machines/howtos/brick-mould/config.json
2023-12-10 18:31:28 +01:00

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"moderation": "accepted",
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"contentType": "application/x-zip-compressed",
"name": "Brick V4.0 Lasercut Files.zip",
"updated": "2020-01-06T13:15:03.543Z",
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"_created": "2019-11-01T14:33:41.856Z",
"tags": [
"mould",
"extrusion",
"product"
],
"total_downloads": 519,
"previousSlugs": [
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],
"category": {
"label": "Moulds",
"_modified": "2022-05-09T21:18:16.628Z",
"_id": "PNQc9KjspF0xU4fMYEin",
"_created": "2022-05-09T21:18:16.628Z",
"_deleted": false
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"title": "Brick mould",
"description": "Recycled plastic has the potential to replace more conventional and wasteful building materials such as hollow blocks. In this How-to, you will learn how to assemble the mould for the extruded plastic brick, ready for production.\n\nThis brick was developed with the Extrusion Pro machine.\nLearn here how to build it: ",
"votedUsefulBy": [
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"_contentModifiedTimestamp": "2023-06-22T20:40:44.236Z",
"creatorCountry": "pt",
"time": "< 1 week",
"_createdBy": "precious-plastic",
"_modified": "2023-11-27T15:40:51.665Z",
"comments": [
{
"creatorCountry": "",
"_id": "Ge9XRQJLgKyDKmERnWx3",
"creatorName": "kwiila",
"text": "What is the approximate, average, or typical size of these bricks?",
"_creatorId": "kwiila",
"_created": "2022-05-26T10:04:07.520Z"
},
{
"_creatorId": "bendobbs",
"_created": "2023-02-12T02:29:04.204Z",
"creatorName": "bendobbs",
"_id": "Y0HDM0tuPAB4n9B6P8nb",
"creatorCountry": "id",
"text": "Here's what I have learned on my own. Times may vary, this is using an Extrusion Pro at full speed, just be aware not all machines are the same so expect some different results.\n\nsingle - 700g - 9.5cm x 9.5cm x 16cm - 4 minutes\ndouble - 1200g - 19.5cm x 9.5cm x 16cm - 8 minutes\ntriple - 1700g - 29.5cm x 9.5cm x 16cm - 12 minutes\n\n***NOTE***\nTo be consistent with output, you should start with your extrusion machine empty, and then start loading it up and run the correct amount of material through the machine. If you go by time alone, you can underfill or overfill depending on size of flakes, type of material, or hopper getting clogged."
}
],
"total_views": 1326,
"mentions": [],
"steps": [
{
"text": "Download the laser cut kit. Then send for fabrication at your local laser cutting service. Note there are three bricks, one full brick and one two-third brick and a one-third brick. All of these are required to build a complete wall. \n\nBefore sending to downloaded dwg files to your metal laser cutting service ensure they understand that your drawings are in MM.\n\nEach brick has tolerances included, but may be specific to your supplier. Before ordering, check that the tolerances conform. In this brick, we use a tolerance of 0.5mm. \n\n",
"title": "Download templates to send for fabrication",
"caption": "",
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"text": "Upon delivery, you should receive various pieces with varying thicknesses. It is good practice to check your parts immediately (compare with drawing) in case any errors have been made. \n",
"title": "Delivery of laser cut parts"
},
{
"caption": "",
"title": "Preparation of parts",
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"text": "Before assembling your mould for welding, all rough edges created by the laser cutting will need to be removed so the mould can be assembled tightly. To do this we used a handheld sander however this can easily be done with a Dremel or by hand with a file. Take extra care not to damage the sharp corners of the metal. \n",
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"text": "The mould comes in 3 key parts. The female top section of the mould requires no welding and is made of interlocking parts that are bolted together. The male lower section is completely welded. Each piece is also named very specifically to help you order and assemble. These names will also be engraved onto the mould to help you assemble. \n\nFor example AB5x2.\n “A” - First letter defines what part group it belongs to. \n“B” - Second letter defines which part it is in that group. \n“5” - First number defines the thickness of the metal in mm the part is made from. \n“x2” - Specifies the number of pieces required per order to complete the mould.\n\n",
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{
"title": "Assembly of the top section (Part A)",
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"text": "Each corner requires 1 bolt and 3 nuts. The bolt should be 45-50 mm long, the nuts are 10mm. Place 6 bolts through the top plate (AD5) and add an additional two nuts to each. This should be followed by the interlocking parts (AB5 & AC5) followed by the bottom plate (AA5). The ideal distance of the two plates (AA5 & AD5) is 20 mm.\n",
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"text": "It is easiest to weld the supporting ribs (BB5, BC5, BE5 & BF5) to the 4 side plates before assembling the sides. To do this place the main plate on the welding table and clamp the ribs individually as you weld. Ensuring the main plate remains flat and does not warp. You will need to use (BG5) to ensure even spacing at the top and bottom. \n\nRepeat these steps for the other 3 sides.\n",
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"text": "Once all of the ribs have been tacked, turn the plates over and weld (while clamped) the groves.",
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"title": "Internal welding"
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"title": "Smoothing the inside",
