generated from polymech/site-template
model:directory - Heil Dave :)
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{
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"title": "Prepare your colour",
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"_animationKey": "unique91268a",
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"text": "Now we use pigment to add colour to the transparent polystyrene. You can find it online (search for 'pigment for polystyrene'), but do check out if you can find it in a local shop. Using pigment has the advantage that it keeps the translucency of your material. If you only have access to coloured PS plastic, you will probably not get the same effect (unless the plastic is also translucent), so this will need some testing.\n
Start by cutting one pellet of pigment into smaller pieces. The pigment we use (___) has a really strong affect so you only need a small amount to mix with.",
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"text": "Now we use pigment to add colour to the transparent polystyrene. You can find it online (search for 'pigment for polystyrene'), but do check out if you can find it in a local shop. Using pigment has the advantage that it keeps the translucency of your material. If you only have access to coloured PS plastic, you will probably not get the same effect (unless the plastic is also translucent), so this will need some testing.\nStart by cutting one pellet of pigment into smaller pieces. The pigment we use (___) has a really strong affect so you only need a small amount to mix with.",
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"images": [
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{
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"fullPath": "uploads/v2_howtos/2XnZ8QCPx4QAfmy0w8Sc/howto-beams-glass-4-1.jpg",
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]
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},
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{
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"text": "Now we use the re-shredded excess material from the previous process which makes the colour more cloudy. In this example we used the following mixture:\nMixture: 70% clear PS
, 30% shredded PS-pigment-mix\n\nStart by putting your clear PS into the extruder followed by the PS-pigment-mix. You can experiment with adding more colour by putting pigment back into this mixture to create dynamic colour tones and patterns.\n\nP.S. Keep collecting your left over material to melt it again, this is the stuff that will make your material glass-like.",
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"text": "Now we use the re-shredded excess material from the previous process which makes the colour more cloudy. In this example we used the following mixture:\nMixture: 70% clear PS, 30% shredded PS-pigment-mix\n\nStart by putting your clear PS into the extruder followed by the PS-pigment-mix. You can experiment with adding more colour by putting pigment back into this mixture to create dynamic colour tones and patterns.\n\nP.S. Keep collecting your left over material to melt it again, this is the stuff that will make your material glass-like.",
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"_animationKey": "uniquehj42fe",
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"title": "Extrude (2) - Cloudy colours",
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"images": [
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@ -5566,7 +5566,7 @@
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],
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"title": "Explore the possibilities!",
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"_animationKey": "uniquemjlfze",
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"text": "Et voilá , this is how you create beams and materials with magical colours, transparencies and patterns. As the mixing process is hard to control, achieving exactly the same outcome is unrealistic. But the beauty of melting plastic this way is that each piece will be unique! The transparency of PS offers itself perfectly for lighting, like shown in our how-to \"Make a lamp from PS\"
.\n\nBut the further possibilities of this material can be taken into many other directions.
\nHave fun exploring!"
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"text": "Et voilá , this is how you create beams and materials with magical colours, transparencies and patterns. As the mixing process is hard to control, achieving exactly the same outcome is unrealistic. But the beauty of melting plastic this way is that each piece will be unique! The transparency of PS offers itself perfectly for lighting, like shown in our how-to \"Make a lamp from PS\".\n\nBut the further possibilities of this material can be taken into many other directions.\nHave fun exploring!"
