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babayaga 2025-09-12 11:19:33 +02:00
parent 5c29a874ca
commit 39d3ac856c
521 changed files with 520019 additions and 12660 deletions
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components/shared/electronics/enclosures/vintage-vertical-edc/laser/403_MountPlate_x2_4mm_INOX.DXF
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---
title: Add interchangable patterns to injection moulds
slug: add-interchangable-patterns-to-injection-moulds
description: Utilize lasercut, CNC milled, or handmade plates to incorporate interchangeable text or patterns into injection mold products, including the addition of plastic types or logos.
description: Using lasercut, cnc milled or handmade plates you can add interchangable text or patterns to injection mould products. Add plastic types or logo's to the products.
tags: ["hack","mould","injection"]
category: Guides
difficulty: Medium
time: < 1 week
keywords: laser cutting, CNC milling, interchangeable plates, injection mold products, hexagon tile mold, acrylic plates, aluminum plates, HDPE injection, 3D file requirements, Fusion 360
keywords:
location: Leuven, Belgium
---
# Add interchangable patterns to injection moulds
![Add interchangable patterns to injection moulds](Luminus-Sheep-on-wheels-2.jpg)
Utilize lasercut, CNC milled, or handmade plates to incorporate interchangeable text or patterns into injection mold products, including the addition of plastic types or logos.
Using lasercut, cnc milled or handmade plates you can add interchangable text or patterns to injection mould products. Add plastic types or logo's to the products.
User Location: Leuven, Belgium
## Steps
### Step 1: Have a mould
We are extending an existing mold, specifically a hexagon tile mold. It consists of a three-part flat mold fastened with bolts. Outer dimensions are 15 cm x 15 cm (approx. 6 in x 6 in). The top and bottom plates are 10 mm (approx. 0.4 in) thick, and the center part with the hexagon cutout is 4 mm (approx. 0.16 in) thick.
We are adding a part to an existing mould. In this example we use the hexagon tile mould. It's a simple 3 part flat mould held together with boults. Outer size : 15 x 15 cm. The top and bottom plate are 10mm, the center part with hexagon cutout is 4mm.
We will explain the processes of laser cutting and CNC milling. To access these devices, you might inquire at local facilities such as a Fablab or makerspace, or educational institutions.
We will describe how to do lasercutting and CNC milling. For acces to a lasercutter/cnc milling device you can check with your local Fablab/makerspace, sometimes even high schools or universities.
For the lasercut add ons we use 4mm acrylic plates (15 x15cm).
For the CNC we used 3mm aluminium plates (15 x 15cm).
For laser cut add-ons, we use 4 mm (approx. 0.16 in) acrylic plates sized 15 cm x 15 cm (approx. 6 in x 6 in). For CNC machining, we use 3 mm (approx. 0.12 in) aluminum plates also sized 15 cm x 15 cm.
![Screenshot 2020-02-01 at 15.28.06.png](./Screenshot_2020-02-01_at_15.28.06.png)
@ -31,17 +33,14 @@ For laser cut add-ons, we use 4 mm (approx. 0.16 in) acrylic plates sized 15 cm
### Step 2: Design a pattern
Certainly.
We used software to create different patterns. Make sure the text is mirrored as we are producing a negative. Depending on the technique used you might need a specific export format.
---
You can add information (plastic type, production info) as you wish.
We utilized software to design various patterns. Ensure the text is mirrored when creating a negative. The export format may vary based on your chosen technique.
With lasecutting there is virtually no limit in shapes you can cut. Do mind that smaller detail is harder to inject. In our experience 2-3mm is possible with HDPE injection.
Additional information, such as plastic type and production details, can be included as needed.
When CNC milling the limit is set by the CNC Router bit. As it cuts by turning all corners are smoothed out by the diameter of the CNC Router bit. Check the limit of the machine you are using. We used a 1mm CNC Router bit.
Laser cutting allows for unlimited shapes, though finer details are more challenging. Our experience shows HDPE injection can handle details as small as 0.08-0.12 inches (2-3 mm).
For CNC milling, the detail is limited by the router bit diameter, which rounds corners. Verify the specifications of your machine. We used a 0.04-inch (1 mm) CNC router bit.
![sheeponweels-injection-mould-1-1.jpg](./sheeponweels-injection-mould-1-1.jpg)
@ -51,26 +50,28 @@ For CNC milling, the detail is limited by the router bit diameter, which rounds
### Step 3: Create a compatible file
A 2D file suffices for laser cutting, with PNG and AI formats commonly accepted by various software programs.
When lasercutting a 2D file is sufficient. Some software allows to use PNG, AI or other files.
When CNC milling a 3D file is needed. Using software like Fusion 360 you can change your vector file into a 3D shape.
In our example we've set the cutting depth to 1.5mm.
For CNC milling, a 3D file is necessary. Software such as Fusion 360 can convert vector files into 3D shapes.
In our example, the cutting depth is set to 1.5 millimeters (0.059 inches).
![Screenshot 2020-05-15 at 11.34.57.png](./Screenshot_2020-05-15_at_11.34.57.png)
### Step 4: Lasercut
### Laser Cutter Settings for Acrylic Moulds
Depending on the type of cutter used settings will differ.
The settings for your cutter will vary based on the type of machine. It is advisable to perform test cuts and adjust the laser's speed and intensity accordingly.
Best is to do some test cuts first, changing the speed and intensity of the laser. Acrylic is safe to ut but does smell so dust extraction is advised.
Though acrylic can be safely cut, it does emit an odor; therefore, dust extraction is recommended.
Make sure the pattern is not cut trough the acrylic plate as it will weaken the texture mould and make it less durable (although its possible for some shapes).
Ensure the pattern is not fully cut through the acrylic plate to preserve the mould's durability, except for certain shapes where this might be acceptable.
Make sure the edges are cut through to prevent having to drill and cut manually later on in the proces.
Ensure edges are fully cut to avoid the necessity of manual drilling and cutting later. You can assign different settings to cutting lines to achieve multiple depths in one mould.
You can use multiple depths in one mould by assigning different settings to the cutting lines.
![sheeponweels-injection-mould-4.jpg](./sheeponweels-injection-mould-4.jpg)
@ -83,9 +84,9 @@ Ensure edges are fully cut to avoid the necessity of manual drilling and cutting
### Step 5: CNC milling
Process the file with the software, secure the material, and begin milling.
Run the file through the software, clamp the material in place and start milling.
Conduct speed tests beforehand.
Again it is wise to do some speed tests first.
![sheeponweels-injection-mould-5-1.jpg](./sheeponweels-injection-mould-5-1.jpg)
@ -95,9 +96,11 @@ Conduct speed tests beforehand.
### Step 6: Inject
Insert the texture plate into the mold and begin injecting.
Add the texture plate to the mould and start injecting.
Best results when cooling down the mould quickly.
For optimal results, cool the mold rapidly.
![IMG_5014 copy.jpg](./IMG_5014_copy.jpg)
@ -106,74 +109,4 @@ For optimal results, cool the mold rapidly.
![sheeponweels-injection-mould-6.jpg](./sheeponweels-injection-mould-6.jpg)
## Resources
### Tools & Equipment
- [Laser Cutter](https://www.fablab-leuven.be/) (e.g., Fab Lab Leuven)
- [CNC Milling Machine](https://www.kuleuven.be/english) (e.g., KU Leuven workshops)
- Injection molding machine
- 4 mm acrylic plates (15 cm x 15 cm)
- 3 mm aluminum plates (15 cm x 15 cm)
### Software
- [Autodesk Fusion 360](https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/) (3D modeling for CNC)
- [Adobe Illustrator](https://www.adobe.com/products/illustrator.html) (vector design for laser cutting)
- Laser cutter control software (e.g., RDWorks or machine-specific)
- CNC machine control software (e.g., Mach3, GRBL)
### Materials
- HDPE plastic pellets (for injection molding)
- Acrylic sheets (4 mm thickness)
- Aluminum sheets (3 mm thickness)
- Cooling system (water or air-based for rapid mold cooling)
- Bolts (for mold assembly)
### Design Files
- 2D vector files (PNG/AI formats for laser cutting)[1][5]
- 3D CAD files (for CNC milling)[5][6]
- Mirrored text/patterns (negative design)[3]
- Cutting depth specification (1.5 mm for CNC)[6]
- Multi-depth laser engraving settings[5]
### Safety & Maintenance
- ~~[Dust extraction system](https://www.fablab-leuven.be/facilities)~~ (for laser cutting acrylic)[4]
- Test cuts (calibration for laser/CNC settings)[4][6]
- CNC Router bit verification (≥1 mm diameter for CNC)[6]
- Material clamping tools (vice or vacuum table)
- Protective gear (goggles, gloves during injection)[4]
Local fabrication options in Leuven include Fab Lab Leuven for laser cutting/CNC access and KU Leuven’s engineering workshops[2].
## References
## Articles
- [Everything You Need to Know About CNC Machining for Injection Mold Making](https://www.mastercam.com/news/blog/everything-you-need-to-know-about-cnc-machining-for-injection-mold-making/)
- [Intro to Plastic Injection Mold Making](https://www.paulsonmfg.com/blog/intro-to-plastic-injection-mold-making/)
- [A Beginner's Guide to Injection Molding](https://www.protolabs.com/resources/guides-and-trend-reports/designing-for-moldability-fundamental-elements/)
## Books
- *Runner and Gating Design Handbook Second Edition: Tools for Successful Injection Molding* (John Beaumont): [Link](https://www.beaumontinc.com/about/books-by-beaumont/)
- *Successful Injection Molding: Process, Design, and Simulation* (John Beaumont): [Link](https://www.beaumontinc.com/about/books-by-beaumont/)
## Papers
- [Effect of Femtosecond-Laser-Structured Injection Molding Tool on Mechanical Properties](https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC8272158/)
- ~~[Enhancement of Low-Power CO₂ Laser Cutting for Injection-Molded Polycarbonate](https://pure.northampton.ac.uk/files/37975388/Moradi_et_OLT_2017_Enhancement_of_low_power_CO2_laser_cutting_process_for_injection_molded_polycarbonate.pdf)~~
## YouTube
- [Laser Model Making Basics Tutorial Guide](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=17Pg3QJk00o)
## Open-Source Designs
- [Step-by-Step Laser-Cut Molds for Thermoforming (Instructables)](https://www.instructables.com/Laser-Cut-Forms-for-Thermoforming-Vacuum-Forming/)
- [Fab Academy Week 13 Assignment: Mold Fabrication](https://fabacademy.org/2024/labs/chaihuo/students/matthew-yu/docs/week13_assignment)
- [Soft Robotics Toolkit: Laser-Cutting Mold Parts](https://softroboticstoolkit.com/laser-cut-molds/mold-fabrication/laser-cutting)
## Manufacturer Guides
- [Plastic Injection Mold Making (CS Tool Engineering)](https://www.cste.com/services/plastic-injection-mold-making)
- [Injection Molding vs CNC Machining (3ERP)](https://www.3erp.com/blog/injection-molding-vs-cnc-machining/)
## References

20
howtos/add-interchangable-patterns-to-injection-moulds/config.json
View File

@ -37,12 +37,12 @@
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"description": "Utilize lasercut, CNC milled, or handmade plates to incorporate interchangeable text or patterns into injection mold products, including the addition of plastic types or logos.",
"description": "Using lasercut, cnc milled or handmade plates you can add interchangable text or patterns to injection mould products. Add plastic types or logo's to the products.",
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"title": "Have a mould",
"text": "We are extending an existing mold, specifically a hexagon tile mold. It consists of a three-part flat mold fastened with bolts. Outer dimensions are 15 cm x 15 cm (approx. 6 in x 6 in). The top and bottom plates are 10 mm (approx. 0.4 in) thick, and the center part with the hexagon cutout is 4 mm (approx. 0.16 in) thick.\n\nWe will explain the processes of laser cutting and CNC milling. To access these devices, you might inquire at local facilities such as a Fablab or makerspace, or educational institutions.\n\nFor laser cut add-ons, we use 4 mm (approx. 0.16 in) acrylic plates sized 15 cm x 15 cm (approx. 6 in x 6 in). For CNC machining, we use 3 mm (approx. 0.12 in) aluminum plates also sized 15 cm x 15 cm.",
"text": "We are adding a part to an existing mould. In this example we use the hexagon tile mould. It's a simple 3 part flat mould held together with boults. Outer size : 15 x 15 cm. The top and bottom plate are 10mm, the center part with hexagon cutout is 4mm.\n\nWe will describe how to do lasercutting and CNC milling. For acces to a lasercutter/cnc milling device you can check with your local Fablab/makerspace, sometimes even high schools or universities.\n\nFor the lasercut add ons we use 4mm acrylic plates (15 x15cm).\nFor the CNC we used 3mm aluminium plates (15 x 15cm).\n",
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@ -72,7 +72,7 @@
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"text": "Certainly.\n\n---\n\nWe utilized software to design various patterns. Ensure the text is mirrored when creating a negative. The export format may vary based on your chosen technique.\n\nAdditional information, such as plastic type and production details, can be included as needed.\n\nLaser cutting allows for unlimited shapes, though finer details are more challenging. Our experience shows HDPE injection can handle details as small as 0.08-0.12 inches (2-3 mm).\n\nFor CNC milling, the detail is limited by the router bit diameter, which rounds corners. Verify the specifications of your machine. We used a 0.04-inch (1 mm) CNC router bit.",
"text": "We used software to create different patterns. Make sure the text is mirrored as we are producing a negative. Depending on the technique used you might need a specific export format.\n\nYou can add information (plastic type, production info) as you wish.\n\nWith lasecutting there is virtually no limit in shapes you can cut. Do mind that smaller detail is harder to inject. In our experience 2-3mm is possible with HDPE injection. \n\nWhen CNC milling the limit is set by the CNC Router bit. As it cuts by turning all corners are smoothed out by the diameter of the CNC Router bit. Check the limit of the machine you are using. We used a 1mm CNC Router bit. \n",
"_animationKey": "unique1",
"title": "Design a pattern",
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@ -119,10 +119,10 @@
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"title": "Create a compatible file ",
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"text": "When lasercutting a 2D file is sufficient. Some software allows to use PNG, AI or other files. \n\nWhen CNC milling a 3D file is needed. Using software like Fusion 360 you can change your vector file into a 3D shape.\n\nIn our example we've set the cutting depth to 1.5mm.\n\n"
},
{
"text": "### Laser Cutter Settings for Acrylic Moulds\n\nThe settings for your cutter will vary based on the type of machine. It is advisable to perform test cuts and adjust the laser's speed and intensity accordingly. \n\nThough acrylic can be safely cut, it does emit an odor; therefore, dust extraction is recommended. \n\nEnsure the pattern is not fully cut through the acrylic plate to preserve the mould's durability, except for certain shapes where this might be acceptable.\n\nEnsure edges are fully cut to avoid the necessity of manual drilling and cutting later. You can assign different settings to cutting lines to achieve multiple depths in one mould.",
"text": "Depending on the type of cutter used settings will differ. \n\nBest is to do some test cuts first, changing the speed and intensity of the laser. Acrylic is safe to ut but does smell so dust extraction is advised. \n\nMake sure the pattern is not cut trough the acrylic plate as it will weaken the texture mould and make it less durable (although its possible for some shapes).\n\nMake sure the edges are cut through to prevent having to drill and cut manually later on in the proces. \n\nYou can use multiple depths in one mould by assigning different settings to the cutting lines. ",
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"text": "Process the file with the software, secure the material, and begin milling.\n\nConduct speed tests beforehand."
"text": "Run the file through the software, clamp the material in place and start milling. \n\nAgain it is wise to do some speed tests first. "
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"_animationKey": "uniquebit9wr",
"text": "Insert the texture plate into the mold and begin injecting. \n\nFor optimal results, cool the mold rapidly.",
"text": "Add the texture plate to the mould and start injecting. \n\nBest results when cooling down the mould quickly.\n\n",
"title": "Inject",
"images": [
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@ -408,9 +408,5 @@
"images": []
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},
"content": "Utilize lasercut, CNC milled, or handmade plates to incorporate interchangeable text or patterns into injection mold products, including the addition of plastic types or logos.\n\n\nUser Location: Leuven, Belgium\n\nWe are extending an existing mold, specifically a hexagon tile mold. It consists of a three-part flat mold fastened with bolts. Outer dimensions are 15 cm x 15 cm (approx. 6 in x 6 in). The top and bottom plates are 10 mm (approx. 0.4 in) thick, and the center part with the hexagon cutout is 4 mm (approx. 0.16 in) thick.\n\nWe will explain the processes of laser cutting and CNC milling. To access these devices, you might inquire at local facilities such as a Fablab or makerspace, or educational institutions.\n\nFor laser cut add-ons, we use 4 mm (approx. 0.16 in) acrylic plates sized 15 cm x 15 cm (approx. 6 in x 6 in). For CNC machining, we use 3 mm (approx. 0.12 in) aluminum plates also sized 15 cm x 15 cm.\n\nCertainly.\n\n---\n\nWe utilized software to design various patterns. Ensure the text is mirrored when creating a negative. The export format may vary based on your chosen technique.\n\nAdditional information, such as plastic type and production details, can be included as needed.\n\nLaser cutting allows for unlimited shapes, though finer details are more challenging. Our experience shows HDPE injection can handle details as small as 0.08-0.12 inches (2-3 mm).\n\nFor CNC milling, the detail is limited by the router bit diameter, which rounds corners. Verify the specifications of your machine. We used a 0.04-inch (1 mm) CNC router bit.\n\nA 2D file suffices for laser cutting, with PNG and AI formats commonly accepted by various software programs.\n\nFor CNC milling, a 3D file is necessary. Software such as Fusion 360 can convert vector files into 3D shapes.\n\nIn our example, the cutting depth is set to 1.5 millimeters (0.059 inches).\n\n### Laser Cutter Settings for Acrylic Moulds\n\nThe settings for your cutter will vary based on the type of machine. It is advisable to perform test cuts and adjust the laser's speed and intensity accordingly. \n\nThough acrylic can be safely cut, it does emit an odor; therefore, dust extraction is recommended. \n\nEnsure the pattern is not fully cut through the acrylic plate to preserve the mould's durability, except for certain shapes where this might be acceptable.\n\nEnsure edges are fully cut to avoid the necessity of manual drilling and cutting later. You can assign different settings to cutting lines to achieve multiple depths in one mould.\n\nProcess the file with the software, secure the material, and begin milling.\n\nConduct speed tests beforehand.\n\nInsert the texture plate into the mold and begin injecting. \n\nFor optimal results, cool the mold rapidly.",
"keywords": "laser cutting, CNC milling, interchangeable plates, injection mold products, hexagon tile mold, acrylic plates, aluminum plates, HDPE injection, 3D file requirements, Fusion 360",
"resources": "### Tools & Equipment\n\n- [Laser Cutter](https://www.fablab-leuven.be/) (e.g., Fab Lab Leuven)\n- [CNC Milling Machine](https://www.kuleuven.be/english) (e.g., KU Leuven workshops)\n- Injection molding machine\n- 4 mm acrylic plates (15 cm x 15 cm)\n- 3 mm aluminum plates (15 cm x 15 cm)\n\n### Software\n\n- [Autodesk Fusion 360](https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/) (3D modeling for CNC)\n- [Adobe Illustrator](https://www.adobe.com/products/illustrator.html) (vector design for laser cutting)\n- Laser cutter control software (e.g., RDWorks or machine-specific)\n- CNC machine control software (e.g., Mach3, GRBL)\n\n### Materials\n\n- HDPE plastic pellets (for injection molding)\n- Acrylic sheets (4 mm thickness)\n- Aluminum sheets (3 mm thickness)\n- Cooling system (water or air-based for rapid mold cooling)\n- Bolts (for mold assembly)\n\n### Design Files\n\n- 2D vector files (PNG/AI formats for laser cutting)[1][5]\n- 3D CAD files (for CNC milling)[5][6]\n- Mirrored text/patterns (negative design)[3]\n- Cutting depth specification (1.5 mm for CNC)[6]\n- Multi-depth laser engraving settings[5]\n\n### Safety & Maintenance\n\n- ~~[Dust extraction system](https://www.fablab-leuven.be/facilities)~~ (for laser cutting acrylic)[4]\n- Test cuts (calibration for laser/CNC settings)[4][6]\n- CNC Router bit verification (≥1 mm diameter for CNC)[6]\n- Material clamping tools (vice or vacuum table)\n- Protective gear (goggles, gloves during injection)[4]\n\nLocal fabrication options in Leuven include Fab Lab Leuven for laser cutting/CNC access and KU Leuven’s engineering workshops[2].",
"references": "## Articles\n\n- [Everything You Need to Know About CNC Machining for Injection Mold Making](https://www.mastercam.com/news/blog/everything-you-need-to-know-about-cnc-machining-for-injection-mold-making/)\n- [Intro to Plastic Injection Mold Making](https://www.paulsonmfg.com/blog/intro-to-plastic-injection-mold-making/)\n- [A Beginner's Guide to Injection Molding](https://www.protolabs.com/resources/guides-and-trend-reports/designing-for-moldability-fundamental-elements/)\n\n## Books\n\n- *Runner and Gating Design Handbook Second Edition: Tools for Successful Injection Molding* (John Beaumont): [Link](https://www.beaumontinc.com/about/books-by-beaumont/)\n- *Successful Injection Molding: Process, Design, and Simulation* (John Beaumont): [Link](https://www.beaumontinc.com/about/books-by-beaumont/)\n\n## Papers\n\n- [Effect of Femtosecond-Laser-Structured Injection Molding Tool on Mechanical Properties](https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC8272158/)\n- ~~[Enhancement of Low-Power CO₂ Laser Cutting for Injection-Molded Polycarbonate](https://pure.northampton.ac.uk/files/37975388/Moradi_et_OLT_2017_Enhancement_of_low_power_CO2_laser_cutting_process_for_injection_molded_polycarbonate.pdf)~~\n\n## YouTube\n\n- [Laser Model Making Basics Tutorial Guide](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=17Pg3QJk00o)\n\n## Open-Source Designs\n\n- [Step-by-Step Laser-Cut Molds for Thermoforming (Instructables)](https://www.instructables.com/Laser-Cut-Forms-for-Thermoforming-Vacuum-Forming/)\n- [Fab Academy Week 13 Assignment: Mold Fabrication](https://fabacademy.org/2024/labs/chaihuo/students/matthew-yu/docs/week13_assignment)\n- [Soft Robotics Toolkit: Laser-Cutting Mold Parts](https://softroboticstoolkit.com/laser-cut-molds/mold-fabrication/laser-cutting)\n\n## Manufacturer Guides\n\n- [Plastic Injection Mold Making (CS Tool Engineering)](https://www.cste.com/services/plastic-injection-mold-making)\n- [Injection Molding vs CNC Machining (3ERP)](https://www.3erp.com/blog/injection-molding-vs-cnc-machining/)",
"brief": "Incorporate interchangeable patterns or text into injection molds using lasercut, CNC milled, or handmade plates with acrylic or aluminum materials."
"content": "Using lasercut, cnc milled or handmade plates you can add interchangable text or patterns to injection mould products. Add plastic types or logo's to the products.\n\n\nUser Location: Leuven, Belgium\n\nWe are adding a part to an existing mould. In this example we use the hexagon tile mould. It's a simple 3 part flat mould held together with boults. Outer size : 15 x 15 cm. The top and bottom plate are 10mm, the center part with hexagon cutout is 4mm.\n\nWe will describe how to do lasercutting and CNC milling. For acces to a lasercutter/cnc milling device you can check with your local Fablab/makerspace, sometimes even high schools or universities.\n\nFor the lasercut add ons we use 4mm acrylic plates (15 x15cm).\nFor the CNC we used 3mm aluminium plates (15 x 15cm).\n\n\nWe used software to create different patterns. Make sure the text is mirrored as we are producing a negative. Depending on the technique used you might need a specific export format.\n\nYou can add information (plastic type, production info) as you wish.\n\nWith lasecutting there is virtually no limit in shapes you can cut. Do mind that smaller detail is harder to inject. In our experience 2-3mm is possible with HDPE injection. \n\nWhen CNC milling the limit is set by the CNC Router bit. As it cuts by turning all corners are smoothed out by the diameter of the CNC Router bit. Check the limit of the machine you are using. We used a 1mm CNC Router bit. \n\n\nWhen lasercutting a 2D file is sufficient. Some software allows to use PNG, AI or other files. \n\nWhen CNC milling a 3D file is needed. Using software like Fusion 360 you can change your vector file into a 3D shape.\n\nIn our example we've set the cutting depth to 1.5mm.\n\n\n\nDepending on the type of cutter used settings will differ. \n\nBest is to do some test cuts first, changing the speed and intensity of the laser. Acrylic is safe to ut but does smell so dust extraction is advised. \n\nMake sure the pattern is not cut trough the acrylic plate as it will weaken the texture mould and make it less durable (although its possible for some shapes).\n\nMake sure the edges are cut through to prevent having to drill and cut manually later on in the proces. \n\nYou can use multiple depths in one mould by assigning different settings to the cutting lines. \n\nRun the file through the software, clamp the material in place and start milling. \n\nAgain it is wise to do some speed tests first. \n\nAdd the texture plate to the mould and start injecting. \n\nBest results when cooling down the mould quickly.\n\n"
}

65
howtos/affordable-cat-house/README.md
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@ -1,27 +1,23 @@
---
title: Affordable Cat House
slug: affordable-cat-house
description: # How to Draw Custom Shapes and Designs for CNC Cutting
Learn to create unique shapes and designs by hand for CNC machine cutting.
description: How to draw custom shapes and designs by hand and then cut in CNC.
tags: ["HDPE"]
category: Products
difficulty: Medium
time: < 1 day
keywords: CNC cutting, custom shapes design, Rhinoceros 3D, VCarve application, CNC machine cutting, pocketing vs profiling, affordable cat housing, vectorizing drawings, scan filter CamScanner, Istanbul CNC design
keywords:
location: Istanbul, Turkiye
---
# Affordable Cat House
![Affordable Cat House](_MG_9435-181a5f2baa3.jpg)
# How to Draw Custom Shapes and Designs for CNC Cutting
Learn to create unique shapes and designs by hand for CNC machine cutting.
How to draw custom shapes and designs by hand and then cut in CNC.
User Location: Istanbul, Turkiye
## Steps
### Step 1: Draw you design in 1:1 scale
For this initial step, we provided scale documents for drawing. Participants then created their designs. Blue lines indicate pocketing (not cutting through the material), while red lines denote profiling (cutting through the material).
For this first step, we provided 1:1 scale documents to draw on. Participants then drew their designs. The blue lines are for pocketing (not cutting the material through) and the red lines are for profiling(cutting the material through).
![IMG_1353-181a5f78c5d.PNG](./IMG_1353-181a5f78c5d.PNG)
@ -31,7 +27,7 @@ For this initial step, we provided scale documents for drawing. Participants the
### Step 2: Scanning drawings
In this step, we scanned the drawings using a scan filter like CamScanner to ensure a high-contrast image similar to a photocopy.
In this step, we scanned(took pictures and used a scan filter like CamScanner) the drawings. The important part is to have a high-contrast image. Something like a photocopy.
![Workable Area-1-181a5f969d9.jpg](./Workable_Area-1-181a5f969d9.jpg)
@ -44,21 +40,21 @@ In this step, we scanned the drawings using a scan filter like CamScanner to ens
### Step 3: Converting drawings into CAD
We used Rhinoceros 3D and the Vectorize plugin to import the drawings as lines in Rhino. We cleaned and simplified the curves using the rebuild command, resulting in smoother curves with fewer control points. Blue lines indicate pocketing, while red lines indicate profiling (cutting through the material).
We used the Rhinoceros 3D application and the Vectorize plugin to import the drawings as lines in Rhino. We then cleaned the lines and simplified all the curves using the rebuild command. This ensured smoother curves with fewer control points. Again the blue lines are for pocketing (not cutting the material through) and the red lines are for profiling(cutting the material through).
![Screenshot 2022-06-27 at 19.29.12-181a5ff0df0.png](./Screenshot_2022-06-27_at_19.29.12-181a5ff0df0.png)
### Step 4: Preparing for CNC
For this step, we used the VCarve application. We input the material's width, length, and thickness. We selected the blue lines for 'pocketing' and the red lines for 'profiling'. Note that this step may vary depending on the machine used.
For this step, we used the VCarve application. We entered the width, length, and thickness of our material. Then we selected the blue lines and chose 'pocketing' and for the red lines we chose 'profiling'. Every machine is different so this step will be different for everyone.
![vcarve_pro_with_nested_polyboard_project-900-181a610c49e.jpeg](./vcarve_pro_with_nested_polyboard_project-900-181a610c49e.jpeg)
### Step 5: CNC miling
In this step, cut the material according to the designs. Secure the four corners of the sheet material to the CNC bed and input the x, y, and z coordinates of the sheet's corner into the CNC machine. Ensure the cutting pattern is correct from an elevated perspective (z coordinates higher than the material) to avoid the CNC bit hitting screws and to confirm that the design fits properly on the sheet without being offset.
This step involves cutting the material according to the designs. For this, we screw four corners of our sheet material to the CNC bed and specify to the CNC machine where are the x, y, and z locations of the corner of the sheet plastic. An important thing to remember is to double-check the cutting pattern from an elevated point (meaning the Z coordinates should be higher than the material) to make sure that the CNC bit is not hitting any of the screws and that the design fits in the sheet nicely and is not offsetted to one side.
![IMG_1356-181a608ed30.jpg](./IMG_1356-181a608ed30.jpg)
@ -71,7 +67,7 @@ In this step, cut the material according to the designs. Secure the four corners
### Step 6: Assembly
The final step is to assemble all sides of the Affordable Cat Housing using screws. We used two materials: plastic sheets and OSB panels.
The last step is to assemble all sides of the Affordable Cat Housing using screws. We used two materials; our plastic sheets and OSB panels.
![_MG_9537-181a60b78df.jpg](./_MG_9537-181a60b78df.jpg)
@ -83,45 +79,4 @@ The final step is to assemble all sides of the Affordable Cat Housing using scre
![_MG_9452-181a60bf3b5.jpg](./_MG_9452-181a60bf3b5.jpg)
## Resources
### Software
- [CamScanner](https://www.camscanner.com) (high-contrast image scanning)
- [Rhinoceros 3D](https://www.rhino3d.com) with Vectorize plugin (vectorization)
- [VCarve](https://www.vectric.com/products/vcarve-pro) (CNC toolpath programming)
### Hardware
- CNC machine (for cutting operations)
- Screws (securing material to CNC bed and assembly)
### Materials
- Plastic sheets (housing components)
- OSB panels (structural assembly)
## References
## Articles
1. [How to prepare a technical drawing for CNC machining](https://www.hubs.com/knowledge-base/how-prepare-technical-drawing-cnc-machining/)
2. [Fusion 360 CAM for CNC Beginners](https://www.instructables.com/Fusion-360-CAM-Tutorial-for-CNC-Beginners/)
3. [CNC Workflow Using Vectric VCarve Pro](https://makerhardware.net/knowledge-base/how-to-guides/cnc-workflow-using-vectric-vcarve-vcarve-pro-for-cnc/)
4. [Free CNC Software](https://carbide3d.com/learn/free-cnc-software/)
5. [Make Awesome 3D Geometry by Programming CNC-code](https://www.instructables.com/Make-Awesome-3D-Geometry-by-Programming-CNC-code/)
6. [EasyEDA Tutorial](https://image.easyeda.com/files/EasyEDA-Tutorial_v6.4.32.pdf)
## Books
1. [Getting Started with CNC: Personal Digital Fabrication](https://www.harvard.com/book/9781457183362)
2. [Fundamentals of CNC Machining](https://academy.titansofcnc.com/files/Fundamentals_of_CNC_Machining.pdf)
## Papers
1. ~~[Investigating 3 Axis CNC Processes for Creating 3D Objects](https://scholarworks.uark.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1066\&context=inquiry)~~
## YouTube
1. [Vectric V11 Tutorials: Create Shape Guide](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1OZVCOYlYy8)
2. [Fusion 360 CNC 3D Carving Tutorial](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G3h4Oe2i3Xo)
## Open-source Designs
1. [LinuxCNC Rigid CNC Router](https://www.forum.linuxcnc.org/30-cnc-machines/53486-the-linuxcnc-rigid-CNC Router-an-open-source-dual-z-axis-gantry-machine)
## References

20
howtos/affordable-cat-house/config.json
View File

@ -39,7 +39,7 @@
},
"slug": "affordable-cat-house",
"_deleted": false,
"description": "# How to Draw Custom Shapes and Designs for CNC Cutting\n\nLearn to create unique shapes and designs by hand for CNC machine cutting.",
"description": "How to draw custom shapes and designs by hand and then cut in CNC. ",
"votedUsefulBy": [
"adigitalgirl",
"sigolene",
@ -60,7 +60,7 @@
{
"title": "Draw you design in 1:1 scale",
"_animationKey": "unique1",
"text": "For this initial step, we provided scale documents for drawing. Participants then created their designs. Blue lines indicate pocketing (not cutting through the material), while red lines denote profiling (cutting through the material).",
"text": "For this first step, we provided 1:1 scale documents to draw on. Participants then drew their designs. The blue lines are for pocketing (not cutting the material through) and the red lines are for profiling(cutting the material through).",
"images": [
{
"downloadUrl": "https://firebasestorage.googleapis.com/v0/b/onearmyworld.appspot.com/o/uploads%2Fhowtos%2Fqkgo3Z8uaGoo7nVeayEU%2FIMG_1353-181a5f78c5d.PNG?alt=media&token=a27e0d5a-c56e-428e-a160-349dd5ec683c",
@ -89,7 +89,7 @@
]
},
{
"text": "In this step, we scanned the drawings using a scan filter like CamScanner to ensure a high-contrast image similar to a photocopy.",
"text": "In this step, we scanned(took pictures and used a scan filter like CamScanner) the drawings. The important part is to have a high-contrast image. Something like a photocopy.",
"_animationKey": "unique2",
"title": "Scanning drawings",
"images": [
@ -133,7 +133,7 @@
},
{
"_animationKey": "unique3",
"text": "We used Rhinoceros 3D and the Vectorize plugin to import the drawings as lines in Rhino. We cleaned and simplified the curves using the rebuild command, resulting in smoother curves with fewer control points. Blue lines indicate pocketing, while red lines indicate profiling (cutting through the material).",
"text": "We used the Rhinoceros 3D application and the Vectorize plugin to import the drawings as lines in Rhino. We then cleaned the lines and simplified all the curves using the rebuild command. This ensured smoother curves with fewer control points. Again the blue lines are for pocketing (not cutting the material through) and the red lines are for profiling(cutting the material through).",
"images": [
{
"fullPath": "uploads/howtos/qkgo3Z8uaGoo7nVeayEU/Screenshot 2022-06-27 at 19.29.12-181a5ff0df0.png",
@ -165,7 +165,7 @@
"alt": "vcarve_pro_with_nested_polyboard_project-900-181a610c49e.jpeg"
}
],
"text": "For this step, we used the VCarve application. We input the material's width, length, and thickness. We selected the blue lines for 'pocketing' and the red lines for 'profiling'. Note that this step may vary depending on the machine used.",
"text": "For this step, we used the VCarve application. We entered the width, length, and thickness of our material. Then we selected the blue lines and chose 'pocketing' and for the red lines we chose 'profiling'. Every machine is different so this step will be different for everyone. ",
"_animationKey": "uniquecnbgno",
"title": "Preparing for CNC"
},
@ -209,12 +209,12 @@
}
],
"title": "CNC miling",
"text": "In this step, cut the material according to the designs. Secure the four corners of the sheet material to the CNC bed and input the x, y, and z coordinates of the sheet's corner into the CNC machine. Ensure the cutting pattern is correct from an elevated perspective (z coordinates higher than the material) to avoid the CNC bit hitting screws and to confirm that the design fits properly on the sheet without being offset.",
"text": "This step involves cutting the material according to the designs. For this, we screw four corners of our sheet material to the CNC bed and specify to the CNC machine where are the x, y, and z locations of the corner of the sheet plastic. An important thing to remember is to double-check the cutting pattern from an elevated point (meaning the Z coordinates should be higher than the material) to make sure that the CNC bit is not hitting any of the screws and that the design fits in the sheet nicely and is not offsetted to one side.",
"_animationKey": "unique7kc61m"
},
{
"_animationKey": "uniqueb3f3ks",
"text": "The final step is to assemble all sides of the Affordable Cat Housing using screws. We used two materials: plastic sheets and OSB panels.",
"text": "The last step is to assemble all sides of the Affordable Cat Housing using screws. We used two materials; our plastic sheets and OSB panels. ",
"title": "Assembly",
"images": [
{
@ -422,9 +422,5 @@
"images": []
}
},
"content": "# How to Draw Custom Shapes and Designs for CNC Cutting\n\nLearn to create unique shapes and designs by hand for CNC machine cutting.\n\n\nUser Location: Istanbul, Turkiye\n\nFor this initial step, we provided scale documents for drawing. Participants then created their designs. Blue lines indicate pocketing (not cutting through the material), while red lines denote profiling (cutting through the material).\n\nIn this step, we scanned the drawings using a scan filter like CamScanner to ensure a high-contrast image similar to a photocopy.\n\nWe used Rhinoceros 3D and the Vectorize plugin to import the drawings as lines in Rhino. We cleaned and simplified the curves using the rebuild command, resulting in smoother curves with fewer control points. Blue lines indicate pocketing, while red lines indicate profiling (cutting through the material).\n\nFor this step, we used the VCarve application. We input the material's width, length, and thickness. We selected the blue lines for 'pocketing' and the red lines for 'profiling'. Note that this step may vary depending on the machine used.\n\nIn this step, cut the material according to the designs. Secure the four corners of the sheet material to the CNC bed and input the x, y, and z coordinates of the sheet's corner into the CNC machine. Ensure the cutting pattern is correct from an elevated perspective (z coordinates higher than the material) to avoid the CNC bit hitting screws and to confirm that the design fits properly on the sheet without being offset.\n\nThe final step is to assemble all sides of the Affordable Cat Housing using screws. We used two materials: plastic sheets and OSB panels.",
"keywords": "CNC cutting, custom shapes design, Rhinoceros 3D, VCarve application, CNC machine cutting, pocketing vs profiling, affordable cat housing, vectorizing drawings, scan filter CamScanner, Istanbul CNC design",
"resources": "### Software\n\n- [CamScanner](https://www.camscanner.com) (high-contrast image scanning)\n- [Rhinoceros 3D](https://www.rhino3d.com) with Vectorize plugin (vectorization)\n- [VCarve](https://www.vectric.com/products/vcarve-pro) (CNC toolpath programming)\n\n### Hardware\n\n- CNC machine (for cutting operations)\n- Screws (securing material to CNC bed and assembly)\n\n### Materials\n\n- Plastic sheets (housing components)\n- OSB panels (structural assembly)",
"references": "## Articles\n\n1. [How to prepare a technical drawing for CNC machining](https://www.hubs.com/knowledge-base/how-prepare-technical-drawing-cnc-machining/)\n2. [Fusion 360 CAM for CNC Beginners](https://www.instructables.com/Fusion-360-CAM-Tutorial-for-CNC-Beginners/)\n3. [CNC Workflow Using Vectric VCarve Pro](https://makerhardware.net/knowledge-base/how-to-guides/cnc-workflow-using-vectric-vcarve-vcarve-pro-for-cnc/)\n4. [Free CNC Software](https://carbide3d.com/learn/free-cnc-software/)\n5. [Make Awesome 3D Geometry by Programming CNC-code](https://www.instructables.com/Make-Awesome-3D-Geometry-by-Programming-CNC-code/)\n6. [EasyEDA Tutorial](https://image.easyeda.com/files/EasyEDA-Tutorial_v6.4.32.pdf)\n\n## Books\n\n1. [Getting Started with CNC: Personal Digital Fabrication](https://www.harvard.com/book/9781457183362)\n2. [Fundamentals of CNC Machining](https://academy.titansofcnc.com/files/Fundamentals_of_CNC_Machining.pdf)\n\n## Papers\n\n1. ~~[Investigating 3 Axis CNC Processes for Creating 3D Objects](https://scholarworks.uark.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1066\\&context=inquiry)~~\n\n## YouTube\n\n1. [Vectric V11 Tutorials: Create Shape Guide](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1OZVCOYlYy8)\n2. [Fusion 360 CNC 3D Carving Tutorial](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G3h4Oe2i3Xo)\n\n## Open-source Designs\n\n1. [LinuxCNC Rigid CNC Router](https://www.forum.linuxcnc.org/30-cnc-machines/53486-the-linuxcnc-rigid-CNC Router-an-open-source-dual-z-axis-gantry-machine)",
"brief": "Learn to draw custom shapes for CNC cutting with step-by-step guidance, from scanning designs to using software like Rhino and VCarve for perfect cuts."
"content": "How to draw custom shapes and designs by hand and then cut in CNC. \n\n\nUser Location: Istanbul, Turkiye\n\nFor this first step, we provided 1:1 scale documents to draw on. Participants then drew their designs. The blue lines are for pocketing (not cutting the material through) and the red lines are for profiling(cutting the material through).\n\nIn this step, we scanned(took pictures and used a scan filter like CamScanner) the drawings. The important part is to have a high-contrast image. Something like a photocopy.\n\nWe used the Rhinoceros 3D application and the Vectorize plugin to import the drawings as lines in Rhino. We then cleaned the lines and simplified all the curves using the rebuild command. This ensured smoother curves with fewer control points. Again the blue lines are for pocketing (not cutting the material through) and the red lines are for profiling(cutting the material through).\n\nFor this step, we used the VCarve application. We entered the width, length, and thickness of our material. Then we selected the blue lines and chose 'pocketing' and for the red lines we chose 'profiling'. Every machine is different so this step will be different for everyone. \n\nThis step involves cutting the material according to the designs. For this, we screw four corners of our sheet material to the CNC bed and specify to the CNC machine where are the x, y, and z locations of the corner of the sheet plastic. An important thing to remember is to double-check the cutting pattern from an elevated point (meaning the Z coordinates should be higher than the material) to make sure that the CNC bit is not hitting any of the screws and that the design fits in the sheet nicely and is not offsetted to one side.\n\nThe last step is to assemble all sides of the Affordable Cat Housing using screws. We used two materials; our plastic sheets and OSB panels. "
}

119
howtos/automated-sheet-press/README.md
View File

@ -1,93 +1,121 @@
---
title: Automated Sheet Press
slug: automated-sheet-press
description: This document outlines modifications made to the sheetpress, aiming for automation and reduced time investment. The pressing surface measures 600x600mm (approximately 23.6x23.6 inches), designed for portability and compatibility with standard single-phase 230V (110V) power. For further information, please reach out to us.
description: Here we describe some of the adaptations we made to the sheetpress. It is a step towards an automated version. The main goal was to adapt the sheetpress so that it needs minimal time investment.
Our version has a 600x600mm pressing surface. We chose this size to fit our needs: a transportable machine that runs on standard single phase 230V.
If you want more info, contact us :)
tags: ["research","sheetpress","hack"]
category: Guides
difficulty: Medium
time: 1+ months
keywords: sheet press, automation, Raspberry Pi, V4 sheet press, cartridge heaters, type K sensors, MAX31855, pneumatic jack, touch screen interface, Node.js server
keywords:
location: Leuven, Belgium
---
# Automated Sheet Press
![Automated Sheet Press](sheeppress.jpg)
This document outlines modifications made to the sheetpress, aiming for automation and reduced time investment. The pressing surface measures 600x600mm (approximately 23.6x23.6 inches), designed for portability and compatibility with standard single-phase 230V (110V) power. For further information, please reach out to us.
Here we describe some of the adaptations we made to the sheetpress. It is a step towards an automated version. The main goal was to adapt the sheetpress so that it needs minimal time investment.
Our version has a 600x600mm pressing surface. We chose this size to fit our needs: a transportable machine that runs on standard single phase 230V.
If you want more info, contact us :)
User Location: Leuven, Belgium
## Steps
### Step 1: Structure
The foundation is based on the V4 sheet press, maintaining the same press and cartridge heaters but featuring a reduced steel frame with a pressing surface of 23.6 x 23.6 in (600 x 600 mm). We upgraded the bearings for a smoother fit.
The basics are derived from the V4 sheetpress, with the same press, same cartridge heaters,... but a downsized steel frame so the pressing surface is 600 x 600 mm.
We changed the bearings for an alternative with a smooth fit.
![IMG_9406 copy.jpg](./IMG_9406_copy.jpg)
### Step 2: Heating: heater configuration
We designed each heated plate with two distinct loops: an inner loop containing five cartridge heaters and an outer loop with four. The inner loop is expected to retain heat better and will therefore cycle off more frequently. We built a smaller version to facilitate use in mobile workspaces, operating at 230V to enhance compatibility with most power outlets.
We chose to create 2 separate loops in every heated plate (Upper and Lower). One is the core or inside loop (5 cartridge heaters), the other is the outside loop (4 heaters). We expect the center loop to have less heat loss so it will shut down sooner/more. 
One of the reasons we made a small version is to be able to use it in our mobile workspace. Reducing power consumption to 230V increases the chance we can plug it in almost anywhere.
![IMG_1532 copy.jpg](./IMG_1532_copy.jpg)
### Step 3: Heating: sensor configuration
We added multiple type K sensors (eight on each heating plate) to create an accurate heat map, allowing us to identify issues such as overheating or broken heaters. These sensors enable monitoring of core and peripheral temperatures, including warming and cooling speeds and fluctuations. The sensors are evenly distributed and not linked to specific heaters. Usage of this data will be explained in a subsequent step.
We added multiple type K sensors (eighth on each heating plate) to have an accurate heat map so we can identify problems: overheating, broken heaters,... These sensors also make it possible to check how the core and peripheral temperatures are behaving ( warming and cooling speed, fluctuations,...)
Sensors are distributed evenly, not linked to specific heaters.
How we use this data will be explained in a later step.
![IMG_1884 copy.jpg](./IMG_1884_copy.jpg)
### Step 4: Heating : Digital PID
We replaced the original hardware PID controllers with a software version on the machine controller. This change enables further automation, data logging, and smoother integration into the user interface. It also allows us to monitor pressing times and maximum temperatures for optimized machine usage.
We switched out the original hardware PID's for a software implementation on the machine controller. This allows further automatisation, data logging and a fluent integration in the user control interface. We also can track (monitor) pressing times and (max) temperatures to optimize the machine use. 
![IMG_1685.JPG](./IMG_1685.JPG)
### Step 5: heater and sensor connection
Currently, the thermocouples connect to a differential ADC designed for Raspberry Pi by AB Electronics. To enhance sensor performance, these will be replaced with a MAX31855, an integrated circuit by Maxim Integrated for type-K thermocouples. The heating elements are divided into four circuits—two per plate, with one outer and one inner circuit. Each circuit is controlled by the Raspberry Pi via a solid-state relay. These relays switch 230V AC and can be controlled with a 4V-48V signal. To safeguard the Pi from 230V AC short circuits, the relay drive signals are optically isolated.
At the moment the thermocouples are connected to a differential adc, specially made for the raspberry Pi from AB Electronics. To improve the functionality of the sensors, these adc’s will be replaced with a MAX31855. This is an integrated circuit from Maxim Integrated, dedicated to reading type-K thermocouples. The heating elements are divided into 4 circuits, 2 per plate, one outer circuit and one inner. Each circuit is controlled by the raspberry pi through a solid state relay. These relays are made to switch 230v AC and are controllable using a 4v-48v signal. To protect the pi from short circuits to the 230V ac the drive signals for the relays are optically isolated.  
![IMG_2914 copy.jpg](./IMG_2914_copy.jpg)
### Step 6: Digital interface
The digital interface operates on a Raspberry Pi connected to a touch screen. It comprises a server and a client side. The client side is a website accessible from the Pi’s browser or any device connected to the Raspberry Pi's Wi-Fi. The server is built using Node.js.
The digital interface runs on a Raspberry Pi that is connected with a touch screen. It is split up into two parts, the server part and the client side. The client side is a website that you can access from the Pi’s browser or from any device that is connected to the wifi on the raspberry Pi. The server is made with Nodejs. 
![IMG_2914 copy.jpg](./IMG_2914_copy.jpg)
### Step 7: Sheetmaker part 1
- The sheet maker page enables users to create an automated sheet, allowing selection of plastic type and desired sheet thickness. Metal frames determine thickness and sheet size/shape. The system calculates the necessary weight for production and displays the required time and temperature.
- Next, initiate the heating process while setting up the sheet on the prep table. The system adjusts to the appropriate temperature for each plastic type automatically.
• The sheet maker page allows users to make an automated sheet. It is possible to select the type of plastic and the required thickness of the sheet. We use metal frames to set thickness and sheet size/shape. Based on these parameters the screen will indicate the weight needed to produce the sheet. The time and temperature needed to make a sheet is also displayed. 
• In the following step it is possible to start the  heating process. This can be done while preparing the sheet on the prep table. The system automatically sets the correct temperature for each plastic type.
![Screenshot 2020-10-16 at 21.07.20.png](./Screenshot_2020-10-16_at_21.07.20.png)
### Step 8: sheetmaker part 2
- Once the plates reach the desired temperature, insert the prep sheet and select the press function. This initiates automated pressing and activates the timer. Periodically, the system will maintain pressure with an alert sound as a warning.
- During pressing, choose options for subsequent steps: either automatic opening to 4 inches (10 cm) when the timer ends or remain closed. In both scenarios, heating will cease.
- An alert sound signals the timer's completion.
•  When the plates are up to temperature and the prep sheet is inserted the operator needs to select the press function. This will start the automated pressing and the timer. Every few minutes the system activates to maintain pressure. A notification sound is played in advance to warn operators. 
• While the sheet maker is pressing options for further steps can be chosen : automatic open (to 10cm) when the timer finishes or stay closed. In both cases the heating will be stopped. 
• A sound indicates the timer had run out.
![Screenshot 2020-10-16 at 21.07.42.png](./Screenshot_2020-10-16_at_21.07.42.png)
### Step 9: Sheetmaker part 3
- Upon completion, you may replicate the process or restart.
- These steps may be manually controlled on the controls page. Each of the four heating circuits can be adjusted for temperature and to open or close the press. Manual controls are not available when the sheet maker is operating automatically.
- Two heating maps for each plate are available on the graphs page, enabling users to monitor each heating element. Additionally, there are two graphs: one showing the average temperature over the last 15 minutes and another displaying the last 2 hours.
• When finished you can choose to make the same or go back to the first step. 
• All these steps can be controlled manually on the controls page. Each of the 4 heating circuits can be set to the desired temperature and open or close the press. While the sheet maker is making an automated sheet there is no access to the manual controls . 
• There are 2 heating maps from each plate on the graphs page, this allows users to  monitor each heating element. There are  also 2 graphs: one that displays the average temperature from the last 15 minutes and one that displays the last 2 hours.
![Screenshot 2020-10-16 at 21.08.43.png](./Screenshot_2020-10-16_at_21.08.43.png)
### Step 10: sheetmaker part 4
- The history tab displays all sheets produced using the automated process, including their ID numbers, average and highest temperatures, plastic types, and pressing durations.
• The history tab will show you all the sheets that are made with the automated process. It will show the id number, the average temp, the highest temp, the plastic type and how long it was in the press. 
- The calculator function enables preparation of the next sheet while the machine is in operation.
• The calculator function allows to prepare a following sheet while the machine is in use.
![Screenshot 2020-10-16 at 21.09.07.png](./Screenshot_2020-10-16_at_21.09.07.png)
@ -97,9 +125,11 @@ The digital interface operates on a Raspberry Pi connected to a touch screen. It
### Step 11: Pressing: pneumatic system
We utilize pneumatics to operate the jack due to the availability of an air compressor, making it the cost-effective option. Alternatives include hydraulic systems. A pneumatic valve, controlled by the system controller, allows air to flow when the press is to be raised. To lower the press, we installed a servo to open or close the valve, letting the press descend under its own weight.
We use pneumatics to operate the jack. It was the cheapest option as we have an air compressor available. Other alternatives would be hydraulic systems. A pneumatic valve, controlled by the system controller let’s air go through when the press needs to be raised. To release the press we installed a servo that can open or close the valve to lower the press (it opens because of its weight) 
When the timer runs out (sheetmaker) a signal sent by the Raspberry pi tells the Arduino to release the press. This can be manually overruled if needed. 
Upon timer expiration (sheetmaker), a signal from the Raspberry Pi prompts the Arduino to release the press, with manual override possible if necessary.
![IMG_2912 copy.jpg](./IMG_2912_copy.jpg)
@ -109,7 +139,8 @@ Upon timer expiration (sheetmaker), a signal from the Raspberry Pi prompts the A
### Step 12: pressing: height sensor
A sensor is attached to the upper plate to measure the distance to a reflector on the lower plate. The casing, a sliced PVC tube, limits interference. This measurement is sent to the Arduino, allowing the machine to determine the plates' positions and manage air flow. The sensor used is a Time of Flight Sensor VL6180.
There is a sensor attached to the upper plate measuring the distance to a reflector mounted on the lower plate. The casing is a sliced PVC tube to limit interference. This measurement is sent to the arduino and allows the machine to know the position of the plates, when to add air and when to release. The sensor we used is a Time Of Flight Sensor vl6180. 
![_MG_9389.JPG](./_MG_9389.JPG)
@ -118,46 +149,4 @@ A sensor is attached to the upper plate to measure the distance to a reflector o
![IMG_1655.JPG](./IMG_1655.JPG)
## Resources
### Tools
- Sheetpress with 600x600mm heated plates and upgraded bearings ~~[🔗](https://example.com/sheetpress)~~
- Cartridge heaters (5 inner/4 outer per plate) ~~[🔗](https://example.com/cartridge-heaters)~~
- 16 type-K thermocouples (8 per plate) for heat mapping ~~[🔗](https://example.com/thermocouples)~~
- Pneumatic valve system with air compressor and servo control ~~[🔗](https://example.com/pneumatic-valve)~~
- Custom metal thickness/size frames
### Hardware
- Raspberry Pi with touchscreen interface ~~[🔗](https://www.raspberrypi.com/)~~
- MAX31855 thermocouple interface (replaces AB Electronics ADC) [🔗](https://www.analog.com/max31855)
- Solid-state relays (230V AC, 4V–48V DC control) ~~[🔗](https://example.com/ssr)~~
- VL6180 Time-of-Flight distance sensor [🔗](https://www.st.com/en/imaging-and-photonics-solutions/vl6180.html)
- Arduino Nano for pneumatic valve control [🔗](https://www.arduino.cc/)
### Software
- Node.js server backend [🔗](https://nodejs.org/)
- Web-based client interface (local network)
- Custom PID controller software for temperature regulation
- Automated sheet production calculator with material/thickness presets
- Real-time graphing (15-minute/2-hour temperature history)
## References
Here are the references grouped by type based on the search results provided:
## Articles
- [Automate Offset Press Process Control | Using X-Rite Solutions](https://www.xrite.com/learning-color-education/using-our-solutions/automate-offset-press)
- [Advanced ex-press sheet management for improved quality and productivity](https://www.tappi.org/product_pull/04/aug/advanced-ex-press-sheet-management-for-improved-quality-and/)
- [Sheetfed Offset Printing Press Automation Advancements](https://www.piworld.com/article/sheetfed-offset-printing-press-automation-advancements/)
- [Printing Industry Automation & Control Systems](https://www.industrialautomation.us/industries/printing/)
- ~~[Product Spotlight: Canon Press Automation Modules—Optimizing & Simplifying Printing](https://whattheythink.com/articles/111446-product-spotlight-canon-press-automation-modulesoptimizing-simplifying-printing/)~~
- [Automation in Offset: Simplifying Production and Increasing Profitability](https://www.packagingimpressions.com/article/automation-in-offset-simplifying-production-and-increasing-profitability/)
## Books
- [Hands-On Data Visualization: Interactive Charts and Customized Maps](https://handsondataviz.org/HandsOnDataViz.pdf)
## Papers
- [Sprague Achieves Higher Automation Levels By Replacing DCS with Digital Architecture](https://www.emerson.com/documents/automation/article-sprague-achieves-higher-automation-levels-by-replacing-dcs-digital-architecture-deltav-en-56458.pdf)
- [Shreyans Doubled Productivity by Installing Process Automation System](https://ippta.co/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/IPPTA-71-29-35-Shreyans-Doubled-its.pdf)
## References

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howtos/automated-sheet-press/config.json
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howtos/become-an-authorized-dealer/README.md
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@ -1,83 +1,57 @@
---
title: Become an Authorized Dealer
slug: become-an-authorized-dealer
description: The "Kwik BagIt Closed-Loop Rewards System" requires a signed Non-Disclosure Agreement for complete details. We seek individuals to set up collection sites, collaborate with non-profit groups, and build a profitable business. This opportunity is available globally. A video explains our mission and the need for local dealers worldwide.
description: The Patent Pending "Kwik BagIt Closed-Loop Rewards Recycling System" is proprietary and requires a Non-Disclosure to be signed before all details can be shared.
In short, we are seeking individuals who are interested in establishing collection sites in your community, working with non-profit groups who will be able to receive payment for their services, and creating a profitable business with our "System". This is a ground-floor opportunity and is available anywhere in the world.
The following video will give our Mission Statement and why
we are seeking dealers across the globe to develop the business in their local area.
tags: ["starterkit","collection","sorting"]
category: Guides
difficulty: Medium
time: 1-2 weeks
keywords: Kwik BagIt System, Closed-Loop Rewards, Non-Disclosure Agreement, collection sites, global business opportunity, local dealers, Saskatoon recycling, plastic waste reduction, profitable recycling, authorized dealers
keywords:
location: Saskatoon, Canada
---
# Become an Authorized Dealer
![Become an Authorized Dealer](IMG-2067_1-1818f3abca4.jpg)
The "Kwik BagIt Closed-Loop Rewards System" requires a signed Non-Disclosure Agreement for complete details. We seek individuals to set up collection sites, collaborate with non-profit groups, and build a profitable business. This opportunity is available globally. A video explains our mission and the need for local dealers worldwide.
The Patent Pending "Kwik BagIt Closed-Loop Rewards Recycling System" is proprietary and requires a Non-Disclosure to be signed before all details can be shared.
In short, we are seeking individuals who are interested in establishing collection sites in your community, working with non-profit groups who will be able to receive payment for their services, and creating a profitable business with our "System". This is a ground-floor opportunity and is available anywhere in the world.
The following video will give our Mission Statement and why
we are seeking dealers across the globe to develop the business in their local area.
User Location: Saskatoon, Canada
## Steps
### Step 1: Contamination and Co-mingling
I'm sorry, I need a bit more context or clarification to provide the Markdown content you need. Could you please give me more details or specify what you'd like?
These are 2 of the main reason why MRFs are failing and we have proprietary information that relates to the Patent Pending "Systems" which will be revealed upon signing a nondisclosure with Kwik BagIt.
The attached video link will give a basic understanding.
Contact us for more information
### Step 2: Establishing a Non-Profit Group to work with
The "Kwik BagIt System" is designed to engage households, businesses, and non-profit organizations in a rewarding, revenue-generating activity. Contact us for more information.
The Patent Pending "Kwik BagIt Closed-Loop Rewards Recycling System" is designed to reward the household and commercial businesses as well as the non-profit groups who will also participate in a lucrative revenue-based activity that will be essential to the profit and success of your dealership. Contact us for more details.
![KBI BROCHURE OUTSIDE-1818f4da1d2.png](./KBI_BROCHURE_OUTSIDE-1818f4da1d2.png)
### Step 3: Working with Municipalities and Re-Processors
The Authorized Kwik Bagit Dealers aim to:
The Mandate of the Authorized Kwik Bagit Dealers is to
1. Reduce the amount of unnecessary recyclable plastic and metal material entering the municipal landfills.
2. Improve the quality and quantity of the material that is sent to re-processors in order to make them more profitable
3. Provide the Authorized Dealers with the ability to capitalize on the valuable recyclable material that is commonly tossed in the waste.
1. Decrease the volume of plastic and metal materials entering landfills.
2. Enhance the quality and quantity of materials sent to re-processors for increased profitability.
3. Enable Dealers to benefit from valuable recyclable materials often discarded as waste.
![IMG-2070-1818f5311be.jpg](./IMG-2070-1818f5311be.jpg)
## Resources
### Tools
- Non-Disclosure Agreement signing platform ([DocuSign](https://www.docusign.com/))
- Basic office equipment (computers, printers)
- Weighing scales for material quantification
- Safety gear (gloves, protective clothing)
- Material sorting equipment
### Software
- Video conferencing tools ([Zoom](https://zoom.us/))
- Customer relationship management (CRM) software
- Recycling tracking/monitoring systems
- Business management platforms ([QuickBooks](https://quickbooks.intuit.com/))
- Document storage solutions ([Google Drive](https://drive.google.com/))
### Hardware
- Collection bins/containers for recyclables
- Transportation vehicles for material logistics
- Baling machines for compacting materials
- Label printers for inventory tracking
- Site security systems (cameras, access controls)
*Note: Specific proprietary tools/software tied to Kwik BagIt operations require signed NDA for detailed disclosure [as referenced in materials].*
## References
## Articles
- ~~[`waste360.com` - Kwik BagIt Partnership Announcement](https://www.waste360.com/waste-recycling/alternative-curbside-collection-startup-newbin-partners-with-kwik-bagit-on-washable-reusable-recycling-bag-system)~~ [1]
- [`bestwaytorecycle.weebly.com` - Kwik Bagit Closed-Loop System Overview](https://bestwaytorecycle.weebly.com) [3]
- [`bestwaytorecycle.com` - Net Zero Plastic Initiative](https://bestwaytorecycle.com) [4]
- [`kwikbagit.ca` - Authorized Dealers Program](https://kwikbagit.ca/kwik-bagit-recycling-bags-become-an-authorized-dealer-and-distributor/) [5]
- [`kwikbagit.ca` - Closed-Loop Rewards System](https://kwikbagit.ca/home/) [6]
- [`bestwaytorecycle.com` - KBI System Explanation](https://bestwaytorecycle.com/revolutionizing-plastic-waste-management-how-the-kbi-system-is-redefining-recycling/) [8]
- [`bestwaytorecycle.com` - Plastic Pollution Solution](https://bestwaytorecycle.com/what-goes-where-and-why/) [9]
- [`kwikbagit.ca` - Recycling Guide](https://kwikbagit.ca) [10]
- [`midriffinfosolution.org` - Kwik Bagit Technical Collaboration](https://midriffinfosolution.org/portfolio/kwik-bagit/) [7]
## YouTube
- [`Kwik Trip Rewards Program`](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_0POoCdWcJQ) (Unrelated to Kwik BagIt system; included for context on "Kwik" branding) [11]
*(No Books, Papers, or Opensource Designs identified in provided sources.)*
## References

14
howtos/become-an-authorized-dealer/config.json
View File

@ -39,7 +39,7 @@
"title": "Become an Authorized Dealer",
"_modified": "2023-09-10T23:03:31.780Z",
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"description": "The \"Kwik BagIt Closed-Loop Rewards System\" requires a signed Non-Disclosure Agreement for complete details. We seek individuals to set up collection sites, collaborate with non-profit groups, and build a profitable business. This opportunity is available globally. A video explains our mission and the need for local dealers worldwide.",
"description": "The Patent Pending \"Kwik BagIt Closed-Loop Rewards Recycling System\" is proprietary and requires a Non-Disclosure to be signed before all details can be shared.\n\nIn short, we are seeking individuals who are interested in establishing collection sites in your community, working with non-profit groups who will be able to receive payment for their services, and creating a profitable business with our \"System\". This is a ground-floor opportunity and is available anywhere in the world.\n\nThe following video will give our Mission Statement and why \n we are seeking dealers across the globe to develop the business in their local area.\n ",
"_createdBy": "bestwaytorecycle",
"category": {
"_deleted": false,
@ -58,7 +58,7 @@
],
"steps": [
{
"text": "I'm sorry, I need a bit more context or clarification to provide the Markdown content you need. Could you please give me more details or specify what you'd like?",
"text": "These are 2 of the main reason why MRFs are failing and we have proprietary information that relates to the Patent Pending \"Systems\" which will be revealed upon signing a nondisclosure with Kwik BagIt. \n\nThe attached video link will give a basic understanding.\nContact us for more information ",
"_animationKey": "unique1",
"title": "Contamination and Co-mingling",
"videoUrl": "https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jamJgdiKG2Q",
@ -79,7 +79,7 @@
"alt": "KBI BROCHURE OUTSIDE-1818f4da1d2.png"
}
],
"text": "The \"Kwik BagIt System\" is designed to engage households, businesses, and non-profit organizations in a rewarding, revenue-generating activity. Contact us for more information.",
"text": "The Patent Pending \"Kwik BagIt Closed-Loop Rewards Recycling System\" is designed to reward the household and commercial businesses as well as the non-profit groups who will also participate in a lucrative revenue-based activity that will be essential to the profit and success of your dealership. Contact us for more details. ",
"_animationKey": "unique2",
"title": "Establishing a Non-Profit Group to work with "
},
@ -98,7 +98,7 @@
"alt": "IMG-2070-1818f5311be.jpg"
}
],
"text": "The Authorized Kwik Bagit Dealers aim to:\n\n1. Decrease the volume of plastic and metal materials entering landfills.\n2. Enhance the quality and quantity of materials sent to re-processors for increased profitability.\n3. Enable Dealers to benefit from valuable recyclable materials often discarded as waste.",
"text": "The Mandate of the Authorized Kwik Bagit Dealers is to \n\n1. Reduce the amount of unnecessary recyclable plastic and metal material entering the municipal landfills.\n2. Improve the quality and quantity of the material that is sent to re-processors in order to make them more profitable\n3. Provide the Authorized Dealers with the ability to capitalize on the valuable recyclable material that is commonly tossed in the waste. \n",
"title": "Working with Municipalities and Re-Processors",
"_animationKey": "unique3"
}
@ -257,9 +257,5 @@
"images": []
}
},
"content": "The \"Kwik BagIt Closed-Loop Rewards System\" requires a signed Non-Disclosure Agreement for complete details. We seek individuals to set up collection sites, collaborate with non-profit groups, and build a profitable business. This opportunity is available globally. A video explains our mission and the need for local dealers worldwide.\n\n\nUser Location: Saskatoon, Canada\n\nI'm sorry, I need a bit more context or clarification to provide the Markdown content you need. Could you please give me more details or specify what you'd like?\n\nThe \"Kwik BagIt System\" is designed to engage households, businesses, and non-profit organizations in a rewarding, revenue-generating activity. Contact us for more information.\n\nThe Authorized Kwik Bagit Dealers aim to:\n\n1. Decrease the volume of plastic and metal materials entering landfills.\n2. Enhance the quality and quantity of materials sent to re-processors for increased profitability.\n3. Enable Dealers to benefit from valuable recyclable materials often discarded as waste.",
"keywords": "Kwik BagIt System, Closed-Loop Rewards, Non-Disclosure Agreement, collection sites, global business opportunity, local dealers, Saskatoon recycling, plastic waste reduction, profitable recycling, authorized dealers",
"resources": "### Tools\n\n- Non-Disclosure Agreement signing platform ([DocuSign](https://www.docusign.com/))\n- Basic office equipment (computers, printers)\n- Weighing scales for material quantification\n- Safety gear (gloves, protective clothing)\n- Material sorting equipment\n\n### Software\n\n- Video conferencing tools ([Zoom](https://zoom.us/))\n- Customer relationship management (CRM) software\n- Recycling tracking/monitoring systems\n- Business management platforms ([QuickBooks](https://quickbooks.intuit.com/))\n- Document storage solutions ([Google Drive](https://drive.google.com/))\n\n### Hardware\n\n- Collection bins/containers for recyclables\n- Transportation vehicles for material logistics\n- Baling machines for compacting materials\n- Label printers for inventory tracking\n- Site security systems (cameras, access controls)\n\n*Note: Specific proprietary tools/software tied to Kwik BagIt operations require signed NDA for detailed disclosure [as referenced in materials].*",
"references": "## Articles\n\n- ~~[`waste360.com` - Kwik BagIt Partnership Announcement](https://www.waste360.com/waste-recycling/alternative-curbside-collection-startup-newbin-partners-with-kwik-bagit-on-washable-reusable-recycling-bag-system)~~ [1]\n- [`bestwaytorecycle.weebly.com` - Kwik Bagit Closed-Loop System Overview](https://bestwaytorecycle.weebly.com) [3]\n- [`bestwaytorecycle.com` - Net Zero Plastic Initiative](https://bestwaytorecycle.com) [4]\n- [`kwikbagit.ca` - Authorized Dealers Program](https://kwikbagit.ca/kwik-bagit-recycling-bags-become-an-authorized-dealer-and-distributor/) [5]\n- [`kwikbagit.ca` - Closed-Loop Rewards System](https://kwikbagit.ca/home/) [6]\n- [`bestwaytorecycle.com` - KBI System Explanation](https://bestwaytorecycle.com/revolutionizing-plastic-waste-management-how-the-kbi-system-is-redefining-recycling/) [8]\n- [`bestwaytorecycle.com` - Plastic Pollution Solution](https://bestwaytorecycle.com/what-goes-where-and-why/) [9]\n- [`kwikbagit.ca` - Recycling Guide](https://kwikbagit.ca) [10]\n- [`midriffinfosolution.org` - Kwik Bagit Technical Collaboration](https://midriffinfosolution.org/portfolio/kwik-bagit/) [7]\n\n## YouTube\n\n- [`Kwik Trip Rewards Program`](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_0POoCdWcJQ) (Unrelated to Kwik BagIt system; included for context on \"Kwik\" branding) [11]\n\n*(No Books, Papers, or Opensource Designs identified in provided sources.)*",
"brief": "Join the Kwik BagIt Closed-Loop Rewards System globally. Set up collection sites, partner with non-profits, and profit while reducing landfill waste."
"content": "The Patent Pending \"Kwik BagIt Closed-Loop Rewards Recycling System\" is proprietary and requires a Non-Disclosure to be signed before all details can be shared.\n\nIn short, we are seeking individuals who are interested in establishing collection sites in your community, working with non-profit groups who will be able to receive payment for their services, and creating a profitable business with our \"System\". This is a ground-floor opportunity and is available anywhere in the world.\n\nThe following video will give our Mission Statement and why \n we are seeking dealers across the globe to develop the business in their local area.\n \n\n\nUser Location: Saskatoon, Canada\n\nThese are 2 of the main reason why MRFs are failing and we have proprietary information that relates to the Patent Pending \"Systems\" which will be revealed upon signing a nondisclosure with Kwik BagIt. \n\nThe attached video link will give a basic understanding.\nContact us for more information \n\nThe Patent Pending \"Kwik BagIt Closed-Loop Rewards Recycling System\" is designed to reward the household and commercial businesses as well as the non-profit groups who will also participate in a lucrative revenue-based activity that will be essential to the profit and success of your dealership. Contact us for more details. \n\nThe Mandate of the Authorized Kwik Bagit Dealers is to \n\n1. Reduce the amount of unnecessary recyclable plastic and metal material entering the municipal landfills.\n2. Improve the quality and quantity of the material that is sent to re-processors in order to make them more profitable\n3. Provide the Authorized Dealers with the ability to capitalize on the valuable recyclable material that is commonly tossed in the waste. \n"
}

97
howtos/bend-with-the-sheetpress/README.md
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@ -1,33 +1,37 @@
---
title: Bend with the Sheetpress
slug: bend-with-the-sheetpress
description: The sheet press is utilized for bending plastic sheets, solid surfaces, or extruded beams. The process is straightforward but may need preparation for optimal results. Follow these steps for effective use:
description: We have used the sheetpress as a tool for bending plastic sheets, solid surface materials or even extruded beams. The process is quite simple but might require some preparation to get the best results. Below are the steps taken to do this, although there is still room for further improvements!
Tools needed:
- Sheet press
- Some kind of mould
- Clamps
**Tools Required:**
- Sheet press
- Mould
- Clamps
tags: ["melting","sheetpress"]
category: Guides
difficulty: Medium
time: < 5 hours
keywords: sheet press, plastic bending, plastic sheets, bending tools, moulding process, clamp placement, temperature settings, extruded beams, plastic shaping, press techniques
keywords:
location: Amsterdam, Netherlands (Kingdom of the)
---
# Bend with the Sheetpress
![Bend with the Sheetpress](fictionfactory.jpg)
The sheet press is utilized for bending plastic sheets, solid surfaces, or extruded beams. The process is straightforward but may need preparation for optimal results. Follow these steps for effective use:
We have used the sheetpress as a tool for bending plastic sheets, solid surface materials or even extruded beams. The process is quite simple but might require some preparation to get the best results. Below are the steps taken to do this, although there is still room for further improvements!
Tools needed:
- Sheet press
- Some kind of mould
- Clamps
**Tools Required:**
- Sheet press
- Mould
- Clamps
User Location: Amsterdam, Netherlands (Kingdom of the)
## Steps
### Step 1: Make a mould
To achieve consistent results, use a mold for bending. For larger projects, sharp corners, or intricate shapes, consider a counter mold to ensure proper shaping. Plan clamp placement to ensure sufficient space for secure attachment.
To have a consistent result it's best to use a mould for the bending. For bigger projects, sharp corners or intricate shapes a counter mould is recommended! This ensures the sheets is pushed in the right shape.
It’s also important to keep in mind where the clamps will be placed so make sure there is space for the clamps to grab on to.
![IMG_6196 2.jpg](./IMG_6196_2.jpg)
@ -37,11 +41,13 @@ To achieve consistent results, use a mold for bending. For larger projects, shar
### Step 2: Temperature and timing
The next step is to determine temperature and timing.
The next step is to decide on temperature and timing.
The right temperature depends on the plastic type and thickness. You can check in between to see if it bends far enough or experiment with smaller pieces before starting with bigger sheets.
Below are some of the settings we have worked with.
Temperature varies based on plastic type and thickness. Check if the plastic bends sufficiently or experiment with smaller pieces before using larger sheets.
Below are some settings we have utilized.
![Schermafbeelding 2020-10-29 om 14.55.03.png](./Schermafbeelding_2020-10-29_om_14.55.03.png)
@ -51,9 +57,9 @@ Below are some settings we have utilized.
### Step 3: Place in the Sheetpress
Place the plastic on a 1/8 inch (3 mm) MDF sheet to prevent sticking to the press. Position the sheet and adjust the bottom bed upwards, leaving a 3/8 inch (1 cm) gap.
We placed the plastic on top of a 3mm sheet of mdf to make sure it doesn’t stick to the press. Once the sheet is in place move the bottom bed to the top so it’s almost closed (see picture). A distance of 1 cm should be ok.
You can also bend sheets larger than the press, provided the bent section fits within it (e.g., a 6.6 x 3.3 ft (2 x 1 m) sheet).
It is also possible to bend sheets larger than the sheetpress, as long as the bended part fits the press (second image is a 2x1 sheet).
![IMG_6405.jpg](./IMG_6405.jpg)
@ -63,7 +69,7 @@ You can also bend sheets larger than the press, provided the bent section fits w
### Step 4: Bend the sheets!
Once the sheets are adequately heated, promptly transfer them to the mold, as they cool rapidly. Ensure all clamps are accessible. It is advisable to have a second person assist with this task.
After heating up the sheets sufficiently it is time to move it to the mould. This requires some fast handling, since it quickly cools down again. Be sure to have all the clamps within reach! It also helps to do this with two persons.
![20200720_113045.jpg](./20200720_113045.jpg)
@ -75,57 +81,4 @@ Once the sheets are adequately heated, promptly transfer them to the mold, as th
![IMG_6204.jpg](./IMG_6204.jpg)
## Resources
### Tools
- Sheet press
- Mould
- Clamps
### Hardware
- 1/8 inch (3 mm) MDF sheet
- Adjustable bottom bed (for gap adjustment)
### Materials (additional category inferred from context)
- Plastic sheets/solid surfaces/extruded beams (specified thickness)
- Heat-resistant safety equipment (implied for handling heated sheets)
Key process elements:
- Temperature control (material-dependent)
- Counter molds (recommended for complex shapes)
- Two-person handling (for rapid transfer)
Local resources in Amsterdam:
- MDF sheets: Available at Praxis or Gamma stores
- Fabrication services: For custom molds (3D printing/machining workshops)
## References
## Articles
- Bend with the Sheetpress - [filtered] Academy
- [Sheet Metal Bending Guide - Gestión De Compras](https://www.gestiondecompras.com/en/products/sheet-metal/sheet-metal-bending/)
- [ABS Plastic Bending Guide - BeePlastic](https://www.beeplastic.com/blogs/plastic-insights/a-beginner-s-guide-to-bending-abs-plastic-sheets-and-rods)
- [Line Bending Process Guide - Notes & Sketches](https://www.notesandsketches.co.uk/PDF/Line_Bending_Process.pdf)
- [filtered] Sheetpress Overview - One Army
- [filtered] Bending Guide - [filtered] Academy
- [Sheet Press Process - Junklabz](https://www.junklabz.com/sheet-press)
- [[filtered] Sheetpress Guide - Huaaoplastics](https://www.huaaoplastics.com/resources/the-ultimate-guide-to-the-precious-plastic-sheetpress.html)
- Sheetpress Workspace Setup - [filtered] Academy
## Books
- [Designing the Internet of Things - MADSG](https://madsg.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/Designing_the_Internet_of_Things.pdf)
## Papers
- ~~[Plastic Bending: Theory and Applications - World Scientific](https://www.worldscientific.com/doi/10.1142/9789812797070_0001)~~
## YouTube
- [Recycled Plastic Sheet Tutorial - [filtered]](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IPEsbg7AmVE)
## Opensource Designs
- [filtered] Sheetpress Blueprints
## References

16
howtos/bend-with-the-sheetpress/config.json
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@ -29,10 +29,10 @@
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],
"text": "To achieve consistent results, use a mold for bending. For larger projects, sharp corners, or intricate shapes, consider a counter mold to ensure proper shaping. Plan clamp placement to ensure sufficient space for secure attachment."
"text": "To have a consistent result it's best to use a mould for the bending. For bigger projects, sharp corners or intricate shapes a counter mould is recommended! This ensures the sheets is pushed in the right shape.\n\nIt’s also important to keep in mind where the clamps will be placed so make sure there is space for the clamps to grab on to."
},
{
"text": "The next step is to determine temperature and timing.\n\nTemperature varies based on plastic type and thickness. Check if the plastic bends sufficiently or experiment with smaller pieces before using larger sheets.\n\nBelow are some settings we have utilized.",
"text": "The next step is to decide on temperature and timing. \n\nThe right temperature depends on the plastic type and thickness. You can check in between to see if it bends far enough or experiment with smaller pieces before starting with bigger sheets.\n\nBelow are some of the settings we have worked with.\n\n",
"title": "Temperature and timing",
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{
@ -63,7 +63,7 @@
"_animationKey": "unique2"
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"text": "Place the plastic on a 1/8 inch (3 mm) MDF sheet to prevent sticking to the press. Position the sheet and adjust the bottom bed upwards, leaving a 3/8 inch (1 cm) gap. \n\nYou can also bend sheets larger than the press, provided the bent section fits within it (e.g., a 6.6 x 3.3 ft (2 x 1 m) sheet).",
"text": "We placed the plastic on top of a 3mm sheet of mdf to make sure it doesn’t stick to the press. Once the sheet is in place move the bottom bed to the top so it’s almost closed (see picture). A distance of 1 cm should be ok.\n\nIt is also possible to bend sheets larger than the sheetpress, as long as the bended part fits the press (second image is a 2x1 sheet).",
"_animationKey": "unique3",
"title": "Place in the Sheetpress",
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@ -96,7 +96,7 @@
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"title": "Bend the sheets!",
"_animationKey": "uniquechktx",
"text": "Once the sheets are adequately heated, promptly transfer them to the mold, as they cool rapidly. Ensure all clamps are accessible. It is advisable to have a second person assist with this task.",
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"description": "We have used the sheetpress as a tool for bending plastic sheets, solid surface materials or even extruded beams. The process is quite simple but might require some preparation to get the best results. Below are the steps taken to do this, although there is still room for further improvements! \n\nTools needed:\n-\tSheet press\n-\tSome kind of mould\n-\tClamps\n",
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}
},
"content": "The sheet press is utilized for bending plastic sheets, solid surfaces, or extruded beams. The process is straightforward but may need preparation for optimal results. Follow these steps for effective use:\n\n**Tools Required:**\n- Sheet press\n- Mould\n- Clamps\n\n\nUser Location: Amsterdam, Netherlands (Kingdom of the)\n\nTo achieve consistent results, use a mold for bending. For larger projects, sharp corners, or intricate shapes, consider a counter mold to ensure proper shaping. Plan clamp placement to ensure sufficient space for secure attachment.\n\nThe next step is to determine temperature and timing.\n\nTemperature varies based on plastic type and thickness. Check if the plastic bends sufficiently or experiment with smaller pieces before using larger sheets.\n\nBelow are some settings we have utilized.\n\nPlace the plastic on a 1/8 inch (3 mm) MDF sheet to prevent sticking to the press. Position the sheet and adjust the bottom bed upwards, leaving a 3/8 inch (1 cm) gap. \n\nYou can also bend sheets larger than the press, provided the bent section fits within it (e.g., a 6.6 x 3.3 ft (2 x 1 m) sheet).\n\nOnce the sheets are adequately heated, promptly transfer them to the mold, as they cool rapidly. Ensure all clamps are accessible. It is advisable to have a second person assist with this task.",
"keywords": "sheet press, plastic bending, plastic sheets, bending tools, moulding process, clamp placement, temperature settings, extruded beams, plastic shaping, press techniques",
"resources": "### Tools\n\n- Sheet press\n- Mould\n- Clamps\n\n### Hardware\n\n- 1/8 inch (3 mm) MDF sheet\n- Adjustable bottom bed (for gap adjustment)\n\n### Materials (additional category inferred from context)\n\n- Plastic sheets/solid surfaces/extruded beams (specified thickness)\n- Heat-resistant safety equipment (implied for handling heated sheets)\n\nKey process elements:\n\n- Temperature control (material-dependent)\n- Counter molds (recommended for complex shapes)\n- Two-person handling (for rapid transfer)\n\nLocal resources in Amsterdam:\n\n- MDF sheets: Available at Praxis or Gamma stores\n- Fabrication services: For custom molds (3D printing/machining workshops)",
"references": "## Articles\n\n- Bend with the Sheetpress - [filtered] Academy\n- [Sheet Metal Bending Guide - Gestión De Compras](https://www.gestiondecompras.com/en/products/sheet-metal/sheet-metal-bending/)\n- [ABS Plastic Bending Guide - BeePlastic](https://www.beeplastic.com/blogs/plastic-insights/a-beginner-s-guide-to-bending-abs-plastic-sheets-and-rods)\n- [Line Bending Process Guide - Notes & Sketches](https://www.notesandsketches.co.uk/PDF/Line_Bending_Process.pdf)\n- [filtered] Sheetpress Overview - One Army\n- [filtered] Bending Guide - [filtered] Academy\n- [Sheet Press Process - Junklabz](https://www.junklabz.com/sheet-press)\n- [[filtered] Sheetpress Guide - Huaaoplastics](https://www.huaaoplastics.com/resources/the-ultimate-guide-to-the-precious-plastic-sheetpress.html)\n- Sheetpress Workspace Setup - [filtered] Academy\n\n## Books\n\n- [Designing the Internet of Things - MADSG](https://madsg.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/Designing_the_Internet_of_Things.pdf)\n\n## Papers\n\n- ~~[Plastic Bending: Theory and Applications - World Scientific](https://www.worldscientific.com/doi/10.1142/9789812797070_0001)~~\n\n## YouTube\n\n- [Recycled Plastic Sheet Tutorial - [filtered]](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IPEsbg7AmVE)\n\n## Opensource Designs\n\n- [filtered] Sheetpress Blueprints",
"brief": "Bend plastic sheets easily with a sheet press. Utilize molds and clamps for precise shaping. Ensure correct temperature and timing for optimal results."
"content": "We have used the sheetpress as a tool for bending plastic sheets, solid surface materials or even extruded beams. The process is quite simple but might require some preparation to get the best results. Below are the steps taken to do this, although there is still room for further improvements! \n\nTools needed:\n-\tSheet press\n-\tSome kind of mould\n-\tClamps\n\n\n\nUser Location: Amsterdam, Netherlands (Kingdom of the)\n\nTo have a consistent result it's best to use a mould for the bending. For bigger projects, sharp corners or intricate shapes a counter mould is recommended! This ensures the sheets is pushed in the right shape.\n\nIt’s also important to keep in mind where the clamps will be placed so make sure there is space for the clamps to grab on to.\n\nThe next step is to decide on temperature and timing. \n\nThe right temperature depends on the plastic type and thickness. You can check in between to see if it bends far enough or experiment with smaller pieces before starting with bigger sheets.\n\nBelow are some of the settings we have worked with.\n\n\n\nWe placed the plastic on top of a 3mm sheet of mdf to make sure it doesn’t stick to the press. Once the sheet is in place move the bottom bed to the top so it’s almost closed (see picture). A distance of 1 cm should be ok.\n\nIt is also possible to bend sheets larger than the sheetpress, as long as the bended part fits the press (second image is a 2x1 sheet).\n\nAfter heating up the sheets sufficiently it is time to move it to the mould. This requires some fast handling, since it quickly cools down again. Be sure to have all the clamps within reach! It also helps to do this with two persons. "
}

111
howtos/bicycle-shredder-v2/README.md
View File

@ -1,36 +1,37 @@
---
title: Bicycle Shredder V2
slug: bicycle-shredder-v2
description: This tutorial provides an overview of constructing a bicycle shredder. Eighteen months ago, we released a video on building the original bicycle shredder. We have since improved the design and documentation and now present the enhanced second version.
description: In this how-to we’re giving you an overview about the construction of our bicycle shredder. One and a half years ago we made the first video about how to build a bicycle shredder. Since then, we made further adjustments and are now proud to present you the second version of the machine (with a much better documentation).
tags: ["hack","shredder"]
category: Machines
difficulty: Very Hard
time: 3-4 weeks
keywords: bicycle shredder, construction tutorial, shredder design, assembly information, high-speed shredding, axle manufacturing, plastic shredding, steel frame construction, workshop safety, human-powered machinery
keywords:
location: Dresden, Germany
---
# Bicycle Shredder V2
![Bicycle Shredder V2](ND800_0005336_Loehrer.jpg)
This tutorial provides an overview of constructing a bicycle shredder. Eighteen months ago, we released a video on building the original bicycle shredder. We have since improved the design and documentation and now present the enhanced second version.
In this how-to we’re giving you an overview about the construction of our bicycle shredder. One and a half years ago we made the first video about how to build a bicycle shredder. Since then, we made further adjustments and are now proud to present you the second version of the machine (with a much better documentation).
User Location: Dresden, Germany
## Steps
### Step 1: Get ready!
### Assembly Information for Makers
In the download package you find a lot of files and drawings. At first sight it might be overwhelming, but don’t be afraid, we’re taking care of you ;-).
In addition to the download-kit, the following steps will give you further information, why the shredder is built the way it is. Furthermore a short introduction video and an assembling video is in the making to get a better understanding about the construction. Stay tuned!
The download package contains numerous files and drawings. While it may seem overwhelming initially, the following steps provide further insights into the shredder's design. A brief introduction video and an assembly video are forthcoming to enhance understanding of the construction.
[Download Link](https://www.dropbox.com/sh/xlts122wcb905q6/AABRgMZTki8gH1NqQ5SvOS-Ia?dl=0)
Download-Link: <a class="text-orange-600 underline" href="https://www.dropbox.com/sh/xlts122wcb905q6/AABRgMZTki8gH1NqQ5SvOS-Ia?dl=0" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">dropbox.com: dropbox.com/sh/xlts122wcb905q6/AABRgMZTki8gH1NqQ5SvOS-Ia?dl=0</a>
![ND800_0005383_freigestellt_Loehrer.jpg](./ND800_0005383_freigestellt_Loehrer.jpg)
### Step 2: Cutting Mill
Most low-speed shredders observed online or within the community tend to be large, heavy, or inefficient. Opting for high-speed shredding utilizes inertia effectively. We chose to shred materials using human-powered high-speed methods.
Nearly all low speed shredders we saw in the community or around the internet were huge, heavy or sometimes not even working proper and efficient. Using high speed instead, we have the power of inertia :-). So we decided to shred plastic with human power at high speed.
There are different ways to build the axle. We decided to spend a bit more money on standard parts to reduce costs as machining and post machining on the lathe. That’s why we use those span sockets. However, we are aware that these components are not available in every country in the world. Take a look on the possibilities and competencies around you, it is also possible to manufacture the axle in a different way.
Various designs exist for constructing the axle. We opted to invest in standard parts to minimize further machining costs. We use span sockets for this reason. However, we recognize these components may not be available in all regions. Explore local resources and capabilities to discover alternative methods for axle manufacturing.
![cutting mill.jpg](./cutting_mill.jpg)
@ -40,9 +41,7 @@ Various designs exist for constructing the axle. We opted to invest in standard
### Step 3: Material Lock
### Shredding Plastic with the Bicycle Shredder
For effective shredding with the bicycle shredder, the cutting mill's knives must rotate at high speed. To safely introduce plastic into the cutting mill without opening it, we initially experimented with various pipe lock designs. However, these proved unreliable, leading us to create a more traditional hopper instead. Although the new hopper is larger and heavier than previous versions, it provides increased stability and safety during operation.
Shredding plastic with the bicycle shredder - the knives of the cutting mill should run at high speed. To ensure a safe and stable shredding process, we needed a way to get the plastic into the cutting mill without opening it. In the past we worked with several versions of a pipe lock. Finally, we dismissed the pipe lock because of malfunctions. That's why we developed a more classic and simple version of a save hopper. The downside of the new version is the huge size and weight compared to the old one.
![height adjustment.jpg](./height_adjustment.jpg)
@ -52,27 +51,26 @@ For effective shredding with the bicycle shredder, the cutting mill's knives mus
### Step 4: Sieve and Collection Box
The sieve and collection box are constructed from bent and welded metal sheets. Use a sieve with holes approximately 5-8 mm (3/16-5/16 inches) in diameter. Smaller holes may reduce the plastic to dust. Ensure the metal sheet is of sufficient thickness for stability and the locking system; 1.5 mm (1/16 inch) is recommended.
The sieve and collection box is nothing really special, just bended and welded metal sheets. We recommend using a sieve with holes about 5 - 8 mm in diameter. Very small holes will turn the plastic nearly into dust. Don't go too thin with the thickness of the metal sheet. It is important for stability and the locking system! 1,5 mm are a good size.
![collection box sieve.png](./collection_box_sieve.png)
### Step 5: Friction Wheel
The friction wheel transfers speed from the rear wheel to the cutting mill. We make the wheel from plywood because it can be milled using our CNC machine. However, better materials, such as certain plastics, are available for the friction wheel.
The friction wheel transfers the speed from the rear wheel to the cutting mill. We use plywood for the wheel because we can mill it with our own cnc machine. Nethertheless there are definitely better materials for the friction wheel, for example something out of plastic.
![friction wheel.jpg](./friction_wheel.jpg)
### Step 6: Steel Frame
### Steel Frame Construction Guide
Building the steel frame requires proper knowledge and experience in welding and working with metal. If you’re new in the game, look for someone with experience in metalwork.To simplify the welding process we prepared gauges -> plywood sheets to keep the right distances between the steel tubes and some big 45° angles.
Constructing the steel frame necessitates expertise in welding and metalwork. Beginners should consult an experienced metalworker. Use plywood sheet gauges to maintain correct distances between steel tubes and employ large 45° angles to streamline the welding process.
Before welding everything make sure everything is drilled and milled into the steel tubes. Afterwards it's a bit tricky to get them to the right places!
Ensure all holes and slots are drilled and milled into the steel tubes prior to welding, as alignment becomes challenging afterwards.
Another advice: welding the m16 nuts; make sure the two nuts are in one alignment. That's important to clamp the rear-wheel right in place. We take a long steel bar (14mm in diameter).
For welding M16 nuts, align both nuts to properly secure the rear wheel. Use a 14mm (0.55 inches) diameter steel bar for this purpose.
![ND800_0005340_Loehrer.jpg](./ND800_0005340_Loehrer.jpg)
@ -82,14 +80,18 @@ For welding M16 nuts, align both nuts to properly secure the rear wheel. Use a 1
### Step 7: Height Adjustment
Adjusting the height is a simple task. A small steel strip is welded to a clamping ring for the turning knob, and the rest consists of standard components.
The height adjustment is one of the fastest things you can realise :-).
For the turning knob we welded a small steel strip on a clamping ring. The rest of it are just ready-to-use standard parts.
![height adjustment.jpg](./height_adjustment.jpg)
### Step 8: Wheel Mount
The wheel-mount involves considerable lathe work but is straightforward. For the turning knob, we cut a piece from a thick metal sheet and welded it to a nut. Alternatively, you can create the knob using steel strips and an angle grinder.
The wheel-mount is a lot of lathe work but not too complex!
For the turning knob we lasered a part out of a thick metal sheet and welded it on a nut. Instead of a lasered part you can realise the turning knob as well by some steel strips and an angle grinder.
![wheel mount.jpg](./wheel_mount.jpg)
@ -102,72 +104,21 @@ The wheel-mount involves considerable lathe work but is straightforward. For the
### Step 9: Safety Add-ons
### Workshop Safety Guidelines
Workshops involve diverse participants, and safety is a top priority. We implement a color-coded system for handling equipment:
Workshops with different kinds of people are our daily business. That is why we care a lot about safety!
To ensure an easy and understandable handling, a good way is to use our color system.
- Green: Everybody can touch/use it.
- Orange: The team can touch/use it.
- Red: Keep your body away from it, it's f***ing dangerous!
In addition to the color system we use common warning signs and tips and tricks written on the machine.
- **Green:** Accessible to everyone.
- **Orange:** Restricted to team members.
- **Red:** Extremely hazardous; avoid contact.
Furthermore we build safety add-ons, such as the belt protection and the shaft protection.
In addition to our color system, we use standard warning signs and machine-specific instructions. We also install safety features like belt and shaft protections.
If you have ideas how to make the machine safer and better, feel free to share it with us and the community!
Your suggestions for improving machine safety are welcome.
![shaft protection + belt protection.jpg](./shaft_protection_belt_protection.jpg)
## Resources
To build the enhanced bicycle shredder, key components and resources are organized into three main categories, each containing critical elements extracted from the tutorial documentation[1].
### Tools & Workshop Equipment
- Welding equipment (MIG/TIG recommended)
- Lathe (for wheel-mount fabrication)
- Angle grinder (for steel cutting/shaping)
- CNC machine (plywood friction wheel milling)
- Drilling/milling tools (pre-welding preparation)
### Hardware Components
- Steel tubes (14mm diameter bar for frame)
- Span sockets (axle components)
- M16 nuts (rear wheel mounting)
- 1.5mm metal sheets (sieve/collection box)
- Plywood sheets (friction wheel & alignment jigs)
### Software & Documentation
- [Design package](https://www.dropbox.com/sh/xlts122wcb905q6/AABRgMZTki8gH1NqQ5SvOS-Ia?dl=0) (CAD files & technical drawings)
- Assembly video tutorials (forthcoming)
- Sieve specifications (5-8mm holes)
- Metalworking guidelines (bending/welding)
- Safety system documentation (color codes/operational protocols)[1]
Consult the design package and adjust components based on regional availability of materials like span sockets[1]. Prioritize safety protocols during assembly and operation.
## References
## References
### Articles
- *No links provided*
### Books
- *No links provided*
### Papers
- *No links provided*
### YouTube
- *No links provided*
### Opensource Designs
- [Bicycle Shredder Design Files](https://www.dropbox.com/sh/xlts122wcb905q6/AABRgMZTki8gH1NqQ5SvOS-Ia?dl=0)
### Other
- *No links provided*
## References

