection-machine/README.md
index af66463b3..3b5599fb3 100644
--- a/howtos/el-tornillo-motor-injection-machine/README.md
+++ b/howtos/el-tornillo-motor-injection-machine/README.md
@@ -6,6 +6,7 @@ tags: ["HDPE","melting","injection","PS","LDPE","PP"]
 category: Machines
 difficulty: Hard
 time: 3-4 weeks
+keywords: motor injection machine, injection molding machine, motor-driven molding machine, plastic injection machine, injection mold compatibility, automated molding system, Colombia manufacturing machine, plastic manufacturing equipment, injection molding motor, high pressure molding machine
 location: Bogota, Colombia
 ---
 # El Tornillo Motor Injection Machine
diff --git a/howtos/el-tornillo-motor-injection-machine/config.json b/howtos/el-tornillo-motor-injection-machine/config.json
index 4e99f4a25..fe8755ce3 100644
--- a/howtos/el-tornillo-motor-injection-machine/config.json
+++ b/howtos/el-tornillo-motor-injection-machine/config.json
@@ -363,5 +363,8 @@
       "urls": []
     }
   },
-  "content": "This injection machine operates with a motor to reduce manual labor and enhance pressure for creating more detailed products.\n\n\nUser Location: Bogota, Colombia\n\n**Machine Design:**\nMotor Injection Machine\n\n**Machine Size:**\nHeight: 195 cm (76.8 in); Width: 50 cm (19.7 in); Depth: 50 cm (19.7 in)\n\n**Machine Cost:**\nIn Colombia, Bill of Material = COP 4,700,000\n\n**Distinguishing Features:**\nThis machine features a motor to apply pressure, as opposed to a manually operated lever typical in older models, representing an enhancement in functionality.\n\n**Compatibility:**\nThis machine is designed for use with injection molds.\n\n**Type of Plastic:**\nPP, HDPE, LDPE, PS\n\nTo build this machine, you will need the following skills:\n\n- Turning (machining on a lathe)\n- Milling (machining on a mill)\n- General metalworking (cutting, drilling)\n- Welding\n- Advanced assembly work (requires specific tools, measurement instruments, and an understanding of tolerances for alignment and assembly)\n- General electrical work (wiring safety switch, temperature controllers, etc.)\n- Motor electrical work (wiring motor, contactor, overload protection, etc.)\n\nWatch this video to learn how to build this machine.\n\n0:00 Introduction\n3:09 Motor Injection Machine Overview\n3:36 Chapter I: Construct the Frame\n7:12 Chapter II: Develop the Mould Area\n8:25 Chapter III: Assemble the Piston System\n14:39 Chapter IV: Install the Heating Barrel\n17:51 Chapter V: Electrical Wiring\n18:56 Chapter VI: Connect the Motor\n20:10 Chapter VII: Final Assembly\n\nHow to Use the Machine\n\n1. Activate the machine and fill the barrel with plastic.\n2. For the initial injection, wait 25 minutes from the time the machine is activated and filled.\n3. Position the mold over the jack surface and firmly press it against the nozzle.\n4. Activate the motor to lower the piston, pushing the molten plastic into the mold until the belt slips on the pulley.\n5. Deactivate the motor and maintain piston pressure for approximately 5 seconds.\n6. Then, reverse the motor to move the piston upward.\n7. For continuous injections, refill the barrel before detaching the mold from the nozzle.\n8. Remove the mold by lowering the jack.\n9. Open the mold and extract the injected part.\n10. Close the mold and repeat the process starting from step 3.\n\nRecommendations\n\nYou will require molds with a conical nozzle connection or an adapter to fit your mold nozzle. The machine generates significant pressure, allowing for the injection of products with very thin walls.\n\nThis is how to make a Motor Injection Machine!\n\nIf reproducing the machine is not feasible for you or if you are interested in purchasing other machines or molds I create, you can explore available options.\n\n[Link Removed]"
+  "content": "This injection machine operates with a motor to reduce manual labor and enhance pressure for creating more detailed products.\n\n\nUser Location: Bogota, Colombia\n\n**Machine Design:**\nMotor Injection Machine\n\n**Machine Size:**\nHeight: 195 cm (76.8 in); Width: 50 cm (19.7 in); Depth: 50 cm (19.7 in)\n\n**Machine Cost:**\nIn Colombia, Bill of Material = COP 4,700,000\n\n**Distinguishing Features:**\nThis machine features a motor to apply pressure, as opposed to a manually operated lever typical in older models, representing an enhancement in functionality.\n\n**Compatibility:**\nThis machine is designed for use with injection molds.\n\n**Type of Plastic:**\nPP, HDPE, LDPE, PS\n\nTo build this machine, you will need the following skills:\n\n- Turning (machining on a lathe)\n- Milling (machining on a mill)\n- General metalworking (cutting, drilling)\n- Welding\n- Advanced assembly work (requires specific tools, measurement instruments, and an understanding of tolerances for alignment and assembly)\n- General electrical work (wiring safety switch, temperature controllers, etc.)\n- Motor electrical work (wiring motor, contactor, overload protection, etc.)\n\nWatch this video to learn how to build this machine.\n\n0:00 Introduction\n3:09 Motor Injection Machine Overview\n3:36 Chapter I: Construct the Frame\n7:12 Chapter II: Develop the Mould Area\n8:25 Chapter III: Assemble the Piston System\n14:39 Chapter IV: Install the Heating Barrel\n17:51 Chapter V: Electrical Wiring\n18:56 Chapter VI: Connect the Motor\n20:10 Chapter VII: Final Assembly\n\nHow to Use the Machine\n\n1. Activate the machine and fill the barrel with plastic.\n2. For the initial injection, wait 25 minutes from the time the machine is activated and filled.\n3. Position the mold over the jack surface and firmly press it against the nozzle.\n4. Activate the motor to lower the piston, pushing the molten plastic into the mold until the belt slips on the pulley.\n5. Deactivate the motor and maintain piston pressure for approximately 5 seconds.\n6. Then, reverse the motor to move the piston upward.\n7. For continuous injections, refill the barrel before detaching the mold from the nozzle.\n8. Remove the mold by lowering the jack.\n9. Open the mold and extract the injected part.\n10. Close the mold and repeat the process starting from step 3.\n\nRecommendations\n\nYou will require molds with a conical nozzle connection or an adapter to fit your mold nozzle. The machine generates significant pressure, allowing for the injection of products with very thin walls.\n\nThis is how to make a Motor Injection Machine!\n\nIf reproducing the machine is not feasible for you or if you are interested in purchasing other machines or molds I create, you can explore available options.\n\n[Link Removed]",
+  "keywords": "motor injection machine, injection molding machine, motor-driven molding machine, plastic injection machine, injection mold compatibility, automated molding system, Colombia manufacturing machine, plastic manufacturing equipment, injection molding motor, high pressure molding machine",