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"text": "Once cooled, grind away the welds ensuring the surface on the inside is completely smooth. Take care to not over grind the weld. Then sand the surface removing any finer imperfections. "
},
{
"title": "Putting the sides together",
"_animationKey": "uniqueg7wa6p",
"text": "Once all 4 sides have been sanded on the inside, place them together as seen in the diagram and weld them together. A clamp may be useful in this process. \n",
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"title": "Adding the bottom and top frame",
"text": "Once all 4 sides have been welded. Place part number (BG5) on the bottom and part (BI5) on the top. This may need a gentle hammering to fit, but must not be forced otherwise it may bend. \n\nOnce in place clamp together. Ensuring the inside surface is smooth and weld any external surface.\n\n"
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"fullPath": "uploads/v2_howtos/wgXKMSyFffTnY7sW8K1n/MALE.jpg",
"type": "image/jpeg",
"size": 53986,
"updated": "2019-11-01T15:58:18.158Z",
"contentType": "image/jpeg",
"downloadUrl": "https://firebasestorage.googleapis.com/v0/b/onearmyworld.appspot.com/o/uploads%2Fv2_howtos%2FwgXKMSyFffTnY7sW8K1n%2FMALE.jpg?alt=media&token=65e12bdc-625a-4490-a52f-482718fb374f"
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],
"text": "The male part of the mould is the final section but is probably the most complicated to assemble. Take these stages slow. \n",
"title": "Prepare the male mould (Part C) "
},
{
"_animationKey": "uniquea5jzmb",
"title": "Weld each hump individually",
"images": [
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"downloadUrl": "https://firebasestorage.googleapis.com/v0/b/onearmyworld.appspot.com/o/uploads%2Fv2_howtos%2FwgXKMSyFffTnY7sW8K1n%2F_DSF0797.jpg?alt=media&token=698f39fa-188d-4ef9-9acc-97a3dc3d89bf",
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],
"text": "The main section comes in many parts that we are going to tackle one at a time. The first is the humps. There are two and they are identical. Clamp them together and weld them along the seams. Preserving the corners. \n\nLike in step 8, use an angle grinder and sander to achieve round and smooth corners.\n"
},
{
"_animationKey": "uniqueawr99f",
"text": "Using part CA5 align parts CE5 and CF5, clamp and weld. Avoid welding CA5 at this point. \n\nYou should be left with a perfect frame to attach the two humps too. \n",
"images": [
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"type": "image/jpeg",
"updated": "2019-11-01T16:05:24.060Z"
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"title": "Weld the base"
},
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"_animationKey": "uniquef425ws",
"text": "Now place the humps on top of the base frame and clamp them tight together.\n\nFirst weld around the outside, then turn the mould over and weld the point where the two humps meet to avoid plastic leaking in the future.\n\nFinish by grinding and sanding the welds again for a smooth surface and round edges. \n",
"title": "Welding the humps to the base",
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"title": "Adding the support structure",
"text": "Take part CA5 and clamp to the base, Tack welding on the inside only baring in mind that parts CB5, CC5 and CCD will be placed inside. Once all parts are placed inside weld all accessible ribs in full. Clamping like previous steps. ",
"images": [
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{
"text": "Take part DA10 and place it onto the surface of AD5 in the marked out space. Use an 8mm drill bit to ensure perfect alignment of the holes and weld only on the shortest of the two sides. Then place part DB5 ensuring it fits with your extrusion adapter. (See Extrusion Adapter How To). Again welding only the top sections. ",
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],
"title": "Add the quick release nozzle",
"_animationKey": "uniqueos6j9"
},
{
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"title": "Adding bolt release mechanism",
"text": "To ensure we can always take the mould apart we need to install a set of bolts that prevent the mould from being stuck together. To do this, we disassemble the top section of the mould (Part A). Taking part AD5x1, thread a bolt through the bottom of the two 12mm holes and tighten the nut until it is placed firmly on the surface of the part. Then weld the nut that is on the top surface of the mould, ensuring no weld touches the nut.\n\nRepeat with this process with part AA5.\n",
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{
"title": "Fully assemble",
"text": "Fully assemble all parts, connecting A to B using bolts. and you should be left with something like this. \n",
"_animationKey": "unique6ppjqg",
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],
"text": "The mould is almost ready. Depending on if you purchased a Stainless Steel mould or Mild steel, you may want to combat rust with a nice coat of paint. \n\nYou will need something that can handle high temperatures above 300c, we use paint for fireplaces or engine parts. Spraying only the external surfaces of the mould. To protect the inside of the mould we use light rubbing of oil after every use. ",
"title": "Paint",
"_animationKey": "uniqueyntd9o"
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{
"text": "Well done, now youre ready to extrude!\n\nFind advice for the extruding process in the How-to “Extrude into closed moulds”:\n👉 https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/extrude-into-a-closed-mould\n\nAnd learn how to \"Build brick structures\":\n👉 https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/build-brick-structures\n",
"title": "Ready to make bricks!?",
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