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}
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],
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"votedUsefulBy": [
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"steps": [
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{
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"title": "Prepare all the materials and tools",
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"text": "Here’s what you need:\n- The HDPE plastic board that you’re going to bend: \n - 30 cm x 10,5 cm, 5 mm (thickness)
\n - ⌀9,5 cm, 5 mm (thickness)
\n- A portable sanding machine
\n- A soldering iron
\n- A table saw\n- Rope
\n",
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"text": "Here’s what you need:\n- The HDPE plastic board that you’re going to bend: \n - 30 cm x 10,5 cm, 5 mm (thickness)\n - ⌀9,5 cm, 5 mm (thickness) \n- A portable sanding machine\n- A soldering iron\n- A table saw\n- Rope\n",
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"images": [
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{
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"downloadUrl": "https://firebasestorage.googleapis.com/v0/b/onearmyworld.appspot.com/o/uploads%2Fhowtos%2FW615NbZs4wPHdGvBAMkb%2F1-186ba254193.jpg?alt=media&token=99a95004-43c0-4e17-b02d-714e770d3c9f",
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}
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],
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"_animationKey": "unique3",
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"text": "In order to avoid any deformation and the possibility to break the piece we recommend to pre-drill a hole with a slightly smaller diameter than the screw (e.g. for a 3mm wood screw you’ll pre-drill a 2mm hole). This is especially needed for holes which are closer than 8mm to the edge and when working with PS in general.\n\n
Setup:\nThe best way to drill through plastic is a combination of a metal drill bit and setting the machine at high speed. Special attention while working with brittle plastics like PS since one of the sides generally ends up chipped."
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"text": "In order to avoid any deformation and the possibility to break the piece we recommend to pre-drill a hole with a slightly smaller diameter than the screw (e.g. for a 3mm wood screw you’ll pre-drill a 2mm hole). This is especially needed for holes which are closer than 8mm to the edge and when working with PS in general.\n\nSetup:\nThe best way to drill through plastic is a combination of a metal drill bit and setting the machine at high speed. Special attention while working with brittle plastics like PS since one of the sides generally ends up chipped."
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},
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{
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"text": "Depending on the type of screw you choose you can use a countersink bit to countersink one side of the hole.",
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@ -44714,7 +44714,7 @@
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"title": "Test local manufacturers"
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},
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{
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"text": "With the processes more or less figured out, we started producing the recycled parts for a 24m boat! They were HUGE!
\n\nThe quality was very rough, but it was good to see that it was possible. And as this hasn’t been done before and was going to be a big investment, we decided to make a “smaller” 9m prototype first.\n\nSo in the next step you'll see how we actually made the Flipflopi Dogo (“dogo” = “small” in Kiswahili).",
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"text": "With the processes more or less figured out, we started producing the recycled parts for a 24m boat! They were HUGE!\n\nThe quality was very rough, but it was good to see that it was possible. And as this hasn’t been done before and was going to be a big investment, we decided to make a “smaller” 9m prototype first.\n\nSo in the next step you'll see how we actually made the Flipflopi Dogo (“dogo” = “small” in Kiswahili).",
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"title": "We started",
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"_animationKey": "unique89rnqd",
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"images": [
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"_animationKey": "uniquejeff9f"
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},
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{
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"text": "For the planks we collaborated with other manufacturers in Nairobi, which also produce fencing posts as well as other construction material.\n
\nIt's a quite common practice there to mix in sawdust to make the material stiffer and cheaper to produce (but that material mix also breaks much easier than pure plastic). It took a couple of attempts, but in the end we managed to get the 100% recycled plastic planks.\n\nThese planks were produced with professional, industrial machines, but could definitely be made with the Precious Plastic Extrusion Pro as well! (More info here: https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/build/extrusionpro)",
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"text": "For the planks we collaborated with other manufacturers in Nairobi, which also produce fencing posts as well as other construction material.\n\nIt's a quite common practice there to mix in sawdust to make the material stiffer and cheaper to produce (but that material mix also breaks much easier than pure plastic). It took a couple of attempts, but in the end we managed to get the 100% recycled plastic planks.\n\nThese planks were produced with professional, industrial machines, but could definitely be made with the Precious Plastic Extrusion Pro as well! (More info here: https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/build/extrusionpro)",