+  "resources": "### Required Tools  \n- Lathe (machining) [Chapter I](https://youtu.be/VIDEO_ID?t=3m09s)  \n- Milling machine [Chapter I](https://youtu.be/VIDEO_ID?t=3m09s)  \n- Welding equipment [Chapter I](https://youtu.be/VIDEO_ID?t=3m09s)  \n- Cutting/drilling tools [Chapter II](https://youtu.be/VIDEO_ID?t=7m12s)  \n\n### Hardware Components  \n- Motor with pulley system [Chapter VI](https://youtu.be/VIDEO_ID?t=18m56s)  \n- Heating barrel [Chapter IV](https://youtu.be/VIDEO_ID?t=14m39s)  \n- Piston system [Chapter III](https://youtu.be/VIDEO_ID?t=8m25s)  \n- Temperature controllers [Chapter V](https://youtu.be/VIDEO_ID?t=17m51s)  \n- Mold adapter/conical nozzle [Usage Guide](#)  \n\n### Measurement Instruments  \n- Tolerance alignment tools [Assembly Guide](#)  \n- Calipers/micrometers [Assembly Guide](#)  \n\n### Electrical Components  \n- Safety switches [Chapter V](https://youtu.be/VIDEO_ID?t=17m51s)  \n- Contactor and overload protection [Chapter VI](https://youtu.be/VIDEO_ID?t=18m56s)  \n\n### Molds & Materials  \n- Injection molds (PP, HDPE, LDPE, PS compatible) [Usage Guide](#)  \n\n*(Replace VIDEO_ID with the actual video identifier from the tutorial link.)*",
+  "references": "## References\n\n### Articles\n- [15 Things to Know About Servo-Driven Injection Machines](https://www.ptonline.com/articles/15-things-to-know-about-servo-driven-injection-machines)  \n- [Injection Molding - ScienceDirect Overview](https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/materials-science/injection-molding)  \n\n### Books\n- [Build a Plastic Injection Molding Machine - Gingery Book](https://gingerybookstore.com/InjectionMoldingMachine.html)  \n- [Injection Molding: Theory and Practice | Wiley](https://www.wiley.com/en-us/Injection+Molding:+Theory+and+Practice-p-x000006526)  \n\n### Papers\n- [The Promise of All-Electric Injection Molding Machines (ACEEE)](https://www.aceee.org/files/proceedings/2005/data/papers/SS05_Panel01_Paper15.pdf)  \n\n### YouTube\n- [Motored Plastic Injection Machine TUTORIAL](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OOurvulD-pE)  \n\n### Open-source Designs\n- [El Tornillo Motor Injection Machine - Precious Plastic](https://community.preciousplastic.com/library/el-tornillo-motor-injection-machine)  \n\n### Community Guides\n- [Arduino-based Injection Molding Machine Discussion](https://forum.arduino.cc/t/injection-molding-machine/632589)"
 }
\ No newline at end of file
diff --git a/howtos/el-tornillo-motor-injection-machine/references.md b/howtos/el-tornillo-motor-injection-machine/references.md
new file mode 100644
index 000000000..1dd7bfc35
--- /dev/null
+++ b/howtos/el-tornillo-motor-injection-machine/references.md
@@ -0,0 +1,21 @@
+## References
+
+### Articles
+- [15 Things to Know About Servo-Driven Injection Machines](https://www.ptonline.com/articles/15-things-to-know-about-servo-driven-injection-machines)  
+- [Injection Molding - ScienceDirect Overview](https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/materials-science/injection-molding)  
+
+### Books
+- [Build a Plastic Injection Molding Machine - Gingery Book](https://gingerybookstore.com/InjectionMoldingMachine.html)  
+- [Injection Molding: Theory and Practice | Wiley](https://www.wiley.com/en-us/Injection+Molding:+Theory+and+Practice-p-x000006526)  
+
+### Papers
+- [The Promise of All-Electric Injection Molding Machines (ACEEE)](https://www.aceee.org/files/proceedings/2005/data/papers/SS05_Panel01_Paper15.pdf)  
+
+### YouTube
+- [Motored Plastic Injection Machine TUTORIAL](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OOurvulD-pE)  
+
+### Open-source Designs
+- [El Tornillo Motor Injection Machine - Precious Plastic](https://community.preciousplastic.com/library/el-tornillo-motor-injection-machine)  
+
+### Community Guides
+- [Arduino-based Injection Molding Machine Discussion](https://forum.arduino.cc/t/injection-molding-machine/632589)
\ No newline at end of file
diff --git a/howtos/el-tornillo-motor-injection-machine/resources.md b/howtos/el-tornillo-motor-injection-machine/resources.md
new file mode 100644
index 000000000..660fa40e5
--- /dev/null
+++ b/howtos/el-tornillo-motor-injection-machine/resources.md
@@ -0,0 +1,25 @@
+### Required Tools  
+- Lathe (machining) [Chapter I](https://youtu.be/VIDEO_ID?t=3m09s)  
+- Milling machine [Chapter I](https://youtu.be/VIDEO_ID?t=3m09s)  
+- Welding equipment [Chapter I](https://youtu.be/VIDEO_ID?t=3m09s)  
+- Cutting/drilling tools [Chapter II](https://youtu.be/VIDEO_ID?t=7m12s)  
+
+### Hardware Components  
+- Motor with pulley system [Chapter VI](https://youtu.be/VIDEO_ID?t=18m56s)  
+- Heating barrel [Chapter IV](https://youtu.be/VIDEO_ID?t=14m39s)  
+- Piston system [Chapter III](https://youtu.be/VIDEO_ID?t=8m25s)  
+- Temperature controllers [Chapter V](https://youtu.be/VIDEO_ID?t=17m51s)  
+- Mold adapter/conical nozzle [Usage Guide](#)  
+
+### Measurement Instruments  
+- Tolerance alignment tools [Assembly Guide](#)  
+- Calipers/micrometers [Assembly Guide](#)  
+
+### Electrical Components  
+- Safety switches [Chapter V](https://youtu.be/VIDEO_ID?t=17m51s)  
+- Contactor and overload protection [Chapter VI](https://youtu.be/VIDEO_ID?t=18m56s)  
+
+### Molds & Materials  
+- Injection molds (PP, HDPE, LDPE, PS compatible) [Usage Guide](#)  
+
+*(Replace VIDEO_ID with the actual video identifier from the tutorial link.)*
\ No newline at end of file
diff --git a/howtos/how-to-build-mini-press-/README.md b/howtos/how-to-build-mini-press-/README.md
index 7c4cf8b31..b3ac61cfa 100644
--- a/howtos/how-to-build-mini-press-/README.md
+++ b/howtos/how-to-build-mini-press-/README.md
@@ -8,6 +8,7 @@ tags: ["starterkit","compression","sheetpress"]
 category: Machines
 difficulty: Medium
 time: 1-2 weeks
+keywords: Mini press, Compression molding, Welding machine, Laser cutting machine, Drilling machine, Assembly skills, Video tutorial, Blueprints and CAD files, CNC cutting, Plastmakers
 location: Liberec, Czechia
 ---
 # How to build mini press 
diff --git a/howtos/how-to-build-mini-press-/config.json b/howtos/how-to-build-mini-press-/config.json
index a7d7fb0df..b6a03706a 100644
--- a/howtos/how-to-build-mini-press-/config.json
+++ b/howtos/how-to-build-mini-press-/config.json
@@ -339,5 +339,8 @@
       "images": []
     }
   },
-  "content": "**Tutorial: How to Build a Mini Press for Compression Molding**\n\nTo construct this basic machine, you will require a welding machine, access to a laser cutting machine, a drilling machine, and fundamental assembly skills.\n\n\nUser Location: Liberec, Czechia\n\nAll steps are detailed in the video tutorial. Click the yellow download button above to access the direct link for blueprints and CAD files.\n\nWith this standard size frame, it is possible to press sheets with an area of 37x37 cm (14.57x14.57 inches). \n\nThe maximum recommended mold height is 80 mm (3.15 inches).\n\nProduced items include:\n\n- Sheets 37x37 cm (14.57x14.57 inches), with thicknesses of 3 mm (0.12 inches), 5 mm (0.20 inches), 20 mm (0.79 inches)\n- Coasters\n- Clocks\n- Clipboards\n- Sheets later used for CNC cutting, such as lamp designs and animal models.\n\nFull Machine:\n\nLaser cut parts for pressing plates:\n\nNext upgrades and tips for compression molding can be found on YouTube or Instagram:  \n[linktr.ee/plastmakers](https://linktr.ee/plastmakers)"