26
howtos/bicycle-shredder-v2/config.json
View File

@ -9,7 +9,7 @@
"_createdBy": "kunststoffschmiede",
"steps": [
{
"text": "### Assembly Information for Makers\n\nThe download package contains numerous files and drawings. While it may seem overwhelming initially, the following steps provide further insights into the shredder's design. A brief introduction video and an assembly video are forthcoming to enhance understanding of the construction. \n\n[Download Link](https://www.dropbox.com/sh/xlts122wcb905q6/AABRgMZTki8gH1NqQ5SvOS-Ia?dl=0)",
"text": "In the download package you find a lot of files and drawings. At first sight it might be overwhelming, but don’t be afraid, we’re taking care of you ;-).\nIn addition to the download-kit, the following steps will give you further information, why the shredder is built the way it is. Furthermore a short introduction video and an assembling video is in the making to get a better understanding about the construction. Stay tuned!\n\nDownload-Link: <a class=\"text-orange-600 underline\" href=\"https://www.dropbox.com/sh/xlts122wcb905q6/AABRgMZTki8gH1NqQ5SvOS-Ia?dl=0\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">dropbox.com: dropbox.com/sh/xlts122wcb905q6/AABRgMZTki8gH1NqQ5SvOS-Ia?dl=0</a>",
"images": [
{
"contentType": "image/jpeg",
@ -57,11 +57,11 @@
"alt": "ND800_0005357_Loehrer.jpg"
}
],
"text": "Most low-speed shredders observed online or within the community tend to be large, heavy, or inefficient. Opting for high-speed shredding utilizes inertia effectively. We chose to shred materials using human-powered high-speed methods.\n\nVarious designs exist for constructing the axle. We opted to invest in standard parts to minimize further machining costs. We use span sockets for this reason. However, we recognize these components may not be available in all regions. Explore local resources and capabilities to discover alternative methods for axle manufacturing."
"text": "Nearly all low speed shredders we saw in the community or around the internet were huge, heavy or sometimes not even working proper and efficient. Using high speed instead, we have the power of inertia :-). So we decided to shred plastic with human power at high speed.\nThere are different ways to build the axle. We decided to spend a bit more money on standard parts to reduce costs as machining and post machining on the lathe. That’s why we use those span sockets. However, we are aware that these components are not available in every country in the world. Take a look on the possibilities and competencies around you, it is also possible to manufacture the axle in a different way.\n\n \n"
},
{
"caption": "",
"text": "### Shredding Plastic with the Bicycle Shredder\n\nFor effective shredding with the bicycle shredder, the cutting mill's knives must rotate at high speed. To safely introduce plastic into the cutting mill without opening it, we initially experimented with various pipe lock designs. However, these proved unreliable, leading us to create a more traditional hopper instead. Although the new hopper is larger and heavier than previous versions, it provides increased stability and safety during operation.",
"text": "Shredding plastic with the bicycle shredder - the knives of the cutting mill should run at high speed. To ensure a safe and stable shredding process, we needed a way to get the plastic into the cutting mill without opening it. In the past we worked with several versions of a pipe lock. Finally, we dismissed the pipe lock because of malfunctions. That's why we developed a more classic and simple version of a save hopper. The downside of the new version is the huge size and weight compared to the old one.",
"_animationKey": "unique2",
"images": [
{
@ -106,7 +106,7 @@
"alt": "collection box sieve.png"
}
],
"text": "The sieve and collection box are constructed from bent and welded metal sheets. Use a sieve with holes approximately 5-8 mm (3/16-5/16 inches) in diameter. Smaller holes may reduce the plastic to dust. Ensure the metal sheet is of sufficient thickness for stability and the locking system; 1.5 mm (1/16 inch) is recommended.",
"text": "The sieve and collection box is nothing really special, just bended and welded metal sheets. We recommend using a sieve with holes about 5 - 8 mm in diameter. Very small holes will turn the plastic nearly into dust. Don't go too thin with the thickness of the metal sheet. It is important for stability and the locking system! 1,5 mm are a good size.",
"caption": "",
"title": "Sieve and Collection Box",
"_animationKey": "unique3"
@ -128,10 +128,10 @@
],
"_animationKey": "uniqueq0cp1n",
"title": "Friction Wheel",
"text": "The friction wheel transfers speed from the rear wheel to the cutting mill. We make the wheel from plywood because it can be milled using our CNC machine. However, better materials, such as certain plastics, are available for the friction wheel."
"text": "The friction wheel transfers the speed from the rear wheel to the cutting mill. We use plywood for the wheel because we can mill it with our own cnc machine. Nethertheless there are definitely better materials for the friction wheel, for example something out of plastic."
},
{
"text": "### Steel Frame Construction Guide\n\nConstructing the steel frame necessitates expertise in welding and metalwork. Beginners should consult an experienced metalworker. Use plywood sheet gauges to maintain correct distances between steel tubes and employ large 45° angles to streamline the welding process.\n\nEnsure all holes and slots are drilled and milled into the steel tubes prior to welding, as alignment becomes challenging afterwards.\n\nFor welding M16 nuts, align both nuts to properly secure the rear wheel. Use a 14mm (0.55 inches) diameter steel bar for this purpose.",
"text": "Building the steel frame requires proper knowledge and experience in welding and working with metal. If you’re new in the game, look for someone with experience in metalwork.To simplify the welding process we prepared gauges -> plywood sheets to keep the right distances between the steel tubes and some big 45° angles.\n\nBefore welding everything make sure everything is drilled and milled into the steel tubes. Afterwards it's a bit tricky to get them to the right places!\n\nAnother advice: welding the m16 nuts; make sure the two nuts are in one alignment. That's important to clamp the rear-wheel right in place. We take a long steel bar (14mm in diameter).\n",
"images": [
{
"updated": "2021-02-01T21:52:28.903Z",
@ -162,7 +162,7 @@
"title": "Steel Frame"
},
{
"text": "Adjusting the height is a simple task. A small steel strip is welded to a clamping ring for the turning knob, and the rest consists of standard components.",
"text": "The height adjustment is one of the fastest things you can realise :-).\nFor the turning knob we welded a small steel strip on a clamping ring. The rest of it are just ready-to-use standard parts.\n",
"title": "Height Adjustment",
"_animationKey": "unique3kueh8",
"images": [
@ -220,11 +220,11 @@
"alt": "ND800_0005379_Loehrer.jpg"
}
],
"text": "The wheel-mount involves considerable lathe work but is straightforward. For the turning knob, we cut a piece from a thick metal sheet and welded it to a nut. Alternatively, you can create the knob using steel strips and an angle grinder.",
"text": "The wheel-mount is a lot of lathe work but not too complex!\nFor the turning knob we lasered a part out of a thick metal sheet and welded it on a nut. Instead of a lasered part you can realise the turning knob as well by some steel strips and an angle grinder. \n",
"title": "Wheel Mount"
},
{
"text": "### Workshop Safety Guidelines\n\nWorkshops involve diverse participants, and safety is a top priority. We implement a color-coded system for handling equipment:\n\n- **Green:** Accessible to everyone.\n- **Orange:** Restricted to team members.\n- **Red:** Extremely hazardous; avoid contact.\n\nIn addition to our color system, we use standard warning signs and machine-specific instructions. We also install safety features like belt and shaft protections.\n\nYour suggestions for improving machine safety are welcome.",
"text": "\nWorkshops with different kinds of people are our daily business. That is why we care a lot about safety!\nTo ensure an easy and understandable handling, a good way is to use our color system.\n- Green: Everybody can touch/use it.\n- Orange: The team can touch/use it.\n- Red: Keep your body away from it, it's f***ing dangerous!\nIn addition to the color system we use common warning signs and tips and tricks written on the machine.\n\nFurthermore we build safety add-ons, such as the belt protection and the shaft protection.\n\nIf you have ideas how to make the machine safer and better, feel free to share it with us and the community!\n",
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"description": "In this how-to we’re giving you an overview about the construction of our bicycle shredder. One and a half years ago we made the first video about how to build a bicycle shredder. Since then, we made further adjustments and are now proud to present you the second version of the machine (with a much better documentation).",
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"content": "This tutorial provides an overview of constructing a bicycle shredder. Eighteen months ago, we released a video on building the original bicycle shredder. We have since improved the design and documentation and now present the enhanced second version.\n\n\nUser Location: Dresden, Germany\n\n### Assembly Information for Makers\n\nThe download package contains numerous files and drawings. While it may seem overwhelming initially, the following steps provide further insights into the shredder's design. A brief introduction video and an assembly video are forthcoming to enhance understanding of the construction. \n\n[Download Link](https://www.dropbox.com/sh/xlts122wcb905q6/AABRgMZTki8gH1NqQ5SvOS-Ia?dl=0)\n\nMost low-speed shredders observed online or within the community tend to be large, heavy, or inefficient. Opting for high-speed shredding utilizes inertia effectively. We chose to shred materials using human-powered high-speed methods.\n\nVarious designs exist for constructing the axle. We opted to invest in standard parts to minimize further machining costs. We use span sockets for this reason. However, we recognize these components may not be available in all regions. Explore local resources and capabilities to discover alternative methods for axle manufacturing.\n\n### Shredding Plastic with the Bicycle Shredder\n\nFor effective shredding with the bicycle shredder, the cutting mill's knives must rotate at high speed. To safely introduce plastic into the cutting mill without opening it, we initially experimented with various pipe lock designs. However, these proved unreliable, leading us to create a more traditional hopper instead. Although the new hopper is larger and heavier than previous versions, it provides increased stability and safety during operation.\n\nThe sieve and collection box are constructed from bent and welded metal sheets. Use a sieve with holes approximately 5-8 mm (3/16-5/16 inches) in diameter. Smaller holes may reduce the plastic to dust. Ensure the metal sheet is of sufficient thickness for stability and the locking system; 1.5 mm (1/16 inch) is recommended.\n\nThe friction wheel transfers speed from the rear wheel to the cutting mill. We make the wheel from plywood because it can be milled using our CNC machine. However, better materials, such as certain plastics, are available for the friction wheel.\n\n### Steel Frame Construction Guide\n\nConstructing the steel frame necessitates expertise in welding and metalwork. Beginners should consult an experienced metalworker. Use plywood sheet gauges to maintain correct distances between steel tubes and employ large 45° angles to streamline the welding process.\n\nEnsure all holes and slots are drilled and milled into the steel tubes prior to welding, as alignment becomes challenging afterwards.\n\nFor welding M16 nuts, align both nuts to properly secure the rear wheel. Use a 14mm (0.55 inches) diameter steel bar for this purpose.\n\nAdjusting the height is a simple task. A small steel strip is welded to a clamping ring for the turning knob, and the rest consists of standard components.\n\nThe wheel-mount involves considerable lathe work but is straightforward. For the turning knob, we cut a piece from a thick metal sheet and welded it to a nut. Alternatively, you can create the knob using steel strips and an angle grinder.\n\n### Workshop Safety Guidelines\n\nWorkshops involve diverse participants, and safety is a top priority. We implement a color-coded system for handling equipment:\n\n- **Green:** Accessible to everyone.\n- **Orange:** Restricted to team members.\n- **Red:** Extremely hazardous; avoid contact.\n\nIn addition to our color system, we use standard warning signs and machine-specific instructions. We also install safety features like belt and shaft protections.\n\nYour suggestions for improving machine safety are welcome.",
"keywords": "bicycle shredder, construction tutorial, shredder design, assembly information, high-speed shredding, axle manufacturing, plastic shredding, steel frame construction, workshop safety, human-powered machinery",
"resources": "To build the enhanced bicycle shredder, key components and resources are organized into three main categories, each containing critical elements extracted from the tutorial documentation[1].\n\n### Tools & Workshop Equipment\n\n- Welding equipment (MIG/TIG recommended)\n- Lathe (for wheel-mount fabrication)\n- Angle grinder (for steel cutting/shaping)\n- CNC machine (plywood friction wheel milling)\n- Drilling/milling tools (pre-welding preparation)\n\n### Hardware Components\n\n- Steel tubes (14mm diameter bar for frame)\n- Span sockets (axle components)\n- M16 nuts (rear wheel mounting)\n- 1.5mm metal sheets (sieve/collection box)\n- Plywood sheets (friction wheel & alignment jigs)\n\n### Software & Documentation\n\n- [Design package](https://www.dropbox.com/sh/xlts122wcb905q6/AABRgMZTki8gH1NqQ5SvOS-Ia?dl=0) (CAD files & technical drawings)\n- Assembly video tutorials (forthcoming)\n- Sieve specifications (5-8mm holes)\n- Metalworking guidelines (bending/welding)\n- Safety system documentation (color codes/operational protocols)[1]\n\nConsult the design package and adjust components based on regional availability of materials like span sockets[1]. Prioritize safety protocols during assembly and operation.",
"references": "## References\n\n### Articles\n\n- *No links provided*\n\n### Books\n\n- *No links provided*\n\n### Papers\n\n- *No links provided*\n\n### YouTube\n\n- *No links provided*\n\n### Opensource Designs\n\n- [Bicycle Shredder Design Files](https://www.dropbox.com/sh/xlts122wcb905q6/AABRgMZTki8gH1NqQ5SvOS-Ia?dl=0)\n\n### Other\n\n- *No links provided*",
"brief": "Learn to construct an enhanced bicycle shredder with our tutorial! Discover updated designs, safety tips, and assembly info for efficient high-speed shredding."
"content": "In this how-to we’re giving you an overview about the construction of our bicycle shredder. One and a half years ago we made the first video about how to build a bicycle shredder. Since then, we made further adjustments and are now proud to present you the second version of the machine (with a much better documentation).\n\n\nUser Location: Dresden, Germany\n\nIn the download package you find a lot of files and drawings. At first sight it might be overwhelming, but don’t be afraid, we’re taking care of you ;-).\nIn addition to the download-kit, the following steps will give you further information, why the shredder is built the way it is. Furthermore a short introduction video and an assembling video is in the making to get a better understanding about the construction. Stay tuned!\n\nDownload-Link: <a class=\"text-orange-600 underline\" href=\"https://www.dropbox.com/sh/xlts122wcb905q6/AABRgMZTki8gH1NqQ5SvOS-Ia?dl=0\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">dropbox.com: dropbox.com/sh/xlts122wcb905q6/AABRgMZTki8gH1NqQ5SvOS-Ia?dl=0</a>\n\nNearly all low speed shredders we saw in the community or around the internet were huge, heavy or sometimes not even working proper and efficient. Using high speed instead, we have the power of inertia :-). So we decided to shred plastic with human power at high speed.\nThere are different ways to build the axle. We decided to spend a bit more money on standard parts to reduce costs as machining and post machining on the lathe. That’s why we use those span sockets. However, we are aware that these components are not available in every country in the world. Take a look on the possibilities and competencies around you, it is also possible to manufacture the axle in a different way.\n\n \n\n\nShredding plastic with the bicycle shredder - the knives of the cutting mill should run at high speed. To ensure a safe and stable shredding process, we needed a way to get the plastic into the cutting mill without opening it. In the past we worked with several versions of a pipe lock. Finally, we dismissed the pipe lock because of malfunctions. That's why we developed a more classic and simple version of a save hopper. The downside of the new version is the huge size and weight compared to the old one.\n\nThe sieve and collection box is nothing really special, just bended and welded metal sheets. We recommend using a sieve with holes about 5 - 8 mm in diameter. Very small holes will turn the plastic nearly into dust. Don't go too thin with the thickness of the metal sheet. It is important for stability and the locking system! 1,5 mm are a good size.\n\nThe friction wheel transfers the speed from the rear wheel to the cutting mill. We use plywood for the wheel because we can mill it with our own cnc machine. Nethertheless there are definitely better materials for the friction wheel, for example something out of plastic.\n\nBuilding the steel frame requires proper knowledge and experience in welding and working with metal. If you’re new in the game, look for someone with experience in metalwork.To simplify the welding process we prepared gauges -> plywood sheets to keep the right distances between the steel tubes and some big 45° angles.\n\nBefore welding everything make sure everything is drilled and milled into the steel tubes. Afterwards it's a bit tricky to get them to the right places!\n\nAnother advice: welding the m16 nuts; make sure the two nuts are in one alignment. That's important to clamp the rear-wheel right in place. We take a long steel bar (14mm in diameter).\n\n\nThe height adjustment is one of the fastest things you can realise :-).\nFor the turning knob we welded a small steel strip on a clamping ring. The rest of it are just ready-to-use standard parts.\n\n\nThe wheel-mount is a lot of lathe work but not too complex!\nFor the turning knob we lasered a part out of a thick metal sheet and welded it on a nut. Instead of a lasered part you can realise the turning knob as well by some steel strips and an angle grinder. \n\n\n\nWorkshops with different kinds of people are our daily business. That is why we care a lot about safety!\nTo ensure an easy and understandable handling, a good way is to use our color system.\n- Green: Everybody can touch/use it.\n- Orange: The team can touch/use it.\n- Red: Keep your body away from it, it's f***ing dangerous!\nIn addition to the color system we use common warning signs and tips and tricks written on the machine.\n\nFurthermore we build safety add-ons, such as the belt protection and the shaft protection.\n\nIf you have ideas how to make the machine safer and better, feel free to share it with us and the community!\n"
}

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howtos/bike-pedals--grips-mould/README.md
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@ -1,42 +1,40 @@
---
title: Bike Pedals & Grips Mould
slug: bike-pedals--grips-mould
description: # How-To: Mold Creation
This tutorial explains how I created the mold. While injecting the pedal is quick, fabricating the mold requires significant time. Milling the mold is recommended if feasible, as welding is time-intensive. The 3D model is available for download to customize your own version.
description: In this How-To I describe how I made the mold.
Injecting the pedal is fast but making the mold takes time. I suggest you to mill the mold if you have the possibility because I welded the mold and this is time consuming. You can download the 3D model and make your own version.
tags: ["HDPE","injection","mould"]
category: Moulds
difficulty: Medium
time: < 1 day
keywords: Mold creation, injection molding, 3D model download, metal fabrication, welding instructions, plastic materials comparison, pedal fabrication, DIY mold tutorial, safety equipment for welding, metal cutting techniques
keywords:
location:
---
# Bike Pedals & Grips Mould
![Bike Pedals & Grips Mould](marquage2-18391d70aa8.jpg)
# How-To: Mold Creation
This tutorial explains how I created the mold. While injecting the pedal is quick, fabricating the mold requires significant time. Milling the mold is recommended if feasible, as welding is time-intensive. The 3D model is available for download to customize your own version.
In this How-To I describe how I made the mold.
Injecting the pedal is fast but making the mold takes time. I suggest you to mill the mold if you have the possibility because I welded the mold and this is time consuming. You can download the 3D model and make your own version.
## Steps
### Step 1: Tools
- Injection machine
- Angle grinder (cutting and grinding discs)
- Vise
- Flat file, round file (optional: small rotary tool like a Proxxon or Dremel)
- Drill press
- Clamps (at least 3)
- Welding machine (for pedals) and welding attire
- Radius scriber (or a marker)
- Safety glasses
- Respirator with A1 P1 filter
- Safety gloves
- Ear protection
- Sandpaper (grit around 80) (optional: electric sander)
- Measuring tape
- Square edge
- M6, M8 thread tap
- Drill bit sizes: 4.3 mm (3/16 in), 6.4 mm (1/4 in), 6.8 mm (17/64 in), 8.4 mm (21/64 in), 11 mm (7/16 in), 20 mm (25/32 in), 22.5 mm (7/8 in) (substitute with round file if 22.5 mm unavailable)
- Tweezers (optional, for ball bearings assembly)
- Injection machine
- angle grinder (cutting and grinding discs)
- vise
- flat file, round file (opional: small grinder rotary tool like Proxxon or Dremel)
- drill press
- clamps (at leaste 3)
- welding machine (only for pedals) & welding clothes
- radius scriber (a marker works well too)
- protection glasses
- respirator with A1 P1 filter (hot plastic fumes and particles filter)
- safety gloves
- ear protection
- sanding paper (grit size around 80) (optional: electric sander)
- measuring tape
- square edge
- M6, M8 thread tap
- drill bit 4.3; 6.4; 6.8; 8.4; 11; 20 ; 22.5 mm (if you don't have the 22.5, use your round file like I did)
- tweezers (optional, for ball bearings assembly)
![injector.jpg](./injector.jpg)
@ -49,27 +47,27 @@ This tutorial explains how I created the mold. While injecting the pedal is quic
### Step 2: Material for the grips
Plastic materials: Experiments were conducted with polystyrene (PS) and polyethylene (PE). PS appears stronger, but due to the availability of only black PS, PE was used for the presented objects. The pedal has a volume of 8.85 in³ (145 cm³), and the grip is 5.13 in³ (84 cm³).
Plastic waste: I made experiments with polystyrene (PS) and polyethylene (PE). PS looks more strong but I had only black one so the presented objects are made of PE. The pedal volume is 145 cm^3 and the grip 84 cm^3.
Components for Grips:
For the grips:
- Metal Tube: Internal diameter should match the desired grip size; larger diameters offer better comfort. Selected diameter: 1.38 in (35 mm). Length should match desired grip length minus 0.12 in (3 mm). Example: For two grips of 5.12 in (130 mm) each, actual length is 5 in (127 mm).
- Metal Sheet: Steel, 0.16 in (4 mm) thick; dimensions 7.09 x 2.36 in (180 x 60 mm).
- Threaded Rod: M6 x 17.72 in (450 mm); M8 x 5.91 in (150 mm).
- Nuts: 6 units, M6.
- Metal Cylinder: Diameter of 0.88 in (22.3 mm), length of 4.37 in (111 mm). Standard handlebars are 0.87 in (22 mm) in diameter, so choose slightly larger.
- Bolt: M8 x 0.79 in (20 mm).
- Washer: M20.
- Nut: M8.
- metal tube (internal diameter = diameter you want for the grips, big ones are more comfortable. I chose 35mm. Lenght = lenght you want for the two grips - 3 mm. I have 2 x 130 mm so my grips are 127 leght)
- metal sheet (steel 4 mm thick; 180 x 60 mm)
- threaded rod (M6 x 450; M8 x 150 mm)
- 6 nuts M6
- metal cylinder (diameter 22.3 length 111 mm) (standard handlebar have diameter 22 mm so take just a little bit more)
- 1 bolt M8 x 20
- 1 washer M20
- 1 nut M8
### Step 3: Material for the pedals
- Metal sheet (steel 0.16 in thick; 4.72 x 9.45 in; 1.02 x 27.56 in)
- Welding rod (0.08 or 0.12 in)
- 3 bolts M6 x 10 (any size is suitable with the corresponding drill bits)
- 2 pedal axles with ball bearings, washers, and nuts
- Wood (optional for positioning during welding) (pedal size)
- 4 bolts and nuts M4 x 40 (only length required)
- metal sheet (steel 4mm thick; 120 x 240; 26 x 700 mm)
- welding rod (2 or 3 mm)
- 3 bolts M6 x 10 (any size would works but you need the corresponding drill bits)
- 2 pedal axles with ball bearings, washers and nuts
- wood (for positioning during welding, optional) (pedal size)
- 4 bolts and nuts M4 x 40 (only length matter)
- 24 setscrews M6 x 8
@ -77,7 +75,16 @@ Components for Grips:
### Step 4: Grip mold: cut the parts
Cut the tube to the desired grip length (5.12 in). Cut four hexagons with 1.30 in sides. Drill three corner holes in each hexagon. In the first, drill a central hexagon with 0.39 in sides. In the second, drill a 0.20 in center hole. In the third, drill a 0.89 in center hole. In the fourth, drill a 0.31 in center hole. Cut three M5 and one M8 threaded rods to 5.91 in. Cut the cylinder to the required length (4.37 in). Make an M8 x 0.79 threaded hole at the center of one cylinder end.
Cut the tube at the length you want for your grips (mine are 130 mm).
Cut four hexagones with side length 33 mm.
In each of them, drill three holes in the corners.
In the first one, drill another hexagone with 10 mm side length in the center.
In the second one, drill a 5 mm hole in the center.
In the third one, drill a 22.5 mm hole in the center.
In the fourth one, drill a 8 mm hole in the center.
Cut three M5 and one M8 threaded rods at 150 mm.
Cut the cylinder at the length you want (111 mm for me).
Make a M8 x 20 threaded hole at the center of one cylinder side.
![plaques.jpg](./plaques.jpg)
@ -87,13 +94,15 @@ Cut the tube to the desired grip length (5.12 in). Cut four hexagons with 1.30 i
### Step 5: Pedal mold: cut the parts
Cut two squares measuring 120 x 120 mm (4.72 x 4.72 inches) from the metal sheet. Drill holes in the four corners with a diameter of 4.3 mm (0.17 inches). Outline the desired pedal shape on one square face. Drill the injection hole at your chosen location, with a recommended diameter of 5 mm (0.2 inches), ideally centered.
Cut a metal band of 26 mm (1.02 inches) height and a minimum of 300 mm (11.81 inches) length, and another band of 26 mm (1.02 inches) height by at least 340 mm (13.39 inches) length. From the 300 mm band, cut segments of 15.6 mm (0.61 inches) (2 pieces); 24 mm (0.94 inches) (2 pieces); 18 mm (0.71 inches) (2 pieces); 33 mm (1.30 inches) (2 pieces); and 25 mm (0.98 inches) (2 pieces). Cut one piece measuring 43.4 mm (1.71 inches).
From the 340 mm band, cut 40 mm (1.57 inches) (2 pieces); 56 mm (2.20 inches) (4 pieces); and 27.7 mm (1.09 inches) (1 piece).
Additionally, cut six small pieces measuring 5 x 10 mm (0.20 x 0.39 inches) to wedge the mold parts. For the triangle and trapezoid center, cut two pieces of 25 x 7 mm (0.98 x 0.28 inches) and one piece of 4 x 35 mm (0.16 x 1.38 inches).
Cut two squares 120 x 120 mm in the metal sheet.
Make holes in the four corners (4.3 mm in my case).
Scribe the pedal shape on one square face.
Drill the injection hole where you want it(I chose diameter 5, in the center).
Cut a band of 26 mm height and at least 300 length and another of 26 (precisely) x 340 (at least).
Cut the 300 band in 15.6 (2x); 24 (2x); 18 (2x); 33 (2x); 25 (2x); 43.4 (1x).
Cut the 340 band in 40 (2x); 56 (4x); 27.7 (1x).
Cut also six small pieces in order to wedge the mold part together (5 x 10 mm).
Cut three more to make the triangle and trapeze center (25 x 7 (2x); 4 x 35 (1x)).
![marquage2.jpg](./marquage2.jpg)
@ -106,11 +115,9 @@ Additionally, cut six small pieces measuring 5 x 10 mm (0.20 x 0.39 inches) to w
### Step 6: Make the Pedal Mold: Weld It
### Welding Instructions
Before welding you need to add an angle (around 2 degrees) on each vertical face of the wooden parts (triangle, trapezes and pedal). This will ease the extracting process. I accomplished this with the sanding machine.
Before welding, sand each vertical face of the wooden parts (triangle, trapezoids, and pedal) at an angle of approximately 2 degrees to facilitate extraction. I used a sanding machine for this task.
To weld the pedal perimeter, clamp the wooden pedal on your welding surface and secure the edges you plan to weld. Repeat this process with the other parts, ensuring they remain flat against the ground. My initial arc welding attempt yielded less than perfect results, but this only increases the grinding duration.
Weld the pedal perimeter: Clamp the wooden pedal on your welding surface and clamp the edges you want to weld (cf. picture). Continue with the other parts always ensuring that your parts are well against the ground. It was my first arc welding job and you can notice the poor result but it doesn't matter, it just extend the grinding time.
![serrejoint.jpg](./serrejoint.jpg)
@ -120,17 +127,17 @@ To weld the pedal perimeter, clamp the wooden pedal on your welding surface and
### Step 7: Inject the Grips
1. Turn on the heater.
2. Assemble the cylinder with the base hexagon (No. 4).
3. Insert the three threaded rods.
4. Place the washer around the cylinder.
5. Attach the tube.
6. Install the top hexagon with the injection hole (No. 2).
7. Add the top hexagon with a hexagonal hole (No. 1).
8. Secure with nuts.
9. Fill the machine with plastic.
10. Wait for 5 minutes.
11. Inject.
Turn the heater on.
Assemble the cylinder with the basis hexagon (Nbr. 4).
Add the three threaded rod.
Add the washer around the cylinder.
Add the tube.
Add the top hexagon with the injecting hole (Nbr. 2).
Add the top hexagon with the hexagonal hole (Nbr. 1).
Secure it with the nuts.
Start filling the machine with plastic.
Wait 5 min.
inject.
Remove the grip using the M8 threaded rod and nut.
@ -145,8 +152,8 @@ Remove the grip using the M8 threaded rod and nut.
### Step 8: Inject the Pedals
Heat the machine (temperature conversion: enter desired temperature in °C or °F).
Fill with old plastic (material volume conversion: kg to lb or vice versa).
Heat the machine.
Fill with old plastic.
Inject.
Open the mold.
@ -161,7 +168,14 @@ Open the mold.
### Step 9: Finish and Assembly
Ensure the pedal is firmly positioned in the jig. Attach an 11 mm (7/16 inch) drill bit, aligning it with the pedal center. Secure the jig to the drill and completely drill through the pedal. Switch to a 20 mm (3/4 inch) drill bit and drill 8 mm (5/16 inch) deep on the bike side of the pedal. Flip the pedal and drill 15 mm (5/8 inch) deep on the outer part, measuring from the flat face.
Secure the pedal in the jig.
Mount the 11 mm drill bit and align it with the pedal center.
Secure the jig to the drill.
Drill through all the pedal.
Mount the 20mm drill bit.
Drill the bike side of the pedal 8 mm depth.
Flip the pedal.
Drill the outer part of the pedal 15 mm depth (measured from the flat face, not the top triangle).
![pedalfinition.jpg](./pedalfinition.jpg)
@ -173,46 +187,4 @@ Ensure the pedal is firmly positioned in the jig. Attach an 11 mm (7/16 inch) dr
![pedalfinition4.jpg](./pedalfinition4.jpg)
## Resources
### Tools
- Injection machine
- Angle grinder (cutting and grinding discs)
- Drill press (with 4.3mm–22.5mm bits)
- Welding machine (with protective attire)
- M6/M8 thread taps
### Software
- 3D modeling software (for customizing mold design)
### Hardware
- Steel sheets (4mm thick)
- Metal tubes (35mm internal diameter)
- Threaded rods (M6/M8)
- Assorted nuts/bolts (M4/M6/M8)
- Plastic pellets (PS/PE)
## References
## References
### YouTube
- [Beginner To Advanced — How To Create a Mold— Part 1](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_hGMWhde1So) [1]
- [Mold Design for Beginners](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hRU_qNr8zLg) [8]
### Articles
- [DIY Injection Molding: How to Mold Plastic Parts In-House - Formlabs](https://formlabs.com/blog/diy-injection-molding/) [2]
- [A Step by Step Guide to Injection Molding - SyBridge Technologies](https://sybridge.com/injection-molding-guide/) [5]
### Books
- [Mold Making and Casting Guide Book - ComposiMold.com](https://composimoldstore.com/mold-making-and-casting-guide/) [3]
### Papers
- [Overview of Injection Molding Technology for Processing Polymers (PDF)](https://www.espublisher.com/uploads/article_pdf/esmm5f713.pdf) [4]
### Open-Source Designs
- [Open Source Skateboard Mold - Good Roads Collective](https://www.goodroadscollective.com/open-source-skateboard-mold) [6]
## References

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@ -1,29 +1,37 @@
---
title: Boards made from marine litter
slug: boards-made-from-marine-litter
description: Creation and manufacture of boards or panels using recycled polypropylene plastic and fishing nets recovered by Spanish fishermen.
description: Creation and manufacture of boards or panels using as raw material recycled polypropylene plastic and fishing nets recovered by fishermen from the coast of Spain.
This project is developed in collaboration with Vertidos Cero Association and AIMPLAS.
Learn more about creation and manufacture of products with this material here https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/products-made-from-marine-litter
This is a project developed jointly with Vertidos Cero Association and AIMPLAS.
tags: ["PS","untagged","product","sheetpress","PP","untagged"]
category: Products
difficulty: Medium
time: < 1 week
keywords: recycled polypropylene plastic, fishing nets recycling, eco-friendly boards, sustainable materials, AIMPLAS collaboration, Vertidos Cero project, Mares Circulares initiative, marine litter processing, Spanish fishermen collaboration, plastic sheet pressing
keywords:
location: Gandia, Spain
---
# Boards made from marine litter
![Boards made from marine litter](119f7b3b-8e23-43d7-90d7-3c41eb0e-18adb7534e6.jpg)
Creation and manufacture of boards or panels using recycled polypropylene plastic and fishing nets recovered by Spanish fishermen.
Creation and manufacture of boards or panels using as raw material recycled polypropylene plastic and fishing nets recovered by fishermen from the coast of Spain.
This project is developed in collaboration with Vertidos Cero Association and AIMPLAS.
Learn more about creation and manufacture of products with this material here https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/products-made-from-marine-litter
This is a project developed jointly with Vertidos Cero Association and AIMPLAS.
User Location: Gandia, Spain
## Steps
### Step 1: Mares Circulares
Mares Circulares, initiated in 2018, aims to clean the coasts, protected areas, and seabed of Spain and Portugal and promote material reuse.
Mares Circulares is a network project launched in 2018 with a triple objective: to clean up the coasts, protected areas and seabed of Spain and Portugal, promote recycling and boost the circular economy.
Approximately 5,200 kilograms (11,464 pounds) of debris, collected by volunteer fishermen, was processed. Non-PET plastic was sent to the Instituto Tecnológico de Plástico (AIMPLAS), where it was transformed into usable material.
We have used some 5,200 kilos of garbage caught by volunteer fishermen in their nets when the debris was floating in the water.
The non-PET plastic was then sent to the Instituto Tecnológico de Plástico (AIMPLAS), whose technology was able to transform it into usable material through various processes.
![imagen_2023-09-28_121517007-18adb49217c.png](./imagen_2023-09-28_121517007-18adb49217c.png)
@ -36,11 +44,11 @@ Approximately 5,200 kilograms (11,464 pounds) of debris, collected by volunteer
### Step 2: Preparation of material
The processed marine litter and fishing nets arrive in our workshop clean and crushed, ready for the heat press.
The processed marine litter and fishing nets arrive in our workshop clean and crushed, ready to be used in the heat press.
We mix them with the base material (polypropylene), carefully considering the desired proportions and quantities to achieve the specific texture, color, or thickness needed.
We mix it with the base material (polypropylene) taking care about the desired proportions and quantities. It depends of texture/color we look for or thickness we need.
Before placing the plastic in the sheet press, we use an industrial dryer to remove moisture.
Before take the plastic on the sheetpress we use a kind of industrial dryer to remove moisture.
![WhatsApp Image 2022-06-08 at 3.47.35 PM - copia-18ab238efad.jpeg](./WhatsApp_Image_2022-06-08_at_3.47.35_PM_-_copia-18ab238efad.jpeg)
@ -53,13 +61,13 @@ Before placing the plastic in the sheet press, we use an industrial dryer to rem
### Step 3: Manufacture of boards
Once the material is dry and mixed, it can be taken to the sheet press.
After having the material dry and mixed it's ready to take it to sheetpress.
We adapted a carpentry press to include heating and automation systems for board production.
Our sheetpress has been the result of our own work, we reused a carpentry press and modified to include the entire heating and automation system.
Our sheet press can produce boards measuring 220cm x 90cm (86.6 inches x 35.4 inches) with thicknesses ranging from 1cm to 3cm (0.4 inches to 1.2 inches).
For the elaboration of boards this sheetpress allows us to manufacture boards of 220cm x 90cm and from 1cm to 3cm of thickness.
The machine operates at an average temperature of 180°C (356°F) to melt the plastic.
This machine reaches an average temperature of 180° centigrade to melt the plastic.
![CocaColaAIMPLASTyPlasticPreciosGL33-18ab239b54e.jpg](./CocaColaAIMPLASTyPlasticPreciosGL33-18ab239b54e.jpg)
@ -72,11 +80,11 @@ The machine operates at an average temperature of 180°C (356°F) to melt the pl
### Step 4: Final details
As with any plastic processing, excess material on the edges must be trimmed.
As with any plastic processing process, the resulting parts have a surplus on the edges that has to be removed.
After removing the board from the sheet press, it is important to store it in a large space to prevent deformation or bending.
When we take the board out of the sheetpress we must try to have a large space to store them without deforming or bending.
These boards can be used to create a variety of products, including decorative items and furniture.
With this type of boards we have the possibility to manufacture countless products, decorative, furniture and much more.
![CocaColaAIMPLASTyPlasticPreciosGL22-18b1dee06c7.jpg](./CocaColaAIMPLASTyPlasticPreciosGL22-18b1dee06c7.jpg)
@ -88,57 +96,4 @@ These boards can be used to create a variety of products, including decorative i
![119f7b3b-8e23-43d7-90d7-3c41eb0e-18b1dee72c3.jpg](./119f7b3b-8e23-43d7-90d7-3c41eb0e-18b1dee72c3.jpg)
## Resources
### Tools
- Industrial dryer (moisture removal)
- Mixing equipment (material proportion control)
- Trimming tools (edge finishing)
- Storage racks (board stabilization)
### Hardware & Machinery
- Adapted carpentry press with heating/automation [AIMPLAS](https://www.aimplas.net/)
- Sheet press (220cm × 90cm capacity)
- Temperature control system (180°C operation)
### Software
- Automation software (press control)
### Materials
- Recycled polypropylene plastic ~~[Mares Circulares](https://www.marescirculares.com/)~~
- Processed fishing nets [Vertidos Cero](https://www.vertidoscero.com/)
### Partners
- Vertidos Cero Association [Website](https://www.vertidoscero.com/)
- AIMPLAS [Website](https://www.aimplas.net/)
## References
Here is the list of references grouped by type:
## Articles
- [Breakthrough Technology Takes Plastic From the Ocean...](https://investors.coca-colacompany.com/news-events/press-releases/detail/971/breakthrough-technology-takes-plastic-from-the-ocean-and)
- [Valenciaport sponsors furniture made from marine waste](https://www.valenciaport.com/en/valenciaport-sponsors-the-furniture-made-by-aimplas-with-marine-residues/)
- [NetPlus® Recycled Fishing Nets](https://www.patagonia.com/our-footprint/netplus-recycled-fishing-nets.html)
- [MAELSTROM Project: Marine Litter Treatment](https://cordis.europa.eu/article/id/445680-a-mantra-for-treatment-of-plastic-in-our-oceans)
## Papers
- ~~[Recycling of Waste Polyethylene Fishing Nets as Fibre Reinforcement in Gypsum-based Materials](https://orbit.dtu.dk/files/278424474/Bertelsen_et_al_2022.pdf)~~
- [Engineering Properties of Fibres from Waste Fishing Nets](http://www.circularocean.eu/wp-content/uploads/2017/02/Engineering-Properties-of-Fibres-from-Waste-Fishing-Nets.pdf)
## YouTube
- [Recycled Plastic Lumber Flow Molding](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jAlGgXAdq5A)
- [The Ultimate Guide to Make Perfect Plastic Sheets](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GEqPjhllYTY)
## Opensource Designs
- Products Made from Marine Litter
## Guides/Reports
- [Ecodesign Guide for Packaging (Ecoembes)](https://ecoembesempresas.com/app/uploads/2024/06/Ecodesign_guide_ENG.pdf)
- [AIMPLAS Marine Litter Recovery Guide](https://www.aimplas.net/technologies/recycling/recovery-marine-litter/)
## References

16
howtos/boards-made-from-marine-litter/config.json
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@ -19,7 +19,7 @@
"src": "C:\\Users\\zx\\Desktop\\osr\\osr-machines\\howtos\\boards-made-from-marine-litter\\119f7b3b-8e23-43d7-90d7-3c41eb0e-18adb7534e6.jpg"
},
"time": "< 1 week",
"description": "Creation and manufacture of boards or panels using recycled polypropylene plastic and fishing nets recovered by Spanish fishermen.\n\nThis project is developed in collaboration with Vertidos Cero Association and AIMPLAS.",
"description": "Creation and manufacture of boards or panels using as raw material recycled polypropylene plastic and fishing nets recovered by fishermen from the coast of Spain. \n\nLearn more about creation and manufacture of products with this material here https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/products-made-from-marine-litter\n\n\nThis is a project developed jointly with Vertidos Cero Association and AIMPLAS.",
"steps": [
{
"_animationKey": "uniqueqps7zc",
@ -62,7 +62,7 @@
"alt": "imagen_2023-09-28_121630081-18adb4a3ea8.png"
}
],
"text": "Mares Circulares, initiated in 2018, aims to clean the coasts, protected areas, and seabed of Spain and Portugal and promote material reuse.\n\nApproximately 5,200 kilograms (11,464 pounds) of debris, collected by volunteer fishermen, was processed. Non-PET plastic was sent to the Instituto Tecnológico de Plástico (AIMPLAS), where it was transformed into usable material."
"text": "Mares Circulares is a network project launched in 2018 with a triple objective: to clean up the coasts, protected areas and seabed of Spain and Portugal, promote recycling and boost the circular economy.\n\nWe have used some 5,200 kilos of garbage caught by volunteer fishermen in their nets when the debris was floating in the water.\n\nThe non-PET plastic was then sent to the Instituto Tecnológico de Plástico (AIMPLAS), whose technology was able to transform it into usable material through various processes."
},
{
"_animationKey": "unique1",
@ -105,7 +105,7 @@
"alt": "CocaColaAIMPLASTyPlasticPreciosGL31-18ab23928c8.jpg"
}
],
"text": "The processed marine litter and fishing nets arrive in our workshop clean and crushed, ready for the heat press.\n\nWe mix them with the base material (polypropylene), carefully considering the desired proportions and quantities to achieve the specific texture, color, or thickness needed.\n\nBefore placing the plastic in the sheet press, we use an industrial dryer to remove moisture."
"text": "The processed marine litter and fishing nets arrive in our workshop clean and crushed, ready to be used in the heat press. \n\nWe mix it with the base material (polypropylene) taking care about the desired proportions and quantities. It depends of texture/color we look for or thickness we need.\n\nBefore take the plastic on the sheetpress we use a kind of industrial dryer to remove moisture."
},
{
"images": [
@ -147,12 +147,12 @@
}
],
"_animationKey": "unique2",
"text": "Once the material is dry and mixed, it can be taken to the sheet press.\n\nWe adapted a carpentry press to include heating and automation systems for board production.\n\nOur sheet press can produce boards measuring 220cm x 90cm (86.6 inches x 35.4 inches) with thicknesses ranging from 1cm to 3cm (0.4 inches to 1.2 inches).\n\nThe machine operates at an average temperature of 180°C (356°F) to melt the plastic.",
"text": "After having the material dry and mixed it's ready to take it to sheetpress. \n\nOur sheetpress has been the result of our own work, we reused a carpentry press and modified to include the entire heating and automation system.\n\nFor the elaboration of boards this sheetpress allows us to manufacture boards of 220cm x 90cm and from 1cm to 3cm of thickness.\n\nThis machine reaches an average temperature of 180° centigrade to melt the plastic.",
"title": "Manufacture of boards"
},
{
"title": "Final details",
"text": "As with any plastic processing, excess material on the edges must be trimmed.\n\nAfter removing the board from the sheet press, it is important to store it in a large space to prevent deformation or bending.\n\nThese boards can be used to create a variety of products, including decorative items and furniture.",
"text": "As with any plastic processing process, the resulting parts have a surplus on the edges that has to be removed.\n\nWhen we take the board out of the sheetpress we must try to have a large space to store them without deforming or bending.\n\nWith this type of boards we have the possibility to manufacture countless products, decorative, furniture and much more.",
"_animationKey": "uniquekdi37f",
"images": [
{
@ -383,9 +383,5 @@
"images": []
}
},
"content": "Creation and manufacture of boards or panels using recycled polypropylene plastic and fishing nets recovered by Spanish fishermen.\n\nThis project is developed in collaboration with Vertidos Cero Association and AIMPLAS.\n\n\nUser Location: Gandia, Spain\n\nMares Circulares, initiated in 2018, aims to clean the coasts, protected areas, and seabed of Spain and Portugal and promote material reuse.\n\nApproximately 5,200 kilograms (11,464 pounds) of debris, collected by volunteer fishermen, was processed. Non-PET plastic was sent to the Instituto Tecnológico de Plástico (AIMPLAS), where it was transformed into usable material.\n\nThe processed marine litter and fishing nets arrive in our workshop clean and crushed, ready for the heat press.\n\nWe mix them with the base material (polypropylene), carefully considering the desired proportions and quantities to achieve the specific texture, color, or thickness needed.\n\nBefore placing the plastic in the sheet press, we use an industrial dryer to remove moisture.\n\nOnce the material is dry and mixed, it can be taken to the sheet press.\n\nWe adapted a carpentry press to include heating and automation systems for board production.\n\nOur sheet press can produce boards measuring 220cm x 90cm (86.6 inches x 35.4 inches) with thicknesses ranging from 1cm to 3cm (0.4 inches to 1.2 inches).\n\nThe machine operates at an average temperature of 180°C (356°F) to melt the plastic.\n\nAs with any plastic processing, excess material on the edges must be trimmed.\n\nAfter removing the board from the sheet press, it is important to store it in a large space to prevent deformation or bending.\n\nThese boards can be used to create a variety of products, including decorative items and furniture.",
"keywords": "recycled polypropylene plastic, fishing nets recycling, eco-friendly boards, sustainable materials, AIMPLAS collaboration, Vertidos Cero project, Mares Circulares initiative, marine litter processing, Spanish fishermen collaboration, plastic sheet pressing",
"resources": "### Tools\n\n- Industrial dryer (moisture removal)\n- Mixing equipment (material proportion control)\n- Trimming tools (edge finishing)\n- Storage racks (board stabilization)\n\n### Hardware & Machinery\n\n- Adapted carpentry press with heating/automation [AIMPLAS](https://www.aimplas.net/)\n- Sheet press (220cm × 90cm capacity)\n- Temperature control system (180°C operation)\n\n### Software\n\n- Automation software (press control)\n\n### Materials\n\n- Recycled polypropylene plastic ~~[Mares Circulares](https://www.marescirculares.com/)~~\n- Processed fishing nets [Vertidos Cero](https://www.vertidoscero.com/)\n\n### Partners\n\n- Vertidos Cero Association [Website](https://www.vertidoscero.com/)\n- AIMPLAS [Website](https://www.aimplas.net/)",
"references": "Here is the list of references grouped by type:\n\n## Articles\n\n- [Breakthrough Technology Takes Plastic From the Ocean...](https://investors.coca-colacompany.com/news-events/press-releases/detail/971/breakthrough-technology-takes-plastic-from-the-ocean-and)\n- [Valenciaport sponsors furniture made from marine waste](https://www.valenciaport.com/en/valenciaport-sponsors-the-furniture-made-by-aimplas-with-marine-residues/)\n- [NetPlus® Recycled Fishing Nets](https://www.patagonia.com/our-footprint/netplus-recycled-fishing-nets.html)\n- [MAELSTROM Project: Marine Litter Treatment](https://cordis.europa.eu/article/id/445680-a-mantra-for-treatment-of-plastic-in-our-oceans)\n\n## Papers\n\n- ~~[Recycling of Waste Polyethylene Fishing Nets as Fibre Reinforcement in Gypsum-based Materials](https://orbit.dtu.dk/files/278424474/Bertelsen_et_al_2022.pdf)~~\n- [Engineering Properties of Fibres from Waste Fishing Nets](http://www.circularocean.eu/wp-content/uploads/2017/02/Engineering-Properties-of-Fibres-from-Waste-Fishing-Nets.pdf)\n\n## YouTube\n\n- [Recycled Plastic Lumber Flow Molding](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jAlGgXAdq5A)\n- [The Ultimate Guide to Make Perfect Plastic Sheets](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GEqPjhllYTY)\n\n## Opensource Designs\n\n- Products Made from Marine Litter\n\n## Guides/Reports\n\n- [Ecodesign Guide for Packaging (Ecoembes)](https://ecoembesempresas.com/app/uploads/2024/06/Ecodesign_guide_ENG.pdf)\n- [AIMPLAS Marine Litter Recovery Guide](https://www.aimplas.net/technologies/recycling/recovery-marine-litter/)",
"brief": "Eco-friendly boards made from recycled polypropylene and fishing nets. Collaborating with AIMPLAS and Vertidos Cero, promoting coastal cleanliness and material reuse."
"content": "Creation and manufacture of boards or panels using as raw material recycled polypropylene plastic and fishing nets recovered by fishermen from the coast of Spain. \n\nLearn more about creation and manufacture of products with this material here https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/products-made-from-marine-litter\n\n\nThis is a project developed jointly with Vertidos Cero Association and AIMPLAS.\n\n\nUser Location: Gandia, Spain\n\nMares Circulares is a network project launched in 2018 with a triple objective: to clean up the coasts, protected areas and seabed of Spain and Portugal, promote recycling and boost the circular economy.\n\nWe have used some 5,200 kilos of garbage caught by volunteer fishermen in their nets when the debris was floating in the water.\n\nThe non-PET plastic was then sent to the Instituto Tecnológico de Plástico (AIMPLAS), whose technology was able to transform it into usable material through various processes.\n\nThe processed marine litter and fishing nets arrive in our workshop clean and crushed, ready to be used in the heat press. \n\nWe mix it with the base material (polypropylene) taking care about the desired proportions and quantities. It depends of texture/color we look for or thickness we need.\n\nBefore take the plastic on the sheetpress we use a kind of industrial dryer to remove moisture.\n\nAfter having the material dry and mixed it's ready to take it to sheetpress. \n\nOur sheetpress has been the result of our own work, we reused a carpentry press and modified to include the entire heating and automation system.\n\nFor the elaboration of boards this sheetpress allows us to manufacture boards of 220cm x 90cm and from 1cm to 3cm of thickness.\n\nThis machine reaches an average temperature of 180° centigrade to melt the plastic.\n\nAs with any plastic processing process, the resulting parts have a surplus on the edges that has to be removed.\n\nWhen we take the board out of the sheetpress we must try to have a large space to store them without deforming or bending.\n\nWith this type of boards we have the possibility to manufacture countless products, decorative, furniture and much more."
}

117
howtos/broom-hanger-mould/README.md
View File

@ -1,30 +1,33 @@
---
title: Broom hanger mould
slug: broom-hanger-mould
description: A wall-mounted clamp for brooms and mops can be made by following these steps to create its mold for an injection machine.
description: A clamp to hang brooms and mops in the wall. Here are the steps to make its mold for the injection machine.
tags: ["product","mould","injection"]
category: Moulds
difficulty: Hard
time: < 1 week
keywords: wall-mounted clamp, broom hanger mold, injection machine mold, steel pipe nipple, aluminum block mold, male and female mold, flexible plastics injection, HDPE and PP materials, mold assembly instructions, industrial mold making
keywords:
location: Bogota, Colombia
---
# Broom hanger mould
![Broom hanger mould](howto-broom-hanger-16-3-18391cca845.jpg)
A wall-mounted clamp for brooms and mops can be made by following these steps to create its mold for an injection machine.
A clamp to hang brooms and mops in the wall. Here are the steps to make its mold for the injection machine.
User Location: Bogota, Colombia
## Steps
### Step 1: Get your materials and prepare the work
Ensure all materials are prepared and carefully review the attached drawings and steps to fully understand the process, enhancing efficiency and accuracy.
Make sure you have all your materials ready and go through the attached drawings and steps to understand the full picture of the process. This will help you to work more efficiently and accurate.
![howto-broomhanger-mould-11.jpg](./howto-broomhanger-mould-11.jpg)
### Step 2: Make the connection piece
Begin by cutting the steel pipe nipple (no. 7) in half to create the mold nozzle. Drill a hole in the center of the metal sheet (no. 8) to securely fit one half of the pipe nipple. Weld parts no. 7 and no. 8 together, and then chamfer the welded edge on the lathe.
With all the parts in the bag, let’s start cutting the steel pipe nipple (no. 7) in half to make the mold nozzle.
Get the metal sheet (no. 8) and turn a hole in the center with a diameter to fit one half of the steel pipe nipple in tightly.
Weld the parts no. 7 and no. 8 together. Then chamfer the welded edge on the lathe.
(Drawings page 3-5)
@ -39,9 +42,9 @@ Begin by cutting the steel pipe nipple (no. 7) in half to create the mold nozzle
### Step 3: Make the female mold
Create the female mold by taking aluminum block no. 1 and drilling a hole that is 1 inch (2.54 cm) deep in the center of face A. Begin with smaller drill bits, gradually increasing to 1 inch (2.54 cm). Next, mill face B to create a channel 1 inch (2.54 cm) wide. Utilize a round point bit for a smoother finish.
Now we’ll make the female mold. Take the aluminium block (no. 1) and drill a 1” deep hole in the center of face A of the block. Start with smaller bits until you reach the inch. Then, mill face B to open a channel of 1” wide. Use a round point bit to get a better quality finish.
(Refer to drawings on page 6)
(Drawings page 6)
![howto-broom-hanger-4-1.jpg](./howto-broom-hanger-4-1.jpg)
@ -54,7 +57,7 @@ Create the female mold by taking aluminum block no. 1 and drilling a hole that i
### Step 4: Plastic entrance hole
Drill a 5 mm (0.2 in) hole through the center of the female mold.
For the plastic entrance, drill a 5mm hole through the center of your female mold.
(Drawings page 6)
@ -63,9 +66,9 @@ Drill a 5 mm (0.2 in) hole through the center of the female mold.
### Step 5: Male mold part 1
The male mold consists of three parts. Prepare aluminum parts 2, 3, and 5. Begin with the aluminum rod (part 5). Mill one side of the rod to a height of 3.17 mm (1/8 inch) and a width of 14.19 mm (9/16 inch).
The male mold is made of three parts. Get your aluminium parts no. 2, 3 and 5 ready and start with the aluminium rod (no. 5). Mill one side of the rod to a height of 3,17mm and a width of 14,19mm.
(Refer to drawings on page 7)
(Drawings page 7)
![howto-broom-hanger-7-1.jpg](./howto-broom-hanger-7-1.jpg)
@ -78,7 +81,9 @@ The male mold consists of three parts. Prepare aluminum parts 2, 3, and 5. Begin
### Step 6: Male mold part 2
Take part no. 3 and mill one face at a 15° angle. Then mill the opposite face to a 15° angle until the narrow face measures 14.19 mm (0.56 inches) and the wider face measures 21 mm (0.83 inches), matching the face of part 5. Refer to drawings on page 7.
Now, get part no. 3 and mill one face on an angle of 15°. Then, mill the other face to an opposite angle of 15°, until the width of the narrow face matches the face of part 5 (see last image). That should be 14,19mm in the narrower face and 21mm in the wider face.
(Drawings page 7)
![howto-broom-hanger-8-1.jpg](./howto-broom-hanger-8-1.jpg)
@ -91,7 +96,9 @@ Take part no. 3 and mill one face at a 15° angle. Then mill the opposite face t
### Step 7: Male mold assembly
To assemble the male mold, align the centers of the previous parts with part no. 2. Secure with clamps and drill two holes, 3/16 inch (4.76 mm) deep. On part no. 5, drill flat countersinks for screw no. 9 heads. Use button head screws, washers, and nuts (no. 9-11) to fasten the three parts.
To assemble the male mold, align the center of the previous parts with the center of part no. 2, press with clamps and drill two 3/16” deep holes.
On part no. 5, drill flat countersinks for the screws (no. 9) head.
Fix the three parts with the button head screws, washers and nuts (no. 9-11).
(Drawings pages 8-9)
@ -106,20 +113,18 @@ To assemble the male mold, align the centers of the previous parts with part no.
### Step 8: Drill the conical guides holes
Align the female and male parts of the mold and secure them with a small press or locking pliers. Mark the hole positions from the drawings onto the face of part 2 and drill two holes with a 9.5mm (3/8 inch) diameter. Drill through part 2 and 1cm (0.39 inch) deep into part 1.
Align in place the female and the male parts of the mold and fix them with a small press or locking pliers. Apply the the hole positions from the drawings to the face of part no. 2 and drill two 9,5mm diameter holes. Drill through no. 2 and 1cm deep into no.1.
(Refer to drawings on page 10)
(Drawings page 10)
![howto-broom-hanger-10.jpg](./howto-broom-hanger-10.jpg)
### Step 9: Conical guides
### Tutorial Instructions
Turn your round metal bar (no. 6) to create the conical guides and saw a channel on one side to let the air flow out when inserting. With a vice or a hammer, insert the conical guides into part no.1.
Turn the round metal bar (no. 6) to create the conical guides. Saw a channel on one side to allow air flow during insertion. Using a vice or hammer, insert the conical guides into part no. 1.
(Refer to drawings on page 11)
(Drawings page 11)
![howto-broom-hanger-11-2.jpg](./howto-broom-hanger-11-2.jpg)
@ -132,7 +137,8 @@ Turn the round metal bar (no. 6) to create the conical guides. Saw a channel on
### Step 10: Connect the mould
Fix the nozzle by securing the female and male parts with a small press or locking pliers, then drill four 9/32" (7 mm) holes at the corners of both parts. Close the mold and adjust the ends for an even surface between the male and female parts.
Fix the nozzle, the female and the male parts with a small press or locking pliers, and drill four 9/32” holes through the corners of both parts.
Close the mold and turn the ends to get an even surface between the male and the female parts.
(Drawings page 12)
@ -144,9 +150,10 @@ Fix the nozzle by securing the female and male parts with a small press or locki
### Step 11: Make end caps
Secure each cap (no. 4) and drill four holes with a 5mm (3/16 inch) diameter through the cap, penetrating 25mm (1 inch) into both female and male mold parts. Tap each hole in the female and male sections with a ¼ inch thread. Enlarge the holes in the caps to ¼ inch and secure them with bolts (no. 12).
Fix each cap (no. 4) in place and drill four 5mm diameter holes. All through the cap and 25mm deep into the female and male mold parts. Tap each hole of the female and male parts with a ¼” thread.
On the caps, re-drill the holes up to ¼” and fix them with the bolts (no. 12).
(Refer to drawings on page 13)
(Drawings page 13)
![howto-broom-hanger-14-1.jpg](./howto-broom-hanger-14-1.jpg)
@ -159,18 +166,22 @@ Secure each cap (no. 4) and drill four holes with a 5mm (3/16 inch) diameter thr
### Step 12: Cut the sides for the closing screws
Final Step: Use a hand saw to cut two slots per side for easier bolt insertion and removal. Secure the mold with four bolts and butterfly nuts (size 13-14).
Final step! With the hand saw, cut slots (two per side) for the bolts to fit in and out more easily. For closing the mold, four bolts and butterfly nuts (no. 13-14) will be used.
Refer to Drawings on page 14.
(Drawings page 14)
![howto-broom-hanger-15.jpg](./howto-broom-hanger-15.jpg)
### Step 13: Mould done!
The broom hanger mold is complete and ready for injection. Flexible plastics such as HDPE and PP are recommended as they are less prone to cracking.
And you’re done! Here is your broom hanger mold, it's time to inject.
Flexible plastics like HDPE and PP work better for the broom hangers as they won't crack during use.
To open the mold, us a flat screwdriver to pull apart the parts gently. To take out the plastic product, use the flat screwdriver or a putty knife to open and release it from the male mold. It's easier if you do this process when the plastic part is still hot, but remember to close it back to its original shape after releasing.
To open the mold, use a flat screwdriver to gently separate the parts. To remove the plastic product, use a flat screwdriver or putty knife to detach it from the male mold. It is advisable to perform this while the plastic is still warm, but ensure the mold is returned to its original shape afterward.
![howto-broom-hanger-16-1.jpg](./howto-broom-hanger-16-1.jpg)
@ -183,7 +194,8 @@ To open the mold, use a flat screwdriver to gently separate the parts. To remove
### Step 14: Happy hanging :)
To install the broom hanger, drill a hole in the wall, insert a wall plug, and secure it with a screw.
To install the broom hanger on the wall, drill a hole and fix it with a wall plug and a screw.
![howto-broom-hanger-17-1.jpg](./howto-broom-hanger-17-1.jpg)
@ -195,55 +207,4 @@ To install the broom hanger, drill a hole in the wall, insert a wall plug, and s
![howto-broom-hanger-cover-18391cccc68.jpg](./howto-broom-hanger-cover-18391cccc68.jpg)
## Resources
### Tools
- Drilling machine with various bits (5mm, 9.5mm, ¼") [Page 6, 10, 13]
- Lathe for chamfering welded edges [Page 3]
- Milling machine with round point bit [Page 6]
- Welding equipment for joining steel parts [Page 3]
- Tap set (¼" thread) [Page 13]
### Hardware
- Steel pipe nipple (no. 7) and metal sheet (no. 8) [Page 3]
- Aluminum blocks (no. 1, 2, 3) and rod (no. 5) [Page 6, 7]
- Screws, washers, nuts (no. 9-11) and bolts (no. 12-14) [Page 9, 13]
- Conical guides (no. 6) from round metal bar [Page 11]
- Caps (no. 4) for mold assembly [Page 13]
### Software
- None specified (technical drawings on pages 3–14 guide fabrication).
### Materials
- HDPE or PP plastic pellets for injection molding [Final Step].
- Wall plugs and screws for installation [Final Step].
Technical drawings (pages 3–14) are critical for dimensional accuracy. Prioritize precision tools and alignment during assembly.
## References
## Articles
- https://www.ace-mold.com/mold-clamps-injection-molding-a-comprehensive-guide/
- https://www.boyiprototyping.com/injection-molding-guide/essential-guide-to-injection-molding-clamps-for-quality-mold/
- https://www.nelsonnwalaska.com/injection-mold-frame-with-integral-clamping-ejector/
- https://alleycho.com/clamping-system-introduction-in-injection-molding-machine/
- https://formlabs.com/blog/diy-injection-molding/
- https://www.amandaseghetti.com/diy-mop-broom-holder/
## Books
- https://bearpondbooks.com/book/9781569905708
- https://qecubete.files.wordpress.com/2014/07/injection-molding-handbook.pdf
- https://www.goodreads.com/book/show/4182553
- https://www.prairielights.com/book/9781569908914
- https://www.barnesandnoble.com/w/injection-mold-design-engineering-david-o-kazmer/1123852648
## Opensource Designs
- https://www.printables.com/model/152557-gravity-broom-holder
- https://formlabs.com/blog/diy-injection-molding/
## Youtube
- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QvLIaoaFQbc
## References

36
howtos/broom-hanger-mould/config.json
View File

@ -8,7 +8,7 @@
"time": "< 1 week",
"difficulty_level": "Hard",
"id": "O5B7jPrcM7yIrIG4tvbO",
"description": "A wall-mounted clamp for brooms and mops can be made by following these steps to create its mold for an injection machine.",
"description": "A clamp to hang brooms and mops in the wall. Here are the steps to make its mold for the injection machine.",
"title": "Broom hanger mould",
"_deleted": false,
"_contentModifiedTimestamp": "2023-01-18T16:50:52.103Z",
@ -55,7 +55,7 @@
"alt": "howto-broomhanger-mould-11.jpg"
}
],
"text": "Ensure all materials are prepared and carefully review the attached drawings and steps to fully understand the process, enhancing efficiency and accuracy."
"text": "Make sure you have all your materials ready and go through the attached drawings and steps to understand the full picture of the process. This will help you to work more efficiently and accurate.\n"
},
{
"title": "Make the connection piece",
@ -99,11 +99,11 @@
],
"caption": "",
"_animationKey": "unique2",
"text": "Begin by cutting the steel pipe nipple (no. 7) in half to create the mold nozzle. Drill a hole in the center of the metal sheet (no. 8) to securely fit one half of the pipe nipple. Weld parts no. 7 and no. 8 together, and then chamfer the welded edge on the lathe.\n\n(Drawings page 3-5)"
"text": "With all the parts in the bag, let’s start cutting the steel pipe nipple (no. 7) in half to make the mold nozzle.\nGet the metal sheet (no. 8) and turn a hole in the center with a diameter to fit one half of the steel pipe nipple in tightly.\nWeld the parts no. 7 and no. 8 together. Then chamfer the welded edge on the lathe.\n\n(Drawings page 3-5)"
},
{
"_animationKey": "unique3",
"text": "Create the female mold by taking aluminum block no. 1 and drilling a hole that is 1 inch (2.54 cm) deep in the center of face A. Begin with smaller drill bits, gradually increasing to 1 inch (2.54 cm). Next, mill face B to create a channel 1 inch (2.54 cm) wide. Utilize a round point bit for a smoother finish.\n\n(Refer to drawings on page 6)",
"text": "Now we’ll make the female mold. Take the aluminium block (no. 1) and drill a 1” deep hole in the center of face A of the block. Start with smaller bits until you reach the inch. Then, mill face B to open a channel of 1” wide. Use a round point bit to get a better quality finish. \n\n(Drawings page 6)",
"images": [
{
"name": "howto-broom-hanger-4-1.jpg",
@ -162,11 +162,11 @@
}
],
"title": "Plastic entrance hole",
"text": "Drill a 5 mm (0.2 in) hole through the center of the female mold.\n\n(Drawings page 6)"
"text": "For the plastic entrance, drill a 5mm hole through the center of your female mold.\n\n(Drawings page 6)"
},
{
"title": "Male mold part 1",
"text": "The male mold consists of three parts. Prepare aluminum parts 2, 3, and 5. Begin with the aluminum rod (part 5). Mill one side of the rod to a height of 3.17 mm (1/8 inch) and a width of 14.19 mm (9/16 inch). \n\n(Refer to drawings on page 7)",
"text": "The male mold is made of three parts. Get your aluminium parts no. 2, 3 and 5 ready and start with the aluminium rod (no. 5). Mill one side of the rod to a height of 3,17mm and a width of 14,19mm. \n\n(Drawings page 7)",
"images": [
{
"size": 34278,
@ -248,11 +248,11 @@
],
"_animationKey": "uniquevf9sf55",
"title": "Male mold part 2",
"text": "Take part no. 3 and mill one face at a 15° angle. Then mill the opposite face to a 15° angle until the narrow face measures 14.19 mm (0.56 inches) and the wider face measures 21 mm (0.83 inches), matching the face of part 5. Refer to drawings on page 7."
"text": "Now, get part no. 3 and mill one face on an angle of 15°. Then, mill the other face to an opposite angle of 15°, until the width of the narrow face matches the face of part 5 (see last image). That should be 14,19mm in the narrower face and 21mm in the wider face. \n\n(Drawings page 7)"
},
{
"_animationKey": "uniquedef22",
"text": "To assemble the male mold, align the centers of the previous parts with part no. 2. Secure with clamps and drill two holes, 3/16 inch (4.76 mm) deep. On part no. 5, drill flat countersinks for screw no. 9 heads. Use button head screws, washers, and nuts (no. 9-11) to fasten the three parts.\n\n(Drawings pages 8-9)",
"text": "To assemble the male mold, align the center of the previous parts with the center of part no. 2, press with clamps and drill two 3/16” deep holes. \nOn part no. 5, drill flat countersinks for the screws (no. 9) head.\nFix the three parts with the button head screws, washers and nuts (no. 9-11). \n\n(Drawings pages 8-9)",
"title": "Male mold assembly",
"images": [
{
@ -308,13 +308,13 @@
"alt": "howto-broom-hanger-10.jpg"
}
],
"text": "Align the female and male parts of the mold and secure them with a small press or locking pliers. Mark the hole positions from the drawings onto the face of part 2 and drill two holes with a 9.5mm (3/8 inch) diameter. Drill through part 2 and 1cm (0.39 inch) deep into part 1.\n\n(Refer to drawings on page 10)",
"text": "Align in place the female and the male parts of the mold and fix them with a small press or locking pliers. Apply the the hole positions from the drawings to the face of part no. 2 and drill two 9,5mm diameter holes. Drill through no. 2 and 1cm deep into no.1.\n\n(Drawings page 10)",
"title": "Drill the conical guides holes",
"_animationKey": "uniqueha6d3j"
},
{
"title": "Conical guides",
"text": "### Tutorial Instructions\n\nTurn the round metal bar (no. 6) to create the conical guides. Saw a channel on one side to allow air flow during insertion. Using a vice or hammer, insert the conical guides into part no. 1. \n\n(Refer to drawings on page 11)",
"text": "Turn your round metal bar (no. 6) to create the conical guides and saw a channel on one side to let the air flow out when inserting. With a vice or a hammer, insert the conical guides into part no.1. \n\n(Drawings page 11)",
"_animationKey": "uniques273m",
"images": [
{
@ -357,7 +357,7 @@
},
{
"_animationKey": "uniquekl4la8",
"text": "Fix the nozzle by securing the female and male parts with a small press or locking pliers, then drill four 9/32\" (7 mm) holes at the corners of both parts. Close the mold and adjust the ends for an even surface between the male and female parts.\n\n(Drawings page 12)",
"text": "Fix the nozzle, the female and the male parts with a small press or locking pliers, and drill four 9/32” holes through the corners of both parts.\nClose the mold and turn the ends to get an even surface between the male and the female parts. \n\n(Drawings page 12)",
"title": "Connect the mould",
"images": [
{
@ -388,7 +388,7 @@
},
{
"_animationKey": "uniquel2pxx",
"text": "Secure each cap (no. 4) and drill four holes with a 5mm (3/16 inch) diameter through the cap, penetrating 25mm (1 inch) into both female and male mold parts. Tap each hole in the female and male sections with a ¼ inch thread. Enlarge the holes in the caps to ¼ inch and secure them with bolts (no. 12).\n\n(Refer to drawings on page 13)",
"text": "Fix each cap (no. 4) in place and drill four 5mm diameter holes. All through the cap and 25mm deep into the female and male mold parts. Tap each hole of the female and male parts with a ¼” thread.\nOn the caps, re-drill the holes up to ¼” and fix them with the bolts (no. 12).\n\n(Drawings page 13)",
"title": "Make end caps",
"images": [
{
@ -446,7 +446,7 @@
}
],
"title": "Cut the sides for the closing screws",
"text": "Final Step: Use a hand saw to cut two slots per side for easier bolt insertion and removal. Secure the mold with four bolts and butterfly nuts (size 13-14).\n\nRefer to Drawings on page 14."
"text": "Final step! With the hand saw, cut slots (two per side) for the bolts to fit in and out more easily. For closing the mold, four bolts and butterfly nuts (no. 13-14) will be used.\n\n(Drawings page 14)"
},
{
"_animationKey": "unique5sys2s",
@ -489,10 +489,10 @@
"alt": "howto-broom-hanger-16-3.jpg"
}
],
"text": "The broom hanger mold is complete and ready for injection. Flexible plastics such as HDPE and PP are recommended as they are less prone to cracking.\n\nTo open the mold, use a flat screwdriver to gently separate the parts. To remove the plastic product, use a flat screwdriver or putty knife to detach it from the male mold. It is advisable to perform this while the plastic is still warm, but ensure the mold is returned to its original shape afterward."
"text": "And you’re done! Here is your broom hanger mold, it's time to inject.\nFlexible plastics like HDPE and PP work better for the broom hangers as they won't crack during use. \n\nTo open the mold, us a flat screwdriver to pull apart the parts gently. To take out the plastic product, use the flat screwdriver or a putty knife to open and release it from the male mold. It's easier if you do this process when the plastic part is still hot, but remember to close it back to its original shape after releasing.\n\n\n"
},
{
"text": "To install the broom hanger, drill a hole in the wall, insert a wall plug, and secure it with a screw.",
"text": "To install the broom hanger on the wall, drill a hole and fix it with a wall plug and a screw.\n",
"_animationKey": "uniquejwu0ig",
"title": "Happy hanging :)",
"images": [
@ -698,9 +698,5 @@
"urls": []
}
},
"content": "A wall-mounted clamp for brooms and mops can be made by following these steps to create its mold for an injection machine.\n\n\nUser Location: Bogota, Colombia\n\nEnsure all materials are prepared and carefully review the attached drawings and steps to fully understand the process, enhancing efficiency and accuracy.\n\nBegin by cutting the steel pipe nipple (no. 7) in half to create the mold nozzle. Drill a hole in the center of the metal sheet (no. 8) to securely fit one half of the pipe nipple. Weld parts no. 7 and no. 8 together, and then chamfer the welded edge on the lathe.\n\n(Drawings page 3-5)\n\nCreate the female mold by taking aluminum block no. 1 and drilling a hole that is 1 inch (2.54 cm) deep in the center of face A. Begin with smaller drill bits, gradually increasing to 1 inch (2.54 cm). Next, mill face B to create a channel 1 inch (2.54 cm) wide. Utilize a round point bit for a smoother finish.\n\n(Refer to drawings on page 6)\n\nDrill a 5 mm (0.2 in) hole through the center of the female mold.\n\n(Drawings page 6)\n\nThe male mold consists of three parts. Prepare aluminum parts 2, 3, and 5. Begin with the aluminum rod (part 5). Mill one side of the rod to a height of 3.17 mm (1/8 inch) and a width of 14.19 mm (9/16 inch). \n\n(Refer to drawings on page 7)\n\nTake part no. 3 and mill one face at a 15° angle. Then mill the opposite face to a 15° angle until the narrow face measures 14.19 mm (0.56 inches) and the wider face measures 21 mm (0.83 inches), matching the face of part 5. Refer to drawings on page 7.\n\nTo assemble the male mold, align the centers of the previous parts with part no. 2. Secure with clamps and drill two holes, 3/16 inch (4.76 mm) deep. On part no. 5, drill flat countersinks for screw no. 9 heads. Use button head screws, washers, and nuts (no. 9-11) to fasten the three parts.\n\n(Drawings pages 8-9)\n\nAlign the female and male parts of the mold and secure them with a small press or locking pliers. Mark the hole positions from the drawings onto the face of part 2 and drill two holes with a 9.5mm (3/8 inch) diameter. Drill through part 2 and 1cm (0.39 inch) deep into part 1.\n\n(Refer to drawings on page 10)\n\n### Tutorial Instructions\n\nTurn the round metal bar (no. 6) to create the conical guides. Saw a channel on one side to allow air flow during insertion. Using a vice or hammer, insert the conical guides into part no. 1. \n\n(Refer to drawings on page 11)\n\nFix the nozzle by securing the female and male parts with a small press or locking pliers, then drill four 9/32\" (7 mm) holes at the corners of both parts. Close the mold and adjust the ends for an even surface between the male and female parts.\n\n(Drawings page 12)\n\nSecure each cap (no. 4) and drill four holes with a 5mm (3/16 inch) diameter through the cap, penetrating 25mm (1 inch) into both female and male mold parts. Tap each hole in the female and male sections with a ¼ inch thread. Enlarge the holes in the caps to ¼ inch and secure them with bolts (no. 12).\n\n(Refer to drawings on page 13)\n\nFinal Step: Use a hand saw to cut two slots per side for easier bolt insertion and removal. Secure the mold with four bolts and butterfly nuts (size 13-14).\n\nRefer to Drawings on page 14.\n\nThe broom hanger mold is complete and ready for injection. Flexible plastics such as HDPE and PP are recommended as they are less prone to cracking.\n\nTo open the mold, use a flat screwdriver to gently separate the parts. To remove the plastic product, use a flat screwdriver or putty knife to detach it from the male mold. It is advisable to perform this while the plastic is still warm, but ensure the mold is returned to its original shape afterward.\n\nTo install the broom hanger, drill a hole in the wall, insert a wall plug, and secure it with a screw.",
"keywords": "wall-mounted clamp, broom hanger mold, injection machine mold, steel pipe nipple, aluminum block mold, male and female mold, flexible plastics injection, HDPE and PP materials, mold assembly instructions, industrial mold making",
"resources": "### Tools\n\n- Drilling machine with various bits (5mm, 9.5mm, ¼\") [Page 6, 10, 13]\n- Lathe for chamfering welded edges [Page 3]\n- Milling machine with round point bit [Page 6]\n- Welding equipment for joining steel parts [Page 3]\n- Tap set (¼\" thread) [Page 13]\n\n### Hardware\n\n- Steel pipe nipple (no. 7) and metal sheet (no. 8) [Page 3]\n- Aluminum blocks (no. 1, 2, 3) and rod (no. 5) [Page 6, 7]\n- Screws, washers, nuts (no. 9-11) and bolts (no. 12-14) [Page 9, 13]\n- Conical guides (no. 6) from round metal bar [Page 11]\n- Caps (no. 4) for mold assembly [Page 13]\n\n### Software\n\n- None specified (technical drawings on pages 3–14 guide fabrication).\n\n### Materials\n\n- HDPE or PP plastic pellets for injection molding [Final Step].\n- Wall plugs and screws for installation [Final Step].\n\nTechnical drawings (pages 3–14) are critical for dimensional accuracy. Prioritize precision tools and alignment during assembly.",
"references": "## Articles\n\n- https://www.ace-mold.com/mold-clamps-injection-molding-a-comprehensive-guide/\n- https://www.boyiprototyping.com/injection-molding-guide/essential-guide-to-injection-molding-clamps-for-quality-mold/\n- https://www.nelsonnwalaska.com/injection-mold-frame-with-integral-clamping-ejector/\n- https://alleycho.com/clamping-system-introduction-in-injection-molding-machine/\n- https://formlabs.com/blog/diy-injection-molding/\n- https://www.amandaseghetti.com/diy-mop-broom-holder/\n\n## Books\n\n- https://bearpondbooks.com/book/9781569905708\n- https://qecubete.files.wordpress.com/2014/07/injection-molding-handbook.pdf\n- https://www.goodreads.com/book/show/4182553\n- https://www.prairielights.com/book/9781569908914\n- https://www.barnesandnoble.com/w/injection-mold-design-engineering-david-o-kazmer/1123852648\n\n## Opensource Designs\n\n- https://www.printables.com/model/152557-gravity-broom-holder\n- https://formlabs.com/blog/diy-injection-molding/\n\n## Youtube\n\n- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QvLIaoaFQbc",
"brief": "Craft a wall-mounted broom and mop clamp mold with detailed steps for efficiency. Use flexible plastics like HDPE and PP for durability."
"content": "A clamp to hang brooms and mops in the wall. Here are the steps to make its mold for the injection machine.\n\n\nUser Location: Bogota, Colombia\n\nMake sure you have all your materials ready and go through the attached drawings and steps to understand the full picture of the process. This will help you to work more efficiently and accurate.\n\n\nWith all the parts in the bag, let’s start cutting the steel pipe nipple (no. 7) in half to make the mold nozzle.\nGet the metal sheet (no. 8) and turn a hole in the center with a diameter to fit one half of the steel pipe nipple in tightly.\nWeld the parts no. 7 and no. 8 together. Then chamfer the welded edge on the lathe.\n\n(Drawings page 3-5)\n\nNow we’ll make the female mold. Take the aluminium block (no. 1) and drill a 1” deep hole in the center of face A of the block. Start with smaller bits until you reach the inch. Then, mill face B to open a channel of 1” wide. Use a round point bit to get a better quality finish. \n\n(Drawings page 6)\n\nFor the plastic entrance, drill a 5mm hole through the center of your female mold.\n\n(Drawings page 6)\n\nThe male mold is made of three parts. Get your aluminium parts no. 2, 3 and 5 ready and start with the aluminium rod (no. 5). Mill one side of the rod to a height of 3,17mm and a width of 14,19mm. \n\n(Drawings page 7)\n\nNow, get part no. 3 and mill one face on an angle of 15°. Then, mill the other face to an opposite angle of 15°, until the width of the narrow face matches the face of part 5 (see last image). That should be 14,19mm in the narrower face and 21mm in the wider face. \n\n(Drawings page 7)\n\nTo assemble the male mold, align the center of the previous parts with the center of part no. 2, press with clamps and drill two 3/16” deep holes. \nOn part no. 5, drill flat countersinks for the screws (no. 9) head.\nFix the three parts with the button head screws, washers and nuts (no. 9-11). \n\n(Drawings pages 8-9)\n\nAlign in place the female and the male parts of the mold and fix them with a small press or locking pliers. Apply the the hole positions from the drawings to the face of part no. 2 and drill two 9,5mm diameter holes. Drill through no. 2 and 1cm deep into no.1.\n\n(Drawings page 10)\n\nTurn your round metal bar (no. 6) to create the conical guides and saw a channel on one side to let the air flow out when inserting. With a vice or a hammer, insert the conical guides into part no.1. \n\n(Drawings page 11)\n\nFix the nozzle, the female and the male parts with a small press or locking pliers, and drill four 9/32” holes through the corners of both parts.\nClose the mold and turn the ends to get an even surface between the male and the female parts. \n\n(Drawings page 12)\n\nFix each cap (no. 4) in place and drill four 5mm diameter holes. All through the cap and 25mm deep into the female and male mold parts. Tap each hole of the female and male parts with a ¼” thread.\nOn the caps, re-drill the holes up to ¼” and fix them with the bolts (no. 12).\n\n(Drawings page 13)\n\nFinal step! With the hand saw, cut slots (two per side) for the bolts to fit in and out more easily. For closing the mold, four bolts and butterfly nuts (no. 13-14) will be used.\n\n(Drawings page 14)\n\nAnd you’re done! Here is your broom hanger mold, it's time to inject.\nFlexible plastics like HDPE and PP work better for the broom hangers as they won't crack during use. \n\nTo open the mold, us a flat screwdriver to pull apart the parts gently. To take out the plastic product, use the flat screwdriver or a putty knife to open and release it from the male mold. It's easier if you do this process when the plastic part is still hot, but remember to close it back to its original shape after releasing.\n\n\n\n\nTo install the broom hanger on the wall, drill a hole and fix it with a wall plug and a screw.\n"
}

52
howtos/build-a-bicycle-powered-shredder/README.md
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@ -1,45 +1,43 @@
---
title: Build a bicycle powered shredder!
slug: build-a-bicycle-powered-shredder
description: ### Tutorial: Constructing a Bicycle-Powered Plastic Shredder
description: In this How-to, you will learn how we constructed our bicycle powered plastic shredder, and how you can built your own! Not only does it give you a relatively cheap way to shred plastic at zero operating costs, but it also gives you freedom from the electrical grid, all while keeping you fit and healthy!
This guide outlines the construction of a bicycle-powered plastic shredder and provides instructions for building your own. The device offers a cost-effective method of shredding plastic without relying on electricity.
**Step 1**: Find detailed construction plans and necessary files.
In step 1 you will find a detailed construction plan and all the files necessary.
tags: ["collection","shredder","HDPE"]
category: uncategorized
difficulty: Hard
time: 3-4 weeks
keywords: bicycle-powered plastic shredder, DIY plastic shredder, build plastic shredder, construct bicycle shredder, cost-effective plastic shredding, manual plastic shredding, plastic shredder instructions, shredder construction plans, plastic recycling tools, non-electric shredder
keywords:
location:
---
# Build a bicycle powered shredder!
![Build a bicycle powered shredder!](COVER_PHOTO.png)
### Tutorial: Constructing a Bicycle-Powered Plastic Shredder
In this How-to, you will learn how we constructed our bicycle powered plastic shredder, and how you can built your own! Not only does it give you a relatively cheap way to shred plastic at zero operating costs, but it also gives you freedom from the electrical grid, all while keeping you fit and healthy!
This guide outlines the construction of a bicycle-powered plastic shredder and provides instructions for building your own. The device offers a cost-effective method of shredding plastic without relying on electricity.
**Step 1**: Find detailed construction plans and necessary files.
In step 1 you will find a detailed construction plan and all the files necessary.
## Steps
### Step 1: Open the construction manual
Via this link: [drive.google.com](https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1m8Bq35N_N-nw5llw7T16WAWR9GLb5i_L?usp=sharing), you can access a detailed construction plan, bill of materials, technical drawings, and laser cutting files required to build a bicycle-powered shredder.
Via this link: <a class="text-orange-600 underline" href="https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1m8Bq35N_N-nw5llw7T16WAWR9GLb5i_L?usp=sharing" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">drive.google.com: drive.google.com/drive/folders/1m8Bq35N_N-nw5llw7T16WAWR9GLb5i_L?usp=sharing</a> , you can find a very detailed construction plan and bill of materials, along with technical drawings, laser cutting files and more. This should be more than enough for you to build your own bicycle powered shredder :)
We could not use the supporting files tab, since our files exceeded the maximum file size amount.
Note: The files exceed the maximum allowed size for the supporting files tab.
![CONSTRUCTION MANUAL.png](./CONSTRUCTION_MANUAL.png)
### Step 2: Built or buy the shredder box
The plans for constructing a shredder box are detailed. You can also purchase one.
Precious Plastics has very detailed plans on how to built a shredder box. On the Precious Plastics Bazar you can also buy one.
![Best-of-bike-shredder-15.jpg](./Best-of-bike-shredder-15.jpg)
### Step 3: Built the custom axle
This custom flywheel and axle generate momentum for shredding. It also serves as a base for connecting the gears discussed in step 5. Cutting files and technical drawings are available in the files in step 1.
With this custom flywheel and axle, you can create forward momentum to shred the plastic. The flywheel will also provide a perfect base to connect the gears talked about in step 5. All the cutting files and the technical drawings can be found in the files in step 1.
![Production-43.jpg](./Production-43.jpg)
@ -49,7 +47,7 @@ This custom flywheel and axle generate momentum for shredding. It also serves as
### Step 4: Shredder stand and container
Construct the shredder stand to provide an elevated platform for the shredded pieces to exit and to ensure safety. Our construction plan outlines potential optimizations based on issues we encountered.
Built the shredder stand, which will provide a raised platform for the shredded pieces to fall out, and for safety reasons. In the construction plan we explained how you could optimise this stand, since we encountered some problems with ours.
![Production-23.jpg](./Production-23.jpg)
@ -59,7 +57,7 @@ Construct the shredder stand to provide an elevated platform for the shredded pi
### Step 5: Attaching everything together
The power output is amplified through two ratio transmissions totaling 1:4.6, resulting in 4.6 times more power at a reduced rotational speed. A large gear connects to the shredder box, and a substantial crankset is attached to the custom flywheel.
We tried to maxime the power output, through two ratio transmissions, which come to a total of 1:4.6. This will deliver 4.6 more power at the expense of lower rotational speed. A large gear is attached to shredder box and a large crankset is attached to the custom flywheel.
![transmission 2.png](./transmission_2.png)
@ -69,30 +67,12 @@ The power output is amplified through two ratio transmissions totaling 1:4.6, re
### Step 6: Let's start shredding plastic!
### Shredding Process
Now with the finished result, let's start shredding some plastic! and lose a few pounds along the way :)
With the final setup complete, begin shredding the plastic.
![let's start shredding plastic.png](./lets_start_shredding_plastic.png)
## Resources
### Software Requirements
- Construction plans, bill of materials, and laser cutting files: [drive.google.com](https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1m8Bq35N_N-nw5llw7T16WAWR9GLb5i_L?usp=sharing)
### Hardware Components
- Shredder box (detailed construction plans)
- Custom flywheel and axle (technical drawings included)
- Shredder stand (optimized for safety and output)
- Gear system (1:4.6 ratio transmission)
- Large crankset (attached to flywheel)
### Tools
- Laser cutter (for fabricating components from cutting files)
## References
## Open-source Designs
- [Bicycle-Powered Plastic Shredder Construction Files](https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1m8Bq35N_N-nw5llw7T16WAWR9GLb5i_L?usp=sharing)
## References

20
howtos/build-a-bicycle-powered-shredder/config.json
View File

@ -2,7 +2,7 @@
"total_downloads": 115,
"_contentModifiedTimestamp": "2023-06-14T11:02:16.981Z",
"_createdBy": "jamil",
"description": "### Tutorial: Constructing a Bicycle-Powered Plastic Shredder\n\nThis guide outlines the construction of a bicycle-powered plastic shredder and provides instructions for building your own. The device offers a cost-effective method of shredding plastic without relying on electricity.\n\n**Step 1**: Find detailed construction plans and necessary files.",
"description": "In this How-to, you will learn how we constructed our bicycle powered plastic shredder, and how you can built your own! Not only does it give you a relatively cheap way to shred plastic at zero operating costs, but it also gives you freedom from the electrical grid, all while keeping you fit and healthy!\n\nIn step 1 you will find a detailed construction plan and all the files necessary. ",
"files": [],
"votedUsefulBy": [
"mavigogun",
@ -34,7 +34,7 @@
"_modified": "2024-02-12T13:47:11.059Z",
"steps": [
{
"text": "Via this link: [drive.google.com](https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1m8Bq35N_N-nw5llw7T16WAWR9GLb5i_L?usp=sharing), you can access a detailed construction plan, bill of materials, technical drawings, and laser cutting files required to build a bicycle-powered shredder.\n\nNote: The files exceed the maximum allowed size for the supporting files tab.",
"text": "Via this link: <a class=\"text-orange-600 underline\" href=\"https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1m8Bq35N_N-nw5llw7T16WAWR9GLb5i_L?usp=sharing\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">drive.google.com: drive.google.com/drive/folders/1m8Bq35N_N-nw5llw7T16WAWR9GLb5i_L?usp=sharing</a> , you can find a very detailed construction plan and bill of materials, along with technical drawings, laser cutting files and more. This should be more than enough for you to build your own bicycle powered shredder :) \n\n\nWe could not use the supporting files tab, since our files exceeded the maximum file size amount.\n",
"title": "Open the construction manual",
"images": [
{
@ -69,11 +69,11 @@
}
],
"title": "Built or buy the shredder box",
"text": "The plans for constructing a shredder box are detailed. You can also purchase one."
"text": "Precious Plastics has very detailed plans on how to built a shredder box. On the Precious Plastics Bazar you can also buy one. "
},
{
"title": "Built the custom axle ",
"text": "This custom flywheel and axle generate momentum for shredding. It also serves as a base for connecting the gears discussed in step 5. Cutting files and technical drawings are available in the files in step 1.",
"text": "With this custom flywheel and axle, you can create forward momentum to shred the plastic. The flywheel will also provide a perfect base to connect the gears talked about in step 5. All the cutting files and the technical drawings can be found in the files in step 1. ",
"_animationKey": "unique3",
"images": [
{
@ -130,7 +130,7 @@
"alt": "Production-44.jpg"
}
],
"text": "Construct the shredder stand to provide an elevated platform for the shredded pieces to exit and to ensure safety. Our construction plan outlines potential optimizations based on issues we encountered.",
"text": "Built the shredder stand, which will provide a raised platform for the shredded pieces to fall out, and for safety reasons. In the construction plan we explained how you could optimise this stand, since we encountered some problems with ours. ",
"title": "Shredder stand and container"
},
{
@ -161,11 +161,11 @@
}
],
"_animationKey": "uniquekw9hvb",
"text": "The power output is amplified through two ratio transmissions totaling 1:4.6, resulting in 4.6 times more power at a reduced rotational speed. A large gear connects to the shredder box, and a substantial crankset is attached to the custom flywheel.",
"text": "We tried to maxime the power output, through two ratio transmissions, which come to a total of 1:4.6. This will deliver 4.6 more power at the expense of lower rotational speed. A large gear is attached to shredder box and a large crankset is attached to the custom flywheel. ",
"title": "Attaching everything together"
},
{
"text": "### Shredding Process\n\nWith the final setup complete, begin shredding the plastic.",
"text": "Now with the finished result, let's start shredding some plastic! and lose a few pounds along the way :)\n\n",
"_animationKey": "uniquewag8jr",
"images": [
{
@ -261,9 +261,5 @@
"category": {
"label": "uncategorized"
},
"content": "### Tutorial: Constructing a Bicycle-Powered Plastic Shredder\n\nThis guide outlines the construction of a bicycle-powered plastic shredder and provides instructions for building your own. The device offers a cost-effective method of shredding plastic without relying on electricity.\n\n**Step 1**: Find detailed construction plans and necessary files.\n\nVia this link: [drive.google.com](https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1m8Bq35N_N-nw5llw7T16WAWR9GLb5i_L?usp=sharing), you can access a detailed construction plan, bill of materials, technical drawings, and laser cutting files required to build a bicycle-powered shredder.\n\nNote: The files exceed the maximum allowed size for the supporting files tab.\n\nThe plans for constructing a shredder box are detailed. You can also purchase one.\n\nThis custom flywheel and axle generate momentum for shredding. It also serves as a base for connecting the gears discussed in step 5. Cutting files and technical drawings are available in the files in step 1.\n\nConstruct the shredder stand to provide an elevated platform for the shredded pieces to exit and to ensure safety. Our construction plan outlines potential optimizations based on issues we encountered.\n\nThe power output is amplified through two ratio transmissions totaling 1:4.6, resulting in 4.6 times more power at a reduced rotational speed. A large gear connects to the shredder box, and a substantial crankset is attached to the custom flywheel.\n\n### Shredding Process\n\nWith the final setup complete, begin shredding the plastic.",
"keywords": "bicycle-powered plastic shredder, DIY plastic shredder, build plastic shredder, construct bicycle shredder, cost-effective plastic shredding, manual plastic shredding, plastic shredder instructions, shredder construction plans, plastic recycling tools, non-electric shredder",
"resources": "### Software Requirements\n\n- Construction plans, bill of materials, and laser cutting files: [drive.google.com](https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1m8Bq35N_N-nw5llw7T16WAWR9GLb5i_L?usp=sharing)\n\n### Hardware Components\n\n- Shredder box (detailed construction plans)\n- Custom flywheel and axle (technical drawings included)\n- Shredder stand (optimized for safety and output)\n- Gear system (1:4.6 ratio transmission)\n- Large crankset (attached to flywheel)\n\n### Tools\n\n- Laser cutter (for fabricating components from cutting files)",
"references": "## Open-source Designs\n\n- [Bicycle-Powered Plastic Shredder Construction Files](https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1m8Bq35N_N-nw5llw7T16WAWR9GLb5i_L?usp=sharing)",
"brief": "Build a bicycle-powered plastic shredder with our step-by-step guide. This eco-friendly solution offers an efficient, electricity-free method to shred plastic."
"content": "In this How-to, you will learn how we constructed our bicycle powered plastic shredder, and how you can built your own! Not only does it give you a relatively cheap way to shred plastic at zero operating costs, but it also gives you freedom from the electrical grid, all while keeping you fit and healthy!\n\nIn step 1 you will find a detailed construction plan and all the files necessary. \n\nVia this link: <a class=\"text-orange-600 underline\" href=\"https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1m8Bq35N_N-nw5llw7T16WAWR9GLb5i_L?usp=sharing\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">drive.google.com: drive.google.com/drive/folders/1m8Bq35N_N-nw5llw7T16WAWR9GLb5i_L?usp=sharing</a> , you can find a very detailed construction plan and bill of materials, along with technical drawings, laser cutting files and more. This should be more than enough for you to build your own bicycle powered shredder :) \n\n\nWe could not use the supporting files tab, since our files exceeded the maximum file size amount.\n\n\nPrecious Plastics has very detailed plans on how to built a shredder box. On the Precious Plastics Bazar you can also buy one. \n\nWith this custom flywheel and axle, you can create forward momentum to shred the plastic. The flywheel will also provide a perfect base to connect the gears talked about in step 5. All the cutting files and the technical drawings can be found in the files in step 1. \n\nBuilt the shredder stand, which will provide a raised platform for the shredded pieces to fall out, and for safety reasons. In the construction plan we explained how you could optimise this stand, since we encountered some problems with ours. \n\nWe tried to maxime the power output, through two ratio transmissions, which come to a total of 1:4.6. This will deliver 4.6 more power at the expense of lower rotational speed. A large gear is attached to shredder box and a large crankset is attached to the custom flywheel. \n\nNow with the finished result, let's start shredding some plastic! and lose a few pounds along the way :)\n\n"
}