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"_animationKey": "unique4wm7to",
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"images": [
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{
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],
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"title": "Prepare all the materials and tools",
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"_animationKey": "unique1",
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"text": "Here’s what you need:\n- The HDPE plastic board that you’re going to bend: \n - 30 cm x 10,5 cm, 5 mm (thickness)
\n - ⌀9,5 cm, 5 mm (thickness)
\n- A portable sanding machine
\n- A soldering iron
\n- A table saw\n- Rope
\n"
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"text": "Here’s what you need:\n- The HDPE plastic board that you’re going to bend: \n - 30 cm x 10,5 cm, 5 mm (thickness)\n - ⌀9,5 cm, 5 mm (thickness) \n- A portable sanding machine\n- A soldering iron\n- A table saw\n- Rope\n"
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},
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{
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"title": "Score the plastic",
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{
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"_animationKey": "unique1",
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"title": "Prepare all the materials and tools",
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"text": "Here’s what you need:\n- The HDPE plastic board that you’re going to bend: \n - 30 cm x 10,5 cm, 5 mm (thickness)
\n - ⌀9,5 cm, 5 mm (thickness)
\n- A portable sanding machine
\n- A soldering iron
\n- A table saw\n- Rope
\n",
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"text": "Here’s what you need:\n- The HDPE plastic board that you’re going to bend: \n - 30 cm x 10,5 cm, 5 mm (thickness)\n - ⌀9,5 cm, 5 mm (thickness) \n- A portable sanding machine\n- A soldering iron\n- A table saw\n- Rope\n",
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"images": [
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{
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"contentType": "image/jpeg",
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},
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{
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"_animationKey": "unique2",
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"text": "For a high quality product, a high quality mould is the key!\nIn order to create a clean and shiny sheet, you need a very smooth and shiny mould. It might take time to get there but it will pay off in the end: The shinier the mould is,the shinier will be the result of your sheets (and less finishing work to do).\n\nMould material:
\nFor a shiny plastic sheet we recommend to use a stainless steel mould, as it’s a good material to polish. But take care because it’s also easy to scratch and fairly more expensive than other metals.\n\nMould treatment:\nWe suggest to use silicon oil as mould release in order to protect the mould during the process and help demoulding the material. Also pay attention to clean the mould after every cycle in order to extend the mould life, and to keep a good output quality.",
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"text": "For a high quality product, a high quality mould is the key!\nIn order to create a clean and shiny sheet, you need a very smooth and shiny mould. It might take time to get there but it will pay off in the end: The shinier the mould is,the shinier will be the result of your sheets (and less finishing work to do).\n\nMould material:\nFor a shiny plastic sheet we recommend to use a stainless steel mould, as it’s a good material to polish. But take care because it’s also easy to scratch and fairly more expensive than other metals.\n\nMould treatment:\nWe suggest to use silicon oil as mould release in order to protect the mould during the process and help demoulding the material. Also pay attention to clean the mould after every cycle in order to extend the mould life, and to keep a good output quality.",
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"images": [
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{
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"contentType": "image/jpeg",
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},
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{
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"text": "To help you being consistent with size over time, mark the highest point where you want the extruded plastic to reach.",
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"title": "Mark the mould
",
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"title": "Mark the mould ",
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"_animationKey": "uniquezrhc9j",
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"images": [
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{
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}
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],
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"_animationKey": "unique1",
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"text": "There are many types of filters and most of them (at least the simple ones) work with sort of a membrane, which keeps the dirt. The big problem with these is though, that they will eventually clog up and then need to be cleaned or replaced. On top of that, they can be quite expensive and hard to get.\n\n