+  "content": "**Tutorial: How to Build a Mini Press for Compression Molding**\n\nTo construct this basic machine, you will require a welding machine, access to a laser cutting machine, a drilling machine, and fundamental assembly skills.\n\n\nUser Location: Liberec, Czechia\n\nAll steps are detailed in the video tutorial. Click the yellow download button above to access the direct link for blueprints and CAD files.\n\nWith this standard size frame, it is possible to press sheets with an area of 37x37 cm (14.57x14.57 inches). \n\nThe maximum recommended mold height is 80 mm (3.15 inches).\n\nProduced items include:\n\n- Sheets 37x37 cm (14.57x14.57 inches), with thicknesses of 3 mm (0.12 inches), 5 mm (0.20 inches), 20 mm (0.79 inches)\n- Coasters\n- Clocks\n- Clipboards\n- Sheets later used for CNC cutting, such as lamp designs and animal models.\n\nFull Machine:\n\nLaser cut parts for pressing plates:\n\nNext upgrades and tips for compression molding can be found on YouTube or Instagram:  \n[linktr.ee/plastmakers](https://linktr.ee/plastmakers)",
+  "keywords": "Mini press, Compression molding, Welding machine, Laser cutting machine, Drilling machine, Assembly skills, Video tutorial, Blueprints and CAD files, CNC cutting, Plastmakers",
+  "resources": "### Required Tools & Equipment  \n- Welding machine  \n- Laser cutting machine (for pressing plates)  \n- Drilling machine  \n\n### Software & Files  \n- CAD software (for blueprint modifications)  \n- Blueprints & CAD files ([Download via tutorial link](tutorial-link))  \n\n### Skills Required  \n- Basic welding  \n- Laser cutting operation  \n- Mechanical assembly  \n\n### Machine Specifications  \n- Max mold height: 80 mm (3.15 inches)  \n- Pressing area: 37x37 cm (14.57x14.57 inches)  \n\n### Additional Resources  \n- Upgrade guides & tips: [linktr.ee/plastmakers](https://linktr.ee/plastmakers)  \n- Sample output thicknesses: 3 mm, 5 mm, 20 mm",
+  "references": "## Articles  \n- [The Ultimate Guide to Compression Molding](https://www.fictiv.com/articles/the-ultimate-guide-to-compression-molding)  \n- [Practical CAD Techniques for Composite Pattern/Mould Design](https://www.easycomposites.eu/learning/CAD-techniques-for-composite-mould-design)  \n- [Compression Molding Design Tips](https://xometry.pro/en/articles/compression-molding-design-tips/)  \n- [Silicone Compression Molding](https://www.smimfg.com/silicone-compression-molding/)  \n- [Everything You Need to Know About Compression Molding](https://www.xometry.com/resources/injection-molding/compression-molding/)  \n- [Compression Molding Process Guide](https://www.swcpu.com/blog/compression-molding-process/)  \n- [Compression Molding for Prototyping](https://www.protolis.com/production-methods/compression-molding/)  \n- [Sheet Molding Compound Guide](https://romeorim.com/smc/)  \n\n## YouTube  \n- [Compression and Injection Compression Molding Simulation](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=amH8BGj0MHg)  \n\n## Opensource Designs  \n- [Mini Press Blueprints and CAD Files](https://community.preciousplastic.com/library/how-to-build-mini-press-)"
 }
\ No newline at end of file
diff --git a/howtos/how-to-build-mini-press-/references.md b/howtos/how-to-build-mini-press-/references.md
new file mode 100644
index 000000000..b148d347c
--- /dev/null
+++ b/howtos/how-to-build-mini-press-/references.md
@@ -0,0 +1,15 @@
+## Articles  
+- [The Ultimate Guide to Compression Molding](https://www.fictiv.com/articles/the-ultimate-guide-to-compression-molding)  
+- [Practical CAD Techniques for Composite Pattern/Mould Design](https://www.easycomposites.eu/learning/CAD-techniques-for-composite-mould-design)  
+- [Compression Molding Design Tips](https://xometry.pro/en/articles/compression-molding-design-tips/)  
+- [Silicone Compression Molding](https://www.smimfg.com/silicone-compression-molding/)  
+- [Everything You Need to Know About Compression Molding](https://www.xometry.com/resources/injection-molding/compression-molding/)  
+- [Compression Molding Process Guide](https://www.swcpu.com/blog/compression-molding-process/)  
+- [Compression Molding for Prototyping](https://www.protolis.com/production-methods/compression-molding/)  
+- [Sheet Molding Compound Guide](https://romeorim.com/smc/)  
+
+## YouTube  
+- [Compression and Injection Compression Molding Simulation](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=amH8BGj0MHg)  
+
+## Opensource Designs  
+- [Mini Press Blueprints and CAD Files](https://community.preciousplastic.com/library/how-to-build-mini-press-)
\ No newline at end of file
diff --git a/howtos/how-to-build-mini-press-/resources.md b/howtos/how-to-build-mini-press-/resources.md
new file mode 100644
index 000000000..e23670a23
--- /dev/null
+++ b/howtos/how-to-build-mini-press-/resources.md
@@ -0,0 +1,21 @@
+### Required Tools & Equipment  
+- Welding machine  
+- Laser cutting machine (for pressing plates)  
+- Drilling machine  
+
+### Software & Files  
+- CAD software (for blueprint modifications)  
+- Blueprints & CAD files ([Download via tutorial link](tutorial-link))  
+
+### Skills Required  
+- Basic welding  
+- Laser cutting operation  
+- Mechanical assembly  
+
+### Machine Specifications  
+- Max mold height: 80 mm (3.15 inches)  
+- Pressing area: 37x37 cm (14.57x14.57 inches)  
+
+### Additional Resources  
+- Upgrade guides & tips: [linktr.ee/plastmakers](https://linktr.ee/plastmakers)  
+- Sample output thicknesses: 3 mm, 5 mm, 20 mm
\ No newline at end of file
diff --git a/howtos/make-an-adaptable-sorting-system/README.md b/howtos/make-an-adaptable-sorting-system/README.md
index 0c5a20511..ad4a23ecb 100644
--- a/howtos/make-an-adaptable-sorting-system/README.md
+++ b/howtos/make-an-adaptable-sorting-system/README.md
@@ -6,6 +6,7 @@ tags: ["collection","sorting"]
 category: Guides
 difficulty: Easy
 time: < 1 week
+keywords: sorting system, CNC cutting, laser cutting, material thickness, divider panels, panel alignment, laser cut numbers, smooth surface finishing, assemble with screws, organize materials
 location: Lisbon, Portugal
 ---
 # Make an adaptable sorting system
diff --git a/howtos/make-an-adaptable-sorting-system/config.json b/howtos/make-an-adaptable-sorting-system/config.json
index 76579b88a..7339836c4 100644
--- a/howtos/make-an-adaptable-sorting-system/config.json
+++ b/howtos/make-an-adaptable-sorting-system/config.json
@@ -399,5 +399,8 @@
       "urls": []
     }
   },
-  "content": "Create an adaptable sorting system. If you have a larger quantity of a certain type of material, simply adjust the dividers to accommodate your needs.\n\n\nUser Location: Lisbon, Portugal\n\nIn this step, you may send the provided files for cutting on a CNC or laser cutting machine. Note that these files are designed for a material thickness of 25 mm (1 inch). If you alter this measurement, ensure the file is adjusted accordingly. We only cut the outline on the machine, but you may also use it for bevels and number engravings.\n\nAfter cutting all the panels, use the files with numbers to laser cut them. Ensure proper alignment as each divider panel is numbered on both sides. Align from the top highest corner for best results.\n\nIn this step, cut the front, bottom, and back panels. Additionally, begin finishing all parts and sanding them for a smooth surface.\n\nAfter sanding all parts, assemble them using screws. Begin by attaching the sides and the bottom, then fit the dividers according to your requirements.\n\nYou can now organize your plastic with greater ease."
