machines/howtos/make-a-lightswitch-and-socket/config.json
2023-12-10 18:31:28 +01:00

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"_created": "2022-08-11T13:25:03.834Z",
"creatorName": "martijn",
"text": "Hi, i am experimenting with the socket. The switch will be next. Can you explain in more detail the function of the sliders in section 2? I do not understand there function. Much appreciated, Martijn",
"_id": "mWLfjpFVbxdAy6SivtIj",
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"_created": "2022-08-17T17:40:59.446Z",
"creatorName": "easymoulds",
"_id": "aXgjbHxx7Z7HVkP5Zb7K",
"text": "Hi Martijn, here Fritz who made the mould. \nThe pins (drill bits) create a hole later in the part that is required to shape a feature within the mould that allows the switch to rotate around this hole. \nProfessionally you would use special pieces for that but in this simple example some plain pins did the job just fine!\n\nAll the best\nFritz",
"creatorCountry": "de",
"_creatorId": "cDfWqCI0NidOCidP26qeYhBntpQ2"
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{
"_creatorId": "edgarostrowski",
"text": "Very nice, but this is only the face plate for the socket or switch. What about the rest? Can you please provide some details about the rest of parts that are needed to create a working device? Thanks!",
"_edited": "2022-10-27T14:07:57.090Z",
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"_created": "2022-10-27T12:48:46.182Z",
"creatorName": "edgarostrowski",
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{
"_created": "2022-10-28T11:51:42.359Z",
"text": "It's based on a Schneider system M Socket @@{nwPZci7vjiWesIq6i3l5itczVcm1:edgarostrowski}",
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"_creatorId": "edgarostrowski",
"creatorName": "edgarostrowski",
"text": "@@{DAohaToZaTceMO647ZAQyHL6eWD2:precious-plastic} Thank you 🙂",
"_created": "2022-10-28T14:13:26.328Z",
"creatorCountry": "pl"
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"_creatorId": "martijn",
"_id": "1CWyEHA13A8X3R1d8gEy",
"text": "Thank you @@{cDfWqCI0NidOCidP26qeYhBntpQ2:easymoulds} for the undercut info. I have the moulds made and now it all makes sense! As mentioned above the socket is based on the Schuko Type F power socket with center screw installation. (please correct me when wrong) \nOn what type is the switch based on? \nMuch appreciated,\nMartijn",
"creatorName": "martijn",
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"_created": "2023-06-14T13:19:47.129Z",
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"text": "Anybody selling this in the Bazar? I can't find !",
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"description": "Making decorative objects and handcrafts is one thing, but is recycled plastic capable of replacing industrially manufactured and standardized components? The lightswitch and socket proof that!",
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"title": "Make the moulds: CNC",
"text": "Those pieces will be injected, so you need the moulds and access to an Injection machine.\n\nFor the mould-making, download the files above and CNC-mill it yourself or send it to a mould maker. \n\nIn the latter case, make sure to communicate clearly if your part is designed as the resulted part or already oversized to compensate for shrinkage. The file attached above is the actual size of the end result, so you need to scale it depending on your material. For the PP we used we scaled the model up by 2,6%.",
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"text": "The lightswitch cover needs holes for sliders to achieve a snap connector feature which shapes an undercut.\n\nDrill the corresponding holes perpendicular to the unmoulding direction and use a tightly fitting pin (e.g. the back of the drill or a parallel pin) as slider.",
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"text": "Due to the very thin walled diaphragm injection gate, preheating the lightswitch frames mould makes the process of injecting easier. The amount of plastic needed for all parts is about half a barrel, but rather work with a full barrel to ensure enough pressure.\n\nAs the mould is quite intricate and detailed, a plastic with good flow characteristics is required. \n\ne injected PP on 270/280°C (barrel/nozzle), but a few tests might be necessary to calibrate your machine.",
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"title": "Inject the parts",
"text": "Time to inject. The plastic should be evenly molten to easily spread within the mould, so it might run out of the nozzle just because of gravity. Use a plug thats screwed into the nozzle and remove it right before you start injecting.\n\nAct fast and keep the pressure for a couple of seconds before lifting the lever. This will prevent sink marks as the plastic is cooling down under pressure."
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"text": "Once injected, you can take out the sliders and open the mould. You dont need to wait additionally for the plastic to cool down, the time it takes to open the mould is a sufficient cooldown time. \n\nEspecially the lightswitch cover sits pretty tightly in the mould and levering with a spatula is needed. It helps much to lift the part evenly from each side to eject the parts.\n\nTake care that you dont scratch the mould cavity with metal tools. ",
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"text": "Break the injection point along the predetermined breaking points. If necessary use a knife to shave off excess material.",
"title": "Finish",
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"text": "Your parts are ready!\n\nKeep in mind that this product is in direct contact with high voltage electricity, so dont try to mount it yourself unless youre qualified. \n\nShould one of the parts break, you can simply shred and melt it again, or bring it to another Precious Plastic workspace where they can recycle the plastic. :)",
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