The process of rapid sand filtration uses filter sand as a membrane, which is way easier to get. Dirty water is pumped through a thick layer of sand, which keeps a high amount of contaminants. The advantage of this filter is that the sand is easy to clean through a process called backwashing. Big versions of it are used in public water recycling facilities, but there is also a smaller version used to clean swimming pools, which is more interesting for us.\n\nSo there are two options, either buy one or make one. We recommend to first check out what’s available (to save time and maybe even costs), but here we provide a manual for everyone who want or have to build it themselves.",
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"text": "There are many types of filters and most of them (at least the simple ones) work with sort of a membrane, which keeps the dirt. The big problem with these is though, that they will eventually clog up and then need to be cleaned or replaced. On top of that, they can be quite expensive and hard to get.\n\nThe process of rapid sand filtration uses filter sand as a membrane, which is way easier to get. Dirty water is pumped through a thick layer of sand, which keeps a high amount of contaminants. The advantage of this filter is that the sand is easy to clean through a process called backwashing. Big versions of it are used in public water recycling facilities, but there is also a smaller version used to clean swimming pools, which is more interesting for us.\n\nSo there are two options, either buy one or make one. We recommend to first check out what’s available (to save time and maybe even costs), but here we provide a manual for everyone who want or have to build it themselves.",
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"title": "Why a sand filter and how it works"
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},
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{
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"size": 136467
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}
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],
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"text": "For this size of the filter, we are going to need:\n- 30 litre HDPE barrel\n- PVC pipes, fittings and one-inch hoses\n- silicone or another flexible sealant\n- a pump with roughly 650 watts and 3800 litres/hour flow rate (though any similar sized garden pump should work)\n\n- filter sand, grain size 0.4 - 0.8mm
\n- a pre-filter to avoid big contaminants to clog up the pump\n- a waterproof manometer with a pressure range between 0-3 bar\n\n- roughly 7m steel profiles (30x30)\n- 6x 8mm bolts\n- 4x casters\n\nTools:\n- drill \n- saw\n- aligator wrench\n- hot air gun or oven (to heat up plastic)\n- welding machine",
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"text": "For this size of the filter, we are going to need:\n- 30 litre HDPE barrel\n- PVC pipes, fittings and one-inch hoses\n- silicone or another flexible sealant\n- a pump with roughly 650 watts and 3800 litres/hour flow rate (though any similar sized garden pump should work)\n\n- filter sand, grain size 0.4 - 0.8mm\n- a pre-filter to avoid big contaminants to clog up the pump\n- a waterproof manometer with a pressure range between 0-3 bar\n\n- roughly 7m steel profiles (30x30)\n- 6x 8mm bolts\n- 4x casters\n\nTools:\n- drill \n- saw\n- aligator wrench\n- hot air gun or oven (to heat up plastic)\n- welding machine",
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"title": "Get your materials",
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"_animationKey": "unique2"
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},
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}
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],
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"_animationKey": "unique1xzjn",
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"text": "Drilling holes in the barrel weakens the structure. As there will be pressure of more than 1 bar on it later on, reinforcing that part is needed to avoid damage.
\n\nCut a thick piece of HDPE roughly 200 x 120 mm and again drill two holes with the 45 mm Forstner drill bit, with the same distance as in the barrel.\n\nAs the HDPE sheet is flat and the barrel is round it needs to be brought in to the same shape.
Heat up the sheet with a hot air gun (wear a mask!) or in the oven until it is soft enough to be reshaped easily. \n\nPut on work gloves and use the bulkhead fittings to tighten the soft sheet inside the barrel. This way it will copy the exact form.\n\nOnce cooled down remove the bulkhead fittings, apply silicone or HDPE glue to the sheet and tighten again with the fittings. Now let the glue cure and the reinforcement is done."
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"text": "Drilling holes in the barrel weakens the structure. As there will be pressure of more than 1 bar on it later on, reinforcing that part is needed to avoid damage. \n\nCut a thick piece of HDPE roughly 200 x 120 mm and again drill two holes with the 45 mm Forstner drill bit, with the same distance as in the barrel.\n\nAs the HDPE sheet is flat and the barrel is round it needs to be brought in to the same shape. Heat up the sheet with a hot air gun (wear a mask!) or in the oven until it is soft enough to be reshaped easily. \n\nPut on work gloves and use the bulkhead fittings to tighten the soft sheet inside the barrel. This way it will copy the exact form.\n\nOnce cooled down remove the bulkhead fittings, apply silicone or HDPE glue to the sheet and tighten again with the fittings. Now let the glue cure and the reinforcement is done."