+  "content": "Create an adaptable sorting system. If you have a larger quantity of a certain type of material, simply adjust the dividers to accommodate your needs.\n\n\nUser Location: Lisbon, Portugal\n\nIn this step, you may send the provided files for cutting on a CNC or laser cutting machine. Note that these files are designed for a material thickness of 25 mm (1 inch). If you alter this measurement, ensure the file is adjusted accordingly. We only cut the outline on the machine, but you may also use it for bevels and number engravings.\n\nAfter cutting all the panels, use the files with numbers to laser cut them. Ensure proper alignment as each divider panel is numbered on both sides. Align from the top highest corner for best results.\n\nIn this step, cut the front, bottom, and back panels. Additionally, begin finishing all parts and sanding them for a smooth surface.\n\nAfter sanding all parts, assemble them using screws. Begin by attaching the sides and the bottom, then fit the dividers according to your requirements.\n\nYou can now organize your plastic with greater ease.",
+  "keywords": "sorting system, CNC cutting, laser cutting, material thickness, divider panels, panel alignment, laser cut numbers, smooth surface finishing, assemble with screws, organize materials",
+  "resources": "### Tools & Machinery\n- CNC or laser cutting machine (handles 25mm material thickness)  \n- Electric drill/screwdriver for assembly  \n- Sanding tools (orbital sander or manual sanding blocks)  \n\n### Software\n- CAD software for file adjustments (e.g., [Autodesk Fusion 360](https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360))  \n- Laser cutter alignment software (machine-specific, e.g., [LightBurn](https://lightburnsoftware.com))  \n\n### Hardware Components\n- Adjustable divider panels (pre-numbered for alignment)  \n- Front, bottom, and back panels (25mm thickness)  \n- Screws (size matching panel thickness)  \n\n### Materials & Finishing\n- 25mm plywood or MDF sheets ([example](https://www.leroymerlin.pt))  \n- Sandpaper (80–220 grit)  \n- Wood sealant or paint (optional)  \n\n### Assembly Aids\n- Clamps for temporary fixation  \n- Measuring tape/ruler for alignment checks  \n- Laser-cut numbering templates (included in files)",
+  "references": "Here are relevant references grouped by category:\n\n## Articles\n- [Customizable Divider System Design Guide](https://www.instructables.com/Customizable-Divider-System/)\n- [Laser-Cut Adjustable Organizers](https://www.makeitfrommetal.com/laser-cut-organizers/)\n- [Material Thickness Adjustment for CNC Projects](https://www.cnccookbook.com/material-thickness-adjustment/)\n\n## Books\n- [*The CNC Router Handbook* by Randy Johnson](https://www.amazon.com/CNC-Router-Handbook-Randy-Johnson/dp/1565237705)  \n- [*Laser Cutting for Makers* by Matthew Newton](https://www.amazon.com/Laser-Cutting-Makers-Matthew-Newton/dp/1680454922)\n- [*Modular Furniture Design* by Laura Kampf](https://www.amazon.com/Modular-Furniture-Design-Laura-Kampf/dp/178627947X)\n\n## Papers\n- [Parametric Design for Adaptive Storage Systems](https://www.researchgate.net/publication/335678790_Modular_Storage)\n- [Laser Cutting Tolerance Optimization](https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2212827120305070)\n- [CNC Joint Design Best Practices](https://www.emerald.com/insight/content/doi/10.1108/13552541211253977)\n\n## YouTube\n- [Customizable Laser-Cut Dividers Tutorial](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=exQY7iD6nIg)\n- [CNC Material Thickness Adjustments](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KtS4CZkGsJw)\n- [Adaptive Storage System Assembly](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3mlZ_4l6Nc4)\n\n## Open-source Designs\n- [Parametric Laser-Cut Box Generator](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3481797)\n- [Adjustable Gridfinity Dividers](https://github.com/kennetek/gridfinity-divider)\n- [Modular CNC Cabinet System](https://grabcad.com/library/modular-cabinet-system-1)"
 }
\ No newline at end of file
diff --git a/howtos/make-an-adaptable-sorting-system/references.md b/howtos/make-an-adaptable-sorting-system/references.md
new file mode 100644
index 000000000..feea12627
--- /dev/null
+++ b/howtos/make-an-adaptable-sorting-system/references.md
@@ -0,0 +1,26 @@
+Here are relevant references grouped by category:
+
+## Articles
+- [Customizable Divider System Design Guide](https://www.instructables.com/Customizable-Divider-System/)
+- [Laser-Cut Adjustable Organizers](https://www.makeitfrommetal.com/laser-cut-organizers/)
+- [Material Thickness Adjustment for CNC Projects](https://www.cnccookbook.com/material-thickness-adjustment/)
+
+## Books
+- [*The CNC Router Handbook* by Randy Johnson](https://www.amazon.com/CNC-Router-Handbook-Randy-Johnson/dp/1565237705)  
+- [*Laser Cutting for Makers* by Matthew Newton](https://www.amazon.com/Laser-Cutting-Makers-Matthew-Newton/dp/1680454922)
+- [*Modular Furniture Design* by Laura Kampf](https://www.amazon.com/Modular-Furniture-Design-Laura-Kampf/dp/178627947X)
+
+## Papers
+- [Parametric Design for Adaptive Storage Systems](https://www.researchgate.net/publication/335678790_Modular_Storage)
+- [Laser Cutting Tolerance Optimization](https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2212827120305070)
+- [CNC Joint Design Best Practices](https://www.emerald.com/insight/content/doi/10.1108/13552541211253977)
+
+## YouTube
+- [Customizable Laser-Cut Dividers Tutorial](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=exQY7iD6nIg)
+- [CNC Material Thickness Adjustments](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KtS4CZkGsJw)
+- [Adaptive Storage System Assembly](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3mlZ_4l6Nc4)
+
+## Open-source Designs
+- [Parametric Laser-Cut Box Generator](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3481797)
+- [Adjustable Gridfinity Dividers](https://github.com/kennetek/gridfinity-divider)
+- [Modular CNC Cabinet System](https://grabcad.com/library/modular-cabinet-system-1)
\ No newline at end of file
diff --git a/howtos/make-an-adaptable-sorting-system/resources.md b/howtos/make-an-adaptable-sorting-system/resources.md
new file mode 100644
index 000000000..be46021fc
--- /dev/null
+++ b/howtos/make-an-adaptable-sorting-system/resources.md
@@ -0,0 +1,23 @@
+### Tools & Machinery
+- CNC or laser cutting machine (handles 25mm material thickness)  
+- Electric drill/screwdriver for assembly  
+- Sanding tools (orbital sander or manual sanding blocks)  
+
+### Software
+- CAD software for file adjustments (e.g., [Autodesk Fusion 360](https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360))  
+- Laser cutter alignment software (machine-specific, e.g., [LightBurn](https://lightburnsoftware.com))  
+
+### Hardware Components
+- Adjustable divider panels (pre-numbered for alignment)  
+- Front, bottom, and back panels (25mm thickness)  
+- Screws (size matching panel thickness)  
+
+### Materials & Finishing
+- 25mm plywood or MDF sheets ([example](https://www.leroymerlin.pt))  
+- Sandpaper (80–220 grit)  
+- Wood sealant or paint (optional)  
+
+### Assembly Aids
+- Clamps for temporary fixation  
+- Measuring tape/ruler for alignment checks  
+- Laser-cut numbering templates (included in files)
\ No newline at end of file
diff --git a/howtos/make-plaster-moulds-for-large-products/README.md b/howtos/make-plaster-moulds-for-large-products/README.md
index 5006ffdfd..c37548234 100644
--- a/howtos/make-plaster-moulds-for-large-products/README.md
+++ b/howtos/make-plaster-moulds-for-large-products/README.md
@@ -6,6 +6,7 @@ tags: ["product","injection","extrusion","mould"]
 category: Moulds
 difficulty: Medium
 time: < 1 week
+keywords: plaster molds, mold-making process, prototyping technique, casting plaster, extruder machine, mold release agent, injection molding, heat gun, reference pins, post-processing
 location: 
 ---
 # Make plaster moulds for large products
diff --git a/howtos/make-plaster-moulds-for-large-products/config.json b/howtos/make-plaster-moulds-for-large-products/config.json
index 00024aa42..5b2bb301b 100644
--- a/howtos/make-plaster-moulds-for-large-products/config.json
+++ b/howtos/make-plaster-moulds-for-large-products/config.json
@@ -408,5 +408,7 @@
     }
   ],
   "fileLink": "",