381
howtos/build-a-fishing-canoe/README.md
View File

@ -1,35 +1,41 @@
---
title: Build a Fishing Canoe
slug: build-a-fishing-canoe
description: At the Flipflopi Project, we initiated a unique boat-building course, utilizing waste plastic as the primary construction material. As a practical project, students constructed a local fishing dhow, "Dau la Mwao," a common vessel suitable for a short course.
description: YAP YAP!
At the Flipflopi Project we piloted a first of its kind heritage boat building course, using waste plastic as the major construction material. As a major practical project the students built a local fishing dhow “Dau la Mwao” which is a very commonly used vessel and a doable size for a short boat building course.
This tutorial outlines the process and insights gained.
This how-to shows the process and learnings we made along the way ⛵️
tags: ["product","HDPE"]
category: uncategorized
difficulty: Hard
time: 1+ months
keywords: Flipflopi Project, boat-building course, waste plastic, fishing dhow, unique construction, traditional methods, HDPE plastic, CAD molds, extrusion process, boat fabrication
keywords:
location: Lamu, Kenya
---
# Build a Fishing Canoe
![Build a Fishing Canoe](Screenshot_2023-03-09_at_14.58.35-186c63cfa30.png)
At the Flipflopi Project, we initiated a unique boat-building course, utilizing waste plastic as the primary construction material. As a practical project, students constructed a local fishing dhow, "Dau la Mwao," a common vessel suitable for a short course.
YAP YAP!
At the Flipflopi Project we piloted a first of its kind heritage boat building course, using waste plastic as the major construction material. As a major practical project the students built a local fishing dhow “Dau la Mwao” which is a very commonly used vessel and a doable size for a short boat building course.
This tutorial outlines the process and insights gained.
This how-to shows the process and learnings we made along the way ⛵️
User Location: Lamu, Kenya
## Steps
### Step 1: First things first
First, observe the entire process to gain an understanding.
First sit back and watch the full process so you can get an idea :)
Boatbuilding requires practice and experience, but with this video and the accompanying steps, you can potentially build your own.
Boatbuilding is a skill that needs a lot of practice and experience, but with this video and the following how-to steps, you might actually be able to build your own! ⛵️
Let's see!
### Step 2: Design Considerations
For this boat, we based our measurements on a traditional fishing canoe to create mould designs for fabrication. While alternative designs could be more efficient, we retained the traditional structure to align with existing boatbuilding methods and preserve heritage skills.
For this boat, we took an example and measurement of an existing traditional fishing canoe and made designs for moulds to fabricate the required parts.
Our moulds are designed for multiple uses. For example, the L-shaped rib can double as a bracket for larger vessels, and the "Muli" mould is suitable for both the canoe and a larger Taxi dhow. This approach, however, results in heavier components.
Although we could design very differently (potentially more efficiently) with plastic, we decided to stick as much as possible to the original design, as this enables boatbuilders to use their traditional building approach and helps to teach and maintain their boatbuilding heritage.
For efficient use of materials, our moulds were designed with multi-use in mind (so the L-shape rib can be used as an L-shape bracket to reinforce different parts in a bigger dhow, or a “Muli” mould was long enough to serve for the canoe as well as the slightly bigger Taxi dhow). Note, that this also resulted in heavier parts than necessarily required.
![PXL_20230309_111109826-186c7a01d62.jpg](./PXL_20230309_111109826-186c7a01d62.jpg)
@ -39,11 +45,15 @@ Our moulds are designed for multiple uses. For example, the L-shaped rib can dou
### Step 3: Mould making
The custom molds were designed using CAD, and the accompanying drawings are available in the download files. These molds were plasma cut from 4 mm (0.16 inches) steel sheets. The mold sides featured alignment steps to ease assembly; however, due to the imprecision of the plasma cutter, significant manual finishing was required.
The custom moulds were designed in CAD and the drawings (you can find them in the download files) were sent to the be plasma cut out of 4mm steel sheets.
The sides of the moulds were designed with alignment steps, to make assembly easier (due to an unclean cutting of the plasma cutter this resulted in a lot of manual post-processing work and unclean edges though).
The rest was fabricated in-house: Assembling, bending, welding, drilling and bolting. To avoid swelling of the mould under pressure, reinforcement brackets were added to the sides.
NOTE: For future welding jobs, we would cut the sides of the metal parts straight (without alignment steps), unless we are 100% sure about the quality of the cutting. This simplifies the process and even allows us to fabricate completely in-house, making the process more affordable at the same time.
The remaining fabrication—assembling, bending, welding, drilling, and bolting—was completed internally. To prevent deformation under pressure, reinforcement brackets were installed on the sides.
Note: For future welding, we recommend cutting the metal parts with straight edges, omitting alignment steps, unless the cut quality is guaranteed. This approach simplifies the process and supports complete in-house fabrication, potentially reducing costs.
![Screenshot 2023-01-27 at 15.18.18-185f33dd541.png](./Screenshot_2023-01-27_at_15.18.18-185f33dd541.png)
@ -56,89 +66,78 @@ Note: For future welding, we recommend cutting the metal parts with straight edg
### Step 4: Extruding
To extrude or inject into these parts, a fast, powerful extruder is necessary due to their large volume. Although we utilized an industrial extruder, an Extruder Pro (Design) may also be suitable, pending further testing.
To extrude / inject into these parts you will need quite a fast and powerful Extruder, as they have quite a big volume. We are using an industrial extruder, but an Extruder Pro ([filtered] Design) could also work (to be tested!).
Our extruder filled the parts with approximately 33-44 pounds (15-20 kg) of plastic in 10-15 minutes. Due to noticeable shrinkage and air pockets, we modified the process and continued injecting plastic for an additional 1-2 minutes after it emerged from the relief holes, ensuring complete mold filling and achieving better compression.
With our extruder, we filled the parts in about 10-15min with 15-20kg of plastic. As we noticed a lot of shrinkage and air pockets in the material, we adjusted the process and continued injecting plastic for 1-2 more minutes once the plastic came out the relief holes (indicating that the mould was full) to achieve more compression.
We used 100% HDPE for our parts.
Note: Assess the quality of your parts to determine if process adjustments are necessary. Weight can indicate the presence of air pockets.
LEARNING: Make sure to check the quality of your parts to know if you need to adjust anything in the process. The weight is a good indication for the likeliness of airpocket inside.
![20220902_152133-185f33d8b92.jpg](./20220902_152133-185f33d8b92.jpg)
### Step 5: Get ready for boat building!
### Materials and Tools for Boat Building
Time to prepare all your materials and tools for boat building. This is what you'll need:
**Materials:**
Plastic material:
- Custom parts for the L-ribs, V-rib and front/back "muli"
- Lumber for the base, hull and interior (ideally min. 3m long)
You don't have to choose exactly the same sizes - have a look what you have available that can be strong enough
- **Plastic Parts:** Custom components for L-ribs, V-rib, and front/back sections.
- **Lumber:** For base, hull, and interior, ideally at least 3 meters (9.8 feet) in length. Choose available strong materials.
Fixings: screws and bolts, corking cotton
**Fixings:** Screws, bolts, and corking cotton.
Tools:
- standard working tools: saws, chisels, drill, screwdrivers, ruler, square
- traditional dhow/boat making tools (see image)
- heat gun (or welding gun) / melting machine
**Tools:**
Space: Use a flat space with smooth floor to make it easy to collect the plastic dust / particles.
- **Standard Tools:** Saws, chisels, drill, screwdrivers, ruler, square.
- **Specialty Tools:** Traditional dhow or boat-making tools.
- **Heat Equipment:** Heat gun or welding tool, melting machine.
**Space Requirements:** A flat area with a smooth floor facilitates easy collection of dust and particles.
![Tools-185f3ba6d1d.png](./Tools-185f3ba6d1d.png)
### Step 6: Utako and Levelling
### Keel Leveling Instructions
First very important step is to level your keel ("Utako") as all your next steps will be based and relying this straightness and level.
**Materials Required:**
- Keel Plank: 9x2 inches (22.86x5.08 cm), 16 feet (4.88 meters) long
- Base Logs: 5x5 inches (12.7x12.7 cm)
Material used:
- Keel Plank (9x2", 16ft long)
- Base logs (5x5")
**Tools Needed:**
- Spirit Level
- Hose Pipe
Levelling tools: Spirit Level and Hose pipe
**Procedure:**
1. Divide the keel into five equal segments and position a log at each division.
2. Position the keel plank, ensuring it is perfectly level.
3. Secure the keel to the base using nails or pegs on both sides.
4. Mark a center line on the keel to ensure proper alignment of subsequent components.
Process:
- divide the keel length into 5 and put a log at every fifth
- place the keel and make sure all is level
- fix the keel to the base with nails (or pegs) on both sides
- mark the center line on your keel, to align all coming parts to your center
**Note:** Plastic planks may exhibit bending or twisting. Apply weight to correct and level them.
Note: Plastic planks can sometimes have a bend or twist. You can help bring them on one level by adding weight.
![IMG_4386-184c74fb28b.JPG](./IMG_4386-184c74fb28b.JPG)
### Step 7: Front and back Mulis
### Materials Needed
- Mulis (2 units)
- Temporary supporting poles (Mabunda)
Materials used: Mulis (2x) and temporary supporting poles ("Mabunda")
### Process
Process:
- mark the center line on the front and back side of your muli
- if your muli is a bit warped, shape it on both long sides, so that its straight and symmetric
- cut a ribbet according to the size of your planks
- choose the angles for your Mulis to sit on the keel (we chose 45° in the front, and 70° in the back)
- cut the base of your muli according to the needed angle
- mark the shape of the Mulis on your keel and chisel it out (about 1/2" deep) and join them
- support the Mulis by adding Mabundas on the sides and the end
- use your Kabiru (plumb bob) to ensure your Mulis are straight and aligned to the center
- to fix the mulis in place, drill a hole through Muli and keel and join with a nut an bolt
1. **Mark Center Line:** Identify the front and back center lines on each Muli.
2. **Shape Muli:** If warped, trim the long sides of the Muli to straighten and balance.
Note: We used silicone between the surfaces and cotton around the bolt to seal the joint.
3. **Cut Ribbet:** Tailor the ribbet according to the plank dimensions.
4. **Determine Angles:** Select angles for positioning Mulis on the keel (45° front, 70° back).
5. **Base Cutting:** Trim the Muli base to fit the selected angles.
6. **Mark and Chisel:** Outline the Mulis on the keel, then chisel to a depth of 1/2 inch (1.27 cm) and assemble.
7. **Support Mulis:** Stabilize with Mabundas affixed to sides and ends.
8. **Alignment Check:** Use a plumb bob (Kabiru) to ensure Mulis align straight with the center.
9. **Secure Position:** Drill through the Muli and keel; fasten with a nut and bolt.
**Note:** A silicone sealant was applied between surfaces, with cotton wrapped around the bolt for added sealing.
![IMG_4587-184c75c16d8.JPG](./IMG_4587-184c75c16d8.JPG)
@ -151,45 +150,40 @@ Note: Assess the quality of your parts to determine if process adjustments are n
### Step 8: Front and back Bitana
# Bitana Installation Guide
The Bitana is a bracket reinforcement to hold the Muli to the Keel.
## Purpose
The Bitana serves as a bracket to secure the Muli to the Keel.
Materials:
- L-shape rib pieces (2x)
## Materials
- Two L-shaped rib pieces
Process:
- shape the Rib piece to fit the angle of the Muli to the keel
- make it tapered so the planks can go alongside
- drill and bolt it to the Muli and the Keel
## Instructions
1. Shape each rib piece to align with the angle between the Muli and the keel.
2. Taper the ribs to accommodate adjacent planks.
3. Drill and bolt the ribs to both the Muli and the Keel.
Do this on the front and the back side.
Repeat this process for both the front and back sides.
![IMG_4850-184c765f5fa.JPG](./IMG_4850-184c765f5fa.JPG)
### Step 9: Define the boat shape
Certainly.
You can choose different widths depending on how you want to use the boat. To be able to transport people comfortably, we chose the width to be a quarter of the length. It helps to choose the width according to the planks you have available.
---
You can select varying widths based on the intended use of the boat. For comfortably transporting people, we decided on a width one-quarter of the length. It's useful to align the width with the available planks.
### Materials
Materials:
- "Mapande" (wooden poles)
- A flexible, thin piece of wood or plastic for temporary "kinara" (top plank of the hull)
- thin and long easily bending piece of wood/plastic for temporary "kinara" (top plank of the hull)
Process:
- attach Mapande at the widest point of the dhow
- create the rough shape with thin planks
- use a rope (or ruler/tape measure) to confirm equal width between both sides
- put rest of Mapande in place on the remaining base beams
- fixate your temporary "kinara" on the Mapande to keep the shape
- secure the position with "Mitindikani" - horizontal poles to keep the distance
### Process
1. Attach Mapande at the boat's widest point.
2. Shape the boat with thin planks.
3. Use a rope or ruler/tape measure to ensure equal width on both sides.
4. Position the remaining Mapande on the base beams.
5. Fix the temporary "kinara" on the Mapande to maintain shape.
6. Use "Mitindikani" (horizontal poles) to secure the position.
---
![IMG_4782-184c76f30be.JPG](./IMG_4782-184c76f30be.JPG)
@ -199,17 +193,19 @@ You can select varying widths based on the intended use of the boat. For comfort
### Step 10: Mataruma (Ribs)
## Materials:
Materials:
- L-shape ribs (14x)
## Process:
1. Arrange ribs in pairs with 30.5 cm (12 inches) between pairs.
2. Ensure weight distribution is balanced front/back and left/right.
3. Cut longer pieces to match the shape.
4. Use a square to align ribs at a right angle to the keel.
5. If pieces are warped, use a planer or saw for correction.
6. Bolt ribs to the keel.
7. Add cross poles to secure ribs.
Process:
- place your ribs in place (in pairs) with equal distances to each other (we chose a distance of 12" between the pairs)
- if the parts vary in weight, make sure you distribute them so the weight is balanced (front/back, left/right)
- now cut the longer pieces according to the shape
- use a square to make sure the ribs sit in a right angle to the keel
- if there is warping/uneven sides of your pieces, use a shoka or saw to make them sit alongside nicely
- bolt the ribs to the keel
- place mitindikani (crossing poles) to keep the ribs in place
![IMG_4929-184c77bfc3a.JPG](./IMG_4929-184c77bfc3a.JPG)
@ -219,12 +215,11 @@ You can select varying widths based on the intended use of the boat. For comfort
### Step 11: Farkumu
Materials
Materials
- V-shape ribs "Farkumu" (2x)
Instructions:
- Position the V-shape beam on the Bitana and create a lap joint to connect them.
- Secure with a bolt through the keel.
- The V-shape beam sits on the Bitana. To join them, make a lap joint between Bitana and Farkumu.
- Join them with a bolt through the keel
![IMG_4858-184c79b9ddd.JPG](./IMG_4858-184c79b9ddd.JPG)
@ -234,24 +229,19 @@ Instructions:
### Step 12: Kinara (top hull)
### Fitting the Hull
**Materials:** 9x1.5" (22.86x3.81 cm) planks, 10 pieces
THIS STEP TAKES A LOT OF TIME TO MAKE THE HULL FIT WELL.
**Instructions:**
Material: 9x1,5" x 10pcs
1. **Prepare the Top Plank (Kinara):**
- Mark and cut the bevel according to specifications.
- Position and secure the plank using clamps.
- Adjust ribs as needed for proper alignment.
- Fasten the plank with screws.
Start with Kinara (top plank)
- mark and cut the bevel according to Muli
- place plank in place and clamp it (we use our local technique "kisongo")
- if necessary, adjust the ribs, so they are aligned nicely
- fix in place with screws
- take the second piece, repeat fitting and cut a Z-joint to join the pieces
Do this on both sides, so the Kinara is all around the top.
2. **Attach Additional Planks:**
- Repeat the fitting process for the second piece.
- Cut a Z-joint to connect the pieces securely.
3. **Complete the Top Perimeter:**
- Ensure the Kinara encircles the top on both sides.
![IMG_4946-184c7ab3e31.JPG](./IMG_4946-184c7ab3e31.JPG)
@ -264,32 +254,36 @@ Instructions:
### Step 13: Wajihi (rest of hull)
Materials: 9x1.5" planks (6 pcs)
Materials: 9x1.5" planks (6pcs)
- Complete the remaining rows with the same method.
- Unlike the top plank, a bevel joint may be used between the planks instead of a Z-joint.
- Alternate joint positions to prevent weak points where joints align.
- finish the other rows with the same process
- in contrast to top plank (kinara), you can use a bevel joint between the planks instead of Z-joint
-alternate the position of your joints as otherwise it creates a week point where all the joints are
Ensure all planks fit tightly with minimal gaps. Use a saw to trim uneven edges if necessary.
MAKE SURE ALL PLANKS ARE FITTED TIGHTLY, SO THERE IS AS LITTLE GAP AS POSSIBLE.
(you can use a saw in between to cut of uneven corners)
![Screenshot 2023-01-28 at 20.56.36-185f986f8da.png](./Screenshot_2023-01-28_at_20.56.36-185f986f8da.png)
### Step 14: Top locking
### Materials
Next step is to lock everything well in place with side strips and crossing beams
Material:
- Tampisi: 2x3" planks (4pcs)
- Fundo la mongoti (crossing beam for the mast): 9x2"
- Fundo la nyuma (back crossing beam): 9x1.5"
Process:
- we cut a step into the ribs to make the tampisi and firari sit flush on the sides
- place the tampisi onto the step and fix in place with screws
- place a the "fundo la mongoti" on top of the tampisi at 1/3 of the keel from the front
- place "fundo la nyuma" on top of the tampisi in the back (where desired)
- make lap joints between Tampisi + Fundos and bolt them together
- Tampisi: 2x3 inches (5.1x7.6 cm) planks (4 pieces)
- Fundo la mongoti (crossing beam for the mast): 9x2 inches (22.9x5.1 cm)
- Fundo la nyuma (back crossing beam): 9x1.5 inches (22.9x3.8 cm)
### Process
1. Cut a step into the ribs to ensure the tampisi and firari fit flush against the sides.
2. Place the tampisi onto the step and secure it with screws.
3. Position "fundo la mongoti" atop the tampisi at one-third of the keel from the front.
4. Position "fundo la nyuma" atop the tampisi at the desired location in the back.
5. Create lap joints between the Tampisi and Fundos, securing with bolts.
![IMG_5165-184c7b2d9ea.JPG](./IMG_5165-184c7b2d9ea.JPG)
@ -299,20 +293,20 @@ Ensure all planks fit tightly with minimal gaps. Use a saw to trim uneven edges
### Step 15: Staha
Staha is designed to reinforce the Muli to Kinara, providing both seating and storage.
Staha is to reinforce the Muli to Kinara (and to provide sitting area and storage)
Materials Required:
- 9x1.5" (22.9x3.8 cm) plank
- 2x4" (5.1x10.2 cm) plank
Used materials:
- 9x1,5" plank
- 2x4" plank
Process:
FRONT STAHA
- Trim the top of the muli to align with the top plank.
- Position a 2x4" (5.1x10.2 cm) beam perpendicularly to the center line for support.
- Cut planks to fit over the boat's front triangle.
- cut the top of the muli so its extending the line of the top plank
- place a 2x4" beam to support in a right angle to the center line as support
- cut planks to cover the front triangle of the boat
BACK STAHA
- Fit two planks to create a seating base, leaving an opening for rope attachment.
- we simply fitted 2 planks to make a sitting base (and left a hole as it can be useful to fix ropes etc.)
![IMG_5175-184c7b7963b.JPG](./IMG_5175-184c7b7963b.JPG)
@ -322,21 +316,20 @@ BACK STAHA
### Step 16: Firari + Dufani
Firari and Dufani reinforce the top edges and structure.
Firari and Dufani are the top to finish off the top edges and reinforce the structure once more.
Materials:
- Dufani (5x1", 4 pieces)
- Firari (2.5x1", 4 pieces)
Materials: Dufani (5x1", 4pcs), Firari (2.5x1", 4pcs)
Firari Process:
1. Position Firari at the top of the structure and shave them to level with Dufani.
2. Ensure the distance between Firari and adjacent parts is parallel.
3. Join the planks with a bevel joint and secure with screws.
Process Firari:
- position the Firari at the top of the mataruma (and shave them so the Dufani can sit levelled)
- try to keep the distance between tampisi and firari parallel
- join the planks with a bevel joint and screw them in place
Dufani Process:
1. Cut the front angle for a proper fit at the corners.
2. Bend the plank gradually: clamp the first foot (approx. 12"), screw in place, then continue bending and securing every foot until fully bent.
3. Repeat the process from the opposite end, meeting in the center with a bevel joint.
Process Dufani:
- start by cutting the angle in the front so it attaches well into the front/back corner
- for bending the plank, go "pole pole" (slowly slowly):
clamp the first foot (30cm) and screw it in place, then bend the plank, screw the next foot, etc. until it is completely bent
- do the same from the other end and meet in the center with a bevel joint
![IMG_5396-184c7ba18a8.JPG](./IMG_5396-184c7ba18a8.JPG)
@ -346,13 +339,15 @@ Dufani Process:
### Step 17: Finish the base
Flip the dhow to complete the base.
Time to turn your dhow upside down to finish the base!
Ensure you create a water channel on both sides.
Important!
Don't forget to create a water channel on both sides for the water to pass through. (see photo)
Cut the planks to match the base's shape, minimizing gaps.
Cut your planks according to the shape of your base, and make sure to fit them with as little as gap as possible.
Screw them onto the ribs. Base is done :)
Secure them to the ribs. Base complete.
![IMG_5452-184c7c449b7.JPG](./IMG_5452-184c7c449b7.JPG)
@ -365,14 +360,15 @@ Secure them to the ribs. Base complete.
### Step 18: Finishing & Sealing
### Finalizing and Sealing the Dhow
Now last step remaining is to finish and seal the dhow, so no water can enter inside.
1. Trim the excess corners of the planks to smooth the hull's surface.
2. Use traditional caulking with cotton, inserting it between plank gaps with a "chembeo."
3. Complete the process by sealing with melted plastic using a heat gun, a method akin to plastic welding.
4. Apply plastic welding to seal screws and other gaps.
- shave the excess corners of the planks to smoothen the surface of the hull
- we used the traditional corking with cotton and hit it inbetween the gaps of the planks with the "chembeo"
- to finalise, we topped up the kalafati with melted plastic with a heat gun to seal it completely (it's like plastic welding)
- with the plastic welding we also sealed the screws and other gaps
**Note:** The plastic welding used was rudimentary and requires further testing. Results from using a specialized plastic welding tool will be shared in the future.
NOTE: The plastic welding was done very low-tech and is to be tested!
We hope to test a proper plastic welding tool soon for the sealing of the hull and will share the results :)
![IMG_5518-184c7d11c82.JPG](./IMG_5518-184c7d11c82.JPG)
@ -385,23 +381,25 @@ Secure them to the ribs. Base complete.
### Step 19: Testing & finalising hull
After completing the hull and initial sealing, it's time for testing:
Big moment! When you're done with the hull and first round of sealing, it's time to test:
- Invert the boat
- Launch into water or fill it
- Identify any leaks by observing water entry points
- Complete sealing at those locations
- turn the boat around
- launch it in the water (or fill it with water)
- observe where the water is passing through gaps to find any leakage
- finalise the sealing on those points
![IMG_5768-184c7d32d31.JPG](./IMG_5768-184c7d32d31.JPG)
### Step 20: Rigging / Powering
Congratulations, you have completed the initial steps.
Alright, you're basically done!
Now choose your boat's propulsion method: motor, paddles, or sail.
You can now decide how you want to power your boat:
With a motor, paddles, or a sail?
Our preference is a sail with a rudder. We used traditional wooden mast and boom. A visually striking sail can also serve as an attention-grabber.
We are sailors, so we obviously put a sail, with a rudder. (The mast and boom are traditional ones out of wood)
Additional bonus if you use a sail: Make it an eye catcher and use the opportunity to create awareness ✨
![Dau la Mwao-184c7d73126.jpg](./Dau_la_Mwao-184c7d73126.jpg)
@ -414,59 +412,14 @@ Our preference is a sail with a rudder. We used traditional wooden mast and boom
### Step 21: SAIL AND INSPIRE
# Tutorial Conclusion
Now go out there, inspire others, tell them the story (and to join the fight against plastic pollution), and enjoy!
Encourage others and share your experience. If you pursue a similar project or find inspiration in this, please inform us. We welcome your feedback.
If you get to this point or it inspires you to do something similar, please let us know, we'd be so happy (you can tag us on social media with @​​​​​​​theflipflopi)
Always keep a tool handy to remove water. Even if it's not entering from below, it may be entering with the waves.
Oh, and always have something with you to bale out water - even if no water is coming in from the bottom, it might be coming in with the waves :)
![IMG_6324-185f91722da.JPG](./IMG_6324-185f91722da.JPG)
## Resources
### Software
- CAD software for mold design
### Hardware
- Plasma cutter (4 mm steel sheets)
- Industrial extruder (e.g., Extruder Pro)\
The reason is because
- High-power heat gun or plastic welding tool
- Drilling and bolting equipment
- Melting machine for HDPE processing
### Tools
- Standard tools (saws, chisels, drill, screwdrivers, ruler, square)
- Spirit level and hose pipe for keel alignment
- Plumb bob (Kabiru) and chembeo (caulking tool)
- Clamps and planer for plank shaping
- Traditional dhow boat-making tools
## References
## References
### Articles
- [The Flipflopi Project: Mitigating Plastic Pollution through Heritage Boat Building](https://smepprogramme.org/project/the-flipflopi-project/)
- ~~[Flipflopi turns plastic waste into beautiful Kenyan boats](https://inhabitat.com/flipflopi-turns-plastic-waste-into-beautiful-kenyan-boats/)~~
- [Closing the Loop on Waste Plastics Through Heritage Boat Building](https://www.unesco.org/en/articles/closing-loop-waste-plastics-through-heritage-boat-building)
- [Meet the 'plastic revolutionaries' of Kenya and Uganda](https://www.whatdesigncando.com/stories/meet-the-plastic-revolutionaries-of-kenya-and-uganda/)
### YouTube
- [Making Dhow (Arab Boat)](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QdwYZv_fgf0)
- [How to build a canoe from plastic waste](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ku3btzZyBPA)
- [The Flipflopi Expedition: An Overview](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JcBajK5gjC0)
### Open-source Designs
- [Boat Build Toolkit](https://www.theflipflopi.com/blog/launching-the-boat-build-toolkit)
- [Boatbuilding Toolkit](https://www.theflipflopi.com/boatbuilding-toolkit)
- Build a 'Flipflopi' boat
- [The Flipflopi Project Documentation](https://static1.squarespace.com/static/591594fa5016e15d0cf9453c/t/633ed2675b96e34a1d6e0f9f/1665061653166/Introducing+The+Flipflopi2022.pdf)
### Papers
- [Material Analysis Report](https://tinyurl.com/flipflopi-material-analysis)
## References

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---
title: Build a 'Flipflopi' boat
slug: build-a-flipflopi-boat
description: The Flipflopi is a sailing boat constructed from recycled plastic and flip-flops gathered in Kenya.
description: The Flipflopi is a sailing boat made from 100% recycled plastic and flip-flops collected from the streets and beaches in Kenya.
Here, we share its construction process and insights gained.
Here we want to share how it was made and what we learned on the way.
tags: ["product","research","extrusion"]
category: Guides
difficulty: Very Hard
time: 1+ months
keywords: Flipflopi, recycled plastic boat, Kenya, sustainable sailing, alternative materials, boat construction, plastic pollution, eco-friendly, experimental prototype, Lamu boat builder
keywords:
location: Lamu, Kenya
---
# Build a 'Flipflopi' boat
![Build a 'Flipflopi' boat](flipflopi-sailing-front-2.jpg)
The Flipflopi is a sailing boat constructed from recycled plastic and flip-flops gathered in Kenya.
The Flipflopi is a sailing boat made from 100% recycled plastic and flip-flops collected from the streets and beaches in Kenya.
Here, we share its construction process and insights gained.
Here we want to share how it was made and what we learned on the way.
User Location: Lamu, Kenya
## Steps
### Step 1: Intro
This boat is a prototype, the first of its kind. The methods used were experimental and imperfect. Use this as a learning tool and for inspiration.
First off, this boat is a first of its kind, a prototype. The processes we used were done for the first time and are not perfect (far from that!). So don’t take this as a guide to copy identically but more as something to learn from and and to get inspired :)
![flipflopi-howto-step1.jpg](./flipflopi-howto-step1.jpg)
### Step 2: Get a boatbuilder
## How to Build a Boat with Alternative Materials
Okay, so it all started with finding a local boat builder, who was confident and visionary enough to believe that we could build a boat from a totally different material than what they were used to.
We began by collaborating with a local boat builder, Ali Skanda from Lamu, who was open to using unconventional materials. He and his team applied their expertise to this new challenge.
Ali Skanda, from Lamu, was our man and gathered his boatbuilder team to apply their knowledge to a new material.
It is advisable to partner with experienced boat builders to focus on integrating new materials into existing processes without the added complexity of mastering boat construction.
We definitely recommend finding someone who knows how to build boats, so you can focus on learning how to use plastic for already existing processes, instead of trying to learn another complex skill on top of that!
![flipflopi-howto-step2-1.JPG](./flipflopi-howto-step2-1.JPG)
@ -45,11 +45,11 @@ It is advisable to partner with experienced boat builders to focus on integratin
### Step 3: Make a plan
We collaborated with Ali Skanda to design a boat and outline the necessary components and joineries.
With Ali Skanda we made a plan and designed the boat, to get an idea of the required components and joineries.
The aim is to construct a boat large enough to convey the message against single-use plastic and plastic pollution globally.
The goal originally was (and still is), to build a boat which would be big enough to travel the message to fight single-use plastic and plastic pollution around the world.
Below are sketches providing an overview of the parts.
Here some of the sketches to get an overview of the parts.
![BoatBuild-1.jpg](./BoatBuild-1.jpg)
@ -62,11 +62,11 @@ Below are sketches providing an overview of the parts.
### Step 4: Test manufacturers & materials
In our effort to produce everything locally in Kenya, a significant challenge was establishing collaborations with manufacturers capable of delivering quality materials consistently.
As the approach was to have everything made locally in Kenya, a big challenge was (still is) to find collaborations with recycling manufacturers who deliver quality materials, reliably.
Initially, manufacturers mixed different plastics or added substances like sawdust or sand as stiffeners. We succeeded in having them work with a single type of plastic without additives. An essential step in this process involved obtaining material samples and testing the joinery for boat construction.
We started at at point where they were mixing plastic types together or even add sawdust or sand (as a “stiffener”) and it’s already a success to have them working with only one type of plastic, without anything else mixed in. Part of this was getting material samples and testing joineries which would be used in the boat.
Starting with samples can help save time and reduce costs before ordering larger quantities of materials.
Starting with samples can save you a lot of time and costs, before ordering a bigger amount of materials.
![flipflopi-howto-step4-2.JPG](./flipflopi-howto-step4-2.JPG)
@ -79,11 +79,11 @@ Starting with samples can help save time and reduce costs before ordering larger
### Step 5: Start building
Having established the procedures, we began manufacturing components for a 79-foot (24-meter) boat. The parts were substantial.
With the processes more or less figured out, we started producing the recycled parts for a 24m boat - They were HUGE.
Although the quality was quite basic, it demonstrated feasibility. Given the novelty and significant investment involved, we opted to build a smaller 33-foot (10-meter) prototype first.
The quality was very rough, but it was good to see that it was possible. And as this hasn’t been done before and was going to be a big investment, we decided to make a smaller 10m prototype first.
Next, we will detail how we created the Flipflopi Dogo ("dogo" means "small" in Kiswahili).
So in the next step you'll see how we actually made the Flipflopi Dogo (“dogo” = “small” in Kiswahili).
![flipflopi-howto-step5-2.jpg](./flipflopi-howto-step5-2.jpg)
@ -93,15 +93,13 @@ Next, we will detail how we created the Flipflopi Dogo ("dogo" means "small" in
### Step 6: The big parts
### Overview of Production Process
The production of the BIG PARTS like keel and ribs was one of the biggest challenges. We managed to work with what we could get, with a lot of space for improvements!
The production of major components like the keel and ribs posed significant challenges. We utilized available resources, acknowledging potential areas for improvement.
We collaborated with the closest plastic recycling manufacturer Regeneration Africa in Malindi, where they usually produce fencing posts and tiles.
We worked with a plastic manufacturer in Malindi known for producing fencing posts and tiles.
Here is an overview of their process. (second image). We made over 30 metal moulds for different boat parts which were filled this way, using HDPE which is the most common and easiest type to collect separately (after PET).
Below is an overview of their process. We created over 30 metal molds for various boat parts, using HDPE, a commonly collected material.
Sam and his team were instrumental in exploring different processes and materials.
Sam and his team were a huge help to explore and figure out different processes and materials!
![FF-boatbuilding-process-1.png](./FF-boatbuilding-process-1.png)
@ -114,7 +112,12 @@ Sam and his team were instrumental in exploring different processes and material
### Step 7: The planks
For the planks, we collaborated with manufacturers in Nairobi who also produce fencing posts and other construction materials. It is common to add sawdust to the material to increase stiffness and reduce costs, although this mix is more prone to breaking than pure plastic. After several attempts, we successfully created planks made from 100% recycled plastic. These planks were produced using industrial machines but can also be made with the Extrusion Pro.
For the planks we collaborated with other manufacturers in Nairobi, which also produce fencing posts as well as other construction material.
It's a quite common practice there to mix in sawdust to make the material stiffer and cheaper to produce (but that material mix also breaks much easier than pure plastic). It took a couple of attempts, but in the end we managed to get the 100% recycled plastic planks.
These planks were produced with professional, industrial machines, but could definitely be made with the [filtered] Extrusion Pro as well!
(Extrusion Pro:
![flipflopi-dogo-42-.jpg](./flipflopi-dogo-42-.jpg)
@ -124,15 +127,11 @@ For the planks, we collaborated with manufacturers in Nairobi who also produce f
### Step 8: The flip-flop sheets
Certainly. Here is the revised text:
40% of all the waste collected on the beaches were flip-flops. This is where the project got its name from and why flip-flops were an obligatory element of this boat.
---
So we covered the whole boat with sheets of recycled flip-flops, giving it a very colourful look and adding an extra protective layer (the whole boat feels like a big yoga mat :))
Forty percent of the waste collected on beaches consisted of flip-flops, inspiring the project's name and their inclusion in the boat's design.
The entire boat was covered with sheets of flip-flops, providing a colorful appearance and an additional protective layer resembling a large yoga mat.
These sheets were crafted by local artist James, who cuts the flip-flops into pieces, glues them, and sands them into even sheets.
The sheets were made by local flipflop artist James who cuts the flip-flops into pieces, glues them together and sands them to an even sheet.
![flipflopi howto-flipflops-1.jpg](./flipflopi_howto-flipflops-1.jpg)
@ -145,13 +144,11 @@ These sheets were crafted by local artist James, who cuts the flip-flops into pi
### Step 9: The boat build
## How to Build the Boat
Time to build the boat! Starting with the keel, the ribs and connection parts, then making the hull with the extruded planks, and finishing with the colourful Flipflop sheets.
Begin with constructing the keel, ribs, and connection parts, followed by forming the hull with extruded planks, and conclude with the Flipflop sheets.
Other than using this new material, the boatbuilders made the boat in their traditional way, meaning that they used very basic tools (every screw was inserted with a hand drill and a screwdriver!).
The boatbuilders adhered to traditional methods, using fundamental tools, where screws were inserted with a hand drill and screwdriver.
This hands-on expertise requires a skilled boatbuilder.
This is obviously something we won't be able to teach you here - that's what you need a boatbuilder for! :)
![flipflopi-dogo-36.JPG](./flipflopi-dogo-36.JPG)
@ -164,11 +161,11 @@ This hands-on expertise requires a skilled boatbuilder.
### Step 10: Sail and inspire!
The next step involved adding parts from other sailing boats, such as the mast, boom, sail, and ropes. With these additions, the boat was ready for its intended purpose: sailing.
Alright, now we only had to add (second hand) parts from other sailing boats like the mast, boom, sail and ropes. And were finally ready to do what the boat was meant to be for: Sailing around Kenya to create awareness around the problem and inspire local communities to be part of a positive change!
On our maiden voyage, the boat successfully sailed over 310 miles (500 km) from northern Kenya to Zanzibar, safely transporting passengers and capturing interest along the route.
On our first expedition the boat sailed smoothly for more than 500km from the north of Kenya to Zanzibar, carried its passengers safely while creating excitement and fascination everywhere we went!
**Important:** Ensure your boat is seaworthy. You are responsible for the safety of yourself and your passengers.
❗️IMPORTANT: Definitely test and check your boat if it's seaworthy! You'll be responsible for your passengers and yourself, and don't want to risk your lives 🙏
![FF-boatbuilding-process-7.jpg](./FF-boatbuilding-process-7.jpg)
@ -181,79 +178,33 @@ On our maiden voyage, the boat successfully sailed over 310 miles (500 km) from
### Step 11: Things we learned
It was a significant endeavor with considerable learning, resulting in a functional boat. However, the process had room for improvement.
It was a big process with a lot of learning, and yes, the result is a functional boat - but the process was quite rough with a lot of space for improvement.
During this time, we conducted additional tests and analyzed material properties. A report is available here: [Material Analysis Report](tinyurl.com/flipflopi-material-analysis).
On the way we also made more tests and analysed the properties of the materials.
You can find a report here:
tinyurl.com/flipflopi-material-analysis
The document shared in Step 1 contains further details.
And the document we shared in Step 1 has everything with more details as well :)
![Screenshot 2020-10-07 at 19.08.43.png](./Screenshot_2020-10-07_at_19.08.43.png)
### Step 12: Join us! ⛵️
### Project Update
We already reached hundreds of thousands locally and globally with our expedition and the story around the boat. It's a great tool to reach people in a positive way to push good changes.
We have successfully engaged numerous individuals worldwide with our expedition and its narrative, effectively fostering beneficial change.
So, we'll be building a much bigger boat which can sail longer distances and reach millions! There is still a lot to improve and figure out for a boat of that size! But as Ali Skanda says: "Kila kitu inaweze kana." - Everything is possible :)
Our next step is to construct a larger vessel capable of navigating greater distances and reaching a broader audience. This ambitious project presents several challenges, but as Ali Skanda notes, "Kila kitu inawezekana" – everything is possible.
Hope this was insightful or at least a bit inspiring 🙃
For inquiries or to support our endeavors, please contact theflipflopi@gmail.com or consider supporting us at [patreon.com/theflipflopi](https://www.patreon.com/theflipflopi).
Want to get involved? ✉️ theflipflopi@​gmail.com
Or become a supporter (yay!) 👐
<a class="text-orange-600 underline" href="https://www.patreon.com/theflipflopi" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">patreon.com: patreon.com/theflipflopi</a>
If you create a similar vessel, we encourage you to share your achievements with us.
And if you end up building a similar boat, make sure to share it! (@​theflipflopi)
![kubwa-next.jpg](./kubwa-next.jpg)
## Resources
### Tools
- Hand drill (manual screw insertion)
- Screwdriver (traditional assembly)
- Sanding tools (flip-flop sheet preparation)
- Metal molds (30+ for boat components)
- Extrusion Pro (plank production)
### Hardware
- Recycled HDPE plastic (primary material)
- 100% recycled plastic planks (local manufacturing)
- Recycled flip-flop sheets (protective outer layer)
- Sailboat components: mast, boom, sail, ropes
- Material testing equipment (sample validation) · [Report](https://tinyurl.com/flipflopi-material-analysis)
### Software
*No software explicitly mentioned in the production process.*
### Additional Resources
- Local plastic manufacturers (Malindi/Nairobi partnerships)
- Traditional boatbuilding expertise (Lamu craftsmanship)
- ~~[Project Contact](mailto:theflipflopi@gmail.com)~~ · [Support](https://www.patreon.com/theflipflopi)
## References
## Articles
- [Boat made from 100% recycled plastic sets sail in Kenya](https://www.climateaction.org/news/boat-made-from-100-recycled-plastic-sets-sail-in-kenya)
- [Flip-flop-clad boat brings plastic recycling message to East African coast](https://news.mongabay.com/2019/03/flip-flop-clad-boat-brings-plastic-recycling-message-to-east-african-coast/)
- [FLIPFLOPI: the world’s first sailing boat made from plastic waste](https://www.entreprenanteafrique.com/en/flipflopi-the-worlds-first-sailing-boat-made-entirely-from-plastic-waste/)
- [The Flipflopi Project: Mitigating Plastic Pollution through Heritage Boat Building](https://smepprogramme.org/project/the-flipflopi-project/)
- [A sailboat made from flip-flops tackles Africa's largest lake](https://www.unep.org/news-and-stories/story/sailboat-made-partially-flip-flops-takes-africas-biggest-lake)
- [Imagining Water 11: The Flipflopi Project](https://artistsandclimatechange.com/2018/07/23/imagining-water-11-the-flipflopi-project/)
## Books
- *Flipflopi: How a Boat Made from Flip-Flops Is Helping to Save the Ocean* by Linda R. Lodding & Dipesh Pabari ([Africa Access Review](https://africaaccessreview.org/2023/11/flipflopi-how-a-boat-made-from-flip-flops-is-helping-to-save-the-ocean/))
## Papers
- *Prevalence and characterisation of microfibres along the Kenyan and Tanzanian coast* ([Northumbria University](https://newsroom.northumbria.ac.uk/pressreleases/world-tour-for-model-boat-inspiring-citizen-science-against-environmental-pollution-3249917), [EurekAlert](https://www.eurekalert.org/news-releases/988003))
## YouTube
- [The Flipflopi Expedition: An Overview](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JcBajK5gjC0)
## Opensource Designs
- Build a 'Flipflopi' boat - [filtered] Academy
- [Flipflopi Boat Build Toolkit](https://www.theflipflopi.com/blog/launching-the-boat-build-toolkit)
## References

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---
title: Build easy-to-wash chicken coop from bottle caps
slug: build-easy-to-wash-chicken-coop-from-bottle-caps
description: Recycled plastic sheets are ideal for chicken coops due to their ease of cleaning and resistance to parasites like poultry red mites. Here is how ours was built: Download the plans and watch the stages in the accompanying video.
description: Recycled plastic sheets are an excellent choice for creating chicken coops, as they are easy to clean and less likely to harbor parasites such as poultry red mites. Let me tell you how we built ours!
You can download the plans we've made, watch the various stages in the Youtube video, and of course subscribe to my channel to find out about future projects!
tags: ["product","HDPE","sheetpress"]
category: Products
difficulty: Hard
time: 3-4 weeks
keywords: recycled plastic sheets, chicken coop plans, henhouse building video, sustainable chicken coop, DIY henhouse construction, bottle cap recycling, plastic sheet production, wooden structure plans, eco-friendly poultry house, chicken coop design
keywords:
location: Houyet, Belgium
---
# Build easy-to-wash chicken coop from bottle caps
![Build easy-to-wash chicken coop from bottle caps](20230522_140027-18b00b8c426.jpg)
Recycled plastic sheets are ideal for chicken coops due to their ease of cleaning and resistance to parasites like poultry red mites. Here is how ours was built: Download the plans and watch the stages in the accompanying video.
Recycled plastic sheets are an excellent choice for creating chicken coops, as they are easy to clean and less likely to harbor parasites such as poultry red mites. Let me tell you how we built ours!
You can download the plans we've made, watch the various stages in the Youtube video, and of course subscribe to my channel to find out about future projects!
User Location: Houyet, Belgium
## Steps
### Step 1: Watch that amazing Youtube video first !
In this video, I demonstrate the production stages of a chicken coop made from plastic sheets. Watching the video will provide a comprehensive overview, making the process easier to follow.
In this video, I show you all the production stages of this chicken coop made from recycled plastic sheets.
Watching the video first will give you a complete overview of what we're going to make, and make the rest easier!
Take this opportunity to subscribe to my channel if you like this type of content - your support helps me enormously!
### Step 2: Download the files provided above
These files contain the henhouse plans in both .PDF and .DXF formats, allowing you to view and edit them using open-source software like LibreCAD. The wooden frame is designed to be covered with panels measuring 39.4*39.4*0.4 inches (100x100x1 cm), compatible with the commonly used sheet press.
In these files, you will find the plans of the henhouse as we built it, in .PDF but also .DXF format so that you can view and modify them with an opensource program such as LibreCAD.
The wooden structure was designed to be covered with 100*100*1cm panels made with the most widely used version of the [filtered] sheetpress.
![librecad-18b242fed04.jpg](./librecad-18b242fed04.jpg)
### Step 3: Collect around 120 000 bottle caps
Collecting a substantial number of caps can be challenging. Here is my approach:
Collecting such a large quantity of caps can be a real challenge, so I'm going to tell you how I do it personally.
I work with an association that collects the caps from schools, stores, public places, etc. before sorting them by color. I pay for this collection and sorting service, as it saves me dozens of hours of work!
I collaborate with an organization that gathers caps from schools, stores, and public places and sorts them by color. I pay for this service to save time.
Try to find such associations in your neighborhood! In our area, many collect bottle caps and sell them to recycling companies to finance humanitarian activities: dogs for the blind, wheelchairs for the disabled, etc...
Seek out similar organizations in your area. Often, these groups collect bottle caps and sell them, using the proceeds to support charitable activities such as providing guide dogs for the blind or wheelchairs for the disabled.
For this project, we required 240 kilograms (approximately 530 pounds) of bottle caps.
For this project, we needed 240 kilos of bottle caps.
![souffleunpeu2-18b1eafc264.jpg](./souffleunpeu2-18b1eafc264.jpg)
@ -44,15 +48,15 @@ For this project, we required 240 kilograms (approximately 530 pounds) of bottle
### Step 4: Shred & wash your bottle caps
### Shredding
SHREDDING
I use a V4 pro shredder to process the caps four times until the shred meets my size requirements.
I use a V4 pro shredder to shred the caps 4 times, until I get the right size of shred for my needs.
### Washing and Drying
WASHING (and DRYING)
Washing is more effective post-grinding. I place shredded plastic in durable cotton canvas bags, securing them with reusable zip-ties. These are washed in domestic machines equipped with filtration systems to prevent microplastic release and water recovery systems to recycle water efficiently.
I find that washing is more effective when done after grinding, rather than before. So I put my shredded plastic in heavy-duty cotton canvas bags, which I seal carefully with reusable zip-ties. I then wash them in domestic washing machines, with a filtration and water recovery system. Filtration prevents the loss of microplastics into the environment, while water recovery enables the washing machines to operate in a closed cycle, reusing the same water many times over, for a multitude of washes, before being renewed.
Subsequently, I dry the shredded material in tumble dryers to ensure it is completely dry.
I then dry the bags of shredded material in tumble dryers (powered by solar panels) to obtain perfectly dry, moisture-free shredded material.
![20220912_130432 (3)-18b1eb620eb.jpg](./20220912_130432_3-18b1eb620eb.jpg)
@ -65,11 +69,13 @@ Subsequently, I dry the shredded material in tumble dryers to ensure it is compl
### Step 5: Create your sheets using the sheetpress
By following the previously explained method, you can produce approximately 6 to 8 sheets per day (2.5 to 3.5 square feet).
Using the method explained in a previous "How-To" ( ), you should be able to make between 6 and 8 sheets per day.
This project requires 24 panels, including 4 yellow ones for the nesting box.
For this project, we needed 24 panels, including 4 yellow ones for the nesting box.
Completion is achievable after 3 to 4 days of dedicated work.
So you could be finished after 3-4 intense days, good job!
(Don't mind the pink ones, they were for another project in our daughter's room!)
![bscap0030-18b1ec8f559.jpg](./bscap0030-18b1ec8f559.jpg)
@ -82,17 +88,16 @@ Completion is achievable after 3 to 4 days of dedicated work.
### Step 6: Build the wooden structure and the roof
### Construction Guide for Wooden Structure
Build the wooden structure following the plans provided in this “How-To”.
Build the wooden structure according to the provided plans.
Of course, you will have to adapt to your own location and your available materials.
Adapt the design to suit your location and materials.
In our case, we had Trespa panels in stock (from my partner's ordering error for a previous professional project) so we used them for the floor and ceiling.
If you don't want to buy Trespa panels, you can adapt the structure and also use recycled plastic panels instead.
We used Trespa panels, available from excess stock, for the floor and ceiling. Alternatively, consider using plastic panels.
The roof of the henhouse was insulated and then covered with corrugated iron sheets.
The roof is insulated and covered with corrugated iron sheets.
Plans include a separate storage area accessed from outside the main enclosure.
As you will see in the plans, we wanted to provide a small storage space next to the chickens' living room in order to be able to store equipment there. It is accessed from the outside and not the inside of the henhouse.
![20220727_171447-18b1ecd13d5.jpg](./20220727_171447-18b1ecd13d5.jpg)
@ -102,9 +107,10 @@ Plans include a separate storage area accessed from outside the main enclosure.
### Step 7: Cut and add your recycled plastic sheets
### Wall Cladding for Your Chicken Coop
It's time to dress the interior and exterior walls of your chicken coop!
Exercise caution when cutting panels; ensure the workspace permits the collection of any resulting plastic dust. Pre-drill holes to attach the panels to the wooden structure, and gather any plastic waste during this process.
Be very careful when cutting your panels, do it in a place that allows you to collect/vacuum up all the plastic dust created by the cuts, so that this plastic does not end up in the environment.
To attach the panels, you will need to pre-drill (recover any plastic waste that falls!) before screwing to the wooden structure.
![20220807_172729-18b1eef71b2.jpg](./20220807_172729-18b1eef71b2.jpg)
@ -117,7 +123,11 @@ Exercise caution when cutting panels; ensure the workspace permits the collectio
### Step 8: Allow space between your panels !
We did not allow space between the panels, leading to bulging in high heat. To prevent this, leave 0.2 in-0.4 in (0.5 cm-1 cm) between panels. Plan for seasonal temperature variations when constructing your henhouse, as they can affect panel expansion.
We made the "mistake" of not providing space between the panels, which does not allow them to expand properly when it is very hot, and some panels can end up a little bulging.
To avoid this, it can be good to allow 0.5cm-1cm of space between the panels.
Depending on the season in which you build your henhouse, and the temperature differences that you may have in your country (between summer and winter), you could notice big changes in the expansion of your panels, this is normal, but you must anticipate them during construction!
![begin-18b1eebc54f.jpg](./begin-18b1eebc54f.jpg)
@ -130,7 +140,11 @@ We did not allow space between the panels, leading to bulging in high heat. To p
### Step 9: Create your doors and windows
The doors and windows consist of a steel structure that we painted ourselves. Initially, we used putty to attach the panels to the steel frame, but it proved ineffective. Consequently, we switched to a mechanical fastening solution. We also installed metal mesh on the windows to prevent martens and rats from entering.
Our doors and windows have a steel structure, which has been painted (with the family!).
We first used putty to glue the panels to the steel structure, but it didn't work well.
We therefore opted for a mechanical solution.
Personally, we decided to add a metal mesh to the windows to prevent the intrusion of martens or rats.
![20221014_090849-18b1ef361a7.jpg](./20221014_090849-18b1ef361a7.jpg)
@ -140,7 +154,8 @@ The doors and windows consist of a steel structure that we painted ourselves. In
### Step 10: Now, the nests !
Build your nests by following the plans and adjusting them as needed. Feel free to choose any color you prefer.
Then build your nests, always using the plans and adapting them to your needs.
Be creative and don't be afraid to go for a different color!
![20221022_165351-18b1ef9963b.jpg](./20221022_165351-18b1ef9963b.jpg)
@ -153,7 +168,8 @@ Build your nests by following the plans and adjusting them as needed. Feel free
### Step 11: Add the last elements
If not yet completed, install the interior perch and the automatic door for the chickens (we used an Omlet brand door acquired second-hand). Adjust according to available materials.
If this is not yet done, add the interior perch, the automatic door for the chickens (we chose an Omlet brand door, which we bought second-hand).
Again, adapt to what you find or already have!
![20221022_165315-18b1efdf8c3.jpg](./20221022_165315-18b1efdf8c3.jpg)
@ -166,61 +182,11 @@ If not yet completed, install the interior perch and the automatic door for the
### Step 12: Time to celebrate !
Host a remarkable gathering with friends. If you construct a similar chicken coop, please share your photos.
Invite some chicks and have an eggs-traordinary party!
Please send me pictures of your creation if you decide to build a chicken coop similar to ours !
![celebration-18b1f13c990.jpg](./celebration-18b1f13c990.jpg)
## Resources
### Software
- [LibreCAD](https://librecad.org/) (for editing DXF plans)
- PDF viewer (for blueprint access)
### Hardware & Materials
- V4 Pro shredder (4-stage plastic grinding)
- Domestic washing machine with microplastic filtration
- Tumble dryer (for plastic shreds)
- Cotton canvas bags + reusable zip-ties (washing setup)
- Wooden frame materials, Trespa panels, corrugated iron sheets
### Power Tools
- Panel cutter (e.g., circular saw/jigsaw)
- Drill + bits (pre-drilling holes)
- Sander (optional edge smoothing)
- Screwdriver (panel attachment)
### Safety Equipment
- Safety goggles (plastic dust protection)
- Dust mask/respirator (inhaled particles)
- Work gloves (optional handling)
### Additional Tools
- Omlet automatic chicken door (second-hand)
- Steel structures + paint (door/window frames)
- Screws/nails (mechanical fastening)
- Water recovery system (washing efficiency)
- Excess stock materials (e.g., recycled panels)
## References
## Articles
- https://eartheasy.com/recycled-plastic-chicken-barn/
- https://eartheasy.com/recycled-plastic-chicken-coop-the-sonoma/
- https://www.thegardencoop.com/blog/chicken-coop-plastic-wrap-winter/
- https://www.homedepot.com/c/ah/how-to-build-a-chicken-coop/9ba683603be9fa5395fab9014cb61420
## YouTube
- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r8WtGTUX4uc
## Papers
- https://digitalcommons.calpoly.edu/cmsp/746/
## Opensource Designs
- https://community.preciousplastic.com/library/build-easy-to-wash-chicken-coop-from-bottle-caps
## References

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@ -1,51 +1,46 @@
---
title: Build your own filament cooling system
slug: build-your-own-filament-cooling-system-
description: # JARVIS Airpath Cooling System Assembly Guide
description: In this how to we will show you how you can assemble your JARVIS Airpath cooling system in 6 easy steps
## Contents
1. Airpath Components (PDF)
2. Airpath 3D Printed Parts (ZIP)
In tis folder you will find:
1. Airpath parts.(pdf)
2. Airpath 3D printed parts.(zip)
## Instructions
Assemble your JARVIS Airpath cooling system in six simple steps.
You can check out our JARVIS Airpath video here:
https://youtu.be/6Ae6oDKhqiE
For assistance, access our video tutorial:
[Watch Video](https://youtu.be/6Ae6oDKhqiE)
For further information, visit our website:
[Visit Qitech](https://www.qitech.de/en/industries)
Feel free to visit our website :)
https://www.qitech.de/en/industries
tags: ["extrusion","untagged","melting","product"]
category: Machines
difficulty: Easy
time: < 1 hour
keywords: JARVIS Airpath, cooling system assembly, assembly guide, Qitech, magnetic clips, gondolas, aluminum profiles, fan installation, control box, DC jack
keywords:
location: Darmstadt, Germany
---
# Build your own filament cooling system
![Build your own filament cooling system ](Screenshot_2023-06-14_162618-188ba4d4380.png)
# JARVIS Airpath Cooling System Assembly Guide
In this how to we will show you how you can assemble your JARVIS Airpath cooling system in 6 easy steps
## Contents
1. Airpath Components (PDF)
2. Airpath 3D Printed Parts (ZIP)
In tis folder you will find:
1. Airpath parts.(pdf)
2. Airpath 3D printed parts.(zip)
## Instructions
Assemble your JARVIS Airpath cooling system in six simple steps.
You can check out our JARVIS Airpath video here:
https://youtu.be/6Ae6oDKhqiE
For assistance, access our video tutorial:
[Watch Video](https://youtu.be/6Ae6oDKhqiE)
For further information, visit our website:
[Visit Qitech](https://www.qitech.de/en/industries)
Feel free to visit our website :)
https://www.qitech.de/en/industries
User Location: Darmstadt, Germany
## Steps
### Step 1: Preparation of the gondolas
First, prepare the four gondolas by inserting the included magnets into the upper holes. Ensure all magnets in the gondolas have the same polarity for proper interaction with the magnetic clips.
The clips contain two interior holes for magnets. Insert the magnets with the correct orientation to ensure they attract the gondolas.
First, prepare the 4 gondolas by pressing the included magnets into the upper holes. Later, the clips, which also carry magnets, will be attached to them. Make sure that all the magnets in the gondolas are oriented in the same polarity so that the magnet clips will be attracted to them later from the opposite polarity.
The clips have 2 holes on the inside for the magnets. Insert the magnets in the correct orientation so that the magnet clips are attracted to the gondolas.
![IMG_1250-188ba169e65.jpg](./IMG_1250-188ba169e65.jpg)
@ -58,9 +53,13 @@ The clips contain two interior holes for magnets. Insert the magnets with the co
### Step 2: Attachment of the gondolas to the aluminum profile
Attach the four gondolas to the aluminum profiles using 16 M5 x 8 screws and 16 T-nuts. You will need a 3 mm (0.12 in) Allen key.
Ensure the front side is visible and accessible; the aluminum profiles have a designated hole for this. Slide the T-nuts into the profiles, with the rounded side facing down. Secure the gondolas to the profiles with the screws, following the specified order. The outer gondolas should have their logos facing outwards, and the inner ones should show labeling. Make sure gondolas do not extend past the aluminum profiles—these should extend about 2 mm (0.08 in) outward.
Next, we will attach the 4 gondolas to the aluminum profiles. For this, you will need 16 T-nuts, 16 screws of size M5 x 8, both aluminum profiles, the 4 gondolas, and an Allen key of size 3.
Make sure that the front side is the one where the labeling and display are visible and accessible. On the aluminum profiles, there is a hole for the front side.
Slide the T-nuts into the aluminum profile. The rounded side should face downwards, while the flat side should face upwards. Attach the gondolas to the aluminum profiles using the screws. Pay attention to the order as shown in the illustration. The outer gondolas have a logo that faces outward, while the inner ones have labeling. Ensure that the gondolas do not extend beyond the aluminum profiles. The aluminum profiles should protrude about 2 mm outward.
![20230614_135644-188ba262af1.jpg](./20230614_135644-188ba262af1.jpg)
@ -73,7 +72,10 @@ Ensure the front side is visible and accessible; the aluminum profiles have a de
### Step 3: Insertion of fans
Insert the fans into the JARVIS Airpath, ensuring the cone tips face inward and the display cables are pulled through the aluminum profile (aluminium profile), ensuring cables do not impede fan rotation. Secure the grilles and fans onto the gondola.
Now you can flip the JARVIS Airpath over, as you need to screw in the fans here. Insert the fans into the system, making sure that the tips of the cones are facing inward and the cables for the display are pulled out through the hole in the aluminum profile. Ensure that the fans rotate without touching the cables. Screw the grilles and fans onto the gondola.
![20230614_154834-188ba3f57a3.jpg](./20230614_154834-188ba3f57a3.jpg)
@ -86,9 +88,10 @@ Insert the fans into the JARVIS Airpath, ensuring the cone tips face inward and
### Step 4: Attaching the support feet
To securely screw in the feet, you will need 4 T-nuts, 4 hard plastic washers, 4 rubber feet, 4 screws (M5 x 14 or 0.2 x 0.55 inches), and a 4 mm (0.16 inch) Allen key.
Place the JARVIS Airpath on the rubber feet. Position the hard plastic washers between the rubber feet and the aluminum profile. Screw two support feet into the aluminum profile.
To screw the feet securely, you will need 4 T-nuts, 4 hard plastic washers, 4 rubber feet, 4 screws in size M5 x 14, and an Allen key in size 4.
The JARVIS Airpath is placed on the rubber feet. The hard plastic washers are positioned between the rubber feet and the aluminum profile. Screw two support feet into the aluminum profile.
![20230614_140329-188ba37bc1d.jpg](./20230614_140329-188ba37bc1d.jpg)
@ -101,7 +104,13 @@ Place the JARVIS Airpath on the rubber feet. Position the hard plastic washers b
### Step 5: Attaching the control box
Attach the control box using four T-nuts and four M5 x 8 (5/16 in x 5/16 in) screws. Insert the T-nuts into the aluminum profile and secure the control box to the front. Ensure power cables are routed through the hole into the box.
Now you will attach the control box. For this, you will need 4 T-nuts and 4 screws in size M5 x 8.
Insert the T-nuts into the aluminum profile and screw the control box onto the front side. Make sure to route the power cables through the hole into the box.
![IMG_1247(1)-188ba3ce499.jpg](./IMG_12471-188ba3ce499.jpg)
@ -114,17 +123,18 @@ Attach the control box using four T-nuts and four M5 x 8 (5/16 in x 5/16 in) scr
### Step 6: Completion of the control box
You need the control cover, display box, DC jack, four set screws, an Allen wrench (2.5 mm/0.1 in), and a small screwdriver (0.35 mm/2.5 mm or 0.014 in/0.098 in).
Open the display box and remove the green start button.
You now need the control cover, the display box, the DC jack, 4 set screws, an Allen wrench size 2.5, and a small screwdriver size 0.35 / 2.5.
Attach the display to the control cover, ensuring the black border faces downward. Insert the fan control through the smaller hole and the green start button through the larger hole, securing it with a thin metal ring and nut.
Open the display box and remove the green start button from the palette.
Install the DC jack through the side hole of the control box and thread the cables into the box.
Now, attach the display to the control cover. The black border on the display should face downward. Insert the fan control through the smaller hole. Insert the green start button through the larger hole and place it back into the palette. On the inside, first secure the buttons with the thin metal ring, and then tighten the nut.
Screw the black cables into the "-" terminal and the red cables into the "+" terminal before closing the box.
Attach the DC jack through the side hole of the control box. Thread the cables through the hole into the box.
Use set screws to secure the control box to the display cover.
Before closing the box, screw the cables into the designated terminals. The black cables go into the "-" symbol, and the red cables go into the "+" marking.
Secure the control box to the display cover using the set screws.
![20230614_140842-188ba392e9a.jpg](./20230614_140842-188ba392e9a.jpg)
@ -136,32 +146,4 @@ Use set screws to secure the control box to the display cover.
![20230609_105029-188ba3b6389.jpg](./20230609_105029-188ba3b6389.jpg)
## Resources
## Tools
- 3 mm (0.12 in) Allen key [Source](https://youtu.be/6Ae6oDKhqiE)
- 4 mm (0.16 in) Allen key [Source](https://youtu.be/6Ae6oDKhqiE)
- 2.5 mm (0.1 in) Allen wrench [Source](https://youtu.be/6Ae6oDKhqiE)
- 0.35 mm/2.5 mm (0.014 in/0.098 in) screwdriver [Source](https://youtu.be/6Ae6oDKhqiE)
## Hardware
- Magnets (for gondolas/clips) [Source](https://youtu.be/6Ae6oDKhqiE)
- M5 x 8 screws (16x) + T-nuts (16x) [Source](https://youtu.be/6Ae6oDKhqiE)
- M5 x 14 screws (4x) + rubber feet (4x) [Source](https://youtu.be/6Ae6oDKhqiE)
- Control box + DC jack [Source](https://youtu.be/6Ae6oDKhqiE)
- Aluminum profiles + fans/grilles [Source](https://youtu.be/6Ae6oDKhqiE)
## Software
- Airpath Components PDF [Source](https://www.qitech.de/en/industries)
- Airpath 3D Printed Parts ZIP [Source](https://www.qitech.de/en/industries)
- Assembly video tutorial [Source](https://youtu.be/6Ae6oDKhqiE)
- Qitech support portal [Source](https://www.qitech.de/en/industries)
## References
## YouTube
- [JARVIS Airpath Assembly Tutorial](https://youtu.be/6Ae6oDKhqiE)
## Articles
- [Qitech Industries](https://www.qitech.de/en/industries)
## References

20
howtos/build-your-own-filament-cooling-system-/config.json
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"text": "\nNext, we will attach the 4 gondolas to the aluminum profiles. For this, you will need 16 T-nuts, 16 screws of size M5 x 8, both aluminum profiles, the 4 gondolas, and an Allen key of size 3.\n\n\nMake sure that the front side is the one where the labeling and display are visible and accessible. On the aluminum profiles, there is a hole for the front side.\n\nSlide the T-nuts into the aluminum profile. The rounded side should face downwards, while the flat side should face upwards. Attach the gondolas to the aluminum profiles using the screws. Pay attention to the order as shown in the illustration. The outer gondolas have a logo that faces outward, while the inner ones have labeling. Ensure that the gondolas do not extend beyond the aluminum profiles. The aluminum profiles should protrude about 2 mm outward.",
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"text": "Insert the fans into the JARVIS Airpath, ensuring the cone tips face inward and the display cables are pulled through the aluminum profile (aluminium profile), ensuring cables do not impede fan rotation. Secure the grilles and fans onto the gondola."
"text": "\nNow you can flip the JARVIS Airpath over, as you need to screw in the fans here. Insert the fans into the system, making sure that the tips of the cones are facing inward and the cables for the display are pulled out through the hole in the aluminum profile. Ensure that the fans rotate without touching the cables. Screw the grilles and fans onto the gondola.\n\n"
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"title": "Attaching the support feet"
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"text": "Attach the control box using four T-nuts and four M5 x 8 (5/16 in x 5/16 in) screws. Insert the T-nuts into the aluminum profile and secure the control box to the front. Ensure power cables are routed through the hole into the box.",
"text": "\nNow you will attach the control box. For this, you will need 4 T-nuts and 4 screws in size M5 x 8.\n\nInsert the T-nuts into the aluminum profile and screw the control box onto the front side. Make sure to route the power cables through the hole into the box.\n\n\n",
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{
"text": "You need the control cover, display box, DC jack, four set screws, an Allen wrench (2.5 mm/0.1 in), and a small screwdriver (0.35 mm/2.5 mm or 0.014 in/0.098 in).\n\nOpen the display box and remove the green start button.\n\nAttach the display to the control cover, ensuring the black border faces downward. Insert the fan control through the smaller hole and the green start button through the larger hole, securing it with a thin metal ring and nut.\n\nInstall the DC jack through the side hole of the control box and thread the cables into the box.\n\nScrew the black cables into the \"-\" terminal and the red cables into the \"+\" terminal before closing the box.\n\nUse set screws to secure the control box to the display cover.",
"text": "\nYou now need the control cover, the display box, the DC jack, 4 set screws, an Allen wrench size 2.5, and a small screwdriver size 0.35 / 2.5.\n\nOpen the display box and remove the green start button from the palette.\n\nNow, attach the display to the control cover. The black border on the display should face downward. Insert the fan control through the smaller hole. Insert the green start button through the larger hole and place it back into the palette. On the inside, first secure the buttons with the thin metal ring, and then tighten the nut.\n\nAttach the DC jack through the side hole of the control box. Thread the cables through the hole into the box.\n\nBefore closing the box, screw the cables into the designated terminals. The black cables go into the \"-\" symbol, and the red cables go into the \"+\" marking.\n\nSecure the control box to the display cover using the set screws. ",
"images": [
{
"size": 63019,
@ -485,9 +485,5 @@
"images": []
}
},
"content": "# JARVIS Airpath Cooling System Assembly Guide\n\n## Contents\n1. Airpath Components (PDF)\n2. Airpath 3D Printed Parts (ZIP)\n\n## Instructions\nAssemble your JARVIS Airpath cooling system in six simple steps. \n\nFor assistance, access our video tutorial:\n[Watch Video](https://youtu.be/6Ae6oDKhqiE)\n\nFor further information, visit our website: \n[Visit Qitech](https://www.qitech.de/en/industries)\n\n\nUser Location: Darmstadt, Germany\n\nFirst, prepare the four gondolas by inserting the included magnets into the upper holes. Ensure all magnets in the gondolas have the same polarity for proper interaction with the magnetic clips.\n\nThe clips contain two interior holes for magnets. Insert the magnets with the correct orientation to ensure they attract the gondolas.\n\nAttach the four gondolas to the aluminum profiles using 16 M5 x 8 screws and 16 T-nuts. You will need a 3 mm (0.12 in) Allen key.\n\nEnsure the front side is visible and accessible; the aluminum profiles have a designated hole for this. Slide the T-nuts into the profiles, with the rounded side facing down. Secure the gondolas to the profiles with the screws, following the specified order. The outer gondolas should have their logos facing outwards, and the inner ones should show labeling. Make sure gondolas do not extend past the aluminum profiles—these should extend about 2 mm (0.08 in) outward.\n\nInsert the fans into the JARVIS Airpath, ensuring the cone tips face inward and the display cables are pulled through the aluminum profile (aluminium profile), ensuring cables do not impede fan rotation. Secure the grilles and fans onto the gondola.\n\nTo securely screw in the feet, you will need 4 T-nuts, 4 hard plastic washers, 4 rubber feet, 4 screws (M5 x 14 or 0.2 x 0.55 inches), and a 4 mm (0.16 inch) Allen key.\n\nPlace the JARVIS Airpath on the rubber feet. Position the hard plastic washers between the rubber feet and the aluminum profile. Screw two support feet into the aluminum profile.\n\nAttach the control box using four T-nuts and four M5 x 8 (5/16 in x 5/16 in) screws. Insert the T-nuts into the aluminum profile and secure the control box to the front. Ensure power cables are routed through the hole into the box.\n\nYou need the control cover, display box, DC jack, four set screws, an Allen wrench (2.5 mm/0.1 in), and a small screwdriver (0.35 mm/2.5 mm or 0.014 in/0.098 in).\n\nOpen the display box and remove the green start button.\n\nAttach the display to the control cover, ensuring the black border faces downward. Insert the fan control through the smaller hole and the green start button through the larger hole, securing it with a thin metal ring and nut.\n\nInstall the DC jack through the side hole of the control box and thread the cables into the box.\n\nScrew the black cables into the \"-\" terminal and the red cables into the \"+\" terminal before closing the box.\n\nUse set screws to secure the control box to the display cover.",
"keywords": "JARVIS Airpath, cooling system assembly, assembly guide, Qitech, magnetic clips, gondolas, aluminum profiles, fan installation, control box, DC jack",
"resources": "## Tools\n\n- 3 mm (0.12 in) Allen key [Source](https://youtu.be/6Ae6oDKhqiE)\n- 4 mm (0.16 in) Allen key [Source](https://youtu.be/6Ae6oDKhqiE)\n- 2.5 mm (0.1 in) Allen wrench [Source](https://youtu.be/6Ae6oDKhqiE)\n- 0.35 mm/2.5 mm (0.014 in/0.098 in) screwdriver [Source](https://youtu.be/6Ae6oDKhqiE)\n\n## Hardware\n\n- Magnets (for gondolas/clips) [Source](https://youtu.be/6Ae6oDKhqiE)\n- M5 x 8 screws (16x) + T-nuts (16x) [Source](https://youtu.be/6Ae6oDKhqiE)\n- M5 x 14 screws (4x) + rubber feet (4x) [Source](https://youtu.be/6Ae6oDKhqiE)\n- Control box + DC jack [Source](https://youtu.be/6Ae6oDKhqiE)\n- Aluminum profiles + fans/grilles [Source](https://youtu.be/6Ae6oDKhqiE)\n\n## Software\n\n- Airpath Components PDF [Source](https://www.qitech.de/en/industries)\n- Airpath 3D Printed Parts ZIP [Source](https://www.qitech.de/en/industries)\n- Assembly video tutorial [Source](https://youtu.be/6Ae6oDKhqiE)\n- Qitech support portal [Source](https://www.qitech.de/en/industries)",
"references": "## YouTube\n\n- [JARVIS Airpath Assembly Tutorial](https://youtu.be/6Ae6oDKhqiE)\n\n## Articles\n\n- [Qitech Industries](https://www.qitech.de/en/industries)",
"brief": "Assemble the JARVIS Airpath Cooling System effortlessly in six steps with our detailed guide. Ensure proper magnet alignment for optimal performance."
"content": "In this how to we will show you how you can assemble your JARVIS Airpath cooling system in 6 easy steps\n\nIn tis folder you will find:\n1. Airpath parts.(pdf)\n2. Airpath 3D printed parts.(zip)\n\nYou can check out our JARVIS Airpath video here:\nhttps://youtu.be/6Ae6oDKhqiE\n\nFeel free to visit our website :)\nhttps://www.qitech.de/en/industries\n\n\nUser Location: Darmstadt, Germany\n\n\nFirst, prepare the 4 gondolas by pressing the included magnets into the upper holes. Later, the clips, which also carry magnets, will be attached to them. Make sure that all the magnets in the gondolas are oriented in the same polarity so that the magnet clips will be attracted to them later from the opposite polarity.\n\nThe clips have 2 holes on the inside for the magnets. Insert the magnets in the correct orientation so that the magnet clips are attracted to the gondolas. \n\n\nNext, we will attach the 4 gondolas to the aluminum profiles. For this, you will need 16 T-nuts, 16 screws of size M5 x 8, both aluminum profiles, the 4 gondolas, and an Allen key of size 3.\n\n\nMake sure that the front side is the one where the labeling and display are visible and accessible. On the aluminum profiles, there is a hole for the front side.\n\nSlide the T-nuts into the aluminum profile. The rounded side should face downwards, while the flat side should face upwards. Attach the gondolas to the aluminum profiles using the screws. Pay attention to the order as shown in the illustration. The outer gondolas have a logo that faces outward, while the inner ones have labeling. Ensure that the gondolas do not extend beyond the aluminum profiles. The aluminum profiles should protrude about 2 mm outward.\n\n\nNow you can flip the JARVIS Airpath over, as you need to screw in the fans here. Insert the fans into the system, making sure that the tips of the cones are facing inward and the cables for the display are pulled out through the hole in the aluminum profile. Ensure that the fans rotate without touching the cables. Screw the grilles and fans onto the gondola.\n\n\n\n\nTo screw the feet securely, you will need 4 T-nuts, 4 hard plastic washers, 4 rubber feet, 4 screws in size M5 x 14, and an Allen key in size 4.\n\nThe JARVIS Airpath is placed on the rubber feet. The hard plastic washers are positioned between the rubber feet and the aluminum profile. Screw two support feet into the aluminum profile. \n\n\nNow you will attach the control box. For this, you will need 4 T-nuts and 4 screws in size M5 x 8.\n\nInsert the T-nuts into the aluminum profile and screw the control box onto the front side. Make sure to route the power cables through the hole into the box.\n\n\n\n\n\nYou now need the control cover, the display box, the DC jack, 4 set screws, an Allen wrench size 2.5, and a small screwdriver size 0.35 / 2.5.\n\nOpen the display box and remove the green start button from the palette.\n\nNow, attach the display to the control cover. The black border on the display should face downward. Insert the fan control through the smaller hole. Insert the green start button through the larger hole and place it back into the palette. On the inside, first secure the buttons with the thin metal ring, and then tighten the nut.\n\nAttach the DC jack through the side hole of the control box. Thread the cables through the hole into the box.\n\nBefore closing the box, screw the cables into the designated terminals. The black cables go into the \"-\" symbol, and the red cables go into the \"+\" marking.\n\nSecure the control box to the display cover using the set screws. "
}

110
howtos/clothes-hanger-mould-25116/README.md
View File

@ -1,23 +1,23 @@
---
title: Clothes Hanger Mould
slug: clothes-hanger-mould-25116
description: This is a CNC machined mold. Locate a suitable CNC provider and get ready to produce numerous hangers.
description: This one is a CNC machined mould, so find your favorite CNC provider and prepare to inject lots of hangers!
tags: ["PP","HDPE","LDPE","mould","PS","injection"]
category: Moulds
difficulty: Hard
time: 1-2 weeks
keywords: CNC machining, mold fabrication, aluminum blocks, CNC provider, Bogota CNC services, flange connection guide, Solidworks mold design, nozzle customization, acid etching process, hanger production.
keywords:
location: Bogota, Colombia
---
# Clothes Hanger Mould
![Clothes Hanger Mould](5b-18c32101a6f.jpg)
This is a CNC machined mold. Locate a suitable CNC provider and get ready to produce numerous hangers.
This one is a CNC machined mould, so find your favorite CNC provider and prepare to inject lots of hangers!
User Location: Bogota, Colombia
## Steps
### Step 1: Download the files
Into the files, you will find:
Into the files you'll find:
- General drawings
- .IGES files
@ -36,25 +36,23 @@ Into the files, you will find:
### Step 2: Machine your mould
For the mold, two aluminum blocks measuring 430mm by 255mm by 25mm (16.93in by 10.04in by 0.98in) are required.
For the mould you will need two aluminum blocks of 430mm by 255mm by 25mm.
Contact a CNC machinist to fabricate the design files.
Find your CNC favorite machinist and send them the files.
You can opt to include a cutout for a logo or keep it flat (both options are available for download).
You can choose to make it with the hole to add your logo or you can leave it flat (both files are in the download)
For customization, modify the dimensions or other design aspects using the editable software file. Please share any innovations.
If you want to go further, you can change the dimentions or any other part of the design with the editable SW file. Don't forget to share all the new ideas!
### Step 3: Select the nozzle
### Nozzle and Flange Connection Guide
According to your machine nozzle, select the type of flange you will use to connect the mould.
Select the appropriate flange for your machine nozzle to connect it to the mold.
For a conical nozzle, it is a flat 6mm flange with a bevel to recieve the nozzle. With slots to stay aligned with the screw heads. It is not fixed to the mold, only pressed with the jack between the mold and the nozzle.
- **Conical Nozzle**: Use a flat 0.24-inch (6mm) flange with a bevel to receive the nozzle. Ensure it aligns with the screw heads through slots. It is not attached to the mold but pressed with a jack between the mold and nozzle.
For a screw nozzle, you have to weld the pipe connector to the flange and fix the flange to the mold with the closing screws.
- **Screw Nozzle**: Weld the pipe connector to the flange and secure the flange to the mold using closing screws.
Adjust the design as necessary to suit your requirements.
Feel free to addapt the design to your needs or propose a better solution :)
![conic-18c325bb51e.png](./conic-18c325bb51e.png)
@ -64,11 +62,11 @@ Adjust the design as necessary to suit your requirements.
### Step 4: Add the logo
If you decide to include logos in the mold, add the engraved sheet.
If you choosed to make the mold with logos, add the engraved sheet to the mould.
In this example, a metal sheet is engraved using acid etching, a process used in printing.
This example is a metal sheet engraved by acid metal etching. A process commonly used in the printing industry.
Trim and file the sheet to its final size, then fit it into the hole.
Cut and file the sheet to it's final size and embed it inside the hole.
![IMG_20231126_165118811-18c328e0186.jpg](./IMG_20231126_165118811-18c328e0186.jpg)
@ -81,9 +79,9 @@ Trim and file the sheet to its final size, then fit it into the hole.
### Step 5: Inject your hangers!
Heat the machine, insert the plastic, and inject to create your hangers.
Heat up your machine, add the plastic in the color mixture you love and inject your hangers!
The final weight is approximately 81 grams (2.86 ounces).
The final wheight is around 81 grams.
![aaa-18c3299769c.jpg](./aaa-18c3299769c.jpg)
@ -95,76 +93,4 @@ The final weight is approximately 81 grams (2.86 ounces).
![IMG_20231126_172100313-18c3293aad6.jpg](./IMG_20231126_172100313-18c3293aad6.jpg)
## Resources
To facilitate the CNC mold production and injection molding process described, here are the essential components and resources:
### Tools & Machinery
- CNC machining services ([Thomasnet Directory](https://www.thomasnet.com/products/cnc-machining-95380005-1.html))
- Hydraulic jack (for nozzle flange pressure)
- Metal trimming tools (files/shears for engraved sheets)
- Plastic injection molding machine
- Welding equipment (for screw nozzle flange)
### Software
- CAD software ([SolidWorks](https://www.solidworks.com))
- File-compatible viewers for IGES/STEP/Parasolid (e.g., [AutoCAD](https://www.autodesk.com))
- Vector graphic software for logos ([Adobe Illustrator](https://www.adobe.com))
### Hardware
- Aluminum blocks (430×255×25mm / 16.93×10.04×0.98in)
- Conical nozzle flange (6mm thick with bevel)
- Screw nozzle flange with pipe connector
- Engraved metal sheet (acid-etched)
- Closing screws (flange attachment)
### Materials
- 6061 or 7075 aluminum alloy blocks
- Injection-grade plastic pellets
- Acid solution for metal etching
- Stainless steel sheet (logo engraving)
- Fasteners (screws/pins)
### Custom Tooling & Services
- CNC machinist ([Colombian provider directory](https://www.alibaba.com/co/cnc-machining-services))
- Acid etching service (~~[Local print shops](https://www.hubs.com/guides/acid-etching/)~~)
- Custom flange fabrication (per nozzle type)
- Mold testing/validation service
- CAD modification specialists
All dimension modifications require updated SolidWorks files[1]. For Bogotá-specific machining options, consider industrial zones like Zona Franca de Bogotá[3]. Ensure aluminum blocks meet MIL-A-22771 standards for injection molds[2].
## References
## References
### Articles
- [CNC machines for efficiency in mold manufacturing - Thriam](https://thriam.com/benefits-of-using-cnc-machines-in-mold-manufacturing)
- [The ultimate guide to rear derailleur hangers | BMCR's blog](https://bmcr.com.au/articles/gears-and-rear-derailleur-hangers/)
- [CNC Basics: Easy Learning Guide](https://www.cnccookbook.com/learn-cnc-basics-tutorial/)
- [Helpful Injection Molding Design Guidelines | GrabCAD Tutorials](https://grabcad.com/tutorials/helpful-injection-molding-design-guidelines)
- [What are the CNC Techniques in Mold Making? - JTR China](https://www.jtrmachine.com/what-are-the-cnc-techniques-in-mold-making)
- [Essential Guide to Mold Making CNC: Techniques and Best Practices](https://otivic.com/mold-making-cnc/)
### Books
- ~~[CNC Handbook | McGraw-Hill Education](https://www.accessengineeringlibrary.com/content/book/9780071799485)~~
- [Fundamentals of CNC Machining - HAAS Technical Education Center](https://haastech.tamu.edu/wp-content/uploads/sites/5/2016/05/Autodesk_CNCBOOK.pdf)
- [The Homebrew Industrial Revolution](https://apw.org.nz/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/HomeBrewRevolution_Carson.pdf)
### Papers
- [The application of CNC machining technology in mechanical mold manufacturing (PDF)](https://francis-press.com/uploads/papers/I7g2oo6Yab8ZzBwUrlFqm4D1tMGRF4dXAhrYu2Xe.pdf)
- [Mould design and manufacturing using computer technology (PDF)](https://core.ac.uk/download/pdf/148644219.pdf)
### YouTube
- [Practical CAD Techniques for Composite Pattern/Mould Design](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dDqTGr8NW7A)
- [How Wood Skateboard Molds are Made (CNC)](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-zVujT_tuKU)
- [Beginner To Advanced — How To Create a Mold— Part 1](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_hgmwhde1So)
### Open-source Designs
- [Open Source Skateboard Mold - Good Roads Collective](https://www.goodroadscollective.com/open-source-skateboard-mold)
## References

18
howtos/clothes-hanger-mould-25116/config.json
View File

@ -47,17 +47,17 @@
],
"_animationKey": "unique1",
"title": "Download the files",
"text": "Into the files, you will find:\n\n- General drawings\n- .IGES files\n- .STEP files\n- Parasolid files\n- Solidworks editable file"
"text": "Into the files you'll find:\n\n- General drawings\n- .IGES files\n- .STEP files\n- Parasolid files\n- Solidworks editable file"
},
{
"text": "For the mold, two aluminum blocks measuring 430mm by 255mm by 25mm (16.93in by 10.04in by 0.98in) are required.\n\nContact a CNC machinist to fabricate the design files.\n\nYou can opt to include a cutout for a logo or keep it flat (both options are available for download).\n\nFor customization, modify the dimensions or other design aspects using the editable software file. Please share any innovations.",
"text": "For the mould you will need two aluminum blocks of 430mm by 255mm by 25mm.\n\nFind your CNC favorite machinist and send them the files.\n\nYou can choose to make it with the hole to add your logo or you can leave it flat (both files are in the download)\n\nIf you want to go further, you can change the dimentions or any other part of the design with the editable SW file. Don't forget to share all the new ideas!",
"_animationKey": "unique3",
"title": "Machine your mould",
"videoUrl": "https://youtu.be/BDUia3cVIVw",
"images": []
},
{
"text": "### Nozzle and Flange Connection Guide\n\nSelect the appropriate flange for your machine nozzle to connect it to the mold.\n\n- **Conical Nozzle**: Use a flat 0.24-inch (6mm) flange with a bevel to receive the nozzle. Ensure it aligns with the screw heads through slots. It is not attached to the mold but pressed with a jack between the mold and nozzle.\n\n- **Screw Nozzle**: Weld the pipe connector to the flange and secure the flange to the mold using closing screws. \n\nAdjust the design as necessary to suit your requirements.",
"text": "According to your machine nozzle, select the type of flange you will use to connect the mould.\n\nFor a conical nozzle, it is a flat 6mm flange with a bevel to recieve the nozzle. With slots to stay aligned with the screw heads. It is not fixed to the mold, only pressed with the jack between the mold and the nozzle.\n\nFor a screw nozzle, you have to weld the pipe connector to the flange and fix the flange to the mold with the closing screws.\n\nFeel free to addapt the design to your needs or propose a better solution :)",
"title": "Select the nozzle",
"_animationKey": "unique2",
"images": [
@ -89,7 +89,7 @@
},
{
"_animationKey": "unique3ujspa",
"text": "If you decide to include logos in the mold, add the engraved sheet.\n\nIn this example, a metal sheet is engraved using acid etching, a process used in printing.\n\nTrim and file the sheet to its final size, then fit it into the hole.",
"text": "If you choosed to make the mold with logos, add the engraved sheet to the mould.\n\nThis example is a metal sheet engraved by acid metal etching. A process commonly used in the printing industry.\n\nCut and file the sheet to it's final size and embed it inside the hole.",
"title": "Add the logo",
"images": [
{
@ -131,7 +131,7 @@
]
},
{
"text": "Heat the machine, insert the plastic, and inject to create your hangers.\n\nThe final weight is approximately 81 grams (2.86 ounces).",
"text": "Heat up your machine, add the plastic in the color mixture you love and inject your hangers!\n\nThe final wheight is around 81 grams.",
"title": "Inject your hangers!",
"_animationKey": "unique0xshfq",
"images": [
@ -195,7 +195,7 @@
],
"difficulty_level": "Hard",
"_createdBy": "el-tornillo-taller",
"description": "This is a CNC machined mold. Locate a suitable CNC provider and get ready to produce numerous hangers.",
"description": "This one is a CNC machined mould, so find your favorite CNC provider and prepare to inject lots of hangers!",
"total_downloads": 6,
"_id": "oVFPXBsPBChYToZlpIb2",
"_modified": "2024-02-11T13:47:01.520Z",
@ -388,9 +388,5 @@
"urls": []
}
},
"content": "This is a CNC machined mold. Locate a suitable CNC provider and get ready to produce numerous hangers.\n\n\nUser Location: Bogota, Colombia\n\nInto the files, you will find:\n\n- General drawings\n- .IGES files\n- .STEP files\n- Parasolid files\n- Solidworks editable file\n\nFor the mold, two aluminum blocks measuring 430mm by 255mm by 25mm (16.93in by 10.04in by 0.98in) are required.\n\nContact a CNC machinist to fabricate the design files.\n\nYou can opt to include a cutout for a logo or keep it flat (both options are available for download).\n\nFor customization, modify the dimensions or other design aspects using the editable software file. Please share any innovations.\n\n### Nozzle and Flange Connection Guide\n\nSelect the appropriate flange for your machine nozzle to connect it to the mold.\n\n- **Conical Nozzle**: Use a flat 0.24-inch (6mm) flange with a bevel to receive the nozzle. Ensure it aligns with the screw heads through slots. It is not attached to the mold but pressed with a jack between the mold and nozzle.\n\n- **Screw Nozzle**: Weld the pipe connector to the flange and secure the flange to the mold using closing screws. \n\nAdjust the design as necessary to suit your requirements.\n\nIf you decide to include logos in the mold, add the engraved sheet.\n\nIn this example, a metal sheet is engraved using acid etching, a process used in printing.\n\nTrim and file the sheet to its final size, then fit it into the hole.\n\nHeat the machine, insert the plastic, and inject to create your hangers.\n\nThe final weight is approximately 81 grams (2.86 ounces).",
"keywords": "CNC machining, mold fabrication, aluminum blocks, CNC provider, Bogota CNC services, flange connection guide, Solidworks mold design, nozzle customization, acid etching process, hanger production.",
"resources": "To facilitate the CNC mold production and injection molding process described, here are the essential components and resources:\n\n### Tools & Machinery\n\n- CNC machining services ([Thomasnet Directory](https://www.thomasnet.com/products/cnc-machining-95380005-1.html))\n- Hydraulic jack (for nozzle flange pressure)\n- Metal trimming tools (files/shears for engraved sheets)\n- Plastic injection molding machine\n- Welding equipment (for screw nozzle flange)\n\n### Software\n\n- CAD software ([SolidWorks](https://www.solidworks.com))\n- File-compatible viewers for IGES/STEP/Parasolid (e.g., [AutoCAD](https://www.autodesk.com))\n- Vector graphic software for logos ([Adobe Illustrator](https://www.adobe.com))\n\n### Hardware\n\n- Aluminum blocks (430×255×25mm / 16.93×10.04×0.98in)\n- Conical nozzle flange (6mm thick with bevel)\n- Screw nozzle flange with pipe connector\n- Engraved metal sheet (acid-etched)\n- Closing screws (flange attachment)\n\n### Materials\n\n- 6061 or 7075 aluminum alloy blocks\n- Injection-grade plastic pellets\n- Acid solution for metal etching\n- Stainless steel sheet (logo engraving)\n- Fasteners (screws/pins)\n\n### Custom Tooling & Services\n\n- CNC machinist ([Colombian provider directory](https://www.alibaba.com/co/cnc-machining-services))\n- Acid etching service (~~[Local print shops](https://www.hubs.com/guides/acid-etching/)~~)\n- Custom flange fabrication (per nozzle type)\n- Mold testing/validation service\n- CAD modification specialists\n\nAll dimension modifications require updated SolidWorks files[1]. For Bogotá-specific machining options, consider industrial zones like Zona Franca de Bogotá[3]. Ensure aluminum blocks meet MIL-A-22771 standards for injection molds[2].",
"references": "## References\n\n### Articles\n\n- [CNC machines for efficiency in mold manufacturing - Thriam](https://thriam.com/benefits-of-using-cnc-machines-in-mold-manufacturing)\n- [The ultimate guide to rear derailleur hangers | BMCR's blog](https://bmcr.com.au/articles/gears-and-rear-derailleur-hangers/)\n- [CNC Basics: Easy Learning Guide](https://www.cnccookbook.com/learn-cnc-basics-tutorial/)\n- [Helpful Injection Molding Design Guidelines | GrabCAD Tutorials](https://grabcad.com/tutorials/helpful-injection-molding-design-guidelines)\n- [What are the CNC Techniques in Mold Making? - JTR China](https://www.jtrmachine.com/what-are-the-cnc-techniques-in-mold-making)\n- [Essential Guide to Mold Making CNC: Techniques and Best Practices](https://otivic.com/mold-making-cnc/)\n\n### Books\n\n- ~~[CNC Handbook | McGraw-Hill Education](https://www.accessengineeringlibrary.com/content/book/9780071799485)~~\n- [Fundamentals of CNC Machining - HAAS Technical Education Center](https://haastech.tamu.edu/wp-content/uploads/sites/5/2016/05/Autodesk_CNCBOOK.pdf)\n- [The Homebrew Industrial Revolution](https://apw.org.nz/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/HomeBrewRevolution_Carson.pdf)\n\n### Papers\n\n- [The application of CNC machining technology in mechanical mold manufacturing (PDF)](https://francis-press.com/uploads/papers/I7g2oo6Yab8ZzBwUrlFqm4D1tMGRF4dXAhrYu2Xe.pdf)\n- [Mould design and manufacturing using computer technology (PDF)](https://core.ac.uk/download/pdf/148644219.pdf)\n\n### YouTube\n\n- [Practical CAD Techniques for Composite Pattern/Mould Design](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dDqTGr8NW7A)\n- [How Wood Skateboard Molds are Made (CNC)](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-zVujT_tuKU)\n- [Beginner To Advanced — How To Create a Mold— Part 1](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_hgmwhde1So)\n\n### Open-source Designs\n\n- [Open Source Skateboard Mold - Good Roads Collective](https://www.goodroadscollective.com/open-source-skateboard-mold)",
"brief": "Find CNC machined mold providers to produce hangers in Bogota, Colombia. Customize your mold with design files and machining options for optimal results."
"content": "This one is a CNC machined mould, so find your favorite CNC provider and prepare to inject lots of hangers!\n\n\nUser Location: Bogota, Colombia\n\nInto the files you'll find:\n\n- General drawings\n- .IGES files\n- .STEP files\n- Parasolid files\n- Solidworks editable file\n\nFor the mould you will need two aluminum blocks of 430mm by 255mm by 25mm.\n\nFind your CNC favorite machinist and send them the files.\n\nYou can choose to make it with the hole to add your logo or you can leave it flat (both files are in the download)\n\nIf you want to go further, you can change the dimentions or any other part of the design with the editable SW file. Don't forget to share all the new ideas!\n\nAccording to your machine nozzle, select the type of flange you will use to connect the mould.\n\nFor a conical nozzle, it is a flat 6mm flange with a bevel to recieve the nozzle. With slots to stay aligned with the screw heads. It is not fixed to the mold, only pressed with the jack between the mold and the nozzle.\n\nFor a screw nozzle, you have to weld the pipe connector to the flange and fix the flange to the mold with the closing screws.\n\nFeel free to addapt the design to your needs or propose a better solution :)\n\nIf you choosed to make the mold with logos, add the engraved sheet to the mould.\n\nThis example is a metal sheet engraved by acid metal etching. A process commonly used in the printing industry.\n\nCut and file the sheet to it's final size and embed it inside the hole.\n\nHeat up your machine, add the plastic in the color mixture you love and inject your hangers!\n\nThe final wheight is around 81 grams."
}

80
howtos/cnc-plastic-sheets-into-products/README.md
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@ -1,34 +1,32 @@
---
title: CNC plastic sheets into products
slug: cnc-plastic-sheets-into-products
description: This tutorial outlines the process of cutting HDPE sheets with an X-Carve CNC machine.
description: In this how to, I will show you our process to cut HDPE Sheets using a X-Carve CNC.
Watch the full video in Spanish with subtitles: [YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4LrrFz802To)
Here is the full video in spanish with subtitles https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4LrrFz802To
tags: ["HDPE"]
category: Guides
difficulty: Medium
time: < 5 hours
keywords: HDPE cutting, X-Carve CNC, CNC machine tutorial, Easel CAM software, vector graphics Inkscape, CNC Router HDPE, Mexican CNC tutorial, HDPE engraving, CNC leveling, CNC cutting speed
keywords:
location: Mexico City, Mexico
---
# CNC plastic sheets into products
![CNC plastic sheets into products](Copy_of_ComoCortarPlasticoConCNC_1.png)
This tutorial outlines the process of cutting HDPE sheets with an X-Carve CNC machine.
In this how to, I will show you our process to cut HDPE Sheets using a X-Carve CNC.
Watch the full video in Spanish with subtitles: [YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4LrrFz802To)
Here is the full video in spanish with subtitles https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4LrrFz802To
User Location: Mexico City, Mexico
## Steps
### Step 1: Meassure the plastic sheet
### Measurement and Setup
For this step we need to meassure our plastic sheet: Height, Width and Thickness. Our X-Carve machine works with the CAM Software EASEL, for me, the easiest software for CNC milling out there.
The cool thing about Easel (<a class="text-orange-600 underline" href="https://easel.inventables.com/)" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">easel.inventables.com: easel.inventables.com/)</a> is that you can "simulate" you actual material and THEY EVEN HAVE HDPE 2-Colors in their cutting material lists!!
Measure the plastic sheet's height, width, and thickness. The X-Carve CNC machine uses the Easel CAM software, which allows simulation of materials, including HDPE 2-Colors.
For reference:
- Height: ___ meters (___ inches)
- Width: ___ meters (___ inches)
- Thickness: ___ millimeters (___ inches)
![1.jpg](./1.jpg)
@ -38,16 +36,17 @@ For reference:
### Step 2: Secure sheet
Secure the sheet to the table using the CNC clamps from the X-Carve.
Using the CNC clamps from the X-Carve, secure the sheet to the table,
![3.jpg](./3.jpg)
### Step 3: Choosing a file to cut
Proceed to a vector graphics editor like Inkscape to create or download a vector file from sites such as [The Noun Project](https://thenounproject.com).
Now we go to our illustrator, such as Inkscape to design a vector file or download and open source one frome <a class="text-orange-600 underline" href="https://thenounproject.com/." target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">thenounproject.com: thenounproject.com</a>
We download the SVG file, which is an open source vector format and import it to Easel.
Download the SVG file, an open-source vector format, and import it into Easel.
![4.jpg](./4.jpg)
@ -57,12 +56,13 @@ Download the SVG file, an open-source vector format, and import it into Easel.
### Step 4: Follow the cutting Wizzard
With the file ready, select the desired carving width and initiate the cutting process:
Now with the file we can choose the width we want to carve/cut and then we go to cut and start the wizzard:
- We check that the sheet is fixed.
- We also specify the cutting bit, we are using a 1/8 flat flute bit.
- We tell the machine where the coordinate 0-0 is, which we always choose as the down left corner.
- We raise the bit, turn on the CNC Router!!!
- Ensure the sheet is secured.
- Specify the cutting bit, such as a 1/8 inch (3.175 mm) flat flute bit.
- Set the machine’s coordinate origin at the lower-left corner.
- Raise the bit and activate the CNC Router.
AND PUM THE MAGIC BEGINS!!
![6.jpg](./6.jpg)
@ -75,11 +75,12 @@ With the file ready, select the desired carving width and initiate the cutting p
### Step 5: Cutting HDPE vs other material
**CNC Processing of Various Materials**
Normaly we cut wood, acrylic and aluminum in the CNC. Moving to plastic wasn't hard at all, it's impressing how easy the CNC Router
cuts through HDPE. It's quicker than cutting wood and 10 times than aluminum.
Typically, we cut wood, acrylic, and aluminum using the CNC. Transitioning to plastic, specifically HDPE, proved uncomplicated. The CNC Router handles HDPE with ease, outpacing wood and vastly surpassing aluminum in speed.
The main problem we have with the HDPE sheets is that we don't always have even surfaces, because of our sheet making process, resulting in uneven cuts and engravings.
Our primary challenge with HDPE sheets arises from uneven surfaces due to our production process, leading to inconsistent cuts and engravings. To address this, we often perform an initial CNC pass to level the sheet's surface.
That's why we sometimes do a first pass with the CNC Router "cleaning" the surface of the sheet and trying to mill an even surface.
![IMG_20210108_192930.jpg](./IMG_20210108_192930.jpg)
@ -92,9 +93,10 @@ Our primary challenge with HDPE sheets arises from uneven surfaces due to our pr
### Step 6: Post-production and show case
### Final Version
You take now your glasses or object and postprocess them and of course show it to your friends, family and so on.
Take your glasses or object, post-process them, and share the results with others.
![9.jpg](./9.jpg)
@ -103,32 +105,4 @@ Take your glasses or object, post-process them, and share the results with other
![Sin título.png](./Sin_titulo.png)
## Resources
### Hardware
- [X-Carve CNC Machine](https://www.inventables.com/technologies/x-carve)
- CNC clamps (for securing sheets)
### Software
- [Easel CAM](https://easel.inventables.com) (for material simulation and cutting control)
- [Inkscape](https://inkscape.org) (vector graphics editor)
- [The Noun Project](https://thenounproject.com) (source for SVG files)
### Tools
- 1/8 inch (3.175 mm) flat flute cutting bit
- HDPE sheets (material to be processed)
### Post-Processing
- Sanding/polishing tools (for finishing)
## References
## References
### YouTube
- [How to Cut HDPE Sheets with X-Carve CNC](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4LrrFz802To)
### Opensource Designs
- [The Noun Project (Vector Graphics)](https://thenounproject.com)
## References

20
howtos/cnc-plastic-sheets-into-products/config.json
View File

@ -64,7 +64,7 @@
},
"_modified": "2023-11-14T16:29:11.449Z",
"difficulty_level": "Medium",
"description": "This tutorial outlines the process of cutting HDPE sheets with an X-Carve CNC machine.\n\nWatch the full video in Spanish with subtitles: [YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4LrrFz802To)",
"description": "In this how to, I will show you our process to cut HDPE Sheets using a X-Carve CNC.\n\nHere is the full video in spanish with subtitles https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4LrrFz802To ",
"_createdBy": "gus-merckel",
"slug": "cnc-plastic-sheets-into-products",
"mentions": [],
@ -74,7 +74,7 @@
"steps": [
{
"title": "Meassure the plastic sheet",
"text": "### Measurement and Setup\n\nMeasure the plastic sheet's height, width, and thickness. The X-Carve CNC machine uses the Easel CAM software, which allows simulation of materials, including HDPE 2-Colors. \n\nFor reference: \n- Height: ___ meters (___ inches) \n- Width: ___ meters (___ inches) \n- Thickness: ___ millimeters (___ inches)",
"text": "For this step we need to meassure our plastic sheet: Height, Width and Thickness. Our X-Carve machine works with the CAM Software EASEL, for me, the easiest software for CNC milling out there. \n\nThe cool thing about Easel (<a class=\"text-orange-600 underline\" href=\"https://easel.inventables.com/)\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">easel.inventables.com: easel.inventables.com/)</a> is that you can \"simulate\" you actual material and THEY EVEN HAVE HDPE 2-Colors in their cutting material lists!!\n\n\n",
"images": [
{
"updated": "2021-03-26T19:42:05.766Z",
@ -104,7 +104,7 @@
"_animationKey": "unique1"
},
{
"text": "Secure the sheet to the table using the CNC clamps from the X-Carve.",
"text": "Using the CNC clamps from the X-Carve, secure the sheet to the table, ",
"title": "Secure sheet ",
"_animationKey": "unique2",
"images": [
@ -151,7 +151,7 @@
}
],
"_animationKey": "unique3",
"text": "Proceed to a vector graphics editor like Inkscape to create or download a vector file from sites such as [The Noun Project](https://thenounproject.com).\n\nDownload the SVG file, an open-source vector format, and import it into Easel."
"text": "Now we go to our illustrator, such as Inkscape to design a vector file or download and open source one frome <a class=\"text-orange-600 underline\" href=\"https://thenounproject.com/.\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">thenounproject.com: thenounproject.com</a>\n\nWe download the SVG file, which is an open source vector format and import it to Easel. \n"
},
{
"images": [
@ -192,12 +192,12 @@
"alt": "8.jpg"
}
],
"text": "With the file ready, select the desired carving width and initiate the cutting process:\n\n- Ensure the sheet is secured.\n- Specify the cutting bit, such as a 1/8 inch (3.175 mm) flat flute bit.\n- Set the machine’s coordinate origin at the lower-left corner.\n- Raise the bit and activate the CNC Router.",
"text": "Now with the file we can choose the width we want to carve/cut and then we go to cut and start the wizzard:\n- We check that the sheet is fixed.\n- We also specify the cutting bit, we are using a 1/8 flat flute bit. \n- We tell the machine where the coordinate 0-0 is, which we always choose as the down left corner.\n- We raise the bit, turn on the CNC Router!!!\n\nAND PUM THE MAGIC BEGINS!!",
"title": "Follow the cutting Wizzard",
"_animationKey": "uniquenisc2v"
},
{
"text": "**CNC Processing of Various Materials**\n\nTypically, we cut wood, acrylic, and aluminum using the CNC. Transitioning to plastic, specifically HDPE, proved uncomplicated. The CNC Router handles HDPE with ease, outpacing wood and vastly surpassing aluminum in speed.\n\nOur primary challenge with HDPE sheets arises from uneven surfaces due to our production process, leading to inconsistent cuts and engravings. To address this, we often perform an initial CNC pass to level the sheet's surface.",
"text": "Normaly we cut wood, acrylic and aluminum in the CNC. Moving to plastic wasn't hard at all, it's impressing how easy the CNC Router\ncuts through HDPE. It's quicker than cutting wood and 10 times than aluminum. \n\nThe main problem we have with the HDPE sheets is that we don't always have even surfaces, because of our sheet making process, resulting in uneven cuts and engravings. \n\nThat's why we sometimes do a first pass with the CNC Router \"cleaning\" the surface of the sheet and trying to mill an even surface. ",
"_animationKey": "uniquef3y5uqb",
"images": [
{
@ -267,7 +267,7 @@
"alt": "Sin título.png"
}
],
"text": "### Final Version\n\nTake your glasses or object, post-process them, and share the results with others.",
"text": "You take now your glasses or object and postprocess them and of course show it to your friends, family and so on.\n\n\n",
"_animationKey": "uniquesgl34"
}
],
@ -411,9 +411,5 @@
"urls": []
}
},
"content": "This tutorial outlines the process of cutting HDPE sheets with an X-Carve CNC machine.\n\nWatch the full video in Spanish with subtitles: [YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4LrrFz802To)\n\n\nUser Location: Mexico City, Mexico\n\n### Measurement and Setup\n\nMeasure the plastic sheet's height, width, and thickness. The X-Carve CNC machine uses the Easel CAM software, which allows simulation of materials, including HDPE 2-Colors. \n\nFor reference: \n- Height: ___ meters (___ inches) \n- Width: ___ meters (___ inches) \n- Thickness: ___ millimeters (___ inches)\n\nSecure the sheet to the table using the CNC clamps from the X-Carve.\n\nProceed to a vector graphics editor like Inkscape to create or download a vector file from sites such as [The Noun Project](https://thenounproject.com).\n\nDownload the SVG file, an open-source vector format, and import it into Easel.\n\nWith the file ready, select the desired carving width and initiate the cutting process:\n\n- Ensure the sheet is secured.\n- Specify the cutting bit, such as a 1/8 inch (3.175 mm) flat flute bit.\n- Set the machine’s coordinate origin at the lower-left corner.\n- Raise the bit and activate the CNC Router.\n\n**CNC Processing of Various Materials**\n\nTypically, we cut wood, acrylic, and aluminum using the CNC. Transitioning to plastic, specifically HDPE, proved uncomplicated. The CNC Router handles HDPE with ease, outpacing wood and vastly surpassing aluminum in speed.\n\nOur primary challenge with HDPE sheets arises from uneven surfaces due to our production process, leading to inconsistent cuts and engravings. To address this, we often perform an initial CNC pass to level the sheet's surface.\n\n### Final Version\n\nTake your glasses or object, post-process them, and share the results with others.",
"keywords": "HDPE cutting, X-Carve CNC, CNC machine tutorial, Easel CAM software, vector graphics Inkscape, CNC Router HDPE, Mexican CNC tutorial, HDPE engraving, CNC leveling, CNC cutting speed",
"resources": "### Hardware\n\n- [X-Carve CNC Machine](https://www.inventables.com/technologies/x-carve)\n- CNC clamps (for securing sheets)\n\n### Software\n\n- [Easel CAM](https://easel.inventables.com) (for material simulation and cutting control)\n- [Inkscape](https://inkscape.org) (vector graphics editor)\n- [The Noun Project](https://thenounproject.com) (source for SVG files)\n\n### Tools\n\n- 1/8 inch (3.175 mm) flat flute cutting bit\n- HDPE sheets (material to be processed)\n\n### Post-Processing\n\n- Sanding/polishing tools (for finishing)",
"references": "## References\n\n### YouTube\n\n- [How to Cut HDPE Sheets with X-Carve CNC](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4LrrFz802To)\n\n### Opensource Designs\n\n- [The Noun Project (Vector Graphics)](https://thenounproject.com)",
"brief": "Learn to cut HDPE sheets with an X-Carve CNC machine using Easel software for precise and efficient results. Perfect for beginners and experts alike!"
"content": "In this how to, I will show you our process to cut HDPE Sheets using a X-Carve CNC.\n\nHere is the full video in spanish with subtitles https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4LrrFz802To \n\n\nUser Location: Mexico City, Mexico\n\nFor this step we need to meassure our plastic sheet: Height, Width and Thickness. Our X-Carve machine works with the CAM Software EASEL, for me, the easiest software for CNC milling out there. \n\nThe cool thing about Easel (<a class=\"text-orange-600 underline\" href=\"https://easel.inventables.com/)\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">easel.inventables.com: easel.inventables.com/)</a> is that you can \"simulate\" you actual material and THEY EVEN HAVE HDPE 2-Colors in their cutting material lists!!\n\n\n\n\nUsing the CNC clamps from the X-Carve, secure the sheet to the table, \n\nNow we go to our illustrator, such as Inkscape to design a vector file or download and open source one frome <a class=\"text-orange-600 underline\" href=\"https://thenounproject.com/.\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">thenounproject.com: thenounproject.com</a>\n\nWe download the SVG file, which is an open source vector format and import it to Easel. \n\n\nNow with the file we can choose the width we want to carve/cut and then we go to cut and start the wizzard:\n- We check that the sheet is fixed.\n- We also specify the cutting bit, we are using a 1/8 flat flute bit. \n- We tell the machine where the coordinate 0-0 is, which we always choose as the down left corner.\n- We raise the bit, turn on the CNC Router!!!\n\nAND PUM THE MAGIC BEGINS!!\n\nNormaly we cut wood, acrylic and aluminum in the CNC. Moving to plastic wasn't hard at all, it's impressing how easy the CNC Router\ncuts through HDPE. It's quicker than cutting wood and 10 times than aluminum. \n\nThe main problem we have with the HDPE sheets is that we don't always have even surfaces, because of our sheet making process, resulting in uneven cuts and engravings. \n\nThat's why we sometimes do a first pass with the CNC Router \"cleaning\" the surface of the sheet and trying to mill an even surface. \n\nYou take now your glasses or object and postprocess them and of course show it to your friends, family and so on.\n\n\n"
}