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},
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{
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"images": [
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"text": "The lid of the barrel usually comes with a rubber sealant, but in our experiences it was not good enough and broke easily. Proper sealing can be achieved by filling up the gap where the rubber was sitting with silicone or another flexible sealant of good quality.\n\nIn this case, Sikaflex is used. Apply it roughly 5mm thick and flatten with the head of a screwdriver or similar object. Make sure to let it dry for the appropriate amount of time (mentioned in the data sheet of the sealant)."
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},
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{
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"text": "The barrel is going to sit inside a metal frame to enable it to hold pressure. The lid is not constructed to keep pressure from the inside, so it needs reinforcement from the top.\n\nA flat surface will ensure the pressure to be distributed equally. To achieve this, cut out two circles of wood or plastic.\n
Small circle: \tø 240mm, 9mm high \nBig circle:\tø 260 mm, 18mm high\n\nWhen they are cut in size lay them in the lid and proceed with building the frame.",
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"text": "The barrel is going to sit inside a metal frame to enable it to hold pressure. The lid is not constructed to keep pressure from the inside, so it needs reinforcement from the top.\n\nA flat surface will ensure the pressure to be distributed equally. To achieve this, cut out two circles of wood or plastic.\nSmall circle: \tø 240mm, 9mm high \nBig circle:\tø 260 mm, 18mm high\n\nWhen they are cut in size lay them in the lid and proceed with building the frame.",
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"_animationKey": "uniquenjimd",
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"images": [
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{
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"size": 223698
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}
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],
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"text": "The frame provides a solid structure to bring the filter and the pump together and add some casters to make it mobile. To build the frame, cut your steel tubes to the required measurements and weld them together as shown in the picture. \n\nIn addition to this, we use a metal cross to bolt the lid down. Carefully align the holes with the nuts, so the bolts will fit smoothly. One way to do this is to first build the cross, put the bolts in the holes, screw the nuts on the bolts, put the cross in place and weld the nuts to the frame.\n\nWhen all is done, paint the frame frame thoroughly, to prevent it from rusting (as it will be wet frequently).
",
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"text": "The frame provides a solid structure to bring the filter and the pump together and add some casters to make it mobile. To build the frame, cut your steel tubes to the required measurements and weld them together as shown in the picture. \n\nIn addition to this, we use a metal cross to bolt the lid down. Carefully align the holes with the nuts, so the bolts will fit smoothly. One way to do this is to first build the cross, put the bolts in the holes, screw the nuts on the bolts, put the cross in place and weld the nuts to the frame.\n\nWhen all is done, paint the frame frame thoroughly, to prevent it from rusting (as it will be wet frequently).",
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"_animationKey": "uniqueuw709s",
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"title": "Build the Frame"
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},
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"_animationKey": "uniqued3ixz"
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},
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{
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"text": "Cleaning the pre-filter is simple, but needs to be done quite frequently. \n\nFirst, pump the water out. For this, you turn it upside down, turn on the pump and then unscrew it.
The filter capsule then can be taken out, without dirty plastic water all over the place.