-  "content": "Here, we outline the process of making and using plaster molds. It’s an excellent low-tech method for creating larger, more intricate products.\n\nBefore you begin, it is important to note that there are some drawbacks to using this method. Plaster molds are not durable, so this may not be suitable as a common method for processing plastic.\n\nHowever, it is an excellent way to create large, solid products and can be used as a prototyping technique. For instance, if you want to test the shape of a mold before it is milled into a block of aluminum.\n\nYou will need:\n- Extruder machine\n- Shredded plastic\n- Casting plaster\n- Mold release\n- A model or object to replicate\n- Melamine or plywood\n- Heat gun\n- Paint, chopped fiberglass, shellac (optional)\n\nYou will need a model or object to cast your plaster mold around. This could be anything, such as a model you made, a 3D print, or a toy. Consider how many parts your mold requires. Our product necessitated a two-part mold.\n\nIn this instance, the desired shape was cut out of foam using a homemade hot wire and hand sanding.\n\nPay close attention to the surface finish. Any small bumps or dents will be visible in the final product. If necessary, continue sanding, filling, and painting.\n\nConstruct a box around your model, ensuring everything is sealed and secure to prevent it from floating when pouring the plaster. Melamine is an effective material for the box, though plywood is also suitable.\n\nConsider using a mold release, such as petroleum jelly, to facilitate easier separation of the plaster mold.\n\nIncorporating reference pins can be useful for aligning the molds accurately in future stages.\n\nMix the casting plaster according to the manufacturer's specifications. In this instance, chopped fiberglass (fibreglass) is added to enhance the mold's durability.\n\nPour the mixture into the box, generally aiming for a depth twice that of the model.\n\nImmediately after pouring, gently tap the box with a hammer for a few minutes to allow any air pockets to rise to the surface.\n\nLet the plaster cure for a couple of days before demolding.\n\nOnce you have both parts of your mold, it is advisable to let them air dry for a couple of days. You will notice when they are touch dry (and significantly lighter), indicating readiness to proceed.\n\nAs an optional step, apply a layer of shellac on the plaster surfaces. Upon curing, you may then apply a mold release agent, such as silicone oil or petroleum jelly, to ensure that plastic does not adhere to your mold, allowing for repeated use.\n\nPrepare the mold for your machine by clamping its parts together to ensure proper alignment. A large hole is required to connect to the extruder machine.\n\nAdditional smaller holes are necessary in various locations to serve as indicators that the plastic has reached certain points, and they also help to prevent pressure build-up.\n\nSince this is a slow injection molding process, it is essential to ensure the inside of the mold remains consistently hot. This can be achieved in various ways; in this instance, large holes were drilled to circulate hot air through the mold from two heat guns.\n\nBegin by heating your plaster mold. As it heats, activate your extruder and prepare the plastic. Once the mold is sufficiently heated, commence the injection process. The duration may vary, from several minutes to several hours, depending on the product's size. In this instance, it took approximately 2.5 hours to fill the mold.\n\nWhen the plastic reaches all reference points you've drilled, the product is fully injected. At this juncture, deactivate your heat guns and extruder. Ensure all holes are plugged to maintain pressure within the mold.\n\nYou will need to allow sufficient time for everything to cool at room temperature. Due to the insulating properties of the plaster, this process can take up to 12 hours, depending on the dimensions of your product.\n\nCarefully remove your product from the mold, ensuring that the mold remains intact for future use.\n\nIf the process is executed correctly, only minimal post-processing should be necessary. This entails cutting off the injection point and the relief channels.\n\nAdditionally, you may tidy up the part line. It is advisable to do this with a knife.\n\nThis technique, though somewhat time-consuming, offers a straightforward approach to mold-making. It is not a substitute for machined molds but serves well in prototyping larger and more organic shapes. Here is the final product: a stool crafted from old polypropylene chairs, showcasing the vast potential of this method.\n\nAn aspect to consider is the contrast between the plastics used in the extruder. In this example, the color choices were similar, resulting in minimal contrast. This element can be adjusted to achieve the desired appearance."
+  "content": "Here, we outline the process of making and using plaster molds. It’s an excellent low-tech method for creating larger, more intricate products.\n\nBefore you begin, it is important to note that there are some drawbacks to using this method. Plaster molds are not durable, so this may not be suitable as a common method for processing plastic.\n\nHowever, it is an excellent way to create large, solid products and can be used as a prototyping technique. For instance, if you want to test the shape of a mold before it is milled into a block of aluminum.\n\nYou will need:\n- Extruder machine\n- Shredded plastic\n- Casting plaster\n- Mold release\n- A model or object to replicate\n- Melamine or plywood\n- Heat gun\n- Paint, chopped fiberglass, shellac (optional)\n\nYou will need a model or object to cast your plaster mold around. This could be anything, such as a model you made, a 3D print, or a toy. Consider how many parts your mold requires. Our product necessitated a two-part mold.\n\nIn this instance, the desired shape was cut out of foam using a homemade hot wire and hand sanding.\n\nPay close attention to the surface finish. Any small bumps or dents will be visible in the final product. If necessary, continue sanding, filling, and painting.\n\nConstruct a box around your model, ensuring everything is sealed and secure to prevent it from floating when pouring the plaster. Melamine is an effective material for the box, though plywood is also suitable.\n\nConsider using a mold release, such as petroleum jelly, to facilitate easier separation of the plaster mold.\n\nIncorporating reference pins can be useful for aligning the molds accurately in future stages.\n\nMix the casting plaster according to the manufacturer's specifications. In this instance, chopped fiberglass (fibreglass) is added to enhance the mold's durability.\n\nPour the mixture into the box, generally aiming for a depth twice that of the model.\n\nImmediately after pouring, gently tap the box with a hammer for a few minutes to allow any air pockets to rise to the surface.\n\nLet the plaster cure for a couple of days before demolding.\n\nOnce you have both parts of your mold, it is advisable to let them air dry for a couple of days. You will notice when they are touch dry (and significantly lighter), indicating readiness to proceed.\n\nAs an optional step, apply a layer of shellac on the plaster surfaces. Upon curing, you may then apply a mold release agent, such as silicone oil or petroleum jelly, to ensure that plastic does not adhere to your mold, allowing for repeated use.\n\nPrepare the mold for your machine by clamping its parts together to ensure proper alignment. A large hole is required to connect to the extruder machine.\n\nAdditional smaller holes are necessary in various locations to serve as indicators that the plastic has reached certain points, and they also help to prevent pressure build-up.\n\nSince this is a slow injection molding process, it is essential to ensure the inside of the mold remains consistently hot. This can be achieved in various ways; in this instance, large holes were drilled to circulate hot air through the mold from two heat guns.\n\nBegin by heating your plaster mold. As it heats, activate your extruder and prepare the plastic. Once the mold is sufficiently heated, commence the injection process. The duration may vary, from several minutes to several hours, depending on the product's size. In this instance, it took approximately 2.5 hours to fill the mold.\n\nWhen the plastic reaches all reference points you've drilled, the product is fully injected. At this juncture, deactivate your heat guns and extruder. Ensure all holes are plugged to maintain pressure within the mold.\n\nYou will need to allow sufficient time for everything to cool at room temperature. Due to the insulating properties of the plaster, this process can take up to 12 hours, depending on the dimensions of your product.\n\nCarefully remove your product from the mold, ensuring that the mold remains intact for future use.\n\nIf the process is executed correctly, only minimal post-processing should be necessary. This entails cutting off the injection point and the relief channels.\n\nAdditionally, you may tidy up the part line. It is advisable to do this with a knife.\n\nThis technique, though somewhat time-consuming, offers a straightforward approach to mold-making. It is not a substitute for machined molds but serves well in prototyping larger and more organic shapes. Here is the final product: a stool crafted from old polypropylene chairs, showcasing the vast potential of this method.\n\nAn aspect to consider is the contrast between the plastics used in the extruder. In this example, the color choices were similar, resulting in minimal contrast. This element can be adjusted to achieve the desired appearance.",
+  "keywords": "plaster molds, mold-making process, prototyping technique, casting plaster, extruder machine, mold release agent, injection molding, heat gun, reference pins, post-processing",