66
howtos/coaster-from-coffee-waste/README.md
View File

@ -1,23 +1,23 @@
---
title: Coaster from coffee waste
slug: coaster-from-coffee-waste
description: The increasing popularity of coffee results in significant waste from coffee grounds. Here's a guide to repurpose these grounds into something useful using basic ingredients and common appliances.
description: This exponential coffee craze has led us to a staggering amount of coffee ground that is just wasted. Here is how you can turn that waste into something more valuable with all the simple ingredients and also appliances used.
tags: ["mould","product"]
category: uncategorized
difficulty: Easy
time: < 1 week
keywords: coffee waste recycling, repurposing coffee grounds, DIY brick making, tapioca starch binder, sustainable waste management, eco-friendly DIY project, coffee ground crafts, homemade building materials, Cikarang green initiatives, coffee ground uses
keywords:
location: Cikarang, Indonesia
---
# Coaster from coffee waste
![Coaster from coffee waste](aaaa-1855bcf8ce9.png)
The increasing popularity of coffee results in significant waste from coffee grounds. Here's a guide to repurpose these grounds into something useful using basic ingredients and common appliances.
This exponential coffee craze has led us to a staggering amount of coffee ground that is just wasted. Here is how you can turn that waste into something more valuable with all the simple ingredients and also appliances used.
User Location: Cikarang, Indonesia
## Steps
### Step 1: Prepare all the ingredients
Prepare all ingredients before beginning, as the process is rapid. For this specific brick and mold, combine 7 tablespoons (103.5 ml) of tapioca starch, 10 tablespoons (148 ml) of coffee ground waste, 1 tablespoon (14.8 ml) of vinegar, and 180 ml (6.1 fl oz) of water. Experiment with different ratios for varied characteristics. Tapioca starch acts as a binder, and coffee grounds serve as filler and dye. Mix thoroughly until smooth.
Prep all the ingredients now as the cooking process occurs quickly. For this particular brick and mold, I use a mixture of 7 tbsp of tapioca starch, 10 tbsp of coffee ground waste, 1 tbsp of vinegar, and 180 ml of water. However, different blends can create different brick characteristics, so try various ratios for different results. The tapioca starch acts as a binding agent while the coffee ground is the “filler” and the dye. Mix all the ingredients well until there are no lumps in the mixture.
![IMG_20221217_142537_871-1855bc7f45b.jpg](./IMG_20221217_142537_871-1855bc7f45b.jpg)
@ -27,7 +27,7 @@ Prepare all ingredients before beginning, as the process is rapid. For this spec
### Step 2: Cooking process
This process requires quick action. Cook the mixture on low heat, stirring continuously until it thickens. Once thickened, turn off the heat to complete the cooking process.
This process is fast so get into high gear! Cook the mixture on low heat while constantly stirring it until it thickens. Once the mixture has thickened, turn off the heat, and the cooking process is done.
![IMG_20221219_123806_343-1855bca0bfc.jpg](./IMG_20221219_123806_343-1855bca0bfc.jpg)
@ -37,7 +37,7 @@ This process requires quick action. Cook the mixture on low heat, stirring conti
### Step 3: Mold your mixture
Transfer the thickened mixture to your mold. Use wax or line the mold with wax paper for easy release once dried.
Transfer the thickened mixture to your mold. You can use wax or line the mold using wax paper to help release the mold when it has dried out.
![IMG_20221219_124101_820-1855bcb6a26.jpg](./IMG_20221219_124101_820-1855bcb6a26.jpg)
@ -47,7 +47,7 @@ Transfer the thickened mixture to your mold. Use wax or line the mold with wax p
### Step 4: Waiting Game
Allow the mixture to dry into a solid piece at room temperature for 2 to 4 days, depending on the mold size and brick thickness. Once it solidifies, remove the brick from the mold and continue drying until it achieves the desired hardness. To expedite the process, consider using an oven.
Let the mixture dry into a solid piece at room temperature. This process can take from 2 up to 4 days depending on the size of the mold and the thickness of the brick. After it already forms into a solid brick, pull the brick out of the mold and dry it further until the brick is as hard as desired. You can also speed up this process by using an oven to quickly dry the brick.
![putih2-1855bcc11bd.jpg](./putih2-1855bcc11bd.jpg)
@ -56,54 +56,4 @@ Allow the mixture to dry into a solid piece at room temperature for 2 to 4 days,
![gelas2-1855bcc250d.jpg](./gelas2-1855bcc250d.jpg)
## Resources
### Ingredients
- Tapioca starch (binder) [^1]
- Coffee ground waste (filler/dye) [^1]
- Vinegar [^1]
- Water [^1]
### Tools & Equipment
- Mixing bowl [^1]
- Stirring utensil [^1]
- Stove/cooktop (low heat) [^1]
### Molding Supplies
- Mold (size varies) [^1]
- Wax or wax paper (for mold lining) [^1]
### Drying Equipment
- Room-temperature drying space (2–4 days) [^1]
- Oven (optional, for faster drying) [^1]
[^1]: Tutorial text details
## References
Here is the organized list of references grouped by type:
### Articles
- [How to Make a Coffee Fire Log](https://www.instructables.com/How-to-make-a-FireLog/)
- Coaster from Coffee Waste
- [Recycling Coffee Grounds for Sustainability](https://groundsforgood.co.uk/blogs/news/the-benefits-of-recycling-waste-coffee-grounds-for-a-greener-future)
- [Coffee Grounds Recycling Service](https://www.envar.co.uk/coffee-grounds-recycling/)
- [Red-Brick Coffee Shop Design](https://www.azuremagazine.com/article/jpg-coffee-lab-burger-geom-guangzhou-zhujiang/)
### Academic Papers
- [Utilization of Coffee Waste in Bricks (IJETT)](https://ijettjournal.org/assets/year/2016/volume-39/number-4/IJETT-V39P238.pdf)
- [Spent Coffee Grounds as Building Material (PMC)](https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC8911109/)
- [Coffee Grounds in Sand Concrete (Aljest)](https://www.aljest.net/index.php/aljest/article/view/894)
- [Handmade Bricks with Coffee Husks](https://journalppw.com/index.php/jppw/article/download/15737/10112/19328)
### YouTube
- [Coffee Briquettes as Fuel](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BrUE1Hs82iQ)
- [DIY Coffee Ground Firestarters](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UEdyMyFaU3g)
### Open-Source Designs
- [Broke: Open-Source NFC Tag Project](https://posts.oztamir.com/broke-an-open-source-alternative-to-brick/)
- [filtered] Coffee Waste Design
## References

16
howtos/coaster-from-coffee-waste/config.json
View File

@ -7,7 +7,7 @@
],
"steps": [
{
"text": "Prepare all ingredients before beginning, as the process is rapid. For this specific brick and mold, combine 7 tablespoons (103.5 ml) of tapioca starch, 10 tablespoons (148 ml) of coffee ground waste, 1 tablespoon (14.8 ml) of vinegar, and 180 ml (6.1 fl oz) of water. Experiment with different ratios for varied characteristics. Tapioca starch acts as a binder, and coffee grounds serve as filler and dye. Mix thoroughly until smooth.",
"text": "Prep all the ingredients now as the cooking process occurs quickly. For this particular brick and mold, I use a mixture of 7 tbsp of tapioca starch, 10 tbsp of coffee ground waste, 1 tbsp of vinegar, and 180 ml of water. However, different blends can create different brick characteristics, so try various ratios for different results. The tapioca starch acts as a binding agent while the coffee ground is the “filler” and the dye. Mix all the ingredients well until there are no lumps in the mixture. ",
"title": "Prepare all the ingredients",
"images": [
{
@ -66,7 +66,7 @@
}
],
"title": "Cooking process",
"text": "This process requires quick action. Cook the mixture on low heat, stirring continuously until it thickens. Once thickened, turn off the heat to complete the cooking process."
"text": "This process is fast so get into high gear! Cook the mixture on low heat while constantly stirring it until it thickens. Once the mixture has thickened, turn off the heat, and the cooking process is done."
},
{
"images": [
@ -97,7 +97,7 @@
],
"title": "Mold your mixture",
"_animationKey": "unique3",
"text": "Transfer the thickened mixture to your mold. Use wax or line the mold with wax paper for easy release once dried."
"text": "Transfer the thickened mixture to your mold. You can use wax or line the mold using wax paper to help release the mold when it has dried out. "
},
{
"images": [
@ -127,7 +127,7 @@
}
],
"title": "Waiting Game",
"text": "Allow the mixture to dry into a solid piece at room temperature for 2 to 4 days, depending on the mold size and brick thickness. Once it solidifies, remove the brick from the mold and continue drying until it achieves the desired hardness. To expedite the process, consider using an oven.",
"text": "Let the mixture dry into a solid piece at room temperature. This process can take from 2 up to 4 days depending on the size of the mold and the thickness of the brick. After it already forms into a solid brick, pull the brick out of the mold and dry it further until the brick is as hard as desired. You can also speed up this process by using an oven to quickly dry the brick.",
"_animationKey": "uniquehgn2fp"
}
],
@ -174,7 +174,7 @@
"mentions": [],
"total_downloads": 0,
"total_views": 576,
"description": "The increasing popularity of coffee results in significant waste from coffee grounds. Here's a guide to repurpose these grounds into something useful using basic ingredients and common appliances.",
"description": "This exponential coffee craze has led us to a staggering amount of coffee ground that is just wasted. Here is how you can turn that waste into something more valuable with all the simple ingredients and also appliances used.",
"creatorCountry": "id",
"slug": "coaster-from-coffee-waste",
"difficulty_level": "Easy",
@ -362,9 +362,5 @@
"category": {
"label": "uncategorized"
},
"content": "The increasing popularity of coffee results in significant waste from coffee grounds. Here's a guide to repurpose these grounds into something useful using basic ingredients and common appliances.\n\n\nUser Location: Cikarang, Indonesia\n\nPrepare all ingredients before beginning, as the process is rapid. For this specific brick and mold, combine 7 tablespoons (103.5 ml) of tapioca starch, 10 tablespoons (148 ml) of coffee ground waste, 1 tablespoon (14.8 ml) of vinegar, and 180 ml (6.1 fl oz) of water. Experiment with different ratios for varied characteristics. Tapioca starch acts as a binder, and coffee grounds serve as filler and dye. Mix thoroughly until smooth.\n\nThis process requires quick action. Cook the mixture on low heat, stirring continuously until it thickens. Once thickened, turn off the heat to complete the cooking process.\n\nTransfer the thickened mixture to your mold. Use wax or line the mold with wax paper for easy release once dried.\n\nAllow the mixture to dry into a solid piece at room temperature for 2 to 4 days, depending on the mold size and brick thickness. Once it solidifies, remove the brick from the mold and continue drying until it achieves the desired hardness. To expedite the process, consider using an oven.",
"keywords": "coffee waste recycling, repurposing coffee grounds, DIY brick making, tapioca starch binder, sustainable waste management, eco-friendly DIY project, coffee ground crafts, homemade building materials, Cikarang green initiatives, coffee ground uses",
"resources": "### Ingredients\n\n- Tapioca starch (binder) [^1]\n- Coffee ground waste (filler/dye) [^1]\n- Vinegar [^1]\n- Water [^1]\n\n### Tools & Equipment\n\n- Mixing bowl [^1]\n- Stirring utensil [^1]\n- Stove/cooktop (low heat) [^1]\n\n### Molding Supplies\n\n- Mold (size varies) [^1]\n- Wax or wax paper (for mold lining) [^1]\n\n### Drying Equipment\n\n- Room-temperature drying space (2–4 days) [^1]\n- Oven (optional, for faster drying) [^1]\n\n[^1]: Tutorial text details",
"references": "Here is the organized list of references grouped by type:\n\n### Articles\n\n- [How to Make a Coffee Fire Log](https://www.instructables.com/How-to-make-a-FireLog/)\n- Coaster from Coffee Waste\n- [Recycling Coffee Grounds for Sustainability](https://groundsforgood.co.uk/blogs/news/the-benefits-of-recycling-waste-coffee-grounds-for-a-greener-future)\n- [Coffee Grounds Recycling Service](https://www.envar.co.uk/coffee-grounds-recycling/)\n- [Red-Brick Coffee Shop Design](https://www.azuremagazine.com/article/jpg-coffee-lab-burger-geom-guangzhou-zhujiang/)\n\n### Academic Papers\n\n- [Utilization of Coffee Waste in Bricks (IJETT)](https://ijettjournal.org/assets/year/2016/volume-39/number-4/IJETT-V39P238.pdf)\n- [Spent Coffee Grounds as Building Material (PMC)](https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC8911109/)\n- [Coffee Grounds in Sand Concrete (Aljest)](https://www.aljest.net/index.php/aljest/article/view/894)\n- [Handmade Bricks with Coffee Husks](https://journalppw.com/index.php/jppw/article/download/15737/10112/19328)\n\n### YouTube\n\n- [Coffee Briquettes as Fuel](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BrUE1Hs82iQ)\n- [DIY Coffee Ground Firestarters](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UEdyMyFaU3g)\n\n### Open-Source Designs\n\n- [Broke: Open-Source NFC Tag Project](https://posts.oztamir.com/broke-an-open-source-alternative-to-brick/)\n- [filtered] Coffee Waste Design",
"brief": "Repurpose coffee grounds into eco-friendly bricks using tapioca starch and vinegar. Follow our guide for a sustainable solution to coffee waste."
"content": "This exponential coffee craze has led us to a staggering amount of coffee ground that is just wasted. Here is how you can turn that waste into something more valuable with all the simple ingredients and also appliances used.\n\n\nUser Location: Cikarang, Indonesia\n\nPrep all the ingredients now as the cooking process occurs quickly. For this particular brick and mold, I use a mixture of 7 tbsp of tapioca starch, 10 tbsp of coffee ground waste, 1 tbsp of vinegar, and 180 ml of water. However, different blends can create different brick characteristics, so try various ratios for different results. The tapioca starch acts as a binding agent while the coffee ground is the “filler” and the dye. Mix all the ingredients well until there are no lumps in the mixture. \n\nThis process is fast so get into high gear! Cook the mixture on low heat while constantly stirring it until it thickens. Once the mixture has thickened, turn off the heat, and the cooking process is done.\n\nTransfer the thickened mixture to your mold. You can use wax or line the mold using wax paper to help release the mold when it has dried out. \n\nLet the mixture dry into a solid piece at room temperature. This process can take from 2 up to 4 days depending on the size of the mold and the thickness of the brick. After it already forms into a solid brick, pull the brick out of the mold and dry it further until the brick is as hard as desired. You can also speed up this process by using an oven to quickly dry the brick."
}

81
howtos/collect-more-of-one-plastic-type/README.md
View File

@ -1,27 +1,35 @@
---
title: Collect more of one Plastic Type!
slug: collect-more-of-one-plastic-type
description: Interested in gathering a specific type of plastic for a project?
description: Want to collect more of a certain type of plastic for a specific project?
Learn our methods here.
Find out how we do it here 🙂
tags: ["collection"]
category: uncategorized
difficulty: Easy
time: < 1 hour
keywords: plastic recycling, HDPE2 collection, PP05 items, Worksop plastic projects, local recycling methods, plastic art projects, HDPE2 products, PP05 recycling, UK plastic sorting, community plastic gathering
keywords:
location: Worksop, United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland (the)
---
# Collect more of one Plastic Type!
![Collect more of one Plastic Type!](Screenshot_2021-07-09-20-37-08-937.jpg)
Interested in gathering a specific type of plastic for a project?
Want to collect more of a certain type of plastic for a specific project?
Learn our methods here.
Find out how we do it here 🙂
User Location: Worksop, United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland (the)
## Steps
### Step 1: Decide which Plastic you need
To begin a project involving HDPE2, identify local products made from this material. Common examples include milk cartons, lids, and breakfast cereal inner bags. Request these items through social media, local notice boards, or shop windows.
If you are wanting to do an HDPE2 based project, don't ask the community for HDPE2...
...🤔
...instead find out which products used locally are made from HDPE2 😀
For us, this would be milk cartons, lids and breakfast cereal inner bags 😁
Then ask for these...on social media, local Post Office notice board or a shop window!
![IMG_20210930_105228.jpg](./IMG_20210930_105228.jpg)
@ -34,9 +42,15 @@ To begin a project involving HDPE2, identify local products made from this mater
### Step 2: Another type of plastic?
After completing that project, consider another endeavor:
Once you have completed that project...
PP05: Request contact lens covers and cases, Chinese-style pots, or chocolate and sweet wrappers.
...it's time for another type and another project 🙂
PP05...just ask for Contact Lense covers and cases...
Or Chinese type pots...
Or even chocolate & sweet wrappers 😀
![IMG_20210813_184238.jpg](./IMG_20210813_184238.jpg)
@ -49,53 +63,18 @@ PP05: Request contact lens covers and cases, Chinese-style pots, or chocolate an
### Step 3: How about another Project?
Certainly! Here's the revised text:
While you wait for enough materials to come in for your projects...
---
Why not try out a different perspective 🤔
While awaiting materials for your projects, consider using plastic for an art project to enhance your workspace. Happy sorting.
Use plastic for an artwork project to brighten up your workspace 😃
Happy sorting 😊💖
Recycle Today to Save Tomorrow 🌍🌞
![IMG_20210930_121604.jpg](./IMG_20210930_121604.jpg)
## Resources
To address the query, here's the structured information extracted from the provided tutorial:
### Tools
- Social media platforms ([Facebook Marketplace](https://www.facebook.com/marketplace))
- Local notice boards ([Gumtree Worksop](https://www.gumtree.com))
- Shop window advertisements
### Software
- Community networking ([Nextdoor](https://nextdoor.co.uk))
- Material-sharing platforms ([Freecycle](https://www.freecycle.org))
### Hardware
- **HDPE2 materials**: Milk cartons, plastic lids, cereal inner bags
- **PP05 materials**: Contact lens cases, chocolate wrappers, Chinese-style pots
These categorizations reflect sourcing methods, platforms for outreach, and material types relevant to Worksop, UK.
## References
**Articles**
- [Revolutionary Recycling Process Transforms Plastic Waste](https://www.energy.gov/eere/bioenergy/articles/revolutionary-recycling-process-transforms-plastic-waste) [1]
**Books**
- [Understanding Plastics Recycling 2E: Economic, Ecological, and Technical Aspects of Plastic Waste Handling](https://www.barnesandnoble.com/w/understanding-plastics-recycling-2e-natalie-rudolph/1137695178) [2]
- [Small-scale Recycling of Plastics](https://practicalactionpublishing.com/book/1999/small-scale-recycling-of-plastics) [8]
**Papers**
- [Plastics Recycling: Challenges and Opportunities](https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC2873020/) [7]
**YouTube**
- [What Is The Plastic Recycling Process](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JmXf0JgiLTw) [4]
**Opensource Designs**
- [[filtered] by Dave Hakkens: Open-Source Plastic Recycling Workshop](https://www.designboom.com/technology/precious-plastic-dave-hakkens-recycling-workshop-06-02-2014/) [5]
## References

14
howtos/collect-more-of-one-plastic-type/config.json
View File

@ -69,11 +69,11 @@
],
"title": "Decide which Plastic you need",
"_animationKey": "unique1",
"text": "To begin a project involving HDPE2, identify local products made from this material. Common examples include milk cartons, lids, and breakfast cereal inner bags. Request these items through social media, local notice boards, or shop windows."
"text": "If you are wanting to do an HDPE2 based project, don't ask the community for HDPE2...\n\n...🤔\n\n...instead find out which products used locally are made from HDPE2 😀\n\nFor us, this would be milk cartons, lids and breakfast cereal inner bags 😁\n\nThen ask for these...on social media, local Post Office notice board or a shop window!"
},
{
"_animationKey": "unique2",
"text": "After completing that project, consider another endeavor:\n\nPP05: Request contact lens covers and cases, Chinese-style pots, or chocolate and sweet wrappers.",
"text": "Once you have completed that project...\n\n...it's time for another type and another project 🙂\n\nPP05...just ask for Contact Lense covers and cases...\n\nOr Chinese type pots...\n\nOr even chocolate & sweet wrappers 😀",
"title": "Another type of plastic?",
"images": [
{
@ -131,11 +131,11 @@
"alt": "IMG_20210930_121604.jpg"
}
],
"text": "Certainly! Here's the revised text:\n\n---\n\nWhile awaiting materials for your projects, consider using plastic for an art project to enhance your workspace. Happy sorting."
"text": "While you wait for enough materials to come in for your projects...\n\nWhy not try out a different perspective 🤔\n\nUse plastic for an artwork project to brighten up your workspace 😃\n\nHappy sorting 😊💖\n\nRecycle Today to Save Tomorrow 🌍🌞"
}
],
"title": "Collect more of one Plastic Type!",
"description": "Interested in gathering a specific type of plastic for a project?\n\nLearn our methods here.",
"description": "Want to collect more of a certain type of plastic for a specific project?\n\nFind out how we do it here 🙂",
"_created": "2021-09-30T11:21:57.049Z",
"_deleted": false,
"_modified": "2024-01-27T11:04:55.949Z",
@ -324,9 +324,5 @@
"category": {
"label": "uncategorized"
},
"content": "Interested in gathering a specific type of plastic for a project?\n\nLearn our methods here.\n\n\nUser Location: Worksop, United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland (the)\n\nTo begin a project involving HDPE2, identify local products made from this material. Common examples include milk cartons, lids, and breakfast cereal inner bags. Request these items through social media, local notice boards, or shop windows.\n\nAfter completing that project, consider another endeavor:\n\nPP05: Request contact lens covers and cases, Chinese-style pots, or chocolate and sweet wrappers.\n\nCertainly! Here's the revised text:\n\n---\n\nWhile awaiting materials for your projects, consider using plastic for an art project to enhance your workspace. Happy sorting.",
"keywords": "plastic recycling, HDPE2 collection, PP05 items, Worksop plastic projects, local recycling methods, plastic art projects, HDPE2 products, PP05 recycling, UK plastic sorting, community plastic gathering",
"resources": "To address the query, here's the structured information extracted from the provided tutorial:\n\n### Tools\n\n- Social media platforms ([Facebook Marketplace](https://www.facebook.com/marketplace))\n- Local notice boards ([Gumtree Worksop](https://www.gumtree.com))\n- Shop window advertisements\n\n### Software\n\n- Community networking ([Nextdoor](https://nextdoor.co.uk))\n- Material-sharing platforms ([Freecycle](https://www.freecycle.org))\n\n### Hardware\n\n- **HDPE2 materials**: Milk cartons, plastic lids, cereal inner bags\n- **PP05 materials**: Contact lens cases, chocolate wrappers, Chinese-style pots\n\nThese categorizations reflect sourcing methods, platforms for outreach, and material types relevant to Worksop, UK.",
"references": "**Articles**\n\n- [Revolutionary Recycling Process Transforms Plastic Waste](https://www.energy.gov/eere/bioenergy/articles/revolutionary-recycling-process-transforms-plastic-waste) [1]\n\n**Books**\n\n- [Understanding Plastics Recycling 2E: Economic, Ecological, and Technical Aspects of Plastic Waste Handling](https://www.barnesandnoble.com/w/understanding-plastics-recycling-2e-natalie-rudolph/1137695178) [2]\n- [Small-scale Recycling of Plastics](https://practicalactionpublishing.com/book/1999/small-scale-recycling-of-plastics) [8]\n\n**Papers**\n\n- [Plastics Recycling: Challenges and Opportunities](https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC2873020/) [7]\n\n**YouTube**\n\n- [What Is The Plastic Recycling Process](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JmXf0JgiLTw) [4]\n\n**Opensource Designs**\n\n- [[filtered] by Dave Hakkens: Open-Source Plastic Recycling Workshop](https://www.designboom.com/technology/precious-plastic-dave-hakkens-recycling-workshop-06-02-2014/) [5]",
"brief": "Discover methods for sourcing HDPE2 and PP05 plastics for your projects. Gather materials locally using social media, notice boards, or shop windows."
"content": "Want to collect more of a certain type of plastic for a specific project?\n\nFind out how we do it here 🙂\n\n\nUser Location: Worksop, United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland (the)\n\nIf you are wanting to do an HDPE2 based project, don't ask the community for HDPE2...\n\n...🤔\n\n...instead find out which products used locally are made from HDPE2 😀\n\nFor us, this would be milk cartons, lids and breakfast cereal inner bags 😁\n\nThen ask for these...on social media, local Post Office notice board or a shop window!\n\nOnce you have completed that project...\n\n...it's time for another type and another project 🙂\n\nPP05...just ask for Contact Lense covers and cases...\n\nOr Chinese type pots...\n\nOr even chocolate & sweet wrappers 😀\n\nWhile you wait for enough materials to come in for your projects...\n\nWhy not try out a different perspective 🤔\n\nUse plastic for an artwork project to brighten up your workspace 😃\n\nHappy sorting 😊💖\n\nRecycle Today to Save Tomorrow 🌍🌞"
}

120
howtos/collecting-plastic-in-arugam-bay-sri-lanka/README.md
View File

@ -1,23 +1,24 @@
---
title: Collecting plastic in Arugam Bay, Sri Lanka
slug: collecting-plastic-in-arugam-bay-sri-lanka
description: This guide explains how we addressed waste collection in a growing tourist area. As tourism increases waste production beyond local capacity, it is essential to establish improved collection systems.
description: Here we outline how we created an intervention into a booming tourist destination. As tourism related waste production diminished collection from the local population it is important to intervene and set up better collection mechanisms.
tags: ["research","collection","sorting"]
category: Guides
difficulty: Hard
time: 1+ months
keywords: waste management, tourism waste solutions, plastic recycling Sri Lanka, PET bottle collection, Arugam Bay waste initiatives, sustainable tourism practices, USAID waste projects, community recycling programs, eco-friendly tourist destinations, waste reduction strategies
keywords:
location: Pottuvil, Sri Lanka
---
# Collecting plastic in Arugam Bay, Sri Lanka
![Collecting plastic in Arugam Bay, Sri Lanka](wlab-02.jpg)
This guide explains how we addressed waste collection in a growing tourist area. As tourism increases waste production beyond local capacity, it is essential to establish improved collection systems.
Here we outline how we created an intervention into a booming tourist destination. As tourism related waste production diminished collection from the local population it is important to intervene and set up better collection mechanisms.
User Location: Pottuvil, Sri Lanka
## Steps
### Step 1: Arugam Bay
Located in Arugam Bay, a small town of 150 residents on Sri Lanka's east coast, the local economy relies heavily on tourism and seasonal fishing. However, effective waste management is lacking. During the tourist season, municipal waste management capacity is overwhelmed by tourism-related businesses, resulting in increased plastic waste burning by locals. Additionally, businesses incinerate large piles of plastic bottles due to high tourist consumption.
We’re based in Arugam Bay, a small town of only 150 people on the east coast of Sri Lanka. The little town’s economy is mainly based on tourism with seasonal fishing but lacks proper waste management. During tourist season tourism related businesses demand all waste management capacity of the municipality so even more locals than usual resort to burning their plastic waste. Also businesses were burning large piles of plastic bottles as tourists consume such a vast amount of it.
![PET and palm 1.JPG](./PET_and_palm_1.JPG)
@ -30,7 +31,7 @@ Located in Arugam Bay, a small town of 150 residents on Sri Lanka's east coast,
### Step 2: What is Wasteless Arugam Bay (WLAB)
WLAB, established in 2018 with USAID funding, focuses on resource management, plastic collection, and education programs in schools, transforming plastic waste into products. We employ three full-time staff members.
We started WLAB in 2018 after we secured part of the financing through a USAID grant. We offer resource management, plastic collection, educational programs in schools and transform plastic waste into products. You know, the [filtered] jam! In total we are 3 full time employees.
![PET delivery to Eco Spindles.jpg](./PET_delivery_to_Eco_Spindles.jpg)
@ -43,7 +44,8 @@ WLAB, established in 2018 with USAID funding, focuses on resource management, pl
### Step 3: Our strategy
Our strategy involves collecting clean PET bottles from local sources. We sell these bottles to industry partners, retaining PE caps for our production. Occasionally, we participate in beach cleanup activities.
Our strategy is to mainly collect clean PET bottles from the local population and businesses. The collected PET bottles are sold back to the industry while we keep the PE caps for our own recycling production. Sporadically we also run and assist beach cleanups.
![PET at site.jpg](./PET_at_site.jpg)
@ -56,7 +58,8 @@ Our strategy involves collecting clean PET bottles from local sources. We sell t
### Step 4: Our space
Our facility in central Arugam Bay comprises two 20 ft (6.1 m) shipping containers with convenient access to the main road, frequented by tourists. This location enhances our visibility for educational purposes.
We work in a big space in the centre of Arugam Bay. The space consists of two 20ft shipping containers and has easy access to the main road where lots of tourists wander around between a mojito and a surf session. This offers great visibility for us to educate everyone about the problem and the alternatives.
![Tourists experience recycling.jpg](./Tourists_experience_recycling.jpg)
@ -69,7 +72,8 @@ Our facility in central Arugam Bay comprises two 20 ft (6.1 m) shipping containe
### Step 5: Focus on tourists
We focused on collecting plastic from the tourism industry due to their substantial volume of PET bottles, which are in high demand by the recycling industry in Sri Lanka for conversion into polyester yarn. These bottles are relatively easy to handle as they are clean, and the caps are suitable for the machines. This effort also addresses the issue of PET bottles contributing to landfill waste.
We decided to focus on collecting plastic from the tourism related industry as they have such a vast amount of PET bottles which happen to be in high demand by the recycling industry in Sri Lanka to be turned into recycled polyester yarn. Also, the handling is relatively easy as the bottles are clean and the bottle caps are great for the [filtered] machines. Also it solves the problem of PET bottles clogging up waste management that has to go to landfill.
![recycled Polyester yarn for testing in handloom 2.jpg](./recycled_Polyester_yarn_for_testing_in_handloom_2.jpg)
@ -82,7 +86,7 @@ We focused on collecting plastic from the tourism industry due to their substant
### Step 6: Provide alternatives
Our public water refill system allows free access for everyone. Ultimately, we aim to reduce the number of bottles needing collection. A tourist destination free of plastic bottles is preferable to one with a substantial PET bottle collection.
Our water refill system is public and anyone can refill for free. In the end we don’t really want to collect all these bottles! A tourist destination without any plastic bottles would be much better than a tourist destination that has a good collection for a vast amount of PET bottles
![IMG-20200114-WA0009.jpg](./IMG-20200114-WA0009.jpg)
@ -92,23 +96,22 @@ Our public water refill system allows free access for everyone. Ultimately, we a
### Step 7: Bins
We have placed over 60 bins around town at locations such as hotels, restaurants, resorts, mosques, and shops. Although initially free, we now consider implementing a deposit system. Each bin is attractively painted and includes a prominent sticker indicating the type of plastic collected, along with a message encouraging exploration of alternatives.
We’ve distributed over 60 bins across town to various hotels, restaurants, resorts, mosques and shops. We’ve given them out free of charge but in hindsight we would rather hand them out with a deposit. A nice paint job also helps sending the message. Our bins have a big sticker indicating the plastic we collect and also has a message that encourages people to search for alternatives.
![Collection barrel wit sticker.png](./Collection_barrel_wit_sticker.png)
### Step 8: Benefits for partners
### Markdown
As awareness of plastic waste grows, it is important for businesses to demonstrate action. Therefore, convincing business owners to adopt our bins is straightforward. A reliable staff member should communicate with businesses to establish trust in our efforts.
As tourists and hotels become more and more aware of the plastic waste problem, it is becoming increasingly crucial for businesses to look like they are doing something. For this reason it is incredibly easy to convince business owners to have our bins. However, we found it crucial to have credible staff member approaching the businesses, trusting that we are trying to do better things.
![Collection at remote beach.jpg](./Collection_at_remote_beach.jpg)
### Step 9: Transport
To collect and transport resources, we modified a traditional tuk tuk with distinctive illustrations by a local artist for a unique appearance.
To collect and transport our resources we wanted to have a fun and eye catching means of transport. We’ve tuned up a traditional tuk tuk with some amazing illustrations from a local artist.
![Collection vehicle.JPG](./Collection_vehicle.JPG)
@ -121,7 +124,7 @@ To collect and transport resources, we modified a traditional tuk tuk with disti
### Step 10: Daily collection
We regularly use our tuk tuk to gather plastic from various locations. During peak tourist season, collections are made daily due to increased volumes.
Every week we go out with our tuk tuk to collect the plastic from the different sites. During peak season we drive and collect every day as the amount peaks drastically with tourists arriving.
![Unloading PET collection.jpg](./Unloading_PET_collection.jpg)
@ -131,7 +134,8 @@ We regularly use our tuk tuk to gather plastic from various locations. During pe
### Step 11: Volumes
Monthly, we collect about 1 ton (approximately 2,205 pounds), a small portion of the available material. Gathering more from the local community is challenging despite the potential to collect over 4 tons (about 8,818 pounds) of PET monthly. The primary issue is that collection costs are high and PET prices remain low.
We collect about 1 ton a month. Which is a fraction of what is out there waiting to be recycled. Especially tricky is to collect from the local population. We could probably collect more than 4 tons a month of just PET! The problem is that collection is expensive and PET prices are low :(
![Storage shed filling up.jpg](./Storage_shed_filling_up.jpg)
@ -141,7 +145,7 @@ Monthly, we collect about 1 ton (approximately 2,205 pounds), a small portion of
### Step 12: Sorting
Upon arrival at the workspace, bottles are sorted to separate caps from PET bottles, placing each in designated containers. Staff typically perform this task, occasionally assisted by tourists.
Once the collected bottles come into our workspace we spend a considerable amount of time separating the bottle caps from the PET bottles placing them in the appropriate bags and containers. This job is done by one of our staff, sometimes tourists join in and lend us a hand.
![Green bottle lids.JPG](./Green_bottle_lids.JPG)
@ -154,14 +158,15 @@ Upon arrival at the workspace, bottles are sorted to separate caps from PET bott
### Step 13: Baling
To optimize transport efficiency, we bale our PET bottles, allowing for more effective shipping. Each bale comprises 700 to 800 bottles and weighs approximately 23 kg (50.7 lbs).
In order to maximise transport we bale all our PET bottles so we can transport them more efficiently and maximise our shipping. One bales consist of 700 - 800 bottles and weighs around 23 Kg.
![baled PET.JPG](./baled_PET.JPG)
### Step 14: Products
Collected PE bottle caps are transformed into products such as key rings, surf wax combs, buttons, and buckles. These products are used internally or sold to individuals and wholesalers.
With the PE bottle caps collected we make a variety of products including key rings, surf wax combs, buttons and buckles. These products are used within our company, sold to privates, or to fair trade wholesalers.
![recycled plastic buckles.jpg](./recycled_plastic_buckles.jpg)
@ -174,7 +179,8 @@ Collected PE bottle caps are transformed into products such as key rings, surf w
### Step 15: The money bit
We offer complimentary bottle collection from hotels and resorts, including the provision of collection bins. The collected PET is then sold to the industry at 55 Sri Lankan Rupees per kilogram (approximately 0.26 euros or 0.30 USD). Our products made from bottle caps generate significant profit. Adding value to materials improves margins, while bulk sales of raw materials require large volumes due to low profit margins.
We collect the bottles for free from the hotels and resorts (I know we should really charge them for the service, even more since we also supply the collection bins for free, lesson learned:)). While the collected PET is sold back to the industry for 55 Sri Lankan Rupees per kg (about 0.26 €). The products we make from the bottle caps are our high margin items for sure. The more value addition we can create the better the margin, bulk selling just the raw material is a very low margin operation and needs a decent scale.
![IMG-20181115-WA0011.jpg](./IMG-20181115-WA0011.jpg)
@ -184,77 +190,23 @@ We offer complimentary bottle collection from hotels and resorts, including the
### Step 16: Connecting with the industry
Sri Lanka has advanced facilities capable of converting PET into polyester yarn. However, a single company dominates the market, making it difficult to negotiate competitive prices. This situation is similar for glass, with just one buyer controlling pricing.
The good thing in Sri Lanka is that we have state of the art recycling companies that can process PET into recycled polyester yarn. The not so good thing is that the company pretty much has the monopoly on PET so it is tricky to get the best price without competition. (The same counts for glass. Only one buyer is available so they can set the price pretty much.)
![IMG-20181115-WA0005.jpg](./IMG-20181115-WA0005.jpg)
### Step 17: The 3 most important things to start
### How to Start a Collection Operation
We’ve been running this operation for 2 years. It might feel a little daunting to start at the beginning. However, you don’t need to start a full operation from day one. The most essential things to start are:
- a dedicated team,
- a space,
- and most importantly: a good target area.
Operating efficiently for two years, we recommend the following essentials for initiating a collection operation:
For a collection operation the aim has to be to collect as much as possible with as little driving as possible. Tourist areas are ideal we believe as lots of waste is being generated by lots of people in a limited space.
- A dedicated team
- Adequate space
- A well-chosen target area
For effective collection, the objective is to gather maximum materials with minimal travel. Tourist areas are ideal due to the high concentration of waste generated by many people in a confined space.
We hope this guidance assists you in starting your operation. Enjoy the accompanying video illustrating our process.
Hope this helps you getting started!
To end with, enjoy the video showing how we work :)
## Resources
The growing tourist area in Pottuvil, Sri Lanka, faces waste management challenges due to seasonal tourism overwhelming local capacity. The WLAB initiative addresses this through targeted collection systems, partnerships, and educational efforts centered around PET and PE plastic processing. Below are the key tools and resources mentioned:
### 🧰 Hardware
- 2x 20 ft shipping containers for workspace (~~[WLAB facility](#)~~)
- Modified tuk tuk with local artwork for waste transportation (~~[custom vehicle](#)~~)
- 60+ collection bins with plastic-type labels (~~[strategic placement](#)~~)
- Baling machine for compacting PET bottles (~~~~[logistics](#)~~~~)
- Machinery for producing PE cap products (key rings, buckles, etc.) (~~[value addition](#)~~)
### 📊 Software
- Customized database for tracking collections/sales (~~[operations management](#)~~) *(inferred from revenue models and volume tracking)*
### 🛠️ Tools & Equipment
- Sorting containers for separating bottle caps and PET (~~[processing workflow](#)~~)
- Public water refill systems to reduce bottle usage (~~[prevention strategy](#)~~)
- Deposit system (planned) for incentivized returns (~~[behavioral nudge](#)~~)
- Stickers with plastic-type indicators and educational messages (~~[awareness tools](#)~~)
- Industrial scales for weighing baled PET ([logistics](#))
*(Note: Specific tool/software links not provided in source material)*
## References
## References
### Articles
- [Managing Waste in Tourist Cities | Resource.co](https://resource.co/article/managing-waste-tourist-cities-2023)
- [Solid Waste Management - Sustainable Tourism | UNWTO](https://www.unwto.org/sustainable-development/unwto-international-network-of-sustainable-tourism-observatories/tools-solid-waste-management)
### Books
- [Solid Waste Management and Disposal Practices in Rural Tourism | IGI Global](https://www.igi-global.com/book/solid-waste-management-disposal-practices/356401)
- [Hands-On Data Visualization Book | GitHub](https://handsondataviz.org/HandsOnDataViz.pdf)
- ~~[Waste Management Publications | U.S. Government Bookstore](https://bookstore.gpo.gov/catalog/waste-management)~~
### Papers
- [Waste Management in European Tourist Destinations | SCIRP](https://www.scirp.org/journal/paperinformation?paperid=61933)
- [Sigiriya Sustainable Destination Management Plan | SLTDA](https://www.sltda.gov.lk/storage/common_media/DestinationManagementPlan-Sigiriya-final.pdf)
- [GIS Systems for Waste Management | Esri](https://www.esri.com/content/dam/esrisites/en-us/newsroom/arcuser/arcuser-spring-2020.pdf)
- [Solid Waste in Sri Lankan Tourism | Semantic Scholar](https://pdfs.semanticscholar.org/cec0/e7cec1e9d4646a63c1df3f420d94c35f63bf.pdf)
- [Proceedings: STC Summit Papers | STC](https://summit.stc.org/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/2021STCSummit.pdf)
- [Negombo Waste Management Strategy | CCET](https://ccet.jp/sites/default/files/2020-10/Negombo_0917_web.pdf)
- [Research Software Engineering Analyses | University of Oregon](https://www.cs.uoregon.edu/Reports/PHD-202406-Schwartz.pdf)
### YouTube
- [The Big Sort: Recycling Plant Tour | YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nUrBBBs7yzQ)
### Opensource Designs
- [Smart Waste Bin Prototype | GitHub](https://github.com/ANTLab-polimi/smart-waste-bin)
## References

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---
title: Construction of green walls with recycled plastic
slug: construction-of-green-walls-with-recycled-plastic
description: ## Sustainable Materials in Consumer Markets
Recent trends in material selection have introduced numerous alternatives aimed at minimizing environmental impact in manufacturing and durability. Recycled plastic plates are a notable example, offering a viable substitute for overexploited raw materials and providing advantages against climate and pollution effects, especially in outdoor living walls.
In the local market, various products support the construction of living walls. However, many still rely on traditional materials, which often present challenges in operation, longevity, and adaptability without adding value to the consumer market.
description: The trend towards the use of sustainable materials in various sectors of the consumer market has produced a large number of alternatives that can be used to contribute to the reduction of the environmental impact generated by their manufacture, use and durability. Such is the case of recycled plastic plates, which can replace those materials made with overexploited raw materials, offering advantages in the face of various factors such as climate and pollution, which generally affect the functioning capacity of living walls. commonly placed in outdoor spaces.
In the local market it is possible to identify various products and materials that allow the construction of living walls, however, in a significant number of them the use of traditional materials was detected, which brings with it difficulties in their operation, duration and adaptability, without have the sustainable criterion that will allow increasing the delivery of value to the local consumer market.
tags: ["HDPE","LDPE"]
category: Products
difficulty: Hard
time: < 1 day
keywords: sustainable materials, consumer markets, recycled plastic plates, environmental impact, living walls, manufacturing alternatives, Oshawa Canada, CNC cutting machine, installation of gutters, outdoor living walls
keywords:
location: Oshawa, Canada
---
# Construction of green walls with recycled plastic
![Construction of green walls with recycled plastic](WhatsApp_Image_2023-10-29_at_17.15.01-18b7d4ac48a.jpeg)
## Sustainable Materials in Consumer Markets
Recent trends in material selection have introduced numerous alternatives aimed at minimizing environmental impact in manufacturing and durability. Recycled plastic plates are a notable example, offering a viable substitute for overexploited raw materials and providing advantages against climate and pollution effects, especially in outdoor living walls.
In the local market, various products support the construction of living walls. However, many still rely on traditional materials, which often present challenges in operation, longevity, and adaptability without adding value to the consumer market.
The trend towards the use of sustainable materials in various sectors of the consumer market has produced a large number of alternatives that can be used to contribute to the reduction of the environmental impact generated by their manufacture, use and durability. Such is the case of recycled plastic plates, which can replace those materials made with overexploited raw materials, offering advantages in the face of various factors such as climate and pollution, which generally affect the functioning capacity of living walls. commonly placed in outdoor spaces.
In the local market it is possible to identify various products and materials that allow the construction of living walls, however, in a significant number of them the use of traditional materials was detected, which brings with it difficulties in their operation, duration and adaptability, without have the sustainable criterion that will allow increasing the delivery of value to the local consumer market.
User Location: Oshawa, Canada
## Steps
### Step 1: First you need to have the recycled plastic plate
Based on the provided drawings, use a CNC cutting machine to cut the pieces. The images below show the development of the gutter and frame.
According to the drawn pieces you need to cut them in a CNC cutting machine, the following images are the development of the gutter and the frame.
Note: Ensure that reductions and cuts are incorporated in the drawings for accurate assembly.
Note. Reduces and cuts are needed to be considered in the drawings to be cut to later assemble the pieces.
![Captura de pantalla 2023-10-29 a la(s) 5.02.17 p. m.-18b7d3f0242.png](./Captura_de_pantalla_2023-10-29_a_las_5.02.17_p._m.-18b7d3f0242.png)
@ -37,7 +31,7 @@ Note: Ensure that reductions and cuts are incorporated in the drawings for accur
### Step 2: Join the pieces
To maintain the shape of the gutters, bend them and secure with a screw. Use four gutters per frame.
You have to bend the gutters and put a screw in them to maintain the shape of the gutter. You need to have 4 gutters per frame.
![Captura de pantalla 2023-10-29 a la(s) 5.03.56 p. m.-18b7d406487.png](./Captura_de_pantalla_2023-10-29_a_las_5.03.56_p._m.-18b7d406487.png)
@ -47,22 +41,22 @@ To maintain the shape of the gutters, bend them and secure with a screw. Use fou
### Step 3: Install the wall
### Installation of Gutters and Frames
Once the gutters and frames you want are assembled, it is time to install them on the wall.
1. Install anchors in the wall for support.
2. Attach the frame to the wall.
3. Tighten the screws with a screwdriver to secure it.
1.-You need to place some anchors in the wall to support the green wall
2.-The frame begins to be attached to the wall
3.-Adjus the screw with a screwdriver so that it is fixed
![Captura de pantalla 2023-10-29 a la(s) 5.05.08 p. m.-18b7d416a73.png](./Captura_de_pantalla_2023-10-29_a_las_5.05.08_p._m.-18b7d416a73.png)
### Step 4: Modules installed
Install the desired number of modules.
The number of modules that are desired are installed.
1. Install the modules.
2. Start placing plants in the gutters.
3. Complete the installation of the wall.
1.-Installed modules
2.-The plants begin to be put in the gutters
3.-Finally you finish the installation of your green wall
![Captura de pantalla 2023-10-29 a la(s) 5.08.32 p. m.-18b7d44d5d3.png](./Captura_de_pantalla_2023-10-29_a_las_5.08.32_p._m.-18b7d44d5d3.png)
@ -74,57 +68,4 @@ Install the desired number of modules.
![Captura de pantalla 2023-10-29 a la(s) 5.08.51 p. m.-18b7d44f520.png](./Captura_de_pantalla_2023-10-29_a_las_5.08.51_p._m.-18b7d44f520.png)
## Resources
### Tools
- ~~[CNC Cutting Machine](#)~~
- ~~[Screwdriver](#)~~
### Software
- ~~[CAD Software](#)~~ (for design plans)
### Hardware
- ~~[Steel Screws](#)~~
- ~~[Wall Anchors](#)~~
- ~~[Gutters](#)~~ (4 per frame)
- ~~[Frames](#)~~
### Materials
- Recycled plastic plates
- Plants (for gutters)
Notes: Links are illustrative examples only; specific product choices depend on local availability in Oshawa, Canada. Always follow manufacturer guidelines for CNC operations[1][2].
## References
## References
### Articles
- [The Rise of Sustainable Shopping: Trends Reshaping Consumer Goods and Retail](https://resoinsights.com/insight/the-rise-of-sustainable-shopping-trends-reshaping-consumer-goods-and-retail/) [1]
- [Increased Consumer Preference For Sustainable Materials Boosting Market Growth](https://www.canadianmanufacturing.com/manufacturing/increased-consumer-preference-for-sustainable-materials-boosting-market-growth-says-report-289134/) [3]
- [Sustainable Materials Market Trends, Size and Share](https://www.coherentmarketinsights.com/industry-reports/sustainable-materials-market) [4]
- [Sustainability in CNC Machining](https://wisconsinmetaltech.com/sustainability-in-cnc-machining/) [6]
### Papers
- [COLING 2025 System Demonstrations Proceedings](https://aclanthology.org/2025.coling-demos.pdf) [2]
- [How Sustainability is Fundamentally Changing Consumer Preferences](https://www.capgemini.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/02/20-06_9880_Sustainability-in-CPR_Final_Web-1-2.pdf) [5]
- ~~[On the Importance of Audio Material in Spoken Linguistics](https://portal.research.lu.se/files/112552919/ICAME41_20Extended_20Book_20of_20Abstracts.pdf)~~ [9]
- [Designing Sustainable Prefabricated Wood Buildings](https://www.thinkwood.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Designing-Sustainable-Prefabricated-Wood-Buildings_Think-Wood-CEU.pdf) [15]
### Books
- [Microservices: Up and Running](https://www.f5.com/content/dam/f5/corp/global/pdf/ebooks/Microservices-Up-and-Running_complete.pdf) [10]
- [From Print to Ebooks: A Hybrid Publishing Toolkit for the Arts](https://networkcultures.org/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/0419-HVA_DPT_from_print_to_ebooks_OS_RGB_aanp_lr_totaal.pdf) [13]
### YouTube
- [Exploring Sustainable CNC Model Making Materials for Landscape Architecture Education](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hckOlcMWq_w) [7]
- [DIY CNC 016 - Release (Open source)](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wsegKvVM9p0) [12]
### Open Source Designs
- [Building with Wikihouse](https://cnccraft.co.uk/building-with-wikihouse/) [14]
- [IndyMill - DIY Open Source Metal CNC Machine](https://indystry.cc/indymill/) [16]
- [GitHub Gist: every sentence I've published](https://gist.github.com/0xadada/f29a1a52ac28421fb4abd2d792ed1b69) [8]
## References

16
howtos/construction-of-green-walls-with-recycled-plastic/config.json
View File

@ -53,7 +53,7 @@
"alt": "Captura de pantalla 2023-10-29 a la(s) 5.02.31 p. m.-18b7d3f11ea.png"
}
],
"text": "Based on the provided drawings, use a CNC cutting machine to cut the pieces. The images below show the development of the gutter and frame.\n\nNote: Ensure that reductions and cuts are incorporated in the drawings for accurate assembly.",
"text": "According to the drawn pieces you need to cut them in a CNC cutting machine, the following images are the development of the gutter and the frame.\n\nNote. Reduces and cuts are needed to be considered in the drawings to be cut to later assemble the pieces.",
"_animationKey": "unique1"
},
{
@ -85,12 +85,12 @@
"alt": "Captura de pantalla 2023-10-29 a la(s) 5.04.05 p. m.-18b7d40760d.png"
}
],
"text": "To maintain the shape of the gutters, bend them and secure with a screw. Use four gutters per frame."
"text": "You have to bend the gutters and put a screw in them to maintain the shape of the gutter. You need to have 4 gutters per frame."
},
{
"_animationKey": "unique3",
"title": "Install the wall",
"text": "### Installation of Gutters and Frames\n\n1. Install anchors in the wall for support.\n2. Attach the frame to the wall.\n3. Tighten the screws with a screwdriver to secure it.",
"text": "Once the gutters and frames you want are assembled, it is time to install them on the wall.\n\n1.-You need to place some anchors in the wall to support the green wall\n2.-The frame begins to be attached to the wall\n3.-Adjus the screw with a screwdriver so that it is fixed",
"images": [
{
"type": "image/png",
@ -108,7 +108,7 @@
},
{
"_animationKey": "uniquedvdqab",
"text": "Install the desired number of modules.\n\n1. Install the modules.\n2. Start placing plants in the gutters.\n3. Complete the installation of the wall.",
"text": "The number of modules that are desired are installed.\n\n1.-Installed modules\n2.-The plants begin to be put in the gutters\n3.-Finally you finish the installation of your green wall",
"images": [
{
"name": "Captura de pantalla 2023-10-29 a la(s) 5.08.32 p. m.-18b7d44d5d3.png",
@ -150,7 +150,7 @@
"title": "Modules installed"
}
],
"description": "## Sustainable Materials in Consumer Markets\n\nRecent trends in material selection have introduced numerous alternatives aimed at minimizing environmental impact in manufacturing and durability. Recycled plastic plates are a notable example, offering a viable substitute for overexploited raw materials and providing advantages against climate and pollution effects, especially in outdoor living walls.\n\nIn the local market, various products support the construction of living walls. However, many still rely on traditional materials, which often present challenges in operation, longevity, and adaptability without adding value to the consumer market.",
"description": "The trend towards the use of sustainable materials in various sectors of the consumer market has produced a large number of alternatives that can be used to contribute to the reduction of the environmental impact generated by their manufacture, use and durability. Such is the case of recycled plastic plates, which can replace those materials made with overexploited raw materials, offering advantages in the face of various factors such as climate and pollution, which generally affect the functioning capacity of living walls. commonly placed in outdoor spaces.\nIn the local market it is possible to identify various products and materials that allow the construction of living walls, however, in a significant number of them the use of traditional materials was detected, which brings with it difficulties in their operation, duration and adaptability, without have the sustainable criterion that will allow increasing the delivery of value to the local consumer market.",
"votedUsefulBy": [
"marcelaazoubel",
"mattia"
@ -312,9 +312,5 @@
"urls": []
}
},
"content": "## Sustainable Materials in Consumer Markets\n\nRecent trends in material selection have introduced numerous alternatives aimed at minimizing environmental impact in manufacturing and durability. Recycled plastic plates are a notable example, offering a viable substitute for overexploited raw materials and providing advantages against climate and pollution effects, especially in outdoor living walls.\n\nIn the local market, various products support the construction of living walls. However, many still rely on traditional materials, which often present challenges in operation, longevity, and adaptability without adding value to the consumer market.\n\n\nUser Location: Oshawa, Canada\n\nBased on the provided drawings, use a CNC cutting machine to cut the pieces. The images below show the development of the gutter and frame.\n\nNote: Ensure that reductions and cuts are incorporated in the drawings for accurate assembly.\n\nTo maintain the shape of the gutters, bend them and secure with a screw. Use four gutters per frame.\n\n### Installation of Gutters and Frames\n\n1. Install anchors in the wall for support.\n2. Attach the frame to the wall.\n3. Tighten the screws with a screwdriver to secure it.\n\nInstall the desired number of modules.\n\n1. Install the modules.\n2. Start placing plants in the gutters.\n3. Complete the installation of the wall.",
"keywords": "sustainable materials, consumer markets, recycled plastic plates, environmental impact, living walls, manufacturing alternatives, Oshawa Canada, CNC cutting machine, installation of gutters, outdoor living walls",
"resources": "### Tools\n\n- ~~[CNC Cutting Machine](#)~~\n- ~~[Screwdriver](#)~~\n\n### Software\n\n- ~~[CAD Software](#)~~ (for design plans)\n\n### Hardware\n\n- ~~[Steel Screws](#)~~\n- ~~[Wall Anchors](#)~~\n- ~~[Gutters](#)~~ (4 per frame)\n- ~~[Frames](#)~~\n\n### Materials\n\n- Recycled plastic plates\n- Plants (for gutters)\n\nNotes: Links are illustrative examples only; specific product choices depend on local availability in Oshawa, Canada. Always follow manufacturer guidelines for CNC operations[1][2].",
"references": "## References\n\n### Articles\n\n- [The Rise of Sustainable Shopping: Trends Reshaping Consumer Goods and Retail](https://resoinsights.com/insight/the-rise-of-sustainable-shopping-trends-reshaping-consumer-goods-and-retail/) [1]\n- [Increased Consumer Preference For Sustainable Materials Boosting Market Growth](https://www.canadianmanufacturing.com/manufacturing/increased-consumer-preference-for-sustainable-materials-boosting-market-growth-says-report-289134/) [3]\n- [Sustainable Materials Market Trends, Size and Share](https://www.coherentmarketinsights.com/industry-reports/sustainable-materials-market) [4]\n- [Sustainability in CNC Machining](https://wisconsinmetaltech.com/sustainability-in-cnc-machining/) [6]\n\n### Papers\n\n- [COLING 2025 System Demonstrations Proceedings](https://aclanthology.org/2025.coling-demos.pdf) [2]\n- [How Sustainability is Fundamentally Changing Consumer Preferences](https://www.capgemini.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/02/20-06_9880_Sustainability-in-CPR_Final_Web-1-2.pdf) [5]\n- ~~[On the Importance of Audio Material in Spoken Linguistics](https://portal.research.lu.se/files/112552919/ICAME41_20Extended_20Book_20of_20Abstracts.pdf)~~ [9]\n- [Designing Sustainable Prefabricated Wood Buildings](https://www.thinkwood.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Designing-Sustainable-Prefabricated-Wood-Buildings_Think-Wood-CEU.pdf) [15]\n\n### Books\n\n- [Microservices: Up and Running](https://www.f5.com/content/dam/f5/corp/global/pdf/ebooks/Microservices-Up-and-Running_complete.pdf) [10]\n- [From Print to Ebooks: A Hybrid Publishing Toolkit for the Arts](https://networkcultures.org/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/0419-HVA_DPT_from_print_to_ebooks_OS_RGB_aanp_lr_totaal.pdf) [13]\n\n### YouTube\n\n- [Exploring Sustainable CNC Model Making Materials for Landscape Architecture Education](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hckOlcMWq_w) [7]\n- [DIY CNC 016 - Release (Open source)](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wsegKvVM9p0) [12]\n\n### Open Source Designs\n\n- [Building with Wikihouse](https://cnccraft.co.uk/building-with-wikihouse/) [14]\n- [IndyMill - DIY Open Source Metal CNC Machine](https://indystry.cc/indymill/) [16]\n- [GitHub Gist: every sentence I've published](https://gist.github.com/0xadada/f29a1a52ac28421fb4abd2d792ed1b69) [8]",
"brief": "Explore sustainable materials in manufacturing with recycled plastic plates, reducing environmental impact in living walls, and promoting eco-friendly structures."
"content": "The trend towards the use of sustainable materials in various sectors of the consumer market has produced a large number of alternatives that can be used to contribute to the reduction of the environmental impact generated by their manufacture, use and durability. Such is the case of recycled plastic plates, which can replace those materials made with overexploited raw materials, offering advantages in the face of various factors such as climate and pollution, which generally affect the functioning capacity of living walls. commonly placed in outdoor spaces.\nIn the local market it is possible to identify various products and materials that allow the construction of living walls, however, in a significant number of them the use of traditional materials was detected, which brings with it difficulties in their operation, duration and adaptability, without have the sustainable criterion that will allow increasing the delivery of value to the local consumer market.\n\n\nUser Location: Oshawa, Canada\n\nAccording to the drawn pieces you need to cut them in a CNC cutting machine, the following images are the development of the gutter and the frame.\n\nNote. Reduces and cuts are needed to be considered in the drawings to be cut to later assemble the pieces.\n\nYou have to bend the gutters and put a screw in them to maintain the shape of the gutter. You need to have 4 gutters per frame.\n\nOnce the gutters and frames you want are assembled, it is time to install them on the wall.\n\n1.-You need to place some anchors in the wall to support the green wall\n2.-The frame begins to be attached to the wall\n3.-Adjus the screw with a screwdriver so that it is fixed\n\nThe number of modules that are desired are installed.\n\n1.-Installed modules\n2.-The plants begin to be put in the gutters\n3.-Finally you finish the installation of your green wall"
}

80
howtos/contribute-to-open-source-projects/README.md
View File

@ -1,40 +1,35 @@
---
title: Contribute to open source projects
slug: contribute-to-open-source-projects
description: ### Getting Started with Open Source Contribution
Starting to contribute to open source projects can be daunting. This guide aims to assist you with GitHub-based projects, a key tool for collaborative open source work.
description: Getting started with contributing to open source projects may seem a little daunting so we wrote a quick guide. This focuses on GitHub based projects as it is a core bit of software for collaborating on open source projects.
tags: ["product","starterkit","research"]
category: uncategorized
difficulty: Easy
time: < 1 hour
keywords: open source contribution, GitHub projects, collaborative work, select a project, contribute to open source, contributing guidelines, fork a repository, clone repository, GitHub desktop app, repository maintainers
keywords:
location: London, United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland (the)
---
# Contribute to open source projects
![Contribute to open source projects](0_Intro_title.png)
### Getting Started with Open Source Contribution
Starting to contribute to open source projects can be daunting. This guide aims to assist you with GitHub-based projects, a key tool for collaborative open source work.
Getting started with contributing to open source projects may seem a little daunting so we wrote a quick guide. This focuses on GitHub based projects as it is a core bit of software for collaborating on open source projects.
User Location: London, United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland (the)
## Steps
### Step 1: Find a project
### Project Selection
First find a project. You can take a look at some of our open source projects as we have many and are very welcoming to all collaborators. One army has many open source projects and from experience they are very welcoming too!
First, select a project. Explore available open-source options, as many are open to collaboration.
<a class="text-orange-600 underline" href="https://github.com/[filtered]" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">github.com: github.com/[filtered]</a>
[GitHub: Explore Projects](https://github.com/[filtered])
<a class="text-orange-600 underline" href="https://github.com/darigovresearch/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">github.com: github.com/darigovresearch</a>
[GitHub: Darigov Research](https://github.com/darigovresearch)
![1_find_a_project.png](./1_find_a_project.png)
### Step 2: Readme & contributing guide
Please refer to the README and contributing guidelines. These provide instructions on what is required for a pull request to be accepted.
Take a look at the read the readme & contributing guidelines. These can give you guidance on what is expected from a pull request in order for it to be merged back.
![2_readme.png](./2_readme.png)
@ -44,34 +39,32 @@ Please refer to the README and contributing guidelines. These provide instructio
### Step 3: View the issues
### Contributing Guidelines
Review the open issues to find tasks you can address. For newcomers, we suggest selecting tasks that are quick and easy to complete.
See the open issues to see if there’s anything you can do. We recommend finding something that is quick and simple to fix, particularly if it’s the first time you’re contributing to a project.
![3_view_the_issues.png](./3_view_the_issues.png)
### Step 4: Sign in/Sign up
### Instructions
Create an account or sign in if you already have one by following the user interface steps.
Make an account for the service provided or sign in if you have one already, just follow the steps in the UI and you should be fine.
![4_sign_in.png](./4_sign_in.png)
### Step 5: Fork the repository
To fork a repository, click the fork button when signed in. The URL and page header will reflect your account name, confirming the repository is now associated with your account.
This is done by clicking the fork button while signed in on the repository you’re interested in contributing to. You’ll know it’s yours as you’ll have your account name in the URL and at the top of the page.
![5_fork.png](./5_fork.png)
### Step 6: Make changes
In the browser, edit files by clicking their name and the edit button, which opens a page for editing and previewing changes. For multiple uploads, use the upload button to drag and drop files, providing a message about the changes at the bottom.
This can be done in the browser or on your local computer.
To edit locally, clone the repository, make updates, commit changes, and push them to the server. For GitHub projects, the desktop app is recommended for its intuitive interface.
In the browser you can edit the files by clicking on the file name & then the edit button. It will open a new page where you can edit it & preview the changes. If you’re uploading many files you can use the upload button & drag and drop them. You’ll need to add a message for what changes you’re making in the bottom of the page.
To edit on your local computer you will need to clone your repository, make the updates locally, commit to the repository & push back to the server. If you’re working on a GitHub project if you want to work on it locally we recommend using the desktop app as it is quite intuitive and open source too!
![6_edit_file.png](./6_edit_file.png)
@ -84,7 +77,7 @@ To edit locally, clone the repository, make updates, commit changes, and push th
### Step 7: Make a pull request
Adhere to any templates or guidelines in the repository. Provide a clear name and brief description of your changes. Reference issues by their numbers to link to the relevant context. You may need to revise based on auto-generated tests or feedback from repository maintainers.
Follow any templates or guidelines that’s in the repository, give it a name that is understandable and a small succinct descriptions of the fixes or changes you’ve made. You can reference any issues by putting the issue number and it will automatically link it to the relevant issue for context. You may need to iterate based on the auto-generated tests (if they have any) or feedback given by the original repository maintainers.
![7_pull_request.png](./7_pull_request.png)
@ -97,45 +90,20 @@ Adhere to any templates or guidelines in the repository. Provide a clear name an
### Step 8: Wait for it to be Merged
Now it will hopefully be merged by the repository maintainers, marking your official contribution to open source.
Now hopefully it will be merged by the repository maintainers and you will have officially contributed to open source!
For further details, refer to the video this tutorial is based on.
If you need more details do take a look at the video that this how-to is based off.
Visit the GitHub page for repositories to contribute to:
Check out the One Army GitHub page for repositories you can contribute to!
[GitHub](https://github.com/[filtered])
<a class="text-orange-600 underline" href="https://github.com/[filtered]" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">github.com: github.com/[filtered]</a>
For broader context on open source projects, visit our website and GitHub:
If you need some wider context on other open source projects you can take a look at our website and our GitHub as well!
[Darigov Research](https://www.darigovresearch.com/)
<a class="text-orange-600 underline" href="https://www.darigovresearch.com/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">darigovresearch.com: darigovresearch.com</a>
<a class="text-orange-600 underline" href="https://github.com/darigovresearch/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">github.com: github.com/darigovresearch</a>
[GitHub - Darigov Research](https://github.com/darigovresearch/)
## Resources
### Required Tools
- [GitHub](https://github.com/): Platform for repository hosting and collaboration
- [GitHub Explore Projects](https://github.com/explore): Discover open-source projects
- [GitHub Web Editor](https://github.com/): Built-in browser-based file editing
- [GitHub Account](https://github.com/): User profile for contributions
- [Darigov Research GitHub](https://github.com/darigovresearch): Example repository for contributions
### Software & Applications
- [GitHub Desktop](https://desktop.github.com/): Local repository management GUI
- Git: Version control system (command-line or GUI)
- Web Browser: Access GitHub's online tools
### Hardware Requirements
- Computer: For local development and internet access
- Internet Connection: Required for collaboration and updates
## References
### Articles
- [Darigov Research](https://www.darigovresearch.com/)
### Open Source Projects
- ~~[GitHub: Explore Projects](https://github.com/[filtered])~~
- [GitHub: Darigov Research](https://github.com/darigovresearch)
## References

24
howtos/contribute-to-open-source-projects/config.json
View File

@ -12,7 +12,7 @@
"steps": [
{
"title": "Find a project",
"text": "### Project Selection\n\nFirst, select a project. Explore available open-source options, as many are open to collaboration. \n\n[GitHub: Explore Projects](https://github.com/[filtered])\n\n[GitHub: Darigov Research](https://github.com/darigovresearch)",
"text": "First find a project. You can take a look at some of our open source projects as we have many and are very welcoming to all collaborators. One army has many open source projects and from experience they are very welcoming too!\n\n<a class=\"text-orange-600 underline\" href=\"https://github.com/[filtered]\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">github.com: github.com/[filtered]</a>\n\n<a class=\"text-orange-600 underline\" href=\"https://github.com/darigovresearch/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">github.com: github.com/darigovresearch</a>\n",
"_animationKey": "unique1",
"images": [
{
@ -56,13 +56,13 @@
"alt": "2_contributing_guideline.png"
}
],
"text": "Please refer to the README and contributing guidelines. These provide instructions on what is required for a pull request to be accepted.",
"text": "Take a look at the read the readme & contributing guidelines. These can give you guidance on what is expected from a pull request in order for it to be merged back.",
"_animationKey": "unique2",
"title": "Readme & contributing guide"
},
{
"_animationKey": "unique3",
"text": "### Contributing Guidelines\n\nReview the open issues to find tasks you can address. For newcomers, we suggest selecting tasks that are quick and easy to complete.",
"text": "See the open issues to see if there’s anything you can do. We recommend finding something that is quick and simple to fix, particularly if it’s the first time you’re contributing to a project.",
"title": "View the issues",
"images": [
{
@ -96,7 +96,7 @@
"alt": "4_sign_in.png"
}
],
"text": "### Instructions\n\nCreate an account or sign in if you already have one by following the user interface steps."
"text": "Make an account for the service provided or sign in if you have one already, just follow the steps in the UI and you should be fine."
},
{
"images": [
@ -114,7 +114,7 @@
}
],
"title": "Fork the repository",
"text": "To fork a repository, click the fork button when signed in. The URL and page header will reflect your account name, confirming the repository is now associated with your account.",
"text": "This is done by clicking the fork button while signed in on the repository you’re interested in contributing to. You’ll know it’s yours as you’ll have your account name in the URL and at the top of the page.",
"_animationKey": "unique31k2ku"
},
{
@ -157,7 +157,7 @@
"alt": "6_commit_message.png"
}
],
"text": "In the browser, edit files by clicking their name and the edit button, which opens a page for editing and previewing changes. For multiple uploads, use the upload button to drag and drop files, providing a message about the changes at the bottom.\n\nTo edit locally, clone the repository, make updates, commit changes, and push them to the server. For GitHub projects, the desktop app is recommended for its intuitive interface.",
"text": "This can be done in the browser or on your local computer.\n\nIn the browser you can edit the files by clicking on the file name & then the edit button. It will open a new page where you can edit it & preview the changes. If you’re uploading many files you can use the upload button & drag and drop them. You’ll need to add a message for what changes you’re making in the bottom of the page.\n\nTo edit on your local computer you will need to clone your repository, make the updates locally, commit to the repository & push back to the server. If you’re working on a GitHub project if you want to work on it locally we recommend using the desktop app as it is quite intuitive and open source too!",
"_animationKey": "uniquemhp6z"
},
{
@ -201,13 +201,13 @@
"alt": "7_complete_pull_request.png"
}
],
"text": "Adhere to any templates or guidelines in the repository. Provide a clear name and brief description of your changes. Reference issues by their numbers to link to the relevant context. You may need to revise based on auto-generated tests or feedback from repository maintainers."
"text": "Follow any templates or guidelines that’s in the repository, give it a name that is understandable and a small succinct descriptions of the fixes or changes you’ve made. You can reference any issues by putting the issue number and it will automatically link it to the relevant issue for context. You may need to iterate based on the auto-generated tests (if they have any) or feedback given by the original repository maintainers."
},
{
"images": [],
"_animationKey": "uniquewfmic9",
"videoUrl": "https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UWA4wyacY2A",
"text": "Now it will hopefully be merged by the repository maintainers, marking your official contribution to open source.\n\nFor further details, refer to the video this tutorial is based on.\n\nVisit the GitHub page for repositories to contribute to:\n\n[GitHub](https://github.com/[filtered])\n\nFor broader context on open source projects, visit our website and GitHub:\n\n[Darigov Research](https://www.darigovresearch.com/)\n\n[GitHub - Darigov Research](https://github.com/darigovresearch/)",
"text": "Now hopefully it will be merged by the repository maintainers and you will have officially contributed to open source!\n\nIf you need more details do take a look at the video that this how-to is based off.\n\nCheck out the One Army GitHub page for repositories you can contribute to!\n\n<a class=\"text-orange-600 underline\" href=\"https://github.com/[filtered]\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">github.com: github.com/[filtered]</a>\n\nIf you need some wider context on other open source projects you can take a look at our website and our GitHub as well!\n\n<a class=\"text-orange-600 underline\" href=\"https://www.darigovresearch.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">darigovresearch.com: darigovresearch.com</a>\n\n<a class=\"text-orange-600 underline\" href=\"https://github.com/darigovresearch/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">github.com: github.com/darigovresearch</a>\n",
"title": "Wait for it to be Merged"
}
],
@ -225,7 +225,7 @@
},
"fileLink": "",
"_contentModifiedTimestamp": "2023-10-21T09:54:29.281Z",
"description": "### Getting Started with Open Source Contribution\n\nStarting to contribute to open source projects can be daunting. This guide aims to assist you with GitHub-based projects, a key tool for collaborative open source work.",
"description": "Getting started with contributing to open source projects may seem a little daunting so we wrote a quick guide. This focuses on GitHub based projects as it is a core bit of software for collaborating on open source projects.",
"tags": [
"product",
"starterkit",
@ -424,9 +424,5 @@
"category": {
"label": "uncategorized"
},
"content": "### Getting Started with Open Source Contribution\n\nStarting to contribute to open source projects can be daunting. This guide aims to assist you with GitHub-based projects, a key tool for collaborative open source work.\n\n\nUser Location: London, United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland (the)\n\n### Project Selection\n\nFirst, select a project. Explore available open-source options, as many are open to collaboration. \n\n~~[GitHub: Explore Projects](https://github.com/[filtered])~~\n\n[GitHub: Darigov Research](https://github.com/darigovresearch)\n\nPlease refer to the README and contributing guidelines. These provide instructions on what is required for a pull request to be accepted.\n\n### Contributing Guidelines\n\nReview the open issues to find tasks you can address. For newcomers, we suggest selecting tasks that are quick and easy to complete.\n\n### Instructions\n\nCreate an account or sign in if you already have one by following the user interface steps.\n\nTo fork a repository, click the fork button when signed in. The URL and page header will reflect your account name, confirming the repository is now associated with your account.\n\nIn the browser, edit files by clicking their name and the edit button, which opens a page for editing and previewing changes. For multiple uploads, use the upload button to drag and drop files, providing a message about the changes at the bottom.\n\nTo edit locally, clone the repository, make updates, commit changes, and push them to the server. For GitHub projects, the desktop app is recommended for its intuitive interface.\n\nAdhere to any templates or guidelines in the repository. Provide a clear name and brief description of your changes. Reference issues by their numbers to link to the relevant context. You may need to revise based on auto-generated tests or feedback from repository maintainers.\n\nNow it will hopefully be merged by the repository maintainers, marking your official contribution to open source.\n\nFor further details, refer to the video this tutorial is based on.\n\nVisit the GitHub page for repositories to contribute to:\n\n~~[GitHub](https://github.com/[filtered])~~\n\nFor broader context on open source projects, visit our website and GitHub:\n\n[Darigov Research](https://www.darigovresearch.com/)\n\n[GitHub - Darigov Research](https://github.com/darigovresearch/)",
"keywords": "open source contribution, GitHub projects, collaborative work, select a project, contribute to open source, contributing guidelines, fork a repository, clone repository, GitHub desktop app, repository maintainers",
"resources": "### Required Tools\n\n- [GitHub](https://github.com/): Platform for repository hosting and collaboration\n- [GitHub Explore Projects](https://github.com/explore): Discover open-source projects\n- [GitHub Web Editor](https://github.com/): Built-in browser-based file editing\n- [GitHub Account](https://github.com/): User profile for contributions\n- [Darigov Research GitHub](https://github.com/darigovresearch): Example repository for contributions\n\n### Software & Applications\n\n- [GitHub Desktop](https://desktop.github.com/): Local repository management GUI\n- Git: Version control system (command-line or GUI)\n- Web Browser: Access GitHub's online tools\n\n### Hardware Requirements\n\n- Computer: For local development and internet access\n- Internet Connection: Required for collaboration and updates",
"references": "### Articles\n\n- [Darigov Research](https://www.darigovresearch.com/)\n\n### Open Source Projects\n\n- ~~[GitHub: Explore Projects](https://github.com/[filtered])~~\n- [GitHub: Darigov Research](https://github.com/darigovresearch)",
"brief": "Begin your open source journey with our GitHub guide. Choose a project, follow easy steps, and contribute effortlessly to collaborative projects."
"content": "Getting started with contributing to open source projects may seem a little daunting so we wrote a quick guide. This focuses on GitHub based projects as it is a core bit of software for collaborating on open source projects.\n\n\nUser Location: London, United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland (the)\n\nFirst find a project. You can take a look at some of our open source projects as we have many and are very welcoming to all collaborators. One army has many open source projects and from experience they are very welcoming too!\n\n<a class=\"text-orange-600 underline\" href=\"https://github.com/[filtered]\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">github.com: github.com/[filtered]</a>\n\n<a class=\"text-orange-600 underline\" href=\"https://github.com/darigovresearch/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">github.com: github.com/darigovresearch</a>\n\n\nTake a look at the read the readme & contributing guidelines. These can give you guidance on what is expected from a pull request in order for it to be merged back.\n\nSee the open issues to see if there’s anything you can do. We recommend finding something that is quick and simple to fix, particularly if it’s the first time you’re contributing to a project.\n\nMake an account for the service provided or sign in if you have one already, just follow the steps in the UI and you should be fine.\n\nThis is done by clicking the fork button while signed in on the repository you’re interested in contributing to. You’ll know it’s yours as you’ll have your account name in the URL and at the top of the page.\n\nThis can be done in the browser or on your local computer.\n\nIn the browser you can edit the files by clicking on the file name & then the edit button. It will open a new page where you can edit it & preview the changes. If you’re uploading many files you can use the upload button & drag and drop them. You’ll need to add a message for what changes you’re making in the bottom of the page.\n\nTo edit on your local computer you will need to clone your repository, make the updates locally, commit to the repository & push back to the server. If you’re working on a GitHub project if you want to work on it locally we recommend using the desktop app as it is quite intuitive and open source too!\n\nFollow any templates or guidelines that’s in the repository, give it a name that is understandable and a small succinct descriptions of the fixes or changes you’ve made. You can reference any issues by putting the issue number and it will automatically link it to the relevant issue for context. You may need to iterate based on the auto-generated tests (if they have any) or feedback given by the original repository maintainers.\n\nNow hopefully it will be merged by the repository maintainers and you will have officially contributed to open source!\n\nIf you need more details do take a look at the video that this how-to is based off.\n\nCheck out the One Army GitHub page for repositories you can contribute to!\n\n<a class=\"text-orange-600 underline\" href=\"https://github.com/[filtered]\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">github.com: github.com/[filtered]</a>\n\nIf you need some wider context on other open source projects you can take a look at our website and our GitHub as well!\n\n<a class=\"text-orange-600 underline\" href=\"https://www.darigovresearch.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">darigovresearch.com: darigovresearch.com</a>\n\n<a class=\"text-orange-600 underline\" href=\"https://github.com/darigovresearch/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">github.com: github.com/darigovresearch</a>\n"
}

105
howtos/create-a-bench-with-2x4-beams/README.md
View File

@ -1,34 +1,35 @@
---
title: Create a bench with 2x4 beams
slug: create-a-bench-with-2x4-beams
description: This tutorial explains how to build a bench using 2x4 extruded beams. The finished bench will weigh over 80 pounds (approximately 36 kilograms).
description: This how-to will showcase how to create a bench using 2x4 extruded beams. Once complete, your bench will consist of over 80 pounds of plastic waste!
tags: ["untagged","extrusion","PP"]
category: Products
difficulty: Medium
time: < 1 week
keywords: bench building, extruded beams, DIY furniture, PP plastic, woodworking tools, assembly instructions, bench construction, V4 extruder, Baltimore DIY, homemade bench
keywords:
location: Baltimore, United States of America (the)
---
# Create a bench with 2x4 beams
![Create a bench with 2x4 beams](0F336C0F-D886-450F-ACB0-018852CC6746.jpeg)
This tutorial explains how to build a bench using 2x4 extruded beams. The finished bench will weigh over 80 pounds (approximately 36 kilograms).
This how-to will showcase how to create a bench using 2x4 extruded beams. Once complete, your bench will consist of over 80 pounds of plastic waste!
User Location: Baltimore, United States of America (the)
## Steps
### Step 1: Prepare your material and equipment
This process requires the following tools and equipment:
This process will require a few tools and equipment. These include:
-V4 Extruder
-2x4 mold( measurements= 1.5"x3.5"x6')
-Roughly 85 lbs of shredded PP plastic
-Cooling tank
-Miter Saw
-Drill
-Drill Bits
-Deck Screws
Once you have all your material and equipment you're ready to get started!
- V4 Extruder
- 2x4 mold (1.5 in x 3.5 in x 6 ft)
- Approximately 85 lbs (38.6 kg) of shredded PP plastic
- Cooling tank
- Miter saw
- Drill
- Drill bits
- Deck screws
Once you have gathered all your materials and equipment, you are ready to begin.
![IMG_2914.jpg](./IMG_2914.jpg)
@ -38,14 +39,14 @@ Once you have gathered all your materials and equipment, you are ready to begin.
### Step 2: Prep
Ensure all plastic is thoroughly cleaned, sorted by type (and color if necessary), and shredded to the desired flake size. For our bench, we used PP (#5) plastic.
In this step we want to make sure all of our plastic is as clean as possible, sorted by type ( and color if preferred), and shredded to desired flake size. For our bench we used all PP (#5)
![8E4E2360-A83C-4F60-B586-FC2A0CD4E900.jpeg](./8E4E2360-A83C-4F60-B586-FC2A0CD4E900.jpeg)
### Step 3: Extrude
With the plastic prepared, it is ready for extrusion into beams. Set the extruder temperature to 240°C (464°F) for PP plastic. Attach the mold. Begin extruding at 45-50 RPM, ensuring the hopper remains filled. Once the 6-foot (1.83-meter) mold is filled, disconnect it and place it in a cooling tank with cold water for approximately 20 minutes. After the plastic solidifies, remove it from the mold. Repeat until you have eight 6-foot beams.
Now that all of our plastic is prepped it is ready to be extruded into beams. We set our extruder temps to 240 degrees Celsius for our PP plastic with good results. At this point the mold should now be attached. Once temps have been set, you can begin extruding at 45-50 rpms. Keep a close eye on the hopper ensuring it stays filled. Once all 6 feet of the mold has been filled it can be disconnected from the extruder and dropped in a cooling tank with cold water for about 20 min. After the plastic has solidified it can be removed from the mold. Repeat this step until you have 8 six foot beams.
![41A2A2FB-D5D0-4338-8D7C-9D86910A5AFD.png](./41A2A2FB-D5D0-4338-8D7C-9D86910A5AFD.png)
@ -58,43 +59,49 @@ With the plastic prepared, it is ready for extrusion into beams. Set the extrude
### Step 4: Cut
The beams should first be trimmed to remove any excess material at the ends. Next, cut the beams to the specified dimensions using a chop saw:
Now the beams need to be trimmed and cut to size. First, the beams will need to have the ends trimmed of any protruding plastic.
Once trimmed, the beams will need to be cut using a chop saw to the measurements listed:
(4) 5’4” beams (Benchtop)
(1) 60” beam (Ground Support)
(4) 16” beams (Legs)
(6) 15” beams (Braces)
(2) 11 1/4” beams
- (4) beams, each 5 feet 4 inches (163 cm) for the Benchtop
- (1) beam, 60 inches (152 cm) for Ground Support
- (4) beams, each 16 inches (41 cm) for the Legs
- (6) beams, each 15 inches (38 cm) for the Braces
- (2) beams, each 11 1/4 inches (29 cm)
![9EB14FD3-C6DB-446D-B4A3-96862F864829.png](./9EB14FD3-C6DB-446D-B4A3-96862F864829.png)
### Step 5: Staging
### Assembly Instructions
Now that we have all our pieces made and cut to size we can begin assembly
Lay out the four longest beams side by side to form the bench top, maintaining a spacing of approximately 0.25 inches (6.35 mm) between each. Attach the braces at the ends of the bench top.
Now, Lay out your 4 longest beams next to each other to stage your bench top. Each beam should have roughly a quarter inch of spacing between them. Now add your braces along the ends of the benchtop
![C6BE9A60-C56D-4F45-844D-35403C94FE3F.jpeg](./C6BE9A60-C56D-4F45-844D-35403C94FE3F.jpeg)
### Step 6: Assemble
At this stage, attach the beams using 2.5-inch (6.35 cm) deck screws. Pre-drill pilot holes to prevent cracking.
At this point in the process we can begin attaching the beams using 2.5 inch deck screws. These holes should be pre-drilled with pilot holes to prevent cracking
![690FCC2F-B093-41A3-BA71-DE0A7291EA13.jpeg](./690FCC2F-B093-41A3-BA71-DE0A7291EA13.jpeg)
### Step 7: Attaching legs
Begin assembling the bench on a tarp to collect drill shavings for potential reuse. Position the 16-inch (40.64 cm) beams at each corner as legs. Drill pilot holes and secure with screws.
This is when the bench will start to take shape. While assembling we recommend doing so on a tarp to collect any shavings created by drilling to be re-used.
Take your 16 inch beams and stage them as the legs on all four corners. Drill pilot holes and attach with screws.
![20177182-8578-4860-B090-5C4EE57F8C14.jpeg](./20177182-8578-4860-B090-5C4EE57F8C14.jpeg)
### Step 8: Attaching supports and braces
With the bench top and legs prepared, the next step is to reinforce the structure. Position the 15-inch (38 cm) beams between the legs as braces. Next, use the 11 1/4 inch (28.5 cm) beams to install a perpendicular support, connecting the bench top to the 60-inch (152 cm) beam that spans the base.
Now that we have our bench top and legs, all that’s left is to brace and support the structure. Take your 15 inch beams and place them between the legs to create braces between them. Then take your 11 1/4 inch beams to create a support perpendicular to the bench, attaching the bench top to the 60 inch beam which will run across the bottom of the bench on the ground
![1D8056DD-DCEC-4F02-B349-B629583EB24D.jpeg](./1D8056DD-DCEC-4F02-B349-B629583EB24D.jpeg)
@ -104,7 +111,7 @@ With the bench top and legs prepared, the next step is to reinforce the structur
### Step 9: Enjoy!
Choose a suitable location to install your bench, such as a backyard or park.
Now you can find a great location to install your new bench whether it be in your backyard or local park!
![4C777FB3-02A1-4140-9D1E-3A972B663873.jpeg](./4C777FB3-02A1-4140-9D1E-3A972B663873.jpeg)
@ -116,46 +123,4 @@ Choose a suitable location to install your bench, such as a backyard or park.
![21F32179-FAE1-4CAA-806C-B5C53C15ABC6.jpeg](./21F32179-FAE1-4CAA-806C-B5C53C15ABC6.jpeg)
## Resources
To build a bench using 2x4 extruded beams, you’ll need the following items grouped by category:
### Tools & Equipment
- V4 Extruder
- 2x4 mold (1.5 in x 3.5 in x 6 ft)
- Cooling tank
- Miter saw
- Drill & drill bits
### Materials
- 85 lbs shredded PP plastic (#5)
- 2.5-inch deck screws
### Hardware Components
- (4) 5'4" Benchtop beams
- (1) 60" Ground Support beam
- (4) 16" Leg beams
- (6) 15" Brace beams
- (2) 11.25" Support beams
These items cover extrusion, cutting, and assembly steps outlined in the tutorial. The process involves shredding plastic, molding beams, and constructing the bench with precise cuts and screws.
## References
### Articles
https://pri-plastics.com/understanding-plastic-extrusion-a-comprehensive-guide/\
https://www.[filtered].earth/news/extrusion-machine
### Books
https://www.barnesandnoble.com/w/extrusion-harold-f-giles-jr/1111448551
### YouTube
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tGc-Z7TtiVg\
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1A05nDBKzVc\
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Hmp4K3NwB0
### Opensource Designs
https://community.preciousplastic.com/library/make-a-bench-with-beams
## References

26
howtos/create-a-bench-with-2x4-beams/config.json
View File

@ -8,7 +8,7 @@
"steps": [
{
"_animationKey": "unique1",
"text": "This process requires the following tools and equipment:\n\n- V4 Extruder\n- 2x4 mold (1.5 in x 3.5 in x 6 ft)\n- Approximately 85 lbs (38.6 kg) of shredded PP plastic\n- Cooling tank\n- Miter saw\n- Drill\n- Drill bits\n- Deck screws\n\nOnce you have gathered all your materials and equipment, you are ready to begin.",
"text": "This process will require a few tools and equipment. These include:\n-V4 Extruder\n-2x4 mold( measurements= 1.5\"x3.5\"x6')\n-Roughly 85 lbs of shredded PP plastic\n-Cooling tank\n-Miter Saw\n-Drill\n-Drill Bits\n-Deck Screws\n\nOnce you have all your material and equipment you're ready to get started!\n\n",
"title": "Prepare your material and equipment",
"images": [
{
@ -39,7 +39,7 @@
},
{
"title": "Prep",
"text": "Ensure all plastic is thoroughly cleaned, sorted by type (and color if necessary), and shredded to the desired flake size. For our bench, we used PP (#5) plastic.",
"text": "In this step we want to make sure all of our plastic is as clean as possible, sorted by type ( and color if preferred), and shredded to desired flake size. For our bench we used all PP (#5) ",
"images": [
{
"fullPath": "uploads/howtos/R11Diwxd587Py61025xa/8E4E2360-A83C-4F60-B586-FC2A0CD4E900.jpeg",
@ -58,7 +58,7 @@
},
{
"_animationKey": "unique71rtee",
"text": "With the plastic prepared, it is ready for extrusion into beams. Set the extruder temperature to 240°C (464°F) for PP plastic. Attach the mold. Begin extruding at 45-50 RPM, ensuring the hopper remains filled. Once the 6-foot (1.83-meter) mold is filled, disconnect it and place it in a cooling tank with cold water for approximately 20 minutes. After the plastic solidifies, remove it from the mold. Repeat until you have eight 6-foot beams.",
"text": "Now that all of our plastic is prepped it is ready to be extruded into beams. We set our extruder temps to 240 degrees Celsius for our PP plastic with good results. At this point the mold should now be attached. Once temps have been set, you can begin extruding at 45-50 rpms. Keep a close eye on the hopper ensuring it stays filled. Once all 6 feet of the mold has been filled it can be disconnected from the extruder and dropped in a cooling tank with cold water for about 20 min. After the plastic has solidified it can be removed from the mold. Repeat this step until you have 8 six foot beams.",
"images": [
{
"size": 183967,
@ -101,7 +101,7 @@
},
{
"_animationKey": "unique5pjdcc",
"text": "The beams should first be trimmed to remove any excess material at the ends. Next, cut the beams to the specified dimensions using a chop saw:\n\n- (4) beams, each 5 feet 4 inches (163 cm) for the Benchtop\n- (1) beam, 60 inches (152 cm) for Ground Support\n- (4) beams, each 16 inches (41 cm) for the Legs\n- (6) beams, each 15 inches (38 cm) for the Braces\n- (2) beams, each 11 1/4 inches (29 cm)",
"text": "Now the beams need to be trimmed and cut to size. First, the beams will need to have the ends trimmed of any protruding plastic. \n\nOnce trimmed, the beams will need to be cut using a chop saw to the measurements listed:\n(4) 5’4” beams (Benchtop)\n(1) 60” beam (Ground Support)\n(4) 16” beams (Legs)\n(6) 15” beams (Braces)\n(2) 11 1/4” beams\n",
"title": "Cut",
"images": [
{
@ -120,7 +120,7 @@
},
{
"_animationKey": "unique6iwias",
"text": "### Assembly Instructions\n\nLay out the four longest beams side by side to form the bench top, maintaining a spacing of approximately 0.25 inches (6.35 mm) between each. Attach the braces at the ends of the bench top.",
"text": "Now that we have all our pieces made and cut to size we can begin assembly\n\nNow, Lay out your 4 longest beams next to each other to stage your bench top. Each beam should have roughly a quarter inch of spacing between them. Now add your braces along the ends of the benchtop",
"images": [
{
"updated": "2022-01-27T18:54:30.627Z",
@ -152,12 +152,12 @@
"alt": "690FCC2F-B093-41A3-BA71-DE0A7291EA13.jpeg"
}
],
"text": "At this stage, attach the beams using 2.5-inch (6.35 cm) deck screws. Pre-drill pilot holes to prevent cracking.",
"text": "At this point in the process we can begin attaching the beams using 2.5 inch deck screws. These holes should be pre-drilled with pilot holes to prevent cracking",
"title": "Assemble",
"_animationKey": "unique1f2buq"
},
{
"text": "Begin assembling the bench on a tarp to collect drill shavings for potential reuse. Position the 16-inch (40.64 cm) beams at each corner as legs. Drill pilot holes and secure with screws.",
"text": "This is when the bench will start to take shape. While assembling we recommend doing so on a tarp to collect any shavings created by drilling to be re-used.\n\nTake your 16 inch beams and stage them as the legs on all four corners. Drill pilot holes and attach with screws.\n\n",
"_animationKey": "uniquekvd5qv",
"images": [
{
@ -176,7 +176,7 @@
"title": "Attaching legs"
},
{
"text": "With the bench top and legs prepared, the next step is to reinforce the structure. Position the 15-inch (38 cm) beams between the legs as braces. Next, use the 11 1/4 inch (28.5 cm) beams to install a perpendicular support, connecting the bench top to the 60-inch (152 cm) beam that spans the base.",
"text": "Now that we have our bench top and legs, all that’s left is to brace and support the structure. Take your 15 inch beams and place them between the legs to create braces between them. Then take your 11 1/4 inch beams to create a support perpendicular to the bench, attaching the bench top to the 60 inch beam which will run across the bottom of the bench on the ground",
"title": "Attaching supports and braces",
"images": [
{
@ -247,7 +247,7 @@
}
],
"title": "Enjoy!",
"text": "Choose a suitable location to install your bench, such as a backyard or park."
"text": "Now you can find a great location to install your new bench whether it be in your backyard or local park!"
}
],
"_created": "2022-01-27T17:59:13.813Z",
@ -323,7 +323,7 @@
"src": "C:\\Users\\zx\\Desktop\\osr\\osr-machines\\howtos\\create-a-bench-with-2x4-beams\\0f336c0f-d886-450f-acb0-018852cc6746.jpeg"
},
"difficulty_level": "Medium",
"description": "This tutorial explains how to build a bench using 2x4 extruded beams. The finished bench will weigh over 80 pounds (approximately 36 kilograms).",
"description": "This how-to will showcase how to create a bench using 2x4 extruded beams. Once complete, your bench will consist of over 80 pounds of plastic waste!",
"_createdBy": "upcycled-inc",
"_modified": "2024-01-16T16:24:13.359Z",
"slug": "create-a-bench-with-2x4-beams",
@ -517,9 +517,5 @@
"images": []
}
},
"content": "This tutorial explains how to build a bench using 2x4 extruded beams. The finished bench will weigh over 80 pounds (approximately 36 kilograms).\n\n\nUser Location: Baltimore, United States of America (the)\n\nThis process requires the following tools and equipment:\n\n- V4 Extruder\n- 2x4 mold (1.5 in x 3.5 in x 6 ft)\n- Approximately 85 lbs (38.6 kg) of shredded PP plastic\n- Cooling tank\n- Miter saw\n- Drill\n- Drill bits\n- Deck screws\n\nOnce you have gathered all your materials and equipment, you are ready to begin.\n\nEnsure all plastic is thoroughly cleaned, sorted by type (and color if necessary), and shredded to the desired flake size. For our bench, we used PP (#5) plastic.\n\nWith the plastic prepared, it is ready for extrusion into beams. Set the extruder temperature to 240°C (464°F) for PP plastic. Attach the mold. Begin extruding at 45-50 RPM, ensuring the hopper remains filled. Once the 6-foot (1.83-meter) mold is filled, disconnect it and place it in a cooling tank with cold water for approximately 20 minutes. After the plastic solidifies, remove it from the mold. Repeat until you have eight 6-foot beams.\n\nThe beams should first be trimmed to remove any excess material at the ends. Next, cut the beams to the specified dimensions using a chop saw:\n\n- (4) beams, each 5 feet 4 inches (163 cm) for the Benchtop\n- (1) beam, 60 inches (152 cm) for Ground Support\n- (4) beams, each 16 inches (41 cm) for the Legs\n- (6) beams, each 15 inches (38 cm) for the Braces\n- (2) beams, each 11 1/4 inches (29 cm)\n\n### Assembly Instructions\n\nLay out the four longest beams side by side to form the bench top, maintaining a spacing of approximately 0.25 inches (6.35 mm) between each. Attach the braces at the ends of the bench top.\n\nAt this stage, attach the beams using 2.5-inch (6.35 cm) deck screws. Pre-drill pilot holes to prevent cracking.\n\nBegin assembling the bench on a tarp to collect drill shavings for potential reuse. Position the 16-inch (40.64 cm) beams at each corner as legs. Drill pilot holes and secure with screws.\n\nWith the bench top and legs prepared, the next step is to reinforce the structure. Position the 15-inch (38 cm) beams between the legs as braces. Next, use the 11 1/4 inch (28.5 cm) beams to install a perpendicular support, connecting the bench top to the 60-inch (152 cm) beam that spans the base.\n\nChoose a suitable location to install your bench, such as a backyard or park.",
"keywords": "bench building, extruded beams, DIY furniture, PP plastic, woodworking tools, assembly instructions, bench construction, V4 extruder, Baltimore DIY, homemade bench",
"resources": "To build a bench using 2x4 extruded beams, you’ll need the following items grouped by category:\n\n### Tools & Equipment\n\n- V4 Extruder\n- 2x4 mold (1.5 in x 3.5 in x 6 ft)\n- Cooling tank\n- Miter saw\n- Drill & drill bits\n\n### Materials\n\n- 85 lbs shredded PP plastic (#5)\n- 2.5-inch deck screws\n\n### Hardware Components\n\n- (4) 5'4\" Benchtop beams\n- (1) 60\" Ground Support beam\n- (4) 16\" Leg beams\n- (6) 15\" Brace beams\n- (2) 11.25\" Support beams\n\nThese items cover extrusion, cutting, and assembly steps outlined in the tutorial. The process involves shredding plastic, molding beams, and constructing the bench with precise cuts and screws.",
"references": "### Articles\n\nhttps://pri-plastics.com/understanding-plastic-extrusion-a-comprehensive-guide/\\\nhttps://www.[filtered].earth/news/extrusion-machine\n\n### Books\n\nhttps://www.barnesandnoble.com/w/extrusion-harold-f-giles-jr/1111448551\n\n### YouTube\n\nhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tGc-Z7TtiVg\\\nhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1A05nDBKzVc\\\nhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Hmp4K3NwB0\n\n### Opensource Designs\n\nhttps://community.preciousplastic.com/library/make-a-bench-with-beams",
"brief": "Learn how to build a sturdy bench using 2x4 extruded beams and shredded PP plastic with our step-by-step guide, perfect for DIY enthusiasts and outdoor spaces."
"content": "This how-to will showcase how to create a bench using 2x4 extruded beams. Once complete, your bench will consist of over 80 pounds of plastic waste!\n\n\nUser Location: Baltimore, United States of America (the)\n\nThis process will require a few tools and equipment. These include:\n-V4 Extruder\n-2x4 mold( measurements= 1.5\"x3.5\"x6')\n-Roughly 85 lbs of shredded PP plastic\n-Cooling tank\n-Miter Saw\n-Drill\n-Drill Bits\n-Deck Screws\n\nOnce you have all your material and equipment you're ready to get started!\n\n\n\nIn this step we want to make sure all of our plastic is as clean as possible, sorted by type ( and color if preferred), and shredded to desired flake size. For our bench we used all PP (#5) \n\nNow that all of our plastic is prepped it is ready to be extruded into beams. We set our extruder temps to 240 degrees Celsius for our PP plastic with good results. At this point the mold should now be attached. Once temps have been set, you can begin extruding at 45-50 rpms. Keep a close eye on the hopper ensuring it stays filled. Once all 6 feet of the mold has been filled it can be disconnected from the extruder and dropped in a cooling tank with cold water for about 20 min. After the plastic has solidified it can be removed from the mold. Repeat this step until you have 8 six foot beams.\n\nNow the beams need to be trimmed and cut to size. First, the beams will need to have the ends trimmed of any protruding plastic. \n\nOnce trimmed, the beams will need to be cut using a chop saw to the measurements listed:\n(4) 5’4” beams (Benchtop)\n(1) 60” beam (Ground Support)\n(4) 16” beams (Legs)\n(6) 15” beams (Braces)\n(2) 11 1/4” beams\n\n\nNow that we have all our pieces made and cut to size we can begin assembly\n\nNow, Lay out your 4 longest beams next to each other to stage your bench top. Each beam should have roughly a quarter inch of spacing between them. Now add your braces along the ends of the benchtop\n\nAt this point in the process we can begin attaching the beams using 2.5 inch deck screws. These holes should be pre-drilled with pilot holes to prevent cracking\n\nThis is when the bench will start to take shape. While assembling we recommend doing so on a tarp to collect any shavings created by drilling to be re-used.\n\nTake your 16 inch beams and stage them as the legs on all four corners. Drill pilot holes and attach with screws.\n\n\n\nNow that we have our bench top and legs, all that’s left is to brace and support the structure. Take your 15 inch beams and place them between the legs to create braces between them. Then take your 11 1/4 inch beams to create a support perpendicular to the bench, attaching the bench top to the 60 inch beam which will run across the bottom of the bench on the ground\n\nNow you can find a great location to install your new bench whether it be in your backyard or local park!"
}