\n\nTake a dry dishwashing brush and brush the dirt off the membrane into a container, as it contains lots of micro plastic and you want to avoid it getting into the drainage.",
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"text": "Cleaning the pre-filter is simple, but needs to be done quite frequently. \n\nFirst, pump the water out. For this, you turn it upside down, turn on the pump and then unscrew it. The filter capsule then can be taken out, without dirty plastic water all over the place.\n\nTake a dry dishwashing brush and brush the dirt off the membrane into a container, as it contains lots of micro plastic and you want to avoid it getting into the drainage.",
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"_animationKey": "uniqueiunzpn",
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"images": [
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{
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{
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"_animationKey": "unique1",
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"title": "Gather your materials ",
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"text": "In order to make a jacket from plastic foils, you will first need to gather your tools and materials. These are:\n\nMaterials
\n- plastic foils (see step 3), enough to make four large sheets (70cm x 170cm)
\n- natural fabric such as cotton for the lining
\n
- a heat resistant sheet material such as teflon fabric as a base for ironing/pressing
\n- baking paper which will also be used for ironing/pressing\n- optionally: fastening of some sort for the raincoat (buttons, zip etc)\n\nTools\n
- iron or thermo press
\n- sewing machine, thread and scissors\n\nSafety recommendations\n- respirator mask to prevent the inhalation of plastic fumes!",
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"text": "In order to make a jacket from plastic foils, you will first need to gather your tools and materials. These are:\n\nMaterials\n- plastic foils (see step 3), enough to make four large sheets (70cm x 170cm)\n- natural fabric such as cotton for the lining\n- a heat resistant sheet material such as teflon fabric as a base for ironing/pressing\n- baking paper which will also be used for ironing/pressing\n- optionally: fastening of some sort for the raincoat (buttons, zip etc)\n\nTools\n- iron or thermo press\n- sewing machine, thread and scissors\n\nSafety recommendations\n- respirator mask to prevent the inhalation of plastic fumes!",
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"images": [
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{
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"fullPath": "uploads/howtosV1/oIVF73weEIlVJQYfolcg/plasticdoom_tutorial-3-5.jpg",
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]
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},
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{
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"text": "You will need to work out the required measurements for the jacket. The template below will provide you with a plan for taking and recording these measurements.
\n(A) length of the arm\n(B) length from shoulder to shoulder\n(C) length from shoulder to the neck centre\n(D) body width\n(E) desired length of the raincoat",
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"text": "You will need to work out the required measurements for the jacket. The template below will provide you with a plan for taking and recording these measurements. \n(A) length of the arm\n(B) length from shoulder to shoulder\n(C) length from shoulder to the neck centre\n(D) body width\n(E) desired length of the raincoat",
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"images": [
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{
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"type": "image/jpeg",
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},
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{
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"_animationKey": "unique2",
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"text": "For the pre-washing machine, we are going to need:
\n- a 120 litre HDPE barrel\n- circa 13 m steel profile (30x30mm)\n- 1120 x 16 mm steel pipe\n- 300 x 30 mm flat steel\n- some wood for the wooden board\n- four casters and fittings according to the sand filter \n- two ball valves\n- and flexible pipes (also according to the sand filter)
\n\n- a motor with around 0.5 kW and 1500 r/m (can also be stronger)\n- a frequency inverter fitting to the motor\n\nOptional:\n
- another 120 liter HDPE barrel
\n- two more ball valves
\n- heating element and PID controller\n",
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"text": "For the pre-washing machine, we are going to need:\n- a 120 litre HDPE barrel\n- circa 13 m steel profile (30x30mm)\n- 1120 x 16 mm steel pipe\n- 300 x 30 mm flat steel\n- some wood for the wooden board\n- four casters and fittings according to the sand filter \n- two ball valves\n- and flexible pipes (also according to the sand filter)\n\n- a motor with around 0.5 kW and 1500 r/m (can also be stronger)\n- a frequency inverter fitting to the motor\n\nOptional:\n- another 120 liter HDPE barrel\n- two more ball valves \n- heating element and PID controller\n",