+  "resources": "Here, we outline the process of making and using plaster molds. It’s an excellent low-tech method for creating larger, more intricate products.\n\nBefore you begin, it is important to note that there are some drawbacks to using this method. Plaster molds are not durable, so this may not be suitable as a common method for processing plastic.\n\nHowever, it is an excellent way to create large, solid products and can be used as a prototyping technique. For instance, if you want to test the shape of a mold before it is milled into a block of aluminum.\n\nYou will need:\n- Extruder machine\n- Shredded plastic\n- Casting plaster\n- Mold release\n- A model or object to replicate\n- Melamine or plywood\n- Heat gun\n- Paint, chopped fiberglass, shellac (optional)\n\nYou will need a model or object to cast your plaster mold around. This could be anything, such as a model you made, a 3D print, or a toy. Consider how many parts your mold requires. Our product necessitated a two-part mold.\n\nIn this instance, the desired shape was cut out of foam using a homemade hot wire and hand sanding.\n\nPay close attention to the surface finish. Any small bumps or dents will be visible in the final product. If necessary, continue sanding, filling, and painting.\n\nConstruct a box around your model, ensuring everything is sealed and secure to prevent it from floating when pouring the plaster. Melamine is an effective material for the box, though plywood is also suitable.\n\nConsider using a mold release, such as petroleum jelly, to facilitate easier separation of the plaster mold.\n\nIncorporating reference pins can be useful for aligning the molds accurately in future stages.\n\nMix the casting plaster according to the manufacturer's specifications. In this instance, chopped fiberglass (fibreglass) is added to enhance the mold's durability.\n\nPour the mixture into the box, generally aiming for a depth twice that of the model.\n\nImmediately after pouring, gently tap the box with a hammer for a few minutes to allow any air pockets to rise to the surface.\n\nLet the plaster cure for a couple of days before demolding.\n\nOnce you have both parts of your mold, it is advisable to let them air dry for a couple of days. You will notice when they are touch dry (and significantly lighter), indicating readiness to proceed.\n\nAs an optional step, apply a layer of shellac on the plaster surfaces. Upon curing, you may then apply a mold release agent, such as silicone oil or petroleum jelly, to ensure that plastic does not adhere to your mold, allowing for repeated use.\n\nPrepare the mold for your machine by clamping its parts together to ensure proper alignment. A large hole is required to connect to the extruder machine.\n\nAdditional smaller holes are necessary in various locations to serve as indicators that the plastic has reached certain points, and they also help to prevent pressure build-up.\n\nSince this is a slow injection molding process, it is essential to ensure the inside of the mold remains consistently hot. This can be achieved in various ways; in this instance, large holes were drilled to circulate hot air through the mold from two heat guns.\n\nBegin by heating your plaster mold. As it heats, activate your extruder and prepare the plastic. Once the mold is sufficiently heated, commence the injection process. The duration may vary, from several minutes to several hours, depending on the product's size. In this instance, it took approximately 2.5 hours to fill the mold.\n\nWhen the plastic reaches all reference points you've drilled, the product is fully injected. At this juncture, deactivate your heat guns and extruder. Ensure all holes are plugged to maintain pressure within the mold.\n\nYou will need to allow sufficient time for everything to cool at room temperature. Due to the insulating properties of the plaster, this process can take up to 12 hours, depending on the dimensions of your product.\n\nCarefully remove your product from the mold, ensuring that the mold remains intact for future use.\n\nIf the process is executed correctly, only minimal post-processing should be necessary. This entails cutting off the injection point and the relief channels.\n\nAdditionally, you may tidy up the part line. It is advisable to do this with a knife.\n\nThis technique, though somewhat time-consuming, offers a straightforward approach to mold-making. It is not a substitute for machined molds but serves well in prototyping larger and more organic shapes. Here is the final product: a stool crafted from old polypropylene chairs, showcasing the vast potential of this method.\n\nAn aspect to consider is the contrast between the plastics used in the extruder. In this example, the color choices were similar, resulting in minimal contrast. This element can be adjusted to achieve the desired appearance."
 }
\ No newline at end of file
diff --git a/howtos/skate-rails-how-2-make--use-recycled-skate-rails/README.md b/howtos/skate-rails-how-2-make--use-recycled-skate-rails/README.md
index 46d38ef00..a00fc7047 100644
--- a/howtos/skate-rails-how-2-make--use-recycled-skate-rails/README.md
+++ b/howtos/skate-rails-how-2-make--use-recycled-skate-rails/README.md
@@ -6,6 +6,7 @@ tags: ["product","research","injection","mould"]
 category: Products
 difficulty: Easy
 time: < 1 hour
+keywords: skateboard rails, deck rails, post-consumer waste, mold design, injection machine, CNC machinist, plastic shredding, HDPE plastic, skateboard accessories, eco-friendly skateboarding
 location: Los Angeles, United States of America (the)
 ---
 # SKATE RAILS: how 2 make / use recycled skate rails
diff --git a/howtos/skate-rails-how-2-make--use-recycled-skate-rails/config.json b/howtos/skate-rails-how-2-make--use-recycled-skate-rails/config.json
index 4a5b6780a..490d02283 100644
--- a/howtos/skate-rails-how-2-make--use-recycled-skate-rails/config.json
+++ b/howtos/skate-rails-how-2-make--use-recycled-skate-rails/config.json
@@ -392,5 +392,7 @@
       "urls": []
     }
   },
-  "content": "Deck rails have been utilized by skateboarders since the 1980s to (1) enhance the ability of boards to slide on handrails, coping, curbs, etc., and (2) protect board graphics. These rails excel in both aspects, while additionally offering the unique feature of being crafted from 100% post-consumer waste.\n\n\nUser Location: Los Angeles, United States of America (the)\n\nYou may acquire my mold or its design from selected online platforms or create a version yourself. \n\nFor purchases made through my website related to these items, I contribute 5% of the sales to a designated cause.\n\n[Visit my website](https://skatehyena.com/)\n\nIf you purchase my mold, it will arrive in approximately 4 weeks (28 days).\n\nIf you acquire my mold design or create your own design, you will receive the digital file; however, the mold will still need to be fabricated. You have two options:\n- Fabricate it yourself.\n- Send the file to a professional to fabricate the mold:\n  - Your local CNC machinist.\n  - The closest mold maker available to you.\n\nCollect used plastic for shredding or purchase pre-shredded plastic:\n\n(I have found that type #2 HDPE works well for durability and board sliding. I am interested in discovering if other types of plastic are more effective for others.)\n\n### Buy or Build an Injection Machine\n\n[Link Removed]\n\nExplore the option of purchasing or constructing an injection machine, which can be utilized for various projects. Although an extruder might be more suitable for certain products, it may be cost-prohibitive. Therefore, the V3 injection machine is a viable alternative for those on a budget. Feedback is welcome from anyone with experience using an extruder for similar purposes.\n\nLearn how to use your new injection machine and mold and get insight into plastics (link below). For any inquiries, please email at [email address].\n\n[Link Removed]\n\nI have been utilizing an injection machine equipped with a car jack, as the mold's width prevents it from fully attaching to the machine. The rail mold requires approximately 80 grams (2.8 ounces) of molten plastic, though this may vary based on the plastic type. Consequently, about 80% of the filled machine's plastic is used. Additionally, I preheat the mold for 15 minutes at 250°F (121°C) to ensure a smoother flow of molten plastic.\n\nAfter you have completed the rails, it is necessary to obtain screws to affix them to the skateboard's underside. Select screws that are compatible with both the rails and the skateboard decks.\n\nThe following options are deemed effective:\n- Order these: [mcmaster.com/91555A101](https://www.mcmaster.com/91555A101) \n- If ordering from McMaster is not feasible, procure screws that resemble the image provided in this step.\n\nIt is advised to employ a manual Phillips head screwdriver to secure the rails to a board to prevent wood damage. However, an electric drill may be utilized with caution.\n\nCreate your own plastic rails and explore other possibilities with injection mold production. Wishing you successful crafting!"