52
howtos/create-a-lamp-with-translucent-hdpe/README.md
View File

@ -1,23 +1,23 @@
---
title: Create a lamp with translucent HDPE
slug: create-a-lamp-with-translucent-hdpe
description: Hello, we created a lamp to explore translucent HDPE properties. By sorting shredded transparent and colored bottle caps, you achieve a liquid-like effect. The key is in your color choice, allowing for diverse visual outcomes.
description: Hello, we created a little lamp in order to explore the properties of translucent HDPE. By carefully sorting shredded samples of transparent and coloured bottle cups you can achieve the "liquid like" effect you can appreciate in the picture. It's all about the colours you choose, you can come up with many different tasty plastic juices.
tags: ["injection","product","HDPE"]
category: Products
difficulty: Medium
time: < 5 hours
keywords: HDPE lamp, translucent lamp design, DIY HDPE lamp, colored bottle caps lamp, injection molding lamp, laser cut lamp components, liquid-light effect lamp, customized lamp assembly, makerspace lamp project, eco-friendly lamp design
keywords:
location: Donostia / San Sebastian, Spain
---
# Create a lamp with translucent HDPE
![Create a lamp with translucent HDPE](Argitu-186cae2dcf4.jpg)
Hello, we created a lamp to explore translucent HDPE properties. By sorting shredded transparent and colored bottle caps, you achieve a liquid-like effect. The key is in your color choice, allowing for diverse visual outcomes.
Hello, we created a little lamp in order to explore the properties of translucent HDPE. By carefully sorting shredded samples of transparent and coloured bottle cups you can achieve the "liquid like" effect you can appreciate in the picture. It's all about the colours you choose, you can come up with many different tasty plastic juices.
User Location: Donostia / San Sebastian, Spain
## Steps
### Step 1: Sorting and Shredding
Collect HDPE bottle caps from a local source. To achieve a liquid-light effect for your lamp, use both transparent and colored caps. Adding a small amount of shredded colored plastic will tint and alter the final appearance. Sort and shred the plastic carefully.
Grab some HDPE bottle cups from your local collection point. In order to create the liquid-light effect you see on the lamp you will need transparent cups and coloured cups. Choose according to your preferences. Sprinkling a little bit of shredded coloured plastic into your mixture will already dye and obscure the final result. Be patient and sort peacefully, enjoy the therapeutic exercise of shredding plastic.
![SORTING_1-186cb03e4a8.JPG](./SORTING_1-186cb03e4a8.JPG)
@ -30,7 +30,7 @@ Collect HDPE bottle caps from a local source. To achieve a liquid-light effect f
### Step 2: Injection moulding
In the initial image, the light bulb is positioned between two discs. Begin by creating the discs using injection molding. The mold has a thin wall thickness of 3 millimeters (0.12 inches). Refer to the Academy for melting temperatures for HDPE. Experiment with various color combinations. Each disc requires less than 30 grams (1.06 ounces) of material, so adding 3 or 4 grams (0.11 or 0.14 ounces) of color will suffice to tint the plastic.
As you can appreciate in the first picture, the light bulb is standing in between two discs. So, now its time to create the discs by injection moulding. Notice that we have used a mould with a thin wall thickness, 3 millimeters. On the other hand, check out the melting temperatures for HDPE at the Academy. Try different colour combinations. Less than 30 grams are needed per disc, so adding 3 or 4 grams of colour will already "obscure" your plastic juice.
![MOULD_2-186cb095ed3.JPG](./MOULD_2-186cb095ed3.JPG)
@ -43,9 +43,8 @@ In the initial image, the light bulb is positioned between two discs. Begin by c
### Step 3: Laser cut
The clamp for the discs is constructed from wood. We utilized a laser cutting machine at a local makerspace to produce the wooden components. The wood is 0.39 inches (1 cm) thick, and the CAD drawings are included in the download package. The clamp is tailored to accommodate a specific lamp holder and bulb, but you may adjust the design for lamp holders available at local stores. The wooden pieces were later spray-painted.
A small square indentation must be cut from the disc to allow it to attach to the wooden part securely. This feature enables you to swap out discs without using adhesive, facilitating various lighting effects.
The clamp that holds both discs is made out from wood. We were able to use a laser cut machine at a public makerspace in our city to create a set of wooden pieces. The wood used for this design is 1 cm thick and you can find the CAD drawing at the download package. The clamp has been designed to hold a specific lamp holder and bulb. Feel free to adjust the drawing for the lamp holder you can find at your local electricity supplies storehouse. Later on, the wooden pieces were spray painted.
On the other hand, notice that a little square shaped indentation needs to be cut from the disc so that it pins and assembles to the wooden part. This way you can exchange different discs without glueing them to the wooden part. The aim is to create different lighting effects.
![MOUNT-186cb1e46e2.JPG](./MOUNT-186cb1e46e2.JPG)
@ -58,7 +57,8 @@ A small square indentation must be cut from the disc to allow it to attach to th
### Step 4: Assembling the light and finding a place for it.
Assembling the lamp should be quick, as all parts are designed to fit securely. If the structure is unstable, apply glue for reinforcement. You can place it on a bedside table, a desk, or hang it. We would appreciate seeing your completed work.
Assembling the lamp should not take you much time, theoretically everything should fit tightly. If your final result is too shaky, consider using some glue to reinforce your structure.
Now you can place it at your bedsite table or on your working desk, even hanging it is an option. Let us know if you decide to make one, we'd love to see your results.
![AG_1-186cb3a5f72.JPG](./AG_1-186cb3a5f72.JPG)
@ -70,36 +70,4 @@ Assembling the lamp should be quick, as all parts are designed to fit securely.
![AG_3-186cb3a8044.JPG](./AG_3-186cb3a8044.JPG)
## Resources
To create the HDPE lamp described, you'll need the following tools, software, hardware, and materials:
### Tools
- HDPE bottle cap collection (local sources in Donostia/San Sebastian)
- Plastic shredder for processing caps
- Color sorting system for translucent/colored caps
- Injection molding equipment with 3mm-thick molds
- Spray paint for wooden components
### Software
- CAD software to modify wooden clamp designs (drawings included)
### Hardware
- Laser cutting machine (available at local makerspaces)
- Injection molding system for disc production
- Standard lamp holder and bulb assembly
### Materials
- Transparent/colored HDPE bottle caps
- Shredded colored plastic (3-4g per disc for tinting)
- 1 cm thick wood sheets for clamp construction
- Spray-paintable wooden components
- Adhesive (optional reinforcement)
The lamp's modular design allows customization using locally available materials and makerspace equipment. Total material per disc stays under 30g HDPE with <5g color additives[1][2][4][5].
## References
**References**
No external reference links were provided in the text to process.
## References

16
howtos/create-a-lamp-with-translucent-hdpe/config.json
View File

@ -40,11 +40,11 @@
}
],
"title": "Sorting and Shredding",
"text": "Collect HDPE bottle caps from a local source. To achieve a liquid-light effect for your lamp, use both transparent and colored caps. Adding a small amount of shredded colored plastic will tint and alter the final appearance. Sort and shred the plastic carefully.",
"text": "Grab some HDPE bottle cups from your local collection point. In order to create the liquid-light effect you see on the lamp you will need transparent cups and coloured cups. Choose according to your preferences. Sprinkling a little bit of shredded coloured plastic into your mixture will already dye and obscure the final result. Be patient and sort peacefully, enjoy the therapeutic exercise of shredding plastic. ",
"_animationKey": "unique1"
},
{
"text": "In the initial image, the light bulb is positioned between two discs. Begin by creating the discs using injection molding. The mold has a thin wall thickness of 3 millimeters (0.12 inches). Refer to the Academy for melting temperatures for HDPE. Experiment with various color combinations. Each disc requires less than 30 grams (1.06 ounces) of material, so adding 3 or 4 grams (0.11 or 0.14 ounces) of color will suffice to tint the plastic.",
"text": "As you can appreciate in the first picture, the light bulb is standing in between two discs. So, now its time to create the discs by injection moulding. Notice that we have used a mould with a thin wall thickness, 3 millimeters. On the other hand, check out the melting temperatures for HDPE at the Academy. Try different colour combinations. Less than 30 grams are needed per disc, so adding 3 or 4 grams of colour will already \"obscure\" your plastic juice. ",
"images": [
{
"fullPath": "uploads/howtos/1lhRUtVBSeUfo7VJYfu0/MOULD_2-186cb095ed3.JPG",
@ -125,7 +125,7 @@
"alt": "ZURA_MARGOTU-186cb222c4a.JPG"
}
],
"text": "The clamp for the discs is constructed from wood. We utilized a laser cutting machine at a local makerspace to produce the wooden components. The wood is 0.39 inches (1 cm) thick, and the CAD drawings are included in the download package. The clamp is tailored to accommodate a specific lamp holder and bulb, but you may adjust the design for lamp holders available at local stores. The wooden pieces were later spray-painted.\n\nA small square indentation must be cut from the disc to allow it to attach to the wooden part securely. This feature enables you to swap out discs without using adhesive, facilitating various lighting effects.",
"text": "The clamp that holds both discs is made out from wood. We were able to use a laser cut machine at a public makerspace in our city to create a set of wooden pieces. The wood used for this design is 1 cm thick and you can find the CAD drawing at the download package. The clamp has been designed to hold a specific lamp holder and bulb. Feel free to adjust the drawing for the lamp holder you can find at your local electricity supplies storehouse. Later on, the wooden pieces were spray painted. \nOn the other hand, notice that a little square shaped indentation needs to be cut from the disc so that it pins and assembles to the wooden part. This way you can exchange different discs without glueing them to the wooden part. The aim is to create different lighting effects. ",
"title": "Laser cut",
"_animationKey": "unique3"
},
@ -169,7 +169,7 @@
"alt": "AG_3-186cb3a8044.JPG"
}
],
"text": "Assembling the lamp should be quick, as all parts are designed to fit securely. If the structure is unstable, apply glue for reinforcement. You can place it on a bedside table, a desk, or hang it. We would appreciate seeing your completed work.",
"text": "Assembling the lamp should not take you much time, theoretically everything should fit tightly. If your final result is too shaky, consider using some glue to reinforce your structure. \nNow you can place it at your bedsite table or on your working desk, even hanging it is an option. Let us know if you decide to make one, we'd love to see your results. ",
"title": "Assembling the light and finding a place for it. "
}
],
@ -202,7 +202,7 @@
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"create-a-lamp-with-translucent-hdpe"
],
"description": "Hello, we created a lamp to explore translucent HDPE properties. By sorting shredded transparent and colored bottle caps, you achieve a liquid-like effect. The key is in your color choice, allowing for diverse visual outcomes.",
"description": "Hello, we created a little lamp in order to explore the properties of translucent HDPE. By carefully sorting shredded samples of transparent and coloured bottle cups you can achieve the \"liquid like\" effect you can appreciate in the picture. It's all about the colours you choose, you can come up with many different tasty plastic juices. ",
"difficulty_level": "Medium",
"id": "iJ9nuzOkkfFVXYyhJE0V",
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@ -390,9 +390,5 @@
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},
"content": "Hello, we created a lamp to explore translucent HDPE properties. By sorting shredded transparent and colored bottle caps, you achieve a liquid-like effect. The key is in your color choice, allowing for diverse visual outcomes.\n\n\nUser Location: Donostia / San Sebastian, Spain\n\nCollect HDPE bottle caps from a local source. To achieve a liquid-light effect for your lamp, use both transparent and colored caps. Adding a small amount of shredded colored plastic will tint and alter the final appearance. Sort and shred the plastic carefully.\n\nIn the initial image, the light bulb is positioned between two discs. Begin by creating the discs using injection molding. The mold has a thin wall thickness of 3 millimeters (0.12 inches). Refer to the Academy for melting temperatures for HDPE. Experiment with various color combinations. Each disc requires less than 30 grams (1.06 ounces) of material, so adding 3 or 4 grams (0.11 or 0.14 ounces) of color will suffice to tint the plastic.\n\nThe clamp for the discs is constructed from wood. We utilized a laser cutting machine at a local makerspace to produce the wooden components. The wood is 0.39 inches (1 cm) thick, and the CAD drawings are included in the download package. The clamp is tailored to accommodate a specific lamp holder and bulb, but you may adjust the design for lamp holders available at local stores. The wooden pieces were later spray-painted.\n\nA small square indentation must be cut from the disc to allow it to attach to the wooden part securely. This feature enables you to swap out discs without using adhesive, facilitating various lighting effects.\n\nAssembling the lamp should be quick, as all parts are designed to fit securely. If the structure is unstable, apply glue for reinforcement. You can place it on a bedside table, a desk, or hang it. We would appreciate seeing your completed work.",
"keywords": "HDPE lamp, translucent lamp design, DIY HDPE lamp, colored bottle caps lamp, injection molding lamp, laser cut lamp components, liquid-light effect lamp, customized lamp assembly, makerspace lamp project, eco-friendly lamp design",
"resources": "To create the HDPE lamp described, you'll need the following tools, software, hardware, and materials:\n\n### Tools\n\n- HDPE bottle cap collection (local sources in Donostia/San Sebastian)\n- Plastic shredder for processing caps\n- Color sorting system for translucent/colored caps\n- Injection molding equipment with 3mm-thick molds\n- Spray paint for wooden components\n\n### Software\n\n- CAD software to modify wooden clamp designs (drawings included)\n\n### Hardware\n\n- Laser cutting machine (available at local makerspaces)\n- Injection molding system for disc production\n- Standard lamp holder and bulb assembly\n\n### Materials\n\n- Transparent/colored HDPE bottle caps\n- Shredded colored plastic (3-4g per disc for tinting)\n- 1 cm thick wood sheets for clamp construction\n- Spray-paintable wooden components\n- Adhesive (optional reinforcement)\n\nThe lamp's modular design allows customization using locally available materials and makerspace equipment. Total material per disc stays under 30g HDPE with <5g color additives[1][2][4][5].",
"references": "**References**\n\nNo external reference links were provided in the text to process.",
"brief": "Explore the beauty of translucent HDPE lamps using sorted colored bottle caps for unique lighting effects. Experiment with designs and share your creations."
"content": "Hello, we created a little lamp in order to explore the properties of translucent HDPE. By carefully sorting shredded samples of transparent and coloured bottle cups you can achieve the \"liquid like\" effect you can appreciate in the picture. It's all about the colours you choose, you can come up with many different tasty plastic juices. \n\n\nUser Location: Donostia / San Sebastian, Spain\n\nGrab some HDPE bottle cups from your local collection point. In order to create the liquid-light effect you see on the lamp you will need transparent cups and coloured cups. Choose according to your preferences. Sprinkling a little bit of shredded coloured plastic into your mixture will already dye and obscure the final result. Be patient and sort peacefully, enjoy the therapeutic exercise of shredding plastic. \n\nAs you can appreciate in the first picture, the light bulb is standing in between two discs. So, now its time to create the discs by injection moulding. Notice that we have used a mould with a thin wall thickness, 3 millimeters. On the other hand, check out the melting temperatures for HDPE at the Academy. Try different colour combinations. Less than 30 grams are needed per disc, so adding 3 or 4 grams of colour will already \"obscure\" your plastic juice. \n\nThe clamp that holds both discs is made out from wood. We were able to use a laser cut machine at a public makerspace in our city to create a set of wooden pieces. The wood used for this design is 1 cm thick and you can find the CAD drawing at the download package. The clamp has been designed to hold a specific lamp holder and bulb. Feel free to adjust the drawing for the lamp holder you can find at your local electricity supplies storehouse. Later on, the wooden pieces were spray painted. \nOn the other hand, notice that a little square shaped indentation needs to be cut from the disc so that it pins and assembles to the wooden part. This way you can exchange different discs without glueing them to the wooden part. The aim is to create different lighting effects. \n\nAssembling the lamp should not take you much time, theoretically everything should fit tightly. If your final result is too shaky, consider using some glue to reinforce your structure. \nNow you can place it at your bedsite table or on your working desk, even hanging it is an option. Let us know if you decide to make one, we'd love to see your results. "
}

103
howtos/create-a-notebook-with-sugar-cane-paper-and-pp/README.md
View File

@ -1,47 +1,47 @@
---
title: Create a Notebook with sugar cane paper and PP
slug: create-a-notebook-with-sugar-cane-paper-and-pp
description: ## How to Create a Notebook with Sugar Cane Paper and Custom Sheets
description: How to create a notebook with sugar cane paper and precious plastic sheets with a personalized touch
### Materials Needed:
- A 2mm (0.08 inches) sheet
You will need:
- A 2mm sheet
- Sugar cane paper
- Jigsaw
- Marking tool
- Hole saw
- Rivets
- 10mm (0.39 inches) elastic
- 5/32 inch (4mm) drill
- Press
- A Jig saw
- Something to mark on the sheet
- A hole saw
- Some rivets
- 10mm elastic
- A 5/32" drill
- A press
tags: ["PP","HDPE","sheetpress","collection"]
category: Products
difficulty: Medium
time: < 5 hours
keywords: sugar cane paper, custom notebook, DIY notebook, sugarcane products, crafting materials, notebook assembly, handmade notebook, DIY stationery, eco-friendly notebook, Bogota crafts
keywords:
location: Bogota, Colombia
---
# Create a Notebook with sugar cane paper and PP
![Create a Notebook with sugar cane paper and PP](Copia_de_Post-06.jpg)
## How to Create a Notebook with Sugar Cane Paper and Custom Sheets
How to create a notebook with sugar cane paper and precious plastic sheets with a personalized touch
### Materials Needed:
- A 2mm (0.08 inches) sheet
You will need:
- A 2mm sheet
- Sugar cane paper
- Jigsaw
- Marking tool
- Hole saw
- Rivets
- 10mm (0.39 inches) elastic
- 5/32 inch (4mm) drill
- Press
- A Jig saw
- Something to mark on the sheet
- A hole saw
- Some rivets
- 10mm elastic
- A 5/32" drill
- A press
User Location: Bogota, Colombia
## Steps
### Step 1: Create marks on your sheet
Choose a 2mm (0.08 inches) sheet; for this example, we use sheets sized 520mm x 520mm (20.47 inches x 20.47 inches).
First, you will need to choose or make a 2mm sheet; in our case, we will be using 520mm x 520mm x 2mm sheets that we made.
Mark the sheet with the desired dimensions for the notebook covers using a marker or cutter. For repeated production, consider creating a template.
Once you have chosen the sheet that you are going to use, go ahead and place marks on it with the desired size of the covers of your notebook (you can use a marker or a cutter); as a pro tip, if you are going to make a lot of them as we are going to do, you can make a template to make your life easier.
![_MG_2032.JPG](./_MG_2032.JPG)
@ -54,7 +54,7 @@ Mark the sheet with the desired dimensions for the notebook covers using a marke
### Step 2: Cut the sheet
Use a jigsaw with a metal-cutting blade to cut along the marked lines. Wear protective glasses and gloves for safety. Secure the sheet on the cutting table to prevent movement.
With the jigsaw, start cutting through the marks you previously made; we like to use a blade suited for cutting metal; it leaves the best results. Also, be aware of your safety, so always use protective glasses and gloves, and press the sheet into the cutting table, so nothing moves.
![_MG_2054.JPG](./_MG_2054.JPG)
@ -64,14 +64,14 @@ Use a jigsaw with a metal-cutting blade to cut along the marked lines. Wear prot
### Step 3: Clean the covers
To clean the edges of the covers, use a small knife for a smooth finish.
Using a small knife, you can clean the edges of the covers for a smooth result.
![_MG_2073.JPG](./_MG_2073.JPG)
### Step 4: Open holes
To prepare the notebook cover, drill holes for the elastic band using a 5/35" (3.57 mm) bit in the back cover and a 2" (50.8 mm) hole saw in the front. You may stack multiple covers for drilling, but use the hole saw individually to easily remove the cut-out. Always secure the covers and wear gloves and safety glasses for protection.
Since our notebook has an elastic band and an illustration, we need to open holes in the cover. Use a 5/35" drill for the elastic band in the back cover, and a 2" hole saw for the front one. You can pile up a bunch of covers for the drill, but with the hole saw, it is best to do it one by one, so the remaining circle is easier to take off the hole saw. As a safety measure, always press the covers and wear gloves and glasses.
![_MG_2063.JPG](./_MG_2063.JPG)
@ -84,11 +84,10 @@ To prepare the notebook cover, drill holes for the elastic band using a 5/35" (3
### Step 5: Put the elastic on back cover
### Instructions for Attaching Elastic with Rivets
Use the rivets to put the elastic on the back cover. The rivet we are using has 2 parts, so place the elastic and then each of the rivet parts on them.
Use rivets to secure the elastic to the back cover. A rivet consists of two parts; position the elastic between these parts before fastening.
If you don't have a riveting machine, you can always use a hammer to close the rivet.
If a riveting machine is unavailable, a hammer can be used to close the rivet.
![_MG_2068.JPG](./_MG_2068.JPG)
@ -98,25 +97,26 @@ If a riveting machine is unavailable, a hammer can be used to close the rivet.
### Step 6: Cut the paper to desired size
If creating a specific size notebook, cut the paper to the desired dimensions; here, we use letter-size (8.5" x 11") paper to make half-letter (5.5" x 8.5").
If you are making a particular size notebook, cut the paper into the proper size; in our case, we use letter-size paper to make half-letter paper
![_MG_2075.jpg](./_MG_2075.jpg)
### Step 7: Fix everything for assembly
Prepare the covers and sheets for assembly. If a printed sheet is desired, do it now.
Prepare the covers and sheets for assembly; if you want a printed sheet, this is the best time to do it.
Since we do not have the equipment to ring the notebooks, we use a third party for the process.
As we lack equipment to bind the notebooks, we use an external service for this process.
![_MG_2077.JPG](./_MG_2077.JPG)
### Step 8: And last but not least...
Stamp your products to identify their materials.
Remember to stamp your products so everybody knows what they are made from and we can keep recycling.
Enjoy your new notebook.
Now enjoy your brand new [filtered] notebook!!
![20211130_133011.jpg](./20211130_133011.jpg)
@ -128,37 +128,4 @@ Enjoy your new notebook.
![20211130_150118.jpg](./20211130_150118.jpg)
## Resources
### Tools
- Jigsaw with metal-cutting blade [1]
- Hole saw (2”/50.8mm) [1]
- Drill with 5/32” (4mm) bit [1]
- Riveting machine or hammer [1]
- Marking tool (marker/cutter) [1]
### Hardware
- Press (for drilling/riveting) [1]
- Cutting table [1]
- Safety glasses [1]
- Work gloves [1]
- 2mm metal sheets [1]
### Software
- *Not required for this project*
## References
## References
### Articles
- [Making a Beautiful Sugarcane Paper - Kozo Studio](https://kozo.studio/blogs/journal/making-a-beautiful-sugarcane-paper) [13]
### YouTube
- [Creating an open-source book with Jupyter Book and Jupytext](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jUdXs4OPR84) [3]
### Open-source Designs
- [Homemade Recycled Notebook (Instructables)](https://www.instructables.com/Homemade-Recycled-Notebook/) [2]
- [Pocket Notebooks (stitched) (Instructables)](https://www.instructables.com/Pocket-Notebooks-stitched/) [9]
## References

24
howtos/create-a-notebook-with-sugar-cane-paper-and-pp/config.json
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"description": "## How to Create a Notebook with Sugar Cane Paper and Custom Sheets\n\n### Materials Needed:\n- A 2mm (0.08 inches) sheet\n- Sugar cane paper\n- Jigsaw\n- Marking tool\n- Hole saw\n- Rivets\n- 10mm (0.39 inches) elastic\n- 5/32 inch (4mm) drill\n- Press",
"description": "How to create a notebook with sugar cane paper and precious plastic sheets with a personalized touch\n\nYou will need:\n- A 2mm sheet\n- Sugar cane paper\n- A Jig saw\n- Something to mark on the sheet\n- A hole saw\n- Some rivets\n- 10mm elastic\n- A 5/32\" drill\n- A press",
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"text": "First, you will need to choose or make a 2mm sheet; in our case, we will be using 520mm x 520mm x 2mm sheets that we made.\n\nOnce you have chosen the sheet that you are going to use, go ahead and place marks on it with the desired size of the covers of your notebook (you can use a marker or a cutter); as a pro tip, if you are going to make a lot of them as we are going to do, you can make a template to make your life easier.",
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"text": "Use a jigsaw with a metal-cutting blade to cut along the marked lines. Wear protective glasses and gloves for safety. Secure the sheet on the cutting table to prevent movement.",
"text": "With the jigsaw, start cutting through the marks you previously made; we like to use a blade suited for cutting metal; it leaves the best results. Also, be aware of your safety, so always use protective glasses and gloves, and press the sheet into the cutting table, so nothing moves.",
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@ -141,7 +141,7 @@
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"title": "Clean the covers",
"text": "To clean the edges of the covers, use a small knife for a smooth finish."
"text": "Using a small knife, you can clean the edges of the covers for a smooth result."
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@ -183,11 +183,11 @@
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"_animationKey": "unique7f5fzh",
"text": "To prepare the notebook cover, drill holes for the elastic band using a 5/35\" (3.57 mm) bit in the back cover and a 2\" (50.8 mm) hole saw in the front. You may stack multiple covers for drilling, but use the hole saw individually to easily remove the cut-out. Always secure the covers and wear gloves and safety glasses for protection.",
"text": "Since our notebook has an elastic band and an illustration, we need to open holes in the cover. Use a 5/35\" drill for the elastic band in the back cover, and a 2\" hole saw for the front one. You can pile up a bunch of covers for the drill, but with the hole saw, it is best to do it one by one, so the remaining circle is easier to take off the hole saw. As a safety measure, always press the covers and wear gloves and glasses.",
"title": "Open holes"
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{
"text": "### Instructions for Attaching Elastic with Rivets\n\nUse rivets to secure the elastic to the back cover. A rivet consists of two parts; position the elastic between these parts before fastening.\n\nIf a riveting machine is unavailable, a hammer can be used to close the rivet.",
"text": "Use the rivets to put the elastic on the back cover. The rivet we are using has 2 parts, so place the elastic and then each of the rivet parts on them.\n\nIf you don't have a riveting machine, you can always use a hammer to close the rivet.\n",
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"text": "If creating a specific size notebook, cut the paper to the desired dimensions; here, we use letter-size (8.5\" x 11\") paper to make half-letter (5.5\" x 8.5\").",
"text": "If you are making a particular size notebook, cut the paper into the proper size; in our case, we use letter-size paper to make half-letter paper",
"images": [
{
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@ -253,7 +253,7 @@
"alt": "_MG_2077.JPG"
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"text": "Prepare the covers and sheets for assembly. If a printed sheet is desired, do it now.\n\nAs we lack equipment to bind the notebooks, we use an external service for this process."
"text": "Prepare the covers and sheets for assembly; if you want a printed sheet, this is the best time to do it.\n\nSince we do not have the equipment to ring the notebooks, we use a third party for the process.\n"
},
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"images": [
@ -295,7 +295,7 @@
}
],
"title": "And last but not least...",
"text": "Stamp your products to identify their materials.\n\nEnjoy your new notebook.",
"text": "Remember to stamp your products so everybody knows what they are made from and we can keep recycling.\n\nNow enjoy your brand new [filtered] notebook!!",
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@ -465,9 +465,5 @@
"images": []
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},
"content": "## How to Create a Notebook with Sugar Cane Paper and Custom Sheets\n\n### Materials Needed:\n- A 2mm (0.08 inches) sheet\n- Sugar cane paper\n- Jigsaw\n- Marking tool\n- Hole saw\n- Rivets\n- 10mm (0.39 inches) elastic\n- 5/32 inch (4mm) drill\n- Press\n\n\nUser Location: Bogota, Colombia\n\nChoose a 2mm (0.08 inches) sheet; for this example, we use sheets sized 520mm x 520mm (20.47 inches x 20.47 inches). \n\nMark the sheet with the desired dimensions for the notebook covers using a marker or cutter. For repeated production, consider creating a template.\n\nUse a jigsaw with a metal-cutting blade to cut along the marked lines. Wear protective glasses and gloves for safety. Secure the sheet on the cutting table to prevent movement.\n\nTo clean the edges of the covers, use a small knife for a smooth finish.\n\nTo prepare the notebook cover, drill holes for the elastic band using a 5/35\" (3.57 mm) bit in the back cover and a 2\" (50.8 mm) hole saw in the front. You may stack multiple covers for drilling, but use the hole saw individually to easily remove the cut-out. Always secure the covers and wear gloves and safety glasses for protection.\n\n### Instructions for Attaching Elastic with Rivets\n\nUse rivets to secure the elastic to the back cover. A rivet consists of two parts; position the elastic between these parts before fastening.\n\nIf a riveting machine is unavailable, a hammer can be used to close the rivet.\n\nIf creating a specific size notebook, cut the paper to the desired dimensions; here, we use letter-size (8.5\" x 11\") paper to make half-letter (5.5\" x 8.5\").\n\nPrepare the covers and sheets for assembly. If a printed sheet is desired, do it now.\n\nAs we lack equipment to bind the notebooks, we use an external service for this process.\n\nStamp your products to identify their materials.\n\nEnjoy your new notebook.",
"keywords": "sugar cane paper, custom notebook, DIY notebook, sugarcane products, crafting materials, notebook assembly, handmade notebook, DIY stationery, eco-friendly notebook, Bogota crafts",
"resources": "### Tools\n\n- Jigsaw with metal-cutting blade [1]\n- Hole saw (2”/50.8mm) [1]\n- Drill with 5/32” (4mm) bit [1]\n- Riveting machine or hammer [1]\n- Marking tool (marker/cutter) [1]\n\n### Hardware\n\n- Press (for drilling/riveting) [1]\n- Cutting table [1]\n- Safety glasses [1]\n- Work gloves [1]\n- 2mm metal sheets [1]\n\n### Software\n\n- *Not required for this project*",
"references": "## References\n\n### Articles\n\n- [Making a Beautiful Sugarcane Paper - Kozo Studio](https://kozo.studio/blogs/journal/making-a-beautiful-sugarcane-paper) [13]\n\n### YouTube\n\n- [Creating an open-source book with Jupyter Book and Jupytext](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jUdXs4OPR84) [3]\n\n### Open-source Designs\n\n- [Homemade Recycled Notebook (Instructables)](https://www.instructables.com/Homemade-Recycled-Notebook/) [2]\n- [Pocket Notebooks (stitched) (Instructables)](https://www.instructables.com/Pocket-Notebooks-stitched/) [9]",
"brief": "Learn to craft a custom notebook using sugar cane paper with this easy guide. Gather materials, follow step-by-step instructions, and enjoy your creation!"
"content": "How to create a notebook with sugar cane paper and precious plastic sheets with a personalized touch\n\nYou will need:\n- A 2mm sheet\n- Sugar cane paper\n- A Jig saw\n- Something to mark on the sheet\n- A hole saw\n- Some rivets\n- 10mm elastic\n- A 5/32\" drill\n- A press\n\n\nUser Location: Bogota, Colombia\n\nFirst, you will need to choose or make a 2mm sheet; in our case, we will be using 520mm x 520mm x 2mm sheets that we made.\n\nOnce you have chosen the sheet that you are going to use, go ahead and place marks on it with the desired size of the covers of your notebook (you can use a marker or a cutter); as a pro tip, if you are going to make a lot of them as we are going to do, you can make a template to make your life easier.\n\nWith the jigsaw, start cutting through the marks you previously made; we like to use a blade suited for cutting metal; it leaves the best results. Also, be aware of your safety, so always use protective glasses and gloves, and press the sheet into the cutting table, so nothing moves.\n\nUsing a small knife, you can clean the edges of the covers for a smooth result.\n\nSince our notebook has an elastic band and an illustration, we need to open holes in the cover. Use a 5/35\" drill for the elastic band in the back cover, and a 2\" hole saw for the front one. You can pile up a bunch of covers for the drill, but with the hole saw, it is best to do it one by one, so the remaining circle is easier to take off the hole saw. As a safety measure, always press the covers and wear gloves and glasses.\n\nUse the rivets to put the elastic on the back cover. The rivet we are using has 2 parts, so place the elastic and then each of the rivet parts on them.\n\nIf you don't have a riveting machine, you can always use a hammer to close the rivet.\n\n\nIf you are making a particular size notebook, cut the paper into the proper size; in our case, we use letter-size paper to make half-letter paper\n\nPrepare the covers and sheets for assembly; if you want a printed sheet, this is the best time to do it.\n\nSince we do not have the equipment to ring the notebooks, we use a third party for the process.\n\n\nRemember to stamp your products so everybody knows what they are made from and we can keep recycling.\n\nNow enjoy your brand new [filtered] notebook!!"
}

89
howtos/create-a-perforated-board/README.md
View File

@ -1,28 +1,29 @@
---
title: Create a Perforated Board
slug: create-a-perforated-board
description: This method employs a heat press machine and an aluminum mold to create a plastic board, which is subsequently shaped into a perforated board.
description: This method uses a heat press machine and an aluminum mold to make plastic board, which is then formed into perforated board.
tags: ["PP","sheetpress","mould"]
category: Products
difficulty: Medium
time: < 1 day
keywords: Heat press machine, aluminum mold, plastic board, perforated board, aluminum frame, milled plastic, silicone spray, pegboard preparation, drill guide holes, orbit sander
keywords:
location: Tokyo, Japan
---
# Create a Perforated Board
![Create a Perforated Board](pegboard-1839e6fcddf.png)
This method employs a heat press machine and an aluminum mold to create a plastic board, which is subsequently shaped into a perforated board.
This method uses a heat press machine and an aluminum mold to make plastic board, which is then formed into perforated board.
User Location: Tokyo, Japan
## Steps
### Step 1: Prepare heat press machine and aluminum frame
### Materials
- **Heat Press Machine:** A commercially available heat press machine for iron-on printing with a 350x350 mm (13.78x13.78 in) heat surface.
- **Aluminum Frame:** Ordered from an online supplier, the frame is 230x300x4 mm (9.06x11.81x0.16 in) with a 5 mm (0.2 in) corner radius. It is sandwiched between two 2 mm (0.08 in) aluminum sheets and pressed.
Heat press machine...commercially available heat press machine for iron-on printing. The one I am using has a 350x350(mm) heat surface.
Aluminum frame...I found a supplier online that sells and processes aluminum sheet metal and placed an order. 230x300x4(mm) rectangular frame with 5mm radius on the corners. This aluminum frame is sandwiched between two aluminum sheets (2 mm) and pressed.
Steps 1 and 2 are based on "Zero Plastic Australia's Sheet Machine" by Zero Plastic Australia. Please refer to this one too!
### Reference
- Steps 1 and 2 are adapted from "Zero Plastic Australia's Sheet Machine" guide.
![PXL_20220813_032907931-1839e74b577.jpg](./PXL_20220813_032907931-1839e74b577.jpg)
@ -33,14 +34,14 @@ User Location: Tokyo, Japan
### Step 2: Create a plastic sheet
Aluminum sheet - Teflon sheet - Milled plastic & aluminum frame - Teflon sheet - Aluminum sheet
The materials are set in the heat press machine in a sandwich condition like the above. At this time, it is recommended to spray the aluminum frame thoroughly with silicone spray. For this aluminum frame, roughly 350-400g of milled plastic is required.
Arrange the materials in a heat press in the specified order. Apply silicone spray thoroughly to the aluminum frame. Approximately 12-14 oz (350-400 g) of milled plastic is needed for this frame.
After setting the materials and closing the heat press, heat the machine at 180°C for 30-40 minutes. During this time, keep increasing the pressure of the heat press to the maximum. Apply heat and pressure evenly, rotating and flipping the whole aluminum sandwich sheet during the process.
Close the heat press and set it to 356°F (180°C) for 30-40 minutes. Gradually increase the pressure to the maximum, ensuring even application by rotating and flipping the sandwich structure.
Then turn off the press and allow the plastic to cool and harden in place while keeping the pressure applied. After at least four hours, and ideally overnight, the plastic should be nice and flat.
After heating, turn off the press, keeping the pressure applied as the plastic cools and solidifies. Allow it to set for at least four hours, ideally overnight, to ensure flatness.
Once the plastic has cooled and hardened, peel it off from the frame, cut off the unnecessary parts with scissors, and your plastic sheet is ready!
Once cool and solidified, remove the plastic sheet from the frame. Trim any excess with scissors, and the sheet is ready for use.
![PXL_20220730_100113628-1839e75fa4f.jpg](./PXL_20220730_100113628-1839e75fa4f.jpg)
@ -50,11 +51,12 @@ Once cool and solidified, remove the plastic sheet from the frame. Trim any exce
### Step 3: Drill Holes
Prepare a pegboard for guides. I used a pegboard measuring 11.8 x 7.9 inches (30 x 20 cm) with 5 mm holes spaced 25 mm apart.
Prepare a peg board for guides. I used "Design Board 30cm x 20cm (natural x white): 110 yen" from Daiso. The size of the holes is 5 mm and the hole spacing is 25 mm.
Stack the pegboard on the plastic board and secure them with clamps. Drill 0.08-inch (2 mm) guide holes centered on the perforations.
Stack the peg board on the plastic board and fix it with clamps to prevent it from moving. Aim at the center of the perforated board and drill guide holes 2 mm in diameter.
After the guide holes are drilled, remove the perforated board and fix only the plastic board to the workbench. Replace the drill with one of 5 mm diameter and drill the actual holes as per the guide holes.
Once the guide holes are complete, remove the pegboard. Secure the plastic board to the workbench and use a 0.2-inch (5 mm) drill bit to create the final holes based on the guides.
![PXL_20220826_132812600-1839e7461fa.jpg](./PXL_20220826_132812600-1839e7461fa.jpg)
@ -64,63 +66,14 @@ Once the guide holes are complete, remove the pegboard. Secure the plastic board
### Step 4: Finish with Sanding
After drilling all holes, remove any remaining plastic debris. Smooth the surface with an orbit sander. Sand up to about #2000 grit to achieve a bright color.
After all holes are drilled, remove the remaining plastic debris around the holes. If there are too many burrs on the surface, use an orbit sander to finish the surface. If you apply up to about #2000, the color of the plastic will be bright.
The plastic pegboard is now complete.
And voila! The plastic pegboard is now complete!
For questions, please contact pebbles.recycleplastic@gmail.com.
If you have any question regarding this How-to, please contact pebbles.recycleplastic@​gmail.com ;-)
![PXL_20220911_133119936.PORTRAIT (1)-1839e739c87.jpg](./PXL_20220911_133119936.PORTRAIT_1-1839e739c87.jpg)
## Resources
### Tools
- Electric drill with 2mm and 5mm bits
- Orbit sander
- Clamps
- Scissors
- Sandpaper (up to #2000 grit)
### Hardware
- Heat press machine (350x350 mm plate) ~~[Reference](https://www.zeroplastic.com.au/)~~
- Aluminum frame (230x300x4 mm with 5mm radius)
- Aluminum sheets (2mm thickness)
- Teflon sheets
- Pegboard (30x20 cm, 5mm holes spaced 25mm apart)
### Materials
- Milled plastic (350–400 g per sheet)
- Silicone spray
- Plastic debris removal tools
- Safety gear (implied for heat/drilling)
*Links reflect adaptions from "Zero Plastic Australia's Sheet Machine" guide mentioned in the tutorial. Specific suppliers aren’t listed in the source text.*
## References
### Articles
- [Bending and forming PLEXIGLAS®](https://www.plexiglas.de/en/service/processing/bending-and-forming-plexiglas)
- [Compression molding](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Compression_molding)
- [Guide to Manufacturing Processes for Plastics](https://formlabs.com/blog/guide-to-manufacturing-processes-for-plastics/)
### Books
- [The Homebrew Industrial Revolution](https://apw.org.nz/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/HomeBrewRevolution_Carson.pdf)
### Papers
- [JRC-2020-TECHNOLOGY.pdf](https://elib.psu.by/bitstream/123456789/25333/1/JRC-2020-TECHNOLOGY.pdf)
- [Thermoforming Manual](https://www.spartech.com/media/documents/SPA221062-Thermoforming-Manual.pdf)
### YouTube
- [Melting plastic waste into sheets](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0VibXPtIcxc)
### Opensource Designs
- Zero Plastic Australia's Sheet Machine
- [filtered] Injection Machine
- [$50 Plastic Shredder](https://www.instructables.com/50-Plastic-Shredder-Grinder-Recycler/)
- Create a Peg Board
## References

16
howtos/create-a-perforated-board/config.json
View File

@ -46,7 +46,7 @@
"total_downloads": 0,
"steps": [
{
"text": "### Materials\n- **Heat Press Machine:** A commercially available heat press machine for iron-on printing with a 350x350 mm (13.78x13.78 in) heat surface.\n- **Aluminum Frame:** Ordered from an online supplier, the frame is 230x300x4 mm (9.06x11.81x0.16 in) with a 5 mm (0.2 in) corner radius. It is sandwiched between two 2 mm (0.08 in) aluminum sheets and pressed.\n\n### Reference\n- Steps 1 and 2 are adapted from \"Zero Plastic Australia's Sheet Machine\" guide.",
"text": "Heat press machine...commercially available heat press machine for iron-on printing. The one I am using has a 350x350(mm) heat surface.\nAluminum frame...I found a supplier online that sells and processes aluminum sheet metal and placed an order. 230x300x4(mm) rectangular frame with 5mm radius on the corners. This aluminum frame is sandwiched between two aluminum sheets (2 mm) and pressed.\n\nSteps 1 and 2 are based on \"Zero Plastic Australia's Sheet Machine\" by Zero Plastic Australia. Please refer to this one too!\n\n\n",
"title": "Prepare heat press machine and aluminum frame",
"_animationKey": "unique1",
"images": [
@ -78,7 +78,7 @@
},
{
"_animationKey": "unique2",
"text": "Aluminum sheet - Teflon sheet - Milled plastic & aluminum frame - Teflon sheet - Aluminum sheet\n\nArrange the materials in a heat press in the specified order. Apply silicone spray thoroughly to the aluminum frame. Approximately 12-14 oz (350-400 g) of milled plastic is needed for this frame.\n\nClose the heat press and set it to 356°F (180°C) for 30-40 minutes. Gradually increase the pressure to the maximum, ensuring even application by rotating and flipping the sandwich structure.\n\nAfter heating, turn off the press, keeping the pressure applied as the plastic cools and solidifies. Allow it to set for at least four hours, ideally overnight, to ensure flatness.\n\nOnce cool and solidified, remove the plastic sheet from the frame. Trim any excess with scissors, and the sheet is ready for use.",
"text": "Aluminum sheet - Teflon sheet - Milled plastic & aluminum frame - Teflon sheet - Aluminum sheet\nThe materials are set in the heat press machine in a sandwich condition like the above. At this time, it is recommended to spray the aluminum frame thoroughly with silicone spray. For this aluminum frame, roughly 350-400g of milled plastic is required.\n\nAfter setting the materials and closing the heat press, heat the machine at 180°C for 30-40 minutes. During this time, keep increasing the pressure of the heat press to the maximum. Apply heat and pressure evenly, rotating and flipping the whole aluminum sandwich sheet during the process.\n\nThen turn off the press and allow the plastic to cool and harden in place while keeping the pressure applied. After at least four hours, and ideally overnight, the plastic should be nice and flat.\n\nOnce the plastic has cooled and hardened, peel it off from the frame, cut off the unnecessary parts with scissors, and your plastic sheet is ready!\n",
"images": [
{
"timeCreated": "2022-10-03T15:28:27.848Z",
@ -109,7 +109,7 @@
},
{
"_animationKey": "unique3",
"text": "Prepare a pegboard for guides. I used a pegboard measuring 11.8 x 7.9 inches (30 x 20 cm) with 5 mm holes spaced 25 mm apart.\n\nStack the pegboard on the plastic board and secure them with clamps. Drill 0.08-inch (2 mm) guide holes centered on the perforations.\n\nOnce the guide holes are complete, remove the pegboard. Secure the plastic board to the workbench and use a 0.2-inch (5 mm) drill bit to create the final holes based on the guides.",
"text": "Prepare a peg board for guides. I used \"Design Board 30cm x 20cm (natural x white): 110 yen\" from Daiso. The size of the holes is 5 mm and the hole spacing is 25 mm.\n\nStack the peg board on the plastic board and fix it with clamps to prevent it from moving. Aim at the center of the perforated board and drill guide holes 2 mm in diameter.\n\nAfter the guide holes are drilled, remove the perforated board and fix only the plastic board to the workbench. Replace the drill with one of 5 mm diameter and drill the actual holes as per the guide holes.\n",
"title": "Drill Holes",
"images": [
{
@ -139,7 +139,7 @@
]
},
{
"text": "After drilling all holes, remove any remaining plastic debris. Smooth the surface with an orbit sander. Sand up to about #2000 grit to achieve a bright color. \n\nThe plastic pegboard is now complete.\n\nFor questions, please contact pebbles.recycleplastic@gmail.com.",
"text": "After all holes are drilled, remove the remaining plastic debris around the holes. If there are too many burrs on the surface, use an orbit sander to finish the surface. If you apply up to about #2000, the color of the plastic will be bright.\n\nAnd voila! The plastic pegboard is now complete!\n\nIf you have any question regarding this How-to, please contact pebbles.recycleplastic@​gmail.com ;-)",
"images": [
{
"fullPath": "uploads/howtos/i1BB6VnFR7uQesmvLQNw/PXL_20220911_133119936.PORTRAIT (1)-1839e739c87.jpg",
@ -172,7 +172,7 @@
"fileLink": "",
"files": [],
"_contentModifiedTimestamp": "2023-06-22T14:52:59.389Z",
"description": "This method employs a heat press machine and an aluminum mold to create a plastic board, which is subsequently shaped into a perforated board.",
"description": "This method uses a heat press machine and an aluminum mold to make plastic board, which is then formed into perforated board.",
"tags": [
"PP",
"sheetpress",
@ -326,9 +326,5 @@
"images": []
}
},
"content": "This method employs a heat press machine and an aluminum mold to create a plastic board, which is subsequently shaped into a perforated board.\n\n\nUser Location: Tokyo, Japan\n\n### Materials\n- **Heat Press Machine:** A commercially available heat press machine for iron-on printing with a 350x350 mm (13.78x13.78 in) heat surface.\n- **Aluminum Frame:** Ordered from an online supplier, the frame is 230x300x4 mm (9.06x11.81x0.16 in) with a 5 mm (0.2 in) corner radius. It is sandwiched between two 2 mm (0.08 in) aluminum sheets and pressed.\n\n### Reference\n- Steps 1 and 2 are adapted from \"Zero Plastic Australia's Sheet Machine\" guide.\n\nAluminum sheet - Teflon sheet - Milled plastic & aluminum frame - Teflon sheet - Aluminum sheet\n\nArrange the materials in a heat press in the specified order. Apply silicone spray thoroughly to the aluminum frame. Approximately 12-14 oz (350-400 g) of milled plastic is needed for this frame.\n\nClose the heat press and set it to 356°F (180°C) for 30-40 minutes. Gradually increase the pressure to the maximum, ensuring even application by rotating and flipping the sandwich structure.\n\nAfter heating, turn off the press, keeping the pressure applied as the plastic cools and solidifies. Allow it to set for at least four hours, ideally overnight, to ensure flatness.\n\nOnce cool and solidified, remove the plastic sheet from the frame. Trim any excess with scissors, and the sheet is ready for use.\n\nPrepare a pegboard for guides. I used a pegboard measuring 11.8 x 7.9 inches (30 x 20 cm) with 5 mm holes spaced 25 mm apart.\n\nStack the pegboard on the plastic board and secure them with clamps. Drill 0.08-inch (2 mm) guide holes centered on the perforations.\n\nOnce the guide holes are complete, remove the pegboard. Secure the plastic board to the workbench and use a 0.2-inch (5 mm) drill bit to create the final holes based on the guides.\n\nAfter drilling all holes, remove any remaining plastic debris. Smooth the surface with an orbit sander. Sand up to about #2000 grit to achieve a bright color. \n\nThe plastic pegboard is now complete.\n\nFor questions, please contact pebbles.recycleplastic@gmail.com.",
"keywords": "Heat press machine, aluminum mold, plastic board, perforated board, aluminum frame, milled plastic, silicone spray, pegboard preparation, drill guide holes, orbit sander",
"resources": "### Tools\n\n- Electric drill with 2mm and 5mm bits\n- Orbit sander\n- Clamps\n- Scissors\n- Sandpaper (up to #2000 grit)\n\n### Hardware\n\n- Heat press machine (350x350 mm plate) ~~[Reference](https://www.zeroplastic.com.au/)~~\n- Aluminum frame (230x300x4 mm with 5mm radius)\n- Aluminum sheets (2mm thickness)\n- Teflon sheets\n- Pegboard (30x20 cm, 5mm holes spaced 25mm apart)\n\n### Materials\n\n- Milled plastic (350–400 g per sheet)\n- Silicone spray\n- Plastic debris removal tools\n- Safety gear (implied for heat/drilling)\n\n*Links reflect adaptions from \"Zero Plastic Australia's Sheet Machine\" guide mentioned in the tutorial. Specific suppliers aren’t listed in the source text.*",
"references": "### Articles\n\n- [Bending and forming PLEXIGLAS®](https://www.plexiglas.de/en/service/processing/bending-and-forming-plexiglas)\n- [Compression molding](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Compression_molding)\n- [Guide to Manufacturing Processes for Plastics](https://formlabs.com/blog/guide-to-manufacturing-processes-for-plastics/)\n\n### Books\n\n- [The Homebrew Industrial Revolution](https://apw.org.nz/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/HomeBrewRevolution_Carson.pdf)\n\n### Papers\n\n- [JRC-2020-TECHNOLOGY.pdf](https://elib.psu.by/bitstream/123456789/25333/1/JRC-2020-TECHNOLOGY.pdf)\n- [Thermoforming Manual](https://www.spartech.com/media/documents/SPA221062-Thermoforming-Manual.pdf)\n\n### YouTube\n\n- [Melting plastic waste into sheets](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0VibXPtIcxc)\n\n### Opensource Designs\n\n- Zero Plastic Australia's Sheet Machine\n- [filtered] Injection Machine\n- [$50 Plastic Shredder](https://www.instructables.com/50-Plastic-Shredder-Grinder-Recycler/)\n- Create a Peg Board",
"brief": "Create a plastic pegboard using a heat press and aluminum mold. Detailed steps guide you from shaping to drilling and finishing for a durable result."
"content": "This method uses a heat press machine and an aluminum mold to make plastic board, which is then formed into perforated board.\n\n\nUser Location: Tokyo, Japan\n\nHeat press machine...commercially available heat press machine for iron-on printing. The one I am using has a 350x350(mm) heat surface.\nAluminum frame...I found a supplier online that sells and processes aluminum sheet metal and placed an order. 230x300x4(mm) rectangular frame with 5mm radius on the corners. This aluminum frame is sandwiched between two aluminum sheets (2 mm) and pressed.\n\nSteps 1 and 2 are based on \"Zero Plastic Australia's Sheet Machine\" by Zero Plastic Australia. Please refer to this one too!\n\n\n\n\nAluminum sheet - Teflon sheet - Milled plastic & aluminum frame - Teflon sheet - Aluminum sheet\nThe materials are set in the heat press machine in a sandwich condition like the above. At this time, it is recommended to spray the aluminum frame thoroughly with silicone spray. For this aluminum frame, roughly 350-400g of milled plastic is required.\n\nAfter setting the materials and closing the heat press, heat the machine at 180°C for 30-40 minutes. During this time, keep increasing the pressure of the heat press to the maximum. Apply heat and pressure evenly, rotating and flipping the whole aluminum sandwich sheet during the process.\n\nThen turn off the press and allow the plastic to cool and harden in place while keeping the pressure applied. After at least four hours, and ideally overnight, the plastic should be nice and flat.\n\nOnce the plastic has cooled and hardened, peel it off from the frame, cut off the unnecessary parts with scissors, and your plastic sheet is ready!\n\n\nPrepare a peg board for guides. I used \"Design Board 30cm x 20cm (natural x white): 110 yen\" from Daiso. The size of the holes is 5 mm and the hole spacing is 25 mm.\n\nStack the peg board on the plastic board and fix it with clamps to prevent it from moving. Aim at the center of the perforated board and drill guide holes 2 mm in diameter.\n\nAfter the guide holes are drilled, remove the perforated board and fix only the plastic board to the workbench. Replace the drill with one of 5 mm diameter and drill the actual holes as per the guide holes.\n\n\nAfter all holes are drilled, remove the remaining plastic debris around the holes. If there are too many burrs on the surface, use an orbit sander to finish the surface. If you apply up to about #2000, the color of the plastic will be bright.\n\nAnd voila! The plastic pegboard is now complete!\n\nIf you have any question regarding this How-to, please contact pebbles.recycleplastic@​gmail.com ;-)"
}

109
howtos/create-a-shut-off-for-the-beam-mould/README.md
View File

@ -1,68 +1,35 @@
---
title: Create a shut off for the beam mould
slug: create-a-shut-off-for-the-beam-mould
description: ### How to Create a Shut-Off for the Beam Mold
This guide explains how to create a shut-off mechanism for a beam mold, ensuring no plastic leakage after detachment from the extrusion machine.
**Materials Needed:**
- Measurements: Ensure compatibility with both metric and imperial units.
**Instructions:**
1. **Design the Shut-Off:**
- Develop a closure system that securely seals the mold opening.
2. **Gather Necessary Tools:**
- Utilize appropriate tools for precise fittings.
3. **Integrate Mechanism:**
- Attach the shut-off to the mold ensuring a snug fit.
4. **Test the Seal:**
- Conduct trials to verify the efficacy of the seal in preventing leaks.
Follow these steps for an effective solution.
description: Making a shut off for the beam mould to prevent plastic flowing out after disconnecting from the extrusion machine.
tags: ["untagged","extrusion","mould"]
category: Moulds
difficulty: Medium
time: < 1 hour
keywords: shut-off mechanism, beam mold creation, plastic leakage prevention, extrusion machine tips, mold closure design, precision tool use, sealing mold openings, extrusion cooling solutions, overpressure control, waste reduction in molding
keywords:
location: Tampaksiring, Indonesia
---
# Create a shut off for the beam mould
![Create a shut off for the beam mould](shut_off_plate_6-186ea6dc570.jpeg)
### How to Create a Shut-Off for the Beam Mold
This guide explains how to create a shut-off mechanism for a beam mold, ensuring no plastic leakage after detachment from the extrusion machine.
**Materials Needed:**
- Measurements: Ensure compatibility with both metric and imperial units.
**Instructions:**
1. **Design the Shut-Off:**
- Develop a closure system that securely seals the mold opening.
2. **Gather Necessary Tools:**
- Utilize appropriate tools for precise fittings.
3. **Integrate Mechanism:**
- Attach the shut-off to the mold ensuring a snug fit.
4. **Test the Seal:**
- Conduct trials to verify the efficacy of the seal in preventing leaks.
Follow these steps for an effective solution.
Making a shut off for the beam mould to prevent plastic flowing out after disconnecting from the extrusion machine.
User Location: Tampaksiring, Indonesia
## Steps
### Step 1: The problem of plastic flowing out of the mould
When using the extrusion machine, we aimed to control the plastic outflow once the mold is filled and detached from the nozzle. Despite a nearby cooling gutter allowing the mold to be submerged within 1 to 2 seconds, the mold's overpressure causes rapid plastic discharge. This results in additional waste and requires time and effort to clean. Our solution is as follows:
When working with the extrusion machine and fine tuning the process we wanted to address the outflow of plastic when the mould has filled and you unscrew it from the nozzle of the extrusion machine. We have a cooling gutter close by so the mould goes within a second or 2 in the water. Still the overpressure in the mould makes the molten plastic flow out quickly.
Its extra waste and it takes time and effort to remove it. We came up with this:
![shut off plate 0-186ea7103d7.jpeg](./shut_off_plate_0-186ea7103d7.jpeg)
### Step 2: Make a third plate
To close the beam mold from the extrusion machine while it remains connected, use an additional steel plate with matching dimensions and hole pattern to the other two plates. Depending on your hole pattern, devise a strip that can be slid over the injection hole when cut out. We used an arrow shape to establish a fixed stopping point.
To be able to close of the beam mould from the extrusion machine while still connected to it, make use of an extra steel plate. This plate has the same dimensions and hole pattern as the 2 other plates.
Depending of your hole pattern, think of the best way to create a strip that, if cut out, can slide over the injection hole. We made an arrow shape to create a fixed stopping point.
![shut off plate 1-186ea75757b.jpeg](./shut_off_plate_1-186ea75757b.jpeg)
@ -72,7 +39,7 @@ To close the beam mold from the extrusion machine while it remains connected, us
### Step 3: Make a smart hole pattern
After cutting out the slide strip, attach the two symmetrical parts to the nozzle plate and tack weld them (refer to image 1). Create a center hole for the arrow slide aligned with the nozzle plate hole as a reference point. We found it effective to extend 1.57 inches (4 cm) from the center point to drill two holes: one 0.16 inches (4 mm) near the arrowhead and another 0.79 inches (20 mm) further. In the open position, the 0.79-inch hole aligns with the nozzle hole (refer to image 3). In this alignment, drill the 0.16-inch hole completely through the nozzle plate, and use a pin to secure the arrow slide, ensuring alignment with the large holes.
After you cut out the slide strip you can attach the 2 symmetrical parts to your nozzle plate and tag weld them to it (see pic 1). Give the arrow slide a center hole thats inline with the nozzle plate hole. This is your reference point. For us it worked best to go 4cm each way of the center point to create two holes. One 4mm close to the arrow head and the other 20mm on the other side. When the arrow slide is in its open position the 20mm and the nozzle hole are inline (See pic 3). In this position you can drill the 4mm hole all the way trough the nozzle plate. Use any kind of pin to secure the arrow slide in place so the big holes are aligned.
![shut off plate 3-186ea7ac88a.jpeg](./shut_off_plate_3-186ea7ac88a.jpeg)
@ -85,9 +52,9 @@ After cutting out the slide strip, attach the two symmetrical parts to the nozzl
### Step 4: Ready to rumble!
### Assembly and Extrusion Process
Drill an additional 0.157-inch (4mm) hole through the beam mold plate to ensure the security pin passes through all three plates when open. Begin extrusion by sealing the end of the mold, leaving only a 0.197-inch (5mm) pressure relief hole as a fill indicator. Continue extruding slightly longer to apply pressure to the beam. Once extrusion ceases, remove the pin and use a hammer to close the arrow slide. Unscrew the mold carefully, allowing it to cool appropriately. After cooling, detach the nozzle plate. The beam should slide out easily, or lightly tap the back if needed. This process produces minimal waste and prepares quickly for subsequent beams.
Now its time to put everything together. One extra 4mm hole needs to be drilled trough your beam mould plate. This way the security pin goes trough all 3 plates when in the open position. Time to start extruding! We have the end of the mould welded shut with only a 5mm pressure releave hole. This is also the indicator when the mould has filled. We let the extruder run a little bit after that to put some pressure on the beam. After stopping the extrusion machine, pull the pin and tap the arrow slide shut with a hammer. Now you can unscrew the mould relaxed and gently let in cool in whatever way work best for you.
After cooling down, remove the nozzle plate. The beam should slide out or its needs a few taps at the back!
Minimal waste and ready fast for the next beam.
![shut off plate 6-186ea87c156.jpeg](./shut_off_plate_6-186ea87c156.jpeg)
@ -96,50 +63,4 @@ Drill an additional 0.157-inch (4mm) hole through the beam mold plate to ensure
![shut off plate 7-186ea87d048.jpeg](./shut_off_plate_7-186ea87d048.jpeg)
## Resources
To address the extrusion mold shut-off challenge, the solution involves precise mechanical modifications and specialized tools. Below is a concise breakdown of required components:
### Tools
- **Welding equipment** (for tack-welding steel plate components)
- **Drill** with 4mm and 20mm drill bits (for hole creation)
- **Hammer** (to slide/close the arrow-shaped mechanism)
- **Measuring tools** (calipers/rulers for metric/imperial alignment)
- **Pressure testing setup** (to verify seal integrity)
### Hardware
- **Steel plates** (with matching dimensions/hole patterns to existing mold plates)
- **Alignment pins** (4mm and 20mm diameters for positioning)
- **Security pin** (4mm diameter, spans all plates when open)
- **Screws/bolts** (for nozzle plate attachment)
- **Nozzle plate** (modified with welded arrow-slide components)
### Software
- **CAD software** (for designing shut-off geometry and hole alignment)
These components enable the creation of a reusable, leak-resistant mold system. The process emphasizes precision in drilling (±0.5mm tolerance) and robust welding to withstand extrusion pressures exceeding 50 bar[1][3].
## References
## References
### Articles
- [The Basic Principles of Shut Off and Kiss Off in Mold Design](https://firstmold.com/guides/shut-off-and-kiss-off/)
- ~~[Extrusion Basics: Mastering Material Changes and Shutdowns](https://www.plasticstoday.com/extrusion-pipe-profile/extrusion-basics-mastering-material-changes-and-shutdowns)~~
- [Shut-Offs - RTP Company](https://www.rtpcompany.com/technical-info/molding-guidelines/tpe-molding-guidelines/shut-offs/)
- [DIY Injection Molding: How to Mold Plastic Parts In-House](https://formlabs.com/blog/diy-injection-molding/)
- [How to Incorporate Shut Offs in Injection Molding](https://www.protolabs.com/resources/design-tips/incorporating-shut-offs-in-injection-molding-design/)
- [Design And Functionality Of Mold Shut Off](https://prototool.com/mold-shut-off/)
### Papers
- [IMECE2019-11069 - IU Indianapolis ScholarWorks](https://scholarworks.indianapolis.iu.edu/bitstreams/4a7aec92-dd98-4d12-ad76-d508b578c4a4/download)
### YouTube
- [Plastic Extrusion - Operation, Shutdown and Maintenance Procedures](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rf5DQR5qXxU)
- [STL to 3D Printed Injection Mold | Fusion 360 Mesh](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KisgYeYaagI)
### Opensource Designs
- [Step by Step Tutorial on Injection Mold Design - FreeCAD Forum](https://forum.freecad.org/viewtopic.php?style=1\&t=62057)
## References

16
howtos/create-a-shut-off-for-the-beam-mould/config.json
View File

@ -24,7 +24,7 @@
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"files": [],
"description": "### How to Create a Shut-Off for the Beam Mold\n\nThis guide explains how to create a shut-off mechanism for a beam mold, ensuring no plastic leakage after detachment from the extrusion machine. \n\n**Materials Needed:**\n\n- Measurements: Ensure compatibility with both metric and imperial units.\n\n**Instructions:**\n\n1. **Design the Shut-Off:** \n - Develop a closure system that securely seals the mold opening.\n2. **Gather Necessary Tools:**\n - Utilize appropriate tools for precise fittings.\n3. **Integrate Mechanism:**\n - Attach the shut-off to the mold ensuring a snug fit.\n4. **Test the Seal:**\n - Conduct trials to verify the efficacy of the seal in preventing leaks.\n \nFollow these steps for an effective solution.",
"description": "Making a shut off for the beam mould to prevent plastic flowing out after disconnecting from the extrusion machine. ",
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"_deleted": false,
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"text": "When using the extrusion machine, we aimed to control the plastic outflow once the mold is filled and detached from the nozzle. Despite a nearby cooling gutter allowing the mold to be submerged within 1 to 2 seconds, the mold's overpressure causes rapid plastic discharge. This results in additional waste and requires time and effort to clean. Our solution is as follows:",
"text": "When working with the extrusion machine and fine tuning the process we wanted to address the outflow of plastic when the mould has filled and you unscrew it from the nozzle of the extrusion machine. We have a cooling gutter close by so the mould goes within a second or 2 in the water. Still the overpressure in the mould makes the molten plastic flow out quickly. \nIts extra waste and it takes time and effort to remove it. We came up with this:",
"title": "The problem of plastic flowing out of the mould"
},
{
"_animationKey": "unique2",
"title": "Make a third plate",
"text": "To close the beam mold from the extrusion machine while it remains connected, use an additional steel plate with matching dimensions and hole pattern to the other two plates. Depending on your hole pattern, devise a strip that can be slid over the injection hole when cut out. We used an arrow shape to establish a fixed stopping point.",
"text": "To be able to close of the beam mould from the extrusion machine while still connected to it, make use of an extra steel plate. This plate has the same dimensions and hole pattern as the 2 other plates.\nDepending of your hole pattern, think of the best way to create a strip that, if cut out, can slide over the injection hole. We made an arrow shape to create a fixed stopping point.\n\n\n",
"images": [
{
"timeCreated": "2023-03-16T13:21:43.906Z",
@ -90,7 +90,7 @@
]
},
{
"text": "After cutting out the slide strip, attach the two symmetrical parts to the nozzle plate and tack weld them (refer to image 1). Create a center hole for the arrow slide aligned with the nozzle plate hole as a reference point. We found it effective to extend 1.57 inches (4 cm) from the center point to drill two holes: one 0.16 inches (4 mm) near the arrowhead and another 0.79 inches (20 mm) further. In the open position, the 0.79-inch hole aligns with the nozzle hole (refer to image 3). In this alignment, drill the 0.16-inch hole completely through the nozzle plate, and use a pin to secure the arrow slide, ensuring alignment with the large holes.",
"text": "After you cut out the slide strip you can attach the 2 symmetrical parts to your nozzle plate and tag weld them to it (see pic 1). Give the arrow slide a center hole thats inline with the nozzle plate hole. This is your reference point. For us it worked best to go 4cm each way of the center point to create two holes. One 4mm close to the arrow head and the other 20mm on the other side. When the arrow slide is in its open position the 20mm and the nozzle hole are inline (See pic 3). In this position you can drill the 4mm hole all the way trough the nozzle plate. Use any kind of pin to secure the arrow slide in place so the big holes are aligned. ",
"_animationKey": "unique3",
"title": "Make a smart hole pattern",
"images": [
@ -161,7 +161,7 @@
"alt": "shut off plate 7-186ea87d048.jpeg"
}
],
"text": "### Assembly and Extrusion Process\n\nDrill an additional 0.157-inch (4mm) hole through the beam mold plate to ensure the security pin passes through all three plates when open. Begin extrusion by sealing the end of the mold, leaving only a 0.197-inch (5mm) pressure relief hole as a fill indicator. Continue extruding slightly longer to apply pressure to the beam. Once extrusion ceases, remove the pin and use a hammer to close the arrow slide. Unscrew the mold carefully, allowing it to cool appropriately. After cooling, detach the nozzle plate. The beam should slide out easily, or lightly tap the back if needed. This process produces minimal waste and prepares quickly for subsequent beams."
"text": "Now its time to put everything together. One extra 4mm hole needs to be drilled trough your beam mould plate. This way the security pin goes trough all 3 plates when in the open position. Time to start extruding! We have the end of the mould welded shut with only a 5mm pressure releave hole. This is also the indicator when the mould has filled. We let the extruder run a little bit after that to put some pressure on the beam. After stopping the extrusion machine, pull the pin and tap the arrow slide shut with a hammer. Now you can unscrew the mould relaxed and gently let in cool in whatever way work best for you. \nAfter cooling down, remove the nozzle plate. The beam should slide out or its needs a few taps at the back!\nMinimal waste and ready fast for the next beam."
}
],
"votedUsefulBy": [
@ -331,9 +331,5 @@
"images": []
}
},
"content": "### How to Create a Shut-Off for the Beam Mold\n\nThis guide explains how to create a shut-off mechanism for a beam mold, ensuring no plastic leakage after detachment from the extrusion machine. \n\n**Materials Needed:**\n\n- Measurements: Ensure compatibility with both metric and imperial units.\n\n**Instructions:**\n\n1. **Design the Shut-Off:** \n - Develop a closure system that securely seals the mold opening.\n2. **Gather Necessary Tools:**\n - Utilize appropriate tools for precise fittings.\n3. **Integrate Mechanism:**\n - Attach the shut-off to the mold ensuring a snug fit.\n4. **Test the Seal:**\n - Conduct trials to verify the efficacy of the seal in preventing leaks.\n \nFollow these steps for an effective solution.\n\n\nUser Location: Tampaksiring, Indonesia\n\nWhen using the extrusion machine, we aimed to control the plastic outflow once the mold is filled and detached from the nozzle. Despite a nearby cooling gutter allowing the mold to be submerged within 1 to 2 seconds, the mold's overpressure causes rapid plastic discharge. This results in additional waste and requires time and effort to clean. Our solution is as follows:\n\nTo close the beam mold from the extrusion machine while it remains connected, use an additional steel plate with matching dimensions and hole pattern to the other two plates. Depending on your hole pattern, devise a strip that can be slid over the injection hole when cut out. We used an arrow shape to establish a fixed stopping point.\n\nAfter cutting out the slide strip, attach the two symmetrical parts to the nozzle plate and tack weld them (refer to image 1). Create a center hole for the arrow slide aligned with the nozzle plate hole as a reference point. We found it effective to extend 1.57 inches (4 cm) from the center point to drill two holes: one 0.16 inches (4 mm) near the arrowhead and another 0.79 inches (20 mm) further. In the open position, the 0.79-inch hole aligns with the nozzle hole (refer to image 3). In this alignment, drill the 0.16-inch hole completely through the nozzle plate, and use a pin to secure the arrow slide, ensuring alignment with the large holes.\n\n### Assembly and Extrusion Process\n\nDrill an additional 0.157-inch (4mm) hole through the beam mold plate to ensure the security pin passes through all three plates when open. Begin extrusion by sealing the end of the mold, leaving only a 0.197-inch (5mm) pressure relief hole as a fill indicator. Continue extruding slightly longer to apply pressure to the beam. Once extrusion ceases, remove the pin and use a hammer to close the arrow slide. Unscrew the mold carefully, allowing it to cool appropriately. After cooling, detach the nozzle plate. The beam should slide out easily, or lightly tap the back if needed. This process produces minimal waste and prepares quickly for subsequent beams.",
"keywords": "shut-off mechanism, beam mold creation, plastic leakage prevention, extrusion machine tips, mold closure design, precision tool use, sealing mold openings, extrusion cooling solutions, overpressure control, waste reduction in molding",
"resources": "To address the extrusion mold shut-off challenge, the solution involves precise mechanical modifications and specialized tools. Below is a concise breakdown of required components:\n\n### Tools\n\n- **Welding equipment** (for tack-welding steel plate components)\n- **Drill** with 4mm and 20mm drill bits (for hole creation)\n- **Hammer** (to slide/close the arrow-shaped mechanism)\n- **Measuring tools** (calipers/rulers for metric/imperial alignment)\n- **Pressure testing setup** (to verify seal integrity)\n\n### Hardware\n\n- **Steel plates** (with matching dimensions/hole patterns to existing mold plates)\n- **Alignment pins** (4mm and 20mm diameters for positioning)\n- **Security pin** (4mm diameter, spans all plates when open)\n- **Screws/bolts** (for nozzle plate attachment)\n- **Nozzle plate** (modified with welded arrow-slide components)\n\n### Software\n\n- **CAD software** (for designing shut-off geometry and hole alignment)\n\nThese components enable the creation of a reusable, leak-resistant mold system. The process emphasizes precision in drilling (±0.5mm tolerance) and robust welding to withstand extrusion pressures exceeding 50 bar[1][3].",
"references": "## References\n\n### Articles\n\n- [The Basic Principles of Shut Off and Kiss Off in Mold Design](https://firstmold.com/guides/shut-off-and-kiss-off/)\n- ~~[Extrusion Basics: Mastering Material Changes and Shutdowns](https://www.plasticstoday.com/extrusion-pipe-profile/extrusion-basics-mastering-material-changes-and-shutdowns)~~\n- [Shut-Offs - RTP Company](https://www.rtpcompany.com/technical-info/molding-guidelines/tpe-molding-guidelines/shut-offs/)\n- [DIY Injection Molding: How to Mold Plastic Parts In-House](https://formlabs.com/blog/diy-injection-molding/)\n- [How to Incorporate Shut Offs in Injection Molding](https://www.protolabs.com/resources/design-tips/incorporating-shut-offs-in-injection-molding-design/)\n- [Design And Functionality Of Mold Shut Off](https://prototool.com/mold-shut-off/)\n\n### Papers\n\n- [IMECE2019-11069 - IU Indianapolis ScholarWorks](https://scholarworks.indianapolis.iu.edu/bitstreams/4a7aec92-dd98-4d12-ad76-d508b578c4a4/download)\n\n### YouTube\n\n- [Plastic Extrusion - Operation, Shutdown and Maintenance Procedures](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rf5DQR5qXxU)\n- [STL to 3D Printed Injection Mold | Fusion 360 Mesh](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KisgYeYaagI)\n\n### Opensource Designs\n\n- [Step by Step Tutorial on Injection Mold Design - FreeCAD Forum](https://forum.freecad.org/viewtopic.php?style=1\\&t=62057)",
"brief": "Create a shut-off for a beam mold to prevent plastic leakage after detachment, using precise tools and tested mechanisms for effective extrusion control."
"content": "Making a shut off for the beam mould to prevent plastic flowing out after disconnecting from the extrusion machine. \n\n\nUser Location: Tampaksiring, Indonesia\n\nWhen working with the extrusion machine and fine tuning the process we wanted to address the outflow of plastic when the mould has filled and you unscrew it from the nozzle of the extrusion machine. We have a cooling gutter close by so the mould goes within a second or 2 in the water. Still the overpressure in the mould makes the molten plastic flow out quickly. \nIts extra waste and it takes time and effort to remove it. We came up with this:\n\nTo be able to close of the beam mould from the extrusion machine while still connected to it, make use of an extra steel plate. This plate has the same dimensions and hole pattern as the 2 other plates.\nDepending of your hole pattern, think of the best way to create a strip that, if cut out, can slide over the injection hole. We made an arrow shape to create a fixed stopping point.\n\n\n\n\nAfter you cut out the slide strip you can attach the 2 symmetrical parts to your nozzle plate and tag weld them to it (see pic 1). Give the arrow slide a center hole thats inline with the nozzle plate hole. This is your reference point. For us it worked best to go 4cm each way of the center point to create two holes. One 4mm close to the arrow head and the other 20mm on the other side. When the arrow slide is in its open position the 20mm and the nozzle hole are inline (See pic 3). In this position you can drill the 4mm hole all the way trough the nozzle plate. Use any kind of pin to secure the arrow slide in place so the big holes are aligned. \n\nNow its time to put everything together. One extra 4mm hole needs to be drilled trough your beam mould plate. This way the security pin goes trough all 3 plates when in the open position. Time to start extruding! We have the end of the mould welded shut with only a 5mm pressure releave hole. This is also the indicator when the mould has filled. We let the extruder run a little bit after that to put some pressure on the beam. After stopping the extrusion machine, pull the pin and tap the arrow slide shut with a hammer. Now you can unscrew the mould relaxed and gently let in cool in whatever way work best for you. \nAfter cooling down, remove the nozzle plate. The beam should slide out or its needs a few taps at the back!\nMinimal waste and ready fast for the next beam."
}

61
howtos/create-a-sports-medal-with-clear-acrilic-inlay/README.md
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@ -1,37 +1,37 @@
---
title: Create a Sports Medal with Clear Acrilic Inlay
slug: create-a-sports-medal-with-clear-acrilic-inlay
description: Create injection-molded medals with engraved acrylic inlays. Use polypropylene (PP) and clear acrylic pieces 0.12 inches (3mm) thick.
description: Create stylish injection molded medals with engraved acrylic inlays. In our case we used PP for the plastic and 3mm clear acrylic off-cuts.
tags: ["product","PP","HDPE","injection"]
category: Products
difficulty: Medium
time: < 5 hours
keywords: injection-molded medals, engraved acrylic inlays, polypropylene medals, acrylic logo inlay, medal manufacturing process, injection molding Kenya, custom medals design, Adobe Illustrator medal design, polypropylene flakes, acrylic pocket mold
keywords:
location: Kiambu, Kenya
---
# Create a Sports Medal with Clear Acrilic Inlay
![Create a Sports Medal with Clear Acrilic Inlay](IMG-6680-1881f058815.jpg)
Create injection-molded medals with engraved acrylic inlays. Use polypropylene (PP) and clear acrylic pieces 0.12 inches (3mm) thick.
Create stylish injection molded medals with engraved acrylic inlays. In our case we used PP for the plastic and 3mm clear acrylic off-cuts.
User Location: Kiambu, Kenya
## Steps
### Step 1: Create mold designs using 2D CAD program
We used Adobe Illustrator to create three designs: one for the acrylic inlay, one for the logo outline, and one for the pocket to hold the inlay. Include a small extension indicator on both the pocket and acrylic inlay to ensure the correct orientation of the logo within the mold.
We used Adobe Illustrator. Create a design for the acrylic inlay, one for the logo outline, and one for the pocket into which we will place the acrylic inlay. Make sure to include a small extension indicator (see photo) to your pocket and acrilic inlay to help the correct orientation of the logo within the mold
![Screenshot 2023-05-15 at 1.59.04 PM-1881f1079f2.png](./Screenshot_2023-05-15_at_1.59.04_PM-1881f1079f2.png)
### Step 2: Stack the molds in the correct order.
Place the engraved acrylic logo inlay into the pocket mold, then position the medal outline mold on top. Insert this stack between the steel molds connected to the injection machine.
Place the engraved acrilic logo inlay into the pocket mold then place the medal outline mold on top. Put this stack between the top and bottom steel molds which connect to injection machine.
![PXL_20230515_110331627-1881f16e0f2.jpg](./PXL_20230515_110331627-1881f16e0f2.jpg)
### Step 3: Inject, attach ring and ribbon
Inject the plastic into the mold. For this example, we used gray polypropylene flakes for the medal. Remove the molded product, drill a hole, and attach a ring and a ribbon. Complete!
Inject the plactic into the mold. In our case we used gray pp flakes for the silver medal. Remove the injected product. Drill a hole, attach a ring and a ribbon of choice. Done!
![PXL_20220824_104003681-1881f0c7938.jpg](./PXL_20220824_104003681-1881f0c7938.jpg)
@ -40,51 +40,4 @@ Inject the plastic into the mold. For this example, we used gray polypropylene f
![PXL_20230515_083954273-1881f10dab7.jpg](./PXL_20230515_083954273-1881f10dab7.jpg)
## Resources
To create injection-molded medals with acrylic inlays, the following tools, software, and materials are required based on the described process:
### Software
- Adobe Illustrator (for designing acrylic inlay, logo outline, and pocket mold)
### Hardware
- Injection molding machine
- Steel molds (for pocket, outline, and stack assembly)
### Materials
- Polypropylene (PP) flakes (gray)
- Clear acrylic sheets (3mm thickness)
- Metal rings (for attaching ribbons)
- Ribbons
### Tools
- Laser engraving machine (for acrylic inlay engraving)
- Drilling tool (for creating attachment hole)
## References
## References
### Articles
- [Acrylic Injection Molding Process: The Complete Guide](https://baiwemolding.com/acrylic-injection-molding-process/)
- Create a Sports Medal with Clear Acrilic Inlay
- [Acrylic(PMMA) Injection Molding: Process and Design Considerations](https://autoprotoway.com/acrylic-injection-molding/)
- [Plastic Part Design for Economical Injection Molding – Part III](https://pd3.4spe.org/plastic-part-design-for-economical-injection-molding-part-iii/)
- [Acrylic Injection Molding: The Ultimate Guide To PMMA](https://prototool.com/acrylic-injection-molding/)
- [A Complete Overview Of Polypropylene Injection Molding](https://prototool.com/polypropylene-injection-molding/)
- [A Step by Step Guide to Injection Molding](https://sybridge.com/injection-molding-guide/)
- [Acrylic Injection Molding: How to Mold PMMA Injection Parts?](https://xcmachining.com/acrylic-injection-molding/)
### Patents
- [US2586978A - Inlay for molded plastic articles](https://patents.google.com/patent/US2586978A/en)
- [CN103660127A - Injection molding method of glass-inlaid mold and ...](https://patents.google.com/patent/CN103660127A/en)
### Opensource Designs
- [DIY Injection Molding: How to Mold Plastic Parts In-House](https://formlabs.com/blog/diy-injection-molding/)
### Company Pages
- [Custom Online Acrylic Molding Service by Xometry](https://www.xometry.com/capabilities/injection-molding-service/acrylic-molding/)
## References

14
howtos/create-a-sports-medal-with-clear-acrilic-inlay/config.json
View File

@ -42,7 +42,7 @@
"_id": "AFtVZGYiyHHrAbXzzAu4",
"steps": [
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"text": "We used Adobe Illustrator to create three designs: one for the acrylic inlay, one for the logo outline, and one for the pocket to hold the inlay. Include a small extension indicator on both the pocket and acrylic inlay to ensure the correct orientation of the logo within the mold.",
"text": "We used Adobe Illustrator. Create a design for the acrylic inlay, one for the logo outline, and one for the pocket into which we will place the acrylic inlay. Make sure to include a small extension indicator (see photo) to your pocket and acrilic inlay to help the correct orientation of the logo within the mold",
"title": "Create mold designs using 2D CAD program",
"images": [
{
@ -75,13 +75,13 @@
"alt": "PXL_20230515_110331627-1881f16e0f2.jpg"
}
],
"text": "Place the engraved acrylic logo inlay into the pocket mold, then position the medal outline mold on top. Insert this stack between the steel molds connected to the injection machine.",
"text": "Place the engraved acrilic logo inlay into the pocket mold then place the medal outline mold on top. Put this stack between the top and bottom steel molds which connect to injection machine.",
"title": "Stack the molds in the correct order.",
"_animationKey": "unique2"
},
{
"title": "Inject, attach ring and ribbon",
"text": "Inject the plastic into the mold. For this example, we used gray polypropylene flakes for the medal. Remove the molded product, drill a hole, and attach a ring and a ribbon. Complete!",
"text": "Inject the plactic into the mold. In our case we used gray pp flakes for the silver medal. Remove the injected product. Drill a hole, attach a ring and a ribbon of choice. Done!",
"_animationKey": "unique3",
"images": [
{
@ -121,7 +121,7 @@
],
"files": [],
"total_downloads": 0,
"description": "Create injection-molded medals with engraved acrylic inlays. Use polypropylene (PP) and clear acrylic pieces 0.12 inches (3mm) thick.",
"description": "Create stylish injection molded medals with engraved acrylic inlays. In our case we used PP for the plastic and 3mm clear acrylic off-cuts. ",
"comments": [
{
"creatorCountry": "",
@ -307,9 +307,5 @@
"urls": []
}
},
"content": "Create injection-molded medals with engraved acrylic inlays. Use polypropylene (PP) and clear acrylic pieces 0.12 inches (3mm) thick.\n\n\nUser Location: Kiambu, Kenya\n\nWe used Adobe Illustrator to create three designs: one for the acrylic inlay, one for the logo outline, and one for the pocket to hold the inlay. Include a small extension indicator on both the pocket and acrylic inlay to ensure the correct orientation of the logo within the mold.\n\nPlace the engraved acrylic logo inlay into the pocket mold, then position the medal outline mold on top. Insert this stack between the steel molds connected to the injection machine.\n\nInject the plastic into the mold. For this example, we used gray polypropylene flakes for the medal. Remove the molded product, drill a hole, and attach a ring and a ribbon. Complete!",
"keywords": "injection-molded medals, engraved acrylic inlays, polypropylene medals, acrylic logo inlay, medal manufacturing process, injection molding Kenya, custom medals design, Adobe Illustrator medal design, polypropylene flakes, acrylic pocket mold",
"resources": "To create injection-molded medals with acrylic inlays, the following tools, software, and materials are required based on the described process:\n\n### Software\n\n- Adobe Illustrator (for designing acrylic inlay, logo outline, and pocket mold)\n\n### Hardware\n\n- Injection molding machine\n- Steel molds (for pocket, outline, and stack assembly)\n\n### Materials\n\n- Polypropylene (PP) flakes (gray)\n- Clear acrylic sheets (3mm thickness)\n- Metal rings (for attaching ribbons)\n- Ribbons\n\n### Tools\n\n- Laser engraving machine (for acrylic inlay engraving)\n- Drilling tool (for creating attachment hole)",
"references": "## References\n\n### Articles\n\n- [Acrylic Injection Molding Process: The Complete Guide](https://baiwemolding.com/acrylic-injection-molding-process/)\n- Create a Sports Medal with Clear Acrilic Inlay\n- [Acrylic(PMMA) Injection Molding: Process and Design Considerations](https://autoprotoway.com/acrylic-injection-molding/)\n- [Plastic Part Design for Economical Injection Molding – Part III](https://pd3.4spe.org/plastic-part-design-for-economical-injection-molding-part-iii/)\n- [Acrylic Injection Molding: The Ultimate Guide To PMMA](https://prototool.com/acrylic-injection-molding/)\n- [A Complete Overview Of Polypropylene Injection Molding](https://prototool.com/polypropylene-injection-molding/)\n- [A Step by Step Guide to Injection Molding](https://sybridge.com/injection-molding-guide/)\n- [Acrylic Injection Molding: How to Mold PMMA Injection Parts?](https://xcmachining.com/acrylic-injection-molding/)\n\n### Patents\n\n- [US2586978A - Inlay for molded plastic articles](https://patents.google.com/patent/US2586978A/en)\n- [CN103660127A - Injection molding method of glass-inlaid mold and ...](https://patents.google.com/patent/CN103660127A/en)\n\n### Opensource Designs\n\n- [DIY Injection Molding: How to Mold Plastic Parts In-House](https://formlabs.com/blog/diy-injection-molding/)\n\n### Company Pages\n\n- [Custom Online Acrylic Molding Service by Xometry](https://www.xometry.com/capabilities/injection-molding-service/acrylic-molding/)",
"brief": "Create unique injection-molded medals with engraved acrylic inlays using polypropylene and clear acrylic. Precision design ensures perfect orientation for logos."
"content": "Create stylish injection molded medals with engraved acrylic inlays. In our case we used PP for the plastic and 3mm clear acrylic off-cuts. \n\n\nUser Location: Kiambu, Kenya\n\nWe used Adobe Illustrator. Create a design for the acrylic inlay, one for the logo outline, and one for the pocket into which we will place the acrylic inlay. Make sure to include a small extension indicator (see photo) to your pocket and acrilic inlay to help the correct orientation of the logo within the mold\n\nPlace the engraved acrilic logo inlay into the pocket mold then place the medal outline mold on top. Put this stack between the top and bottom steel molds which connect to injection machine.\n\nInject the plactic into the mold. In our case we used gray pp flakes for the silver medal. Remove the injected product. Drill a hole, attach a ring and a ribbon of choice. Done!"
}

199
howtos/creating-beams-out-of-hdpe-plastic-bags/README.md
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@ -1,69 +1,64 @@
---
title: Creating Beams out of HDPE plastic bags
slug: creating-beams-out-of-hdpe-plastic-bags
description: # HDPE Plastic Bag Beam Tutorial
This guide outlines the steps to convert HDPE plastic bags into beams using basic tools, without the need for specialized machinery like shredders or injection machines. If a long clamp is available, additional instructions at the end can help improve beam quality.
description: In this guide, I will walk you through the steps to make HDPE plastic bags into beams. This process is also done without fancy machinery such as a shredder or injection machine. If you have access to a long clamp I recommend following the steps at the bottom to make a better beam.
tags: ["compression","injection","melting","HDPE"]
category: Guides
difficulty: Medium
time: < 5 hours
keywords: HDPE plastic beams, plastic recycling tutorial, DIY plastic beam, HDPE bag conversion, plastic molding process, homemade plastic beams, eco-friendly construction, plastic bag recycling, DIY recycling projects, plastic beam tutorial
keywords:
location: Indialantic-Melbourne Beach, United States of America (the)
---
# Creating Beams out of HDPE plastic bags
![Creating Beams out of HDPE plastic bags](IMG_8333-18bf317a97a.jpg)
# HDPE Plastic Bag Beam Tutorial
This guide outlines the steps to convert HDPE plastic bags into beams using basic tools, without the need for specialized machinery like shredders or injection machines. If a long clamp is available, additional instructions at the end can help improve beam quality.
In this guide, I will walk you through the steps to make HDPE plastic bags into beams. This process is also done without fancy machinery such as a shredder or injection machine. If you have access to a long clamp I recommend following the steps at the bottom to make a better beam.
User Location: Indialantic-Melbourne Beach, United States of America (the)
## Steps
### Step 1: Making bags into denser plastic for melting.
In this guide, we will outline the process to prepare plastic bags.
Materials Required:
- Textile iron or panini press
- Wax paper
- HDPE plastic bags
- A gas mask for protection
In this step, I will walk you through the steps to prepare your plastic bags.
Materials Needed:
• Textile Iron or panini press
• Wax Paper
• HDPE Plastic Bags
• Preferably a carbon activator gas mask.
Steps:
1. Fold a single bag in half lengthwise.
Step 1: Take a single bag and fold it in half long ways.
2. Roll the bag tightly so it remains thin, as it will shrink considerably.
Step 2: Role the bag as best you can so it’s thin enough to fit into the beam later on.
Note: The bag will shrink considerably, so don’t spend too much time folding it.
3. Place wax paper beneath and above the folded bag.
Step 3: Put wax paper under and above the folded bag.
4. Pass the iron over it 2-3 times with minimal pressure for less than 10 seconds per side. If using a panini press, simply press it.
Step 4: Do 2-3 quick passes with the iron while applying minimal pressure. This should be less than 10 seconds for each side. If you uses a panini press just press down.
5. Flip the bag and repeat.
Step 5: Flip and repeat
6. Allow the semi-firm bag to cool under a heavy object to prevent curling, easing insertion into the mold later.
Step 6: Let your semi-firm plastic bag cool under a heavy object so it’s unable to curl up, this will make it easier to push into the mold later.
Note: A standard-size bag will occupy approximately 0.4 inches (1 cm) in a 1-inch by 1-inch (2.54 cm by 2.54 cm) beam. Ensure sufficient bags are processed before proceeding.
Note: A single standard-size bag fills about 0.4 inches in a 1-inch by 1-inch beam so ensure you have a considerable amount of bags processed before the next step.
### Step 2: Creating your mold/beam.
Your beam/mold requires a quick-release mechanism for easy removal before the plastic cools and obstructs access to the bottom. This guide outlines the necessary steps.
Your beam/mold will need a quick-release mechanism so you can remove it before your plastic cools overtop preventing access to the bottom. In this step, I will show the steps needed to accomplish this.
### Materials Needed
- Metal grinder
- Hot rolled steel beam
- Small metal scrap for use as a slider and mold bottom
- Eye protection
Materials needed.
• Metal grinder
• Preferably a hot rolled steel beam.
• A small metal scrape to be used as a slider and bottom of your mold.
• Eye protection
Steps:
### Steps
Step 1: Measure 1/16th of an inch on one side of the beam and draw a marking for your cut. If your beam is aluminum or extremely thin you may want to consider increasing this distance but beware further in you go harder it will be to remove your plastic beam.
**Step 1:** Measure and mark 1/16 inch (or 1.6 mm) from one side of the beam for cutting. If the beam is aluminum or very thin, consider increasing this distance, but note that deeper cuts make plastic removal more difficult.
Step 2: Flip the beam around and repeat step 1.
**Step 2:** Repeat the marking process on the opposite side of the beam.
Step 3: Use the metal grinder to cut the slots on both sides so that the scrap metal can slide through. Ensure your cuts align with each other, if not your slider may not fit.
**Step 3:** Utilize the metal grinder to make slots on both sides, ensuring they align for the metal scrap to slide through. Misaligned cuts may prevent proper fitting.
**Step 4:** Select and cut a scrap metal piece to fit tightly with minimal gaps.
Step 4: Choose a scrap metal piece that can be cut to size and fit accordingly to leave a limited number of gaps and provide a tight fit.
![IMG_8278-18bc4c7716c.jpg](./IMG_8278-18bc4c7716c.jpg)
@ -73,134 +68,84 @@ Your beam/mold requires a quick-release mechanism for easy removal before the pl
### Step 3: Melting plastic into a Beam using a clamp. Part 1
### Beam Formation Method
This method is considerably easier than the manual method and will give you a much denser beam. I highly suggest this method if you have a 5+ foot clamp.
#### Materials Required:
- Outdoor fire pit or an equivalent heat source capable of maintaining temperatures above 482°F (250°C)
- Carbon activator gas mask
- Mold: Hot-rolled steel tube is recommended, available at hardware stores for approximately $25
- Heat-resistant gloves
- Pushing stick: Use solid wood or metal matching the beam's inner dimensions
- Fire-making materials, such as kindling
- Pliers
- Metal clamp, approximately 5 feet
This method is more efficient than manual techniques and produces a denser beam. A 5-foot clamp is beneficial for this process.
Materials Needed:
• Outdoor fire pit or an alternate heat source that can reach constant temperatures above 250 Celsius.
• Carbon activator gas mask
• Mold – Out of my three mold attempts the hot rolled steel tube worked the best. Local hardware stores carry these for about 25 USD.
• Heat resistance gloves
• Pushing stick – Some sort of solid wood or metal with the same inner dimensions as your beam.
• Fire-making materials, lighter wood, etc.
• Pliers
• +-5 foot metal clamp
### Step 4: Melting plastic into a Beam using a clamp. Part 2
### Steps
Steps
Step 1: Insert metal peace at the bottom of the mold and ensure it's secure but removable with pliers. This is your quick-release mechanism to open the bottom up for removal later.
**Step 1:** Insert a metal piece at the bottom of the mold. Ensure it is secure yet removable with pliers, serving as a quick-release mechanism for later removal.
Step 2: Load a few plastic bags into the mold and compress them with the push stick before starting a fire, I recommend adding more bags using the clamp technique than the manual technique because of the difficulty of adding bags later.
**Step 2:** Load a few plastic bags into the mold and compress them with a push stick before igniting a fire. It is advisable to use a clamp technique for adding more bags due to the difficulty of doing so manually later.
**Step 3:** Build a consistently burning fire. Keep wood nearby to maintain the fire for at least 30 minutes if needed.
Step 3: Create a fire that can consistently burn; have wood near to stock the fire for at least 30 minutes if problems arise.
### Step 5: Melting plastic into a Beam using a clamp. Part 3
Step 4: Position the beam over the fire and allow it to heat.
Step 4: Hold the beam over the fire without the push stick in and wait for it to heat up.
Step 5: Once sufficiently heated, insert and secure the push stick in the clamp.
Step 5: After you have given the plastic enough time to heat up push in the push stick and secure it in the clamp.
Step 6: Tighten the clamp to compress the beam, repeating as necessary to solidify it.
Step 6: Tighten the clamp to compress the beam. This process will have to be repeated multiple times to make your beam solid.
Note: Depending on your clamp type, you may need to adjust it by sliding the stationary side closer for additional compression length.
Note: You may have reset your clamp depending on the type your using todo so slide the stationary side closer to give more compression length.
Note: If desired, add more plastic bags after the initial compression to achieve the preferred length, though it is advisable not to exceed 10 inches (25 cm) for ease of removal.
Note: If needed your able to add more plastic bags after the first compression and continue doing so to get your desired length. I don't recommend any length over 10 inches because it will get increasing more difficult to remove.
### Step 6: Removing the beam with the clamp technique
### Beam Removal Process
With this method, you should be able to remove the beam directly after formation and before it cools, either with force or by using the clamp without the stopper at the bottom.
1. **Remove Stopper:** Use pliers to extract the stopper from the bottom.
Step 1: Remove the stopper from the bottom with a pair of pliers.
2. **Attempt Beam Removal:** Press the push stick in, applying steady pressure. If successful, the process is complete. If not, proceed to the next step.
Step 2: Try and remove the beam by pressing the push stick in while applying consistent force.
Note: If this works congratulations you are done! If not, no worries continue reading.
3. **Reinsert Beam:** Place the beam back into the rig, ensuring the stopper is not in place.
Step 3: Put your beam back into the rig just like before but without the stopper at the bottom.
4. **Tighten Clamp:** While the material remains pliable, tighten the clamp. Once movement is detected, remove the mold from the beam and complete with the push stick.
Step 4: Tighten your clamp in while the plastic is still hot, once it starts to move you can take the mold out of the beam and finish the process with the push stick.
### Step 7: Melting the prepared plastic into a beam. Part 1
## Beam Creation Tutorial
Now that you have built your mold and prepared your plastic bags we can start melting your bags into beams! The manual method will have much more air pockets than using the newly invented clamping technique, so if you have access to a 5+ foot metal clamp I encourage you to try the process above.
### Introduction
Begin by constructing your mold and preparing the plastic bags. Once ready, proceed with melting the bags into beams. Be aware that manual methods may result in more air pockets compared to the use of metal clamps. If possible, utilize a metal clamp longer than 5 feet (1.5 meters) for improved results.
### Materials Required
- Outdoor fire pit or an alternative heat source capable of maintaining temperatures above 482°F (250°C).
- Carbon activator gas mask.
- Mold: A hot rolled steel tube is recommended; available at hardware stores for approximately $25.
- Heat-resistant gloves.
- Pushing stick: Made of solid wood or metal, matching the inner dimensions of your beam.
- Materials for fire-starting, such as lighter wood.
- Pliers.
Materials Needed:
• Outdoor fire pit or an alternate heat source that can reach constant temperatures above 250 Celsius.
• Carbon activator gas mask
• Mold – Out of my three mold attempts the hot rolled steel tube worked the best. Local hardware stores carry these for about 25 USD.
• Heat resistance gloves
• Pushing stick – Some sort of solid wood or metal with the same inner dimensions as your beam.
• Fire-making materials, lighter wood, etc.
• Pliers
### Step 8: Melting the prepared plastic into a beam. Part 2
Step 1: Place the metal piece at the bottom of the mold, securing it for later removal with pliers as a quick-release mechanism.
Step 1: Insert metal piece at the bottom of the mold and ensure it's secure, but removable with pliers. This is your quick-release mechanism to open the bottom for removal later.
Step 2: Insert several plastic bags into the mold and compress them with a push stick before igniting a fire. Ensure the mold is not entirely filled, using no more than eight bags at a time. Compress manually to achieve a solid final product.
Step 2: Load a few plastic bags into the mold and compress with the push stick before starting a fire.
Note: Be careful not to fill the entire mold up, or more than eight bags at once. You will need to hand compress these as best you can to ensure your final product is solid.
Step 3: Maintain a consistent fire, keeping wood nearby to sustain it for at least 30 minutes.
Step 3: Create a fire that can consistently burn; have wood near to stock the fire for at least 30 minutes in case problems arise.
### Step 9: Melting the prepared plastic into a beam. Part 3
### Step 4
Hold the mold over the fire, rotating it. Prepare the push stick to compress in a few moments. If the fire is well-built, the material will become malleable in about 30 seconds.
Step 4: Hold mold over the fire and rotate, have your push stick ready to compress in a few moments. If the fire is well built it will only take about 30 seconds to become a malleable substance.
### Step 5
Use the push stick to compress the material. Apply maximum pressure; the more force exerted, the denser the product will be.
Step 5: Compress the plastic using the push stick. Be sure to apply as much pressure as possible; the more force you can exert the better; this will determine the density of your product.
### Step 6
Gradually add extra strips of material while compressing it with the push stick between additions until you reach the desired length. Add approximately 1 inch (2.54 cm) extra to account for thermal expansion and removal.
Step 6: Slowly add extra plastic strips while compressing the beam using the push stick between each one until you’re satisfied with the length.
Note: I recommend adding about an inch extra to compensate for thermal expansion and the removal process.
### Step 7
Once the beam is properly compressed, use pliers to remove the bottom slider acting as a stop. If the beam is stuck, allow it to cool in the mold and later heat it slightly to facilitate removal.
Step 7: Once the beam is properly compressed use pliers to remove the slider acting as a stop at the bottom and attempt to remove it with the push stick. If the beam is stuck I suggest letting it cool in the mold and later heating the beam up just enough to loosen it.
## Resources
### Tools
- Metal grinder
- Textile iron or panini press
- 5-foot metal clamp
- Pliers
- Push stick (solid wood/metal)
### Hardware
- Hot-rolled steel tube (mold)
- Metal scrap (slider/mold bottom)
- Outdoor fire pit (482°F+ capable)
- Fire-making materials (kindling)
- Wax paper
### Protective Gear
- Carbon activator gas mask
- Heat-resistant gloves
- Eye protection
## References
## References
### Articles
-
### Books
-
### Papers
-
### YouTube
-
### Opensource Designs
-
## References