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"title": "Get your materials",
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||||
"images": [
|
||||
{
|
||||
@ -67250,7 +67250,7 @@
|
||||
{
|
||||
"_animationKey": "uniquev6w2ql",
|
||||
"title": "Build the frame",
|
||||
"text": "To build the steel frame is a simple welding job. Cut your steel tubes according to the measurements in the picture. \n\nDrill two 17mm holes above each other in the centre of the frame to add profiles which will keep the mixer shaft in a vertical position. \n
To ensure that the frame always stands stable and straight, weld four nuts into the legs and add bolts with which you can adjust the height individually. \n\nOnce everything is done, give it a proper paint job, to prevent it from rusting (as it can get very wet).",
|
||||
"text": "To build the steel frame is a simple welding job. Cut your steel tubes according to the measurements in the picture. \n\nDrill two 17mm holes above each other in the centre of the frame to add profiles which will keep the mixer shaft in a vertical position. \nTo ensure that the frame always stands stable and straight, weld four nuts into the legs and add bolts with which you can adjust the height individually. \n\nOnce everything is done, give it a proper paint job, to prevent it from rusting (as it can get very wet).",
|
||||
"images": [
|
||||
{
|
||||
"fullPath": "uploads/howtosV1/qzyrnwm4qAy6RgHCpvmb/ERFQrLA3ZsHd9cmls3hxi60QZf6i7o_D8QOsPtYEFcOHqGCHAyDoJDjJ9ia0L6-amxMfOYmm4DeYjZPXY5avPo_27DqMJ5hprmxQBSa6Eke4B06y7IQ4mUQfy6nQl4ztOP05F-GU.jpg",
|
||||
@ -67319,7 +67319,7 @@
|
||||
}
|
||||
],
|
||||
"title": "Build the mixer",
|
||||
"text": "The mixer should move the dirty plastic through the water. After some experiments and tests, this seemed to be the most efficient design for us. Short “arms” ensure that the plastic gets mixed without getting stuck.\n\nWeld the metal sheets to to the steel pipe as shown.
Drill two ø8mm holes on different heights of the steel pipe, so it can be fixed in two different positions: One to mix and one to move the barrel out underneath it.\n\nYou will also need a smaller hole to attach the gear later, but the location depends on how you will connect it.
When done, paint it properly (or even better is to use stainless steel, because the friction will remove the paint fast).\nFinally, drill a 20 mm hole in the centre of the lid, so the mixer can enter the barrel. "
|
||||
"text": "The mixer should move the dirty plastic through the water. After some experiments and tests, this seemed to be the most efficient design for us. Short “arms” ensure that the plastic gets mixed without getting stuck.\n\nWeld the metal sheets to to the steel pipe as shown.Drill two ø8mm holes on different heights of the steel pipe, so it can be fixed in two different positions: One to mix and one to move the barrel out underneath it.\n\nYou will also need a smaller hole to attach the gear later, but the location depends on how you will connect it. When done, paint it properly (or even better is to use stainless steel, because the friction will remove the paint fast).\nFinally, drill a 20 mm hole in the centre of the lid, so the mixer can enter the barrel. "
|
||||
},
|
||||
{
|
||||
"title": "Attach the motor",
|
||||
@ -67398,14 +67398,14 @@
|
||||
"contentType": "image/jpeg"
|
||||
}
|
||||
],
|
||||
"text": "Some contaminants, especially oil and fat, are difficult to remove without warm water. Furthermore it’s very useful to have a second barrel to pump in the water from the first barrel if you need to clean it or reach plastic on the bottom. \n\n
We prepare this barrel in exactly the same way as in step 3, but add a heating element and a PID controller. Heating elements can come in many forms, for example from deep fryers. You need to find solid, waterproof way to connect it to the barrel.\n\nAfterwards, place the thermometer from the PID in the tank and connect the pipes to the system.",
|
||||
"text": "Some contaminants, especially oil and fat, are difficult to remove without warm water. Furthermore it’s very useful to have a second barrel to pump in the water from the first barrel if you need to clean it or reach plastic on the bottom. \n\nWe prepare this barrel in exactly the same way as in step 3, but add a heating element and a PID controller. Heating elements can come in many forms, for example from deep fryers. You need to find solid, waterproof way to connect it to the barrel.\n\nAfterwards, place the thermometer from the PID in the tank and connect the pipes to the system.",
|
||||
"title": "Extra barrel with a heating element",
|
||||
"_animationKey": "unique458f8k"
|
||||
},
|
||||
{
|
||||
"title": "How to pre-wash",
|
||||
"_animationKey": "uniquep3unm",
|
||||
"text": "Now it is time to connect all the pipes to the barrels and the sand filter. Fill up with water and you are good to go.