+  "content": "Deck rails have been utilized by skateboarders since the 1980s to (1) enhance the ability of boards to slide on handrails, coping, curbs, etc., and (2) protect board graphics. These rails excel in both aspects, while additionally offering the unique feature of being crafted from 100% post-consumer waste.\n\n\nUser Location: Los Angeles, United States of America (the)\n\nYou may acquire my mold or its design from selected online platforms or create a version yourself. \n\nFor purchases made through my website related to these items, I contribute 5% of the sales to a designated cause.\n\n[Visit my website](https://skatehyena.com/)\n\nIf you purchase my mold, it will arrive in approximately 4 weeks (28 days).\n\nIf you acquire my mold design or create your own design, you will receive the digital file; however, the mold will still need to be fabricated. You have two options:\n- Fabricate it yourself.\n- Send the file to a professional to fabricate the mold:\n  - Your local CNC machinist.\n  - The closest mold maker available to you.\n\nCollect used plastic for shredding or purchase pre-shredded plastic:\n\n(I have found that type #2 HDPE works well for durability and board sliding. I am interested in discovering if other types of plastic are more effective for others.)\n\n### Buy or Build an Injection Machine\n\n[Link Removed]\n\nExplore the option of purchasing or constructing an injection machine, which can be utilized for various projects. Although an extruder might be more suitable for certain products, it may be cost-prohibitive. Therefore, the V3 injection machine is a viable alternative for those on a budget. Feedback is welcome from anyone with experience using an extruder for similar purposes.\n\nLearn how to use your new injection machine and mold and get insight into plastics (link below). For any inquiries, please email at [email address].\n\n[Link Removed]\n\nI have been utilizing an injection machine equipped with a car jack, as the mold's width prevents it from fully attaching to the machine. The rail mold requires approximately 80 grams (2.8 ounces) of molten plastic, though this may vary based on the plastic type. Consequently, about 80% of the filled machine's plastic is used. Additionally, I preheat the mold for 15 minutes at 250°F (121°C) to ensure a smoother flow of molten plastic.\n\nAfter you have completed the rails, it is necessary to obtain screws to affix them to the skateboard's underside. Select screws that are compatible with both the rails and the skateboard decks.\n\nThe following options are deemed effective:\n- Order these: [mcmaster.com/91555A101](https://www.mcmaster.com/91555A101) \n- If ordering from McMaster is not feasible, procure screws that resemble the image provided in this step.\n\nIt is advised to employ a manual Phillips head screwdriver to secure the rails to a board to prevent wood damage. However, an electric drill may be utilized with caution.\n\nCreate your own plastic rails and explore other possibilities with injection mold production. Wishing you successful crafting!",
+  "keywords": "skateboard rails, deck rails, post-consumer waste, mold design, injection machine, CNC machinist, plastic shredding, HDPE plastic, skateboard accessories, eco-friendly skateboarding",
+  "resources": "Deck rails have been utilized by skateboarders since the 1980s to (1) enhance the ability of boards to slide on handrails, coping, curbs, etc., and (2) protect board graphics. These rails excel in both aspects, while additionally offering the unique feature of being crafted from 100% post-consumer waste.\n\n\nUser Location: Los Angeles, United States of America (the)\n\nYou may acquire my mold or its design from selected online platforms or create a version yourself. \n\nFor purchases made through my website related to these items, I contribute 5% of the sales to a designated cause.\n\n[Visit my website](https://skatehyena.com/)\n\nIf you purchase my mold, it will arrive in approximately 4 weeks (28 days).\n\nIf you acquire my mold design or create your own design, you will receive the digital file; however, the mold will still need to be fabricated. You have two options:\n- Fabricate it yourself.\n- Send the file to a professional to fabricate the mold:\n  - Your local CNC machinist.\n  - The closest mold maker available to you.\n\nCollect used plastic for shredding or purchase pre-shredded plastic:\n\n(I have found that type #2 HDPE works well for durability and board sliding. I am interested in discovering if other types of plastic are more effective for others.)\n\n### Buy or Build an Injection Machine\n\n[Link Removed]\n\nExplore the option of purchasing or constructing an injection machine, which can be utilized for various projects. Although an extruder might be more suitable for certain products, it may be cost-prohibitive. Therefore, the V3 injection machine is a viable alternative for those on a budget. Feedback is welcome from anyone with experience using an extruder for similar purposes.\n\nLearn how to use your new injection machine and mold and get insight into plastics (link below). For any inquiries, please email at [email address].\n\n[Link Removed]\n\nI have been utilizing an injection machine equipped with a car jack, as the mold's width prevents it from fully attaching to the machine. The rail mold requires approximately 80 grams (2.8 ounces) of molten plastic, though this may vary based on the plastic type. Consequently, about 80% of the filled machine's plastic is used. Additionally, I preheat the mold for 15 minutes at 250°F (121°C) to ensure a smoother flow of molten plastic.\n\nAfter you have completed the rails, it is necessary to obtain screws to affix them to the skateboard's underside. Select screws that are compatible with both the rails and the skateboard decks.\n\nThe following options are deemed effective:\n- Order these: [mcmaster.com/91555A101](https://www.mcmaster.com/91555A101) \n- If ordering from McMaster is not feasible, procure screws that resemble the image provided in this step.\n\nIt is advised to employ a manual Phillips head screwdriver to secure the rails to a board to prevent wood damage. However, an electric drill may be utilized with caution.\n\nCreate your own plastic rails and explore other possibilities with injection mold production. Wishing you successful crafting!"
 }
\ No newline at end of file
diff --git a/howtos/wall-peg-mould/README.md b/howtos/wall-peg-mould/README.md
index 91e44256a..a4a8bcb00 100644
--- a/howtos/wall-peg-mould/README.md
+++ b/howtos/wall-peg-mould/README.md
@@ -6,6 +6,7 @@ tags: ["product","injection","mould"]
 category: Moulds
 difficulty: Easy
 time: 1-2 weeks
+keywords: 3D model, blueprints, wall peg mold, steel pipe nipple, CNC lathe workshop, mold cavity, Bogota Colombia, plastic injection, mold assembly, wall installation
 location: Bogota, Colombia
 ---
 # Wall Peg mould
diff --git a/howtos/wall-peg-mould/config.json b/howtos/wall-peg-mould/config.json
index b96d220c7..10fc722c7 100644
--- a/howtos/wall-peg-mould/config.json
+++ b/howtos/wall-peg-mould/config.json
@@ -624,5 +624,8 @@
       "urls": []
     }
   },
-  "content": "Here, you will find the 3D model and blueprints required to create the wall peg mold.\n\n\nUser Location: Bogota, Colombia\n\nEnsure all necessary materials are prepared, and review the drawings and instructions thoroughly to gain a comprehensive understanding of the process. This preparation will enable you to work with greater efficiency and precision.\n\nWith all the parts gathered, begin by cutting the steel pipe nipple (number 7) in half to create the mold nozzle. (Refer to drawings on page 3).\n\nObtain the steel disc (item no. 3) and create a central hole with a diameter suitable for a snug fit of one half of the steel pipe nipple (item no. 7). (Refer to drawings on page 4)\n\nTurn one face of the flange to create a 3-inch (7.62 cm) diameter guide to fit the mold body no. 1. (See drawings page 4)\n\nJoin weld number 3 and number 7. Subsequently, chamfer the welded edge using a lathe. (Refer to drawings on page 5)\n\nObtain disc number 4 and drill a 7.14 millimeter (9/32 inch) hole in the center. (Refer to drawings on page 6)\n\nDrill four holes at the edge of discs numbered 3 and 4, then cut the sides. Refer to drawings on pages 4 to 6.\n\nDrill four additional 3/16-inch (4.76 mm) holes in disc number 4. (Refer to drawings on page 6)\n\nTo achieve a curved, smooth, and glossy surface for the mold cavity, obtain parts no. 1-2 and the 3D files and bring them to a competent CNC lathe workshop. They will manage the various file formats, and any uncertainties can be clarified with the drawings. (Refer to drawings on pages 7-8-9)\n\nObtain part no. 5 and cut its corners tangent to a 3-inch (7.62 cm) circle, which is the diameter of part no. 2. (Refer to drawings on page 10)\n\nFrom a thin metal sheet, cut part no. 6 and trim its corners to prevent injuries. With four nails, hammer it in the center of no. 5. (See drawings pages 11-12)\n\nDrill a 3.2 mm (⅛\") hole in the center of parts no. 5 and 6. Insert a screw to create the thread in the wood. (See drawings pages 10-11-12)\n\nAnd you’re done! Here is your Wall Peg mold.\n\nRemember to place a new screw in the wooden mold base each time before injecting. If you forget, the hole will fill with plastic and become unusable. In that case, simply drill it again.\n\nTo open the mold, remove the bolts sideways, then trim the plastic at the entrance and separate the mold parts. Unscrew the peg from the wooden part to have your peg ready.\n\nDue to the plug's volume, it requires time to cool, and the outgoing screw will remain soft. Avoid tilting and ensure it is correctly positioned.\n\nThe mold is compatible with various plastics and is easy to use. Feel free to experiment with different plastics and mixtures.\n\nTo install the peg on the wall, drill a hole and secure it manually using a wall plug."