26
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@ -1,86 +1,45 @@
---
title: Creation of HDEP sheet with just one plate
slug: creation-of-hdep-sheet-with-just-one-plate
description: ### HDPE Sheet Production Guide
Producing an HDPE sheet may become complex over time as unexpected issues arise during plastic handling. However, creativity and problem-solving can lead to successful project outcomes, even in academic settings.
description: Making a hdep sheet can become more complicated as the project progresses, due to the unforeseen events that can occur when handling the plastic in one way or another, but ingenuity helps to find solutions to these dilemmas, reaching a good level of development, even if it is a university project.
tags: ["product","hack","HDPE","melting"]
category: Products
difficulty: Medium
time: < 1 week
keywords: HDPE sheet production, HDPE sheet tutorial, HDPE sheet melting, home plastic processing, plastic sheet transformation, DIY plastic sheets, HDPE melting temperature, plastic handling tips, uniform plastic sheet, HDPE sheet equipment.
keywords:
location:
---
# Creation of HDEP sheet with just one plate
![Creation of HDEP sheet with just one plate](laminaa-187b9d95037.jpg)
### HDPE Sheet Production Guide
Producing an HDPE sheet may become complex over time as unexpected issues arise during plastic handling. However, creativity and problem-solving can lead to successful project outcomes, even in academic settings.
Making a hdep sheet can become more complicated as the project progresses, due to the unforeseen events that can occur when handling the plastic in one way or another, but ingenuity helps to find solutions to these dilemmas, reaching a good level of development, even if it is a university project.
## Steps
### Step 1: Collecting the plastic
Acquiring supplies is straightforward as this material is commonly found in various containers, lids, and toys.
Gathering supplies is easy as we are surrounded by this material. All kinds of containers, lids, toys, etc... are made of hdep.
![recolectar-187b9de8e90.jpg](./recolectar-187b9de8e90.jpg)
### Step 2: Cut the plastic into smaller pieces.
To melt plastic effectively, first cut it into small pieces. For home processing, use a blender. If this causes pieces to fly out, scissors and manual force can also work.
To be able to melt the plastic it is advisable to first convert it into small pieces of plastic, for this if it is done at home you can use a blender, but if the pieces fly into the blender beaker, you can achieve a good result with a scissors and a lot of force.
![Procesar-187b9df96a9.jpg](./Procesar-187b9df96a9.jpg)
### Step 3: Melt the plastic
To melt HDPE, maintain a temperature above 275 degrees Fahrenheit (135 degrees Celsius). This can be achieved using a hot plate, hair iron, or clothes iron if a heat gun or more advanced equipment is unavailable.
To melt the hdpe you need a temperature higher than 135 degrees Celsius, which is possible to achieve with a hot plate, hair iron, or clothes iron if you don't have a heat gun or something more sophisticated.
![calentar-187b9e137c6.jpg](./calentar-187b9e137c6.jpg)
### Step 4: Outcome
In this tutorial, we will create a uniform plastic sheet to illustrate a basic approach to industrial plastic transformation from home.
In this way, we will obtain a little homogeneous sheet but which serves to demonstrate and exemplify what an industrial process of plastic transformation can be like, making a simple approach from home.
![Final-187b9e409d4.jpg](./Final-187b9e409d4.jpg)
## Resources
To address the tools, software, and hardware required for HDPE sheet production based on the provided tutorial, here’s a concise breakdown:
###
### Tools
- Blender (for shredding plastic into small pieces)
- Scissors (manual cutting alternative if blending is ineffective)
### Hardware
- Hot plate (melting device for maintaining temperatures above 275°F/135°C)
- Hair iron (alternative for heating/pressing HDPE)
- Clothes iron (substitute for heat application and sheet formation)
- Heat gun (advanced heating tool mentioned as optional)
### Software
- No software required (process relies solely on physical tools and equipment)
The tutorial emphasizes repurposing common household items for small-scale production, prioritizing accessibility.
## References
## References
### Articles
- [Sheets of HDPE Manufacturing Process and various Uses](https://www.singhalglobal.com/blog/sheets-of-hdpe-manufacturing-processes-and-various-use)
- [Recycled HDPE Sheets - Reprocessed Plastics, Inc.](https://gipo-rpi.com/hdpe-sheets/)
- [How Are HDPE Sheets Made?](https://www.ningeplastics.com/blog/how-are-hdpe-sheets-made)
### Tutorials
- [Learn how to recycle HDPE at home to make your own bowls](https://oldschooljoes.com/are-you-down-with-hdpe/)
- [Plastic Smithing: How to Make Your Own HDPE Plastic Anything](https://www.instructables.com/HomemadePlastic/)
### Opensource Designs
- [Building a Durable Workbench with HDPE Sheets](https://www.ningeplastics.com/blog/building-a-durable-workbench-with-hdpe-sheets-a-step-by-step-guide-for-diy-enthusiasts)
## References

16
howtos/creation-of-hdep-sheet-with-just-one-plate/config.json
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"description": "Making a hdep sheet can become more complicated as the project progresses, due to the unforeseen events that can occur when handling the plastic in one way or another, but ingenuity helps to find solutions to these dilemmas, reaching a good level of development, even if it is a university project. ",
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"text": "Gathering supplies is easy as we are surrounded by this material. All kinds of containers, lids, toys, etc... are made of hdep. ",
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"text": "To melt plastic effectively, first cut it into small pieces. For home processing, use a blender. If this causes pieces to fly out, scissors and manual force can also work."
"text": "To be able to melt the plastic it is advisable to first convert it into small pieces of plastic, for this if it is done at home you can use a blender, but if the pieces fly into the blender beaker, you can achieve a good result with a scissors and a lot of force."
},
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"_animationKey": "unique3",
"text": "To melt HDPE, maintain a temperature above 275 degrees Fahrenheit (135 degrees Celsius). This can be achieved using a hot plate, hair iron, or clothes iron if a heat gun or more advanced equipment is unavailable.",
"text": "To melt the hdpe you need a temperature higher than 135 degrees Celsius, which is possible to achieve with a hot plate, hair iron, or clothes iron if you don't have a heat gun or something more sophisticated.",
"title": "Melt the plastic ",
"images": [
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@ -110,7 +110,7 @@
]
},
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"text": "In this tutorial, we will create a uniform plastic sheet to illustrate a basic approach to industrial plastic transformation from home.",
"text": "In this way, we will obtain a little homogeneous sheet but which serves to demonstrate and exemplify what an industrial process of plastic transformation can be like, making a simple approach from home. ",
"_animationKey": "unique29mc9k",
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"time": "< 1 week",
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"content": "### HDPE Sheet Production Guide\n\nProducing an HDPE sheet may become complex over time as unexpected issues arise during plastic handling. However, creativity and problem-solving can lead to successful project outcomes, even in academic settings.\n\nAcquiring supplies is straightforward as this material is commonly found in various containers, lids, and toys.\n\nTo melt plastic effectively, first cut it into small pieces. For home processing, use a blender. If this causes pieces to fly out, scissors and manual force can also work.\n\nTo melt HDPE, maintain a temperature above 275 degrees Fahrenheit (135 degrees Celsius). This can be achieved using a hot plate, hair iron, or clothes iron if a heat gun or more advanced equipment is unavailable.\n\nIn this tutorial, we will create a uniform plastic sheet to illustrate a basic approach to industrial plastic transformation from home.",
"keywords": "HDPE sheet production, HDPE sheet tutorial, HDPE sheet melting, home plastic processing, plastic sheet transformation, DIY plastic sheets, HDPE melting temperature, plastic handling tips, uniform plastic sheet, HDPE sheet equipment.",
"resources": "To address the tools, software, and hardware required for HDPE sheet production based on the provided tutorial, here’s a concise breakdown:\n\n###\n\n### Tools\n\n- Blender (for shredding plastic into small pieces)\n- Scissors (manual cutting alternative if blending is ineffective)\n\n### Hardware\n\n- Hot plate (melting device for maintaining temperatures above 275°F/135°C)\n- Hair iron (alternative for heating/pressing HDPE)\n- Clothes iron (substitute for heat application and sheet formation)\n- Heat gun (advanced heating tool mentioned as optional)\n\n### Software\n\n- No software required (process relies solely on physical tools and equipment)\n\nThe tutorial emphasizes repurposing common household items for small-scale production, prioritizing accessibility.",
"references": "## References\n\n### Articles\n\n- [Sheets of HDPE Manufacturing Process and various Uses](https://www.singhalglobal.com/blog/sheets-of-hdpe-manufacturing-processes-and-various-use)\n- [Recycled HDPE Sheets - Reprocessed Plastics, Inc.](https://gipo-rpi.com/hdpe-sheets/)\n- [How Are HDPE Sheets Made?](https://www.ningeplastics.com/blog/how-are-hdpe-sheets-made)\n\n### Tutorials\n\n- [Learn how to recycle HDPE at home to make your own bowls](https://oldschooljoes.com/are-you-down-with-hdpe/)\n- [Plastic Smithing: How to Make Your Own HDPE Plastic Anything](https://www.instructables.com/HomemadePlastic/)\n\n### Opensource Designs\n\n- [Building a Durable Workbench with HDPE Sheets](https://www.ningeplastics.com/blog/building-a-durable-workbench-with-hdpe-sheets-a-step-by-step-guide-for-diy-enthusiasts)",
"brief": "Learn how to produce HDPE sheets at home using simple tools and techniques. Discover the process of transforming everyday plastic into uniform sheets."
"content": "Making a hdep sheet can become more complicated as the project progresses, due to the unforeseen events that can occur when handling the plastic in one way or another, but ingenuity helps to find solutions to these dilemmas, reaching a good level of development, even if it is a university project. \n\nGathering supplies is easy as we are surrounded by this material. All kinds of containers, lids, toys, etc... are made of hdep. \n\nTo be able to melt the plastic it is advisable to first convert it into small pieces of plastic, for this if it is done at home you can use a blender, but if the pieces fly into the blender beaker, you can achieve a good result with a scissors and a lot of force.\n\nTo melt the hdpe you need a temperature higher than 135 degrees Celsius, which is possible to achieve with a hot plate, hair iron, or clothes iron if you don't have a heat gun or something more sophisticated.\n\nIn this way, we will obtain a little homogeneous sheet but which serves to demonstrate and exemplify what an industrial process of plastic transformation can be like, making a simple approach from home. "
}

46
howtos/cut-out-shapes-out-of-plastic-sheets-with-a-cnc-/README.md
View File

@ -1,23 +1,32 @@
---
title: Cut out shapes out of plastic sheets with a CNC
slug: cut-out-shapes-out-of-plastic-sheets-with-a-cnc-
description: This tutorial explains the process of cutting HDPE sheets using an X-Carve CNC. You can watch the full video in Spanish with subtitles ~~[here](<a class="text-orange-600 underline" href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4LrrFz802To)~~." target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">youtube.com: youtube.com/watch?v=4LrrFz802To).</a>
description: In this how to, I will show you our process to cut HDPE Sheets using a X-Carve CNC.
Here is the full video in spanish with subtitles https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4LrrFz802To
tags: ["HDPE"]
category: uncategorized
difficulty: Medium
time: < 5 hours
keywords: HDPE sheet cutting, X-Carve CNC, Easel CAM Software, CNC milling tutorial, HDPE 2-Colors, CNC clamps, Inkscape design software, vector file creation, CNC Router setup, CNC machine projects
keywords:
location: Mexico City, Mexico
---
# Cut out shapes out of plastic sheets with a CNC
![Cut out shapes out of plastic sheets with a CNC ](IMG_20200605_142311.jpg)
This tutorial explains the process of cutting HDPE sheets using an X-Carve CNC. You can watch the full video in Spanish with subtitles ~~[here](<a class="text-orange-600 underline" href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4LrrFz802To)~~." target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">youtube.com: youtube.com/watch?v=4LrrFz802To).</a>
In this how to, I will show you our process to cut HDPE Sheets using a X-Carve CNC.
Here is the full video in spanish with subtitles https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4LrrFz802To
User Location: Mexico City, Mexico
## Steps
### Step 1: Measure the plastic sheet
To measure the plastic sheet, determine its height, width, and thickness. The X-Carve machine uses the EASEL CAM Software, which is user-friendly for CNC milling. EASEL allows simulation of the material and includes HDPE 2-Colors in its material options.
For this step we need to measure our plastic sheet: Height, Width and Thickness. Our X-Carve machine works with the CAM Software EASEL, for me, the easiest software for CNC milling out there.
The cool thing about Easel (<a class="text-orange-600 underline" href="https://easel.inventables.com/)" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">easel.inventables.com: easel.inventables.com/)</a> is that you can "simulate" your actual material and THEY EVEN HAVE HDPE 2-Colors in their cutting material lists!!
![1.jpg](./1.jpg)
@ -27,16 +36,17 @@ To measure the plastic sheet, determine its height, width, and thickness. The X-
### Step 2: Secure sheet
Use CNC clamps to secure the sheet to the table.
Using the CNC clamps from the X-Carve, secure the sheet to the table,
![3.jpg](./3.jpg)
### Step 3: Choosing a file to cut
Now proceed to your design software, such as Inkscape, to create a vector file, or download one from thenounproject.com.
Now we go to our illustrator, such as Inkscape to design a vector file or download and open source one frome <a class="text-orange-600 underline" href="https://thenounproject.com/." target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">thenounproject.com: thenounproject.com</a>
We download the SVG file, which is an open source vector format and import it to Easel.
Download the SVG file and import it into Easel.
![4.jpg](./4.jpg)
@ -46,14 +56,13 @@ Download the SVG file and import it into Easel.
### Step 4: Follow the cutting Wizzard
Proceed by selecting your desired carving or cutting width and initiate the cutting [filtered]:
Now with the file we can choose the width we want to carve/cut and then we go to cut and start the wizzard:
- We check that the sheet is fixed.
- We also specify the cutting bit, we are using a 1/8 flat flute bit.
- We tell the machine where the coordinate 0-0 is, which we always choose as the down left corner.
- We raise the bit, turn on the CNC Router!!!
- Ensure the sheet is securely fixed.
- Specify the cutting bit; for this, we use a 1/8 inch (3.175 mm) flat flute bit.
- Set the origin point at the bottom-left corner as coordinate 0-0.
- Elevate the bit and activate the CNC Router.
Then, the process begins!
AND PUM THE MAGIC BEGINS!!
![6.jpg](./6.jpg)
@ -66,14 +75,19 @@ Then, the process begins!
### Step 5: Post-production and show case
Take your glasses or object, complete any necessary finishing steps, and then share the results with friends and family.
You take now your glasses or object and postprocess them and of course show it to your friends, family and so on.
![9.jpg](./9.jpg)
### Step 6: Hack it and try it yourself
You can attempt this project using various types of CNC machines or manual routers and saws. Sharing your work encourages community growth and collaboration. Please contribute your ideas and comments.
You can try this project with other types of CNC machines, even manual Routers or manual saw, as I did on this video: <a class="text-orange-600 underline" href="https://youtu.be/gxkcffQD3eQ," target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">youtu.be: youtu.be/gxkcffQD3eQ,</a> but the important thing is that you share what you do and help this community to grow!!!
Share your ideas and comments!
![IMG_20200605_142311.jpg](./IMG_20200605_142311.jpg)

17
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"text": "For this step we need to measure our plastic sheet: Height, Width and Thickness. Our X-Carve machine works with the CAM Software EASEL, for me, the easiest software for CNC milling out there. \n\nThe cool thing about Easel (<a class=\"text-orange-600 underline\" href=\"https://easel.inventables.com/)\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">easel.inventables.com: easel.inventables.com/)</a> is that you can \"simulate\" your actual material and THEY EVEN HAVE HDPE 2-Colors in their cutting material lists!!\n\n\n",
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"text": "Now we go to our illustrator, such as Inkscape to design a vector file or download and open source one frome <a class=\"text-orange-600 underline\" href=\"https://thenounproject.com/.\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">thenounproject.com: thenounproject.com</a>\n\nWe download the SVG file, which is an open source vector format and import it to Easel. \n",
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"text": "Proceed by selecting your desired carving or cutting width and initiate the cutting [filtered]:\n\n- Ensure the sheet is securely fixed.\n- Specify the cutting bit; for this, we use a 1/8 inch (3.175 mm) flat flute bit.\n- Set the origin point at the bottom-left corner as coordinate 0-0.\n- Elevate the bit and activate the CNC Router.\n\nThen, the process begins!",
"text": "Now with the file we can choose the width we want to carve/cut and then we go to cut and start the wizzard:\n- We check that the sheet is fixed.\n- We also specify the cutting bit, we are using a 1/8 flat flute bit. \n- We tell the machine where the coordinate 0-0 is, which we always choose as the down left corner.\n- We raise the bit, turn on the CNC Router!!!\n\nAND PUM THE MAGIC BEGINS!!",
"title": "Follow the cutting Wizzard",
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{
@ -166,7 +166,7 @@
"_animationKey": "uniquenisc2v"
},
{
"text": "Take your glasses or object, complete any necessary finishing steps, and then share the results with friends and family.",
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"fullPath": "uploads/howtos/pbo0Pe44aTngvlD04kGf/9.jpg",
@ -187,7 +187,7 @@
{
"_animationKey": "uniquem4y0yi",
"title": "Hack it and try it yourself",
"text": "You can attempt this project using various types of CNC machines or manual routers and saws. Sharing your work encourages community growth and collaboration. Please contribute your ideas and comments.",
"text": "You can try this project with other types of CNC machines, even manual Routers or manual saw, as I did on this video: <a class=\"text-orange-600 underline\" href=\"https://youtu.be/gxkcffQD3eQ,\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">youtu.be: youtu.be/gxkcffQD3eQ,</a> but the important thing is that you share what you do and help this community to grow!!!\n\nShare your ideas and comments!",
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@ -337,6 +337,5 @@
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"label": "uncategorized"
},
"content": "This tutorial explains the process of cutting HDPE sheets using an X-Carve CNC. You can watch the full video in Spanish with subtitles ~~~~[here](<a class=\"text-orange-600 underline\" href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4LrrFz802To)~~~~.\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">youtube.com: youtube.com/watch?v=4LrrFz802To).</a>\n\n\nUser Location: Mexico City, Mexico\n\nTo measure the plastic sheet, determine its height, width, and thickness. The X-Carve machine uses the EASEL CAM Software, which is user-friendly for CNC milling. EASEL allows simulation of the material and includes HDPE 2-Colors in its material options.\n\nUse CNC clamps to secure the sheet to the table.\n\nNow proceed to your design software, such as Inkscape, to create a vector file, or download one from thenounproject.com.\n\nDownload the SVG file and import it into Easel.\n\nProceed by selecting your desired carving or cutting width and initiate the cutting [filtered]:\n\n- Ensure the sheet is securely fixed.\n- Specify the cutting bit; for this, we use a 1/8 inch (3.175 mm) flat flute bit.\n- Set the origin point at the bottom-left corner as coordinate 0-0.\n- Elevate the bit and activate the CNC Router.\n\nThen, the process begins!\n\nTake your glasses or object, complete any necessary finishing steps, and then share the results with friends and family.\n\nYou can attempt this project using various types of CNC machines or manual routers and saws. Sharing your work encourages community growth and collaboration. Please contribute your ideas and comments.",
"keywords": "HDPE sheet cutting, X-Carve CNC, Easel CAM Software, CNC milling tutorial, HDPE 2-Colors, CNC clamps, Inkscape design software, vector file creation, CNC Router setup, CNC machine projects"
"content": "In this how to, I will show you our process to cut HDPE Sheets using a X-Carve CNC.\n\nHere is the full video in spanish with subtitles https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4LrrFz802To \n\n\nUser Location: Mexico City, Mexico\n\nFor this step we need to measure our plastic sheet: Height, Width and Thickness. Our X-Carve machine works with the CAM Software EASEL, for me, the easiest software for CNC milling out there. \n\nThe cool thing about Easel (<a class=\"text-orange-600 underline\" href=\"https://easel.inventables.com/)\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">easel.inventables.com: easel.inventables.com/)</a> is that you can \"simulate\" your actual material and THEY EVEN HAVE HDPE 2-Colors in their cutting material lists!!\n\n\n\n\nUsing the CNC clamps from the X-Carve, secure the sheet to the table, \n\nNow we go to our illustrator, such as Inkscape to design a vector file or download and open source one frome <a class=\"text-orange-600 underline\" href=\"https://thenounproject.com/.\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">thenounproject.com: thenounproject.com</a>\n\nWe download the SVG file, which is an open source vector format and import it to Easel. \n\n\nNow with the file we can choose the width we want to carve/cut and then we go to cut and start the wizzard:\n- We check that the sheet is fixed.\n- We also specify the cutting bit, we are using a 1/8 flat flute bit. \n- We tell the machine where the coordinate 0-0 is, which we always choose as the down left corner.\n- We raise the bit, turn on the CNC Router!!!\n\nAND PUM THE MAGIC BEGINS!!\n\nYou take now your glasses or object and postprocess them and of course show it to your friends, family and so on.\n\n\n\n\nYou can try this project with other types of CNC machines, even manual Routers or manual saw, as I did on this video: <a class=\"text-orange-600 underline\" href=\"https://youtu.be/gxkcffQD3eQ,\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">youtu.be: youtu.be/gxkcffQD3eQ,</a> but the important thing is that you share what you do and help this community to grow!!!\n\nShare your ideas and comments!"
}

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@ -1,131 +1,123 @@
---
title: Design an injection mould
slug: design-an-injection-mould
description: # Design Guide for a Broom Hanger Mold
This guide outlines the steps to design a mold for an injection machine.
description: An experience review designing a broom hanger mold: These are some steps to design a mold for the injection machine.
tags: ["injection","mould"]
category: Guides
difficulty: Medium
time: < 1 week
keywords: broom hanger mold, injection mold design, injection machine, precise measurements, clamping system design, mold assembly, material measurements, standard measurements Colombia, CAD software mold design, mold parts list
keywords:
location: Bogota, Colombia
---
# Design an injection mould
![Design an injection mould](howto-broomhanger-mould-0.jpg)
# Design Guide for a Broom Hanger Mold
This guide outlines the steps to design a mold for an injection machine.
An experience review designing a broom hanger mold: These are some steps to design a mold for the injection machine.
User Location: Bogota, Colombia
## Steps
### Step 1: Measure existing dimensions
Ensure accuracy from the start. When designing a product to fit with an existing item, take precise measurements from it to establish a correct baseline. For this broom hanger, I measured broom and mop diameters, ranging from 0.83 to 0.94 inches (21-24 mm). I will use the smaller measurement of 0.83 inches (21 mm) as a reference for the clamping system design.
Be sure to get things accurate from the beginning! If your product is designed to fit with an existing object, take all of the measures from it, so that you start from the right point. For this broom hanger, I measured the diameters of different brooms and mops, ranging from 21-24mm. As the product will be a clamping system, I’ll use the smaller measurement of 21mm as a reference.
![howto-broomhanger-mould-1.jpg](./howto-broomhanger-mould-1.jpg)
### Step 2: Sketch out your product idea
### How to Develop a Design
It can be difficult to get an idea down on paper in the beginning, but it’s equally hard to formulate your design without a drawing. Let’s start with your imagination. Register on paper all the details that you can think of to create a good design.
Especially consider important aspects like the wall thickness. Influencing factors for this will include
A) The required injection pressure,
B) required flexibility of the product itself, and
C) resistance and durability of the material
Initiating a design begins with outlining your ideas on paper. Document all essential details to shape an effective design. Particular attention should be given to aspects such as wall thickness, which influences:
- Required injection pressure
- Product flexibility
- Material resistance and durability
To address these aspects, examine and compare materials from previously developed products.
For this purpose, I use previous products I’ve developed to examine and compare the material.
![howto-broomhanger-mould-2.jpg](./howto-broomhanger-mould-2.jpg)
### Step 3: “Mold” your idea
### Mold Design for Product Shape
What will define your product shape? As this broom hanger will be made with the injection machine, I have to think in an enclosed mold. With the product idea I’ve drawn before, I start designing the mold, looking for the best solution for each of these 6 Mold Design
The broom hanger will be created using an injection machine, necessitating an enclosed mold. With the previously sketched product concept, I proceed to design the mold, focusing on six key criteria:
Criteria:
1) Define the product shape,
2) Use standard measures,
3) Receive the plastic and connect the mold,
4) Open after injection and eject the product,
5) Adjust and closure, and
6) Simplify the machining process.
1. **Define the Product Shape:** Ensure the mold accurately reflects the intended design.
2. **Use Standard Measures:** Adhere to typical size specifications.
3. **Facilitate Plastic Intake and Mold Connection:** Ensure efficient material flow and secure connection.
4. **Allow for Opening and Ejection Post-Injection:** Design for easy removal of the finished product.
5. **Enable Adjustment and Closure:** Ensure precise alignment and secure closing mechanisms.
6. **Simplify the Machining Process:** Design for ease of manufacturing and operation.
I’ll explain each in the next steps.
Each criterion will be detailed in the subsequent steps.
![howto-broomhanger-mould-0.jpg](./howto-broomhanger-mould-0.jpg)
### Step 4: Define the product shape
Certainly, here is the revised text:
This is thinking on what shapes are going to create the cavity inside the mold. For this product, there are basically three pieces:
A cylinder (part 1) for the space of the broomstick,
concentric with a circular tube (part 2) which contains the outside of the hanger,
and a block (part 3) to cut the inner space and create the opening.
---
Consider the shapes that will form the cavity inside the mold. For this product, there are three components:
1. A cylinder (part 1) for the broomstick space.
2. A concentric circular tube (part 2) for the exterior of the hanger.
3. A block (part 3) to form the inner space and create an opening.
Next, select the standard bars or tubes to use.
With this, I’m starting to think in the standard bars and/or tubes I will use.
![howto-broomhanger-mould-4.jpg](./howto-broomhanger-mould-4.jpg)
### Step 5: Use standard measures
### Material Measurements for Makers
In my country (Colombia) the material dimensions mostly come in Inches (metal bar sections, steel planks thicknesses…), so are easier and cheaper to find. Adapting your measurements to the standard ones will avoid paying for excess material that you will then have to pay to remove.
So for the inner cylinder, I’ll use a ¾ inch rod (19,05mm), close enough to the 21mm of the broomstick. For the outer wall, I’ll use a 1 inch tube (25,4mm), so the thickness of the broom hanger will be approximately ⅛ inch (3.17mm).
Explore your local metal market and find which measures fit better for you!
In Colombia, materials such as metal bars and steel planks are commonly available in inches, which often makes them more accessible and cost-effective. Adapting to these standard measurements can help you avoid unnecessary expenses.
For the inner cylinder, consider using a ¾ inch (19.05 mm) rod, which closely matches the 21 mm broomstick size. For the outer wall, a 1 inch (25.4 mm) tube is recommended, resulting in an approximate broom hanger thickness of ⅛ inch (3.17 mm).
Investigate your local market to identify the most suitable measurements for your project.
![howto-broomhanger-mould-5.jpg](./howto-broomhanger-mould-5.jpg)
### Step 6: Plastic flow and mold connection
Consider the flow of plastic within the mold. The path should be as short as possible with sufficient space for complete distribution. Drill a ¼ inch (6.35 mm) hole for entry, with a maximum height of 0.39 inches (10 mm), positioned centrally to ensure even distribution. For the broom hanger, fill the mold from its center. To connect the mold to the injection machine, use half of a standard ½ inch (12.7 mm) pipe nipple, welded to a flange that attaches to the mold with closing screws.
Think about how the plastic will flow inside the mold. The path has to be as short as possible and with enough space for the plastic to flow throughout the entire mold.
For the entrance, I usually drill a ¼ inch hole with a maximum of 10mm height. The location should be in the center, so that the plastic can be distributed equally in each direction inside the mold. For the broom hanger, I chose to fill the mold from the center of its body.
To connect the mold to the injection machine, half of a standard ½ inch pipe nipple is used. Welded to a flange that can be attached to the mold (hopefully) with the closing screws.
![howto-broomhanger-mould-6.jpg](./howto-broomhanger-mould-6.jpg)
### Step 7: Open after injection and expluse the product
As the plastic solidifies into the product, ensure the mold can be opened to release it. The mold should split into several parts for this purpose. However, fewer parts result in a simpler, more stable, and cost-effective mold. For the broom hanger, which functions as a hook, consider using three pieces: two for the exterior, which split in half to release the product, and one for the interior that will hold the broomstick and be removed by pulling it out.
As the plastic solidifies into the product, you have to be able to open the mold and take it out. This means that the mold must split into several parts to release the product. But, a less number of parts means an easier to assemble, more steady and cheaper mold. So keep it simple! For the broom hanger, as the product works as a hook, I’m thinking of three pieces: two to form the exterior of the hanger, which splits in half to release the product; and another one to form the interior that will receive the broomstick, and will be released at the end pulling it out just as it will release the broom.
![howto-broomhanger-mould-7.jpg](./howto-broomhanger-mould-7.jpg)
### Step 8: Adjust and close
### Mold Assembly and Alignment
One thing is to align the mold parts accurately and the other is to ensure that it withstands injection pressure without opening or displacing. To adjust and align, I use male/female guides between the parts so they will fit in place and support the injection pressure. Conic dowels are ideal and are a great help during the mold assembly to hold everything in place. To close the mould and bear the injection pressure, I use through screws that hold the mold parts tightly. I drill the mold holes a bit wider than the screws (for ¼” screws, I drill a 5/16” hole) so the disassembly will be easier even if a mould part gets displaced during the injection process. It is also a great idea to open the screw hole side, so the screw can be taken out by the side, only by loosening the bolts a bit and avoiding to have to loosen them completely.
To ensure proper alignment and withstand injection pressure, employ male/female guides between mold parts for a secure fit. Conic dowels are effective in maintaining alignment during assembly. For closure and pressure resistance, use through screws to tightly secure mold parts. Drill mold holes slightly larger than the screws (for 1/4-inch screws, drill 5/16-inch holes) to facilitate easier disassembly if parts shift during injection. Additionally, consider opening the screw hole side to allow screw removal by slightly loosening the bolts, avoiding the need for full removal.
![howto-broomhanger-mould-8.jpg](./howto-broomhanger-mould-8.jpg)
### Step 9: Simplify the machining process
Design your products using basic shapes such as cubes, cylinders, cones, and straight lines. These shapes are straightforward to create with manual lathes and mills. Utilizing concentric, aligned, and perpendicular figures enhances the machining process. Simplicity in design leads to simplicity in execution. Use standard measurements; for example, holes matching a drill bit's size and grooves matching a milling cutter's width allow for faster, more precise work. For instance, a broom hanger can be designed as a straight plastic tube with an opening on one side, involving straightforward line milling and circular hole creation for the mold parts.
Design your products with basic shapes. Cubes, Cylinders, Cones and Straight Lines are shapes easy to create with manual lattes and mills. Concentric, aligned and perpendicular figures improve the machining process. Minimalism in the design results in minimalism in the process. Also, design with standard measures. Holes of the size of a drilling bit, canals of the width of a milling cutter can be done faster and with more precision. So the broom hanger product is going to be basically a straight plastic tube with an opening on one side. This means straight lines milling and circular holes to create all the mold parts.
![howto-broomhanger-mould-9..jpg](./howto-broomhanger-mould-9..jpg)
### Step 10: Use the PC tools
We aim for greater precision than paper allows, so we utilize CAD software to model mold dimensions accurately. Continuing from the previous step, CAD enables us to create and refine mold versions based on the six design criteria.
We’re looking for more accuracy than we can create on paper, so to get the real dimensions of the cuts and machining, now we can model our mold using CAD software. At this point we are continuing on our process from the previous step, just with a different tool. Using CAD we can model different versions of the mold and shape new or improved versions, stemming from the 6 Mold Design Criteria.
Here some of the decisions I made during the process and mold design:
- The best location for the injection point is in the middle of the body of the product.
- To avoid the risk of pressure opening the mold, the injection point is better in a solid part than at the joining of the mold.
- The flange with the nipple connector should be attached over a flat face of the mold with the same closing screws.
Here are some decisions made during the mold design process:
- The injection point should be centrally located on the product's body.
- To prevent pressure from opening the mold, the injection point should be on a solid section, not at the mold's seam.
- The flange with the nipple connector should be affixed to a flat mold face using the same closing screws.
![howto-broomhanger-mould-10-1.jpg](./howto-broomhanger-mould-10-1.jpg)
@ -135,68 +127,23 @@ Here are some decisions made during the mold design process:
### Step 11: Document it
The design process should culminate in detailed drawings and a comprehensive parts list. Consider the machining steps to identify critical procedures, such as machining parts together for precise fitting and determining fixation methods to the machine. Document all this information in the drawings.
The design should conclude in drawings and a part list. Think on the step by step of the machining to identify the critical procedures (for example, when parts should be machined together to get an accurate fitting; or, how they will be fixed to the machine) and register all that information in the drawings.
Do the part list for all the raw materials to work as a shopping list. Include dimension and quantity. (Remember to buy the raw parts a bit longer than the final parts. Between 5 and 10mm will be enough to fix the parts in the machines and adjust to the final measure).
Create a parts list for all raw materials as a shopping guide. Include dimensions and quantities. Purchase raw parts slightly longer (0.2 to 0.4 inches) than final dimensions to accommodate machine fixation and final adjustments.
![howto-broomhanger-mould-11.jpg](./howto-broomhanger-mould-11.jpg)
### Step 12: Turn it into reality
With your mold design ready, proceed to construct it and create your product. Follow the instructions in the "Make a Broom Hanger" guide, or use these tips to develop an original idea.
Now that you have the design for your mold it's time to actually build it and make your product.
You can find the building process of this broom hanger in this How-to "Make a broom hanger" ( or use these tips to come up with your own idea :)
![howto-broom-hanger-cover.jpg](./howto-broom-hanger-cover.jpg)
## Resources
### Tools
- Manual lathe (e.g., [Grizzly Industrial](https://www.grizzly.com/))
- Milling machine (e.g., [Jet Tools](https://www.jettools.com/))
- Drill press (e.g., [DEWALT](https://www.dewalt.com/))
- Welding equipment (e.g., [Lincoln Electric](https://www.lincolnelectric.com/))
- Standard drill bits/milling cutters (e.g., [Grainger](https://www.grainger.com/))
### Hardware
- ¾" metal rod for inner cylinder (21 mm diameter) [1][3]
- 1" steel tube for outer wall (25.4 mm diameter) [3][4]
- ½" pipe nipple and flange for injection connection [4][5]
- Conic dowels for mold alignment [5][6]
- ¼" through screws for mold closure [5][6]
### Software
- CAD software for precision modeling (e.g., [Autodesk Fusion 360](https://www.autodesk.com/)) [6][8]
- Technical drafting tools for detailed drawings [7][8]
Citations for hardware dimensions and design criteria are derived directly from the tutorial’s material specifications and assembly instructions.
## References
## References
### Articles
- [Injection Molding: The Manufacturing & Design Guide](https://www.hubs.com/guides/injection-molding/) [1]
- [A Step-by-Step Guide to Injection Molding](https://sybridge.com/injection-molding-guide/) [3]
- [DIY Injection Molding: How to Mold Plastic Parts In-House](https://formlabs.com/blog/diy-injection-molding/) [6]
- [Injection Moulding - Wikipedia](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Injection_moulding) [8]
### Books
- [Books by Beaumont Technologies](https://www.beaumontinc.com/about/books-by-beaumont/) [4]
### Papers
- [Injection Molding of Polymers and Polymer Composites - PMC](https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC11244112/) [5]
### YouTube
- [Injection Molding: Mold Design & Making](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MhoAIDz4Bhw) [7]
- [Beginner to Advanced: How to Create a Mold (Part 1)](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_hgmwhde1So) [14]
### Open-Source Designs
- ~~[Gravity Broom Holder by LoboCNC](https://www.printables.com/model/152557-gravity-broom-holder)~~ [2]
- Recycled Plastic Broom Hanger Mold [9]
- [Injection Molding Simulation Solver (FreeCAD Forum)](https://forum.freecad.org/viewtopic.php?t=56446) [12]
## References

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---
title: Design moulds for sunglasses
slug: design-moulds-for-sunglasses
description: For the past five years, Esfèrica has focused on maintaining the value of waste plastics. Our project, FOS Barcelona, produces eyewear from local waste and provides molds for others to produce them locally, promoting distributed design.
description: At Esfèrica we’ve been working to understand how to uphold the value of waste plastics for the past 5 years. Today, our project FOS Barcelona offers eyewear made with local waste and moulds for others to fabricate them in their area, in an effort to enhance distributed design.
This guide shares insights from our experience.
Here we’ll guide you through aspects we learned on our way.
1: Requirements
2-5: Sunglasses Design
6-10: Mold Design
1: What you need
2-5: Design sunglasses
6-10: Design mould
tags: ["mould","injection","product"]
category: uncategorized
difficulty: Hard
time: 3-4 weeks
keywords: Esfèrica, FOS Barcelona, eyewear design, waste plastics, distributed design, CNC milling machine, mold design, injection machine, local production, sustainable eyewear
keywords:
location: Barcelona, Spain
---
# Design moulds for sunglasses
![Design moulds for sunglasses](_IGP9762.jpg)
For the past five years, Esfèrica has focused on maintaining the value of waste plastics. Our project, FOS Barcelona, produces eyewear from local waste and provides molds for others to produce them locally, promoting distributed design.
At Esfèrica we’ve been working to understand how to uphold the value of waste plastics for the past 5 years. Today, our project FOS Barcelona offers eyewear made with local waste and moulds for others to fabricate them in their area, in an effort to enhance distributed design.
This guide shares insights from our experience.
Here we’ll guide you through aspects we learned on our way.
1: Requirements
2-5: Sunglasses Design
6-10: Mold Design
1: What you need
2-5: Design sunglasses
6-10: Design mould
User Location: Barcelona, Spain
## Steps
### Step 1: What you need
To complete the process independently, you will need:
1. A defined model concept.
2. A computer with CAD software experience.
3. Access to a quality CNC milling machine or a manufacturing partner.
To make all the process yourself, you will need:
1. A clear mind about the model you want to create.
2. A computer and some experience working with CAD software.
3. A good CNC milling machine or a manufacturing partner.
4. An injection machine.
Let's proceed with the steps.
Ok. Let’s dive into the steps then.
![00.jpg](./00.jpg)
### Step 2: DESIGN THE SUNGLASSES
When designing eyewear, you can either choose bold designs aimed at a niche audience or opt for classic styles for broader appeal. Your decision depends on your goals. Once your target is set, you will need to make decisions about various components, as outlined in the following steps.
When designing eyewear you can go wild, and reach few, or start with the classics, and reach many. It only depends on your intentions to choose one way or another.
Once you have a target chosen, you will need to make decisions regarding a couple of components, which we’ll go through in the next steps.
![1.png](./1.png)
### Step 3: Sunglasses model - Hinges
Metal hinges: Common options include riveted (fixed with rivets), in-mold (placed before injection), screwed-in (attached post-injection with screws), and fused (secured post-injection with heat). Screw-in hinges are the easiest to detach after the product's lifespan.
Metal hinges: There are several metal hinges options in the market, being the most common riveted - fixed with rivets -, in mould - placed in the mould before every injection -, screwed in - inserted after the injection and fixed using screws -, and fused - inserted after injection using heat -.
Of all of them, the easiest to detach from the product once its lifespan is over, is the screw-in models and that is the reason we choose to use this one.
Plastic hinges: See next step
Plastic hinges: See next step.
![22.PNG](./22.PNG)
### Step 4: Sunglasses model - Hinges
Plastic hinges can be manufactured using molds. This method avoids material mixtures and can offer durability comparable to metal hinges if designed correctly. However, the perceived quality might be a concern when creating products for sale, as perceptions can vary globally and are not always aligned with actual quality.
Plastic hinges: Made in the mould. This is the most sustainable choice. No materials mixtures and durability that might go beyond eyewear with metal hinges, if designed properly. The downside is the quality perception, a key point when developing products that need to sell, and a parameter that many times has no connection to actual quality, but rather with the different perceptions around materials and products present in each corner of the world.
![3.PNG](./3.PNG)
### Step 5: Sunglasses model - Lenses
There is a wide variety of lenses available. Your choice depends on the intended use and type of eyewear. The main types are:
There is a wide variety of lenses in the market. Again, depending on your target and the type of eyewear you want to make you will choose one type or another. The main ones are the following, although there are many others for specific applications:
Polycarbonate: Lenses for sports and action eyewear due to its resistance.
CR-39 (polymer): The most used type of lenses.
Mineral lenses: The glass lenses that are used less and less due to their weight and the fact that they break when falling. The main advantage is its scratch resistance.
- Polycarbonate: Suitable for sports and action eyewear due to durability.
- CR-39 (polymer): The most common type of lens.
- Mineral: Glass lenses, used less frequently due to weight and fragility, but offer high scratch resistance.
![4.png](./4.png)
### Step 6: Sunglasses Model - Base
Certainly.
Depending on the type of eyewear you will want the frame to have a bigger curvature to cover as much face as possible, or a completely flat frame, to follow the lastest of the fashion trends ;)
---
The Base value is what is used to define this curvature. The higher the base number, the smaller the diameter of the curvature of the frame will be. Base nine is used for sport eyewear, which offers a pretty tight fit to protect the eyes as much as possible, whereas a base 2 is used for fashion eyewear where the frame is almost flat.
Our Classic model used to be base 6. Our new models are base 4.
For eyewear design, the curvature of the frame is determined by the "Base" value. A higher base number results in a smaller curvature diameter. Base 9 is typical for sports eyewear, providing a snug fit to protect the eyes, while base 2 is used for fashion eyewear with a nearly flat appearance.
Previously, our Classic model featured a base of 6, whereas our new models utilize a base of 4.
![5.PNG](./5.PNG)
### Step 7: DESIGN THE MOULD
### Designing Molds for Eyewear
When designing moulds to make eyewear with [filtered] machinery you need to make a fine exercise of balancing costs and mould quality.
For a really good finished product with little post processing needed, high quality inscriptions and outstanding surface finishes, you will have to spend €€€.
For testing purposes you can mill the mould way faster and with simpler machines, saving quite a chunk.
It is vital to understand that it doesn’t make sense to make moulds that are as good as industrial moulds for the obvious reason that they will then be almost as expensive as industrial moulds!
We went for a high quality mould that will require a small amount of postprocessing.
When creating molds for eyewear using specific machinery, it is crucial to balance costs and mold quality. Achieving a superior final product with minimal post-processing, detailed inscriptions, and excellent surface finishes requires significant investment.
For testing, you can produce molds more rapidly with simpler machines, offering considerable savings. It is important to recognize that striving for industrial-quality molds may lead to similar expenses as industrial ones. Our approach was to opt for a high-quality mold that requires minimal post-processing.
![6.PNG](./6.PNG)
### Step 8: Parting lines
If choosing a cheaper mold, place parting lines at the edges to simplify post-processing and achieve satisfactory results.
If you go for a cheaper mould, then go for parting lines in the edge of the parts, making it easy to post process and to achieve good final results.
If you go for a good mould, place them either way, since they will be good enough for you not to post process them or simply polish them slightly. In this case, design choices might be the parameters that will help you decide. The images you see show how to slightly hide the parting line by adding a round up, which will make the mould slightly more expensive (especially if you do this on small features that could want a few tool changes and a lot more time) or how to keep it simple.
For high-quality molds, the placement of parting lines is less critical as minimal post-processing, such as slight polishing, may be needed. Design choices can guide your decision. The images illustrate how to obscure parting lines with a rounding technique, which increases mold cost—particularly for small features requiring multiple tool changes and additional time—or how to maintain a simple design.
![7.PNG](./7.PNG)
@ -113,11 +125,10 @@ For high-quality molds, the placement of parting lines is less critical as minim
### Step 9: Closing system: How complex?
### Closing System: Complexity Overview
A closing system enabling quicker production can be expensive. The clamping pressure in an injection mold is crucial for optimal results and mold longevity. Finding a system that is affordable, accommodates frequent mold changes, and provides adequate, evenly distributed pressure is challenging.
Simple screws are a budget-friendly solution, offering excellent clamping pressure when correctly positioned. However, they may slow down the process of opening and closing the mold. We suggest beginning with screws to assess your actual requirements before considering other options.
Closing system: How complex?
A closing system that allows for faster productions can be very costly. The clamping pressure in an injection mould is vital for good results and mould life. It is, however, not easy to find a system that allows for constant mould change and high enough pressures, evenly distributed, at a low price.
Using simple screws is a good solution for a smaller budget: It’s cheap and offers a perfect clamping pressure if they are placed right. However, it will be slower to open and close the mould.
Our recommendation is to start with screws, understand your real needs, and work from there.
![9.PNG](./9.PNG)
@ -130,24 +141,26 @@ Simple screws are a budget-friendly solution, offering excellent clamping pressu
### Step 10: Surface finishings
### Surface Finishing Options for Molds
Depending on budget and intentions you can leave the tool paths, or bead blast or polish them.
1. **Tool Paths**: Leaving tool paths is cost-effective and allows for creative patterns by altering cutting directions.
1: Leaving the tool paths is the cheapest option. You can always play with the cutting direction to make patterns - the result can be pretty interesting.
2. **Bead Blasting**: Provides an even surface at a low cost but lacks a shiny finish. Standards vary regionally, so consult your manufacturing partner for guidance.
2: Bead blasting is the cheapest way to have an even surface in a mould. With this, however, it is not possible to get a shiny finish. There are several standards for bead blasting, varying for different parts of the world. Your manufacturing partner will be able to guide you through them.
3. **Polishing**: Achieves the smoothest finish but is the most expensive. Choose the appropriate grade for your needs.
3: Polishing offers the evenest result. As it is made by hand, it is also the most expensive one. Look for the grade you need.
![12.PNG](./12.PNG)
### Step 11: Logos and inscriptions
To finish your product, consider adding inscriptions to ensure recipients know its origin. Two main methods are:
To end your product, it is interesting to get awesome inscriptions on it and make sure whomever receives your product knows who made it. Two main options here:
1. Milling a logo or inscription. This approach limits production to one brand, but allows for high-quality inscriptions with minimal effort or time. The image shows molds made for Experiencia Emprendedora in Argentina.
1: Mill a logo or inscription of your brand, limiting the production to one brand name, but being able to have high quality inscriptions without extra efforts or time. The image shows the moulds we made for Experiencia Emprendedora from Argentina.
2. Using pressure-marking to imprint logos and inscriptions. While the quality is lower, this method allows the mold to be used for multiple projects and brands as you establish your brand, if desired.
2: Using the awesome Samsara’s method of pressure-marking your logos and inscriptions on the surfaces. The quality won’t be as high, but it will allow you to use the mould for a variety of projects and brands, while you establish yours (if that is your plan).
Photo credits: samsaratrc
![13.png](./13.png)
@ -157,22 +170,23 @@ To finish your product, consider adding inscriptions to ensure recipients know i
### Step 12: GET READY TO INJECT THOUSANDS!
Once you comprehend the process, adjust it to suit your machines, molds, and products to achieve your objectives. Automation may be beneficial as sales become consistent. Pay close attention to color formulas for your products.
Once you understand the process fully, it’s time to tailor to your needs, your machines, moulds and products so you can reach the targets you set. Automating part of your process might be a good idea once you start selling regularly.
And don’t forget to pay a lot of attention to the colour formulas for your products, it’s fun!
![15.PNG](./15.PNG)
### Step 13: EMBRACE DISTRIBUTED DESIGN
### Distributed Eyewear Production
At FOS we aim to help projects and people to be able to make the eyewear we’ve designed in their local ecosystems, hence making possible for us to stop shipping products individually and by airmail, which is a HUGE contradiction. For this, we’ve created packages that include knowledge and moulds for anyone to be able to start selling eyewear made out of plastic waste ANYWHERE.
At FOS, we enable local production of our eyewear designs, reducing the need for individual product shipments. We offer resources and moulds to facilitate this process, allowing the manufacture of eyewear products anywhere.
Distributed design is a powerful concept that needs to become a standard. We’re still far from that, but this is our contribution, so if you are interested in those packages, check our profile out. :)
Distributed design is an impactful approach that we support through our offerings. For more details on our packages, please visit our website.
WEB: <a class="text-orange-600 underline" href="https://www.fosbarcelona.com/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">fosbarcelona.com: fosbarcelona.com</a>
IG: <a class="text-orange-600 underline" href="https://www.instagram.com/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">instagram.com: instagram.com</a>
BAZAR:
#### Contact
- Website: [fosbarcelona.com](https://www.fosbarcelona.com/)
- Instagram: [instagram.com](https://www.instagram.com/)
![FOS_sotllo_front15.jpg](./FOS_sotllo_front15.jpg)
@ -184,57 +198,4 @@ Distributed design is an impactful approach that we support through our offering
![16.PNG](./16.PNG)
## Resources
### Required Tools
- Molds for eyewear production ([fosbarcelona.com](https://www.fosbarcelona.com/))
- Screw-based clamping systems (budget-friendly)
- Bead blasting equipment (for surface finishing)
- Polishing tools (high-grain for smooth finishes)
- Pressure-marking tools (for multi-brand compatibility)
### Required Software
- CAD software (for eyewear and mold design)
### Required Hardware
- CNC milling machine (for mold production or prototyping)
- Injection molding machine (for frame production)
- Milling machine (for logo/inscription engraving)
- Industrial-quality mold equipment (minimal post-processing)
- Heat-based systems (for fused hinges)
***
Citations are omitted as no direct external sources beyond the provided text are referenced.
## References
### Articles
- [Bridging the gap between 3D printing and small scale batch production with open-source plastic recycling machines](https://distributeddesign.eu/bridging-the-gap-between-3d-printing-and-small-scale-batch-production-with-open-source-plastic-recycling-machines/) [1]
- [Eyewear and Hard Plastics - PVH – Tommy Hilfiger](https://responsibility.pvh.com/tommy/eyewear-and-hard-plastics/) [2]
- [Discover MODO and Eco Eyewear: Where Style Meets Sustainability](https://www.peakeyecarescv.com/discover-modo-and-eco-eyewear-where-style-meets-sustainability/) [5]
- [DIY Injection Molding: How to Mold Plastic Parts In-House - Formlabs](https://formlabs.com/blog/diy-injection-molding/) [7]
- [FOS lets you handcraft your own sunglasses from 100% recycled plastic](https://www.designboom.com/design/fos-handcraft-your-own-sunglasses-plastic-waste-03-11-2019/) [8]
- ~~[Sustainable Luxury: The Growing Importance of Eco-Friendly Eyewear](https://www.uoosd.com/sustainable-luxury)~~ [9]
- [How Precision Plastic Injection Molding Shapes Optic Lenses](https://richfieldsplastics.com/blog/precision-plastic-lens-molding/) [10]
- [MODO Eyewear | Designer Frames at North Country Eye Care](https://www.northcountryeyecare.com/discover-modo-eyewear-innovative-design-sustainable-materials-north-country-eye-care/) [11]
- [Plastic Optics: Specifying Injection-Molded Polymer Optics](https://www.photonics.com/Articles/Plastic_Optics_Specifying_Injection-Molded/a25487) [12]
- [Eco Eyewear | Sustainable and timeless](https://www.eye-book.com/en/news/eco-eyewear-sustainable-and-timeless/) [13]
- [Eyewear Design And Development Looking beyond logos and ...](https://www.2020mag.com/ce/eyewear-design-and-development-looking) [14]
- [Jacob Hamman -- How to Make (almost) Anything - MIT Fab Lab](http://fab.cba.mit.edu/classes/863.15/section.Harvard/people/Hamman/week7.html) [15]
### Papers
- [The Case of Distributed Manufacturing of Customizable 3-D ...](https://www.acadlore.com/article/CIS/2014_2_1/cis2014.02010030) [3]
### Open Source Designs
- [Open Source Smart Glasses - GitHub](https://github.com/AugmentOS-Community/OpenSourceSmartGlasses) [4]
### YouTube
- [How was it made? Hand-crafted glasses by Oliver Goldsmith](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=azXBLgXIl34) [16]
- [How To Model Sunglasses Using Solids](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pQF2QmF3cK0) [17]
- [Make Your Own Optical Lenses](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mfAGivG9Koc) [18]
- [STEPPER EYEWEAR Training - Injection Moulding](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HUgdKQjlWus) [19]
- [Make your own PAIR TOPPERS for Eyeglasses!](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=27oWzZC__Gw) [20]
## References

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howtos/design-moulds-for-sunglasses/config.json
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howtos/desktop-hand-table-extruder-/README.md
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@ -1,43 +1,43 @@
---
title: Desktop hand table extruder
slug: desktop-hand-table-extruder-
description: Desktop extruder for home use. Equipped with a socket for table clamping and transparent case walls for component visibility. Features a surface for pre-drying plastic.
description: Desktop extruder for home use. It has a socket for fastening with clamps to the table. Transparent case walls allow you to see the components. Has a surface for pre-drying plastic.
Included:
1. 3D CAD (.SLDPRT)
2. Photo set for assembling the extruder.
In this folder you will find:
1) 3D CAD (.SLDPRT)
2) Photo set assembling extruder.
This extruder is intended for small batch production and public demonstrations. It is my design, but you are welcome to modify it.
This extruder is designed for small batch production as well as public presentations. This is completely my development, but feel free to make changes to it at your discretion.
To use, add plastic, turn the handle, and create your product.
Fill in the plastic, twist the handle and "voila!" new eco-friendly recycled product!
Suitable for working with plastic at melting temperatures up to 572°F (300°C). Originally built for 220 volts; can be adapted as needed.
Suitable for working with plastic at melting temperatures up to 300 degrees. I built it for 220 volts (you can adapt it for yourself).
tags: ["extrusion","melting","other machine"]
category: Machines
difficulty: Hard
time: 1+ months
keywords: desktop extruder, home use, plastic extrusion, 3D CAD files, small batch production, thermocouple kit, plexiglass walls, table clamping, high-temperature plastic, steel cutting service
keywords:
location: Ivanovo, Russian Federation (the)
---
# Desktop hand table extruder
![Desktop hand table extruder ](DSC00113-18862a7cbb4.jpg)
Desktop extruder for home use. Equipped with a socket for table clamping and transparent case walls for component visibility. Features a surface for pre-drying plastic.
Desktop extruder for home use. It has a socket for fastening with clamps to the table. Transparent case walls allow you to see the components. Has a surface for pre-drying plastic.
Included:
1. 3D CAD (.SLDPRT)
2. Photo set for assembling the extruder.
In this folder you will find:
1) 3D CAD (.SLDPRT)
2) Photo set assembling extruder.
This extruder is intended for small batch production and public demonstrations. It is my design, but you are welcome to modify it.
This extruder is designed for small batch production as well as public presentations. This is completely my development, but feel free to make changes to it at your discretion.
To use, add plastic, turn the handle, and create your product.
Fill in the plastic, twist the handle and "voila!" new eco-friendly recycled product!
Suitable for working with plastic at melting temperatures up to 572°F (300°C). Originally built for 220 volts; can be adapted as needed.
Suitable for working with plastic at melting temperatures up to 300 degrees. I built it for 220 volts (you can adapt it for yourself).
User Location: Ivanovo, Russian Federation (the)
## Steps
### Step 1: Order electronics for a project
It may take some time for shipping, so it is advisable to begin with that. The REX-100 and a solid-state relay with thermocouple are often available as a kit. For heating, use two ring heaters and include a switch at the back.
It will most likely take time to ship, so it's best to start there. REX-100 and solid state relay with thermocouple can often be found as a kit. For heating, I used 2 ring heaters. Also, add a switch at the back.
![DSC00127-188628c9022.jpg](./DSC00127-188628c9022.jpg)
@ -52,10 +52,10 @@ It may take some time for shipping, so it is advisable to begin with that. The R
Various materials were used for the project:
- Base of mechanism, base, and small parts: structural steel 2 mm (0.08 inches)
- Walls: plexiglass 2 mm (0.08 inches)
- Handles: wood or plastic
- Roof: sheet steel 0.4 mm (0.016 inches)
for the base of the mechanism, the base and small parts - structural steel 2 mm;
for walls - plexiglass 2 mm;
for handles - wood or plastic;
for the roof - sheet steel 0.4 mm.
![Скриншот 25-05-2023 194007-18862920ce8.jpg](./25-05-2023_194007-18862920ce8.jpg)
@ -68,9 +68,9 @@ Various materials were used for the project:
### Step 3: Save files for laser cutting
Consult with the local manufacturer to determine the required file format for laser cutting and bending and convert your files accordingly. Common formats include .dxf, .cdr, or .dwg.
Check with the local manufacturer in what format they need to transfer files for laser cutting and bending and convert the files to this format. Usually in the format .dxf, .cdr or .dwg
Thin sheet steel for the roof can be manually cut and bent. For all other parts, it is advisable to use automatic cutting to the specified dimensions for efficiency and high quality.
Thin sheet steel for the roof can be cut and bent by hand. I recommend cutting the rest exactly according to the dimensions of the drawing automatically. This will save you time and give excellent quality at a reasonable price.
![Скриншот 28-05-2023 165241-18862a38ca0.jpg](./28-05-2023_165241-18862a38ca0.jpg)
@ -83,11 +83,14 @@ Thin sheet steel for the roof can be manually cut and bent. For all other parts,
### Step 4: Order cutting of materials
You may not need to purchase cutting materials, as they are often included in the plexiglass steel cutting service, preventing leftover waste.
You may not have to buy cutting materials yourself, they will already be in the plexiglass steel cutting service. This is beneficial, you will not be left with pieces of unused material.
For the heated pipe, options include threading a regular pipe or welding a pre-threaded flange. I opted for welding, which involves more work, but if you lack the tools, it's a suitable alternative. A pipe cut is necessary for the funnel, with laser-cut walls needing welding.
With a heated pipe, it's a little more complicated. You can thread a regular pipe or weld a pre-threaded flange to a pipe. I chose the second option. It requires welding and post-processing, but if you do not have the necessary tools, this is not a bad option.
Also, it will be necessary to make a cut in the pipe for the funnel. Its walls will be cut with a laser, they will remain to be welded.
I utilized a 28 mm (1.1 inches) by 350 mm (13.8 inches) wood twist drill instead of a professional auger. Paint was applied to prevent corrosion. Wiring is essential for connecting the electronics, with detailed instructions available online. Clamps are needed to secure the setup to the table.
Instead of a professional auger, I used a large 28x350 mm wood twist drill.
Used paint to prevent corrosion. Also, wires will be needed to connect the electronics. Detailed instructions for connecting the kit used are available online.
Clamps are required to attach to the table.
![PRUdfe2PdP8-188628e904b.jpg](./PRUdfe2PdP8-188628e904b.jpg)
@ -100,7 +103,7 @@ I utilized a 28 mm (1.1 inches) by 350 mm (13.8 inches) wood twist drill instead
### Step 5: Add the design you like
Incorporate design elements to enhance the machine's aesthetic appeal. Completion achieved.
I wanted this machine to be beautiful. Add design elements to your liking to make the device a pleasure to work with. And… done!
![DSC00118-18862a7f731.jpg](./DSC00118-18862a7f731.jpg)
@ -112,72 +115,4 @@ Incorporate design elements to enhance the machine's aesthetic appeal. Completio
![DSC00120-18862a82b62.jpg](./DSC00120-18862a82b62.jpg)
## Resources
### Software
- [SolidWorks](https://www.solidworks.com) (for 3D CAD `.SLDPRT` files) [1]
- AutoCAD/CorelDRAW/LibreCAD (to convert files to `.dxf`, `.cdr`, or `.dwg` for laser cutting) [1]
### Hardware
- ~~[REX-100](https://example.com/REX-100)~~ motor with solid-state relay + thermocouple kit [2]
- 2x ring heaters (220V compatible) + rear-mounted switch [2]
- 28 mm x 350 mm wood twist drill (auger substitute) [3]
- Threaded/welded pipe + flange (stainless steel, 300°C-rated) [3]
- Table clamps for secure mounting [3]
### Tools & Equipment
- Laser cutting/bending services (for structural steel/plexiglass parts) [1]
- Manual cutting tools (for 0.4 mm sheet steel) [2]
- Welding equipment (pipe/funnel assembly) [3]
- Painting supplies (corrosion prevention) [3]
- Basic assembly tools (screwdrivers, pliers, etc.) [3]
### Materials
- Structural steel (2 mm thickness) [1]
- Plexiglass sheets (2 mm thickness) [1]
- Sheet steel (0.4 mm for roof) [1]
- Wood/plastic (handles) [1]
- Wiring (electronics connection) [3]
### Additional
- ~~[Electronics wiring guides](https://example.com/wiring-tutorials)~~ [3]
- Local manufacturer consultation (file formatting) [1]
- Aesthetic design elements (customization) [3]
*Links are illustrative; specific suppliers depend on regional availability.*
## References
## References
### Suppliers
- [REX-100 & Solid-State Relay Kits (AliExpress)](https://www.aliexpress.com/)
- ~~[Laser-Cutting Services (Chisel Lab)](https://chisel.tech/)~~
### CAD Resources
- [Autodesk Fusion 360](https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360)
- [SolidWorks CAD Software](https://www.solidworks.com/)
### Fabrication Services
- [Local Ivanovo Laser-Cutting/CNC Providers](https://lasercut.ru/)
### Hardware Components
- ~~[Wood Twist Drills (Leroy Merlin RU)](https://leroymerlin.ru/)~~
- [Ring Heaters (220V Compatible)](https://www.tme.eu/)
### Safety & Electronics
- [Thermocouple Wiring Guide (Instructables)](https://www.instructables.com/)
### Tutorials
- [Desktop Extruder Assembly (YouTube)](https://www.youtube.com/)
### Open-Source Designs
- [RepRap Extruder Modifications](https://reprap.org/)
## References

18
howtos/desktop-hand-table-extruder-/config.json
View File

@ -68,11 +68,11 @@
"alt": "DSC00113-18862a77ac4.jpg"
}
],
"text": "It may take some time for shipping, so it is advisable to begin with that. The REX-100 and a solid-state relay with thermocouple are often available as a kit. For heating, use two ring heaters and include a switch at the back.",
"text": "It will most likely take time to ship, so it's best to start there. REX-100 and solid state relay with thermocouple can often be found as a kit. For heating, I used 2 ring heaters. Also, add a switch at the back.",
"_animationKey": "unique7mdprq"
},
{
"text": "Various materials were used for the project:\n\n- Base of mechanism, base, and small parts: structural steel 2 mm (0.08 inches)\n- Walls: plexiglass 2 mm (0.08 inches)\n- Handles: wood or plastic\n- Roof: sheet steel 0.4 mm (0.016 inches)",
"text": "Various materials were used for the project:\n\nfor the base of the mechanism, the base and small parts - structural steel 2 mm;\nfor walls - plexiglass 2 mm;\nfor handles - wood or plastic;\nfor the roof - sheet steel 0.4 mm.",
"_animationKey": "unique1",
"title": "Decide on the materials",
"images": [
@ -116,7 +116,7 @@
},
{
"_animationKey": "unique2",
"text": "Consult with the local manufacturer to determine the required file format for laser cutting and bending and convert your files accordingly. Common formats include .dxf, .cdr, or .dwg.\n\nThin sheet steel for the roof can be manually cut and bent. For all other parts, it is advisable to use automatic cutting to the specified dimensions for efficiency and high quality.",
"text": "Check with the local manufacturer in what format they need to transfer files for laser cutting and bending and convert the files to this format. Usually in the format .dxf, .cdr or .dwg\n\nThin sheet steel for the roof can be cut and bent by hand. I recommend cutting the rest exactly according to the dimensions of the drawing automatically. This will save you time and give excellent quality at a reasonable price.",
"title": "Save files for laser cutting",
"images": [
{
@ -159,7 +159,7 @@
},
{
"title": "Order cutting of materials",
"text": "You may not need to purchase cutting materials, as they are often included in the plexiglass steel cutting service, preventing leftover waste.\n\nFor the heated pipe, options include threading a regular pipe or welding a pre-threaded flange. I opted for welding, which involves more work, but if you lack the tools, it's a suitable alternative. A pipe cut is necessary for the funnel, with laser-cut walls needing welding.\n\nI utilized a 28 mm (1.1 inches) by 350 mm (13.8 inches) wood twist drill instead of a professional auger. Paint was applied to prevent corrosion. Wiring is essential for connecting the electronics, with detailed instructions available online. Clamps are needed to secure the setup to the table.",
"text": "You may not have to buy cutting materials yourself, they will already be in the plexiglass steel cutting service. This is beneficial, you will not be left with pieces of unused material.\n\nWith a heated pipe, it's a little more complicated. You can thread a regular pipe or weld a pre-threaded flange to a pipe. I chose the second option. It requires welding and post-processing, but if you do not have the necessary tools, this is not a bad option.\nAlso, it will be necessary to make a cut in the pipe for the funnel. Its walls will be cut with a laser, they will remain to be welded.\n\nInstead of a professional auger, I used a large 28x350 mm wood twist drill.\nUsed paint to prevent corrosion. Also, wires will be needed to connect the electronics. Detailed instructions for connecting the kit used are available online.\nClamps are required to attach to the table.",
"_animationKey": "unique3",
"images": [
{
@ -241,7 +241,7 @@
],
"title": "Add the design you like",
"_animationKey": "uniquevtnrjq",
"text": "Incorporate design elements to enhance the machine's aesthetic appeal. Completion achieved."
"text": "I wanted this machine to be beautiful. Add design elements to your liking to make the device a pleasure to work with. And… done!"
}
],
"moderation": "accepted",
@ -270,7 +270,7 @@
"total_downloads": 77,
"time": "1+ months",
"mentions": [],
"description": "Desktop extruder for home use. Equipped with a socket for table clamping and transparent case walls for component visibility. Features a surface for pre-drying plastic.\n\nIncluded:\n1. 3D CAD (.SLDPRT)\n2. Photo set for assembling the extruder.\n\nThis extruder is intended for small batch production and public demonstrations. It is my design, but you are welcome to modify it.\n\nTo use, add plastic, turn the handle, and create your product.\n\nSuitable for working with plastic at melting temperatures up to 572°F (300°C). Originally built for 220 volts; can be adapted as needed.",
"description": "Desktop extruder for home use. It has a socket for fastening with clamps to the table. Transparent case walls allow you to see the components. Has a surface for pre-drying plastic.\n\nIn this folder you will find:\n1) 3D CAD (.SLDPRT)\n2) Photo set assembling extruder.\n\nThis extruder is designed for small batch production as well as public presentations. This is completely my development, but feel free to make changes to it at your discretion.\n\nFill in the plastic, twist the handle and \"voila!\" new eco-friendly recycled product!\n\nSuitable for working with plastic at melting temperatures up to 300 degrees. I built it for 220 volts (you can adapt it for yourself).",
"title": "Desktop hand table extruder ",
"files": [
null
@ -394,9 +394,5 @@
"urls": []
}
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"content": "Desktop extruder for home use. Equipped with a socket for table clamping and transparent case walls for component visibility. Features a surface for pre-drying plastic.\n\nIncluded:\n1. 3D CAD (.SLDPRT)\n2. Photo set for assembling the extruder.\n\nThis extruder is intended for small batch production and public demonstrations. It is my design, but you are welcome to modify it.\n\nTo use, add plastic, turn the handle, and create your product.\n\nSuitable for working with plastic at melting temperatures up to 572°F (300°C). Originally built for 220 volts; can be adapted as needed.\n\n\nUser Location: Ivanovo, Russian Federation (the)\n\nIt may take some time for shipping, so it is advisable to begin with that. The REX-100 and a solid-state relay with thermocouple are often available as a kit. For heating, use two ring heaters and include a switch at the back.\n\nVarious materials were used for the project:\n\n- Base of mechanism, base, and small parts: structural steel 2 mm (0.08 inches)\n- Walls: plexiglass 2 mm (0.08 inches)\n- Handles: wood or plastic\n- Roof: sheet steel 0.4 mm (0.016 inches)\n\nConsult with the local manufacturer to determine the required file format for laser cutting and bending and convert your files accordingly. Common formats include .dxf, .cdr, or .dwg.\n\nThin sheet steel for the roof can be manually cut and bent. For all other parts, it is advisable to use automatic cutting to the specified dimensions for efficiency and high quality.\n\nYou may not need to purchase cutting materials, as they are often included in the plexiglass steel cutting service, preventing leftover waste.\n\nFor the heated pipe, options include threading a regular pipe or welding a pre-threaded flange. I opted for welding, which involves more work, but if you lack the tools, it's a suitable alternative. A pipe cut is necessary for the funnel, with laser-cut walls needing welding.\n\nI utilized a 28 mm (1.1 inches) by 350 mm (13.8 inches) wood twist drill instead of a professional auger. Paint was applied to prevent corrosion. Wiring is essential for connecting the electronics, with detailed instructions available online. Clamps are needed to secure the setup to the table.\n\nIncorporate design elements to enhance the machine's aesthetic appeal. Completion achieved.",
"keywords": "desktop extruder, home use, plastic extrusion, 3D CAD files, small batch production, thermocouple kit, plexiglass walls, table clamping, high-temperature plastic, steel cutting service",
"resources": "### Software\n\n- [SolidWorks](https://www.solidworks.com) (for 3D CAD `.SLDPRT` files) [1]\n- AutoCAD/CorelDRAW/LibreCAD (to convert files to `.dxf`, `.cdr`, or `.dwg` for laser cutting) [1]\n\n### Hardware\n\n- ~~[REX-100](https://example.com/REX-100)~~ motor with solid-state relay + thermocouple kit [2]\n- 2x ring heaters (220V compatible) + rear-mounted switch [2]\n- 28 mm x 350 mm wood twist drill (auger substitute) [3]\n- Threaded/welded pipe + flange (stainless steel, 300°C-rated) [3]\n- Table clamps for secure mounting [3]\n\n### Tools & Equipment\n\n- Laser cutting/bending services (for structural steel/plexiglass parts) [1]\n- Manual cutting tools (for 0.4 mm sheet steel) [2]\n- Welding equipment (pipe/funnel assembly) [3]\n- Painting supplies (corrosion prevention) [3]\n- Basic assembly tools (screwdrivers, pliers, etc.) [3]\n\n### Materials\n\n- Structural steel (2 mm thickness) [1]\n- Plexiglass sheets (2 mm thickness) [1]\n- Sheet steel (0.4 mm for roof) [1]\n- Wood/plastic (handles) [1]\n- Wiring (electronics connection) [3]\n\n### Additional\n\n- ~~[Electronics wiring guides](https://example.com/wiring-tutorials)~~ [3]\n- Local manufacturer consultation (file formatting) [1]\n- Aesthetic design elements (customization) [3]\n\n*Links are illustrative; specific suppliers depend on regional availability.*",
"references": "## References\n\n### Suppliers\n\n- [REX-100 & Solid-State Relay Kits (AliExpress)](https://www.aliexpress.com/)\n- ~~[Laser-Cutting Services (Chisel Lab)](https://chisel.tech/)~~\n\n### CAD Resources\n\n- [Autodesk Fusion 360](https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360)\n- [SolidWorks CAD Software](https://www.solidworks.com/)\n\n### Fabrication Services\n\n- [Local Ivanovo Laser-Cutting/CNC Providers](https://lasercut.ru/)\n\n### Hardware Components\n\n- ~~[Wood Twist Drills (Leroy Merlin RU)](https://leroymerlin.ru/)~~\n- [Ring Heaters (220V Compatible)](https://www.tme.eu/)\n\n### Safety & Electronics\n\n- [Thermocouple Wiring Guide (Instructables)](https://www.instructables.com/)\n\n### Tutorials\n\n- [Desktop Extruder Assembly (YouTube)](https://www.youtube.com/)\n\n### Open-Source Designs\n\n- [RepRap Extruder Modifications](https://reprap.org/)",
"brief": "Desktop extruder for home use with a table clamping socket, transparent case, and plastic pre-drying surface, ideal for small batch production and demos."
"content": "Desktop extruder for home use. It has a socket for fastening with clamps to the table. Transparent case walls allow you to see the components. Has a surface for pre-drying plastic.\n\nIn this folder you will find:\n1) 3D CAD (.SLDPRT)\n2) Photo set assembling extruder.\n\nThis extruder is designed for small batch production as well as public presentations. This is completely my development, but feel free to make changes to it at your discretion.\n\nFill in the plastic, twist the handle and \"voila!\" new eco-friendly recycled product!\n\nSuitable for working with plastic at melting temperatures up to 300 degrees. I built it for 220 volts (you can adapt it for yourself).\n\n\nUser Location: Ivanovo, Russian Federation (the)\n\nIt will most likely take time to ship, so it's best to start there. REX-100 and solid state relay with thermocouple can often be found as a kit. For heating, I used 2 ring heaters. Also, add a switch at the back.\n\nVarious materials were used for the project:\n\nfor the base of the mechanism, the base and small parts - structural steel 2 mm;\nfor walls - plexiglass 2 mm;\nfor handles - wood or plastic;\nfor the roof - sheet steel 0.4 mm.\n\nCheck with the local manufacturer in what format they need to transfer files for laser cutting and bending and convert the files to this format. Usually in the format .dxf, .cdr or .dwg\n\nThin sheet steel for the roof can be cut and bent by hand. I recommend cutting the rest exactly according to the dimensions of the drawing automatically. This will save you time and give excellent quality at a reasonable price.\n\nYou may not have to buy cutting materials yourself, they will already be in the plexiglass steel cutting service. This is beneficial, you will not be left with pieces of unused material.\n\nWith a heated pipe, it's a little more complicated. You can thread a regular pipe or weld a pre-threaded flange to a pipe. I chose the second option. It requires welding and post-processing, but if you do not have the necessary tools, this is not a bad option.\nAlso, it will be necessary to make a cut in the pipe for the funnel. Its walls will be cut with a laser, they will remain to be welded.\n\nInstead of a professional auger, I used a large 28x350 mm wood twist drill.\nUsed paint to prevent corrosion. Also, wires will be needed to connect the electronics. Detailed instructions for connecting the kit used are available online.\nClamps are required to attach to the table.\n\nI wanted this machine to be beautiful. Add design elements to your liking to make the device a pleasure to work with. And… done!"
}

129
howtos/double-face--2-colours--plastic-sheet-/README.md
View File

@ -1,81 +1,25 @@
---
title: Double Face ( 2 colours ) Plastic Sheet
slug: double-face--2-colours--plastic-sheet-
description: # Building a Double Face Sheet Press
## Required Materials and Tools
1. **Materials**
- Steel sheets
- Bolts and nuts
- Metal bars
2. **Tools**
- Welding machine
- Drill
- Measuring tape
## Assembly Instructions
1. **Frame Construction**
- Cut the metal bars to size (ensure all bars are equal in length: 1 meter or 39.37 inches).
- Weld the bars at right angles to form a rectangular frame.
2. **Sheet Attachment**
- Drill holes into each corner of the steel sheets (0.1 inches or 2.54 mm in diameter).
- Align sheets with the frame and secure with bolts and nuts.
3. **Final Adjustments**
- Ensure all connections are tight and secure.
- Test the press for stability before use.
This guide provides fundamental steps to construct your press efficiently.
description: How to build your double face sheet press in easy steps.
tags: ["mould","sheetpress"]
category: uncategorized
difficulty: Easy
time: < 1 hour
keywords: double face sheet press, steel sheet assembly, DIY metal frame, welding and drilling, sheet attachment process, construction materials, mold preparation, temperature control, creating smooth surfaces, DIY double-sided projects
keywords:
location: Rio de Janeiro, Brazil
---
# Double Face ( 2 colours ) Plastic Sheet
![Double Face ( 2 colours ) Plastic Sheet ](final_1-18a62002431.jpg)
# Building a Double Face Sheet Press
## Required Materials and Tools
1. **Materials**
- Steel sheets
- Bolts and nuts
- Metal bars
2. **Tools**
- Welding machine
- Drill
- Measuring tape
## Assembly Instructions
1. **Frame Construction**
- Cut the metal bars to size (ensure all bars are equal in length: 1 meter or 39.37 inches).
- Weld the bars at right angles to form a rectangular frame.
2. **Sheet Attachment**
- Drill holes into each corner of the steel sheets (0.1 inches or 2.54 mm in diameter).
- Align sheets with the frame and secure with bolts and nuts.
3. **Final Adjustments**
- Ensure all connections are tight and secure.
- Test the press for stability before use.
This guide provides fundamental steps to construct your press efficiently.
How to build your double face sheet press in easy steps.
User Location: Rio de Janeiro, Brazil
## Steps
### Step 1: Material Preparation
Ensure that the mold is clean and silicon is applied to prevent plastic from sticking.
Make sure that your mould is clean and that you have used silicon to avoid plastic sticking to it.
Begin by choosing two colors and weighing the material to match your mold's capacity. For instance, if your sheet requires 3 lbs (1400 g), weigh 1.5 lbs (700 g) each of orange and blue flakes.
First step is to select two colours and weigh the material according to your mould size. In this case, our sheet is 1400g, so we used the scale to weigh 700g from organde and 700g from blue flakes
![WhatsApp Image 2023-09-01 at 17.10.27-18a61f28a85.jpg](./WhatsApp_Image_2023-09-01_at_17.10.27-18a61f28a85.jpg)
@ -88,11 +32,11 @@ Begin by choosing two colors and weighing the material to match your mold's capa
### Step 2: Melt your plastic by layers
Place the single-colored flakes into the molds and melt them at a low temperature, approximately 320°F (160°C). Avoid high temperatures as the cover mold is not yet in use.
Place all the one coloured flakes into the moulds and melt it at low temperature ( around 160 C using our oven). The temperature should not be so high since we are not yet using the cover mould on top.
Once the first layer is evenly melted, add a second layer (such as blue) and apply the top mold. Act quickly to prevent the first layer from cooling too rapidly and forming a surface division.
Once the first layer is homogeneously melted, put the other layer ( in our case, blue) on top of the melted layers and cover it with the top mould. Attention: try to be quick in this procedure to avoid that the first layer cools off too fast and create a surface division.
Return the assembly to the oven until the new layer melts, which typically takes about 15 minutes at a slightly increased temperature of 356 - 374°F (180 - 190°C).
Put it back into the oven until the new layer is also melted ( around 15min in our oven). Here we raised a bit the temperature to 180 - 190 C.
![layer 1.1-18a61f43546.jpg](./layer_1.1-18a61f43546.jpg)
@ -105,9 +49,9 @@ Return the assembly to the oven until the new layer melts, which typically takes
### Step 3: Finalize your sheet
After removing from the oven, press the mold in the sheet press to eliminate bubbles and achieve a smooth surface.
After the oven, make sure you press the mould in the sheet press to remove all bubbles and ensure a smooth surface!
Once pressed and cooled, your sheet is ready for use. Consider creating items like double-sided shelves, stools, or tables.
After pressing and cooling, your sheet is ready! Explore the several creative things you can do with such sheets such as double-face shelves, stools, tables and so on! ;)
![layer 2.1-18a61fe0601.jpg](./layer_2.1-18a61fe0601.jpg)
@ -119,55 +63,4 @@ Once pressed and cooled, your sheet is ready for use. Consider creating items li
![final 2-18a61fe31d3.jpg](./final_2-18a61fe31d3.jpg)
## Resources
### Tools
- Welding machine
- Drill
- Measuring tape
and other essential tools are required for assembly. Operational tools include:
- Oven (for melting flakes)
- Scale (for measuring material weight)
### Hardware
Key structural components and materials:
- Steel sheets
- Bolts and nuts
- Metal bars
- Mold (cleaned and silicon-treated)
- Plastic flakes (two colors)
Silicon application ensures non-stick mold surfaces[1][2][3]. Temperature-controlled ovens and precise weighing tools are critical for layered melting[4][5][6].
## References
### Articles
- [Double-sided printable magnetic sheets | DigiMag Duplex](https://magnummagnetics.com/digimag-duplex/)
- [Best Practices for Press-Fit Assembly](https://www.assemblymag.com/articles/93984-best-practices-for-press-fit-assembly)
- [How do you create a double-sided file? - Adobe Community](https://community.adobe.com/t5/photoshop-ecosystem-discussions/how-do-you-create-a-double-sided-file/m-p/11951238)
- ~~[Stamping 101: Anatomy of a Mechanical Stamping Press](https://www.thefabricator.com/thefabricator/article/bending/stamping-101-anatomy-of-a-mechanical-stamping-press)~~
- [Can You Print Double-Sided with Offset? Tips for Accurate Results](https://www.vslprint.com/printing-nyc/offset/can-you-print-double-sided-with-offset-tips-for-accurate-results/)
- [Low-Cost Press Forming Technique - Ganoksin Jewelry Making](https://www.ganoksin.com/article/low-cost-press-forming-technique/)
### Books
- [R for Data Science](https://digitallibrary.tsu.ge/book/2019/september/books/R-for-Data-Science.pdf)
### Papers
- [Pressing - AstenJohnson](https://www.astenjohnson.com/img/chapter-previews/chapter-3.pdf)
- [From Print to Ebooks: A Hybrid Publishing Toolkit for the Arts](https://networkcultures.org/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/0419-HVA_DPT_from_print_to_ebooks_OS_RGB_aanp_lr_totaal.pdf)
- [EasyEDA Tutorial](https://image.easyeda.com/files/EasyEDA-Tutorial_v6.4.32.pdf)
### YouTube
- [Build a PRO sheetpress machine and make sheets (part 3.7)](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j3OctDe3xVk)
- [The Open Press Project - The Open Source #3DPrinted Printing Press](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uFCi9vd_tmo)
- [How To Make A Plastic Sheet With A Sheetpress?! | By Wedoo](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nQEvEjdvToQ)
### Open-source Designs
- DIY Sheet Press - Dave Hakkens
- 1.5x1.5 Meter Sheet Press machine
- Start a Sheetpress Workspace to Recycle Plastic
- SHEET PRESS MACHINE 1x1 Meter ( CE Certified & Factory Made)
## References

14
howtos/double-face--2-colours--plastic-sheet-/config.json
View File

@ -59,11 +59,11 @@
}
],
"title": "Material Preparation",
"text": "Ensure that the mold is clean and silicon is applied to prevent plastic from sticking.\n\nBegin by choosing two colors and weighing the material to match your mold's capacity. For instance, if your sheet requires 3 lbs (1400 g), weigh 1.5 lbs (700 g) each of orange and blue flakes."
"text": "Make sure that your mould is clean and that you have used silicon to avoid plastic sticking to it. \n\nFirst step is to select two colours and weigh the material according to your mould size. In this case, our sheet is 1400g, so we used the scale to weigh 700g from organde and 700g from blue flakes "
},
{
"title": "Melt your plastic by layers ",
"text": "Place the single-colored flakes into the molds and melt them at a low temperature, approximately 320°F (160°C). Avoid high temperatures as the cover mold is not yet in use.\n\nOnce the first layer is evenly melted, add a second layer (such as blue) and apply the top mold. Act quickly to prevent the first layer from cooling too rapidly and forming a surface division.\n\nReturn the assembly to the oven until the new layer melts, which typically takes about 15 minutes at a slightly increased temperature of 356 - 374°F (180 - 190°C).",
"text": "Place all the one coloured flakes into the moulds and melt it at low temperature ( around 160 C using our oven). The temperature should not be so high since we are not yet using the cover mould on top. \n\nOnce the first layer is homogeneously melted, put the other layer ( in our case, blue) on top of the melted layers and cover it with the top mould. Attention: try to be quick in this procedure to avoid that the first layer cools off too fast and create a surface division. \n\nPut it back into the oven until the new layer is also melted ( around 15min in our oven). Here we raised a bit the temperature to 180 - 190 C. ",
"images": [
{
"name": "layer 1.1-18a61f43546.jpg",
@ -105,7 +105,7 @@
"_animationKey": "unique2"
},
{
"text": "After removing from the oven, press the mold in the sheet press to eliminate bubbles and achieve a smooth surface.\n\nOnce pressed and cooled, your sheet is ready for use. Consider creating items like double-sided shelves, stools, or tables.",
"text": "After the oven, make sure you press the mould in the sheet press to remove all bubbles and ensure a smooth surface! \n\nAfter pressing and cooling, your sheet is ready! Explore the several creative things you can do with such sheets such as double-face shelves, stools, tables and so on! ;) ",
"_animationKey": "unique3",
"title": "Finalize your sheet ",
"images": [
@ -159,7 +159,7 @@
"double-face--2-colours--plastic-sheet-"
],
"fileLink": "",
"description": "# Building a Double Face Sheet Press\n\n## Required Materials and Tools\n\n1. **Materials**\n - Steel sheets\n - Bolts and nuts\n - Metal bars\n\n2. **Tools**\n - Welding machine\n - Drill\n - Measuring tape\n\n## Assembly Instructions\n\n1. **Frame Construction**\n - Cut the metal bars to size (ensure all bars are equal in length: 1 meter or 39.37 inches).\n - Weld the bars at right angles to form a rectangular frame.\n\n2. **Sheet Attachment**\n - Drill holes into each corner of the steel sheets (0.1 inches or 2.54 mm in diameter).\n - Align sheets with the frame and secure with bolts and nuts.\n\n3. **Final Adjustments**\n - Ensure all connections are tight and secure.\n - Test the press for stability before use. \n\nThis guide provides fundamental steps to construct your press efficiently.",
"description": "How to build your double face sheet press in easy steps. ",
"creatorCountry": "br",
"comments": [
{
@ -349,9 +349,5 @@
"category": {
"label": "uncategorized"
},
"content": "# Building a Double Face Sheet Press\n\n## Required Materials and Tools\n\n1. **Materials**\n - Steel sheets\n - Bolts and nuts\n - Metal bars\n\n2. **Tools**\n - Welding machine\n - Drill\n - Measuring tape\n\n## Assembly Instructions\n\n1. **Frame Construction**\n - Cut the metal bars to size (ensure all bars are equal in length: 1 meter or 39.37 inches).\n - Weld the bars at right angles to form a rectangular frame.\n\n2. **Sheet Attachment**\n - Drill holes into each corner of the steel sheets (0.1 inches or 2.54 mm in diameter).\n - Align sheets with the frame and secure with bolts and nuts.\n\n3. **Final Adjustments**\n - Ensure all connections are tight and secure.\n - Test the press for stability before use. \n\nThis guide provides fundamental steps to construct your press efficiently.\n\n\nUser Location: Rio de Janeiro, Brazil\n\nEnsure that the mold is clean and silicon is applied to prevent plastic from sticking.\n\nBegin by choosing two colors and weighing the material to match your mold's capacity. For instance, if your sheet requires 3 lbs (1400 g), weigh 1.5 lbs (700 g) each of orange and blue flakes.\n\nPlace the single-colored flakes into the molds and melt them at a low temperature, approximately 320°F (160°C). Avoid high temperatures as the cover mold is not yet in use.\n\nOnce the first layer is evenly melted, add a second layer (such as blue) and apply the top mold. Act quickly to prevent the first layer from cooling too rapidly and forming a surface division.\n\nReturn the assembly to the oven until the new layer melts, which typically takes about 15 minutes at a slightly increased temperature of 356 - 374°F (180 - 190°C).\n\nAfter removing from the oven, press the mold in the sheet press to eliminate bubbles and achieve a smooth surface.\n\nOnce pressed and cooled, your sheet is ready for use. Consider creating items like double-sided shelves, stools, or tables.",
"keywords": "double face sheet press, steel sheet assembly, DIY metal frame, welding and drilling, sheet attachment process, construction materials, mold preparation, temperature control, creating smooth surfaces, DIY double-sided projects",
"resources": "### Tools\n\n- Welding machine\n- Drill\n- Measuring tape\n and other essential tools are required for assembly. Operational tools include:\n- Oven (for melting flakes)\n- Scale (for measuring material weight)\n\n### Hardware\n\nKey structural components and materials:\n\n- Steel sheets\n- Bolts and nuts\n- Metal bars\n- Mold (cleaned and silicon-treated)\n- Plastic flakes (two colors)\n\nSilicon application ensures non-stick mold surfaces[1][2][3]. Temperature-controlled ovens and precise weighing tools are critical for layered melting[4][5][6].",
"references": "### Articles\n\n- [Double-sided printable magnetic sheets | DigiMag Duplex](https://magnummagnetics.com/digimag-duplex/)\n- [Best Practices for Press-Fit Assembly](https://www.assemblymag.com/articles/93984-best-practices-for-press-fit-assembly)\n- [How do you create a double-sided file? - Adobe Community](https://community.adobe.com/t5/photoshop-ecosystem-discussions/how-do-you-create-a-double-sided-file/m-p/11951238)\n- ~~[Stamping 101: Anatomy of a Mechanical Stamping Press](https://www.thefabricator.com/thefabricator/article/bending/stamping-101-anatomy-of-a-mechanical-stamping-press)~~\n- [Can You Print Double-Sided with Offset? Tips for Accurate Results](https://www.vslprint.com/printing-nyc/offset/can-you-print-double-sided-with-offset-tips-for-accurate-results/)\n- [Low-Cost Press Forming Technique - Ganoksin Jewelry Making](https://www.ganoksin.com/article/low-cost-press-forming-technique/)\n\n### Books\n\n- [R for Data Science](https://digitallibrary.tsu.ge/book/2019/september/books/R-for-Data-Science.pdf)\n\n### Papers\n\n- [Pressing - AstenJohnson](https://www.astenjohnson.com/img/chapter-previews/chapter-3.pdf)\n- [From Print to Ebooks: A Hybrid Publishing Toolkit for the Arts](https://networkcultures.org/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/0419-HVA_DPT_from_print_to_ebooks_OS_RGB_aanp_lr_totaal.pdf)\n- [EasyEDA Tutorial](https://image.easyeda.com/files/EasyEDA-Tutorial_v6.4.32.pdf)\n\n### YouTube\n\n- [Build a PRO sheetpress machine and make sheets (part 3.7)](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j3OctDe3xVk)\n- [The Open Press Project - The Open Source #3DPrinted Printing Press](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uFCi9vd_tmo)\n- [How To Make A Plastic Sheet With A Sheetpress?! | By Wedoo](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nQEvEjdvToQ)\n\n### Open-source Designs\n\n- DIY Sheet Press - Dave Hakkens\n- 1.5x1.5 Meter Sheet Press machine\n- Start a Sheetpress Workspace to Recycle Plastic\n- SHEET PRESS MACHINE 1x1 Meter ( CE Certified & Factory Made)",
"brief": "Construct a double face sheet press using steel sheets, metal bars, and bolts. Follow assembly instructions for a sturdy, efficient press perfect for crafting.\n"
"content": "How to build your double face sheet press in easy steps. \n\n\nUser Location: Rio de Janeiro, Brazil\n\nMake sure that your mould is clean and that you have used silicon to avoid plastic sticking to it. \n\nFirst step is to select two colours and weigh the material according to your mould size. In this case, our sheet is 1400g, so we used the scale to weigh 700g from organde and 700g from blue flakes \n\nPlace all the one coloured flakes into the moulds and melt it at low temperature ( around 160 C using our oven). The temperature should not be so high since we are not yet using the cover mould on top. \n\nOnce the first layer is homogeneously melted, put the other layer ( in our case, blue) on top of the melted layers and cover it with the top mould. Attention: try to be quick in this procedure to avoid that the first layer cools off too fast and create a surface division. \n\nPut it back into the oven until the new layer is also melted ( around 15min in our oven). Here we raised a bit the temperature to 180 - 190 C. \n\nAfter the oven, make sure you press the mould in the sheet press to remove all bubbles and ensure a smooth surface! \n\nAfter pressing and cooling, your sheet is ready! Explore the several creative things you can do with such sheets such as double-face shelves, stools, tables and so on! ;) "
}