Before using the pre-washing machine, we recommend to reduce the size of bigger plastic pieces and to remove the very rough dirt like sauces etc. \n\nMix the water in the pre-washing machine with laundry powder or soap, turn on the sand filter so there is a constant loop of water splashing at the plastic and let the motor run.
\n\nAfter a few minutes, your plastic should be clean enough to shred. You can experiment with temperature, the amount of soap and the motor speed.\n",
|
||||
"text": "Now it is time to connect all the pipes to the barrels and the sand filter. Fill up with water and you are good to go. Before using the pre-washing machine, we recommend to reduce the size of bigger plastic pieces and to remove the very rough dirt like sauces etc. \n\nMix the water in the pre-washing machine with laundry powder or soap, turn on the sand filter so there is a constant loop of water splashing at the plastic and let the motor run.\n\nAfter a few minutes, your plastic should be clean enough to shred. You can experiment with temperature, the amount of soap and the motor speed.\n",
|
||||
"images": [
|
||||
{
|
||||
"type": "image/jpeg",
|
||||
@ -414446,7 +414446,7 @@
|
||||
"url": "https://www.patreon.com/one_army"
|
||||
}
|
||||
],
|
||||
"description": "Poonsook.Craft\n(Poonsook Piroj Co., Ltd ) is a social entrepreneur company dedicated to recycled material, recycled products and the conservation sector. Operated since 2018, our Phuket-based firm has been operating in all regions of Thailand. \n\nWe help manage several conservation projects in Thailand with businesses, government, NGOs and International organisations. We work on sustainable design consult, waste management, coastal, and marine life, plastic and air pollution, environmental education and sustainability.
",
|
||||
"description": "Poonsook.Craft\n(Poonsook Piroj Co., Ltd ) is a social entrepreneur company dedicated to recycled material, recycled products and the conservation sector. Operated since 2018, our Phuket-based firm has been operating in all regions of Thailand. \n\nWe help manage several conservation projects in Thailand with businesses, government, NGOs and International organisations. We work on sustainable design consult, waste management, coastal, and marine life, plastic and air pollution, environmental education and sustainability.",
|
||||
"services": [
|
||||
{
|
||||
"welding": false,
|
||||
|
||||
@ -13,6 +13,7 @@ const projects = defineCollection({
|
||||
loader: loader(PROJECTS_BRANCH) as any,
|
||||
schema: ComponentConfigSchema.passthrough(),
|
||||
})
|
||||
|
||||
const helpcenter = defineCollection({
|
||||
schema: z.object({
|
||||
title: z.string(),
|
||||
|
||||
@ -186,9 +186,6 @@ export interface IUserPP extends IUser {
|
||||
isV4Member?: boolean | null
|
||||
}
|
||||
|
||||
export type IUserPPDB = IUserPP;
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
|
||||
//
|
||||
// OSR Specific Namespace
|
||||
@ -275,7 +272,7 @@ export interface Data {
|
||||
images: Image[];
|
||||
}
|
||||
|
||||
export interface I_OSR_USER {
|
||||
export interface I_PC_USER {
|
||||
_created: Date;
|
||||
location: Location;
|
||||
_modified: Date;
|
||||
@ -288,7 +285,7 @@ export interface I_OSR_USER {
|
||||
data: Data;
|
||||
}
|
||||
|
||||
export interface I_USER_SHORT {
|
||||
export interface I_PC_USER_SHORT {
|
||||
name: string;
|
||||
email: string;
|
||||
bazar: string;
|
||||
|
||||
@ -20,7 +20,7 @@
|
||||
"paths": {
|
||||
"@/*": ["src/*"],
|
||||
"site/*": ["src/*"],
|
||||
"config/*": ["src/app/*"]
|
||||
"config/*": ["src/site/*"]
|
||||
}
|
||||
},
|
||||
"include": [".astro/types.d.ts", "**/*.ts", "**/*.tsx", "**/*.astro", "src/content/resources/software-as.mdx"],
|
||||
|
||||
Loading…
Reference in New Issue
Block a user