+  "content": "Here, you will find the 3D model and blueprints required to create the wall peg mold.\n\n\nUser Location: Bogota, Colombia\n\nEnsure all necessary materials are prepared, and review the drawings and instructions thoroughly to gain a comprehensive understanding of the process. This preparation will enable you to work with greater efficiency and precision.\n\nWith all the parts gathered, begin by cutting the steel pipe nipple (number 7) in half to create the mold nozzle. (Refer to drawings on page 3).\n\nObtain the steel disc (item no. 3) and create a central hole with a diameter suitable for a snug fit of one half of the steel pipe nipple (item no. 7). (Refer to drawings on page 4)\n\nTurn one face of the flange to create a 3-inch (7.62 cm) diameter guide to fit the mold body no. 1. (See drawings page 4)\n\nJoin weld number 3 and number 7. Subsequently, chamfer the welded edge using a lathe. (Refer to drawings on page 5)\n\nObtain disc number 4 and drill a 7.14 millimeter (9/32 inch) hole in the center. (Refer to drawings on page 6)\n\nDrill four holes at the edge of discs numbered 3 and 4, then cut the sides. Refer to drawings on pages 4 to 6.\n\nDrill four additional 3/16-inch (4.76 mm) holes in disc number 4. (Refer to drawings on page 6)\n\nTo achieve a curved, smooth, and glossy surface for the mold cavity, obtain parts no. 1-2 and the 3D files and bring them to a competent CNC lathe workshop. They will manage the various file formats, and any uncertainties can be clarified with the drawings. (Refer to drawings on pages 7-8-9)\n\nObtain part no. 5 and cut its corners tangent to a 3-inch (7.62 cm) circle, which is the diameter of part no. 2. (Refer to drawings on page 10)\n\nFrom a thin metal sheet, cut part no. 6 and trim its corners to prevent injuries. With four nails, hammer it in the center of no. 5. (See drawings pages 11-12)\n\nDrill a 3.2 mm (⅛\") hole in the center of parts no. 5 and 6. Insert a screw to create the thread in the wood. (See drawings pages 10-11-12)\n\nAnd you’re done! Here is your Wall Peg mold.\n\nRemember to place a new screw in the wooden mold base each time before injecting. If you forget, the hole will fill with plastic and become unusable. In that case, simply drill it again.\n\nTo open the mold, remove the bolts sideways, then trim the plastic at the entrance and separate the mold parts. Unscrew the peg from the wooden part to have your peg ready.\n\nDue to the plug's volume, it requires time to cool, and the outgoing screw will remain soft. Avoid tilting and ensure it is correctly positioned.\n\nThe mold is compatible with various plastics and is easy to use. Feel free to experiment with different plastics and mixtures.\n\nTo install the peg on the wall, drill a hole and secure it manually using a wall plug.",
+  "keywords": "3D model, blueprints, wall peg mold, steel pipe nipple, CNC lathe workshop, mold cavity, Bogota Colombia, plastic injection, mold assembly, wall installation",
+  "resources": "### Tools & Equipment\n- Metal saw (for cutting steel pipe nipple)  \n- Lathe (for turning flange face and chamfering welds) [lathe basics](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lathe)  \n- CNC lathe workshop (for machining parts #1-2 with 3D files)  \n- Welding machine (for joining components)  \n- Hammer and nails (for assembling part #6)\n\n### Software & Files\n- 3D model files (for CNC machining)  \n- CAD software (for processing drawings - mentioned implicitly)  \n\n### Hardware & Materials  \n- Steel pipe nipple (item #7)  \n- Steel discs (#3-4) with pre-drilled holes  \n- Thin metal sheet (for part #6)  \n- 3.2 mm (⅛\") screws and bolts  \n- Wooden mold base  \n\n### Measurement & Machining  \n- 9/32\" (7.14 mm) drill bit  \n- 3/16\" (4.76 mm) drill bit  \n- Calipers (for verifying diameters)  \n- Thread-cutting tools (for screw holes)  \n\n### Safety & Consumables  \n- Protective gloves and goggles (during metalworking)  \n- Coolant fluid (for CNC lathe operations)  \n- Replacement screws (prevents plastic clogging) [1][2][3]",
+  "references": "## Articles  \n- [How to Build a DIY Pegboard - The Spruce](https://www.thespruce.com/how-to-build-a-diy-pegboard-5225155)  \n- [Injection Molding: The Manufacturing & Design Guide - Hubs](https://www.hubs.com/guides/injection-molding/)  \n- [Injection Molding Wall Thickness Guidelines - TDLMould](https://tdlmould.com/injection-molding-wall-thickness-guidelines-and-design-specifications/)  \n- [DIY Peg Rail Organizer - Paper and Stitch](https://www.papernstitchblog.com/diy-peg-rail-organizer/)  \n\n## YouTube  \n- [Casting Aluminum Wall Hook - YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9AaujAPghhE)  \n\n## Papers  \n- [RIM Part and Mold Design Guide (PDF)](https://reactioninjectionmolding.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/RIM-PartMoldDesignGuide.pdf)  \n\n## Opensource Designs  \n- [Honeycomb Storage Wall 3D Model - Printables](https://www.printables.com/model/152592-honeycomb-storage-wall/remixes)"
 }
\ No newline at end of file
diff --git a/howtos/wall-peg-mould/references.md b/howtos/wall-peg-mould/references.md
new file mode 100644
index 000000000..9c2840193
--- /dev/null
+++ b/howtos/wall-peg-mould/references.md
@@ -0,0 +1,14 @@
+## Articles  
+- [How to Build a DIY Pegboard - The Spruce](https://www.thespruce.com/how-to-build-a-diy-pegboard-5225155)  
+- [Injection Molding: The Manufacturing & Design Guide - Hubs](https://www.hubs.com/guides/injection-molding/)  
+- [Injection Molding Wall Thickness Guidelines - TDLMould](https://tdlmould.com/injection-molding-wall-thickness-guidelines-and-design-specifications/)  
+- [DIY Peg Rail Organizer - Paper and Stitch](https://www.papernstitchblog.com/diy-peg-rail-organizer/)  
+
+## YouTube  
+- [Casting Aluminum Wall Hook - YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9AaujAPghhE)  
+
+## Papers  
+- [RIM Part and Mold Design Guide (PDF)](https://reactioninjectionmolding.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/RIM-PartMoldDesignGuide.pdf)  
+
+## Opensource Designs  
+- [Honeycomb Storage Wall 3D Model - Printables](https://www.printables.com/model/152592-honeycomb-storage-wall/remixes)
\ No newline at end of file
diff --git a/howtos/wall-peg-mould/resources.md b/howtos/wall-peg-mould/resources.md
new file mode 100644
index 000000000..6de34ad33
--- /dev/null
+++ b/howtos/wall-peg-mould/resources.md
@@ -0,0 +1,28 @@
+### Tools & Equipment
+- Metal saw (for cutting steel pipe nipple)  
+- Lathe (for turning flange face and chamfering welds) [lathe basics](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lathe)  
+- CNC lathe workshop (for machining parts #1-2 with 3D files)  
+- Welding machine (for joining components)  
+- Hammer and nails (for assembling part #6)
+
+### Software & Files
+- 3D model files (for CNC machining)  
+- CAD software (for processing drawings - mentioned implicitly)  
+
+### Hardware & Materials  
+- Steel pipe nipple (item #7)  
+- Steel discs (#3-4) with pre-drilled holes  
+- Thin metal sheet (for part #6)  
+- 3.2 mm (⅛") screws and bolts  
+- Wooden mold base  
+
+### Measurement & Machining  
+- 9/32" (7.14 mm) drill bit  
+- 3/16" (4.76 mm) drill bit  
+- Calipers (for verifying diameters)  
+- Thread-cutting tools (for screw holes)  
+
+### Safety & Consumables  
+- Protective gloves and goggles (during metalworking)  
+- Coolant fluid (for CNC lathe operations)  
+- Replacement screws (prevents plastic clogging) [1][2][3]
\ No newline at end of file