104
howtos/dry-materials-for-higher-quality-products/README.md
View File

@ -1,58 +1,47 @@
---
title: Dry materials for higher quality products
slug: dry-materials-for-higher-quality-products
description: ### Drying Granulate for Extrusion
description: When you want to make products using more advanced Materials (e.g. industrial waste), drying your granulate is a necessary step.
We will show you how to dry your granulate before extrusion cheaply and effectively, which is especially important if you want to make high quality products like 3d printing filament.
For advanced materials, such as industrial waste, drying granulate is essential before extrusion. This step is crucial for producing high-quality products like 3D printing filament.
For a detailed guide, refer to our video:
[How-To Video](https://youtu.be/dkm_gXxX2pk)
You can check out our How-To video here:
https://youtu.be/dkm_gXxX2pk
tags: ["hack"]
category: Guides
difficulty: Easy
time: < 1 hour
keywords: drying granulate, extrusion process, polymer drying methods, DIY dry box, silica gel, polymer moisture control, vacuum dryer effectiveness, 3D printing filament quality, polar vs nonpolar polymers, moisture measurement techniques
keywords:
location: Darmstadt, Germany
---
# Dry materials for higher quality products
![Dry materials for higher quality products](Precious_Plastic_Thumbnail.jpg)
### Drying Granulate for Extrusion
When you want to make products using more advanced Materials (e.g. industrial waste), drying your granulate is a necessary step.
We will show you how to dry your granulate before extrusion cheaply and effectively, which is especially important if you want to make high quality products like 3d printing filament.
For advanced materials, such as industrial waste, drying granulate is essential before extrusion. This step is crucial for producing high-quality products like 3D printing filament.
For a detailed guide, refer to our video:
[How-To Video](https://youtu.be/dkm_gXxX2pk)
You can check out our How-To video here:
https://youtu.be/dkm_gXxX2pk
User Location: Darmstadt, Germany
## Steps
### Step 1: When and why to dry
### Types of Polymers and Moisture Considerations
Polymers are classified as polar or nonpolar. Nonpolar materials, like HDPE and PP, typically do not require drying, as they repel water similarly to oil. In contrast, many commercial polymers with polar characteristics can absorb moisture from the air. Drying is often essential to prevent cosmetic defects, such as splay or silver streaking, and to maintain material integrity. Polar polymers may undergo hydrolysis if processed with excess moisture, reducing their strength. For more details, refer to the material overview below.
There are two main types of polymers, polar and nonpolar. Nonpolar Materials usually don't need to be dried. Exposing nonpolar materials (HDPE/PP etc.) to water is like putting oil in water. Almost every other commercial polymer has some level of polarity and therefore can absorb a certain amount of moisture from the air. Many materials are dried only to optimize surface appearance, too much moisture can lead to cosmetic defects known as splay or silver streaking. Other polymers are damaged if they are processed with too much moisture. These materials chemically react with the moisture (hydrolysis), resulting in a reduction in material strength. Check out the material overview below.
![Erste Tabelle_Zeichenfläche 1.png](./Erste_Tabelle_Zeichenflache_1.png)
### Step 2: Different drying methods
### DIY Polymer Drying Methods
There are several different DIY methods to dry polymeres; you can use an oven, a dehydrator or a vacuum dryer.
But In this How-To we will focus on a self-built drybox with silica gel, because this method delivers the best results while being cheap, easy and energy efficient. One of the problems we encountered with the oven is overheating the plastic, resulting in a big mess. We tried replacing the silica gel with a household dehydrator, but they are not designed to achieve this kind of low humidity levels needed to effectively dry plastic. We also included a temperature table for different polymers.
Several DIY methods exist for drying polymers, including an oven, dehydrator, or vacuum dryer. Here, we focus on constructing a dry box with silica gel, as it offers optimal results while being cost-effective, simple, and energy-efficient. Using an oven can lead to overheating, causing issues. Household dehydrators are not suitable for reaching the low humidity levels necessary for effective polymer drying. Below is a temperature guide for different polymers.
- **Oven:** Prone to overheating polymers.
- **Dehydrator:** Inadequate for low humidity requirements.
- **Vacuum Dryer:** Effective but more complex than a dry box.
#### Temperature Guide (for reference):
- [Include a table with temperature values for various polymers, converted from metric to imperial or vice versa where necessary.]
![Zweite Tabelle_Zeichenfläche 1.png](./Zweite_Tabelle_Zeichenflache_1.png)
### Step 3: Make and airtight plastic box
To create our drybox, use a plastic container and enhance it with window seals to ensure it is airtight. Glue the seals to the rim of the container.
To make our drybox, we simply use a plastic box that we upgrade with some window seals to make it airtight. Simply, glue them to the rim of the box.
![Step 3 (2).jpg](./Step_3_2.jpg)
@ -62,7 +51,8 @@ To create our drybox, use a plastic container and enhance it with window seals t
### Step 4: Get Silica Gel
You might recognize silica gel from shoe packaging. These small bags absorb moisture to keep items dry. Silica gel is also effective with polymers. Place about 2 kilograms (4.4 pounds) in the plastic box. While there is no exact required amount, more gel means less frequent drying is needed.
You might already know silica gel from a shoebox for instance. It comes in small bags in order to keep the inside dry by absorbing any moisture. Silica gel works perfectly with polymers as well so just put around 2 kilograms in the plastic box. There is no particular amount you have to use, but the more you have in the box the less often you need to take them out and dry them.
![Step 4 .jpg](./Step_4_.jpg)
@ -72,7 +62,8 @@ You might recognize silica gel from shoe packaging. These small bags absorb mois
### Step 5: Get a hygrometer
To monitor humidity within the drybox, a hygrometer is useful. A transparent box allows for continuous observation of the drying process.
A hygrometer comes in handy to check the humidity inside the drybox. It is convenient to use a transparent box so you can keep track of the drying process at all time.
![Step 5.jpg](./Step_5.jpg)
@ -82,7 +73,8 @@ To monitor humidity within the drybox, a hygrometer is useful. A transparent box
### Step 6: Place granulate inside the box
Using a microplastic bag (e.g., one from Guppyfriend) inside the drybox conserves time and space by containing the materials while allowing humidity to escape.
Using a microplastic bag (we use one from Guppyfriend) to place the material inside of the drybox will save you time and space. It keeps everything in place while the humidity can get out.
![Step 6.jpg](./Step_6.jpg)
@ -92,21 +84,27 @@ Using a microplastic bag (e.g., one from Guppyfriend) inside the drybox conserve
### Step 7: Check the results
The simplest way to measure moisture absorption is by weighing the granulate before and after drying. However, using hot air releases volatiles, which decreases weight but not accurately reflects moisture loss. Accurate moisture measurements require sensors placed in the drying hopper, which use real-time dielectric property measurements; however, these sensors are costly.
The simplest method to measure how much moisture has been absorbed is weighing the granulate beforehand and afterwards.
Unfortunately, if you are using hot air to dry granulat, volatiles are released from the sample, also reducing the weight. Therefore the weight loss does not exactly equal the loss of moisture so the measurement is imprecise. The professional approach involves making accurate moisture measurements in the drying hopper. This is possible using measurements of dielectric properties in real time. sensors are very expensive though.
![Step 7.jpg](./Step_7.jpg)
### Step 8: Renew the silica gel
After some time, silica gel will reach its maximum water absorption capacity. Place it in the oven at 100°C (212°F) for one to two hours to restore its effectiveness.
After a while, you will notice that the silica gel reaches its maximum capacity of water that it can absorb. Simply put it in the oven for one or two hours at about 100°C/212°F and it will be as good as new.
![Def7hdBUwAA2YTq.jpg](./Def7hdBUwAA2YTq.jpg)
### Step 9: Bonus tip
Rapid temperature changes cause surface moisture. For example, when a cold drink is outside in hot weather, condensation forms. The same occurs with polymers. Moving plastic from a cold, damp garage to a warm production area led to surface moisture, causing bubbles and inconsistencies in our 3D-printing filament.
Rapid changes in the Temperature lead to surface moisture.
If a cold drink placed outside in the hot summer, you will notice that water starts condensing on the surface.
This also is the case for polymers. We had many problems because we took plastic from the cold, damp garage to the warm production area. This resulted in a lot of surface moisture that produced bubbles and inconsistencies in our 3D-Printing Filament.
![Step last.jpg](./Step_last.jpg)
@ -118,48 +116,4 @@ Rapid temperature changes cause surface moisture. For example, when a cold drink
![Ste last 3.jpg](./Ste_last_3.jpg)
## Resources
### Tools
- Hygrometer (monitor humidity levels in drybox)
- Weighing scale (measure granulate weight pre/post drying)
- Oven (reactivate silica gel at 100°C/212°F [1])
### Software
No specific software required.
### Hardware
- **Dry box** ([construction guide](https://youtu.be/dkm_gXxX2pk): plastic container + window seals) [1]
- Silica gel (2 kg, reusable after baking) [1][2]
- Airtight plastic container (modified with window seals) [1]
- Microplastic bags (e.g., Guppyfriend brand) [1]
- Heating source (oven for silica reactivation) [1]
## References
## Articles
- [Drying Extrusion Granulation Production Line](https://www.yjing-extrusion.com/where-is-there-a-drying-extrusion-granulation-production-line.html)
- [How to DIY Filament Dryer](https://kingroon.com/blogs/3d-print-101/how-to-diy-filament-dryer)
## Books
- [Extrusion - 2nd Edition](https://shop.elsevier.com/books/exitrus-ion/giles-jr/978-1-4377-3481-2)
- [Extrusion: The Definitive Processing Guide and Handbook](https://bronze.ir/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/Extrusion-The-Definitive-Processing-Guide-and-Handbook.pdf)
## Papers
- [Moisture Effects in Common Solderable RF Connector Dielectrics](https://www.circuitinsight.com/pdf/Moisture_Effects_Common_Solderable_RF_Connector_Dielectrics_smta.pdf)
- [Real-time Monitoring of Drying Extruded Granules in Fluid-bed Dryer](https://pubs.rsc.org/en/content/articlelanding/2014/ra/c4ra06433j)
- [PET Extrusion Coating](https://www.tappi.org/content/events/07europlace/papers/07europl41.pdf)
## YouTube
- [Ultimate Dry Box for 3D Printer Filament](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=teQsyqK07QE)
- [DIY 3D Printing Filament Dry Box](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=txF2oQPIjb4)
- [Simple 3D Printer Filament Dry Box](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z3znzGC4HaE)
## Opensource Designs
- [Instructables Filament Dry Box](https://www.instructables.com/3D-Printer-Filament-Dry-Box/)
- [DIY Heated DryBox for 3D Printing](https://richrap.blogspot.com/2018/02/diy-heated-drybox-for-3d-printing.html)
- [Open Source Filament Dry Box Design](https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/Open_Source_Filament_Dry_Box)
## References

26
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"text": "### Types of Polymers and Moisture Considerations\n\nPolymers are classified as polar or nonpolar. Nonpolar materials, like HDPE and PP, typically do not require drying, as they repel water similarly to oil. In contrast, many commercial polymers with polar characteristics can absorb moisture from the air. Drying is often essential to prevent cosmetic defects, such as splay or silver streaking, and to maintain material integrity. Polar polymers may undergo hydrolysis if processed with excess moisture, reducing their strength. For more details, refer to the material overview below.",
"text": "There are two main types of polymers, polar and nonpolar. Nonpolar Materials usually don't need to be dried. Exposing nonpolar materials (HDPE/PP etc.) to water is like putting oil in water. Almost every other commercial polymer has some level of polarity and therefore can absorb a certain amount of moisture from the air. Many materials are dried only to optimize surface appearance, too much moisture can lead to cosmetic defects known as splay or silver streaking. Other polymers are damaged if they are processed with too much moisture. These materials chemically react with the moisture (hydrolysis), resulting in a reduction in material strength. Check out the material overview below.",
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"text": "### DIY Polymer Drying Methods\n\nSeveral DIY methods exist for drying polymers, including an oven, dehydrator, or vacuum dryer. Here, we focus on constructing a dry box with silica gel, as it offers optimal results while being cost-effective, simple, and energy-efficient. Using an oven can lead to overheating, causing issues. Household dehydrators are not suitable for reaching the low humidity levels necessary for effective polymer drying. Below is a temperature guide for different polymers. \n\n- **Oven:** Prone to overheating polymers.\n- **Dehydrator:** Inadequate for low humidity requirements.\n- **Vacuum Dryer:** Effective but more complex than a dry box. \n\n#### Temperature Guide (for reference):\n- [Include a table with temperature values for various polymers, converted from metric to imperial or vice versa where necessary.]",
"text": "There are several different DIY methods to dry polymeres; you can use an oven, a dehydrator or a vacuum dryer.\nBut In this How-To we will focus on a self-built drybox with silica gel, because this method delivers the best results while being cheap, easy and energy efficient. One of the problems we encountered with the oven is overheating the plastic, resulting in a big mess. We tried replacing the silica gel with a household dehydrator, but they are not designed to achieve this kind of low humidity levels needed to effectively dry plastic. We also included a temperature table for different polymers.\n",
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"text": "To create our drybox, use a plastic container and enhance it with window seals to ensure it is airtight. Glue the seals to the rim of the container.",
"text": "To make our drybox, we simply use a plastic box that we upgrade with some window seals to make it airtight. Simply, glue them to the rim of the box.",
"title": "Make and airtight plastic box"
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@ -101,11 +101,11 @@
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"text": "You might recognize silica gel from shoe packaging. These small bags absorb moisture to keep items dry. Silica gel is also effective with polymers. Place about 2 kilograms (4.4 pounds) in the plastic box. While there is no exact required amount, more gel means less frequent drying is needed."
"text": "You might already know silica gel from a shoebox for instance. It comes in small bags in order to keep the inside dry by absorbing any moisture. Silica gel works perfectly with polymers as well so just put around 2 kilograms in the plastic box. There is no particular amount you have to use, but the more you have in the box the less often you need to take them out and dry them.\n"
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"text": "To monitor humidity within the drybox, a hygrometer is useful. A transparent box allows for continuous observation of the drying process.",
"text": "A hygrometer comes in handy to check the humidity inside the drybox. It is convenient to use a transparent box so you can keep track of the drying process at all time.\n",
"images": [
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"alt": "Step 6 (2).jpg"
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"text": "Using a microplastic bag (e.g., one from Guppyfriend) inside the drybox conserves time and space by containing the materials while allowing humidity to escape.",
"text": "Using a microplastic bag (we use one from Guppyfriend) to place the material inside of the drybox will save you time and space. It keeps everything in place while the humidity can get out.\n",
"title": "Place granulate inside the box"
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"_animationKey": "uniqueko7p1",
"text": "The simplest way to measure moisture absorption is by weighing the granulate before and after drying. However, using hot air releases volatiles, which decreases weight but not accurately reflects moisture loss. Accurate moisture measurements require sensors placed in the drying hopper, which use real-time dielectric property measurements; however, these sensors are costly.",
"text": "The simplest method to measure how much moisture has been absorbed is weighing the granulate beforehand and afterwards. \nUnfortunately, if you are using hot air to dry granulat, volatiles are released from the sample, also reducing the weight. Therefore the weight loss does not exactly equal the loss of moisture so the measurement is imprecise. The professional approach involves making accurate moisture measurements in the drying hopper. This is possible using measurements of dielectric properties in real time. sensors are very expensive though.\n",
"images": [
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"_animationKey": "uniquezmow7q",
"text": "After some time, silica gel will reach its maximum water absorption capacity. Place it in the oven at 100°C (212°F) for one to two hours to restore its effectiveness.",
"text": "After a while, you will notice that the silica gel reaches its maximum capacity of water that it can absorb. Simply put it in the oven for one or two hours at about 100°C/212°F and it will be as good as new.\n",
"images": [
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"size": 275739,
@ -204,7 +204,7 @@
"title": "Renew the silica gel"
},
{
"text": "Rapid temperature changes cause surface moisture. For example, when a cold drink is outside in hot weather, condensation forms. The same occurs with polymers. Moving plastic from a cold, damp garage to a warm production area led to surface moisture, causing bubbles and inconsistencies in our 3D-printing filament.",
"text": "Rapid changes in the Temperature lead to surface moisture.\nIf a cold drink placed outside in the hot summer, you will notice that water starts condensing on the surface.\nThis also is the case for polymers. We had many problems because we took plastic from the cold, damp garage to the warm production area. This resulted in a lot of surface moisture that produced bubbles and inconsistencies in our 3D-Printing Filament.\n",
"title": "Bonus tip",
"_animationKey": "unique3hd523",
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@ -251,7 +251,7 @@
"_deleted": false,
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"_modified": "2024-01-06T08:22:06.532Z",
"description": "### Drying Granulate for Extrusion\n\nFor advanced materials, such as industrial waste, drying granulate is essential before extrusion. This step is crucial for producing high-quality products like 3D printing filament. \n\nFor a detailed guide, refer to our video: \n[How-To Video](https://youtu.be/dkm_gXxX2pk)",
"description": "When you want to make products using more advanced Materials (e.g. industrial waste), drying your granulate is a necessary step. \nWe will show you how to dry your granulate before extrusion cheaply and effectively, which is especially important if you want to make high quality products like 3d printing filament.\n\nYou can check out our How-To video here:\nhttps://youtu.be/dkm_gXxX2pk",
"category": {
"_modified": "2022-09-18T08:51:47.196Z",
"label": "Guides",
@ -466,9 +466,5 @@
"images": []
}
},
"content": "### Drying Granulate for Extrusion\n\nFor advanced materials, such as industrial waste, drying granulate is essential before extrusion. This step is crucial for producing high-quality products like 3D printing filament. \n\nFor a detailed guide, refer to our video: \n[How-To Video](https://youtu.be/dkm_gXxX2pk)\n\n\nUser Location: Darmstadt, Germany\n\n### Types of Polymers and Moisture Considerations\n\nPolymers are classified as polar or nonpolar. Nonpolar materials, like HDPE and PP, typically do not require drying, as they repel water similarly to oil. In contrast, many commercial polymers with polar characteristics can absorb moisture from the air. Drying is often essential to prevent cosmetic defects, such as splay or silver streaking, and to maintain material integrity. Polar polymers may undergo hydrolysis if processed with excess moisture, reducing their strength. For more details, refer to the material overview below.\n\n### DIY Polymer Drying Methods\n\nSeveral DIY methods exist for drying polymers, including an oven, dehydrator, or vacuum dryer. Here, we focus on constructing a dry box with silica gel, as it offers optimal results while being cost-effective, simple, and energy-efficient. Using an oven can lead to overheating, causing issues. Household dehydrators are not suitable for reaching the low humidity levels necessary for effective polymer drying. Below is a temperature guide for different polymers. \n\n- **Oven:** Prone to overheating polymers.\n- **Dehydrator:** Inadequate for low humidity requirements.\n- **Vacuum Dryer:** Effective but more complex than a dry box. \n\n#### Temperature Guide (for reference):\n- [Include a table with temperature values for various polymers, converted from metric to imperial or vice versa where necessary.]\n\nTo create our drybox, use a plastic container and enhance it with window seals to ensure it is airtight. Glue the seals to the rim of the container.\n\nYou might recognize silica gel from shoe packaging. These small bags absorb moisture to keep items dry. Silica gel is also effective with polymers. Place about 2 kilograms (4.4 pounds) in the plastic box. While there is no exact required amount, more gel means less frequent drying is needed.\n\nTo monitor humidity within the drybox, a hygrometer is useful. A transparent box allows for continuous observation of the drying process.\n\nUsing a microplastic bag (e.g., one from Guppyfriend) inside the drybox conserves time and space by containing the materials while allowing humidity to escape.\n\nThe simplest way to measure moisture absorption is by weighing the granulate before and after drying. However, using hot air releases volatiles, which decreases weight but not accurately reflects moisture loss. Accurate moisture measurements require sensors placed in the drying hopper, which use real-time dielectric property measurements; however, these sensors are costly.\n\nAfter some time, silica gel will reach its maximum water absorption capacity. Place it in the oven at 100°C (212°F) for one to two hours to restore its effectiveness.\n\nRapid temperature changes cause surface moisture. For example, when a cold drink is outside in hot weather, condensation forms. The same occurs with polymers. Moving plastic from a cold, damp garage to a warm production area led to surface moisture, causing bubbles and inconsistencies in our 3D-printing filament.",
"keywords": "drying granulate, extrusion process, polymer drying methods, DIY dry box, silica gel, polymer moisture control, vacuum dryer effectiveness, 3D printing filament quality, polar vs nonpolar polymers, moisture measurement techniques",
"resources": "### Tools\n\n- Hygrometer (monitor humidity levels in drybox)\n- Weighing scale (measure granulate weight pre/post drying)\n- Oven (reactivate silica gel at 100°C/212°F [1])\n\n### Software\n\nNo specific software required.\n\n### Hardware\n\n- **Dry box** ([construction guide](https://youtu.be/dkm_gXxX2pk): plastic container + window seals) [1]\n- Silica gel (2 kg, reusable after baking) [1][2]\n- Airtight plastic container (modified with window seals) [1]\n- Microplastic bags (e.g., Guppyfriend brand) [1]\n- Heating source (oven for silica reactivation) [1]",
"references": "## Articles\n\n- [Drying Extrusion Granulation Production Line](https://www.yjing-extrusion.com/where-is-there-a-drying-extrusion-granulation-production-line.html)\n- [How to DIY Filament Dryer](https://kingroon.com/blogs/3d-print-101/how-to-diy-filament-dryer)\n\n## Books\n\n- [Extrusion - 2nd Edition](https://shop.elsevier.com/books/exitrus-ion/giles-jr/978-1-4377-3481-2)\n- [Extrusion: The Definitive Processing Guide and Handbook](https://bronze.ir/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/Extrusion-The-Definitive-Processing-Guide-and-Handbook.pdf)\n\n## Papers\n\n- [Moisture Effects in Common Solderable RF Connector Dielectrics](https://www.circuitinsight.com/pdf/Moisture_Effects_Common_Solderable_RF_Connector_Dielectrics_smta.pdf)\n- [Real-time Monitoring of Drying Extruded Granules in Fluid-bed Dryer](https://pubs.rsc.org/en/content/articlelanding/2014/ra/c4ra06433j)\n- [PET Extrusion Coating](https://www.tappi.org/content/events/07europlace/papers/07europl41.pdf)\n\n## YouTube\n\n- [Ultimate Dry Box for 3D Printer Filament](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=teQsyqK07QE)\n- [DIY 3D Printing Filament Dry Box](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=txF2oQPIjb4)\n- [Simple 3D Printer Filament Dry Box](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z3znzGC4HaE)\n\n## Opensource Designs\n\n- [Instructables Filament Dry Box](https://www.instructables.com/3D-Printer-Filament-Dry-Box/)\n- [DIY Heated DryBox for 3D Printing](https://richrap.blogspot.com/2018/02/diy-heated-drybox-for-3d-printing.html)\n- [Open Source Filament Dry Box Design](https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/Open_Source_Filament_Dry_Box)",
"brief": "Dry granulate materials before extrusion to ensure high-quality 3D printing filament, preventing defects from moisture in polar polymers. Discover effective DIY methods."
"content": "When you want to make products using more advanced Materials (e.g. industrial waste), drying your granulate is a necessary step. \nWe will show you how to dry your granulate before extrusion cheaply and effectively, which is especially important if you want to make high quality products like 3d printing filament.\n\nYou can check out our How-To video here:\nhttps://youtu.be/dkm_gXxX2pk\n\n\nUser Location: Darmstadt, Germany\n\nThere are two main types of polymers, polar and nonpolar. Nonpolar Materials usually don't need to be dried. Exposing nonpolar materials (HDPE/PP etc.) to water is like putting oil in water. Almost every other commercial polymer has some level of polarity and therefore can absorb a certain amount of moisture from the air. Many materials are dried only to optimize surface appearance, too much moisture can lead to cosmetic defects known as splay or silver streaking. Other polymers are damaged if they are processed with too much moisture. These materials chemically react with the moisture (hydrolysis), resulting in a reduction in material strength. Check out the material overview below.\n\nThere are several different DIY methods to dry polymeres; you can use an oven, a dehydrator or a vacuum dryer.\nBut In this How-To we will focus on a self-built drybox with silica gel, because this method delivers the best results while being cheap, easy and energy efficient. One of the problems we encountered with the oven is overheating the plastic, resulting in a big mess. We tried replacing the silica gel with a household dehydrator, but they are not designed to achieve this kind of low humidity levels needed to effectively dry plastic. We also included a temperature table for different polymers.\n\n\nTo make our drybox, we simply use a plastic box that we upgrade with some window seals to make it airtight. Simply, glue them to the rim of the box.\n\nYou might already know silica gel from a shoebox for instance. It comes in small bags in order to keep the inside dry by absorbing any moisture. Silica gel works perfectly with polymers as well so just put around 2 kilograms in the plastic box. There is no particular amount you have to use, but the more you have in the box the less often you need to take them out and dry them.\n\n\nA hygrometer comes in handy to check the humidity inside the drybox. It is convenient to use a transparent box so you can keep track of the drying process at all time.\n\n\nUsing a microplastic bag (we use one from Guppyfriend) to place the material inside of the drybox will save you time and space. It keeps everything in place while the humidity can get out.\n\n\nThe simplest method to measure how much moisture has been absorbed is weighing the granulate beforehand and afterwards. \nUnfortunately, if you are using hot air to dry granulat, volatiles are released from the sample, also reducing the weight. Therefore the weight loss does not exactly equal the loss of moisture so the measurement is imprecise. The professional approach involves making accurate moisture measurements in the drying hopper. This is possible using measurements of dielectric properties in real time. sensors are very expensive though.\n\n\nAfter a while, you will notice that the silica gel reaches its maximum capacity of water that it can absorb. Simply put it in the oven for one or two hours at about 100°C/212°F and it will be as good as new.\n\n\nRapid changes in the Temperature lead to surface moisture.\nIf a cold drink placed outside in the hot summer, you will notice that water starts condensing on the surface.\nThis also is the case for polymers. We had many problems because we took plastic from the cold, damp garage to the warm production area. This resulted in a lot of surface moisture that produced bubbles and inconsistencies in our 3D-Printing Filament.\n"
}

89
howtos/easily-hands-free-connect-moulds-to-the-injector/README.md
View File

@ -1,57 +1,59 @@
---
title: Easily (hands-free) connect moulds to the injector
slug: easily-hands-free-connect-moulds-to-the-injector
description: ### Methods for Attaching Molds to Injectors
description: Screw-on moulds, clamping beds and other methods such as car jacks take time and more effort with your hands to connect moulds to the injector. This method using a motorcycle stand provides enough travel to clamp the mould against the injector and enables the power of your legs to be used keeping your hands free.
This method also enables heavier moulds or other accessories such as clamps to be lifted easily. Perhaps leading to reduced bolting for clamping the mould itself up!
Traditional methods like screw-on molds, clamping beds, and car jacks often require significant manual effort and time to attach molds to injectors. A motorcycle stand offers a more efficient solution, providing sufficient range to clamp the mold against the injector while enabling the use of leg strength, thus keeping hands free. This method facilitates the easy lifting of heavier molds and accessories such as clamps, potentially minimizing the need for extensive bolting during clamping.
This approach is compatible with conical injection nozzles and chamfered molds. The equipment referenced in this guide is from PlasticPreneur.
This method works for the conical style injection nozzles and chamfered style moulds. The machines we use are from PlasticPreneur in this guide.
tags: ["hack","product","untagged","injection"]
category: Guides
difficulty: Easy
time: < 1 hour
keywords: mold attachment methods, motorcycle stand for mold clamping, injector mold setup, conical injection nozzles, chamfered molds, PlasticPreneur equipment, DIY injection mold stand, wooden block elevation, tufftuff jack usage, ergonomic mold setup
keywords:
location: Lancaster, United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland (the)
---
# Easily (hands-free) connect moulds to the injector
![Easily (hands-free) connect moulds to the injector](cover_picture-17f79ec916d.png)
### Methods for Attaching Molds to Injectors
Screw-on moulds, clamping beds and other methods such as car jacks take time and more effort with your hands to connect moulds to the injector. This method using a motorcycle stand provides enough travel to clamp the mould against the injector and enables the power of your legs to be used keeping your hands free.
This method also enables heavier moulds or other accessories such as clamps to be lifted easily. Perhaps leading to reduced bolting for clamping the mould itself up!
Traditional methods like screw-on molds, clamping beds, and car jacks often require significant manual effort and time to attach molds to injectors. A motorcycle stand offers a more efficient solution, providing sufficient range to clamp the mold against the injector while enabling the use of leg strength, thus keeping hands free. This method facilitates the easy lifting of heavier molds and accessories such as clamps, potentially minimizing the need for extensive bolting during clamping.
This approach is compatible with conical injection nozzles and chamfered molds. The equipment referenced in this guide is from PlasticPreneur.
This method works for the conical style injection nozzles and chamfered style moulds. The machines we use are from PlasticPreneur in this guide.
User Location: Lancaster, United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland (the)
## Steps
### Step 1: One video to explain it all...
Refer to the attached video for a detailed explanation of the process and required components.
See attached a video explaining the process and parts required.
### Step 2: Find yourself a bike stand
We acquired our first stand from Facebook Marketplace. Consider checking bike workshops for old stands. Alternatively, search online for "motorcycle stand" or "dirtbike stand" to find one easily.
We found our first one locally on Facebook Marketplace, you could try workshops that work on bikes - they might have some old ones.
Otherwise, the internet is your friend and you can find them pretty easily by searching "motorcycle stand" or "dirtbike stand".
![WhatsApp Image 2022-03-11 at 16.44.20-17f79e7056b.jpeg](./WhatsApp_Image_2022-03-11_at_16.44.20-17f79e7056b.jpeg)
### Step 3: (if wall-mounted) Make it taller
Four pieces of 3x2 wood (7.6 cm x 5.1 cm) are used at each corner of the stand's flat plate, topped with an additional flat wood piece to elevate the mould bed. Metal or alternative shapes can be considered if preferred. The gap between the pillars serves as storage for height-raising blocks.
We used 4 pieces of 3x2 in each corner of the flat plate of the stand finished with a flat piece of wood on top to create a higher bed for the moulds to sit on. This could easily be made of metal and be differently shaped if required.
We find the gap in the middle of the pillars is useful for storing the 'height-raising blocks'.
If sufficient height is not present, wooden blocks can be added for elevation when using a floor-based injection moulder.
You might find you have enough height already or you can add wooden blocks to raise it up if required when using a floor-based injection moulder.
Alternatively, shorten the pillars and add a tufftuff jack on top, eliminating the need for variable thickness wooden blocks. The tufftuff jack, with a plate, adjusts the general working height, while a bike stand provides additional travel to align with the nozzle.
One modification to this design would be to make the pillars shorter and then add a tufftuff jack on top. This alleviates the need to use different thickness wooden blocks depending on what mould you are using as you could use the tufftuff jack (with a plate on top) to change the general height you want to work out, then use the bike stand to get the extra travel you need to interface with the nozzle.
![WhatsApp Image 2022-03-11 at 16.44.20 (3)-17f79e6f15c.jpeg](./WhatsApp_Image_2022-03-11_at_16.44.20_3-17f79e6f15c.jpeg)
### Step 4: Modify the lever system
Initially, the lever is set at a height that may be challenging for frequent use. While this position offers a good workout, we opted for an easier adjustment. By reversing the arm that attaches to the lever, we achieved better functionality.
We found that out of the box this lever is quite high for your leg to use it multiple times in the day. If you're looking for a good workout, perhaps keep it as is.
For us, we wanted something easier to work with all day and we found simply flipping the arm that slots on works brilliantly.
We added a new hole in the rod emerging from the base and corresponding holes in the arm. This allowed us to secure the arm with an M8 bolt, ensuring stability. An additional bolt was placed behind the arm to prevent excessive backward pivot, ensuring secure use.
We drilled an extra hole in the rod that comes out of the base, and corresponding holes in the arm that slots on. This way, we could put and M8 bolt through them and clamp it on.
The extra bolt behind the arm is to stop it pivoting back too far so you can always step on it confidently without it slipping away!
Feel free to design an alternative system that might offer improved ergonomics or aesthetics. Be inventive!
You could create a different system to this which would perhaps be more ergonomic or aesthetic, get creative!
![WhatsApp Image 2022-03-11 at 16.44.20-17f79e6b489.jpeg](./WhatsApp_Image_2022-03-11_at_16.44.20-17f79e6b489.jpeg)
@ -64,56 +66,7 @@ Feel free to design an alternative system that might offer improved ergonomics o
### Step 5: Watch the video
For a comprehensive explanation, please watch the video.
Please watch the video as everything is explained much better there!
## Resources
### Tools & Equipment
- ~~[Motorcycle stand](https://www.example.com/motorcycle-stand)~~ (sourced via Facebook Marketplace or "dirtbike stand" online searches)
- Wooden blocks (3x2 wood, 7.6 cm x 5.1 cm) for elevation
- Tufftuff jack with plate for height adjustment
- M8 bolts for securing modified components
- Clamping accessories (hand clamps, C-clamps)
### Hardware
- Conical injection nozzles (PlasticPreneur)
- Chamfered molds (PlasticPreneur)
- Metal plate for jack setup
- Height-raising wooden blocks (optional)
- Reinforced pillars with adjustable holes
### Software
- No specific software required
- Optional: CAD tools (e.g., FreeCAD, Fusion 360) for custom design iterations
## References
### References
#### Articles
- [Making a Plate From Recycled Plastic - Instructables](https://www.instructables.com/Making-a-Plate-From-Recycled-Plastic/)
- [Four Ways to Tackle Threaded Inserts for Plastics](https://www.ptonline.com/articles/four-ways-to-tackle-threaded-inserts-for-plastics)
- [Complete Guide to Plastic Injection Molding - Crescent Industries](https://www.crescentind.com/complete-guide-to-plastic-injection-molding)
- [Injection Molding Gains an Edge in Motorcycle Gas Tanks](https://www.ptonline.com/news/injection-molding-gains-an-edge-in-motorcycle-gas-tanks)
- [Injection Mold Components: Understanding The Structure](https://firstmold.com/guides/injection-mold-components/)
- [Injection Moulding Design Guide: Unlocking Key Insights with Geomiq](https://geomiq.com/injection-moulding-design-guide/)
#### YouTube
- [PLASTIC INJECTION MOLD SETUP - YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V9msuhMjfKY)
- [BUILD THIS INJECTION MOLD: THE DRAWINGS - YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=23Q-chqUHi8)
#### Manuals
- [Plastic Injection Machine - Wiki HappyLab](https://wiki.happylab.at/images/2/23/Plasticpreneur_Installation-and-User-Manual_Plastic-Injection-Machine_V1-11_2021.pdf)
#### Open-source Designs
- [FOSMC - Fictiv](https://www.fictiv.com/fosmc)
- [rusEFI](https://rusefi.com)
- [FOSMC – Build Your Own Open Source Motorcycle](https://blog.techdesign.com/fosmc-build-open-source-motorcycle/)
#### Papers
- [DESIGN AND FABRICATION OF AUTOMATIC MOTORCYCLE STAND](https://www.irjet.net/archives/V9/i3/IRJET-V9I3135.pdf)
## References

18
howtos/easily-hands-free-connect-moulds-to-the-injector/config.json
View File

@ -22,7 +22,7 @@
},
"title": "Easily (hands-free) connect moulds to the injector",
"_created": "2022-03-11T17:04:37.450Z",
"description": "### Methods for Attaching Molds to Injectors\n\nTraditional methods like screw-on molds, clamping beds, and car jacks often require significant manual effort and time to attach molds to injectors. A motorcycle stand offers a more efficient solution, providing sufficient range to clamp the mold against the injector while enabling the use of leg strength, thus keeping hands free. This method facilitates the easy lifting of heavier molds and accessories such as clamps, potentially minimizing the need for extensive bolting during clamping.\n\nThis approach is compatible with conical injection nozzles and chamfered molds. The equipment referenced in this guide is from PlasticPreneur.",
"description": "Screw-on moulds, clamping beds and other methods such as car jacks take time and more effort with your hands to connect moulds to the injector. This method using a motorcycle stand provides enough travel to clamp the mould against the injector and enables the power of your legs to be used keeping your hands free. \nThis method also enables heavier moulds or other accessories such as clamps to be lifted easily. Perhaps leading to reduced bolting for clamping the mould itself up!\n\nThis method works for the conical style injection nozzles and chamfered style moulds. The machines we use are from PlasticPreneur in this guide. ",
"moderation": "accepted",
"creatorCountry": "gb",
"total_views": 311,
@ -40,13 +40,13 @@
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"text": "Refer to the attached video for a detailed explanation of the process and required components.",
"text": "See attached a video explaining the process and parts required. ",
"title": "One video to explain it all...",
"images": []
},
{
"title": "Find yourself a bike stand",
"text": "We acquired our first stand from Facebook Marketplace. Consider checking bike workshops for old stands. Alternatively, search online for \"motorcycle stand\" or \"dirtbike stand\" to find one easily.",
"text": "We found our first one locally on Facebook Marketplace, you could try workshops that work on bikes - they might have some old ones. \nOtherwise, the internet is your friend and you can find them pretty easily by searching \"motorcycle stand\" or \"dirtbike stand\". ",
"images": [
{
"size": 89836,
@ -80,11 +80,11 @@
],
"title": "(if wall-mounted) Make it taller",
"_animationKey": "unique3",
"text": "Four pieces of 3x2 wood (7.6 cm x 5.1 cm) are used at each corner of the stand's flat plate, topped with an additional flat wood piece to elevate the mould bed. Metal or alternative shapes can be considered if preferred. The gap between the pillars serves as storage for height-raising blocks. \n\nIf sufficient height is not present, wooden blocks can be added for elevation when using a floor-based injection moulder. \n\nAlternatively, shorten the pillars and add a tufftuff jack on top, eliminating the need for variable thickness wooden blocks. The tufftuff jack, with a plate, adjusts the general working height, while a bike stand provides additional travel to align with the nozzle."
"text": "We used 4 pieces of 3x2 in each corner of the flat plate of the stand finished with a flat piece of wood on top to create a higher bed for the moulds to sit on. This could easily be made of metal and be differently shaped if required. \nWe find the gap in the middle of the pillars is useful for storing the 'height-raising blocks'. \n\nYou might find you have enough height already or you can add wooden blocks to raise it up if required when using a floor-based injection moulder.\n\nOne modification to this design would be to make the pillars shorter and then add a tufftuff jack on top. This alleviates the need to use different thickness wooden blocks depending on what mould you are using as you could use the tufftuff jack (with a plate on top) to change the general height you want to work out, then use the bike stand to get the extra travel you need to interface with the nozzle. "
},
{
"title": "Modify the lever system",
"text": "Initially, the lever is set at a height that may be challenging for frequent use. While this position offers a good workout, we opted for an easier adjustment. By reversing the arm that attaches to the lever, we achieved better functionality. \n\nWe added a new hole in the rod emerging from the base and corresponding holes in the arm. This allowed us to secure the arm with an M8 bolt, ensuring stability. An additional bolt was placed behind the arm to prevent excessive backward pivot, ensuring secure use.\n\nFeel free to design an alternative system that might offer improved ergonomics or aesthetics. Be inventive!",
"text": "We found that out of the box this lever is quite high for your leg to use it multiple times in the day. If you're looking for a good workout, perhaps keep it as is. \nFor us, we wanted something easier to work with all day and we found simply flipping the arm that slots on works brilliantly. \n\nWe drilled an extra hole in the rod that comes out of the base, and corresponding holes in the arm that slots on. This way, we could put and M8 bolt through them and clamp it on. \nThe extra bolt behind the arm is to stop it pivoting back too far so you can always step on it confidently without it slipping away!\n\nYou could create a different system to this which would perhaps be more ergonomic or aesthetic, get creative! ",
"_animationKey": "uniqueit6san",
"images": [
{
@ -128,7 +128,7 @@
{
"title": "Watch the video",
"images": [],
"text": "For a comprehensive explanation, please watch the video.",
"text": "Please watch the video as everything is explained much better there!",
"_animationKey": "unique0jav2i",
"videoUrl": "https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AYwYEBvijnc"
}
@ -348,9 +348,5 @@
"images": []
}
},
"content": "### Methods for Attaching Molds to Injectors\n\nTraditional methods like screw-on molds, clamping beds, and car jacks often require significant manual effort and time to attach molds to injectors. A motorcycle stand offers a more efficient solution, providing sufficient range to clamp the mold against the injector while enabling the use of leg strength, thus keeping hands free. This method facilitates the easy lifting of heavier molds and accessories such as clamps, potentially minimizing the need for extensive bolting during clamping.\n\nThis approach is compatible with conical injection nozzles and chamfered molds. The equipment referenced in this guide is from PlasticPreneur.\n\n\nUser Location: Lancaster, United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland (the)\n\nRefer to the attached video for a detailed explanation of the process and required components.\n\nWe acquired our first stand from Facebook Marketplace. Consider checking bike workshops for old stands. Alternatively, search online for \"motorcycle stand\" or \"dirtbike stand\" to find one easily.\n\nFour pieces of 3x2 wood (7.6 cm x 5.1 cm) are used at each corner of the stand's flat plate, topped with an additional flat wood piece to elevate the mould bed. Metal or alternative shapes can be considered if preferred. The gap between the pillars serves as storage for height-raising blocks. \n\nIf sufficient height is not present, wooden blocks can be added for elevation when using a floor-based injection moulder. \n\nAlternatively, shorten the pillars and add a tufftuff jack on top, eliminating the need for variable thickness wooden blocks. The tufftuff jack, with a plate, adjusts the general working height, while a bike stand provides additional travel to align with the nozzle.\n\nInitially, the lever is set at a height that may be challenging for frequent use. While this position offers a good workout, we opted for an easier adjustment. By reversing the arm that attaches to the lever, we achieved better functionality. \n\nWe added a new hole in the rod emerging from the base and corresponding holes in the arm. This allowed us to secure the arm with an M8 bolt, ensuring stability. An additional bolt was placed behind the arm to prevent excessive backward pivot, ensuring secure use.\n\nFeel free to design an alternative system that might offer improved ergonomics or aesthetics. Be inventive!\n\nFor a comprehensive explanation, please watch the video.",
"keywords": "mold attachment methods, motorcycle stand for mold clamping, injector mold setup, conical injection nozzles, chamfered molds, PlasticPreneur equipment, DIY injection mold stand, wooden block elevation, tufftuff jack usage, ergonomic mold setup",
"resources": "### Tools & Equipment\n\n- ~~[Motorcycle stand](https://www.example.com/motorcycle-stand)~~ (sourced via Facebook Marketplace or \"dirtbike stand\" online searches)\n- Wooden blocks (3x2 wood, 7.6 cm x 5.1 cm) for elevation\n- Tufftuff jack with plate for height adjustment\n- M8 bolts for securing modified components\n- Clamping accessories (hand clamps, C-clamps)\n\n### Hardware\n\n- Conical injection nozzles (PlasticPreneur)\n- Chamfered molds (PlasticPreneur)\n- Metal plate for jack setup\n- Height-raising wooden blocks (optional)\n- Reinforced pillars with adjustable holes\n\n### Software\n\n- No specific software required\n- Optional: CAD tools (e.g., FreeCAD, Fusion 360) for custom design iterations",
"references": "### References\n\n#### Articles\n\n- [Making a Plate From Recycled Plastic - Instructables](https://www.instructables.com/Making-a-Plate-From-Recycled-Plastic/)\n- [Four Ways to Tackle Threaded Inserts for Plastics](https://www.ptonline.com/articles/four-ways-to-tackle-threaded-inserts-for-plastics)\n- [Complete Guide to Plastic Injection Molding - Crescent Industries](https://www.crescentind.com/complete-guide-to-plastic-injection-molding)\n- [Injection Molding Gains an Edge in Motorcycle Gas Tanks](https://www.ptonline.com/news/injection-molding-gains-an-edge-in-motorcycle-gas-tanks)\n- [Injection Mold Components: Understanding The Structure](https://firstmold.com/guides/injection-mold-components/)\n- [Injection Moulding Design Guide: Unlocking Key Insights with Geomiq](https://geomiq.com/injection-moulding-design-guide/)\n\n#### YouTube\n\n- [PLASTIC INJECTION MOLD SETUP - YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V9msuhMjfKY)\n- [BUILD THIS INJECTION MOLD: THE DRAWINGS - YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=23Q-chqUHi8)\n\n#### Manuals\n\n- [Plastic Injection Machine - Wiki HappyLab](https://wiki.happylab.at/images/2/23/Plasticpreneur_Installation-and-User-Manual_Plastic-Injection-Machine_V1-11_2021.pdf)\n\n#### Open-source Designs\n\n- [FOSMC - Fictiv](https://www.fictiv.com/fosmc)\n- [rusEFI](https://rusefi.com)\n- [FOSMC – Build Your Own Open Source Motorcycle](https://blog.techdesign.com/fosmc-build-open-source-motorcycle/)\n\n#### Papers\n\n- [DESIGN AND FABRICATION OF AUTOMATIC MOTORCYCLE STAND](https://www.irjet.net/archives/V9/i3/IRJET-V9I3135.pdf)",
"brief": "Efficiently attach molds to injectors using a motorcycle stand, enhancing ease and reducing manual effort. Compatible with various molds and injection systems."
"content": "Screw-on moulds, clamping beds and other methods such as car jacks take time and more effort with your hands to connect moulds to the injector. This method using a motorcycle stand provides enough travel to clamp the mould against the injector and enables the power of your legs to be used keeping your hands free. \nThis method also enables heavier moulds or other accessories such as clamps to be lifted easily. Perhaps leading to reduced bolting for clamping the mould itself up!\n\nThis method works for the conical style injection nozzles and chamfered style moulds. The machines we use are from PlasticPreneur in this guide. \n\n\nUser Location: Lancaster, United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland (the)\n\nSee attached a video explaining the process and parts required. \n\nWe found our first one locally on Facebook Marketplace, you could try workshops that work on bikes - they might have some old ones. \nOtherwise, the internet is your friend and you can find them pretty easily by searching \"motorcycle stand\" or \"dirtbike stand\". \n\nWe used 4 pieces of 3x2 in each corner of the flat plate of the stand finished with a flat piece of wood on top to create a higher bed for the moulds to sit on. This could easily be made of metal and be differently shaped if required. \nWe find the gap in the middle of the pillars is useful for storing the 'height-raising blocks'. \n\nYou might find you have enough height already or you can add wooden blocks to raise it up if required when using a floor-based injection moulder.\n\nOne modification to this design would be to make the pillars shorter and then add a tufftuff jack on top. This alleviates the need to use different thickness wooden blocks depending on what mould you are using as you could use the tufftuff jack (with a plate on top) to change the general height you want to work out, then use the bike stand to get the extra travel you need to interface with the nozzle. \n\nWe found that out of the box this lever is quite high for your leg to use it multiple times in the day. If you're looking for a good workout, perhaps keep it as is. \nFor us, we wanted something easier to work with all day and we found simply flipping the arm that slots on works brilliantly. \n\nWe drilled an extra hole in the rod that comes out of the base, and corresponding holes in the arm that slots on. This way, we could put and M8 bolt through them and clamp it on. \nThe extra bolt behind the arm is to stop it pivoting back too far so you can always step on it confidently without it slipping away!\n\nYou could create a different system to this which would perhaps be more ergonomic or aesthetic, get creative! \n\nPlease watch the video as everything is explained much better there!"
}

143
howtos/el-tornillo-motor-injection-machine/README.md
View File

@ -1,42 +1,38 @@
---
title: El Tornillo Motor Injection Machine
slug: el-tornillo-motor-injection-machine
description: ### Using the Injection Machine
This injection machine uses a motor to reduce manual effort and increase pressure for creating detailed products.
description: This injection machine runs with a motor to save some labor and output more pressure to make more detailed products.
tags: ["HDPE","melting","injection","PS","LDPE","PP"]
category: Machines
difficulty: Hard
time: 3-4 weeks
keywords: injection machine, motor injection machine, plastic injection molding, injection molding Colombia, motorized injection machine, injection mold compatibility, plastic types PP HDPE LDPE PS, building injection machine, injection machine assembly, motor-driven injection molding
keywords:
location: Bogota, Colombia
---
# El Tornillo Motor Injection Machine
![El Tornillo Motor Injection Machine](IMG_5422-1879a27155c.jpg)
### Using the Injection Machine
This injection machine uses a motor to reduce manual effort and increase pressure for creating detailed products.
This injection machine runs with a motor to save some labor and output more pressure to make more detailed products.
User Location: Bogota, Colombia
## Steps
### Step 1: Machine description
**Machine Design:**
Machine design:
Motor Injection Machine
**Machine Size:**
Height: 76.77 inches (195 cm); Width: 19.69 inches (50 cm); Depth: 19.69 inches (50 cm)
Machine size:
Heigth: 195CM; Wide: 50CM; Large: 50CM
**Machine Cost:**
In Colombia, Bill of Material: COP $4,700,000
Machine cost:
In Colombia, Bill Of Material = COP$4,700,000
**Features:**
Equipped with a motor for pressure application, improving upon older hand-lever models.
What makes your machine different to others:
This machine has a motor that will apply the pressure (versus a hand powered lever on older versions). It can be considered an upgrade to [filtered] Basic Injection Machine, available on the academy.
**Compatibility:**
Suitable for injection molds.
Compatible with:
This machine is suitable for injection moulds.
**Compatible Plastic Types:**
Type of plastic:
PP, HDPE, LDPE, PS
@ -46,13 +42,13 @@ PP, HDPE, LDPE, PS
To build this machine, you will need:
- Turning (machining on a lathe)
- Milling (machining on a mill)
- General metalworking (cutting, drilling)
- Welding
- Advanced assembly work (requires specific tools, measurement instruments, and knowledge of tolerances for alignment and assembly)
- General electrical work (wiring safety switches, temperature controllers)
- Motor electrical work (wiring motors, contactors, overload protection)
-- Turning (machining on a lathe)
-- Milling (machining on a mill)
-- General metalworking (cutting, drilling)
-- Welding
-- Advanced assembly work (require specific tools, measurement instruments and tolerances knowledge to align and assemble)
-- General electrical work (wiring safety switch, temperature controllers…)
-- Motor electrical work (wiring motor, contactor, overload protection…)
![Screenshot 2023-04-19 at 10.24.12-1879a1e0b8f.png](./Screenshot_2023-04-19_at_10.24.12-1879a1e0b8f.png)
@ -65,93 +61,48 @@ To build this machine, you will need:
### Step 3: Build the machine!
Watch this video for instructions on building the machine:
Watch this video to find out how to build this machine!
0:00 Introduction
3:09 Motor Injection Machine Overview
3:36 Chapter I: Frame Construction
7:12 Chapter II: Mould Area Assembly
8:25 Chapter III: Piston System Installation
14:39 Chapter IV: Heating Barrel Setup
17:51 Chapter V: Electrical Wiring
18:56 Chapter VI: Motor Connection
20:10 Chapter VII: Final Assembly
0:00 Before you start
3:09 Motor Injection Machine intro
3:36 Chapter I: Build the frame
7:12 Chapter II: Build the mould area
8:25 Chapter III: Build the piston system
14:39 Chapter IV: Build the heating barrel
17:51 Chapter V: Electrical wiring
18:56 Chapter VI: Connect the motor
20:10 Chapter VII: Assembly
### Step 4: Inject!
How to Operate the Machine
1. Activate the machine and load the barrel with plastic.
2. For the initial injection, allow 25 minutes after activation and loading.
3. Position the mold on the jack surface and press it firmly against the nozzle.
4. Engage the motor to lower the piston, forcing the molten plastic into the mold until the belt slips in the pulley.
5. Deactivate the motor and maintain piston pressure for approximately 5 seconds.
6. Reverse the motor to raise the piston.
7. For continuous use, refill the barrel before detaching the mold from the nozzle.
8. Lower the jack to remove the mold.
9. Open the mold and extract the molded part.
10. Close the mold and repeat the process from step 3.
How to use the machine
1. Turn on the machine and fill the barrel with plastic.
2. For the first injection, wait 25 minutes since the machine was turned on and filled.
3. Place the mould over the jack surface and press it against the nozzle tightly.
4. Turn on the motor to move down the piston, pushing the molten plastic inside the mold until the belt starts slipping in the pulley.
5. Turn off the motor and wait around 5 seconds maintaining the piston pressure.
6. Then turn the motor backwards to move the piston up
7. For continuous injections refill the barrel before removing the mold from the nozzle
8. Remove the mold by lowering the jack
9. Open the mold and take out the injected part
10. Close the mold and repeat the process from step 3
Recommendations
Molds must feature a conical nozzle connection or require an adapter. The machine generates significant pressure, allowing for the injection of items with thin walls.
For this machine, you will need molds that have a connical nozzle connection or create an adapter to fit with you mold nozzle. This machine can create a lot of pressure so you will be able to inject products with very thin walls.
![WhatsApp Image 2023-04-14 at 9.05.51 AM-1879f335ab6.jpeg](./WhatsApp_Image_2023-04-14_at_9.05.51_AM-1879f335ab6.jpeg)
### Step 5: Buy on the Bazar
This guide outlines the process for constructing a Motor Injection Machine.
So this is how you make a Motor Injection Machine!
If you cannot replicate the machine or simply want to buy some of the other machines or moulds I create, make sure to visit my Bazar shop 🤑 !
For those unable to replicate the machine or interested in purchasing other machines or molds, please visit my shop.
![Screenshot 2023-04-19 at 10.20.30-1879a1a7e0e.png](./Screenshot_2023-04-19_at_10.20.30-1879a1a7e0e.png)
## Resources
### Tools
- Turning (machining on a lathe) – Chapter I (3:09)
- Milling (machining on a mill) – Chapter II (7:12)
- Welding equipment – Chapter I (3:09)
- Cutting/drilling tools (metal saw, drill press) – Chapter I (3:09)
- Measurement instruments (calipers, micrometers) – Chapter III (8:25)
### Hardware
- Motor for pressure application – Chapter VI (18:56)
- Safety switches – Chapter V (17:51)
- Temperature controllers – Chapter V (17:51)
- Contactors and overload protection – Chapter VI (18:56)
- Injection molds (PP, HDPE, LDPE, PS compatible) – Chapter II (7:12)
### Software
- None specified in the tutorial
This summary distills key requirements for constructing the injection machine, referencing timestamps from the instructional video.
## References
## Articles
- [Injection Molding Technology Overview | Xometry Pro](https://xometry.pro/en-tr/articles/injection-moulding-overview/) [1]
- [DIY Injection Molding: How to Mold Plastic Parts In-House - Formlabs](https://formlabs.com/blog/diy-injection-molding/) [4]
## Books
- [Injection Molding Reference Guide (4th EDITION)](https://www.keplers.com/book/9781466407824) [2]
- [Scientific Molding, Recommendations, and Best Practices](https://www.hudsonbooksellers.com/book/9781569906897) [7]
## Papers
- [Overview of Injection Molding Technology for Processing Polymers](https://www.espublisher.com/uploads/article_pdf/esmm5f713.pdf) [6]
- ~~~~[Open-source 3-D printable autoinjector: Design, testing, and ... - PLOS](https://journals.plos.org/plosone/article?id=10.1371%2Fjournal.pone.0288696)~~~~ [9]
## YouTube
- [Build an Injection Molding Machine From a Cheap Pneumatic Press](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_a7usMe_K38) [3]
- [Injection molding setup and run - YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cuF3gjvoSKU) [8]
## Opensource Designs
- [An Open-Source Framework for Xilinx FPGA Reliability Evaluation](https://osda.gitlab.io/19/3.2.pdf) [12]
- [Open-source 3-D printable autoinjector: Design, testing, and ... - PLOS](https://journals.plos.org/plosone/article?id=10.1371%2Fjournal.pone.0288696) [9]
## References

18
howtos/el-tornillo-motor-injection-machine/config.json
View File

@ -65,7 +65,7 @@
"files": [
null
],
"description": "### Using the Injection Machine\n\nThis injection machine uses a motor to reduce manual effort and increase pressure for creating detailed products.",
"description": "This injection machine runs with a motor to save some labor and output more pressure to make more detailed products.",
"mentions": [],
"moderatorFeedback": "",
"_created": "2023-10-20T20:49:05.886Z",
@ -99,7 +99,7 @@
"alt": "Drawings-230412-1879a1fd178.jpg"
}
],
"text": "**Machine Design:** \nMotor Injection Machine\n\n**Machine Size:** \nHeight: 76.77 inches (195 cm); Width: 19.69 inches (50 cm); Depth: 19.69 inches (50 cm)\n\n**Machine Cost:** \nIn Colombia, Bill of Material: COP $4,700,000\n\n**Features:** \nEquipped with a motor for pressure application, improving upon older hand-lever models.\n\n**Compatibility:** \nSuitable for injection molds.\n\n**Compatible Plastic Types:** \nPP, HDPE, LDPE, PS"
"text": "Machine design:\nMotor Injection Machine\n\nMachine size:\nHeigth: 195CM; Wide: 50CM; Large: 50CM\n\nMachine cost:\nIn Colombia, Bill Of Material = COP$4,700,000\n\nWhat makes your machine different to others: \nThis machine has a motor that will apply the pressure (versus a hand powered lever on older versions). It can be considered an upgrade to [filtered] Basic Injection Machine, available on the academy.\n\nCompatible with: \nThis machine is suitable for injection moulds.\n\nType of plastic: \nPP, HDPE, LDPE, PS"
},
{
"title": "Tools needed",
@ -142,17 +142,17 @@
}
],
"_animationKey": "unique3",
"text": "To build this machine, you will need:\n\n- Turning (machining on a lathe)\n- Milling (machining on a mill)\n- General metalworking (cutting, drilling)\n- Welding\n- Advanced assembly work (requires specific tools, measurement instruments, and knowledge of tolerances for alignment and assembly)\n- General electrical work (wiring safety switches, temperature controllers)\n- Motor electrical work (wiring motors, contactors, overload protection)"
"text": "To build this machine, you will need:\n\n-- Turning (machining on a lathe)\n-- Milling (machining on a mill)\n-- General metalworking (cutting, drilling)\n-- Welding\n-- Advanced assembly work (require specific tools, measurement instruments and tolerances knowledge to align and assemble)\n-- General electrical work (wiring safety switch, temperature controllers…)\n-- Motor electrical work (wiring motor, contactor, overload protection…)"
},
{
"_animationKey": "unique3ttjmm",
"videoUrl": "https://youtu.be/OOurvulD-pE",
"images": [],
"title": "Build the machine!",
"text": "Watch this video for instructions on building the machine:\n\n0:00 Introduction\n3:09 Motor Injection Machine Overview\n3:36 Chapter I: Frame Construction\n7:12 Chapter II: Mould Area Assembly\n8:25 Chapter III: Piston System Installation\n14:39 Chapter IV: Heating Barrel Setup\n17:51 Chapter V: Electrical Wiring\n18:56 Chapter VI: Motor Connection\n20:10 Chapter VII: Final Assembly"
"text": "Watch this video to find out how to build this machine!\n\n0:00 Before you start\n3:09 Motor Injection Machine intro\n3:36 Chapter I: Build the frame\n7:12 Chapter II: Build the mould area\n8:25 Chapter III: Build the piston system\n14:39 Chapter IV: Build the heating barrel\n17:51 Chapter V: Electrical wiring\n18:56 Chapter VI: Connect the motor\n20:10 Chapter VII: Assembly"
},
{
"text": "How to Operate the Machine\n\n1. Activate the machine and load the barrel with plastic.\n2. For the initial injection, allow 25 minutes after activation and loading.\n3. Position the mold on the jack surface and press it firmly against the nozzle.\n4. Engage the motor to lower the piston, forcing the molten plastic into the mold until the belt slips in the pulley.\n5. Deactivate the motor and maintain piston pressure for approximately 5 seconds.\n6. Reverse the motor to raise the piston.\n7. For continuous use, refill the barrel before detaching the mold from the nozzle.\n8. Lower the jack to remove the mold.\n9. Open the mold and extract the molded part.\n10. Close the mold and repeat the process from step 3.\n\nRecommendations\n\nMolds must feature a conical nozzle connection or require an adapter. The machine generates significant pressure, allowing for the injection of items with thin walls.",
"text": "How to use the machine\n1. Turn on the machine and fill the barrel with plastic.\n2. For the first injection, wait 25 minutes since the machine was turned on and filled.\n3. Place the mould over the jack surface and press it against the nozzle tightly.\n4. Turn on the motor to move down the piston, pushing the molten plastic inside the mold until the belt starts slipping in the pulley.\n5. Turn off the motor and wait around 5 seconds maintaining the piston pressure.\n6. Then turn the motor backwards to move the piston up\n7. For continuous injections refill the barrel before removing the mold from the nozzle\n8. Remove the mold by lowering the jack \n9. Open the mold and take out the injected part\n10. Close the mold and repeat the process from step 3\n\nRecommendations\nFor this machine, you will need molds that have a connical nozzle connection or create an adapter to fit with you mold nozzle. This machine can create a lot of pressure so you will be able to inject products with very thin walls.",
"title": "Inject!",
"_animationKey": "uniquerpgzq",
"images": [
@ -186,7 +186,7 @@
}
],
"title": "Buy on the Bazar",
"text": "This guide outlines the process for constructing a Motor Injection Machine.\n\nFor those unable to replicate the machine or interested in purchasing other machines or molds, please visit my shop.",
"text": "So this is how you make a Motor Injection Machine!\n\nIf you cannot replicate the machine or simply want to buy some of the other machines or moulds I create, make sure to visit my Bazar shop 🤑 !\n\n",
"_animationKey": "unique2gnw9l"
}
],
@ -363,9 +363,5 @@
"urls": []
}
},
"content": "### Using the Injection Machine\n\nThis injection machine uses a motor to reduce manual effort and increase pressure for creating detailed products.\n\n\nUser Location: Bogota, Colombia\n\n**Machine Design:** \nMotor Injection Machine\n\n**Machine Size:** \nHeight: 76.77 inches (195 cm); Width: 19.69 inches (50 cm); Depth: 19.69 inches (50 cm)\n\n**Machine Cost:** \nIn Colombia, Bill of Material: COP $4,700,000\n\n**Features:** \nEquipped with a motor for pressure application, improving upon older hand-lever models.\n\n**Compatibility:** \nSuitable for injection molds.\n\n**Compatible Plastic Types:** \nPP, HDPE, LDPE, PS\n\nTo build this machine, you will need:\n\n- Turning (machining on a lathe)\n- Milling (machining on a mill)\n- General metalworking (cutting, drilling)\n- Welding\n- Advanced assembly work (requires specific tools, measurement instruments, and knowledge of tolerances for alignment and assembly)\n- General electrical work (wiring safety switches, temperature controllers)\n- Motor electrical work (wiring motors, contactors, overload protection)\n\nWatch this video for instructions on building the machine:\n\n0:00 Introduction\n3:09 Motor Injection Machine Overview\n3:36 Chapter I: Frame Construction\n7:12 Chapter II: Mould Area Assembly\n8:25 Chapter III: Piston System Installation\n14:39 Chapter IV: Heating Barrel Setup\n17:51 Chapter V: Electrical Wiring\n18:56 Chapter VI: Motor Connection\n20:10 Chapter VII: Final Assembly\n\nHow to Operate the Machine\n\n1. Activate the machine and load the barrel with plastic.\n2. For the initial injection, allow 25 minutes after activation and loading.\n3. Position the mold on the jack surface and press it firmly against the nozzle.\n4. Engage the motor to lower the piston, forcing the molten plastic into the mold until the belt slips in the pulley.\n5. Deactivate the motor and maintain piston pressure for approximately 5 seconds.\n6. Reverse the motor to raise the piston.\n7. For continuous use, refill the barrel before detaching the mold from the nozzle.\n8. Lower the jack to remove the mold.\n9. Open the mold and extract the molded part.\n10. Close the mold and repeat the process from step 3.\n\nRecommendations\n\nMolds must feature a conical nozzle connection or require an adapter. The machine generates significant pressure, allowing for the injection of items with thin walls.\n\nThis guide outlines the process for constructing a Motor Injection Machine.\n\nFor those unable to replicate the machine or interested in purchasing other machines or molds, please visit my shop.",
"keywords": "injection machine, motor injection machine, plastic injection molding, injection molding Colombia, motorized injection machine, injection mold compatibility, plastic types PP HDPE LDPE PS, building injection machine, injection machine assembly, motor-driven injection molding",
"resources": "### Tools\n\n- Turning (machining on a lathe) – Chapter I (3:09)\n- Milling (machining on a mill) – Chapter II (7:12)\n- Welding equipment – Chapter I (3:09)\n- Cutting/drilling tools (metal saw, drill press) – Chapter I (3:09)\n- Measurement instruments (calipers, micrometers) – Chapter III (8:25)\n\n### Hardware\n\n- Motor for pressure application – Chapter VI (18:56)\n- Safety switches – Chapter V (17:51)\n- Temperature controllers – Chapter V (17:51)\n- Contactors and overload protection – Chapter VI (18:56)\n- Injection molds (PP, HDPE, LDPE, PS compatible) – Chapter II (7:12)\n\n### Software\n\n- None specified in the tutorial\n\nThis summary distills key requirements for constructing the injection machine, referencing timestamps from the instructional video.",
"references": "## Articles\n\n- [Injection Molding Technology Overview | Xometry Pro](https://xometry.pro/en-tr/articles/injection-moulding-overview/) [1]\n- [DIY Injection Molding: How to Mold Plastic Parts In-House - Formlabs](https://formlabs.com/blog/diy-injection-molding/) [4]\n\n## Books\n\n- [Injection Molding Reference Guide (4th EDITION)](https://www.keplers.com/book/9781466407824) [2]\n- [Scientific Molding, Recommendations, and Best Practices](https://www.hudsonbooksellers.com/book/9781569906897) [7]\n\n## Papers\n\n- [Overview of Injection Molding Technology for Processing Polymers](https://www.espublisher.com/uploads/article_pdf/esmm5f713.pdf) [6]\n- ~~~~[Open-source 3-D printable autoinjector: Design, testing, and ... - PLOS](https://journals.plos.org/plosone/article?id=10.1371%2Fjournal.pone.0288696)~~~~ [9]\n\n## YouTube\n\n- [Build an Injection Molding Machine From a Cheap Pneumatic Press](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_a7usMe_K38) [3]\n- [Injection molding setup and run - YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cuF3gjvoSKU) [8]\n\n## Opensource Designs\n\n- [An Open-Source Framework for Xilinx FPGA Reliability Evaluation](https://osda.gitlab.io/19/3.2.pdf) [12]\n- [Open-source 3-D printable autoinjector: Design, testing, and ... - PLOS](https://journals.plos.org/plosone/article?id=10.1371%2Fjournal.pone.0288696) [9]",
"brief": "Motor injection machine enhances precision with reduced manual effort and high-pressure output. Ideal for thin-wall items using PP, HDPE, LDPE, and PS plastics."
"content": "This injection machine runs with a motor to save some labor and output more pressure to make more detailed products.\n\n\nUser Location: Bogota, Colombia\n\nMachine design:\nMotor Injection Machine\n\nMachine size:\nHeigth: 195CM; Wide: 50CM; Large: 50CM\n\nMachine cost:\nIn Colombia, Bill Of Material = COP$4,700,000\n\nWhat makes your machine different to others: \nThis machine has a motor that will apply the pressure (versus a hand powered lever on older versions). It can be considered an upgrade to [filtered] Basic Injection Machine, available on the academy.\n\nCompatible with: \nThis machine is suitable for injection moulds.\n\nType of plastic: \nPP, HDPE, LDPE, PS\n\nTo build this machine, you will need:\n\n-- Turning (machining on a lathe)\n-- Milling (machining on a mill)\n-- General metalworking (cutting, drilling)\n-- Welding\n-- Advanced assembly work (require specific tools, measurement instruments and tolerances knowledge to align and assemble)\n-- General electrical work (wiring safety switch, temperature controllers…)\n-- Motor electrical work (wiring motor, contactor, overload protection…)\n\nWatch this video to find out how to build this machine!\n\n0:00 Before you start\n3:09 Motor Injection Machine intro\n3:36 Chapter I: Build the frame\n7:12 Chapter II: Build the mould area\n8:25 Chapter III: Build the piston system\n14:39 Chapter IV: Build the heating barrel\n17:51 Chapter V: Electrical wiring\n18:56 Chapter VI: Connect the motor\n20:10 Chapter VII: Assembly\n\nHow to use the machine\n1. Turn on the machine and fill the barrel with plastic.\n2. For the first injection, wait 25 minutes since the machine was turned on and filled.\n3. Place the mould over the jack surface and press it against the nozzle tightly.\n4. Turn on the motor to move down the piston, pushing the molten plastic inside the mold until the belt starts slipping in the pulley.\n5. Turn off the motor and wait around 5 seconds maintaining the piston pressure.\n6. Then turn the motor backwards to move the piston up\n7. For continuous injections refill the barrel before removing the mold from the nozzle\n8. Remove the mold by lowering the jack \n9. Open the mold and take out the injected part\n10. Close the mold and repeat the process from step 3\n\nRecommendations\nFor this machine, you will need molds that have a connical nozzle connection or create an adapter to fit with you mold nozzle. This machine can create a lot of pressure so you will be able to inject products with very thin walls.\n\nSo this is how you make a Motor Injection Machine!\n\nIf you cannot replicate the machine or simply want to buy some of the other machines or moulds I create, make sure to visit my Bazar shop 🤑 !\n\n"
}

67
howtos/extrude-a-bird-feeder/README.md
View File

@ -1,29 +1,29 @@
---
title: Extrude a Bird Feeder
slug: extrude-a-bird-feeder
description: Bird Feeder Made from Recycled Plastic using an Extruder
description: Bird feeder made with recycled plastic and Precious Plastic extruder.
For detailed instructions, visit our blog and view the video:
[Link to Blog](https://menorplastic.com/disenamos-el-mejor-comedero-para-pajaros-con-plastico-reciclado/)
You can visit our blog and watch the video:
https://menorplastic.com/disenamos-el-mejor-comedero-para-pajaros-con-plastico-reciclado/
tags: ["PP","HDPE","extrusion","product"]
category: Products
difficulty: Easy
time: < 1 week
keywords: bird feeder, recycled plastic bird feeder, extruder bird feeder, eco-friendly bird feeder, how to make bird feeder, DIY bird feeder, HDPE bird feeder, sustainable bird feeder, bird feeder tutorial, bird feeder Spain
keywords:
location: San Javier, Spain
---
# Extrude a Bird Feeder
![Extrude a Bird Feeder](WhatsApp_Image_2020-04-04_at_16.50.08_1.jpeg)
Bird Feeder Made from Recycled Plastic using an Extruder
Bird feeder made with recycled plastic and Precious Plastic extruder.
For detailed instructions, visit our blog and view the video:
[Link to Blog](https://menorplastic.com/disenamos-el-mejor-comedero-para-pajaros-con-plastico-reciclado/)
You can visit our blog and watch the video:
https://menorplastic.com/disenamos-el-mejor-comedero-para-pajaros-con-plastico-reciclado/
User Location: San Javier, Spain
## Steps
### Step 1: Select plastics
Crush the plastic intended for use (preferably HDPE) and fill the extruder.
Crush the plastic that we are going to use (preferably HDPE) and fill extruder.
![WhatsApp Image 2020-04-04 at 16.50.09 (4).jpeg](./WhatsApp_Image_2020-04-04_at_16.50.09_4.jpeg)
@ -33,21 +33,21 @@ Crush the plastic intended for use (preferably HDPE) and fill the extruder.
### Step 2: Pick some cardboard
Use cardboard tubes from toilet paper rolls or similar items. Place some fabric inside.
Use cardboard of toilet paper or similar. Put some cloth inside.
![WhatsApp Image 2020-04-04 at 16.50.09 (2).jpeg](./WhatsApp_Image_2020-04-04_at_16.50.09_2.jpeg)
### Step 3: Rolling plastic
Gradually wrap the plastic around the cardboard, altering the direction for added strength.
We will slowly roll the plastic on the cardboard. Change direction to make it resistant.
![enrollando.png](./enrollando.png)
### Step 4: Demolding
We let it cool and then slowly remove the cardboard.
We let it cool and take out the cardboard slowly.
![enfriando.png](./enfriando.png)
@ -57,7 +57,7 @@ We let it cool and then slowly remove the cardboard.
### Step 5: Feed it
Your bird feeder is now complete and ready for use.
Done! You have a bird feeder ready to use.
![final-individual.png](./final-individual.png)
@ -69,45 +69,4 @@ Your bird feeder is now complete and ready for use.
![20200403_115558A.jpg](./20200403_115558A.jpg)
## Resources
The tutorial outlines a process for creating a bird feeder from recycled HDPE plastic using basic fabrication techniques. Below is a breakdown of the required components:
### Hardware
- **Plastic extruder** ([Blog link](https://menorplastic.com/disenamos-el-mejor-comedero-para-pajaros-con-plastico-reciclado/))
- **HDPE plastic crusher/shredder** (for recycling plastic)
- **Cardboard tubes** (e.g., toilet paper rolls)
- **Fabric strips** (to line the tubes during molding)
- **Cooling area** (ambient air for solidification)
### Tools
- No specialized tools mentioned beyond the extruder and crusher.
### Software
- Not required for this project.
The process emphasizes repurposing household items like cardboard tubes and fabric, paired with recycling equipment.
## References
### Articles
- ~~[Recycled Plastic Hopper Feeder](https://www.wildaboutbirds.com/recycled-plastic-hopper-feeder)~~
- [Sustainable Bird Feeders Offer Solutions](https://birdschoice.com/blogs/news/sustainable-bird-feeders-offer-solutions-to-attracting-birds-and-minimizing-plastic-waste)
### Tutorials/Guides
- [DIY Plastic Bottle Bird Feeder](https://www.instructables.com/DIY-Plastic-Bottle-Bird-Feeder/)
- [Acrylic Bird Feeder Guide](https://plasticsheetsshop.co.uk/diy/how-to-build-a-bird-feeder/)
- [Low Cost Plastic Extruder for Filament Production](https://www.instructables.com/Low-Cost-Plastic-Extruder-for-Fillament-Production/)
### Papers
- [RepRapable Recyclebot: Open source 3-D printable extruder](https://digitalcommons.mtu.edu/materials_fp/177/)
### YouTube
- [How to make an upcycled bird feeder from a plastic bottle | WWT](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ben9e5p5y8s)
### Open-source Designs
- [RepRapable Recyclebot: Open source 3-D printable extruder](https://reprap.org/wiki/RepRapable_Recyclebot:_Open_source_3-D_printable_extruder_for_converting_plastic_to_3-D_printing_filament)
## References

18
howtos/extrude-a-bird-feeder/config.json
View File

@ -42,14 +42,14 @@
],
"_deleted": false,
"difficulty_level": "Easy",
"description": "Bird Feeder Made from Recycled Plastic using an Extruder\n\nFor detailed instructions, visit our blog and view the video: \n[Link to Blog](https://menorplastic.com/disenamos-el-mejor-comedero-para-pajaros-con-plastico-reciclado/)",
"description": "Bird feeder made with recycled plastic and Precious Plastic extruder.\n\nYou can visit our blog and watch the video:\nhttps://menorplastic.com/disenamos-el-mejor-comedero-para-pajaros-con-plastico-reciclado/",
"comments": [],
"_created": "2020-04-04T15:32:38.132Z",
"_modified": "2023-11-06T06:45:17.650Z",
"steps": [
{
"title": " Select plastics",
"text": "Crush the plastic intended for use (preferably HDPE) and fill the extruder.",
"text": "Crush the plastic that we are going to use (preferably HDPE) and fill extruder.",
"images": [
{
"name": "WhatsApp Image 2020-04-04 at 16.50.09 (4).jpeg",
@ -79,7 +79,7 @@
"_animationKey": "unique1"
},
{
"text": "Use cardboard tubes from toilet paper rolls or similar items. Place some fabric inside.",
"text": "Use cardboard of toilet paper or similar. Put some cloth inside.",
"_animationKey": "unique2",
"title": "Pick some cardboard",
"images": [
@ -112,13 +112,13 @@
"alt": "enrollando.png"
}
],
"text": "Gradually wrap the plastic around the cardboard, altering the direction for added strength.",
"text": "We will slowly roll the plastic on the cardboard. Change direction to make it resistant.",
"title": "Rolling plastic",
"_animationKey": "unique3"
},
{
"title": "Demolding",
"text": "We let it cool and then slowly remove the cardboard.",
"text": "We let it cool and take out the cardboard slowly.",
"_animationKey": "unique6ho0xw",
"images": [
{
@ -188,7 +188,7 @@
],
"_animationKey": "unique4u8ta",
"title": "Feed it",
"text": "Your bird feeder is now complete and ready for use."
"text": "Done! You have a bird feeder ready to use."
}
],
"user": {
@ -341,9 +341,5 @@
"urls": []
}
},
"content": "Bird Feeder Made from Recycled Plastic using an Extruder\n\nFor detailed instructions, visit our blog and view the video: \n[Link to Blog](https://menorplastic.com/disenamos-el-mejor-comedero-para-pajaros-con-plastico-reciclado/)\n\n\nUser Location: San Javier, Spain\n\nCrush the plastic intended for use (preferably HDPE) and fill the extruder.\n\nUse cardboard tubes from toilet paper rolls or similar items. Place some fabric inside.\n\nGradually wrap the plastic around the cardboard, altering the direction for added strength.\n\nWe let it cool and then slowly remove the cardboard.\n\nYour bird feeder is now complete and ready for use.",
"keywords": "bird feeder, recycled plastic bird feeder, extruder bird feeder, eco-friendly bird feeder, how to make bird feeder, DIY bird feeder, HDPE bird feeder, sustainable bird feeder, bird feeder tutorial, bird feeder Spain",
"resources": "The tutorial outlines a process for creating a bird feeder from recycled HDPE plastic using basic fabrication techniques. Below is a breakdown of the required components:\n\n### Hardware\n\n- **Plastic extruder** ([Blog link](https://menorplastic.com/disenamos-el-mejor-comedero-para-pajaros-con-plastico-reciclado/))\n- **HDPE plastic crusher/shredder** (for recycling plastic)\n- **Cardboard tubes** (e.g., toilet paper rolls)\n- **Fabric strips** (to line the tubes during molding)\n- **Cooling area** (ambient air for solidification)\n\n### Tools\n\n- No specialized tools mentioned beyond the extruder and crusher.\n\n### Software\n\n- Not required for this project.\n\nThe process emphasizes repurposing household items like cardboard tubes and fabric, paired with recycling equipment.",
"references": "### Articles\n\n- ~~[Recycled Plastic Hopper Feeder](https://www.wildaboutbirds.com/recycled-plastic-hopper-feeder)~~\n- [Sustainable Bird Feeders Offer Solutions](https://birdschoice.com/blogs/news/sustainable-bird-feeders-offer-solutions-to-attracting-birds-and-minimizing-plastic-waste)\n\n### Tutorials/Guides\n\n- [DIY Plastic Bottle Bird Feeder](https://www.instructables.com/DIY-Plastic-Bottle-Bird-Feeder/)\n- [Acrylic Bird Feeder Guide](https://plasticsheetsshop.co.uk/diy/how-to-build-a-bird-feeder/)\n- [Low Cost Plastic Extruder for Filament Production](https://www.instructables.com/Low-Cost-Plastic-Extruder-for-Fillament-Production/)\n\n### Papers\n\n- [RepRapable Recyclebot: Open source 3-D printable extruder](https://digitalcommons.mtu.edu/materials_fp/177/)\n\n### YouTube\n\n- [How to make an upcycled bird feeder from a plastic bottle | WWT](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ben9e5p5y8s)\n\n### Open-source Designs\n\n- [RepRapable Recyclebot: Open source 3-D printable extruder](https://reprap.org/wiki/RepRapable_Recyclebot:_Open_source_3-D_printable_extruder_for_converting_plastic_to_3-D_printing_filament)",
"brief": "Create an eco-friendly bird feeder from recycled plastic using an extruder. Simple steps and materials make this project easy and sustainable."
"content": "Bird feeder made with recycled plastic and Precious Plastic extruder.\n\nYou can visit our blog and watch the video:\nhttps://menorplastic.com/disenamos-el-mejor-comedero-para-pajaros-con-plastico-reciclado/\n\n\nUser Location: San Javier, Spain\n\nCrush the plastic that we are going to use (preferably HDPE) and fill extruder.\n\nUse cardboard of toilet paper or similar. Put some cloth inside.\n\nWe will slowly roll the plastic on the cardboard. Change direction to make it resistant.\n\nWe let it cool and take out the cardboard slowly.\n\nDone! You have a bird feeder ready to use."
}

100
howtos/faceshield-with-extrusion-die-and-a4-clear-sheet/README.md
View File

@ -1,27 +1,30 @@
---
title: Faceshield with extrusion die and A4 clear sheet
slug: faceshield-with-extrusion-die-and-a4-clear-sheet
description: This guide demonstrates how to make a face shield using fundamental materials and an extrusion machine. Face shields are in short supply in many regions impacted by COVID-19, and as many as 22 may be required per patient. A fast, DIY approach to production is essential. Note that face shields are meant to supplement goggles and masks, aiming to reduce viral exposure.
description: We make a face shield from basic elements and the extrusion machine. Face shields are critically lacking in many countries affected by COVID-19. You need up to 22 per patient. We need a DIY way of making these and making these fast..
Remember face shields are only a complement to googles and masks and are meant to reduce the viral charge.
tags: ["HDPE","extrusion"]
category: Products
difficulty: Medium
time: < 1 week
keywords: face shield DIY, COVID-19 protection, extrusion machine face shield, homemade face shield, face shield assembly, HDPE face shield, nozzle design for face shield, plastic sheet shield, elastic band attachment, emergency face protection
keywords:
location: Wick, United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland (the)
---
# Faceshield with extrusion die and A4 clear sheet
![Faceshield with extrusion die and A4 clear sheet](IMG_20200404_095358-COLLAGE.jpg)
This guide demonstrates how to make a face shield using fundamental materials and an extrusion machine. Face shields are in short supply in many regions impacted by COVID-19, and as many as 22 may be required per patient. A fast, DIY approach to production is essential. Note that face shields are meant to supplement goggles and masks, aiming to reduce viral exposure.
We make a face shield from basic elements and the extrusion machine. Face shields are critically lacking in many countries affected by COVID-19. You need up to 22 per patient. We need a DIY way of making these and making these fast..
Remember face shields are only a complement to googles and masks and are meant to reduce the viral charge.
User Location: Wick, United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland (the)
## Steps
### Step 1: Make a nozzle to attach to the extruder.
### Instructions for Nozzle Design
The nozzle should feature a large entry point with a tapering end. Incorporate bars to partially cool the material and guide it towards the exit. To activate, apply heat using a hot air gun. The external plates should be spaced 0.04 inches (1 mm) apart. Operating without a nozzle increases difficulty in controlling the thickness and elasticity of the resulting band.
[Watch the tutorial here.](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BTiQqPFE9vs)
The nozzle needs to have a relatively large entry and a tapering end.
The best is to have some bars to cool down a bit the plastic and funnel it towards the exit.
To activate the nozzle we heat it up with hot air gun
The outside plates are only 1mm apart
You can also do it without nozzle but it is even more complicated to control the thickness and elasticity of the future band
<a class="text-orange-600 underline" href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BTiQqPFE9vs" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">youtube.com: youtube.com/watch?v=BTiQqPFE9vs</a>
![IMG_20200328_142311.jpg](./IMG_20200328_142311.jpg)
@ -31,7 +34,13 @@ The nozzle should feature a large entry point with a tapering end. Incorporate b
### Step 2: Extrude the stripe
This part requires care to ensure the plastic is extracted evenly, maintaining consistent thickness and flow. Operate the motor at the slowest speed. Variations in thickness and cooling rates may cause twisting. Heat it with a hot air gun and use a metal mangle to straighten it, though the strip may remain slightly concave, which does not affect the design. Based on the Badger shield specifications, the optimal head contact is 13 inches (33 cm). Cut accordingly. We used HDPE, commonly sourced and easy to melt, from locally recovered ocean plastic.
This is a delicate part and needs improvement as you need to pull the plastic out so that the thickness and flow is even. Make your motor rotate at the slowest speed possible.
Because of changes in the thickness and rate of cooling your stripe might twist
We heat it up back with the hot air gun and pass it inside our metal mangle. This will straighten the band. Don#t expect miracles, you will keep the concave shape. Although in the end it makes no difference with our design
Based on the work on the Badger shield
<a class="text-orange-600 underline" href="https://www.delve.com/assets/documents/OPEN-SOURCE-FACE-SHIELD-DRAWING-v1.PDF" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">delve.com: delve.com/assets/documents/OPEN-SOURCE-FACE-SHIELD-DRAWING-v1.PDF</a>
We can see that ideally the contact with the head should be 13"/ 33 cm. Cut to length
Here we have used HDPE from ocean plastic we regularly recover on the local beaches. We recommend HDPE as it is easier to source and also low temperature to melt.
![IMG_20200328_152146.jpg](./IMG_20200328_152146.jpg)
@ -41,7 +50,10 @@ This part requires care to ensure the plastic is extracted evenly, maintaining c
### Step 3: Punch holes for the attachment
The ideal attachment is a clothing elastic band. In its absence, use rope as shown in an example from a tutorial. To facilitate attachment without knots, punch several holes. A 10 mm (0.4 in) square wood chisel is suitable. Create three pairs of holes and one set of three holes on one end, or reduce to two pairs if using rope.
The best for the attachment is an elastic band for clothes but we didn't have any so made with a rope like in the example of <a class="text-orange-600 underline" href="https://menorplastic.com/tutorial-para-fabricarte-tu-protector-facial-casero/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">menorplastic.com: menorplastic.com/tutorial-para-fabricarte-tu-protector-facial-casero</a>
however to avoid making knots and for an easy attachment you can simply punch a set of holes
A square wood chisel size 10 is perfect for that.
You have to make 3 sets of 2 holes and one set of 3 holes at one end (could be two if you use rope)
![IMG_20200328_155038.jpg](./IMG_20200328_155038.jpg)
@ -54,7 +66,10 @@ The ideal attachment is a clothing elastic band. In its absence, use rope as sho
### Step 4: lace the plastic band
Arrange components according to the drawing for optimal comfort. The two-hole design enables quick adjustment for any head size. The third hole provides a secure latch for the elastic band. For easier adjustment, use a knot as shown in the third illustration.
Follow the right order for comfort, according to drawing
The 2-hole design allows to tighten at any size of head quickly.
The third hole design is to pass the elastic band in a very secure latch.
You can also make a similar knot as in the third figure for easier adjustment.
![IMG_20200328_161519.jpg](./IMG_20200328_161519.jpg)
@ -67,19 +82,15 @@ Arrange components according to the drawing for optimal comfort. The two-hole de
### Step 5: Staple the screen
### Instructions for Assembling a Screen Attachment
Try to center the screen with your attachment then staple from one end.
3 staples suffice one on each end and one in the middle, going progressively from one side to the other.
Keep the staples open until the screen is really tight on the plastic stripe you extruded. You can repunch the screen to tighten if needed.
The plastic sheets can be sourced from overhead or like here from a lamination machine where we stuck two ends together.
1. Center the screen with your attachment and begin stapling at one end. Three staples are sufficient: one at each end and one in the middle, applied progressively from one side to the other.
2. Ensure staples remain open until the screen is pulled tightly against the extruded plastic strip. If necessary, repunch the screen to achieve the desired tension.
The shield is only to be used in extreme cases where no other alternatives are possible. However it takes on most of the designs of approved PPE with a minimum of resource
3. Plastic sheets can be obtained from overhead projectors or lamination machines, where two ends can be adhered together.
### Guidelines for Shield Use
The shield should only be employed in urgent situations where no alternatives exist. It incorporates fundamental designs of certified personal protective equipment while utilizing minimal resources.
For further information and updates, please visit the following link: [plasticatbay.org: plasticatbay.org/2020/03/29/plasticbay-faceshield-design](https://www.plasticatbay.org/2020/03/29/plasticbay-faceshield-design)
You can get more details and updates if you follow this link. We cannot update both websites at the same times at the moment. Sorry for the inconvenience
<a class="text-orange-600 underline" href="https://www.plasticatbay.org/2020/03/29/plasticbay-faceshield-design" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">plasticatbay.org: plasticatbay.org/2020/03/29/plasticbay-faceshield-design</a>
![2020-03-28-164551.jpg](./2020-03-28-164551.jpg)
@ -91,47 +102,4 @@ For further information and updates, please visit the following link: [plasticat
![2020-03-28-164612.jpg](./2020-03-28-164612.jpg)
## Resources
### Hardware
- Extrusion machine with adjustable speed motor [video guide](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BTiQqPFE9vs)
- Custom nozzle (1 mm spaced plates, cooling bars for material guidance)
- Metal mangle for plastic straightening
### Tools
- Hot air gun (plastic heating/activation)
- 10 mm square wood chisel (hole punching)
- Stapler (screen attachment)
### Materials
- HDPE plastic (recovered ocean plastic, meltable)
- Overhead projector/lamination machine plastic sheets ~~[design specs](https://www.plasticatbay.org/2020/03/29/plasticbay-faceshield-design)~~
- Elastic bands or rope (head attachment)
- Staples (for securing screens)
### Software
- None required
## References
## Articles
- [Face Shield Assembly and Production - DFab](https://dfab.uw.edu/covid-19-fabrication/faceshield-assembly-and-production/)
- [Prusa Research Face Shield Design - Core77](https://www.core77.com/posts/96169/Thanks-to-Prusa-Research-You-Can-3D-Print-and-Donate-Face-Shields-for-Healthcare-Workers)
- [DIY Face Shield from Soda Bottles - Jewish Journal](https://jewishjournal.com/culture/home/318908/make-a-diy-face-shield-out-of-plastic-soda-bottles/)
- [COVID-19 Face Shield Guide - Instructables](https://www.instructables.com/COVID-19-Coronavirus-Face-Shield/)
- ~~[PlasticatBay Face Shield Design](https://www.plasticatbay.org/2020/03/29/plasticbay-faceshield-design)~~
## YouTube
- [Face Shield Design Tutorial - YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BYPWB5-auQE)
- [Nozzle Activation Tutorial - YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BTiQqPFE9vs)
## Opensource Designs
- [Adafruit Open Source Shield Guide (PDF)](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/downloads/pdf/open-source-face-shield-designs.pdf)
- ~~[Prusa Face Shield STL Files - Printables](https://www.printables.com/model/25857-prusa-face-shield)~~
## Other Resources
- [Stack Exchange 3D Printing Discussion](https://huggingface.co/datasets/HuggingFaceH4/stack-exchange-preferences/viewer/default/train)
## References

18
howtos/faceshield-with-extrusion-die-and-a4-clear-sheet/config.json
View File

@ -8,7 +8,7 @@
"sigolene"
],
"slug": "faceshield-with-extrusion-die-and-a4-clear-sheet",
"description": "This guide demonstrates how to make a face shield using fundamental materials and an extrusion machine. Face shields are in short supply in many regions impacted by COVID-19, and as many as 22 may be required per patient. A fast, DIY approach to production is essential. Note that face shields are meant to supplement goggles and masks, aiming to reduce viral exposure.",
"description": "We make a face shield from basic elements and the extrusion machine. Face shields are critically lacking in many countries affected by COVID-19. You need up to 22 per patient. We need a DIY way of making these and making these fast..\nRemember face shields are only a complement to googles and masks and are meant to reduce the viral charge.",
"_deleted": false,
"title": "Faceshield with extrusion die and A4 clear sheet",
"category": {
@ -67,12 +67,12 @@
}
],
"title": "Make a nozzle to attach to the extruder.",
"text": "### Instructions for Nozzle Design\n\nThe nozzle should feature a large entry point with a tapering end. Incorporate bars to partially cool the material and guide it towards the exit. To activate, apply heat using a hot air gun. The external plates should be spaced 0.04 inches (1 mm) apart. Operating without a nozzle increases difficulty in controlling the thickness and elasticity of the resulting band.\n\n[Watch the tutorial here.](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BTiQqPFE9vs)",
"text": "The nozzle needs to have a relatively large entry and a tapering end.\nThe best is to have some bars to cool down a bit the plastic and funnel it towards the exit.\nTo activate the nozzle we heat it up with hot air gun\nThe outside plates are only 1mm apart \nYou can also do it without nozzle but it is even more complicated to control the thickness and elasticity of the future band\n<a class=\"text-orange-600 underline\" href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BTiQqPFE9vs\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">youtube.com: youtube.com/watch?v=BTiQqPFE9vs</a>",
"_animationKey": "unique1"
},
{
"title": "Extrude the stripe",
"text": "This part requires care to ensure the plastic is extracted evenly, maintaining consistent thickness and flow. Operate the motor at the slowest speed. Variations in thickness and cooling rates may cause twisting. Heat it with a hot air gun and use a metal mangle to straighten it, though the strip may remain slightly concave, which does not affect the design. Based on the Badger shield specifications, the optimal head contact is 13 inches (33 cm). Cut accordingly. We used HDPE, commonly sourced and easy to melt, from locally recovered ocean plastic.",
"text": "This is a delicate part and needs improvement as you need to pull the plastic out so that the thickness and flow is even. Make your motor rotate at the slowest speed possible.\nBecause of changes in the thickness and rate of cooling your stripe might twist\nWe heat it up back with the hot air gun and pass it inside our metal mangle. This will straighten the band. Don#t expect miracles, you will keep the concave shape. Although in the end it makes no difference with our design\nBased on the work on the Badger shield\n<a class=\"text-orange-600 underline\" href=\"https://www.delve.com/assets/documents/OPEN-SOURCE-FACE-SHIELD-DRAWING-v1.PDF\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">delve.com: delve.com/assets/documents/OPEN-SOURCE-FACE-SHIELD-DRAWING-v1.PDF</a>\nWe can see that ideally the contact with the head should be 13\"/ 33 cm. Cut to length\nHere we have used HDPE from ocean plastic we regularly recover on the local beaches. We recommend HDPE as it is easier to source and also low temperature to melt.",
"caption": "",
"_animationKey": "unique2",
"images": [
@ -143,11 +143,11 @@
"alt": "punchstripe.png"
}
],
"text": "The ideal attachment is a clothing elastic band. In its absence, use rope as shown in an example from a tutorial. To facilitate attachment without knots, punch several holes. A 10 mm (0.4 in) square wood chisel is suitable. Create three pairs of holes and one set of three holes on one end, or reduce to two pairs if using rope.",
"text": "The best for the attachment is an elastic band for clothes but we didn't have any so made with a rope like in the example of <a class=\"text-orange-600 underline\" href=\"https://menorplastic.com/tutorial-para-fabricarte-tu-protector-facial-casero/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">menorplastic.com: menorplastic.com/tutorial-para-fabricarte-tu-protector-facial-casero</a>\nhowever to avoid making knots and for an easy attachment you can simply punch a set of holes \nA square wood chisel size 10 is perfect for that.\nYou have to make 3 sets of 2 holes and one set of 3 holes at one end (could be two if you use rope)",
"title": "Punch holes for the attachment"
},
{
"text": "Arrange components according to the drawing for optimal comfort. The two-hole design enables quick adjustment for any head size. The third hole provides a secure latch for the elastic band. For easier adjustment, use a knot as shown in the third illustration.",
"text": "Follow the right order for comfort, according to drawing\nThe 2-hole design allows to tighten at any size of head quickly.\nThe third hole design is to pass the elastic band in a very secure latch.\nYou can also make a similar knot as in the third figure for easier adjustment.",
"title": "lace the plastic band",
"_animationKey": "uniquer89agb",
"images": [
@ -230,7 +230,7 @@
}
],
"title": "Staple the screen",
"text": "### Instructions for Assembling a Screen Attachment\n\n1. Center the screen with your attachment and begin stapling at one end. Three staples are sufficient: one at each end and one in the middle, applied progressively from one side to the other.\n \n2. Ensure staples remain open until the screen is pulled tightly against the extruded plastic strip. If necessary, repunch the screen to achieve the desired tension.\n\n3. Plastic sheets can be obtained from overhead projectors or lamination machines, where two ends can be adhered together.\n\n### Guidelines for Shield Use\n\nThe shield should only be employed in urgent situations where no alternatives exist. It incorporates fundamental designs of certified personal protective equipment while utilizing minimal resources.\n\nFor further information and updates, please visit the following link: [plasticatbay.org: plasticatbay.org/2020/03/29/plasticbay-faceshield-design](https://www.plasticatbay.org/2020/03/29/plasticbay-faceshield-design)"
"text": "Try to center the screen with your attachment then staple from one end.\n3 staples suffice one on each end and one in the middle, going progressively from one side to the other.\nKeep the staples open until the screen is really tight on the plastic stripe you extruded. You can repunch the screen to tighten if needed.\nThe plastic sheets can be sourced from overhead or like here from a lamination machine where we stuck two ends together.\n\nThe shield is only to be used in extreme cases where no other alternatives are possible. However it takes on most of the designs of approved PPE with a minimum of resource\n\nYou can get more details and updates if you follow this link. We cannot update both websites at the same times at the moment. Sorry for the inconvenience\n<a class=\"text-orange-600 underline\" href=\"https://www.plasticatbay.org/2020/03/29/plasticbay-faceshield-design\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">plasticatbay.org: plasticatbay.org/2020/03/29/plasticbay-faceshield-design</a>"
}
],
"_modified": "2023-09-10T11:04:12.863Z",
@ -364,9 +364,5 @@
"urls": []
}
},
"content": "This guide demonstrates how to make a face shield using fundamental materials and an extrusion machine. Face shields are in short supply in many regions impacted by COVID-19, and as many as 22 may be required per patient. A fast, DIY approach to production is essential. Note that face shields are meant to supplement goggles and masks, aiming to reduce viral exposure.\n\n\nUser Location: Wick, United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland (the)\n\n### Instructions for Nozzle Design\n\nThe nozzle should feature a large entry point with a tapering end. Incorporate bars to partially cool the material and guide it towards the exit. To activate, apply heat using a hot air gun. The external plates should be spaced 0.04 inches (1 mm) apart. Operating without a nozzle increases difficulty in controlling the thickness and elasticity of the resulting band.\n\n[Watch the tutorial here.](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BTiQqPFE9vs)\n\nThis part requires care to ensure the plastic is extracted evenly, maintaining consistent thickness and flow. Operate the motor at the slowest speed. Variations in thickness and cooling rates may cause twisting. Heat it with a hot air gun and use a metal mangle to straighten it, though the strip may remain slightly concave, which does not affect the design. Based on the Badger shield specifications, the optimal head contact is 13 inches (33 cm). Cut accordingly. We used HDPE, commonly sourced and easy to melt, from locally recovered ocean plastic.\n\nThe ideal attachment is a clothing elastic band. In its absence, use rope as shown in an example from a tutorial. To facilitate attachment without knots, punch several holes. A 10 mm (0.4 in) square wood chisel is suitable. Create three pairs of holes and one set of three holes on one end, or reduce to two pairs if using rope.\n\nArrange components according to the drawing for optimal comfort. The two-hole design enables quick adjustment for any head size. The third hole provides a secure latch for the elastic band. For easier adjustment, use a knot as shown in the third illustration.\n\n### Instructions for Assembling a Screen Attachment\n\n1. Center the screen with your attachment and begin stapling at one end. Three staples are sufficient: one at each end and one in the middle, applied progressively from one side to the other.\n \n2. Ensure staples remain open until the screen is pulled tightly against the extruded plastic strip. If necessary, repunch the screen to achieve the desired tension.\n\n3. Plastic sheets can be obtained from overhead projectors or lamination machines, where two ends can be adhered together.\n\n### Guidelines for Shield Use\n\nThe shield should only be employed in urgent situations where no alternatives exist. It incorporates fundamental designs of certified personal protective equipment while utilizing minimal resources.\n\nFor further information and updates, please visit the following link: ~~[plasticatbay.org: plasticatbay.org/2020/03/29/plasticbay-faceshield-design](https://www.plasticatbay.org/2020/03/29/plasticbay-faceshield-design)~~",
"keywords": "face shield DIY, COVID-19 protection, extrusion machine face shield, homemade face shield, face shield assembly, HDPE face shield, nozzle design for face shield, plastic sheet shield, elastic band attachment, emergency face protection",
"resources": "### Hardware\n\n- Extrusion machine with adjustable speed motor [video guide](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BTiQqPFE9vs)\n- Custom nozzle (1 mm spaced plates, cooling bars for material guidance)\n- Metal mangle for plastic straightening\n\n### Tools\n\n- Hot air gun (plastic heating/activation)\n- 10 mm square wood chisel (hole punching)\n- Stapler (screen attachment)\n\n### Materials\n\n- HDPE plastic (recovered ocean plastic, meltable)\n- Overhead projector/lamination machine plastic sheets ~~[design specs](https://www.plasticatbay.org/2020/03/29/plasticbay-faceshield-design)~~\n- Elastic bands or rope (head attachment)\n- Staples (for securing screens)\n\n### Software\n\n- None required",
"references": "## Articles\n\n- [Face Shield Assembly and Production - DFab](https://dfab.uw.edu/covid-19-fabrication/faceshield-assembly-and-production/)\n- [Prusa Research Face Shield Design - Core77](https://www.core77.com/posts/96169/Thanks-to-Prusa-Research-You-Can-3D-Print-and-Donate-Face-Shields-for-Healthcare-Workers)\n- [DIY Face Shield from Soda Bottles - Jewish Journal](https://jewishjournal.com/culture/home/318908/make-a-diy-face-shield-out-of-plastic-soda-bottles/)\n- [COVID-19 Face Shield Guide - Instructables](https://www.instructables.com/COVID-19-Coronavirus-Face-Shield/)\n- ~~[PlasticatBay Face Shield Design](https://www.plasticatbay.org/2020/03/29/plasticbay-faceshield-design)~~\n\n## YouTube\n\n- [Face Shield Design Tutorial - YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BYPWB5-auQE)\n- [Nozzle Activation Tutorial - YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BTiQqPFE9vs)\n\n## Opensource Designs\n\n- [Adafruit Open Source Shield Guide (PDF)](https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/downloads/pdf/open-source-face-shield-designs.pdf)\n- ~~[Prusa Face Shield STL Files - Printables](https://www.printables.com/model/25857-prusa-face-shield)~~\n\n## Other Resources\n\n- [Stack Exchange 3D Printing Discussion](https://huggingface.co/datasets/HuggingFaceH4/stack-exchange-preferences/viewer/default/train)",
"brief": "DIY face shield guide: Learn to create effective protection using minimal materials and an extrusion machine for regions facing COVID-19 equipment shortages."
"content": "We make a face shield from basic elements and the extrusion machine. Face shields are critically lacking in many countries affected by COVID-19. You need up to 22 per patient. We need a DIY way of making these and making these fast..\nRemember face shields are only a complement to googles and masks and are meant to reduce the viral charge.\n\n\nUser Location: Wick, United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland (the)\n\nThe nozzle needs to have a relatively large entry and a tapering end.\nThe best is to have some bars to cool down a bit the plastic and funnel it towards the exit.\nTo activate the nozzle we heat it up with hot air gun\nThe outside plates are only 1mm apart \nYou can also do it without nozzle but it is even more complicated to control the thickness and elasticity of the future band\n<a class=\"text-orange-600 underline\" href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BTiQqPFE9vs\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">youtube.com: youtube.com/watch?v=BTiQqPFE9vs</a>\n\nThis is a delicate part and needs improvement as you need to pull the plastic out so that the thickness and flow is even. Make your motor rotate at the slowest speed possible.\nBecause of changes in the thickness and rate of cooling your stripe might twist\nWe heat it up back with the hot air gun and pass it inside our metal mangle. This will straighten the band. Don#t expect miracles, you will keep the concave shape. Although in the end it makes no difference with our design\nBased on the work on the Badger shield\n<a class=\"text-orange-600 underline\" href=\"https://www.delve.com/assets/documents/OPEN-SOURCE-FACE-SHIELD-DRAWING-v1.PDF\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">delve.com: delve.com/assets/documents/OPEN-SOURCE-FACE-SHIELD-DRAWING-v1.PDF</a>\nWe can see that ideally the contact with the head should be 13\"/ 33 cm. Cut to length\nHere we have used HDPE from ocean plastic we regularly recover on the local beaches. We recommend HDPE as it is easier to source and also low temperature to melt.\n\nThe best for the attachment is an elastic band for clothes but we didn't have any so made with a rope like in the example of <a class=\"text-orange-600 underline\" href=\"https://menorplastic.com/tutorial-para-fabricarte-tu-protector-facial-casero/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">menorplastic.com: menorplastic.com/tutorial-para-fabricarte-tu-protector-facial-casero</a>\nhowever to avoid making knots and for an easy attachment you can simply punch a set of holes \nA square wood chisel size 10 is perfect for that.\nYou have to make 3 sets of 2 holes and one set of 3 holes at one end (could be two if you use rope)\n\nFollow the right order for comfort, according to drawing\nThe 2-hole design allows to tighten at any size of head quickly.\nThe third hole design is to pass the elastic band in a very secure latch.\nYou can also make a similar knot as in the third figure for easier adjustment.\n\nTry to center the screen with your attachment then staple from one end.\n3 staples suffice one on each end and one in the middle, going progressively from one side to the other.\nKeep the staples open until the screen is really tight on the plastic stripe you extruded. You can repunch the screen to tighten if needed.\nThe plastic sheets can be sourced from overhead or like here from a lamination machine where we stuck two ends together.\n\nThe shield is only to be used in extreme cases where no other alternatives are possible. However it takes on most of the designs of approved PPE with a minimum of resource\n\nYou can get more details and updates if you follow this link. We cannot update both websites at the same times at the moment. Sorry for the inconvenience\n<a class=\"text-orange-600 underline\" href=\"https://www.plasticatbay.org/2020/03/29/plasticbay-faceshield-design\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">plasticatbay.org: plasticatbay.org/2020/03/29/plasticbay-faceshield-design</a>"
}

96
howtos/handling-molds-easily/README.md
View File

@ -1,112 +1,90 @@
---
title: Handling molds easily
slug: handling-molds-easily
description: This tutorial explains how to use a winch to handle molds efficiently. This straightforward modification allows for precise and straight movement, requiring only one person.
description: In this tutorial, we will explain how to facilitate the handling of the molds, using a winch to pull them.
This modification, relatively simple to carry out allows :
- an accurate and straight move
- only one people
tags: ["mould","sheetpress"]
category: Guides
difficulty: Medium
time: < 1 week
keywords: winch tutorial, mold handling, wall-mounted winch, cold press equipment, mold transfer technique, sheet metal resizing, steel cable buckle, metal bar notches, friction reduction, precise mold movement
keywords:
location: Eurre, France
---
# Handling molds easily
![Handling molds easily](intro_handling-molds_easily2.png)
This tutorial explains how to use a winch to handle molds efficiently. This straightforward modification allows for precise and straight movement, requiring only one person.
In this tutorial, we will explain how to facilitate the handling of the molds, using a winch to pull them.
This modification, relatively simple to carry out allows :
- an accurate and straight move
- only one people
User Location: Eurre, France
## Steps
### Step 1: 1 - Setting the winch
The manual winch (Einhell TC-WI500) is wall-mounted 11.8 inches (30 cm) above the preparation table, behind the Coldpress. Note the alignment of the three stations and that both the preparation table and Coldpress are equipped with wheels and brakes.
The manual winch (Einhell TC-WI500) has been wall mounted behind the Coldpress, 30cm above the prepairing table.
Please notice the alignment of our 3 stations, and that the prepairing table and the Coldpress are equiped with wheels and brakes.
![Capture d’écran 2021-10-21 à 13.04.40.png](./Capture_decran_2021-10-21_a_13.04.40.png)
### Step 2: 2- Connecting the winch
We resized the sheet metal to 120x125 cm (47.24x49.21 inches) for the hanging system.
We resized the sheet metal to 120x125 cm to host the hanging system.
1. Holes were drilled in the sheet metal for a steel cable buckle.
1- We drilled the sheets metal to host a buckle made with a steel cable
2- The cable tip of the winch has also been buckled
3- Notches were engraved in a metal bar, to match with the 3 buckled cables.
2. The winch cable tip was also buckled.
3. Notches were engraved in a metal bar to align with the three buckled cables.
![Capture d’écran 2021-10-21 à 13.05.19.png](./Capture_decran_2021-10-21_a_13.05.19.png)
### Step 3: 3- Handling (1)
1. Transferring the Mold to the Sheet Press
1- Moving the mold from the preparation table to the sheetpress
Unroll the winch from the wall to the preparation table, threading it through the cold press and the sheet press. Use a metal bar to attach the winch's buckles to the metal sheet.
Unroll the winch from the wall unto the preparation table, passing through the coldpress and the sheetpress. Use the metal bar to connect the buckles of the winch and the metal sheet ones.
Move the preparation table beside the sheet press.
Make the preparation table roll next to the sheetpress
Wind the winch to pull the mold in the sheetpress.
Wind the winch to position the mold in the sheet press.
![Capture d’écran 2021-10-21 à 13.05.40.png](./Capture_decran_2021-10-21_a_13.05.40.png)
### Step 4: 3- Handling (2)
2. Transferring the Mold:
2- Moving the mold from the sheetpress to the coldpress :
As soon as the heating cycle is over, make the coldpress roll next to the sheetpress, then wind the winch again to unload the mold onto the coldpress.
After completing the heating cycle, move the cold press beside the sheet press and use the winch to transfer the mold onto the cold press.
![Capture d’écran 2021-10-21 à 13.06.00.png](./Capture_decran_2021-10-21_a_13.06.00.png)
### Step 5: 4- Tips and tricks
To prevent friction and ease mold transfer:
To avoid rubbing and to facilitate the mold transferring :
the preparation table has been coated with a polypropylene plate (instead of wood).
When loading the mold between 2 tables, we suggest to raise the 1st table 2 cm higher than the second.
keep the stations aligned with the winch cable to avoid rotating the mold when pulling.
- A polypropylene plate is used on the preparation table.
- When placing the mold between two tables, elevate the first table by 0.8 inches (2 cm) above the second.
- Ensure stations align with the winch cable to prevent mold rotation during pulling.
![Capture d’écran 2021-10-21 à 13.06.17.png](./Capture_decran_2021-10-21_a_13.06.17.png)
## Resources
Here's an organized breakdown of the key components used in the mold-handling system:
### Tools
- [Einhell TC-WI500 manual winch](https://www.amazon.fr/s?k=Einhell+TC-WI500) (wall-mounted for cable control)
- Electric drill (for creating holes in sheet metal)
- Metal engraving tool (to carve alignment notches in bars)
### Hardware
- Preparation table (mobile with wheels/brakes)
- Cold press machine (mobile with wheels/brakes)
- Custom-cut sheet metal (120x125 cm resized panel)
- [Steel cable buckles](https://www.amazon.fr/s?k=steel+cable+buckle) (for winch-cable attachment)
- Metal bar with alignment notches (ensures straight cable positioning during pulls)
No specific software was required for this mechanical setup.
## References
## References
### Articles
- Handling molds easily - [filtered] Academy
- [How To Build A Winch Plate: A Comprehensive DIY Guide](https://offroadpull.com/winch/accessories/mounting-plate/build/)
### Youtube
- [How To Install A Badland ZXR 2500 Winch & Winch Mounting Plate](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FdQmq8X7P00)
### Opensource Designs
- [Opensource electric winch - SkyPuff (Paragliding Forum)](https://www.paraglidingforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=99218)
### Technical Manuals
- [FITTING AND OPERATING GUIDE 12V / 24V DC ELECTRIC WINCH (PDF)](https://cdn.manomano.com/files/pdf/41029331.pdf)
### Product Specifications
- [Einhell TC-WI 500 Manual Cable Winch - Einhell Service](https://www.einhell-service.com/en_GB/2260160-tc-wi-500.html)
- [Einhell 2260160 TC-WI 500 Manual Cable Winch - Toolnation](https://www.toolnation.com/einhell-2260160-tc-wi-500-manual-cable-winch-500-kg.html)
## References

18
howtos/handling-molds-easily/config.json
View File

@ -5,7 +5,7 @@
"_id": "fYPVLWAwgRcQduWr4Mxm",
"total_views": 286,
"creatorCountry": "fr",
"description": "This tutorial explains how to use a winch to handle molds efficiently. This straightforward modification allows for precise and straight movement, requiring only one person.",
"description": "In this tutorial, we will explain how to facilitate the handling of the molds, using a winch to pull them.\nThis modification, relatively simple to carry out allows :\n- an accurate and straight move\n- only one people\n",
"_deleted": false,
"votedUsefulBy": [
"bresiana",
@ -51,7 +51,7 @@
{
"title": "1 - Setting the winch",
"_animationKey": "unique1",
"text": "The manual winch (Einhell TC-WI500) is wall-mounted 11.8 inches (30 cm) above the preparation table, behind the Coldpress. Note the alignment of the three stations and that both the preparation table and Coldpress are equipped with wheels and brakes.",
"text": "The manual winch (Einhell TC-WI500) has been wall mounted behind the Coldpress, 30cm above the prepairing table.\nPlease notice the alignment of our 3 stations, and that the prepairing table and the Coldpress are equiped with wheels and brakes.\n\n",
"images": [
{
"type": "image/jpeg",
@ -84,7 +84,7 @@
],
"title": "2- Connecting the winch ",
"_animationKey": "unique2",
"text": "We resized the sheet metal to 120x125 cm (47.24x49.21 inches) for the hanging system.\n\n1. Holes were drilled in the sheet metal for a steel cable buckle.\n\n2. The winch cable tip was also buckled.\n\n3. Notches were engraved in a metal bar to align with the three buckled cables."
"text": "We resized the sheet metal to 120x125 cm to host the hanging system.\n\n1- We drilled the sheets metal to host a buckle made with a steel cable\n\n2- The cable tip of the winch has also been buckled\n\n3- Notches were engraved in a metal bar, to match with the 3 buckled cables.\n\n"
},
{
"title": "3- Handling (1)",
@ -103,7 +103,7 @@
}
],
"_animationKey": "unique3",
"text": "1. Transferring the Mold to the Sheet Press\n\nUnroll the winch from the wall to the preparation table, threading it through the cold press and the sheet press. Use a metal bar to attach the winch's buckles to the metal sheet.\n\nMove the preparation table beside the sheet press.\n\nWind the winch to position the mold in the sheet press."
"text": "1- Moving the mold from the preparation table to the sheetpress\n\nUnroll the winch from the wall unto the preparation table, passing through the coldpress and the sheetpress. Use the metal bar to connect the buckles of the winch and the metal sheet ones.\n\nMake the preparation table roll next to the sheetpress\n\nWind the winch to pull the mold in the sheetpress.\n"
},
{
"images": [
@ -122,7 +122,7 @@
],
"title": "3- Handling (2)",
"_animationKey": "uniquemnpjfm",
"text": "2. Transferring the Mold:\n\nAfter completing the heating cycle, move the cold press beside the sheet press and use the winch to transfer the mold onto the cold press."
"text": "2- Moving the mold from the sheetpress to the coldpress :\n\nAs soon as the heating cycle is over, make the coldpress roll next to the sheetpress, then wind the winch again to unload the mold onto the coldpress.\n"
},
{
"title": "4- Tips and tricks",
@ -141,7 +141,7 @@
"alt": "Capture d’écran 2021-10-21 à 13.06.17.png"
}
],
"text": "To prevent friction and ease mold transfer:\n\n- A polypropylene plate is used on the preparation table.\n- When placing the mold between two tables, elevate the first table by 0.8 inches (2 cm) above the second.\n- Ensure stations align with the winch cable to prevent mold rotation during pulling."
"text": "To avoid rubbing and to facilitate the mold transferring :\n\nthe preparation table has been coated with a polypropylene plate (instead of wood).\n\nWhen loading the mold between 2 tables, we suggest to raise the 1st table 2 cm higher than the second.\n\nkeep the stations aligned with the winch cable to avoid rotating the mold when pulling.\n"
}
],
"_created": "2021-07-12T14:32:51.002Z",
@ -329,9 +329,5 @@
"urls": []
}
},
"content": "This tutorial explains how to use a winch to handle molds efficiently. This straightforward modification allows for precise and straight movement, requiring only one person.\n\n\nUser Location: Eurre, France\n\nThe manual winch (Einhell TC-WI500) is wall-mounted 11.8 inches (30 cm) above the preparation table, behind the Coldpress. Note the alignment of the three stations and that both the preparation table and Coldpress are equipped with wheels and brakes.\n\nWe resized the sheet metal to 120x125 cm (47.24x49.21 inches) for the hanging system.\n\n1. Holes were drilled in the sheet metal for a steel cable buckle.\n\n2. The winch cable tip was also buckled.\n\n3. Notches were engraved in a metal bar to align with the three buckled cables.\n\n1. Transferring the Mold to the Sheet Press\n\nUnroll the winch from the wall to the preparation table, threading it through the cold press and the sheet press. Use a metal bar to attach the winch's buckles to the metal sheet.\n\nMove the preparation table beside the sheet press.\n\nWind the winch to position the mold in the sheet press.\n\n2. Transferring the Mold:\n\nAfter completing the heating cycle, move the cold press beside the sheet press and use the winch to transfer the mold onto the cold press.\n\nTo prevent friction and ease mold transfer:\n\n- A polypropylene plate is used on the preparation table.\n- When placing the mold between two tables, elevate the first table by 0.8 inches (2 cm) above the second.\n- Ensure stations align with the winch cable to prevent mold rotation during pulling.",
"keywords": "winch tutorial, mold handling, wall-mounted winch, cold press equipment, mold transfer technique, sheet metal resizing, steel cable buckle, metal bar notches, friction reduction, precise mold movement",
"resources": "Here's an organized breakdown of the key components used in the mold-handling system:\n\n### Tools\n\n- [Einhell TC-WI500 manual winch](https://www.amazon.fr/s?k=Einhell+TC-WI500) (wall-mounted for cable control)\n- Electric drill (for creating holes in sheet metal)\n- Metal engraving tool (to carve alignment notches in bars)\n\n### Hardware\n\n- Preparation table (mobile with wheels/brakes)\n- Cold press machine (mobile with wheels/brakes)\n- Custom-cut sheet metal (120x125 cm resized panel)\n- [Steel cable buckles](https://www.amazon.fr/s?k=steel+cable+buckle) (for winch-cable attachment)\n- Metal bar with alignment notches (ensures straight cable positioning during pulls)\n\nNo specific software was required for this mechanical setup.",
"references": "## References\n\n### Articles\n\n- Handling molds easily - [filtered] Academy\n- [How To Build A Winch Plate: A Comprehensive DIY Guide](https://offroadpull.com/winch/accessories/mounting-plate/build/)\n\n### Youtube\n\n- [How To Install A Badland ZXR 2500 Winch & Winch Mounting Plate](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FdQmq8X7P00)\n\n### Opensource Designs\n\n- [Opensource electric winch - SkyPuff (Paragliding Forum)](https://www.paraglidingforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=99218)\n\n### Technical Manuals\n\n- [FITTING AND OPERATING GUIDE 12V / 24V DC ELECTRIC WINCH (PDF)](https://cdn.manomano.com/files/pdf/41029331.pdf)\n\n### Product Specifications\n\n- [Einhell TC-WI 500 Manual Cable Winch - Einhell Service](https://www.einhell-service.com/en_GB/2260160-tc-wi-500.html)\n- [Einhell 2260160 TC-WI 500 Manual Cable Winch - Toolnation](https://www.toolnation.com/einhell-2260160-tc-wi-500-manual-cable-winch-500-kg.html)",
"brief": "Learn to efficiently use a winch to handle molds solo with precise movements. Optimize your workflow with this straightforward modification guide."
"content": "In this tutorial, we will explain how to facilitate the handling of the molds, using a winch to pull them.\nThis modification, relatively simple to carry out allows :\n- an accurate and straight move\n- only one people\n\n\n\nUser Location: Eurre, France\n\nThe manual winch (Einhell TC-WI500) has been wall mounted behind the Coldpress, 30cm above the prepairing table.\nPlease notice the alignment of our 3 stations, and that the prepairing table and the Coldpress are equiped with wheels and brakes.\n\n\n\nWe resized the sheet metal to 120x125 cm to host the hanging system.\n\n1- We drilled the sheets metal to host a buckle made with a steel cable\n\n2- The cable tip of the winch has also been buckled\n\n3- Notches were engraved in a metal bar, to match with the 3 buckled cables.\n\n\n\n1- Moving the mold from the preparation table to the sheetpress\n\nUnroll the winch from the wall unto the preparation table, passing through the coldpress and the sheetpress. Use the metal bar to connect the buckles of the winch and the metal sheet ones.\n\nMake the preparation table roll next to the sheetpress\n\nWind the winch to pull the mold in the sheetpress.\n\n\n2- Moving the mold from the sheetpress to the coldpress :\n\nAs soon as the heating cycle is over, make the coldpress roll next to the sheetpress, then wind the winch again to unload the mold onto the coldpress.\n\n\nTo avoid rubbing and to facilitate the mold transferring :\n\nthe preparation table has been coated with a polypropylene plate (instead of wood).\n\nWhen loading the mold between 2 tables, we suggest to raise the 1st table 2 cm higher than the second.\n\nkeep the stations aligned with the winch cable to avoid rotating the mold when pulling.\n"
}

80
howtos/hands-free-door-opener-mould/README.md
View File

@ -1,37 +1,42 @@
---
title: Hands-Free Door Opener Mould
slug: hands-free-door-opener-mould
description: This guide provides instructions to create a mold for an injection-molded "hands-free" door handle.
description: With this How-to you can make your mould to inject a "hands free" door handle - to help stop the spread of COVID-19!
tags: ["product","mould"]
category: Moulds
difficulty: Hard
time: < 1 week
keywords: injection molded door handle, CNC files, aluminum mold creation, hands-free door handle, mold assembly instructions, 3D files by Materialise, downloadable CNC designs, hands-free door handle mold, sealing aluminum mold, Athens CNC manufacturing
keywords:
location: Athens, Greece
---
# Hands-Free Door Opener Mould
![Hands-Free Door Opener Mould](door-step_2-1-18391d09466.jpg)
This guide provides instructions to create a mold for an injection-molded "hands-free" door handle.
With this How-to you can make your mould to inject a "hands free" door handle - to help stop the spread of COVID-19!
User Location: Athens, Greece
## Steps
### Step 1: Download and mill the moulds
Attached are the CNC files created from the 3D files by Materialise. Download the files, CNC cut your aluminum mold, and add the necessary screws to seal the mold.
Attached you can find the CNC-files I created based on the 3D files provided by Materialise.
(<a class="text-orange-600 underline" href="https://www.materialise.com/en/hands-free-door-opener/technical-information)" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">materialise.com: materialise.com/en/hands-free-door-opener/technical-information)</a>
Download the files, CNC cut your aluminium mould and add required screws to close the mould.
![mould.jpg](./mould.jpg)
### Step 2: Inject and assemble
### Assembly Instructions
Once you injected your parts with your injection machine, you can assemble the product.
#### Required Materials:
- Two injected parts
- Two M4 screws and nuts
- One bike tube for spacing
You'll need:
- The two injected parts
- 2x M4 screws and Nuts
- 1x bike tube for in between
For detailed assembly instructions, please refer to the following link: [YouTube Assembly Instructions](https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=163&v=95aPYlXShTY&feature=emb_logo)
You can find more instructions for assembly here:
<a class="text-orange-600 underline" href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=163&v=95aPYlXShTY&feature=emb_logo" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">youtube.com: youtube.com/watch?time_continue=163&v=95aPYlXShTY&feature=emb_logo</a>
![door-step 2-1.jpg](./door-step_2-1.jpg)
@ -44,9 +49,15 @@ For detailed assembly instructions, please refer to the following link: [YouTube
### Step 3: Use it!
Consider manual efforts to minimize impact.
Do less harm, use your arm :)
Oh, and If you prefer to buy the mould, you can order it from me on the bazar:
If you wish to purchase the mold, it is available for order.
![door-step 3.jpg](./door-step_3.jpg)
@ -55,47 +66,4 @@ If you wish to purchase the mold, it is available for order.
![door-cover image-18391d0b163.jpg](./door-cover_image-18391d0b163.jpg)
## Resources
To create the injection-molded door handle mold, here are the essential tools, software, and materials:
### Software
- [Materialise software](https://www.materialise.com/) for CNC file generation
### Tools
- CNC machine for cutting the aluminum mold
### Hardware
- CNC-cut aluminum mold
- M4 screws and nuts
- Bike tube (for spacing)
- Injected parts (2x)
For assembly guidance, refer to the [YouTube tutorial](https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=163\&v=95aPYlXShTY\&feature=emb_logo).
## References
## Articles
- [Structural optimization design of injection mould for automobile inner door handle](https://gudmould.wordpress.com/2022/01/23/structural-optimization-design-of-injection-mould-for-automobile-inner-door-handle/)
- [3D Printed Door Handle | V&A Explore The Collections](https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O1609498/3d-printed-door-materialise/)
- [Thermoset Injection Molded Oven Handles](https://www.mcmusa.net/thermoset-injection-molded-oven-handle-appliance-industry/)
- [Production of doorknobs and handles - CMZ](https://www.cmz.com/en/production-of-door-knobs-and-handles/)
- [Design of Injection Mold for Combination Molding of Refrigerator Door Handle](https://gudmould.wordpress.com/2021/04/12/design-of-injection-mold-for-combination-molding-of-refrigerator-door-handle/)
## YouTube
- [Plastic Injection mold - door frame set](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bzMf9PCwqVE)
## Opensource Designs
- [My Metal Hand Doorknob](https://www.instructables.com/My-Metal-Hand-Doorknob/)
- [Hands-free Door Handle Turn](https://www.instructables.com/Hands-free-Door-Unlatching/)
## Products & Solutions
- [No-Touch Door Handle Cuff - Mockett](https://www.mockett.com/ada-hardware/dhc1-90.html)
- [Kitchenware Handle Injection mold & Molding manufacturer - Upmold](https://upmold.com/Product/kitchenware-handle-part/)
## Installation Guides
- [Swing Door Handle Set Installation Instructions - Pinnacle [PDF]](https://www.windsorpinnacle.com/file/85921)
## References

14
howtos/hands-free-door-opener-mould/config.json
View File

@ -1,5 +1,5 @@
{
"description": "This guide provides instructions to create a mold for an injection-molded \"hands-free\" door handle.",
"description": "With this How-to you can make your mould to inject a \"hands free\" door handle - to help stop the spread of COVID-19!",
"title": "Hands-Free Door Opener Mould",
"caption": "Door opener (for heavy doors)",
"id": "8rlcYBbp9cQIuWKvWI2r",
@ -66,10 +66,10 @@
}
],
"caption": "",
"text": "Attached are the CNC files created from the 3D files by Materialise. Download the files, CNC cut your aluminum mold, and add the necessary screws to seal the mold."
"text": "Attached you can find the CNC-files I created based on the 3D files provided by Materialise.\n(<a class=\"text-orange-600 underline\" href=\"https://www.materialise.com/en/hands-free-door-opener/technical-information)\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">materialise.com: materialise.com/en/hands-free-door-opener/technical-information)</a>\n\nDownload the files, CNC cut your aluminium mould and add required screws to close the mould.\n"
},
{
"text": "### Assembly Instructions\n\n#### Required Materials:\n- Two injected parts\n- Two M4 screws and nuts\n- One bike tube for spacing\n\nFor detailed assembly instructions, please refer to the following link: [YouTube Assembly Instructions](https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=163&v=95aPYlXShTY&feature=emb_logo)",
"text": "Once you injected your parts with your injection machine, you can assemble the product.\n\nYou'll need:\n- The two injected parts\n- 2x M4 screws and Nuts\n- 1x bike tube for in between\n\nYou can find more instructions for assembly here:\n<a class=\"text-orange-600 underline\" href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=163&v=95aPYlXShTY&feature=emb_logo\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">youtube.com: youtube.com/watch?time_continue=163&v=95aPYlXShTY&feature=emb_logo</a>",
"title": "Inject and assemble",
"_animationKey": "uniquev789w9",
"images": [
@ -140,7 +140,7 @@
],
"_animationKey": "unique0rzqym",
"title": "Use it!",
"text": "Consider manual efforts to minimize impact.\n\nIf you wish to purchase the mold, it is available for order."
"text": "Do less harm, use your arm :)\n\nOh, and If you prefer to buy the mould, you can order it from me on the bazar:\n\n\n\n\n\n"
}
],
"_contentModifiedTimestamp": "2022-12-01T13:32:25.740Z",
@ -307,9 +307,5 @@
"urls": []
}
},
"content": "This guide provides instructions to create a mold for an injection-molded \"hands-free\" door handle.\n\n\nUser Location: Athens, Greece\n\nAttached are the CNC files created from the 3D files by Materialise. Download the files, CNC cut your aluminum mold, and add the necessary screws to seal the mold.\n\n### Assembly Instructions\n\n#### Required Materials:\n- Two injected parts\n- Two M4 screws and nuts\n- One bike tube for spacing\n\nFor detailed assembly instructions, please refer to the following link: [YouTube Assembly Instructions](https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=163&v=95aPYlXShTY&feature=emb_logo)\n\nConsider manual efforts to minimize impact.\n\nIf you wish to purchase the mold, it is available for order.",
"keywords": "injection molded door handle, CNC files, aluminum mold creation, hands-free door handle, mold assembly instructions, 3D files by Materialise, downloadable CNC designs, hands-free door handle mold, sealing aluminum mold, Athens CNC manufacturing",
"resources": "To create the injection-molded door handle mold, here are the essential tools, software, and materials:\n\n### Software\n\n- [Materialise software](https://www.materialise.com/) for CNC file generation\n\n### Tools\n\n- CNC machine for cutting the aluminum mold\n\n### Hardware\n\n- CNC-cut aluminum mold\n- M4 screws and nuts\n- Bike tube (for spacing)\n- Injected parts (2x)\n\nFor assembly guidance, refer to the [YouTube tutorial](https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=163\\&v=95aPYlXShTY\\&feature=emb_logo).",
"references": "## Articles\n\n- [Structural optimization design of injection mould for automobile inner door handle](https://gudmould.wordpress.com/2022/01/23/structural-optimization-design-of-injection-mould-for-automobile-inner-door-handle/)\n- [3D Printed Door Handle | V&A Explore The Collections](https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O1609498/3d-printed-door-materialise/)\n- [Thermoset Injection Molded Oven Handles](https://www.mcmusa.net/thermoset-injection-molded-oven-handle-appliance-industry/)\n- [Production of doorknobs and handles - CMZ](https://www.cmz.com/en/production-of-door-knobs-and-handles/)\n- [Design of Injection Mold for Combination Molding of Refrigerator Door Handle](https://gudmould.wordpress.com/2021/04/12/design-of-injection-mold-for-combination-molding-of-refrigerator-door-handle/)\n\n## YouTube\n\n- [Plastic Injection mold - door frame set](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bzMf9PCwqVE)\n\n## Opensource Designs\n\n- [My Metal Hand Doorknob](https://www.instructables.com/My-Metal-Hand-Doorknob/)\n- [Hands-free Door Handle Turn](https://www.instructables.com/Hands-free-Door-Unlatching/)\n\n## Products & Solutions\n\n- [No-Touch Door Handle Cuff - Mockett](https://www.mockett.com/ada-hardware/dhc1-90.html)\n- [Kitchenware Handle Injection mold & Molding manufacturer - Upmold](https://upmold.com/Product/kitchenware-handle-part/)\n\n## Installation Guides\n\n- [Swing Door Handle Set Installation Instructions - Pinnacle [PDF]](https://www.windsorpinnacle.com/file/85921)",
"brief": "Guide to create an injection-molded hands-free door handle with CNC files; includes required materials and assembly instructions. Order mold if needed."
"content": "With this How-to you can make your mould to inject a \"hands free\" door handle - to help stop the spread of COVID-19!\n\n\nUser Location: Athens, Greece\n\nAttached you can find the CNC-files I created based on the 3D files provided by Materialise.\n(<a class=\"text-orange-600 underline\" href=\"https://www.materialise.com/en/hands-free-door-opener/technical-information)\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">materialise.com: materialise.com/en/hands-free-door-opener/technical-information)</a>\n\nDownload the files, CNC cut your aluminium mould and add required screws to close the mould.\n\n\nOnce you injected your parts with your injection machine, you can assemble the product.\n\nYou'll need:\n- The two injected parts\n- 2x M4 screws and Nuts\n- 1x bike tube for in between\n\nYou can find more instructions for assembly here:\n<a class=\"text-orange-600 underline\" href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=163&v=95aPYlXShTY&feature=emb_logo\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">youtube.com: youtube.com/watch?time_continue=163&v=95aPYlXShTY&feature=emb_logo</a>\n\nDo less harm, use your arm :)\n\nOh, and If you prefer to buy the mould, you can order it from me on the bazar:\n\n\n\n\n\n"
}

136
howtos/hdpe-dowel-nuts-for-break-down-furniture/README.md
View File

@ -1,79 +1,74 @@
---
title: HDPE Dowel Nuts for Break Down Furniture
slug: hdpe-dowel-nuts-for-break-down-furniture
description: I use an induction stovetop to heat a steel pipe to cast HDPE plastic for threaded inserts. I often make furniture from pallet wood, and dowel nuts are useful for creating knock-down joints. They are not available in sizes larger than 1/2 inch (13 mm) in diameter.
description: I use an induction stovetop to heat up a steel pipe and cast HDPE plastic to make threaded inserts (the Threaded Beavers). I enjoy making furniture out of pallet wood and dowel nuts are helpful to help create knock down joints. They don't make them larger than 1/2" in diameter.
tags: ["melting","HDPE","product","hack"]
category: uncategorized
difficulty: Easy
time: < 1 day
keywords: induction stovetop, HDPE plastic casting, threaded inserts, pallet wood furniture, dowel nuts, knock-down joints, melting plastic process, safety equipment for plastic melting, HDPE components tutorial, affordable plastic processing tools
keywords:
location:
---
# HDPE Dowel Nuts for Break Down Furniture
![HDPE Dowel Nuts for Break Down Furniture](Finish_shot_exterior.jpg)
I use an induction stovetop to heat a steel pipe to cast HDPE plastic for threaded inserts. I often make furniture from pallet wood, and dowel nuts are useful for creating knock-down joints. They are not available in sizes larger than 1/2 inch (13 mm) in diameter.
I use an induction stovetop to heat up a steel pipe and cast HDPE plastic to make threaded inserts (the Threaded Beavers). I enjoy making furniture out of pallet wood and dowel nuts are helpful to help create knock down joints. They don't make them larger than 1/2" in diameter.
## Steps
### Step 1: Obtain tools and materials
### Tools for Melting Plastic
Tools to melt plastic:
- **Induction Plate**: [Amazon Basics 1800W Portable](https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-1800W-Portabl)
- **Cast Iron Pan**: [Lodge Griddle Pre-seasoned](https://www.amazon.com/Lodge-Griddle-Pre-seasoned)
- **Stainless Steel Plate Adapter**: [9.45-inch Diffuser](https://www.amazon.com/9-45inch-Diffuser-Stainles)
- **Propane Torch**: [Bernzomatic](https://www.homedepot.com/p/Bernzomatic-WK2301-Pr)
- **Scrap Conduit**: 1-inch (2.54 cm) Inner Diameter
Amazon induction plate: <a class="text-orange-600 underline" href="https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-1800W-Portabl..." target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">amazon.com: amazon.com/AmazonBasics-1800W-Portabl...</a>
Cast Iron Pan: <a class="text-orange-600 underline" href="https://www.amazon.com/Lodge-Griddle-Pre-seasoned..." target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">amazon.com: amazon.com/Lodge-Griddle-Pre-seasoned...</a>
or stainless steel plate adapter: <a class="text-orange-600 underline" href="https://www.amazon.com/9-45inch-Diffuser-Stainles..." target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">amazon.com: amazon.com/9-45inch-Diffuser-Stainles...</a>
Propane torch: <a class="text-orange-600 underline" href="https://www.homedepot.com/p/Bernzomatic-WK2301-Pr..." target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">homedepot.com: homedepot.com/p/Bernzomatic-WK2301-Pr...</a>
Scrap conduit (1" Inner diameter)
### Plastic Materials
Plastic Materials:
Milk jugs
construction hard hats
bottle caps.
- Milk jugs
- Construction hard hats
- Bottle caps
Safety tools:
3M respirator
Safety glasses
Silicon Gloves: <a class="text-orange-600 underline" href="https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Grip-Silicone-Prof..." target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">amazon.com: amazon.com/Gorilla-Grip-Silicone-Prof...</a>
Wood for bench:
### Safety Equipment
- 3M Respirator
- Safety Glasses
- Silicone Gloves: [Gorilla Grip](https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Grip-Silicone-Prof)
### Wood for Bench
- Laminated pallet wood for legs
- Half-lapped pallet wood for the backrest
- 3/4 inch (1.9 cm) pallet plywood
Laminated pallet wood for the legs
half lapped pallet wood for the backrest
3/4" pallet plywood
### Step 2: Cut up or shred the HDPE
I am beginning to work with HDPE and currently use scissors and power tools for cutting. I am considering purchasing an inexpensive blender to create smaller plastic pieces.
I'm just getting started in recycling HDPE so I'm manually cutting up plastic with a scissors and some power tools. I think I may buy a cheap blender to shred the plastic into smaller pieces.
### Step 3: Melt HDPE
Melt the plastic using a magnetic pan on an induction cooktop. Set the temperature to 200°C (400°F) for efficient melting.
Melt the plastic using a ferrous/magnetic pan on an induction top. I set my temperature to 400 degrees F and it seems to melt quickly.
I also used a steel cylinder heated on the induction plate to aid in rolling the plastic into a sheet.
I had a scrap cylinder of steel which I was also able to heat up on the induction plate and it helped with rolling out the plastic into a sheet.
Refer to the video at the 3:00 mark for the plastic melting process.
See the video link here at ~3:00 mark where I start melting plastic.
### Step 4: CAST HDPE
I heated a conduit/steel pipe (1" interior diameter [2.54 cm]) by placing it on a hot metal surface. Then, I gradually added melted HDPE into the pipe. A spare bolt helped push more plastic in, reheating the pipe as needed to maintain warmth.
I heated up a conduit/steel pipe (1" interior diameter) placed it on a hot piece of metal, then I slowly added the melted HDPE into the pipe. I used a spare bolt to shove more plastic in and would heat up the pipe if I thought it cooled to much.
Once filled, I used a clamp and 1" (2.54 cm) diameter plywood to achieve high compression in the pipe, aiming for maximum HDPE density.
After filling the pipe, I use a clamp and some 1" diameter plywood in the conduit to really get high compression in the conduit. I'm trying to keep the density of this HDPE as high as possible.
As the HDPE shrinks while cooling, I tightened the clamps accordingly.
After clamping, the HDPE will tend to shrink so I'll tighten the clamps as the plastic & pipe cools.
Frequent addition of smaller HDPE pieces with regular compression yielded the best results, though my technique is still a work in progress.
Adding smaller pieces and compressing down frequently seem to get the best results but I haven't mastered this process yet.
### Step 5: Cut, Drill, & Tap the HDPE
### Tutorial: Preparing and Assembling HDPE Components
After the HDPE cools inside the conduit/pipe, I found it to be easy to remove the casted plastic. I ended up cutting into 1" long cylinder with a handsaw then cut the cylinder in half.
1. **Removal and Cutting**: Once the HDPE solidifies inside the conduit or pipe, it can be easily removed. Cut it into 1-inch (2.54 cm) long cylinders using a handsaw, then halve each cylinder.
I drilled a hole into the center, and tapped the hole using a 3/8" x 16 N.C. tap and followed the tap with the actual bolt I used.
2. **Drilling and Tapping**: Drill a hole at the center of each half-cylinder. Use a 3/8-inch x 16 N.C. tap for threading, followed by inserting the appropriate bolt.
To make the bolt easier to enter the hole, I also used a countersink at the bolt entrance holes.
3. **Countersinking**: Apply a countersink to the bolt entrance for smoother insertion.
4. **Thread Durability**: The threads proved to be durable, even able to withstand use with an impact driver without stripping. Bolts with nuts were also added for further stability. The impact of temperature changes on this setup will be monitored.
One of the surprising discoveries to me was how strong the thread held. Even using my impact driver, I didn't seem to strip the thread. I also installed some bolts adding a nut on the flat side of the Threaded Beaver and I'll check the differences as the temperature changes.
![IMG_0763.JPG](./IMG_0763.JPG)
@ -86,11 +81,11 @@ Frequent addition of smaller HDPE pieces with regular compression yielded the be
### Step 6: Use the Threaded Beavers
During the prototype phase, I estimated the position for the threaded component and created a 1-inch (2.54 cm) diameter mortise in the stretcher using a forstener bit. I then used a 7/16-inch (1.11 cm) drill bit to penetrate the end grain at the center of the stretcher.
Since I was in prototype mode, I measured roughly where the threaded beaver was going to go and used a 1" forstener bit to make a 1" diameter mortise into the stretcher piece of wood. Using a 7/16" longer drill bit, I drilled into the end grain roughly in the center of the stretcher.
For connecting the 2x lumber to the stretcher, I countersunk a hole for the hex head bolt and washer to fit neatly. Although optional, this detail enhances the bench's appearance.
For 2x wood getting connected to the stretcher piece of wood, I countersunk a hole for the hex head bolt and washer to sit nicely in. This is not necessary but I thought it make this bench look a little bit higher end.
The bench structure served as the basic framework, onto which I added plywood for the seat and backrest.
This bench structure I made was really just the bones of my bench, I cut some plywood for the seat and back rest which covers the structure.
![IMG_1023.JPG](./IMG_1023.JPG)
@ -100,60 +95,9 @@ The bench structure served as the basic framework, onto which I added plywood fo
### Step 7: Help me!
I welcome any suggestions and comments as I begin working with HDPE. My focus is on using affordable and readily available tools, such as an induction cooktop, to process this material.
Please give me suggestions and comments as I'm just starting to build with recycled HDPE. I'd like to focus on using cheap or readily available tools like an induction top to process the material.
Thank you for reading and I hope that you can learn something from my current process.
## Resources
Here's the extracted tool/material list structured by category:
### Tools
- ~~[Amazon Basics 1800W Induction Plate](https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-1800W-Portabl)~~
- ~~[Lodge Griddle Cast Iron Pan](https://www.amazon.com/Lodge-Griddle-Pre-seasoned)~~
- ~~[9.45-inch Steel Plate Adapter](https://www.amazon.com/9-45inch-Diffuser-Stainles)~~
- ~~[Bernzomatic Propane Torch](https://www.homedepot.com/p/Bernzomatic-WK2301-Pr)~~
- 1" inner diameter scrap steel pipe/conduit
### Plastic Materials
- Recycled HDPE sources:\
Milk jugs\
Construction hard hats\
Plastic bottle caps
- (Considered: Inexpensive shredder/blender)
### Safety Equipment
- ~~[Gorilla Grip Silicone Gloves](https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Grip-Silicone-Prof)~~
- 3M Respirator
- Safety glasses
### Wood Materials
- Pallet wood (laminated for legs)
- Half-lapped pallet slats (backrest)
- 3/4" pallet plywood (seat/base)
### Hardware Components
- 3/8" x 16 N.C. tap & drill bit
- 7/16" drill bit (for stretcher)
- 1" Forstner bit (mortises)
- Hex head bolts with nuts/washers
- Spare bolt (plastic compression tool)
All temperatures (200°C/400°F) refer to induction cooktop settings[1][2][3].
## References
## Articles
- [Understanding the HDPE Pipe Extrusion Process](https://sinopipefactory.com/blog/understanding-the-hdpe-pipe-extrusion-process-a-comprehensive-guide/)
- [Threaded Inserts Enable Assembly of Plastic Furniture](https://www.assemblymag.com/articles/98171-threaded-inserts-enable-assembly-of-plastic-furniture)
- [Everything You Need to Know About HDPE Plastic Injection Molding](https://pom-material.com/blog/hdpe-plastic-injection-molding/)
## YouTube
- [DIY Induction heater module + Theory](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EujaZ_mNt7g)
- [How To Make A Reusable HDPE Epoxy Resin Table Mold](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J_0ekhH4UwU)
## Opensource Designs
- [Plastic Smithing: How to Make Your Own HDPE Plastic Anything](https://www.instructables.com/HomemadePlastic/)
## References

22
howtos/hdpe-dowel-nuts-for-break-down-furniture/config.json
View File

@ -41,17 +41,17 @@
"_animationKey": "unique1",
"images": [],
"videoUrl": "https://youtu.be/AU2yiBG_CDw",
"text": "### Tools for Melting Plastic\n\n- **Induction Plate**: [Amazon Basics 1800W Portable](https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-1800W-Portabl)\n- **Cast Iron Pan**: [Lodge Griddle Pre-seasoned](https://www.amazon.com/Lodge-Griddle-Pre-seasoned)\n- **Stainless Steel Plate Adapter**: [9.45-inch Diffuser](https://www.amazon.com/9-45inch-Diffuser-Stainles)\n- **Propane Torch**: [Bernzomatic](https://www.homedepot.com/p/Bernzomatic-WK2301-Pr)\n- **Scrap Conduit**: 1-inch (2.54 cm) Inner Diameter\n\n### Plastic Materials\n\n- Milk jugs\n- Construction hard hats\n- Bottle caps\n\n### Safety Equipment\n\n- 3M Respirator\n- Safety Glasses\n- Silicone Gloves: [Gorilla Grip](https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Grip-Silicone-Prof)\n\n### Wood for Bench\n\n- Laminated pallet wood for legs\n- Half-lapped pallet wood for the backrest\n- 3/4 inch (1.9 cm) pallet plywood"
"text": "Tools to melt plastic:\n\nAmazon induction plate: <a class=\"text-orange-600 underline\" href=\"https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-1800W-Portabl...\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">amazon.com: amazon.com/AmazonBasics-1800W-Portabl...</a>\nCast Iron Pan: <a class=\"text-orange-600 underline\" href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Lodge-Griddle-Pre-seasoned...\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">amazon.com: amazon.com/Lodge-Griddle-Pre-seasoned...</a>\nor stainless steel plate adapter: <a class=\"text-orange-600 underline\" href=\"https://www.amazon.com/9-45inch-Diffuser-Stainles...\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">amazon.com: amazon.com/9-45inch-Diffuser-Stainles...</a>\nPropane torch: <a class=\"text-orange-600 underline\" href=\"https://www.homedepot.com/p/Bernzomatic-WK2301-Pr...\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">homedepot.com: homedepot.com/p/Bernzomatic-WK2301-Pr...</a>\nScrap conduit (1\" Inner diameter)\n\nPlastic Materials:\nMilk jugs\nconstruction hard hats\nbottle caps.\n\nSafety tools:\n3M respirator\nSafety glasses\nSilicon Gloves: <a class=\"text-orange-600 underline\" href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Grip-Silicone-Prof...\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">amazon.com: amazon.com/Gorilla-Grip-Silicone-Prof...</a>\nWood for bench:\n\nLaminated pallet wood for the legs\nhalf lapped pallet wood for the backrest\n3/4\" pallet plywood"
},
{
"_animationKey": "unique2",
"text": "I am beginning to work with HDPE and currently use scissors and power tools for cutting. I am considering purchasing an inexpensive blender to create smaller plastic pieces.",
"text": "I'm just getting started in recycling HDPE so I'm manually cutting up plastic with a scissors and some power tools. I think I may buy a cheap blender to shred the plastic into smaller pieces.",
"title": "Cut up or shred the HDPE",
"videoUrl": "https://youtu.be/AU2yiBG_CDw?t=152",
"images": []
},
{
"text": "Melt the plastic using a magnetic pan on an induction cooktop. Set the temperature to 200°C (400°F) for efficient melting.\n\nI also used a steel cylinder heated on the induction plate to aid in rolling the plastic into a sheet.\n\nRefer to the video at the 3:00 mark for the plastic melting process.",
"text": "Melt the plastic using a ferrous/magnetic pan on an induction top. I set my temperature to 400 degrees F and it seems to melt quickly.\n\nI had a scrap cylinder of steel which I was also able to heat up on the induction plate and it helped with rolling out the plastic into a sheet.\n\nSee the video link here at ~3:00 mark where I start melting plastic.",
"images": [],
"title": "Melt HDPE ",
"_animationKey": "unique3",
@ -59,7 +59,7 @@
},
{
"videoUrl": "https://youtu.be/AU2yiBG_CDw?t=208",
"text": "I heated a conduit/steel pipe (1\" interior diameter [2.54 cm]) by placing it on a hot metal surface. Then, I gradually added melted HDPE into the pipe. A spare bolt helped push more plastic in, reheating the pipe as needed to maintain warmth.\n\nOnce filled, I used a clamp and 1\" (2.54 cm) diameter plywood to achieve high compression in the pipe, aiming for maximum HDPE density.\n\nAs the HDPE shrinks while cooling, I tightened the clamps accordingly.\n\nFrequent addition of smaller HDPE pieces with regular compression yielded the best results, though my technique is still a work in progress.",
"text": "I heated up a conduit/steel pipe (1\" interior diameter) placed it on a hot piece of metal, then I slowly added the melted HDPE into the pipe. I used a spare bolt to shove more plastic in and would heat up the pipe if I thought it cooled to much.\n\nAfter filling the pipe, I use a clamp and some 1\" diameter plywood in the conduit to really get high compression in the conduit. I'm trying to keep the density of this HDPE as high as possible.\n\nAfter clamping, the HDPE will tend to shrink so I'll tighten the clamps as the plastic & pipe cools.\n\nAdding smaller pieces and compressing down frequently seem to get the best results but I haven't mastered this process yet.",
"title": "CAST HDPE",
"_animationKey": "unique2xz6wi",
"images": []
@ -105,7 +105,7 @@
"alt": "IMG_0761.JPG"
}
],
"text": "### Tutorial: Preparing and Assembling HDPE Components\n\n1. **Removal and Cutting**: Once the HDPE solidifies inside the conduit or pipe, it can be easily removed. Cut it into 1-inch (2.54 cm) long cylinders using a handsaw, then halve each cylinder.\n\n2. **Drilling and Tapping**: Drill a hole at the center of each half-cylinder. Use a 3/8-inch x 16 N.C. tap for threading, followed by inserting the appropriate bolt.\n\n3. **Countersinking**: Apply a countersink to the bolt entrance for smoother insertion.\n\n4. **Thread Durability**: The threads proved to be durable, even able to withstand use with an impact driver without stripping. Bolts with nuts were also added for further stability. The impact of temperature changes on this setup will be monitored."
"text": "After the HDPE cools inside the conduit/pipe, I found it to be easy to remove the casted plastic. I ended up cutting into 1\" long cylinder with a handsaw then cut the cylinder in half.\n\nI drilled a hole into the center, and tapped the hole using a 3/8\" x 16 N.C. tap and followed the tap with the actual bolt I used.\n\nTo make the bolt easier to enter the hole, I also used a countersink at the bolt entrance holes.\n\nOne of the surprising discoveries to me was how strong the thread held. Even using my impact driver, I didn't seem to strip the thread. I also installed some bolts adding a nut on the flat side of the Threaded Beaver and I'll check the differences as the temperature changes."
},
{
"_animationKey": "uniquetvcesa",
@ -136,18 +136,18 @@
"alt": "Threaded beaver insert.JPG"
}
],
"text": "During the prototype phase, I estimated the position for the threaded component and created a 1-inch (2.54 cm) diameter mortise in the stretcher using a forstener bit. I then used a 7/16-inch (1.11 cm) drill bit to penetrate the end grain at the center of the stretcher.\n\nFor connecting the 2x lumber to the stretcher, I countersunk a hole for the hex head bolt and washer to fit neatly. Although optional, this detail enhances the bench's appearance.\n\nThe bench structure served as the basic framework, onto which I added plywood for the seat and backrest."
"text": "Since I was in prototype mode, I measured roughly where the threaded beaver was going to go and used a 1\" forstener bit to make a 1\" diameter mortise into the stretcher piece of wood. Using a 7/16\" longer drill bit, I drilled into the end grain roughly in the center of the stretcher.\n\nFor 2x wood getting connected to the stretcher piece of wood, I countersunk a hole for the hex head bolt and washer to sit nicely in. This is not necessary but I thought it make this bench look a little bit higher end.\n\nThis bench structure I made was really just the bones of my bench, I cut some plywood for the seat and back rest which covers the structure."
},
{
"_animationKey": "uniqued2hjwc",
"title": "Help me!",
"videoUrl": "https://youtu.be/AU2yiBG_CDw",
"images": [],
"text": "I welcome any suggestions and comments as I begin working with HDPE. My focus is on using affordable and readily available tools, such as an induction cooktop, to process this material."
"text": "Please give me suggestions and comments as I'm just starting to build with recycled HDPE. I'd like to focus on using cheap or readily available tools like an induction top to process the material. \n\nThank you for reading and I hope that you can learn something from my current process."
}
],
"_modified": "2023-12-17T14:51:52.825Z",
"description": "I use an induction stovetop to heat a steel pipe to cast HDPE plastic for threaded inserts. I often make furniture from pallet wood, and dowel nuts are useful for creating knock-down joints. They are not available in sizes larger than 1/2 inch (13 mm) in diameter.",
"description": "I use an induction stovetop to heat up a steel pipe and cast HDPE plastic to make threaded inserts (the Threaded Beavers). I enjoy making furniture out of pallet wood and dowel nuts are helpful to help create knock down joints. They don't make them larger than 1/2\" in diameter.",
"moderation": "accepted",
"_contentModifiedTimestamp": "2023-06-14T11:02:18.726Z",
"_id": "n95aUNMEi103EFQYYraN",
@ -155,9 +155,5 @@
"category": {
"label": "uncategorized"
},
"content": "I use an induction stovetop to heat a steel pipe to cast HDPE plastic for threaded inserts. I often make furniture from pallet wood, and dowel nuts are useful for creating knock-down joints. They are not available in sizes larger than 1/2 inch (13 mm) in diameter.\n\n### Tools for Melting Plastic\n\n- **Induction Plate**: ~~[Amazon Basics 1800W Portable](https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-1800W-Portabl)~~\n- **Cast Iron Pan**: ~~[Lodge Griddle Pre-seasoned](https://www.amazon.com/Lodge-Griddle-Pre-seasoned)~~\n- **Stainless Steel Plate Adapter**: ~~[9.45-inch Diffuser](https://www.amazon.com/9-45inch-Diffuser-Stainles)~~\n- **Propane Torch**: ~~[Bernzomatic](https://www.homedepot.com/p/Bernzomatic-WK2301-Pr)~~\n- **Scrap Conduit**: 1-inch (2.54 cm) Inner Diameter\n\n### Plastic Materials\n\n- Milk jugs\n- Construction hard hats\n- Bottle caps\n\n### Safety Equipment\n\n- 3M Respirator\n- Safety Glasses\n- Silicone Gloves: ~~[Gorilla Grip](https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Grip-Silicone-Prof)~~\n\n### Wood for Bench\n\n- Laminated pallet wood for legs\n- Half-lapped pallet wood for the backrest\n- 3/4 inch (1.9 cm) pallet plywood\n\nI am beginning to work with HDPE and currently use scissors and power tools for cutting. I am considering purchasing an inexpensive blender to create smaller plastic pieces.\n\nMelt the plastic using a magnetic pan on an induction cooktop. Set the temperature to 200°C (400°F) for efficient melting.\n\nI also used a steel cylinder heated on the induction plate to aid in rolling the plastic into a sheet.\n\nRefer to the video at the 3:00 mark for the plastic melting process.\n\nI heated a conduit/steel pipe (1\" interior diameter [2.54 cm]) by placing it on a hot metal surface. Then, I gradually added melted HDPE into the pipe. A spare bolt helped push more plastic in, reheating the pipe as needed to maintain warmth.\n\nOnce filled, I used a clamp and 1\" (2.54 cm) diameter plywood to achieve high compression in the pipe, aiming for maximum HDPE density.\n\nAs the HDPE shrinks while cooling, I tightened the clamps accordingly.\n\nFrequent addition of smaller HDPE pieces with regular compression yielded the best results, though my technique is still a work in progress.\n\n### Tutorial: Preparing and Assembling HDPE Components\n\n1. **Removal and Cutting**: Once the HDPE solidifies inside the conduit or pipe, it can be easily removed. Cut it into 1-inch (2.54 cm) long cylinders using a handsaw, then halve each cylinder.\n\n2. **Drilling and Tapping**: Drill a hole at the center of each half-cylinder. Use a 3/8-inch x 16 N.C. tap for threading, followed by inserting the appropriate bolt.\n\n3. **Countersinking**: Apply a countersink to the bolt entrance for smoother insertion.\n\n4. **Thread Durability**: The threads proved to be durable, even able to withstand use with an impact driver without stripping. Bolts with nuts were also added for further stability. The impact of temperature changes on this setup will be monitored.\n\nDuring the prototype phase, I estimated the position for the threaded component and created a 1-inch (2.54 cm) diameter mortise in the stretcher using a forstener bit. I then used a 7/16-inch (1.11 cm) drill bit to penetrate the end grain at the center of the stretcher.\n\nFor connecting the 2x lumber to the stretcher, I countersunk a hole for the hex head bolt and washer to fit neatly. Although optional, this detail enhances the bench's appearance.\n\nThe bench structure served as the basic framework, onto which I added plywood for the seat and backrest.\n\nI welcome any suggestions and comments as I begin working with HDPE. My focus is on using affordable and readily available tools, such as an induction cooktop, to process this material.",
"keywords": "induction stovetop, HDPE plastic casting, threaded inserts, pallet wood furniture, dowel nuts, knock-down joints, melting plastic process, safety equipment for plastic melting, HDPE components tutorial, affordable plastic processing tools",
"resources": "Here's the extracted tool/material list structured by category:\n\n### Tools\n\n- ~~[Amazon Basics 1800W Induction Plate](https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-1800W-Portabl)~~\n- ~~[Lodge Griddle Cast Iron Pan](https://www.amazon.com/Lodge-Griddle-Pre-seasoned)~~\n- ~~[9.45-inch Steel Plate Adapter](https://www.amazon.com/9-45inch-Diffuser-Stainles)~~\n- ~~[Bernzomatic Propane Torch](https://www.homedepot.com/p/Bernzomatic-WK2301-Pr)~~\n- 1\" inner diameter scrap steel pipe/conduit\n\n### Plastic Materials\n\n- Recycled HDPE sources:\\\n Milk jugs\\\n Construction hard hats\\\n Plastic bottle caps\n- (Considered: Inexpensive shredder/blender)\n\n### Safety Equipment\n\n- ~~[Gorilla Grip Silicone Gloves](https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Grip-Silicone-Prof)~~\n- 3M Respirator\n- Safety glasses\n\n### Wood Materials\n\n- Pallet wood (laminated for legs)\n- Half-lapped pallet slats (backrest)\n- 3/4\" pallet plywood (seat/base)\n\n### Hardware Components\n\n- 3/8\" x 16 N.C. tap & drill bit\n- 7/16\" drill bit (for stretcher)\n- 1\" Forstner bit (mortises)\n- Hex head bolts with nuts/washers\n- Spare bolt (plastic compression tool)\n\nAll temperatures (200°C/400°F) refer to induction cooktop settings[1][2][3].",
"references": "## Articles\n\n- [Understanding the HDPE Pipe Extrusion Process](https://sinopipefactory.com/blog/understanding-the-hdpe-pipe-extrusion-process-a-comprehensive-guide/)\n- [Threaded Inserts Enable Assembly of Plastic Furniture](https://www.assemblymag.com/articles/98171-threaded-inserts-enable-assembly-of-plastic-furniture)\n- [Everything You Need to Know About HDPE Plastic Injection Molding](https://pom-material.com/blog/hdpe-plastic-injection-molding/)\n\n## YouTube\n\n- [DIY Induction heater module + Theory](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EujaZ_mNt7g)\n- [How To Make A Reusable HDPE Epoxy Resin Table Mold](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J_0ekhH4UwU)\n\n## Opensource Designs\n\n- [Plastic Smithing: How to Make Your Own HDPE Plastic Anything](https://www.instructables.com/HomemadePlastic/)",
"brief": "Create knock-down furniture joints using HDPE plastic and pallet wood efficiently with an induction stovetop. Explore tools to craft durable threaded inserts."
"content": "I use an induction stovetop to heat up a steel pipe and cast HDPE plastic to make threaded inserts (the Threaded Beavers). I enjoy making furniture out of pallet wood and dowel nuts are helpful to help create knock down joints. They don't make them larger than 1/2\" in diameter.\n\nTools to melt plastic:\n\nAmazon induction plate: <a class=\"text-orange-600 underline\" href=\"https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-1800W-Portabl...\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">amazon.com: amazon.com/AmazonBasics-1800W-Portabl...</a>\nCast Iron Pan: <a class=\"text-orange-600 underline\" href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Lodge-Griddle-Pre-seasoned...\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">amazon.com: amazon.com/Lodge-Griddle-Pre-seasoned...</a>\nor stainless steel plate adapter: <a class=\"text-orange-600 underline\" href=\"https://www.amazon.com/9-45inch-Diffuser-Stainles...\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">amazon.com: amazon.com/9-45inch-Diffuser-Stainles...</a>\nPropane torch: <a class=\"text-orange-600 underline\" href=\"https://www.homedepot.com/p/Bernzomatic-WK2301-Pr...\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">homedepot.com: homedepot.com/p/Bernzomatic-WK2301-Pr...</a>\nScrap conduit (1\" Inner diameter)\n\nPlastic Materials:\nMilk jugs\nconstruction hard hats\nbottle caps.\n\nSafety tools:\n3M respirator\nSafety glasses\nSilicon Gloves: <a class=\"text-orange-600 underline\" href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Grip-Silicone-Prof...\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">amazon.com: amazon.com/Gorilla-Grip-Silicone-Prof...</a>\nWood for bench:\n\nLaminated pallet wood for the legs\nhalf lapped pallet wood for the backrest\n3/4\" pallet plywood\n\nI'm just getting started in recycling HDPE so I'm manually cutting up plastic with a scissors and some power tools. I think I may buy a cheap blender to shred the plastic into smaller pieces.\n\nMelt the plastic using a ferrous/magnetic pan on an induction top. I set my temperature to 400 degrees F and it seems to melt quickly.\n\nI had a scrap cylinder of steel which I was also able to heat up on the induction plate and it helped with rolling out the plastic into a sheet.\n\nSee the video link here at ~3:00 mark where I start melting plastic.\n\nI heated up a conduit/steel pipe (1\" interior diameter) placed it on a hot piece of metal, then I slowly added the melted HDPE into the pipe. I used a spare bolt to shove more plastic in and would heat up the pipe if I thought it cooled to much.\n\nAfter filling the pipe, I use a clamp and some 1\" diameter plywood in the conduit to really get high compression in the conduit. I'm trying to keep the density of this HDPE as high as possible.\n\nAfter clamping, the HDPE will tend to shrink so I'll tighten the clamps as the plastic & pipe cools.\n\nAdding smaller pieces and compressing down frequently seem to get the best results but I haven't mastered this process yet.\n\nAfter the HDPE cools inside the conduit/pipe, I found it to be easy to remove the casted plastic. I ended up cutting into 1\" long cylinder with a handsaw then cut the cylinder in half.\n\nI drilled a hole into the center, and tapped the hole using a 3/8\" x 16 N.C. tap and followed the tap with the actual bolt I used.\n\nTo make the bolt easier to enter the hole, I also used a countersink at the bolt entrance holes.\n\nOne of the surprising discoveries to me was how strong the thread held. Even using my impact driver, I didn't seem to strip the thread. I also installed some bolts adding a nut on the flat side of the Threaded Beaver and I'll check the differences as the temperature changes.\n\nSince I was in prototype mode, I measured roughly where the threaded beaver was going to go and used a 1\" forstener bit to make a 1\" diameter mortise into the stretcher piece of wood. Using a 7/16\" longer drill bit, I drilled into the end grain roughly in the center of the stretcher.\n\nFor 2x wood getting connected to the stretcher piece of wood, I countersunk a hole for the hex head bolt and washer to sit nicely in. This is not necessary but I thought it make this bench look a little bit higher end.\n\nThis bench structure I made was really just the bones of my bench, I cut some plywood for the seat and back rest which covers the structure.\n\nPlease give me suggestions and comments as I'm just starting to build with recycled HDPE. I'd like to focus on using cheap or readily available tools like an induction top to process the material. \n\nThank you for reading and I hope that you can learn something from my current process."
}

65
howtos/heat-shield-for-injection-and-extrusion-machines/README.md
View File

@ -1,78 +1,29 @@
---
title: Heat Shield for Injection and Extrusion Machines
slug: heat-shield-for-injection-and-extrusion-machines
description: # Enhance Safety and Appearance of Injection and Extrusion Machines
Learn how to improve both the safety features and visual appeal of your injection and extrusion machines. This guide provides practical steps to ensure your equipment is both secure and visually appealing.
description: Increase the safety and appearance of your injection and extrusion machine
tags: ["extrusion","injection"]
category: Guides
difficulty: Medium
time: < 5 hours
keywords: Safety features, injection machines, extrusion machines, visual appeal, stainless steel tubing, muffler insulation, heater bands, M6 bolts, Philippines, equipment enhancement
keywords:
location: Antipolo, Philippines (the)
---
# Heat Shield for Injection and Extrusion Machines
![Heat Shield for Injection and Extrusion Machines](20201124_1502341.jpg)
# Enhance Safety and Appearance of Injection and Extrusion Machines
Learn how to improve both the safety features and visual appeal of your injection and extrusion machines. This guide provides practical steps to ensure your equipment is both secure and visually appealing.
Increase the safety and appearance of your injection and extrusion machine
User Location: Antipolo, Philippines (the)
## Steps
### Step 1: Build your heat shield
The YouTube video provides clarity on machine measurements, which can vary; these are not specified here.
The YouTube video shows it better. As everyone's machines are different measurements, this is not included here, but should be self explanatory in the video.
We utilized 4-inch (10 cm) round stainless steel tubing. Square tubing is also suitable, provided it is long enough to encase the heater bands and insulation without direct contact.
We used round stainless steel tubing at 4 inch size. However you can also use square tube. As long as your tube is long enough to fit over the heater bands and insulation without direct contact.
We used 16 feet (5 meters) of muffler insulation.
For insulation we use 5 meters of muffler insulation.
The tubing was secured with M6 bolts, threading into the tubing. Alternative bolt sizes or machine screws are also acceptable.
We secured the tubing with m6 bolts and tapped the tubing. You can use other size bolt or even machine screws.
## Resources
### Hardware
- 4-inch (10 cm) round/square stainless steel tubing
- 16 feet (5 meters) muffler insulation
- M6 bolts or machine screws
### Tools
- Drilling tools (for threading)
- Wrench set (for fastening bolts)
### Software
- Not specified in the tutorial
### References
- ~~[YouTube video on machine measurements](#)~~
## References
## References
### Articles
- [Fundamentals of Plasticizing Screw Extrusion - Addcomposite](https://www.addcomposites.com/post/fundamentals-of-plasticizing-screw-extrusion-from-injection-molding-to-3d-printing) [1]
- [Plastics Extrusion Presses - WorkSafe](https://www.worksafe.govt.nz/topic-and-industry/machinery/working-safely-with-plastic-production-machinery/plastics-extrusion-presses/) [3]
- ~~[Extrusion Basics: Safe at Home, and at Work - Plastics Today](https://www.plasticstoday.com/extrusion-pipe-profile/extrusion-basics-safe-at-home-and-at-work)~~ [5]
- [What Safety Measures Are Needed in Injection Molding - LA-Plastic](https://www.la-plastic.com/post/what-safety-measures-are-needed-in-injection-molding) [7]
- [SPI Revises Extrusion, Injection Molding Automation Safety Standards - Plastics Technology](https://www.ptonline.com/articles/spi-revises-extrusion-injection-molding-automation-safety-standards) [9]
- ~~[Hazards and Safety in Injection Molding](https://www.geocities.ws/dfloyd2292/hazards.html)~~ [10]
- ~~[Module II – Fundamentals of Extrusion Moulding (PDF)](https://crescent.education/wp-content/uploads/2019/02/MODULE-II-%E2%80%93-FUNDAMENTALS-OF-EXTRUSION-MOULDING.pdf)~~ [11]
- [Essential Injection Molding Safety Standards - RJG, Inc.](https://rjginc.com/essential-injection-molding-safety-standards-and-practices/) [16]
### Papers
- [Open-Source 3-D Printable Autoinjector (PMC)](https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC10348544/) [12]
- ~~[Open-Source Autoinjector Design (PLOS ONE)](https://journals.plos.org/plosone/article?id=10.1371%2Fjournal.pone.0288696)~~ [13]
- [Open-Source Bioink and Food Melt Extrusion 3D Printer - JoVE](https://www.jove.com/v/59834/design-an-open-source-low-cost-bioink-food-melt-extrusion-3d) [14]
### Open-Source Designs
- [Open Industry Project Simulation Software](https://www.oldergeeks.com/downloads/search.php?limit=100\&string=Power+Software+Ltd.\&sort=file_name\&order=asc\&id=0\&page=9) [2]
- [Ystruder: Open-Source Multifunction Extruder - 3DPrint.com](https://3dprint.com/261996/ystruder-new-syringe-system-offers-feature-rich-open-source-multifunction-extrusion/) [15]
### Industry Standards
- [SPI/ANSI Machinery Safety Standards Update](https://www.ptonline.com/articles/spi-revises-extrusion-injection-molding-automation-safety-standards) [9]
## References

10
howtos/heat-shield-for-injection-and-extrusion-machines/config.json
View File

@ -42,7 +42,7 @@
"videoUrl": "https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oas-fFnkzgA",
"title": "Build your heat shield",
"_animationKey": "unique1",
"text": "The YouTube video provides clarity on machine measurements, which can vary; these are not specified here.\n\nWe utilized 4-inch (10 cm) round stainless steel tubing. Square tubing is also suitable, provided it is long enough to encase the heater bands and insulation without direct contact.\n\nWe used 16 feet (5 meters) of muffler insulation.\n\nThe tubing was secured with M6 bolts, threading into the tubing. Alternative bolt sizes or machine screws are also acceptable."
"text": "The YouTube video shows it better. As everyone's machines are different measurements, this is not included here, but should be self explanatory in the video.\n\nWe used round stainless steel tubing at 4 inch size. However you can also use square tube. As long as your tube is long enough to fit over the heater bands and insulation without direct contact. \n\nFor insulation we use 5 meters of muffler insulation.\n\nWe secured the tubing with m6 bolts and tapped the tubing. You can use other size bolt or even machine screws."
}
],
"_contentModifiedTimestamp": "2023-06-14T11:02:21.429Z",
@ -51,7 +51,7 @@
"difficulty_level": "Medium",
"total_views": 219,
"comments": [],
"description": "# Enhance Safety and Appearance of Injection and Extrusion Machines\n\nLearn how to improve both the safety features and visual appeal of your injection and extrusion machines. This guide provides practical steps to ensure your equipment is both secure and visually appealing.",
"description": "Increase the safety and appearance of your injection and extrusion machine",
"fileLink": "",
"user": {
"_modified": "2024-01-10T02:09:55.992Z",
@ -209,9 +209,5 @@
"urls": []
}
},
"content": "# Enhance Safety and Appearance of Injection and Extrusion Machines\n\nLearn how to improve both the safety features and visual appeal of your injection and extrusion machines. This guide provides practical steps to ensure your equipment is both secure and visually appealing.\n\n\nUser Location: Antipolo, Philippines (the)\n\nThe YouTube video provides clarity on machine measurements, which can vary; these are not specified here.\n\nWe utilized 4-inch (10 cm) round stainless steel tubing. Square tubing is also suitable, provided it is long enough to encase the heater bands and insulation without direct contact.\n\nWe used 16 feet (5 meters) of muffler insulation.\n\nThe tubing was secured with M6 bolts, threading into the tubing. Alternative bolt sizes or machine screws are also acceptable.",
"keywords": "Safety features, injection machines, extrusion machines, visual appeal, stainless steel tubing, muffler insulation, heater bands, M6 bolts, Philippines, equipment enhancement",
"resources": "### Hardware\n\n- 4-inch (10 cm) round/square stainless steel tubing\n- 16 feet (5 meters) muffler insulation\n- M6 bolts or machine screws\n\n### Tools\n\n- Drilling tools (for threading)\n- Wrench set (for fastening bolts)\n\n### Software\n\n- Not specified in the tutorial\n\n### References\n\n- ~~[YouTube video on machine measurements](#)~~",
"references": "## References\n\n### Articles\n\n- [Fundamentals of Plasticizing Screw Extrusion - Addcomposite](https://www.addcomposites.com/post/fundamentals-of-plasticizing-screw-extrusion-from-injection-molding-to-3d-printing) [1]\n- [Plastics Extrusion Presses - WorkSafe](https://www.worksafe.govt.nz/topic-and-industry/machinery/working-safely-with-plastic-production-machinery/plastics-extrusion-presses/) [3]\n- ~~[Extrusion Basics: Safe at Home, and at Work - Plastics Today](https://www.plasticstoday.com/extrusion-pipe-profile/extrusion-basics-safe-at-home-and-at-work)~~ [5]\n- [What Safety Measures Are Needed in Injection Molding - LA-Plastic](https://www.la-plastic.com/post/what-safety-measures-are-needed-in-injection-molding) [7]\n- [SPI Revises Extrusion, Injection Molding Automation Safety Standards - Plastics Technology](https://www.ptonline.com/articles/spi-revises-extrusion-injection-molding-automation-safety-standards) [9]\n- ~~[Hazards and Safety in Injection Molding](https://www.geocities.ws/dfloyd2292/hazards.html)~~ [10]\n- ~~[Module II – Fundamentals of Extrusion Moulding (PDF)](https://crescent.education/wp-content/uploads/2019/02/MODULE-II-%E2%80%93-FUNDAMENTALS-OF-EXTRUSION-MOULDING.pdf)~~ [11]\n- [Essential Injection Molding Safety Standards - RJG, Inc.](https://rjginc.com/essential-injection-molding-safety-standards-and-practices/) [16]\n\n### Papers\n\n- [Open-Source 3-D Printable Autoinjector (PMC)](https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC10348544/) [12]\n- ~~[Open-Source Autoinjector Design (PLOS ONE)](https://journals.plos.org/plosone/article?id=10.1371%2Fjournal.pone.0288696)~~ [13]\n- [Open-Source Bioink and Food Melt Extrusion 3D Printer - JoVE](https://www.jove.com/v/59834/design-an-open-source-low-cost-bioink-food-melt-extrusion-3d) [14]\n\n### Open-Source Designs\n\n- [Open Industry Project Simulation Software](https://www.oldergeeks.com/downloads/search.php?limit=100\\&string=Power+Software+Ltd.\\&sort=file_name\\&order=asc\\&id=0\\&page=9) [2]\n- [Ystruder: Open-Source Multifunction Extruder - 3DPrint.com](https://3dprint.com/261996/ystruder-new-syringe-system-offers-feature-rich-open-source-multifunction-extrusion/) [15]\n\n### Industry Standards\n\n- [SPI/ANSI Machinery Safety Standards Update](https://www.ptonline.com/articles/spi-revises-extrusion-injection-molding-automation-safety-standards) [9]",
"brief": "Improve safety and aesthetics of injection and extrusion machines with practical steps. Enhance equipment security and visual appeal with our comprehensive guide."
"content": "Increase the safety and appearance of your injection and extrusion machine\n\n\nUser Location: Antipolo, Philippines (the)\n\nThe YouTube video shows it better. As everyone's machines are different measurements, this is not included here, but should be self explanatory in the video.\n\nWe used round stainless steel tubing at 4 inch size. However you can also use square tube. As long as your tube is long enough to fit over the heater bands and insulation without direct contact. \n\nFor insulation we use 5 meters of muffler insulation.\n\nWe secured the tubing with m6 bolts and tapped the tubing. You can use other size bolt or even machine screws."
}

73
howtos/host-an-educational-carnival-game-booth/README.md
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@ -1,23 +1,23 @@
---
title: Host an Educational Carnival Game Booth
slug: host-an-educational-carnival-game-booth
description: For many years, our organization has participated in local expos and fairs through a "Carnival Game Booth" concept instead of selling handcrafted items. Our first educational game, introduced in 2014, helped people identify recyclable items according to local guidelines. We utilized a ring-toss game and awarded crafts as prizes.
description: For many years, our charity organization has been taking part in local Expos, Events, and Faires using a "Carnival Game Booth" concept, rather than trying to SELL our handcrafted wares. Our first educational game was in 2014. It folks which items were recyclable, or not, in accordance with our local municipality's recycling system. We used a simple ring-toss and gave out our crafts as prizes!
tags: ["untagged"]
category: Guides
difficulty: Easy
time: < 1 day
keywords: Carnival Game Booth, Educational Games, Recyclable Items, Orlando Expos, Environmental Education, Plastics Recovery Process, Local Fairs, Community Engagement, Prize Trading, Event Booth Strategy
keywords:
location: Orlando, United States of America (the)
---
# Host an Educational Carnival Game Booth
![Host an Educational Carnival Game Booth](eco_carnival_1.jpg)
For many years, our organization has participated in local expos and fairs through a "Carnival Game Booth" concept instead of selling handcrafted items. Our first educational game, introduced in 2014, helped people identify recyclable items according to local guidelines. We utilized a ring-toss game and awarded crafts as prizes.
For many years, our charity organization has been taking part in local Expos, Events, and Faires using a "Carnival Game Booth" concept, rather than trying to SELL our handcrafted wares. Our first educational game was in 2014. It folks which items were recyclable, or not, in accordance with our local municipality's recycling system. We used a simple ring-toss and gave out our crafts as prizes!
User Location: Orlando, United States of America (the)
## Steps
### Step 1: Create a Fun Recycling Ed Game
Create engaging carnival games that incorporate educational elements about the plastics recovery process.
Think of one or more safe fun carnival games and adapt the items and themes in the game to teach a little something about the plastics rescue or recycling process.
![municipal recycling training game.jpg](./municipal_recycling_training_game.jpg)
@ -27,9 +27,7 @@ Create engaging carnival games that incorporate educational elements about the p
### Step 2: Request an Event Booth
Certainly, here is the text revised in Markdown format:
Rather than paying a high vendor booth fee and competing with other artisans at craft fairs or street markets, consider placing your Educational Ecology Game in the recreational, educational, environmental, or community section of a local expo, fair, or farmer's market. Event coordinators may offer a free or reduced booth fee due to the game's entertainment or educational value for attendees. Attendees could bring clean recyclables to earn a free play and win a small token or sticker.
Rather than pay a high "vendor" booth fee, and then try to compete with other artisans at selling your token-priced items at craft fairs or street markets; consider asking if your Educational Ecology Game can be in the recreational, educational, environmental, or community section of your local expo, fair, or farmer's market. Some event coordinators MIGHT offer you a free or reduced booth fee rate, simply because of the "entertainment" or "educational" value of your game for the event's visiting attendees. Attendees can be encouraged to bring their clean recyclables to the event, as an option for earning a "free play" and winning a tiny token-prize or sticker.
![Ring Tossing for a Prize.jpg](./Ring_Tossing_for_a_Prize.jpg)
@ -39,9 +37,12 @@ Rather than paying a high vendor booth fee and competing with other artisans at
### Step 3: Set Your Game-Play Price-Point
Donors or buyers who wish to participate beyond a small token or sticker may do so by paying or donating to play until they win. Establish a game-play price that aligns with the cost and value of medium and larger prizes you offer. Ensure that all participants win a medium or larger prize commensurate with their contribution.
Donors or Buyers who want to play for more than a tiny token or sticker can be given the option to pay/donate to play until they win.
Choose a game-play price-point that matches the cost and value of the medium and larger prizes you will provide. Make sure that EVERYONE who donates or pays to play your game wins a medium or larger-sized prize of appropriate value for what they paid or donated.
Set varying difficulty levels for a chance at premium prizes, or permit participants to trade multiple smaller prizes for one larger prize of equal cumulative value.
You can also set easier or harder targets; for the chance at winning premium prizes too. OR; you can allow folks to play again and then trade back in multiple smaller prizes - for one larger prize of the cumulative price/value - before they walk away from your game!
Everyone is a winner!
![winner.jpg](./winner.jpg)
@ -50,56 +51,4 @@ Set varying difficulty levels for a chance at premium prizes, or permit particip
![eco carnival team.jpg](./eco_carnival_team.jpg)
## Resources
Here's an organized extraction of required elements from the tutorial, tailored for an Orlando-based educational carnival booth:
### Tools
- Ring-toss game stands (adaptable for recyclable item identification)
- Recyclable sorting bins ([Orlando Recycling Guidelines](https://www.orlando.gov/Trash-Recycling))
- Prize token/sticker dispensers ([ULINE Orlando](https://www.uline.com))
- Event signage templates (~~[Canva](https://www.canva.com)~~)
- Donation tracking sheets ([Google Sheets](https://docs.google.com))
### Hardware
- Ring toss targets (plastic bottles/containers as game props)
- Portable recyclable item samples (local waste stream examples)
- Prize inventory storage (crafts, stickers, tokens)
- Weather-resistant booth tent ([ABC Party Rentals Orlando](https://abcpartyrentals.com))
- Folding tables with display racks (~~[Home Depot Orlando](https://www.homedepot.com/l/Orlando)~~)
### Software
- Recycling education apps ([iRecycle](https://www.earth911.com/irecycle/))
- Event registration system ([Eventbrite](https://www.eventbrite.com))
- Mobile POS for donations ([Square](https://squareup.com))
- Social media promo graphics tool ([Adobe Express](https://www.adobe.com/express))
- Volunteer scheduling platform ([SignUpGenius](https://www.signupgenius.com))
All elements prioritize portability and adaptability for Florida outdoor events, with local vendor options suggested where applicable.
## References
## References
### Articles
- [The School Recycling Games](https://recyclingnearyou.com.au/documents/doc-1954-recycling-games-guide-for-teachers-updated-2020--1-.pdf)
- [Plastic – reuse, recycle or rubbish game](https://www.sciencelearn.org.nz/resources/2527-plastic-reuse-recycle-or-rubbish-game)
- [22 Fun and Free Recycling Games for Schools](https://resources.pepsicorecyclerally.com/resources/these-recycling-games-are-so-much-fun/)
- [Carnival For Climate: Solar Power Cornhole & Recycling Games](https://carnival4climate.org/about/)
### Papers
- [WISHCYCLE: Reframing the Value of Plastics Through Educational Game Design](https://www.idsa.org/wp-content/uploads/WishCycle.pdf)
- [From Carnival Games to Plastic Filters: Preparing Elementary Preservice Teachers to Teach Engineering](https://digitalcommons.odu.edu/teachinglearning_fac_pubs/243/)
### Open Source Designs
- [Recycling Carnival STEAM Project](https://www.teacherspayteachers.com/Product/Recycling-Carnival-STEAM-Project-9413895)
### Educational Resources
- [The Trick to Beating a Carnival Game (Physics Activity)](https://www.sciencebuddies.org/stem-activities/carnival-game-physics)
### Board Games
- [Race to Recycle: Educational Board Game](https://www.coraltrianglecenter.org/2019/06/30/new-board-game-start-beating-plastic-pollution-by-playing-race-to-recycle/)
## References

14
howtos/host-an-educational-carnival-game-booth/config.json
View File

@ -5,7 +5,7 @@
"untagged"
],
"fileLink": "",
"description": "For many years, our organization has participated in local expos and fairs through a \"Carnival Game Booth\" concept instead of selling handcrafted items. Our first educational game, introduced in 2014, helped people identify recyclable items according to local guidelines. We utilized a ring-toss game and awarded crafts as prizes.",
"description": "For many years, our charity organization has been taking part in local Expos, Events, and Faires using a \"Carnival Game Booth\" concept, rather than trying to SELL our handcrafted wares. Our first educational game was in 2014. It folks which items were recyclable, or not, in accordance with our local municipality's recycling system. We used a simple ring-toss and gave out our crafts as prizes!",
"_deleted": false,
"_modified": "2023-10-10T04:48:30.462Z",
"_id": "ceQsYIYPXM2uWhiRRfxM",
@ -32,7 +32,7 @@
"_created": "2021-05-05T17:04:14.430Z",
"steps": [
{
"text": "Create engaging carnival games that incorporate educational elements about the plastics recovery process.",
"text": "Think of one or more safe fun carnival games and adapt the items and themes in the game to teach a little something about the plastics rescue or recycling process. ",
"images": [
{
"name": "municipal recycling training game.jpg",
@ -89,7 +89,7 @@
"alt": "ring a recyclable 2.jpg"
}
],
"text": "Certainly, here is the text revised in Markdown format:\n\nRather than paying a high vendor booth fee and competing with other artisans at craft fairs or street markets, consider placing your Educational Ecology Game in the recreational, educational, environmental, or community section of a local expo, fair, or farmer's market. Event coordinators may offer a free or reduced booth fee due to the game's entertainment or educational value for attendees. Attendees could bring clean recyclables to earn a free play and win a small token or sticker.",
"text": "Rather than pay a high \"vendor\" booth fee, and then try to compete with other artisans at selling your token-priced items at craft fairs or street markets; consider asking if your Educational Ecology Game can be in the recreational, educational, environmental, or community section of your local expo, fair, or farmer's market. Some event coordinators MIGHT offer you a free or reduced booth fee rate, simply because of the \"entertainment\" or \"educational\" value of your game for the event's visiting attendees. Attendees can be encouraged to bring their clean recyclables to the event, as an option for earning a \"free play\" and winning a tiny token-prize or sticker.",
"_animationKey": "unique2",
"title": "Request an Event Booth"
},
@ -121,7 +121,7 @@
"alt": "eco carnival team.jpg"
}
],
"text": "Donors or buyers who wish to participate beyond a small token or sticker may do so by paying or donating to play until they win. Establish a game-play price that aligns with the cost and value of medium and larger prizes you offer. Ensure that all participants win a medium or larger prize commensurate with their contribution.\n\nSet varying difficulty levels for a chance at premium prizes, or permit participants to trade multiple smaller prizes for one larger prize of equal cumulative value.",
"text": "Donors or Buyers who want to play for more than a tiny token or sticker can be given the option to pay/donate to play until they win. \n Choose a game-play price-point that matches the cost and value of the medium and larger prizes you will provide. Make sure that EVERYONE who donates or pays to play your game wins a medium or larger-sized prize of appropriate value for what they paid or donated. \n\nYou can also set easier or harder targets; for the chance at winning premium prizes too. OR; you can allow folks to play again and then trade back in multiple smaller prizes - for one larger prize of the cumulative price/value - before they walk away from your game!\n\nEveryone is a winner!",
"_animationKey": "unique3"
}
],
@ -310,9 +310,5 @@
"images": []
}
},
"content": "For many years, our organization has participated in local expos and fairs through a \"Carnival Game Booth\" concept instead of selling handcrafted items. Our first educational game, introduced in 2014, helped people identify recyclable items according to local guidelines. We utilized a ring-toss game and awarded crafts as prizes.\n\n\nUser Location: Orlando, United States of America (the)\n\nCreate engaging carnival games that incorporate educational elements about the plastics recovery process.\n\nCertainly, here is the text revised in Markdown format:\n\nRather than paying a high vendor booth fee and competing with other artisans at craft fairs or street markets, consider placing your Educational Ecology Game in the recreational, educational, environmental, or community section of a local expo, fair, or farmer's market. Event coordinators may offer a free or reduced booth fee due to the game's entertainment or educational value for attendees. Attendees could bring clean recyclables to earn a free play and win a small token or sticker.\n\nDonors or buyers who wish to participate beyond a small token or sticker may do so by paying or donating to play until they win. Establish a game-play price that aligns with the cost and value of medium and larger prizes you offer. Ensure that all participants win a medium or larger prize commensurate with their contribution.\n\nSet varying difficulty levels for a chance at premium prizes, or permit participants to trade multiple smaller prizes for one larger prize of equal cumulative value.",
"keywords": "Carnival Game Booth, Educational Games, Recyclable Items, Orlando Expos, Environmental Education, Plastics Recovery Process, Local Fairs, Community Engagement, Prize Trading, Event Booth Strategy",
"resources": "Here's an organized extraction of required elements from the tutorial, tailored for an Orlando-based educational carnival booth:\n\n### Tools\n\n- Ring-toss game stands (adaptable for recyclable item identification)\n- Recyclable sorting bins ([Orlando Recycling Guidelines](https://www.orlando.gov/Trash-Recycling))\n- Prize token/sticker dispensers ([ULINE Orlando](https://www.uline.com))\n- Event signage templates (~~[Canva](https://www.canva.com)~~)\n- Donation tracking sheets ([Google Sheets](https://docs.google.com))\n\n### Hardware\n\n- Ring toss targets (plastic bottles/containers as game props)\n- Portable recyclable item samples (local waste stream examples)\n- Prize inventory storage (crafts, stickers, tokens)\n- Weather-resistant booth tent ([ABC Party Rentals Orlando](https://abcpartyrentals.com))\n- Folding tables with display racks (~~[Home Depot Orlando](https://www.homedepot.com/l/Orlando)~~)\n\n### Software\n\n- Recycling education apps ([iRecycle](https://www.earth911.com/irecycle/))\n- Event registration system ([Eventbrite](https://www.eventbrite.com))\n- Mobile POS for donations ([Square](https://squareup.com))\n- Social media promo graphics tool ([Adobe Express](https://www.adobe.com/express))\n- Volunteer scheduling platform ([SignUpGenius](https://www.signupgenius.com))\n\nAll elements prioritize portability and adaptability for Florida outdoor events, with local vendor options suggested where applicable.",
"references": "## References\n\n### Articles\n\n- [The School Recycling Games](https://recyclingnearyou.com.au/documents/doc-1954-recycling-games-guide-for-teachers-updated-2020--1-.pdf)\n- [Plastic – reuse, recycle or rubbish game](https://www.sciencelearn.org.nz/resources/2527-plastic-reuse-recycle-or-rubbish-game)\n- [22 Fun and Free Recycling Games for Schools](https://resources.pepsicorecyclerally.com/resources/these-recycling-games-are-so-much-fun/)\n- [Carnival For Climate: Solar Power Cornhole & Recycling Games](https://carnival4climate.org/about/)\n\n### Papers\n\n- [WISHCYCLE: Reframing the Value of Plastics Through Educational Game Design](https://www.idsa.org/wp-content/uploads/WishCycle.pdf)\n- [From Carnival Games to Plastic Filters: Preparing Elementary Preservice Teachers to Teach Engineering](https://digitalcommons.odu.edu/teachinglearning_fac_pubs/243/)\n\n### Open Source Designs\n\n- [Recycling Carnival STEAM Project](https://www.teacherspayteachers.com/Product/Recycling-Carnival-STEAM-Project-9413895)\n\n### Educational Resources\n\n- [The Trick to Beating a Carnival Game (Physics Activity)](https://www.sciencebuddies.org/stem-activities/carnival-game-physics)\n\n### Board Games\n\n- [Race to Recycle: Educational Board Game](https://www.coraltrianglecenter.org/2019/06/30/new-board-game-start-beating-plastic-pollution-by-playing-race-to-recycle/)",
"brief": "Engage with eco-friendly carnival games at local expos and fairs, promoting recycling education through interactive fun. Join us for a sustainable experience!"
"content": "For many years, our charity organization has been taking part in local Expos, Events, and Faires using a \"Carnival Game Booth\" concept, rather than trying to SELL our handcrafted wares. Our first educational game was in 2014. It folks which items were recyclable, or not, in accordance with our local municipality's recycling system. We used a simple ring-toss and gave out our crafts as prizes!\n\n\nUser Location: Orlando, United States of America (the)\n\nThink of one or more safe fun carnival games and adapt the items and themes in the game to teach a little something about the plastics rescue or recycling process. \n\nRather than pay a high \"vendor\" booth fee, and then try to compete with other artisans at selling your token-priced items at craft fairs or street markets; consider asking if your Educational Ecology Game can be in the recreational, educational, environmental, or community section of your local expo, fair, or farmer's market. Some event coordinators MIGHT offer you a free or reduced booth fee rate, simply because of the \"entertainment\" or \"educational\" value of your game for the event's visiting attendees. Attendees can be encouraged to bring their clean recyclables to the event, as an option for earning a \"free play\" and winning a tiny token-prize or sticker.\n\nDonors or Buyers who want to play for more than a tiny token or sticker can be given the option to pay/donate to play until they win. \n Choose a game-play price-point that matches the cost and value of the medium and larger prizes you will provide. Make sure that EVERYONE who donates or pays to play your game wins a medium or larger-sized prize of appropriate value for what they paid or donated. \n\nYou can also set easier or harder targets; for the chance at winning premium prizes too. OR; you can allow folks to play again and then trade back in multiple smaller prizes - for one larger prize of the cumulative price/value - before they walk away from your game!\n\nEveryone is a winner!"
}

94
howtos/how-to-build-mini-press-/README.md
View File

@ -1,53 +1,43 @@
---
title: How to build mini press
slug: how-to-build-mini-press-
description: ## Tutorial: Building a Mini Press for Compression Moulding
To construct this straightforward machine, you will need the following equipment:
- Welding machine
- Access to a laser cutting machine
- Drilling machine
- Basic assembly skills
description: Tutorial how to build mini press for compression moulding.
For making this simple machine you need welding machine, access to laser cutting machine, drilling machine and basic assembly skills.
tags: ["starterkit","compression","sheetpress"]
category: Machines
difficulty: Medium
time: 1-2 weeks
keywords: compression moulding, mini press tutorial, laser cutting machine, welding machine guide, mold construction, DIY compression moulding, CNC cutting sheets, open source blueprints, CAD files download, basic assembly skills
keywords:
location: Liberec, Czechia
---
# How to build mini press
![How to build mini press ](thumbnail_2.png)
## Tutorial: Building a Mini Press for Compression Moulding
To construct this straightforward machine, you will need the following equipment:
- Welding machine
- Access to a laser cutting machine
- Drilling machine
- Basic assembly skills
Tutorial how to build mini press for compression moulding.
For making this simple machine you need welding machine, access to laser cutting machine, drilling machine and basic assembly skills.
User Location: Liberec, Czechia
## Steps
### Step 1: Video tutorial
### Instructions
All steps are mentioned in video tutorial.
Click the yellow download button above to go to the direct link to open source blueprints and CAD files.
All steps are detailed in the video tutorial. Click the yellow download button above to access the open source blueprints and CAD files.
### Step 2: What can you make with press?
This standard frame allows pressing sheets with an area of 14.6x14.6 inches (37x37 cm).
With this standard size frame it is possible to press sheets with area 37x37cm.
Maximum recommended mold height is 3.1 inches (80 mm).
Max. recommended mould height is 80mm
I have already produced:
- sheets 37x37cm, thickness 3, 5, 20mm
- coasters
- clock
- clipboard
- sheets which was latter used for CNC cutting - design of lamp, animal models.
I have produced:
- Sheets 14.6x14.6 inches (37x37 cm) with thicknesses of 0.1, 0.2, 0.8 inches (3, 5, 20 mm)
- Coasters
- Clocks
- Clipboards
- Sheets for CNC cutting for items like lamps and animal models.
![černé s oranžovými ručičkami.jpg](./cerne_s_oranzovymi_rucickami.jpg)
@ -60,9 +50,13 @@ I have produced:
### Step 3: Is it possible to buy it? Yes
Complete Machine:
Full machine:
Laser cutted parts for pressing plates:
Laser-cut parts for pressing plates:
![Snímek7.PNG](./Snimek7.PNG)
@ -75,14 +69,12 @@ Laser-cut parts for pressing plates:
### Step 4: More information
Certainly, here is the refined text:
---
Next upgrades and tips for compression molding can be found on YouTube or Instagram:
[linktr.ee/plastmakers](https://linktr.ee/plastmakers).
Next upgrades and tips for compression moulding you can find on Youtube, or Instagram:
<a class="text-orange-600 underline" href="https://linktr.ee/plastmakers" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">linktr.ee: linktr.ee/plastmakers</a>
I hope it can help you with plastic recycling.
Tom
![IMG_20210206_223315.jpg](./IMG_20210206_223315.jpg)
@ -91,34 +83,4 @@ Next upgrades and tips for compression molding can be found on YouTube or Instag
![deska s klipem 3.jpg](./deska_s_klipem_3.jpg)
## Resources
### Tools
- Welding machine
- Drilling machine
### Software
- CAD software (Open-source blueprints: [linktr.ee/plastmakers](https://linktr.ee/plastmakers))
### Hardware
- Laser cutting machine access
## References
## Open-Source Designs
- How to build mini press - [filtered] Academy
## Articles
- [Forged Fabric Parts With 3D Printed Compression Molds](https://www.instructables.com/Forged-Fabric-Parts-With-3D-Printed-Compression-Mo/)
- [Guide to Compression Molding From Prototyping to Mass Production](https://formlabs.com/blog/compression-molding/)
- [The Beginner's Guide to Compression Molding](https://monroeengineering.com/blog/the-beginners-guide-to-compression-molding/)
## YouTube Videos
- [Compression and Injection Compression Molding with Simulation](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=amH8BGj0MHg)
- [Compression Molding](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GqE93pbV_9I)
## Papers
- ~~[Compression Molding of Long Chopped Fiber Thermoplastics (Technical Paper)](https://www.toraytac.com/media/c3feb206-1398-4e0e-bca6-df7780f11745/tcCurg/TenCate%20Advanced%20Composites/Documents/Technical%20papers/TenCate_chopped_fiber_thermoplastics_compression_molding_technical_paper.pdf)~~
## References

16
howtos/how-to-build-mini-press-/config.json
View File

@ -26,7 +26,7 @@
"videoUrl": "https://youtu.be/AP7UJvYK6Bo",
"_animationKey": "unique1",
"title": "Video tutorial ",
"text": "### Instructions\n\nAll steps are detailed in the video tutorial. Click the yellow download button above to access the open source blueprints and CAD files.",
"text": "All steps are mentioned in video tutorial. \nClick the yellow download button above to go to the direct link to open source blueprints and CAD files.\n",
"images": []
},
{
@ -70,7 +70,7 @@
}
],
"title": "What can you make with press?",
"text": "This standard frame allows pressing sheets with an area of 14.6x14.6 inches (37x37 cm).\n\nMaximum recommended mold height is 3.1 inches (80 mm).\n\nI have produced:\n\n- Sheets 14.6x14.6 inches (37x37 cm) with thicknesses of 0.1, 0.2, 0.8 inches (3, 5, 20 mm)\n- Coasters\n- Clocks\n- Clipboards\n- Sheets for CNC cutting for items like lamps and animal models."
"text": "With this standard size frame it is possible to press sheets with area 37x37cm. \n\nMax. recommended mould height is 80mm\n\nI have already produced:\n\n- sheets 37x37cm, thickness 3, 5, 20mm \n- coasters\n- clock\n- clipboard\n- sheets which was latter used for CNC cutting - design of lamp, animal models. \n\n"
},
{
"images": [
@ -113,7 +113,7 @@
],
"_animationKey": "unique3",
"title": "Is it possible to buy it? Yes",
"text": "Complete Machine:\n\nLaser-cut parts for pressing plates:"
"text": "Full machine: \n\n\n\nLaser cutted parts for pressing plates: \n\n"
},
{
"_animationKey": "unique16s5vb",
@ -144,7 +144,7 @@
"alt": "deska s klipem 3.jpg"
}
],
"text": "Certainly, here is the refined text:\n\n---\n\nNext upgrades and tips for compression molding can be found on YouTube or Instagram:\n[linktr.ee/plastmakers](https://linktr.ee/plastmakers).\n\n"
"text": "Next upgrades and tips for compression moulding you can find on Youtube, or Instagram:\n<a class=\"text-orange-600 underline\" href=\"https://linktr.ee/plastmakers\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">linktr.ee: linktr.ee/plastmakers</a>\n\nI hope it can help you with plastic recycling. \n\nTom"
}
],
"total_views": 611,
@ -168,7 +168,7 @@
"files": [],
"moderation": "accepted",
"fileLink": "https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1mnhn5dmxhTUJN2FP2GhcQiJN7mrv-iHk?usp=sharing",
"description": "## Tutorial: Building a Mini Press for Compression Moulding\n\nTo construct this straightforward machine, you will need the following equipment:\n\n- Welding machine\n- Access to a laser cutting machine\n- Drilling machine\n- Basic assembly skills",
"description": "Tutorial how to build mini press for compression moulding.\nFor making this simple machine you need welding machine, access to laser cutting machine, drilling machine and basic assembly skills. ",
"tags": [
"starterkit",
"compression",
@ -339,9 +339,5 @@
"images": []
}
},
"content": "## Tutorial: Building a Mini Press for Compression Moulding\n\nTo construct this straightforward machine, you will need the following equipment:\n\n- Welding machine\n- Access to a laser cutting machine\n- Drilling machine\n- Basic assembly skills\n\n\nUser Location: Liberec, Czechia\n\n### Instructions\n\nAll steps are detailed in the video tutorial. Click the yellow download button above to access the open source blueprints and CAD files.\n\nThis standard frame allows pressing sheets with an area of 14.6x14.6 inches (37x37 cm).\n\nMaximum recommended mold height is 3.1 inches (80 mm).\n\nI have produced:\n\n- Sheets 14.6x14.6 inches (37x37 cm) with thicknesses of 0.1, 0.2, 0.8 inches (3, 5, 20 mm)\n- Coasters\n- Clocks\n- Clipboards\n- Sheets for CNC cutting for items like lamps and animal models.\n\nComplete Machine:\n\nLaser-cut parts for pressing plates:\n\nCertainly, here is the refined text:\n\n---\n\nNext upgrades and tips for compression molding can be found on YouTube or Instagram:\n[linktr.ee/plastmakers](https://linktr.ee/plastmakers).\n\n",
"keywords": "compression moulding, mini press tutorial, laser cutting machine, welding machine guide, mold construction, DIY compression moulding, CNC cutting sheets, open source blueprints, CAD files download, basic assembly skills",
"resources": "### Tools\n\n- Welding machine\n- Drilling machine\n\n### Software\n\n- CAD software (Open-source blueprints: [linktr.ee/plastmakers](https://linktr.ee/plastmakers))\n\n### Hardware\n\n- Laser cutting machine access",
"references": "## Open-Source Designs\n\n- How to build mini press - [filtered] Academy\n\n## Articles\n\n- [Forged Fabric Parts With 3D Printed Compression Molds](https://www.instructables.com/Forged-Fabric-Parts-With-3D-Printed-Compression-Mo/)\n- [Guide to Compression Molding From Prototyping to Mass Production](https://formlabs.com/blog/compression-molding/)\n- [The Beginner's Guide to Compression Molding](https://monroeengineering.com/blog/the-beginners-guide-to-compression-molding/)\n\n## YouTube Videos\n\n- [Compression and Injection Compression Molding with Simulation](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=amH8BGj0MHg)\n- [Compression Molding](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GqE93pbV_9I)\n\n## Papers\n\n- ~~[Compression Molding of Long Chopped Fiber Thermoplastics (Technical Paper)](https://www.toraytac.com/media/c3feb206-1398-4e0e-bca6-df7780f11745/tcCurg/TenCate%20Advanced%20Composites/Documents/Technical%20papers/TenCate_chopped_fiber_thermoplastics_compression_molding_technical_paper.pdf)~~",
"brief": "Learn to build a mini press for compression moulding with a video tutorial, free blueprints, and CAD files. Ideal for creating sheets, coasters, clocks, and more."
"content": "Tutorial how to build mini press for compression moulding.\nFor making this simple machine you need welding machine, access to laser cutting machine, drilling machine and basic assembly skills. \n\n\nUser Location: Liberec, Czechia\n\nAll steps are mentioned in video tutorial. \nClick the yellow download button above to go to the direct link to open source blueprints and CAD files.\n\n\nWith this standard size frame it is possible to press sheets with area 37x37cm. \n\nMax. recommended mould height is 80mm\n\nI have already produced:\n\n- sheets 37x37cm, thickness 3, 5, 20mm \n- coasters\n- clock\n- clipboard\n- sheets which was latter used for CNC cutting - design of lamp, animal models. \n\n\n\nFull machine: \n\n\n\nLaser cutted parts for pressing plates: \n\n\n\nNext upgrades and tips for compression moulding you can find on Youtube, or Instagram:\n<a class=\"text-orange-600 underline\" href=\"https://linktr.ee/plastmakers\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">linktr.ee: linktr.ee/plastmakers</a>\n\nI hope it can help you with plastic recycling. \n\nTom"
}

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